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places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: ksjs on November 06, 2008, 10:43:57 am

Title: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: ksjs on November 06, 2008, 10:43:57 am
i thought this might be a worthwhile addition to the conditions threads. am there fairly regularly so will try to keep it up to date. sadly, i cant start this with good news:

i was there yesterday and its the worst ive seen it since i started going there in early summer - everything was completely sopping so id avoid for some time  :(
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on November 06, 2008, 11:42:12 am
Good addition. We need a continous cold snap!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Andy F on November 06, 2008, 03:10:17 pm
Erm, didn't we have one last week Tom?  :-\
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: ksjs on November 25, 2008, 06:43:03 pm
not great today - one or two dry patches and firestarter etc can be climbed but pockets still damp and under roof is seeping / dripping lots in places. in short not worth going out of your way for right now.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: ksjs on December 01, 2008, 03:46:13 pm
much better yesterday - nearly totally dry but still some lingering damp / drips under main roof area especially inside the pod on Panty's Down. even UTB had people on it though the LH pinch was a bit damp.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: ksjs on January 06, 2009, 09:55:48 am
yesterday was a bit of a mix: perfect conditions on Under The Bridge and the Robert Duvall area but the main area, with the excpetion of the small non-roof section to the left, was wet early on. it dried up as the sun came onto it but the pockets remained damp all day. possibly condensation?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on January 11, 2009, 04:23:22 pm
Was in surprisingly excellent nick today. Would have managed a repeat of UTB except for the continual ant's piss like rain falling on the flatty. The main gorge area was the best and stickiest I had ever felt it. A few people turned up to pull down later on in the afternoon but it was starting to get a bit pissy. All in all, if the rain stays light, going to be worth a session over next few days.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: ksjs on February 02, 2009, 10:31:29 am
great conditions yesterday but very hard to get going, just a touch cold.
everything dry including UTB except for very recessed stuff under main roof like the pod on Panty's Down etc
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Nike Air on March 15, 2009, 04:12:12 pm
Is this place good to go now? Bouldering and routes? Must be coming into nick....
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Nike Air on March 15, 2009, 04:20:27 pm
Oh and Are there still bolts in the project finish to the classic 7b?? Down wales next week and just seeing whats what..
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on March 15, 2009, 07:10:37 pm
Keen to hear also what nick UTB area is in if you happen to get there Jordan.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Andy F on March 15, 2009, 07:44:19 pm
Oh and Are there still bolts in the project finish to the classic 7b?? Down wales next week and just seeing whats what..

AFAIK the bolts on the continuation to Grand Canyon 7b+ (I guess that's what you mean) are still in. Don't know the condition though. If you can get hold of Lee Procter he may well know more.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Nike Air on March 15, 2009, 07:59:20 pm
Yea Grand Canyon ext, looks a great route. A boulder prob finish after a good rest. I ll try Lee, think it was him who pointed it out to me last time I was there.

Is the under the bridge stuff any good, whats what there??


Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Andy F on March 15, 2009, 08:31:37 pm
TBH Jordan it's been years since I was last there. Again Lee is your best bet.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on March 15, 2009, 09:06:42 pm
Lee told me the bolts are slightly off the route on Grand Canyon extension, should be ok though. under the Bridge is great. jordan get in touch when you come over.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: ksjs on March 27, 2009, 01:51:39 pm
in great nick 2 days ago: everything, including UTB*, was totally dry (*the hole that you can use with LH at start was damp but this doesnt detract from moves and can be avoided anyway)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on March 29, 2009, 01:07:02 pm
UTB area was mint but shothole was slightly damp. Roof area also sound.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Richie Crouch on April 21, 2009, 10:58:10 pm
In very good condition today. A little greasy in the sun but later on it was superb  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: superfurrymonkey on April 26, 2009, 09:46:18 am
Heading over today any recent updates?  :)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: saltbeef on April 26, 2009, 06:33:05 pm
where is this place? and is there a guide?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on April 26, 2009, 06:40:21 pm
There's a section in Clywyd Rock Climbs with a photo topo of the main area. Going to be there on tuesday evening saltbeef with a small team if you're interested.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: saltbeef on April 26, 2009, 06:52:24 pm
would be keen but have a meeting after work...
let us know when you's next going and i shall attempt to attend.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on April 26, 2009, 07:12:06 pm
Cool. Will be there a lot after exams finish soon.  Need some serious project/cleaning time!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: superfurrymonkey on April 26, 2009, 10:21:05 pm
Not a wet hold in sight which was nice  :)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: monkey boy on April 27, 2009, 10:29:28 pm
Cool. Will be there a lot after exams finish soon.  Need some serious project/cleaning time!
Maybe heading here next saturday dude you around? Hopefully doyle or danny will show us around but if not you game? Am psyched!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Richie Crouch on April 29, 2009, 01:53:43 pm
It was still bone dry yesterday evening even after all that heavy rain. Not sure how many days it takes to seep through though  :shrug:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on April 29, 2009, 02:56:53 pm
Cool. Will be there a lot after exams finish soon.  Need some serious project/cleaning time!
Maybe heading here next saturday dude you around? Hopefully doyle or danny will show us around but if not you game? Am psyched!

One time brother. I'd love to get there on saturday but if it's not happening I'm sure one of those lovely backdoor felons will take good care of you! Keep in touch holmes.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on May 03, 2009, 12:04:38 pm
Dave, I'm heading out later and probably will be to the gorge. Did you get here yesterday or are you going today?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: monkey boy on May 04, 2009, 04:01:31 pm
Nay man am down next weekend as in sat. Danny is giving us the tour on sat if your about? What was it like yesterday? It a seeping place or not?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: fatneck on May 04, 2009, 07:42:26 pm
It was still in good nick today. We will be down there tomorrow evening for another session... so will keep updating! :)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: monkey boy on May 05, 2009, 01:10:54 pm
Cheers that be well useful, psyched to check out this place, it looks goood!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: monkey boy on May 08, 2009, 02:39:06 pm
Any knowledge on conditions?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on May 08, 2009, 11:53:24 pm
Hope it's as sweet as a beaver. Should be man. Are you motoring over at all?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: monkey boy on May 11, 2009, 01:22:10 pm
In good nic saturday and yesterday even though it rained both days. I liked the setting a lot and the climbing was bon. Physical limestone now theres a change! 

Effort Mule!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on May 11, 2009, 05:29:11 pm
Effort on UTB flash beast!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 11, 2009, 09:01:18 pm
Effort on UTB flash beast!

He had good beta  ;)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 11, 2009, 10:43:51 pm
Aye good effort! I'd love to get some info on Under Pressure, seemed a bit back scrapingly low to the ground if it goes left of Be Ruthless?!

Did any of team strong get on Sparks at all? Be keen to get a concensus on it in comparison to Be Ruthless..etc  :shrug:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 11, 2009, 10:46:27 pm
Aye good effort! I'd love to get some info on Under Pressure, seemed a bit back scrapingly low to the ground if it goes left of Be Ruthless?!

Did any of team strong get on Sparks at all? Be keen to get a concensus on it in comparison to Be Ruthless..etc  :shrug:

Didn't seem very back scraping, wasn't an issue at all. My weakness was though!  :lol:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on May 12, 2009, 11:49:46 am
effort on 36 Chambers too Mason, good one eh!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: monkey boy on May 12, 2009, 12:44:07 pm
Yeh under pressure isnt back scraping at all, the climbing is really good and the last move, well you gotta love it (drop knees are cheating)!!

Didnt try and link sparks (dont know why) but i did the v6 that it starts up and from the two good pockets to the end. It felt a bit harder than be ruthless probably 7c+ maybe, i reckon the last move would be hard on the link! Again a really cool last move, this place has a lot of them!

Under the bridge is really good to, definately suits the tall i thnk!

effort on 36 Chambers too Mason, good one eh!

Yeh tis quality!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on May 12, 2009, 03:01:06 pm
Did you do UTB with the two crimps Dave or via the camp side foot snag? Brutal the former way and still brutal the latter! Half expected my project to get ticked at a recession price grade  :'(
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: monkey boy on May 12, 2009, 03:39:53 pm
Project? Where is this?

Got the two crimps, went right hand to the next crimp up then left hand to side pull jug and right hand underneath to flatty! Heel on and out to finishing jug! The rock was tres bon!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on May 12, 2009, 10:36:39 pm
danny did the sit from the tufas to 36 chambers today at hard 7c+, very cool
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: monkey boy on May 13, 2009, 11:41:03 am
Cool!

Ben did the groove the other day from sit start on the tufas get to the mini jug in the groove up to a pocket (which has a stick growing in it) and finish like 36 chambers. Ned did the stand first and it being his birthday it was named 22 chambers (7c).
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on May 22, 2009, 08:54:45 pm
If anyone gets to the mwyn in the next 2 days could you please pop into UTB sector and tell me general state of the wall. Thanks.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: fatneck on May 26, 2009, 12:46:49 pm
Tom, Holger did your project a couple of weeks ago, thought you would have heard?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: andy_e on May 26, 2009, 01:58:12 pm
(http://www.nicht-nuechtern.de/nn30/wp-content/SadRoo.gif)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 27, 2009, 12:13:56 am
 :boohoo:

I wonder if the aesthetic direct sitter is still up for grabs  :lol:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on May 27, 2009, 01:59:51 pm
Tom, Holger did your project a couple of weeks ago, thought you would have heard?

Is this true?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: JohnM on May 27, 2009, 02:44:35 pm
Holger said he did the start to the project route in the guide book involving a big span of undercuts.  I'm not sure if that was your project Tom?  He reckoned it was about V5/6.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on May 27, 2009, 08:26:04 pm
Unless several years of dedicated (until super recent) training haven't done a sausage, I think I'm safe. There's a loan pinch undercut but certainly not plural. I'm keen to see what he's done actually. More to the point, despite hours of scouring, I'm keen to see if I've done a Si O  :-\ ::)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: fatneck on June 09, 2009, 07:36:04 am
Tom, we're going down tonight for a session if you're keen?

I'll happily point out where his line went as I'm not really sure where your line was.

BTW It's "lone"....

sorry
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Dirty Lion on July 02, 2009, 11:12:41 pm
Any info if this venue's a good choice with the current warm/humid weather?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on July 03, 2009, 12:05:17 am
I'd rather try The Ace in these conditions than climb at the Mwyn.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on August 14, 2009, 08:21:22 pm
Was boners on main roof today. UTB was mostly fine but slightly condensing this afternoon.

Sadly some bell cheddars have had a big fire under the roof. Didn't seem to be any damage sustained to any holds but a black mess at the moment.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on August 21, 2009, 01:34:23 pm
Boners yesterday everywhere. Routes also (are they not banned or something at the moment? Maybe imagining it?)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: nodder on January 27, 2010, 05:24:39 pm
any one been whats seepage and stuff like over here?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on February 25, 2010, 03:19:21 pm
had a look yesterday and everything was wet. ended up going to hope mountain and doing a comedy slopey traverse ( your bums about six inches off the ground)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Jim on February 25, 2010, 06:51:14 pm
good to see other people going to hope mountain. An underated classic venue
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: andy popp on February 25, 2010, 08:10:14 pm
Is there any info for Hope Mountain on-line anywhere, its always looked intriguing
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Zods Beard on February 25, 2010, 11:25:38 pm
Classic times at Hope Mountain.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Jim on February 26, 2010, 06:36:50 am
i'll happily give you a tour andy
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: a dense loner on February 26, 2010, 09:28:48 am
even i enjoyed hope mountain
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Jim on February 26, 2010, 09:48:51 am
that was actually monuments, we didn't climb at hope because it was damp. i'll let you off tho
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Zods Beard on February 27, 2010, 05:15:44 pm
Anyone know what it'll be like tomorrow?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on February 27, 2010, 07:08:33 pm
if your talking about hope when i went on wednesday there was only the slopey traverse dry ( not the slopey traverse near the lookout another one on the left hand end) because of melting snow , the v5 on the extreme left was almost dry but the tiny
crimp was damp and the top was damp , its been wet in mold today but if the snow s gone it does dry quick because of its exposed nature hope that helps ,no pun intended.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Zods Beard on February 27, 2010, 08:26:46 pm
Ha, no I meant Pantymwyn.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on February 27, 2010, 10:10:03 pm
ah well my subtle attempt to turn this into a conditions report on hope didnt work, but when i went to pantymwyn on wednesday everything was soaking so my guess is dont bother. but if your a fan of esoterica last time i went to monuments i did a cool problem,
which involved starting on the right arete traversing left across the vertical roadside face
around the corner using a kneebar then traversing left across the slightly overhanging face and up using a two finger pocket. no real hard moves but lots of them about 25 and pretty sustained about v5 or 6, and monuments is very quick drying.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: andy_e on February 27, 2010, 10:43:32 pm
Boners yesterday everywhere.

Sounds like a standard evening round Millso's.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: yorkshireman on February 28, 2010, 01:19:01 pm
is there a topo anywhere for pantymwyn or is it in a guide?may check it out on my next trip to parisellas as its virtually on the way and looks pretty decent from the youtube vids
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Richie Crouch on February 28, 2010, 02:40:38 pm
There is a topo in clwyd limestone to give an idea of lines but its a bit poo and the grades are slightly off.

Doylo's vid of Sam gives a clue to most things and one of Millso's showing Under the Bridge around the corner (at the fence).
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: a dense loner on March 15, 2010, 05:08:14 pm
how do you get to the crag at pantymuen, coming from mold?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: a dense loner on March 16, 2010, 07:27:41 am
any takers on how to get to the crag? i'm getting fat eating pub food. luckily its steak so i'll be at the top of my game. cheers
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 16, 2010, 09:16:29 am
I can't find 'Pantymuen' on a map I'm afraid. Is it a new venue?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on March 16, 2010, 10:22:01 am
I don't think it's that new. Possibly dates back to the Cretaceous period although I'm no geologist so couldn't date it too precisely.

To be more useful; http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?hl=en&source=hp&q=pantymwyn&oq=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=Pantymwyn,+Mold,+Clwyd&gl=uk&ei=B1ufS5TXO5uI0wSW2K2TDA&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CAoQ8gEwAA (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?hl=en&source=hp&q=pantymwyn&oq=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=Pantymwyn,+Mold,+Clwyd&gl=uk&ei=B1ufS5TXO5uI0wSW2K2TDA&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CAoQ8gEwAA)

I don't drive and despite having been to Pantymwyn ten million times I never seem to have taken any notice of road names and such like. Just visual maps in my mind. To which extent Lee, you should phone someone like Mule, Owen, Fatneck, Doyle etc etc.

Be nice to see you sometime soon after the last two years of your mono campussing campaign.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Dhanny on March 18, 2010, 05:58:42 pm
cave still dry??
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Dhanny on March 18, 2010, 06:14:17 pm
haha sorry wrong thread :S
ill re post...
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on March 27, 2010, 10:19:24 am
 I hereby declare the pantymwyn leisure complex open. under the bridge dry (as of friday)
 right of under the bridge is dry for hands but some dampness lower down, robert duval area i think is dry. Main area dry completely,  lovely to be back .
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: clm on April 04, 2010, 08:05:41 am
anyone been recently?  This gaff may be plan b for today.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on April 04, 2010, 07:25:53 pm
If it helps anyone as some people seem unclear of where to park etc, I made two quick PDF's for dense to find it. Just drop me a mail here if you happen to need it. It's hardly a published OS map but it should help.

Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: fatneck on May 25, 2010, 11:04:47 pm
A little warm tonight, but otherwise dry and in pretty good nick!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: gruffalo on May 26, 2010, 08:39:25 am
was greasy last night best time was around 7 till about 9
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: RobinB on August 17, 2010, 05:44:49 pm
Has anyone got a topo they could poin t me to / send me for Pantymwyn bouldering?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on August 17, 2010, 06:10:40 pm
Hi Robin,

I'd imagine the gorge to be a bit smeggy at present. I could be wrong as conditions are a fickle beast to predict but whatever happens, enjoy!

*edit as forgot to read 3 posts below.  :-[
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: bobber on September 26, 2010, 10:59:43 pm
Anyone been recently?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: bobber on September 27, 2010, 04:38:45 pm
well it was all dry today
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Dhanny on October 28, 2010, 10:01:12 pm
anyone know the score, may shoot tomorrow...
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Dhanny on November 01, 2010, 05:41:52 pm
good today..... the pantys down/thug mentatlity jug was seeping a bit but dryable and the sparks slots were a bit minging.... the rest was bone.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Byronic on December 12, 2010, 10:37:55 pm
good today..... the pantys down/thug mentatlity jug was seeping a bit but dryable and the sparks slots were a bit minging.... the rest was bone.

The jug's still a bit suspect, but it's not alone now, the entire front is all but dry, climbable with a bit of attention but  10/15mins post clean everything's slightly damp again, a good breeze or a bit of sun makes a big difference, particularly bad are the aforementioned jug and the holds on the midsection of thug mentality. Mental extension is pretty much fine barring the sloper, which is pretty crappy when dry :P

Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Byronic on December 27, 2010, 09:14:48 am
A little bit greasy yesterday, nothing unfixable though, mental extension sloper was in the only bad hold  on the link (no surprises there though). I think it can safely be said that christmas eve day it was in the best condition it's ever been when I went down, every hold was like glue (except the thumb catch hold on thug mentality, which was like having a stalactite of inch thick Ice running down it :))

Generally the further to the left the better the holds, a few on the sparks end were v damp.

Also the place looks amazing in the snow.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Byronic on January 19, 2011, 10:44:53 am
Thinking of heading up in a couple of hours, anyone been down recently, or have a good idea of what it'd be like there? Be a shame to make the trip to find it drippy :)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Dexter on January 19, 2011, 11:19:44 am
thats not what I heard I heard you love it a bit drippy
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Byronic on January 19, 2011, 06:13:05 pm
My indoor and outdoor hobbies have different criteria dexter!


Conditions a bit less than ideal there today, dampish holds, not too bad with a little attention, should be tippity-top tomorrow though if it doesn't rain, especially post 3 0'clock when  the face gets some sun.

Only the underside (undercit sit start etc) was drippy, maybe that'll get slightly better as well.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: andy popp on February 12, 2011, 07:49:47 am
I've never been so haven't a clue: is it likely to be climable today?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Jim on February 12, 2011, 10:28:38 am
I seriously doubt it
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on February 23, 2011, 03:44:11 pm
was there yesterday firestarter dry apart from the starting jug but you can use the sloper instead, sparks slots damp. pantys down wet and thug mentality but mental extension was bone dry and the robert duval area was dry. Looks like someone s put a new problem up to the right of rober duval about v3 and really cool moves theres a left to right traverse there as well about 7a starting on an undercut blocky fang and finishing on a sloper with white mold spores. Under the bridge area was soaking.
( disclaimer: rained a bit today , any inuendo purely accidental)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Dexter on February 25, 2011, 03:26:54 pm
anyone been down recently going here on sunday and was wondering what was wet/soaked/dry?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on March 06, 2011, 08:58:13 am
everything wet apart from the the robert duval area yesterday. going down tomorrow
to see what its like.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on March 08, 2011, 02:03:08 pm
perfect conditions yesterday every thing dry apart from pantys down and that was climable with a bit of attention. Does anybody know where firestarter direct goes ?
cheers.  p.s. lovely day  so should be even better today
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Teaboy on March 08, 2011, 03:28:12 pm
perfect conditions yesterday every thing dry apart from pantys down and that was climable with a bit of attention. Does anybody know where firestarter direct goes ?
cheers.  p.s. lovely day  so should be even better today

Are you a local as I'm hoping to get down there after work from next Wednesday onwards? Would be good to meet up with someone as last year I fair winded myself on some unplanned dismounts and the landing under Pantys down is a bit of an ankle twister.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on March 08, 2011, 08:53:23 pm
yes i live in mold happy to team up ( ive winded myself on pantys down as well)
but i work in the evening and usually go in the morning have wednesdays off so am a
bit more flexible then, cheers
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on March 14, 2011, 02:47:05 pm
Bone dry today perfect conditions, does anybody know what firestarter direct into the left hand finish gets?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on March 16, 2011, 03:40:56 pm
not sure, great conditions again today surprisingly seeing as it was damp and horrible yesterday. Was trying firestarter direct into the left hand finish, brilliant ,10/ 11  moves
that all feel about the same difficulty , sustained and quite draining  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on March 23, 2011, 06:01:53 pm
absolutely bone dry now, even pocket on pantys down are dry and footholds.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Teaboy on May 11, 2011, 06:25:19 pm
All the routes were bone dry yesterday. Take a brush and enjoy some cracking sports routes
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on May 17, 2011, 09:48:33 am
still holding out well, absolutely bone dry as of monday. Even after a week of rain, yes i cant wait to try some of the sports routes got my eye on bannanas and coffee.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: andy popp on May 21, 2011, 07:17:19 pm
Will it still be holding out? Is there any worthwhile easier climbing? Is Under the Bridge obvious - sorry about the stream of questions.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on May 24, 2011, 11:03:08 pm
yes should be still dry, was bone dry on monday and we were climbing in persistant rain. yes lots of easier stuff for bouldering, juggy traverse to warm up left of be ruthless
and a slopey v4 left of that then the stand up to firestarter is about v4 and really cool.
There's a v4 right of robert duvall and problem 9 in the guide is v4 then problem 8 is about v4 now after a hold breaking, and you can link the two for a v5. then add the juggy hand rail for hard v5, then add a v5 on to the top of problem 9 for a ? then youve got all the problems in the guide. plus gasoline, the stand starts left of firestarter on two crimps foot up on a little bobbin up with right to a v shaped triangle hold that you get with your middle two fingers then go again for a crimp and up left to finish. Under the bridge is just before the fence and gate in the gorge itself on the right. On the route front, starts about 7a+ but echoes is a bit dirty.grand canyon looks allright and im trying ten year fog at the moment  7b+ but all the routes are dry. Ill be there wednesday evening from about 5 if you fancy a session.

Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on May 25, 2011, 07:32:05 pm
Grand canyon is ace.echoes hasn't been cleaned this year yet
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: jimmykay on May 25, 2011, 08:50:23 pm
Hey, the guide book mentions an impressive looking 8b project to Grand Canyon? Do you know whether this worth a look? Are the bolts any good? And has anyone done it yet?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on May 25, 2011, 10:20:51 pm
Lee proctor bolted it and has been trying it for 4 years so unless you want a mans suicide on your conscience i d leave it. :) theres plenty of other potential new routes there
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: jimmykay on May 26, 2011, 12:30:05 am
 :oops: I didn't realise it was his project! :-)

I was at Dinbren a couple of months ago and overheard Lee talking about some new routes at Pwll Glas. I've got family in Ruthin so would love to find out about any developments over that way. I went for a look 2 years ago with the Clwyd guide and it seemed as though a load of new lines had already been put up. I appreciate any info!

Also, I just watched the Sam Cattell video on youtube and am psyched for tomorrow! Great soundtrack!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on May 26, 2011, 12:37:51 am
Under The Bridge is literally right under it from a slot up a guppy and/or crimps and then upto a flatty on towards a jug rail Andy. You'll bone the crimps and campus to glory I suspect rather than stretch armstrong type method guppying.

I was working the wall right of Under The Bridge for a while where there's a very small quartz crimp in the middle of the wall with some wide footed nonsense locking this with your left hand ultimately trying to pop to a borehole type bucket slot. I never did it, but the plan was to do the old route project (that I think never got done) from climbing the boulder problem at this direct start. Super direct but a) maybe rubbish and b) often wet. Maybe in summer being on the doorstep boredom will lead me here again.

Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: lee proctor on May 26, 2011, 12:01:23 pm

I was at Dinbren a couple of months ago and overheard Lee talking about some new routes at Pwll Glas. I've got family in Ruthin so would love to find out about any developments over that way. I went for a look 2 years ago with the Clwyd guide and it seemed as though a load of new lines had already been put up. I appreciate any info!


If you email me I'll send you a topo of all the recent development at Pwll Glas.

Thanks for respecting my Devils Gorge project, As Chris stated I've been trying this pretty aggressively for the the last four years and its now tantalizingly close!

Lee
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on June 13, 2011, 10:44:16 pm
The gorge has finally succumbed to dampness. Main bouldering area still dry today apart from robert duvall area and under the bridge.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on June 24, 2011, 08:06:23 am
All dry again now  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: bobber on June 26, 2011, 10:20:21 pm
wet humid and hot today
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: ducko on July 05, 2011, 01:47:03 am
went here for the first time today, wicked area! climbed two routes echos and that small route under the bridge, both were dirty and dusty made life very hard, most of echoes is now clean but not ideal!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on July 18, 2011, 03:10:44 pm
Echoes is dry still, top of grand canyon a bit damp and the extension. Love in the time of cholera and the 7c to the left look dry. Pocket on pantys down is damp and the right hand end is a bit damp. middle section looks ok. under the bridge area is damp and robert duvall area.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: peewee on August 05, 2011, 01:02:14 pm
Anybody been there this week?? Will the bouldering be dry tommorow?


Cheers Pete
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: peewee on August 12, 2011, 07:07:06 pm
What will the bouldering be like down there after the rain recently does it seep a lot? thinking of heading down tomorrow.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: wintermute on April 18, 2012, 11:47:26 am
Anyone been down recently or know how it copes with prolonged rain? Thinking it might be the only viable option for friday (or not!).
Ta,
Chris
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on April 18, 2012, 12:07:42 pm
Given the previous few days and the next few days forecast, I doubt very much that it will be in decent nick.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Falling Down on April 18, 2012, 12:58:02 pm
I was there last Thursday and it was climbable with bits of seepage and some wet holds (not that I can get near anything above 7A - did a couple of the easier lines and Robert Duvall) after a couple of days in the sun.  I suspect it's got worse since then.....
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on April 19, 2012, 10:30:02 pm
Good news, was there today and most of the main area was dry. rob duval area is gopping and so is under the bridge. Panties was a bit damp( need a nappy) but mental extension, sparks, gasoline, firestarter was dry. In fact the rock had that special stickiness which is a joy.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on April 25, 2012, 05:04:19 pm
Sparks is still dry and gasoline and mental extension. Robert duvall area sopping as is the gorge and under the bridge area. Any campus monkeys wanting a perma dry v10 should try sparks  :yes:  Pantys is a bit damp.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on May 27, 2012, 11:13:02 pm
Bouldering area is now dry and the gorge is almost there. When it dries its a good bet for hot days, because of a weird 3 degree drop as soon as you step in. spooky
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: kingholmesy on June 08, 2012, 03:38:44 pm
Has anyone got any recent updates or predictions for tomorrow?  I am interested in routes up to F7b+ and problems to about V7/8.

Also, I've not been before but presume that as long as it's not seeping then it will stay dry in the rain?

Cheers, Luke.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: gruffalo on June 08, 2012, 06:34:56 pm
Judging by the mingin weather up this way I dont think the gorge will be in condition
not sure about the Bouldering?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: lee proctor on June 08, 2012, 07:41:58 pm
Don't bother everything is soaked, its beyond grim.  Been down there three times this week, even battled my way up my proj on soaking wet holds (its only been dry for two days in March). As for the bouldering; Under the bridge wall is a waterfall, Robert Duvall wall is an aquarium, the main bouldering wall is more moist than Jenna Jameson on a good day at the office!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: kingholmesy on June 08, 2012, 08:22:55 pm
 :lol:  It's wet then!

Ta. Luke.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: petejh on July 01, 2012, 09:30:13 pm
It amazes me to say it but it's DRY! Routes and under the bridge bouldering - LPT seeping like an infected open wound but the gorge dry, go figure? All routes right of Echoes are dry, partner did Grand Canyon and Broccoli & Ice Cream. New bolts now in the start of Bananas & Coffee.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on July 02, 2012, 06:03:15 pm
But for how long!!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: petejh on July 02, 2012, 08:01:37 pm
But for how long!!

Well I checked and the test blobs had set properly.  ::)


 ;)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: wintermute on July 26, 2012, 07:49:18 pm
Anyone know if it's likely to be in nick on Saturday? Looks like it might escape the worst of the imminent rain.
Ta
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Dhanny on August 16, 2012, 02:29:16 pm
heading down this eve, any one got any knowledge? cheers
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Andy B on August 16, 2012, 04:45:15 pm
All dry this lunchtime.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Richie Crouch on September 04, 2012, 10:04:56 pm
If anyone was down today or is going tomorrow, could I get a conditions report for a potential thurs trip please  :kiss2:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Davo on September 06, 2012, 07:23:58 am
Dry as a bone down there yesterday.

Thought you had done everything down there Rich?

Cheers Dave
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on September 06, 2012, 08:36:38 am
There's 2 8as and a 8a+ that are too hard for him ;)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Richie Crouch on September 06, 2012, 06:13:27 pm
Went down today and sunbathed! Roasting. Still very confused as to what you do on under pressure. Do you pull on matched on the undercuts lying upside down then use a multitude of shit wide splayed pinches going left until you get into the dyno holds of faith healer?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on September 06, 2012, 08:41:00 pm
pinchy undercut and finger hold and yes. Mule reckons Spinal tap is worth 8a+
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: andy_e on September 06, 2012, 08:43:33 pm
Hope you're not losing your Board Tan Rich!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: wintermute on September 28, 2012, 01:34:21 pm
Anyone been down recently? Not local so no idea what state it will be in, but considering a trip in the next few days.
Ta.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on September 28, 2012, 01:44:47 pm
Not been this week but you might be ok on the roof section if there has been/continues to be a decent breeze and no rain. Think tomorrow looks pretty good weather wise IIRC. Under The Bridge area I should imagine would be a bit poo but that said it's yielded some surprisingly amazing conditions during periods of poor weather. Worth a punt if nobody gets back to you here perhaps? Bring big guns  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on October 07, 2012, 06:39:33 pm
The gorge is in prime nick at the mo.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on October 19, 2012, 09:07:31 am
bouldering in good nick. cool temps. perfect.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on October 20, 2012, 07:51:34 pm
bouldering in good nick. broccoli dry on the route front.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on October 24, 2012, 10:02:53 pm
gopping at the mo, will have a look on friday to see if its improved.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on October 29, 2012, 04:50:59 pm
very good nick at the mo
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tunaficiency on December 06, 2012, 08:35:27 am
gopping at the mo, firestarter climable.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Byronic on January 04, 2013, 08:51:45 pm
Has anyone been down recently?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: wintermute on February 08, 2013, 12:39:01 pm
Anyone know if it's worth a look tomorrow?
Ta.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on February 08, 2013, 01:22:04 pm
I'm thinking of heading to Ruthin Escarpment tomorrow and possibly head to Pantymwyn as well. I'm sure Ruthin will be in good nick, not sure about the Mwyn though... Could be OK, it's sunny here today!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on February 10, 2013, 12:20:56 am
The Mwyn was soaking today. Every hold on every problem was wet. Bailed to Ruthin Escarpment and the main link up problems were dry-ish (holds needed a bit of drying) Worth noting a trip here is worth it if Mwyn is wet!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: wintermute on February 10, 2013, 12:16:27 pm
The Mwyn was soaking today. Every hold on every problem was wet. Bailed to Ruthin Escarpment and the main link up problems were dry-ish (holds needed a bit of drying) Worth noting a trip here is worth it if Mwyn is wet!

We wussed out and went indoors in the end, so cheers for validating our cowardice!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on February 10, 2013, 07:38:19 pm
The Mwyn was soaking today. Every hold on every problem was wet. Bailed to Ruthin Escarpment and the main link up problems were dry-ish (holds needed a bit of drying) Worth noting a trip here is worth it if Mwyn is wet!

We wussed out and went indoors in the end, so cheers for validating our cowardice!

I'd rather climb damp rock than go indoors on a weekend, mental...I know!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: john mc c on February 17, 2013, 07:24:45 pm
Cave in good condition today.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: john mc c on February 22, 2013, 09:24:39 pm
Tip Top Conditions.
UTB dry as well for the first time in a long while.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on March 13, 2013, 11:47:40 am
Was there yesterday trying Robert Duvall. All the bouldering is bone dry. Routes look to be drying out but have wet streaks in a lot of places.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on March 20, 2013, 10:42:23 am
Went yesterday eve. All dry, Robert Duvall is starting to seep a bit though.

All problems under the bridge and in the main cave were bone dry.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on March 30, 2013, 12:13:59 pm
Went yesterday, Robert Duvall area is wet and seeping. Under the bridge area is all soaking. Main cave is OK. Almost completely dry. The odd hold is wet though.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: joble on April 12, 2013, 05:38:43 pm
Anyone know how the cave is holding out, has the temperature increase screwed it atall?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Nike Air on April 12, 2013, 08:18:13 pm
was soaked with condensation/foggy stuff this morning, may be ok for tomorrow as sun did peep out and a breeze picked up....
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: psab on April 22, 2013, 03:48:54 pm
All dry today, including UTB area.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 20, 2013, 02:25:48 pm
Has anyone been over the weekend? Wondering on conditions for the new low start into pantys and be ruthless. Cheers!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Ally Smith on May 20, 2013, 04:03:43 pm
I went for a wander up to devil's gorge on saturday evening, although only to look at the routes really (gopping, don't bother) but i did have a quick feel of the holds on the bouldering section. Not 100% shite, but still pretty dire. Maybe improved with the good weather yesterday?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: andy popp on June 14, 2013, 03:58:38 pm
Are either Pantymwyn or Ruthin likely to be in this weekend?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Pantontino on June 14, 2013, 06:06:14 pm
I was wondering just the same. Saturday looks a bit showery, but might head over that way on Sunday.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: john mc c on June 14, 2013, 08:08:01 pm
Cave was good last night, everything dry, should be OK even with the showers. UTB was just about dry, not sure if it will stay that way though.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: andy popp on June 15, 2013, 10:45:10 am
The dark side suggests you need to ask for permission to climb at Ruthin; is that still the case and is it normally granted?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on June 15, 2013, 11:06:00 am
No I don't think so. Just make sure you park on the main road
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on July 25, 2013, 11:12:45 am
Anyone been in the last few days? Cheers
Title: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: nickreyner on August 02, 2013, 09:54:52 pm
Any update on conditions? Will be dry tomorrow
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on August 03, 2013, 12:35:03 am
Any update on conditions? Will be dry tomorrow

The gorge itself had condensed and was goping on Thursday after Wednesday's down pour. No update since then though.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: stvey1987 on August 11, 2013, 08:58:32 pm
I was there today from 12 till mid afternoon. All the bouldering was dry/ fine. The routes round the corner had plenty of folk milling round too so that must also have been in condition too!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: john mc c on September 28, 2013, 09:58:07 pm
Good nick at the moment including UTB area.

One thing not good is the levels of chalk in places though, completely caked on in some area's to a stupid extent ( particularly firestarter, embers and panty's ) and also with the seemingly now obligatory foot long tickmarks to go along with the chalk cake.

Please take care of the place, and brush up after you've finished. All the chalk doesn't help when the place condenses as it takes longer to dry ( and also just looks a right state ).

Cheers. 
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on October 01, 2013, 12:53:54 pm
Going to go bouldering there this eve if anyone's keen?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: andy popp on October 22, 2013, 07:27:07 am
Any chance Pantymwyn bouldering will be dry Thurs? Or Ruthin for that matter.
?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tedj234 on October 31, 2013, 05:21:09 pm
Climbable today but a few holds needed toweling dry.

Unfortunately managed to knock off a couple of large blocks from the Be Ruthless/Pantys Down starting hole. Many apologies (but in my defence they appear to have been held on with just mud!) Doesn't affect the stand starts but I think it might make the sitters a little more tricky. Blocks just to the left of the hole under the overhang.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on October 31, 2013, 05:41:01 pm
They've been wobbling for a while
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Owen on November 05, 2013, 08:19:34 am
All blocks fallen out now. Worked out some beta for the sit downs climbing the riht hand side of the cwve into the two finger pocket with the left. Little bit harder but not a full grade. Think it climbs a lot better though
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: wintermute on December 13, 2013, 09:04:56 am
What are the chances of dryness on the weekend?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: john mc c on December 15, 2013, 05:11:10 pm
Absolutely everything 100% dry today, routes, UTB wall, Duvall wall and the cave. Quite amazing for this time of year.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on December 15, 2013, 07:31:27 pm
Absolutely everything 100% dry today, routes, UTB wall, Duvall wall and the cave. Quite amazing for this time of year.

Cheers John, really good to know!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on December 15, 2013, 07:50:31 pm
Everything so dry on the lime. Orme, Panty, Gop....
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: joe dobson on December 28, 2013, 03:19:08 pm
only recently heard about this place, tried to find a topo and only seen bits and pieces around. Without being to much of a pain does anyone have any beta, ie for parking, directions to the crag from parking etc as I can't seem to find any complete stuff! Thanks in advance  :)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on December 28, 2013, 04:13:46 pm
It's in Boulder Britain
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: joe dobson on December 28, 2013, 05:39:55 pm
cool thanks doylo
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: peewee on December 28, 2013, 08:47:33 pm
Anybody know if it's dry there ATM? Cheers.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: joe dobson on January 05, 2014, 08:09:19 pm
anyone know what the conditions are like at the moment? Reckon its worth a punt tomorrow?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on January 05, 2014, 08:10:48 pm
I'm not sure id drive too far without a report. Been a lot of rain
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: joe dobson on January 05, 2014, 08:19:02 pm
thats what I'm thinking; unsure whether I should sack tomorrow off, find somewhere with a big roof to climb or go sit beneath tourniquet at kentmere for an a few hours  :-\
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on January 05, 2014, 09:50:47 pm
thats what I'm thinking; unsure whether I should sack tomorrow off, find somewhere with a big roof to climb or go sit beneath tourniquet at kentmere for an a few hours  :-\

I'd be very suprised if it was day, hammering it down here in Wrexham and has been all day/night.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on January 12, 2014, 08:47:35 pm
Anyone know if it's dry at the moment?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: john mc c on February 22, 2014, 06:11:25 pm
Good today. All of the cave dry.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Three Nine on March 02, 2014, 08:22:25 pm
How we looking? Mite it be worth a hit on tues or wed?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on March 02, 2014, 08:37:40 pm
Yes
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Three Nine on March 02, 2014, 08:43:21 pm
Kick ass  :-*
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: john mc c on March 02, 2014, 09:54:09 pm
Was down today. Cave in good nick and UTB wall pretty good too. So long as it stays breezy should be fine early/mid week.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Reprobate_Rob on March 13, 2014, 10:21:53 am
All blocks fallen out now. Worked out some beta for the sit downs climbing the riht hand side of the cwve into the two finger pocket with the left. Little bit harder but not a full grade. Think it climbs a lot better though

Went down last night and couldn't figure this out.... what holds are you using/starting on?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: abarro81 on March 13, 2014, 10:34:34 am
Myself and Stu did this on sun. After I spent ages fumbling with shit methods Stu found an easy one - pull on both hands where I guess blocks used to be, lf in big toe hook underneath, rf out right on something. Rh to pinch, lh to undercut start hold of stand, rf high and take out toe hook.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: john mc c on March 14, 2014, 11:31:37 pm
Guess Stu found the tourist start then?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: abarro81 on March 14, 2014, 11:33:14 pm
Huh?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: john mc c on March 14, 2014, 11:40:39 pm
Undercuts well below the main 'lip'. A nice sequence all ways from here.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on March 15, 2014, 07:54:27 am
The sequence is really good now. Two positive undercuts, slap over with left to backhand guppy thing. Right toe in big notch, right hand to pinchy thing. Left heel over hand, left hand to positive pocket. Right foot lock high into hole, go again with left for big chipped pocket.you don't need to go into the starting undercut in the hole with this sequence.  That sunset sit into the full traverse would be pretty meaty.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on March 19, 2014, 08:13:33 pm
The sequence is really good now. Two positive undercuts, slap over with left to backhand guppy thing. Right toe in big notch, right hand to pinchy thing. Left heel over hand, left hand to positive pocket. Right foot lock high into hole, go again with left for big chipped pocket.you don't need to go into the starting undercut in the hole with this sequence.  That sunset sit into the full traverse would be pretty meaty.

One of the positive starting undercuts completely blew into pieces last night... Looks like it's back to starting on the holds just after the undercuts.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: fatneck on May 12, 2014, 07:57:41 am
Skinny Dog was here on Saturday and reports primo conditions despite the rain...
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Ally Smith on May 28, 2014, 11:42:54 am
Seepage starting to come through and even a bit of condensation on Monday night. Not completely fubar, but not particularly pleasant!

Anyone go down more recently?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: rossydoodle61 on September 23, 2014, 09:06:47 am
Has anyone been here recently? Thinking of going tomorrow but not sure what condition it'll be in. I seem to remember that every time I went last year it seemed to be fairly foolproof conditions-wise.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on September 23, 2014, 09:24:03 am
Mint yesterday including the gorge wall
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: JohnM on September 23, 2014, 10:01:10 am
Time for GC extension to go down then!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Richie Crouch on September 23, 2014, 10:08:22 am
 :popcorn:  :worms:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Ally Smith on September 23, 2014, 10:50:32 am
Time for GC extension to go down then!

Hear hear!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on September 23, 2014, 12:14:55 pm
The problems on the Under the Bridge wall deserve more attention. Videod them yesterday http://youtu.be/NIk6Rt-eBVY (http://youtu.be/NIk6Rt-eBVY)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: rossydoodle61 on September 24, 2014, 06:30:25 pm
Just to confirm, everything was indeed mint again today and Under the Bridge looks superb.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on October 08, 2014, 01:17:33 pm
The gorge was in the best nick I've ever seen it on Sunday. UTB wall was perfect everywhere and Doylo's additions/documentations well worth doing.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on October 08, 2014, 01:40:34 pm
Can I just say that the only new one I did was UTB SS . The others have all been done before
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Monolith on October 08, 2014, 02:34:53 pm
'Addition' sorry maestro.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on October 17, 2014, 07:40:16 pm
Hideous conditions today. Routes are condensed/seeping, under the bridge area is actually dripping wet. The main bouldering cave was really damp and it felt really humid down there.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on October 17, 2014, 07:59:31 pm
The route projects survive another year.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: petejh on October 18, 2014, 05:58:52 pm
 :shit: :shit: :shit:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on October 18, 2014, 07:09:12 pm
But for how many more years? (Decades...) :worms:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Nike Air on February 22, 2015, 08:57:01 am
Has anyone been very recently, wondering what the left hand side of the main cave is like?
Thanks :)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: connorod on March 27, 2015, 08:19:08 am
Any news on the conditions? Thinking of heading up on the weekend


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on April 27, 2015, 11:57:50 am
Anyone know if the routes are dry? Cheers
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on May 06, 2015, 08:28:27 pm
This is a good little problem done last  year by Mark Riley.
http://youtu.be/uCxR36xifKg (http://youtu.be/uCxR36xifKg)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: andy popp on May 31, 2015, 08:01:37 pm
Anyone know if Under the Bridge is dry?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on May 31, 2015, 08:09:05 pm
It's the driest problem on that wall so I expect so. Will probably condense in there when this predicted heatwave hits....
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on May 31, 2015, 09:40:03 pm
It's the driest problem on that wall so I expect so. Will probably condense in there when this predicted heatwave hits....

Heatwave??
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: andy popp on June 02, 2015, 04:24:54 pm
For what it's worth, everything seemed dry yesterday - despite the pouring rain and howling wind.

Btw, is it possible to approach from the bottom, along the river, rather than from above?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on June 02, 2015, 08:04:11 pm
It's about 20 minutes walk from Loggerheads. Think you can come the other way parking near Cilcain but haven't done this. In short yes but it takes longer.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: petejh on June 27, 2015, 09:32:38 pm
Popped in on Friday on the way home - all routes are dry as is Under the Bridge bouldering.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Seb on July 08, 2015, 04:49:35 pm
Any news?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: JoeMills on September 14, 2015, 05:10:06 pm
How's the bouldering looking? Anyone been recently?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on September 14, 2015, 05:42:15 pm
Should be mint.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Ali on September 14, 2015, 08:08:00 pm
The routes were in very good condition yesterday (all dry). Don't know if that gives any clue as to how the bouldering is likely to be?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on September 14, 2015, 08:53:44 pm
Mint
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: James Malloch on January 21, 2016, 11:37:59 am
Does anyone have an idea how well the bouldering holds up here in regards to the recent weather?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on January 21, 2016, 12:02:52 pm
Does anyone have an idea how well the bouldering holds up here in regards to the recent weather?

I'm pretty sure it would be dry. It's been dry here for the last couple of days and seepage isn't a big issue.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: James Malloch on January 21, 2016, 12:33:04 pm
Cheers Luke!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Falling Down on March 31, 2016, 05:57:42 pm
Main section still fenced off and access restricted.  I managed a few eliminates between damp sections on the wall with Robert Duval on but that looks like it'll dry out soon if this dry spell continues.  Routes and bouldering in the gorge wet.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on April 09, 2016, 05:14:43 pm
They're going to install a grid at the back of the cave in July. Hopefully it won't affect the climbing, it's going as far back as possible. The rangers have asked if people can not climb on the cave section until then.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Sidehaas on June 13, 2016, 09:38:22 am
Does anyone know whether Pantymwyn or Tremeirchion are better bets today/this week?
I'm guessing the cave is still off limits. Never been to either venue before.
Thanks!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on June 13, 2016, 01:07:10 pm
I've not heard any reports of the Gorge being dry this year yet. The cave is blocked off AFAIK. Tremeirchion should be fine especially as it's cooled down a bit.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: psab on August 11, 2016, 04:46:22 pm
Dry and fenceless
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Kingy on August 11, 2016, 06:39:35 pm
 :bounce: :clap2: :great:
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on August 11, 2016, 11:47:06 pm
The routes were condensed out this evening and were not even worth getting on.

The bouldering was a bit damp but dry-able. The fence has gone, the new fence placed by the council to block off the cave is well back and doesn't effect any of the Ruthless/Panties sit starts.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Wood FT on August 12, 2016, 08:33:55 am
The routes were condensed out this evening and were not even worth getting on.

Is that kind of gop out predictable? Does it happen when the temps suddenly drop as well as when they spike? Went for the first time last weekend, impressed, but long way to go for a greasey session.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on August 12, 2016, 08:47:19 am
The place is a nightmare for conditions, It is kinda predictable. The temps going up seem to have the worst effect. Annoyingly although it was windy yesterday it wasn't getting in the Gorge itself, I have yet to figure out which wind direction helps.

It's annoying enough being local so I can see why not many travel for it. The routes are amazing though and most of the routes would be classics (and polished!) if they were at somewhere like Kilnsey.

The routes on the right hand side escape most of the condensing as they're further away from the cold big cave so there's always a back up. There's a really good 7a+ (Bananas and Coffee) which always seems to be dry and some good links from it a 7b+ direct start and a 7c alternative finish which stay dry too.

Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Wood FT on August 12, 2016, 05:00:17 pm
The place is a nightmare for conditions, It is kinda predictable. The temps going up seem to have the worst effect. Annoyingly although it was windy yesterday it wasn't getting in the Gorge itself, I have yet to figure out which wind direction helps.

It's annoying enough being local so I can see why not many travel for it. The routes are amazing though and most of the routes would be classics (and polished!) if they were at somewhere like Kilnsey.

The routes on the right hand side escape most of the condensing as they're further away from the cold big cave so there's always a back up. There's a really good 7a+ (Bananas and Coffee) which always seems to be dry and some good links from it a 7b+ direct start and a 7c alternative finish which stay dry too.

yeah did that one but keen for the classics on the left, the rock looks stunning. Will always keep it in mind but the conditions do seem like a peck
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on August 12, 2016, 08:46:18 pm
To add to the bizarre conditions it's apparently in good nick again today!

I've posted this on Facebook already but just a heads up that the 2nd and 3rd bolts on Grand Canyon are in a poor state, both the bolts (not just the hangers) wobble so take care!
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Wood FT on August 12, 2016, 11:18:49 pm
To add to the bizarre conditions it's apparently in good nick again today!

I've posted this on Facebook already but just a heads up that the 2nd and 3rd bolts on Grand Canyon are in a poor state, both the bolts (not just the hangers) wobble so take care!

yep saw some strange sling set up last week
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: petejh on August 13, 2016, 10:47:36 am
To add to the bizarre conditions it's apparently in good nick again today!

I've posted this on Facebook already but just a heads up that the 2nd and 3rd bolts on Grand Canyon are in a poor state, both the bolts (not just the hangers) wobble so take care!

You're not supposed to fall on them!  ::)
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on March 09, 2017, 10:44:18 am
Anyone been lately? Any idea how the main bouldering area is holding up?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Joe Lawson on March 17, 2017, 08:08:53 am
Any knowledge on what the connies might be like this weekend? Routes and bouldering?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: fatneck on March 17, 2017, 08:15:30 am
O-Dog McTreebeard reported decent connies yesterday. Lot of rain about today and tomorrow though?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on March 17, 2017, 08:55:50 am
I was there last night and everything was dry, just the smallest of seepage on the odd hold but nothing major. Rain forecast today and tomorrow will probably bring some seepage in a few days but it's the driest it's been there in awhile. Under the Bridge area has dried out too. Possibly heading down on Sunday morning.

Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Joe Lawson on March 17, 2017, 06:33:07 pm
Nice one, cheers. Will bear that in mind.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on March 23, 2017, 02:35:28 pm
All the bouldering is dry at the moment.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on March 24, 2017, 08:46:02 am
Ignore my previous post, I went last night and as a result of the down pour on Wednesday the whole place is seeping like crazy.

Everything by Firestarter was dry and not really that effected.

Be Ruthless side was in terrible condition (think drying most of the holds between goes).

Under the Bridge area is now completely wet again.

Funny how much can change in just a day... dry weather yesterday and today should mean it'll probably have recovered a lot by Sat/Sun.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: rossydoodle61 on March 24, 2017, 11:22:25 am

Under the Bridge area is now completely wet again.


I meant to ask this at the time, but I completely forgot. A few months ago I was in the area and went down to Pantymwyn as I hadn't been there for ages.

It looked like there was some work going on by Under the Bridge as the ground had been dug up and there were loads of sandbags around.

Any idea what that was all about?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on March 25, 2017, 01:18:20 am

Any idea what that was all about?

Yeah, The bottom of the routes now have a walkway of paving slabs, doesn't effect the routes in anyway other than you will no longer have to stand in a foot of mud when belaying. I presume it's been put in to allow people to walk up to the big cave as it's quite touristy there in the summer.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Luke Owens on May 03, 2017, 12:52:56 am
Everything is dry, including routes
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: WillRobertson on May 15, 2017, 09:18:16 am
Long shot I know, but we're currently sat in a cafe in Betws Y Coed searching for somewhere to climb. Anyone with any idea how Panty is holding up? And if it's worth walking in through this pissing rain?

Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: petejh on May 15, 2017, 10:10:06 am
It isn't raining here in Deeside (close to the gorge). I'd guess the routes will be dry as they're overhanging and once they dry out after winter seepage it takes a lot of rain to get them wet again .. Should be dry stuff on the Orme too, wasn't raining on the coast when I left this morning..
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: WillRobertson on May 15, 2017, 03:34:18 pm
Cheers. All the bouldering seemed dry and in pretty good condition.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: tomtom on May 15, 2017, 07:29:06 pm
Always worth heading to the (west) coast if the weathers crap in Snowdonia.. Capel Curig gets 3m or rain a year, Aberdaron 0.874...
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: PipeSmoke on May 16, 2017, 09:34:28 am
How badly did it rain over night? Think it'll be a write off today ?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on June 25, 2017, 06:05:43 pm
Gorge is mint at the mo.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Coops_13 on July 14, 2017, 09:02:11 am
Latest reports? Seepage looking ok for the weekend? How dry does it stay in showery weather?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Doylo on July 14, 2017, 07:38:40 pm
Not too bad in showery weather.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Tommy on July 14, 2017, 10:36:19 pm
The bouldering round by Firestarter was perfect. The main gorge had some damp spots but overall looked pretty decent.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Coops_13 on July 17, 2017, 12:41:59 pm
All dry and in good condition yesterday
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Coops_13 on March 02, 2018, 08:52:11 am
Anyone been here recently, thinking of going on Sunday...
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Alex Smurthwaite on March 12, 2018, 08:30:55 am
Hows it looking currently? Thinking of heading over tomorrow
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: mr chaz on November 02, 2019, 08:02:31 pm
Any recent reports? Interested in main cave area tomorrow. Is it prone to seepage?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: The Shocker on November 01, 2022, 08:16:32 am
Any reports of seepage yet (it was still holding out early last week)?
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: Ally Smith on November 01, 2022, 08:47:11 am
Very condensed and dripping wet Saturday.

Maybe better today, Yetix was asking the same question last night.
Title: Re: Pantymwyn conditions
Post by: The Shocker on April 18, 2023, 07:37:26 pm
Anyone visited recently? Any condition reports welcome.
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