UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: shark on March 27, 2017, 01:20:19 pm
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BMC buys Crookrise crag, Yorkshire (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-buys-crookrise-crag)
To protect future access for climbers and walkers, the BMC has bought Crookrise Crag, a nationally-important grit crag in Yorkshire.
The number one priority of the BMC is our vital access work for climbers and walkers. From volunteers negotiating access at local bouldering venues to lobbying parliament, our ongoing work means that you can just get out there.
Sometimes, when access could be threatened, more direct intervention is needed. Consequently, if a crag comes up for sale and we believe that there is a risk to continued public access to an important climbing area then we will consider buying it.
As a result, the BMC now owns eight crags: Horseshoe Quarry, Aldery Cliff, Harrison’s Rocks, Stone Farm, Craig y Longridge, Wilton One, Bwlch y Moch at Tremadog and, as of 20 March 2017, Crookrise.
"This nationally important crag is tucked away in the forests of Yorkshire"
Crookrise is a gritstone gem. This nationally important crag is tucked away in the forests of Yorkshire, a short walk above Embsay Reservoir just north of Skipton. A very high-quality gritstone edge, it’s been a key stomping ground for many of Yorkshire’s finest climbers.
Crookrise was owned by the Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority, who were selling off their land assets. There were a number of interested buyers for various reasons (such as parties with shooting interests) and, while the crag is located on open access land, it could have led to complicated access issues.
The potential threat to continued access for the public, and the historical importance of this crag, gave the BMC enough reason to consider the purchase. In 2015 the BMC Access Team and the BMC Land Management Group sprung into action and started work on a detailed feasibility study. Once our teams had finished their research, Crookrise was bought by the BMC for £18,000, plus legal fees.
Now we own Crookrise, our plans include some gardening, managing the growth of trees that shade boulders/crags, and working with local volunteers to find out exactly what’s needed and to help them improve the crag.
Top climber and BMC ambassador Steve McClure said:
“Buying Crookrise demonstrates the commitment of the BMC to securing access to the outdoors. Crookrise is one of the premier crags in the area, and it sums up what gritstone climbing is all about. It’s got everything: good quality rock, good position and varied routes.”
Rob Dyer, BMC access & conservation officer, said:
“It's great news for walkers and climbers alike. Being able to protect access to beautiful areas of the countryside like Crookrise is just one of the many things we do for our members and the wider public. It's thanks to their continued support that we can keep on working to protect the locations and interests they hold dear. We'd also like to say thanks to the Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority for accepting our offer of purchase. They can rest easy knowing Crookrise is in safe hands with the BMC”
With cuts to national park budgets and increasing pressures on the outdoors, BMC access and conservation work is more vital than ever. The best way that you can support us is to join us as a member. (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/membership)
JOIN: Support the BMC for only £15.72 (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/membership)
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Great news!
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18,000 grand seems very cheap!
How often to decent crags come up for sale? Quite fancy having my own crag. Once I've got everything wired I'll sell it on again to the BMC.
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Does that include Deer Gallows or just the main crag.
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Does that include Deer Gallows or just the main crag.
The RAD database suggests it doesn't include Deer Gallows (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/view.aspx?id=475) but I'll confirm with Rob Dyer when I next see him.
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... Crookrise was bought by the BMC for £18,000, plus legal fees.
18,000 grand
I'd heard rumours inflation was on the up but that is really something.
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As a general point the commitment to the ongoing management and maintenance in perpetuity is the main cost consideration.
However, I gather there there is a wood below the crag ripe for commercial exploitation :greed:
I am currently looking into fracking rights.
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Some of that wood cut back will get Jason's Roof in good condition more often!
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Brilliant. Great to hear this has gone ahead.
What Chris says, Jason's and a fair few other blocks will be much improved with a few of those spruces felled.
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Brilliant. Great to hear this has gone ahead.
What Chris says, Jason's and a fair few other blocks will be much improved with a few of those spruces felled.
And there's the possibility for new problems to be found in the woods with judicious pruning.
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Great News: Not wanting to put anyone off or anything but a couple of summers ago when it gotten too hot to climb I thought of exploring the woods for hidden gems. A minor issue of some idiot shooting in the woods which seemed to get more frequent the nearer to the woods I got. Decided to run away with my tail between my legs. Sure that things would be fine with some kind of stealth mission from the Yorkshire Esoterica Squad...
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Does anyone know if this means people will be able to bring dogs to crag? I don't have one but I know friends who don't go to this crag because they have a dog to consider.
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And there's the possibility for new problems to be found in the woods with judicious pruning.
There's gold in them there hills.
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Does anyone know if this means people will be able to bring dogs to crag? I don't have one but I know friends who don't go to this crag because they have a dog to consider.
My understanding is that dogs aren't allowed on the Barden Moor access area due to grouse shoot management issues; given that the only access to Crookrise is (currently?) via the open access moorland this seems unlikely to change.
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Not the most exciting or crucial crag to buy, but great news anyway! With all the fuss going on about the BMC, this is a good thing to hear about what matters to a lot of climbers: access to and responsibility of proper crags :)
Now if they can install a chairlift.....
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plus 1 on the good news front, but not the chair lift. The place would be crawling with DH'ers in minutes queuing up to take the drop in over Hovis direct!
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I thought the BMC was all about promoting indoor climbing and competitions!
Crookrise is lovely. The suggestion is other parties, much less positive towards climbing access, were also interested in purchasing. This seems like a very appropriate place and time to buy.
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If there were other more nefarious parties, it can only be good.
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£18K for Crookrise seems like an infinitely better deal than £1 for Horseshoe.
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Does anyone know if this means people will be able to bring dogs to crag? I don't have one but I know friends who don't go to this crag because they have a dog to consider.
My understanding is that dogs aren't allowed on the Barden Moor access area due to grouse shoot management issues; given that the only access to Crookrise is (currently?) via the open access moorland this seems unlikely to change.
Yes - the access team say there is a dog ban on Barden Moor, which you have to cross to reach the land we now own around Crookrise. Dogs are allowed on rights of way, but unfortunately the path going up to the crag is a permissive path rather than a right of way. So no improved access for dogs we're afraid.
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Do you know exactly what land they have bought, would be interesting to know if they have purchased some of the woodland? Its in serious need of felling and would be nice to replant the existing coniferous plantation with deciduous trees. There is also quite a bit of potential to improve the biodiversity in the area.
Living local, being heavily involved with conservation, I love to help. Does anyone have an email address for the relevant person to contact?
Thanks
Dan
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Hi Dan,
Yes I gather it includes the woodland. Thanks for the offer. :2thumbsup:
The contact is Rob Dyer robd@thebmc.co.uk
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Do you know exactly what land they have bought, would be interesting to know if they have purchased some of the woodland?
Living local, being heavily involved with conservation, I love to help. Does anyone have an email address for the relevant person to contact?
The purchased land is quite a narrow strip containing the crag, a path above the crag, the boulders at the bottom and some but not all of the woodland, although I can't exactly recall the plans as it was over a year ago that I saw them.
As Shark said, contact Rob Dyer about helping, it will be appreciated.
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Its in serious need of felling and would be nice to replant the existing coniferous plantation with deciduous trees. There is also quite a bit of potential to improve the biodiversity in the area.
+1 to this, good call.
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Do you know exactly what land they have bought, would be interesting to know if they have purchased some of the woodland? Its in serious need of felling and would be nice to replant the existing coniferous plantation with deciduous trees. There is also quite a bit of potential to improve the biodiversity in the area.
Living local, being heavily involved with conservation, I love to help. Does anyone have an email address for the relevant person to contact?
Although I've only visited Crookrise once, this is great news. And +1 on some meaningful restoration. That would be a welcome contrast to the anachronistic and obscene management of many grouse moors that masquerades as conservation.
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+1
... some meaningful restoration. That would be a welcome contrast to the anachronistic and obscene management of many grouse moors that masquerades as conservation.