UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => news => Topic started by: shark on February 07, 2013, 05:25:37 pm

Title: Dura Dura in the bag
Post by: shark on February 07, 2013, 05:25:37 pm
http://instagram.com/p/Vb8Zf0Ozqq/ (http://instagram.com/p/Vb8Zf0Ozqq/)   

:w00t:



Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Duma on February 07, 2013, 06:40:34 pm
AWESOME
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: shark on February 07, 2013, 07:24:09 pm
* pedantry alert *

Shouldn't this be in the Ondrawad thread?

 :-\

Wanted it to stand out on the home page. Not every day you get a hardest route in the world.
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Doylo on February 07, 2013, 07:28:53 pm
Can't wait to see the footage! Glad Sharma got his consolation prize yesterday and hope he manages to finish Dura.  :o
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Muenchener on February 07, 2013, 08:03:23 pm
Wanted it to stand out on the home page. Not every day you get a hardest route in the world.

It's barely six months since the last one.

With some of the hardest ever flashes & onsights for recovery in between.
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: jwi on February 07, 2013, 08:14:49 pm
Two 9b+, Ondra should be able to onsight 9a, otherwise we can write him off as a redpoint-specialist...
 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Wood FT on February 07, 2013, 08:57:59 pm
Mind blowing, hard hard
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Fiend on February 07, 2013, 09:39:25 pm
THE Hard Hard

Shark please re-title thread to "Another Ondra 9b+"  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: HaeMeS on February 07, 2013, 10:15:18 pm
Interview with Ondra:

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40617 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40617)
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: rosmat on February 07, 2013, 10:20:06 pm
According to the man himself it breaks down as:

9b/9b+ to a knee bar rest, then 8c+ to ok rest, then 8b to da chains!

Mind bending.
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: masonwoods101 on February 07, 2013, 10:22:42 pm
In the photo on planetmountain of him knee barring... Looks like he has been punched in the nose....
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: rosmat on February 07, 2013, 10:31:29 pm
Left hook from Sharma.....
Title: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: tomtom on February 07, 2013, 10:32:29 pm
What a great guy.. Spot on..

"Last question: there's been much hype on the internet about both you and Chris trying the route...

Yeah, there has but in truth the two of us just went climbing together. It was a really positive experience, a really friendly atmosphere, we could both learn much from each other. You know, it's much more fun to try a hard route with someone else, isn't it!"
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: r-man on February 07, 2013, 11:17:12 pm
Psyched.

(http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/16102.jpg)
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: James Malloch on February 07, 2013, 11:55:41 pm
Awesome climbing!

Big question though, what will the grade be if you use a knee pad?
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: ianto9 on February 08, 2013, 12:23:59 am
knee pad under his pants surely (sneaky)ha.kneebar rest with shite feet on that angle afterall that with more to come!!! unbelieveble amazing inspiring makes me want to/need to try harder love it.hope sharma gets it aswell :bow:
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Muenchener on February 08, 2013, 07:20:40 am
Big question though, what will the grade be if you use a knee pad?

Mild Hard 9b+?
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Grubes on February 08, 2013, 07:41:45 am
Awesome effort by sharma to scope the line and put the effort into bolting and cleaning the route!

What a great tick by ondra unbelievable achievement.
The pure beast energy seems to of spread through out the climbing world
Guigui ticked trip hop
Sharma got a new 9b (same day or day before?)
Mike adams put up a new stanage 8A
and Tomtom finally finished off the keel

Some one get ondra to create an account so I can wad the fuck out of him!
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: slackline on February 08, 2013, 07:54:41 am
 :clap2: :bow:
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Doylo on February 08, 2013, 08:18:36 am
I love the fact that 8c+ and 8b after 9b/+ is 9b+. Shows how piss the 8th grade is when you're cranking this hard. It's hard to believe that someone has got that good. It seems like yesterday that 9a was still big news!
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Doylo on February 08, 2013, 08:23:30 am
Awesome effort by sharma to scope the line and put the effort into bolting and cleaning the route!

What a great tick by ondra unbelievable achievement.
The pure beast energy seems to of spread through out the climbing world
Guigui ticked trip hop
Sharma got a new 9b (same day or day before?)
Mike adams put up a new stanage 8A
and Tomtom finally finished off the keel

Some one get ondra to create an account so I can wad the fuck out of him!

My old man did a V3 down Prestatyn wall too....
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: dr_botnik on February 08, 2013, 10:24:13 am
Ondra + Sharma =  :beer2:
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: slackline on February 08, 2013, 10:45:32 am
Quote from: Chris Sharma
Congrats to Adam Ondra for sending La Dura Dura today!! So inspiring!! Amazing job! So rad that this project is no longer a project. Motivacion!!!! (http://instagram.com/p/Vb8TSkSd0i/)
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Luke Owens on February 08, 2013, 11:21:58 am

My old man did a V3 down Prestatyn wall too....

Mike the beast! Haven't climbed with your old man in awhile, sounds like he's going well!
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Doylo on February 08, 2013, 12:21:48 pm

My old man did a V3 down Prestatyn wall too....

Mike the beast! Haven't climbed with your old man in awhile, sounds like he's going well!

He's a fuckin machine
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: SA Chris on February 08, 2013, 12:38:17 pm
a fucking machine or a fucking machine?
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 08, 2013, 12:58:46 pm
I love the fact that 8c+ and 8b after 9b/+ is 9b+. Shows how piss the 8th grade is when you're cranking this hard. It's hard to believe that someone has got that good. It seems like yesterday that 9a was still big news!

It's also the fact that the 20m 8b finish is only mentioned as a formality. You'd think that could be quite easy to fuck up / feel quite hard after climbing 9b/+ into 8c+ but not for Ondra! Mind blowing.
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: finbarrr on February 08, 2013, 01:40:34 pm
sounds like Ondra has two weeks to finish the "proper" Stoking The Fire  ;)

Sharma (on 8a) :
"Stoking the Fire has so much good climbing on it. [...] (its probably 9a on top of 9b).

For now I chose to go to the top via the upper section of Mercenaris del Pasat (just left of Stoking the Fire) which is maybe just 8a+ or so."
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Luke Owens on February 08, 2013, 02:23:28 pm
sounds like Ondra has two weeks to finish the "proper" Stoking The Fire  ;)

Sharma (on 8a) :
"Stoking the Fire has so much good climbing on it. [...] (its probably 9a on top of 9b).

For now I chose to go to the top via the upper section of Mercenaris del Pasat (just left of Stoking the Fire) which is maybe just 8a+ or so."

Interesting stuff, will be good to know if he get's on it.

Wonder what's next for Ondra, anyone know of any other projects of this calibre?
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 08, 2013, 02:33:17 pm
There's hardly a shortage of unclimbed, amazing rock in Spain (alone) and I'm pretty sure there will be numerous 9b+ and harder projects for him to go at. But I'd like to see him get to Buoux.
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Wood FT on February 08, 2013, 02:45:19 pm
There's hardly a shortage of unclimbed, amazing rock in Spain (alone) and I'm pretty sure there will be numerous 9b+ and harder projects for him to go at. But I'd like to see him get to Buoux.

agreed, it's been said before but Buoux deserves a nine
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: GCW on February 08, 2013, 03:46:50 pm
Brandenburg Gate!!
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 08, 2013, 03:48:53 pm
No chance he can't even do the Hubble crux.
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: GCW on February 08, 2013, 04:03:10 pm
Oh yeah.





Punter!
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Doylo on February 08, 2013, 04:07:34 pm
Good job the 2nd section 8c+ wasn't Hubble! :tease:
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Baldy on February 08, 2013, 04:13:32 pm
Is there a reason why the title is lacking a space between 'the' and 'bag'? :shrug:

If not - is it possible to change it?
It is making me twitch whenever I see it

Also - Ondra is strong, well done Ondra. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: abarro81 on February 08, 2013, 05:52:35 pm
The Brandenburg gate proj looks like the shittest project in the world. And I like the tor.
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: ianv on February 08, 2013, 06:18:04 pm
9 weeks working a project at the tor would most likely put him off  climbing for good. We don't want that to happen yet.
Title: Re: Dura Dura in thebag
Post by: Doylo on February 08, 2013, 06:34:39 pm
The Brandenburg gate proj looks like the shittest project in the world. And I like the tor.

That's why Jonny was so into it!  :lol:
Title: Re: Dura Dura in the bag
Post by: slackline on February 14, 2013, 04:13:57 pm
Not sure if its La Dura Dura but...

Quote from: Joe Kinder
my prediction is that Chris Sharma will send today… in about 4 hours or less. (https://twitter.com/joekindkid/status/302040656744955904)

Nothing like a bit of conjecture!

(His blogs worth a read too).
Title: Re: Dura Dura in the bag
Post by: r-man on February 14, 2013, 05:33:00 pm
Come on Shazzer. You can do it.

Meanwhile, let's all consider which is our favourite sandal...
(Ondra the dancer or sharma the actor - who wins?)  ;)

Sierra Blair-Coyle and Chris Sharma "Sanuk Shoe War" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ej1_cLI43Tg#ws)
Title: Re: Dura Dura in the bag
Post by: Wood FT on February 14, 2013, 06:45:22 pm
That was so shit   :lol:
Title: Re: Dura Dura in the bag
Post by: lukeh on March 24, 2013, 01:05:47 pm
Sharma made it! (http://instagram.com/p/XO0ArkSd89/) :clap2:
Title: Re: Dura Dura in the bag
Post by: Rocksteady on March 24, 2013, 09:20:13 pm
Yes Sharma's done it! Legend!
Title: Re: Dura Dura in the bag
Post by: Doylo on March 24, 2013, 10:51:58 pm
Amazing to see the old pretender keeping up with the young pretender. Took him 12 years to go from 9a+ to 9b+, inspiring.
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal