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the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: ashtond6 on July 16, 2017, 10:25:20 pm

Title: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: ashtond6 on July 16, 2017, 10:25:20 pm
My list is mostly peakcentic.
On ukc people see to just recommend The File and Bond Street...


Fingers
Fingerlicker E4 11c
Coventry Street E4 11d
London Wall E5 12a
Bob Hope E4 11c?
Calamity Crack E4
Get Rich Quick (Dukes) E6
Great Tribulation E6 7c+ 13a
Our Forte E5
The Soft Parade (hallmoor) E6
Kink E6 7b+
High Street E4
Wellington Crack E4
Milky Way E6
Hunter House Road Toad E5
Pretty Girls Make Graves E6
Goosey goosey gander E5
Reticent Mass Murder E5
Atomic Hot Rod E5
Behemoth E5


Hands
Harvest E4
Zippatrocity 7B+ 8a


Offwidth
Gigglin' E6
Fear of Infection E4
Ramshaw Crack E4
Gobblers Roof E7
Goliath E5

Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: TobyD on July 17, 2017, 12:13:36 am

Fingerlicker E4 11c
Coventry Street E4 11d
London Wall E5 12a
Bob Hope E4 11c?



IIRC finger licker would be standard 5.10+, along with most UK offwidths. Having said that, it's a good list. Hogarth and the slate have some good cracks.
A real prize would be torture at Vixen Tor. Always wanted to do this, but you do risk being shot by the land owner.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: guypercival on July 17, 2017, 10:26:33 am
Really esoteric
The mean machine at Near Hearkening Rock goes at E7 I think Ally Smith may be the only person to have attempted it.
Starts with fingers then hands then offwidth
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Ally Smith on July 17, 2017, 11:07:28 am
Yeah - I have it on good authority that the claimed first ascent was a Simpson-esque fabrication  :worms:

Couple of moves on edges to access some sharp finger locks, then gradually widening to baggy hands at the lip; all at 70degrees overhanging. Maybe the Wideboyz should go look?

Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: user deactivated on July 17, 2017, 11:35:46 am
Kink, hunter house road road, and reticent mass murderer aren't really crack climbs. Maybe have a jam or two. Can't think of one on hunter house. And are e5 and e4's respectively. Kink being some of the hardest moves on an e5 up there, but probably French 7b on crimps and layaways, tough and safe.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: guypercival on July 17, 2017, 11:40:50 am
You need to get down here and finish it off!

Other cracks down south are Stone Wings at Witches point E5 6a
About 7a+ and mainly hands
And The Clart Mountain Project at 7b+ at Crymlyn which takes a massive ceiling on hands some of which are baggy.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 17, 2017, 11:54:27 am
Beat Surrender, Pembroke - 5.12 thin fingers laybacking
The Pit and the Pendulum, Nesscliffe - 5.11++ 45m  OW, Hands, fists
Nebuliser, Grinshill 5.12a? Perfect overhanging splitter fingers to hands
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Neil F on July 17, 2017, 12:30:19 pm
11   ;)

 ...though I've got a mental block on where Calamity Crack is.  Chew Valley perhaps?  Don't think I've done it tho' (nor any in the hands or offwidth category, not surprisingly!).
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Nigel on July 17, 2017, 12:35:42 pm
Running Hill Pits innit?
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: duncan on July 17, 2017, 12:41:44 pm

Fingerlicker E4 11c
Coventry Street E4 11d
London Wall E5 12a
Bob Hope E4 11c?



IIRC finger licker would be standard 5.10+, along with most UK offwidths. Having said that, it's a good list. Hogarth and the slate have some good cracks.
A real prize would be torture at Vixen Tor. Always wanted to do this, but you do risk being shot by the land owner.


Fingerlicker at 11c may derive from a comment I made a long time ago on forum far, far away. I remember thinking 'typical .11c' when I did it and was between trips to The Valley. Perhaps I was having an off-day, it's got to be easier than Butterballs.

The Kraken, TomPR's roofcrack at Hartland. Hands, fingers, mono. V13.

Small child for scale:

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/27118536770_55e7494d82_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HjnAbN)
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Will Hunt on July 17, 2017, 12:47:48 pm
Is Welcome to the Cruel World a crack? E9 though, so not really for this list anyway.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Nutty on July 17, 2017, 12:53:48 pm
Requiem? E8 6b
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: reeve on July 17, 2017, 01:36:59 pm
Good list!

Only two omissions that come to mind are 30 seconds over winterland, Widdop (bouldery 5.11d? finger jam into hands in a 50 deg roof) and Relax and Swing, Swanage (Seperate Reality style 6m roof hand crack, 5.11d?). Grades are wildly unreliable guestimates.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Wood FT on July 17, 2017, 02:20:16 pm
Horizontal places - E8, Trevellan Pembroke
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Teaboy on July 17, 2017, 02:39:25 pm
A couple is like to know a bit more about if anyone's done them:
Cobalt Dream E4 Roof, don't know anyone who's done it.
Lyng Dynasty, Beinn Eigh (sp?) E5 only know one person who's done this, it's meant to be brilliant
Atomic Hotrod E5 - Cromlech, fingers then hands
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Tommy on July 17, 2017, 02:52:51 pm
Fingerlicker E4 11c - really nice.
Coventry Street E4 11d - only 1 or 2 hard moves, mostly E1
London Wall E5 12a - classic pocket pulling
Bob Hope E4 11c? - nice, but pretty short and not as pure as the guide suggests
Calamity Crack E4 - really good.
Get Rich Quick (Dukes) E6 - not that cracky. More like E5
Great Tribulation E6 7c+ 13a - ace, but not that cracky in some ways.
Our Forte E5 - pumpy bugger. Looks like HVS, which sets you up for a good sandbag
The Soft Parade (hallmoor) E6 - not that cracky in reality. Cruxy.
Kink E6 7b+
High Street E4 - nice
Wellington Crack E4 - just a good as London Wall
Milky Way E6 - pumpy. One of the best for real crack skills IMO
Hunter House Road Toad E5 - not a crack. Just a few layback moves.
Pretty Girls Make Graves E6 - not very cracky.
Goosey goosey gander E5 - layback quite a bit
Reticent Mass Murder E5 - short and bouldery but good
Atomic Hot Rod E5 - another good punisher. Hard if you don't use tech
Behemoth E5


Hands
Harvest E4 - ace
Zippatrocity 7B+ 8a. Boulder, good for practising efficiency on that one.


Offwidth
Gigglin' E6 - Prob should come down to E5 really. Very similar difficulty to Goliath
Fear of Infection E4 - Nice and wide. Good for tech
Ramshaw Crack E4 - Too bouldery to learn that much. Better to go and do laps on Melvin Bragg?
Gobblers Roof E7 - wet and disgusting.
Goliath E5 - better if you properly offwidth it. E6 if LH side in and no face holds. Hard E5 if RH in and no face holds. 


I've got a big list at home somewhere, I'll put some down when I find it! :-)

Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Tommy on July 17, 2017, 02:55:36 pm

Cobalt Dream E4 Roof, don't know anyone who's done it.


It's all about the roof section. Tricky one to onsight as I think it required a bit of a spin in direction. Beautiful location and great rock.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: ashtond6 on July 17, 2017, 04:25:54 pm

I've got a big list at home somewhere, I'll put some down when I find it! :-)

Thanks Tom! Would be appreciated,

OK so updated list:

Fingers
Fingerlicker E4 11b 
Coventry Street E4 11d
London Wall E5 12a
Bob Hope E4 11c
Calamity Crack E4
High Street E4
Wellington Crack E4
Milky Way E6 pumpy
Goosey goosey gander E5
Reticent Mass Murder E5 short and bouldery
Atomic Hot Rod E5
Behemoth E5
Beat Surrender E5 5.12


Hands
Harvest E4
Zippatrocity 7B+ 8a. Boulder
Our Forte E5 - pumpy hands
Stone Wings E5 7a+
Pit & The Pendulum E6 5.11d
Horizontal Places E8
Cobalt Dream E5


Offwidth
Gigglin' E6
Fear of Infection E4
Ramshaw Crack E4
Melvin Bragg 7B
Goliath E5 - E6 if LH side in and no face holds. Hard E5 if RH in and no face holds. 


I've removed the non crack ones & not included Requiem as aren't all the cruxes face climbing?

There are less than I thought  :(

Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: T_B on July 17, 2017, 04:45:37 pm


There are less than I thought  :(

That's cos you've hardly got any on there  ;)
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: user deactivated on July 17, 2017, 05:58:22 pm
Have you done the stuff in the e1-e3 range? That's where a lot of the quality is at. E.g. Undercut crack, requiem, crack of gloom, saville street, etc etc. A lot of em are harder and more sustained than the bouldery stuff. Sorcerous Digitalis might fit your bill.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: user deactivated on July 17, 2017, 05:59:30 pm
Also harvest is e3 isn't it?
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: SamT on July 17, 2017, 06:22:17 pm
Have you done the stuff in the e1-e3 range? That's where a lot of the quality is at. E.g. Undercut crack, requiem, crack of gloom, saville street, etc etc. A lot of em are harder and more sustained than the bouldery stuff. Sorcerous Digitalis might fit your bill.

Indeed - Mangler at Stanage, Sentinal at Chatsworth?
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Neil F on July 17, 2017, 06:43:08 pm
Running Hill Pits innit?

Ah yes, of course.

That makes the score 11, and failed on one...   
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: ashtond6 on July 17, 2017, 07:02:54 pm
Have you done the stuff in the e1-e3 range? That's where a lot of the quality is at. E.g. Undercut crack, requiem, crack of gloom, saville street, etc etc. A lot of em are harder and more sustained than the bouldery stuff. Sorcerous Digitalis might fit your bill.

Yeah done most E1-3, although not Sentinel and Saville! Will do sentinel soon but Saville has never appealed!

Sorcerous is a good idea
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Will Hunt on July 17, 2017, 08:19:54 pm
Moughton Mauler at Moughton Nab. E4 roof crack on lime.
Quad Crack at Attermire. Really good looking E4 splitter.
Eavestone Crack and Genesis at Eavestone.

Sacrificial Crack (E4) on the Napes. The Vikings is only E3 but is worth putting on just for the photo in the old guide of the bloke doing a one arm hang off a fist jam.
Is the bulk of Incantations in a crack?
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: webbo on July 17, 2017, 08:30:34 pm
Quad crack E4  :o that's some grade creep Austin HVS.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: webbo on July 17, 2017, 08:36:14 pm
Constable overhang at Wilton.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Will Hunt on July 17, 2017, 09:27:17 pm
Quad crack E4  :o that's some grade creep Austin HVS.

It's on UKC at E3 but I'm sure it was E4 in the old definitive.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 18, 2017, 09:41:04 am
There are less than I thought  :(

That's cos you've hardly got any on there  ;)


And totally ignored mine and others' contributions.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: haydn jones on July 18, 2017, 10:21:21 am
Just did mean streak at stennis that's an ace e5 fingers.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Tommy on July 18, 2017, 11:14:11 am
Beat Surrender, Pembroke - 5.12 thin fingers laybacking
The Pit and the Pendulum, Nesscliffe - 5.11++ 45m  OW, Hands, fists
Nebuliser, Grinshill 5.12a? Perfect overhanging splitter fingers to hands

Nebuliser - I can't find this... sounds excellent.
TP&P - good call. It's like fighting up one of those sandy Czech things. Not hard, but quite emotional.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: ashtond6 on July 18, 2017, 11:58:34 am
There are less than I thought  :(

That's cos you've hardly got any on there  ;)


And totally ignored mine and others' contributions.

Pretty sure I included all yours except the top rope. I haven't finished updating it yet.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Will Hunt on July 18, 2017, 12:02:37 pm
Quark at Caley.


To suggest there aren't many crack in the UK at these grades is mental!
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: ashtond6 on July 18, 2017, 01:01:06 pm
Quark at Caley.


To suggest there aren't many crack in the UK at these grades is mental!

Thanks,  will add

I mean it depends on your definition. We've named less than 50, lots of them not full cracks out of how many routes in the UK?!
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: andyh on July 18, 2017, 01:46:54 pm
Hobson Moor probably has a few but I can't remember which route is which...
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Steve R on July 18, 2017, 03:10:32 pm
Three off the top of my head on North York Moors sandstone (good for when it's hot):

Stratagem, E5 6b at Raven's scar.  Best/easiest sequence involves a few consecutive finger jam moves - not bad for a uk crack?

Eyebrow, E6 6b at Stoupe Brow.  Belayed a freind on FA of this and still unrepeated I think.  Though it follows a crack, can't remember exactly how much crack technique is involved but I do remember it's pretty hard.

Psychosis, E4 6a at Smuggler's Terrace.  Haven't been on this one but looks very good and very much a finger crack:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230824#photos
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Will Hunt on July 18, 2017, 03:15:20 pm
Quark at Caley.


To suggest there aren't many crack in the UK at these grades is mental!

Thanks,  will add

I mean it depends on your definition. We've named less than 50, lots of them not full cracks out of how many routes in the UK?!

These are just the ones that have sprung to people's minds so far - i.e. the classics. In the most obvious locations. And it's not even complete!

Nobody's mentioned the slate yet. What about The Mau Mau (E4)? Does it count if you tend to layback it? I bet there's loads more.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: petejh on July 18, 2017, 04:58:50 pm
Gideon Quarry:
Liquid Armbar E4
Mancer Direct E3
Cracking Up E2

Lost World:
Black Gates E1
Dinowrwig Unconquerable E3
Young Man Afraid of Horses E5
Josy Puss E5

Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: dunnyg on July 18, 2017, 05:09:24 pm
Some that haven't been mentioned yet:

De Produndis - flaystones E5 - Horizontal hand crack to wide (I believe, not been there yet!)
True grit - brimham - E4 - fingers(?)
Iron fist - Limekilns - E5 - Cant remember what size but my notes mention finger locks and fist jams on the crux (for me). I never ticked it!
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: ashtond6 on July 18, 2017, 05:31:35 pm

Fingers
Fingerlicker E4 11b 
Coventry Street E4 11d
London Wall E5 12a
Bob Hope E4 11c
Calamity Crack E4
High Street E4
Wellington Crack E4
Milky Way E6 pumpy
Goosey goosey gander E5
Reticent Mass Murder E5 short and bouldery
Atomic Hot Rod E5
Behemoth E5
Beat Surrender E5 5.12
True Grit E4
Quark E4
Psychosis E4
Stratagem E5
Gable End E4
Mean Streak E5
Constable Overhang E5


Hands
Harvest E4
Zippatrocity 7B+ 8a. Boulder
Our Forte E5 - pumpy hands
Stone Wings E5 7a+
Pit & The Pendulum E6 5.11d
Horizontal Places E8
Cobalt Dream E5
Josy Puss E5
Iron Fist E5
Manatese E4
The Mau Mau E4
Moughton Mauler E4
Genesis E5
Eavestone Crack E4
30 seconds over winterland E5
Relax & Swing E5
Stone Wings E5


Offwidth
Gigglin' E6
Fear of Infection E4
Ramshaw Crack E4
Melvin Bragg 7B
Goliath E5 - E6 if LH side in and no face holds. Hard E5 if RH in and no face holds. 
De Profundis - E5
Liquid Armbar E4
Sacrificial Crack E4


Few more added in, some great ideas! Can't believe I missed the slate.
Thanks all!
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 18, 2017, 05:41:10 pm

Nebuliser - I can't find this... sounds excellent.
TP&P - good call. It's like fighting up one of those sandy Czech things. Not hard, but quite emotional.

Nebuliser might be a bit easy for you Tom, but it's a real treat to stumble across. One of the best in the county. I can't think of anything comparable on grit.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: reeve on July 18, 2017, 08:55:36 pm
Nobody's mentioned the slate yet. What about The Mau Mau (E4)? Does it count if you tend to layback it? I bet there's loads more.

To my mind the Mau Mau is more like laybacking a flake than climbing a crack, but you have reminded me of The Wow Wow, which is fairly pure slate crack climbing, tips to fingers to hands. Tough E4, so maybe athletic 5.11?
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: dave on July 18, 2017, 09:05:50 pm
Does Gin Palace count as a crack?
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: webbo on July 18, 2017, 09:06:28 pm
Moughton Mauler at Moughton Nab. E4 roof crack on lime.
Quad Crack at Attermire. Really good looking E4 splitter.
Eavestone Crack and Genesis at Eavestone.

Sacrificial Crack (E4) on the Napes. The Vikings is only E3 but is worth putting on just for the photo in the old guide of the bloke doing a one arm hang off a fist jam.
Is the bulk of Incantations in a crack?
Genesis is not really crack climbing, more pulling on slopers and laybacking.
What does Neb direct at Tremadoc get these days, thin hands over a roof.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Bonjoy on July 19, 2017, 12:44:21 pm

Our Forte E5 - pumpy bugger. Looks like HVS, which sets you up for a good sandbag

I'll just translate that for folk who didn't see how hard you had to try on this route.... the week before you set of to America to climbing the worlds hardest crack!
It's hard E6. A good line but exceedingly sandy. Maybe E5 if you spent a day or two cleaning the sand off.   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: tc on July 19, 2017, 12:51:39 pm
Requiem at Dumbarton?
Giggling Crack at Brimham?
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: andy popp on July 19, 2017, 03:50:53 pm
Crumpet Crack at Helsby is only E3 but provides a very good if short-lived tussle.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Probes on July 19, 2017, 07:40:31 pm
Lancashirecentric..

Run wild, run free E6 6b (brilliant ballsy 7c climbing)
Ego trip E5 6b
KP E6 6b (better than London Wall)
Gigantic E8 6c (although only requires one hand lock, the rest is laybacked)
Lean mean fighting machine E4 (nails fingertip locks, I don't know of anyone whose os'd it)
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: ashtond6 on July 19, 2017, 08:17:28 pm
Lancashirecentric..

KP E6 6b (better than London Wall)

Thanks! You've got me interested in Lancs! Plus, that is quite the claim...

Any pics of these?
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: davehinton on July 19, 2017, 08:22:05 pm
Yorick's Crack (Running Hill Pits)  E5 6c? (Small fingers). But could be a lot, lot harder? Especially as it took DH multiple visits before success.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: kingholmesy on July 19, 2017, 11:41:51 pm
Superjam, E5 offwidth at Sennen should be on the list.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: SA Chris on July 24, 2017, 05:32:17 pm
Horizontal places - E8, Trevellan Pembroke

Pleasures shurely?

If you fancy a NW Scotland trip, someone has kindly listed for you. I've not done any of them, so can't vouch in any way

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1158

Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Tommy on July 24, 2017, 06:51:53 pm
Some harder ones:

Forever Laughing (7c+ I think? Or was it 8a?): Big roof crack in Blackers Hole that arguably me, Hickish and Long messed up by bolting. Would be an impressive flash/OS.

One Infinity (8A): Roof crack boulder, Bathford. Think Tom Newbury repeated and Bransby might have got close/did it??

Dina Crack (8b+/E9). Minger limestone roof crack in Dinas, S Wales.

Street Fighting Years (E7). Bouldery limestone roof crack in Blackers Hole

Swarzchild Radius roof (E8) Blackers Hole. The 7c+ sport route climbed into the cool roof crack above. Approx 8a+?

Others I can think of:

That offwidth that HoseyB did an obscure Slate quarry – very tasty E4. Really good! Just as interesting as Fear of Infection.

Cream (E4): Nice Tremadog crack. Found it a bit harder than Fingerlicker.

Chemin de Fer (E5): Dumbarton sandbag (apparently!)
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Tommy on July 24, 2017, 06:52:47 pm
Superjam, E5 offwidth at Sennen should be on the list.

Pete said this was nails. Took him quite a few goes and thought it harder than Rays by a fair bit.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: andyh on July 24, 2017, 06:54:10 pm
Horizontal places - E8, Trevellan Pembroke

Pleasures shurely?

Not to be confused with Horizontal Places that was misnamed as Horizontal Pleasures in the BMC Froggatt guide (and has the description wrong on UKC) - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10902

Biggest roof and most out there position on Froggatt. Not a crack but does have a half-body jam/wedge - go climb it ;)
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Fiend on July 26, 2017, 05:59:31 pm
Further to that UKC NW Scotland list....

Quote
31      Whispering Crack   E3 5c ***   7   55m         Rubha Hunish
+ amazing, 5 grit HVS 5bs stacked on top of each other.
32      Staffin Classic (a.k.a. Kilt Classic)   E2 5b ***   12   40m         Staffin Slips
33      Hand Jive   E2 5c **   3   17m         Staffin Slips
34      Experimental Learning   E3 6a ***   -   45m         Staffin Slips
35      Licking Nettles   E3 5c ***   -   30m         Staffin Slips
+ all good cracks here, same with Kilt obviously
52      American Vampire   E4 6a ***   -   25m         Neist
~ good but the jamming bit is an easier bit
66      Pump up the Jam   f6C ***   2   8m         An Sguman
- an easy pure jamming romp of the upmost loveliness
69      Occum's Razor   E4 6a ***   6   25m         Sarclet
- hardly any jamming
70      Crypt Robber   E2 5c ***   4   35m         Sarclet
+ a big chimney thing, looks fun
71      Walking on Water   E2 5c ***   8   35m         Sarclet
- not much crucial jamming
74      Monkey Man   E3 5c ***   43   ?         Sheigra Sea Cliffs
- the only proper jams are the resting ones after all the hard climbing!
77      Tank Top   E6 6b ***   -   45m   • 2      Creag Shomhairle
+ if this is the line I'm thinking of, it looks amazing, not sure how pure jammy tho
81      Moronic Inferno   E2 5b **   65   ?         Reiff - Rubha...
- not very jammy
84      The Thistle   E4 6a **   6   ?         Reiff - An Stiuir
~ doesn't look very jammy
86      Elastic Collision   E3 5c ***   111   ?         Reiff - An Stiuir
87      Seal Song   E3 5c ***   72   ?         Reiff - An Stiuir
- cruxes of these two are not jamming
90      Strangeways   E4 6b **   4   ?         Reiff - Roinn...
- only jamming is on the HVS bit of the traverse in
91      Strongbow   E2 5c ***   32   ?         Reiff - Stone Pig...
~ more of a corner
92      Burning Desire   E5 6b ***   8   ?         Ardmair Crags
93      Unleash The Beast   E4 6a ***   23   25m         Ardmair Crags
94      Primitive Dance   E2 5c **   29   ?         Ardmair Crags
+ all excellent (I'm guessing about BD), there is far more here too
109      Kneel and Pray   E1 5b *   11   8m         Mungasdale
- mostly using jugs to avoid the crack

There might be more that I forgot...
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: user deactivated on July 26, 2017, 07:12:58 pm
Horizontal places - E8, Trevellan Pembroke

Pleasures shurely?

Not to be confused with Horizontal Places that was misnamed as Horizontal Pleasures in the BMC Froggatt guide (and has the description wrong on UKC) - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10902

Biggest roof and most out there position on Froggatt. Not a crack but does have a half-body jam/wedge - go climb it ;)


Wow, can't believe I've never seen this one before. A definite addition to the list to do this autumn!
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Fultonius on July 26, 2017, 08:47:14 pm
Requiem? E8 6b

As great a route as it is, the crack is less than half the route, so is it really a crack climb?  What's the criteria here?

(just noticed this has been covered already...)

Limekilns: Iron Fist, yes, fingers to start, baggy fist crux.
Cambusbarron: Formica Crack, Hardest E3 in Central Belt... (also a bit shit, so not really a recommnedation.) hands/thin hands flared weirdness with kung-fu footwork...squuezes into E4.
Chemin de Fer E5, Dumby, mais, comme requiem les cruxes sont pas fissure
Cold Rage E4, Pass of Ballater. Odd one, it follows a wide chicken-wing offwidth, to thin hands/fingers but isn't totally a crack climb...but crack skills definitely help
Wide Country, E5, Cobbler
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: ashtond6 on May 30, 2018, 04:56:46 pm
Right, updated list.
Liebacking routes generally removed

Fingers
Fingerlicker, Tremadog E4
Coventry Street Millstone E4
London Wall, Millstone E5 12a
Bob Hope, Dovestones E4
Calamity Crack, Running Hill Pits E4
High Street, Lawrencefield E4
Wellington Crack, Ilkley E4
Milky Way, Ilkley E6
Reticent Mass Murder, Cratcliffe E5
Atomic Hot Rod, Cromlech E5
Behemoth, Central Buttress WCJ E5
True Grit Brimham E4
Supercrack, Lorry Park 7a/11d
Thunder Road, Lorry Park 6c+/11c
Cream Tremadog E4
Quark E4
Psychosis, Smugglers E4
Stratagem, Ravens Scar E5
Gable End E4
Mean Streak Stennis E5
Constable Overhang, Wilton E5
K.P. Wilton E6
The Mean Machine,Near Hearkaning Rock E7? 70 degrees, potentially not done
Yorick's Crack, Running Hill E5 tips

Hands
Harvest, Stanage E4
Zippatrocity, Stanage 7B+ 8a
Our Forte, Stanton E6
Stone Wings E5 7a+
Pit & The Pendulum, Nesscliffe E6 5.11d
Horizontal Places, Pembroke E8
Cobalt Dream E5
Iron Fist, Limekilns E5
Ultra Violence, Gun Buttress E4
Moughton Mauler E4
Genesis E5
Eavestone Crack E4
All Elements, Sally in the Woods 8A
Nebuliser Grinshill 5.12a?
The Clart Mountain Project 7b+ Crymlyn
The Wow Wow, Slate E4
Street Fighting Years Blackers Hole E7
30 seconds over winterland, Widdop E5
Relax and Swing, Swanage E5 (Seperate Reality style 6m roof hand crack)
String Theory, Rowsley Wood 7A roof
Savage Me Softly, Stanage 7A?

Offwidth
Gigglin' Brimham E6
Fear of Infection E4
Rays Roof E7
Ramshaw Crack Ramshaw E4
Melvin Bragg Ramshaw 7B
Goliath Burbage E5 - E6 if LH side in and no face holds. Hard E5 if RH in and no face holds. 
De Profundis Flaystones  - E5
Liquid Armbar E4
Sacrificial Crack E4
Superjam Sennen E5
Gin Palace 7c+


Quick point..... the cracks at Lorry Park - should they really be bolted? I get that they were not done previously & therefore dirty... however I think it would have been fine to have the bolted face routes either side, which would probably mean they are done more.

Supercrack, I would argue, is the best true crack climb in the Peak, on perfect solid rock. Certainly climbs more like a true crack than London Wall.

The 6b+/c to its right is one of two thin hands cracks I can think of (Gates of Mordor being the other)
Then the 6c+ groove a few right is perfect gear the whole way.

Not meaning to  :worms: but I thought they were all true crack climbs of true quality!
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Danny on May 30, 2018, 05:03:14 pm
Stu Bradbury might have a few good additions to this list:

https://www.facebook.com/stu.bradbury.3/posts/302796983584117 (https://www.facebook.com/stu.bradbury.3/posts/302796983584117)
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Teaboy on May 30, 2018, 06:00:08 pm
Has Neb Direct been previously ruled out? I guess Nectar has too much corner?
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: user deactivated on May 30, 2018, 09:10:03 pm
Reticent mass murderer, quark and super crack don’t really climb like cracks. Harvest is off width to an easy section of hand jams and e3 6b I think? Rmm reaches up to some crimps on shelves and rocks up to a slopey hold I think maybe a couple of jams near the top.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: webbo on May 30, 2018, 09:25:56 pm
I climbed RMM as a crack as did the two mates I was with, they even taped up for it. However that was in the last century.
What about Forecourt Crawler at Caley, I remember  it having some finger tip jams.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: duncan on May 30, 2018, 09:30:30 pm
Unleash The Beast, Ardmair. Soft E4 (hands). At the same crag, Burning Desire E5 looks ace but I've not tried it.

There is a very obvious gap, assuming Northern Ireland counts as the UK.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: reeve on May 30, 2018, 10:15:24 pm
Good listing Jonny!

De Profundis: although it has a short section of offwidth / chimney, the crux is hands and fists in the roof.

Harvest is in the right list for me (hands), I remember it being all hands and fists, not offwidth. What about Nectar just next door (I've not done it).

Marie would like to suggest Pit Pony at Rowtor. It's a horizontal offwidth roof with no face holds, with no description anywhere on the internet. About friend 5 size and increasing, but invert. Anyone heard anything about it? It's in the cave / passage immediately left of yogurt hypnotist. It looked traumatic. I didn't try it.


Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: SA Chris on May 31, 2018, 09:04:22 am
Unleash The Beast, Ardmair. Soft E4 (hands). At the same crag, Burning Desire E5 looks ace but I've not tried it.


Both in the UKC list I hyperlinked to above.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: user deactivated on June 03, 2018, 08:49:02 am
Hi Reeve  :wave: , yes it’s a great list and as you guys have reminded me my crack climbing skills are pretty limited to say the least! Anything wider than hands feels desperate to me which made me think harvest is offwidth for the hard bit (3ft of climbing). Reticent mass murderer i climbed as a boulder problem into good hands, I think left hand shelf right in the crack, can’t remember it being wide enough to hand jam low down? On another note I greased off fingerlicker in horrendously humid conditions last week, sad times....  :wall:
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: user deactivated on June 03, 2018, 11:48:20 am
Just read the rest of the post, I was out with Rocket man when he did Pit Pony. It looked to be an upside down grovel on hand / fist stacks with legs fed up into the crack. Eventually emerging through the hole. Specialist stuff. Nectar top pitch always felt desperate to me, never completed it. I'm sure it's reach dependent if you can keep your feet on the right ledge to reach the good jams?
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: r-man on August 03, 2018, 10:50:11 pm
A new one for the list. Guards of Magog, E4 6a at Lee Quarry, Bacup. Impressive crack line hidden in a deep dark hole. Often damp, so summer is the time to do it. (Just try not to wander too near the opposite buttress, which has a habit of shedding rocks.)

https://instagram.com/p/Bl_pwPujql3/

From this point up it's sustained jamming, hands then fists.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: SA Chris on August 06, 2018, 09:57:43 am
so this summer is the time to do it.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Teaboy on August 06, 2018, 11:14:38 am
so this summer is the time to do it.

Good point, I've been to Lee Quarry and by next summer this line could be the "The soaring arete that used to be half of....."
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: r-man on August 06, 2018, 11:39:34 am
 :lol:

True.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Will Hunt on August 22, 2018, 11:10:49 am
I had a go at Forecourt Crawler (Caley, E4 6b) last night. Considering it's an Allen and Bancroft route and an incredibly obvious line, the lack of attention it receives is very unusual. It only gets one star which seems odd. It's a thin crack in the back of a shallow, flared groove. Couple of easy hands to do a straightforward start onto a good foothold on the left and then things get tough. Really thin fingers (and I've got rat fingers anyway, God help anyone with normal fingers), bridged feet on either side of the groove allow a reach to better fingerlocks up above. You can then find a semi-restful position by basically back and footing the groove. This is where I got to on my third go, but lack of rest between goes meant I'd run out of puff.

Thereafter it attacks the top headwall which looks OKish if the things that look like holds from below are actually holds (when is this ever the case?), but the gear will be by/under your feet and the guide mentions a "last hard move" at the very top. I'd be interested for beta on this if anyone has done it. I suspect the top doesn't see much traffic with people sneaking off left or right after the end of the crack. Webbo must have done this?

Photo of the easy start here: https://ukbouldering.net/board/index.php/topic,6644.msg95583.html#msg95583
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: webbo on August 22, 2018, 12:50:19 pm
I have done this but did the sneaking off left exit. My excuse for this inexcusable behaviour was that’s what my climbing partners  Dougie Hall and Kim  Carrigan did.
Isn’t there a good finger hold on the left arête of the groove where it starts to lean back.
Our ascents were a four man sieging session one drizzly morning. We started of with 3 RP’s as protecton but two of them got kicked out. 3 of us had got up it, then the top holds got a bit damper and Chris the Nose greased off the finger hold ripping out the RP on his way down to land flat on his back.
As he lay there groaning in agony, Dougie ever the gentleman asked if wanted him to go replace the RP.
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: Will Hunt on August 22, 2018, 01:07:49 pm
I have done this but did the sneaking off left exit. My excuse for this inexcusable behaviour was that’s what my climbing partners  Dougie Hall and Kim  Carrigan did.
Isn’t there a good finger hold on the left arête of the groove where it starts to lean back.
Our ascents were a four man sieging session one drizzly morning. We started of with 3 RP’s as protecton but two of them got kicked out. 3 of us had got up it, then the top holds got a bit damper and Chris the Nose greased off the finger hold ripping out the RP on his way down to land flat on his back.
As he lay there groaning in agony, Dougie ever the gentleman asked if wanted him to go replace the RP.

Good tale, Steve. Interesting that the sneaking off exit seems so popular - maybe that explains one star, that it's so tempting to escape off. I'd assumed that if you were going to bail, you'd go right onto Pedestal Wall rather than the horror that is Compulsion Crack!
Title: Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
Post by: webbo on August 22, 2018, 01:40:00 pm
No you bail left and climb down Compulsion Crack. It’s probably easier if you have been staying at Desroys and eating toast out of the toaster with the dead mice in it. The added animal protein when you’re a vegetarian gives added power.
The first ascent went left.
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