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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Pewtle on March 31, 2017, 10:14:24 am

Title: Forearm pain
Post by: Pewtle on March 31, 2017, 10:14:24 am

Hey injury fans

Has anyone experienced this before? I was open handed on a chip on a volume around shoulder height, and slipped with my other hand, shock loading the left hand.  I *think* I heard something go ping, and now I have pain through the flexor muscles in my forearms (flexor carpi I think), radiating all the way down to the medial epicondyle when I extend my  ring finger.  Weirdly, crimping is pain free (apart from a bit of stiffness), but as soon as I go open handed and drop my pinky I get proper stabbing pains. 

Has anyone had anything similar?  I've got a GP appointment next week so I can get a referral, but I find its always best to have an idea of what it is when going in.

Ta

Title: Re: Forearm pain
Post by: Fultonius on March 31, 2017, 11:08:38 am

Yes. Classic flexor unit strain. It will probably hurt to open hand, but won't be so bad on crimps. Stretching (in my experience) makes it worse. Take a wee bit of time off then get back on it, but just avoid anything that hurts, split fingers etc.

Some have had more success with stretching.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=18501.0

Flexor Unit Strain   :spank: Sorry Dr J:

http://drjuliansaunders.com/ask-dr-j-issue-193/

Title: Re: Forearm pain
Post by: Pewtle on March 31, 2017, 02:35:49 pm

Thanks man, that's really helpful.

Turning 30 in the summer and my body is already giving up  :boohoo:

Title: Re: Forearm pain
Post by: SA Chris on March 31, 2017, 04:12:34 pm

Prime of youth mate. Give it another 10 or so.

Title: Re: Forearm pain
Post by: Dexter on March 31, 2017, 04:19:29 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on March 31, 2017, 04:12:34 pm

Prime of youth mate. Give it another 10 or so.

10 weeks? Days? Hours?

Title: Re: Forearm pain
Post by: SA Chris on March 31, 2017, 05:13:22 pm

I think you know. When he says turning 30, the number is traditionally associated with a standard duration.

Title: Re: Forearm pain
Post by: jshaw on March 31, 2017, 05:22:29 pm

I currently have one of these, from a similar scenario, although mine doesn't sound as bad.


I found buddy taping to the next finger didn't help.
Light stretching seemed to help, my forearms were quite tight.
Giving my forearms a thorough massage after climbing with deep heat seemed to help too.
I started carefully loading my fingers in the position that had been injured after ~3/4 weeks with good improvement so far.


I didn't have to reduce my climbing intensity, just had to be more selective in the type of climbing I did.