UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: matts on June 22, 2017, 10:17:07 am
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Here is a little web app that I wrote. It lets you compare your max-hang numbers to your bouldering grade. So far more than 200 climbers have participated in it and there's quite a few entries between V5 and V11. More data in the V12 and up range would be great though.
I published the link on https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/) but thought it would be good to also post it somewhere else. Get some more variety and all that...
Feel free to share and try it out if you like:
https://toclimb8a.shinyapps.io/maxtograde/ (https://toclimb8a.shinyapps.io/maxtograde/)
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General trend as expected with a huge range for given grades, probably also to be expected?
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Yes, everything as expected I'd say. I think range for given grades is amplified because it's self-reported, people give indoor and outdoor grades and so on... still interesting to see.
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A flat 18 mm edge is a very strange handhold as well. Never seen one on a route or a boulder. Familiarity with the test equipment probably explain quite a lot of the variation.
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True. But I think so far people who entered their data are generally people who use a fingerboard regularly and should be familiar with an 18-20 mm edge. I think no one has seen this, thought they didn't know what they can hang, tested that, and then entered their data.
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Plotted results: http://i.imgur.com/xjTn1bg.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/xjTn1bg.jpg)
Histogram of grade distribution: http://toclimb8a.imgur.com/all/?third_party=1 (http://toclimb8a.imgur.com/all/?third_party=1)
Boxplot: http://toclimb8a.imgur.com/all/?third_party=1 (http://toclimb8a.imgur.com/all/?third_party=1)
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would you say 18mm or 20mm is more appropriate? - seems to me it would have quite a variance
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Looks like good data to me. Trend is clear enough—and expected as you say—despite high residual variance. Perhaps asking a slightly different question would clean it up, like, eg, what's the highest grade you've climbed >5 of?
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Maybe the timing too - e.g. You may have climbed V12 two years ago, but measured hangability last week...
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Good point about timing TT.
I looked up that lattice article you mentioned about crimp vs open vs grade. Interesting. 1/2 crimp has better explanatory power than open - some people are much stronger open than their grade. Clearly relates to the discussion here.
https://m.facebook.com/latticetraining/photos/a.206890996309899.1073741829.135071466825186/482595652072764/?type=3&source=48&__tn__=EH-R
I can't see the article too well - graphs are blurry. Am I going to have to join Facebook just to read the latest finger strength science?