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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on September 10, 2017, 06:39:52 pm
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11.5-6
M. PM Warm and muggy with Ben. Ben wanted to do gorilla warfare so obliged by heading there as it was his birthday treat. Condensed to fuck. Headed across to Gardoms. Despite being more exposed still wet under Marks Roof 7B Too warm to hang the slopers on the finish so tried the original 7A. Got to flake but kneepad I'd randomly put on had slipped so couldn't bend leg. Big effort next go and got matched on flake with hip on slab but too busted to seal the deal. Crap connies but still managed to have fun
T. PM Foundry Wave. They hadn't quite finished the wave reset when I arrived but all available after 20mins. Did a few level 2's though fell off right at the top of the tough fluoro yellow just left of centre
W. Full day in Manc then drove to Lakes for the Area meet. Stopped up with Karl T
T. Weather shit so worked in morning. Went to Eden Rock wall in Carlisle with Karl T for a couple of hours before heading over to NE Area meet. Nice palce. Had a natter with Dan Varian about hold stabilisation. Then went to NE Area Meeting. Got back to Sheff at midnight
F.
S. Dreadful weather. Headed out to Peak more in hope than expectation. Crag X in good nick and stayed that way despite virtually continuous rain. Worked Zippy's Traverse 7A+ and then fell off after the crux a few times then managed to get it just before tiredness set in
S. AM Anston with boys. Had made a pact with Ben that we'd stay at Woodys if it was in nick. It was. 2nd session on Ben's proj Soul Crusher 7C+ Got to go for slot from start three times. Some useful beta from Andy B makes the rail match much easier. My proj too now.
Good week. Oak wet apparently. Kind of relieved
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M:
T: Indoors. 30 board, can't quite remember what I was trying but it was probably crimpy.
W:
T: Indoors. 30 board, small crimp problems, it's all about the ratty crimps these days, managing big moves of them is very satisfying. Fingers are feeling strong. Been avoiding the 50 as it feels like too much effort, which most probably means I should get back on it.
F: Cliff, evening hit. Enjoyable easy circuit, then managed to climb Demonist (DWR to big crimp then traverse left to DW crack) by reversing Stu's Left, I don't know whether this is what you're suppose to do, but the sequence is excellent regardless.
S: wet
S: Ilkley. Climbed The Pinch 7B on the calf and managed Chariots of Fire Eliminate 7B+. Got to same high point on Bernie the Bolt 7B+ and still unsure how to get to the side pull under the top jug. Climb 3 More Reps 7B+ to the similar point of not getting to said side pull. Figured all the moves for the 7B+ traverse apart from two in the middle (basically how to get to the massive jug). My sequence reading skills must really suck. Still I'm enjoying pissing around on this piece of rock. 5 sets of 5 on 5 off x 6 repeaters when I got home. Small BM2K edge and 2 finger pockets.
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Nice on Zippy's Simon, surely moffatrocity should be a proj of yours?
STG: 8a
MTG: 8a+
LTG: Mecca
Mon -
Tue -
Wed - Ansteys with Steph and Theo, crap tides put paid to dws. Met Toby D at Empire Wall who impressed me yet further with his ability to not throw for holds, good to see him pumped to his eyeballs at the top. Put the clips in Leather Whip Mick and did it next go with an exciting cut loose at the top, I really enjoyed this route, this contrived lineless hot piece of class. I reckon it's 8a, some locals do not, fuck 'em.
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Bolt workshop at Churston with Dan BMC, lots of rain but all had a good time and a merry band of equippers set up for much-needed work down here. Torbyran late pm, redpointed Threadbare LH, what a top move! 7b+ but I'd suggest 7c (well I would wouldn't I?). South West meet in the evening, watched James Mann's film on the 50th-anniversary ascent of Moonraker with Pat Littlejohn and Pete Biven's granddaughter, charming film with real soul, deserves accolades at Kendal Film Fest.
Sun - Brean, pissed it down, but before we ran away had a dog on Black Snake Moan and Storm Warning Variation, both apparently soft at 8a though they feel hard enough to me. Didn't like the style of BSM much and preferred what new moves there are on SWV, my gf has a project here so will have a proper go next time. Pint in a horrid pub on the way out, I thought it would be like Louis Theroux but it was just shite.
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M - Rest
Tu - Indoors, I remember nothing, probably an average session
W/Th - Nothing
Fr - Indoors, tired, climbed like crap, couldn't get off the ground on a couple of problems that I had wired before. No idea why.
Sa - busy, busy
Su- Yr. no's weather report for the forest looked O.Kish. Should have dried out after a lot of rain. Drove towards Cul de chien, changed my mind and went to Gorge aux chats, didn't even bother going further than the car pârk, everthing was damp and it was just starting to rain. Drove home in a foul mood.....more tired than foul to be honest.
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Su- Yr. no's weather report for the forest looked O.Kish. Should have dried out after a lot of rain. Drove towards Cul de chien, changed my mind and went to Gorge aux chats, didn't even bother going further than the car pârk, everthing was damp and it was just starting to rain. Drove home in a foul mood.....more tired than foul to be honest.
I'm thinking of sacking off Spain until January and heading to 'bleau for month in November - soon as I know what I'm up to, I'll give you a shout.
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Su- Yr. no's weather report for the forest looked O.Kish.
French sites gave an accurate forecast rather than what you wanted to read?
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Back to it after 3 week break:
M - post holiday weigh-in, put on less than a kilogram. Result.
T nowt
W nowt
Th - Moat - bit rusty. Done in after 4 tie-ins.
F - set out to do 10 laps of my moderate (7aish) circuit, failed in the fifth.
Bit of TRX.
S Lot of pain
S tried to do AeroCap but couldn't get going even for that (nothing to do with a hangover of course)
Not the week back I planned, was hoping to get 4-5 sessions in but, life.
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surely moffatrocity should be a proj of yours?
For sure. Intended working the drop down move on it but Zippy's took it out me
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Su- Yr. no's weather report for the forest looked O.Kish.
French sites gave an accurate forecast rather than what you wanted to read?
Yr.no is usually fairly accurate.....French weather sites are characteristically moody and pessimistic
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Su- Yr. no's weather report for the forest looked O.Kish. Should have dried out after a lot of rain. Drove towards Cul de chien, changed my mind and went to Gorge aux chats, didn't even bother going further than the car pârk, everthing was damp and it was just starting to rain. Drove home in a foul mood.....more tired than foul to be honest.
I'm thinking of sacking off Spain until January and heading to 'bleau for month in November - soon as I know what I'm up to, I'll give you a shout.
Sounds good :2thumbsup:
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Su- Yr. no's weather report for the forest looked O.Kish. Should have dried out after a lot of rain. Drove towards Cul de chien, changed my mind and went to Gorge aux chats, didn't even bother going further than the car pârk, everthing was damp and it was just starting to rain. Drove home in a foul mood.....more tired than foul to be honest.
I'm gonna be in Bleau from next Weds, hoping to stay out there for a while (until the end of October?) lemme know if you fancy climbing some time!
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Power Club
Mon - BM max, back3, front3. Very promising, felt quite good. The magic of having only 25 degrees. Snatch pulls from ground, 5 x 3 46 kg. Dumbbell complex. It's good to be back on track.
Tue - rest.
Wed - Javorek complex, power. 2 x 2, 3 x 3 46 kg. Amazing.
Thu - boxing bag. Terribly hot and humid. Again.
Fri - rest. Forearm DOMS.
Sat - board climbing. Terrible. 24 degrees, 50% humidity. Rack pulls up to 138 kg x 3. Good.
Sun - rest.
Good week apart from th board. Terrible, the worst half session in ages. Wanted to get back into it but chose the wrong test: one foot bouldering wit 8 kg. Felt strong on the singles, but boy was I poor on the link. Fired off from holds a couple of times, no skin, no body control, no nothing. Sliced two fingers, also. Cut my losses with rack pulls (from just under knee height). Good choice, I felt them in my upper back and core.
Must address the board with a lot of patience. It was a shame because I really felt strong on the single moves.
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. Pint in a horrid pub on the way out, I thought it would be like Louis Theroux but it was just shite.
Need to get to the excellent torbryan pub at some point, or the cider bar!
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Basically a pretty shit week. Not been able to do much, other than the lovely day at ansteys holding guy's rope, and a few sub hour long visits to the bunker (cheers Matt!) I think Monday was the only night I actually slept for more than 3-4 hours
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STG: resolve finger issues (seem to be improving) and start training properly again
MTG: Captain Hook, Bovine, Electrical Storm
LTG: Brad Pit, and la Fuente (stand)
66kg
M: Physio - discovered I refuse to engage my serratus anterior
T: Depot Manchester, worked 2 more purples and pinging off the last move consistantly on another yellow - should go fresh
W: fingerboarding (repeaters) front 3 + pinch blocks + 4 finger. Weights, shoulder press + Conditioning
T: Depot Manchester, volume session. worked through most of the reds focusing on climbing open handed (stupidly tried to full crimp on one problem which was a little painful)
F: Rest
S: campussing session
S: Wrights rock, Churnet came of the match for simple simon (felt tired) + fingers (top was pretty wet). fingerboarding (repeaters) front 3 + pinch blocks repeaters . + Weights, shoulder press + Conditioning (TRX) + Run
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. Pint in a horrid pub on the way out, I thought it would be like Louis Theroux but it was just shite.
Need to get to the excellent torbryan pub at some point, or the cider bar!
Yep, keen for the ghost pub
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Have sorted out a few things to allow me to train with more regularity (primarily finishing building a board in the garden), so I thought I'd jump into power club.
Weight: 69kg
STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon, 7A something
LTG: TBC
M: First session on the garden board. Did a few warm-up problems and played around.
T: Rest. Applied for half-marathon in March.
W: Second board session. Figured out a couple of easier problems to add to the warm-up. Played around trying to figure out some harder things to have a go at.
T: Run. First proper run for a while, easing back in to it. Went out for just over 20 mins. Didn't log distance/pace but felt reasonable.
F: Board session. Did warm-up problems and worked at a few other things.
S: Rest.
S: Installed some rubber matting under the board. Went for a run. Took the GPS this time. Did 6k at 4:18/km average pace.
Good week. Felt weak on the board in general but that was to be expected given I've hardly done anything recently. Committed to doing a half-marathon in March which will give some impetus to the running. First couple of runs have gone ok, just need keep at it and build the distance slowly.
Need to add some strength/conditioning/injury prevention exercises into the mix to keep the usual niggles at bay. Also need to work on flexibility as it's woeful at the moment.
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M - Lunch run (stopped due to hamstring/glute/hip problem)
T - Autobelays - 5, 6b+, 6c, 6b+, 7a+, 7a (finally) x 2, 6b+, 6c. Gave feedback to Gav about the blobs on the campus board. Talked through a way of sorting it out so that the middle set of rungs was no longer redundant due to lack of elbow room. He said he's add it to the list!
W - Baslow - 4 problems on Eagle Stone, Leftworld (not done before), Heroes LH (flash). Tried Flatworld sitter. Great to do mileage.
T - Autobelays - 11 x 6b - 6cs.
F - Wave pulling. New set. L2s and 3 x black, 1 x black/yellow flashed. Could feel finger afterwards.
S - Foundry en famille. Did some lock offs on the bar and a few press ups on the rings.
S - Curbar after it started raining on arrival at Stanage. Nearly diverted to the Tor. Stuff on the block and repeats of Gorilla Warfare etc. Did GW there and back. Had a few goes trying to repeat Hurricane.
Enjoying grit mileage.
Laying off running until leg is sorted.
Going to do some strength work this wk, as well as autobelays. Left shoulder now seems to be sorted. Can lock off (briefly) on a bar with left arm for first time since March.
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STG - Tourniquet and get back on Ebola at some point
MTG - week off in October and two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise, Tourniquet at Kentmere and Low Rider at Stanage
LTG - too many projects to list here.
M - day off, utterly terrible weather so took the dog for a walk round Brimham before heading to the Cliff. I really hate Demon Wall Roof. Small holds just aren't my thing. Repeated all the standard stuff then tried Stu's Left and DWR left to no avail. I blame heat and high humidity. Had a few goes on Pistol Whip but the sun was out by that point and it was boiling. Repeated Crucis and a load of easier things to finish.
T - rest
W - Almscliff again. Much better connies. Sadly my skin was far too thin for DWR left but still made progress with four taped tips! Then went to the Depot, flashed one new yellow and did another second go. Soft as.
T - gym, cable exercises working on chest, then squats. Need to improve my form on the latter.
F - rest
S - 40 minute run in the morning, no idea how far
S - Depot, tried loads of yellows and have now done 4 over two sessions. Also flashed a few purples. Session fitness definitely improving.
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Goals:
Fix shoulder
More 8A's
8b
Body Audit: Left shoulder feeling ok, restricting myself to rehab and 6 or below for now, think will start some ring stuff this week.
Sleep: Average to poor
71kg.
M:
T: TCA, shoulder rehab and all the oranges feeling pretty knackered form weekend still
W: Nothing.
T: TCA, new mothership set, couldn't bear another rep of the oranges so got stuck in - short session and only did one hardish thing but nice to try hard for once. Could feel shoulder after but not bad. Shoulder rehab. Pick up new van! :bounce:
F: Nothing, daughter for weekend
S: TCA with daughter, did some blues (6A ish) while she climbed
S: Nothing.
still knackered from last few weeks of debauchery, plus lots of admin stuff around vehicles taking up time and stress. Pleased shoulder seemed to survive Thursdays session though.
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Some good entries. Well done Shark. Did you do it the proper way? ;)
M > We Full on Conference shizzle. Barely enough time to sleep let alone anything else...
Th: Depot with TTjnr in the morning... Very creaky, but managed a decentish work out eventually... He's nearly walking now - and when that happens my days of being able to plonk him on the mats at the wall will be over.... Later that day he got ill - and after an out of hours GP experience (through the private provider in some dank part of MRI) it turns out the tonsillitis he had last week had not been defeated by the AB's... Drove to three 24 hour chemists until we found one with the right drugs...
Fri: Wedding anniversary day... nice country walk and posh pub lunch was the plan... ill child meant a revision to lunch only - which took ages to arrive meaning the boy had eaten and had nothing to do (except mess about) when our food arrived... anyway....
Sa: Looking after TTjnr again - as MrsTT had a work training day.
Su: Awarded a pass out. SHIT WEATHER. GRRRRRRR. Anyway, went to Rubicon... very creaky - gone backwards on The Press - could barely pull on for a second.. fucked about on it for a while, then did the start to White Bait for the first time - which I quite enjoyed... went home and cooked a chicken.
A week dominated by a poorly child.. I need to do more training (which started today on the 30 at the depot..)
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Some good entries. Well done Shark. Did you do it the proper way? ;)
What are the rules?
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M - big yellow gym - warmed up with pullups on jugs (they have holds bolted on to a couple of pull up rigs!) pressups, dumbell complex and interval runs - then on to the main event, 4 x complex sets of pullups, pressups and below bodyweight trap bar deadlift - gasping for air at the end of each set - legs are the weak link
T - warm up routine on home slopers board - legs aching from gym
W - back to big yellow gym before work - more of the complex sets - fun
got measured/weighed - gained a cm in height, but put on a lb, so BMI remains same, but fat content measured lower
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DJBeIjMXYAAYD5u.jpg)
eve - herding an army of small boys at Beavers
Th - Climbing Works in between early shift and late shift at job work - climbing a bit meh, but Joe Healey and Matt Saunders turned up and provided motivation (piss taking etc) to crack on - managed to do a few things that pleased me
F - helping herd medium sized army Beavers and Cubs using a variety of disability aids on the streets of Sheffield - may have broken a rib laughing so hard
Sa - mini works with the lad - saw Al Williams in his car while we drove there, good local tick - fingers and toe joints were bad and I forgot to take drugs before setting out - found a couple of joint friendly low 6 murples to do reps on
Su - D I Y
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A decent week Lagers - keep up the routine...
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cheers TT
trying to get myself spotting fit for the coming season
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cheers TT
trying to get myself spotting hustling fit for the coming season
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Goal - a new Font 7anything
Started the 100 reps thing again
M - gym on lunch, brutal 200 reps including bodyweight (70kg) deadlifts, 60cm box jumps, KB goblet squats and KB swings.
T - DOMS. Had goo intentions to go to gym on lunch but was in too much pain. 100 reps at home later on.
W - 100 squats in the shower room at work at the end of the day, then out for a few beers.
T - hungover, then Thai lunch and an IPA, then 100 reps in the evening.
F - 100 reps at home.
S - as above.
S - as above. Fiona was away so had my first taste of doing teatime / bedtime / night-time and morning routine with a 3-yr-old and a 7-month-old.
Other development was that I've had the OK to have a night away somewhere, so considering a trip to North Lees camping pod over a weekend one day soon. Looking forward to that!
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Su- Yr. no's weather report for the forest looked O.Kish. Should have dried out after a lot of rain. Drove towards Cul de chien, changed my mind and went to Gorge aux chats, didn't even bother going further than the car pârk, everthing was damp and it was just starting to rain. Drove home in a foul mood.....more tired than foul to be honest.
I'm gonna be in Bleau from next Weds, hoping to stay out there for a while (until the end of October?) lemme know if you fancy climbing some time!
I PMed you, seems to be a few problems with the DB at the moment....
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Some good entries. Well done Shark. Did you do it the proper way? ;)
What are the rules?
You have shuffle along until holding two small slots then bust up to a slopey boss edge. I thought this was the most logical way but it's easier if you go up earlier.
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Some good entries. Well done Shark. Did you do it the proper way? ;)
What are the rules?
You have shuffle along until holding two small slots then bust up to a slopey boss edge. I thought this was the most logical way but it's easier if you go up earlier.
Yeah. I did that. Didn't start quite as far right as tomtom on his fail vid which is maybe what he is getting at but team old skool didn't start there either
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Some good entries. Well done Shark. Did you do it the proper way? ;)
What are the rules?
You have shuffle along until holding two small slots then bust up to a slopey boss edge. I thought this was the most logical way but it's easier if you go up earlier.
Yeah. I did that. Didn't start quite as far right as tomtom on his fail vid which is maybe what he is getting at but team old skool didn't start there either
Yeah - depends what holds at the start are damp etc.. I think the main difference between ways is some go up much earlier to the big crimpy edge with the RH (with a right heel on) then go left, rather than shuffling along low then heading up to the slopers...
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Yeah - depends what holds at the start are damp etc.. I think the main difference between ways is some go up much earlier to the big crimpy edge with the RH (with a right heel on) then go left, rather than shuffling along low then heading up to the slopers...
I've seen this on a few vids. It basically isn't Zippy's.
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Yeah - depends what holds at the start are damp etc.. I think the main difference between ways is some go up much earlier to the big crimpy edge with the RH (with a right heel on) then go left, rather than shuffling along low then heading up to the slopers...
I've seen this on a few vids. It basically isn't Zippy's.
https://vimeo.com/66518858
Here you go. This video won't stay public for long; I'm wearing a wrist sweat band and a fleecy headband which is something I can't explain and find embarrassing. That was the first time I figured out a sequence that worked for me on Jericho.
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That's pretty much how I think it goes (and Shark explained iirc). Though I go up with my RH from low and keep my feet under - but that's just a difference in method rather than line.
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Good arrows on the sweatband. That is indeed Zippys. Interesting that you went to to that crimp with the LH though, never seen it done like that, I thought most roll over to it with RH from LH on that slick blocky hold.
Good link here is to do Zippy's then finish up the 7b that starts in the same place as Moffatrocity (goes up left to the Superman finishing pocket). Can't remember if that one is Pink Indians or Brain Pollution. But anyway, doing Zippy's into this is a great problem.
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I can't explain how strong is my desire to climb on Peak lime.
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Good arrows on the sweatband. That is indeed Zippys. Interesting that you went to to that crimp with the LH though, never seen it done like that, I thought most roll over to it with RH from LH on that slick blocky hold.
Good link here is to do Zippy's then finish up the 7b that starts in the same place as Moffatrocity (goes up left to the Superman finishing pocket). Can't remember if that one is Pink Indians or Brain Pollution. But anyway, doing Zippy's into this is a great problem.
I've never seen anyone else do it so just did it like that. Rolling over sounds interesting, will try it.
Pink Indians. Always intended to do that link.
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I can't explain how strong is my desire to climb on Peak lime.
make sure you read the rules first
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Good arrows on the sweatband. That is indeed Zippys. Interesting that you went to to that crimp with the LH though, never seen it done like that, I thought most roll over to it with RH from LH on that slick blocky hold.
Good link here is to do Zippy's then finish up the 7b that starts in the same place as Moffatrocity (goes up left to the Superman finishing pocket). Can't remember if that one is Pink Indians or Brain Pollution. But anyway, doing Zippy's into this is a great problem.
pretty sure thats going into pink indians :)
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I can't explain how strong is my desire to climb on Peak lime.
make sure you read the rules first
;D
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Good link here is to do Zippy's then finish up the 7b that starts in the same place as Moffatrocity (goes up left to the Superman finishing pocket). Can't remember if that one is Pink Indians or Brain Pollution. But anyway, doing Zippy's into this is a great problem.
Down at 7B+ on UKC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=413834
Does that sound the right grade?
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Yeah probably about the right kinda ballpark.