UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Alex Smurthwaite on September 07, 2017, 04:36:21 pm
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Whats the best way to build the dynamic power and deep lock that campusing gives.
got a board and fingerboard in my garage.
Im fairly strong static on small holds but dynamic moves feel nails.
cheers
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Campus on slightly bigger holds on the board?
Make sure you avoid small moves and set some campus stuff where you really have to go big
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Assisted one-armers on tha rings (also a good way to knacker your elbows).
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Campus on slightly bigger holds on the board?
Make sure you avoid small moves and set some campus stuff where you really have to go big
Done a bit of this. Although there aren't many big holds and I'm no way strong enough to campus the crimps. Might have to get some bigger holds
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This is a staple of my current training, and I find it frankly the Mutt's Nuts. I always refer to them as "Campus Pulls". Essentially assisted (front on) One Arm pulls on a suitable finger edge. To graduate this, I start with off-set pull ups, one hand on an edge lower than the one I pull on. When feeling better/stronger, transfer the assisting hand to a knotted rope to the side. Vary the assistance/height of "pushing" hand. You can really work the high lock if the assisting hand is a bit higher. I normally do x 5 reps each hand from a high knot, then x 5 reps with hand lower. Single reps, good rest between. Just f'ing ace :boxing:
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Limit bouldering on the board on problems with dynamic moves? See https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/02/09/the-anatomy-of-a-limit-boulder-problem/ (https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/02/09/the-anatomy-of-a-limit-boulder-problem/).
There's also a 'power' fingerboarding routine in the Anderson's Rock Climber's Training Manual based around short duration (<5 secs?) one arm hangs (assisted as needed) in various prehensions. I can't remember the protocol off the top of my head. Not very dynamic obviously, but could help with lock-off strength.
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This could be useful as includes a comparison of campus and limit bouldering and training on a finger board: https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/09/26/contact-strength-max-recruitment-power-training/ (https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/09/26/contact-strength-max-recruitment-power-training/)
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Explosive pull-ups and one-armed lock-offs.
Start on a pull-up bar and progress to f-board
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Explosive pull-ups and one-armed lock-offs.
Start on a pull-up bar and progress to f-board
I can virtually do one armers on a bar, but as soon as i get to a campus board i become shamefully weak
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What about a bachar ladder? you can even listen to music while you do it.
Eddie Vedder demonstrates: https://youtu.be/-b05lKxQIrA?t=156
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What about a bachar ladder? you can even listen to music while you do it.
You could listen to some Elbow.
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What about a bachar ladder? you can even listen to music while you do it.
Eddie Vedder demonstrates: https://youtu.be/-b05lKxQIrA?t=156
Sacrilege! Mr JR. Talking about the Bachar ladder as an "alternative" to anything, won't be tolerated! Ghetto blaster, no shoes, and piss stained lycra required for full effect. The Bachar ladder is a wonderful device. Seriously though, it's a different pull to the campus board, being far more side on. Never experienced problems with my elbows from using one. Requires a bit more garage space than a campus board though ;)
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Have you got the lycra Dave? :whistle:
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Have you got the lycra Dave? :whistle:
No. Just the piss stains, and a pair of stilettos ;)