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places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: fatneck on January 24, 2013, 04:07:06 pm

Title: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: fatneck on January 24, 2013, 04:07:06 pm
Been meaning to do this for ages. But inspired by TomTom et al's Twitter plans for an impromptu visit this weekend I thought it was about time...

It's such an amazing area. In fact I reckon if I had to choose only one place to boulder (in the UK) for the rest of my life, it would be here. So many reasons; memories, birthday bashes, my stag do, family holidays, magic days when everything is perfect in the fading light at the end of the day with trashed arms and tips and then to cap it all off a pod of dolphins moves in to the bay and you're just left gobsmacked, the strong possibility of seeing Hen Harriers and Choughs etc. 

Just love the place....

Overview

http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?cate=3&topic=17&item=107 (http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?cate=3&topic=17&item=107)

Location

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1368 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1368)

Parking

There are two parking spots.

The main one is at the y shaped junction of the main road at the top of the track - free.
Second one is at the farm just down the road - honesty box.

Both have good paths that lead to the final (harrowing when wet) decent to the bouldering.

Accommodation

Stayed here loads of times. Basic but good location and always warm.
http://www.abersoch-tanrallt.co.uk/ (http://www.abersoch-tanrallt.co.uk/)

This place is a bit further away but great if there's loads of you.
http://www.cottageguide.co.uk/bryn-yr-eryr/ (http://www.cottageguide.co.uk/bryn-yr-eryr/)

Not been here but good location and looks very nice.
http://www.aberdaronfarmholidays.co.uk/bunkhouse.html (http://www.aberdaronfarmholidays.co.uk/bunkhouse.html)

Guidebooks

Si Panton's North Wales Bouldering covers the area in some detail. However it is out of print and quite out of date due to lots of development. Ysgo is not known as "the crag that keeps on giving" for nothing... You can keep abreast of development at http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/) There have been rumours of a Lleyn Bouldering Guide and also a new version of the NWB guide. Fingers crossed!

It is also covered in Grimer's http://boulderbritain.com/Boulder Britain (http://)

Fatneck's Recommended Problems (off the top of my head list...)

Ysgo Flange (both versions)
Simon's Arete
The Shield
Truth
Really Cool Toys
Higginson Scar
Jones Eliminate
Everything on the Van Guff block
Incredible Shaking Man
SS to Uncle Pete's Arete (or Perrins Crack? Either way the arete to the right of ISM is quality)
Foam Party
Closer
The Ramp
Brian Spray (one day I will finally get this...)
Ysgo Crack (took me 10+ visits to get on this but finally did it on my stag do and it's brill!)
Floppy's Arete
Ugly Women
Howling Hound
Fast Cars
Mutant Child
Popcorn Party
Jawbreaker

The in the next bay you HAVE to at least have a look at Made In Heaven. Fantastic looking problem on an amazing piece of rock. Sadly, I've never been there when it's dry... Not been on th eother stuff (American Rafiki etc) but they look good.

Other/Miscellaneous

Take lots of pads! The landings (with a few exceptions) are generally bad to non-existent and I've always climbed better with a team of people and plenty of pads/spotters. That's not to say you can't go by yourself and have a great day! You just need to choose your problems carefully, drop a grade or two and stay positive. It's a long crawl...

If you like a bit of fishing, some fantastic sport can be had on lures with bass and big wrasse always a possibility along with mackerel etc in summer. The headland to the left (looking out) is Talfarach and home to another host of quality problems (another thread needed?) but is also a fairly top secret fishing mark for Tope (summer) and big Huss and Congers (all year round) as well as BIG pollock....

The actual beach of Porth Ysgo also contains some handy blocs and along with it's nice sandy beach, makes an ideal destination for a family trip if you're on the Lleyn. Just be aware of Weever Fish (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weever). I've had two encounters with these spiny critters and despite not being particularly damaging their venom is painful and will (at least) leave you unable to get a climbing shoe on!

There is officially no surfing to be had anywhere near here...

This has been quickly done whilst at work with no guide books etc so am sure I will have missed some stuff off. Please feel free to add it etc

Links

Owen's Blog (http://skinnydogbouldering.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/technology-training-and-porth-ysgo.html)



A video AndiE made a couple of years ago... (https://vimeo.com/9195370)

Aqua Marine (https://vimeo.com/7315270)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Bubba on January 24, 2013, 05:29:55 pm
This might be a good candidate for turning into a Wiki page once it's been running for a while :)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: andy popp on January 24, 2013, 05:44:57 pm
You're going to hate me Si ... but I've never been  :-[
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: ducko on January 24, 2013, 05:47:50 pm
Good info, I live 40mins away and I've never been.. Disgraceful
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 24, 2013, 06:25:33 pm
Been wanting to go so thanks for the info (rhyme)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Drew on January 24, 2013, 09:17:20 pm
It's such an amazing area. In fact I reckon if I had to choose only one place to boulder (in the UK) for the rest of my life, it would be here....
Just love the place.

I'm with you all the way. Favourite place to climb ever. The climbing makes it fantastic, the area makes it magical, the memories make it special.

I might add a couple to your list too

Fatneck's Recommended Problems (off the top of my head list...)

Ysgo Flange (both versions)
Simon's Arete
The Shield
Truth
Really Cool Toys
Higginson Scar
Jones Eliminate
Everything on the Van Guff block
Incredible Shaking Man
SS to Uncle Pete's Arete (or Perrins Crack? Either way the arete to the right of ISM is quality)
Foam Party
Closer
The Ramp
Brian Spray (one day I will finally get this...)
Ysgo Crack (took me 10+ visits to get on this but finally did it on my stag do and it's brill!)
Floppy's Arete
Ugly Women
Howling Hound
Fast Cars
Mutant Child
Popcorn Party
Jawbreaker
Higginson Scar Right Hand (with plenty of pads)
Beach Boys Arete
Johnny's Slab

The Porth Ysgo Challenge

How to get there
Head to Pwllheli, and head out as Google Maps suggests here (http://goo.gl/maps/IwK1i), i.e. take the main road towards Abersoch, but as you enter Llanbedrog (about 2 minutes after the scary looking, English-hating, expensive petrol station) take the steeply uphill right turn, heading towards Plas yn Rhiw. Enjoy in amazment the smoothness of the roads, and wonder why the roads in Sheffield can't all be like this. After Rhiw, keep your eyes peeled for this black telegraph pole (http://goo.gl/maps/ZxeSS) on the right hand side of the road, indicating your turning. Follow the road to the next junction, and your parking spot is on your left.


Location

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1368 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1368)

Parking

There are two parking spots.

The main one is at the y shaped junction of the main road at the top of the track - free. Added a link to Google Map (http://goo.gl/maps/w1Aw6)
Second one is at the farm just down the road - honesty box.

Both have good paths that lead to the final (harrowing when wet) decent to the bouldering.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 24, 2013, 10:23:10 pm
I've never stayed here but having walked past I reckon the french windows have the best view in Wales if not Britain: http://www.awelonholidaycottage.co.uk/ (http://www.awelonholidaycottage.co.uk/) Its up in the village below the 'grit' crag.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Dolly on January 25, 2013, 12:16:31 am
Looks lovely
What's the "grit"crag ?
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Drew on January 25, 2013, 12:24:01 am
My guess would be the crag on top of the hillside which everyone always sees when driving to Ysgo, which looks very grit-like in it's shapes and features. Like something you'd see on a walk up Kinder. Apparently it's shorter than it looks, chossy, and not as steep as you'd hope.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Probes on January 25, 2013, 01:10:29 am
Ive been up to this crag, if its the obvious one on the hillside to the south as you drive aberdaron. I maybe soloed 10 micro routes up to about hvs/e1 which were pretty good and found a few worthy problems up to about v5/6. I also found a rather good roof problem coming out of a cave/hole, I remember thinking poss v8/9, but couldn't muster enough to do it, I also haven't mustered enough to ever go back up there. All a bit like a poor mans carrock but a crag if you get what I mean  :unsure:
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: fatneck on January 25, 2013, 08:21:21 am
@Andy Popp - outrageous behaviour!
@Ducko - disgraceful indeed!!
@Drew - cheers and thanks, never been sure how to link maps. I did try but obviously not hard enough!
@Bubba - good idea...
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: slackline on January 25, 2013, 10:08:58 am
This might be a good candidate for turning into a Wiki page once it's been running for a while :)

 :agree: It would fit in perfectly here (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/North_Wales)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: SA Chris on January 25, 2013, 10:22:56 am
Been once and loved it, long drive from Aberdeen though. Wish the coastal bouldering round here was as good. Andy Popp and ducko, the crag police will be round shortly to drag your sorry asses over there. Sort it out, this spring (take good skin!).
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: fatneck on January 25, 2013, 10:35:54 am
Have added some info here... (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/North_Wales)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: slackline on January 25, 2013, 10:40:58 am
Have added some info here... (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/North_Wales)

Adding a link to this thread wasn't what I had in mind.

EDIT : I've added your text and formatted it for you.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: fatneck on January 25, 2013, 10:51:46 am
Thanks Slackers  :bow:
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: slackline on January 25, 2013, 11:32:05 am
Not a problem, only took 5 minutes max to format, its writing Wiki pages in the first place that takes time and you did that.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 25, 2013, 11:59:34 am
Ive been up to this crag, if its the obvious one on the hillside to the south as you drive aberdaron. I maybe soloed 10 micro routes up to about hvs/e1 which were pretty good and found a few worthy problems up to about v5/6. I also found a rather good roof problem coming out of a cave/hole, I remember thinking poss v8/9, but couldn't muster enough to do it, I also haven't mustered enough to ever go back up there. All a bit like a poor mans carrock but a crag if you get what I mean  :unsure:

The crag is called Mynydd y Graig. That steep line got done last winter:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=541 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=541)

There is a really good leaning wall (called Graig Fawr) at the far end of the ridge (about 600m from the main crag) that you pass if walking down to Porth Nefoedd. Lovely spot in the summer as it catches the breeze and goes into the shade in the evening; also a lovely spot in the winter as it catches the sun. Some good up lines (some of which are a bit highball if you're on your own and some good traverses for lone visitors.) There's a thin, hard project line right of the big crack (and leading into a thin crack high up) if anybody with steel fingers should be passing. A full traverse of the wall might be possible for the same mutant.

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Martin%27s%20Crack%20569%201_2102.jpg)

Too Hard for George Smith 6C!

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Sunny%20Wall%20569%201_2087.jpg)

Warm Up Wall 5+/6A

The idea for the Lleyn Bouldering guide was ditched; instead all the crags in this area (Porth Ysgo, Trwyn Talfarach, Bytylith, Porth Nefoedd and Mynydd y Graig) will be included in the forthcoming 2nd edition of North Wales Bouldering which will be out this year. There is also another small area close by which I haven't reported yet as there are still some good projects not yet done.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: fatneck on January 25, 2013, 12:34:59 pm
Quote from: Pantontino
The idea for the Lleyn Bouldering guide was ditched; instead all the crags in this area (Porth Ysgo, Trwyn Talfarach, Bytylith, Porth Nefoedd and Mynydd y Graig) will be included in the forthcoming 2nd edition of North Wales Bouldering which will be out this year.

Brilliant stuff Si!

Thanks...
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Probes on January 25, 2013, 01:15:44 pm
Ive been up to this crag, if its the obvious one on the hillside to the south as you drive aberdaron. I maybe soloed 10 micro routes up to about hvs/e1 which were pretty good and found a few worthy problems up to about v5/6. I also found a rather good roof problem coming out of a cave/hole, I remember thinking poss v8/9, but couldn't muster enough to do it, I also haven't mustered enough to ever go back up there. All a bit like a poor mans carrock but a crag if you get what I mean  :unsure:

The crag is called Mynydd y Graig. That steep line got done last winter:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=541 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=541)


Thats the one, looks cracking, better than i remember it, may be i should have gone back up  :slap:
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: SA Chris on January 25, 2013, 01:32:24 pm
At least you can console yourself that your grade estimate wasn't too far out.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 25, 2013, 01:40:01 pm
At least you can console yourself that your grade estimate wasn't too far out.

Probes was probably bang on - remember to always adjust up from a Pete Robins grade if you want a 'real' grade!  ;)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: SA Chris on January 25, 2013, 01:44:51 pm
My point exactly.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Probes on January 25, 2013, 03:00:28 pm
 :lol: Yes damn i keep forgetting about the Cymru conversion coefficient   
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: SA Chris on January 25, 2013, 03:05:02 pm
The Robins conversion coefficient; Pete's proposed V grade x 1.1, then rounded up to next whole number = actual V grade.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Probes on January 25, 2013, 03:35:52 pm
Controversial.... That makes his V11s a...  :blink:

Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Doylo on January 25, 2013, 07:04:21 pm
I still can't believe he gave Isles of wonder 8b :o. The penny must be dropping that he's actually quite good
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Luke Owens on January 09, 2014, 08:34:34 am
Only been to Ysgo once about 2 days after I started climbing, finally heading back this Saturday. Got a good idea of the classics to get on, I get the vibe most of the stuff is slopey on rough holds but are there any crimpy problems worth seeking out 6C-7A+?

Nothing like playing to your strengths to avoid an ego bashing...
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 09:49:09 am
Only been to Ysgo once about 2 days after I started climbing, finally heading back this Saturday. Got a good idea of the classics to get on, I get the vibe most of the stuff is slopey on rough holds but are there any crimpy problems worth seeking out 6C-7A+?

Nothing like playing to your strengths to avoid an ego bashing...

Here's a few:

Simon's Arete (right of Ysgo Flange) 7Aish. Fingery 7Bish sds too.
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=350 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=350)

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/rhino%20horn%20(6)%20280.jpg)

Rhino Horn is actually very cool once you've sussed the sequence. 7A
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=573 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=573)

Dringo Gaeaf is also good, and surprisingly independant. 6C standing with left on spike/harder lower start is possible
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=482 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=482)

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/Winter%20Things%201_0340.jpg)

Simple things/Winter things - 6C/7A techy wall climbing
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=539 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=539)
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=545 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=545)

(http://news.v12outdoor.com/wp-content/uploads/VGCentral600_7985.jpg)

VG Central sds 7A+ - this is excellent and surprisingly tough.
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=95 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=95)
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=432 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=432)

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/Herecomesthesun1%20280_5451.jpg)

Here Comes the Sun sds 7A
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=441 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=441)

Brian Spray 7Aish  slightly contrived, in that it has a specified start, but some (i.e two) great moves. (left hand: black sidepull, right hand: flat edge at same height, i.e. head height)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tommytwotone on January 09, 2014, 09:50:43 am
Very jealous Luke - we had a great weekend over there this time last year.


I can only think of Jawbreaker and Perrin's Crack SDS that I did that fit the bill, but I'm assuming Popcorn Party and Incredible Shaking Man SDS would also do you.


Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Luke Owens on January 09, 2014, 02:02:49 pm
Here's a few:

Simon's Arete (right of Ysgo Flange) 7Aish. Fingery 7Bish sds too.
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=350 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=350)

Rhino Horn is actually very cool once you've sussed the sequence. 7A
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=573 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=573)

Dringo Gaeaf is also good, and surprisingly independant. 6C standing with left on spike/harder lower start is possible
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=482 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=482)

Simple things/Winter things - 6C/7A techy wall climbing
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=539 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=539)
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=545 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=545)

VG Central sds 7A+ - this is excellent and surprisingly tough.
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=95 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=95)
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=432 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=432)

Here Comes the Sun sds 7A
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=441 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=441)

Brian Spray 7Aish  slightly contrived, in that it has a specified start, but some (i.e two) great moves. (left hand: black sidepull, right hand: flat edge at same height, i.e. head height)

 :bow: As always, many thanks Si! They all look great, my ticklist for just one day is now massive... haha. If I manage to do any of the new ones post-guide I'll give you some feedback.

Very jealous Luke - we had a great weekend over there this time last year.

I can only think of Jawbreaker and Perrin's Crack SDS that I did that fit the bill, but I'm assuming Popcorn Party and Incredible Shaking Man SDS would also do you.

Come along if you can make it! That goes for anyone else, more the merrier!

Popcorn Party and TISM sds are top of my ticklist for Ysgo but I think TISM maybe a bit out of my depth as a hard 7A+... going to get on it though!

I've got Stick It! on repeat! :bounce:
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 03:13:01 pm
Good psyche!

TISM sds is very cool but those lacking long arms tend to have a real battle on it - indeed 7B has been suggested.

Personally I find the neighbouring Perrin's Crack sds to be harder.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on January 09, 2014, 03:30:21 pm
On both my Ysgo visits I've been spanked. Like font - it seems when I go there I have to drop the grade I'd aim for by a couple of spots... it all felt haaaarrrrdd... :)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: BenF on January 09, 2014, 03:36:18 pm
Good psyche!

TISM sds is very cool but those lacking long arms tend to have a real battle on it - indeed 7B has been suggested.

Personally I find the neighbouring Perrin's Crack sds to be harder.

I always feel like 7B is fair for TISM sitter but being relatively short, I find Perrin's sitter fine, probably 7A and a great problem now the axle has gone.  Both are utter class though and that's the important thing. The Uncle round to the left is brilliant too but needs plenty of pads.

Tomtom, once you get into Ysgo, get stuff padded and get decent cold conditions, it feels ok.  Some things are even soft... But then again others ain't, so I guess that's just grade spread for you. Andy and I were discussing Ysgo the other day on fb, we should get a trip down there sorted before it warms up.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on January 09, 2014, 03:39:31 pm
Tomtom, once you get into Ysgo, get stuff padded and get decent cold conditions, it feels ok.  Some things are even soft... But then again others ain't, so I guess that's just grade spread for you. Andy and I were discussing Ysgo the other day on fb, we should get a trip down there sorted before it warms up.

Yup - we were discussing whether it was Day trippable from our way.. (probably just)... I'd be up for it anyway..
TT
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 03:43:26 pm
On both my Ysgo visits I've been spanked. Like font - it seems when I go there I have to drop the grade I'd aim for by a couple of spots... it all felt haaaarrrrdd... :)

I guess it does take a bit of getting used to but the main thing is that really good conditions are not as common as you might expect, even in the winter. Best is an overcast, windy day with a dropping temperature. Often in the winter it can be too hot in the sun. Shady problems like Ble Mae Charlie are good bet if you are losing skin in the sun.

Just out of interest - what problems gave you trouble? I only ask because I'm always fishing for guidebook feedback.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on January 09, 2014, 03:52:41 pm
Just out of interest - what problems gave you trouble? I only ask because I'm always fishing for guidebook feedback.

Jawbreaker - I'm miles away from that (maybe not my style - ie its dynamic!)

Higginson Scar - took me ages to do.. (and I think I lanked it somehow!)

Popcorn Party - its a bit of a climbing wall style of problem, but just wore me out.. classic case of work out the sequence then trashed... Love the rock though..

I don't think the gradings that wack - its more like many places it takes a while to get dialed in (calibrated if you like) to the different rock type. I think I have a weakness in that it takes me a while to adjust.. Interesting to hear the connies are pretty fickle.. its always felt like me rather than grease is the issue.. Many of the problems I've tried/done felt like they were based more on power than knack - thats a sweeping generalisation and probably heavily biased by the problems tried - but thats how it felt to me.. (we mostly tried the popular/starred problems from boulder britain and the NW Guide). BUT.. when we went last year others in the party (notably James) had his best day ever (several 7's - flashed a couple) and I seemed to be the only person having real problems getting to grips with things...

Sorry if thats a long rambling answer!
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Lund on January 09, 2014, 03:55:30 pm
I've been to porth ysgo a few times.  I got so spanked last time I had an epic paddy and tore the pages out of my guidebook.

I've kept them though, so when I calm down in a few years I might go back.



Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on January 09, 2014, 03:55:49 pm
I've been to porth ysgo a few times.  I got so spanked last time I had an epic paddy and tore the pages out of my guidebook.

I've kept them though, so when I calm down in a few years I might go back.

:D
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: webbo on January 09, 2014, 04:02:50 pm
I've been to porth ysgo a few times.  I got so spanked last time I had an epic paddy and tore the pages out of my guidebook.

I've kept them though, so when I calm down in a few years I might go back.

A lot of things seem to give you a paddy. Yoga, people stretching at the wall rather than cranking hard, men who want to buff up their chests and now Ysgo.
Have you thought of booking on a Lagerstarfish anger management course. :wall:
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Dolly on January 09, 2014, 04:07:22 pm
Tomtom, once you get into Ysgo, get stuff padded and get decent cold conditions, it feels ok.  Some things are even soft... But then again others ain't, so I guess that's just grade spread for you. Andy and I were discussing Ysgo the other day on fb, we should get a trip down there sorted before it warms up.

Yup - we were discussing whether it was Day trippable from our way.. (probably just)... I'd be up for it anyway..
TT
Me too
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 04:08:30 pm
Just out of interest - what problems gave you trouble? I only ask because I'm always fishing for guidebook feedback.

Jawbreaker - I'm miles away from that (maybe not my style - ie its dynamic!)

Higginson Scar - took me ages to do.. (and I think I lanked it somehow!)

Popcorn Party - its a bit of a climbing wall style of problem, but just wore me out.. classic case of work out the sequence then trashed... Love the rock though..

I don't think the gradings that wack - its more like many places it takes a while to get dialed in (calibrated if you like) to the different rock type. I think I have a weakness in that it takes me a while to adjust.. Interesting to hear the connies are pretty fickle.. its always felt like me rather than grease is the issue.. Many of the problems I've tried/done felt like they were based more on power than knack - thats a sweeping generalisation and probably heavily biased by the problems tried - but thats how it felt to me.. (we mostly tried the popular/starred problems from boulder britain and the NW Guide). BUT.. when we went last year others in the party (notably James) had his best day ever (several 7's - flashed a couple) and I seemed to be the only person having real problems getting to grips with things...

Sorry if thats a long rambling answer!

Jawbreaker is obviously reachy and powerful, but there is also quite a subtle knack to it. I've seen some strong young lads from the wall flummoxed by it. This is going in the guide as 6C+.

Higginson Scar - there is a bit of a knack to the crux. I go into a slight bridge across to a smear to bring my right hand up to the rubbish pinch, then carefully move my left foot onto the starting handhold and use a small side pull out left to get my centre of gravity in the right place before moving up to the good flatty ledge. This is going in the guide as 6B+.

Popcorn Party - this is hard and requires some quite specific hold use. I am considering putting in as 7A+, although it did occur to me that people often try it late in the day when they are tired?

When I said the conditions are fickle - all I meant really is that one of the great things about the Ysgo area venues is that you arrive there mid winter to find sun soaked rock and all is suddenly right with the world, when in actual fact if you are working a line at your limit those days (which are very common) are not usually the best for climbing hard.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Grubes on January 09, 2014, 04:10:46 pm
Yup - we were discussing whether it was Day trippable from our way.. (probably just)... I'd be up for it anyway..
Give me a shout TT if you are going I would definately be up for a return visit

I am also willing to do the driving, dont worry I have upgraded from the knackered fiesta.

Higginson Scar - took me ages to do.. (and I think I lanked it somehow!)
I failed badly on this too really struggled with the first move. felt hard for 6B when I felt I was going strong I flashed TISH stand later in the day also 6B

I grubes and I seemed to be the only people having real problems getting to grips with things...
I was all over the place I found Closer and traverse round the corner nails and did not do either.
Perris crack (stand) felt fine maybe soft at 6A/V3
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 04:16:54 pm
I've been to porth ysgo a few times.  I got so spanked last time I had an epic paddy and tore the pages out of my guidebook.

I've kept them though, so when I calm down in a few years I might go back.

Dare I ask what the specific source of your paddy was? (Just for research purposes of course.)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on January 09, 2014, 04:22:31 pm

Popcorn Party - this is hard and requires some quite specific hold use. I am considering putting in as 7A+, although it did occur to me that people often try it late in the day when they are tired?


The starting positions probably require more definition in the guide.. I know its dependant on the pebble situation, but I've seen vids of folk claiming the 7A tick not including the sit / lying start with the base slots... If its banked up with pebbles the easier higher start probably seems like the full sit.. 7A from the sitting/crouching and 7A+ for the full monty?
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 04:27:05 pm

Popcorn Party - this is hard and requires some quite specific hold use. I am considering putting in as 7A+, although it did occur to me that people often try it late in the day when they are tired?


The starting positions probably require more definition in the guide.. I know its dependant on the pebble situation, but I've seen vids of folk claiming the 7A tick not including the sit / lying start with the base slots... If its banked up with pebbles the easier higher start probably seems like the full sit.. 7A from the sitting/crouching and 7A+ for the full monty?

Yeah, that sounds reasonable (and is roughly what I put in the 2004 guide, albeit with harsher grades). Be interesting to see what state it is in after all these big storms.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on January 09, 2014, 04:29:53 pm
Be interesting to see what state it is in after all these big storms.

:/
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Grubes on January 09, 2014, 04:30:34 pm
and is roughly what I put in the 2004 guide, albeit with harsher grades
I read that as a stand start but that felt about V0/1 depending on which holds you use to start on
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Lund on January 09, 2014, 04:41:09 pm
I've been to porth ysgo a few times.  I got so spanked last time I had an epic paddy and tore the pages out of my guidebook.

I've kept them though, so when I calm down in a few years I might go back.

Dare I ask what the specific source of your paddy was? (Just for research purposes of course.)

Yeah I was totally shit, AGAIN.  ;D

I tore the pages out to stop me going there without really, really, really wanting to.  Because I always end up demoralized, as I find it extremely difficult to send anything harder than about V4.  (My operating grade is about V8.)

I'm think this is because it's always sunny, and because the rock needs some getting used to, and because I find some of the landings intimidating.  Not because all the grades are whack - I'm not suggesting they are wrong for a second.  (Not least because you have to DO a problem to comment on the grade, IMO.)

Things I failed on, and have on multiple attempts, included Tents at Midnight I think.  It all seemed so... improbable.

So I had a good cry, then left, and then tore the pages out.  Then kept them just in case.  I'll be back.


Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tommytwotone on January 09, 2014, 04:53:17 pm
Just out of interest - what problems gave you trouble? I only ask because I'm always fishing for guidebook feedback.

Jawbreaker - I'm miles away from that (maybe not my style - ie its dynamic!)

Higginson Scar - took me ages to do.. (and I think I lanked it somehow!)

Popcorn Party - its a bit of a climbing wall style of problem, but just wore me out.. classic case of work out the sequence then trashed... Love the rock though..

I don't think the gradings that wack - its more like many places it takes a while to get dialed in (calibrated if you like) to the different rock type. I think I have a weakness in that it takes me a while to adjust.. Interesting to hear the connies are pretty fickle.. its always felt like me rather than grease is the issue.. Many of the problems I've tried/done felt like they were based more on power than knack - thats a sweeping generalisation and probably heavily biased by the problems tried - but thats how it felt to me.. (we mostly tried the popular/starred problems from boulder britain and the NW Guide). BUT.. when we went last year others in the party (notably James) had his best day ever (several 7's - flashed a couple) and I seemed to be the only person having real problems getting to grips with things...

Sorry if thats a long rambling answer!

Jawbreaker is obviously reachy and powerful, but there is also quite a subtle knack to it. I've seen some strong young lads from the wall flummoxed by it. This is going in the guide as 6C+.

Higginson Scar - there is a bit of a knack to the crux. I go into a slight bridge across to a smear to bring my right hand up to the rubbish pinch, then carefully move my left foot onto the starting handhold and use a small side pull out left to get my centre of gravity in the right place before moving up to the good flatty ledge. This is going in the guide as 6B+.

Popcorn Party - this is hard and requires some quite specific hold use. I am considering putting in as 7A+, although it did occur to me that people often try it late in the day when they are tired?

When I said the conditions are fickle - all I meant really is that one of the great things about the Ysgo area venues is that you arrive there mid winter to find sun soaked rock and all is suddenly right with the world, when in actual fact if you are working a line at your limit those days (which are very common) are not usually the best for climbing hard.


FWIW I'd say (and this is having only had one and a half dog with 5 dicks intensity days at the place):


Jawbreaker 7a - knacky yes, but powerful...can think of lots of similarly hard 7as I've done (plus I'd love a retro-upgrade!).
Higginson's Scar 6b - probably suited my style but is it really that hard? I flashed it (check me out!) and I don't normally flash 6b, let alone harder.
ISM Sit 7b - didn't do it but saw Ian also struggle and know how strong he is...couldn't help but think it looked every bit value for 7b, especially for the more compact gentleman.









Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Doylo on January 09, 2014, 05:00:46 pm
TISM man was 7b originally was it not?
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 05:01:11 pm
Lund, if its any consolation - lots of people struggle on Tents at Midnight. That first move is fierce unless you've got reasonably long arms.

Last time I was there with a group the consensus was that 7A+ was a fairer grade. It was slightly blocked by an annoying rock for a few years but we managed to shift it - so should be clear now.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 05:03:49 pm
TISM man was 7b originally was it not?

It probably was in the original Northern Soul zines, but (as Dave Parry recently pointed out) there were lots of untested/holiday grades around in those days.

I'd be happy for it to go in as 7B.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Doylo on January 09, 2014, 05:05:49 pm
TISM man was 7b originally was it not?

It probably was in the original Northern Soul zines, but (as Dave Parry recently pointed out) there were lots of untested/holiday grades around in those days.

I'd be happy for it to go in as 7B.

With v9 for Gnasher perhaps the best  :-\
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 05:11:38 pm
FWIW I'd say (and this is having only had one and a half dog with 5 dicks intensity days at the place):

Jawbreaker 7a - knacky yes, but powerful...can think of lots of similarly hard 7as I've done (plus I'd love a retro-upgrade!).
Higginson's Scar 6b - probably suited my style but is it really that hard? I flashed it (check me out!) and I don't normally flash 6b, let alone harder.
ISM Sit 7b - didn't do it but saw Ian also struggle and know how strong he is...couldn't help but think it looked every bit value for 7b, especially for the more compact gentleman.

I was surprised at how much difficulty these young lads had on Jawbreaker - they are really strong on plastic so I thought they'd do it easily. I'll have another look when my knee gets better; there's also a 7B rhand start I need to check out too:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=553 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=553)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 05:13:01 pm
TISM man was 7b originally was it not?

It probably was in the original Northern Soul zines, but (as Dave Parry recently pointed out) there were lots of untested/holiday grades around in those days.

I'd be happy for it to go in as 7B.

With v9 for Gnasher perhaps the best  :-\

Ha, ha! Gnasher is nails (but probably not 7C nails).
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Doylo on January 09, 2014, 05:19:54 pm
That Jawbreaker sitter is supposed to be brilliant. Might have been affected by big rocks tho?
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Fiend on January 09, 2014, 05:21:21 pm
Jawbreaker took me a few goes at the end of a session, I only seem to get 7As that quickly in Font and nowhere else, plus I am a midget, so it can't be 7A.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 05:35:07 pm
Jawbreaker took me a few goes at the end of a session, I only seem to get 7As that quickly in Font and nowhere else, plus I am a midget, so it can't be 7A.

6C+ it is then. Good to know that is not a reach issue - I knew it was all about the 'knack'. If you get the leg clamp just right and your hands positioned well on the hanging start it goes quite sweetly.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: andy popp on January 09, 2014, 05:40:20 pm
Glad to hear Higginson's is getting 6B+. I know I was hungover and climbing like a spanner when I was there last week but it still didn't feel 6B.

One thing that didn't make much sense in the old guide was the description of Ysgo Flange. It says there is a harder r-hand start at V2/3 but the obvious r-hand start (l-hand in obvious sidepull slot) was patently easier than direct into the bottom of the groove (unless you're a giant) and there didn't seem room for another start further right again? I did it with left in slot, felt about V2.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on January 09, 2014, 05:42:29 pm
LEG CLAMP!!!! Now the trade secrets come out! For me it's a full on campus with a tiny bit of toe rubber on a graze or couple of barnacles..

Not sure I can visualise a leg clamp on it.. (And I have plenty of leg to clamp with) :)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: 205Chris on January 09, 2014, 05:44:21 pm
I went over to Ysgo in November for a few of the classics. Jawbreaker SDS is brilliant, although if shorties have a tough time on ISM SDS I imagine they may well find themselves shortchanged on Jawbreaker SDS as well. I'm 6ft and Jawbreaker sit felt about 7B. although a significantly harder proposition than ISM SDS.

If anyone's interested I got some horribly over exposed footage:

Porth Ysgo & The Sheep Pen on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/82820094)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Lund on January 09, 2014, 05:46:42 pm
LEG CLAMP!!!!

FFS.  No wonder my guidebook got maltreated.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 05:48:36 pm
Glad to hear Higginson's is getting 6B+. I know I was hungover and climbing like a spanner when I was there last week but it still didn't feel 6B.

One thing that didn't make much sense in the old guide was the description of Ysgo Flange. It says there is a harder r-hand start at V2/3 but the obvious r-hand start (l-hand in obvious sidepull slot) was patently easier than direct into the bottom of the groove (unless you're a giant) and there didn't seem room for another start further right again? I did it with left in slot, felt about V2.

Personally I would have accepted 6C for HS but others find it steady.

Ysgo Flange must be a height thing - I find the initial pull-on on RH version tricky and insecure.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 05:49:39 pm
LEG CLAMP!!!!

FFS.  No wonder my guidebook got maltreated.

Just to be clear the leg clamp is only in operation at the hanging positon, as soon as you start firing up it pops.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Paul B on January 09, 2014, 05:57:23 pm
Watching that video I think I need to go back on a nice day and re-address my rather miserable outlook on Ysgo from last time I went.

I must be a right miserable b*stard at times.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2014, 05:59:25 pm
I went over to Ysgo in November for a few of the classics. Jawbreaker SDS is brilliant, although if shorties have a tough time on ISM SDS I imagine they may well find themselves shortchanged on Jawbreaker SDS as well. I'm 6ft and Jawbreaker sit felt about 7B. although a significantly harder proposition than ISM SDS.

If anyone's interested I got some horribly over exposed footage:


Jawbreaker sds looks really good - thanks for posting the film. Your sequence on Higg Scar looked completely different to how I do it - mind you, it's well within your grade.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Fiend on January 09, 2014, 06:00:51 pm
There was a leg clamp???

I'm 5'8" +1 AI, it did feel reachy but primarily powerful, I was a lot lighter in those days, it might feel desperate now.

Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Doylo on January 09, 2014, 06:00:59 pm

I must be a right miserable b*stard at times.

You are
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Fiend on January 09, 2014, 06:04:43 pm
But so is dense and we all  :wub: him....
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Falling Down on January 09, 2014, 06:12:30 pm
It's great to read this thread.  I used to go down to Ysgo beach when I was kid all the time with my family, we used to call it "The Lead Mines".  When I started climbing in the early 90's I wandered down there having a vague memory of blocks and was amazed to find this incredible boulder field and climbed some of the easy obvious  lines.  I think it was '93 or '94 so probably around the time that Simon and others rediscovered it.  It was beer towel time and I went back to Sheffield telling Jason, Ben, Jerry, Gav and Nic about this amazing boulder field but no-one believed me... It was only when the stone monkey ad with the axle appeared that the penny dropped.  A lovely spot.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Paul B on January 09, 2014, 06:20:03 pm
It was only when the stone monkey ad with the axle appeared that the penny dropped.  A lovely spot.

I've never seen this, anyone care to locate and scan?
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: nai on January 09, 2014, 06:53:28 pm
I went over to Ysgo in November for a few of the classics. Jawbreaker SDS is brilliant, although if shorties have a tough time on ISM SDS I imagine they may well find themselves shortchanged on Jawbreaker SDS as well. I'm 6ft and Jawbreaker sit felt about 7B. although a significantly harder proposition than ISM SDS.

If anyone's interested I got some horribly over exposed footage:

Porth Ysgo & The Sheep Pen on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/82820094)

I was about to type that ISM wasn't significantly harder for the short but seeing that maybe it is, I had to start with LF up on the hold you cross RF through to. Although there's then a toe-hook that means you can reach the RH up easily enough for the next hold so maybe that balances it out?  But no way could I reach through like that, there was LH slapping up the rib involved but can't quite remember how to eventually gain the shelf.  Felt every bit 7B to me. Want to go back and finish that off so badly.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: richieb on January 09, 2014, 06:57:58 pm
Sorry, don't think I can source a copy but I used to love that advert too. It inspired me both to go to Porth Ysgo and get a stone monkey vest. First place I ever went with a bouldering pad too.
I managed a quick visit just after christmas between the storms. Magic it was.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Doylo on January 09, 2014, 07:43:42 pm
What year was the advert from?
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Doylo on January 09, 2014, 08:15:12 pm
Kaboosh! Defo one of the photos that got me keen for NWB.
(http://i43.tinypic.com/jayl8k.jpg)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Falling Down on January 09, 2014, 08:21:27 pm
That's the ticket.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: richieb on January 09, 2014, 08:25:21 pm
Nice one. I remember now it also got me psyched for a pair of miuras.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: SA Chris on January 09, 2014, 08:25:38 pm
If you are looking for more feedback simon  I only went once and did loads of stuff in the "v3/v4" range in and around the ISM area and the only one that I really had to work hard on was Jones' Eliminate. Took me loads of tries to get it, almost to a point of giving in.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on January 09, 2014, 08:36:20 pm
I went over to Ysgo in November for a few of the classics. Jawbreaker SDS is brilliant, although if shorties have a tough time on ISM SDS I imagine they may well find themselves shortchanged on Jawbreaker SDS as well. I'm 6ft and Jawbreaker sit felt about 7B. although a significantly harder proposition than ISM SDS.

If anyone's interested I got some horribly over exposed footage:

Porth Ysgo & The Sheep Pen on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/82820094)

Great vid Chris..

It made me feel, weak, inadequate and massively inspired all in one :)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: fatneck on January 10, 2014, 11:28:27 am
My 2p worth on grades...

Agree with Mr Popp that the right hand start to Ysgo Flange is easier than the direct, unless you french start ;)

Higg Scar always felt 6b to me but haven't done it for ages! The RH version has to be going up? I've only ever seen John M do it and he's a beast. Richie's had about four sessions on it and can't do it and he's not exactly weak...

Jawbreaker, 6c+ sounds about right to me...

Popcorn Party - fecking nails...

Good to hear Brian Spray going up to 7a, proper nemesis of mine that...

And as an aside, this...

Quote from: Falling Down
I used to go down to Ysgo beach when I was kid all the time with my family, we used to call it "The Lead Mines".  When I started climbing in the early 90's I wandered down there having a vague memory of blocks and was amazed to find this incredible boulder field and climbed some of the easy obvious  lines.

Is almost exactly my experience of "finding" the place albeit a few years later!

Nice one :)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Doylo on January 10, 2014, 11:46:14 am
Think Higg right is a hard 7a. Richie can't perform out the Cave  :jab:
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Monolith on January 10, 2014, 11:59:43 am
and Pex....

Sorry but Richie's had four sessions on Higg Scar RH? I must see this version. Doesn't involve a one arm deadhang does it Ricky?  ;)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: BenF on January 10, 2014, 12:26:25 pm

Higg Scar always felt 6b to me but haven't done it for ages! The RH version has to be going up? I've only ever seen John M do it and he's a beast. Richie's had about four sessions on it and can't do it and he's not exactly weak...

Much as I loathe to give Rich any credit for anything, I thought he did it with me a few years ago on one of those fatneck birthday weekenders.  The one when it snowed on the Saturday. Actually, now I think of about it, maybe it was Holger that did it with me. It was the same day as stuff like The Uncle got put up. Was Rich there? Or did he bail to the cave?

However, back on track... I would probably give the rh version 7a+ on all but the coldest of days. 
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: JohnM on January 10, 2014, 12:56:59 pm
Rich bailed to the cave that day.  It must be harder for the tall transporting their gangly limbs though that small space!  Feels standard V6/7A to me.  Such a great problem but a shame that block is in the way.  I would love to be able to swing around on those lovely slopers a bit more!
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 10, 2014, 01:15:13 pm
I'm pretty sure the block adjacent to Higg Scar RH has shifted over the years. I don't remember it being that close back in the 90s. If you look behind the block there is a noticeable slump in the hillside which could have pushed the block down a bit.

I vote 7A+ and not an easy one either. That sloper heats up like a frying pan in the sun!
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 10, 2014, 01:38:36 pm
The pre-97/98 winter history of Ysgo is interesting. It seems that lots of people (including Fatneck and Falling Down) visited the place.

Jim Perrin said he climbed there quite a bit in the 70s. In one of his columns for Climber he described climbing "that finger crack in the Stone monkey advert", or words to that effect. I know it's not a finger crack (the crack is blind and you climb the holds to the right of it) but it is an obvious stand up line so I don't doubt that he did it and other similar sub 6A lines.

Al Hughes and Paul Harrison also had made visits. Must have been quite gripping without bouldering pads.

It was the Big G, George Smith who told me about the place. He said "it's like a Henry moore sculpture park on a beach." I went looking but the first couple of times failed to find it, such was the vagueness of the description. One time I went to the Mynydd y Graig crag above Rhiw and did a couple of problems, and another time we ended up discovering the bouldering cave at Porthor (Whistling sands).

On the third attempt we found it and I'll never forget walking into that boulder field eyes popping out of my head and realising that we had struck gold. Didn't climb anywhere else for about two months!

Around this time we also checked out Trwyn Talfarach but dismissed it, so blinded by the quality of Ysgo were we.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 10, 2014, 01:45:28 pm
Oh, and good skills Doylo for finding and posting that Stone Monkey advert - you can see the stuck axle at the base of the Perrin's Crack sds. It was Mick Lovatt who eventually moved this - he deserves all our thanks for such sterling crag maintenance work!

If you ever meet Mick down there (and he does hang out there quite a lot as he has a house in Criccieth) ask him to show you his Brian Spray sequence, it's awesome!
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: BenF on January 10, 2014, 03:52:24 pm
Rich bailed to the cave that day.  It must be harder for the tall transporting their gangly limbs though that small space!  Feels standard V6/7A to me.  Such a great problem but a shame that block is in the way.  I would love to be able to swing around on those lovely slopers a bit more!

Oh yeah, now I remember you lot bailed and missed one of the best Ysgo days ever. I'm with you re: swinging on the slopers. Would be amazing if you had all the room to move.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: JohnM on January 10, 2014, 03:57:21 pm
Actually you missed one of the best cave days ever. 
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 10, 2014, 03:58:48 pm
If you are looking for more feedback simon  I only went once and did loads of stuff in the "v3/v4" range in and around the ISM area and the only one that I really had to work hard on was Jones' Eliminate. Took me loads of tries to get it, almost to a point of giving in.

JE does flummox a lot of people, at least at first. It's all about the feet: High left sidepull (rubbish), lower right sidepull; then a surprisingly hard step off the deck onto a left smear (requires quite a bit of tension to hold the shape) then right hooking on a little ear. Slap or, if feeling cocky, static to good hold. I've got this down as 6A+.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: SA Chris on January 10, 2014, 04:26:00 pm
I believe that's what we did eventually (I had Miles P along as my pet local, and he took a few goes), but I think we both used a crucial tiny nubbin for right foot. Can't recall if it was dynamic or static, proably the former for me, the latter for him.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 10, 2014, 04:26:25 pm
Here's Mick Lovatt astounding Chummer and Si jones with his radical method on Brian Spray:

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Brian%20Spray_5818.jpg)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 10, 2014, 04:29:03 pm
I believe that's what we did eventually (I had Miles P along as my pet local, and he took a few goes), but I think we both used a crucial tiny nubbin for right foot. Can't recall if it was dynamic or static, proably the former for me, the latter for him.

That'll be the little ear that I mentioned.

Miles is so strong he could probably lift that boulder above his head.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: SA Chris on January 10, 2014, 04:44:45 pm
Sorry, meant standing on right foot, rather than hooking.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on January 10, 2014, 07:30:22 pm
Brain spray... always looked 'do-able' but always seemed so far... I suspect (based on Pantonio's advice) that its probably a lot easier in good connies!

RE Hig Scar RH bloc - when we were last there chap bouldering around said it had moved quite a bit...
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Richie Crouch on January 10, 2014, 09:10:33 pm
I remember that day well John. Woke up hungover! It was overcast drizzle. drove through snowy hills to the cave. Did some pull-ups then got t the last move on In hell and powered out, then knelt down and dry wretched for a good half a minute, thankfully keeping the previous nights booze and fish & chips down!

Some crazy grades being bandied about.

I like to think I can manage v6 on most rock and resin formats so suggest the following based on ~6-7 ysgo trips:

Ysgo flange, 6b left (proper pull on)/6a right(well easier)
Higginson scar, 6b
Jawbreaker, 6b+
Fast cars, 6c
mutant child, 6c
Brian spray, 6c
Really shit toys ss, 6c+
Foam party, 7a (ok with the beta)
popcorn party slot start, 7a+ for sure
incredible sitter, 7a+
Joystick ss, 7a+/7b (easier than jones' ss)
VG central ss, 7b (pyar desperate)
Truth ss, 7b
mutant child ss, 7b
Jones' eliminate ss, 7b (quite stout this one)
Higginson scar rh, 7c (more sessions than any of the 80+ 7c's I have done in the last 5 years bar Rockatrocity... May need conditions?!)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Luke Owens on January 11, 2014, 10:45:59 pm
Went today, it was absolutely boiling there , couldn't believe it! Did:

Ysgo Flange - Direct start is better, 6B?
Truth - 5+
Higginson Scar - In the baking it sun felt nails, Still think 6B/+ is right though.
Incredible Shaking Man - Does the stand start from the massive ledge usually? I think the boulders have shifted, we had to do the move of the sit start up to it off the big left side pull. Felt 6B+!
Perrins Crack - Very easy 5+?
Here Comes the Sun - 6A+ - This was good for the soul to say the least! Highball, scary and awesome!
Closer - 6A+/B - A great, great problem, awesome campus moves!
The Ysgo Crack - I can't comment on this, I raped it's classic status by not actually climbing it as a crack! I can't jam! Crimped my way up it...

The holds were on fire on Fast Cars, came really close to Jawbreaker though, latched the big move about 4 times and couldn't bump the left hand over to make room for the heel. In good conditions i'm guessing this is probably 6C/+. Impending tide added to the pressure! Skin was screaming and could barely pull on, on Popcorn Party, starting down that end of the beach first next time!

The recent storms have affected a few things; A block is lodged under Popcorn Party making the lie down start a bit awkward but still do-able. The Jawbreaker pit has changed dramaticly. You can actually sit start on the holds of the stand start now and the sit start round the corner is covered in big boulders!

(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1526154_10152196961687269_238029741_n.jpg)
11th January??
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1506999_10152196961037269_1457256422_n.jpg)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 13, 2014, 12:18:19 pm
We went over to Clwt y Fiaren first and I managed to bag a new 7A:

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/Berry%20Head%204%20280%20R0030563.jpg)

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=689 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=689)

Then we went over to the School for Gifted block (just beyond Made in Heaven) and Owen climbed an excellent new 7A+ extension to School for Gifted:

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/Thagomizer%203%20cropped%20280%20R0030604.jpg)

There's a film of it here:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=690 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=690)

Saw a few people walking out later on but missed you Luke. Sounds like a bit of ground works is needed after the storms. The landing below School for Gifted has got better. I spent an hour and half building a patio under this last summer to negate a back breaking block, but the storm has just swept everything out of the way, including the annoying block.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Doylo on January 13, 2014, 12:26:22 pm
Now you've worked out how to upload to Vimeo can we see Pete's 8a?
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 13, 2014, 12:45:32 pm
Now you've worked out how to upload to Vimeo can we see Pete's 8a?

Yes, but not until Chummer does his project.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Luke Owens on January 13, 2014, 07:29:07 pm
We went over to Clwt y Fiaren first and I managed to bag a new 7A:

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/Berry%20Head%204%20280%20R0030563.jpg)

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=689 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=689)

Then we went over to the School for Gifted block (just beyond Made in Heaven) and Owen climbed an excellent new 7A+ extension to School for Gifted:

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/Thagomizer%203%20cropped%20280%20R0030604.jpg)

There's a film of it here:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=690 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=690)

Saw a few people walking out later on but missed you Luke. Sounds like a bit of ground works is needed after the storms. The landing below School for Gifted has got better. I spent an hour and half building a patio under this last summer to negate a back breaking block, but the storm has just swept everything out of the way, including the annoying block.

Nice one Si! Sounds like you guys had a great day too. Drove past you on the way out (we parked in the other car park further down). Lots of people out that day, we all made the right decision!
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 20, 2014, 10:43:13 am
Went back down yesterday to check out the storm damage. Bad news for Richie Crouch, Higginson Scar is lost, perhaps forever!

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/Higg%20Scar%20RH%20R0030711.jpg)

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=692 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=692)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Doylo on January 20, 2014, 10:54:29 am
Might need to get super skinny Crouchy...
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Richie Crouch on January 20, 2014, 11:03:57 am
I'm sure it was about that close when Maskell somehow snaked through the gap!

Sad if it is impossible now, but good news on the lo lo low start by the sound of it :)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 20, 2014, 11:59:10 am
I'm sure it was about that close when Maskell somehow snaked through the gap!

Sad if it is impossible now, but good news on the lo lo low start by the sound of it :)

It's definitely not possible now, at least not for a 'normally shaped' human being. This recent shift has occurred in the last two weeks - when I was there just after new year you could have still done it.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on January 20, 2014, 12:14:57 pm
Thats the RH version of HS though? not the actual problem..?

EDIT just ready your NW blog.. OK it is the  RH problem..
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 20, 2014, 01:02:40 pm
Thats the RH version of HS though? not the actual problem..?

EDIT just ready your NW blog.. OK it is the  RH problem..

Yes, sorry for the confusion, I forgot to type RH.

Thankfully Higginson Scar is unaffected by the recent boulder shifts, although it did occur to me that maybe the boulder is getting steeper, i.e. being pushed over forwards by the land slump at the back?
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on January 20, 2014, 01:06:13 pm
Thats the RH version of HS though? not the actual problem..?

EDIT just ready your NW blog.. OK it is the  RH problem..

Yes, sorry for the confusion, I forgot to type RH.

Thankfully Higginson Scar is unaffected by the recent boulder shifts, although it did occur to me that maybe the boulder is getting steeper, i.e. being pushed over forwards by the land slump at the back?

V5 then ;)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: SA Chris on January 20, 2014, 01:08:02 pm
Time to start monitoring!

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.plaincode.clinometer
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Falling Down on January 20, 2014, 02:02:53 pm
I wonder what Cilan is like.  Dave L sent me a pic of waves breaking over the headland..
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 20, 2014, 05:50:34 pm
I wonder what Cilan is like.  Dave L sent me a pic of waves breaking over the headland..

I would be surprised if there wasn't some fairly major rock falls. It'll be a spooky time heading out on the sea cliffs in the next few months.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 20, 2014, 06:45:13 pm
I wonder what Cilan is like.  Dave L sent me a pic of waves breaking over the headland..

Post it up! Our beach hut has been condemned by the council, instead of being half way up a sand dune it is now overhanging a sand cliff. :-(
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Falling Down on January 20, 2014, 07:27:47 pm
They're on his Twitter feed with some spectacular pics from the Bardsey Obs gang.  Look at those and you can see why Ysgo took a beating...

Sorry to hear your beach but is condemned.  I wonder if the guy who paid all that money for his a few years back is also in the same position?
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 20, 2014, 07:43:15 pm
Yeah there's some pleasing irony in there as the guy who owns the land has been screwing everyone the last few years. Ain't worth so much now, in fact I think the Queen owns most of it!
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Luke Owens on January 09, 2015, 10:56:16 am
Does anyone happen to know what isn't climbable at Porth Ysgo at high tide? More specifically is the Made in Heaven block effected? Cheers
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Doylo on January 09, 2015, 11:00:31 am
Yes it is.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on January 09, 2015, 11:34:37 am
From memory only the blocs at the back are unaffected.. But if there's any wave action they get hit/wet/sprayed too. But I've only been a few times...
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on January 09, 2015, 11:35:00 am
Always the new crag up on the hill above??
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Luke Owens on January 09, 2015, 11:42:35 am
Cheers guys, there's a 4m high this weekend which sounds pretty low... and as the wind is coming from the NW, so I'm guessing the waves shouldn't be bad?

Yes it is.

Rough guess of how long after high it's climable?
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Doylo on January 09, 2015, 11:53:17 am
You'd have to ask Mr P.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: fatneck on January 09, 2015, 02:42:21 pm
There is plenty that is climbable at high tide Luke but as for Made in Heaven - what Doylo said...

FWIW I've never happened upon the MIH block when it wasn't wet (although it's not like I'm there every week more's the pity...)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 09, 2015, 06:10:40 pm
The Born in Gateshead crack start to Made in Heaven often seeps, but the stand up version can normally be done even if there is some seepage as it is less crucial. It is tidal though, although not that much (I'm sure it would be climbable an hour or two after high tide, especially if you have a towel to dry the footholds on the start). The nearby Thagomizer block is really good and is unaffected by the sea unless there is a massive storm. There is loads to do at Ysgo outside of the tidal zone. And as others have said you could always go to Clwt y Fiaren - there's some brilliant problems there:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=697 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=697)
(follow the links at the bottom of the news item for more info.)

This weekend should be good conditions - plenty of wind and falling temperatures from today's high will mean fast drying rocks and no 'sweating/condensation' issues. It should be mint. Sunday looks like being the best day - I'll probably end up down there somewhere on that day.

Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Luke Owens on January 19, 2015, 08:45:02 am
The Born in Gateshead crack start to Made in Heaven often seeps, but the stand up version can normally be done even if there is some seepage as it is less crucial. It is tidal though, although not that much (I'm sure it would be climbable an hour or two after high tide, especially if you have a towel to dry the footholds on the start). The nearby Thagomizer block is really good and is unaffected by the sea unless there is a massive storm. There is loads to do at Ysgo outside of the tidal zone. And as others have said you could always go to Clwt y Fiaren - there's some brilliant problems there:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=697 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=697)
(follow the links at the bottom of the news item for more info.)

This weekend should be good conditions - plenty of wind and falling temperatures from today's high will mean fast drying rocks and no 'sweating/condensation' issues. It should be mint. Sunday looks like being the best day - I'll probably end up down there somewhere on that day.

Cheers Si, really helpful thanks! Porth Nefoedd looks great too, think I'll need someone in the know to give me a tour there soon.

I didn't end up making it to Ysgo that weekend due to a house DIY emergency but went yesterday and had the worst day ever...

On the drive down the weather looked the best I've seen it on the way, when we got to the beach everything was soaked. Even with intermittent sun we waited there for 2 hours and nothing dryed and the odd shower didn't help. There was wind up top but none on the beach so I'm guessing that was the issue.

Any idea on what's the best wind direction/speed to look out for when heading down there next? I need to redeem the 5 hour round trip ASAP  :(

Cheers
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Pantontino on January 19, 2015, 06:09:39 pm
Sorry to hear about the wasted journey.

I guess northerlies aren't so good as they will tend to blow over the top. It must have rained just before you got there as I don't think there was a rising temperature on Saturday (it was certainly cold at my house). I'm genuinely surprised the boulders still remained wet after 2 hours.

I guess it doesn't help to know that Doylo and crew had good conditions the day before at Porth Nefoedd. Or that in all the years I've been bouldering down there I can only recall the odd day when the rock was too wet to climb (I did meet Andy Swann walking out once looking very dismayed given that he'd travelled a significant distance to get there only to find damp rock).

Thinking about the wind direction - a strong onshore south westerly can mess things up too, blowing too much spray into the boulder field.

One other thought: were the rocks around the Mynydd y Graig escarpment (Rhiw) not dry? Clwt y Fiaren for example is well exposed to the wind. We once rescued a sea level session (massive waves and too much spray) by going here.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Doylo on January 19, 2015, 06:33:40 pm
The norm is to drive through torrential rain to find a glorious Lleyn not the other way round .  ;)
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Luke Owens on January 19, 2015, 10:17:23 pm
Sorry to hear about the wasted journey.

I guess northerlies aren't so good as they will tend to blow over the top. It must have rained just before you got there as I don't think there was a rising temperature on Saturday (it was certainly cold at my house). I'm genuinely surprised the boulders still remained wet after 2 hours.

I guess it doesn't help to know that Doylo and crew had good conditions the day before at Porth Nefoedd. Or that in all the years I've been bouldering down there I can only recall the odd day when the rock was too wet to climb (I did meet Andy Swann walking out once looking very dismayed given that he'd travelled a significant distance to get there only to find damp rock).

Thinking about the wind direction - a strong onshore south westerly can mess things up too, blowing too much spray into the boulder field.

One other thought: were the rocks around the Mynydd y Graig escarpment (Rhiw) not dry? Clwt y Fiaren for example is well exposed to the wind. We once rescued a sea level session (massive waves and too much spray) by going here.

I think we were just very unlucky. I've never known anyone not being able to climb anything. Every problem I checked out out was wet, the worst part of it was we actually went to the boulders stayed for a couple of hours, walked back to the car and the sun was shining so much by then it looked promising. We walked back down then it hammered down!

Mynydd y Graig was in my mind but it was one of them thing's "I'm sure it'll dry here soon, let's sit and wait" and as I said by the end of the long wait it was raining...

The norm is to drive through torrential rain to find a glorious Lleyn not the other way round .  ;)

Haha, that's the weird thing. It was very sunny on the Lleyn inland!
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: fatneck on January 20, 2015, 08:47:46 am
If anyone's in the vicinity a broadly Scouse contingent will be hitting the Rhiw hillside on Saturday and Ysgo/Talfarach Sunday in honour of some twat's birthday...  :weakbench:
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Luke Owens on January 20, 2015, 12:29:58 pm
If anyone's in the vicinity a broadly Scouse contingent will be hitting the Rhiw hillside on Saturday and Ysgo/Talfarach Sunday in honour of some twat's birthday...  :weakbench:

I'm keen, I'll be keeping a very close eye on the weather this time though! I was thinking of Ysgo on Saturday, weather looks a bit ropey for Sunday but the forecast will probably be wrong anyway...
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: fatneck on January 21, 2015, 11:06:01 am
Saturday looks great, Sunday less so... Drop me a PM if you want my number Luke.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: scottygillery on February 05, 2015, 01:25:49 pm
Really excited about visiting here tomorrow for the first time. Does anyone have any good knowledge of where we can doss in our van overnight? Cheers!
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Luke Owens on February 05, 2015, 10:31:52 pm
Really excited about visiting here tomorrow for the first time. Does anyone have any good knowledge of where we can doss in our van overnight? Cheers!

Should be great conditions there tomorrow, have fun! As far as dossing I'm not too sure but the parking place by the stream (Not the one on the farm) could be OK? I'm not sure it would cause any problem. Other than that there's plenty of lanes around there.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: fatneck on February 06, 2015, 08:32:58 am
This may be too late but I'd avoid staying at the parking spot over night, seem to remember this caused problems in the past. Also there was a new painted notice on the fence by the parking saying "No Camping" when we were there the other week so this may indicate people have been trying to camp there again recently?

Not very helpful I know... You could try the car park in Llanbedrog?
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: tomtom on February 06, 2015, 08:45:20 am
Are there not loads of surf doss spots just over the hill?
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: scottygillery on February 09, 2015, 06:52:45 am
Thank you for the advice! We stayed about 20mins up the road in a quiet layby. What a great place Porth Ysgo is!! We had an amazing day  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: JK on May 31, 2015, 07:22:07 pm
Can anyone recommend a good campsite in the area? Cheers
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: Lleynkeen on May 31, 2015, 08:33:47 pm
Hi JK - there's a campsite at the Rhiw end of Hell's Mouth beach - cool spot just above the beach and about 5 mins drive to Porth Ysgo parking (even closer to the Clwt y Fiaren, Porth Nefoedd and Talfarach parking areas). You could also camp just outside Aberdaron for better pub access - similar distance beyond Porth Ysgo and there are quite a few campsites. I wouldn't bother booking - just show up and you'll get somewhere. For details about the other areas check out www.northwalesbouldering.com and search back for info.
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: fatneck on May 31, 2015, 09:14:15 pm
We always stay at the Tanrallt Bunkhouse near Abersoch. They also offer decent looking camping...
Title: Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
Post by: JK on June 01, 2015, 09:23:16 am
Great, thanks for the info. Treheli Farm at Rhiw looks good.
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