UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Fiend on March 31, 2004, 09:48:05 am

Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 31, 2004, 09:48:05 am
There you go dave & Bubba.

One for starters...

(http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/ticks1.jpg)

...the pocket tick mark being particularly essential as it's not visible from The Stride or anything  :roll:

BRUSH THEM OFF YOU FUCKERS (OR DON'T DO IT IN THE FIRST PLACE).
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jonP on March 31, 2004, 09:55:10 am
I'd like to nominate myself:

(http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/photos/brimham__the_anchor.2.jpg)

What a twat!

And Andy Swann:

(http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/photos/deer_gallows__kojak.jpg)

He shouldn't be allowed on the rock!

I can't see why covering holds in chalk is fine, but drawing a line in chalk is an unforgivable sin.  Someone please explain.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bubba on March 31, 2004, 09:55:24 am
(in reply to Fiends post) :: Weird - why do you hell would anyone need tick marks on the starting holds and the huge jug on the arete  :?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on March 31, 2004, 09:59:20 am
Quote from: "jonP"

I can't see why covering holds in chalk is fine, but drawing a line in chalk is an unforgivable sin.  Someone please explain.


its cos for the most parts its just totally unnecessary and lazy, especially if no attempt has been made to brush them off. also a distinct bright white line stands out to the casual observer far more than a softer whiteish area of chalk.

i know we can't post up bleau.info photos, but you need to see this:

http://bleau.info/images/honorez/aerodynamite.jpg
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bubba on March 31, 2004, 10:02:49 am
Quote from: "jonP"
I can't see why covering holds in chalk is fine, but drawing a line in chalk is an unforgivable sin.  Someone please explain.

It's all about where you draw the line (ho ho ho!):

On some problems, a tick mark is useful where you've got a hard to hit hold. That's not the issue - the problem is:

- often they are vastly over the top; huge double lines pointing to holds that often are pretty obvious to see anyway.
- you don't need them on the obvious starting handholds to problems
- but, the main issue is that it takes a few seconds to brush them off afterwards, leaving a nice clean problem for the next person. The same goes for vast amounts of chalk.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on March 31, 2004, 10:08:58 am
i've found its actually very difficult to brush off the big tickmarks you see, where the person has used a big chunk of chalk to draw the line cos it grind the chalk into the grain of the rock and the lichen, and you're doing extremely well if you can remove it.

much better to just indicate a blind hold with say a light dab of chalk from your finger or chalkball, especially useful in low light, and is easy to brush off.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on March 31, 2004, 10:09:16 am
because a hold wi chalk on is pleasin to the eye n a big tick is not. nowt against tick marks per se but when they're left they look like someones bin defacin the rock. they also make the climber look like a punter. i personally can't look at a photo with tick marks n think that the prob looks nice. i am also aware that u n andy r no punters, so no pun (ter intended)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: hongkongstuey on March 31, 2004, 10:10:29 am
Quote from: "dave"
http://bleau.info/images/honorez/aerodynamite.jpg


thats comical
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 31, 2004, 10:13:23 am
Not my tick marks, but would have been hard to brush off from ground. Not even on best bit of the top, so useless. Maybe they were training and wanted to grab the shit bit  :roll:

(http://server6.uploadit.org/files/alincoln-DSCF0058.JPG)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on March 31, 2004, 10:15:42 am
she looks like she's goin to use 6 holds more than necessary.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on March 31, 2004, 10:19:06 am
not u adam, the link.  :wink:
should be some good tick shots of hurricane out there?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on March 31, 2004, 10:19:40 am
i thought it was a him (the cuvier one), but sometimes it can be hard to tell (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=2338).
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 31, 2004, 11:16:52 am
Hard to tell?? That's clearly a girl. At least I've never seen a man with such a shapely arse :up:

Mind you, I guess there aren't many that good :wink:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Big Frank on March 31, 2004, 11:23:25 am
Quote from: "Fiend"
There you go dave & Bubba.

One for starters...

(http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/ticks1.jpg)

...the pocket tick mark being particularly essential as it's not visible from The Stride or anything  :roll:

BRUSH THEM OFF YOU FUCKERS (OR DON'T DO IT IN THE FIRST PLACE).


Fiend you posted that photo on RT ages ago!

I'll get you a Policemans Helmet.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 31, 2004, 01:07:49 pm
Ticks are all very well, but can lead to confusion over exactly which foot to use. :wink:

(http://www.adamlongphotography.co.uk/portpage/climb/idiot.jpg)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on March 31, 2004, 01:45:21 pm
was at cuba last night and went up to try walk on by (again :roll: ) - some bell end had tick marked the fuck out of every little foothold and put a huge white football sized circle of chalk on and around every handhold. sorry i have no photogenical evidence.

the appeal is that you can't see the holds - it's not the same when you can.

tossers
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Greg C on March 31, 2004, 02:00:05 pm
Cuba! Thats a long way for an evenings action  :D
Title: tick marks
Post by: al on March 31, 2004, 02:15:51 pm
if you really need to mark the holds on a problem then use little strips of finger tape, which then can be pulled after your effort - this happens a lot at camp 4 - i remeber jerry doing this when he was trying dominator and it was critical to see the middle edge
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bubba on March 31, 2004, 02:19:03 pm
The finger tape idea is a good one....except for then loads of people just leave the spent tape underneath the problem instead of on it.

Well, they *might* not, but judging by the amount of finger tape / chalk balls that get junked at the crag, it's a big possibility.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on March 31, 2004, 02:29:22 pm
Quote from: "Greg Chapman"
Cuba! Thats a long way for an evenings action  :D


i get around...
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: al on March 31, 2004, 03:53:30 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
The finger tape idea is a good one....except for then loads of people just leave the spent tape underneath the problem instead of on it.

Well, they *might* not, but judging by the amount of finger tape / chalk balls that get junked at the crag, it's a big possibility.
\


oops - good point
Title: fishsticks
Post by: erm, sam on March 31, 2004, 04:45:22 pm
This issue seems to have become a problem relativly recently. I may be wrong, but even 1 year ago I don't think I ever noticed many tick marks, or heard about them in polite conversation.. What was the pivitol tipping point for this behavior?
I am aware of the general augument that wall climbers introduced to the outdoors might have a different expectation of hold visability. But I am not convinced that this group have been taking to the outdoors at an especially greater rate than over the preceding 4 years, for instance.
So what happened? How has this meme propagated so efficiently?
Certainly the recent tales of holds with entire circles around them and stating holds being ticked have only become common of late and point to the idea of ticking behavior taking hold at orders of magnitude greater levels than earlier.
Crop circles have gone quiet over the last few years. I propose that the artisitcally driven aliens behind that endevour have found a new form of self expression.
I am not convinced that the hyper ticking of eg. the cratcliffe arete is as artistcally valid as the wiltshire cornfields, but who am I to judge.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: account_inactive on March 31, 2004, 05:54:30 pm
Apart from the parents I blame videos.  All that violence and stuff warps the minds of these young ruffiens.   :oldgit:
Seriously though, I can think of a few vids that have excessive tick marks.  Monkey see monkey do. :temptation:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 31, 2004, 07:13:16 pm
I go for the 'negative' tick myself. Simply gozzle spit all over yer toothbrush, then use it to clean a line through the chalk surrounding the hold. Works a treat, and the end result is less chalk on the rock :wink:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 31, 2004, 09:08:22 pm
Quote
i thought it was a him (the cuvier one), but sometimes it can be hard to tell.


Shouldn't that be in the Fit Birds Who Go Climbing thread?? :wink:

Quote
much better to just indicate a blind hold with say a light dab of chalk from your finger or chalkball, especially useful in low light, and is easy to brush off.


Yer that's what we do, all about the light finger dab rather than the heavy chalked line.



P.S. FH stay away from my helmet :?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: ian h on March 31, 2004, 09:23:41 pm
if i have to mark anything i find that a dot of chalk pushed on with the thumb works just as well if positioned correctly. and much easier to get rid of when your finished
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 20, 2004, 07:15:48 pm
I think this is what we'all is railin against.
The mighty nine shows his displeasure at boybage.
(http://www.adamlongphotography.co.uk/portpage/climb/donkey.jpg)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: clm on April 20, 2004, 08:56:10 pm
I saw a guy using tip ex at minus ten.  :shock: he was french.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on April 20, 2004, 11:32:13 pm
fiddy pennells looks quite rightly a bit pissed there - thats fucking horrendous. don't people turn round when leaving the crag and see what shit they've left?

any idea who did it?

i got some snaps of badass tickmarks in font, i can post up of theres a demand.....
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tommytwotone on April 21, 2004, 08:43:50 am
...come on then Dave, get your ticks out for the lads... :roll:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on April 21, 2004, 11:29:33 am
yeah, false promises are no good, dave :lol:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on April 21, 2004, 11:30:32 am
i'll post em up when i get home, wiggaz.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on May 25, 2004, 09:37:06 am
just to follow this up, my tickmark phtots didn't come out very well so i didn't post them.

found this on tinternet though:

(http://www.ropeless.de/upload/bilder/563_g_Amras1.jpg)

david blunkett climbs 7c+
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on May 25, 2004, 09:45:28 am
that problem looks awesome. any ideas dave? like wot hold would u use after the first right hand sloper?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on May 25, 2004, 09:48:31 am
its summert in germany. i think theres a hold on the top somewhere.....
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy B on May 25, 2004, 04:52:40 pm
I reckon scrubbing off tick marks is good for your karma.

I was having a lacklustre session at Back Bowden on Wednesday, so spent an hour wandering round cleaning loads of tick marks off the problems (that never get washed off because of the steepness), then miraculously got a burst of enthusiasm and went on to have a crackin night and left the crag after dark (always a good sign).

I think another hour of brushing would have prevented me from tooling my arm again too!
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bubba on June 07, 2004, 07:04:39 pm
Not exactly hall of shame material, but it's hardly helpful for Planetfear.com to  recommend putting tick marks on the top out of Strapiombante, is it?

(http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/training/beta/strap-2.jpg)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Kim on June 07, 2004, 07:31:39 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
Not exactly hall of shame material, but it's hardly helpful for Planetfear.com to  recommend putting tick marks on the top out of Strapiombante, is it?


good to see they're maintaining that traditional british ground-up ethic ain't it....
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on June 08, 2004, 09:34:29 am
oh my god.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jimbo on June 08, 2004, 09:41:19 am
White spray paint works better as it does'nt get washed off in bad weather. word.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on June 20, 2004, 11:24:02 pm
hmm, i wonder where my knee goes again?  :?  :D
(http://www.ukbouldering.com/media/images/lowRider02.jpg)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on June 21, 2004, 08:19:05 am
Bastard! Knew i should have photoshopped those pics. To be fair i was washing all the chalk off the prob with water after trying it (primarily 'cos i was paranoid someone would spot the line and steal it before i got the FA)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on June 21, 2004, 08:55:02 am
what the fuck shoes are them lovejoy?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on June 21, 2004, 09:09:45 am
Some crazy-ass things called Rock Pillars, had to buy them when in NZ as there was nothing better. They where quite good as it goes. Lowrider trashed the tops and the heels tho.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on June 21, 2004, 10:34:58 am
he has to keep gettin the name of the prob in, n the fact that it was a first ascent. look at me!  :soapbox:  :wink:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on June 21, 2004, 10:53:06 am
You never know, if i keep banging on about it for long enough someone might actually take a day out of their busy Plantation/Burbage schedule and give it a go.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on June 21, 2004, 11:44:47 am
I have a friend who walked along and saw it recently and said it was one of the most inspiring problems he'd seen.

Then again he has quite esoteric tastes and only likes burly grit sloper problems  :P
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on June 21, 2004, 01:05:12 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
You never know, if i keep banging on about it for long enough someone might actually take a day out of their busy Plantation/Burbage schedule and give it a go.


doubt it, you know what they're like  :twisted:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Rhys on June 27, 2004, 05:21:19 pm
Shocking amount of chalk in this picture:

http://www.8a.nu/cgi-bin/scorecard/pics/presentation/resize/resize1076547011_2214.JPG

 :shock:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jonP on July 29, 2004, 09:53:16 pm
People shouldn't be allowed to get away with this kind of desecration.

(http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/photos/brimham__boat_rock_arete.2.jpg)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bubba on July 29, 2004, 09:55:20 pm
Is Big Frank losing his eyesight?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on July 29, 2004, 09:55:39 pm
i hear stevie wonder did that problem without tickmarks.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jonP on July 30, 2004, 08:46:09 am
We had great fun drawing massive long tick marks and numbering the holds on Alien Nation, but unfortunately they didn't show up on the photos very well.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Big Frank on July 30, 2004, 09:07:57 am
Quote from: "Bubba"
Is Big Frank losing his eyesight?


Hang on a minute you lot, I think you should be asking the tit mark mystro him self about what you see.
 :oldgit:



The evidence for the prosecution looks good but it's not enough to convict me! :chase:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on August 11, 2004, 10:16:47 pm
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0PgDhAswSR09I*yy!vHcNf2agFowv7ujpx9tfJlzt43ac3hx2b5A5gGiLkPz!eu28jsyZseOQFkYwGj2Zm1CItP2pPmsPnMhS/donky.jpg?dc=4675484436396250538)
Anyone whose been to the tor recently will recognize these little beauties. These have been adorning Hubble for a good month now. I've managed to track down the owner as a Mr Markus Bock no-less, I shit you not!  :lol:  :lol:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bubba on August 11, 2004, 11:22:55 pm
Wonder if Mr Gaskin's needed tickmarks that big  :D  :lol:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on August 12, 2004, 12:08:06 am
Found at the tor:

One white cane
One pair dark glasses
One Labrador Golden Retriever
One stevie wonder LP.

name inscribed on cane: "M B".

PM me with decription to return.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jonP on August 12, 2004, 09:00:19 am
How would a tick mark help if you're totally blind?  Surely some kind of bleeper would be more appropriate.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on August 12, 2004, 09:06:06 am
i wager even blind people would be able to see those.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bubba on August 12, 2004, 09:08:50 am
You could have like brialle marks or something, but then i'm thinking that if you're blind, hubble probably isn't on your list.

Anyone been on Sheffield dryslope and seen that blind woman skiing - respect is due.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tommytwotone on August 12, 2004, 09:17:35 am
Quote
How would a tick mark help if you're totally blind? Surely some kind of bleeper would be more appropriate.


...or holds with little bells in them?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on August 12, 2004, 09:23:34 pm
Where I worked in the US was the ski centre for the NSCD (National Sports Centre for the Disabled). I would have blind skiers getting on my chairllift on a daily basis, massive respect to them, as well as the sit skiers and the guys skiing on one leg. One guy could get on our fixed grip lift (ie ones that dont slow down as they enter the terminal) without us needing to slow it down. He used to go in the terrain park, ride in trees and the half pipe too.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jonP on August 22, 2004, 06:50:53 pm
(http://northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/photos/Gallery/northumberland/monkearl.jpg)

Andrew Earl on Monk Life.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on August 23, 2004, 09:43:05 am
weird picture, looks like it's photoshopped really badly. climber n rock have been put together at a moments notice
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: hongkongstuey on August 23, 2004, 10:55:03 am
is it just me or does his left arm look 'wrong', for want of a better word (all short and stumpy like) too
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on August 23, 2004, 11:36:24 am
yeah, looks like quarto, out of total recall :whip:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on August 26, 2004, 09:43:17 am
bad tickmark here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=17722

i've been on that thing and a tickmark there is LAME. :roll:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on October 20, 2004, 11:46:05 am
found this:

(http://bleau.info/images/gueguen/rencontre_thierry.jpg)

nice markage. not sure if those are tickmarks of it a large bear slapped for the hold with claws  :shock:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on October 20, 2004, 11:48:14 am
thats pretty bad
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bubba on October 20, 2004, 11:53:46 am
Freddy Kruger goes bouldering  :lol:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: clm on March 05, 2005, 09:24:13 pm
EXPLAIN YOUR SELF MR. CHAPMAN :evil:

(http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/sei/s/1284/393.jpg)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 05, 2005, 11:06:51 pm
Looks like a crying face to me...:(
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: ned on March 05, 2005, 11:13:03 pm
(http://northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/photos/Gallery/northumberland/monkearl.jpg)

how did he get the tick marks there in the first place!
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: account_inactive on March 05, 2005, 11:13:56 pm
I assume that Greg had the sense to rub them off when he finished (oh er missus)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Paul B on March 06, 2005, 06:58:08 pm
theres a cragx style wooden ladder kicking about in the bushes at kyloe in..
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on July 04, 2005, 10:24:27 pm
(http://bleau.info/images/montrouget/coupdepatte.jpg)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on July 05, 2005, 09:32:14 am
there was once a massive three point tick mark on directissima, brownstones. each point was 1.5m long and the centre was ythe left hand slot that most people only use for feet, when you can see it fine.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: vivahate on July 05, 2005, 07:19:43 pm
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"

(http://server6.uploadit.org/files/alincoln-DSCF0058.JPG)


 what problem is that? looks nice
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 05, 2005, 07:30:57 pm
Ange naif at 95.2, font. Much higher than it looks, and for the full tick the heel out left is banned. Not a very nice crimp either, font has much better to offer.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on July 05, 2005, 08:09:37 pm
crimp busted my tip open after 3 goes - damn straight. like JB sez 7c or + for a bad blinkers sequence, 7b/+ for the pictured heel ting. not feally an amazing problem but a good one to never have to try again.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on July 05, 2005, 08:34:24 pm
The 7a version is good though (haven't tried the crimp approach)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on July 05, 2005, 08:44:06 pm
ain't a wigga gotta use the crimp on the 7a+ version, only with the other hand?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Duma on July 05, 2005, 08:45:16 pm
best sequence is to continue walking past 95.2, which is overcrowded and badly eroded, to gros sablons and do some class probs (bibop, la liberte, l'oeil de cyclone) in a stunning setting probably without a soul about
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on July 05, 2005, 08:51:56 pm
good point, conversely just stay off the shit "gotta do" ticks n then ask yourself why in the name of all that's holy is le yaniro thing given 6c+/7a when in reality it's gotta be 7c
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Paz on July 07, 2005, 03:49:01 pm
I think you must have to dislocate your hip to static that.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Control freak on August 17, 2005, 08:41:32 pm
Just been out to Almscliffe this afternoon and was greated by this on the Keel (sorry, Fin)!!

(http://usera.imagecave.com/nick_fletcher/climbing/Picture30-copy.jpg)

I mean, how blind do you have to be not to be able to see that pocket from 18 inches away! And just to finish it off, Matts roof had a similar sized mark pointing out the obvious crimp. Maybe this guy had a photographer over at Caley or something and he needed directing to the correct holds.

Whoever did this, get some glasses or stop climbing. Youre ruining the place
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: clm on August 17, 2005, 08:47:23 pm
you did well holding that camera still shakerman. :wink:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on August 17, 2005, 09:48:16 pm
should have gone to specsavers.

reminds me of the clockface you always see on aerodynamite.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on August 18, 2005, 08:49:48 am
The two huge lines to the top holds on Matt's were there on tuesday as well.  The worst i've seen recently is the overchalking of DWR left hand since it appeared on yorkshiregrit - it seem someone has to have 4" diameter chalk cirles around all of the crimps to make it possible.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on August 18, 2005, 10:44:56 am
Is it just me, or do these ludicrous tick marks almost invariably appear on extremely bloody obvious holds that are already drenched in some much chalk they're visible from outer space anyway??
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Control freak on August 18, 2005, 01:13:33 pm
Quote from: "clm"
you did well holding that camera still shakerman. :wink:


We'll see who's doing the shaking at about 5pm on saturday. Ive heard youre speach is going to be really really funny. The anticipation is killing me..
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 18, 2005, 01:42:43 pm
:lol: hope you're going to walk that fine line between humour and offence clm...
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: clm on August 19, 2005, 12:59:48 pm
fuck off you cunt....ha ha
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on August 20, 2005, 07:01:05 pm
Fiend, If you think the tick marks at font were bad, you should see em at magic wood. The euro's love it
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cowboyhat on August 23, 2005, 04:04:11 pm
Go on Gym, tell us about the problem with the tick mark in the wrong place (the worst part of the hold). Whats it called again? How hard was it...?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on August 25, 2005, 01:55:57 pm
err... I don't know what your talking about



pirajna, 7c+
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on August 25, 2005, 02:30:12 pm
Quote
Go on Gym


 :lol:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Carnage on August 26, 2005, 07:33:29 am
Hey Control Freak - Have you moved to Cliche-beaches yet? If so, give us a shout if you want the tour.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on September 11, 2005, 09:55:03 pm
a bunch of spaniards left these for me to clean up today at curbar:

(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10003/tickmarks_gorilla.jpg)

these were like crosstown traffic - THICK. I needed a bucket and spade to shift them without filling up the pit. Thanks hombres.

on the not of the pit, some pillock put a pointy monitor-sized block under where you land off hurricane (why?) that i had to move and also i swear that block behind GW is further away from the backwall than it used to. might just me my imagination. why do people feel the need to fucking shift rocks about?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on September 12, 2005, 08:08:18 am
Cheatstones?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on September 12, 2005, 08:59:55 am
Quote from: "dave"
why do people feel the need to fucking shift rocks about?

Isn't it obvious?
(http://photos14.flickr.com/13991358_9deb608949_m.jpg)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: saltbeef on September 12, 2005, 09:11:00 am
:lol:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on September 13, 2005, 10:58:36 pm
http://img.ukclimbing.com/i/33101.jpg

On the starting handholds? . . .. .
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on September 13, 2005, 11:03:25 pm
saw some foreigners leaving higgar yesterday and got to the crag to see one of the biggest tick marks ever on the top hold on the warm-up arete to the left of pooh. why?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Palomides on September 14, 2005, 08:57:12 am
Quote from: "Sloper"
http://img.ukclimbing.com/i/33101.jpg

On the starting handholds? . . .. .



I think this might be more viewable Slopes.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=33101
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on September 14, 2005, 05:23:28 pm
strangely enough the foreigners leaving higgar were spanish
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on September 14, 2005, 05:37:34 pm
Quote from: "a dense loner"
strangely enough the foreigners leaving higgar were spanish


a couple of dark beardy looking ones and a lass or two?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on September 14, 2005, 06:40:37 pm
that being them
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Duma on October 03, 2005, 09:54:27 am
From 8a.nu - Redpoint tactics

"4. Tick marks/prolonged quickdraws/brushing of holds
Mark your hand and foot holds with chalk where needed. If it's a complicated sequence you might even want to use L and R ti indicate which hand to use."

Oh dear. :roll:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: webbo on October 03, 2005, 12:41:58 pm
i find writing left and right on the back of my hands useful too.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Soxs on October 03, 2005, 09:54:33 pm
To be fair to 8a...... no wait a bit, who wrote that shizzle, if anyone i climb with did that on either a route or problem i won't call it cheating, i would insist on an iq test, dicks. :?:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Ru on October 03, 2005, 10:42:17 pm
Quote
i find writing left and right on the back of my hands useful too.


I like this idea a lot. All you need to do is then match up the R or L drawn next to the holds with the ones on the backs of your hands and hey presto, you arrive at the top, which just to be safe should be marked STOP.

The logical extention of this is to get someone to take photos of you on every move, which you can then stick on the rock in sequence, next to the holds, lest you get confused about what to do next.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Pantontino on October 03, 2005, 11:45:51 pm
I also like this idea a lot, but I think it needs further refinement.

Aside from the L and R labels, I reckon that the would-be red pointer should clearly label his forehead with the word: COCK written in waterproof marker pen (in case it rains or they break sweat), just so that there is no confusion should any sane people turn up at the crag and wonder what is going on.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jonboy on October 04, 2005, 12:47:29 am
:lol:
What about your feet..which 1 is left and which 1 goes...left? sh*t this is getting confusing.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tommytwotone on October 04, 2005, 08:26:19 am
surely for clarity it should be RH on right hand, LH on left hand, RF on right foot, LF on left foot...it's easy to get confused out there...
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: BenF on October 04, 2005, 08:38:39 am
And maybe to assist the redpointer a "move countdown" could be painted onto each route so that you know how far you've gone and how much is left.  

Further to this, an individual move grade could be painted on the rock between each hold, thus enabling the "on-sight" climber to avoid over-reaching or not putting enough effort into a move.  

And human variation (eg height) could be included in this tickmark-a-thon by using different coloured tickmarks/numbers etc etc.  Red paint for those under say 5'10.  Yellow for those between 5'10 and 6'0.  Blue for those 6'0 to 6'2 and no paint for the really lanky tw*ts because they don't need them, they can reach the chain anyway.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Falling Down on October 04, 2005, 07:05:56 pm
Quote from: "BenF"
And maybe to assist the redpointer a "move countdown" could be painted onto each route so that you know how far you've gone and how much is left.  

Further to this, an individual move grade could be painted on the rock between each hold, thus enabling the "on-sight" climber to avoid over-reaching or not putting enough effort into a move.  

And human variation (eg height) could be included in this tickmark-a-thon by using different coloured tickmarks/numbers etc etc.  Red paint for those under say 5'10.  Yellow for those between 5'10 and 6'0.  Blue for those 6'0 to 6'2 and no paint for the really lanky tw*ts because they don't need them, they can reach the chain anyway.


Very creative for 7:38 am... shure you haven't been up all night??
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Yossarian on October 04, 2005, 07:26:31 pm
Quote from: "Pantontino"
I also like this idea a lot, but I think it needs further refinement.

Aside from the L and R labels, I reckon that the would-be red pointer should clearly label his forehead with the word: COCK written in waterproof marker pen (in case it rains or they break sweat), just so that there is no confusion should any sane people turn up at the crag and wonder what is going on.


not sure about that. his forehead might be facing the rock.  a better idea might be a big yellow pointy hat, with COCK written over it at a selection of angles so that whatever position he might be in, it would leave bystanders in absolutely no doubt that he is a bit of a knob...
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on October 12, 2005, 07:28:02 pm
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10003/tickmark.jpg)

biggest tickmark i found in font. as you can see its pretty long, and about as thick as a slim panatella.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on October 12, 2005, 07:58:59 pm
Hi-tech comparative size investigation there. Do you work for Scotland Yard?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on October 12, 2005, 08:04:13 pm
it was the only thing i had to hand of a comparative size. I was going to use my johnson but I was worried it would make the tickmark look too small. :wink:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dobbin on October 12, 2005, 08:10:36 pm
at least the girth would have been right...  :wink:  :lol:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on October 12, 2005, 08:14:48 pm
must...resist...urge...to...photoshop...
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on October 12, 2005, 08:33:16 pm
Put it up on b3ta, and lo and behold... :lol:  :lol:  :lol:
http://www.b3ta.com/board/archive/24295/

Edit:link had changed
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on November 28, 2005, 11:02:33 pm
The next level, grade and direction of travel tick marked. Just do it at Dame Jouanne est. only in france

(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10165/donkey%20lines.JPG)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on November 29, 2005, 08:21:44 am
Quote from: "BenF"
And maybe to assist the redpointer a "move countdown" could be painted onto each route so that you know how far you've gone and how much is left.  



Something like a document page numbering system; L; hold 3 of 5, R; hold 5 of 6, then in big letters "END OF PROBLEM" at the top, in case you get confused.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: BenF on November 29, 2005, 08:38:45 am
And in a range of languages to avoid confusion.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on November 30, 2005, 04:01:13 pm
guilty.
(http://www.aschiodofisso.com/forum/files/2005_1120ceriola0019_bis_381.jpg)
i have to admit that its a really blind dyno, tho.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 30, 2005, 05:14:30 pm
good looking problem. That's not jimbo kimber is it?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on November 30, 2005, 07:13:51 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Put it up on b3ta, and lo and behold... :lol:  :lol:  :lol:
http://www.b3ta.com/board/archive/24295/

Edit:link had changed


is yours that pink? see a doctor lad.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Carnage on November 30, 2005, 09:32:06 pm
Quote from: "Jim"
The next level, grade and direction of travel tick marked. Just do it at Dame Jouanne est. only in france


Not only in France. Theres a new cave venue here and because its got no guide/topo, the grades are chalked at the starts. No directions are needed - You just follow the white route.  :wink:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on December 01, 2005, 12:58:33 am
yeah, but this one is in the guide with a grade and a full description (and is pretty log anyway, just ask unclenobody!) still the french thought it warrented chalking its grade and direction of movement anyway
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on December 02, 2005, 01:33:08 pm
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"
good looking problem. That's not jimbo kimber is it?

johnny,
i doubt i know who jimbo is, apart from the former tennis player jimmy connors.
the prob is a sandstone area in northern italy, where we thrashed ourselves for two days last weekend. great. worth the driving. gotta get back: unfinished business.
damn, my palms are already sweating.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Mr K on December 02, 2005, 10:38:59 pm
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"
good looking problem. That's not jimbo kimber is it?


No I have bigger arms than that thankyou very much!

JIMBO
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on December 23, 2005, 05:38:20 pm
(http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/503/medium/DSCF2073.JPG)

Speciality tickmark-to-bottom-of-hold-and-completely-missed-anyway tickmark.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on December 28, 2005, 11:03:24 am
:D

but the problem is so beautiful and complex!
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Control freak on March 20, 2006, 02:11:36 am
Garth on an 8C in the Blues

(http://web.8a.nu/images/firstPageImages/garthvert.gif)

Wonder where this one goes?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Carnage on March 20, 2006, 02:29:58 am
Aaaah, the white route - Plenty of those in the Blueys. Chalk always shows up nice and bright against that lovely orange sandstone.

Funnily enough, Garth is making the trip to England so I hope the he'll get a good tour from the 'right' folk.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on March 20, 2006, 10:27:04 am
freaks been in oz for 2 minutes n it's garth already :wink:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 20, 2006, 06:21:37 pm
Any one want to own up to this attrocity? Must have occurred yesterday, when it was drizzling  :roll:  
Problems like this should not be attempted when damp as they have fragile holds and pebbles which are weak when wet.
And as it has now been climbed ground-up, top-roping should be out, particularly to the ludicrous extent evidenced below.
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/careless.jpg)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: r-man on March 20, 2006, 06:43:48 pm
I've got a similiar photo, which I was going to post when I got round to uploading it. It was like that on Saturday though - so not necessarily attempted in the wet, as Saturday was very sunny. Was one of the few bits of rock that didn't seem to be affected by snow melt.

A bit over the top with the chalk. Though the anti top-roping thing is a bit elitist.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 20, 2006, 06:55:23 pm
Quote
A bit over the top with the chalk. Though the anti top-roping thing is a bit elitist.


This isn't brownstones. Problems don't need covering in chalk to make them look like good problems. The amount of chalk in that photo is totally unnecessary and an eyesore. You clearly agreed if you thought it worth photographing.

How is the 'anti-toproping thing' elitist? It has been long established that once  style has been improved subsequent ascents should follow suit.

Or are you suggesting climbers not good enough to do the start should still be allowed to enjoy trying the top section in safety? Bullshit. Enough routes have already been damaged by punters scrabbling about on the safety of a tight rope.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on March 20, 2006, 07:08:00 pm
Do all those holds need chalk on them too? Some look a bit unnecessary.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: al on March 20, 2006, 07:13:20 pm
also have same shots in my digicam, and was going to post but you beat me to it JB. i was up there saturday, and i assume it wasn't done then (didn't see any sun, it was minging and no-one around, although i was up in the afternoon)
it was like seeing the best looking girl in school shagging the geography teacher behind the bike shed!
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 20, 2006, 07:35:27 pm
Quote from: "al"
it was like seeing the best looking girl in school shagging the geography teacher behind the bike shed!


Genius  :lol: My feelings exactly

Quote from: "andi_e"
Do all those holds need chalk on them too? Some look a bit unnecessary.


No. About half of them are either footholds or not used, which is another reason why I think they were trying to climb it whilst damp. The fact that the chalk has also survived two days drizzle is testament to the amount on each hold. All of the ticks are also unnecessary - for the crimp on the left wall (gaining which is the only vaguely blind move) there is a pebble on the arete which acts as a perfect marker - you can actually see it just below the tick. The fools.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on March 20, 2006, 07:37:27 pm
Quote from: "al"
geography teacher

A particulary old and ugly one?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on March 20, 2006, 07:55:40 pm
i ain't done more than 2 moves on this problem and even i can count at least 6 chalked holds on there that you don't use on the start at least. must be a bloody toproper's sequence for sure. :roll:

climbing is an elitist activity by nature. if people don't like it then sucks to be them!
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 20, 2006, 09:35:38 pm
Quote from: "al"
it was like seeing the best looking girl in school shagging the geography teacher behind the bike shed!


You got some shots of that too?? ;)


The ticks - another "classic" example of tickmarks to holds that are so covered in chalk they can be seen on Google Earth anyway. Why oh why?


The ethics - well....I don't know if the precedent is going to change any time soon because of one improved ascent. But, I'm glad there are people in JB's elevated position who are taking a strong ethical stance.

Why the hell are you called JB anyway?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: r-man on March 20, 2006, 11:25:42 pm
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"

This isn't brownstones. Problems don't need covering in chalk to make them look like good problems. The amount of chalk in that photo is totally unnecessary and an eyesore. You clearly agreed if you thought it worth photographing.


You're right, it isn't Brownstones. What exactly does Brownstones have to do with it? How odd.

And yes, I did agree that it was excessive. I said so.

Quote

Or are you suggesting climbers not good enough to do the start should still be allowed to enjoy trying the top section in safety? Bullshit.


No, I'm pretty sure I didn't say that. I can't imagine anyone wanting to anyway. But one person's highball is another person's E number, don't see what's so wrong with practicing the top moves on a rope. Not everyone is trying to stay at the forefront of climbing ethics - some people just want to enjoy the moves and avoid injury. Why is that so wrong? That's the spirit of bouldering isn't it? Each to their own, as long as they don't ruin things for others, and I can't really see CT ruined by hordes of topropers...
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Control freak on March 21, 2006, 03:28:34 am
Quote from: "r-man"
But one person's highball is another person's E number, don't see what's so wrong with practicing the top moves on a rope. Not everyone is trying to stay at the forefront of climbing ethics - some people just want to enjoy the moves and avoid injury. Why is that so wrong? That's the spirit of bouldering isn't it?


But we're not just talking about another route here are we - this is a significant and hard boulder problem which is well within modern standards for a high ball with lots of pads. Andy Brown fell from the top and was fine and in light of current ground up ascents, there isnt really and need to top rope this

And if said wouldbe ascentionist is not trying to stay at the forefront of climbing then why would they be trying to climb a route such as this - theres hundreds and routes up on the edge, go do one of them.

Its people bringing things down to their own level which holds climbing back - people are too soft these days, wanting to take the easy route for a big number.

We only have so much rock in England - lets not ruin it for future generations
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: r-man on March 21, 2006, 04:20:45 am
Quote

But we're not just talking about another route here are we - this is a significant and hard boulder problem which is well within modern standards for a high ball with lots of pads.


Look, if someone can do the bottom bit, surely they aren't going to take that long top-roping the top bit. It's hard, but it's four grades easier or something like that (8a+ and 7b+?). I don't really see how the few people that will want to try it on a top-rope are going to ruin it.

Chances are some people will try it ground-up, and well done to them, but I don't see anything wrong with a few (and it will only be a few, compared to the millions thrashing around on most problems) people who want to get the top wired on a rope.

 
Quote
Andy Brown fell from the top and was fine so the only reason for wanting to pre-practice the moves is a lack of ability.


This of course means that everyone who falls from the top will be fine...

Quote
And if said wouldbe ascentionist is not trying to stay at the forefront of climbing then why would they be trying to climb a route such as this


Um... Am I missing something here? Because it's an amazing line that most people would love to climb. Surely the experience of climbing it is why people want to climb it... The line, the challenge, the moves... not because they are "trying to stay at the forefront of climbing"

Quote
Its people bringing things down to their own level which holds climbing back - people are too soft these days, wanting to take the easy route for a big number.


Holds climbing back? :shock: How exactly is someone climbing a route for their own personal satisfaction holding climbing back? And CT surely isn't an easy route for a big number. Most E6s must be technically miles easier. Or E8s. Or E10s?

Quote
We only have so much rock in England - lets not ruin it for future generations


Right. And we can start our crusade by preserving Careless Torque. Would people stop climbing it in mucky trainers, that really annoys me. At least bring a carpet to wipe your feet on.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 21, 2006, 09:27:46 am
The point is that the great thing about climbing, in all its forms, is that you get the same experience whatever your level of ability. If you are climbing at your limit you are getting the same experience. There are very few sports for which that is true.

Sadly grades and ego mean folk forget this and run around chasing after bigger numbers by whatever means. I'd say the majority of young climbers who leave home and move to sheffield go through a phase of this. Get ahead of the game - you get a lot more out of climbing an easier route in good style than you do by sieging a hard one. Becoming an "E7 man" by whatever means is not all that fullfilling.

I fell into the same trap; the week I got my driving licence I went to the Roaches on my own and set up a shunt line on Piece of mind. I'd never been on an E6 and wanted very much to climb hard grit routes. I warmed up and then got on it... and flashed it. Sat on top I've never felt so hollow. I knew I wasn't good enough to climb it, I felt like I'd raped the route. I've been trying to forget the moves so I can go back and enjoy it but ten years later and I haven't. Bummer.

With gritstone we have a few more factors too consider. The rock, especially on harder routes, is fragile. Beau Geste, Benign Lives and Braille trail, all now harder after pebbles were knocked off by clumsy top-ropers. And thats just the routes that start with a B. Second, the rock is running out. Apart from a few lines at Black rocks and Wimberry there really isn't much left in the future of grit new routes. They will become fewer and farther apart.

The future of grit is in style. The hard routes of the eighties and nineties will become testpieces for onsight climbing; this started years ago but has really come of age in the last two seasons with the young generation coming through. They aren't wasting their time digging out crap new headpoints on Kinder, they are out there making ascents of the classic lines in improved style. This approach really opens up gritstone - so much to go at. Get wid the programme y'all.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Huffy on March 21, 2006, 10:12:59 am
Come now, climbing is just a hobbie you guys!

Imagine if stamp collectors were to have similar debates...

Sadly rarities and watermarks mean folk forget this and run around chasing after bigger numbers by whatever means. I'd say the majority of young philatelics who leave home and move to sheffield go through a phase of this. Get ahead of the game - bulid up your collection slowly. Becoming a "penny black man" by whatever means is not all that fullfilling.

The future of stamp collecting is in style. Those rare stamps of the eighteen fourties and fifties will become testpieces for keen young philatelists; this started years ago but has really come of age in the last two seasons with the young generation coming through. They aren't wasting their time digging out crap from bin bags at oxfam, they are out there onsighting those two penny blues at high brow markets in improved style. This approach really opens up their collection - so much to go at.

After reading over this i might be convinced that they actually would. I wouldn't tho....

Don't mean to flame you here Adam (i agree with some of what you say and respect your passion for climbing) but gritstone purists are never gonna win this ethical crusade cos they dont have a birth certificate with that rocks name on it. Some folk argue that anti-top roping ethics holds back climbing, and the rationale behind this is obvious. Saying someone shouldn't toprope something like CT is as stupid as saying dwi ddim yn hoffi cig to an iranian pig farmer though!
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on March 21, 2006, 10:48:44 am
my two cents, from a country where ethics are perhaps sometimes left apart.

i would like to try the moves of careless torque, or many other that have already been grounded up. i cant see any harm in it: not to the rock, nor to the climbing, nor to the ethic. i can say that a top roped ascent sits a step behind a headpoint, and that last behind the ground up, sure.

why should one be deprived of the joy of trying beautiful moves? i mean, nobodys putting bolts on the top to practice with rope.

i reckon alot depends also in the climbers attitude: making ones name big or having pics on the mags makes alot of difference from who just climbs for self pleasure, or for pleasure.

the tickmarks and chalk are ugly to see and prolly useless, of course.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: al on March 21, 2006, 10:53:48 am
i have been waiting years for ground up ethics to be adopted by climbers on grit, and am excited that it is dawning on climbers that there is far more to be gained from such styles.
there has been nothing more depressing than the headpointing years - it sucks all the adventure and discovery out of climbing, and makes numbers a priority.
i think the media has played a large role in gloryfying these ascents in a bid to headline ever bigger numbers - i think we all know that the well known 'stars' of this type of climbing have never been the true talents, just climbers operating way above their standard using such techniques.
(new routes are an exception here, and it will always need the ground to be broken before the styles get better, but as far as i'm concerned every subsequent ascent should be ground up, otherwise why bother?)
thats why i like bouldering so much - ain't no ropes to pull on  :)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 21, 2006, 11:19:23 am
Word to that Al.

Nibile, I can see its hard to understand from your viewpoint, but these routes are fragile. Top-roping, particularly by climbers who aren't really good enough, can and does damage the rock. Pebbles are especially vulnerable.

If you want to try hard 'beautiful' moves there are plenty to go at without roping CT.

Once a route has been climbed ground-up the bar has been raised. Have some ambition; if you don't feel up to it then go elsewhere until you are good enough.

Quote from: "nibile"
i reckon alot depends also in the climbers attitude: making ones name big or having pics on the mags makes alot of difference from who just climbs for self pleasure


This might not be clear if you've only been following grit climbing for a couple of years, but as Al said; the big egos who wanted to be famous went for the big numbers in bad style and fame. The guys who climbed for themselves settled for smaller numbers in better style, and obscurity.

Quote from: "huffy"
but gritstone purists are never gonna win this ethical crusade


I think you're wrong here, and past events back me up. Why don't we have bolts on grit? Pegs? Points of aid? All have been used and later eliminated by the climbing community. Headpointing will go the same way; its the only way for grit to have a relevant future. No one will have to stop anyone or lay down rules, it will just slowly become deeply unfashionable.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on March 21, 2006, 11:37:37 am
ive always been a great fan of grit climbing, dunno why. perhaps cos it has the fascination of something "more" than just pulling on small edges.
i know your ethics very well, and if you say that "bulls attitude" toproping can damage the rock i cant say anything in response.

but, again and more in general, i think that little differences in attitude can have enormous consequence in practice. its after all a matter of respect, a respect that should tell you if its time to pull off the rope and leave CT in peace, instead of slapping everywhere just relying on the rope.

i also think that the line between ethic and elitism is thin. i dont think to climbing as being an elitist sport. in fact its not even a sport, its a discipline to me.

to preserve the rock and our environment is a primary need, and even if it would have been a bummer, i would have happily respected the stanage ban, if it was up when i was there.
again, respect.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 21, 2006, 11:40:52 am
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"
The point is that the great thing about climbing, in all its forms, is that you get the same experience whatever your level of ability. If you are climbing at your limit you are getting the same experience. There are very few sports for which that is true.

Sadly grades and ego mean folk forget this and run around chasing after bigger numbers by whatever means. I'd say the majority of young climbers who leave home and move to sheffield go through a phase of this. Get ahead of the game - you get a lot more out of climbing an easier route in good style than you do by sieging a hard one. Becoming an "E7 man" by whatever means is not all that fullfilling.

I fell into the same trap; the week I got my driving licence I went to the Roaches on my own and set up a shunt line on Piece of mind. I'd never been on an E6 and wanted very much to climb hard grit routes. I warmed up and then got on it... and flashed it. Sat on top I've never felt so hollow. I knew I wasn't good enough to climb it, I felt like I'd raped the route. I've been trying to forget the moves so I can go back and enjoy it but ten years later and I haven't. Bummer.

With gritstone we have a few more factors too consider. The rock, especially on harder routes, is fragile. Beau Geste, Benign Lives and Braille trail, all now harder after pebbles were knocked off by clumsy top-ropers. And thats just the routes that start with a B. Second, the rock is running out. Apart from a few lines at Black rocks and Wimberry there really isn't much left in the future of grit new routes. They will become fewer and farther apart.

The future of grit is in style. The hard routes of the eighties and nineties will become testpieces for onsight climbing; this started years ago but has really come of age in the last two seasons with the young generation coming through. They aren't wasting their time digging out crap new headpoints on Kinder, they are out there making ascents of the classic lines in improved style. This approach really opens up gritstone - so much to go at. Get wid the programme y'all
.


Excellent post (Al's post is good too).

If Mick_Rockfax is going to take any post from UKB and make it into a UKC "news item", it should be that one.

Unfortunately, from repeated and bitter experience, taking a strong and principled standpoint like that tends to attract plenty of abuse and knee-jerk actions without people actually looking seriously at the nature of climbing and the nature of it's personal challenges. Thankfully not too much on here though.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on March 21, 2006, 11:48:45 am
Apparently Marrowbone Jelly at Caley had received some similar treatment on saturday - anyone want to own up  :?:

Agree with the sentiments about ground up climbing.  With the advent of bouldering mats, and the fact that now most people own at least one I would prefer to see routes being attempted ground up with lots of mats, rather than on a toprope.

How do the ethical purists feel about padpointing?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on March 21, 2006, 11:59:33 am
I'm not making any judgement here, just speaking for myself.
 I've been doing bouldering, trad and sport climbing since about 1989, but with the exception of the odd new route i've never got into the headpointing thing at all. It just leaves me cold, for much the same reasons given by Al. Perhaps that's just an excuse for cowardice on my part, but it just seems a slightly boring, lonely sort of climbing. Once you decide to seige a route, it becomes an almost forgone conclusion you will climb it, bar a slim margin of risk.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on March 21, 2006, 12:35:03 pm
As an ex-headpointer, I'm sat wondering whether I should be feeling a bit guilty. I was probably an early adopter of headpointing alongside people such as Seb operating (just?) behind the lead set by people such as Nick and the two JDs and I dont remember our climbing being so soul-less and ego driven (though maybe I'm in denial). I gave up headpointing quite quickly (with a late exception for new route at Helsby in 2001) because it did pall after a while. E7s that were hard to onsight could be headpointed very easily - but I can't deny it also delivered some great experiences along the way as well.

But - to get to the point - context is important and in this sense it might be possible to see headpointing as a necessary (and now hopefully finished) interlude. Progress isn't always smooth and leaps forward rare and sometimes wrong turns are taken in trying to move things on. Headpointing was probably far less detrimental than other potential paths that could have been taken - such as bolting. It is true though that it should now be recognized as having had its day

peace and love etc.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on March 21, 2006, 01:06:02 pm
Quote from: "r-man"
what's so wrong with practicing the top moves on a rope.  


Quote from: "r-man"
That's the spirit of bouldering isn't it?


 :lol: that's dynamite tony.

what about practicing the top moves of the following on a rope?: NTBTA, crescent arete, west side story, yellow desert scream, kaizen... the list goes on.

on a seperate note we need to make huffy more angry. grr.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on March 21, 2006, 01:32:21 pm
Quote from: "andy popp"
As an ex-headpointer, I'm sat wondering whether I should be feeling a bit guilty. I was probably an early adopter of headpointing alongside people such as Seb operating (just?) behind the lead set by people such as Nick and the two JDs and I dont remember our climbing being so soul-less and ego driven (though maybe I'm in denial). I gave up headpointing quite quickly (with a late exception for new route at Helsby in 2001) because it did pall after a while. E7s that were hard to onsight could be headpointed very easily - but I can't deny it also delivered some great experiences along the way as well.

But - to get to the point - context is important and in this sense it might be possible to see headpointing as a necessary (and now hopefully finished) interlude. Progress isn't always smooth and leaps forward rare and sometimes wrong turns are taken in trying to move things on. Headpointing was probably far less detrimental than other potential paths that could have been taken - such as bolting. It is true though that it should now be recognized as having had its day

peace and love etc.

 Context is everything. Headpointing was breaking new ground back then, plus a lot of what you did was new routing (arguably a more justifiable reason to headpoint), plus pads hadn't taken off yet.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 21, 2006, 01:52:33 pm
As has also been pointed out elsewhere; almost without exception the repeats of these early hard grit routes were in worse style than the first. Dawes being the best example - he got to the top move of End of the Affair ground-up before resorting to inspection for the last move, Gaia's top half was not practiced cos he thought it would be easy (hence the crying described on stone monkey).

The early days were often just abseil inspection, a few moves practiced at a time. Problem was, you give the masses an inch, they take a mile. By the mid nineties it had got to the ridiculous point of Seb talking about cleanly roping a route six times in a row before he would consider a lead, or Nick Dixon talking about a 'robotic' state of mind when executing bold but wired-in moves.

All got called headpointing, with very few folk being in a position where they were able to distinguish between what was actually cutting-edge climbing and mindless grade-chasing by any means. The magazines certainly couldn't - a fact I'm sure is at least partly responsible for the current generations disaffection with the mags.

I don't want to feel like a robot on grit.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on March 21, 2006, 01:55:02 pm
Thanks Bonjoy. I wasn't really thinking about myself so much as the whole scene when headpointing began. Just think some of the more dictatorial statements painting it as a mortal threat to grit climbing are exaggerated. The pad point is obvious but undoubtedly significant on some routes. And, as JB himself pointed out on the thread on Ryan flashing TEOTA, there's headpointing and there's headpointing
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 21, 2006, 02:09:48 pm
Quote
Just think some of the more dictatorial statements painting it as a mortal threat to grit climbing are exaggerated


i guess that's me - hopefully the last post explained it a bit. I don't think its that big a deal, after all I've held ropes and photographed friends on their headpoints. As Bonjoy said, it was relevant at the time, but lost its way.

I do think its time to move on whilst there is some stuff left for the future, though. What does wind me up is the gormless who haven't got the vision to see thats the case  :roll:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on March 21, 2006, 02:22:51 pm
Apologies for the dictatorial bit, unintentionally a bit too strong there. As ever, I think there's more agreement than disagreement here. Yes, its time to move on, which is why I so enthusiastically greeted Ryan's flash of TEOTA, but I didn't think the point about it serving a purpose at one time had been made. Its just wrong to tar all headpointing with the same brush. I would be unashamedly elitist about this though - headpointing is only valid at or near the cutting edge.

Dont accept the idea that Nick is one 'the masses' though.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Huffy on March 21, 2006, 03:25:47 pm
Anyone else collect stamps? :wink:

Adam: You go strong girl!
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on March 21, 2006, 07:00:09 pm
Quote from: "Nibile"
i would like to try the moves of careless torque, or many other that have already been grounded up. i cant see any harm in it: not to the rock, nor to the climbing, nor to the ethic.


I would wager that if you did try the moves of say the top half of CT on a rope then you'd probably find them as good as any number of problems of a similar grade. I doubt they would be anything out of this world - which brings me to my point. Gritstone to me is about more than just the moves, or the setting,, the rock, or the history, or the social aspect or the danger. Gristone is one of those things which is greater than the sum of its parts. Careless Torque is not a classic simply because of the moves, its a classic due to a special combination of moves, difficulty, line, danger, history and setting. To take just one or two of those aspects in isolation (like on a toprope just to experience the moves) is to miss out on what things like this are funadmentally about, the essence of it all - hence JB's hollow feeling on the top of POM. If all you want is to experience top quality 7b+ moves or whatever in total safety then luckily the crags are full of problems that fit the bill. There is simply no need to strip CT down to the lowest common denominators. And that ignoring the oft-discusses issue of rock damage etc.....

Forgive me if this sounds all a bit pretentious, but I'm sure we all recognise that climbing is as good as it is because of the interplay of all those special aspects. If all we were bothered about was the strength then we'd just be meat heads down the gym. If all we wanted was danger we'd be out playing russian roulette. If one facet of climbing crystalises this combination of factors better than any other then it would seem to be gritstone. Thats the magic "zing", that certain je ne sais quoi. we all have felt it, and know it, yet its so hard to put a finger on, which is why only the more easily quantifiable factors get pimped in the media. The grade chasing etc. and then its easy to become blinded to what draws us to grit in the first place.

the great thing about grit of course is the variety. So if you want a safe hard boulder problem then you've got it. If you want a dangerous route with technically easy moves at any grade you've got it. If you want hard moves with gear at your feet then fill your boots. Theres enough safe quality climbing to try on grit to go at without robbing yourself of one of the great all-round challenges like CT. And so what if you save a route for the onsight and never get on it? big deal. I can't imagine many people go to their death bed wishing they'd toproped more routes. half of the best bit of grit is the mystery.

Sorry if that got a bit heavy.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Control freak on March 21, 2006, 10:37:16 pm
Quote from: "dave"
And so what if you save a route for the onsight and never get on it? big deal. I can't imagine many people go to their death bed wishing they'd toproped more routes. half of the best bit of grit is the mystery.


Exactly - like Grimer said in Stanage Through The Grades
Quote from: "grimer"
Some routes it would be good to climb, some routes it would be good never to climb at all

I think this encapsulates perfectly what gritstone climbing is all about. With the exception of a few, technical difficulty on most grit climbs isnt hard, by modern standards. Its the combination of all the factors, like Dave siad, which gives grit ts unique experience.

It you can master all of these parts then the personal experience is amazing. Im sure everyones made a hard onsight where you get to the top and you cant really remember what happened - everything just flowed. When you get something on a rope, it may as well just be another boulder problem.

Going back to the quote, it can sometimes be better never to have experienced something and just dream about yourself high up on moves that you think you should be able to do but arent sure, than it is to ruin that dream.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 21, 2006, 10:59:21 pm
Good posts! This thread is starting to reaffirm one's faith in climbers...
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on March 22, 2006, 08:54:08 am
Sheer Poetry Dave, sheer poetry.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: al on March 22, 2006, 09:35:48 am
Quote
the best bit of grit is the mystery.

hit the spot dave
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lorentz on March 22, 2006, 09:42:01 am
I agree. This is the essence of the way of the boulderer. Let's hope that some major corporate footwear company doesn't pick up on this viewpint and cheapen it in some cheesy ad campaign!

And I thought these new posts were just gonna be photos of horrendous chalk marks!:wink:[/quote]
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mark on March 22, 2006, 09:51:48 am
Quote from: "Control freak"
When you get something on a rope, it may as well just be another boulder problem.


Perhaps this is your experience, it is certainly not mine. Some of my headpoints have had me unable to sleep beforehand, too full of fear and anticipation. Then completely elated after. These have been some of my most intense climbing experiences.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mark on March 22, 2006, 12:21:45 pm
I quite like headpointing sometimes. So there.

[Edited because I can't be bothered getting into a convoluted debate.]
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: al on March 23, 2006, 03:40:54 pm
thats cos you're a bad man mark
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: saltbeef on March 23, 2006, 08:47:56 pm
i can smell those joss stiks from here. see you all at yoga.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 24, 2006, 10:05:12 am
I read your post mark, and, fair enough, some people are going to make headpointing a less sterile experience than others.

I think people are referring to this sort of thing:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=174252&v=1#2502892

...some kid thinking top-roping Psycho @ Caley is the way forward  :roll:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on March 25, 2006, 09:40:10 am
No, Fiend, I don't think so. Al talked about the 'headpointing years' (dates?) and JB named specific, well-known climbers from the 80s/90s. There's a whiff of revisionism about this that threatens downgrade a very important decade on grit from about 84 onwards. Jesus, it was better than the 60s when they toproped and pegged. Maybe things got worse from the late 90s with people headpointing with no track record in onsights, I don't know. I'd be genuinely interested to know what the state of play is now and not just at very top. Is the Peak now rammed with climbers regularly onsighting grit E6 or even E5?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 25, 2006, 04:00:36 pm
Well, I was referring to trains of thought like this...

Quote
Sadly grades and ego mean folk forget this and run around chasing after bigger numbers by whatever means. I'd say the majority of young climbers who leave home and move to sheffield go through a phase of this. Get ahead of the game - you get a lot more out of climbing an easier route in good style than you do by sieging a hard one.


The impression I get from the last few pages is that the pre-Hard Grit headpointing era had it's role to play and was fine at the time, but things need to move on from that era, and with modern protection, modern training etc etc, improving style is the way forward.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on March 25, 2006, 05:52:12 pm
OK fair enough, its partly about that, trying to run before you can walk. But some of its been meant more broadly - if not, why name Seb or Nick? Otherwise I think we're in agreement pretty much - of course, improving style is the way forward, always has been
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on March 25, 2006, 06:22:15 pm
i think he named them names cos everybody will have heard of them
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on March 25, 2006, 07:16:22 pm
Except that's not a very good reason when your real target is meant to be barely competent E4 leaders who want to claim they lead E7
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 25, 2006, 07:52:29 pm
If there is a whiff of revisionism about this, it isn't intended. I, and I'm sure the others, have plenty of respect for the likes of yourself who pushed standards at the time.

In many ways I think the need for a new, purer ethic is because headpointing has proved too effective. There really isn't the plethora of lines and gaps that existed in '86. That isn't just a jaded, blinkered view - ther are loads at Wimberry and a couple at Black Rocks, plus a few scattered over yorkshire but we really are running out of rock. 'Last great lines' like elder arete at curbar have turned out to be non-lines - the groove at cratcliffe will be the same - a couple of hard moves in fifteen metres. The change in style is needed to keep grit alive and relevant.

I think also the headpointing style was adopted in an effort to help trad keep up with the sudden push in standards on lime as a result of the discovery of sport climbing. Along with that then came the 'anything goes' attitude, and we went form the likes of Dawes checking moves on abseil for routes he had already tried ground-up, to Seb and his siege ascents. The headpoint did evolve into something that involved less and less real risk, and then its influence filtered down and led to a lot of E3, E4 headpointing. I don't see them as a problem though - they are just copying the guys at the top. The hypocrisy of saying 'oh you can't do that until you're as good as us' is obvious and, to me, unacceptable.

I think now there is an acceptance that grit has a difficulty of its own - no matter that the supposed french-grade is so low to be irrelevant. Hence we can take it on its own terms rather than trying to create hard routes by any means. Plus, of course, the bouldering and highballing boom that has changed the way we view routes.

Second, as has been said earlier - these routes are fragile and are getting worn. I've seen people kick pebbles on toprope to make sure they're solid enough to trust for the headpoint. That, to me, is disrespectful to the rock. Accept the risk or go clip bolts.

Quote from: "andy popp"
Maybe things got worse from the late 90s with people headpointing with no track record in onsights, I don't know. I'd be genuinely interested to know what the state of play is now and not just at very top. Is the Peak now rammed with climbers regularly onsighting grit E6 or even E5?


Yeah I think they did. There were a few folk who were only interested in 'Hard grit', and just went round headpointing E6-E8 routes. I don't think they even tried to on-sight E5s - not 'Hard' enough. There were also a lot who jumped straight from bouldering to headpointing - James Pearson for example climbed E10 before he'd onsighted E6.

There are a lot of climbers who regularly on-sight E5s - though I think there always have been.. There are a lot of E6s which are now ground-upped with pads all the time. What has been kept quiet is a select bunch who are onsighting E6s and E7s regularly, and now E8 is being broken into . For some reason they aren't interested in the mags and the mags don't seem to be interested in them.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on March 25, 2006, 08:18:22 pm
Dear Johnny. Thanks for that post. I never wanted an argument about this, and certainly not to shore up some spurious rep, but just to get some balance that was originally missing - and I think we've achieved that now. If things changed a lot in the late 90s then that would explain the differences in our perspectives as by then I wasn't climbing in the Peak. Three cheers for a good debate. Its a shame the really exciting sounding stuff going on is missing from the news, I'd love to hear it all because I love grit and the poople who like to climb on it
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: al on March 25, 2006, 08:53:44 pm
Quote
Al talked about the 'headpointing years' (dates?)

here's my moral high ground:
i suppose i was thinking from the mid 80's to late 90's, when it was really in vogue, and although i get the drift re. 'context', headpointing always seemed like a con to me, and speaking personally always fealt like an expression of need (as opposed to climbing skills).

i agree though andy, the best thing about it is that it doesn't physically alter the rock, although with regard to this thread, it does mean the routes get a bigger kicking/ticking! (although having made guidebooks, i can't justifiably winge about increased traffic)

also think that pads, and the influence of bouldering, have made 'ground up' on grit totally viable, both of which weren't around during that era.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on March 25, 2006, 09:18:18 pm
But aren't we all expressing some sort of need every time we climb
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: al on March 25, 2006, 09:49:42 pm
Quote
But aren't we all expressing some sort of need every time we climb

yep, for sure, i just think the rock needs a bigger chance than headpointing gives it, thats my opinion

however AP, the last thing i mean to do is take anything away from your climbing legacy, having personally witnessed some of your feats

respect
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: james on March 25, 2006, 10:14:48 pm
One thing that grates on me is the way that some people seem to  label what, in their opinion, is the right and wrong way to climb, and then scorn anyone that does different.  I may have got the wrong end of the stick but that is what comes accross, to me, when reading a few of the previous posts.  
So, being careful not to do what I have just passed comment on, here is my opinion.
Climbing is really good fun!  It can be frustrating, stressfull, scarey annoying...etc...etc but most of all, it is fun.  Looking back through history, you can see that at different points in time, different "disciplines" have been in vouge but just because "everybody" is doing it, doesnt mean you have to.  To me there is no right or wrong, it is afterall just climbing.  I get vastly different feelings and emotions from headpointing as I do from onsighting, just like I get a different buzz out of bouldering than I do sport climbing.  This year I have hardly tied on at all, but that doesent mean that bouldering is the thing to do, and that routes are evil, just that I wanted to go bouldering when I woke up each morning.  During my shortish life, I have developed my own set of ethics and ideas, they may not be the same as someone elses, but does that make them any less worthy and vice versa.  Do what makes you happy, enjoy yourself, be considerate.

BTW I had onsighted a few E6's before I did Equilibrium
 :wink:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: al on March 25, 2006, 10:32:52 pm
i think it is fine that there are strong opinions on this matter - its a bit of passion - as to the scorn maybe not so nice  :?

Quote
Do what makes you happy, enjoy yourself, be considerate.

again agree, especially with regard consideration, which was the original point of this thread, and the relevant lack of said consideration on careless torque
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on March 26, 2006, 09:32:03 am
Al, I've pm'd you

Andy
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 26, 2006, 12:26:05 pm
Time to dig this up:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=37276&v=1

A lot of ranting on this very subject between errrr, myself, and various other people including but not limited to Keen Youth, Unclemullet, nik at church, Stu 8a Littlefair, Bubba....crikey it's good I don't post like that any more   :shock:  :roll:  :?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: james on March 26, 2006, 01:41:47 pm
It makes me cringe reading old posts, I had some silly ideas and said some silly things, my favourite quote from that thread has to be Feind to Bubba:

Quote
F*ck you too you mindless retard.....


A little harsh, things getting a bit to much :wink:   I know that feeling on CT re the recent threads about "the liar"  Feels like you are banging your head against a wall, the punters just dont see the truth!
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bubba on March 26, 2006, 02:45:15 pm
Lordy  :shock:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on March 26, 2006, 04:17:16 pm
Am grateful for but rather embarrassed by the expressions of respect etc. from Al and JB. Honestly, guys, theres no need - I know nothing was aimed at me and haven't taken anything as though it were. Everyone enjoy themselves
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 26, 2006, 10:56:06 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
Lordy  :shock:


I know. Sorry, I obviously got carried away.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: AndyR on March 27, 2006, 04:16:01 am
Quote from: "gruff"
Quote from: "Fiend"
Quote from: "Bubba"
Lordy  :shock:


I know. Sorry, I obviously got carried away.


If that isn't fishing for an apology, then my name is Sayyid Abul Ala Maududi.


Is that a welsh name?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on March 27, 2006, 08:24:26 am
Aye, commonly shortened to Gruff.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 27, 2006, 10:18:26 am
I think that whole thread is a bit  :shock: really.


Anyway, http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=174812&v=1#2508671

Kids, again. Running before they can walk?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 27, 2006, 12:06:32 pm
All highly entertaining.

James, sorry I got the facts wrong. Should have E7. Though I think doing kaluza as your second lead makes the same point! This is not meant as a criticism in any way - just trying to illustrate to Andy that the way folk get into hard grit has radically changed since he was on the scene.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bubba on March 27, 2006, 12:07:58 pm
Quote from: "Fiend"
Quote from: "Bubba"
Lordy  :shock:


I know. Sorry, I obviously got carried away.


It's ok, it was CT
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on March 27, 2006, 12:20:40 pm
oh my god, what have we become? can we get back to the original jist of the thread which is taking photo's of probs with huge ticks on them.

maybe another thread can be started with the title "it's really ok to top-rope downhill racer?"
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 27, 2006, 12:27:27 pm
BTW I didn't link that thread to get at Keenus, just to show a prior example of the debate. Hope that's clear.


Dense, I started another thread, but it dropped down pretty quick  :?

Besides with the current weather most tick marks will be dissolved and floating half-way to the coast already  :wink:
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on March 27, 2006, 01:17:01 pm
trop d'ethique tue l'ethique.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Palomides on March 27, 2006, 01:57:13 pm
Quote from: "a dense loner"
oh my god, what have we become? can we get back to the original jist of the thread which is taking photo's of probs with huge ticks on them.


(http://0friction.com/pix_51/zero_friction_pic_11727.jpg)
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on March 27, 2006, 03:10:47 pm
that's much better
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cowboyhat on April 18, 2006, 10:16:06 am
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10250/normal_KnockTick.jpg)

Anyone recognise the sequence for The Knock... I hope they aren't claiming E4.

Where has this ethic come from?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on April 18, 2006, 10:34:38 am
WTF?

Is my computer displaying images wrong?
Is this a rare troll by an otherwise sound UKB member?
Am I fucking hallucinating?

I am having a lot of difficulty believing that is real, I can't comprehend such idiocy! That is about as far removed from the simple act of "climbing routes" as it gets!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on April 18, 2006, 10:41:21 am
Was there a note by the break to remind them what size gear they needed too?  ???
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: BenF on April 18, 2006, 10:58:40 am
Maybe a flock of tiny birds were resting on the various edges and they all shat at the same time, leaving little white trails down the route?

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cowboyhat on April 18, 2006, 11:40:35 am
Imagine how confused I was when I saw it. All I had to take the picture was my phone.

And I was giving a really strong euro wad a tour of all the inspiring hard routes at Burbage, he was so psyched by Equilibrium and Parthian then...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bubba on April 19, 2006, 06:45:02 am
Where has this ethic come from?
Probably from seeing photos and videos of people doing similar things on hard problems / routes.

Who cares so long as they clean it off afterwards. That's my only beef with it, that people are too fucking lazy to wipe their shit off afterwards.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: chappers on April 19, 2006, 08:55:11 am
Who cares so long as they clean it off afterwards. That's my only beef with it, that people are too fucking lazy to wipe their shit off afterwards.

too right, i spent an age in monday scrubbing peoples drawings off of some problems down here at stone farm. twats.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Soxs on April 19, 2006, 02:33:07 pm
 
[/quote]too right, i spent an age in monday [/quote]

Fuck that must have been boring?

or

who was monday? fit?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on April 19, 2006, 03:24:32 pm
I think it's a typo.

I'm sure he means Mandy.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Moo on April 25, 2006, 10:20:21 pm
Wow i just read this thread cover to cover (skipped some of the boring bits admitedly). As some of you may know I recently undertook a few interviews with climbers as part of my dissertation, naturally style did come up quite frequently in my interviews but few saw it as being linked fully with the proggression of climbing, though all noted that there was a definite influence on it. I believe there is probably more to the proggression of climbing as a sport, particularly trad climbing, than the style in which new routes are ascended. Respect for the postings though its good to see a well conducted debate. (I'm shitting myself about this karma thing ever since earl came on tv).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Palomides on May 26, 2006, 02:28:33 pm
My cross-posting old thread-bumping rampage continues....

Back from page 4, and back on topic with this multiple-angle tickmark delight

(http://www.udini.de/gallery/OZ/XIFF/images/ammagamma01.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Houdini on May 26, 2006, 04:01:03 pm
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10250/normal_KnockTick.jpg)

Anyone recognise the sequence for The Knock... I hope they aren't claiming E4.

Where has this ethic come from?




FRANCE!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on May 26, 2006, 05:08:25 pm
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10169/normal_donk.JPG)

From sabots. Apparently visible with the naked eye from space. :o
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: whispering nic on May 28, 2006, 08:15:15 pm
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10250/normal_KnockTick.jpg)

Anyone recognise the sequence for The Knock... I hope they aren't claiming E4.

Where has this ethic come from?



FRANCE!

Nooo! it's the septic tanks! :wank:

(sorry to any non ticking americans I just wanted to use the emoticon...)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: superfurrymonkey on June 23, 2006, 04:01:50 pm
http://img.ukclimbing.com/i/47606.jpg just incase ur blind! :-\
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Resonate on June 26, 2006, 03:44:38 pm
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10169/normal_donk.JPG)

From sabots. Apparently visible with the naked eye from space. :o

Is that the hard-to-see foothold on Sal Gosse? I would have thought it'd be easier to see the hold itself than the the chalk above it cos of the rock angle...

probably find it's a totally different problem now...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on October 09, 2006, 12:10:14 pm
If there was ever a hold that didn't need a tickmark....!
(http://www.blokkatinemilia.com/public/photo/essai/Home/anello.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2006, 12:18:06 pm

Is that the hard-to-see foothold on Sal Gosse? I would have thought it'd be easier to see the hold itself than the the chalk above it cos of the rock angle...

probably find it's a totally different problem now...

Sorry, totalyl missed this when you asked. Haven't got a scooby what the problem is, not very good with naming problems in Font.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on October 09, 2006, 12:29:50 pm
If there was ever a hold that didn't need a tickmark....!
(http://www.blokkatinemilia.com/public/photo/essai/Home/anello.jpg)

how you dare????? ;)

that hold needs to be ticked, it has at least two different spots where to be held.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 11, 2006, 09:38:59 pm
Very sad but true, there was at least one donkey line at the climbing wall this evening! :jaw: 
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on October 12, 2006, 10:58:57 am
well im guilty on this point.
last week i tickmarked a hold, but hey wtf the keep setting problems with blind dynos to holds behind corners and other bigger holds.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: squeek on October 12, 2006, 11:26:42 am
Very sad but true, there was at least one donkey line at the climbing wall this evening!

What's the problem with that?  Spoiling the asthetics of it?  Ruining your photos?  Damaging the paint? ;)

There's quite frequently ticks at BUK because you have to gets holds on volumes that you can't see, or get holds round aretes, or footholds under volumes, or under the lip of a roof.  It's annoying to fall off because you missed the hold rather couldn't hold it.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bubba on October 12, 2006, 11:27:25 am
Very sad but true, there was at least one donkey line at the climbing wall this evening!
I don't have a problem with that - it's not creating an eyesore in a natural environment.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: webbo on October 12, 2006, 12:12:25 pm
Very sad but true, there was at least one donkey line at the climbing wall this evening! :jaw: 

i do this all the time.its good practice for doing it outside. :whistle:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fatboy on October 12, 2006, 01:04:20 pm
I dont see this being a big problem, as long as you make sure to get rid of them before you leave.
Anyone agree??  :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fatboySlimfast on October 12, 2006, 01:20:32 pm
the problem with then outside is the thickness of the chalk tends to bind to the rock leaving a mark whatever you do to try and remove it. I had to use water and a toothbrush to remove some off the easy little slab across from the Face of Busness. Big fat 1 inch fuckers as well, muppets :wall:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fatboy on October 12, 2006, 01:40:08 pm
Yeah true, I take your point and aslong as you have some water with you there should be no resaon to leave anything behind.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: unclesomebody on October 12, 2006, 02:20:16 pm
the problem with then outside is the thickness of the chalk tends to bind to the rock leaving a mark whatever you do to try and remove it. I had to use water and a toothbrush to remove some off the easy little slab across from the Face of Busness. Big fat 1 inch fuckers as well, muppets :wall:

objectively speaking, what is the difference between leaving a one inch tick mark behind and leaving a bunch of handholds covered in white chalk? I have never, ever, ever seen anyone washing handholds with water when they are leaving... but why? is a little tick so much more unsightly than a spreadout section of chalk on a hold? 
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on October 12, 2006, 02:36:14 pm
i think chalk is accepted or more acceptable cos it represent a "normal" use of the hold. the excess should be brushed away anyway.

but imagine arriving at your project and finding the holds completely soaked by a mixture of chalk and water...i surely would wait for them to dry, killing the necessary time by torturing the criminal who had done it ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: webbo on October 12, 2006, 02:41:22 pm
as my eyesight gets steadily worse with my increasing age will i need a note from my doctor/optician to allow me to draw an increasing number of donkey lines that will be needed for me to bumble up problems in the future.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on October 12, 2006, 02:43:33 pm
Yeah true, I take your point and aslong as you have some water with you there should be no resaon to leave anything behind.  :thumbsup:

In all my time bouldering, I have never seen anyone remove excessive chalk, be it build up, donkey marks or whatever once they have finished doing/working a problem. Nice to talk about it, but never actually witnessed it (a nd to be honest even done it) myself. I've removed excess chalk before trying them, and usually leave them with less chalk than before in these cases, but never actually cleaned them before moving on. Have never really donkey makred much, so can't comment.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fatboy on October 12, 2006, 02:54:03 pm
True, I have to say I've only ever really cleaned holds on a couple of projects that were fresh where I didnt want the holds to become gunky with repeated visits!!

Just an idealism I suppose and I agree that chalked hand holds are acceptable, and if excess is brushed away before moving on everyone should be happy!

 :thumbsup: Smiles all round??
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fatboySlimfast on October 12, 2006, 03:02:59 pm
Quote
objectively speaking, what is the difference between leaving a one inch tick mark behind and leaving a bunch of handholds covered in white chalk? I have never, ever, ever seen anyone washing handholds with water when they are leaving... but why? is a little tick so much more unsightly than a spreadout section of chalk on a hold?

err never said I washed handholds, only tick marks. Chalk on holds is in my opinion bad but at least its a slightly more subtle eyesore than tick marks which can be seen from a lot further away. The slab I was reffering to is english 5a, if you cant see the hold you shouldnt be bouldering or you should go to your nearest optician for an immediate check up
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: erm, sam on October 12, 2006, 09:29:52 pm
Surely the daft thing about ticking holds indoors is that if you practise being precise on blind holds indoors, you become better at it, and thus need less tickmarks outside. Ticking holds indoors is just a missed opportunity to become better at climbing.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on October 12, 2006, 09:54:18 pm
I put the biggest tick mark indoors last night. about a meter long and an inch wide with an old chalk ball. kept getting wrong foothold on an eliminate so did that. didn't get it wrong again thats for sure.
who cares about indoors, its only practice for the real thing
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on October 12, 2006, 10:02:34 pm
I have no objection to tickmarking indoors, except for the worry that people will get used to relying on a tickmark (and not needing to brush it off) and then automatically do it outdoors without thinking.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: The Sausage on October 13, 2006, 08:26:14 am
i have to be honest, i've cleaned holds with water at cragx and other slippery places. if you've tried a problem and are going back to it soonish, they'll feel a lot better when you get back to it. no for aesthetics, that's for sure. on the grit, surely most holds get cleaned by the rain soon enough?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 18, 2006, 07:03:25 pm
The problem with donkey lines inside are as follows.

1. It's seen as associated with 'hard climbing' which means that f--kwit students / aspiring climbers (take your pick I sadly have to go to warwick wall) will think is necessary to climb hard outside.

2. The point about climbing inside is that it's fun and or training, in either case donkey lines aren't required and actually in my view degrade both,

3. The idea 'it's ok for me I climb Vx and brush them off afterwards' is about as valid as saying I'm a responsible cleaner of holds, you damage them with your wire brush, they chip'.

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: unclesomebody on December 31, 2006, 05:09:31 pm
bringing this thread back from the dead;

(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e129/unclesomebody/ticks.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Monolith on December 31, 2006, 05:12:31 pm
Jesus Christ! Are they completely blind!? Correct me if I'm wrong, but it doesn't exactly look a blind slap to an ill defined shelf or crystal!
How did the trip go then Uncle? Welcome back to insanely shite weather mate.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on December 31, 2006, 06:53:15 pm
did you wash them off after using them? good few days you had over there
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on January 19, 2007, 01:14:31 pm
(http://woodsfamilyclimbs.com/albums/album135/051105_Tripple_Crown_Horse_Pens_40_025.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on January 19, 2007, 01:37:03 pm
Throw me a frikkin' bone here!!

That must be a pisstake.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Duma on January 19, 2007, 01:48:43 pm
Better than chalk, shirley? You just peel the tape off after.

Is thet Cofe?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on January 19, 2007, 01:50:56 pm
It would appear to be from the Horse Pens leg of the Triple Crown comp, I guess comp climbers can't read topos  ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on January 19, 2007, 05:53:12 pm
i certainly don't remember that.  ;D
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on January 23, 2007, 06:36:08 pm
Okay so the cave is not the most scenic location in the world or even the Peak but this sort of stuff, entirely unnecessary on the galaxy's biggest toehook, doesn't help.

Before:

(http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/cavetick1.jpg)

30 seconds after:

(http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/cavetick2.jpg)

I was only able to completely this monumentally challenging and innovative task due to a combined PHD in Rocket Science and Brain Surgery which gives me the necessary mental skills to know to brush the fucking tickmarks off.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Duma on January 23, 2007, 08:02:58 pm
That really is shitty, and wasn't there at 14:30 ish yesterday. Good job removing it Fiend
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Teaboy on January 25, 2007, 05:23:21 pm
Not sure how offensive I find these things but here's another example

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=60167

In fairness that hold is pretty hard to spot given that it is about head hight when stood at the bottom of the problem!!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Dr T on January 25, 2007, 10:11:46 pm
gives me the necessary mental skills to know to brush the fucking tickmarks off.

and that's the point isn't it, if you really need a tick mark fine, but put it on softly and brush it off before you leave....
as fiend implies it ain't rocket science or brain surgery....
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on January 31, 2007, 01:56:29 pm
Someone tell me this is uncannily accurate and white birdshit...

(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/RyanCratcliffeprow.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2007, 02:07:33 pm
Yes its birdshit. Is this a new record for most copied and posted pic on the forum? Are you after a job as UKB's very own Mick Ryan?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: monkey boy on January 31, 2007, 02:14:48 pm
What problem is it?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on January 31, 2007, 02:17:42 pm
Sparrow/My Best Friend The Watermelon
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: monkey boy on January 31, 2007, 02:22:09 pm
Looks high but good, where abouts is it? Rough grade?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2007, 02:22:49 pm
cratcliffe, font 7c
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on January 31, 2007, 02:27:06 pm
Check the discussion in chuffing>Last Great Routes/Highballs thread for details.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: monkey boy on January 31, 2007, 02:33:20 pm
Cheers guys! Awesome just noticed i have become a player, i am going up in the world!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on January 31, 2007, 04:32:23 pm
Is this a new record for most copied and posted pic on the forum?

Errrrr....one could also stick it in the Quality Bouldering Pics thread  :)

Quote
Are you after a job as UKB's very own Mick Ryan?

Oh dear god no  >:(

Nice pic BTW, quite an entertaining scenario it shows.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: rainbow on March 15, 2007, 08:05:04 pm
Decided to try and haul my ass across Wrights Traverse in the Churnet this afternoon and found this little lot. Whatever next !
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC07756.jpg?t=1173988927)

(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC07757.jpg?t=1173988963)

(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC07758.jpg?t=1173989016)

(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC07759.jpg?t=1173989052)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on March 15, 2007, 08:08:51 pm
Either you're joking or this is climbing by numbers?  Makes good beta for the flash I guess!!!!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Somebody's Fool on March 15, 2007, 08:28:57 pm
What do R and L mean?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on March 15, 2007, 08:31:07 pm
Reft and Light?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on March 15, 2007, 08:31:35 pm
Rest, Lock off.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Somebody's Fool on March 15, 2007, 08:35:25 pm
Not Robert and Lindsay? Apparently he's very good in the new stage version of The Producers.  The perpetrator might be a fan.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on March 15, 2007, 10:04:47 pm
All that tickmarking and they got the sequence wrong. punters.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Eddies on March 15, 2007, 10:20:09 pm
Nice... someone actually carries a stick of chalk about marking up holds  :wank:
I wonder if they have R and L written on the backs of there hands aswell !?

Must be a maths teacher, its important to show your working out... right?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: rainbow on March 15, 2007, 10:58:00 pm
Quote
All that tickmarking and they got the sequence wrong. punters.

Thats what I thought to. There was even a foot hold marked with a L as well. The bit after the glued flake was unmarked and its there when you're running out of juice you need to remeber the sequence.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on March 15, 2007, 11:01:11 pm
damn right, i got there and thought i was fucked cos i'd totally missed a deep 2finger pocket, but luckily spotted it as the last minute.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on March 16, 2007, 07:33:38 am
That's the most spannerish thing I have seen in a while. Unless it's a pisstake.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: BenF on March 16, 2007, 12:10:24 pm
I think we may have a candidate for the worst tick marking award 2007.  Truly terrible and no wonder non-clibers complain about our impact on the crag.  Made slightly better (for comedy reasons) by getting the sequence wrong though. 
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Dr T on March 16, 2007, 02:27:33 pm
IMHO there's nought wrong with the odd tick line if it's really needed so long as it's put on lightly so that you can completely remove (brush it off) before you leave otherwise it's a antisocial as mindless graffiti and people that leave tick marks (and worse sequences) are wankers...
(rant over, kids playing up at school... nearly easter holidays... thank fuck)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on March 16, 2007, 06:21:24 pm
I managed to really piss off a german guy on Bishop by brushing a similar set of tick marks off the iron man traverse. He came over just as we were leaving and said 'I had a great sequence worked out, I had put an L for my left, an R for my right and an M on the hold I was to match, now I will have to start all over again'  ::)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on March 16, 2007, 07:54:39 pm
Shame you didn't know he was still there.  You could have changed them all to Rs and watched the fun  :lol:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Blunk on March 18, 2007, 02:38:35 am
(http://www.fortcollinsacupuncture.com/climbing/Moab%203-9-1.JPG)

(http://www.fortcollinsacupuncture.com/climbing/MOab%203-9-2.JPG)

(http://www.fortcollinsacupuncture.com/climbing/Moab%203-11-1.JPG)

Last week's trip to Utah
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 18, 2007, 09:34:26 am
Don't see many donkey lines there El Blunko...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on March 18, 2007, 11:35:30 am
wrong thread dab!!!
 ;D
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Blunk on March 19, 2007, 03:04:44 am
Now how the hell did I manage to do that?!? I was looking right at Bonjoy's latest pic when I posted!  :-[
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on March 19, 2007, 07:26:28 am
Nicve pics regardless. Are those the Bend Boulders near Moab? Did you fnally succeed on your 20 year (or so) nemesis?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Blunk on March 19, 2007, 03:42:48 pm
Yes, it is Big Bend, and no I didn't get my nemesis. I think I'm going to give up on it finally, it's too far to keep driving out there now that we have kids and work is more demanding. Oh well, it's not like I didn't have fun trying it!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jwi on March 20, 2007, 08:13:34 am
(http://tkak.mine.nu/bimbo/bilder/464_mrhallontarta_hans.JPG)
 :o
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mini on April 14, 2007, 08:35:12 am
Spotted on the Hard Grit Slackjaw website - http://www.slackjaw.co.uk/climbingfilms/hgtfbtl.html  - scoll to the bottom to see the guilty party!

Guess we are just following our heroes!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on April 20, 2007, 03:53:14 pm
http://upload.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/77453901 (http://upload.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/77453901)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on April 20, 2007, 04:00:11 pm
at least those tickmarks are there to save ones life.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2007, 11:33:43 am
And it's not exactly like you can just brush them off once you have used them.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on April 23, 2007, 11:17:16 am
I have this vague suspicion that on leads of Meshuga (where the ticks might save one from injury), one might well be abseiling off for the cam in the break, and thus able to clean them then.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on April 23, 2007, 11:22:07 am
But that it were vertical, you probably could.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Carnage on May 08, 2007, 11:25:17 pm
A couple of beauties here. But then Nowra is one big tickmark.

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/222/485803150_604b3fd1e4.jpg?v=0)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on May 09, 2007, 11:32:51 am
does a chipped tickmarked hold count as double?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Carnage on May 22, 2007, 04:35:41 am
This hold must be hard to see from a multitude of directions

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/206/501951650_cd6daf8f09.jpg?v=0)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: (woz) on May 26, 2007, 11:08:06 am
Just seen this on UKC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHQ9pWEG9dE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHQ9pWEG9dE)
talk about climbing by numbers... :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: matthew on May 26, 2007, 12:00:42 pm
No! The youtube version doesn't have the scream on it!
https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=77
much better and less techno.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: account_inactive on November 04, 2007, 12:27:51 pm
(http://joost.climbing.nl/rest/fredopium)

What a mess
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tommytwotone on November 04, 2007, 11:11:09 pm
I meant to post sooner about this, but last weekend I noticed that Parthian Shot was donkey lined up good style, with lines so big you could see them from the Burbage South boulders...is that really necessary?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy F on November 05, 2007, 11:14:31 am
There was some horrendous donkey ticking at Thorn Crag last week. No need for it at all  >:(
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: BenF on November 05, 2007, 12:18:42 pm
Andy, I think you'll find those are sheep up at Thorn Crag, not donkeys.  Either way we shouldn't be defacing dumb animals.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on November 05, 2007, 12:20:38 pm
There's not much that needs a mark at Thorn.  What problems were ticked, Andy?  Would have taken 2 minutes to brush off I bet.  At least this rain will clean them.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy F on November 05, 2007, 07:37:05 pm
Lots of stuff on the crag boulders, those slab problems were particularly badly ticked up.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on November 05, 2007, 08:48:55 pm
As in Fire Wall?  Jeez, someone needs new glasses.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: whispering nic on November 05, 2007, 10:25:05 pm
Aye it was ticktastic last week :furious: but most of it should wash off apart from yon steep 7b+ prow thing below the crag which needed some brushing. We coulda but didn't :spank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: chappers on November 06, 2007, 09:45:43 am
(http://joost.climbing.nl/rest/fredopium)

where and what is this please? looks good (apart from the ticks!)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on November 06, 2007, 09:54:31 am
I think its opium in font.
It is
http://bleau.info/recloses/974-23322.html
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Houdini on November 06, 2007, 10:01:17 am
I find Finnish boulderers particularly disrespectful to the rock:

(http://www.slouppi.net/contents/pics/Foto/E75_JamaicaRoof_Anton.jpg)

Jamaica Roof E75, Lahti.   The only sandstone in their country and they kill it with chalk, looks reasonably tick-free here.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 06, 2007, 10:26:13 am
Those lines on the left look particularly ugly and pointless as there are four of them pointing to every part of a big hold that is already very obvious. As it's covered in chalk. :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Houdini on November 06, 2007, 10:40:52 am
Dude, you could berth the Enterprise on that hold.


And they do it everywhere, I've not ever seen any attempt to remove chalk, post-climb. 
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Rice Boy on January 10, 2008, 10:31:54 am
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=78632 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=78632)

These two are just missing a circle in the middle for the full cats arse effect.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fatdoc on January 10, 2008, 10:49:06 am
now that's unbelievably unecessary.... all this stuff that's from abroad is poor, but THAT, THERE is soo out of order.

name and shame the perp I say.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 10, 2008, 11:02:21 am
or use the perp's face to scrub away the mess perhaps? I am sure that the rural artist involved will have cleaned their work off as soon as they had done the problem.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on January 10, 2008, 11:51:10 am
It is bollox.

The thing is....marking holds can be pretty useful. That's why people do it.

But what I don't fucking get is, why the hell do people think they need these fucking harsh enormous scraped on lines?? What is wrong with a little finger smudge or a single faint line, drawn with your finger rather than smeared on with a whole chalk lump?? It seems so fucking obvious to just put a little dab by the hold instead of an huge graffitied target....doing the latter would take some special effort to actually think of, let alone think it was a good idea...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on January 10, 2008, 12:50:24 pm
I am sure that the rural artist involved will have cleaned their work off as soon as they had done the problem.

That's just the thing. Like Fiend says they do help. Just many people can't seem to be arsed cleaning them off afterwards. Not sure if they think they are doing everyone else a favour by leaving it there?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on January 10, 2008, 02:32:04 pm
If I ever leave any on its purely forgetfullness
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Norton Sharley on January 10, 2008, 03:16:17 pm
Surely they only help when you can't actually see a hold, or need to hit a specific bit of a hold.  I mean if you can see it why do you need to tick it? 

If you as forgetful as me, and Jim, then you're onsighting every problem every go anyway, so you shouldn't have any ticks because you would blow the onsight every go!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on January 10, 2008, 07:32:12 pm
are you ryan?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: webbo on January 11, 2008, 08:39:38 am
with my age and general decrepiside.i can't see things so mark them up also i then forget rub them off.sometimes i even forget what i've gone to the crag for and just walk round drawing little lines.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jacqusie on January 11, 2008, 08:13:33 pm
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=78630



Spot the pebble

fuck me sideways...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jacqusie on January 11, 2008, 08:18:37 pm
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=77456


Christ - it gets worse - and he's not even off the ground!

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on January 11, 2008, 08:27:21 pm
At least he's trying to get off the ground eh. I don't think one needs a witch-hunt with other photos.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jacqusie on January 11, 2008, 08:37:06 pm
At least he's trying to get off the ground eh. I don't think one needs a witch-hunt with other photos.


irony never your strongest point Fiend - at least those donkey's are pretty lookin...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Norton Sharley on January 15, 2008, 01:12:34 pm
with my age and general decrepiside.i can't see things so mark them up also i then forget rub them off.sometimes i even forget what i've gone to the crag for and just walk round drawing little lines.

with the other sort of white powder?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on January 15, 2008, 01:51:18 pm
this is wrong on so many levels:
not only it is a horrible way to tick a foothold, but also it means the most idiotic sequence to do that problem (unless you are 2 meters tall).
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2163/2195244746_3c680c83e4.jpg?v=0)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: webbo on January 15, 2008, 07:57:18 pm
maybe thats advanced donkey lining.you mark the holds that you don't use.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 15, 2008, 08:23:03 pm
this is wrong on so many levels:
not only it is a horrible way to tick a foothold, but also it means the most idiotic sequence to do that problem (unless you are 2 meters tall).
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2163/2195244746_3c680c83e4.jpg?v=0)
That's not been ticked, it has been crossed out to prevent people from using it by mistake - a stroke (well 2 really) of genius.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on February 21, 2008, 04:08:03 pm
It's a starting handhold...  :spank:

(http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/8241/picture002dl8.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on February 21, 2008, 04:18:36 pm
thats fucking awful. why? you don't even put your foot in there
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Serpico on February 21, 2008, 04:20:45 pm
Quote
It's a starting handhold...

Not if you're doing the sit start.
It's still unnacceptable though, as was the amount of tickage left on DWR after the weekend.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on February 21, 2008, 04:23:24 pm
Yeah DWR was fucked on friday. It was as if CAMP's factory had exploded and the fallout had settled on almscliff...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on February 21, 2008, 04:34:12 pm
Yeah DWR was fucked on friday. It was as if CAMP's factory had exploded and the fallout had settled on almscliff...

I have a vision of bits of axes & harnesses all over the place. I suspect that's not what you mean though ... ;D
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: monkey boy on February 21, 2008, 04:46:17 pm
Thats some of the worst tick marks i have seen and too not brush them off. Whoever it is should be shot! I thought Hueco was bad but fuck me!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on February 21, 2008, 07:13:23 pm
I tried to brush them off two days in a row but they just wouldn't budge...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Carnage on April 01, 2008, 11:45:58 pm
Time for a resurrection

Is he trying to count to 5 or something...

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2175/2374308967_4080711a35.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3190/2377058028_af3f5208e8.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Houdini on April 02, 2008, 09:57:13 am
RE:  The above.

1st pic looks difficult, V10/V11+, those holds look small and the terrain is steep; accuracy required.  Rock looks granitesque & grey (none too difficlut to clean afterwards).

Sandstone pic is a travesty, not the ticks which are tiny but the holds.  They look terrible and I think that rock as gorgeous and rich as this should be treated better and receive a thorough washing once in a while.  Why did sandstone/ferrous-coloured chalk die out?  It's better than that white stuff.

Climbers talk the talk about respecting the rock but I hardly ever see them whack their muck off afterwards, nevermind wash holds. 

Don't get me started on cigarette butts either!   >:(   Not cool!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on April 02, 2008, 10:15:10 am
Don't get me started on cigarette butts either!   >:(   Not cool!

I find the zip pocket on my chalk bag particularly handy for these.  Makes the chalk stink, but that in itself discourages me from using so much  :P
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Joepicalli on April 03, 2008, 12:36:40 am
What we have here is the development of a ritual. The extension of an initially ad hoc and almost certainly quite useful indication of "where the fucking hold is" to something done to invoke the hold's presence after the 300th failure to do the problem. Ticking a hold is now like chalking up: you don't do it because you need to but because it is part of the psyching for doing the problem. 
You could PhD's on this shit
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Houdini on April 03, 2008, 07:04:36 am
It's obscene . . .

. . . that climbers believe they are the most appropriate guardians of rocky places, and that perhaps they are the only group to use them.  I wonder what other people - in the Peak, for example - think of the filth we leave on such gorgeous brown and green rocks?  The fag and joint stubs; chalk wrappers; empty cans etc..  Climbers are extraordinarily selfish in this respect ie: the lack of.  Not to say we are the only abusers of special places, but really - so much of this destructive behaviour is avoidable.

And yes, I do have a hangover!  :furious:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fatdoc on April 03, 2008, 09:41:36 am
It's obscene . . .

. . . that climbers believe they are the most appropriate guardians of rocky places, and that perhaps they are the only group to use them.  I wonder what other people - in the Peak, for example - think of the filth we leave on such gorgeous brown and green rocks?  The fag and joint stubs; chalk wrappers; empty cans etc..  Climbers are extraordinarily selfish in this respect ie: the lack of.  Not to say we are the only abusers of special places, but really - so much of this destructive behaviour is avoidable.

And yes, I do have a hangover!  :furious:


As on outdoor user group we do ourselves little favour I agree..

I too have the effects of a rather good evening resonating through my skull. Now remember why I rarely drink red wine...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Idol eyes on April 03, 2008, 10:07:21 am
Coloured chalk?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on April 03, 2008, 10:18:11 am
I seem to remember coloured chalk was tried years ago but never took off.  I guess you'd need a different colour for each different rock type etc etc

A lot easier to use less chalk and brush it off afterwards.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Idol eyes on April 03, 2008, 10:28:15 pm
Coloured chalk?
Jus Kiddin!
Think they tried coulored bolts too, in Heuco?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on April 04, 2008, 08:13:10 am
I've seen (or not seen) coloured bolts in a few places.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Zods Beard on April 04, 2008, 09:51:35 am
What we have here is the development of a ritual. The extension of an initially ad hoc and almost certainly quite useful indication of "where the fucking hold is" to something done to invoke the hold's presence after the 300th failure to do the problem. Ticking a hold is now like chalking up: you don't do it because you need to but because it is part of the psyching for doing the problem. 
You could PhD's on this shit

 :agree:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on April 05, 2008, 10:49:47 am
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2416/2388726127_13b4c68862_o.jpg)

It's a f*cking jug you C*NTS

This sort of crap always happens when it's been dry for a while and people think caley might be a go. Respect the crag.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on April 05, 2008, 04:44:15 pm
I can understand a small tick for the top but not one massive one on that bit!  :spank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: The Sausage on April 06, 2008, 05:14:13 pm
I think you rarely need more than a spot to indicate direction. why do you need the marks to go all the way to the hold? you can't see it anyway. has nobody else thought to use a bit of finger tape instead of chalk - i did this on the keel to universal derision. until i peeled it off leaving No Mark Whatsoever...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: monkey boy on April 06, 2008, 05:17:15 pm
RE:  The above.

1st pic looks difficult, V10/V11+, those holds look small and the terrain is steep; accuracy required.  Rock looks granitesque & grey (none too difficlut to clean afterwards).

Sandstone pic is a travesty, not the ticks which are tiny but the holds.  They look terrible and I think that rock as gorgeous and rich as this should be treated better and receive a thorough washing once in a while.  Why did sandstone/ferrous-coloured chalk die out?  It's better than that white stuff.

Climbers talk the talk about respecting the rock but I hardly ever see them whack their muck off afterwards, nevermind wash holds. 

Don't get me started on cigarette butts either!   >:(   Not cool!

Its schule des lebans (8a+/b) or no mystery (8a/+) at chironico!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: The Sausage on April 06, 2008, 05:27:40 pm
ps, have you seen the 'arrow' down to the toe hook in the ju ju club picture? who is this retard?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 08, 2008, 01:04:34 pm
Went to have a look at Arabesque and Eclipse the other day. I have never seen such a fucking mess. It was quite depressing. The pocket round the lip on Arabesque had about ten thick chalk lines pointing to it and everything else was also ticked to fuck. We talked about taking a picture for this thread but I forgot.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 08, 2008, 02:23:37 pm
Went to have a look at Arabesque and Eclipse the other day. I have never seen such a fucking mess. It was quite depressing. The pocket round the lip on Arabesque had about ten thick chalk lines pointing to it and everything else was also ticked to fuck. We talked about taking a picture for this thread but I forgot.

The whole block had a dirty, graffitied, shat-on urban look to it that made me glad to walk away from it. Very dissapointing (and my arms hurt too much to pull on anyway).

Edit - some of the mess was actually graffiti about stopping using chalk.  :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Houdini on April 08, 2008, 02:33:44 pm
Shame.  When I was there in Dec' a Japanese party were sieging the bloc in the damp.  The amount of chalk used was horrific.  You can see why it pisses-off Bleausards.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 08, 2008, 02:36:08 pm

Edit - some of the mess was actually graffiti about stopping using chalk.  :shrug:

Yeah written in some sort of orange crayon right accross the white slab of rock on Eclipse. What the fuck?  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tommytwotone on April 08, 2008, 06:27:54 pm
We too were out last week - the orange graffiti said "STOP MAGNESIE" and we saw it in a variety of places - the Toit De Cul De Chien roof, L'Autre Toit Roof and on a random bloc next to Le Flippeur at 91.1. Some wag had covered the TDCDC writing in chalk.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: grumpycrumpy on April 10, 2008, 06:13:31 am
RE:  The above.

1st pic looks difficult, V10/V11+, those holds look small and the terrain is steep; accuracy required.  Rock looks granitesque & grey (none too difficlut to clean afterwards).

Sandstone pic is a travesty, not the ticks which are tiny but the holds.  They look terrible and I think that rock as gorgeous and rich as this should be treated better and receive a thorough washing once in a while.  Why did sandstone/ferrous-coloured chalk die out?  It's better than that white stuff.

Climbers talk the talk about respecting the rock but I hardly ever see them whack their muck off afterwards, nevermind wash holds. 

Don't get me started on cigarette butts either!   >:(   Not cool!
  I use a great little pocket-sized device called a stubbi for disposing of my tab ends , available to all at www.stubbi.com ....... Considered giving up the filthy habit but  I'm still cold turkeying from lack of alcohol and I'm no good at multi-tasking .....
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mini on April 11, 2008, 08:00:36 pm
May be not the most offensive, but this has really got my goat!

Went to Wrights rock last weekend to see tick  marks on almost every foot and handhold. Me and Andi brushed them all off, but on returning today they were back with a vengence! And back on A BLOODY JUG! AAAAHHHHHH! WHY!!!!

Can whoever it is please stop it, use your bloody eyes, theres enough chalk on the hold itself to see where it is, and the marks didn't even point to the best part of the jug!!!!

At least its not as bad as last years R and L being chalked on Wrights traverse  ;D

(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa21/martind_02/Climbing%20stuff/DSC00217.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nathan wind on April 11, 2008, 08:28:04 pm
It's obscene . . .

. . . that climbers believe they are the most appropriate guardians of rocky places, and that perhaps they are the only group to use them.  I wonder what other people - in the Peak, for example - think of the filth we leave on such gorgeous brown and green rocks?  The fag and joint stubs; chalk wrappers; empty cans etc..  Climbers are extraordinarily selfish in this respect ie: the lack of.  Not to say we are the only abusers of special places, but really - so much of this destructive behaviour is avoidable.

And yes, I do have a hangover!  :furious:


don't get me started on this... the amount of crap climbers leave behind both disappoints and really pisses me off.. I've started taking a plazzy bag with me whenever I go out just to pick other peoples rubbish... so far this week I've picked up sweet wrappers at the base of brad pit, fag ends, tape and crisp packets from two squirrels / the drey.. clearly in this instance its boulderers.. but I can't for the life of me understand it.. I stopped thinking dropping litter made me cool when I was about thirteen..
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jed on April 11, 2008, 10:41:19 pm
Glad to here someone is clearing up the crags out there.

Me and a mate filled 2 plastic bags with litter in the summer at Almscliff.

I sound like an old bastard but litter and graffiti at crags drives me fucking mad!!!

 :rtfm:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on April 15, 2008, 09:22:03 am
Pointless marking at New Mills Tor...
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2399/2415067293_a01b21ca1c.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/2415067293/)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Houdini on April 15, 2008, 09:24:29 am
Are you sure that isn't Anasazi artwork?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2008, 04:10:08 pm
We too were out last week - the orange graffiti said "STOP MAGNESIE" and we saw it in a variety of places - the Toit De Cul De Chien roof, L'Autre Toit Roof and on a random bloc next to Le Flippeur at 91.1. Some wag had covered the TDCDC writing in chalk.

And one month on it's still there. Anyone know what the deal is? Some person with a beef? Or just kids. I noticed in true graffiti style it said "STOP MAGESIE" in one place. never saw it other than in that area though.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Houdini on May 05, 2008, 07:06:14 pm
"STOP MAGESIE"

I would've loved to have been there a la Life of Brian in my centurion uniform w/ spear and caught them red-handed: given the illiterate cunts a lesson they'd never forget in Gallic spelling . . .

(http://www.romaneseuntdomus.net/forum/templates/lunazstyle/images/logo_phpBB.gif)

Now write it out a hundred times!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on May 05, 2008, 07:19:14 pm
people called romans they go into the house?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tlr on May 05, 2008, 10:12:18 pm
The Nose at Burbage West had huge tick marks on every hold the other night. Each mark was at least 4 inches long and an inch wide. I could see them clearly from the road as I drove past at 39mph (and no more officer). Ridiculous.

Hopefully they'll have been washed off now by the rain.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: account_inactive on May 05, 2008, 11:26:41 pm
WTF do you need to tickmark on the nose?  You can see all the holds.  Maybe this is due to people climbing on grit when it's hot and humid (eh saltbeef :lol:)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on May 06, 2008, 08:35:21 am
people called romans they go into the house?

romanii eust unt?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Peanuts on May 06, 2008, 09:55:22 am
CENTURION:  Now, wash it off a hundred times.
Punter:   Yes, sir. Thank you, sir. Hail Caesar, sir.
CENTURION: Hail Caesar. If it's not done by sunrise, I'll cut your balls off.


I paraphrase  ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on May 06, 2008, 10:28:12 am
CENTURION:  Now, wash it off write it out a hundred times.
Punter:   Yes, sir. Thank you, sir. Hail Caesar, sir.
CENTURION: Hail Caesar. If it's not done by sunrise, I'll cut your balls off.


I paraphrase  ;) (badly)

:)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Peanuts on May 06, 2008, 10:36:10 am
It was a toss up ... to go with the original or something just slightly related to bouldering, after all we wouldn't want the little buggers chalking up a hundred more donkey stripes  ::)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on May 30, 2008, 01:15:14 pm
Last week I saw a tick mark on the pocket of Hank's wall.  Luckily I brushed it off, and later it rained and washed it away.
Then I went back yesterday and it was back:

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2137/2535561009_06c22868c1.jpg)

WTF??  It's an obvious pocket, even when doing Hank's.
I doubt it was anyone on here, but whoever did it- please don't.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on May 30, 2008, 01:25:32 pm
maybe its some jesus-heads. or some patriotic swiss attempting a crude rendition of their national ensign.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on June 01, 2008, 05:30:23 pm
I'm more concerned about the amount of chalk leaking out of Layback, WTF?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on June 01, 2008, 05:43:31 pm
It isn't leaking, someone had marked the arete 'cos it's not at all obvious normally  ::)
There's a guy that regularly puffs each hold with a chalk ball, this is partly what you can see on Parr's.  No advantage to doing it, I've no idea why he wastes his chalk.
Idiots.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Kingy on September 01, 2008, 06:50:05 pm
(http://www2.snapfish.co.uk/slideshow/AlbumID=238717960/PictureID=5678860097/a=72146871_72146871/t_=72146871)

Check out this dog show. You travel halfway around the globe some of the best sandstone on the planet and are confronted by this. Ulan Batar, a classic 7b of Rocklands defaced thus. My companion's expression tells it all.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Kingy on September 01, 2008, 06:53:12 pm
Does anybody know how to make my image work properly? I have tried putting the Snapfish web address inbetween two 'img' marks above but it didn't work  :-\. the web address is:

http://www2.snapfish.co.uk/slideshow/AlbumID=238717960/PictureID=5678860097/a=72146871_72146871/t_=72146871 (http://www2.snapfish.co.uk/slideshow/AlbumID=238717960/PictureID=5678860097/a=72146871_72146871/t_=72146871)

Thanks in advance.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 01, 2008, 07:01:37 pm
Does anybody know how to make my image work properly? I have tried putting the Snapfish web address inbetween two 'img' marks above but it didn't work  :-\. the web address is:

http://www2.snapfish.co.uk/slideshow/AlbumID=238717960/PictureID=5678860097/a=72146871_72146871/t_=72146871 (http://www2.snapfish.co.uk/slideshow/AlbumID=238717960/PictureID=5678860097/a=72146871_72146871/t_=72146871)

Thanks in advance.

(http://render-2.snapfish.com/render2/is=Yup6aQQ%7C%3Dup6RKKt%3Axxr%3D0-qpDofRt7Pf7mrPfrj7t%3DzrRfDUX%3AeQaQxg%3Dr%3F87KR6xqpxQQeoxPJlxaePxv8uOc5xQQQlee00lQlQJqpfVtB%3F*KUp7BHSHqqy7XH6gX0Qooe%7CRup6lQQ%7C/of=50,480,360)

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Kingy on September 01, 2008, 07:50:45 pm
Thanks Adam. I can only see a big red square where the picture should be but maybe my PC is not configured properly.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on September 01, 2008, 08:47:23 pm
It is a red, 4 sided shape for me also.

(http://render-2.snapfish.com/render2/is=Yup6aQQ%7C%3Dup6RKKt%3Axxr%3D0-qpDofRt7Pf7mrPfrj7t%3DzrRfDUX%3AeQaQxg%3Dr%3F87KR6xqpxQQeoxPJlxaePxv8uOc5xQQQlee00lQlQJqpfVtB%3F*KUp7BHSHqqy7XH6gX0Qooe%7CRup6lQQ%7C/of=50,480,360)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on September 01, 2008, 08:47:52 pm
Works in preview though  :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 02, 2008, 08:45:25 am
Kudos wall was a right mess on Friday. Tsunami / BSD were ticked to fuck with big smeary chunks of chalk on everything that might have been a foothold and the top of Hot Fun looked like a bird had been shitting all over it.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: grumpycrumpy on September 02, 2008, 08:49:26 am
and the top of Hot Fun looked like a bird had been shitting all over it.
Maybe she got scared ....
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: stom on September 02, 2008, 08:59:07 am
T - Crack also looked bad last weekend- the top slopey dish had a 3 foot line down to the break! Absolutely no need  >:(
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cowboyhat on September 26, 2008, 06:11:44 pm
Dr F with some of his own handy work.

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3092/2889645523_69ef0fdde3.jpg)




And the problem is?

(Jim that question is not open to you).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: chillax on September 26, 2008, 06:25:31 pm
Was climbing with an austrian bloke the other day. Apparently they call them "landing strips" over there. Gives some idea of their thinking eh......  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on September 26, 2008, 07:10:58 pm

And the problem is?


Jerry's arete at the bridey's - is that a recent pic? haven't been up for years because the rock's getting so fucked by climbing.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nik at work on September 26, 2008, 07:17:43 pm
It's a disgrace up there. I live 5 mins drive away and have been probably less than half a dozen times in the last twelve months, it's just depressing....
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cowboyhat on September 26, 2008, 07:42:23 pm
Taken on Wednesday. It is pretty sandy, we had a good day though.

Luckily we had a team flash of everything we tried, keeping erosion to a minimum.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: AndiT on September 29, 2008, 05:29:03 pm
Some beauties from the much discussed 'Cornelius' at Ina's Rock. It looks like they've been brushed clean, but as the crag gets no direct rain they'll probably remain til the next ice age!

(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/andi_turner/DSC00719.jpg)

Oh, and perhaps for a different thread, belayer of shame! Hang your head :spank:

(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/andi_turner/DSC00734.jpg)

Good job the rock's solid up there! :lol:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on September 29, 2008, 05:50:46 pm
 :o Good job I didn't look down
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on September 29, 2008, 06:04:44 pm
:o Good job I didn't look down

to find he was dressed like a woman? he looks like he's about to tell you denial is not just a river in egypt.

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on September 29, 2008, 07:28:55 pm
someone toproping a boulder problem?
whatever next
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 30, 2008, 08:28:49 am
My bad. We forgot to brush them off.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on September 30, 2008, 08:31:50 am
someone toproping a boulder problem?
whatever next
No. Leading a route
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on September 30, 2008, 11:23:07 am
Or effectively soloing one, with that belay! ;)

The link??
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: neil h on September 30, 2008, 07:13:16 pm
check this shit

some fuker, has no sense on a piss easy problem at sabots today

to the biggest jug off all aswell

(http://www.maisonbleau.com/tickmark.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Munkii on September 30, 2008, 08:12:36 pm
to need a tick mark that big for that hold you must be either blind or reatarded






...or both
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 01, 2008, 08:07:49 am
The worst thing is (if that's the 6B+ thing I think it is) you can't see that hold when you're reaching round for it anyway, the ridiculous tick mark wouldn't even help!  :wall:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: neil h on October 01, 2008, 08:59:36 am
The worst thing is (if that's the 6B+ thing I think it is) you can't see that hold when you're reaching round for it anyway, the ridiculous tick mark wouldn't even help!  :wall:

yes it probably is the 6b you are thinking of, complete waste of time, I was so fucked off when I saw it. The worst thing is it was a very fresh mark as it was raining and the rocks were saturated
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on October 01, 2008, 09:41:14 am
The worst thing is (if that's the 6B+ thing I think it is) you can't see that hold when you're reaching round for it anyway, the ridiculous tick mark wouldn't even help!  :wall:

I thought that just looking at and haven't even been/climbed the problem.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 01, 2008, 09:50:25 am
 ::) shows how much you lot know about bouldering. Those tick marks are there to help with Chapeau Chinois Super Direct. The jug is in, but you are not allowed to use common sense, beta or technique. L2+. This is a long term project so I hope no one has stolen that carfully placed chalk render.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Plattsy on October 01, 2008, 10:09:54 am
I took a photo of a couple of tick marks I found at Sabots earlier this year but deleted it by mistake. It was a double wammy. I think it was on a roof problem to the left of red #2. There was a massive arrow of chalk pointing down to a little hole at the base of the boulder, I guess for a toe hook. There was also a massive arrow along the roof to the hold pass the lip. Crossing the arrow was a line of chalk and the following words "Ici 30cm".

 :spank: :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Dr T on October 01, 2008, 12:50:47 pm
"Ici 30cm".
from a teachers perspective that's almost encouraging the kids are generally poor at remembering to include their units......
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Drew on October 03, 2008, 11:37:17 pm
Ok so his arm's in a cast (or something), but still. Three massive ticks, pointing at what exactly?

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/116/255017635_17fa8fe20e.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/wiklund/255017969/in/set-72157594303552170/)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on October 04, 2008, 05:28:46 pm
is that helicopter?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: philo on October 04, 2008, 09:22:24 pm
looks like it
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Drew on October 06, 2008, 12:42:02 am
is that helicopter?

Yus. I think I made the pic into a link to the page too.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on November 21, 2008, 03:27:14 pm
In Albarracin (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9027.0.html) of all places  :spank: :rtfm:

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3239/3043266694_85974121e2.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/redchili/3043266694/)

To be fair I think the arrow does add to the composition of the photo, but to do so in an area where there are access issues which in part stem from over use of chalk is just plain ignorant, but who knows, maybe they are good boulderers and brushed off their tick marks and arrows afterwards  :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on November 21, 2008, 03:34:25 pm
he's also on that dyno wall that as far as I'm aware you're not allowed to climb on cos its in plain view of the road and only about 15ft from said carriageway.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: chillax on November 21, 2008, 06:20:03 pm
and from this angle it looks like something very nasty has happened to his left arm
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on November 23, 2008, 08:54:37 pm
and from this angle it looks like something very nasty has happened to his left arm

Live in hope, if he is really somewhere where he shouldn't be.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on November 24, 2008, 02:02:55 pm
It seems the inspiration of Master's Edge being onsighted fairly regularly recently hasn't filtered down to the unwashed masses as much as it should. So it's back to headpointing by numbers for numpties. Or is that headpointing by numpties for numbers????

Crap phone photos btw.

(http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/metickslower.jpg)

(http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/meticksupper.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: butters on November 26, 2008, 11:36:41 am
Found this "little" beauty on my phone last night - I think that it was in the Congo Corner area at Stanage. Quite why this was donkey ticked in such a garish fashion is unknown as the hold is at eye level while stood on the ground and is quite probably big enough to see from the road!

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3051/3060369085_59a8d1a034.jpg?v=0)

bluebrad
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: rich d on January 12, 2009, 01:46:33 pm
Found this while deleting phone photos.

(http://www.photobox.co.uk/my/photo?album_id=91061691&photo_id=1569441899)

It was on that 6a on the side of the dog at Burgbage South. As usual it doesn't even look as if it'd any use, it took bloody ages to brush it off, longer than it did to belly flop/side roll the top out.  
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on January 12, 2009, 02:55:13 pm
... it took bloody ages to brush it off...

Well you did a grand job of brushing it off there Rich as I can't see it  :P

There ya go....


(http://img3014.photobox.co.uk/38615674679b968cef8b27ebaa3d4f0e8d9236df62634b37f452fe2fa193612691336bdd.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: rich d on January 12, 2009, 04:43:06 pm
cheers :oops:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on February 02, 2009, 11:15:14 am
It is the year 2009. Grit E8 is now being flashed and even onsighted. No doubt E7 onsights are more common-place. Old-skool death solos are often highballed.

It's over a decade since Dave Jones fell off Braille Trail and got away unscathed. More recently a teenage boy has fallen off near the top of Grandad's Slab (closer to the inital ledge) unscathed, and effectively done the top crux of Braille Trail solo.

So what are people doing this days, in this climate of climbing progress and increased stylistic quality??

(http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/brailletraildickmarks.jpg)

Tick marks?? Dick marks more like.

Also a big yawn goes out to the people dogging the hell out of the multiply-ground-upped Messiah  :yawn:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Danger on February 02, 2009, 07:12:28 pm
It was Katy "should be in DFBWGC" Whittaker, as she is a lass and headpointing E7 is still cutting edge-ish for the ladies does that make it ok?

 :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on February 02, 2009, 07:18:48 pm
Certainly the same ticks can still be seen in the photo of her doing it over on UKC. Nonetheless another good 'tick' in what is turning out to be a classic season.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on February 02, 2009, 09:21:36 pm
It was Katy "should be in DFBWGC" Whittaker, as she is a lass and headpointing E7 is still cutting edge-ish for the ladies does that make it ok?
It alleviates the irritation a little bit, yes, solely for the reason you give. Even so, I personally would expect / hope (and indeed enthusiastically praise) better things in this day and age, given her flash of Nosferatu, and given the aforementioned falls off this bit of rock. The above is all a bit....join the dots.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on February 02, 2009, 09:53:42 pm
The above is all a bit....join the dots.

 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 20, 2009, 10:26:16 pm
Paul Worsdale at Burbage West yesterday, 'appalled' at the treatment of West Side Story.

(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/wess_mess.jpg)

Its a fucking disgrace.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Mike Tyson on February 20, 2009, 10:35:40 pm
Is Mr Worsdale sporting a goaty these days??!! Tell him that's more appalling than the state of WSS!!!   ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on February 21, 2009, 06:41:43 am
who's this Paul Worsdale?

yes it was a fucking disgrace (worms beard attempt and wss)

that photo doesn't really do it justice tbh, it was a fuckin disgrace,
It looked like mini-me had been sieging percy's sit start
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on February 21, 2009, 10:06:37 am


(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/wess_mess.jpg)

Is that grief of a sailor, or Cornish guilt?

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Shy Yorkshireman on February 21, 2009, 03:28:50 pm
In Katies defence she had nowt to do with the ticks, some cock muncher, had put them on before we arrived, Let it be said he knew he was in the wrong by the time he left! "fuck me mate you won't fuck your feet up will you." And "your not thinking of leaving them on are you?, and "oh it's ok that nice girls going to ab down and clean up your mess." "you dick" think he got the message. Would have taken his pic if i'd have had a camera.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Zods Beard on February 21, 2009, 04:09:20 pm

(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/wess_mess.jpg)


I assume you used photoshop to make him look taller.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 21, 2009, 06:58:21 pm
You think he looks tall there? His hands are level with the starting FOOTholds.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Zods Beard on February 21, 2009, 07:16:31 pm
You think he looks tall there? His hands are level with the starting FOOTholds.

Point proven!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on February 23, 2009, 12:22:34 pm
i don't really understand. what is all the fuss about? it looks like it always does except with 2 more holds chalked.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mini on February 23, 2009, 12:26:22 pm
You think he looks tall there? His hands are level with the starting FOOTholds.

I'm more taken aback by the ground erosion, Worms knees are nearly where the ground used to be!

Mind you, he's probably a bad stick to measure from ;D
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on February 23, 2009, 01:54:43 pm

I'm more taken aback by the ground erosion, Worms knees are nearly where the ground used to be!


Hadn't noticed that until you poited it out. I'm sure when I was there (late 90s) the rocks by his right foot were a mere lump.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Plattsy on August 06, 2009, 06:26:44 pm
I took a photo of a couple of tick marks I found at Sabots earlier this year but deleted it by mistake. It was a double wammy. I think it was on a roof problem to the left of red #2. There was a massive arrow of chalk pointing down to a little hole at the base of the boulder, I guess for a toe hook. There was also a massive arrow along the roof to the hold pass the lip. Crossing the arrow was a line of chalk and the following words "Ici 30cm".

 :spank: :thumbsdown:

Found them.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3483/3795855508_882b8c8316.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/41040072@N07/)

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2638/3795856110_9763c214fa.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/41040072@N07/)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on August 07, 2009, 08:25:43 am
Must be a pisstake. Amazing if not.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 21, 2009, 06:23:37 pm
Quote
Any one want to own up to this attrocity? Must have occurred yesterday, when it was drizzling  :roll: 
Problems like this should not be attempted when damp as they have fragile holds and pebbles which are weak when wet.
And as it has now been climbed ground-up, top-roping should be out, particularly to the ludicrous extent evidenced below.

(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/careless.jpg)

Just had a report that the idiots are back - apparently this time the mess is even worse.

I'll pre-empt any idiot's retort with this:

The top of Careless is fragile. The holds are easily damaged, especially when damp.

The start is a knack move - if you do it once you will be able to do it again.

You do not need to worry about the top until you have proven you can do the start. Several folk have now climbed this ground-up - to climb it in any other style is POOR STYLE.

Covering it in chalk and ticks off a rope is totally unneccessary. Toproping the top in the vain hope you may one day fluke it through the start and wobble on to glory is for feeble-minded fools who need to take a long hard look at their own ability and lack of ambition.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on October 21, 2009, 09:09:24 pm
Good thread rzarection.

Copped this on the weekend. No tickmakrs but a ridiculous amount of chalk. I can only assume this also is the work of toproping since its hard to imagine anyone good enough to hang around on this thing on the lead long enough to cake it in chalk this badly would need to much chalk at this time of year. we tried to clean all the lower stuff off but short of using a jetwash i couldn't make any headway.

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/Abkb_chalk.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on October 21, 2009, 10:35:23 pm
Found the culprit...

(http://inapcache.boston.com/universal/site_graphics/blogs/bigpicture/agwc_10_14/a04_20712315.jpg) (http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2009/10/artistic_gymnastics_world_cham.html)

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on October 22, 2009, 10:03:49 am
bloody gymnasts.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy B on October 22, 2009, 01:18:20 pm
I can only assume this also is the work of toproping
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/Abkb_chalk.jpg)

I'd have thought that if it was chalked from a top rope, the undercut out left would be similarly caked?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on October 22, 2009, 01:22:33 pm
possibly, it was chalked you just can't see it in that photo. maybe it was topropers who were a bit shit? on the same day we saw 2 german guys seiging norferatu on a rope and struggling with the moves.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy B on October 22, 2009, 01:27:42 pm
There were two people struggling to top rope Nosferatu last weekend too. I seem to see far more people top roping on Burbage South than other crags (not that I have any particular beef with people top roping).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on October 22, 2009, 01:27:45 pm
maybe it was topropers who were a bit shit?

 :lol:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on October 22, 2009, 01:31:55 pm
There were two people struggling to top rope Nosferatu last weekend too. I seem to see far more people top roping on Burbage South than other crags (not that I have any particular beef with people top roping).

I think its the aspiring/wannabee hard grit climbers crag of choice.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mini on October 25, 2009, 08:38:24 pm
Newstones today;

(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa21/martind_02/Climbing%20stuff/DSC_1980.jpg)

Similar ridiculous markings were found on The Vein and The Ripple problems. Idiots!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Eddies on October 25, 2009, 08:57:31 pm
Freshers!  :spank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 25, 2009, 09:12:55 pm
That's runic script for "front bottom"
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on October 26, 2009, 06:23:09 am
Freshers!  :spank:

Assumptions?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 26, 2009, 11:40:33 am
Just heard UKC have received a few pics of Careless last week (not from me). Prepare to be appalled - I think a new lowpoint has been reached here.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Eddies on October 26, 2009, 12:06:49 pm
Freshers!  :spank:

Assumptions?

Guesstimated... Mini and I went up there last w/end and the place was swarming with 30+ students/young folk (Liverpool uni minibus in layby) so we passed thro to Baldstones.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on October 26, 2009, 12:08:38 pm
Just heard UKC have received a few pics of Careless last week (not from me). Prepare to be appalled - I think a new lowpoint has been reached here.

saw it at the weekend. fucking horrendous.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Eddies on October 26, 2009, 12:11:13 pm
(http://cdn.ukclimbing.com/i/127920.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: butters on October 26, 2009, 12:23:42 pm
(http://cdn.ukclimbing.com/i/127920.jpg)

Nice looking problem (with the exception of the tickmarks that are blighting it) - what is it?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 26, 2009, 12:28:06 pm
Careless torque, some esoteric offering
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: butters on October 26, 2009, 12:30:04 pm
Careless torque, some esoteric offering

I am attributing that monumental show of stupidity by myself down to being ill at the minute.  :'(
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on October 26, 2009, 12:34:15 pm
The double tickmarks on the jug after the finishing jug are the real icing on the cake!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 26, 2009, 12:36:23 pm
From that angle you can't see the donkey lines on the left hand side - 2, each a foot long. Still there yesterday.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Idol eyes on October 26, 2009, 12:45:38 pm
Its not exactly an obvious line is it!!!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on October 26, 2009, 12:49:14 pm
That is a fucking travesty!

Freshers!  :spank:

Assumptions?

Guesstimated... Mini and I went up there last w/end and the place was swarming with 30+ students/young folk (Liverpool uni minibus in layby) so we passed thro to Baldstones.

Fair-do's I just hate the way some people trout out "bloody students" who are just normal people who happen to be spending part of their life studying for a degree.  Really it should be "twats who can't work problems without daubbing chalk all over them and neglect to brush off any tickmarks they have put on when they've finished" (but I acknowledge thats a few more keystrokes :P )
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on October 26, 2009, 12:55:07 pm
I hate it when people trout it out too :)

The CT pics are so sad it's almost funny. Almost.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 26, 2009, 02:24:17 pm
It's one of the consequences of the ethic of working routes, eg headpointed HVS's.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: travs on October 26, 2009, 02:37:24 pm
OK so lets get down to the real question. Who did this? Someone must have seen this happening so what do people know?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 26, 2009, 02:43:35 pm
You're right, let's name and shame, because you know anyone boneheaded enough to do this won't be too far away from over zealous use of a wire brush or chisel.

My bet it we'll find a clue on red tips, or am I just being nasty?  I'll report back in 5
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on October 26, 2009, 03:14:29 pm
It has to be someone clueless, foreign or both
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 26, 2009, 03:17:19 pm
Why foreign?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on October 26, 2009, 03:31:00 pm
 Sorry, did I steal your line?  ;)
Take a look around Font, Magic Wood, Albaracin, etc... I don't know why, they just do.
It's hard to imagine a local having reached the standard needed to be doing CT without becomeing aware that this sort of thing is a disgrace. It's easier to believe someone might have got that strong somewhere where heavy tickmarking is not frowned on and then taken their bad habits on holiday.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on October 26, 2009, 03:40:19 pm
Yeah its the chinese gymnasts (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,1942.msg224521.html#msg224521).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: chummer on October 26, 2009, 03:50:16 pm
Shirley you're all wrong. This must be a piss take......double tick marks?? This has to be a wind up. :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 26, 2009, 04:02:25 pm
Sorry, did I steal your line?  ;)
Take a look around Font, Magic Wood, Albaracin, etc... I don't know why, they just do.
It's hard to imagine a local having reached the standard needed to be doing CT without becomeing aware that this sort of thing is a disgrace. It's easier to believe someone might have got that strong somewhere where heavy tickmarking is not frowned on and then taken their bad habits on holiday.

I may be many things but a xenophobe or racist I am not, nor am I accusing you of this. 

I too have seen plenty of donkey lines in font, often drawn by Brits and I've seen donkey lines all over the trackside boulder to the degree that it made me think David Blunkett had been out for a lantern session without the lantern.

I imagine that many of the new school of young hardmen would think that a few donkey lines are a price worth paying, either that or it's some deluded Walter type who's working the top session so they'll be ready when the get good enough to do the start.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on October 26, 2009, 05:07:22 pm
Holy fucking ringpiece.

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mark s on October 26, 2009, 05:42:59 pm
You're right, let's name and shame, because you know anyone boneheaded enough to do this won't be too far away from over zealous use of a wire brush or chisel.

My bet it we'll find a clue on red tips, or am I just being nasty?  I'll report back in 5

i reckon you on the right street there
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on October 26, 2009, 06:32:12 pm
It's like the grafitti of the countryside. I gotta say, what the fuck must non-climbers be thinking about this?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 26, 2009, 06:38:55 pm
More pics on the other channel (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=50009).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on October 26, 2009, 06:39:38 pm
All quite bizarre and unnecessary.... hopefully word will filter down to who-ever it is via here or from cocktalk...
Personally I doubt its the PGtips crowd - they may have been economical with the truth in the past regarding what was climbed etc.. but I would have thought they'd climbed at enough places to know whats what.. You've got to be really dense to not see anything wrong with these tick marks....

 
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 26, 2009, 06:59:54 pm
You've got to be really dense to not see anything wrong with these tick marks....

Oh i am sure Dense would have plenty to say  :lol:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 26, 2009, 08:34:37 pm
Can we have a general agreement that tick marks are not OK?

I mean - state it in all guide books that it makes an ascent not count and let everyone know that videos of people doing first ascents with tick marks will be ridiculed? Light tick marks are fine while you are working a problem, but if you can see the mark the send doesn't count.

I see this as the only way to stop front bottoms drawing on the crag.

I do worry about how much erosion might happen due to extinguishing tick marks.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on October 27, 2009, 08:26:01 am

I may be many things but a xenophobe or racist I am not, nor am I accusing you of this. 
Sorry, it was a cheap come back. No accusation intended.


Lager – Personally I wouldn't go so far regards tick marks. Using them makes you look stupid but doesn't invalidate an ascent. Using them for working something or ‘sending’ is the same in my eyes. The key issue is being minimalist with them so that on the odd occasion when you might feel you really need one a prob doesn't look horrific while you are on it and more crucially, properly removing them when you move on, even if you intend to come back later in the day.

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: rodma on October 27, 2009, 08:38:44 am

I may be many things but a xenophobe or racist I am not, nor am I accusing you of this. 
Sorry, it was a cheap come back. No accusation intended.


Lager – Personally I wouldn't go so far regards tick marks. Using them makes you look stupid but doesn't invalidate an ascent. Using them for working something or ‘sending’ is the same in my eyes. The key issue is being minimalist with them so that on the odd occasion when you might feel you really need one a prob doesn't look horrific while you are on it and more crucially, properly removing them when you move on, even if you intend to come back later in the day.

 :agree:

I'm guilty of using the odd tickmark, but only on a blind hold or hard to see foothold. I'm certainly not for puting huge tick-lines to every single hold on a problem, that's reeeeeeeeeedickyouluss
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 27, 2009, 08:46:36 am

I may be many things but a xenophobe or racist I am not, nor am I accusing you of this. 
Sorry, it was a cheap come back. No accusation intended.


Lager – Personally I wouldn't go so far regards tick marks. Using them makes you look stupid but doesn't invalidate an ascent. Using them for working something or ‘sending’ is the same in my eyes. The key issue is being minimalist with them so that on the odd occasion when you might feel you really need one a prob doesn't look horrific while you are on it and more crucially, properly removing them when you move on, even if you intend to come back later in the day.

I know it wasn't an accusation and as for cheap come backs, I'm to tight to go for anything but.

Anyway, I'm sure at times all our ethical copy books are blotted, however it's about degree; and this abortion is so extreme as to amount to a total breach of accepted standards.

The problem is what is seen as acceptable for the elite will, in the eyes of the chorus of idiots be seen as acceptable for the uber punter.  See the morons on COcktalk who think that because you can headpoint a serious grit E8 which has never been onsighted (or onsited in CT land) then it's equally valid to top rope Three Pebble Slab.

As such the onus is on the elite ( and of course us all) but particularly the media to be more responsible and adopt higher ethical standards, the first step would simply to not publish any photo's with donkey lines.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mark s on October 27, 2009, 11:16:42 am
not wanting to point any fingers but check out the tick marks here and the recent careless torque fiasco.http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=127987 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=127987)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on October 27, 2009, 11:31:08 am
I was up there last monday and those ticks (on BP) were there. I gotta say it was like join the dots for the right foot hold.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on October 27, 2009, 05:25:14 pm
OK, I've not tried BP - but there are only 4-5 holds used? yes?
Are ANY of them blind (i.e. might need a mark)?

Sigh. it only takes a few seconds to brush the ticks away afterwards if you make any...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: ferret on October 27, 2009, 05:31:04 pm
not wanting to point any fingers but check out the tick marks here and the recent careless torque fiasco.http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=127987 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=127987)
to be honest i dont think these are particularly bad, im pretty sure i ticked the 1st sidepull on bp wen i did it, the only problem is if u dont brush them off after, of which this photo offers no evidence.
seems exactly like finger pointing to me

careless torque photos are an absolute disgrace
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on October 27, 2009, 08:51:09 pm
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=127987 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=127987)

awesome, I lowered down off the top into this position for a photo in my trainers. Look at me!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 27, 2009, 10:05:43 pm
To be fair with over 25 years of climbing I have fewer than 10 decent climbing pictures, it is however a bit sus that no sub cocktalk red twats pictures ever have them actually nailing the moves.....

FFS BP is only about one move,
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: neil h on October 27, 2009, 10:08:51 pm
To be fair with over 25 years of climbing I have fewer than 10 decent climbing pictures, it is however a bit sus that no sub cocktalk red twats pictures ever have them actually nailing the moves.....

FFS BP is only about one move,


from the blog, a guy took pictures of the whole ascent, but only emailed the one were he actually downclimbed onto the jug  :-\
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Eddies on October 27, 2009, 10:11:29 pm
awesome, I lowered down off the top into this position for a photo in my trainers. Look at me!!!!!!!!!

My thoughts exactly!

Their happy to video themselves climbing a rusty fire escape but I see none of them completing any of the hard climbs they claim!
Sorry boys but :wank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Drew on October 27, 2009, 10:42:51 pm
Come now guys, this isn't a thread devoted to slagging off Red Tits, this is a thread about the monstrosities like CT as pictured previously. We can have an entire Red Tips Sucks Ass! thread if we want. Personally I'd rather just ignore them, and if they do anything stupid, then allow hell to break loose!

However I'd rather take a slightly more subtle approach to tickers. We were all beginners once upon a time (I know it was back in the annals of history Sloper), and the only way people learn what is right, and what is wrong, is by being told. I have ticked before, and not even thought about brushing them off (a long time ago), I have a friend who still doesn't understand why they should be unobtrusive, and brushed off afterwards. However we do both clear up after ourselves properly, and I have subtly asked people if they want to borrow my lapis to brush off the tickmarks they've left, just before they go.

I reckon it's better than slagging them off after they've left, complaining that they should know better, and posting photos on an internet thread, which they probably don't even look at.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on October 27, 2009, 10:54:03 pm
to be honest I don't really care if he's done it or not, just looks a bit very suspect and I thought it'd be rude not to take the piss.
Infact I am going to start climbing on my own more often and ticking some big numbers. Seems to work for saltbeef

I do tick-mark and still tick, small and only the minimum needed and I try to remember to brush off afterwards although I seem to forget quite often but luckily the rain will take care of what I forget. Must try harder

With regards to piss taking out of red tips etc... it seems most of us are approaching middle age and I for one am quite jealous of their yooffullness. Most of it is harmless and I think as yoofs they can take it, they just need to be carefull when starting claims about very big numbers as I (and many others) like the history books to be correct
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 27, 2009, 10:59:07 pm
Lager – Personally I wouldn't go so far regards tick marks. Using them makes you look stupid but doesn't invalidate an ascent.
Sadly being a berk doesn't mean you haven't actually climbed something, although it's quite a nice idea.
Also I'd use them if I couldn't sight something, although my short-sightedness isn't quite as bad as the photo-examples. And I'd probably clean them off too.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 27, 2009, 11:04:37 pm
awesome, I lowered down off the top into this position for a photo in my trainers. Look at me!!!!!!!!!

My thoughts exactly!

Their= they are= they're happy to video themselves climbing a rusty fire escape but I see none of them completing any of the hard grammar they claim!
Sorry boys but...
You can do better than this.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Drew on October 27, 2009, 11:08:04 pm
awesome, I lowered down off the top into this position for a photo in my trainers. Look at me!!!!!!!!!

My thoughts exactly!

Their >< they are = they're happy to video themselves climbing a rusty fire escape but I see none of them completing any of the hard grammar they claim!
Sorry boys but...
You can do better than this.

Shurely?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Eddies on October 27, 2009, 11:14:24 pm
Sorry, I get wound up easy by this type of thing. Their only cheating themselves at the end of the day.
I vow never to look at their site again.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Drew on October 27, 2009, 11:30:39 pm
Just a quick one back on the RT, LC, BP topic, I know it's not definitive (I got to this position about half a dozen times before finally doing it), but he is at least most of the way up it.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=128063 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=128063)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 27, 2009, 11:52:16 pm
I think the lines are getting blurred here. Let's leave the conjecture and bollocks about who's done what aside and look at the big picture.

The abuse of one of the greatest rock climbs in the Peak District is a disgrace that needs to be publicised.

This is firstly a beautiful piece of rock which has become a beautiful highball boulder problem.

The actions of whoever has done this have not only made a fucking mess, made climbers look like ruinous uncaring cunts and given more ammunition to the next landowner who wants to bar us from their property. They've also risked destroying the chance of someone climbing the problem in much better style than they are attempting to do by breaking holds on the fucking thing when it's dampness is making it even more fragile than it normally is.

This is wrong and a very big deal. Unlike the rest of the bollocks people are getting distracted by.

Someone must know who did this........
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on October 28, 2009, 12:51:28 am
Well said Drew & Jasper.

Sorry, I get wound up easy by this type of thing. Their only cheating themselves at the end of the day.
I vow never to look at their site again.

Their != they are

 :lol:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Drew on October 28, 2009, 01:06:05 am
Their != they are

 :lol:

That's coding language isn't it? I believe I went down the mathematical line of things with the >< (can also be written <> but looks a bit too much like parentheses).

EDIT: Sorry, that was  :off:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 28, 2009, 10:52:53 am
What Jasper said. In fact, exactly what Jasper said.

Jibing youths smacks of jealousy to me. I've no reason to think they're lying, nor connected to CT anymore than anyone else. In fact, Brad Pit in two sessions after climbing for 18 months smacks only of being a fucking massive talent.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: neil h on October 28, 2009, 11:01:18 am
anyway back on topic

8a key to success  :-\

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3033/3002487024_2dc6e5f972.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on October 28, 2009, 11:25:09 am
Their != they are

 :lol:

That's coding language isn't it? I believe I went down the mathematical line of things with the >< (can also be written <> but looks a bit too much like parentheses).

EDIT: Sorry, that was  :off:

Keepig things  :off:, yes it is coding for "not equal".  The thing about >< or <> is that it implies its a range either between two points or outside of two points.  The formal mathematical way (as opposed to coding) is to use ≠ (see here for more really boring mathematics crap (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_of_mathematical_symbols)).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 28, 2009, 02:55:03 pm
What Jasper said. In fact, exactly what Jasper said.

Jibing youths smacks of jealousy to me. I've no reason to think they're lying, nor connected to CT anymore than anyone else. In fact, Brad Pit in two sessions after climbing for 18 months smacks only of being a fucking massive talent.

I rather think that the proposition that they're lying stems from the fact that got caught out bullshitting about their claims in North Wales, that the fact that the photo is easier to stage than the problem is to climb and that there's aboslutely no photographs of them actually 'doing' anything hard.

I don't claim to be a top climber, but I can if challeneged *usually* repeat problems that I've done (unless it was years ago when I was younger, stronger, thinner, better etc) one exception was my thing at the Roaches and I was unable to even pull on the start, luckily SA Chris was there when I did it and did take some photo's and I can name at least one of the spotters.

Not being able to repeat things when there's mounting evidence that you're less than honest does nothing other than reinforce the validity of the accusation.

I'm not out to piss on anyone's chips, I just do, like Jim think that the historical record should be accurate.  Climbing BP within 18 months of starting climbing is a massive achievement which if true should be lauded, if it is not true it damages the value of the genuine achievements of truly talented people just as the use of doping in athletics erodes the awe in which we view people like Usain Bolt.

Anyway off to the gym
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on October 28, 2009, 03:02:00 pm
one exception was my thing at the Roaches and I was unable to even pull on the start, luckily SA Chris was there when I did it and did take some photo's and I can name at least one of the spotters.

Sam Hurt was the other, if the issue ever comes up, which I doubt it will.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 28, 2009, 03:05:31 pm
Sloper, are you not confusing the Copley brothers with Scott Mac? There's no doubt they are doing a lot of climbing at the mo, at that age that means improving fast.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 28, 2009, 03:21:07 pm
It would appear that he is unless I'm missing something.  :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nik at work on October 28, 2009, 04:00:19 pm
I agree with JB ans Jas on this one. The Copleys are seemingly very motivated and talented, Brad Pit in 18 months is impressive. Nice one lads, and one of them appears to have thrown laps on it, fuckin' show pony. We were all prone to bouts of "being a tit" when we were 18, fuck some of us still are in our middle years. Cut this pair a bit of slack. They climb Brad Pit and tick marks appear on CT in the same year, obviously they did it, WTF??

As for the tick marks on CT, they are obviously a disgrace.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on October 28, 2009, 04:24:20 pm
I now have an image of Dogtanian cutting some slack for the Copley’s with his rapier. Much like the apple which he so skilfully cuts to wafers in mid air. What a guy/dog!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on October 28, 2009, 04:43:36 pm
Even Dogtanian doesn't have what it takes to waferise an orange. I pity the apple.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nik at work on October 28, 2009, 04:59:46 pm
Apple, orange or Pear. Fruits firm, soft or citrus. Dogtanian can waferise them all.

(except for plums, stony bastards)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on October 28, 2009, 05:01:25 pm
Apple, orange or Pear. Fruits firm, soft or citrus. Dogtanian can waferise them all.

(except for plums, stony bastards)

Apricots?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on October 28, 2009, 05:01:51 pm
He can be my fucking guest with pears. I hate those sand-apple motherfuckers.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on October 28, 2009, 06:29:37 pm
sorry my fault for the yoof jibing scene, I was just taking the piss out of the photo - not intented to start all that stuff up again.

Fruit aside, I saw CT the other day and it looked awful, should put the pic in the new guide with FAIL written under it
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Doylo on October 28, 2009, 06:37:54 pm
I rather think that the proposition that they're lying stems from the fact that got caught out bullshitting about their claims in North Wales, that the fact that the photo is easier to stage than the problem is to climb and that there's aboslutely no photographs of them actually 'doing' anything hard.

We weren't happy with Mclellans claims not the Copley bros. I saw one of them do Rockatrocity.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 28, 2009, 07:36:08 pm
Ooops, getting all confused as to who has been 'spinning' about what.

Apologies to those concerned.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dr crimp on October 28, 2009, 10:16:43 pm
Had an after work sesh at gardoms tonight and G THANG looked a mess.for fooks sake who chalks up foot holds?i mean more chalked than hand holds.discarded finger tape ect!!!!it looked like dr who had poached it via tardis and transported it to a brush/bin/sense free zone.was a little pissed to see my local circut thoughtlessly abused.on the up side we sent two new lines.one 10m left of barry seen "swift nick"font 7a a cheeky but powerful little sitter and"the john player special"font7a+on the near side of the tunnel to iann,s 7c arete.this eliminates the right hand block but uses the left block for feet.slightly highball but sweet at the grade.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: highrepute on October 28, 2009, 11:20:29 pm
I'm not out to piss on anyone's chips, I just do, like Jim think that the historical record should be accurate.  Climbing BP within 18 months of starting climbing is a massive achievement which if true should be lauded, if it is not true it damages the value of the genuine achievements of truly talented people just as the use of doping in athletics erodes the awe in which we view people like Usain Bolt.

OT: but I'm not the only one. I was down stanage when said brothers did BP. I realised it was them so went over for a chat, they are infamous after all. Liam, who is the one in the pics, repeated it to help his brother with the beta. Have to say he made it look piss.

They were friendly lads and look to be getting very strong. They come across a bit annoying on the internet but I can think of few other people who also come across as gits online  :whistle:

Didn't want to have to post this cos I don't want to also be accused of being a liar as well, I'm not JB or at work and I don't have 32427 posts on here so why should you believe me. but I do think these guys should be cut some slack.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Drew on October 29, 2009, 12:46:21 am
for fooks sake who chalks up foot holds?

Apparently Gaz does. According to a friend of his, a chalked foothold looks like a bigger foothold. I personally think it reduces the friction (especially on Grit, or Sandstone), but what do I know in comparison to an E9, Font 8a+ (?) monster!


I'm not JB or at work and I don't have 32427 posts on here so why should you believe me...

+7 Karma is prob enough  ;)  ::)  :P
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on October 29, 2009, 07:52:18 am
so why should you believe me.

Cause your opinion is held in high repute?  :P
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on October 29, 2009, 08:08:07 am
There's a big difference between being annoying and saying dumb stuff, and being a liar.
It's not like the Copleys are claiming anything cutting edge, so let them get on with it.  Good effort to them getting up 7c/+ in their first couple of years of climbing.

I'm not JB or at work

Are you on drugs?  Noone believes a word that gnome says :lol:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: MorganW on October 29, 2009, 11:49:04 am
are these guys using climbing chalk or something a bit more heavy duty:

(https://www.popular.com.sg/images/product/stationery/16178.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on October 29, 2009, 11:54:35 am
(https://www.popular.com.sg/images/product/stationery/16178.jpg)

Thats chalk for Linux users     :P
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on October 29, 2009, 12:07:09 pm
(https://www.popular.com.sg/images/product/stationery/16178.jpg)

Thats chalk for Linux users     :P

Where can I get some?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: BB on October 29, 2009, 02:24:13 pm
Where can I get some?

No one knows, that's the problem Lagers. It's free though  :kiss2:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on October 29, 2009, 02:31:18 pm
Where can I get some?

No one knows, that's the problem Lagers. It's free though  :kiss2:

Though you may have to compile it first before you use it  ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jacqusie on October 29, 2009, 02:32:07 pm
I wonder if Bill the Stanage Warden know anything about this? I will enquire.

I echo everyones sentiments that this is a new low & we need to find the culprets. This cannot go on...

Si
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Falling Down on October 29, 2009, 04:44:11 pm
I wonder if Bill the Stanage Warden know anything about this? I will enquire.

Why Si?

I'm not suggesting we brush (no pun intended) under the carpet but what is telling Bill going to add? We ought to be sorting this out ourselves rather than pointing out to the wardens another example of how stupid the climbing community is.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on October 29, 2009, 05:04:32 pm
I wonder if Bill the Stanage Warden know anything about this? I will enquire.

Why Si?

I'm not suggesting we brush (no pun intended) under the carpet but what is telling Bill going to add? We ought to be sorting this out ourselves rather than pointing out to the wardens another example of how stupid the climbing community is.

Exactly.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Somebody's Fool on October 29, 2009, 05:46:37 pm
I wonder if Bill the Stanage Warden know anything about this? I will enquire.

Why Si?

I'm not suggesting we brush (no pun intended) under the carpet but what is telling Bill going to add? We ought to be sorting this out ourselves rather than pointing out to the wardens another example of how stupid the climbing community is.

Exactly.

Precisely.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on October 29, 2009, 06:03:59 pm
Why Si?

It'll give him something to do other than actually climbing ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on October 29, 2009, 06:25:14 pm
I wonder if Bill the Stanage Warden know anything about this? I will enquire.

Why Si?

I'm not suggesting we brush (no pun intended) under the carpet but what is telling Bill going to add? We ought to be sorting this out ourselves rather than pointing out to the wardens another example of how stupid the climbing community is.

Exactly.

Precisely.

Verily


Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: butters on October 29, 2009, 07:45:23 pm
It'll give him something to do other than actually climbing ;)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/63/203128945_eda8531579.jpg?v=0)

 ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jacqusie on October 29, 2009, 07:48:38 pm
The BMC work very well with Bill & he tends to know more than most about the going on's at Stanage - It was just a thought...

Si
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jacqusie on October 29, 2009, 07:51:59 pm
I wonder if Bill the Stanage Warden know anything about this? I will enquire.

 We ought to be sorting this out ourselves rather than pointing out to the wardens another example of how stupid the climbing community is.



I completely agree - how though?

I have a thread to start soon as I caught someone chipping at a grit crag yesterday - I did remain calm...

si
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 29, 2009, 07:55:47 pm
Spill the beans Jaques.  Now.

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 29, 2009, 07:56:37 pm
Si, I had a chat with Bill yesterday. I considered mentioning it but didn't, he monitors UKC so will no doubt read about it. We've discussed the subject before and he knows what is normal and what is OTT.  I'd rather let him worry about the more important stuff he has to do at the mo...

Sorting it ourselves means stuff like this thread and the UKC news item - raising awareness of what is excessive and the fact that the community finds it unacceptable.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 29, 2009, 07:57:14 pm
Sloper, Si is talking about some non-climbers carving names I think.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 29, 2009, 08:00:01 pm
Look I'm half way through organising the lynch mob, you can't just stand these folk down, maybe's well just have to lynch a top roper.

I bloody hope you're right.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jacqusie on October 29, 2009, 08:26:06 pm
It was a family chipping names at a vey small crag near Birchover - calm Sloper... It got sorted...

si
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Falling Down on October 29, 2009, 09:09:14 pm
I wonder if Bill the Stanage Warden know anything about this? I will enquire.

 We ought to be sorting this out ourselves rather than pointing out to the wardens another example of how stupid the climbing community is.

I completely agree - how though?


By raising it on here and UKC and someone taking a rope, a water spray and a brush down the plantation and going to wash it off?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on October 29, 2009, 09:20:47 pm
It was a family chipping names at a vey small crag near Birchover - calm Sloper... It got sorted...

si

No top, no tick.

I want blood, I want proof.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on October 30, 2009, 10:56:08 am
Tomtom's just clocked this crap on the Pebble....

(http://img687.yfrog.com/img687/4551/ttu.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on October 30, 2009, 11:05:34 am
that's just overuse of chalk cos it was probably damp when it was tried. some of those footholds are fragile enough.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jacqusie on October 30, 2009, 11:40:24 am




Seeing as you asked so nicely Tom

http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonjacques/4057399679/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonjacques/4057399679/#)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Tris on October 30, 2009, 11:49:40 am




Seeing as you asked so nicely Tom

http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonjacques/4057399679/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonjacques/4057399679/#)

So is that engraving, rather than chipping?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jacqusie on October 30, 2009, 01:12:49 pm
It was using a hammer & chisel & it soon stopped.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Tris on October 30, 2009, 02:40:45 pm
It was using a hammer & chisel & it soon stopped.

I'm sorry but what the fuck kind of family walks around with a hammer and chisel? This ain't Texas...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jacqusie on October 30, 2009, 03:02:47 pm
It was using a hammer & chisel & it soon stopped.

I'm sorry but what the fuck kind of family walks around with a hammer and chisel? This ain't Texas...



Ones from Norwich... says it all really...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2009, 03:10:51 pm
It was using a hammer & chisel & it soon stopped.

I'm sorry but what the fuck kind of family walks around with a hammer and chisel? This ain't Texas...

Texas being known as a place where rock is in profusion (with some exceptions) and name chisseling is commonplace?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: rginns on October 30, 2009, 03:15:43 pm
very thickly caked on tick mark on sit down arete on the Tanks boulder at Burbage South yesterday.

I've not particularly got much against tick marks per se when used proportionately as they can be useful sometimes but I don't understand why people can't BRUSH THE MARKS OFF afterwards. Or otherwise why not try to remembering where the holds are??????
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on October 30, 2009, 04:11:08 pm
Tomtom's just clocked this crap on the Pebble....

(http://img687.yfrog.com/img687/4551/ttu.jpg)

Cheers for posting that Slackline. It actually looked far worse than the picture showed, and it took a good 4-5 mins of brushing before the holds were usable as they were so caked and greasy with chalk. Cofe - looks like you were right someones been using chalk to dry the holds. Daft really, why not use a towell or cloth?? and its only 4+ warm up line anyway!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mark s on October 30, 2009, 04:15:33 pm
Tomtom's just clocked this crap on the Pebble....

(http://img687.yfrog.com/img687/4551/ttu.jpg)
saw that on wed.didnt have camera with me.a lad who was talking about it with me said brass monkey was plastered but i couldnt be arsed walk that way.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Tris on October 30, 2009, 05:08:22 pm
Texas being known as a place where rock is in profusion (with some exceptions) and name chisseling is commonplace?

No, Texas being a place full of freakin weirdos with hammers, you obviously haven't seen the cult classic (sorry for going  :off:)

texas chainsaw massacre:hammer time! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3T8rOQ3tuik#)

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2009, 05:42:14 pm
Ah yes, recall there being a hammer occasionally involved in a film better known for the title tool.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: The Sausage on October 30, 2009, 06:35:54 pm
very thickly caked on tick mark on sit down arete on the Tanks boulder at Burbage South yesterday.

I've not particularly got much against tick marks per se when used proportionately as they can be useful sometimes but I don't understand why people can't BRUSH THE MARKS OFF afterwards. Or otherwise why not try to remembering where the holds are??????

I disagree, tick marks should never be more than a very light SPOT. Tick marks do not completely brush off. Whether this is worse with 'superchalk' type stuff I don't know, but there is always some mark left behind. A line is NOT acceptable. It is grafitti. It looks awful, and detracts from subsequent ascents. It is also easy to forget to brush them off, or leave them as someone else is trying the problem, and then they're there to stay.

That's my take on it anyway.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jon bassindale on October 30, 2009, 07:01:02 pm
It's not just the grit. For a while now i've been warming up at the Langdale boulders by vigorously brushing tick marks ( the sausage is right, they don't disappear easily), somebody round our way is combining being blind as a bat with the memory of a goldfish. I turned one evening to find literally every conceivable foothold on the overhang face marked up. Has anybody got any theories as to why it's becoming more prevalent? Indoor walls? trips abroad?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nodder on October 30, 2009, 08:01:08 pm
I quite liked the idea of using bits of tape to mark holds apart from the fact that most people would just chuck them on the floor or leave them stuck on, so chalk maybe the lesser of two evils?

Quote
Has anybody got any theories as to why it's becoming more prevalent?

Its a jug now?
 

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jon bassindale on October 31, 2009, 12:29:54 pm
"Its a jug now?"

you've lost me,what's a jug now?  anyway, why is irrelevant i guess, stopping it is the issue.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nodder on October 31, 2009, 02:27:05 pm
Stone love.  Jerry tick marks the hold on Le Proue and exclaimes "its a jug now".  In every dvd and at every crag problems are covered in tick marks so people copy that behaviour.   
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jon bassindale on October 31, 2009, 02:44:53 pm
Ah,with you now.Sounds about right. Same reason we've got folks headpointing HVS. That's a bit of a bugger.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nodder on October 31, 2009, 03:42:33 pm
A bugger indeed.  But I tick holds, as I am sure most of you do/have done.  Bit like blow torching and wire brushing, in theory doesn't matter if you are careful and don't go over the top. Then you get to the point where you can see the holds on the minimum from the roadside, cos somebody didn't think they were clean enough.  This is the sort of issue that will become more and more difficult to manage because of more people starting to climb.  We all just have to point out the error of their ways as and when we see people doing these things.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nodder on October 31, 2009, 03:48:41 pm
Wasnt the Troll chalk bag called the 6a because you weren't supposed to need chalk on anythig easier?  How about a nationally approved V12 tickmark?  ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Adi Gill on November 01, 2009, 01:44:51 pm
Some one out there has been trying the statesman and seems to have a problem remembering where the holds are. With a bit of luck todays wind and rain will have tidied it up.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2505/4064241014_7cc00076ee.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 01, 2009, 08:08:36 pm
FWIW someone has been leaving me more than a bit frustrated whenever I pop into Pex with holds utterly caked in chalk, makes the photo of the Pebble chalking look discreet. As many are jugs, and quite a few below knee-level it's a bit baffling. The work of a retard. I did wonder if it might be an over-zealous parent identifying holds for a child... Whatever, still a retard, and an eyesore.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Houdini on November 02, 2009, 09:43:58 am
What's wrong w/ making chalk a dark shade? 

Grey would work much better.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on November 02, 2009, 10:03:41 am
What's wrong w/ making chalk a dark shade? 

Grey would work much better.

That is a very good idea...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on November 02, 2009, 10:27:28 am
I'm sure I've read mention of this idea in one of the Intro sections to a guide, possibly the Purple Font circuits guide (but then it also mentions inflatable air-pads that you wear and will inflate when falling!).

You'd also need a wider range of colours too, e.g. grey would stand out just as starkly at St Bees/Hueco as white would.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on November 02, 2009, 10:53:01 am
grey would stand out just as starkly at St Bees/Hueco as white would.

I don't think it would. A generic 18% grey would blend in much better than white on most rocks, except maybe some very pale granites.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on November 02, 2009, 10:59:43 am
what would be the point in tickmarking in an colour that blends in? you wouldn't be able to see it, whihc is the whole point of tickmarking. The issue is not with the colour of chalk, the issue is with people not brushing them off afterwards. And given even the most well-meaning human being's capacity for forgetfullness this means since people are prone to forgetting, people should be trying very hard to not tickmark in the first place, and if they do, do it in a very subtle and easy-to-remove way.

I'm sure I've read mention of this idea in one of the Intro sections to a guide, possibly the Purple Font circuits guide (but then it also mentions inflatable air-pads that you wear and will inflate when falling!).

The font guides/sites are a bit useless/hypocritical when it comes to tickmarks. They all espose minimal use of chalk and not donkeylining, but then you flick through the blue off-piste guide and bleau.info and you see some of the worst examples of tickmarking you're likely to see - no wonder font is covered in them. People in a position of influence need to lead by example. I'd certainly like to see mags/guides/news-sites/sponsors having a blackout on publishing photos of shit with heavy-duty tickmarks. Sounds harsh but something has got to change, or we'll have more french idiots painting "stop magnesie" with paint on every boulder in font.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on November 02, 2009, 12:41:58 pm
what would be the point in tickmarking in an colour that blends in? you wouldn't be able to see it

BOOM
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy B on November 02, 2009, 01:40:47 pm
You used to be able to get chalk in a range of yellows to greys. Although I can't ever remember seeing it in British shops, the american mags used to advertise it.

I think mags and websites refusing to use pictures with tick marks is a good idea.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Krank on November 02, 2009, 01:49:38 pm
Name and shame. 13secs GUILTY

Brimham Bouldering (http://www.vimeo.com/2751234)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on November 02, 2009, 04:00:14 pm
people should be trying very hard to not tickmark in the first place, and if they do, do it in a very subtle and easy-to-remove way.

Exactly. A tick mark is a helpful little indication of an obscure to see hold, it doesn't have to be a massive glaring stripe to a well chalked jug. I sometimes use a tickmark - a fingertip smudge of chalk, invariably less chalk than what's on the main body of the hold anyway.

Also correct about Font - the spiritual home of the tickmark from what I've seen!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on November 03, 2009, 11:17:54 pm
you want to get yourself to ticino
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Tris on November 04, 2009, 09:27:49 am
you want to get yourself to ticino

Is that a pun?  ;D
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on November 04, 2009, 10:41:58 am
You used to be able to get chalk in a range of yellows to greys. Although I can't ever remember seeing it in British shops, the american mags used to advertise it.

I think mags and websites refusing to use pictures with tick marks is a good idea.
If taken to the letter this would preclude the use of modest tickmarks by those who will always remove then, on occasions where the climber feels them necessary, perhaps on a hard FA. And/or having to pose a shot after the real ascent when the tick has been removed. The fact you could easily get round it with photoshop may be a good or bad thing depending on how you look at it. I do agree that perhaps mags/books could veto pics with excessive tick marking on local crags, but censoring a pics of the latest 9b from Outer Mongolia because it has a tick mark on it…?






I agree with Dave that even the most well intentioned climber may occasionally forget to remove a tickmark, but the balance can easily be rectified if conscientious climbers made a concerted effort to rub off other people’s tick marks when they see them. Much like the occasional bit of litter which falls out of your pocket and gets taken by the wind can be offset by picking up a few bits of other people’s litter.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy B on November 04, 2009, 06:44:21 pm
I can see your point, and I too use an occasional tick mark, but many people will copy what they see in mags and videos, and so I would be prepared to miss out on seeing a few good shots of problems or routes if it helped reduce the amount tick marks being left. There are many more controversial practices which occur, with much more positive intentions and outcomes than tick marks, that aren't made explicit in the media.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 08, 2009, 08:32:13 pm




Seeing as you asked so nicely Tom

http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonjacques/4057399679/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonjacques/4057399679/#)

I recommend you don't go to look at the mess at the top of End Of The Affair then. The size of a large dinner table of name chipping, all bordered in a sun rays effect. Fresh in last few weeks i would say.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: neil h on November 08, 2009, 10:21:51 pm
look at the size of these thuckers we found on the madarine

the thing is you dont even need them as when you do the move its a blind slap  ;D

I tried the route and could not do the move with the tick marks there casue they were throwing us out, We scrubbed the tick marks of and I did the moves next try without them  :-\

(http://www.maisonbleau.com/tick.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on November 08, 2009, 10:29:58 pm
Neil, you're my hero  :hug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on November 08, 2009, 10:43:17 pm
look at the size of these thuckers we found on the madarine

the thing is you dont even need them as when you do the move its a blind slap  ;D

I tried the route and could not do the move with the tick marks there casue they were throwing us out, We scrubbed the tick marks of and I did the moves next try without them  :-\


How were they throwing you out if you can't see them on the move?  Did you find a better part of the hold or something?  ???
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: neil h on November 09, 2009, 08:00:27 am
well you just cant see them, its a blind slap, vid soon, and yes they were in the wrong place, I found a way of using the holds better, and by putting a little tick mark above the hold means you can actually see were you heading for
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dobbin on November 09, 2009, 08:18:19 am

(http://www.maisonbleau.com/tick.jpg)

The man in the foreground has an ArcTeryX Gamma MX hoody on. Nice colour.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on November 09, 2009, 08:23:39 am
Thus spake the Sugar Ape.

What's hot for the coming fall collection?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on November 09, 2009, 10:30:01 am
Snappy duds!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on November 09, 2009, 10:43:02 am
He also has a collection of mobile phones he stole off children by the looks of things...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on November 09, 2009, 11:54:19 pm
Has anyone seen "Dose at Albarracin" on the UKB vimeo group? If not, prepare to be appalled.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: aly on November 27, 2009, 12:52:30 pm
Not specifically tick marks but chalk, the top holds of Gorilla Warfare were an absolute disgrace thismorning, it looked as if someone has poured chalk over them all and not brushed any of it off - clean up after yourselves please!!  I cleaned it up as much as possible and hopefully the rain will finish the job.  The (unchalked) crimps on Early Doors were no harder to hold despite not being plastered in the white stuff so I'm not sure it even helps.


As an aside - do any locals know how you are supposed to start the full Gorilla Warfare?  I stepped off the block near the end, matching the sloping rail of GW, did the normal GW finish, hand traversed the lip left to the offwidth, went down this and finished back up Extended Warfare.  Is this right?
cheers
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 27, 2009, 01:00:00 pm
No, it's very wrong.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on November 27, 2009, 01:09:49 pm
normal gorilla warefare/earlydoors/extended warefar start on the low flake rigth of the offwidth. The historical original GW starts on the left end of the block, traverses the lip, down the offwidth, along extended warefare then finishes across the vertical end face to the far arete.

what you've done is some fucked up rocher-canon style figure-of-eight linkup.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: aly on November 27, 2009, 03:01:58 pm
Ahh OK - thanks for that.  I don't know where I got the idea that it traversed the lip leftwards from the top of GW.   :oops:

Oh well, only need to figure out how to work Early Doors in now for some wacky stamina links  ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dr crimp on November 28, 2009, 08:43:11 pm
any one checked out the tick line of all donkey marks from the s7 guru on page 101 of the peak bouldering guide. :-\
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tallsop on December 02, 2009, 12:37:59 am
Thats disgusting, never noticed that before, its like uv played a weird darren brown trick on me! News Flash - Tick marking - down to Ben Moon's subliminal messages aired by the media!!!!!!!!! Everybody is a victim (apart from JB, who 'spits' instead) ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on September 23, 2010, 06:24:25 pm
Forgot to repost the Paul Mitchell eliminate pic (clickable thumb):

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/th_IMG00181-20100831-1821.jpg) (http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/?action=view&current=IMG00181-20100831-1821.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: neil h on September 23, 2010, 06:28:38 pm
 :o
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 23, 2010, 07:41:08 pm
That pic reminds of that Myra Hindley portrait made using children's hand prints... on more than one level
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on September 23, 2010, 11:45:01 pm
Forgot to repost the Paul Mitchell eliminate pic (clickable thumb):

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/th_IMG00181-20100831-1821.jpg) (http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/?action=view&current=IMG00181-20100831-1821.jpg)

I'm almost tempted to register on photobucket.com just to ask which of the holds were eliminated!!!

Fucking atrocity  :spank: :read: :furious:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on September 23, 2010, 11:50:18 pm
I am told that the characteristic vein features are out.  Makes sense.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Grubes on September 24, 2010, 08:07:46 am
the hardest eliminate is to climb that problem with out touching anthing that is chalked up
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on September 28, 2010, 07:31:43 pm
Paul has a decent climbing pedigree and isn't a fool, whcih makes the excess of chalk particularly surprising.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Snoops on September 28, 2010, 07:44:19 pm
Paul has a decent climbing pedigree and isn't a fool, whcih makes the excess of chalk particularly surprising.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Iesu on September 30, 2010, 10:29:17 am
let's see if this works.....

(http://gallery.me.com/jessedavies/100012/Image014/web.jpg?ver=12858388070001)

horrific donkey marks (one underneath as well!) on the nose opposite Morel's Wall at Almscliffe on sunday night. For Shame!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on September 30, 2010, 12:39:51 pm
FFS, that's pathetic, they haven't even numbered them or said whether it's a slap with the left of the right hand . . . .then again you can probably watch a you tube video on your Iphone so perhaps they were being senstivie. :wank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stabbsy on September 30, 2010, 02:00:26 pm
horrific donkey marks (one underneath as well!) on the nose opposite Morrell's Wall at Almscliffe on sunday night. For Shame!

I know it's a common theme on this thread, but you couldn't actually see the majority of that line from where you do the first move from (and if you could see the line, it's blindingly obvious where the hold is anyway). Some tick mark crimes on Patta's Arete last week as well. Definitely getting more common at the 'cliff and Brimham.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Norton Sharley on October 05, 2010, 02:45:25 pm
Presumably because they are used to aiming for something yellow, or red, or blue..... 

I blame the climbing walls.  If they used natural grit coloured holds these donkey's wouldn't have to use tick marks?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Durbs on October 05, 2010, 03:30:41 pm
At Craggy2, you sometimes get indoor tick-marks, so this isn't 100% true...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: butters on October 05, 2010, 09:02:45 pm
Not a donkey tick as such unless it has been breeding on the side of the Trackside boulder - more an exercise in caking the hold with as much chalk as humanly possible.  :o

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_aNxgdyXs8ug/TKteG_pD13I/AAAAAAAAAVQ/V8VS4PFlVD4/s400/Image146.jpg)

NB - the pic was taken after I had spent two or three minutes brushing chalk off it but it was still in an absolutely disgusting state.

Quick question - would water have been beneficial in removing the eyesore?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 05, 2010, 09:13:00 pm

Quick question - would water have been beneficial in removing the eyesore?

Urine would be better. Apply liberally at the same time as the chalk.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on October 05, 2010, 09:20:12 pm
They start the tickmarkers pretty young down Endcliffe Park these days:

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/ep_tickjpg.jpg?t=1286309990)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: JamieG on October 15, 2010, 08:36:22 pm
Not a donkey tick as such unless it has been breeding on the side of the Trackside boulder - more an exercise in caking the hold with as much chalk as humanly possible.  :o

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_aNxgdyXs8ug/TKteG_pD13I/AAAAAAAAAVQ/V8VS4PFlVD4/s400/Image146.jpg)

NB - the pic was taken after I had spent two or three minutes brushing chalk off it but it was still in an absolutely disgusting state.

Quick question - would water have been beneficial in removing the eyesore?

Was at curbar, both last sunday and this morning. I can honestly say i have never seen some much chalk on so many holds on both trackside boulder and gorrilla warfare block. I spent ages just randomly brushing holds to try clean them up, but they were still as mess.

This problem seems to be getting worse.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Drew on October 15, 2010, 10:03:18 pm
I think the recent dry weather has made it worse. We need a good downpour to clean it all off. Won't make a difference to GW, but Trackside will look less shit.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on October 15, 2010, 10:50:03 pm
It's the period of damp, almost dry, weather that's been the problem.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on October 16, 2010, 08:39:05 am
plus when it has been sunny its been boiling.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: account_inactive on October 16, 2010, 11:20:00 am
and chalk helps people adhere to the rock better
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: butters on October 16, 2010, 11:58:47 am
and chalk helps people adhere to the rock better

Well it did me fuck all good that day - two badly grazed knuckles as a result of trying the problem after trying to clean it. From what I have heard since it was done on the Saturday when conditions were pretty greasy and so the slot was liberally smeared in chalk - problem was that the chalk was left all over it and it then sucked up all the moisture in the air turning it into a doughy mess.  :wank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fultonius on October 16, 2010, 01:03:18 pm
Someone should take a container (or you own choice) of water and a brush up there and wash the lot off last thing at night.

I remember a french guy doing that on El Poussah , when we got there the holds were nice and clean and almost dry. My mates wanted to climb it and hadn't realised the reason for the damp patches. I can't imagine the Frenchman was too happy on return to some damp holds caked with chalk!

(Next time I'd stop my mates doing it - hadn't really twigged at the time)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: butters on October 16, 2010, 01:17:36 pm
Someone should take a container (or you own choice) of water and a brush up there and wash the lot off last thing at night.

Had brushes in abundance at the time but no water or I probably would have done so.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 17, 2010, 05:35:35 pm
Found this on the rock at Kyloe yesterday. F*cking disgrace. (sorry for fb link)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs891.snc4/72429_10150275695370076_751930075_15243851_5076839_n.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 17, 2010, 07:58:17 pm
at least they got the words right shame about all the chalk though.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on October 17, 2010, 08:24:15 pm
As I can't believe someone from here were be cuntish enough to graffiti like that, others would appear to have been wound up by UKC.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrconners on October 17, 2010, 08:34:23 pm
I always try to give any caked holds a bit of a wash and brush up at the end of a sesh if I have water left, but I must admit that the quantity of chalk being used on some holds seems to be increasing. Is it really neccessary to chalk the holds? Is it fuck.

I do recall on some American bouldering video an organised cleanup at the happies, there was a load of folk with those back mounted water pump sprays and brushes blitzing the problems. Maybe a practice to be encouraged.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: willackers on October 17, 2010, 08:51:56 pm
I agree that the chalk looks a mess but is it a good idea to brush wet sandstone?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jowgli on October 17, 2010, 09:10:58 pm
can't speak for many areas but from my experience of the churnet valley and the fact that everytime i see the rock bits seem to have crumbled a bit more, it should be left well alone when wet/damp, its cohesion is seriously compromised...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrconners on October 17, 2010, 10:02:10 pm
I agree that the chalk looks a mess but is it a good idea to brush wet sandstone?
(http://www.buickperformance.com/cowl9b.jpg)


Maybe not
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: grumpycrumpy on January 05, 2011, 12:26:34 pm
(http://img403.imageshack.us/i/004mr.jpg/)

Cratcliffe top on Sunday ...... We weren't sure if the chalk was being used to indicate which holds were in or which were out  :lol: .......
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: psychomansam on January 05, 2011, 12:36:11 pm
I honestly don't get some people.

I was recently working an indoor problem and had spent a couple of mins brushing chalk off the key sloper to improve friction (virtually no-one brushes holds down in the beacon, it gets pretty bad).
I took a quick break and watched a guy walk up to it, get his chalk ball out and smash chalk all over the hold before getting on it.
I wouldn't mind so much if he was a novice but he was obviously strong(er than me) and experienced. What the hell?

Fucking unnecessary, god knows what he does to actual rock. If people can't even be respectful on plastic, what hope do they have!?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on January 05, 2011, 09:46:27 pm
sam you've just wrote that you cleaned a hold and someone else put chalk on it after
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 05, 2011, 10:09:39 pm
Cratcliffe top on Sunday ...... We weren't sure if the chalk was being used to indicate which holds were in or which were out  :lol: .......

(http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/3271/004mrc.jpg)

but is it art?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on January 05, 2011, 10:16:46 pm
That's one low start  :wank: :wank: :wank: :wank: :wank: :wank: :wank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 05, 2011, 10:20:56 pm
The descent was similarly chalked.

As you say    :wank:  :wank:  :wank:


It even looks like gritstone bukkake  :wank:  :wank:  :wank:

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on January 06, 2011, 10:14:38 am

(http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/3271/004mrc.jpg)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_SJ5S43VGz5Q/SSIv6vmuQgI/AAAAAAAADeY/7diXA3LjOAs/s400/orion.jpg)

but is it art?

I noticed this had a similar patter to a Mirrored Orion formation. Using this, I consulted some of my storytelling archaeologist colleagues and they informed me that this indicated some sort of ritual. These markings were probably to do with some form of sacrifice, worship or the alignment of rune stones in Narnia. Failing that it could be due to the partial eclipse or work from the Cratcliff branch of the 'constellation tick mark crew'.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: grumpycrumpy on January 06, 2011, 11:33:33 am
The slab just below Razor Roof (?) was in a similar state . They seemed to have only  chalked the chipped holds , maybe in some kind of protest  :-\   
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 06, 2011, 11:54:45 am
If it was then it sounds about as sensible as those choads in Font printing NON MAGNESIE!! all over the boulders in massive bright pink lettering.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on January 07, 2011, 04:07:51 pm
AHA! found more evidence of what those strange tickmarks may mean!!

(http://thehairpin.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Picture-9.jpg)

http://thehairpin.com/2011/01/decoding-the-bird-death-maps/ (http://thehairpin.com/2011/01/decoding-the-bird-death-maps/)

Its all related - I'm telling you!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cheque on January 07, 2011, 04:53:55 pm

Cratcliffe top on Sunday ...... We weren't sure if the chalk was being used to indicate which holds were in or which were out  :lol: .......

I saw this, too. What a joke. The boulder in LSF's picture wasn't even the worst!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jern on January 14, 2011, 12:16:10 pm
(http://i.ukc2.com/i/163810.jpg)

 ???
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on January 14, 2011, 12:38:48 pm
(http://ukc2.com/core/theft.gif)

Holy crap, that's hideous!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on January 14, 2011, 12:56:56 pm
If it was then it sounds about as sensible as those choads in Font printing NON MAGNESIE!! all over the boulders in massive bright pink lettering.

I really don't want to get into that debate... but I feel I have to point out that the above only fails to make sense if you imagine that climbers objections to chalk at
Bleau are anything to do with the Aesthetics.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Three Nine on January 14, 2011, 02:38:54 pm
Just seen this thread! amazing stuff.

I once drew a big cock and balls at the bottom of Empire Wall with a stick of chalk someone (tourist?) had left at the crag, but i didnt take a picture. next time i'm there i'll do another one and post it up.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on January 14, 2011, 02:50:08 pm
Just seen this thread! amazing stuff.

I once drew a big cock and balls at the bottom of Empire Wall with a stick of chalk someone (tourist?) had left at the crag, but i didnt take a picture. next time i'm there i'll do another one and post it up.

Unless sarcasm hasn't translated well over t'internet again.....you've missed the last word in the title of this thread.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on January 14, 2011, 03:01:04 pm
Just seen this thread! amazing stuff.

I once drew a big cock and balls at the bottom of Empire Wall with a stick of chalk someone (tourist?) had left at the crag, but i didnt take a picture. next time i'm there i'll do another one and post it up.

Is this your house?

(http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/About/General/2009/3/24/1237906734712/A-house-near-Hungerford-t-001.jpg)

 ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Three Nine on January 20, 2011, 10:45:21 am
I wish it were - that makes the Cern Abbas giant look a bit inadequate!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Three Nine on January 20, 2011, 10:49:35 am
And i've just noticed I got puntered and wadded for my previous post. It just goes to show how divided people can be over the chalk cock and balls issue.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on January 20, 2011, 10:52:56 am
And i've just noticed I got puntered and wadded for my previous post. It just goes to show how divided people can be over the chalk cock and balls issue.

Its more a case that some humor (particularly sarcasm) don't translate well in forums, some people thought you were joking, others thought you were being serious.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Duma on January 20, 2011, 10:55:04 am
:wall:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Three Nine on January 20, 2011, 11:00:48 am
A cock and balls drawn anywhere IS funny.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on January 20, 2011, 11:06:55 am
A cock and balls drawn anywhere IS funny.

I'm glad you said that, I was starting to feel bad that I'd puntered you for making a joke.
Now I'm glad I did.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: psychomansam on January 20, 2011, 11:09:46 am
sam you've just wrote that you cleaned a hold and someone else put chalk on it after

Precisely. Why? Are they doing this in the mistaken belief that it will in some way improve the friction? It only ever reduces the friction. There's surely no excuse for spanking your chalk ball out all over a hold to chalk it up!? It screws you and more importantly everyone else.

All chalk does is remove damp/sweat. This is why it goes on ze hands. Now, if he put pof on the hold, that actually would improve friction. In fact, maybe i'll try that next week. Makes more sense no?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on January 20, 2011, 11:12:46 am
A cock and balls drawn anywhere IS funny.

Get a permanent marker and draw them on your forehead then.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Three Nine on January 20, 2011, 11:14:29 am
I don't think I have a forehard.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on January 20, 2011, 11:27:19 am
You know exactly what I meant to say.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: chummer on January 20, 2011, 12:40:13 pm
I with you three nine to an extent. A big cock and massive pair of balls is the bed rock of British smut humor and I for one will never forget the time I first drew a cock and pair of balls in school.
However, once I had drawn a few sets of cocks and balls my smut humor quickly developed away from this into more intelligent smut humor like 'are your labs open today' to the Science Lab technician, and such like. May I suggest that you too develop your cock and balls humor a little more to prevent such puntering and general distain for the drawing of such things on rock? There is so much more than just drawing cocks and balls.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: rodma on January 20, 2011, 01:14:01 pm
sam you've just wrote that you cleaned a hold and someone else put chalk on it after

Precisely. Why? Are they doing this in the mistaken belief that it will in some way improve the friction? It only ever reduces the friction. There's surely no excuse for spanking your chalk ball out all over a hold to chalk it up!? It screws you and more importantly everyone else.

All chalk does is remove damp/sweat. This is why it goes on ze hands. Now, if he put pof on the hold, that actually would improve friction. In fact, maybe i'll try that next week. Makes more sense no?

Just in the off chance you're not a troll

Some people (me included) put a little chalk on a newly brushed hold, so that when they actually get to it, after cutting through, the new chalk on the hold goes some way to absorb the sweat.

I can't believe I just replied, I managed to resist for ages. I'm so weak.  :wall:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Lund on January 20, 2011, 02:03:54 pm
sam you've just wrote that you cleaned a hold and someone else put chalk on it after

Precisely. Why? Are they doing this in the mistaken belief that it will in some way improve the friction? It only ever reduces the friction. There's surely no excuse for spanking your chalk ball out all over a hold to chalk it up!? It screws you and more importantly everyone else.

All chalk does is remove damp/sweat. This is why it goes on ze hands. Now, if he put pof on the hold, that actually would improve friction. In fact, maybe i'll try that next week. Makes more sense no?

Just in the off chance you're not a troll

Some people (me included) put a little chalk on a newly brushed hold, so that when they actually get to it, after cutting through, the new chalk on the hold goes some way to absorb the sweat.

I can't believe I just replied, I managed to resist for ages. I'm so weak.  :wall:

So, science:

Chalk has two purposes in gymnastics, where the usage came from.
- to absorb sweat
- to reduce friction, and reduce skin tears/blisters.

The effects vary with the amount of chalk.  Too much chalk just creates a massive mess, but other than that has both the effects above.  So a gymnastic can use loads, up to a point - although maybe there is a point where too much will reduce the friction too much and they won't be able to hold on... but they're depending mostly on grip strength to hold their hands hooked closed on the ring/bar/whatever rather than friction to stop their skin slipping off.

As a rock climber, we don't grab the hold like a handle - and thus need max friction to not slide off.  We use chalk to absorb the sweat - but what are looking to maximise friction.  Too little chalk = too much slippage from sweat, too much chalk = too much slippage from chalk.

So... we want to use the minimum amount of chalk possible to absorb the sweat.

So here's where I struggle to connect the science dots.  Does a mechanism by which you put chalk on a sloper and then onto your hand result in an effective *minimum* delivery of the chalk to the sweaty parts?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on January 20, 2011, 02:24:44 pm
with every move chalk comes off your hands what if said sloper is 5moves in, you do the math
in fact if someone didn't use chalk on newly cleaned holds i'd think they were a cock and had no concept of what they were doing
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on January 20, 2011, 02:31:47 pm
Why do I have a little bag clipped round my waist to hold chalk?  :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: clgladiator on January 20, 2011, 02:39:12 pm
because you are also tied in and are climbing a route?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on January 20, 2011, 02:40:22 pm
There's surely no excuse for spanking your chalk ball out all over a hold to chalk it up!?

This is just silly. If you look at the original statement it implies that it is a mistake to get a whole chalk ball out and to aggressively cover a freshly brushed hold in chalk.

Dense argues that perhaps a careful application to a hold a few moves into a problem is appropriate because having wet hands is always worse than having hands that are a bit too chalky.

Lund is making the point that chalk reduces friction on surfaces that are already dry but that having wet hands is always worse than having hands that are a bit too chalky. This is pure SCIENCE.

Seeing as you are both trying to make the same point but are managing to argue about it you can both stop now.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on January 20, 2011, 02:42:46 pm
because you are also tied in and are climbing a route?

Its there when I boulder too (it means that I don't lose it, it also means it doesn't get in others way lying on the floor).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on January 20, 2011, 02:50:26 pm

Seeing as you are both trying to make the same point but are managing to argue about it you can both stop now.

What are you, some kind of relationship counsellor?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on January 20, 2011, 02:53:27 pm
I was thinking more a Billy Crystal type figure?

(http://www.grouchoreviews.com/content/films/3700/1.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on January 20, 2011, 04:07:04 pm

Lund is making the point that chalk reduces friction on surfaces that are already dry but that having wet hands is always worse than having hands that are a bit too chalky. This is pure SCIENCE.


I know it's not SCIENCE but the science (what little there is) showed that under some conditions of temp, humidity hold smoothness etc ( the ones they tested under) that too chalky is considerably worse than wet.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on January 20, 2011, 04:32:30 pm
Another bit of science like that evolv rubber giving the best friction story, where I'll take years of field testing over lab conditions.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: The Aaronator on January 20, 2011, 04:51:28 pm

Lund is making the point that chalk reduces friction on surfaces that are already dry but that having wet hands is always worse than having hands that are a bit too chalky. This is pure SCIENCE.


I know it's not SCIENCE but the science (what little there is) showed that under some conditions of temp, humidity hold smoothness etc ( the ones they tested under) that too chalky is considerably worse than wet.

So...how would one go about putting together an experiment that tests this more comprehensively and scientifically? given the amount of variables - humidity, skin loss, temperature, hand size and everything else.

I personally feel that chalk on dry hands gives one a little extra grip. What about chalk mixed with drying agents and other additives?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 20, 2011, 05:02:18 pm
Its there when I boulder too (it means that I don't lose it, it also means it doesn't get in others way lying on the floor).

You'd lose your chalk bag if it wasn't tied to you?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on January 20, 2011, 05:09:26 pm
I've lost a few over the years, mainly forgetting to pick it up when leaving somewhere (whether thats the crag, or the wall).  I tend to not bother taking it off and until I sit down in the car covering my back and the seat in chalk, that way I know I've got it and not left it at the crag.

I gave up buying Nalgenes after loosing my third one at the climbing wall as I'm forever putting it down at the base of a climb and forgetting to pick it up when I move to another (not a single one was handed in!).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 20, 2011, 05:16:59 pm
You dick.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on January 20, 2011, 05:18:25 pm
[
So...how would one go about putting together an experiment that tests this more comprehensively and scientifically? given the amount of variables - humidity, skin loss, temperature, hand size and everything else.



Well extending the work the guys at Brum did to a range of different temps & humidities should be easy (apart from getting funding :-) ).
Quantifying the amount of chalk is trickier.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mr__j5 on January 20, 2011, 05:42:33 pm
The main reason that I see for chalking holds is due to them being wet normally caused by previous users having damp hands when they get to that hold.

But I normally brush the chalk off again since it's only being used to soak up the existing damp.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: psychomansam on January 20, 2011, 06:50:09 pm
Oh god, i feel i just made us a little bit too much like the other channel.

In my view, as little chalk as possible never involves chalking a hold unless it's actually damp(outdoors). If an indoor hold is too greasy to use that day from too many sweaty hands, I prefer to leave it for another day. To me, the short-term benefit doesn't outweigh the long-term consequences of coating holds in chalk.

Maybe if you've got very sweaty hands, it could be worth using some liquid chalk in addition to you usual.

Despite this, i can at least understand applying a small amount of chalk to a hold indoors if it's high/a good few moves in on a problem as one of you said. Everyone has their own ethics.

However, the hold in question at the time was the second hold on the route. The first was a crimp. If his hand was sweaty it wasn't the poor little holds fault.

 :spank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on January 20, 2011, 07:13:38 pm
Oh god, i feel i just made us a little bit too much like the other channel.


Is it only me that finds it odd that any discussion of how best to use one of the two tools we have in bouldering is somehow not allowed?  :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on January 20, 2011, 08:15:34 pm

Is it only me that finds it odd that any discussion of how best to use one of the two tools we have in bouldering is somehow not allowed?  :shrug:

So do you believe that having no chalk on your hands or the rock, or maybe a little bit of water on your hands is better than chalk, and that everyone who uses chalk is wrong?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on January 20, 2011, 09:05:32 pm
So do you believe that having no chalk on your hands or the rock, or maybe a little bit of water on your hands is better than chalk, and that everyone who uses chalk is wrong?

I believe that we as climbers have no idea how or when to use this tool.  There seem to be at least four mutually contradictory theories, two  have cropped up in this thread. (neither of them inconsistent with the results in that Birmingham paper).

& I for one would like to know the answer/s.


Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Lund on January 20, 2011, 10:01:41 pm
Personally, I think there's a thing as too much chalk.  And too little chalk.  I definitely doubt that spanking chalk on a sloper indoors makes it easier to hold.  Unless you're an extremely sweaty cunt.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on January 20, 2011, 10:05:58 pm

& I for one would like to know the answer/s.

I think taking an overall view there are probably easier ways to improve one's climbing success than worrying about the optimum chalk distribution on each hold for the given variables.  Like getting stronger.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: The Aaronator on January 20, 2011, 11:17:42 pm
Can someone post a link to the research in question.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: hairich on January 20, 2011, 11:36:45 pm
this is the most tedious thread i have ever read.you train at the wall to get strong.if a greasy git like stom is on before you clean the hold.otherwise go outside
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on January 21, 2011, 12:25:55 am
Can someone post a link to the research in question.

If its been published in a journal then try  Google Scholar (http://scholar.google.co.uk) to find it.

I've no idea whether it has or not though.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: rodma on January 21, 2011, 08:24:41 am
Sorry for taking the bait in the first place.

This thread is now seriously  :off:


& I for one would like to know the answer/s.


I have no idea how you manage to get to sleep at night, with such weighty subjects on your mind.

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Simon Brown on January 21, 2011, 09:12:01 am
 :agree:

I'm an old git so I'll chip in my own ethical position on moron donkey marks/chalking holds.

Donkey marks are cheating. Use your eyes and memory; if you can't find the holds or remember where they are then go climb something easier. Or do some yoga.

Chalk is there to dry the sweat from your hands. I use it for that and blow/dust off any excess so as to leave as little trace as possible on the rock.

Does anybody else remember the idea "Thou shalt not wreck the place"?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: philo on January 23, 2011, 12:08:37 am
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v272/67/61/540521791/n540521791_990615_5101.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Moo on January 23, 2011, 02:10:40 am
I think everyone who was involved in that chalk discussion should be thoroughly ashamed
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: benj_d on January 23, 2011, 08:04:47 pm
bet you did that phil  ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: rginns on February 05, 2011, 09:18:50 pm
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5419047591_6ef774df87.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/climberrick/5419047591/)
IMAG0180 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/climberrick/5419047591/#) by rickginns (http://www.flickr.com/people/climberrick/), on Flickr

Woodhouse Scar Cave Buttress.
Pointless tickmarks, the holds are bloody massive.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tommytwotone on February 06, 2011, 12:27:29 pm
I meant to get a photo but didn't end up taking one, by last weekend there was not a tickmark, but a chalk circle round one of the starting crimps of Gypsy at Almscliff.

The mind boggles.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nai on February 06, 2011, 01:00:34 pm
I did have/have got somewhere a picture of the low traverse at Burbage West with every hand and foothold marked with a massive thick chalk circle.

I was literally speechless when I saw it.  Off to see if I can locate it.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mark s on February 13, 2011, 11:51:14 am
i know its indoors but still,i thought that is worth taking a pic of
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37935700@N08/5441455532/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37935700@N08/5441455532/#)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 13, 2011, 12:13:08 pm
that's just the 2"Cru tagging again
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Oli on February 13, 2011, 12:17:35 pm
I did have/have got somewhere a picture of the low traverse at Burbage West with every hand and foothold marked with a massive thick chalk circle.

I was literally speechless when I saw it.  Off to see if I can locate it.

Maybe related, but on tuesday there was a huge (about 1ft diameter) circle of thick chalk all over the hold you rock onto on Remergence. There's trying to dry out holds, and there's creating a mess. This was definitely the latter and was easily visible from B.West. I forgot to take a picture though...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Norton Sharley on February 14, 2011, 09:25:34 am
that's just the 2"Cru tagging again

there aint no way they can reach that high to tag
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 14, 2011, 09:32:01 am
2" does not refer to their height...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: account_inactive on February 20, 2011, 07:13:36 pm
(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/184025_10150392068855012_878480011_17105451_2585895_s.jpg)

Apologies for the (mini) crackbook link
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 21, 2011, 10:13:41 am
This excess of chalking baffles me frankly. For the last two or three years about half the times I've gone to Pex there's been a solid ring of chalk, obviously from a ball, pasted over footholds on traverses, lines of easy problems etc. It's almost as if some over-zealous parent hasd been trying to mark holds out for a youngster, it's that excessive and unnecessary. Surely if people have the intelligence to find the quarry that's about all they'd need to understand the pointlessness of this chalking? It's just crass.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Falling Down on February 21, 2011, 10:49:01 am
At Stanage Plantation a couple of weeks ago on a quiet afternoon at the Green Traverse boulder, a couple of young lads came over to join me, both relatively inexperienced but had a couple of attempts.  One asked which foothold I was using to pop off the crimp rail and after I pointed it out he whipped out a chalkball from his bag and poffed it all over the hold.  I immediately bushed it off and explained politely that you don't chalk footholds (or handholds for that matter).  They were both quite surprised/dumbfounded but I think they understood.... (fingers crossed).

I don't know where this habit has come from either.....

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on February 21, 2011, 11:05:57 am
It's not like you can't see that foothold though.  It there was a slot under an overlap I could understand it, but to mark something you can see is just bizarre.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: philo on February 21, 2011, 12:24:36 pm
At Stanage Plantation a couple of weeks ago on a quiet afternoon at the Green Traverse boulder, a couple of young lads came over to join me, both relatively inexperienced but had a couple of attempts.  One asked which foothold I was using to pop off the crimp rail and after I pointed it out he whipped out a chalkball from his bag and poffed it all over the hold.  I immediately bushed it off and explained politely that you don't chalk footholds (or handholds for that matter).  They were both quite surprised/dumbfounded but I think they understood.... (fingers crossed).

I don't know where this habit has come from either.....

indoor
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: chriss on March 09, 2011, 05:17:29 pm
As posted on YYFY was at Cratcliff yesterday Jerry's Traverse area was in a poor state. We then went over to Burbage & under The Nose & Western Eyes some one had done graffiti in blue chalk. Finally to Curbar where some one had bled all over the holds of Trackside, Strawberry's & the big pocket thing on the end.

I was honestly shocked at how little of a shit people seem to give now for boulders & areas in general. Rant over.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on March 09, 2011, 05:26:20 pm
I doubt climbers use blue chalk.

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: chriss on March 09, 2011, 05:28:11 pm
I doubt climbers use blue chalk.

Fair point.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on March 09, 2011, 05:39:51 pm
The Nose & Western Eyes some one had done graffiti in blue chalk.

Doesn't the Western Eyes graffiti say 'I love chalk'?  I thought that was pretty profound...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on March 09, 2011, 07:19:51 pm
Hmm... Blue chalk.... Strawberries.... could this be some sort of tick mark dirty protest by the long lost Sloper? ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 09, 2011, 07:22:21 pm
I was honestly shocked at how little of a shit people seem to give now for boulders & areas in general.

Hopefully this new "indoor" bouldering stuff will take off in a big way and attract chalk daubers away from the natural stuff.

Maybe someone should set up a forum or web site for this new alternative to rock climbing?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on March 09, 2011, 07:29:56 pm
I was honestly shocked at how little of a shit people seem to give now for boulders & areas in general.

Hopefully this new "indoor" bouldering stuff will take off in a big way and attract chalk daubers away from the natural stuff.

Maybe someone should set up a forum or web site for this new alternative to rock climbing?

http://www.lagerstarfish.com/forums/indoorbouldering (http://tinyurl.com/6ytnzn8)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cheque on March 21, 2011, 08:45:09 pm
Not tick marks, but I visited Chasecliffe for the first time this evening and was dismayed to find fresh-looking vertical scratches all down the left hand side of the easy side of the boulder:

(http://i.imgur.com/A1dLa.jpg)

Surely not from dry tooling? The only other explanation I can think of is someone climbing it in nailed boots or running spikes.  >:(
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on March 22, 2011, 09:10:13 am
Certainly looks like it. First time you have been there since the snows?

Cunts.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 22, 2011, 09:23:14 am
Might have been one of the Lycan Club members sharpening their claws before geting stuck in to the local population.

Any signs of torn/discarded clothing?

I'll have a word with Wolfie; he might know.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on March 22, 2011, 09:24:56 am

Any signs of torn/discarded sheep's clothing?

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on March 22, 2011, 09:28:22 am
Not tick marks, but I visited Chasecliffe for the first time this evening and was dismayed to find fresh-looking vertical scratches all down the left hand side of the easy side of the boulder:

(http://i.imgur.com/A1dLa.jpg)

Surely not from dry tooling? The only other explanation I can think of is someone climbing it in nailed boots or running spikes.  >:(

FBSF eyeballed what looked very much like crampon scratches on Wednesday climb at burbage the other week. fucking idiots.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on March 22, 2011, 10:03:56 am
There seems to be a lot of this going on at the moment, possibly not helped by morons on UKC claiming it's OK.  But let's not dig that all back up again.

Please note, anyone that I catch dry tooling at a summer crag will have a crampon suppository.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: JohnM on March 22, 2011, 10:30:06 am
Dry tooling is becoming worryingly popular and people seem desperate to get out on real rock to practice their new "skills" no matter where it is.  A mate in the Lakes said that the lower section of a 7c sport route at Tilberthwaite he was trying has been trashed with crampon scars and one of the holds destroyed by an axe.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on March 22, 2011, 10:33:36 am
There were scratches all over one of the routes at Castle Inn Quarry off the A55, apparently been there a year or so according to others climbing there who are local.  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on March 22, 2011, 10:40:10 am
Is it worth having a specific thread to record where/ when this occurs?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: rginns on March 22, 2011, 11:07:48 am
 :agree:
Yes.

Denham, Stronstrey, Chasecliffe, Castle Inn, Tiberthwaite...etc etc
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sam on March 22, 2011, 11:15:31 am
I've sent an email to the Climbing Walls Officer at the BMC asking whether a concerted campaign for crag etiquette would be suitable given the increase in popularity of the sport/activity (it would).  Time the climbing wall industry, which is benefiting so much from this increase in participation, steps up and pulls it's weight in promoting ethical crag use. I'm sure UKC will do it's (big) bit if asked too. Clearly, some people just do not get that tools on rock, excessive ticking and litter are not on. This can probably be attributed to misplaced enthusiasm and a lack of education. Get emailing folks.

Sam

Zig Zag Climbing Walls
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on March 22, 2011, 11:28:01 am
I'll start a thread, and try to recall when things went on.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fatboySlimfast on March 22, 2011, 11:33:54 am
Yeah, it was just over the roof on wednesday climb and also on the top slab of Mutiny Crack where you traverse across from the hollybush.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Paul B on April 19, 2011, 12:40:09 am
As I dropped down off Flying Buttress tonight I was quite shocked to see the right-hand route (looking in), has chalk circles on each hold and ticks on all the footholds. These are numbered (!) and denoted with L and R.

There was a large, noisy, blissfully-unaware university group on the buttress when we arrived, everyone else there had beards and a large collection of hexes.

Unfortunately I didn't have a brush but I guess it'll rain soon.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fatboySlimfast on April 19, 2011, 08:58:30 am
Quote
everyone else there had beards and a large collection of hexes
.

I was around that area last night and dont have a beard or own any hexes........

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Paul B on April 19, 2011, 09:33:06 am
me neither...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 19, 2011, 11:24:23 am
As I dropped down off Flying Buttress tonight I was quite shocked to see the right-hand route (looking in), has chalk circles on each hold and ticks on all the footholds. These are numbered (!) and denoted with L and R.

Not Kirkus's corner, Shirley?

first climbed in the 1930s

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nai on April 19, 2011, 11:36:13 am
That was my thought but apparently it's the E4 right again, Sparticus Articus?

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on April 19, 2011, 02:35:23 pm
Oh FFS. This kind of attitude is typical of some University clubs out there. Hopefuly we won't all be tarred with the same brush.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on April 19, 2011, 02:41:17 pm
Some Uni club members just like trying to solo HS's at the cliff to show off to the younger members  ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on April 19, 2011, 02:58:48 pm
 :-[
Surely you must have forgotten this by now?! I must protest the point about showing off. It was just me and a friend there that day if I remember right.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 19, 2011, 03:03:41 pm
Quote from: Paul Calf
Ladies and gentlemen of the jury, I am not on trial here today, society is on trial. Oh fuck it, I'm on trial, aren't I?

But I'm not in contention with the prosecution's version of events. On that we agree. There was a student, he was acting up, he got a slap. But I was under severe provocation.

There I was, having a quiet climb, when a student walked past and put tick marks all over the route next to me. I did what any fine, upstanding citizen would do. I followed him to the decent path and kicked his head in. Perhaps I should have stopped kicking him when he was in the ambulance. But I did what I did because I want to live in a world where we can do a route without fear of it being chalked by a student. I that a crime? Is it a crime to want to live in a world of peace and harmony? Is it a crime to live in a world of love? Is it a crime to hit a student across the back of the head with a snooker ball in a sock?"

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on April 19, 2011, 03:13:35 pm

Surely you must have forgotten this by now?!

I thought I was going to watch someone take a groundfall from about 8 m right in front of me: that may happen regularly when you go climbing, but it doesn't to me, so no I haven't forgotten.  I seem to remember you had a serious fall soon after.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on April 19, 2011, 09:47:36 pm
Yes, but that was quite unrelated. On lead and with good kit in the rock. Sometimes shit just happens!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mark s on April 30, 2011, 01:43:35 pm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37935700@N08/5671842027/#in/photostream (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37935700@N08/5671842027/#in/photostream)

spotted on staffs flyer last week.the line was over 12 inches long :wall:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mr__j5 on May 01, 2011, 06:48:47 pm
No photos, but just got back from Font and I couldn't believe how many more tick marks there are compared to previously.

I spent quite a bit of time brushing them off.

Some problems had a tick mark on every concievable usable edge. Surprise at Isatis was pretty bad.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: heelhookofglory on May 02, 2011, 11:29:48 am
No pics but Ousal Low, at Churnet, was ticked to death when I got there yesterday morning. I cleaned some of it but couldn't get it all off. I heard that Virgin Wall was, too.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Big Dave on May 03, 2011, 12:44:48 pm
Must be all the dry weather, Wimberry was shocking the other day, Local Hero wall on the Sugarloaf boulder had marks on every hold and 6 inch long chalk lines on the footholds in the first break which are easily visible!

Sloping top and groove boulder bad also. Fish arete was caked in chalk, well all the way up the arete, no chalk at all on the top hold.  :-\
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Barratt on May 03, 2011, 10:01:38 pm
Went up to Curbar today, ticks all over gorilla warfare block were extraordinary.

After me and my mate had done I forgot to get them brushed off. If someones about, take a look, it's mental.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andi Mac on May 03, 2011, 10:43:07 pm
...Wimberry was shocking the other day

 :agree: I was there at the weekend.  Sloping Top was a mess, especially the lower moves on The Slot and Fat Slapper, which were caked.  Tried and failed to brush some off.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on May 19, 2011, 05:48:12 pm
I was at Ilkley today, some Cunt has etched "L. Copley" at the bottom of first arête.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: account_inactive on May 19, 2011, 05:49:27 pm
Is that a joke?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Iesu on May 19, 2011, 05:54:12 pm
Is that a joke?

cracker almost the full length of the roof of Dolphin Belly Slap at the minute. i think it's in case you forget which way you're supposed to be climbing
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on May 19, 2011, 06:28:58 pm
Sadly, Dylan, it is no joke.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on May 19, 2011, 07:11:58 pm
I was at Ilkley today, some Cunt has etched "L. Copley" at the bottom of first arête.

as in etched or chalked word? either is retarded obviously, but...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Footwork on May 19, 2011, 07:45:34 pm
Is that a joke?

cracker almost the full length of the roof of Dolphin Belly Slap at the minute. i think it's in case you forget which way you're supposed to be climbing

Yeah the whole demon wall roof area is a state. I don't even know why the marks are there, you can see which holds you want to be going for anyway! If it's hard and you're working it, the moves end up getting wired so theres no need for marks.  :no:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tommytwotone on May 19, 2011, 08:47:00 pm
Must be a Yorkshire ting at the momentt!

Just got back from a session pottering a Calog and The Horn was a state - ticks, dots next to the humungous pebble(!), all sorts. Did the best I could with my little toothbrush but was pretty taken aback.

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Robl on May 19, 2011, 09:09:03 pm
Photo from DWR / DBS on tuesday pm.

(http://www.flickr.com/photos/roblonsdale/5737824536/)

Seriously...  :spank:

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on May 19, 2011, 09:56:33 pm
I was at Ilkley today, some Cunt has etched "L. Copley" at the bottom of first arête.

as in etched or chalked word? either is retarded obviously, but...

Scratched into the rock.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on May 19, 2011, 10:26:07 pm
I was at Ilkley today, some Cunt has etched "L. Copley" at the bottom of first arête.

as in etched or chalked word? either is retarded obviously, but...

Scratched into the rock.

WTF? either L. Copley dafter than I thought possible or someone has done it as some kind of strange joke/frame up...?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on May 19, 2011, 10:39:19 pm
You'd have to be an idiot to scratch your own name into the rock. Like leaving your name on a murder weapon.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Iesu on May 20, 2011, 11:21:15 am
You'd have to be an idiot to scratch your own name into the rock. Like leaving your name on a murder weapon.
exaggemerate much?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on May 22, 2011, 02:47:24 pm
A couple of photos on The LankyTwat Blog. (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/accurate-weather-forecast.html)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Big Dave on May 23, 2011, 11:28:26 am
I thought I heard somewhere that the Copley's had moved to New Zealand?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on May 23, 2011, 11:42:16 am
Possibly, but I don't think anyone is suggesting it was Liam that did this anyway.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Iesu on May 23, 2011, 12:23:02 pm
A couple of photos on The LankyTwat Blog. (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/accurate-weather-forecast.html)

I was there yesterday avo and didn't even notice the L Copley tag; I was obviously distracted by my total inability to climb First Arete...

The ones over at Olicana Wall are far more obvious/intrusive
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cheque on May 23, 2011, 06:36:20 pm
I noticed some idiot had drawn numbers next to the holds on a problem at Pleasley Vale yesterday.

(http://i.imgur.com/j74Sb.jpg)

Hopefully you can make out the '5' to the left of the lower-right sidepull. The holds are perma-chalked due to the steepness anyway and the sequences are fucking obvious.

I got rid of the lower ones but I couldn't lock off long enough to get rid of the top three. I'm assuming this means they were drawn on a top rope as the idea that climbers who are better than me think that this behaviour is OK is too depressing to contemplate!

I was joined by an intrigued local fella who had no idea about bouldering at one point. One of the questions he asked me was "you draw numbers on to find your way do you?" An insight into the damage these chalked-wielding pricks do to our reputation.  >:(
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on May 25, 2011, 10:21:28 am
Possibly, but I don't think anyone is suggesting it was Liam that did this anyway.

Unless you assume the Jasper in the other pic is Mr Sharpe.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cheque on May 25, 2011, 10:34:54 pm
I got rid of the lower ones but I couldn't lock off long enough to get rid of the top three.

Turns out I was just using a shit sequence for the problem in question. Numbers now removed.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on May 26, 2011, 08:49:03 am
Maybe it was an eliminate? :)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: underground on June 03, 2011, 08:02:20 am
I walked past T crack at cratcliffe last night and it's covered in lines and marker points, looks a right state. I didn't clean anything in the absence of any kit, couldn't really reach either
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on June 16, 2011, 10:44:02 pm
(http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/252574_10100205380225159_197815253_55271822_4615009_n.jpg)
Spotted at Portlethen, drawn to a jug you can see from anywhere on that shore.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: old cheese on June 18, 2011, 08:33:16 pm
(http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/252574_10100205380225159_197815253_55271822_4615009_n.jpg)
Spotted at Portlethen, drawn to a jug you can see from anywhere on that shore.

Andy, where is the bouldering in relation to the village of portlethen? heard about the bouldering but never actually seen any
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on June 20, 2011, 10:42:43 am
Head to NE corner of Portlethen, following signs for Medical Centre. Head past medical centre and follow signs for old Portlethen. Park on right opposite pub is probably best. walk towards sea and take second right cul de sac, and follow path that looks liek you are going into someones back garden. turn left towards coast and cross fence on right at small block stile. Follow path south until you see an obvious muddy path / ramp heading down to shoreline. You will know you are in the right place as there are some short bolted routes on the right. Explore up and down the coast in that area. Expect short problems and bad landings - decent padding is advisable.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy B on June 20, 2011, 04:25:05 pm
I've been having to brush off a lot of tick marks at The Tor and Blackwell Dale recently. Including a 2 foot long banana on the Low Start to Red or Dead. Can people please make a little effort to brush off any ticks they've made, and any others they see, as the amount left on crags seems to be reaching ever uglier levels.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on June 20, 2011, 05:06:00 pm
Ditto i had to brush a load off kudos wall. Pretty amazing given there aren't any blind holds on that entire wall.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on June 20, 2011, 05:45:46 pm
old cheese- What Chris said. give me a shout if you're available evenings and weekends for a session.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on June 20, 2011, 05:54:03 pm
Did you manage to meet up with the Coolboy?  Getting much done?  I went once and got spanked!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on June 20, 2011, 07:32:36 pm
I've been dozens of times and still get spanked.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on June 24, 2011, 06:39:19 pm
No, he's always busy. Watched his videos for beta plenty of times though.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy B on July 08, 2011, 05:27:28 pm
Brushed all the ticks that I could reach off the Tor yet again on Tuesday and half of them were back on by Thursday. Also picked up a carrier bags worth of litter from around the base of the crag. All very disappointing really.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on July 08, 2011, 05:35:48 pm
Similarly i had an eyeball of Dogs Dinner buttress last weekend and pretty much every single handhold was ticked. Annoyingly i hadn't got a brush on me.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on July 09, 2011, 09:51:57 am
You had your tongue with you though?  :P
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 13, 2011, 05:11:45 pm
Brushed all the ticks that I could reach off the Tor yet again on Tuesday and half of them were back on by Thursday. Also picked up a carrier bags worth of litter from around the base of the crag. All very disappointing really.

Can someone else go and do the handholds.

Seriously, this is very shit.  :spank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nik at work on July 13, 2011, 05:24:26 pm
I used to think, and felt I had reasonable annecdotal evidence to back up my thinking, that climbers were a bunch of altogether decent chaps and chapesses (with the odd bad apple no doubt)

What with chalk everywhere, litter, in-situ draws, shit parking and people pissing in car parks I am developing the opinion the climbing population is increasingly comprised of selfish inconsidererate people...

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 13, 2011, 05:40:35 pm
There does seem to be a lot of this type of shit about at the moment (it may just be because it is publicised better due to UKB) with the common theme being laziness / selfishness.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on July 13, 2011, 06:00:52 pm
What with chalk everywhere, litter, in-situ draws, shit parking and people pissing in car parks I am developing the opinion the climbing population is increasingly comprised of selfish inconsidererate people...



Look you fucking hippie, if thats what it takes to get me up F8c then thats what I'm gonna do and fuck everyone else. Afterall if its good enough for the spanish then its good enough for me.

I'm off for a dump under mecca.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy B on July 13, 2011, 10:53:52 pm
Can someone else go and do the handholds.

Oi! I'm secretly tall me. Just not as tall as the lanky buggers I climb with.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dunnyg on July 15, 2011, 03:21:10 pm
http://yorkclimbers.com/forum/topics/aving-the-crack?xg_source=activity (http://yorkclimbers.com/forum/topics/aving-the-crack?xg_source=activity)

Saw some writing on the other channel.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2011, 03:30:01 pm
A fucking joke surely?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Baron on July 17, 2011, 12:17:52 pm
Remember this(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG00181-20100831-1821.jpg)

Take a bow Mr Mitchell for your efforts on Wellington Crack: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=466637 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=466637)

How can someone who's been climbing for as long as he has still get it so wrong?

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Paul B on July 17, 2011, 01:01:50 pm
this'll be what you'd want to click:
http://yorkclimbers.com/forum/topics/aving-the-crack (http://yorkclimbers.com/forum/topics/aving-the-crack)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: chummer on July 17, 2011, 01:17:27 pm
Is that for real or a wind up 'cos I am ready to take the bait and swim over to the other channel?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: petejh on July 17, 2011, 05:47:09 pm
http://yorkclimbers.com/forum/topics/aving-the-crack?xg_source=activity (http://yorkclimbers.com/forum/topics/aving-the-crack?xg_source=activity)

Saw some writing on the other channel.

Unbefuckinglievable. 'Climber in selfish act shocker'.

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Falling Down on July 17, 2011, 07:47:33 pm
That's Bhuddists for ya...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: chummer on July 17, 2011, 08:22:13 pm

"Climbing is an art,sometimes a transcendental art.It is best performed as dance,or as near dance as you can.

If you can't do the move,then become the person who CAN do the move."


That's from his UKC profile. Amazing, something not quite right upstairs me thinks.  :no:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: petejh on July 17, 2011, 11:24:25 pm
"Climbing is an art,sometimes a transcendental art.It is best performed as dance,or as near dance as you can.
If you can't do the move,then become the person who CAN do the move."

'That's from his ukc profile...'


He's certainly an artist; and I guess 'becoming the person who CAN do the move' is always possible when there's crib notes written on the rock telling you which part of your body to move.  ::)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on July 18, 2011, 10:14:58 am
Word is he had a walkman giving him beta on breathing in and out too
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on July 18, 2011, 10:33:27 am
It's rather sad that we are up to 32 pages on this topic.   :spank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2011, 10:55:29 am
Well I'm going to carry on making tickmarks because they are convenient to me and make the climb easier to do, plus it's too much effort to clean them off at the end of the day. I don't think other climbers or non-climbers find them visually unattractive either, because they don't bother me.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 18, 2011, 11:03:55 am
Yes. Unless you can give me clear proof that ticking up Ilkey Quarry causes access problems I cannot see what the issue is.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 18, 2011, 11:15:28 am
The sooner climbers lose access rights to the quarry, the sooner I can crack on with my plan to seal it off with a big sheet of polycarbonate and turn it into Yorkshires biggest outdoor dolphinarium. I'm hoping to train the inmates to reenact the first aid ascent of Wellington Crack - only underwater and with real dolphins putting in the pegs.

The chalk that is on there at the moment should wash off when the quarry is flooded.

Obviously, the proposed cable car from the railway station will be very useful for lazy climbers who depend on public transport.

Everyone's a winner!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on July 18, 2011, 11:19:01 am
You know, Lagers, I can't see a single downside to that plan!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2011, 11:28:09 am
It was bollocks?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on July 18, 2011, 11:41:40 am
What, you don't think Dolphins could hold a peg hammer?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 18, 2011, 11:43:08 am
It was bollocks?

no, I'm pretty sure the chalk will come off
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 18, 2011, 11:46:43 am
The top station for the cable car will be next to, and level with, the back of The Calf for easy access.

On the days when the dolphinarium is cleaned out, the water level in the quarry will be adjusted to allow DWS ascents of the chalk free routes.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: chummer on July 18, 2011, 01:25:04 pm
Bugger. I was hoping to turn the quarry into Yorkshires very own Rathro
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tim palmer on July 18, 2011, 01:33:44 pm
Well I suppose the guys on Wellington crack probably thought "well if it is good enough for leo houlding......."

(http://www.berghaus.com/community/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Leo-houlding-The-Prophet.jpg)

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mark s on July 18, 2011, 02:25:40 pm
It seems pretty obvious he like trying to wind people up.myself,I could give a fuck about the fat fake bhuddist.it sums him up that he is too wank to climb gumshoe at ramshaw,so climbed to half height and escaped up a vs.then claimed it a F.A ! I spoke more sense when I had a key load of ketamine
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on July 18, 2011, 11:26:12 pm
.myself,I could give a fuck about the fat fake bhuddist.it sums him up that he is too wank to climb ...

Classy diatribe. Just a tiny bit overboard.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Robl on August 03, 2011, 04:29:11 pm
was at the cliff last nite, seems to be blathered in chalk since last visit, keel boulder especially bad. almost looks like liquid chalk has been poured / brushed into holds. and a MASSIVE tick line has appeared which i couldn't scrub off with any of my brushes...

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/825/photohm.jpg/ (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/825/photohm.jpg/)

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Control freak on August 10, 2011, 03:52:04 am
Spotted this on the other channel - there's some pretty low handholds there

Pete Whittaker on FA of Silent Scream (http://vimeo.com/27434955)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Moo on August 10, 2011, 02:32:24 pm
I think it's time we stopped promoting the growth of the number of people climbing in the uk and started educating the current crop better. We haven't got enough rock for this kind of thing to start happening regularly.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: TomP on August 10, 2011, 03:49:10 pm
was at the cliff last nite, seems to be blathered in chalk since last visit, keel boulder especially bad. almost looks like liquid chalk has been poured / brushed into holds. and a MASSIVE tick line has appeared which i couldn't scrub off with any of my brushes...

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/825/photohm.jpg/ (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/825/photohm.jpg/)



Agreed. The use of chalk has been more than excessive. It's really unnecessary and looks horrible. Some of the tick marks are feet long, I just can't understand it. Some holds have been caked in chalk. I think it may be some one who thinks that, because it's warm and sweaty, holds need to be plastered to get the best grip.

If anyone sees the person(s) plastering the place in chalk try to explain why it's not appropriate. It can be tricky pulling people up on these things as they can get very defensive. Hopefully they won't take offence and listen
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Yoof on August 15, 2011, 08:45:54 pm
Burbage bridge today. Nigh on every hold on the block left of wobble block had a small THICK finger mark of chalk on it today. Anyway I did my bit and whipped the brush out, swearing and cursing the perpetrators as I went. I got all I could off but there are some gay looking soft white lines left...  >:(
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: yorkshireman on September 24, 2011, 08:46:53 pm
ilkley yesterday,looks like there has been a team attempt on the new statesman,photo doesnt show how bad it looked and the extent of tick marks and the sheer amount of chalk (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/beastofackworth/2011-09-23142314.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on September 24, 2011, 10:14:17 pm
I saw that today, horrid overchalking!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: yorkshireman on September 24, 2011, 11:21:11 pm
We spent a few minutes cleaning chalk off ringpiece too.everywhere with a close by carpatk seems to attract the chalk whores
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Eddies on September 24, 2011, 11:48:30 pm
I believe a Swiss team guided by a local are responsable!
https://twitter.com/#!/stevehoneyman (https://twitter.com/#!/stevehoneyman)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: yorkshireman on September 25, 2011, 12:15:36 am
Maybe he needs to show them how to clean up after themselves too.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nathan wind on September 25, 2011, 08:30:13 am
I believe a Swiss team guided by a local are responsable!
https://twitter.com/#!/stevehoneyman (https://twitter.com/#!/stevehoneyman)

And maybe you need to get your facts straight before you use my titter feed to suggest that any of us were responsible. 

I'm the 'local' in question and the line was like this before we got there.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: robertostallioni on September 25, 2011, 08:34:23 am
BOOM!Good day out?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nathan wind on September 25, 2011, 08:55:16 am
Ha ha! Yes thanks Rob, it was..

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nathan wind on September 25, 2011, 10:11:32 am
Maybe he needs to show them how to clean up after themselves too.

Funny, we're laughing at your post right now.. or rather laughing at you..

Seriously, get your facts straight before you start spraying about people and situations you seemingly know nothing about - or maybe you'd like to come and explain to us where we're going wrong? The Swiss are here for a week after all, and they're keen to discuss crag ethics..

To be honest this kind of shit, ie posts such as your's really bug me.. I've lost count of the times I've picked shit up from blocs as diverse as Two Squirrels, Brad Pit etc  - places only climbers go, are you gonna blame me or the pesky Europeans for this? I take it you're beyond reproach? Like me you take a litter bag up to pick other peoples shit up when you go out right? clean off other people's tick marks?

Comical really to think that these were the same guys who, that day, cleaned up a load of shit from around the crag that wasn't theirs, challenged a bunch of kids for throwing litter round the moor and as activists at places such as Magic and Chironico spend their time trying and reduce the impact of often foreign climbers who threaten access to their crags.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: yorkshireman on September 25, 2011, 12:26:22 pm
Laugh all you want fella,my fact are perfectly right that the new statesman is covered in chalk and tick marks and wasn't cleaned off before it was left by the people who were working it.I never stated it was you,I never supplied the twitter link etc but regardless even if you didn't do it but went.on the route afterwards you should have cleaned it off as I'm sure some of the chalk was yours.I too pick up litter that's other peoples,most climbers do,you don't have a monopoly on that!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: yorkshireman on September 25, 2011, 12:28:09 pm
Oh and boo hoo at giving me negative e karma you baby,grow up!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on September 25, 2011, 12:32:57 pm
I find it strange that you spout that you and your team were challenging kids for littering and were cleaning after others yet you can't clean after yourself

I find it strange that you can draw that from a post where he clearly says he does clean up after himself.

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: yorkshireman on September 25, 2011, 12:35:41 pm
Have changed my post as I missread his innitial post
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on September 27, 2011, 08:39:42 am
god you guys get a room. shortly i'm gonna walk to brad pit, put even more chalk on it n have a shit. just to liven the internet up a bit.
i'm glad this came up tho, it didn't go the way i'd been expecting over the last few years of everyone trying to bum each other to death over the net. what i expected was oooh i went for a walk holding daisies n saw a lot of chalk, i had to have a moment to myself in the lovely gritstone morning. when this passed i found myself stood near some poo, after coming back round i picked this up using one of the smaller of the 2 plastic bags i carry for such emergencies. i noticed the sweetcorn and suspected the guilty parties couldn't be from around these parts.
but this didn't happen, like i said it was a pleasant surprise.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jim on September 27, 2011, 09:34:14 am
at least something cheering you up
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nash1 on September 27, 2011, 12:00:00 pm
I know it's 8C, but still...
http://j.ukc2.com/i/182969.jpg (http://j.ukc2.com/i/182969.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on September 27, 2011, 12:02:34 pm
You'll need to put in the URL of the page, as UKC don't allow embedding.

I'm guessing it's the pic in Thomas Willenburg article though.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on September 27, 2011, 12:33:12 pm
Yes it is. Horrendous. Although the holds don't exist without a layer of chalk to make them bigger.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on September 27, 2011, 12:35:24 pm
This article (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64154), but the image in question seems to have died.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on September 27, 2011, 12:45:17 pm
Only in your cache...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on September 27, 2011, 12:57:41 pm
Shame, it was an eyesore.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Falling Down on October 22, 2011, 06:34:14 pm
Posted this on t'other channel.  I'm not sure I can be arsed climbing much longer if this is the way its going.

Nipped out for a couple of hours at lunchtime to the plantation and was dismayed by several very visible tick marks, arrows and chalk lines on what are relatively easy problems. Worst of all, someone's been using coloured blackboard chalk (yes someone actually bought a pack of chalk sticks that we used at school to the crag to write on the rock!) to put circles and squares around hand or foot holds.

It took me and Brian a good 10 minutes to scrub a bright blue square off the Bullworker and there was an enormous foothold on the arête on the pebble that had been coloured in with pink and blue chalk and a massive f*ck off line with an arrow pointing to the hold. This was the starting foothold so it had clearly been decorated for someone incapable of getting off the ground.

We then spent half an hour cleaning various symbols and lines off the lone boulder. These are f*cking slab problems where you can see where you have to put your feet and hands.

If whoever did this is reading this post I hope you think next time before drawing lines everywhere.

I despair, I really do.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fried on October 22, 2011, 06:40:55 pm
I don't believe anyone here would be guilty of such stuff. But last time we attempted to discuss tick marks I seem to remember that people thought it was all a bit armchair and the other channel, so we'll just shut up about it then.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 22, 2011, 08:12:55 pm
check this out from 0:50

Adele - Rolling In The Deep (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYEDA3JcQqw#ws)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: metal arms on October 23, 2011, 07:57:04 pm
 :-\

She looks like a donkey? :shrug:

Anyway, cheers for that.  Never seen an Adele video before.  Now I'm off to bleach my eyes and cut off my ears.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on October 27, 2011, 12:00:12 pm
I must be doing something wrong, I usually put chalk on my hands  http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=185106 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=185106)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on October 27, 2011, 12:54:57 pm
I must be doing something wrong, I usually put chalk on my hands  http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=185106 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=185106)

That's nothing. A big bunch of lads (nationality unidentified) turned up on my last Bleau trip to try something we were working on so we moved away.
Their first action, before putting shoes on or anything was to literally fill all the holds with chalk using a brush as a spoon.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on October 27, 2011, 02:15:05 pm
But did they then post pictures of them doing it on a climbing site?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Paul B on October 27, 2011, 02:27:07 pm
I must be doing something wrong, I usually put chalk on my hands  http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=185106 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=185106)

I'm pretty sure Ben is a user of this forum and can defend himself adequately. However, I highly doubt he left the problem in a bad state.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on October 27, 2011, 02:38:18 pm
I think he is (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1108), and I'm sure he tidied up afterwards.  It just seems a little odd to post a picture "chalking up 7 Ball" on UKC where most of the users will then go forth and do the same, then not tidy up afterwards  :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Paul B on October 27, 2011, 02:42:21 pm
I think he is, and I'm sure he tidied up afterwards.  It just seems a little odd to post a picture "chalking up 7 Ball" on UKC where most of the users will then go forth and do the same, then not tidy up afterwards  :shrug:

I know we're not a fans of the other channel over here on the smug side but seriously, I'm sure they're not all sheep.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on October 27, 2011, 02:44:41 pm
No, but UKC has a far higher number of users and I suspect there are more sheep there than here meaning numbers are higher.

But you're right I suppose, it's not anything we should be concerned about.....
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 27, 2011, 02:55:56 pm
Whatever, introducing into anyone's mind that the rock ever needs 'chalking up' is a very bad thing.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Oldmanmatt on October 27, 2011, 03:54:23 pm
Perhaps it's a long term plan to turn it into Lime...
Slight flaw though, what with it being the wrong carbonate...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Probes on November 02, 2011, 11:47:23 am
Up at Brideys yesterday and someone has been using what looks like bottles of sids jizz to put donkey marks up. On the indian head and a bit around the bridestone. Just squirting the shit in big lines. Luckily i think as its been a bit wild up there lately its starting to wash off. Fucking dicks, ill squirt the stuff in their eyes if i catch em.   :wank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fultonius on November 07, 2011, 02:08:22 pm
I've got a genuine question, and I'm willing to try and change my ways if folks think my approach is...unacceptable...

When trad climbing at my limit, I sometimes give potential footholds a wee clean with a little rag that stays in my chalk bag. (to get rid of any lichen/greasyness) Obvisously chalk reduces the grip levels of bare rock, but a lot of the stuff I climb on in Scotland gets a bit grubby, so cleaning does help. I also sometimes leave a tiny chalk dot to help identify a potential foothold that may be hard to spot.

Just for clarity, I'm talking about doing this mid route, mid onsight, when potential footholds for the upcoming sequence are at waist to above-head height.

Clearly, I could use a brush instead, but fiddling around with a brush mid route is tricky.

Should I leave the rock clean, risking blowing an onsight, but then leaving the onsight more pure for the next suitor?

 :-\
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2011, 02:32:29 pm
Have I strayed onto UKC? :)

Surely a bit of chalk and a rub to clean some footholds is a community service?

Given the weather in Scotland, if a route is dirty enough that you need to clean some holds, then what is the likelyhood that it's going to get climbed again before your chalk is washed away?

Surely what you do is a milion miles away from donkey lines and tickmarks?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 07, 2011, 02:38:29 pm
All this UKC bollocks about onsight winds me up. What matters is your state of mind not a dab of chalk on a foothold. Making the definition of onsight so strict only serves to make the so-called 'flash' cover ever more shades of grey.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fultonius on November 07, 2011, 02:42:54 pm
 Sorry!  :chair:

I'll keep on making my life easier with discreet chalky dabs! I find it really helps me to visualise the moves and focus mor eon my feet (a weakness of mine).

Anyway, I've strayed far enough  :off: for today...
Title: Re: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on November 07, 2011, 02:43:54 pm
Have I strayed onto UKC? :)

Surely a bit of chalk and a rub to clean some footholds is a community service?

Given the weather in Scotland, if a route is dirty enough that you need to clean some holds, then what is the likelyhood that it's going to get climbed again before your chalk is washed away?

Surely what you do is a milion miles away from donkey lines and tickmarks?

If its scotland chances are it'll be raining before your second reaches the belay anyway.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2011, 02:48:39 pm
Before you've tied in!

Actually not rained here since Friday morning. Unprecedented.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fultonius on November 07, 2011, 02:54:48 pm
Before you've tied in!

Normally barely worth using chalk at all. In fact, I might start taking out some waterproof metal markers for my tick marks, then the pesky Scottish rain won't have a chance against my industrial strength tick marks!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: CanadianDave on November 21, 2011, 11:42:41 pm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9N17cVHwr10&feature=player_embedded# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9N17cVHwr10&feature=player_embedded#)!
A new low at 4:15.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fried on November 22, 2011, 06:08:29 am
Probably worth reading the comments on Youtube before the lynching.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: huwtj on November 27, 2011, 05:54:51 pm
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7021/6412654297_bef8ea8da0_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/huwtj/6412654297/)

Not sure whoever was on the Anchor at Brimham today used enough chalk! I cleaned about 5 huge donkey lines off from under the roof but unfortunately didn't have a big enough brush to get rid of all the chalk...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: north_country_boy on November 27, 2011, 10:17:59 pm
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7021/6412654297_bef8ea8da0_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/huwtj/6412654297/)

Not sure whoever was on the Anchor at Brimham today used enough chalk! I cleaned about 5 huge donkey lines off from under the roof but unfortunately didn't have a big enough brush to get rid of all the chalk...

We must have arrived to do this after you had brushed these off as although it was coated in chalk, it wasn't ticked up....Good work for brushing them off, there must have been a monumental amount of chalk on the sloper prior to the rain!!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: stevej on November 27, 2011, 11:44:11 pm
Not a tick mark but not cool. Next to the Robin Hood's cave descent, very very obvious from the top path. Words are at least a foot high... (sorry for crappy phone cam)

(http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/8941/20111126150924.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Snoops on November 28, 2011, 08:42:21 am
Not a tick mark but not cool. Next to the Robin Hood's cave descent, very very obvious from the top path. Words are at least a foot high... (sorry for crappy phone cam)

(http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/8941/20111126150924.jpg)

Have the twats done that with chalk or a stone?
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on November 28, 2011, 09:09:07 am
Looks like blue and red chalk to me...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on November 28, 2011, 09:48:47 am
No picture, but did my best to brush off a load of circles that had been drawn round smears on various boulders around Cratcliffe yesterday.  Not sure who out of the different groups was responsible, but  :spank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: stevej on November 28, 2011, 10:50:43 am
Have the twats done that with chalk or a stone?

Now I feel like a muppet because I'm not sure. It was blowing an absolute gale and getting dark so didn't take a closer look but I thought it was scratched in. Hopefully I'm wrong.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Moo on December 15, 2011, 02:35:38 am
You might not get the best impression from this photo but marks roof left hand was heavily caked in chalk to try and dry it out presumably. Especially poor form as it was just left this way and the flake its hollow and fragile so likely to break if climbed on in the wet.

 (http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa426/moomastico/2011-12-14153127.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on December 15, 2011, 08:17:34 am
I really don't get how you could dry out a wet holds with chalk. whenever I've tried, the final result was worse than before, I think that's because the dry chalk actually pulls out more wet from the rock.
I think paper tissues and a rag are better.  :off:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: huwtj on December 20, 2011, 04:33:42 pm
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7167/6544209811_915dc7969f_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/huwtj/6544209811/)

Jess' Roof today. I just don't understand how these help?!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: chris20 on December 26, 2011, 04:46:01 pm
Not a tick mark but not cool. Next to the Robin Hood's cave descent, very very obvious from the top path. Words are at least a foot high... (sorry for crappy phone cam)

(http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/8941/20111126150924.jpg)

Have the twats done that with chalk or a stone?

I was up there today and had a quick look and it looks like it's been done with stone
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on December 26, 2011, 06:29:15 pm
Nomina stultorum scribuntur ubique locorum
as they used to say in Rome back in tha day.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: clm on December 26, 2011, 07:29:00 pm
If stanage is a mountain then theres definately a joke there.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: account_inactive on December 27, 2011, 12:10:51 am
Nomina stultorum scribuntur ubique locorum
as they used to say in Rome back in tha day.
I always preferred 'Ancilla Face Mea Leganum'
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on December 27, 2011, 07:53:03 am
classic, I'd say.
 ;D
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Digital amnesia on January 06, 2012, 08:56:04 am
Hi, first post here and I'm moaning lol. No pictures but some tools had numbered a problem (1-5 on obvious holds) at pleasley vale. Only took 2 mins to clean so why not do it when you leave! Or better still if you need to climb by numbers get a new hobby lol
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: CanadianDave on January 09, 2012, 10:14:19 pm
A bit off topic but I was not sure where to put it.

Absolutely flabbergasted by this:

http://www.ehow.com/how_8184445_homemade-climbing-rocks.html (http://www.ehow.com/how_8184445_homemade-climbing-rocks.html)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Pebblespanker on January 10, 2012, 04:13:54 pm
No worries Dave if they also follow the instructions on the same page for

http://www.ehow.com/way_5403379_homemade-climbing-harness.html (http://www.ehow.com/way_5403379_homemade-climbing-harness.html)

they are not likely to be a problem for very long ... we can but hope
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 10, 2012, 05:44:36 pm
better yet

http://www.ehow.com/how_4621605_homemade-rock-climbing-gear.html (http://www.ehow.com/how_4621605_homemade-rock-climbing-gear.html)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Dangerous Dave 123 on January 16, 2012, 10:42:48 pm
Was up at bonehill today just having a look round, and I noticed that the 2nd hold on The Wave Traverse was caked in 1cm of chalk, no joke. I got most of it off but it still looks a mess, but atleast you can feel the small crystal in it now.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on January 17, 2012, 12:48:24 am
better yet

http://www.ehow.com/how_4621605_homemade-rock-climbing-gear.html (http://www.ehow.com/how_4621605_homemade-rock-climbing-gear.html)

I'm loving that disclaimer!

"Rock-climbing is dangerous, and in no way is this article meant to advise or recommend making your own equipment. Use at your own risk."

Despite describing how to make your own gear!!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: yorkshireman on January 17, 2012, 12:58:30 am
Not a tick mark but not cool. Next to the Robin Hood's cave descent, very very obvious from the top path. Words are at least a foot high... (sorry for crappy phone cam)

(http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/8941/20111126150924.jpg)

looks like mohammed doesnt have good spacial awareness of the room needed to write his name,although he learned his lesson and got it right second time round ::)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Red on February 01, 2012, 06:08:39 pm
(http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lyq7n5TYiv1qh0s4z.jpg)

Iron Man Traverse, Buttermilks
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Plattsy on February 01, 2012, 06:25:56 pm
I was going to make some really clever comment about sometimes holds are tricky to see etc etc. Then I noticed the tick marks are annotated.  :slap:
Perhaps it's a story and a take on the 5 little piggies. "This little crimp went to market and this little sloper stayed at home. This fat pinch had roast beef and this marginal half crimp had none, and this little finger jug went wee wee wee all the way home".
Twats.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on February 01, 2012, 11:04:45 pm
There was exactly the same thing when we were there, I brushed them all off and a German guy came over a little later and said 'it's so annoying I worked out my sequence and I had marked which holds were for the left, which were for the right and the one I had to match, but they keep on being taken off.'  I tried to explain the error of his ways...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: account_inactive on February 02, 2012, 02:27:10 am
I thought that the ticks were just ticks from a distance because the sun was very bright. It's very odd behaviour to say the least. I carry a large brush these days to clean shit like this off
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 02, 2012, 09:46:31 am
Did Paul Mitchell say he was having a good trip?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Richie Crouch on March 20, 2012, 03:24:06 pm
No pictures but whoever was up at the Boysen's Groove boulder before us yesterday morning/afternoon is a helm.

There is no need to cover the holds on the witch with the insane amount of chalk we found. They felt slippery as until we spent a good few minutes brushing all of the holds for several minutes (as well as the tick marked footholds all the way across the bottom) and miraculously the friction improved!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: measles23 on April 10, 2012, 09:20:04 pm
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/bellerophon23/ukb/IMG_0488.jpg)


River of life today

Wouldn't brush off; won't get rained off; not even pointing at the good bit  :spank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 10, 2012, 09:43:59 pm

River of life by Van Gogh

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on April 10, 2012, 10:01:50 pm
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/bellerophon23/ukb/IMG_0488.jpg)


River of life today

Wouldn't brush off; won't get rained off; not even pointing at the good bit  :spank:

fuck me thats ridiculous - who are these idiots? Thats not even a blind hold, and getting it is about the easiest move on there!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: measles23 on April 10, 2012, 10:24:57 pm

River of life by Van Gogh


I was thinking Monet.. after his eyesight had gone!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: HaeMeS on April 11, 2012, 06:18:19 pm
Tickmark? (http://etienne.seppecher.free.fr./wordpress/wp-content/gallery/cache/459__600x600_ft-2.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on April 11, 2012, 08:37:09 pm
no, the mark of an idiot.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on April 11, 2012, 09:03:10 pm
going for bully special prize.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cheque on April 11, 2012, 09:11:32 pm
(http://i.imgur.com/BQqfgl.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: sidewinder on April 26, 2012, 01:20:14 pm
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/bellerophon23/ukb/IMG_0488.jpg)


River of life today

Wouldn't brush off; won't get rained off; not even pointing at the good bit  :spank:

This was it a little time previous (at night so apologies for the poor image) as you can see it was in fact worse, the tail of the arrow extended pretty much the full width of the flake/feature you hug (what is the correct term for this I wonder)
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/jshearring/img0048a.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on May 21, 2012, 10:33:08 am
Walked past mossattrocity last night. Covered in tickmarks. Looks real classy, thanks.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on May 21, 2012, 11:32:37 am
Seems to be a lot of it about these days. Even Stanton-in-the-Woods was plastered in lines the other day (Eyes to the Skies, Hangman and Lean-to).

Two words: TOOTHBRUSH and WATER, please!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: leeroy on May 21, 2012, 12:05:36 pm
that end of stanton was plastered a few days before. seems to have grown in popularity and therefore chalk...
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on May 23, 2012, 07:14:00 am
(http://img.tapatalk.com/577096d7-7fe3-846e.jpg) nice big lines under the footholds on the easy traverse on Ben's Wall block at the Stride yesterday.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on May 23, 2012, 07:52:50 am
Idiots! At least its easy to wash of :whistle:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on May 23, 2012, 08:08:05 am
with piss?  :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on May 23, 2012, 08:11:29 am
That'd work, (although obviously water would be preferable as its not an awkward spot to reach).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on May 23, 2012, 08:52:27 am
(http://img.tapatalk.com/577096d7-7fe3-846e.jpg) nice big lines under the footholds on the easy traverse on Ben's Wall block at the Stride yesterday.

Fuckers. Some wankers washed off the numbers I'd carefully placed (in Gothic no less) next to each one of those tick marks. Tsk.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on May 23, 2012, 09:39:57 am
That'd work, (although obviously water would be preferable as its not an awkward spot to reach).

It's OK, I know what you meant.
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on May 27, 2012, 07:59:07 pm
From Harmers wood today. Most of it pretty pointless. The letters were scratched in presumably by the nobs who had a party there and left a load of glass/litter. The tckmarks/chalk were I assume from climbers. Mostly pointless. (http://img.tapatalk.com/5284d6f4-795b-c717.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/5284d6a9-796b-60a2.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/5284d6a9-7978-68ee.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sam on June 13, 2012, 09:50:41 am
some spark has scratched the legend "HOMMO HADRY" by the belay bolts of Little Plum.  Most likely to be by a climber because it's right next to the bolt and what scallies are going to go up there for some ad-hoc graffiti? It's not very deep and will probably disappear after a winter of run off. But, if this was you, don't be such a dick in future.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: leeroy on June 18, 2012, 03:20:38 pm
some spark has scratched the legend "HOMMO HADRY" by the belay bolts of Little Plum.  Most likely to be by a climber because it's right next to the bolt and what scallies are going to go up there for some ad-hoc graffiti? It's not very deep and will probably disappear after a winter of run off. But, if this was you, don't be such a dick in future.

saw this in april and was tempted to put a photo on here, as you said at least it looks like it will wear off.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wil on June 24, 2012, 11:03:29 am
Kudos wall is looking a bit of a mess with tick marks at the moment, particularly Miller's Tale and the footholds on Kudos. Unfortunately my brush was rapidly losing bristles, so I felt I might be doing more harm than good scrubbing them off!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on June 24, 2012, 12:54:06 pm
I wish idiots would realise tickmarks on crags which never receive direct rainfall WILL NOT WASH OFF ON THEIR OWN. similarly the right hand side of terrace under the roof was a chalky mess last night.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: shark on August 14, 2012, 09:33:02 pm
Dave Thomas said there's a bad example marking the jug in the break of Skinless Wonder at the moment
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: benpritch on August 25, 2012, 11:05:32 am
http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/les-indignes-de-bleau.html (http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/les-indignes-de-bleau.html)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2012, 08:31:37 pm
Any French speakers care to give a precis of the post?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 25, 2012, 09:11:01 pm
okay, he has a lot to say (and very little specifically about the abuse of chalk although the relatively little frequented - but highly rated- Dampierre-Maincourt is singled out in this regard and photo included) but the general gist is this:

The website is dedicated to preserving the crag environment and does not deal with bouldering itself- though it's by and for boulderers.

There's a shocking amount of detritus out there. he apologises for not updating recently, it's because he's been on holiday - and finds himself and his pals utterly disgusted by the state of the boulders on his return - on this occasion Bas-Cuvier. Problems include litter, chalk, used toilet-tissue, used condoms, and those (of various persuasions) in the act of creating used condoms - not a suitable environment for anyone let alone the youngsters for whom these areas are often an intro to the sport. He'd like the authorities to get a grip, particularly those who use the woods for sex.


They may be about to get support from a major sports retailer who has put forward start of September for a crag clean-up day. He, his pals and various Parisian climbing clubs have had four clean-up days since April this year, removing an average of 250kg of rubbish each time ie 1 tonne shifted so far, added to the 14 tonnes already removed from the car-parks this year by the Forestry Service. As the editor of the Bleausard mag writes - 'wake up, numbnuts' it's time to protect our playground!

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2012, 09:16:26 pm
Thanks
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: masonwoods101 on October 01, 2012, 01:46:02 pm
saw some walkers at burbage bridge on saturday who found a chalk bag on the floor... they emptied the contents out into the wind.... also went to try wss and somebody had obviously tried to dry the lowest part of the rigtht hand rail by chalking it to death... tried to brush it off.  :chair:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: old cheese on October 01, 2012, 10:16:33 pm
saw some walkers at burbage bridge on saturday who found a chalk bag on the floor... they emptied the contents out into the wind.... also went to try wss and somebody had obviously tried to dry the lowest part of the rigtht hand rail by chalking it to death... tried to brush it off.  :chair:

I saw them too, that was ashes they were spreading!

Saw the chalk on WSS too. That was some guys just before us, I couldn't reach the hold to brush it. Weirdly it was a hold you don't use and it was bone dry
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: masonwoods101 on October 02, 2012, 10:01:59 am
really? shit  thought it was chalk. and we where on wss story about half 12 and we found it like that and tried to brush it. think some one had tried to stop seapage on to the lower hold when it was wet.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: LTL2B on October 02, 2012, 11:48:28 am
 :read:
Hi, first i appologie for my english :sorry:
About chalk and tick mark i published a lot of articles in the webzine of Font  and we try to explain climbers how change.
http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.fr/2012/07/la-magnesie-ca-fait-tache-brosser-cest.html (http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.fr/2012/07/la-magnesie-ca-fait-tache-brosser-cest.html)
or like this on 1er april http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.com/2012/04/les-grandes-marques-simpliquent-dans-la.html (http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.com/2012/04/les-grandes-marques-simpliquent-dans-la.html)

 :please: If ou have time read some of them, translate it, and tell us what you think about it.
 :wall: http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.com/2012/03/des-grimpeurs-blanc-comme-neige.html (http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.com/2012/03/des-grimpeurs-blanc-comme-neige.html)

 :spank: http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.com/2011/11/green-climbing-la-preuve-par-limage.html (http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.com/2011/11/green-climbing-la-preuve-par-limage.html)


I know you don't used "pof" in your country but read it to...
fabrication : http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.com/2011/06/fabrication-dun-pof-bleausard-modele.html (http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.com/2011/06/fabrication-dun-pof-bleausard-modele.html)

 :goodidea: and how used it in Font and bouldering !
http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.com/2011/06/fiche-pratique-2-lutilisation-du-pof.html (http://latribunelibredebleau.blogspot.com/2011/06/fiche-pratique-2-lutilisation-du-pof.html)

See you in Font, with a brush.
Have nice trip
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: RopeBoy on October 06, 2012, 03:59:42 pm
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7167/6544209811_915dc7969f_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/huwtj/6544209811/)

Jess' Roof today. I just don't understand how these help?!

Where is this?

J
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on October 06, 2012, 04:13:24 pm
Almscliff. To be fair it's hard to see these from the ground.. Ye
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SamT on October 09, 2012, 09:32:13 am

Hanging rib at burbage yesterday was a bit of a mess of chalk after the weekend.  Never seen donkey lines there and cant for the world work out how they help.
I did my best with a brush.

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8038/8070057445_b9217e6590.jpg)

more worrying was this..

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8457/8070058281_50155e677a.jpg)

Looks for all the world the same size as a standard builders bolster chisel. Cant recall it being there, but its been a while since I've been and it didn't look totally brand new.  Its just below the start of holds of the Hanging rib.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: schloosh on October 09, 2012, 01:14:26 pm
The mother of all tick marks on top of the Gorilla Warfare block this morning.
T marks the spot.... but of what?  :wank:

(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/12401191/gorilla_donkey.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Barratt on October 09, 2012, 02:03:55 pm
Terrace frist thing on Sunday. Perhaps not the worst but still a little bizarre.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img594/5025/img1827c.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/594/img1827c.jpg/)

Title: Re: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on October 09, 2012, 03:35:42 pm

more worrying was this..

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8457/8070058281_50155e677a.jpg)

Looks for all the world the same size as a standard builders bolster chisel. Cant recall it being there, but its been a while since I've been and it didn't look totally brand new.  Its just below the start of holds of the Hanging rib.

I think that's been there donkeys years, but my photographic memory fails me.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on October 09, 2012, 03:45:34 pm
I think that scar has been there years too.

Terrace area was more ridiculous week before last. I can only assume Stevie fucking Wonder and his cronies had been out trying it. Lines literally a foot long.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: r-man on October 09, 2012, 03:46:12 pm
It would be redder if it was recent.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on October 09, 2012, 03:58:14 pm
weird that someone has glued a finger to the wall though, no?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: r-man on October 09, 2012, 04:05:42 pm
weird that someone has glued a finger to the wall though, no?

Been there for donkey's years hasn't it? But my photographic memory fails me. It would be redder if it was recent.

What I've never worked out is whether to call it a foothold or a handhold.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on October 09, 2012, 04:29:28 pm
I think that scar has been there years too.

Terrace area was more ridiculous week before last. I can only assume Stevie fucking Wonder and his cronies had been out trying it. Lines literally a foot long.
What use is a donk line to a blind man? Maybe if they'd found a white stick or a labrador glued to the hold....
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SamT on October 10, 2012, 11:24:54 am

I think that's been there donkeys years, but my photographic memory fails me.

Yeah - it didn't look uber fresh and I'm sure I'd have heard about it on here if new, just didn't recall it standing out so obviously.   (Finger for scale, innit  ;) ).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: ghisino on October 23, 2012, 10:26:16 am
http://vimeo.com/48602839# (http://vimeo.com/48602839#)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: hobblingfool on October 23, 2012, 11:22:45 am
That was brilliant.  :clap2: Hopefully a few culprits see it and realise how pathetic they look with unnecessary excessive tick marks.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: masonwoods101 on October 23, 2012, 05:40:51 pm
 :lol:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on October 31, 2012, 10:49:23 pm
If anyone is out grindleford way tomorrow you might want to take a brush.

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/2012-10-31_15-30-10_125.jpg)

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/2012-10-31_15-30-28_819.jpg)

Unlikely to be climbers but still looks a mess.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on October 31, 2012, 10:54:50 pm
If anyone is out grindleford way tomorrow you might want to take a brush.

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/2012-10-31_15-30-10_125.jpg)

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/2012-10-31_15-30-28_819.jpg)

Unlikely to be climbers but still looks a mess.

what they wrote on the lip of the roof sums it up to me, both my feelings and their intelligence
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on October 31, 2012, 11:16:14 pm
or they could have been geordies - "WY I" pet.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andyd on November 01, 2012, 08:45:32 am
Another reason to pic up any bits of chalk that have escaped from overturned chalk bags. Maybe not climbers (hopefully not) but possibly their chalk?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Palomides on November 06, 2012, 09:37:18 am
Biking/bouldering crossover:
(http://www.basquemtb.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/3149__590pxx_orbea-occam-29-review-mountain-bike-4.jpg)

(From doug at basqueMTBs review of the Orbea Occam (http://www.basquemtb.com/orbea-occam-29er-s1-mountain-bike-review/))
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on November 06, 2012, 02:54:15 pm
Good spot! Wonder if Doug noticed, he's a climber (or used to be).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Gritlad on November 09, 2012, 05:03:32 pm
Curbar was a disgrace last night. Great white finishing hold ticked badly, the upper arete of bens wall ticked about 5 times along it, footholds ticked, all of them almost! Bad landing lip holds ticked and numerous ticks on the groove itself. All the lines were thick ones aswell. Gorilla warfare was also chalked up badly, you don't need chalk on footholds!
please brush them off!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on February 17, 2013, 04:36:44 pm
Maybe a repost but these are of Wellington Crack (http://yorkclimbers.com/forum/topics/aving-the-crack?xg_source=activity)...

(http://api.ning.com/files/ubvesjDzwvJU3qQzFQpFqF0om102YUsArNVDnA2hd4*ShwI6aEyWIB1VCqHP*XqNQgRyYRLwrEWz5ZAnrKBcDiUJ-nqTbLcJ/001.JPG?width=750)
(http://api.ning.com/files/kYZTGqO5cZhP5*g6mu09UAgKlJ8aahrtqSzk6oiVuY3hrdHk2AtULYTLR1H8FLrFhzbjMtuXgBfbRxNeAkth1o7aEdNHqNfn/002.JPG?width=750)

Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on February 17, 2013, 06:22:16 pm
They look like Paul Mitchell's from a couple of years back.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: rich d on February 17, 2013, 06:45:00 pm
Some tool had put two big tick marks on the slap on tiger at Burbage south. Toothbrushed them off, but really why?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Gritlad on February 17, 2013, 06:47:05 pm
8 Ball had so many ticks on it and so much over chalking it was horrible, the rock was still damp underneath but the chalk was plastered everywhere
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on February 17, 2013, 11:48:22 pm
I thought Michele had already done 8ball? I can understand ticks on tiger if it's at your limit. That Wellington crack tick marks stuff was just done as a wind up for here, that can't be serious
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on February 18, 2013, 07:01:03 am
They look like Paul Mitchell's from a couple of years back.

They are indeed.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: masonwoods101 on February 18, 2013, 10:46:30 am
there where arrows to pebbles on 3 pocket slab yesterday... tried to brush em....
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Gritlad on February 19, 2013, 09:06:32 pm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77637597@N07/8489369961/#in/photostream/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77637597@N07/8489369961/#in/photostream/)

On the egg boulder at Cratcliffe...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: TonyS on May 08, 2013, 04:05:02 pm
I posted this on the other channel this morning.  Could not decide where to put it so ended up here.  Not really tick marks but just as bad:-

"A month or so ago a few new boulders sprang up in the pleasly area of Mansfield.
Great some one else cleaning up the mag lime (saves me doing it all the time) but what the hell are these guys playing at.

I have visited all the areas they have put up on here and even told them about one of my own forgotten secrets ( wish I hadn't ).

Anyway these venues have been very well cleaned but then the climbers appear to be climbing with mud boots (only way I can explain it), by this I mean all (yes all) the foot holds used on each crag are just covered in sh*t. Then to make things worse this was left on one boulder for all to see, and posted as a topo on here.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=216271 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=216271)

Now in the forgotten quarry I told them about the same is happening, we have a set of problems on one wall all numbered up fro 1 - 12 even with SDS by the side of some of the numbers to denote a sit start.

W T F is this all about boys?

I have asked you respectfully through private messages to use a bouldering mat or a towel, and have also asked you to take down the images of the chalk lines and numbered problems, this after having to wash them off the rock where you left them.

Now you are upto the same tricks again why? If you know Robert Oakton or his freind Mark can you please have words, this is not acceptable and will no longer be tolerated.

I know you want your own bit of fame and glory in the climbing world ( Roberts own words) and this is certainly going the right direction to get you that. Is bouldering taking a huge step backwards?

Oh and if you want to massage your own ego please go and have a look at there problems all the problems are vastly over graded, that's if you can figure out what they have done.

Tony Simpson"


Sorry if the link does not work but please look at the picture I am sure you will be impressed.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Durbs on May 08, 2013, 04:35:30 pm
There was the mutha of all ticks on the starting flake of Gorilla Warfare over the weekend.
The fact that a) it's the biggest hold ever and b) it's a starting hold really confused me.
Why would you tick a start hold?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on May 08, 2013, 04:46:08 pm
There was the mutha of all ticks on the starting flake of Gorilla Warfare over the weekend.
The fact that a) it's the biggest hold ever and b) it's a starting hold really confused me.
Why would you tick a start hold?

at a guess it's a mark for those hard-of-thinking folk's heel or toe
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Durbs on May 08, 2013, 07:01:13 pm
I did consider this, but as it's already pasted in so much chalk it glows, and you can see the heel placement anyway from the next holds just seemed slightly over the top.
Didn't help me tick it anyway...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Baldy on May 08, 2013, 08:20:55 pm
(http://cdn.c.photoshelter.com/img-get/I0000IJ.N_bqCxik/s/710/climber-midnight-lightning-yosemite-0050.jpg)

 :worms:  :unsure:

(firmly in the 'it should stay' camp)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stubbs on May 29, 2013, 05:36:14 pm
The longer the better...

Big Dragon on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/67206670)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: masonwoods101 on May 29, 2013, 05:53:59 pm
Shame as well cos I liked the footage of the send... Was nice and bright... But was distracted by the 2 foot long ticks...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigtuboflard on May 29, 2013, 08:51:32 pm
Only recently started bouldering outdoors again after a long lay off (packed in serious climbing in 1996) and this is one of my massive irritations. "Back in the day", bouldering at places like Ilkley and Caley, you just got on with learning the problems and used a bit of spacial awareness and body positioning to work out where the fuck the next holds were. is this a reflection of either the predominance of indoor climbing, the need to "send" problems quickly (someone explain that to me too please) or just the general impatience and need for quick gratification of society today?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 29, 2013, 09:00:13 pm
American, contraction of 'ascend' I assume.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: petejh on May 29, 2013, 09:40:00 pm
I though it came from being related to 'dispatch', as in - 'I quickly dispatched with the V3 in the corner'.

Nothing like as the bad as the British - 'I smashed-in some good product in the cave of justice'.  :sick:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: masonwoods101 on May 29, 2013, 11:08:12 pm
Think people are used to brightly coloured holds indoors so struggle to see holds outside that are the same colour....
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 29, 2013, 11:15:29 pm
Blimey. I've "smashed in plenty of good product" in my time but none of it had anything to do with climbing. Or is this about Jerry? ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cheque on May 30, 2013, 10:41:44 am
...

Anyway these venues have been very well cleaned but then the climbers appear to be climbing with mud boots (only way I can explain it), by this I mean all (yes all) the foot holds used on each crag are just covered in sh*t. Then to make things worse this was left on one boulder for all to see, and posted as a topo on here....

I've seen the numbers at Pleasley before and the muddy footholds too- some bizarre stuff goes on there!

Is any of the newly developed stuff any good? Looking at UKC it's virtually all been given two stars and above, which seems unlikely, and judging by your comments the grades seem to be a little out!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dr_botnik on June 19, 2013, 10:42:13 pm
Some blind cunts have drawn a tick mark to the jug on tiger and a massive arrow to the crimp on huggy, about 8 inch long :spank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Duma on June 19, 2013, 11:15:28 pm
It's a fb pic so hope it shows up:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/q75/s720x720/1005554_332130716918700_182154482_n.jpg)
On the darkside boulder at Huntshams the weekend before last. The arrows are about 8 inches long. None of these holds are blind. Wankers.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: finbarrr on April 02, 2014, 09:27:36 pm
these guys.. from 12:15
https://vimeo.com/90527024
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigtuboflard on April 03, 2014, 08:15:35 pm
these guys.. from 12:15
https://vimeo.com/90527024
they might be climbing harder than i can but what a tw@t, can't begin to understand it, they must be borderline blind.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on April 19, 2014, 08:57:55 am
A pointless exercise too, he didn't even use the foothold!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Clart on April 19, 2014, 03:13:09 pm
Yeh, that's a lot of chalk but who's to say thay didn't brush it off afterwards? It would certainly be shameful if they left it there. 
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: ferret on April 19, 2014, 09:23:33 pm
these guys.. from 12:15
https://vimeo.com/90527024
they might be climbing harder than i can but what a tw@t, can't begin to understand it, they must be borderline blind.

I love the fact that guy doesn't even use the "X marks the spot foothold"
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Offwidth on April 20, 2014, 10:20:27 am
Font a love story eh? More like someone should be phoning Social Services.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SEDur on May 01, 2014, 04:19:59 pm
(http://1drv.ms/1mhMWE9)

Churnet was a total disgrace yesterday when I went down.
Whoever TB is, I hate you.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on May 01, 2014, 06:17:27 pm
Tom what have you been doing? You've been told before   :spank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 06, 2014, 04:19:29 pm
I love this thread, about as much as I hate tick marks.

They remind me of the party game, where you try to pin the tail to the donkey, ass, ..hold..? or whatever.
Personally, I think they generally have little to do with pointing out holds, and quite a lot to do with pointing to the climber, donkey, ass, whatever, in a Me, me, me, yes I was here kind of way.

Not super big, but I think this one is a peach. Spotted on the way back from Stanage, the other night (You don't say!).

Cover your eyes now, if you don't want to blow your onsight, as this one points directly to the hidden hold.

(https://photos-4.dropbox.com/t/0/AAB5nRnu0uMky_SW1-Yahv4C1Hu5ofsznlZUl1cHgfkW7w/12/145962941/jpeg/75x75/1/_/1/2/2014-05-04%2020.35.29-1.jpg/SF5aRQmiTysPzDClVVKV1RnxOBGoc4t_d2eC9gyg-VQ?size=1024x768)

(https://photos-4.dropbox.com/t/0/AAD4178gTpMhyiuNQaNlA-rXFMtEstNL2ohNi1cj1p1Ztw/12/145962941/jpeg/75x75/1/_/1/2/2014-05-04%2020.35.29-2.jpg/3HNir8nNHs9OBBh9wbMOQaRzL9lP-GfJLbG3Kycas_E?size=1024x768)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on May 06, 2014, 04:30:23 pm
Your Dropbox acccount is protected so the pictures won't embed.

Try sticking them on something like Imgur (http://imgur.com) for easy and cheap hosting (also provides BBCode links to copy and paste into here).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 06, 2014, 08:47:21 pm
Oh bllocks! No tick marks then, but still a donkey.

I checked on the preview, and they display fine, and on my phone. I did wonder, as Dropbllocks wasn't on the list on wiki. Let me know if anyone else can see them.

Just for the record, the tick mark is for the tiny, subtle, slopey crimp at the top of Buckstone Dyno. Guess you could miss it.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on May 06, 2014, 10:32:08 pm
It probably showed up in Preview because you were logged into Dropbox in another tab/on your phone and/or the image was cached.

Why would anyone need a tickmark for the Buckstone Dyno? :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 07, 2014, 02:45:40 pm
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2939/14106192346_46975b18c1_b.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 07, 2014, 02:50:34 pm
Can anyone see the starting holds, I'm struggling a bit?

(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2919/14129373645_e40f5f034d_z.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigtuboflard on May 07, 2014, 06:46:40 pm
Yep can see them now Dave. A small tick in the scheme of things. But totally unnecessary none the less. I hope the culprits still missed it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigtuboflard on May 07, 2014, 06:47:49 pm
And you're right. For good measure I'm surprised the starting holds aren't circled.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: abarro81 on May 07, 2014, 06:51:01 pm
Well I for one love tick marks.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 07, 2014, 08:31:01 pm
Well, you probably love them enough to take them with you when you leave :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on May 07, 2014, 11:07:02 pm
Very good  :clap2:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: kelvin on May 08, 2014, 03:10:55 pm
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t31.0-8/p180x540/10344386_10152426061391350_682654466720839099_o.jpg)

The snakes have had enough too.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on May 09, 2014, 08:56:09 am
Is that Bishop? I shat it when I climbed off a boulder to the familiar rattlesnake sound at Ibex. I was on my tod and it's miles from anywhere.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: scooba2cv on July 02, 2014, 10:46:36 pm
(http://1drv.ms/1mhMWE9)

Churnet was a total disgrace yesterday when I went down.
Whoever TB is, I hate you.

It is much worse now, some utter utter C*nt has decided to scratch M H about 8 times all over Wrights.
What a complete and utter shit.
(http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz127/scooba2cv/20140702_183818_zps2734d6e4.jpg) (http://s820.photobucket.com/user/scooba2cv/media/20140702_183818_zps2734d6e4.jpg.html)

(http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz127/scooba2cv/20140702_183844_zps0a45813f.jpg) (http://s820.photobucket.com/user/scooba2cv/media/20140702_183844_zps0a45813f.jpg.html)
(http://i820.photobucket.com/albums/zz127/scooba2cv/20140702_183856_zps18c4f3f1.jpg) (http://s820.photobucket.com/user/scooba2cv/media/20140702_183856_zps18c4f3f1.jpg.html)


Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on July 02, 2014, 11:22:53 pm
what a complete Mike Hunt
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: masonwoods101 on July 03, 2014, 05:55:52 am
Was at roadside cave (toms roof) on Sunday and some one had underlined all the foot holds on the right wall.... No idea why they where all huge.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: finbarrr on July 05, 2014, 06:58:10 pm
four fingers> four lines?
https://vimeo.com/99975358 (https://vimeo.com/99975358)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: ardeer on July 07, 2014, 12:45:34 am
what was the towel thing about anyone?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on July 07, 2014, 06:56:15 am
It covered the worst of the tick-marks.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on July 07, 2014, 08:28:57 am
It had probably just finished raining, some people like climbing on damp rock
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: finbarrr on July 07, 2014, 09:47:49 am
It had probably just finished raining, some people like climbing on damp rock

maybe it was a wet towel, because he really likes climbing on damp rock  ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: haydn jones on December 03, 2014, 03:04:51 am
So was at deliverance when I was met with this monstrosity. It was clear someone had been trying to dry out all the holds. All they had succeeded in doing was making the chalk hold the damp in, the only wet bits of rock were where the chalk was caked on.

(http://i.imgur.com/HZ7NPUi.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/U0vt9WG.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: willackers on December 03, 2014, 07:43:00 am
These people need shooting  :furious:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fadanoid on December 03, 2014, 08:42:43 am
What a heel.
No need for that.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 03, 2014, 09:13:06 am
These people need shooting  :furious:

maybe educating?

(then shooting if they do it again)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on December 03, 2014, 11:06:24 am
I note the absence of chalk on the top!

But as a pednat I would say this is criminal overuse of chalk rather than a donkey line.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on December 03, 2014, 01:07:53 pm
Don't show that to over-caffeinated sugary drink company, they might mistake it for the white cliffs of Dover and hack the fuck out of it
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: kelvin on December 03, 2014, 01:32:07 pm
*edit to delete
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 04, 2014, 02:52:11 pm
Photo of London Wall, back in the summer. Sorry if the large image doesn't convey the mess.

There were about 13 clear tick marks between top and bottom, obviously indicating which peg scars to use. I know it's a route and not a boulder problem, but it highlights the trend in quite a depressing way. As does the photo from Broomgrove wall!

Better go to Specsavers.

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7512/15759293649_7c9f225054_h.jpg)

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8602/15323088734_18a469eff6_b.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: willackers on December 04, 2014, 03:19:00 pm
These people need shooting  :furious:

maybe educating?

(then shooting if they do it again)

Too late for that. Go get the gun.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on December 04, 2014, 05:46:50 pm

Photo of London Wall, back in the summer. Sorry if the large image doesn't convey the mess.

There were about 13 clear tick marks between top and bottom, obviously indicating which peg scars to use. I know it's a route and not a boulder problem, but it highlights the trend in quite a depressing way. As does the photo from Broomgrove wall!

Better go to Specsavers.

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7512/15759293649_7c9f225054_h.jpg)

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8602/15323088734_18a469eff6_b.jpg)

Yeah the broomgrove ones this summer were a bit ridiculous. Especially as plenty of them were in the wrong place, so learning which ones to org or was a hard as a learning the footholds would have been without them.

Also the added benefit that as a perma-dry wall they won't wash off by their own accord.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 05, 2014, 12:25:18 am
Ha ha

So you go there (Broomgrove) too! I thought maybe it was only me, and the (other) person needing glasses.

We had a deal - s/he'd kindly put the tick marks on, and I'd kindly scrub the fucking things off again.

The other option was possibly to add a few more - just to confuse matters!

It's, max, a forty move traverse; I scrubbed 60 marks off, the other night!

I think they're doing a 2-for-one on new pairs at the moment. Do me a favour while you're in there (other person struggling to see), and pick up a new pair for me too. I'll send you my prescription.

Ta.

I want to swear now.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on December 05, 2014, 08:33:54 am

Ha ha

So you go there (Broomgrove) too! I thought maybe it was only me, and the (other) person needing glasses.

We had a deal - s/he'd kindly put the tick marks on, and I'd kindly scrub the fucking things off again.

The other option was possibly to add a few more - just to confuse matters!

It's, max, a forty move traverse; I scrubbed 60 marks off, the other night!

I think they're doing a 2-for-one on new pairs at the moment. Do me a favour while you're in there (other person struggling to see), and pick up a new pair for me too. I'll send you my prescription.

Ta.

I want to swear now.

That's one of lagers hustling moves... Mark up the wrong holds to confuse the opposition. If it's not him then there's a new kid on the bloc(s)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: JamieG on December 05, 2014, 11:27:12 am
I feel that a lot of the professional climbers set a very bad precedent in this.

Not to pick on individuals. But there are some whopping tick marks in this recent video of Nalle. Around the 1.30 mark you seem him add a massive tick to the sloper. Anyway I like Nalle, and certainly am not trying to single him out, but I think all the top climbers should take more responsibility about how what they do on videos impacts the rest of the climbing scene. I'm sure this has been said before but that is my 2p. You rarely see them brushing the tick marks off afterwards.

http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/nalle-hukkataival-nails-his-last-chance-ascent-of-emotional-landscapes-v158c-%7C-epictv-choice-cuts/600557 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/nalle-hukkataival-nails-his-last-chance-ascent-of-emotional-landscapes-v158c-%7C-epictv-choice-cuts/600557)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: sherlock on December 05, 2014, 11:35:14 am
I never understand why folk just can't use (and remove afterwards!) fingertape :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: kelvin on December 05, 2014, 11:44:38 am
I never understand why folk just can't use (and remove afterwards!) fingertape :shrug:

This is what I've been encouraging my mates to do.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 05, 2014, 11:56:21 am
laser projectors with sponsors logos

like Batman's thing, but used to point at holds
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on December 05, 2014, 12:52:50 pm

I feel that a lot of the professional climbers set a very bad precedent in this.

Not to pick on individuals. But there are some whopping tick marks in this recent video of Nalle. Around the 1.30 mark you seem him add a massive tick to the sloper. Anyway I like Nalle, and certainly am not trying to single him out, but I think all the top climbers should take more responsibility about how what they do on videos impacts the rest of the climbing scene. I'm sure this has been said before but that is my 2p. You rarely see them brushing the tick marks off afterwards.

http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/nalle-hukkataival-nails-his-last-chance-ascent-of-emotional-landscapes-v158c-%7C-epictv-choice-cuts/600557 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/nalle-hukkataival-nails-his-last-chance-ascent-of-emotional-landscapes-v158c-%7C-epictv-choice-cuts/600557)

I'm with you on this. The climbing media in general really needs to lift its game on this. It wouldn't be such a bad thing if all sponsors, news sites and mags refused to publish photos or vids with tick marks visible. OK you can always argue that of course so-and-so brushed them off afterwards, but plenty of folk don't. And the only guaranteed way not to forget to brush them off is to not use them in the first place.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: sherlock on December 05, 2014, 12:57:15 pm
laser projectors with sponsors logos

like Batman's thing, but used to point at holds
Yup,got one of those too(without the Batman logo).sends my mates dog berserk! ;D
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on December 05, 2014, 01:14:56 pm
I can remember repeatedly failing to hold a sloper that had a big donkey line below it, it turned out to be bird shit and the real hold as 20cm away.

It could be quite fun marking non holds with donkey lines from a ladder, now if we only knew someone who took a ladder to the crag.  :whistle:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 05, 2014, 01:32:55 pm
thin laser lines would be easier to photoshop out of photos than dirty chalk marks - I assume that the consitent colour of a laser dot/line would make it easier for a computer to identify what needed shopping out
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on December 05, 2014, 01:55:00 pm
I think the media maybe could film rock stars brushing the ticks off after they've topped the boulder and stared into the distance for a moment.
I thought ondra speaking before the comp on a few issues last wk was a good idea and would like to see/hear more of this.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 05, 2014, 02:39:52 pm
yeah, Ondra should give a talk about responsible shitting whilst at the crag
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: iwasmexican on December 15, 2014, 04:18:38 pm
not the worst, but pretty excessive given how controlled he looks on the first problem...

Prince of Thieves V11 and Apple Bottom Jeans V10 - Joe's Valley, Utah on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/114520420)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on December 15, 2014, 04:56:47 pm
To be fair though the tick marks might be nothing to do with the guy in the video.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cha1n on December 15, 2014, 08:18:10 pm
Excessive but who cares so long as he rubs them off after.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on December 15, 2014, 08:40:57 pm
The proposition is that tick marks are a problem per se as very few people rub them off, hence the number of images on this thread.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on December 15, 2014, 09:39:55 pm

Excessive but who cares so long as he rubs them off after.

If every video or photo representation of tickmarks was accompanied with a photo or video showing someone dutifully cleaning them off afterwards, then maybe "who cares" would be justified. As it is, nobody does, so photos and videos showing tickmarks by nature set a bad example and serve to further popularise them.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on December 15, 2014, 11:33:47 pm
If the sandstone there is like any of the sandstones I've climbed on then they simply can't be removed with a brush even using water.  Guess it'd be nice to see an example set by seeing the attempt made.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 16, 2014, 09:15:00 am
What about using a grey chalk that was difficult to see?

That way it wouldn't really matter if people didn't remove them afterwards...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jwi on December 17, 2014, 07:14:42 pm
If the sandstone there is like any of the sandstones I've climbed on then they simply can't be removed with a brush even using water.  Guess it'd be nice to see an example set by seeing the attempt made.

Even on granite it is a bitch to remove tickmarks with a brush and water.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on December 18, 2014, 09:57:12 am
Hmm with all this talk of brushing I'd assumed there were some rock types where this actually worked.




Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GCW on December 18, 2014, 10:06:21 am
If the sandstone there is like any of the sandstones I've climbed on then they simply can't be removed with a brush even using water.  Guess it'd be nice to see an example set by seeing the attempt made.


Could this be the new "Driving to crag".
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on December 19, 2014, 12:27:50 pm
I don't know what else people might want yer publicity hungry climber to do to keep his video off this thread.

A standard disclaimer ? " No tickmarks were added in the filming of this video. Any visible marks are the work of knob or knobs unknown and remain despite Mr I.Amagiantwad and team's best efforts at removal"
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Eddies on February 09, 2015, 06:17:37 pm
Chalk ball minister at burb North!!
http://youtu.be/NWgB1LK0Eh4
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 09, 2015, 07:23:36 pm
So many crimes in that video!

Is that a tag on his ankle btw?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Dexter on February 10, 2015, 11:14:30 am
wow that's a lot of chalk ballage.
Is there a significance to chalking footholds on grit or is it as stupid as it looks? I know sometimes on really polished lime it can help to have a bit of chalk on there but I thought it didnt help on the grit?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Offwidth on February 10, 2015, 11:22:52 am
wow that's a lot of chalk ballage.
Is there a significance to chalking footholds on grit or is it as stupid as it looks? I know sometimes on really polished lime it can help to have a bit of chalk on there but I thought it didnt help on the grit?

Its a long film can someone give the time(s) of the crime.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cheque on February 10, 2015, 11:44:32 am
wow that's a lot of chalk ballage.
Is there a significance to chalking footholds on grit or is it as stupid as it looks? I know sometimes on really polished lime it can help to have a bit of chalk on there but I thought it didnt help on the grit?

Its a long film can someone give the time(s) of the crime.

10:15 and 10:50. There might be instances more but I really don't have the inclination to search for them.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on February 10, 2015, 12:17:40 pm
Chalkbag attached with biner to loop of trousers on one side...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 10, 2015, 12:23:28 pm
Unnecessary dynamic moves on 2A ground.....
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cheque on February 10, 2015, 12:25:35 pm
Chalkbag attached with biner to loop of trousers on one side...

Reminds me of the larger lady I once saw at a climbing wall with one on each side due to reach issues.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mr chaz on February 10, 2015, 12:49:27 pm
wow, 10-11 mins  :o

 :spank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on February 10, 2015, 12:58:45 pm
? I know sometimes on really polished lime it can help to have a bit of chalk on there

I'd be very interested to know if this is a commonly held opinion and what mechanism people think might be involved?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i_a_coops on February 10, 2015, 01:13:28 pm
Very smooth limestone is prone to condensation, so can feel slippy if the rock is dry but the air is at all humid. Chalking and brushing will mop up some of the condensation leaving the foothold temporarily drier and feeling stickier?

Only ever done this on polished, water-worn limestone right next to a river (Dinas Rock) where it definitely made a difference but I'd imagine it might apply in other condensation-prone limestone venues like Raven Tor or Parisella's.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on February 10, 2015, 01:14:58 pm
Given chalk is used as a lubricant in industry, the only thing I can see chalking a limestone foothold might do is to polish it further...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: galpinos on February 10, 2015, 01:23:30 pm
Given chalk is used as a lubricant in industry, the only thing I can see chalking a limestone foothold might do is to polish it further...

Is that not magnesium silicate as opposed to magnesium carbonate which we use?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on February 10, 2015, 01:25:01 pm
Doesn't preclude the mechanism in coops post from working work, assuming that it's possible to  brush off all the chalk.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on February 10, 2015, 01:25:40 pm
Ah, no idea. I'm pretty sure I read carbonates in general were used but can't remember where...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 10, 2015, 05:43:34 pm
Who the fuck was still watching that video after ten minutes? Christ.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sloper on February 10, 2015, 05:45:43 pm
And people accuse me of trolling, posting that video shirely has to be a troll?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on February 10, 2015, 06:47:47 pm

Chalk ball minister at burb North!!
http://youtu.be/NWgB1LK0Eh4

Oh my word.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Falling Down on February 10, 2015, 08:49:01 pm
No need to ever chalk footholds... Just dry 'em off with a rag.  As for the video... Can I have twelve minutes of my life back please?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on February 10, 2015, 09:36:48 pm
Who the fuck was still watching that video after ten minutes? Christ.

 :lol: well quite. Although it was a particular highlight coating the arete in chalk and then not using that bit on the first attempt.

I know a strong F7c climber who insists on tickmarking footholds with the tick right ON the foothold. Didn't manage to persuade them otherwise.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 10, 2015, 11:23:42 pm
I'm not sure why people are complaining about having to watch this film. It's the best thing ever.

Only by the fifth viewing can you truly contemplate the question, "Why the fuck was this made?".
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on February 11, 2015, 01:56:21 pm
Can I have twelve minutes of my life back please?

Well done for persevering. I gave up in the first minute.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Offwidth on February 11, 2015, 02:39:13 pm
I lasted a few minutes before I gave up and asked. To be fair the lad is obviously inexperienced (but keen) and he is far from the worst user of chalk I've seen in the Burb valley (any donkey marks at all on show?.... and don't start me on the muppets I've had to ask to stop wirebrushing there on problems that probably last saw lichen in the 80's): all too often it's experienced folks who should know about this stuff. Education is the key and the BMC, the mags, and all the guidebooks could still do better.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on February 11, 2015, 03:35:55 pm
No need to ever chalk footholds... Just dry 'em off with a rag.  As for the video... Can I have twelve minutes of my life back please?

 :agree:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andyd on February 11, 2015, 07:23:01 pm
Get a better broadband package then you can scroll through :smartass:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on February 12, 2015, 07:39:56 am
Look at me I've got a big package!

:smartass:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andyd on February 12, 2015, 06:56:46 pm
Look at me I've got a big package!

:smartass:

I think it's a bit unfair to take my quote from the 'show us ya wanger' thread and use it against me here
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on February 26, 2015, 11:25:34 am
Heavy and highly localised drifting on the left-hand boulder.

(https://i.imgur.com/ZOoGrQy.jpg)

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on April 05, 2015, 09:50:19 am
Absolutely shameful display of punter chalking on nicotine stain and the arete to its left last night, thick chalk, daubed all over footholds, massive amounts on ledges low down, loose chalk all over the floor, and yet not a speck of chalk above 8 foot off the deck.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: standard on April 16, 2015, 09:19:11 pm
http://vimeo.com/125014077
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 16, 2015, 11:12:43 pm
1 min "cattivo " ie naughty boy. Got that right, that's a mess.

I cannot understand why people can't see what's in front of their face - including the beauty of the place they're in :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: iwasmexican on April 17, 2015, 11:50:47 am
http://vimeo.com/125014077

I love it when people put tick marks that are 90% useless, from below going to those holds you can't even see the whole line...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigtuboflard on April 17, 2015, 12:29:28 pm
I don't know why I let this wind me up so much but it does. Tick marks of that size are completely unacceptable, especially when on more than one occasion he manages to miss the hold and has to re-position his hand slightly. Learn the problem, learn where the holds are and just get on with it.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tim palmer on April 17, 2015, 12:55:34 pm
I don't know why I let this wind me up so much but it does. Tick marks of that size are completely unacceptable, especially when on more than one occasion he manages to miss the hold and has to re-position his hand slightly. Learn the problem, learn where the holds are and just get on with it.

I don't think you should, why does it matter when:
1) he may well clean them off when he is finished
2) it looks like the ticks will get washed off in the rain

I am sure the guy who has just climbed 8B (?+) will appreciate the last bit of advice though.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tommytwotone on April 17, 2015, 01:06:40 pm
Not the most beautiful place in the world I'd admit, but Woodhouse Scar was in a terrible state on Tuesday night, stuff coated in chalk that wasn't there on the previous Friday for sure. Ludicrous tickmarks on every hold of the Ian's Traverse cave lip, and it looked like someone had emptied an entire bag of chalk all over the 7c and 7b right of Radium Arete.


I cleaned off what I could but it was seriously OTT...the stuff on the Radium Arete boulder would be marginal in freezing connies, why are people even bothering in this weather, let alone spaffing chalk all over the thing?!

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 17, 2015, 01:09:31 pm
I think 13th April is the opening day of the spaffing season
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on April 17, 2015, 01:36:34 pm
I think the realist has been given 8a(+) by the last few ascentionists Tim, but your point is still valid  ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on April 17, 2015, 02:51:41 pm

   why does it matter when:
1) he may well clean them off when he is finished
2) it looks like the ticks will get washed off in the rain


1) No he won't because it can't be done without a jet wash.
2) No they won't, they don't wash off & even if they did, given your attitude, the moment it stops raining some other knob will just put them back.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tim palmer on April 17, 2015, 03:03:49 pm

   why does it matter when:
1) he may well clean them off when he is finished
2) it looks like the ticks will get washed off in the rain


1) No he won't because it can't be done without a jet wash.
2) No they won't, they don't wash off & even if they did, given your attitude, the moment it stops raining some other knob will just put them back.

Wow that was very vitriolic.  Tick marks do brush off (yes I have brushed old tick marks off rock) and they do wash off in the rain (think about it, chalk is basic and rain is weakly acidic).

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bonjoy on April 17, 2015, 03:29:15 pm
 :agree:
Water on a toothbrush will remove tick marks completely.
It is perhaps a good idea if folk show marks being brushed off on their vids or put a text caption on to that effect.
There's two things here. Using tick marks and leaving tick marks when you finish. The latter is an issue, the former is a non-issue. You can laugh/ knock style points off folk for using them certainly, like you would for someone wearing orange trousers for instance, but there’s really no need to be starting pogroms about it.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigtuboflard on April 17, 2015, 03:43:09 pm
Admittedly, I've never climbed 8b, or 8a for that matter, and never will. My primary displeasure derives from the need to reduce what are (sometimes in some cases aesthetically beautiful) lines to something nearer to the local bouldering wall.

I am probably living in a bygone era in that respect, and I do realise that its easy enough to brush them off at the end of a session (though how many people genuinely do based on how often I still encounter them at a deserted crag), but its something that visually I don't care much for. One could probably say the same about chalk full stop but don't think that debate is necessary
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sasquatch on April 17, 2015, 04:05:56 pm
I am probably living in a bygone era in that respect, and I do realise that its easy enough to brush them off at the end of a session (though how many people genuinely do based on how often I still encounter them at a deserted crag), but its something that visually I don't care much for. One could probably say the same about chalk full stop but don't think that debate is necessary
Just curious - Are you against all ticking on principal? or mainly the foot long wankfests for those too cool to admit they are nearly blind and can't actually see the holds?  (I can't think of any other reason for ticks that long.)

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: i.munro on April 17, 2015, 04:54:08 pm
[ Tick marks do brush off (yes I have brushed old tick marks off rock) and they do wash off in the rain (think about it, chalk is basic and rain is weakly acidic).

In which case I need serious help as I'm either hallucinating chalk & tick marks or hallucinating brushing ( a lot of brushing ) & heavy rain  during the last ten days in Bleau.

More seriously, it may well be true that chalk either can be brushed or will wash off on some rock types (although I doubt that as indoor walls struggle to shift it with a jet wash) but it categorically isn't true on sandstone! Simply try it or go out and look after rain.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tim palmer on April 17, 2015, 05:19:56 pm
I think you must be hallucinating I am afraid.
 
Just think of all those whopping tick marks you see people drawing on karma, but funnily enough when you go there the rock is utterly pristine. 

Here two pictures of a problem/boulder (opium/narcotic) which sees no direct rain but miraculously the ticks are in different places (in the smaller pic there is a tick to the small pocket, in the larger there is a tick to the crimp).
(http://enzo-oddo.fr/news/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/DSC_4467.jpg)

(http://bleau.info/images/vincent.pochon/narcotic001.jpg)

Have Oddo or Ponchon been dragging a jet cleaner into the crag?

or has someone done a bit of gentle brushing?  :-\
Title: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigtuboflard on April 17, 2015, 06:38:06 pm
I am probably living in a bygone era in that respect, and I do realise that its easy enough to brush them off at the end of a session (though how many people genuinely do based on how often I still encounter them at a deserted crag), but its something that visually I don't care much for. One could probably say the same about chalk full stop but don't think that debate is necessary
Just curious - Are you against all ticking on principal? or mainly the foot long wankfests for those too cool to admit they are nearly blind and can't actually see the holds?  (I can't think of any other reason for ticks that long.)


Just the foot long wank fests really. If a hold is obscured then a small mark I'll readily admit is helpful in sighting it and learning where hit. But these can be done discretely and in such a way that they're easier to brush off. It feels to me in some instances at least that it's borne out of either laziness or perhaps just seeing it done elsewhere and assuming it's the norm. I guess methods change and styles evolve and I'm stuck in the past.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sasquatch on April 17, 2015, 08:46:21 pm
Just the foot long wank fests really. If a hold is obscured then a small mark I'll readily admit is helpful in sighting it and learning where hit. But these can be done discretely and in such a way that they're easier to brush off. It feels to me in some instances at least that it's borne out of either laziness or perhaps just seeing it done elsewhere and assuming it's the norm. I guess methods change and styles evolve and I'm stuck in the past.

I'd agree with that.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on April 18, 2015, 10:56:08 am
Ok dickheads, back to tickmarks.

The old "what's the big deal, he will have brushed them off afterwards" argument doesn't wash - rather like tickmarks in fact. You've only got to walk around most crags to see that a significant proportion of tickmarks do not get brushed off afterwards, this thread is evidence of that.

"Tickmarks get washed off in the rain" - yes and no. In heavy rain rock receiving an actual flow of water will get tickmarks washed off. Tickmarks that don't receive direct rainfall or runoff flow will not wash off, even if the rock gets wet or damp. Tickmarks under roof rarely get washed off naturally. Tickmarks on steep peak limestone crags for example often last an entire season or longer.

To actually completely brush off a tickmark on rock like grit requires a brush and some spit/water. The way people are tickmarking these day using blocks of chalk tends to leave a very thick and ingrained tick, so just brushing it dry with a brush tends to remove the unnecessary bulk of surface chalk (depositing it on the floor), but still leaves a visible tickmark.

A much better way to indicate a blind hold is with just a subtle surface finger dab of chalk, one that the next climber will probably not even notice, and will be easy to brush off.

Aside from just being lazy bad form and disrespectful to other crag users, the fact is most/plenty of tickmarks are not brushed off afterwards. Probably because if you're the type of person with such little consideration for the crag and other users  that you would use a donkey line in the first place probably means it wouldn't even occur to you to brush them off afterwards. The type of considerate user who laboriously brushes them off will probably be a minimal user of tickmarks anyway. Every time a tickmark is used there is a finite chance that the user will forget to brush it off. The only way to guarantee you won't forget to brush em off is to not use them in the first place - this should be the gold standard, and is totally acheiveable.

The other problem is that the appearance of tickmarks in high profile videos, guidebook photos, mag articles only serves to proliferate the practice, especially if we all just shrug and say "well they will have brushed them off afterwards" and nobody takes a stand to redress the balance. Anyone coming into the sport these days would read a web article, see tickmarks on every hold, and assume that it is normal procedure to rock up at the crag and indicate every single hold on your problem with a tickmark.

And for those saying it hypocritical to pour scorn on tickmarks when we all use chalk and it's no different, that's just a bollocks cop out clause. Even stevie wonder can see there's a massive difference between considerate moderate chalk use and indiscriminate donkeylining.

Rant over. Get brushing motherfuckers.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: masonwoods101 on April 18, 2015, 11:27:18 am
I don't understand how people can't remember where to reach to after working a boulder problem or looking from the floor. I kept missing a hold yesterday till I stood back and thought "it's 2 inch right of that obvious natural mark on the rock...." Simple. Visualise the problem, be at one with the problem....
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigtuboflard on April 18, 2015, 03:51:15 pm
A much better way to indicate a blind hold is with just a subtle surface finger dab of chalk, one that the next climber will probably not even notice, and will be easy to brush off.

The other problem is that the appearance of tickmarks in high profile videos, guidebook photos, mag articles only serves to proliferate the practice, especially if we all just shrug and say "well they will have brushed them off afterwards" and nobody takes a stand to redress the balance. Anyone coming into the sport these days would read a web article, see tickmarks on every hold, and assume that it is normal procedure to rock up at the crag and indicate every single hold on your problem with a tickmark.
Dave, well put and a much more well structured version of what I was trying to say. I often put a small finger tip dab between me and the hold I might be aiming for, or better pick out a feature like a pebble or crease between as a sighter. But is easy to brush or dab with a beer towel to remove.

And the other part regarding it becoming common practice in the media does indeed tend to promote that its more than acceptable to do, something which shouldn't just be blindly accepted. I fully recognise that not everyone gets in to climbing purely from the enjoyment of being outdoors but thats a key factor for me and anything I can personally do to keep it that way (like bagging out litter and finger tape for example) is a minimum.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on April 18, 2015, 03:53:58 pm
Yup totally with the finger dab style.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 18, 2015, 05:24:14 pm
I often put a small finger tip dab between me and the hold I might be aiming for..

Funny that, being weak, I often do the same  :lol:

Plus everything else you said  :yes:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 18, 2015, 11:00:43 pm
lasers is the best option

no, not those pink and black things from Boreal

laser pens and such like

even just as a thought experiment

if you feel too much of a tit wedging a laser pen in a bit of bluetack or on a tripod to help you with finding a hold, then you sure as hell don't need to draw on the rock with chalk for the same reason
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andyd on April 19, 2015, 10:49:28 am
Every hand held laser I've ever used had to be pressed down to work. They'd work well with spotters I imagine. I think a better  option for those who use big 'orrible tick marks could be a trip to an optician?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: measles23 on April 19, 2015, 07:26:43 pm
Rock type makes a big difference too - a tick on lime is piss to brush off, but down t'churnet it's close to impossible to completely remove firmly drawn ticks, many of which also never get direct rainfall.
I think this thread makes a positive contribution to the scene - when it first started it made me reappraise what I do and I would never now go back to ticking rock, which I think is a good thing - I still like (and use) the old idea of a bit of tape instead, on account of being instantly and completely reversible..
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fultonius on April 22, 2015, 03:17:27 pm
Haha, I posted this comment on Marco Espamer's vimeo video:https://vimeo.com/125014077#comment_13157866 (https://vimeo.com/125014077#comment_13157866)

Quote
Well done, you have been selected as this weeks donkey-line / tick mark hall of shame featured climber. If you can climb this hard, you can do it without the stupid lines. Get a grip.

Just got a reply today:

Quote
you are absolutely right .i was wrong.probably it were not necessary so much. i will be more careful the next times. thank you to letting me think about it.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on April 22, 2015, 03:19:29 pm
Good work that man!

Some muppet had plastered every foothold at Caley in chalk over the past few weeks. It actually made the footholds much harder to see, so I couldn't get up a lot of the problems which had fallen victim (that's my excuse anyway).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tim palmer on April 23, 2015, 09:54:57 am

Quote
Well done, you have been selected as this weeks donkey-line / tick mark hall of shame featured climber. If you can climb this hard, you can do it without the stupid lines. Get a grip.

Seeing as you have decided to speak for everyone, is that not a little rude?

Rock type makes a big difference too - a tick on lime is piss to brush off, but down t'churnet it's close to impossible to completely remove firmly drawn ticks, many of which also never get direct rainfall.

To be honest I think it is over chalking in general which is the problem at Churnet, wrights rock is a terrible mess.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andyd on April 23, 2015, 03:49:17 pm
Yep. I think you've just echoed what another guy said two days before you;  :thumbsdown:just with a little less class.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fultonius on April 23, 2015, 06:43:15 pm
I was in a bit of a sour mood and also somehow had missed the first post. Could have worded it better.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: measles23 on April 27, 2015, 06:42:54 am
down t'churnet it's close to impossible to completely remove firmly drawn ticks, many of which also never get direct rainfall.

As if to make my point, this 2ft beaut on the nose problem at Gentleman's, visible from the main path - just no need..

(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/bellerophon23/ukb/480b0bd5-9381-4962-9437-280027bd347e_zpsjterdmp5.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: benno on May 01, 2015, 03:39:00 pm
I'm not sure that this is all about... If you can't remember where the footholds are for two moves, maybe Font slabs aren't your thing? As far the ones one the top of the thing... NO SHIT.

(http://bleau.info/images/jean.pierre.roudneff/LaDallesonPpre1.JPG)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2015, 03:45:46 pm
Those top ones are pretty terrible. Not sure what is hold and what is non-hold.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mr chaz on May 01, 2015, 04:30:09 pm
That is pretty idiotic... Maybe its to make it harder? So many tickmarks, not enough holds
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on May 22, 2015, 03:26:31 pm
https://twitter.com/Planetmountain/status/601743300526215168
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on May 22, 2015, 03:44:20 pm
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CFnSV8IWgAIXljh.jpg:large)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 17, 2015, 01:11:10 am
Crag X was such a mess today.

Sorry of you've fessed up to these elsewhere, ahem, but I think they're not the same ones. ...What?  ;)

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5443/18685055518_1b9b794e3c_c.jpg)

(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3939/18872779925_d57e454ff0_z.jpg)

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5519/18846536196_a530421975_c.jpg)

This is just a selection. footless S' Egg problems, Hulk, S'man, JR - footholds and handholds. Clearly not all by the same person. 
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on June 17, 2015, 08:47:04 am
Middle ones mine.. *blushes*
Point taken :)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Duma on June 17, 2015, 09:00:15 am
Without knowing the crag, I hesitate to say, but these don't look too bad. However why not brush them off tt? Esp somewhere like x
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on June 17, 2015, 09:08:04 am
Brushing stuff off at places like X that don't receive any direct rainfall is especially important.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: joel182 on September 28, 2015, 11:07:47 am
Bit of a mess left behind on Zarzaparrilla, the black lines seemed particularly creative

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/28/b8112549e243181c1bb219e9341b5c0e.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/28/8965d9bd03c21a0a0fdb891f44d078d3.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/28/b90283c173eee087dcfa02e8a216706f.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on September 28, 2015, 11:43:15 am
Do people still climb at Embaracin?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: joel182 on September 28, 2015, 12:30:38 pm
Do people still climb at Embaracin?
Apparently just people with pof rags and sticks of chalk
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 30, 2015, 02:25:26 pm
Objectionable as they are, I'm not convinced that objectively some of these look any worse than the massive splodges on the holds. Are we bothered about these or is it just the avoidable nature of tick-marks that singles them out?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Banana finger on September 30, 2015, 02:57:44 pm


What we need is some of that fading squirty stuff that referees use these days
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: steveri on March 21, 2016, 09:17:15 am
With apologies for smugness and shaky hands. On the left, knee height - one of the bigger footholds on the crag (Harmer's Wood). Nice and dry, pretty easy to spot from above. Stuff at hip height mostly ornament in the wrong place...

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/e35/12826122_1702598700016009_1143696905_n.jpg)

https://www.instagram.com/p/BDLydbzNie0/?taken-by=steverile
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: remus on March 21, 2016, 12:26:04 pm
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CFnSV8IWgAIXljh.jpg:large)

Call me a blasphemer, but that really doesn't seem so bad to me.

Getting just the right jam in a finger crack can be really tricky, especially if you're puffing out of your ass. And from the looks of it there's only a handful of ticks through the crux section of the route. Perhaps a little on the large side but again not exactly crime of the century.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: haydn jones on March 21, 2016, 03:08:22 pm
Bit of a mess left behind on Zarzaparrilla, the black lines seemed particularly creative

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/28/b8112549e243181c1bb219e9341b5c0e.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/28/8965d9bd03c21a0a0fdb891f44d078d3.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/28/b90283c173eee087dcfa02e8a216706f.jpg)


The black lines are actually the recomended for of ticks. You use the bark of the trees to tick the rock. Although tour still ment to brish the tick off of course.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2016, 03:20:25 pm

The black lines are actually the recomended for of ticks. You use the bark of the trees to tick the rock. Although tour still ment to brish the tick off of course.

Is English your first language?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on March 21, 2016, 03:59:16 pm


The black lines are actually the recomended for of ticks. You use the bark of the trees to tick the rock. Although tour still ment to brish the tick off of course.

Is English your first language?

Nes.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: haydn jones on March 21, 2016, 04:45:46 pm
ofcoarse inglish is my furst language
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Mumra on March 21, 2016, 05:21:29 pm
Negative tick marks are all the rage
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on March 21, 2016, 05:26:21 pm
Wouldn't they be cross marks?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: joel182 on March 22, 2016, 01:04:27 pm

The black lines are actually the recomended for of ticks. You use the bark of the trees to tick the rock. Although tour still ment to brish the tick off of course.

Fair enough! Not a fan, but can see the reasoning especially around Albarracin.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on May 22, 2016, 08:12:11 pm
Chalk should not be used for this!! today (https://twitter.com/northlees/status/734447688599625733)

(https://i.imgur.com/AuQN2j4.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on May 22, 2016, 08:25:29 pm
"I did a new problem but I don't know how to draw a line on a computer"
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigtuboflard on May 22, 2016, 08:31:16 pm
Lost for words...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Serpico on May 23, 2016, 10:14:28 pm
Went to Longridge today,  almost every single handhold and foothold on the traverse was tick marked - 100m+ of ticks. An epic display of fuck-wittery.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: a dense loner on May 23, 2016, 10:53:24 pm
You need something to see after dark.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 23, 2016, 10:54:45 pm
You need something to see after dark.

Carrots?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on May 24, 2016, 08:55:29 am
Must have been lots to see whilst passing on your motorbike... ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Serpico on May 24, 2016, 09:22:48 am
It was my dog that noticed them, I was too busy chucking litter.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Stabbsy on May 24, 2016, 09:47:05 am
I was going to number them as well, but I can't count that high and I ran out of chalk.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on May 24, 2016, 10:08:05 am
Hammer and chisel work well when you're out of chalk. Best after dark so not to disturb the locals.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on May 24, 2016, 10:12:26 am
I like to sit back on the fence afterwards to see where all the holds are.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Probes on May 24, 2016, 01:02:46 pm
Went to Longridge today,  almost every single handhold and foothold on the traverse was tick marked - 100m+ of ticks. An epic display of fuck-wittery.

Here's photos the day before of said muppetry... :shrug:

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13241184_1257532904287119_147500248651856644_n.jpg?oh=dd640622dcf78f1e2981ea5a56654786&oe=57DBDEE7)
(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13237726_1257532880953788_8298073577217281762_n.jpg?oh=f4f78273bb2702de927950e5adebf60b&oe=57D62CB1)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Falling Down on May 24, 2016, 09:13:52 pm
Blimey - someone needs some glasses. 
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 25, 2016, 04:57:18 pm
I've been known to put a few ticks on thigs at longridge but for the record, those aren't mine this time.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fultonius on June 12, 2016, 11:20:32 pm
I'm going to self-refer. Not photos, thank god, but was climbing without the requisite brush on a rope at Fairhead and used my chalk rag to scrub off lichen and "green" from some footholds. Nasty big white lines... bit embarrasing when some friends later climbed the route and asked WFT I'd been doing using those footholds.

I hadn't. I'd cleaned the wrong ones.  :slap:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andyd on June 14, 2016, 04:56:39 pm
Almscliff was a right mess at the weekend. Saturday morning revealed some horrible 'scrubbing' with chalk balls beneath orchrist.
Worst still were the chalk lines to the sinker foot holds on slopey traverse next to morrell's wall. Whoever did those needs a slap. Luckily been washed away by this week's deluge
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigironhorse on June 14, 2016, 05:35:27 pm
Worst still were the chalk lines to the sinker foot holds on slopey traverse next to morrell's wall. Whoever did those needs a slap.

Can't believe anyone would consider trying this when it isn't about 2 degrees! Always feels desperate unless its baltic!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on June 14, 2016, 08:15:21 pm
Worst still were the chalk lines to the sinker foot holds on slopey traverse next to morrell's wall. Whoever did those needs a slap.

Can't believe anyone would consider trying this when it isn't about 2 degrees! Always feels desperate unless its baltic!

Bizarrely it's not too bad for summer attempts. It never gets the sun (so the rock never gets too warm) and if there's a breeze.....
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on June 15, 2016, 10:49:17 am
I still never did the fucking thing.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on June 15, 2016, 11:11:11 am
I still never did the fucking thing.

Me neither :D
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 29, 2016, 12:46:42 am
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/27891403911_d445f04308_b.jpg)

Hands in the air, everyone who knows what hold that is  :ohmy:

Taken from an original photo courtesy of BoB - let me know if you want me to remove this, or provide a link to the otherwise excellent photo  :)

 :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: haydn jones on June 29, 2016, 01:05:26 am
the storm?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 29, 2016, 03:33:36 am
the storm?

Right in the eye of!  :boxing:

http://blogofbutters.blogspot.com/2011/03/team-slovenia-day-6.html?m=1

Not very difficult that one though, was it  ;)

I hope someone told him you're supposed to hold the top, and not just caress the rock between the lines..

Some nice shots in the blog.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: moose on June 29, 2016, 06:37:27 am
a route addition to the list - big, lines of red chalk (that is, proper "stick of chalk" stuff) to point to various holds on Supercool at Gordale.  Someone evidently went up there prepared - a frustrated teacher?! (or do they all use white-boards and Powerpoint these days?).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on June 29, 2016, 08:27:18 am
a route addition to the list - big, lines of red chalk (that is, proper "stick of chalk" stuff) to point to various holds on Supercool at Gordale.  Someone evidently went up there prepared - a frustrated teacher?! (or do they all use white-boards and Powerpoint these days?).

Red chalk? I hope it's just blood
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: slackline on June 29, 2016, 08:34:28 am
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/27891403911_d445f04308_b.jpg)

Hands in the air, everyone who knows what hold that is  :ohmy:


Hopefully the last five years of rain have washed it off.  :P
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on September 11, 2016, 05:16:02 pm
Not many ticks, probably cos they ran out by hideously chalking the footholds.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/a8cab6811a08266e61931aed5068c7c6.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on October 01, 2016, 03:07:19 am
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8397/29950610541_cb90c8c6fd_b.jpg)

Oh dear, this is just pathetic :no:

Doesn't look as though it worked, either.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Footwork on October 10, 2016, 10:18:14 pm
https://vimeo.com/182977087 (https://vimeo.com/182977087)

He even farts at 55 seconds.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Sasquatch on October 10, 2016, 10:27:06 pm
Those look helpful....
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy P on October 11, 2016, 01:25:39 am
What an absolute load of complete & utter toss-pottery. Disgraceful.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Mike Tyson on October 11, 2016, 06:37:45 am
Branch dab anyway, back around you tick marking toss pot!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on October 11, 2016, 08:16:43 am
Is that Lagers?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fatneck on October 11, 2016, 02:28:33 pm
That fart is amazing...  :weakbench: :lol: :clap2:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mr chaz on October 11, 2016, 02:45:08 pm
Good volume and decent tone, poor sustain. 5/10
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nai on October 11, 2016, 02:47:21 pm
It's a boot squeak surely  :shrug: the heel squishing in a bit
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on October 11, 2016, 02:58:27 pm
Protocol for discussing farts vs. other noises:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0kANChxhhQ
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fatneck on October 12, 2016, 10:29:15 am
Quote from: nai
the heel squishing in a bit

I just listened again on high volume and there is a similar noise at 1.33 again when he puts his heel up. It is however, much funnier to imagine it's a fart...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: richieb on October 14, 2016, 08:52:58 pm
Torridon and the Ship boulder in particular was a mess yesterday. It hasn't rained for a couple of weeks so you'd expect some build up of chalk, but it was obvious that no effort had been made to brush off the excess.

And then the tick marks. The first photo below is the jug on the slab at the top of Malc's. You can see this hold from the road, fair enough it might be sort of hidden when you are topping out, but if you've got the lip on Malc's I'm pretty sure you can hang around for the one second it takes to find this jug. No need and even if you do need, brush it off afterwards.
There were other ugly and unnecessary tick marks all over the boulder. 

Also, someone couldn't be arsed to walk 5 minutes to the toilet block and instead decided to take a shit right in the middle of the boulders. Thanks for that.
 
I'm really gutted because this is exactly what we feared when writing the guidebook.
I love it when people who have taken a gamble and travelled a long way are rewarded with good weather and get to experience the place at its finest.
And then they leave it like this...
 
I actually want it to rain now to clean the place up.

(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8649/29674471054_45de92c95d.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Mdeqph)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Mdeqph) by richiebetts (https://www.flickr.com/photos/richiebetts/), on Flickr

(https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5829/29694491054_f6825666d8.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Mf12DG)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Mf12DG) by richiebetts (https://www.flickr.com/photos/richiebetts/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: kelvin on November 09, 2016, 04:46:55 pm
Churnet on Sunday - plenty of tick marks that'll never be washed off by the rain and no attempt to brush them or keep them small.

This was the worst, maybe 5/6 inches long, I've no idea how they managed to get the chalk on as thick as they had  :shrug: Sorry about the size of the pic.

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15036281_10157751904020581_3798726685439982883_n.jpg?oh=c0fa5d165504181b3dcad358cd7b4e4f&oe=58CA1E54)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: masonwoods101 on November 30, 2016, 09:07:01 am
Whoever made such a mess of brad pit should be ashamed. And how they can afford all that chalk I'll never know...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Footwork on December 01, 2016, 10:20:51 pm
wow

https://www.instagram.com/p/BNb9NzyBhbg/?taken-by=fabi_buhl&hl=en (https://www.instagram.com/p/BNb9NzyBhbg/?taken-by=fabi_buhl&hl=en)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on December 02, 2016, 05:37:56 am
Holy cow! It clearly wasn't dry!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: T_B on December 02, 2016, 07:45:03 am
That's appalling. I could totally imagine the right hand end of the crimp rail breaking in those conditions.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on December 02, 2016, 09:18:00 am
seen the other people there guessing by the tags?

a few who know the grit well...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tommytwotone on December 02, 2016, 09:50:14 am
Saw another pic on Instagram yesterday of Boyager looking similarly caked.  :-\
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on December 02, 2016, 10:07:12 am
Hey, you Nazis! Hey, you fascists! Can't you see that fabi_buhl is trying to #livewithoutlimits? And here's you twats trying to impose limits on him and telling him not to climb. The rock can go fuck itself, fabi wants to send.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cheque on December 02, 2016, 10:09:14 am
How do we know that it's Fabi's chalk?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on December 02, 2016, 10:11:47 am
Who gives a shit? We're on the bandwagon now and the next stop is Ragetown! Are you geddin' on?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: 36chambers on December 02, 2016, 10:17:52 am
How do we know that it's Fabi's chalk?

It may not be his chalk, but by uploading the picture isn't he (unintentionally) promoting that type of chalking?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cheque on December 02, 2016, 10:27:34 am
He's replied to Dave's Instagram comment:

Quote from: Fabi Buhl
yes it is way to much but it was already chalked in, probably someone tried it just after the massive rainstorm earlier in the week. No worries we brushed it...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy B on December 02, 2016, 10:41:17 am
 A Case of Mistaken Identity, at Apparent North, was left in a state on Sunday (at least a dozen tick marks left) after a big group (with at least one coach from The Works, who should know better and be setting a good example) moved on.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2016, 12:06:03 pm
Name and shame
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Baldy on December 02, 2016, 12:10:25 pm
To clarify The Brad Pit situation - I was up there the same day with Fabi and Melissa.

a) Fabi stacked it on white wand and has busted his heel - he didn't climb all day.
b) BP was completely dry, so I dont think there was any chance of breakage - however, at the time of the chalking (on a previous day) that might have been a different situation. Fabi and Melissa both commented on the state of the problem - but it would have taken hours to try and clean the whole thing up. The tick marks were obscene - so they were all brushed off before leaving. I've no idea who put that chalk on there, but they are a f*cking idiot - There's no reason to cover the whole of the topout in chalk. It will need a good rain to clear up.
c) Neither Mason nor Mina were there.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy B on December 02, 2016, 05:01:41 pm
Name and shame

I don't know their name, I've just seen them Working at The Works, and I'm not interested in witch hunts anyway.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Drew on December 03, 2016, 10:01:11 pm
I'm not suggesting that Fabi and Melissa were climbing BP while wet, but I have definitely seen posts of locals climbing routes while raining. And one's who really should know better.

Considering the number of indoor walls, concrete boulders and perma-dry crags surely there's always another option.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Dolly on December 04, 2016, 08:03:38 pm
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o8FhJvft01bzWLzIbiJIAqcbzZZcg7jsTP55fTACm2obXTHnDSBMX0eetran9-csv2EqcmFLVdDv6aOt6GO4zv7Fv_gPmxetq0PBSjsOz7_lSBe6kM08vp4pjUAVqARxIwZyHx_taOanWNMFIfSPi7_6Ho9xIBE5WRANpVyRc2_2OM-LkfIJMzY1eaYJtwMzmUn1R2oii6oq1Fd8lx3JxnRkId0UfdXO6Ym2CnE7RbUzqw1t8uvabaJkmKIxbp8iH-pDXvP3rDuWx7RDQRj9UAMpZTBfRKGH8HxoI0PrSkpXCD58dkDUbzkgdQOPxc1feO-BmFSJo-ubo-F49-GwhHED-VYdRxKr-0zwjb3htBpCnBX3pRJ0jZya_XeZClLBIAo2mMh-X7nf2WzndCcpzoRwL7PhcMYUfbzYE4ldvDYyA1kYKHEhIBzABZcA93YRGnx5YKg3yGgEDi410OJF9d6e6r4y9jrGWletw-gA2XoHTrbxQUnf5hkT85YwXFRbz0ER_HiISqmDhu_pnhFeLFLkCnqvxijRQFTlG3oE3AqzoUNHSE5Por1hbTnyFmLxmdXATT8NaMDwfO4wO34bnFeddVQhAti3CtOlpx9j9Ya2ZY4J=w1282-h721-no)Not a massive crime in the great scheme of things, but FFS
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on December 05, 2016, 02:57:49 pm
I disagree. People who can't embed photos properly should be shot.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on December 18, 2016, 02:06:23 pm
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/752230eda70b991492df831cdc5815cf.jpg)

Cleaned this up this morning.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on December 18, 2016, 02:20:08 pm
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/752230eda70b991492df831cdc5815cf.jpg)

Cleaned this up this morning.

AGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: J.Kydd on December 20, 2016, 08:59:51 am
Hows this for a little rock painting  :slap:

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/691/31722662486_943e652c5a_b.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Teaboy on December 20, 2016, 09:40:49 am
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/752230eda70b991492df831cdc5815cf.jpg)

Cleaned this up this morning.

.....and then you slap your left hand up the arête
What? That litte diagonal seam?
No, where all the chalk is
I'm not sure I can see what you mean
Where the rock stops being rock and starts being air
Can you tick mark it please
OK, there you go
I can't see those as they are disguised by all the other chalk
OK I'll put them 6" to the right
OK, so I go for the tick marks?
No, go 6" left where all the other chalk is and the rock runs out
OK, thanks, I think I've got that now
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on December 29, 2016, 05:21:33 pm
Sterling tickwork north of the border by Dave Mac

https://twitter.com/davemacleod09/status/814493094087364608
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: GazM on December 29, 2016, 06:16:26 pm
To be fair to Dave they may not be his. That boulder has been in a right state for ages - very stubborn ticks that need a pessure wash. There are some locals that should know better...
There's a pic on my blog from a couple of weeks ago here: http://www.gaz-softrock.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/ticked-off.html?m=1
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on December 29, 2016, 07:09:34 pm
No ones posted up the cock jizzing on tits chalk ticks up at Thorn that's been gracing Facebook?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fatneck on December 31, 2016, 04:40:51 pm
AKA The Owl?

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-0/s480x480/15672627_732110476952224_1317114360764965138_n.jpg?oh=a46eb51827fa43c701ba884970ff058c&oe=58F0B018)

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15665678_732110513618887_8435422226653056998_n.jpg?oh=ad1cd010ef6ae421929fc57dce095c06&oe=58F2B5A9)


Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on December 31, 2016, 05:03:18 pm
That's the one! Twit twoozers!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mark20 on March 04, 2017, 10:53:26 pm
Fucking hell this is ridiculous
https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=289766
(sorry UKC don't allow you embed their pics)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: haworthjim on March 05, 2017, 12:20:41 pm
Fucking hell this is ridiculous
https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=289766
(sorry UKC don't allow you embed their pics)
I took this photo and have pulled it as I feel I am being held responsible for the absolute fucking state this bloc is. Those who know Deux Faux Plus Reels know how popular it is and the state it gets into- just Google and you'll see.  In hindsight I should made more of an effort to remove the ticks and chalk prior to the photo and to be honest shouldn't have posted it up on UKC for punters to point fingers. Sam and I spent quite a time cleaning it up before we left with,ironically, a brush we found under the boulder. Those who know me personally know how much I detest tick marks.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: deacon on March 05, 2017, 04:17:12 pm
I was one of the punters that criticised the photo (not you by the way), and tbh what do you expect? It was a fucking disgrace and yes I know the problem, and no I've never seen it as bad as that.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: galpinos on March 27, 2017, 01:37:44 pm
Another one from the other channel:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=290790

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on March 27, 2017, 02:18:40 pm
FFS
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigironhorse on March 27, 2017, 02:38:22 pm
That is a fucking disgrace  :wank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wil on March 27, 2017, 05:37:12 pm
There were tickmarks up Elder Statesman at Curbar on Sunday, presumably from the day before. Even the jug on Elder Crack was ticked! Good effort to anyone trying it, but still...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on March 27, 2017, 08:37:51 pm
Worst thing about that London wall thing is that it implies someone was likely toproping or at the very least heavily ab inspecting a very safe E5.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 27, 2017, 08:43:46 pm
Another one from the other channel:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=290790

 :o :o What Dave said.  Take up tiddlywinks or something.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: fatboySlimfast on March 30, 2017, 09:25:36 am
There were tickmarks up Elder Statesman at Curbar on Sunday, presumably from the day before. Even the jug on Elder Crack was ticked! Good effort to anyone trying it, but still...
On a side issue
https://www.facebook.com/edalemountainrescue/?hc_ref=SEARCH&fref=nf
I though at the time 3 ropes was overkill, maybe not
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: HaeMeS on March 30, 2017, 11:07:43 am
http://www.pareti.it/climbing-magazine/recensioni-news/news-pareti/638-brutto-incidente-per-michele-caminati-in-inghilterra

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 30, 2017, 11:19:27 am
Worst thing about that London wall thing is that it implies someone was likely toproping or at the very least heavily ab inspecting a very safe E5.

 :agree: good call Dave, the "climb however you want" brigade might get their Y-fronts in a twist over that but it's definitely worth saying. Correlation between shoddy ethics not respecting the climbing and, errr,  shoddy ethics not respecting the climb, who knows??

The Elder Statesman fall, quite surprising that it's MC as I thought he had a lot of good experience and mentoring from previous trips over here??
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SFrancis on March 30, 2017, 11:33:13 am
We were in Millstone end of feb, and i'm pretty sure the culprits were there camping. There was a couple climbing it and the gear was being practised on top rope, and the route was complete with the tick marks shown in the photo (a fucking mess). I hadn't seen tactics like this before, it was being treated like a sport route. I tried to speak to them but there english wasnt brilliant, they were european couldn't say exactly where. I guess they have different ethics....
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 30, 2017, 11:55:27 am
Quote
The Elder Statesman fall, quite surprising that it's MC as I thought he had a lot of good experience and mentoring from previous trips over here??

Didn't he deck out on the New Statesman too? Possibly due to gear ripping?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Mr_Cus on March 30, 2017, 12:35:21 pm
Quote
The Elder Statesman fall, quite surprising that it's MC as I thought he had a lot of good experience and mentoring from previous trips over here??

Didn't he deck out on the New Statesman too? Possibly due to gear ripping?

This says the rope got cut in the fall and a broken arm! Not good!
http://www.edalemrt.co.uk/cgi-bin/createIncidentMap.cgi?mapMode=Specific&mapIncident=17&mapYear=2017
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 30, 2017, 12:42:18 pm
Two different routes there. Edale MRT not quite on the ball with hard grit aretes ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: dave on March 30, 2017, 12:59:55 pm
SHIIIIIT! That's a bad fall for a "safe" route. Didn't Steve Mac do this with 3 ropes to insure against this happening?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wil on March 30, 2017, 01:15:11 pm
Ouch. Steve McClure definitely had 3 ropes as I remember the comment in the video of him doing it. Pearson had 2, but I think they were pretty skinny and he didn't fall.

Get well soon Michele, nasty fall to take.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on March 30, 2017, 01:53:39 pm
Two different routes there. Edale MRT not quite on the ball with hard grit aretes ;)

Falling off The New Statesman and landing in the Peak is a nasty fall indeed.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on April 02, 2017, 11:59:12 am
IIRC Michele fell off The New Statesman before placing the first protection. Close call that one. This one is terrifying.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: csl on April 12, 2017, 02:39:24 pm
In case you couldn't see the giant jug, some helpful tickmarks from Eridge  >:(

(http://i.imgur.com/xt7o6VU.jpg)

Southern sandstone seems to suffer particularly badly from tickmarking hordes, even more frustrating as its often too soft to feel comfortable cleaning them off!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on April 12, 2017, 03:17:35 pm
It's the proximity to London: the broiling epicentre of twat behaviour.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: csl on April 12, 2017, 03:45:27 pm
I feel like an old man saying it, but i think its a 'wall-bred' climber issue. But as a full-blown, card-carrying London twat, I admit it could just be that too.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Durbs on April 12, 2017, 05:19:48 pm
I feel like an old man saying it, but i think its a 'wall-bred' climber issue. But as a full-blown, card-carrying London twat, I admit it could just be that too.

Yep - I'd say more wall-bred than Londoner (I'm in Surrey - much more civilised...).
Seeing ticks on indoor routes is pretty special, though if you need them to find a coloured hold, I imagine having a sandstone coloured jug must require two.  :wank:

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cheque on April 13, 2017, 09:09:33 am
as a full-blown, card-carrying London twat

(https://img.buzzfeed.com/buzzfeed-static/static/2013-12/enhanced/webdr05/18/9/anigif_enhanced-buzz-24986-1387376051-29.gif?crop=544:360;40,0})
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: wMickey on October 03, 2017, 10:31:34 am
Instagram post so can't work out how to embed it but this struck me as pretty awful.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZwMms5lMo6/
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on October 03, 2017, 11:42:40 am
Probably needs a few more there it seems...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on October 03, 2017, 11:43:53 am
Instagram post so can't work out how to embed it but this struck me as pretty awful.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZwMms5lMo6/

Especially combined with all the bollocks about "flow."
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on October 03, 2017, 11:51:38 am
Flow doesn't occur randomly at all. She needs a word with professors Froude and Reynolds.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wil on October 03, 2017, 01:17:43 pm
I snuck around the woods in the Forest of Dean a couple of weeks back to try Labour of Love (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=183295). Disappointed to see it ticked to pieces. There are a few hard to see footholds under the overlaps, but every hold on the route was ticked! Brushed them off, but didn't have a camera handy.

It's a good, if quirky, route if anyone is down that way. Think Nesscliffe meets valleys sandstone.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: kelvin on October 30, 2017, 06:30:03 pm
https://vimeo.com/48602839

Dunno how to link it in properly but this needs showing on repeat at every climbing wall.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on December 07, 2017, 12:39:05 pm
Rob Greenwood has added a gallery to UKC for this sort of thing and some of the entries are absolutely vile. I think the worst is the attempted drying of Zippy's with chalk:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=302878

I'm seething.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: steveri on December 07, 2017, 03:52:55 pm
 :slap:
There's an article due shortly which should help.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigironhorse on December 17, 2017, 07:57:12 am
Grim reaper at new mills an absolute disgrace yesterday.  A load of foot long arrows presumably drawn by dabbing a chalk ball repeatedly against the rock and in case they still couldn't see the footholds they had underlined all the good edges. Brushed most of it off, hopefully restoring my karma for pulling a hold of bionics wall.  :(

Anyone know what happened with the big block that has come of bionics wall? Hopefully no one was climbing it sat the time! Weirdly it seems to have been taken away as it was nowhere in sight.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on August 23, 2018, 02:07:04 pm
I reported this to Punterwatch the other day. The Sugarloaf boulder at Caley. On the side that faces the bridleway. Written in climbing chalk, so obviously done by climbers. Obviously this sort of thing normalises the view that the rock is a canvas for scratching in your initials/marriage proposal or whatever. Incredibly stupid. Fortunately I had a hand brush in the bag and it came off very nicely with some washing.

https://twitter.com/PunterWatchUK/status/1032169573192269825

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Durbs on August 23, 2018, 02:19:33 pm
Written in climbing chalk, so obviously done by climbers.

Not necessarily, climbers aren't averse to letting lumps of chalk fall out their bucket/bag and not put them back in.
So still, could've been avoided had they not, but would be surprised if it was actually climbers doing the "art".
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on August 23, 2018, 02:43:21 pm
Written in climbing chalk, so obviously done by climbers.

Not necessarily, climbers aren't averse to letting lumps of chalk fall out their bucket/bag and not put them back in.
So still, could've been avoided had they not, but would be surprised if it was actually climbers doing the "art".

I'd be amazed if it wasn't climbers.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on August 23, 2018, 03:18:01 pm
Written in climbing chalk, so obviously done by climbers.

Not necessarily, climbers aren't averse to letting lumps of chalk fall out their bucket/bag and not put them back in.
So still, could've been avoided had they not, but would be surprised if it was actually climbers doing the "art".

I'd be amazed if it wasn't climbers.

Something you aren’t telling us Will? ;)

Time for an identity parade.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on August 23, 2018, 03:28:18 pm
There can't be that many Nick and Holls in Yorkshire who have only just started climbing.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on August 23, 2018, 05:05:06 pm
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c1IOfbMqRHA

(Obvs graffiti is bad - v bad - but identity parade reminded me of this :D)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy_e on August 24, 2018, 07:05:03 pm
It could just as easily be non-climbers as climbers. There's often plenty of bits of chalk knocking around that area.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on August 27, 2018, 11:43:13 am
I'd be surprised if it was climbers.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on August 27, 2018, 12:30:40 pm
Isn't the irony, that it's the local youth copying the fine example set by ourselves?

To that end, the cock-n-balls is entirely appropriate!

I find this sort of thing far less offensive than the self indulgent visual litter that we ought to know better not to leave.

Hope it works out for Nick & Holls. Sounds far more promising than "RIP Maddy's condom" would suggest, which is nicely preserved in permanent marker on the bars in my local park  ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Dan23584 on September 02, 2018, 09:28:37 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/BnE1yVqggzW/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1m682asz7om70
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigironhorse on September 03, 2018, 07:28:37 am
#dickhead
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigironhorse on September 03, 2018, 10:48:25 am
I sent them a message on Instagram suggesting why it might not be a good idea to do/post stuff like that. I don't think they took it very seriously.

Reply was: "Luv u 2"

 :wank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: 36chambers on September 03, 2018, 06:35:24 pm
looks damp as well #wetrockaction
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cofe on October 23, 2018, 02:10:20 pm
Small is Beautiful at Burbage was a state the other day. Caked all the way up and topped with massive donkey lines. Photo doesn't really do it justice:

(https://image.ibb.co/joj0tA/IMG-7551.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SamT on October 23, 2018, 02:17:59 pm
 :o

F*ck me. 

Its not like all the holds are bleeding obvious on that thing anyway.

Grrrrrr   :wank:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Steve R on October 30, 2018, 04:33:04 pm
Next level moronic happenings at my local bouldering area:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1946/44721281855_79eaf3c866_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2b8Sg2H)laramade2 (https://flic.kr/p/2b8Sg2H) by Steve Ram (https://www.flickr.com/photos/167729159@N03/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1910/31762821798_d11d9bdc20_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QoLLjA)laramade3 (https://flic.kr/p/QoLLjA) by Steve Ram (https://www.flickr.com/photos/167729159@N03/), on Flickr
and presumably in case you can't find the way down:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1946/45584537832_92439f783a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cs9EXs)laramade1 (https://flic.kr/p/2cs9EXs) by Steve Ram (https://www.flickr.com/photos/167729159@N03/), on Flickr
Fortunately the spray paint doesn't seem too permanent - looks as though it'll come off with some brushing with water and detergent but still...
 
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Andy W on October 30, 2018, 05:41:02 pm
Next level moronic happenings at my local bouldering area:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1946/44721281855_79eaf3c866_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2b8Sg2H)laramade2 (https://flic.kr/p/2b8Sg2H) by Steve Ram (https://www.flickr.com/photos/167729159@N03/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1910/31762821798_d11d9bdc20_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QoLLjA)laramade3 (https://flic.kr/p/QoLLjA) by Steve Ram (https://www.flickr.com/photos/167729159@N03/), on Flickr
and presumably in case you can't find the way down:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1946/45584537832_92439f783a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cs9EXs)laramade1 (https://flic.kr/p/2cs9EXs) by Steve Ram (https://www.flickr.com/photos/167729159@N03/), on Flickr
Fortunately the spray paint doesn't seem too permanent - looks as though it'll come off with some brushing with water and detergent but still...
 

Glad you took the photo's Steve, worth saying these dots are spread across all the boulders in this sector.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: bigironhorse on October 30, 2018, 08:33:03 pm
Next level moronic happenings at my local bouldering area:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1946/44721281855_79eaf3c866_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2b8Sg2H)laramade2 (https://flic.kr/p/2b8Sg2H) by Steve Ram (https://www.flickr.com/photos/167729159@N03/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1910/31762821798_d11d9bdc20_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QoLLjA)laramade3 (https://flic.kr/p/QoLLjA) by Steve Ram (https://www.flickr.com/photos/167729159@N03/), on Flickr
and presumably in case you can't find the way down:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1946/45584537832_92439f783a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cs9EXs)laramade1 (https://flic.kr/p/2cs9EXs) by Steve Ram (https://www.flickr.com/photos/167729159@N03/), on Flickr
Fortunately the spray paint doesn't seem too permanent - looks as though it'll come off with some brushing with water and detergent but still...
 

What are they for?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Steve R on October 30, 2018, 10:33:50 pm
Not really sure, initial guess is that they were sprayed on to show a large group of kids or similar where to try and climb up and where to get down.  Definitely 'climbing' related anyway.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jwi on March 28, 2019, 01:53:06 pm
Not a donkey line, but a line of donkeys. And then they pretend to be surprised when bouldering areas are closing due to access issues. If it was my lawn, I would just call the police.

(https://i.imgur.com/hs7aZ7D.jpg)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 28, 2019, 02:23:52 pm
Need a bit of context for that one. It's the wagon thingy, but what are the restrictions on pad parties / send train bellends?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: joel182 on March 28, 2019, 02:52:48 pm
Shawn Raboutou posted  this is November last year (https://www.instagram.com/p/BqxIuxaBg83/?utm_source=ig_embed&ig_mid=XC4RZgABAAGKuEeHz60QFMBZHTjk):

"I want to mention that there are access issues. You can not try this game from April through October due to the land owner wanting to conserve the grass for his animals. Please be respectful and discreet because it's private land."
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jwi on March 28, 2019, 03:28:29 pm
It's on private land. The owner want to use the grass below the boulder for grazing in the summer. It's used to park farm equipment.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Nibile on March 28, 2019, 04:39:13 pm
If that is the idea of being discreet and respectful...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: user deactivated on March 28, 2019, 07:28:44 pm
Not a donkey line, but a line of donkeys. And then they pretend to be surprised when bouldering areas are closing due to access issues. If it was my lawn, I would just call the police.

(https://i.imgur.com/hs7aZ7D.jpg)

Team America world police
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Mike Tyson on March 28, 2019, 10:34:31 pm
Looks like there are a few proper wads there too, who really should know better.......
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Danny on April 11, 2019, 11:16:18 pm
On his solo of Fitz Roy, Jim Reynolds "dabbed chalk on key holds in the hope of spotting them on the way down and built cairns to aid route finding"

Ticked up to the eyeballs by all accounts. Absolute disgrace if you ask me, and surely the most egregious happening in Patagonia since the Compressor Route was established.

Karma:

"The descent proved far slower, forcing Reynolds to downclimb wet, technical slabs in the dark by headlamp, where he discovered that his tickmarks had been washed away."
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: kc on July 03, 2019, 07:02:46 pm
Don't you just love it when your semi secret traverse you've been trying has been splattered in rookie Stripes and all the footholds marked with fat chalk ball prints. Not so secret anymore I guess.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: JCorbot on July 03, 2019, 08:11:51 pm
That’s disappointing to hear KC. Is it on limestone or something more porous like sand or gritstone? On limestone which I’ve recently started to enjoy, I find a soft brush works wonders for cleaning off chalk. Have you tried the Lapis ones? I find normal toothbrushes a bit inferior 
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on July 03, 2019, 08:17:47 pm
That’s disappointing to hear KC. Is it on limestone or something more porous like sand or gritstone? On limestone which I’ve recently started to enjoy, I find a soft brush works wonders for cleaning off chalk. Have you tried the Lapis ones? I find normal toothbrushes a bit inferior 

Too obvious.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on July 03, 2019, 08:18:45 pm
Don't you just love it when your semi secret traverse you've been trying has been splattered in rookie Stripes and all the footholds marked with fat chalk ball prints. Not so secret anymore I guess.

You can tell us where it is now  ;)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: JCorbot on July 03, 2019, 08:53:40 pm
That’s disappointing to hear KC. Is it on limestone or something more porous like sand or gritstone? On limestone which I’ve recently started to enjoy, I find a soft brush works wonders for cleaning off chalk. Have you tried the Lapis ones? I find normal toothbrushes a bit inferior 

Too obvious.

I’m not sure I get what you’re saying WFT? What’s too obvious?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on July 03, 2019, 09:09:14 pm
That’s disappointing to hear KC. Is it on limestone or something more porous like sand or gritstone? On limestone which I’ve recently started to enjoy, I find a soft brush works wonders for cleaning off chalk. Have you tried the Lapis ones? I find normal toothbrushes a bit inferior 

Too obvious.

I’m not sure I get what you’re saying WFT? What’s too obvious?

That you work for Lapisdan
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: JCorbot on July 03, 2019, 09:12:23 pm
I must admit I do find ukb a very strange forum, a bit unfriendly even. When is it acceptable to make a comment about a toothbrush?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on July 03, 2019, 09:15:46 pm
If its any consolation I thought the snark you received just now was totally uncalled for. One the whole it is a friendly place but you seem to be posting constructively and have twice received digs you didn't deserve. I hope you persevere.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mark20 on July 03, 2019, 10:59:31 pm
Don't you just love it when your semi secret traverse you've been trying has been splattered in rookie Stripes and all the footholds marked with fat chalk ball prints. Not so secret anymore I guess.

You can tell us where it is now  ;)

This season's premier Peak lime crag. The chalk ball prints are a bit of an eyesore to be honest
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on July 03, 2019, 11:07:59 pm
Don't you just love it when your semi secret traverse you've been trying has been splattered in rookie Stripes and all the footholds marked with fat chalk ball prints. Not so secret anymore I guess.

You can tell us where it is now  ;)

This season's premier Peak lime crag. The chalk ball prints are a bit of an eyesore to be honest

The Billy No-mates Trav? I'm keen for that, need some tarp though or the mud must mean you need a dws style bag of shoes. Shame about the chalk ball prints, is this an attempt at drying or marking the feet?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mark20 on July 03, 2019, 11:31:44 pm
I’m guessing they get damp from condensation low down. Looks a good traverse though, good effort to he-who must-not-be-named for making the effort, hopefully the worst of the chalk is cleaned up before long
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: JCorbot on July 04, 2019, 12:25:40 am
Thanks Andy. Is this still about toothbrushes? Can I get ‘in’ on the joke?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: moose on July 04, 2019, 08:06:39 am
If its any consolation I thought the snark you received just now was totally uncalled for. One the whole it is a friendly place but you seem to be posting constructively and have twice received digs you didn't deserve. I hope you persevere.

Definite odour of faux naïf from a lot of the posts though.... his contributions to some of these threads give me Louis-Theroux-interviewing-a-rotter flashbacks.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: JCorbot on July 04, 2019, 08:30:38 am
I’m not a massive Louis Theroux fan Moose, and I hope I wouldn’t be tricked by his slippery questioning. I’n much more of a ‘Jeremy Clarkson’ man myself.I’m not sure what this has to do with any posts or overuse of magnesium carbonate though? Or don’t you think it’s important to clean the rock?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: petejh on July 04, 2019, 10:07:49 am
Definite odour of faux naïf from a lot of the posts though.... his contributions to some of these threads give me Louis-Theroux-interviewing-a-rotter flashbacks.

He's definitely Dan Cheetham or somebody doing an impersonation of Dan Cheetham trying to impersonate somebody else  :P

Click his name and click on 'show posts'. A disproportionate number of his posts contain Cheetham's much-loved style of question, rhetorical or otherwise.

Is it not ok to ask questions on ukb?..
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: spidermonkey09 on July 04, 2019, 11:10:30 am
What Pete said. I was suckered to begin with, now I'm just bored. The site has been way better recently, don't feed the troll...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: haydn jones on July 04, 2019, 12:45:32 pm
Don't you just love it when your semi secret traverse you've been trying has been splattered in rookie Stripes and all the footholds marked with fat chalk ball prints. Not so secret anymore I guess.

I assume this was me. I went after work one evening and it was piss wet with condensation so had to dry every hold with a chalk ball/sock combo. Went back on a dry day and agree its an eye sore as the rock is black limestone there and the white stands out. Next time I'm down I'll be sure to spend my resting tine cleaning the excess chalk.

I'm surprised someone has been trying it though. As there were a lot of holds lose that I pulled off and unchalked. I thought I was the only one to have tried it. I've stabalised a couple of holds with glue too now.

 Maybe we are talking about different traverses though.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: kc on July 04, 2019, 01:49:19 pm
Fair enough, it will clean off.
A couple of years ago I went from the starting jug of drawbridge to no mud and from no mud to tripe. Best go was to the drop down move a couple of meters right of no mud. I only briefly looked at the next section as I was more interested in linking what I'd done first. The rock quality goes a bit shit after morhens till motorhead.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: JCorbot on July 04, 2019, 04:23:45 pm
I’ve tried toilet paper in this situation, but it’s generally clarted the holds up and looks unsightly. Anyway sorry for any offence caused by this suggestion. You’re* right, the site has been an excellent read recently. 👍
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Will Hunt on July 04, 2019, 04:35:41 pm
I'm sure any mistaken identity between Dan and JCorbot can be cleared up by a mod looking at both their IP addresses.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: JCorbot on July 04, 2019, 04:39:04 pm
Did you hear the joke about the prince discovering ‘fuck off charlie’ written in the snow outside the palace? Will Carlin’s urine and princess Di’s hand writing.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on January 07, 2020, 10:48:39 am
Eeek! (sorry is a UKC picture..)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=338082
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: CrimpyMcCrimpface on January 07, 2020, 11:39:11 am
Is that Mossatrocity? Damn, looks like its had the Hueco treatment
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: nai on January 07, 2020, 12:08:06 pm
Yep, from eth other side
https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=338083
 :wall:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SamT on January 07, 2020, 12:33:49 pm

 :wank:

Chalkball used to poff the area of damp rock completely in an attempt to dry it out??

Fucktards.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: UnkArl on January 07, 2020, 09:43:36 pm
Sweet Jesus!!!!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Don Jebus on January 08, 2020, 03:48:02 pm
Fuck me there are some idiotic people about. The weird thing is you never actually see people doing this. It's like they're more interested in painting the rock than climbing....

In fact, are we witnessing the beginning of a strange new sport of 'rock painting'?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on January 08, 2020, 04:23:23 pm
You don't see them loading it on like this because;

1) Most people can figure out connies and not bother going to a crag that will be damp in the first place.
2) Those that do take 1 look and go elsewhere.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on January 08, 2020, 04:58:29 pm
I think it’s bad at the moment as there is a lot of pent up desire to get out as the connies have been so shit. And if the connies are marginal people are making the call to dry and try stuff because they are separate. If it were more sunny and crisp people wouldn’t be so desparete!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on January 08, 2020, 05:18:24 pm
desparete!

If that's not a problem name it should be.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: erm, sam on January 08, 2020, 05:21:20 pm
Burbage South, 7b
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on January 08, 2020, 05:54:56 pm
thought it was familiar.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Duma on January 08, 2020, 07:58:25 pm
desparete!

If that's not a problem name it should be.
Classic Dawes innit:
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/8-burbage-south-edge/boulders/205-desparete-the-rib/problems/836-desparete#.XhY0Juynw0M (http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/8-burbage-south-edge/boulders/205-desparete-the-rib/problems/836-desparete#.XhY0Juynw0M)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on January 09, 2020, 08:41:29 am
thought it was familiar.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on February 05, 2020, 07:26:50 am
Every single hold ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MI38fmR7Lg&feature=emb_logo
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on February 05, 2020, 09:12:51 am
And if they can get away with gangsta rap that crass and n***a this n***a that full, well I'm going all out on the soundtrack of my next video, will make 666 sound like Brian Eno.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: crzylgs on February 05, 2020, 11:30:26 am
Those tick marks are outrageous and the choice of music seems a really bad fit.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: UnkArl on February 05, 2020, 11:10:25 pm
Absolutely awful - the ticks and the “music”
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: 36chambers on February 06, 2020, 09:12:34 am
Music-wise, it's only Drake, Rick Ross, and Nas. As mainstream as you get really. Good viddy.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: macca7 on February 07, 2020, 12:11:33 am
Every single hold on every single problem  :o


Ive never seen anything like it. Everyone has used the odd dot but that is unreal.


Do we know if the climber has sight issues and we're all having a pop at  a semi blind guy :shrug:
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: steveri on February 07, 2020, 10:26:21 am
Do we know if the climber has sight issues and we're all having a pop at  a semi blind guy :shrug:
Happened at the wall recently. Inner voice tutting and silently judging, and the guy turns around and asks "what colour hold is that, I only have 20% vision" :)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on February 07, 2020, 10:27:31 am
The light at our local wall is so shit, that I'm usually that guy.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mark s on February 20, 2020, 09:53:14 pm
https://youtu.be/tDmAI5sZBXM

The second boulder clip.
Not only donkey tick marks
Ridiculous over-caffeinated sugary drink company drinking
To top it off that fucking pointless kt tape.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: AMorris on March 04, 2020, 11:10:15 am
was very much hoping to put this in BoYD because of the outrageous scenes of the attempt that he blew on the topout, but it seems the actual one was clean. The tick marks though....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axNfsOKvBiA
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: crzylgs on March 04, 2020, 11:50:46 am
Those are gross. Such an eyesore and also seem fairly necessary as the move doesn't even look all that blind? :/
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 04, 2020, 09:06:41 pm
Those are gross. Such an eyesore

We are talking about the socks, right?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on March 04, 2020, 09:27:55 pm
Now now, leave hadyn alone...
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: tomtom on March 04, 2020, 09:50:24 pm
Now now, leave hadyn alone...

Is this the f*cking sock wearers union or something? :D
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: AMorris on April 22, 2020, 07:37:30 pm
The absolute state of this boulder.

I found the excessive 'dude' chant riling too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeuwTRIZgNM
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bradders on April 23, 2020, 08:07:50 am
Came here to post this ^^ dreadful
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on April 23, 2020, 09:21:05 am
Those are "pew pew" lazerbeams around the Death Star.

Agree it's a bit shit.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Ally Smith on May 14, 2020, 05:33:27 pm
Some feckin' eegits have been making a mess at Frodsham. Hideous tick-marks and big arrows pointing out footholds on the traverse of Cinema Screen buttress.  :chair:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CALM0M5D6Cp/

I've had a go at cleaning it up but need a water spray to finish the job without scrubbing too vigorously on the soft sandstone
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on July 31, 2020, 08:50:19 am
https://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82267&t=22056

next level.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Dexter on November 05, 2020, 01:53:44 pm
Saw this on my Instagram
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHNUTCKhT0r/?igshid=g89zu2jurjo3

Not the worst offence but doesn't exactly encourage good behaviour from people who aren't aware of bouldering.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Snoops on September 21, 2021, 10:53:24 am
(https://i.ibb.co/JFBCBRz/IMG-0839.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vvwDwxJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/xHbxGTR/IMG-0841.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KwgT7v3)
(https://i.ibb.co/6w3KmTs/IMG-0840.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QQ2WfTm)

Guess it's difficult to know where to put your feet on three pocket wall..... ::)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Motown on September 21, 2021, 12:57:53 pm
Chalking footholds  :wall: :wall: :wall:

Dartmoor footholds are covered these days
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Coops_13 on October 26, 2021, 03:26:39 pm
Welcome to Colorado...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrPwaOtEGeU
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on October 26, 2021, 03:48:49 pm
0:38 is a particularly good one, given that how high the climber's eyes are they can actually see the damn hold!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: crzylgs on October 26, 2021, 03:54:17 pm
Why use one outrageously long tick mark then two or three will make an even more obnoxious eyesore?

Also, what are the odds on any attempt being made to remove the shameful ticks once finished?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jwi on November 25, 2021, 12:49:35 pm
Starts with 5 min of driving to the crag and close-ups of sponsored items before climbing at my favourite bouldering area in Japan. Lots of strong climbing happening, but someone should tell them that the tick marks are not OK. The worsts I have seen.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lm3i9LIo6N4

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: finbarrr on November 25, 2021, 03:34:20 pm
That video just makes me sad. I love seeing them climb, but.. the tick marks, the seperately packaged slices, the non-sit-starts :(
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on December 29, 2021, 01:20:33 pm
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/baslow_edge-20/bob_moss-645579#photos&gid=1&pid=1

A beauty here, along with the photos and problem aesthetics.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: scragrock on December 29, 2021, 01:46:49 pm
Righto i am going try again.

Does this thread actually help STOP people putting excessive amounts of chalk on rock?

Is this thread a tribal " look at them, they are awful. We are great" kind of thing?

Would our time be better spent actually gently educating climbers on a preferred approach?

Just a thought.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: joel182 on December 29, 2021, 02:28:56 pm
Not everything has to be tailored towards optimally persuading people who are behaving badly to improve their behaviour, some things can just be about an expression of frustration.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: scragrock on December 29, 2021, 02:39:37 pm
I understand the frustration but i worry this is simply an echo chamber that in the end achieves little but the ridicule of {i suspect} inexperienced climbers.

It just feels a lot like bullying to me.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 29, 2021, 03:26:46 pm
No one mentioned those huge ticks on floatin, the new v16? Or are they ok on big numbers?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on December 29, 2021, 04:29:34 pm
It just feels a lot like bullying to me.
It's more mockery than bullying.

TBH, don't want to get called out on dabs or daft tickmarks?? Don't put fucking footage / pictures on the internet. And if you don't know that "the ground isn't in" or that the ethics and behaviour guidelines in almost all bouldering guides to "brush off excess chalk" also apply to you, then don't put your fucking footage up either.


Adam: I think there were at least two shots in that footage showing the holds without tickmarks, implying they got washed off or brushed off at some points. Also they weren't that OTT by the standards of some modern tickmarking.

Edit: Start of Session 4 and Session 9, you can see the holds un-ticked. I was actually going to call this one out but did glimpse the unticked holds.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wellsy on December 29, 2021, 04:33:26 pm
I mostly use this thread as a threat of consequences for certain people I know who I could name and shame if they returned to their reprehensible ways
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jwi on December 29, 2021, 04:39:27 pm
No one mentioned those huge ticks on floatin, the new v16? Or are they ok on big numbers?

Someone must educate the new generation of Japanese inner-city wads about tick-marks. I have tried to leave polite comments on videos, but I doubt it helps. Mateusz Haladaj once got up a 9a in Santa Linya he had already done with a spray bottle and a brush to clean up some ridiculous tick-marks a Japanese climber had left after dogging the route and then told him that this is unacceptable in Europe. Maybe that helped...

I fear that this is one of the situations when the hierarchical structure of the Japanese society works agains them as Koyamada-sama seem to be very free with his chalk painting.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: cheque on December 29, 2021, 05:22:44 pm
Not everything has to be tailored towards optimally persuading people who are behaving badly to improve their behaviour, some things can just be about an expression of frustration.

 :agree: Can’t believe it’s got to be said. I can’t speak for anyone else but I don’t feel like the 40 seconds a month I spend clicking on this thread and thinking “hoo that’s bad one”  massively eats into the the time or pool of energy I have available for being an advocate for good crag behaviour :ang:.

The most recent example’s of someone who’s needlessly drawn a 60cm line of chalk on the rock with what appears to be a loop-the-loop in the middle. It’s not a hate crime to find that ridiculous.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: scragrock on December 29, 2021, 05:22:59 pm
I mostly use this thread as a threat of consequences for certain people I know who I could name and shame if they returned to their reprehensible ways
Mob rule? and a little bit heavy handed maybe?

Fiend, i get your point but perhaps the youth/insta gang don't read the Not so small print in their glossy guide advising on the agreed ethics re chalk.
As for dabs, why do you care if they take the tick? they are cheating themselves Not you. the fact that is posted/published on-line only means its recorded for ALL to see.

i think it diminishes us to mock them for it.

jwi, I approve of your direct but subtle approach and perhaps you are right and it has little affect but i apricate you trying.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wellsy on December 29, 2021, 05:43:57 pm
I mostly use this thread as a threat of consequences for certain people I know who I could name and shame if they returned to their reprehensible ways
Mob rule? and a little bit heavy handed maybe?

Fiend, i get your point but perhaps the youth/insta gang don't read the Not so small print in their glossy guide advising on the agreed ethics re chalk.
As for dabs, why do you care if they take the tick? they are cheating themselves Not you. the fact that is posted/published on-line only means its recorded for ALL to see.

i think it diminishes us to mock them for it.

jwi, I approve of your direct but subtle approach and perhaps you are right and it has little affect but i apricate you trying.

Tbh it's a joke, and taken as such :)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 29, 2021, 06:28:39 pm

Is this thread a tribal " look at them, they are awful. We are great" kind of thing?


Yes.

UK outdoor hobbies are all about tribalism.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on December 29, 2021, 10:33:11 pm
It just feels a lot like bullying to me.

Have you ever been bullied?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: scragrock on December 29, 2021, 11:35:39 pm
It just feels a lot like bullying to me.

Have you ever been bullied?
Yes, yes i have. as a child and as an adult but for my eternal shame i have also bullied.
my hope is i can steer people away from that pain in all its forms.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wood FT on December 30, 2021, 05:36:33 am
Okay, I’m sorry that’s happened, you know the weight of the word then.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on January 29, 2022, 11:29:41 am
It just feels a lot like bullying to me.
Okay. I was thinking about this on one of my many tedious kneehab walks around the moors, and I hope I've remember my counterpoint accurately.

I think there are a few key defining features to bullying:

1. Specific individual targeted
- i.e. it's a person, or a group, targeting one particular individual constantly and relentlessly.

2. No justifiable reason
- i.e. although there might be something about the target that the bullies are picking on, it's not a issue which would generally be regarded as justifying any negative response.

3. Subject matter not promoted by target
- i.e. whatever issue the bullies are picking on / using for justification, whilst it might be something publicly known about the target, it's not something that the target actively seeks to promote nor publicise, they're not seeking to draw attention to it.


With regards to Tickmark Hall Of Shame / Bring Out Your Dabs:

1. Specific individual targeted??
No - it's never relentlessly targeting one person, it's about anyone and everyone who demonstrates the behaviour in question, big or small, famous or irrelevant, one-off or repeat offender. Generally the target isn't even named nor given any context, it's just "a climber who did this".

2. No justifiable reaon??
No - the reasons might be very small in the global scheme of things, but they are actual reasons in terms of negative behaviour (excessive marking of rock with chalk / falsely claiming success on a problem with assistance) that could warrant a negative response (even as gentle as "please brush that off" or "maybe try that without walking along the pads").

3. Subject matter not promoted by target??
No - the behaviour is clearly visible in images / videos that are readily available on public social media, with no attempt to keep them hidden for "friends and family", and often promoted by the poster (and the level of mockery on here is sometimes in direct correlation to how heavily they are promoted).


IF the situation was different....Say the following example: A climber with a particular sketchy style puts a series of unlisted videos of him climbing on youtube, and in most videos he's slapping un-necessarily. Someone digs hard, finds these videos, and each time posts about them, mocking that one individual - then THAT would be more like bullying. Targeting one individual, mocking something that isn't generally negative, and finding stuff that the target isn't trying to show off.


That's my 0:02. Sorry yes it was a long boring walk.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 29, 2022, 11:42:49 am
On that subject, the classic three criteria are hurting someone in a manner which is repetitive, which is intentional and where there is an imbalance of power.

This site has loads of useful information, https://anti-bullyingalliance.org.uk/
including free online training, just register https://learning.anti-bullyingalliance.org.uk/
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 29, 2022, 04:28:05 pm
No one mentioned those huge ticks on floatin, the new v16? Or are they ok on big numbers?

I did actually, but that was shut down.

My point was that fingers point where they find it easy to point - and look for excuses to do so.

What isn't helpful, is that a lot of the shaming is about wanting someone else to feel crap/lower/beneath, and nothing to do with wanting people to be more aware.

A lot of bullying is about excluding people, and Scragrock's comments should be thought about seriously, in my opinion. I do hate tick marks though!

"I understand the frustration but i worry this is simply an echo chamber that in the end achieves little but the ridicule of {i suspect} inexperienced climbers." - which is why (reflecting on Jwi's comments too) - it's good to try to appeal to more experienced/prolific climbers to show the way.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SamT on January 29, 2022, 04:39:39 pm
I don't actually have a huge objection to the odd tick mark here and there, especially on things that are absolutely on someones limit and the hold really hard/awkward to see/hit.  So long as they are brushed off afterwards.  I think they only deserve a place in this thread when they are just totally un-necessary and overly large/blatant

I have a much bigger problem with people chalking footholds for no apparent reason.  Its just like they haven't really thought though the physics of what they're doing and why they're doing it.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Wellsy on January 29, 2022, 04:42:23 pm
Sometimes I put tick marks on things when it's useful, as I reckon we all do, and that's fine as long as you brush em off after

Also sometimes when I am putting a little smudge on say, the foothold I intend to use, I also think of this thread and laugh. A bit of light hearted joshing ain't bullying.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 29, 2022, 10:55:36 pm
Sometimes I put tick marks on things when it's useful, as I reckon we all do, and that's fine as long as you brush em off after

Also sometimes when I am putting a little smudge on say, the foothold I intend to use, I also think of this thread and laugh. A bit of light hearted joshing ain't bullying.

That's how things get re-interpreted though, isn't it? Scragrock makes a really important point.

I think you can post up Donkey Lines ;) and really make it clear how much you find it bloody annoying - and it is, and in a lot of cases just unthoughtful/inconsiderate - but it can very easily become something irrational/tribal, he/she is one of us, this bunch of bells aren't.
That's why those operating at higher levels don't get criticised as much, because we want to be in the Wads' group.

Looking at the photos from the last of Bob Moss, I see it as a symptom of everyone wanting to get out there to grab their FAs - emulating the insta-heros. Unearthing that problem has required removing a lot of moss.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: scragrock on January 30, 2022, 08:17:22 am
Morning Folks
Fiend, i really do appreciate the time and thought you put into things and thanks for the clear definitions. I hope the walks weren't without there upsides and the steep incline back to full fitness shallows quickly and easily.

To make it plain, i said it Felt like bullying but i am open to persuasion on this and i will certainly take the time to fully absorb the points you and others have made.

Some more thoughts-

Perhaps a better way to view it might be to bring out yer own dabs, then show the clean ascent or to show clips of brushing off your own ticks after use.

With this in mind if someone{Niall} were to post up a satirical vid of himself pretending to excessively tick and dab, i would like many of his commentary on climbing culture, laugh and carry on but with a positive reference for self awareness and change in the future.
I also think this might have a larger impact on change in the wider climbing community rather than just a poke at folks behaviour on an out of the way forum in a minority sports website.


 

Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 30, 2022, 09:48:33 am
The BMC Respect the Rock thing might be a suitable vehicle for that, especially if featuring younger rock stars and plastered all over ukc. (The video, not donkey lines).
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Coops_13 on June 10, 2022, 05:19:35 pm
Big donkey(s) at 1:20:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVfYWZVGEbY
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Bradders on July 18, 2022, 06:48:42 am
Saw this block in the dabs thread with someone doing the shite looking traverse under the back of the roof. Had a look at this amazing looking prow though and...

https://vimeo.com/123302767
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Ross Barker on July 18, 2022, 07:03:57 am
Saw this block in the dabs thread with someone doing the shite looking traverse under the back of the roof. Had a look at this amazing looking prow though and...

https://vimeo.com/123302767

He didn't even use half of them!
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Aussiegav on July 18, 2022, 07:17:55 am

He didn't even use half of them!
TBF: they may not have been his.
Awesome problem
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: mrjonathanr on July 18, 2022, 06:18:12 pm
They may not have been, but if you look at his comments below on Vimeo, it’s the video of his first ascent.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Oogachooga on November 13, 2022, 03:33:19 pm
Quote
Can you chalk it for me so I can see it better? ta
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5BHBt-hOm9o/YyBVkJm7c5I/AAAAAAAAAHQ/CWS5H9pdyvAuINtvwvdU6SiOdlOUd4sZwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1663063434612879-0.png)
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Coops_13 on January 04, 2023, 02:11:53 pm
Disgusting evidence of Colorado ticking:
https://youtu.be/xu7V23rJ9qs?t=61
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: AMorris on January 04, 2023, 03:26:05 pm
Quote
Can you chalk it for me so I can see it better? ta
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5BHBt-hOm9o/YyBVkJm7c5I/AAAAAAAAAHQ/CWS5H9pdyvAuINtvwvdU6SiOdlOUd4sZwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1663063434612879-0.png)

To be fair, the porthole has looked like that for 10 years
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Dac on January 04, 2023, 03:49:59 pm
Having seen the Colorado vid is there a man bun / fringe management hall of shame?
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: owensum on January 04, 2023, 05:17:13 pm
Disgusting evidence of Colorado ticking:
https://youtu.be/xu7V23rJ9qs?t=61

We call this Rocky Mountain tick disease
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: Fiend on January 04, 2023, 05:40:21 pm
I quite like that he gets every hold static and casually so the tickmarks aren't even needed.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: SA Chris on January 04, 2023, 07:05:57 pm
I get the feeling they may not have been his.
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: andy popp on April 18, 2023, 06:35:29 pm
No words ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/CrJt5mPuE2q/?fbclid=IwAR2bGKICvUuQB9cXBlznyH6wcHZj_yjePp3ZXf3tMSVSjqN5JWPNJhkguBY
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: CapitalistPunter on April 18, 2023, 06:37:32 pm
No words ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/CrJt5mPuE2q/?fbclid=IwAR2bGKICvUuQB9cXBlznyH6wcHZj_yjePp3ZXf3tMSVSjqN5JWPNJhkguBY

The connies are in
Title: Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
Post by: jwi on April 18, 2023, 06:38:54 pm
I didn't know that Christo and Jeanne-Claude climb
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal