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1
bouldering / Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
« Last post by edshakey on Yesterday at 11:35:47 pm »
Almost seems like cheating to share Sam's videos in this thread, it'd fill it up!

Excellent film though. Jonny's dedication and commitment is a truly remarkable skill.
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bouldering / Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
« Last post by Bradders on Yesterday at 09:42:50 pm »
Surprised this hasn't been mentioned yet. Lovely video from Sam as ever.

https://youtu.be/q6i8QCic-Ow?si=XV8Sam-aGMO84zXA
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bouldering / Re: Limestone 7B
« Last post by BAndy on Yesterday at 07:48:50 pm »
Does it have to be in or close to the Peak? If not, I highly recommend this:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lighthouse_area-272/force_majeure-365276#overview
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chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by kc on Yesterday at 07:19:19 pm »
A consequence of some wad rocking up and dispatching a project quickly, abandoned or not is they often have very little interests in what happens afterwards. There are numerous examples of routes left in a poor and filthy state with loose or missing holds, rusty cleaning bolts and even missing hangers/bolts. If I were to give a project away it would ideally go to someone willing to take ownership and pride in what they are going to leave when done.
I struggle to think of many worthy candidates to share my secret projects with.
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beta - bouldering / Re: what's Hot Toddy RH?
« Last post by Bonjoy on Yesterday at 05:36:24 pm »
I'd agree with that. It depends where you want to set the bar though. Some areas/guides are more generous than others. Too much in either direction is either not very useful, or a recipe for disappointment.
In practice though most three star probs fall down to some extent on at least one of those measures, nature rarely produces perfection. Often stunning visual line have grim holds or moves, but end up with the stars anyway. My preference is for imperfection of line with great moves if I have to pick a defect. As such I'm quite tolerant of problems with simple coherent rules to fix their greatness e.g. defined start holds as opposed to simply a stand/sit start.
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chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by stone on Yesterday at 03:43:36 pm »
rjtrials, I think you have perfectly summed up what I also understood current UK sport route development etiquette to be. First off -massive thanks to you and all route developers -we wouldn't have sport routes without you!

I suppose the point I was trying to make was that there have been cases where I really don't think current etiquette has served the climbing community well at all. I was hoping that, if it was widely agreed that it wasn't fit-for-purpose, then a different etiquette might instead be adopted (as I described). My impression is that you consider the current etiquette is how things ought to be -that's a valid (and perhaps majority) opinion.

I suppose in my own mind, I view people who "steal" overly protracted closed projects more favourably than I do people who don't open them freely after they are several years old. But no one ought to mind what I think.
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shootin' the shit / Re: snooooooooooooowboarding
« Last post by galpinos on Yesterday at 03:31:14 pm »
Gers takes a lot of avalanche controlling and there is a convex slope with a west facing aspect in the micdlle of the bowl near the lift that is pretty problematic late season.

I still think I know everyone in resort but faces change quickly and I left in 2008! My wife is reluctant to go Flaine as I am so painful when there apparently.....
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chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by rjtrials on Yesterday at 03:08:32 pm »
The keyword in the thread title is "etiquette."

As a developer and someone who enjoys resurrecting abandoned projects, the key is communication.

If someone wants to climb on my routes, I generally have a rule that they should climb on it with me.  It helps both of us get the thing done.  There have been multiple times when I've spent several seasons on something and haven't done it.  During the process, the route was de facto closed.  Afterward, it is softly 'open.'  If some crusher wants to climb the route "because no one owns the rock" then the project is definitely closed.  If you call and talk to me and enquire about it I will give you all the beta and blessings.

I take the same approach to abandoned routes at crags I frequent.  Talk to the developer, see what was done on it, and see what work needs to be done.  Ask if you can do work on the route if it is needed.

There is a certain amount of respect to be conveyed on both sides of the developing/climbing coin.  I understand that there are people on both sides who are not amiable and are a PITA to deal with.  I still will shoot them a text and let them know i plan to fix up/climb on their routes if it is ok.  Sometimes it isnt, and thats ok too.
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shootin' the shit / Re: snooooooooooooowboarding
« Last post by SA Chris on Yesterday at 02:59:05 pm »
Fair enough, you clearly know it better than me! Gers opening does seem very random and inconsistent. Seems to go from closed to mogulled out in the space of a couple of hours. Guess you need to know a pisteur to be able to grab it at the right time.
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shootin' the shit / Re: snooooooooooooowboarding
« Last post by galpinos on Yesterday at 02:30:20 pm »

I did three winters in Flaine. Last Easter they didn't open Gers which was a bit of a ball ache, despite the snow being really good. Hoing for better this year as Easter is "earlier" so they might not be in full de-mob mode. Lindars should open, then I can hopefully do a quick tour up the Tete du Colonney.

Going with a massive group and a lot of kids so not as free to make the best of conditions as I would like but we shall see! I still have enough friends in resort to tag along on a fun adventure if I get a pass out.
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