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the shizzle => the blog pile => Topic started by: comPiler on April 12, 2010, 07:00:02 pm

Title: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: comPiler on April 12, 2010, 07:00:02 pm
Bag of Sticks V8/7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=448)
12 April 2010, 12:00 am

Panton climbs new line in Pass

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Manchester Dogs - more storm damage
Post by: comPiler on April 20, 2010, 01:00:10 am
Manchester Dogs - more storm damage (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=449)
19 April 2010, 12:00 am

Popular Ormes 8A hit again

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: April 2010 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on April 20, 2010, 01:00:06 pm
April 2010 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=450)
20 April 2010, 12:00 am

Kick out the jams!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Do It Again V7/7A+
Post by: comPiler on April 20, 2010, 01:00:06 pm
Do It Again V7/7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=451)
20 April 2010, 12:00 am

Ogwen snippet

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: It's Thin Spread! Not Full Fat! V6/7/7A/+
Post by: comPiler on April 23, 2010, 07:00:07 pm
It's Thin Spread! Not Full Fat! V6/7/7A/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=452)
23 April 2010, 12:00 am

Another slab line at Rhiwlas

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Central Hog Right Hand V7/7A+
Post by: comPiler on April 28, 2010, 07:00:04 pm
Central Hog Right Hand V7/7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=453)
28 April 2010, 12:00 am

New variant on Boss Cuvier block

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Suncharm Ledge
Post by: comPiler on April 29, 2010, 01:00:06 pm
Suncharm Ledge (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=454)
29 April 2010, 12:00 am

New area in Dinorwig Quarries

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Original Problem sds V8/7B
Post by: comPiler on April 30, 2010, 01:00:06 pm
Original Problem sds V8/7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=455)
30 April 2010, 12:00 am

Sitting start added to Barrel Cave problem

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Broken Sam V11/8A
Post by: comPiler on June 15, 2010, 07:10:19 pm
Broken Sam V11/8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=459)
26 May 2010, 12:00 am

Doylo snatches another hard Parisella's link

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Tracks V12/8A+ repeated
Post by: comPiler on June 15, 2010, 07:10:19 pm
The Tracks V12/8A+ repeated (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=461)
27 May 2010, 12:00 am

...and Ed Hamer repeats In Heaven V12/8A+

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Pete's Eats new routes book online!
Post by: comPiler on June 15, 2010, 07:10:19 pm
Pete's Eats new routes book online! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=460)
27 May 2010, 12:00 am

Rock Archivist website

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Crispin's Unfortunate Girdle V7/7A+
Post by: comPiler on June 15, 2010, 07:10:19 pm
Crispin's Unfortunate Girdle V7/7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=462)
28 May 2010, 12:00 am

Awesome grit style traverse at Rhyd Ddu

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: July 2010 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on July 01, 2010, 12:12:11 pm
July 2010 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=463)
1 July 2010, 12:00 am

Rhiwlas 'Main Cliff' and outlying areas

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Clegir Boulders
Post by: comPiler on July 14, 2010, 01:00:03 pm
Clegir Boulders (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=464)
14 July 2010, 12:00 am

New area above Llanberis

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Head Shot V5/6C
Post by: comPiler on August 11, 2010, 01:28:30 pm
Head Shot V5/6C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=465)
20 July 2010, 12:00 am

Crafnant action from CJD

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Marine Drive access warning
Post by: comPiler on August 11, 2010, 01:28:30 pm
Marine Drive access warning (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=466)
28 July 2010, 12:00 am

Please obey the 'one-way' rule

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Ble Mae Charlie? V6/7A
Post by: comPiler on August 11, 2010, 01:28:30 pm
Ble Mae Charlie? V6/7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=467)
10 August 2010, 12:00 am

Ace new slopey thing at Porth Ysgo

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: August Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on September 07, 2010, 11:14:59 am
August Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=469)
31 August 2010, 12:00 am

Riverside fun at the Tubes

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Incredible Bulk V13/8B
Post by: comPiler on September 08, 2010, 01:00:07 pm
The Incredible Bulk V13/8B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=470)
8 September 2010, 12:00 am

New hard test piece in Parisella's

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Tavistock Square V6/7/7A/+
Post by: comPiler on September 17, 2010, 01:00:08 pm
Tavistock Square V6/7/7A/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=471)
17 September 2010, 12:00 am

Excellent new boulder at Ogwen Bank

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Watch me Jumpstart V6/7A
Post by: comPiler on September 21, 2010, 01:00:03 pm
Watch me Jumpstart V6/7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=472)
21 September 2010, 12:00 am

Another Porth Ysgo gem

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Afon Tafolog Boulders
Post by: comPiler on September 21, 2010, 01:00:03 pm
Afon Tafolog Boulders (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=473)
21 September 2010, 12:00 am

New area in Carneddau

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: September Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on September 24, 2010, 01:00:03 pm
September Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=474)
24 September 2010, 12:00 am

Seaside fun at Trwyn y Tal

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: New boulder at Pigeon's Cave
Post by: comPiler on September 24, 2010, 01:00:03 pm
New boulder at Pigeon's Cave (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=475)
24 September 2010, 12:00 am

Problems up to V8/7B

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Special K V11/8A
Post by: comPiler on October 15, 2010, 01:00:02 pm
Special K V11/8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=476)
14 October 2010, 12:00 am

Crafnant boulder field action

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Corridors of Power V11/8A
Post by: comPiler on October 15, 2010, 01:00:03 pm
Corridors of Power V11/8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=477)
15 October 2010, 12:00 am

Nodder cranks out another hard problem

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Riley's Arete V6/7A
Post by: comPiler on October 22, 2010, 01:00:05 pm
Riley's Arete V6/7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=478)
22 October 2010, 12:00 am

Another Crafnant gem

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: November 2010 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on November 03, 2010, 12:00:23 am
November 2010 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=479)
2 November 2010, 12:00 am

Another dolerite wonder

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Dringo Gaeaf V5/6C
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:41 am
Dringo Gaeaf V5/6C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=481)
14 December 2010, 12:00 am

Quality addition to Porth Ysgo

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: December 2010 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:42 am
December 2010 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=480)
14 December 2010, 12:00 am

Winter's here, slopers're getting sticky!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Four new lines at Porth Ysgo
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:42 am
Four new lines at Porth Ysgo (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=482)
30 December 2010, 12:00 am

Owen Hayward strikes again

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: January 2011 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:42 am
January 2011 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=483)
24 January 2011, 12:00 am

Craig Pant Ifan: another over-looked gem

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Talking - Closer V6/7A
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 02:34:42 am
Talking - Closer V6/7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=484)
24 January 2011, 12:00 am

More Porth Ysgo titbits

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: My Own Private Idaho (V Very hard/Font desperate)
Post by: comPiler on January 31, 2011, 06:00:04 pm
My Own Private Idaho (V Very hard/Font desperate) (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=485)
31 January 2011, 12:00 am

Hard project falls at Crafnant boulders

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Flangellation V8/7B
Post by: comPiler on February 01, 2011, 12:00:04 pm
Flangellation V8/7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=486)
1 February 2011, 12:00 am

New traverse at Porth Ysgo

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: February 2011 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on February 17, 2011, 12:00:02 pm
February 2011 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=487)
17 February 2011, 12:00 am

Cadair madness!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: More traversey action at Porth Ysgo
Post by: comPiler on February 18, 2011, 06:00:02 pm
More traversey action at Porth Ysgo (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=488)
18 February 2011, 12:00 am

Two new lines

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Bouldering in Ireland guidebook review
Post by: comPiler on March 01, 2011, 12:00:04 pm
Bouldering in Ireland guidebook review (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=489)
1 March 2011, 12:00 am

Superb new bouldering book arrives

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Reality Check V6/7A
Post by: comPiler on March 07, 2011, 12:00:04 pm
Reality Check V6/7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=490)
7 March 2011, 12:00 am

New line at Craig Nant y Fedw

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Robins gets 2nd ascent of The Crest sds V12/8A+
Post by: comPiler on March 21, 2011, 06:34:39 am
Robins gets 2nd ascent of The Crest sds V12/8A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=491)
12 March 2011, 12:00 am

Desperate line on Bethesda Wave repeated

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Batman V10/7C+
Post by: comPiler on March 21, 2011, 06:34:39 am
Batman V10/7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=493)
14 March 2011, 12:00 am

Little Orme gets another despy problem

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Spinal Tap V11/8A
Post by: comPiler on March 21, 2011, 06:34:39 am
Spinal Tap V11/8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=492)
15 March 2011, 12:00 am

Sam Cattell fires off hard line at Pantymwyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Prisoners of the Sun V9/7C
Post by: comPiler on March 21, 2011, 06:34:39 am
Prisoners of the Sun V9/7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=495)
18 March 2011, 12:00 am

Gem revealed in Pac Man Woods

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Mur Pen Clegir V7/7A+
Post by: comPiler on March 30, 2011, 01:00:04 pm
Mur Pen Clegir V7/7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=496)
30 March 2011, 12:00 am

Superb new area above Cwm y Glo

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Braich Dancing V5/6C
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2011, 07:45:21 am
Braich Dancing V5/6C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=497)
31 March 2011, 12:00 am

New boulder close to Braichmelyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Snorter V6/7A
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2011, 07:45:21 am
The Snorter V6/7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=498)
1 April 2011, 12:00 am

Tricky traverse at new Clegir venue

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Caseg Boulder access issue
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2011, 07:45:21 am
Caseg Boulder access issue (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=499)
1 April 2011, 12:00 am

Call for best behaviour at popular venue

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: April 2011 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on April 29, 2011, 05:18:39 am
April 2011 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=500)
7 April 2011, 12:00 am

Mythical 80s wall finally revealed

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Pork Scratchings sds V8/7B
Post by: comPiler on April 29, 2011, 05:18:39 am
Pork Scratchings sds V8/7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=501)
11 April 2011, 12:00 am

Gav Foster grabs project sitter

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Consultant V7/7A+
Post by: comPiler on April 29, 2011, 05:18:39 am
The Consultant V7/7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=502)
13 April 2011, 12:00 am

Trio of V7s on wall in Parc Dudley

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Barotrauma V8/7B+
Post by: comPiler on April 29, 2011, 05:18:39 am
Barotrauma V8/7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=503)
20 April 2011, 12:00 am

The Clegir renaissance continues

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The God of Small Things V5/6C+
Post by: comPiler on April 29, 2011, 01:00:28 pm
The God of Small Things V5/6C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=505)
29 April 2011, 12:00 am

Gem unearthed in Parc y Llys woods

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: May 2011 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on May 04, 2011, 01:00:05 pm
May 2011 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=506)
4 May 2011, 12:00 am

Mountain side bouldering in Dyffryn Mymbyr

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Spray V11/8A
Post by: comPiler on May 06, 2011, 01:00:09 am
The Spray V11/8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=507)
5 May 2011, 12:00 am

Major new area revealed on the Ormes

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ducko on May 06, 2011, 10:52:17 am
seagull cock! just when i thought i found an area that was undeveloped, visited this spot a few times over past few month and it is really good!
Title: Lou Ferrino - Bonnie link V13/8B
Post by: comPiler on June 01, 2011, 03:27:52 pm
Lou Ferrino - Bonnie link V13/8B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=508)
18 May 2011, 12:00 am

Much sought after link in Parisella's goes down

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Chop Saw No. 2 V9/10/7C/+
Post by: comPiler on June 01, 2011, 03:27:53 pm
Chop Saw No. 2 V9/10/7C/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=509)
26 May 2011, 12:00 am

Prow project on Thumb Boulder falls

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Shauna Coxsey repeats Pilgrim V11/12/8A/+
Post by: comPiler on June 30, 2011, 01:28:37 pm
Shauna Coxsey repeats Pilgrim V11/12/8A/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=510)
6 June 2011, 12:00 am

Hardest female ascent in UK

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: June 2011 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on June 30, 2011, 01:28:37 pm
June 2011 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=511)
10 June 2011, 12:00 am

Creigiau'r Garth boulders finally revealed

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: slackline on June 30, 2011, 01:48:17 pm
Quote from: "North Wales Bouldering")
...the next edition of the North Wales Bouldering guide (to be published in 2012)...[/quote

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Mid Wales coastal venue discovery
Post by: comPiler on August 06, 2011, 07:00:02 pm
Mid Wales coastal venue discovery (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=515)
20 July 2011, 12:00 am

Owen McShane finds bouldering gold

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: July 2011 boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on August 06, 2011, 07:00:02 pm
July 2011 boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=514)
20 July 2011, 12:00 am

Tidal wonders of Llyn Peris

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: 21st Century (Digital Boy) V7/7A+
Post by: comPiler on August 06, 2011, 07:00:02 pm
21st Century (Digital Boy) V7/7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=516)
22 July 2011, 12:00 am

Si Panton adds neat Wavelength line

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Lou Ferrino - Bonnie link V13/8B film
Post by: comPiler on August 06, 2011, 07:00:02 pm
Lou Ferrino - Bonnie link V13/8B film (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=517)
25 July 2011, 12:00 am

Bjarne Sahlén's film of Pete Robins' first ascent

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy_e on August 06, 2011, 07:06:12 pm
Quote from: "North Wales Bouldering")
...the next edition of the North Wales Bouldering guide (to be published in 2012)...[/quote

 :2thumbsup:
You should learn to use the quote function.
Title: Worzel Gunnage V12/8A+
Post by: comPiler on August 20, 2011, 07:00:12 pm
Worzel Gunnage V12/8A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=518)
20 August 2011, 12:00 am

New hard line on Jerry's Roof block

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: August 2011 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on August 23, 2011, 07:00:04 pm
August 2011 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=519)
23 August 2011, 12:00 am

More mountain rock madness!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: September 2011 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on September 29, 2011, 01:00:05 pm
September 2011 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=520)
14 September 2011, 12:00 am

Beautiful stone prompts musings on entropy

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: It's not the years, it's the Mileage V6/7A
Post by: comPiler on September 29, 2011, 01:00:05 pm
It's not the years, it's the Mileage V6/7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=521)
20 September 2011, 12:00 am

Hosey nails highball line in Llanberis Pass

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Guth Mentality V8/7B
Post by: comPiler on September 29, 2011, 01:00:06 pm
Guth Mentality V8/7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=522)
22 September 2011, 12:00 am

New Pantymwyn link

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: October Furnace V7/7A+
Post by: comPiler on September 29, 2011, 01:00:06 pm
October Furnace V7/7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=523)
29 September 2011, 12:00 am

Flowstone wall above Pigeon's Cave

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ducko on September 29, 2011, 08:09:36 pm
nice cruxy problem! hard for the grade!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ziggytang on September 29, 2011, 08:34:16 pm
nice cruxy problem! hard & sharp for the grade!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on September 29, 2011, 09:06:02 pm
 I didn't pull on any sharp holds
Title: Shadow Side V6/7A
Post by: comPiler on September 30, 2011, 07:00:04 pm
Shadow Side V6/7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=524)
30 September 2011, 12:00 am

New additions in Pass from Joe Sterling

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: October 2011 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on October 13, 2011, 01:00:03 pm
October 2011 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=525)
13 October 2011, 12:00 am

Take a shufti at Siabod

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Afon Caseg Gorge
Post by: comPiler on October 18, 2011, 01:00:03 pm
Afon Caseg Gorge (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=526)
18 October 2011, 12:00 am

New micro venue close to Braichmelyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Consolation Prize V8/7B
Post by: comPiler on October 19, 2011, 01:00:04 pm
Consolation Prize V8/7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=527)
19 October 2011, 12:00 am

New developments at Bethesda Wave

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Craig y Llyn boulders
Post by: comPiler on October 29, 2011, 07:00:10 pm
Craig y Llyn boulders (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=528)
29 October 2011, 12:00 am

Awesome new V7/7A+ at roadside venue

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on October 30, 2011, 12:38:21 pm
It never ends....
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on October 31, 2011, 10:08:50 am
It never ends....

Let's hope not, especially if we keep finding problems of this quality.

A contender for the best V7 in North Wales? Perhaps...  :-\
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on October 31, 2011, 10:57:39 am
Just loaded some nice black and white shots from Tony Loxton:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=530 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=530)
Title: Tunnel Vision V5/6C, Twll Mawr
Post by: comPiler on October 31, 2011, 12:00:04 pm
Tunnel Vision V5/6C, Twll Mawr (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=529)
31 October 2011, 12:00 am

Wet weather slate traverse

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: More Craig y Llyn pics
Post by: comPiler on October 31, 2011, 12:00:04 pm
More Craig y Llyn pics (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=530)
31 October 2011, 12:00 am

Nice B/W shots from Tony Loxton

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Paul O Grady Right Hand Start V8/7B+
Post by: comPiler on November 02, 2011, 12:00:29 am
Paul O Grady Right Hand Start V8/7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=531)
1 November 2011, 12:00 am

Powerful new line in Ogwen Valley

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Pete Burns V8/7B+
Post by: comPiler on November 02, 2011, 12:00:06 pm
Pete Burns V8/7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=531)
1 November 2011, 12:00 am

Powerful new line in Ogwen Valley

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ziggytang on November 02, 2011, 02:30:20 pm
Looks siiick!!!
Title: Re: Craig y Llyn boulders
Post by: ianto9 on November 02, 2011, 11:33:54 pm

Awesome new V7/7A+ at roadside venue

It never ends....

Let's hope not, especially if we keep finding problems of this quality.

A contender for the best V7 in North Wales? Perhaps...  :-\
climbed these today really nice ,i thought sad man was harder/trickier all depends on your strengths i reckon.keep up the good work.
Title: Alice High V6/7A
Post by: comPiler on November 11, 2011, 12:00:07 am
Alice High V6/7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=532)
10 November 2011, 12:00 am

New variant at Craig y Llyn boulders

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on November 11, 2011, 08:05:28 am
Thanks to the foothold snappage, I now need to go back and climb all these pretty decent lines again.  Nice one Si.
Title: November 2011 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on November 14, 2011, 06:00:09 pm
November 2011 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=533)
14 November 2011, 12:00 am

Massive limestone sloper at LPT!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ducko on November 15, 2011, 04:47:37 am
So no lines have yet been climbed on this boulder?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 15, 2011, 09:43:19 am
Like many visionaries, Big G is often so overwhelmed by what he sees that he is rendered impotent.

I believe he has done no more than lightly touch the massive sloper.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 15, 2011, 09:48:24 am
Thanks to the foothold snappage, I now need to go back and climb all these pretty decent lines again.  Nice one Si.

It was going dark so I didn't have time to fully investigate all alternative sequences, but it seemed unlikely that anything of a similar standard could be found. The snapped foot hold has left a very small and unpositive blip, and the other foot hold options are further into the steepness and thus will be more powerful to use.

I might get the chance for a visit later on today - if I do I'll report back.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on November 15, 2011, 12:27:54 pm
I presume that the hold that snapped is the previously good but broken looking edge for the left foot?  And not the small edge near the undercuts that you use for the right foot at the start?  If that's gone I don't know what do to, it was crucial for rocking on to in order to cross over with the right hand.  I think with the left foot hold gone it'll still be do-able, just much more intense at the transition from the sitter to the stand-up.

Quality find though Simon, I can't wait to get back on it and attempt to do it again.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 15, 2011, 06:58:23 pm
I presume that the hold that snapped is the previously good but broken looking edge for the left foot?  And not the small edge near the undercuts that you use for the right foot at the start?  If that's gone I don't know what do to, it was crucial for rocking on to in order to cross over with the right hand.  I think with the left foot hold gone it'll still be do-able, just much more intense at the transition from the sitter to the stand-up.

Quality find though Simon, I can't wait to get back on it and attempt to do it again.

Went back today and had a great session with Bethesda James and Andy Godber. Excellent conditions, really dry and clear.

Turns out the snapped foothold (which was the small edge just below the undercut) doesn't make that much difference, at least it didn't for us, but then again we are all about 6ft tall. We used a smeary nubbin down and left - a bit hardder to set up on but seems to work okay once you're on it.

A few more superb links and variants in the bag; James was cranking!

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=534 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=534)

Some major (and I mean 'MAJOR') ascents done elsewhere on the mountain boulders today - I'll do full reports as soon as I've got the pics and all the details.

A perfect autumn bouldering day, let's hope we get some more of these before the winter snow comes...

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on November 15, 2011, 07:57:47 pm
A perfect autumn bouldering day, let's hope we get some more of these before the winter snow comes...



It's not gonna snow this year  :great:
Title: Abnormale V8/7B+
Post by: comPiler on November 16, 2011, 12:00:19 am
Abnormale V8/7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=534)
15 November 2011, 12:00 am

More variants and links at Craig y Llyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Mike Tyson on November 16, 2011, 02:05:41 am
Looks brilliant.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on November 16, 2011, 07:54:40 am
Turns out the snapped foothold (which was the small edge just below the undercut) doesn't make that much difference, at least it didn't for us, but then again we are all about 6ft tall. We used a smeary nubbin down and left - a bit harder to set up on but seems to work okay once you're on it.

Shit, that's gonna make it hard.  I thought it was solid 7a+ previously.  However, if you say there's another one it should still be ok for the crossover with the righthand.

Look forward to hearing more about the other stuff that got done yesterday.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 16, 2011, 09:05:13 am
Turns out the snapped foothold (which was the small edge just below the undercut) doesn't make that much difference, at least it didn't for us, but then again we are all about 6ft tall. We used a smeary nubbin down and left - a bit harder to set up on but seems to work okay once you're on it.

Shit, that's gonna make it hard.  I thought it was solid 7a+ previously.  However, if you say there's another one it should still be ok for the crossover with the righthand.

I agree about the grade - I would have said 7B with the Alice finish but James didn't agree. Andy did say he thought this was only a bit easier to the stylistically similar Cruella in the Crafnant. A few more ascents and I'm sure it'll all become clear.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on November 16, 2011, 09:19:02 am
Cruellas quite a hard 7b
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: nodder on November 16, 2011, 10:26:49 am
Quote
Cruellas quite a hard 7b






Indeed some may say its an easy 7b+...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on November 16, 2011, 11:34:39 am
What Chris and Nodder said.  I'd defo say Cruella is a good chunk harder than VN, although obviously I've not been back to it since Simon broke it....
Title: Freddie Krueger V7/7A+
Post by: comPiler on November 16, 2011, 06:00:05 pm
Freddie Krueger V7/7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=535)
16 November 2011, 12:00 am

Beddgelert Forest addition

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on November 17, 2011, 07:48:50 am
Since you ask... Mick and I repeated Freddie Welsh back in Spring 2010.  We thought 7a ish and certainly made sure we didn't cheat - started correctly and didn't use any extra holds to the ones you talked about on the first ascent.  We came away joking that you (Simon) simply got a bit stuck into an over complicated sequence and missed the obvious more powerful, slappy method as one does sometimes when wokring out a new line. 
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 17, 2011, 11:59:17 am
Since you ask... Mick and I repeated Freddie Welsh back in Spring 2010.  We thought 7a ish and certainly made sure we didn't cheat - started correctly and didn't use any extra holds to the ones you talked about on the first ascent.  We came away joking that you (Simon) simply got a bit stuck into an over complicated sequence and missed the obvious more powerful, slappy method as one does sometimes when wokring out a new line.

I don't know what happened there - admittedly my first two sessions on it were in warm, midgey conditions and the holds were still a quite skiddy, but the day I did it the conditions were mint and it still felt really hard to me. Duff sequence perhaps?

Anyway, I'm still pleased with it as it's a cool problem and a very useful fast drying alternative if the Boss Cuvier block is damp.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on November 17, 2011, 12:12:52 pm
Duff sequence perhaps?

Well we read your description whilst stood in front of the block, thought about the moves then pulled on.  We instantly found that we could cut out half the hand movements you described, so yeah, overcomplicated.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on November 17, 2011, 05:15:38 pm
happens to the best of us mr p
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on November 18, 2011, 07:51:03 am
happens to the best of us mr p

and the worst of us mr d.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: nodder on November 18, 2011, 09:50:43 am
Quote
I don't know what happened there - admittedly my first two sessions on it were in warm, midgey conditions and the holds were still a quite skiddy, but the day I did it the conditions were mint and it still felt really hard to me. Duff sequence perhaps?

You spent years pretty much only doing first ascents anything else are likely to be problems you know well, it destroys the ability to grade.  Thats my excuse anyway...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on November 18, 2011, 02:53:06 pm
Quote
I don't know what happened there - admittedly my first two sessions on it were in warm, midgey conditions and the holds were still a quite skiddy, but the day I did it the conditions were mint and it still felt really hard to me. Duff sequence perhaps?

You spent years pretty much only doing first ascents anything else are likely to be problems you know well, it destroys the ability to grade.  Thats my excuse anyway...

or over inflated egos.....  :tease:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 18, 2011, 03:36:42 pm
or over inflated egos.....  :tease:

Definitely got one of those, how else could I walk tall through the battle of modern life...

Actually, if you get your arse kicked as often as I do it's hard to maintain said ego in any shape at all!

More seriously, I have noticed that I tend to overgrade more often if I'm on my own (like I was with FW). There are several reasons for this:

Competition - I'm likely to try harder if I'm fighting somebody for a first ascent. (I always adopt a strict one on, one off rule. Occasionally it is obvious that one of us has the lead so a tactical pass might be given to save energy for another project line.)

Sequences - duff sequences are more likely to be ditched if you notice how easily your mate does a certain move via a different method.

Two opinions are better than one - the more opinions you have on a grade the more likely it is to be accurate. This particular problem might just not suit you.

Traffic - if you are trying a problem on your own the holds are getting less use and on a new line this can mean that they remain skiddy/scrittley for longer.

Resting - maybe you don't rest long enough between attempts when you are trying a problem on your own?

Spotting/pads - if you are on your own you are likely to be climbing with a greater element of fear because of a lack of pads or an encouraging spotter. It is hard to climb at your absolute limit if you are worried about cracking your skull open.

Ego - it is easy to get carried away with how good/hard/independent a new line is when you are on your own. Your mate is more likely to point out how rubbish/easy/eliminate it really is!

The answer is to climb more with mates - not always possible though. So failing that, knock a grade or two off each lone first ascent.
Title: Escape from Llanberis V10/7C+
Post by: comPiler on November 24, 2011, 12:00:11 pm
Escape from Llanberis V10/7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=536)
24 November 2011, 12:00 am

Fierce line at Crafnant from Joe Sterling

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ducko on November 25, 2011, 03:42:33 am
Are there any decent topos available for crafnant?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on November 25, 2011, 07:52:14 am
No.I'll be keen soon ducko.keen for special k and cruella. Nice to see nwb going hyper again. It feels like news items haven't been as frequent this year
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 25, 2011, 10:00:53 am
No.I'll be keen soon ducko.keen for special k and cruella. Nice to see nwb going hyper again. It feels like news items haven't been as frequent this year

That's because Nodder and CJD were locked away in the Mill for 6 months!

There is also some major stuff that has been kept quiet - don't worry all will be revealed shortly...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ziggytang on November 25, 2011, 11:28:52 am
Are there any decent topos available for crafnant?

I second that! Even a little shitty one would be nice.
Title: Huffy's Gunnage V11/8A
Post by: comPiler on November 28, 2011, 06:00:04 pm
Huffy's Gunnage V11/8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=537)
28 November 2011, 12:00 am

New 'locals' link on Jerry's Roof block

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ianto9 on November 28, 2011, 09:07:35 pm
Are there any decent topos available for crafnant?

I second that! Even a little shitty one would be nice.

Part of the fun finding the problems
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ducko on November 29, 2011, 12:08:28 am
i know where the blocks are but knowing what is what and where things start and finish etc is essential, if i did a problem for example you may start one hand hold wrong or something like that and then your accent isnt valid so its handy to know what your climbing.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 29, 2011, 09:08:37 am
I am working on the 2nd edition of the NW Bouldering guide, but it won't be out until sometime next year.

For now just climb what looks good - most of it is common sense. Specified starting/finishing positions are quite rare; most problems are either standard sitters or standing starts. If not, just imagine you are doing the FA - what would you do to make the best problem?

If you use the search function on NWB.com you can suss out what has and hasn't been done - it's all there, just type in: Crafnant.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/search.asp (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/search.asp)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: JohnM on November 29, 2011, 09:41:32 am
Oooh new bouldering guide!  I better pull my finger out on some projects!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 29, 2011, 04:55:49 pm
Oooh new bouldering guide!  I better pull my finger out on some projects!

There's still one waiting to be done here:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=495 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=495)

7B+/7C anybody?
Title: December 2011 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on December 05, 2011, 06:00:17 pm
December 2011 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=538)
5 December 2011, 12:00 am

The Great North Stone of Bethal

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Dog Star V9/7C, Porth Ysgo
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2011, 12:00:04 pm
Dog Star V9/7C, Porth Ysgo (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=539)
6 December 2011, 12:00 am

Brace of new problems at Porth Ysgo

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on December 06, 2011, 01:44:13 pm
That Simple Things looks nice :)
Title: Font grades adopted for new NWB guide
Post by: comPiler on December 21, 2011, 06:00:03 pm
Font grades adopted for new NWB guide (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=540)
21 December 2011, 12:00 am

New guide heralds shift away from V grades

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Underpants 7B
Post by: comPiler on December 21, 2011, 06:00:03 pm
Underpants 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=541)
21 December 2011, 12:00 am

Steep line above Rhiw

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: Font grades adopted for new NWB guide
Post by: SA Chris on December 21, 2011, 06:10:42 pm
Font grades adopted for new NWB guide (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=540)
21 December 2011, 12:00 am

New guide heralds shift away from V grades


Nails -> coffin.
Title: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 21, 2011, 07:02:42 pm
Can you lads pop down and hammer some sense into my Devonian Brethren?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: jakes on December 22, 2011, 03:05:31 pm
Font grades adopted for new NWB guide (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=540)
21 December 2011, 12:00 am

New guide heralds shift away from V grades

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)



As a shop name 'Font 8A+ outdoor' doesn't quite have the same ring  ;)
Title: The Bottom Billion 7B+
Post by: comPiler on January 03, 2012, 06:00:04 pm
The Bottom Billion 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=542)
3 January 2012, 12:00 am

'New' Ormes mini venue revealed

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Please Drive Slowly 7A
Post by: comPiler on January 03, 2012, 06:00:04 pm
Please Drive Slowly 7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=543)
3 January 2012, 12:00 am

New traverse at Craig Ty Mawr

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Cirque du Soleil 7B+
Post by: comPiler on January 04, 2012, 06:00:04 pm
Cirque du Soleil 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=544)
4 January 2012, 12:00 am

F8a traverse on Wal Heulog

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: granticus on January 04, 2012, 07:30:19 pm
Can you lads pop down and hammer some sense into my Devonian South Devonian Brethren?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy popp on January 04, 2012, 07:46:56 pm
There is also some major stuff that has been kept quiet - don't worry all will be revealed shortly...

Did I miss something or is this still secret?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on January 04, 2012, 08:12:07 pm
There is also some major stuff that has been kept quiet - don't worry all will be revealed shortly...

Did I miss something or is this still secret?

Think that ones on the backburner  ;)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ducko on January 04, 2012, 11:32:55 pm
I'm with andy, get on with it!  ;)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on January 05, 2012, 09:30:14 am
There is also some major stuff that has been kept quiet - don't worry all will be revealed shortly...

Did I miss something or is this still secret?

Sorry Andy, I got distracted by the limestone - blame it on Doylo's charms!

(actually we're off to Ysgo today...)
Title: Knee Deep 7A+
Post by: comPiler on January 06, 2012, 12:00:38 am
Knee Deep 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=545)
5 January 2012, 12:00 am

More quality Porth Ysgo additions

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: January 2012 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on January 06, 2012, 06:00:16 pm
January 2012 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=546)
6 January 2012, 12:00 am

Coastal fringey stuff down south!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Brâncuși's Kiss 7B
Post by: comPiler on January 09, 2012, 12:00:03 pm
Brâncuși's Kiss 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=547)
9 January 2012, 12:00 am

8B Ysgo prow falls

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ducko on January 09, 2012, 09:15:23 pm
Well in noden can't beat a good dyno
Title: Jim'll Fix It! 7B+
Post by: comPiler on January 16, 2012, 12:00:10 pm
Jim'll Fix It! 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=548)
16 January 2012, 12:00 am

Major classic climbed at Porth Ysgo

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Pete's Ogwen Crack 7A!
Post by: comPiler on January 18, 2012, 12:00:20 pm
Pete's Ogwen Crack 7A! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=549)
18 January 2012, 12:00 am

Several quality lines in George's Crack area

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Ruthin Escarpment
Post by: comPiler on January 19, 2012, 06:00:06 pm
Ruthin Escarpment (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=550)
19 January 2012, 12:00 am

New limestone venue developed

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: Ruthin Escarpment
Post by: Teaboy on January 20, 2012, 05:53:28 pm
Ruthin Escarpment (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=550)
19 January 2012, 12:00 am

New limestone venue developed

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

 :great: At frikkin' last! I used to go here during and after school and always thought it had potential. I remember thinking it looked like photos of Crag X I'd seen. One Friday evening I was hitching there from school and got picked up by a Lakeland climbing celed . On the short journey I persuded him not to carry on to the Pass for some bouldering before it got dark but visit this "ace, undeveloped bouldering venue" I was on my way to. Having given him the tour and thus ensured he wouldn't have enough day light left to climb in the Pass I've never seen anyone look so pissed off at being given a golden opportunity at fame and glory, he skulked off fuming!  A mere 24 years later, I'm vindicated - who's sorry now **** *******?  :look:

I guess this is the point where I say I did all of these years ago but, in truth, I never really did anything so I'm delighted its been developed and the bolted lines are as good as they can be given the length.

I also 'discovered' White Goods Crag but always knew that was a bag of.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on January 23, 2012, 11:04:19 am
It is a pretty good little venue, albeit still a little loose in places.  Although there's nothing that hard so far (best for 6B to 7A+), there are some good link ups on nice rock and its biggest positive is that it stays really dry.  It can shake off a rain shower and has very little seepage.  Usefully in the rain shadow of Snowdonia too.
Title: Re: Ruthin Escarpment
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 23, 2012, 11:18:56 am
Ruthin Escarpment (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=550)
19 January 2012, 12:00 am

New limestone venue developed

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Not a bad venue along with the other stuff. Repeated the 7c the other day, which is really just a boulder problem on a rope. Cool moves though
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Falling Down on January 23, 2012, 11:47:58 am
How is it for a solo visit?  The landings look dodgy or is it OK?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: SA Chris on January 23, 2012, 11:56:48 am
Only punters boulder with a harness on :)
Title: More Ruthin action
Post by: comPiler on January 23, 2012, 12:00:05 pm
More Ruthin action (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=551)
23 December 2012, 12:00 am

A few more additions to limestone crag

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on January 23, 2012, 12:11:57 pm
How is it for a solo visit?  The landings look dodgy or is it OK?

Mostly fine now some overly strong people have shifted the blocks.  I'd make the effort to haul two pads up though, just to make the link ups and the higher things feel a bit safer.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on January 23, 2012, 05:33:22 pm
ye fine with two pads
Title: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: tomtom on January 23, 2012, 05:46:22 pm
How is it for a solo visit?  The landings look dodgy or is it OK?

About an hour from me if you fancy checking it out some time FD?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Falling Down on January 23, 2012, 06:03:25 pm
Sounds good Tom...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy popp on January 23, 2012, 06:35:14 pm
I'd be keen, presuming I ever actually get out
Title: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: tomtom on January 23, 2012, 06:48:15 pm
Great. Some weekend in the future?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on January 23, 2012, 06:50:55 pm
Its worth getting on the routes on the main buttress too CCR, Old Gunks grandads pastime, Runner bean and Summertime Blues  are all rebolted 6c+/7as and there is also a new 6c+/7a                   
Title: Yet more Ruthin problems
Post by: comPiler on January 24, 2012, 06:00:08 pm
Yet more Ruthin problems (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=552)
24 January 2012, 12:00 am

3 more links to go at

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Jawbreaker sds 7B
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2012, 12:00:04 pm
Jawbreaker sds 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=553)
30 January 2012, 12:00 am

Brilliant addition to Porth Ysgo roster

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Old Bucaneer 7B+
Post by: comPiler on February 03, 2012, 12:00:07 am
The Old Bucaneer 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=554)
2 February 2012, 12:00 am

Slopey lip line at Elephantitus Cave

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Gritlad on February 18, 2012, 05:36:46 pm
Sorry to drag Craig Y Llyn up again but I went there today and the main block is shamone mint! Just wondering about what line I did today, I started off the obvious holds I think you go into on the VN sds and went up to flatty, from there is a crimpy line out right, abit of magic "gritstone" heels and you get the arete and go up. So is that Alice? pretty sure it is after reading the blog e.t.c but the "low fin at the back of the alcove" bit confused me  :-\
anyway, great place  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on February 22, 2012, 02:55:21 pm
Alice is a left-to-right traverse starting stood on a fin in the back left of the alcove. From here you lean in and swing your feet across, then do the moves up to the flatty, before following the edges/slopers out right to the steep right arete. It can be done from a hanging start on some slopers too, but this is harder.

The best link in my opinion is VN sds into the Alice finish.

Great piece of rock and worth a visit if it's too cold/blowy in the Pass.
Title: Pinch an Inch 7B+
Post by: comPiler on February 25, 2012, 04:44:16 am
Pinch an Inch 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=555)
6 February 2012, 12:00 am

Sheep Pen additions

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: February 2012 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on February 25, 2012, 04:44:16 am
February 2012 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=556)
8 February 2012, 12:00 am

Dyffryn Mymbyr - the promised land

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Trench Fever sds 7C+
Post by: comPiler on February 25, 2012, 04:44:16 am
Trench Fever sds 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=557)
14 February 2012, 12:00 am

Brilliant test piece in Bethesda Wave corridor

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Peniel Pincher sds 7A
Post by: comPiler on February 28, 2012, 12:00:02 pm
Peniel Pincher sds 7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=559)
27 February 2012, 12:00 am

New developments at undocumented Blaenau area

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Broken Trigger 8A+
Post by: comPiler on February 28, 2012, 12:00:02 pm
Broken Trigger 8A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=558)
28 February 2012, 12:00 am

Nodder adds new link to Parisella's

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Anweledig 7C
Post by: comPiler on March 01, 2012, 06:00:12 pm
Anweledig 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=560)
1 March 2012, 12:00 am

Robins on Blaenau rampage

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Bon Atrocity 8B
Post by: comPiler on March 01, 2012, 06:00:12 pm
Bon Atrocity 8B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=561)
1 March 2012, 12:00 am

Bransby climbs hard link in Parisella's

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on March 01, 2012, 07:01:08 pm
That prow thing looks rad. Is it me or has there been an arseton of good stuff being developed in the hills recently??
Title: On Your Marks 7C!
Post by: comPiler on March 05, 2012, 12:00:08 pm
On Your Marks 7C! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=562)
5 March 2012, 12:00 am

4 big lines at Crafnant from Robins

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Monolith on March 05, 2012, 12:54:19 pm
Wondered why O.M.G hadn't been done by anybody yet. Looked quality when I saw it last year and glad to see it's been ticked.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: north_country_boy on March 05, 2012, 04:01:24 pm
Good finds, They look brilliant!  :bow:
Title: Ratt Roof 7B/+
Post by: comPiler on March 07, 2012, 12:00:03 pm
Ratt Roof 7B/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=563)
7 March 2012, 12:00 am

Local lad does good at Crafnant

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on March 07, 2012, 12:47:54 pm
It never ends.... Shame it's all choss n 2ft high
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Greg C on March 07, 2012, 01:01:25 pm
Looks good, nice to see loads of new sends Welshside.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on March 08, 2012, 09:11:08 am
There is a bit of a feeding frenzy going on at the moment (and lots more to come). I'm working hard on the new guide and have decided to give away (almost) all the projects I know of (there are quite a lot!) so that they get included.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: cofe on March 08, 2012, 09:24:47 am
Some of the new stuff looks fantastic. Quite fancy a day up near Lily Savage in a few weeks time.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on March 08, 2012, 10:44:37 am
Some of the new stuff looks fantastic.

It's an optical illusion, it's rubbish really
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on March 08, 2012, 10:53:53 am
Some of the new stuff looks fantastic. Quite fancy a day up near Lily Savage in a few weeks time.

Get yourself to Crafnant Cofe - even Spiderman has got keen for the place recently:

http://news.v12outdoor.com/gallery/ (http://news.v12outdoor.com/gallery/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on March 08, 2012, 10:55:57 am
Some of the new stuff looks fantastic.

It's an optical illusion, it's rubbish really

It won't work Doylo - Cofe has actually bouldered in N Wales, he knows the truth already.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: cofe on March 08, 2012, 11:18:33 am
Some of the new stuff looks fantastic.

it's rubbish really

so's your face
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: cofe on March 08, 2012, 11:23:06 am
Bam!

(http://news.v12outdoor.com/wp-content/uploads/P1000972-773x1024.jpg)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on March 08, 2012, 11:46:03 am
Whereabouts is this Crafnant stuff in relation to that sharp steep crag with all them E2s and E4s on it??
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on March 08, 2012, 11:53:36 am
Bam!

(http://news.v12outdoor.com/wp-content/uploads/P1000972-773x1024.jpg)

Ok that ones good...
Title: Crack House G2
Post by: comPiler on March 08, 2012, 12:00:06 pm
Crack House G2 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=564)
8 March 2012, 12:00 am

Another roof crack test piece from Big G

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: SA Chris on March 08, 2012, 12:02:03 pm
Is dingdong spotting the spotters in that pic?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on March 08, 2012, 12:12:58 pm
Is dingdong spotting the spotters in that pic?

No, he's stealing wallets. 

It's a pretty flat landing btw, although some of the stuff on the tier above (i.e the arete) needs spotter spotters.  And spotters for them.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on March 09, 2012, 10:49:46 am
Ben, I sent you an email with loads of pics the other day but it got bounced back for some reason?

Anyway, I wanted to congratulate you on some of your recent additions to the Ormes.

Went down to Pigeons on Saturday and repeated In the Mix 7A and Rinse it Out 7A+ - I thought these were absolutely superb: perfect rock and great moves!
 
Last thing we also repeated Where's my Hippo - again, what a brilliant problem; surely one of the best limestone 7As in N Wales. Me and Jack were made up with it.
 
You were far too modest when you wrote these up!

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/In%20the%20Mix%201%20600_1837.jpg)

In the Mix 7A

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Hippo%201%20600_1864.jpg)

Where's my Hippo 7A
 
A few weeks before I did Retro Clam down on the Pigeon's Boulders - it was a bit wet so I think I used a different sequence ( I slapped to a rounded pocket on the slab then crossed over back onto the steepness.)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on March 09, 2012, 10:55:55 am
Whereabouts is this Crafnant stuff in relation to that sharp steep crag with all them E2s and E4s on it??

It's the boulder field below the next crag to the left (Craig y Dwr). Dead obvious when you get there. My only advice (apart from not parking on the right at the road head) is to make sure that it has been dry the day before you go.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on March 09, 2012, 12:52:43 pm
Ben, I sent you an email with loads of pics the other day but it got bounced back for some reason?

Anyway, I wanted to congratulate you on some of your recent additions to the Ormes.

Went down to Pigeons on Saturday and repeated In the Mix 7A and Rinse it Out 7A+ - I thought these were absolutely superb: perfect rock and great moves!
 
Last thing we also repeated Where's my Hippo - again, what a brilliant problem; surely one of the best limestone 7As in N Wales. Me and Jack were made up with it.
 
You were far too modest when you wrote these up!
 
A few weeks before I did Retro Clam down on the Pigeon's Boulders - it was a bit wet so I think I used a different sequence ( I slapped to a rounded pocket on the slab then crossed over back onto the steepness.)

I don't know why your email got returned, they normally get through ok don't they?  Try again maybe.

As for all those problems, thank you for your kind feedback!  Retro Clam has quite a few variations, including the one you mention.  There's even an extension traverse worth about 7A+/B, and a direct  version at roughly 7B.  Both a bit contrived but fun.

The In The Mix boulder is amazing.  When the hole below it returns again (ie when the wave moved block finally goes) it'll be back to full awesomeness and quite scary once again.  There are other minor problems nearby, including a cool little prow just above it.   
Title: Bacon Butty Start 7A+
Post by: comPiler on March 13, 2012, 12:00:10 pm
Bacon Butty Start 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=565)
13 March 2012, 12:00 am

New problems at Porth Nefoedd

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Sex Bob-omb 7A+
Post by: comPiler on March 13, 2012, 06:00:13 pm
Sex Bob-omb 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=566)
13 March 2012, 12:00 am

Steep line in Chwarel Manod

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: richieb on March 13, 2012, 07:04:12 pm
Nice one Jack. Great to have this new Blaenau stuff to try next time I'm visiting the in-laws.
Title: Ratt-arete 7A+
Post by: comPiler on March 14, 2012, 12:00:05 pm
Ratt-arete 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=567)
14 March 2012, 12:00 am

Another quality addition to Crafnant boulders

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Richie Crouch on March 14, 2012, 02:42:04 pm
So much choss.. so little time!

Quite excited to go check out some of the above with Benedict as my guide  :wub:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on March 14, 2012, 04:52:27 pm
Oh, you want to climb with me now do you? 

Nothing for you there Rich, its all strong lines and no link ups...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on March 14, 2012, 06:15:15 pm
Tell him to fuck off Ben
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Monolith on March 14, 2012, 06:44:33 pm
so little time!

This better be a sick joke sunbeam If time were a material element, you'd be made of it! Have you changed your nationality to French or Swiss yet by the way? We're starting to consider you a foreigner on these shores. :spank:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on March 15, 2012, 07:54:35 am
Tell him to fuck off Ben

My pleasure Chris.

Fuck off Rich.  Go and waste your life in that goat shit filled cave.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Richie Crouch on March 15, 2012, 05:49:52 pm
Will do boss!

See you there on Saturday judging by the forecast.  :great:
Title: Something, Something, Darkside 7A!
Post by: comPiler on March 15, 2012, 06:00:13 pm
Something, Something, Darkside 7A! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=568)
15 March 2012, 12:00 am

Highball slab below Llanberis bends

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on March 16, 2012, 07:50:28 am
See you there on Saturday judging by the forecast.  :great:

Yup, that is a distinct possibility. :lol:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ksjs on March 16, 2012, 09:21:07 am
It never ends.... Shame it's all choss n 2ft high
You serious Chris? It's not like the recent limestone routes are 3* classics or anything?

To anyone who hasn't been, Paul O'Grady SDS is superb and worth the visit alone (to anyone climbing around the grade). Neil's spotting the spotters as there's a step down at the edge of the landing zone. I wouldn't fancy this without spotters. Had brief play on Lily Savage at end of the day and watched Neil (flash) and Jim do this - looked excellent.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on March 16, 2012, 10:58:57 am
No, I think Chris was taking the piss out of Rich - it's what we do...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ziggytang on March 16, 2012, 11:00:38 am
It never ends.... Shame it's all choss n 2ft high
You serious Chris? It's not like the recent limestone routes are 3* classics or anything?

To anyone who hasn't been, Paul O'Grady SDS is superb and worth the visit alone (to anyone climbing around the grade). Neil's spotting the spotters as there's a step down at the edge of the landing zone. I wouldn't fancy this without spotters. Had brief play on Lily Savage at end of the day and watched Neil (flash) and Jim do this - looked excellent.

It is indeed a quality line with some excellent moves. I was there with three pads and one spotter, that was fine, the landing is good, let's not get carried away.

There's also a wicked 6c+ (guess) around the corner starting on a low shelf and involving some cool heels and long moves. Was really good.
Title: Pantymwyn fire
Post by: comPiler on March 16, 2012, 06:00:08 pm
Pantymwyn fire (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=569)
16 March 2012, 12:00 am

Rock damage in Be Ruthless area

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: March 2012 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on March 23, 2012, 06:00:09 pm
March 2012 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=570)
23 March 2012, 12:00 am

Rhinog grit escarpments unveiled

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Ysgo Magic 7A
Post by: comPiler on March 24, 2012, 12:00:08 pm
Ysgo Magic 7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=571)
24 March 2012, 12:00 am

Brace of new problems from Owen Hayward

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Special J 7C
Post by: comPiler on March 24, 2012, 06:00:20 pm
Special J 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=572)
24 March 2012, 12:00 am

New variant at Crafnant

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Rhino Horn 7A
Post by: comPiler on March 26, 2012, 07:00:03 pm
Rhino Horn 7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=573)
26 March 2012, 12:00 am

More quality Ysgo additions

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on March 27, 2012, 11:02:01 am
Is Rhino Horn about 6 inches to the right of Dringo Gaeaf?  Seems almost like a different sequence on almost the same holds, taking the righthand holds of Dringo with the lefthand.  You seem to start and finish on the same holds anyway.  I guess I better stop commenting and get down there and do it.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on March 27, 2012, 10:25:26 pm
No, I think Chris was taking the piss out of Rich - it's what we do...

No I think north wales bouldering is shit.That's why ive been doing it for 12 years  :P
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on March 28, 2012, 01:09:45 pm
Is Rhino Horn about 6 inches to the right of Dringo Gaeaf?  Seems almost like a different sequence on almost the same holds, taking the righthand holds of Dringo with the lefthand.  You seem to start and finish on the same holds anyway.  I guess I better stop commenting and get down there and do it.

Granted, it does look like a tight line but Owen assures me that it is surprisingly independent.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on March 28, 2012, 03:21:27 pm
Yeah I'm sure Owen is spot on about the line, sorry I must have been in a grump when I wrote that.
Title: New Noise sds 8A+
Post by: comPiler on March 29, 2012, 01:00:11 pm
New Noise sds 8A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=574)
29 March 2012, 12:00 am

CJD gives his Blaenau test piece a proper start

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 29, 2012, 01:42:23 pm
Nice one cjd, that looks brilliant.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on March 29, 2012, 03:59:17 pm
I'm glad he's sorted this out. It gets rid of the confusion and makes a better problem.
Title: Terror Twilight 7C+
Post by: comPiler on April 02, 2012, 07:00:17 pm
Terror Twilight 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=575)
2 April 2012, 12:00 am

Pac Man Woods project falls

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: Something, Something, Darkside 7A!
Post by: Hoseyb on April 03, 2012, 05:15:48 pm
Something, Something, Darkside 7A! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=568)
15 March 2012, 12:00 am

Highball slab below Llanberis bends

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

It was all chalked up Saturday Evening! :2thumbsup: :clap2:

I'm unaccustomed to my problems getting attention :tumble:
Title: Boss Hog 7B
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2012, 01:00:02 pm
Boss Hog 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=576)
4 April 2012, 12:00 am

New link in Beddgelert Forest

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Si's Start - Licking the Lolly Pop 7A+
Post by: comPiler on April 11, 2012, 07:00:08 pm
Si's Start - Licking the Lolly Pop 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=577)
11 April 2012, 12:00 am

A couple more additions to Ruthin

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Braichmelyn Boulder film
Post by: comPiler on April 12, 2012, 07:00:04 pm
Braichmelyn Boulder film (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=578)
12 April 2012, 12:00 am

New bouldering film from Ray Wood

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Rhubarb and Custard 7A!
Post by: comPiler on April 23, 2012, 01:00:06 pm
Rhubarb and Custard 7A! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=579)
17 April 2012, 12:00 am

Impressive highball lines on The Barrel

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Stick Boy Shuffle 7A
Post by: comPiler on April 23, 2012, 01:00:06 pm
The Stick Boy Shuffle 7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=580)
18 April 2012, 12:00 am

New riverside trav near Bethesda

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: April 2012 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on April 23, 2012, 01:00:07 pm
April 2012 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=581)
18 April 2012, 12:00 am

Cofi rock!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Lady of the Lake 7A+
Post by: comPiler on April 26, 2012, 01:00:08 pm
Lady of the Lake 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=582)
26 April 2012, 12:00 am

Cwm Trwsgl dolerite delight

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Go Motion 8A
Post by: comPiler on April 29, 2012, 01:00:10 pm
Go Motion 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=583)
29 April 2012, 12:00 am

Robins grabs another stunner at Crafnant

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Fave-arete 7C
Post by: comPiler on May 08, 2012, 01:00:05 pm
Fave-arete 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=584)
8 May 2012, 12:00 am

New addition to Gallt yr Ogof Boulder

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: May 2012 boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on May 18, 2012, 01:00:07 pm
May 2012 boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=585)
18 May 2012, 12:00 am

Sun drenched quartzite monster

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy_e on May 18, 2012, 01:01:43 pm
Is this Houdini's legendary Mystery Quartz Bloc?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 18, 2012, 05:59:36 pm
Is this Houdini's legendary Mystery Quartz Bloc?

No, that lies in a 'mysterious' inland location, or so I have been lead to believe...
Title: Badgers in the Mist 7C
Post by: comPiler on May 21, 2012, 01:00:04 pm
Badgers in the Mist 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=586)
21 May 2012, 12:00 am

Steep aręte project falls at Craig Pont y Pant

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: Badgers in the Mist 7C
Post by: Doylo on May 21, 2012, 09:33:06 pm
Badgers in the Mist 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=586)
21 May 2012, 12:00 am

Steep aręte project falls at Craig Pont y Pant

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Seemed more like 7c+ than 'soft' 7c to me. Maybe i missed the crucial beta, i couldn't see how to get to that crimp on the left that Joe's got in the pic. Certainly seemed harder than Nazguls
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 22, 2012, 11:25:04 am
I think Joe's 'grade calibration' is a little out - in recent times he has suggested various outrageous downgrades. I reckon he just got stronger but hadn't noticed/or believed it had happened.

Anyway, the link into Nazgul's has got to be the next one to go for - a classic 7C+ presumably?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on May 22, 2012, 11:40:11 am
I think Joe's 'grade calibration' is a little out - in recent times he has suggested various outrageous downgrades. I reckon he just got stronger but hadn't noticed/or believed it had happened.



theres a lot of that going about  ;)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on May 22, 2012, 11:42:15 am



Anyway, the link into Nazgul's has got to be the next one to go for - a classic 7C+ presumably?

It'd be pretty tough getting to the jug!
Title: 20 copies of North Wales Bouldering guide found!
Post by: comPiler on May 24, 2012, 01:00:04 pm
20 copies of North Wales Bouldering guide found! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=587)
24 May 2012, 12:00 am

Last chance to get a copy of classic guide

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 24, 2012, 05:08:34 pm
This really is the last of them - once this batch is gone that will be it!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on May 25, 2012, 07:54:03 am
Shame that, you'd think someone would write a new guide eh Simon?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 25, 2012, 09:06:35 am
Shame that, you'd think someone would write a new guide eh Simon?

Now there's an idea...  ;)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Monolith on May 25, 2012, 11:51:51 am
The Mule got his greasy mitts on my copy the other week during a pissup and 'amended' the history section. I never realised so many Welsh activists were into S&M and sex props. I might have to purchase an original copy for my annals although I just don't know whose account to believe any more!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on May 25, 2012, 12:42:07 pm
I might have to purchase an original copy for my anals

What?  You think Simon really wants a copy of his book being put to that kind of sick, perverted use?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Monolith on May 25, 2012, 12:56:07 pm
Set pieces are too easy these days aren't they champ  ;)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 25, 2012, 01:12:51 pm
Back in the late 80s one of my mates used to sport a distinctive black curly hair and moustache look and one of our mutual friends took it upon himself to draw a cartoon version of said black curly hair + tach onto the head of every climber in his copy of the old Stoney Middleton guide.

Genius!

I suggest everyone tries something similar with a modern guide - assuming you've got a mate with a distinctive enough hair cut or prominent physical feature.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Monolith on May 28, 2012, 01:22:23 pm
I should probably send you a transcript of said history edit Simon. I imagine it'd raise a laugh or two! Only one last copy left on ebay too! An honour for somebody!
Title: The Gringe 7B/+
Post by: comPiler on May 29, 2012, 01:00:04 pm
The Gringe 7B/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=588)
29 May 2012, 12:00 am

Brace of new problems in Beddgelert Forest

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: SA Chris on May 29, 2012, 01:08:22 pm
"Astounding"
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Gritlad on May 29, 2012, 02:28:21 pm
any chance of a topo or something please? good descriptions but nothing beats a topo...

EDIT: or a good new guidebook for that matter  ;)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 29, 2012, 03:23:34 pm
any chance of a topo or something please? good descriptions but nothing beats a topo...

EDIT: or a good new guidebook for that matter  ;)

Sorry gritlad but I'm juggling a lot at the moment so don't have time to make topos for every new boulder. The problems on this block ar very obvious; I doubt you'll have any problems working out what is what.

New guide is in production but I haven't done the Beddgelert section yet.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 29, 2012, 03:25:05 pm
"Astounding"

 :shrug:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Gritlad on May 29, 2012, 03:32:37 pm
fair enough, looking forward to it!
BTW it was me you bumped into a month or 2 back on the groove boulder on that snowy day when you were with dave.  :wave:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: SA Chris on May 29, 2012, 03:40:54 pm
"Astounding"

 :shrug:

Guess you've never read the Gruffalo.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 29, 2012, 04:45:28 pm
"Astounding"

 :shrug:

Guess you've never read the Gruffalo.

Sorry, just being a bit thick - I have read the Gruffalo (obviously, I've got kids!), but it was a long time ago.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 29, 2012, 04:50:57 pm
fair enough, looking forward to it!
BTW it was me you bumped into a month or 2 back on the groove boulder on that snowy day when you were with dave.  :wave:

Oh, I remember - you mean the Utopia block though, no?

I got some good shots of you that day; you might even see your face in the new guide when it comes out.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Gritlad on May 29, 2012, 04:58:22 pm
yeah sorry, thats the one. ah cool  :)
Title: Re: 20 copies of North Wales Bouldering guide found!
Post by: Pantontino on June 01, 2012, 10:21:39 am
20 copies of North Wales Bouldering guide found! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=587)
24 May 2012, 12:00 am

Last chance to get a copy of classic guide

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Final 8 copies have just gone on sale on Ebay this morning.
Title: July 2012 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on July 24, 2012, 07:00:19 pm
July 2012 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=600)
16 July 2012, 12:00 am

Rain splashed glory!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Regulate 7A
Post by: comPiler on July 24, 2012, 07:00:19 pm
Regulate 7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=602)
22 July 2012, 12:00 am

Brace of new problems on Drive By wall

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Last Drink 8A+
Post by: comPiler on July 24, 2012, 07:00:19 pm
Last Drink 8A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=601)
23 July 2012, 12:00 am

Doylo climbs classic Pill Box link

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Limehouse 7C
Post by: comPiler on July 24, 2012, 07:00:19 pm
Limehouse 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=603)
24 July 2012, 12:00 am

Pigeon Cave Lightning Strike project falls

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: New problems at Maeshafn
Post by: comPiler on July 27, 2012, 01:00:08 pm
New problems at Maeshafn (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=604)
27 July 2012, 12:00 am

Hidden Buttress developed

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Isles of Wonder 8B
Post by: comPiler on August 13, 2012, 01:00:07 pm
Isles of Wonder 8B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=605)
13 August 2012, 12:00 am

Mianog prow project falls to Robins

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on August 13, 2012, 09:11:01 pm
Think Huffy might have done Nut Stash years ago
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: turnipturned on August 13, 2012, 10:04:41 pm
Haha nut stash remember having that conversation with Robins!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on August 17, 2012, 12:04:20 pm
Think Huffy might have done Nut Stash years ago

Wouldn't surprise me - it is very obvious.
Title: The Last Stand 8A+
Post by: comPiler on August 21, 2012, 07:00:19 pm
The Last Stand 8A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=606)
21 August 2012, 12:00 am

New Parisella's Cave addition

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: August 2012 boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on August 24, 2012, 01:00:04 pm
August 2012 boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=607)
24 August 2012, 12:00 am

Way, way Beyond the Dome

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy popp on August 24, 2012, 01:32:07 pm
Simon, re: Big G's latest find, I did a rather nice arete (sds V2ish, excellent clean rock) on a block in the screes immediately under Clogwyn y Ddysgl last summer. I wonder if its the highest problem in the Pass?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Richie Crouch on August 24, 2012, 02:18:04 pm
Tempted to pop the wavelength hillside tomorrow but the forecast was pretty sketchy last time I checked!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on August 24, 2012, 03:16:30 pm
Simon, re: Big G's latest find, I did a rather nice arete (sds V2ish, excellent clean rock) on a block in the screes immediately under Clogwyn y Ddysgl last summer. I wonder if its the highest problem in the Pass?

I know of no higher recorded problem in the Pass - I don't suppose you have a pic?

(George will be made up that someone else has been 'beavering in obscurity'.)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on August 24, 2012, 03:18:58 pm
Tempted to pop the wavelength hillside tomorrow but the forecast was pretty sketchy last time I checked!

Possibility of a light shower in the hills tomorrow Rich. Sunday looking better.

Consequently I'll be out bouldering tonight and Sunday!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy popp on August 25, 2012, 07:39:38 am
Simon, re: Big G's latest find, I did a rather nice arete (sds V2ish, excellent clean rock) on a block in the screes immediately under Clogwyn y Ddysgl last summer. I wonder if its the highest problem in the Pass?

I know of no higher recorded problem in the Pass - I don't suppose you have a pic?

(George will be made up that someone else has been 'beavering in obscurity'.)

You suppose right. Given that distinction, perhaps it deserves a name; I think it has to be 'Death Zone'.
Title: Paper Birds 8A+
Post by: comPiler on September 04, 2012, 01:00:06 pm
Paper Birds 8A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=608)
4 September 2012, 12:00 am

Dan Knight bags despy line at The Gop

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Desperado SitPosition 7C
Post by: comPiler on September 07, 2012, 01:00:08 pm
Desperado SitPosition 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=609)
7 September 2012, 12:00 am

Couple of new links at Pantymwyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Isle of Wonder film released
Post by: comPiler on September 07, 2012, 01:00:09 pm
Isle of Wonder film released (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=610)
7 September 2012, 12:00 am

FA film from 2Rays

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Brace of new lines on Crispin's Unfortunate Girdle
Post by: comPiler on September 10, 2012, 01:00:12 pm
Brace of new lines on Crispin's Unfortunate Girdle (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=611)
10 September 2012, 12:00 am

Top quality dolerite action at Rhyd Ddu

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: casa on September 10, 2012, 01:36:15 pm
Really enjoyed that Isle of Wonder clip. Nice moody music too. Good work all!
Title: The Phonz 7B+
Post by: comPiler on September 12, 2012, 01:00:07 pm
The Phonz 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=612)
12 September 2012, 12:00 am

New find in Pac Man Woods

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Yokely Dokely 7B/+
Post by: comPiler on September 24, 2012, 07:00:06 pm
Yokely Dokely 7B/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=613)
24 September 2012, 12:00 am

Tough addition to Cwm Trwsgl

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Thonz 7B+
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 01:00:03 pm
Thonz 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=612)
12 September 2012, 12:00 am

New find in Pac Man Woods

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: This Parade 8A+ 2nd ascent
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 01:00:03 pm
This Parade 8A+ 2nd ascent (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=614)
25 September 2012, 12:00 am

Liam Fyfe nails three grade 8s in a day

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Lou's Crucial Service 8A+/B
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2012, 01:00:03 pm
Lou's Crucial Service 8A+/B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=615)
25 September 2012, 12:00 am

New variation start in Parisella's

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: September 2012 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on September 30, 2012, 01:00:07 pm
September 2012 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=616)
30 September 2012, 12:00 am

The Telegraph Wall

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Pair of 7As at Porth Ysgo
Post by: comPiler on October 02, 2012, 01:00:08 pm
Pair of 7As at Porth Ysgo (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=617)
2 October 2012, 12:00 am

Good additions near Made in Heaven block

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Hatchatrocity 8A
Post by: comPiler on October 19, 2012, 01:00:04 pm
Hatchatrocity 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=618)
19 October 2012, 12:00 am

Extended start to Rock Atrocity

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: October 2012 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on October 19, 2012, 07:00:08 pm
October 2012 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=619)
19 October 2012, 12:00 am

Roadside mystery hidden by foliage

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Black Streak 7B
Post by: comPiler on October 23, 2012, 01:00:10 pm
Black Streak 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=620)
23 October 2012, 12:00 am

Another good addition to Ysgo Far Side block

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Hatch Life 8A
Post by: comPiler on November 01, 2012, 06:00:07 pm
Hatch Life 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=621)
1 November 2012, 12:00 am

Doylo grabs obvious link in Parisella's

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Shrek 7A+/B
Post by: comPiler on November 01, 2012, 06:00:07 pm
Shrek 7A+/B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=622)
1 November 2012, 12:00 am

New line at Sheep Pen Boulders

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: November 2012 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on November 09, 2012, 12:00:34 am
November 2012 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=623)
8 November 2012, 12:00 am

Slopers ahoy!!!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Leaning Crack Direct 7A+!
Post by: comPiler on November 12, 2012, 12:00:03 pm
Leaning Crack Direct 7A+! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=624)
11 November 2012, 12:00 am

Highball slab at Caseg Fraith

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Les McQueen 7C!
Post by: comPiler on November 12, 2012, 12:00:03 pm
Les McQueen 7C! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=625)
12 November 2012, 12:00 am

Ogwen Valley highball project falls to Robins

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: r-man on November 12, 2012, 12:05:01 pm
(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/Les%20McQueen%205%20280_6764.jpg)

Looks great!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 12, 2012, 12:34:04 pm
The rock is perfect too. A proper classic.

It might look like the pads are getting soaked but they were dry underneath.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2012, 12:58:51 pm
Looks like it could do with some SA style groundwork.

http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/ (http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

Could then be renamed Craig Nant Beach
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Wood FT on November 12, 2012, 02:39:48 pm
Looks great!

+1, these new welsh highballs look really good
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on November 12, 2012, 03:36:24 pm
Patio building is a top warm-up  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2012, 03:50:05 pm
If you like patioing, have I got a project for you....
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: slackline on November 12, 2012, 03:53:02 pm
If you like patioing, have I got a project for you....

(http://notanchored.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/20120829-010320.jpg)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy_e on November 12, 2012, 03:55:21 pm
I was about to post "Will you spot him up the drain-pipe after he's finished?" but slackers beat me to it more literally.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on November 12, 2012, 05:38:54 pm
Someone told me all the bouldering was 2ft high in North Wales? :shrug:
Title: Unnamed 7B/+!
Post by: comPiler on November 12, 2012, 06:00:05 pm
Unnamed 7B/+! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=626)
12 November 2012, 12:00 am

Another stunning Ogwen highball

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 13, 2012, 09:11:17 am
Someone told me all the bouldering was 2ft high in North Wales? :shrug:

I heard it was all just 30 move eliminate link ups and bum dynos. Maybe it was the same guy that was talking to you?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: nodder on November 13, 2012, 09:25:07 am

Quote
Someone told me all the bouldering was 2ft high in North Wales?


Quote
I heard it was all just 30 move eliminate link ups and bum dynos. Maybe it was the same guy that was talking to you?

Either of those sound better than 40 foot solos 
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: SA Chris on November 13, 2012, 09:48:06 am
If you like patioing, have I got a project for you....

(http://notanchored.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/20120829-010320.jpg)

No, bouldering project bellends. Great line, shocking landing, needs filling in with a good few boulders.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy_e on November 13, 2012, 09:52:45 am
Well, I thought you were wanting to do some home improvements in your new gaffe.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: SA Chris on November 13, 2012, 09:55:08 am
What new gaffe? :(

Homeless as Paul Simon come 3 December.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: petejh on November 13, 2012, 11:25:42 am
Quote
Someone told me all the bouldering was 2ft high in North Wales?

Quote
I heard it was all just 30 move eliminate link ups and bum dynos. Maybe it was the same guy that was talking to you?

Either of those sound better than 40 foot solos

..or 9000m walk-ins.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on November 13, 2012, 12:40:56 pm
We need to start giving all the routes bouldering grades and tone down those embarrassing link ups
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: petejh on November 13, 2012, 12:51:08 pm
Yeah imagine someone doing that..
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: r-man on November 13, 2012, 01:36:35 pm
We need to start giving all the linkups route grades and stop people taking big grades without doing any proper hard moves

That's better!

 :lol:



Don't worry, if I ever put any time into the cave, I'll the biggest grades I can get...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 13, 2012, 03:19:41 pm
If only an unsung dark horse would come and rescue Welsh bouldering from its navel gazing failure...if only we had:

(http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT_5iGy0mnpQAIU8kcTkdLyhOYJbfuzP63idWKDwX2G-3xk2rf2QP8kTRQe5A)

Then everything would be alright...wouldn't it.

Wouldn't it?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on November 13, 2012, 04:11:44 pm
We need to start giving all the linkups route grades and stop people taking big grades without doing any proper hard moves

That's better!

 :lol:
 



Don't worry, if I ever put any time into the cave, I'll the biggest grades I can get...

That's a good thing, it winds certain strong people up
Title: The Rock's The Star 7B/+!
Post by: comPiler on November 15, 2012, 12:00:20 am
The Rock's The Star 7B/+! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=626)
12 November 2012, 12:00 am

Another stunning Ogwen highball

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 16, 2012, 06:25:38 pm
Pic from today of Caff getting second ascent of The Rock's The Star. Pete did it again too and both agreed that it was actually 7B+!

(http://news.v12outdoor.com/wp-content/uploads/The-Rocks-The-Star-5-600_6840.jpg)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on November 16, 2012, 06:35:07 pm
If Pete Robins gives something a slash grade it's never the lower option.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 16, 2012, 06:52:24 pm
They were both falling off it when I arrived so any talk of lowly 7Bs went right out the window.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: petejh on November 16, 2012, 09:49:41 pm
I notice the crimp on the higher-ball to the right is chalked...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 19, 2012, 09:28:04 am
I notice the crimp on the higher-ball to the right is chalked...

It's about 7B/+ to get to there, but what lies above is hard, very hard!
Title: Unlocked 7A+!
Post by: comPiler on November 19, 2012, 12:00:10 pm
Unlocked 7A+! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=624)
11 November 2012, 12:00 am

Highball slab at Caseg Fraith

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Trio of new 8As at The Gop
Post by: comPiler on November 19, 2012, 12:00:10 pm
Trio of new 8As at The Gop (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=627)
19 November 2012, 12:00 am

Dan Knight tears it up

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Tramps Tea Party 8A
Post by: comPiler on November 21, 2012, 06:00:07 pm
Tramps Tea Party 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=628)
21 November 2012, 12:00 am

Doylo nails major project line on the Sugar Lump

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: petejh on November 22, 2012, 06:40:37 pm
If only an unsung dark horse would come and rescue Welsh bouldering from its navel gazing failure...if only we had:

(http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT_5iGy0mnpQAIU8kcTkdLyhOYJbfuzP63idWKDwX2G-3xk2rf2QP8kTRQe5A)

Then everything would be alright...wouldn't it.

Wouldn't it?

He's arrived but his horse got held up at customs! (last seen rescuing children from floods on Llanberis high street)
(http://i.imgur.com/MYCfy.jpg)
 
Thanks due to Slackline for capturing that.



Title: Momentary Grip 8A
Post by: comPiler on November 26, 2012, 12:00:03 pm
Momentary Grip 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=629)
26 November 2012, 12:00 am

Robins bags Gallt yr Ogof prow line

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on November 26, 2012, 03:55:27 pm
We're only 50 8's behind the peak, come on the Ogwen!!
Title: Momentary Grip 7C+/8A
Post by: comPiler on November 28, 2012, 12:00:06 pm
Momentary Grip 7C+/8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=629)
26 November 2012, 12:00 am

Robins bags Gallt yr Ogof prow line

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Wal Golygfa 7A/+
Post by: comPiler on November 28, 2012, 12:00:06 pm
Wal Golygfa 7A/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=630)
28 November 2012, 12:00 am

Neat addition to Trwyn Talfarach

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Greg C on November 28, 2012, 12:17:53 pm
This Momentary Grip, is it 8A or what? You Welshy's and your slash grades!  ;)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: slackline on November 28, 2012, 12:29:34 pm
This Momentary Grip, is it 8A or what? You Welshy's and your slash grades!  ;)

7B (maybe, see update on NWB).
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on November 28, 2012, 12:30:44 pm
It was 8a 2 days ago wasn't it. It'll be Pete thinking he can't climb 8a in 2 sessions  ::) same old story
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Greg C on November 28, 2012, 01:53:31 pm
It was 8a 2 days ago wasn't it. It'll be Pete thinking he can't climb 8a in 2 sessions  ::) same old story

Going on past form, I'd say he probably can climb 8A in a session.  ::)

This Momentary Grip, is it 8A or what? You Welshy's and your slash grades!  ;)

7B (maybe, see update on NWB).

Yeah I saw that. It was from low or something at 7B.... but how low did he go!?  :-\
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy_e on November 28, 2012, 01:55:57 pm
Climb it from various low starts and see which one feels about 7B, then you'll know! Looks like an awesome problem.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on November 28, 2012, 02:21:02 pm
It was 8a 2 days ago wasn't it. It'll be Pete thinking he can't climb 8a in 2 sessions  ::) same old story

Going on past form, I'd say he probably can climb 8A in a session.  ::)



Yes most 8b boulderers can do the odd 8a in a sesh. It's the same on routes, he's done four 8c+a but doesn't think he can do 8b quicktime.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on November 28, 2012, 05:22:19 pm
He asked me today to change the grade to 7C+/8A as, on reflection, he wasn't sure.
Title: Hatch Life High 8A
Post by: comPiler on November 29, 2012, 12:00:12 pm
Hatch Life High 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=631)
29 November 2012, 12:00 am

Robins grabs new Parisella's link

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Wal Golygfa 7A+
Post by: comPiler on December 01, 2012, 12:00:07 am
Wal Golygfa 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=630)
28 November 2012, 12:00 am

Neat addition to Trwyn Talfarach

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Yank 7A+
Post by: comPiler on December 03, 2012, 12:00:06 pm
The Yank 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=632)
3 December 2012, 12:00 am

Another quality addition to Porth Ysgo

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: December 2012 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on December 07, 2012, 12:00:07 pm
December 2012 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=633)
7 December 2012, 12:00 am

Big G is feeling the strain

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Wood FT on December 07, 2012, 12:47:09 pm
That was a great piece of writing, particularly. . .

"...how long can one ‘work’ on a problem before conceding its impossibility - that one is simply posing; decorating the difficulties with a fumbling presence."

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: petejh on December 07, 2012, 01:06:39 pm
Big 'G'old dust  :great:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on December 08, 2012, 08:24:15 am
Quote from: Big G
Today's media crush of endless ‘harder things - done in more exotic places - by happier people’, squeezes us ever smaller, until we are extruded into denser, sadder little souls who can't seem to get off the ground any more, even as the sea of liquefied sheep-shit gently pours over the tops of our shoes, sending feet to an unfresh hell. It is enough to make grown adults weep into their oversized chalk-bags.

Was just reading this and had decided G had upped the ante in his writing. It's nice to come over to UKB and find myself agreed with :wave:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: r-man on December 09, 2012, 03:46:15 pm
I always enjoy Big G's stuff. Consistently well written. I think it's amongst the best climbing writing around.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on December 10, 2012, 11:33:44 am
Big G doesn't really 'do the whole internet/forum thing', but I have pointed him in the direction of your kind comments. I'm sure he'll be pleased to know that he has an appreciative audience.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on December 10, 2012, 01:24:24 pm
In anticipation of BenF's excellently named new quality problem on the Orme (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=634) appearing here soon, here are some (non-quality) photos I took on an earlier visit...

Ben camply playing with the holds...

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8059/8261328284_51b5dd548a.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/fatneck/8261328284/)

Pulling on...

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8343/8261331666_2bce3f4fa1.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/fatneck/8261331666/)

Really nice spot with generally nice rock and really good problems. Well worth a visit...
Title: Silence of the Trams 7B
Post by: comPiler on December 10, 2012, 06:00:03 pm
Silence of the Trams 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=634)
10 December 2012, 12:00 am

Immaculate limestone wall

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on December 10, 2012, 06:10:24 pm
Nice one Ben- modern classic pioneer/rediscoverer
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on December 10, 2012, 08:32:21 pm
Nice one Ben- modern classic pioneer/rediscoverer

Haha, yeah its surely been climbed before but its so good it needs naming and documenting. I really don't know about the grade you know either, could be piss to be honest, I just don't know...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on December 10, 2012, 08:34:11 pm
I was mainly referring to the likes of Where's my Hippo and Lincoln Hawke. Sounds like an fa this one..
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on December 10, 2012, 08:46:29 pm
Yeah maybe. I just feel its always worth getting things documented, I'm always pleased to read about new things to try. Especially now I've run out of soft touches to climb.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on December 12, 2012, 11:31:27 am
In anticipation of BenF's excellently named new quality problem on the Orme (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=634) appearing here soon, here are some (non-quality) photos I took on an earlier visit...

Ben camply playing with the holds...

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8059/8261328284_51b5dd548a.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/fatneck/8261328284/)

Pulling on...

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8343/8261331666_2bce3f4fa1.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/fatneck/8261331666/)

Really nice spot with generally nice rock and really good problems. Well worth a visit...

Come on Fatneck, straighten your skyline out, that wall is much steeper than your pics suggest!  ;D

Lovely sunny spot, isn't it.

Did anybody repeat Zumanity:

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/Zumanity_0277.jpg)

Just curious for some grade consensus.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on December 12, 2012, 11:39:18 am
Yeah maybe. I just feel its always worth getting things documented, I'm always pleased to read about new things to try. Especially now I've run out of soft touches to climb.

Ben, please carry on 'pioneering/rediscovering'. Where's My Hippo, In the Mix (etc), Lincoln Hawke - they're all great problems, and this new one looks like a cracker too. People are welcome to retro claim if they want, but at least by putting them up online more folk can get to enjoy them.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on December 12, 2012, 12:18:08 pm
Didn't try Zumanity, but it looks classy. I will be back up there very soon so will have a go. It does look spicy for 6B...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on December 12, 2012, 12:21:42 pm
Quote from: Panton
Did anybody repeat Zumanity

I fondled the holds however, we were in the process of retreating from an incoming hefty shower and that's as far as I got. However, I did think 6b(?) might be a bit harsh!?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on December 12, 2012, 12:29:15 pm
Quote from: Panton
Did anybody repeat Zumanity

I fondled the holds however, we were in the process of retreating from an incoming hefty shower and that's as far as I got. However, I did think 6b(?) might be a bit harsh!?

Pete Robins in undergrading shocker! - surely not...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on December 12, 2012, 04:15:13 pm
Whatever next..
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on December 18, 2012, 12:12:32 pm
I was up there trying the sitter to silence of the trams at the weekend. Sitter is very hard if anyone is keen.  The stand up was piss though. Me suggesting 7B was rather over the top perhaps. Still excellent and not an easy move, probably very conditions dependent. It was baltic on saturday and the slopey crimp felt twice the size it had the previous weekend.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on December 18, 2012, 08:08:29 pm
I was up there trying the sitter to silence of the trams at the weekend. Sitter is very hard if anyone is keen.  The stand up was piss though. Me suggesting 7B was rather over the top perhaps. Still excellent and not an easy move, probably very conditions dependent. It was baltic on saturday and the slopey crimp felt twice the size it had the previous weekend.

I did wonder about the sitter from the pics. I've never been up there so will go soon
Title: Gollum 7A/+
Post by: comPiler on December 21, 2012, 06:00:06 pm
Gollum 7A/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=635)
21 December 2012, 12:00 am

New Sheep Pen traverse

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Shrek sds 7B+/C
Post by: comPiler on January 10, 2013, 06:00:05 pm
Shrek sds 7B+/C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=636)
10 January 2013, 12:00 am

Extended version of Shrek at Sheep Pen

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: January 2013 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on January 12, 2013, 06:00:07 pm
January 2013 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=637)
12 January 2013, 12:00 am

From Fontainebleau to Rhyd Ddu...

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: petejh on January 12, 2013, 06:21:30 pm
 :lol: Brilliant!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on January 13, 2013, 11:14:29 am
Quote
A new year breaks and Big G startles us with his polymath grasp of language, culture and, of course, the importance of dolerite boulders to the well being of this great nation of Wales.

Damn right!
Title: Nevermind 7A+
Post by: comPiler on February 01, 2013, 06:26:27 pm
Nevermind 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=638)
29 January 2013, 12:00 am

Ysgo traverse line

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Snapdragon 8A
Post by: comPiler on February 02, 2013, 06:00:03 pm
Snapdragon 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=639)
2 February 2013, 12:00 am

Best line in the Ogwen falls to Robins

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on February 02, 2013, 07:34:08 pm
Ace, like the walk-in  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ziggytang on February 21, 2013, 10:01:36 pm
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=641 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=641)

Looks great!
Title: February 2013 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on February 24, 2013, 01:49:40 am
February 2013 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=640)
19 February 2013, 12:00 am

The Cae Mabon Tooth

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Roof of a Baby Budda 7C+
Post by: comPiler on February 24, 2013, 01:49:40 am
Roof of a Baby Budda 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=641)
20 February 2013, 12:00 am

Top quality roof in Betws woods

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Tiger, Tiger sds 7A+
Post by: comPiler on February 24, 2013, 01:49:40 am
Tiger, Tiger sds 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=642)
21 February 2013, 12:00 am

Excellent addition to Wavelength circuit

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Time Off For a Good Life 7C
Post by: comPiler on February 24, 2013, 01:49:40 am
Time Off For a Good Life 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=643)
22 February 2013, 12:00 am

More juicy Wavelength additions

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Clear Water 7C
Post by: comPiler on February 25, 2013, 06:00:03 pm
Clear Water 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=644)
25 February 2013, 12:00 am

Pair of crackers in Beddgelert Forest

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Thou shalt not wreck the place!
Post by: comPiler on February 28, 2013, 06:00:08 pm
Thou shalt not wreck the place! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=645)
28 February 2013, 12:00 am

A gentle reminder...

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Wonderwall RH 7B+
Post by: comPiler on March 04, 2013, 12:00:03 pm
Wonderwall RH 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=646)
4 March 2013, 12:00 am

New variation on old classic

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: a dense loner on March 04, 2013, 01:15:21 pm
I always thought wonder wall was 7b+ Si, however a few people over there like being stupid with grades mentioning no doyles or cattells at all  ;) Giving something a different grade entirely than what it is is just grading it wrong it's not under grading or over grading. If someone wants to show that their willies bigger than someone else's all they need to do is get their willy out, job done
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on March 04, 2013, 04:50:19 pm
Not willy waving, it was 11 years ago! I always wanted to give it 7b but the Cattells told me to give it 7a+. They thought the limit of human performance was 7c+ back then. When I tried it after going to Hueco I thought it was harder than the v9s I'd done there and defo 7b+. It's lost at least one hold since. Most people say 7b+ though.  I always wondered if someone could do a super direct to the rail on the right hand finish. Classic boulder that one, can't believe we missed Special K on the back.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: El Mocho on March 04, 2013, 04:53:56 pm
Having been to Crafnant for the first time last week I thought Wonder Wall was desperate. Took me longer than Special K or Petes Big hanging prow (with low start) thing. Doylo you are just a beast.  Was it given 7a+ originally??
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on March 04, 2013, 04:58:14 pm
It was but we young , stupid and more importantly skinny! I think it's nails now! It's well more powerful than Special K
Title: Gopping 7A
Post by: comPiler on March 06, 2013, 06:00:04 pm
Gopping 7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=647)
6 March 2013, 12:00 am

New addition to The Gop

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Pilgrimage 8B+ gets second ascent
Post by: comPiler on March 07, 2013, 12:00:17 am
Pilgrimage 8B+ gets second ascent (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=648)
6 March 2013, 12:00 am

Alex Barrows conquers North Wales' hardest line

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: abarro81 on March 07, 2013, 08:14:46 am
For the record, NWB.com's position is that Parisella's cave is a unique venue (at least for North Wales) with a fairly unique climbing style and history, and that consequently both grades should be recorded and individual climbers can take whichever grade matches the style of their ascent.

I think I gave this idea some shit on the old thread, but I've come around to it (as far as the cave is concerned, I wouldn't support it for routes). I don't want me climbing these things in the style that I enjoy to put people off trying them in the original style and at the original level of difficulty if that's what they prefer to do. V14/F9a/V12/13/F8c/+ it is  ;)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Davo on March 07, 2013, 08:38:37 am
Brilliant effort repeating Pilgrimage!

However... I don't like the idea of 2 grades in the cave (or anywhere for that matter). To me the grade is always for the method of least resistance. I understand that there are historical eliminates but I don't think Pilgrimage/The Big Link is an eliminate nor is Pilgrim. To me they are simply lines to be climbed via the most efficient method. Yes Malc did an amazing effort but that doesn't mean anyone has to climb it the same way to do Pilgrimage.

Personally if the problems are now easier I think they just simply need downgrading and be done with it. The cave is a great venue and yes The Big Link is now easier but who cares - the line is still the same. This happens all the time with climbing - someone finds an easier sequence/method and something changes grade.

I just can't see the point of a knee-pad grade and one without. The only reason I can see is that people like the idea of problems such as Pilgrimage being these unbelievably hard power endurance test pieces and are upset that someone has come along and climbed them in a new method.

Anyway, personally I think Alex's repeat is outstanding and deserves a lot more publicity and congratulations. That line has stood unrepeated for a long time and it is an amazing effort doing it.

Cheers Dave
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: abarro81 on March 07, 2013, 08:55:10 am
It is slightly eliminate actually since it finishes up Beaver Cleaver rather than, say, lip service or bust lip.. Anyway, I've said my piece above and on my blog so I'm not getting involved any further!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Stubbs on March 07, 2013, 09:53:54 am
I'm not sure Lip Service or Bust Lip had been climbed when Malc did it?  Good effort Alex, and a good excuse to post the man himself:

pilgrimage.mov (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lx_4lsliZU4#)
Title: Morning Glory 7C
Post by: comPiler on March 07, 2013, 12:00:07 pm
Morning Glory 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=646)
4 March 2013, 12:00 am

New variation on old classic

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on March 07, 2013, 03:29:12 pm
Regarding Morning Glory: Mike contacted me suggesting a proper name for his new exit from Wonderwall, plus a tweak to the grade. So not a new news item - just a tweaked one.

I guess the kneepad debate has been done to death already so I won't stoke the fires any further except to raise the presentation issue as it relates to the forthcoming NWB guide. Here's some choices:

29. Pilgrimage 8B+ (8A+/B) ***
Epic stamina test piece forging a line of least resistance (apart from the Beaver Cleaver exit) out from the back left corner to reach the high ledge on the front right side of the cave. etc...

Or if the order annoys you:

29. Pilgrimage 8A+/B (8B+) ***
Epic stamina test piece forging a line of least resistance (apart from the Beaver Cleaver exit) out from the back left corner to reach the high ledge on the front right side of the cave. etc...

Or if it's just the messy numbers that grates:

29. Pilgrimage 8B+ ***
Epic stamina test piece forging a line of least resistance (apart from the Beaver Cleaver exit) out from the back left corner to reach the high ledge on the front right side of the cave. A kneepad ascent warrants 8A+/B. etc...

Or if you think the bareback grade should be relegated to the body of the description:

29. Pilgrimage 8A+/B ***
Epic stamina test piece forging a line of least resistance (apart from the Beaver Cleaver exit) out from the back left corner to reach the high ledge on the front right side of the cave. A bareback ascent warrants 8B+. etc...

Let me know what you think.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: metal arms on March 07, 2013, 03:41:27 pm
I reckon 29 looks best...   :)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on March 07, 2013, 03:48:28 pm
 :) okay, fair point. here they are with individual numbers, plus Malc's FA credit:

29. Pilgrimage 8B+ (8A+/B) ***
Epic stamina test piece forging a line of least resistance (apart from the Beaver Cleaver exit) out from the back left corner to reach the high ledge on the front right side of the cave. etc... [Malcolm Smith 07.04]

Or if the order annoys you:

30. Pilgrimage 8A+/B (8B+) ***
Epic stamina test piece forging a line of least resistance (apart from the Beaver Cleaver exit) out from the back left corner to reach the high ledge on the front right side of the cave. etc... [Malcolm Smith 07.04]

Or if it's just the messy numbers that grates:

31. Pilgrimage 8B+ ***

Epic stamina test piece forging a line of least resistance (apart from the Beaver Cleaver exit) out from the back left corner to reach the high ledge on the front right side of the cave. A kneepad ascent warrants 8A+/B. etc... [Malcolm Smith 07.04]

Or if you think the bareback grade should be relegated to the body of the description:

32. Pilgrimage 8A+/B ***
Epic stamina test piece forging a line of least resistance (apart from the Beaver Cleaver exit) out from the back left corner to reach the high ledge on the front right side of the cave. A bareback ascent warrants 8B+. etc... [Malcolm Smith 07.04]
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Duma on March 07, 2013, 03:52:44 pm
The last one. ie give whatever grade is most appropriate for the average size climber using modern equipment. Add a note that the FA was done pre kneepads at 9a/8B+ if you like.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on March 07, 2013, 04:30:08 pm
That's the point Davo, barrows isnt an average sized climber so your grading things for a giant who's good at kneebars rather than the vast majority.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on March 07, 2013, 04:38:01 pm
Aye, surely the issue is that the specific size of the kneebars. Anyone can get kneepads just like anyone can wear rock shoes.....but if it's only few people who can fit in the kneebars then that can't be the default method of ascent.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: willackers on March 07, 2013, 04:45:49 pm
I don't see why the cave can't have mixed grades?, Pilgrimage isn't a boulder problem, it's a route. Plus, I'd be gutted if Alex had climbed font 8B ;)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on March 07, 2013, 05:06:43 pm
I don't see why the cave can't have mixed grades?, Pilgrimage isn't a boulder problem, it's a route. Plus, I'd be gutted if Alex had climbed font 8B ;)

The longer problems in the cave, such as Pilgrimage would have a french grade mentioned as a bracketed grade in the description.

So it could look something like this:

31. Pilgrimage 8B+ ***
Epic stamina test piece forging a line of least resistance (apart from the Beaver Cleaver exit) out from the back left corner to reach the high ledge on the front right side of the cave. Blah, blah description, Blah, blah description, Blah, blah description, Blah, blah description Blah, blah description Blah, blah description etc... (F9a) A kneepad ascent warrants 8A+/B or F8c+. [Malcolm Smith 07.04]
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: slackline on March 07, 2013, 05:24:04 pm
That has the potential to confuse with regards to the FA doesn't it?

What about...

31. Pilgrimage 8B+ ***
Epic stamina test piece forging a line of least resistance (apart from the Beaver Cleaver exit) out from the back left corner to reach the high ledge on the front right side of the cave. Blah, blah description, Blah, blah description, Blah, blah description, Blah, blah description Blah, blah description Blah, blah description etc... (F9a) [Malcolm Smith 07.04] A kneepad ascent warrants 8A+/B or F8c+. [Alex Barrows 03.13]
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: tomtom on March 07, 2013, 05:32:38 pm
How about saying it how it is...

"31. Pilgrimage 8B+ ***
Epic stamina test piece forging a line of least resistance (apart from the Beaver Cleaver exit) out from the back left corner to reach the high ledge on the front right side of the cave. Blah, blah description, Blah, blah description, Blah, blah description, Blah, blah description Blah, blah description Blah, blah description etc... (F9a) [Malcolm Smith 07.04] Morpho dependant knee trickery allows two good hands off rests that drop the grade to 8A+ (F8c+)."

(its not the knee pads that make it easy - its the knee bars helped by the knee pads that make the difference...)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Davo on March 07, 2013, 05:48:32 pm


32. Pilgrimage 8A+/B ***
Epic stamina test piece forging a line of least resistance (apart from the Beaver Cleaver exit) out from the back left corner to reach the high ledge on the front right side of the cave. A bareback ascent warrants 8B+. etc... [Malcolm Smith 07.04]

That is the best description for me. Describes the easiest method of doing the Big Link but also credits Malc's old method.

Doylo: I can't really comment about the kneebars as I haven't been to the cave in ages but I am surprised that they are so leg length specific. Most kneebars I have used aren't but am keen to check out that one crossing the arch on Pilgrim.

As I have said I don't see a big issue here. The method has changed and the grade is now easier - therefore re-grade the problem. Do the same for all the problems in the cave that are affected. If any of the ones I have done go down in grade that is fine (that is a lie - actually I will be giutted!).

Personally next time I go I shall take a knee-pad.

Anyway, I reckon it would be better to concentrate on what is in my opinion an outstanding effort from Alex. To climb those long links in the cave requires a lot of time, patience, dedication and petrol money plus a ton of training. The Big Link is the ultimate of those and has stood unrepeated for a long time. To me finding those kneebars and getting new sequences to work is a great effort from him.

Cheers Dave
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: abarro81 on March 08, 2013, 08:28:26 am
I don't think those of us doing these things with knees should get our names in i.e. if you use slackline's version it should be adjusted to:
31. Pilgrimage 8B+ ***
Epic stamina test piece forging a line of least resistance (apart from the Beaver Cleaver exit) out from the back left corner to reach the high ledge on the front right side of the cave. Blah, blah description, Blah, blah description, Blah, blah description, Blah, blah description Blah, blah description Blah, blah description etc... (F9a) [Malcolm Smith 07.04] A kneepad ascent warrants 8A+/B or F8c+see below. [Alex Barrows 03.13]

How about saying it how it is...
"... Morpho dependant knee trickery allows two good hands off rests that drop the grade to 8A+ (F8c+)."
That's not really how it is. For starters, whilst the first rest is notionally no-hands it's really awkward to take your hands off without being ejected ass first towards the floor in a ball of weird twisty tension. I couldn't get it to work right consistently so didn't take my hands off, though no doubt someone with more body awareness than me would be able to. It's definitely not what I would describe as "good hands off". Also that first one is probably not very morpho as there are lots of foot options. Anyway, the rests are - IMO - not the game changer. The second one (the real no hands one) is only 3 moves before the jugs anyway. It's a better rest than the jugs since you're not on your arms, but it's highly active on legs and core so you can't relax like you can on the jugs. I'm not sure why people seem to focus on the rests - same with director's cut - when they're not the crucial ones. The real game changer is that my sequence avoids the 2 hardest moves on the route. Same as for Director's - the game changer there is NOT the no-hander, it's the TC kneebar.
Also, definitely don't put 8A+ (8c+). My boulder grade guess is pretty much based on grade maths, but logic says it's either 8A+/B (8c/+) or 8B (8c+). I'd probably vote for the slash grade since I'm a bit unsure, it's hard to grade this sort of link and I'm just that kind of brave and humble guy. If I'm not allowed to use a slash then 8B (8c+). But 8A+ definitely does not equal F8c+ so it would look dumb to put that.
Title: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Stu Littlefair on March 08, 2013, 08:48:51 am
To be honest, I think Simon's tying himself up in knots because he wants the guidebook to predict the future. Two people have done this problem, with two different sequences at very different grades.

In the long run, one or the other, or a hybrid of both will become seen as the normal sequence, and that will set both the grade and the description. Which one wins will depend on how morpho barrows' sequence is I would have thought - almost everyone who can use the TC kneebar does, after all.

So, if you need to put something in the guide now, there should be no problem with it being imprecise, since that's all it can be until more ascents define the norms. No need for two grades, debating what they are, which comes first etc. note that alternative sequences exist which are easier for some and let time work it out.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: a dense loner on March 08, 2013, 09:14:22 am
The grade should be 8B+ since malcs a normal sized climber, Alex is massive. Thats how things are graded. Everybody apart from the tall know it's easier to do most problems if you're tall. This is a universally acknowledged fact
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on March 08, 2013, 09:47:17 am
Dense that is so wise I can't even find a combination of UKB smileys to do it justice...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on March 08, 2013, 05:08:05 pm
To be honest, I think Simon's tying himself up in knots because he wants the guidebook to predict the future. Two people have done this problem, with two different sequences at very different grades.

In the long run, one or the other, or a hybrid of both will become seen as the normal sequence, and that will set both the grade and the description. Which one wins will depend on how morpho barrows' sequence is I would have thought - almost everyone who can use the TC kneebar does, after all.

So, if you need to put something in the guide now, there should be no problem with it being imprecise, since that's all it can be until more ascents define the norms. No need for two grades, debating what they are, which comes first etc. note that alternative sequences exist which are easier for some and let time work it out.

Nodder made a similar point last night  - we don't know yet if anybody will follow Alex's lead or what the eventual norm will be.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: petejh on March 08, 2013, 05:35:02 pm
Don't forget it should be bi-lingual too. Can't upset any Welshies who might not understand what 'knee pad' means.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Ffati on March 08, 2013, 10:30:33 pm
Don't forget it should be bi-lingual too. Can't upset any Welshies who might not understand what 'knee pad' means.

31 Pilgrimage 8B+***
Prawf ffitrwydd eithriadol yn dilyn y trywydd hawddaf ( ar wahan i ddiweddglo Beaver Cleaver ) o gornel chwith i'r silff uchel ar y dde. Mae defnyddio pad penglin yn haeddu 8A+/B
[Malcolm Smith 07.04]

Is that ok? ;D
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: petejh on March 08, 2013, 11:24:40 pm
Da iawn!

Si - there's your solution - for any problems that have 'issues' just write whatever you want in Welsh, they'll never suspect anything. That's just reminded me how we used Welsh over the radios in Bosnia to stop the Serbs listening in on our communications. Pretty low-tech. 30 year-old radios from the cold war not being particularly difficult to eavesdrop, they're better now. 'During the war' etc...
Title: Lead Rain 7B
Post by: comPiler on March 09, 2013, 06:00:17 pm
Lead Rain 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=649)
9 March 2013, 12:00 am

New traverse line at Ruthin Escarpment

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Pilgrimage repeat film released
Post by: comPiler on March 09, 2013, 06:00:17 pm
Pilgrimage repeat film released (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=650)
9 March 2013, 12:00 am

Footage of second ascent

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Roadkill 7A+
Post by: comPiler on March 19, 2013, 12:00:16 am
Roadkill 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=651)
18 March 2013, 12:00 am

Roadside Llyn Gwynant boulder developed

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Madame Allure 8B
Post by: comPiler on March 22, 2013, 12:00:04 pm
Madame Allure 8B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=652)
22 March 2013, 12:00 am

Robins completes another major line in the Ogwen

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Billionaire's Bulge 7A
Post by: comPiler on March 22, 2013, 06:00:04 pm
Billionaire's Bulge 7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=653)
22 March 2013, 12:00 am

Straight up line at Ruthin Escarpment

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Sunset Sit 7C+
Post by: comPiler on March 26, 2013, 12:00:25 am
Sunset Sit 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=654)
25 March 2013, 12:00 am

Powerful addition to Pantymwyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: March 2013 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on March 26, 2013, 12:00:26 am
March 2013 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=655)
25 March 2013, 12:00 am

The Glued Diamond of Porth Ysgo

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on March 26, 2013, 02:45:05 pm
Nice as ever... Bumped into Big G in the Spar in 'Beris on Sat and encouraged him that his BOTM entries were enjoyed by many. He seemed surprised and pleased in equal measure and pledged to continue his explorations :)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy_e on March 26, 2013, 02:53:33 pm
That looks amazing/terrifying!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on March 26, 2013, 03:19:40 pm
That looks amazing/terrifying!

I'm sort of breaking the Boulder of the Month golden rule (no climbers, just rocks), but couldn't resist posting this:

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Glued%20Diamond%20of%20Porth%20Ysgo_4278.jpg)

I went up a couple of times but couldn't quite summon the full commitment that was required to reach that lofty perch on top of the block. Would be a cool place to sit if you could make it up there.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: r-man on March 26, 2013, 04:02:01 pm
I wouldn't want to pull on to that!

Actually, it would be great to see more shots of G on his discoveries, gives a good sense of scale - both of the rock and the obsession! And that's not in any way derogatory - the web is full of so much repetitive hyperbole about king lines and awesome movement, but we all know the true path to enlightenment is paved with obscure esoterica...
Title: Roof of a Baby Buddha access issue
Post by: comPiler on April 05, 2013, 07:00:06 pm
Roof of a Baby Buddha access issue (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=656)
5 April 2013, 12:00 am

Don't drive up the forestry road

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Join the Dots 8A
Post by: comPiler on April 12, 2013, 01:00:09 pm
Join the Dots 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=657)
12 April 2013, 12:00 am

Tom Williams strikes at Pantymwyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Ysgo Diamond 6B!
Post by: comPiler on April 12, 2013, 01:00:12 pm
The Ysgo Diamond 6B! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=658)
12 April 2013, 12:00 am

Boulder of the Month feature conquered!!!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Grey House 7C+
Post by: comPiler on April 15, 2013, 07:00:04 pm
Grey House 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=659)
15 April 2013, 12:00 am

Punchy addition left of Roof of a Baby Buddha

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: April 2013 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on April 23, 2013, 01:00:04 pm
April 2013 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=660)
23 April 2013, 12:00 am

Gesail dolerite beauties!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on April 25, 2013, 09:21:48 am
Quote from: Big G
To walk the broad wind-rocked ridge westwards from the crest of Craig y Gesail is to be confronted by the scale of the place, Cwmstradllyn and Cwm Pennant scooping north, to the south; the sprawl of Porthmadog and west; the untold fable of Llŷn.

This is the domain of the raven, the buzzard and even the red kite; each of them scanning the vastness with a furious eye for detail...just as we should.

Genius...   :clap2:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2013, 09:40:06 am
Poetry man, sheer poetry. Where can wad points be forwarded to?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on April 25, 2013, 12:40:05 pm
I'll pass on the praise to the big man - I'm sure he'll be chuffed.
Title: Big Bad Bari 6C+
Post by: comPiler on May 12, 2013, 03:52:23 pm
Big Bad Bari 6C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=661)
3 May 2013, 12:00 am

Roof crack action in Dyffryn Mymbyr

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: May 2013 boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on May 12, 2013, 03:52:23 pm
May 2013 boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=662)
10 May 2013, 12:00 am

The Cuckoo Boulders of Cwm Caregog

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Grade 7 bonanza on Gwynant Roadblock
Post by: comPiler on May 23, 2013, 01:01:09 am
Grade 7 bonanza on Gwynant Roadblock (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=663)
22 May 2013, 12:00 am

Intense development of superb roadside block

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy_e on May 23, 2013, 09:38:30 am
Looks good!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ziggytang on May 23, 2013, 12:20:25 pm
Not sure he has enough pads to be honest though!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 23, 2013, 12:52:01 pm
To be fair he was trying that highball 7B on his own with those big gym pads. Even with loads of pads it's pretty spicy! The problems to the right are fine with just a few pads though.

Such a great block - had a lot of fun here in the last few weeks.

(There is a dead sheep by the fence which is a bit smelly but hopefully this will stop humming soon.)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Luke Owens on May 23, 2013, 01:25:03 pm
Looks great, psyched to check it out! Will be good for a session during the family holiday's to Porthmadog!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Luke Owens on May 27, 2013, 03:58:49 pm
Does anyone know if the the Gwynant Roadblock easily accessable with a push chair? Cheers
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Davo on May 27, 2013, 05:56:48 pm
Was there yesterday

There is a gap in the all and then a stile to get over. Would depend on how many people you had to help you with the push chair.

I guess not easily accessible but it is very close to the road.

Some good problems, that Roadhog on the left is brilliant

Dave
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Luke Owens on May 28, 2013, 09:10:43 am
Was there yesterday

There is a gap in the all and then a stile to get over. Would depend on how many people you had to help you with the push chair.

I guess not easily accessible but it is very close to the road.

Some good problems, that Roadhog on the left is brilliant

Dave

Thanks Dave, I should be able to negotiate the stile. Keen to check it out, looks great!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: John Boy on May 29, 2013, 12:15:10 pm
Great climbing.

I thought that bad smell was just Davo's aftershave? But after investigation there is a dead sheep; too.

I would confirm though that the dead sheep in no way detracts from what is a great all-in-one venue!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on May 31, 2013, 08:40:11 am
I visited yesterday and was so taken with the venue, got so involved, did so much climbing... didn't even notice a dead sheep.  Brilliant little crag.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Davo on May 31, 2013, 04:44:31 pm
I agree, thought it was pretty good. Nice setting as well. You been to the Craig y Llyn boulders Ben? That Voie Normale and Alice are good there.

Dave
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 31, 2013, 05:17:11 pm
Quite a lot of cool new stuff happening at the moment:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=665 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=665)

(Not sure why UKB is not automatically loading this?)

Plus, last night, I just finished the last main line on an excellent dolerite block in the Ogwen Valley. About a dozen things to go at, mostly 6s and 7s. I'll get a topo etc online later tonight.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 31, 2013, 06:22:29 pm
Here's a pic of the new Ogwen block:

(http://news.v12outdoor.com/wp-content/uploads/Moon-Dust-517_9855.jpg)

Henry Griffiths on Moon Stomp 7A
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 31, 2013, 07:14:11 pm
That looks like good rock there Si. So much to go at!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy popp on May 31, 2013, 08:26:29 pm
It does look lovely.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on June 01, 2013, 11:11:11 am
You been to the Craig y Llyn boulders Ben? That Voie Normale and Alice are good there.

Yeah, liked it too.  Went there last year, when it was first reported.  You're a year behind me mate!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on June 01, 2013, 11:27:42 am
Here's the full news item with topo and descriptions:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=666 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=666)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on June 01, 2013, 05:47:33 pm
This guides gonna be the bouldering version of the old Lancashire rock guide...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on June 03, 2013, 03:17:21 pm
Bring it on!!
Title: Das Pumpenhausen Test Piece 8B
Post by: comPiler on June 05, 2013, 03:23:10 pm
Das Pumpenhausen Test Piece 8B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=664)
28 May 2013, 12:00 am

Alex Megos climbs Fred Nicole Roof

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: High Voltage 7B
Post by: comPiler on June 05, 2013, 03:23:10 pm
High Voltage 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=665)
29 May 2013, 12:00 am

Excellent new wall in Beddgelert Forest

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Quality dolerite block in Ogwen Valley
Post by: comPiler on June 05, 2013, 03:23:10 pm
Quality dolerite block in Ogwen Valley (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=666)
31 May 2013, 12:00 am

More superb 6s and 7s to go at

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: New Tan y Grisiau problems
Post by: comPiler on June 20, 2013, 07:00:06 am
New Tan y Grisiau problems (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=667)
13 June 2013, 12:00 am

Michael Allday adds a 6C and two 7As

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Two Slugs 7A+
Post by: comPiler on June 20, 2013, 07:00:09 am
Two Slugs 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=668)
17 June 2013, 12:00 am

Neat addition to Summer Teeth boulder

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: June 2013 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on June 20, 2013, 07:00:10 am
June 2013 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=669)
17 June 2013, 12:00 am

The Stone Minkey of Trwyn y Graig

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Pigeon Crack 7A!
Post by: comPiler on June 24, 2013, 07:00:05 pm
Pigeon Crack 7A! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=670)
22 June 2013, 12:00 am

Parting shot from Canada-bound Neil Dyer

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: John Boy on June 25, 2013, 12:40:36 pm
Quote
Two Slugs 7A+
17 June 2013, 12:00 am

Neat addition to Summer Teeth boulder

As I was present at the sending of this fine new line I'd like to add the following to the description ...." soaring proud, independant king line of impeccable quality and unparallelled difficulty. A superb addition to a world class area from an all round nice guy ...".

Sometimes Mr P. can be too modest in his description, and also in keeping with most of the problem descriptions in the guide  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on June 28, 2013, 09:19:53 am
Quote
Two Slugs 7A+
17 June 2013, 12:00 am

Neat addition to Summer Teeth boulder

As I was present at the sending of this fine new line I'd like to add the following to the description ...." soaring proud, independant king line of impeccable quality and unparallelled difficulty. A superb addition to a world class area from an all round nice guy ...".

Sometimes Mr P. can be too modest in his description, and also in keeping with most of the problem descriptions in the guide  :2thumbsup:

Never let the truth get in the way of a good story...  ;)

I guess your intro is a bit more inspiring than the matter of fact summary that Mr Pinnington came up with:

A good problem - slightly eliminate in nature but worthwhile.


Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Davo on June 28, 2013, 09:42:11 am
I don't think I am going to get a job in marketing anytime soon!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on June 28, 2013, 11:19:12 am
Oh, I don't know, I quite like its succinct, pithy, 'tell-it-like-it-is' quality.

And at least it won't be found in breach of the Advertising Standards Agency, unlike some of my OTT 'best problem in the world' rants.
Title: Two new 7C links on Gwynant Roadbloc
Post by: comPiler on July 03, 2013, 07:00:09 am
Two new 7C links on Gwynant Roadbloc (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=671)
2 July 2013, 12:00 am

More arm-blasting action from Mr Hayward

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on July 03, 2013, 10:29:36 am
I met Owen at the Ruthven boulder a couple of years ago. Nice guy, gave me some good syke for doing The Dude on a later visit.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on July 03, 2013, 01:01:08 pm
I met Owen at the Ruthven boulder a couple of years ago. Nice guy, gave me some good syke for doing The Dude on a later visit.

Owen is always incredibly psyched and shames me with the amount of volume he manages to cram into any given session. Always just one more problem, one more link until my arms can't take any more. I'd probably be a better climber if I hung out with him more often (actually, I am meeting him tonight for what I'm sure will be a punishing session!)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: masonwoods101 on July 03, 2013, 01:15:07 pm
Quote
actually, I am meeting him tonight for what I'm sure will be a punishing session!)
Quote
euphemism?  :sorry:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on July 04, 2013, 10:19:02 am
Quote
actually, I am meeting him tonight for what I'm sure will be a punishing session!)
Quote
euphemism?  :sorry:

Don't be sorry - where would we be without a bit of smut and innuendo!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: masonwoods101 on July 04, 2013, 01:35:40 pm
It is the Internet after all hahaha
Title: July 2013 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on July 28, 2013, 04:43:35 pm
July 2013 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=673)
26 July 2013, 12:00 am

Craig y Butlins

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Das Pumpenhausen Test Piece 8B film released
Post by: comPiler on July 28, 2013, 04:43:35 pm
Das Pumpenhausen Test Piece 8B film released (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=674)
26 July 2013, 12:00 am

First ascent film on DMM site

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Hand Rails of Crib Goch 7A+
Post by: comPiler on July 28, 2013, 04:43:35 pm
The Hand Rails of Crib Goch 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=672)
26 July 2013, 12:00 am

Brace of quality lines in Cwm Glas Bach

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on July 30, 2013, 09:11:02 am
Regarding Penychain coastal outcrop.. Got a week on the Lleyn next week and might check this out. Any idea about parking? Penychain appears to be a massive holiday caravan place with no obvious parking spots...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: tomtom on July 30, 2013, 09:25:33 am
Hey Fatneck - I'm Nr Abersoch/Ysgo from 6-8th Aug... drop me a message/tweet if you fancy meeting up for a couple of hours bloddering?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on July 30, 2013, 09:30:11 am
Ahem... Just realised that the reason it's a massive caravan park is because it's fecking Butlins!!! Still, any parking advice gratefully received!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on July 30, 2013, 09:30:53 am
Will do Tom...
Title: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: tomtom on July 30, 2013, 11:51:41 am
Will do Tom...

Cool. MrsTT wants beach/tourist shizzle but there's plenty of scope for me to bunk off :)

Anyway weather etc..
Title: New 8A+ on Sea View Walls
Post by: comPiler on August 14, 2013, 01:00:03 pm
New 8A+ on Sea View Walls (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=675)
14 August 2013, 12:00 am

Ned Feehally climbs hard roof/lip traverse

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Enemy Anemone 8A+ on Sea View Walls
Post by: comPiler on August 15, 2013, 01:00:12 pm
Enemy Anemone 8A+ on Sea View Walls (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=675)
14 August 2013, 12:00 am

Ned Feehally climbs hard roof/lip traverse

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: August 2013 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on August 27, 2013, 07:00:03 pm
August 2013 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=676)
27 August 2013, 12:00 am

Friction is your friend

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Richie Crouch on August 28, 2013, 04:15:09 pm
Another marvellous entry from the G of all knowledge.
Title: Hellraiser sds 7B
Post by: comPiler on September 02, 2013, 01:00:03 pm
Hellraiser sds 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=677)
2 September 2013, 12:00 am

New additions to Wavelength block

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: September 2013 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on September 24, 2013, 07:00:05 pm
September 2013 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=678)
24 September 2013, 12:00 am

The Biscuit Tin Boulder of Marchlyn Mawr

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Hoseyb on September 24, 2013, 08:34:51 pm
Heh heh..

It had to happen sometime.

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/giveaway-project-of-month-january.html (http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/giveaway-project-of-month-january.html)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on September 25, 2013, 09:07:31 am
 :) Ha, ha, I thought I recognised that block! I'll let Big G know.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on September 25, 2013, 09:10:34 am
There are a few other reasonable blocks in the same area. Will Perrin and Houdini, once of this parish, did do some stuff here about 10 years ago. Most impressive boulder is an erratic in the quarry further down near the start of the reservoir road. Higg did a cool 7Aish thing on it.
Title: Fishermen's View Boulders
Post by: comPiler on October 01, 2013, 01:03:08 am
Fishermen's View Boulders (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=679)
30 September 2013, 12:00 am

Trio of grade 7s on Mynydd y Graig

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Isles of Wonder 8B repeated
Post by: comPiler on October 07, 2013, 07:00:05 pm
Isles of Wonder 8B repeated (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=680)
7 October 2013, 12:00 am

Chris Webb Parsons gets coveted 2nd ascent

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Clwt y Fiaren - new mini area at Rhiw
Post by: comPiler on October 14, 2013, 01:00:04 pm
Clwt y Fiaren - new mini area at Rhiw (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=681)
14 October 2013, 12:00 am

Range of quality problems up to 7B

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Cockney Man-Witch 7A+
Post by: comPiler on October 15, 2013, 01:00:04 pm
The Cockney Man-Witch 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=682)
15 October 2013, 12:00 am

Epic, technical traverse of Thumb Boy wall

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: October 2013 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on October 23, 2013, 01:00:14 pm
October 2013 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=683)
23 October 2013, 12:00 am

Anglesey Crag X revealed

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Fish Pie 7C
Post by: comPiler on November 12, 2013, 06:00:02 pm
Fish Pie 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=684)
12 November 2013, 12:00 am

Danny Cattell is back!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: November 2013 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on November 18, 2013, 06:00:05 pm
November 2013 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=685)
18 November 2013, 12:00 am

Beachcombers of the world unite!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: 4 new lines in Bat Cave up to 7B+
Post by: comPiler on December 23, 2013, 06:00:04 pm
4 new lines in Bat Cave up to 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=687)
23 December 2013, 12:00 am

Nefoedd bonanza continues

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: December 2013 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on December 23, 2013, 06:00:05 pm
December 2013 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=688)
23 December 2013, 12:00 am

Greenstone lurking amongst the slatey chaos

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Hang 'em High 7A+!
Post by: comPiler on December 23, 2013, 06:00:05 pm
Hang 'em High 7A+! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=686)
23 December 2013, 12:00 am

Incredible highball aręte at Porth Nefoedd

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on December 23, 2013, 07:19:36 pm
Gah, more crappy lowball eliminates  ::) ;)

(http://news.v12outdoor.com/wp-content/uploads/Hang-em-High-2-600_2887.jpg)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on December 23, 2013, 07:31:00 pm
It's just a diagonal lip traverse....proper welsh  :ras:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Monolith on December 23, 2013, 10:12:12 pm
Would love to see said greenstone in the flesh. I'm going to compile a list of Big G's BOTMs in the New Year and visit them when I get mobile. It's time some of these came into viewing!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Hoseyb on December 31, 2013, 11:45:46 pm
Let us know if you do, there's a few on my radar, and some of the others are near things of extra interest.

(not many people bring pads into the quarries for instance..) :devangel:

quite keen for here http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=474 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=474)  :whistle:
Title: The Thargomizer 7A+
Post by: comPiler on January 13, 2014, 12:00:06 pm
The Thargomizer 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=690)
13 January 2014, 12:00 am

Brilliant new extension at Porth Ysgo

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Berry Head 7A
Post by: comPiler on January 13, 2014, 12:00:08 pm
Berry Head 7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=689)
13 January 2014, 12:00 am

New addition to Clwt y Fiaren

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on January 13, 2014, 02:46:13 pm
Not the long anticipated Berry Head bouldering revival beneath the old redoubt then  :???:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on January 13, 2014, 03:17:16 pm
Not the long anticipated Berry Head bouldering revival beneath the old redoubt then  :???:

The confusion was intentional - it's a multidimensional name. A Berry Head is also someone who likes eating berries. Clwt y Fiaren is Welsh for The Bramble Patch.
Title: The Thagomizer 7A+
Post by: comPiler on January 13, 2014, 06:00:08 pm
The Thagomizer 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=690)
13 January 2014, 12:00 am

Brilliant new extension at Porth Ysgo

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Drws y Coed Pop Block unveiled
Post by: comPiler on January 15, 2014, 12:01:18 am
Drws y Coed Pop Block unveiled (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=691)
14 January 2014, 12:00 am

Quick drying, roadside block with 4 new 7s

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 15, 2014, 05:58:35 am
I've climbed on that block before around 09/10. Is it the one with the drilled pockets near the 3 houses? Used to stay in the London imperial hut. Climbed a few of them lines (1,2,3 on the topo) the big slab near by is worth a visit
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on January 15, 2014, 10:14:49 am
I've climbed on that block before around 09/10. Is it the one with the drilled pockets near the 3 houses? Used to stay in the London imperial hut. Climbed a few of them lines (1,2,3 on the topo) the big slab near by is worth a visit

Seems like every man and his dog has climbed on this boulder! Had a 2002 retro claim on It's All Pop from Huffy. Plus, Craig Davies climbed on it last year. Danny said he did find an old chalk ball bag indicating that somebody had climbed there at some point in the past.

Huffy said he thought his mate Bryn Jones probably climbed the lines on the left back in 2002, but I'm assuming, given the muddy landing at the time, probably not the Harry Popper extension. Which means you get the FA of this. What is your full name, and can you remember the date or the month?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on January 15, 2014, 10:21:10 am
I've climbed on that block before around 09/10. Is it the one with the drilled pockets near the 3 houses? Used to stay in the London imperial hut. Climbed a few of them lines (1,2,3 on the topo) the big slab near by is worth a visit

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1512745_383258195152353_642380438_n.jpg)

Is this what you mean?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on January 15, 2014, 11:18:22 am
Fun boulder! And roadside...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 15, 2014, 11:42:08 am
I meant the big slab on the other side of the houses but I climbed a line on the slab as well heading up the 3 quartz veins left of the big crack... Think I thought it was a highball 6b... Don't know if it had been done before.... I started what is now the harry proper extension from that hole at the back is that right? Moved left low.... The landing there is always muddy....
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 15, 2014, 11:53:18 am
I don't want to be annoying people with retro claims hahahaha. Think it was 26 June 2010  tried the straight out dyno as well but it's nails to hold the swing...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on January 15, 2014, 12:01:00 pm
I meant the big slab on the other side of the houses but I climbed a line on the slab as well heading up the 3 quartz veins left of the big crack... Think I thought it was a highball 6b... Don't know if it had been done before.... I started what is now the harry proper extension from that hole at the back is that right? Moved left low.... The landing there is always muddy....

The big slab is Llech Drws y Coed and is written up in the Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn guide (routes up to E5).

That highball line on the other slab looks cool - shame the landing is a bit iffy. When you say highball 6b - do you mean british tech 6b? Yours is probably a FA, so care to offer a Font grade and a name? The line right of the big crack looked good too.

I started the Harry Popper Extension matched on a big layaway just left of the sds to It's All Pop. Seemed the most logical place.

Both times I've been the landing has been just normal grass - even this last time after buckets of rain over the previous month it was okay.

You didn't say what your name is?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 15, 2014, 12:22:45 pm
My name is David mason.... I remember trying the steep stuff and dodging cow shit in the landing hahahaha.... The quartz thing felt around font 6b I'd say.... It climbs the 3 quartz lines to a big hold just below the top (you can see it on the picture.) call it twiglets please.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 15, 2014, 12:24:42 pm
Just up and right from the main big slab there is a big barrel shaped rock with a tiny thin crack splitting it that I climbed too if anyone knows about that.... There looked to be other stuff potentially to the left of that block as well....
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on January 15, 2014, 12:44:00 pm
Just up and right from the main big slab there is a big barrel shaped rock with a tiny thin crack splitting it that I climbed too if anyone knows about that.... There looked to be other stuff potentially to the left of that block as well....

Are you the same David Mason as this: [url]http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/10194-pool-of-bethesda-by-david-mason[url]

How hard was the thin crack on the barrel shaped rock?

The Cwellyn guide says to ask permission from the farm for access to the main slab. Do you know if that is still the case?

(so many questions...  :))
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Monolith on January 15, 2014, 12:51:45 pm
Is monkeyboy adopting multiple alias'!?  ;)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on January 15, 2014, 12:54:34 pm
The climbing worlds not big enough for two David Masons  :smart:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 15, 2014, 01:48:32 pm
I'm a short arse punter version.... Ill change my name if it makes it any easier.... The farmer saw us on the slab a lot but never stopped us.... The thin crack on the barrel felt 6a+ ish. While ago now... There's quite a lot of rock on that hill....
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 17, 2014, 08:36:14 pm
Let me know if you get round to trying the lines on that slab
Title: Storm Damage at Porth Ysgo
Post by: comPiler on January 20, 2014, 12:00:09 pm
Storm Damage at Porth Ysgo (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=692)
20 January 2014, 12:00 am

Recent storms wreak havoc at popular Lleyn venue

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on January 20, 2014, 01:59:50 pm
Does this mean JohnM got the last ever ascent of HS right hand? Fame indeed...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: JohnM on January 20, 2014, 02:14:07 pm
Not necessarily.  Someone might have done it over the Xmas/NY period.  I reckon someone could dynamite the front of that block and then maybe lever it forward from behind.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on January 20, 2014, 02:18:45 pm
I reckon Dyer could sort it in about 10 minutes
Title: 14 Years Later now 7C+
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2014, 06:00:02 pm
14 Years Later now 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=693)
30 January 2014, 12:00 am

Pigeon's Cave test piece re-climbed

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: January 2014 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on January 31, 2014, 06:00:03 pm
January 2014 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=694)
31 January 2014, 12:00 am

The Beddgelert Walls

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Big Orange 8A!
Post by: comPiler on February 04, 2014, 12:00:34 am
The Big Orange 8A! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=695)
3 February 2014, 12:00 am

Robins climbs awesome highball at Trwyn Talfarach

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: The Big Orange 8A!
Post by: Luke Owens on February 04, 2014, 12:24:14 am
The Big Orange 8A! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=695)
3 February 2014, 12:00 am

Robins climbs awesome highball at Trwyn Talfarach

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

What a line, looks incredible!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy popp on February 04, 2014, 06:16:13 am
I suppose its not a bad line ...

Nice nod to the old days in the name.
Title: Bytilith Wall 7C+/8A!
Post by: comPiler on February 24, 2014, 06:00:03 pm
Bytilith Wall 7C+/8A! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=696)
24 February 2014, 12:00 am

Another major line falls on Rhiw coastline

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Squash 7B, Berrial sans block 7B
Post by: comPiler on February 24, 2014, 06:00:04 pm
Squash 7B, Berrial sans block 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=697)
24 February 2014, 12:00 am

Two new variants at Clwt y Fiaren

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Manorism 7A+
Post by: comPiler on February 27, 2014, 12:00:05 pm
Manorism 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=698)
27 February 2014, 12:00 am

Steep line at Manor Crag

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: February 2014 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on February 28, 2014, 12:00:05 pm
February 2014 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=699)
28 February 2014, 12:00 am

The Hanging Shield of Scimitar

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Hoseyb on February 28, 2014, 07:59:33 pm
Looks mint!

maybe a candidate for Autospottertm...

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=568 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=568):thumbsup:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on February 28, 2014, 08:18:38 pm
Quote from: the big G
Observe if you will the time-hungry activities which replace any real joy in the “move”; runners being squidged into cracks, belays being assembled, ropes managed, abseils conducted, descent routes sought, sacs lost - one could go on.

LOL, I'm sure he's tied on to ropes at some time in the past ;)

I like the BOTM feature, it's like a nu-skool and actually comprehensible Jim Perrin.
Title: Enter the Dragon 8A+
Post by: comPiler on March 03, 2014, 06:00:17 pm
Enter the Dragon 8A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=701)
3 March 2014, 12:00 am

Hard line at Tremeirchion from Danny Cattell

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Pints and Pills 7C
Post by: comPiler on March 03, 2014, 06:00:19 pm
Pints and Pills 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=700)
4 March 2014, 12:00 am

More new additions to Manor Crag

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Circus 7A+
Post by: comPiler on March 06, 2014, 06:00:04 pm
Circus 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=702)
6 March 2014, 12:00 am

Dolerite compression prow at Tremadog

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Lad 7C
Post by: comPiler on March 13, 2014, 12:00:08 pm
The Lad 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=703)
13 March 2014, 12:00 am

Isolated problems by upper stretch of Afon Dulyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: New access advice for Angel Bay and West Shore
Post by: comPiler on March 25, 2014, 06:00:09 pm
New access advice for Angel Bay and West Shore (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=704)
25 March 2014, 12:00 am

Take note of seals and rare plants

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: New access advice for Angel Bay and West Shore
Post by: Luke Owens on March 26, 2014, 12:47:13 am
New access advice for Angel Bay and West Shore (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=704)
25 March 2014, 12:00 am

Take note of seals and rare plants

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Cheers for this update! I've stayed away from the bay since I seen seals there in February. Are you actually allowed down there when seals present then?

Title: March 2014 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on March 28, 2014, 12:00:12 am
March 2014 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=705)
27 March 2014, 12:00 am

The Porbeagle of Rhyd Ddu...

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: King of the Swingers 7B+
Post by: comPiler on March 28, 2014, 06:00:05 pm
King of the Swingers 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=706)
28 March 2014, 12:00 am

Amazing dyno on Clogwyn y Wenallt boulders

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on March 28, 2014, 08:42:30 pm
That looks fucking mint for a dyno  :2thumbsup:

Love the girl hula-hooping at the start of the clip too  :)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on March 29, 2014, 10:22:32 am
That looks fucking mint for a dyno  :2thumbsup:

Love the girl hula-hooping at the start of the clip too  :)

Amazing to think that something this good has been sat in plain view for all these years. A fine effort from Mike getting it done.

I agree about Charlie's hula-hooping - sets the film up nicely!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Luke Owens on March 29, 2014, 11:54:14 am
That looks fucking mint for a dyno  :2thumbsup:

Love the girl hula-hooping at the start of the clip too  :)

Amazing to think that something this good has been sat in plain view for all these years. A fine effort from Mike getting it done.

I agree about Charlie's hula-hooping - sets the film up nicely!

It looks awesome! Kieran repeated Cross Therapy on Thursday too!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: tomtom on March 29, 2014, 11:58:17 am
Looks great - though a rather unenthusiastic group of spotters :) maybe been waiting too long or annoyed someone else bagged the FA ;)
Title: The Crimpanzee Traverse 7A
Post by: comPiler on April 15, 2014, 07:00:06 pm
The Crimpanzee Traverse 7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=707)
15 April 2014, 12:00 am

The Indefatigable Boulder

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Arya 7B+
Post by: comPiler on April 17, 2014, 07:00:06 pm
Arya 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=708)
17 April 2014, 12:00 am

Jemma Powell adds steep line at Craig Pont y Pant

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Badger Parade 7C+
Post by: comPiler on April 22, 2014, 07:00:04 pm
Badger Parade 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=709)
22 April 2014, 12:00 am

More Pont y Pant action

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: April 2014 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on April 29, 2014, 01:00:07 pm
April 2014 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=710)
29 April 2014, 12:00 am

The Tyrannosaurus of Craig y Llan

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Compact Culture re-climbed at 8B
Post by: comPiler on May 02, 2014, 07:00:12 pm
Compact Culture re-climbed at 8B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=711)
2 May 2014, 12:00 am

Ned Feehally does 1st ascent after foothold breaks

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Major new boulder developed at Porth Nefoedd
Post by: comPiler on May 05, 2014, 07:00:04 pm
Major new boulder developed at Porth Nefoedd (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=712)
5 May 2014, 12:00 am

Stunning set of problems up to 8A

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on May 05, 2014, 07:10:20 pm
That boulder looks amazing!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on May 05, 2014, 07:15:49 pm
Well that looks alright!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 06, 2014, 07:35:56 am
Might pop down this weekend :)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on May 06, 2014, 10:33:17 am
There's some other good stuff a bit further along the beach (including a cool 7B prow) - I'll try and get a news item online later today.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ducko on May 06, 2014, 03:40:26 pm
Looks very good
Title: Point Break 7B/+
Post by: comPiler on May 07, 2014, 01:00:13 pm
Point Break 7B/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=713)
7 May 2014, 12:00 am

Steep prow at Far Nefoedd

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: a dense loner on May 07, 2014, 05:09:37 pm
point break looks excellent
Title: Ken Masters 8A
Post by: comPiler on May 12, 2014, 01:00:07 pm
Ken Masters 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=714)
12 May 2014, 12:00 am

Danny Cattell climbs new line at the Gop

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: May 2014 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on May 20, 2014, 01:00:05 pm
May 2014 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=715)
20 May 2014, 12:00 am

The Rattle-stone Rock of lower Crimpiau

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Fancypants 7C
Post by: comPiler on May 24, 2014, 01:00:08 pm
Fancypants 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=716)
24 May 2014, 12:00 am

Tough micro problem at Mynydd y Graig

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Mirror Ivy 7A+
Post by: comPiler on May 28, 2014, 01:00:05 pm
Mirror Ivy 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=717)
28 May 2014, 12:00 am

Steep wall at Pen-y-gogo

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Where's My Dildo? 7C+
Post by: comPiler on May 31, 2014, 07:00:03 pm
Where's My Dildo? 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=718)
31 May 2014, 12:00 am

Old Marine Drive project falls to Danny Cattell

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Knockin' on Nefoedd's Door 7A!
Post by: comPiler on June 03, 2014, 01:00:04 pm
Knockin' on Nefoedd's Door 7A! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=719)
3 June 2014, 12:00 am

Highball aręte project falls to Owen Hayward

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: Knockin' on Nefoedd's Door 7A!
Post by: unclesomebody on June 03, 2014, 05:19:02 pm
Where's My Dildo? 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=718)
31 May 2014, 12:00 am

Old Marine Drive project falls to Danny Cattell

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)



Brilliant to see 3 things:
1. Danny still has his Adidas sponsorship deal...
2. After immediately doing the first ascent he declares "Obviously it's a bit shit". What a beautifully british alternative to the more common "That is SO COOL! It's the best thing I've ever climbed! PSYCHED"
3. The videos that youtube suggests at the end based on the name of this video...
Title: Re: Knockin' on Nefoedd's Door 7A!
Post by: Doylo on June 03, 2014, 09:21:36 pm
Where's My Dildo? 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=718)
31 May 2014, 12:00 am

Old Marine Drive project falls to Danny Cattell

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)



Brilliant to see 3 things:
1. Danny still has his Adidas sponsorship deal...
2. After immediately doing the first ascent he declares "Obviously it's a bit shit". What a beautifully british alternative to the more common "That is SO COOL! It's the best thing I've ever climbed! PSYCHED"
3. The videos that youtube suggests at the end based on the name of this video...

At least he's not wearing those old Montrails these days.
Title: La Grand Fissure 7C
Post by: comPiler on June 05, 2014, 01:00:09 pm
La Grand Fissure 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=720)
5 June 2014, 12:00 am

Major new boulder and walls at Parc Dudley

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on June 05, 2014, 01:25:43 pm
This looks amazing!! Props to all involved...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on June 05, 2014, 04:09:37 pm
It's a brilliant find; amazing that Andy stumbled upon it. I reckon even with the detailed approach instructions folk will still get lost looking for it.

We are certainly in the middle of a very fertile period for new developments. There's loads more which I can't spill the beans on yet too (for example, I did a stunning 7Bish highball on Tuesday night).
Title: La Grande Fissure 7C
Post by: comPiler on June 06, 2014, 01:00:03 pm
La Grande Fissure 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=720)
5 June 2014, 12:00 am

Major new boulder and walls at Parc Dudley

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ducko on June 07, 2014, 10:02:53 am
Visited this bloc yesterday, well worth finding the three main problems are amazing. Another great welsh bloc
Title: Mr Crowley 7B
Post by: comPiler on June 09, 2014, 01:00:04 pm
Mr Crowley 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=721)
9 June 2014, 12:00 am

New sitter on Far Nefoedd block

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Innuendo Bingo 8A
Post by: comPiler on June 17, 2014, 01:00:03 pm
Innuendo Bingo 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=722)
17 June 2014, 12:00 am

Arm blasting traverse at Pantymwyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Bantamweight Roof 7A/+
Post by: comPiler on June 18, 2014, 01:00:17 am
The Bantamweight Roof 7A/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=723)
17 June 2014, 12:00 am

New boulder near Aber Falls

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Tenzing 8A/+
Post by: comPiler on June 18, 2014, 01:00:07 pm
Tenzing 8A/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=724)
18 June 2014, 12:00 am

Dan Turner grabs big link on Mallory Boulder

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Oh So Thin 6C+
Post by: comPiler on June 19, 2014, 07:00:19 pm
Oh So Thin 6C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=725)
19 June 2014, 12:00 am

Excellent new problems at Braichmelyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Mônster 8A
Post by: comPiler on June 25, 2014, 01:00:25 am
Mônster 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=726)
24 June 2014, 12:00 am

Major new limestone venue on Anglesey

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Lone Wolf 7B
Post by: comPiler on June 25, 2014, 01:00:11 pm
Lone Wolf 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=727)
25 June 2014, 12:00 am

Tremeirchion crack project falls

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Monolith on June 25, 2014, 02:00:30 pm
Had this as a project for a good while. Shame to lose out on it and not in any way pissing on a bonfire but I always tried and envisaged the line being climbed without the hold around the lip tackling the crack direct via a crossover.

Good effort on the tick to the first ascencionist irrespective.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on June 25, 2014, 09:44:42 pm
Always the bridesmaid Monolith  ;)

Thought it would end up fair bit harder than 7B. The crag is climbed out now I think.
Title: June 2014 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on June 26, 2014, 01:00:04 pm
June 2014 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=728)
26 June 2014, 12:00 am

The Llech Llwynog Shield

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Bara Brith 7C+
Post by: comPiler on June 27, 2014, 01:01:44 am
Bara Brith 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=729)
26 June 2014, 12:00 am

New problems at Clogwyn y Bustach

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Yardbone 7A+, Skunk Yeah! 7A+
Post by: comPiler on July 04, 2014, 07:00:06 pm
Yardbone 7A+, Skunk Yeah! 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=730)
4 July 2014, 12:00 am

Couple of obvious links at Caseg Fraith

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: July 2014 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on July 04, 2014, 07:00:06 pm
July 2014 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=731)
4 July 2014, 12:00 am

The 'Hamlet Block' of Pen-y-Pass

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: petejh on July 04, 2014, 07:24:56 pm
Brilliant!  :clap2:
Title: Pantymwyn Traverse re-climbed 8A/F8b
Post by: comPiler on July 10, 2014, 07:00:03 pm
Pantymwyn Traverse re-climbed 8A/F8b (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=732)
10 July 2014, 12:00 am

Two ascents in two days

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Few copies of North Wales Bouldering available
Post by: comPiler on July 10, 2014, 07:00:03 pm
Few copies of North Wales Bouldering available (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=733)
10 July 2014, 12:00 am

7 copies up for sale on ebay

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: Few copies of North Wales Bouldering available
Post by: Lund on July 11, 2014, 01:32:44 pm
Few copies of North Wales Bouldering available (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=733)
10 July 2014, 12:00 am

7 copies up for sale on ebay

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Whatever happened to the new version?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on July 11, 2014, 03:23:15 pm
Quote
The 'Hamlet Block' of Pen-y-Pass

Big G on thrumping form...

The ‘Boulder Sonnets’

Shakespeare is reputed to have written numerous bouldering sonnets but he did not publish them with his other work as they were not technically sonnets, and also, it is generally agreed, because they weren’t very good at all. Here is one extract as an example:-

Oh rock - thou blim of larval joy
Stout block-oh fruit of glacial grind
Pray, whilst thou lift my heart
And clear my cluttered mind?
Whilst thou, by thy gift
Of sloper, crymp and pump
By shifting shape and shaping shift
Dissolve my worldly grump?
May we away to yonder rocks
To use as other-worldly toys
Out thus - as earnest men
A’n women o’ the world-
Back...as girls and boys

 :clap2:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on July 11, 2014, 04:17:29 pm
Quote
The 'Hamlet Block' of Pen-y-Pass

Big G on thrumping form...

The ‘Boulder Sonnets’

Shakespeare is reputed to have written numerous bouldering sonnets but he did not publish them with his other work as they were not technically sonnets, and also, it is generally agreed, because they weren’t very good at all. Here is one extract as an example:-

Oh rock - thou blim of larval joy
Stout block-oh fruit of glacial grind
Pray, whilst thou lift my heart
And clear my cluttered mind?
Whilst thou, by thy gift
Of sloper, crymp and pump
By shifting shape and shaping shift
Dissolve my worldly grump?
May we away to yonder rocks
To use as other-worldly toys
Out thus - as earnest men
A’n women o’ the world-
Back...as girls and boys

 :clap2:

No let up in the quality from our man - I was chuckling away to myself while loading that one to the site.  ;D
Title: Re: Few copies of North Wales Bouldering available
Post by: Pantontino on July 11, 2014, 04:18:39 pm
Few copies of North Wales Bouldering available (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=733)
10 July 2014, 12:00 am

7 copies up for sale on ebay

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Whatever happened to the new version?

Still working on it. Can't commit fully to it until Gogarth South goes to printers (which will hopefully be soon).
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on July 11, 2014, 04:42:50 pm
Bloody Gogarth, do one!  :ras:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: petejh on July 12, 2014, 09:56:34 am
Its potential as a bouldering venue has never been fully realised.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on July 12, 2014, 05:00:46 pm
Indeed, but a bigger problem for me is the ever growing volume of new bouldering areas. There's so much going on at the moment it's hard to keep up. I wouldn't mind if they were all rubbish I could just disregard them (and I'm already disregarding a lot of 'local interest' stuff). The thing is, most of the new wave that I've sampled or been involved with is really excellent quality.

It feels like another golden age for North Wales at the moment. Even JR is psyched out of his mind for bouldering these days!
Title: Ropes of Maui 8B
Post by: comPiler on July 16, 2014, 01:00:05 pm
Ropes of Maui 8B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=734)
16 July 2014, 12:00 am

Barrel Cave project falls to Robins

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Cheech Marin stand up re-climbed at 7C+
Post by: comPiler on August 15, 2014, 04:29:46 pm
Cheech Marin stand up re-climbed at 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=735)
9 August 2014, 12:00 am

Dave Noden re-establishes broken classic

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: It's All Pop traverse start 7B+
Post by: comPiler on August 15, 2014, 04:29:46 pm
It's All Pop traverse start 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=736)
15 August 2014, 12:00 am

New traverse link on Drws y Coed Pop Block

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: One for the Road 8A+
Post by: comPiler on September 04, 2014, 07:00:16 am
One for the Road 8A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=737)
21 August 2014, 12:00 am

Last big link falls on Pill Box Wall

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: August 2014 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on September 04, 2014, 07:00:16 am
August 2014 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=738)
28 August 2014, 12:00 am

The Ucheldre Boulder

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: New block developed in Beddgelert Forest
Post by: comPiler on September 06, 2014, 07:00:03 pm
New block developed in Beddgelert Forest (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=739)
6 September 2014, 12:00 am

Another dolerite beauty

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Ropes of Maui 8B gets a repeat
Post by: comPiler on September 10, 2014, 01:00:13 pm
Ropes of Maui 8B gets a repeat (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=740)
10 September 2014, 12:00 am

2nd ascent goes to Dom Bridgwood

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: More new problems at Clogwyn y Bustach
Post by: comPiler on September 20, 2014, 07:00:14 pm
More new problems at Clogwyn y Bustach (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=741)
20 September 2014, 12:00 am

6s and 7s circuit doubles in size

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Under the Bridge sds 7C
Post by: comPiler on October 02, 2014, 12:30:51 am
Under the Bridge sds 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=742)
23 September 2014, 12:00 am

Dry period prompts Pantymwyn additions

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: September 2014 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on October 02, 2014, 12:30:51 am
September 2014 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=743)
29 September 2014, 12:00 am

The Nant Peris Cobbler

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Jemma Powell repeats Corridors of Power 8A
Post by: comPiler on October 03, 2014, 07:00:03 pm
Jemma Powell repeats Corridors of Power 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=744)
3 October 2014, 12:00 am

First female ascent of in-vogue test piece

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Prowed Slab 7A
Post by: comPiler on October 11, 2014, 07:00:14 pm
Prowed Slab 7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=745)
11 October 2014, 12:00 am

New sitter on main Caseg Boulder

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Rib Crackin' Good 7A+!
Post by: comPiler on October 18, 2014, 01:00:35 pm
Rib Crackin' Good 7A+! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=746)
18 October 2014, 12:00 am

Another superb highball in Beddgelert Forest

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Bryn Hel bonanza!
Post by: comPiler on October 18, 2014, 07:00:12 pm
Bryn Hel bonanza! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=747)
18 October 2014, 12:00 am

Quality grade 6 + 7 problems in Cwm Glas Bach

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: October 2014 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on October 25, 2014, 07:00:21 pm
October 2014 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=748)
25 October 2014, 12:00 am

The Stone Bubble of Betws

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Dead and Bloated 8B
Post by: comPiler on October 27, 2014, 12:00:15 pm
Dead and Bloated 8B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=749)
27 October 2014, 12:00 am

Tom Williams climbs sds to The Tracks

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on October 31, 2014, 08:38:16 am
Quote
October 2014 Boulder of the Month
25 October 2014, 12:00 am

The Stone Bubble of Betws

Source: North Wales Bouldering

Is this about as close as nature's ever going to get to Farley's dream of a mantel rink?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on December 01, 2014, 09:54:26 am
Seems Compiler has missed the latest genius ramblings of Big G (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=750)...?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on December 01, 2014, 05:25:18 pm
Quote
October 2014 Boulder of the Month
25 October 2014, 12:00 am

The Stone Bubble of Betws

Source: North Wales Bouldering

Is this about as close as nature's ever going to get to Farley's dream of a mantel rink?

I noticed this about a week before Big G sent in his October 'letter to the readers' and chuckled to myself thinking that it would likely one day appear in a Boulder of the month. Couldn't believe it when I read his piece - it's like he's reading my mind. Witchcraft!
Title: November 2014 boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2014, 07:22:49 am
November 2014 boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=750)
26 November 2014, 12:00 am

The Blim-Cluster of Llyn Cwmffynnon stream

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on December 08, 2014, 11:39:50 am
Finally!  :bow:
Title: December 2014 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on December 30, 2014, 06:00:05 pm
December 2014 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=751)
30 December 2014, 12:00 am

The Dustbin Boulders of of Cwm Pennant

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: ill Manors 7A
Post by: comPiler on January 03, 2015, 06:00:02 pm
ill Manors 7A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=752)
3 January 2015, 12:00 am

Ace new sloper problem at Manor Crag

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Number of the Beast sds 7C
Post by: comPiler on January 07, 2015, 06:00:13 pm
Number of the Beast sds 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=753)
7 January 2015, 12:00 am

New problems at Porth Nefoedd

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Pocket Rocket 7A/+
Post by: comPiler on January 09, 2015, 12:00:18 am
Pocket Rocket 7A/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=754)
8 January 2015, 12:00 am

Fisherman's View Boulders at Mynydd y Graig

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Sexy Beast 7C
Post by: comPiler on January 12, 2015, 12:00:15 am
Sexy Beast 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=755)
10 January 2015, 12:00 am

Nefoedd slab project falls to Robins

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Bane sds 7B, Slasher 7A+/B
Post by: comPiler on January 19, 2015, 12:00:13 am
Bane sds 7B, Slasher 7A+/B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=756)
18 January 2015, 12:00 am

Nefoedd projects continue to fall

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Larsen 7B+
Post by: comPiler on January 24, 2015, 12:00:20 am
Larsen 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=757)
23 January 2015, 12:00 am

Lots of new 7s at east side of Porth Ysgo

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Dark Knight sds 7C, Holy Cow start 7B
Post by: comPiler on January 24, 2015, 06:00:18 pm
The Dark Knight sds 7C, Holy Cow start 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=758)
24 January 2015, 12:00 am

More new problems in Porth Nefoedd Bat Cave

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on January 27, 2015, 09:55:53 pm
Neat looking stuff that.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Monolith on January 27, 2015, 10:15:46 pm
Plenty of good stuff coming out over the last few months. Might start climbing again!
Title: January 2015 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on February 03, 2015, 12:00:34 am
January 2015 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=759)
31 January 2015, 12:00 am

The Choss-Protrusion of Criccieth Yonder

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Thagomizer-Larsen 7C
Post by: comPiler on February 03, 2015, 12:00:34 am
Thagomizer-Larsen 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=760)
1 February 2015, 12:00 am

Couple of good new links at Porth Ysgo

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Seams Choughed Direct 7B+
Post by: comPiler on February 07, 2015, 06:00:14 pm
Seams Choughed Direct 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=761)
7 February 2015, 12:00 am

Robins grabs another Nefoedd beauty!

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Tusken Raiders 7B+
Post by: comPiler on February 26, 2015, 09:22:05 pm
Tusken Raiders 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=762)
16 February 2015, 12:00 am

Brace of new 7s at Manor Crag

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Mallory Boulder and beyond
Post by: comPiler on February 26, 2015, 09:22:06 pm
The Mallory Boulder and beyond (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=763)
21 February 2015, 12:00 am

Half a dozen new 6s and 7s

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Dabber the Hut 7C, Storm Trooper 7B+
Post by: comPiler on March 09, 2015, 01:58:42 am
Dabber the Hut 7C, Storm Trooper 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=764)
2 March 2015, 12:00 am

More Manor Crag action

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: February 2015 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on March 09, 2015, 01:58:43 am
February 2015 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=765)
3 March 2015, 12:00 am

The Desolation Boulders of Northern Llechog

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Mars One 7B+
Post by: comPiler on March 10, 2015, 12:00:39 am
Mars One 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=766)
9 March 2015, 12:00 am

Stunning groove line in Braichmelyn woods

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: March 2015 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on March 25, 2015, 12:00:20 am
March 2015 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=767)
24 March 2015, 12:00 am

The lost trundle-blims of Bwlch Mawr

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Manor Traverse 7C+
Post by: comPiler on March 28, 2015, 07:00:13 pm
The Manor Traverse 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=768)
28 March 2015, 12:00 am

30+ move epic from Chris Doyle

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Enter the Flag 8A
Post by: comPiler on April 02, 2015, 07:00:15 pm
Enter the Flag 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=769)
3 April 2015, 1:00 am

Cool link at Craig Ty Mawr

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: April 2015 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on May 02, 2015, 01:00:30 am
April 2015 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=770)
29 April 2015, 1:00 am

The Rock-Buns of Upper Carreg Mianog

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Prowess 7B+
Post by: comPiler on May 02, 2015, 07:00:15 pm
Prowess 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=771)
2 May 2015, 1:00 am

Batch of new problems in Bryn Engan woods

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Sail the Seven Slopes 7A+
Post by: comPiler on May 19, 2015, 07:00:22 pm
Sail the Seven Slopes 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=772)
18 May 2015, 1:00 am

New dolerite boulder in Crafnant valley

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Methanoic Acid 7A+
Post by: comPiler on June 04, 2015, 07:00:16 pm
Methanoic Acid 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=773)
21 May 2015, 1:00 am

New line at NE Wales lime venue

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Trwyn Talfarach surge - stacks of new problems!
Post by: comPiler on June 04, 2015, 07:00:16 pm
Trwyn Talfarach surge - stacks of new problems! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=775)
21 May 2015, 1:00 am

Owen Hayward blitzes Llŷn crag

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: May 2015 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on June 04, 2015, 07:00:16 pm
May 2015 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=777)
31 May 2015, 1:00 am

The Lost Crystalline Spires of Cwm Padrig

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Break on Through 7A/+
Post by: comPiler on June 04, 2015, 07:00:16 pm
Break on Through 7A/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=776)
31 May 2015, 1:00 am

Excellent new line at Tan y Grisiau

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Piethe of Pith 7A+!
Post by: comPiler on June 04, 2015, 07:00:16 pm
Piethe of Pith 7A+! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=778)
1 June 2015, 1:00 am

Amazing highball wall at Talfarach

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Diggingest Dog 7A+
Post by: comPiler on June 17, 2015, 01:00:23 am
The Diggingest Dog 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=779)
13 June 2015, 1:00 am

Lots of new Sheep Pen additions

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Sheep Pen development update
Post by: comPiler on June 24, 2015, 05:57:03 pm
Sheep Pen development update (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=780)
20 June 2015, 1:00 am

New extensions and FA corrections

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Schoolboy Error 7A+!, Schoolboy Traverse 7A+
Post by: comPiler on June 24, 2015, 05:57:03 pm
Schoolboy Error 7A+!, Schoolboy Traverse 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=781)
20 June 2015, 1:00 am

Fachwen secrets revealed

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: More Sheep Pen action
Post by: comPiler on June 27, 2015, 07:00:29 pm
More Sheep Pen action (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=782)
27 June 2015, 1:00 am

Neat 7A, plus 7B/+ and 7C extensions

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Hongian bouldering website launched
Post by: comPiler on June 27, 2015, 07:00:29 pm
Hongian bouldering website launched (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=783)
27 June 2015, 1:00 am

10 online guides to Blaenau and Bethesda areas

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on June 29, 2015, 12:08:59 pm
With all these topos printed out, bouldering in North Wales is starting to feel like bouldering in The Lake (District)!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on June 29, 2015, 12:35:18 pm
I know, but don't worry, the 2nd edition of the NWB guidebook is coming...I will not rest until it is finished!
Title: Arnold is Numero Uno 7A/+
Post by: comPiler on June 29, 2015, 01:00:17 pm
Arnold is Numero Uno 7A/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=784)
29 June 2015, 1:00 am

New line at right side of Tremeirchion

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on June 30, 2015, 08:50:02 am
I'm frankly outraged that confirmed sport helm and massively outspoken hater of bouldering Maaaaat (say it like a cockney) Welsh has been bouldering!! Thanks to Rich for sorting the problem out and making it proper. That is all...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: JohnM on June 30, 2015, 02:50:21 pm
Seriously what is going on?  Matt Welsh?  What was he even doing there?  Anyway don't trust his grade as he thought the crux at the top of a 50 m sport route in Kalymnos was V5! :lol:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on June 30, 2015, 03:39:15 pm
It's my understanding that he binned off a trip to Malham with Donnelly and ended up there!! Wonders will never cease....
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on June 30, 2015, 04:31:39 pm
Seriously what is going on?  Matt Welsh?  What was he even doing there?  Anyway don't trust his grade as he thought the crux at the top of a 50 m sport route in Kalymnos was V5! :lol:

Was it a 8c+? Could be  :shrug:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: BenF on July 05, 2015, 09:58:27 am
Seriously what is going on?  Matt Welsh?  What was he even doing there?  Anyway don't trust his grade as he thought the crux at the top of a 50 m sport route in Kalymnos was V5! :lol:

I know, it's mental. I went to LPT last Saturday and Matt was in the cave. Really good conditions down there but no, Matt was in the cave. It won't last, he fell off Parisella's Original with the heel-toe fully locked in and missed the huge stack of mats he had placed in the wrong spot. Matt landed on his back in the dirt, covered himself in cuts, and so I can't imagine he will be rushing back again.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on July 06, 2015, 09:06:16 am
 :lol: :lol: :lol:
Title: June 2015 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on July 12, 2015, 04:03:27 am
June 2015 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=785)
30 June 2015, 1:00 am

The Trearddur Ghost-Cave

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on August 10, 2015, 09:45:45 am
Come on compiler! Got some Crouch heckling to do!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on August 14, 2015, 12:15:31 pm
Given that Compiler is clearly on holiday... A thoroughly well named problem from Mr Crouch! But 7b/+? :-\

60 All Out! 7B/+ - 08/08/2015
 
Rich demonstrating 60 All Out! 7B/+ Photos: Laura

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/60%20all%20out%201.jpg)

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/60%20all%20out%202.jpg)

Rich Hession has climbed a cool looking line at Trwyn Talfarach. 60 All Out! 7B/+ starts as for Problem 42 (in Area 2) matched on the lowest undercuts in the roof. Slap straight out left to a lip sloper and use the large fin/flake jug for a big right toe-hook. Keep going left along some small pinches and dimples into the rising crack line via some burly moves. When you get the good bit of the break/crack, finish directly up the groove via lots of good holds (Problem 41).

“It's a bit eliminate as it avoids using the big flake for hands at the start but it makes perfect sense when climbing it and flows very well. It felt in the 7B/+ ballpark. but may feel a lot easier in winter I guess. Eliminating the big fin/flake all together will be possible, but significantly harder!” Said Rich.   
     

    
 
Title: Tal y Fan
Post by: comPiler on August 21, 2015, 07:00:14 am
Tal y Fan (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=787)
31 July 2015, 1:00 am

New venue in northern Carneddau

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: July 2015 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on August 21, 2015, 07:00:15 am
July 2015 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=786)
31 July 2015, 1:00 am

The Llyn Peris 'Submarine'

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Mymbyr Boulder
Post by: comPiler on August 21, 2015, 07:00:15 am
Mymbyr Boulder (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=788)
2 August 2015, 1:00 am

6 lines up to 7B+ on PyB woods boulder

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: 60 All Out! 7B/+
Post by: comPiler on August 21, 2015, 07:00:15 am
60 All Out! 7B/+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=789)
8 August 2015, 1:00 am

New line at Talfarach

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: August 2015 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on September 09, 2015, 07:00:03 am
August 2015 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=790)
6 September 2015, 1:00 am

Craig y Goodman

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Maes Newyddion access issue
Post by: comPiler on September 09, 2015, 07:00:05 am
Maes Newyddion access issue (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=791)
6 September 2015, 1:00 am

Parking problem for Roof of the Baby Buddha

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Further development at Tal y Fan
Post by: comPiler on September 13, 2015, 07:00:07 pm
Further development at Tal y Fan (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=792)
13 September 2015, 1:00 am

More new problems and eliminates

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on September 15, 2015, 12:02:31 pm
Si, it may be just me, but the link to the updated Tal Y Fan topo is broken?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: dontfollowme on September 15, 2015, 01:33:50 pm
Broken for me too.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on September 15, 2015, 01:43:45 pm
+1, like, etc.
Title: Here's to the Kings 7B+!
Post by: comPiler on September 27, 2015, 01:00:07 pm
Here's to the Kings 7B+! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=793)
27 September 2015, 1:00 am

Big highball on Llech Ddu boulders

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: September 2015 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on October 23, 2015, 01:00:32 am
September 2015 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=794)
10 October 2015, 1:00 am

The Great Spire

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Proctor Tribute Traverse 7B+
Post by: comPiler on October 23, 2015, 01:00:33 am
Proctor Tribute Traverse 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=795)
11 October 2015, 1:00 am

Full  trav at Pantymwyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: October 2015 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on November 12, 2015, 03:07:39 am
October 2015 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=796)
27 October 2015, 12:00 am

The Memorial Pinnacle of Blaenau Ffestiniog

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: These Foolish Clings 7A+
Post by: comPiler on November 12, 2015, 03:07:39 am
These Foolish Clings 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=797)
28 October 2015, 12:00 am

Epic traverse line on Hylldrem Left Hand

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: It Came from Beneath 7A+
Post by: comPiler on November 12, 2015, 03:07:39 am
It Came from Beneath 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=798)
8 November 2015, 12:00 am

Another Talfarach addition

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on November 12, 2015, 10:18:38 am
First crux of Foolish Things (6C I thought):

(http://midwalesclimbing.com/attachments/Image/rob_on_campus_web.jpeg)

Martin on the second crux (also 6C but maybe 6B+ in cold temps):

(http://midwalesclimbing.com/attachments/Image/mc_on_these_foolish_clings_web.jpeg)

Also got a photo of Terry Taylor having a cup of tea in the sitting rest  :)
Title: Fancypants - Pants link 7C
Post by: comPiler on November 25, 2015, 07:00:03 am
Fancypants - Pants link 7C (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=799)
13 November 2015, 12:00 am

Obvious connection at Mynydd y Graig

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Fancypants - Pants link 7B
Post by: comPiler on December 10, 2015, 09:09:02 pm
Fancypants - Pants link 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=799)
13 November 2015, 12:00 am

Obvious connection at Mynydd y Graig

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Gasoline in Yer Face 7B
Post by: comPiler on December 10, 2015, 09:09:04 pm
Gasoline in Yer Face 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=800)
28 November 2015, 12:00 am

New link at Pantymwyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Luke Owens on December 11, 2015, 12:22:53 am
Owen did that link awhile back:

http://vimeo.com/110944783
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on December 12, 2015, 02:21:05 pm
Fair enough - I suspected that somebody would have already done it.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on December 12, 2015, 06:07:12 pm
I've added an update note and the film to the news item.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Luke Owens on December 13, 2015, 01:29:36 am
Nice one Si, there's another good couple of link ups too, such as starting for Pyrotechnique then doing the move on Gasoline Stand to take a rightwards traverse into the finsih of Firestarter at 7B+ named "Flamethrower" and another starting as for Gasoline Direct to the big move and finishing right to the finish of Firestarter at 7C named "Firebreather".
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on December 13, 2015, 11:00:10 am
The most developed section of rock in Wales.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: ducko on December 13, 2015, 05:05:37 pm
Sure someone will squeeze a few more in  :ras:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Luke Owens on December 13, 2015, 09:36:11 pm
At least theirs no eliminates... Yet!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: r-man on December 17, 2015, 06:06:34 pm
In related news, I see Pantontino was one letter away from climbing an 8C...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70146
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Pantontino on December 30, 2015, 05:24:00 pm
In related news, I see Pantontino was one letter away from climbing an 8C...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70146

I must admit i did feel a slight twinge of reflected glory seeing my 'almost name' associated with such a big number ascent - guess it's the nearest I'll ever get!
Title: November 2015 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on January 03, 2016, 01:00:02 pm
November 2015 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=801)
12 December 2015, 12:00 am

The Pen Llyn Cave

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: December 2015 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on January 03, 2016, 01:00:02 pm
December 2015 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=802)
30 December 2015, 12:00 am

The Great Cave of Porth y Gwyddel

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: January 2016 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on February 23, 2016, 07:00:07 pm
January 2016 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=803)
7 February 2016, 12:00 am

The 'Perfect' wall of Marchlyn Bach

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: February 2016 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on March 07, 2016, 05:26:29 pm
February 2016 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=804)
6 March 2016, 12:00 am

Palm Springs

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Snapdragon 8A/8a+ repeated
Post by: comPiler on March 15, 2016, 01:00:16 am
Snapdragon 8A/8a+ repeated (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=811)
8 March 2016, 12:00 am

Ducko tames the Ogwen dragon

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Trio of new 7A+s at Sheep Pen
Post by: comPiler on March 15, 2016, 01:00:17 am
Trio of new 7A+s at Sheep Pen (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=810)
8 March 2016, 12:00 am

The A Frame: nifty new block

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Miao Yin 7A+
Post by: comPiler on March 15, 2016, 01:00:17 am
Miao Yin 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=812)
12 March 2016, 12:00 am

More fun at Penmaenbach

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Chang Sing 7B
Post by: comPiler on March 15, 2016, 01:00:17 am
Chang Sing 7B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=813)
14 March 2016, 12:00 am

More Penmaenbach action

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Coxsey crushes 8B
Post by: comPiler on April 20, 2016, 05:34:07 pm
Coxsey crushes  8B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=818)
5 April 2016, 1:00 am

Significant repeat in the Barrel Cave

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Pete and Dan's BIG Talfarach day out
Post by: comPiler on April 20, 2016, 05:34:08 pm
Pete and Dan's BIG Talfarach day out (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=817)
9 April 2016, 1:00 am

New problem bonanza in area 1

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: March 2016 Boulder of 'a' month
Post by: comPiler on April 20, 2016, 05:34:09 pm
March 2016 Boulder of 'a' month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=819)
16 April 2016, 1:00 am

The lost faces

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Groove Technician 7A+
Post by: comPiler on April 20, 2016, 05:34:09 pm
Groove Technician 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=820)
17 April 2016, 1:00 am

Another new Talfarach line

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: New 7A and 6C+ at Talfarach area 1
Post by: comPiler on April 22, 2016, 01:00:20 am
New 7A and 6C+ at Talfarach area 1 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=824)
18 April 2016, 1:00 am

Callum Muskett climbs 2 new lines

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Belly of the Beast 7A+...ish
Post by: comPiler on April 22, 2016, 01:00:21 am
Belly of the Beast 7A+...ish (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=823)
19 April 2016, 1:00 am

More Talfarach action

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Robins and Feehally punter grades shocker at Ysgo!
Post by: comPiler on April 22, 2016, 01:00:21 am
Robins and Feehally punter grades shocker at Ysgo! (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=821)
19 April 2016, 1:00 am

New additions by the bumpy boys

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Waveform 8A+
Post by: comPiler on April 22, 2016, 01:00:21 am
Waveform 8A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=822)
20 April 2016, 1:00 am

Crafnant's hardest falls to Feehally

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Duma on April 22, 2016, 03:59:41 am
So is this harder than My Own Private Idaho then?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Richie Crouch on April 22, 2016, 09:57:19 am
 :worms: :popcorn:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Duma on April 22, 2016, 10:33:29 am
Though I suppose ned wouldn't know since he's not done it...   ;-)
Title: Big Orange gets a repeat...and tall man's regrade
Post by: comPiler on April 26, 2016, 01:00:03 pm
Big Orange gets a repeat...and tall man's regrade (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=825)
24 April 2016, 1:00 am

Dan McManus lanks a new, slightly easier sequence

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Lund on April 28, 2016, 04:36:16 pm
I'd love to go to N. Wales soon and do some new problems - there's been so much development going on.

However, there's no guidebook and I've no idea how to find all these problems - is there a resource somewhere?  When's the guidebook?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: dontfollowme on April 28, 2016, 04:49:27 pm
Could Vertebrate Publishing help out I wonder?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: joeisidle on April 28, 2016, 05:08:24 pm
I'd love to go to N. Wales soon and do some new problems - there's been so much development going on.

However, there's no guidebook and I've no idea how to find all these problems - is there a resource somewhere?  When's the guidebook?

FWIW I remember going to North Wales in 2011 and being told by someone in V12 that the guide would definitely be out the following year.

If you want to see some of what North Wales has to offer then Boulder Britain and the Climbers Club guides have some limited coverage of the main areas and there's a few minor topos available on the North Wales Bouldering site. I've generally found that between UKC crag pages, extensive video research and a copy of the old North Wales Bouldering guide you can enjoy some of the new spots, but the old guide's out of print making this harder for those who didn't pick one up and it's a lot of effort to do this if you're not local. Alternatively kidnap a local I guess :shrug:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Doylo on April 28, 2016, 05:29:16 pm
Hopefully this year. Pantons sending out pages for feedback every week so it is coming together, massive job though.  The whole things been slowed down by him working full time.
Title: April 2016 Boulder of 'a' Month
Post by: comPiler on May 08, 2016, 01:00:02 pm
April 2016 Boulder of 'a' Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=826)
8 May 2016, 1:00 am

The Standing Stone of Mynedd Llandegai

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Walrus of Love 7A+
Post by: comPiler on June 01, 2016, 07:00:27 pm
The Walrus of Love 7A+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=827)
31 May 2016, 1:00 am

Tal y Fan action

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: May 2016 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on June 05, 2016, 07:00:03 pm
May 2016 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=828)
5 June 2016, 1:00 am

THE 'CONCRETE JUMBLE' of NANT PERIS

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: The Price is Wrong Bob 7B...ish
Post by: comPiler on June 06, 2016, 07:00:04 pm
The Price is Wrong Bob 7B...ish (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=829)
4 June 2016, 1:00 am

Hession newbies at Gallt yr Ogof

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: The Price is Wrong Bob 7B...ish
Post by: the_dom on June 06, 2016, 09:49:45 pm
The Price is Wrong Bob 7B...ish (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=829)
4 June 2016, 1:00 am

Hession newbies at Gallt yr Ogof

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Happy Gilmour ftw.
Title: Mega couple of days for.....Megos
Post by: comPiler on June 28, 2016, 01:00:03 pm
Mega couple of days for.....Megos (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=830)
11 June 2016, 1:00 am

Megos' North Wales tour dates report

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Monolith on June 28, 2016, 01:47:59 pm
Perhaps the most amazing news is that Hession has taken a photo! His 500 year old phone broke recently I heard? Surely you don't have an iphone fatlad!?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Richie Crouch on June 28, 2016, 11:08:53 pm
Hah, I can assure you that the phone lives! I found one of those bulky picture taking cubic objects and uploaded it to a pc using a cable, then Microsoft paint to edit the image to a small enough size.. Long live the mid 90's tech skills!
Title: June 2016 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on August 03, 2016, 03:46:33 pm
June 2016 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=831)
2 August 2016, 1:00 am

The Capel 'Shroom'

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Boulder of the Month July 2016
Post by: comPiler on August 20, 2016, 07:00:14 pm
Boulder of the Month July 2016 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=832)
20 August 2016, 1:00 am

The Cardinal Block of 'Upper Mabinogion'

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: August 2016 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on October 04, 2016, 07:00:25 am
August 2016 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=833)
30 September 2016, 1:00 am

The Hippo of Craig y Castell

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: September 2016 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on October 18, 2016, 12:44:22 am
September 2016 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=834)
12 October 2016, 1:00 am

The Wide-Mouthed Frog of Castell y Geifr

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: October 2016 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on October 28, 2016, 01:00:07 pm
October 2016 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=835)
28 October 2016, 1:00 am

The Dolerite Dome of Upper Pant Ifan

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Porth ty Mawr and Porth Dinllaen: new Llyn areas
Post by: comPiler on November 01, 2016, 01:00:04 pm
Porth ty Mawr and Porth Dinllaen: new Llyn areas (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=836)
1 November 2016, 12:00 am

Scouse raiders discover new North Llyn areas

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Summary of recent action
Post by: comPiler on November 01, 2016, 01:00:04 pm
Summary of recent action (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=837)
1 November 2016, 12:00 am

Stacks of brilliant new probs climbed

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: bigironhorse on November 01, 2016, 03:59:37 pm
That cut loose on The King looks absolutley mega!   :strongbench:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: slackline on November 01, 2016, 04:26:41 pm
Missed out this one...

https://vimeo.com/189631770
Title: Anthropoid 7C+
Post by: comPiler on November 01, 2016, 07:00:10 pm
Anthropoid 7C+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=838)
1 November 2016, 12:00 am

Porth Ysgo beaut for Robins

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on November 02, 2016, 10:53:52 am
Quote from: NWB
Scouse raiders discover new North Llyn areas

Very pleased with these problems, particularly the Porth ty Mawr stuff. Lovely rock, get to it!!!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy_e on November 02, 2016, 11:24:10 am
Good work lid. Shipwreck Prow looks supreme.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on November 02, 2016, 11:59:58 am
Definitely the best problem I've ever FA'd and possible the best problem I've ever done!!  :bounce:

(https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5468/30694418586_c3103587a5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NLmVgy) (https://flic.kr/p/NLmVgy)

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5648/30731461145_497f82c785_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NPCLJn) (https://flic.kr/p/NPCLJn)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy popp on November 02, 2016, 12:01:14 pm
Nice work Si!
Title: Porth Ty Mawr and Porth Dinllaen
Post by: comPiler on November 02, 2016, 01:00:05 pm
Porth Ty Mawr and Porth Dinllaen (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=836)
1 November 2016, 12:00 am

New North Llŷn areas

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Big Trouble in Little China low 7B+
Post by: comPiler on November 13, 2016, 01:00:27 am
Big Trouble in Little China low 7B+ (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=839)
12 November 2016, 12:00 am

Good lower start to Doylo's mini-classic

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: 6 of the best at Ysgo for Robins
Post by: comPiler on November 14, 2016, 01:00:02 pm
6 of the best at Ysgo for Robins (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=840)
14 November 2016, 12:00 am

6C+, 7A+!!, 7B+!, 7B, 7B and 7B+

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: November 2016 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on December 05, 2016, 02:20:24 am
November 2016 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=841)
30 November 2016, 12:00 am

The 'Badgers Thumbstone'

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Talfarach action for Robins
Post by: comPiler on December 05, 2016, 02:20:24 am
Talfarach action for Robins (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=842)
3 December 2016, 12:00 am

Four new cool 7B to 7Cs

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: December 2016 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on January 02, 2017, 07:00:04 pm
December 2016 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=843)
2 January 2017, 12:00 am

The 'Eastern Block' of Lower Crimpiau

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: New problem teasers 2
Post by: comPiler on January 13, 2017, 01:00:15 pm
New problem teasers 2 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=845)
13 January 2017, 12:00 am

Video links of recent probs

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: New problem teasers 3
Post by: comPiler on January 13, 2017, 01:00:16 pm
New problem teasers 3 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=846)
13 January 2017, 12:00 am

Video links of recent problems

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: New problem teasers 11
Post by: comPiler on January 13, 2017, 01:00:16 pm
New problem teasers 11 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=844)
13 January 2017, 12:00 am

Video links of recent probs

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: New problem teasers 1
Post by: comPiler on January 13, 2017, 07:00:10 pm
New problem teasers 1 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=844)
13 January 2017, 12:00 am

Video links of recent probs

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Agent Orange 8A
Post by: comPiler on January 14, 2017, 01:00:16 am
Agent Orange 8A (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=847)
13 January 2017, 12:00 am

Another brilliant Talfarach testpiece

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: January 2017 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on February 11, 2017, 07:00:10 pm
January 2017 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=848)
11 February 2017, 12:00 am

The Cosmic Shard of Penrhyndeudraeth

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: February 2017 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on March 11, 2017, 07:00:03 pm
February 2017 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=849)
11 March 2017, 12:00 am

The Gesail Roof

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on March 11, 2017, 07:16:09 pm
 :o :w00t: Hosey, your time!!

Talking of which, when are you getting a Hosey B guest special for BOTM??
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Hoseyb on March 11, 2017, 08:47:06 pm
I give away enough on my own blog.  However texts have been dispatched,  maybe G or Crook will give me some directions...
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Hoseyb on March 15, 2017, 03:48:26 pm
The deed is done!went with Martin Crook and Glenn Robbins. A very enjoyable invert with a quite balancy pivot.  Blog will follow shortly after Glenn gets me some pics.
 :punk:
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Fiend on March 15, 2017, 07:00:15 pm
Nice one! Social networking in action. Well that and offwidth skills.
Title: March 2017 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on April 17, 2017, 07:00:09 pm
March 2017 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=850)
17 April 2017, 1:00 am

The Jungle Walls of Northern Moel y Gest

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: April 2017 Boulder of the Month
Post by: comPiler on May 29, 2017, 07:00:10 pm
April 2017 Boulder of the Month (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=851)
29 May 2017, 1:00 am

The Sun-worship Walls of Craig Penlan

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy popp on May 29, 2017, 08:38:07 pm
"little more than a series of fairly serious trip hazards for sheep." A particularly fine Smithism.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: duncan on May 29, 2017, 09:59:25 pm
Mat Management in a Changing World (BMC advisory leaflet)  :)
Title: Coed Maesnewyddion approach error
Post by: comPiler on September 04, 2017, 01:00:46 am
Coed Maesnewyddion approach error (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=852)
3 September 2017, 1:00 am

Correction to guidebook description

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: 205Chris on September 04, 2017, 04:22:06 am
If you're after corrections the GPS co-ordinates for Crafnant are wrong too. Looks like a copy and paste error from the preceeding crag in the guide.
Title: Post-guide first ascent surge
Post by: comPiler on September 30, 2017, 07:00:14 pm
Post-guide first ascent surge (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=853)
30 September 2017, 1:00 am

Brace of new lines up to 8A

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Palmieri blitzes Parisella's
Post by: comPiler on October 10, 2017, 01:02:34 am
Palmieri blitzes Parisella's (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=854)
9 October 2017, 1:00 am

New Cave links up to 8B+

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy_e on October 10, 2017, 10:41:09 am
The most impressive thing of all of it is that he manages to live in Bury and not have all the psyche slowly drained from him.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Luke Owens on October 10, 2017, 02:42:53 pm
The most impressive thing of all of it is that he manages to live in Bury and not have all the psyche slowly drained from him.

Palmieri is definitely one with the Cave, strong psyche!

I played a few metal gigs in Bury a fair few years ago, Hark to Towler I think the pub was called. Interesting place!
Title: Carys 7A+/B
Post by: comPiler on October 14, 2017, 07:00:23 pm
Carys 7A+/B (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=855)
14 October 2017, 1:00 am

Huffy returns to Nant Ffrancon

Source: North Wales Bouldering (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/)

Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: User deactivated on October 15, 2017, 02:48:38 pm
The most impressive thing of all of it is that he manages to live in Bury and not have all the psyche slowly drained from him.

Haha, living in Bury can be a drain on the psych every now and again, plans are afoot to move closer to some rock thankfully.

Palmieri is definitely one with the Cave, strong psyche!

I played a few metal gigs in Bury a fair few years ago, Hark to Towler I think the pub was called. Interesting place!

Cheers Luke. The pub you mention is in Walmersley, not that far from me, interesting is one way of putting it for sure.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: andy_e on October 16, 2017, 03:45:10 pm
Ah, I was trying to remember where it was, there used to be a Hark to Towler in Tottington too if I remember correctly.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: User deactivated on October 16, 2017, 04:27:53 pm
Ah, I was trying to remember where it was, there used to be a Hark to Towler in Tottington too if I remember correctly.

Shit yeah, surprised I forgot there is one there too (frequented on my high school dinners for a game of pool, seems many moons ago now), guess either are plausible for Luke's gig, Tottington is a bit of a nicer place and probably not as 'interesting'. Both pale in comparison to living in Oswaldtwistle for a year or so.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: r-man on October 17, 2017, 11:29:55 am


Haha, living in Bury can be a drain on the psych every now and again, plans are afoot to move closer to some rock thankfully.


There is rock near Bury. It's not like living in Norwich. Hard stuff too - quite a few 8's within 30min drive. But all gritstone - either quarried or natural. Are you not a fan?
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Luke Owens on October 17, 2017, 12:55:42 pm
Ah, I was trying to remember where it was, there used to be a Hark to Towler in Tottington too if I remember correctly.

It was the one in Tottington, I played in a Megadeth tribute band for years. Had decent crowd in there for a small pub!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: User deactivated on October 17, 2017, 05:54:10 pm

There is rock near Bury. It's not like living in Norwich. Hard stuff too - quite a few 8's within 30min drive. But all gritstone - either quarried or natural. Are you not a fan?

I probably just haven't explored enough. Don't mind gritstone at all, just haven't climbed a lot on it, only been climbing outside a couple of years and I've spent a lot of that time at the same place, so the amount of crags I haven't been to is colossal. Must try harder!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: r-man on October 17, 2017, 06:59:25 pm
Fair enough. Give me a shout anytime if you want some info, or fancy getting out locally.  :)
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on December 18, 2017, 09:54:40 am
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=861

Strong!

Also, can anyone shed any light on Grapes of Raf? Can't find any reference to it other than a list of recommended problems on an old UKB thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=643.0;wap2) (incidentally some old gold on the thread!)... Ta!
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: Luke Owens on December 18, 2017, 10:09:55 am
Grapes of Raf used to be called The Ramp in the old guide, not sure why it's changed? Forgot to ask Panton when I seen him.
Title: Re: North Wales Bouldering
Post by: fatneck on December 18, 2017, 10:36:10 am
Cheers Luke but weird! I've always known it as the Ramp...
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