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the shizzle => the blog pile => Topic started by: comPiler on April 16, 2010, 07:00:06 pm

Title:  fiendblog
Post by: comPiler on April 16, 2010, 07:00:06 pm
Blog? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/04/blog.html)
16 April 2010, 5:50 pm



Soon! I've been climbing.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4540641583615027137?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Nice thrutching at North Third
Post by: comPiler on April 17, 2010, 07:00:04 pm
Nice thrutching at North Third (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/04/nice-thrutching-at-north-third.html)
14 April 2010, 7:00 am



One of my vague Scottish sub-plans is to climb at least a route at every crag with starred Extremes in the Lowland Outcrops book (apart from some of the Galloway Hills nonsense with 3 day walk-ins). Not necessarily for top quality climbing but for the interest and diversity and love of esoteric wee crags. The other weekend I had an unexpected chance to do just that, and got both an esoteric wee crag and top quality climbing.

This is North Third, where we hadn't planned to go to. We had planned to go to Cambusbarron Quarry, which was looking increasingly implausible as I drove through heavy showers to get there. A sopping wet carpark dissuaded us from even wasting the 2 minute walk-in. After some musing on plan B (drive down to Ratho, climb outside if dry or inside if wet), Mike from Dundee decided it was too much extra driving, but said he was going to have a recce of North Third. I was curious so drove along too, "just for a look". Curiosity rewarded the cat and the crag, being considerably more open and exposed, was actually dry.

Thus (after an abortive and somewhat "steep learning curve" jamming lesson attempt by Mike) I managed to get to grips the jamming classic Jezebel, which was great, and then Flying Dragon opposite (and above) which was even greater. Jamming at it's best, at a crag with a great location and really unusual vibe, like few places I've climbed at in the UK. So I got unexpected dry rock, an unplanned esoterica tick, and undeniably good climbing. Win!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5192743466791810560?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Silly Sicily!
Post by: comPiler on April 17, 2010, 07:00:07 pm
Silly Sicily! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/04/silly-sicily.html)
15 April 2010, 7:00 am



[IF, somehow, you don't want to read all my rambling, scroll halfway down for more succinct details...]

Actually there was nothing remotely silly about it, unless one counts driving through the night to Liverpool airport to fly out there, or Ryanair deciding in their infinite wisdom to leave my bag sunning itself and no doubt ticking big numbers in my abscence when I flew bag into Liverpool.

First things first, the World Famous Helen Rogers asked me to take loads of pictures, so here is a picture of a goat:

And here is different picture of a different goat:

Hope that helps. It was quite cool to have herds of these moseying around beneath the crag, merrily clanking away in discordant disunion. To borrow the legendary George Smith's phrase, an ascent without goatbells is an ascent without dignity.

So, unsilly Sicily. Lots of people have been asking about this so I'll try to give some useful information. Firstly, my trip: Last minute plan, following the usual "doomed to failure" attempts on UKC and email to drum up some interest in more diverse climbing areas, which the Titt brothers (Portland and Swanage veterans) had seen and suggested I join them in Sicily. Very kind of them but not nearly as kind as their hospitality, guided tours of the best climbing, interesting old timer debates / ranting and Scott's supplying of good coffee. Thanks guys. Despite an initial "ho hum more Euro-Lime" thought, I had an ace trip, 21 long routes in 3 1/2 days. No huge numbers but some great - and surprisingly diverse - routes and some good challenges. Plus plenty of sleep and some nice food....trio of smoked fish with olive oil parsley and lemon nom nom nom.

Now then, some info. The area we were climbing in is San Vito, this is the local town:

Not bad eh. That "crag" in the background is a few hundred metres high, almost roadside, and has a mere handful of routes that go all the way. The photo is taken from a peninsula that juts northwards into the sea between two spectacular bays each flanked by such mountains. On the peninsula there is a very good campsite (http://www.elbahira.it/eng/default.asp?contiene=villaggio) which has a load of facilities and is....well put it this way if you got some of the closest pitches, you could belay from the tent although you might get ropedrag. Otherwise you have to brave a 1-5 minute walk. Brave a 10-15 minute drive (San Vito town is 5 mins) and you have dozens more varied crags, including the world class Never Sleeping Wall which had the best F6a+ and F6b+ I've ever done - 30m of pure tufas and blobs up a sheer wall.

Trying to keep it succinct:

Pros of Sicily:

+ Great campsite with choice of pitches, caravans, and nice wee bungalows, good showers, bar, pizzeria, swimming pool, kiddies swimming pool, and climber-friendly owners.

+ Coast is 2 mins walk away.

+ Nice town and great beach 5 mins drive away.

+ Local crags are IN the campsite.

+ Loads of crags nearby.

+ Very varied climbing for Euro Lime, all types of lime style and angle, and length from 15m cave routes to 300m mountain routes.

+ New routes being put up all the time - and all well bolted by the Titts & Co (I did the second ascent of great F6c crack that had been bolted the week before).

+ Loads of great easy routes - the Titts like putting up good easy ones (I did the second ascent of a cool F6a slab that had been bolted the day before)

+ Good diverse harder routes.

+ Masses of new route potential - including some very hard potential.

+ Crags facing sun and shade.

+ Good climate throughout autumn / winter / spring.

+ Much less crowded and polished than Choada Blanca. Plus no Benidorm in sight.

+ 50 mins easy drive from airport.

+ Cheap direct Ryanair flights.

+ Apparently there are porcupines near the campsite.

Cons of Sicily:

- Coast next to campsite is mostly jagged limestone.

- Some of the crags next to the sea can be greasy on still days.

- Choice of airports serving Trapani / Palmero is limited.

- The very newest routes can have very sharp rock.

- I didn't see any bloody porcupines.

Basically as Euro-Lime goes, it's pimp. The Titts want people to visit (nice people, not mindless hordes) and even as a sceptic I concur they have a good point. So there you go.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2847238136644360255?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Going well at Great Wanney, climbing languidly at Crag Lough
Post by: comPiler on April 18, 2010, 01:00:28 am
Going well at Great Wanney, climbing languidly at Crag Lough (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/04/going-well-at-great-wanney-climbing.html)
16 April 2010, 7:00 am



So after Sicily it was onto Northumberland for Secret Squirrel's Secret Weekend - with only a minor diversion driving to fucking Glasgow to get spare climbing kit and warfarin. Thanks Ryanair you cunts, I really appreciated the extra 4 hours driving and a total of 3 hours sleep. Genuine thanks to over-caffeinated sugary drink company and to the climbing posse for being leisurely enough that I met them at the crag parking. That crag was Great Wanney (Squirrel wisely chose to base us in Bellingham to explore the equally interesting but underused southern Northumbria area), and that name filled me with a certain amount of trepidation, because I've been wanting to do the minor classic Thin Ice (below) for years and that doing probably meant getting scared and faffing and stuff.

In the end, however, it didn't mean that at all!! After warming up on the opposite route (Broken Wing - almost as good and an essential warm-up), the World Famous Helen Rogers - as well as providing the usual excellent company AND plenty of amusement getting to grips with Wanney's easy classics - was kind enough to abseil down and clean Thin Ice (north facing crag, bit of lichen, likely first ascent of the year etc etc). And so I got on it and skated up it with a quite frankly shocking lack of fuss. This might be because it's a full grade overgraded, or it might be because it was really inspiring and just drew me on - the crux (below) being the best sequence in Northumbria, surely? Or it might be because I'm climbing well....but let's not get too silly...

Next day, after actually participating in another leisurely morning of eating bacon and stroking cows (mmm cows), the remaining members of the party sampled the diversity of the area by visiting the vaguely Tremadog-esque Crag Lough and Peel Crag. My highest aspirations at this crag were also lichenous and there was no Helen Rogers to get her brush into action, so I could relax and sample some other options. Except, in the perculiar world of grades, styles, and climbing variance, both the other options I did felt as hard as anything the previous day. Good onsight challenges, and one was a great route. And that was that. Feel very chuffed, drive back to Glasgow, battered haggis and chips and SLEEP.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8619328034217944169?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Perfect days at Polldubh.
Post by: comPiler on April 18, 2010, 01:00:34 am
Perfect days at Polldubh. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/04/perfect-days-at-polldubh.html)
17 April 2010, 6:13 pm



One of the main, but not only, reasons for being in Scotland is to be able to explore the awesome, diverse, and beautiful cragging with normal weekend trips rather than the 8 hour missions from Sheffield. The winter, variable weather, and even more variable climbing partners has made this a sometimes frustratingly distant dream even when the crags are considerably closer. But now, spring has sprung (it's raining outside as I type), the ski season is over, and the snow and ice is finally fucking off the crags.

So the cragging season is starting (well, continuing, for me) in earnest. In the recent heatwave, I managed a 2 day dash to Polldubh. I'd been years ago, an abortive 12 hour round trip of sunshine and showers and rain and midges and general utter bollox. THIS trip was considerably better. Two days of superb sunshine and terrific temperatures and classy cragging in stunning surroundings - I'd never made it up to see Steall Falls before....how damn cool is that area?!

[Land Ahoy on Black's Buttress - 15m of intense and immaculate 5a - 5b climbing to reach the first gear. Not the sort of "gritstone legbreaking horror" I usually choose these days, but a great experience nevertheless, very interesting keeping calm on fairly steady climbing in an increasingly serious position.]

Day one I seconded plenty of easy routes until late in the evening when we trekked up to Black's Buttress and I did two great slabs. Day two we trekked up to Wave Buttress - my main inspiration - first before it got too warm, and I did the legendary Edgehog (well worn, well chalked, join the dots trade route) and the adjacent Walter Wall (no chalk, less gear, a much more satisfying journey), and then finished off lounging and belaying in the sun - I got sunburnt! In the Highlands! In spring! This is the sort of trip that makes it all worthwhile, and hopefully there'll be many more when the weather allows. Basically, even more RAD, even more SYKED :D

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-9104042364374684291?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Abortive attempts at Auchinstarry, determination at Dunglas.
Post by: comPiler on April 22, 2010, 07:00:10 pm
Abortive attempts at Auchinstarry, determination at Dunglas. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/04/abortive-attempts-at-auchinstarry.html)
22 April 2010, 3:24 pm



I've been to Auchinstarry 3 times in the last few weeks, with the intention of trying something a bit more challenging i.e. Nijinski. Day 1 - warmed up, showered off. Day 2 - warmed up, showered off. Day 3 - warmed up, showered....but it passed. Oh hurrah. That meant I actually had to try it....obeying the inexplicable exhortations of my soul.

[Talking about souls, or rather the lack thereof, one thing I notice when reading about Nijinski is the vast hordes who have top-roped, or most usually attempted to top-rope it. This is....both highly vulgar and even less explicable. It's THE standout line and classic bold head-game LEAD testpiece of the Central Belt, what on earth would possess someone to waste such a quality climb by top-roping it, at very best a pointless no star muscular exercise?? As it happens when I turned up, lo and behold there was someone dangling off the end of a rope, scuffing their way around the crux with clearly no concept of the challenge involved nor the ability needed. I couldn't resist and politely suggested that if they can't do it, there was the obvious alternative of not doing it (why do people always miss this option?) and instead doing one of the superb mid-grade leads scattered around the quarry. They probably thought I was a complete cunt - "Hi, I AM a complete cunt" - and there was muttering to that effect, well, I have strong beliefs in aiming for quality climbing experiences and encouraging people to do so, rather than low quality abuse of something they shouldn't be anywhere near. This isn't a fucking climbing wall and Nijinski isn't a 3 star classic for fucking aiding your way up on a top-rope. Thankfully they packed up pretty shortly and disappeared....a bit of a sour taste was left but not as sour as if I'd kept hush and not put my real life money where my online mouth is.]

Later on I got on the route for a look. Many years ago I'd watched Grimer starting this (onsight but with pre-placed wires IIRC) and thought the lower arete looked quite worrying. When it formed in my mind as a possible idea, I was more worried about the highball start than the crux - but protected - finish. I was wrong both ways, the highball start is piss as is gaining the gear slot, and the upper crux seems inexplicable, blind, and very hard. Having teased in no less than 8 microwires into the so-called gear rack - of which 2 were actually good! - I felt fine with the fall potential but not with the failure potential. I got stood on the quartz ripple a few times (and reversed), but got bored with not knowing what to do next, so finished up Death Is...

So yeah, I asked people to not top-rope it in the context that it really should be led onsight, tried to lead it onsight, and had to escape off. What a cunt?? Well, no, not really. I was prepared to put myself out, to commit to it, to give it a go, to try to raise my game to the level the climb deserved. I was there standing on the ripple with a collection of tiny wires a few yards to the left, not sitting on a rope from above. I didn't manage it this time but I have a strong belief in the experience I am aiming for and aspiring to....I think I'll wait until I'm a better climber before I go back.

And next...

Next day I was bored with quarried basalt and trad too (a bit jaded after two good weekends at Northumberland and Polldubh) and fancied a change rather than a rest so what better than confusing, blind, over-bolted, loose, green and freezing cold esoteric sport climbing?? What better indeed. We went to Dunglas for a few hours and played on the new micro-sport wall. A bit like many such places, it's a bit crap and a bit good at the same time. It's everything I wrote above, but it's also hard, powerful, and pumpy for short routes, and therefore good training, which is sometimes all you need. Did a few routes and a couple I had to fight a bit on, so that's good. Not sure what's next but mixing it up is definitely the way. Although as usual it looks like the weather will have the final word in the near future.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-469862856935570037?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Hip HOP.
Post by: comPiler on April 23, 2010, 07:00:13 pm
Hip HOP. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/04/hip-hop.html)
23 April 2010, 1:03 pm



Pay attention to this one and trust me. If you like or even merely tolerate hip-hip-hop, you need this in your life. It is bigger than big.

Swollen Members - Armed To The Teeth (http://www.juno.co.uk/ppps/products/371867-01.htm)

[ Listen to samples rudebwoy. (http://www.juno.co.uk/playlists/builder/371867-01.m3u) ]

Swollen have always dished out some great hip-hop in their previous albums (Balance, Bad Dreams, Heavy, Monsters In The Closet & Black Magic), with deep heavy beats from Rob Tha Viking and dark quirky lyrics from Mad Child and Prevail, and they've always been a firm favourite of mine.

This album however is the next step up in dopeness. The lyrics have gone downhill a bit with much more of a gangsta style and less wierdness, although plenty of catchy choruses make up for this. The beats however are so PHAT they'd need a lifetime subscription to Weight Watchers. Not only phat but well varied from rude underground stuff to dark melodic stuff to stomping party stuff, Rob Tha Viking should be made a Saint of Sickness. Things hit the ground running with "Reclaim The Throne" and generally get better and better until track 13 "Flyest" hits and OMG BASS, I just have to rewind this one every damn time. Oh and it's all good till the end too. 2 okay tracks and 16 great ones, can't ask for much more. I listened to it 4 times in a row, nuff said. Just get it.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1678042537093100857?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Antics at Arbroath, exciting rubble at Elephant Rock.
Post by: comPiler on April 27, 2010, 01:00:27 am
Antics at Arbroath, exciting rubble at Elephant Rock. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/04/antics-at-arbroath-exciting-rubble-at.html)
25 April 2010, 7:00 am



Scotland is hardly internationally, nationally or even sub-nationally renowned for it's sport climbing. Nevertheless what it lacks in outstanding quality it makes up for in variety. From sea-cliffs to mountain crags, from pastoral outcrops to urban convenience, you can clip bolts on basalt (Dumbarton, Dunglass etc), dolerite (Benny Beg), quarried dolerite (Ratho), schist (Glen Ogle, Weem, Dunkeld etc), quarried granite (North Berwick Law), sandstone (Arbroath), quarried sandstone (Ley, Legaston etc), conglomerate (Camel, Moy Rock), rhyolite (Tunnel Wall), gneiss (Gruinard River Crags) and volcanic "stuff" (Elephant Rock). Last Saturday, with North West bouldering legend Richie Betts, I got to sample two of the more distinctive sport climbing areas...

The weather was equally distinctive - distinctive as in raining despite a dry forecast, then raining out of a clear blue sky, then gloriously sunny but with all the fields furiously steaming and sending up swirls of micro-haar. Somehow the rock - despite steaming a bit on our arrival - was in fairly good condition. Which is fairly fortunate given that Arbroath is fairly unnerving by sport climbing standards. How can 10m bolted routes be unnerving?? Well, slopey rounded sandstone and abseil approaches into hanging belay stances just above the sea, that's how. Like many such situations, once one touches rock, feels the holds, pulls some moves and gets the vibe, it's all jolly good fun in the end, and indeed it was. 4 short but valuesome routes were rattled off on short order, including a classic wee F6c, and neither us nor our kit ended up in the drink. Hurrah.

No pole, no tick. Climbing rules might seem arbitrary, but consider the spirit of the law rather than the letter of the law and it all makes sense. This was actually the hardest move of the day. There should have been harder ones pulled off, but Elephant - which somewhat joyously really does look like an elephant - faces North-ish, and the harder routes tend to follow impressive but potentially greasy cracks. Now I love a bit of greasy crack action me, but not on overhanging F7as that look like bolted Gogarth. So we left those for another day, and rattled off another 4 mid sixes in short order. Elephant is described as "a mixed volcanic intrusion" and one can't really argue with that. Mixed and weird and interesting and fun because of all that. I will be back in dry weather that's for sure. A good and interesting day out!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-7770566913188331149?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Fucking crap at Floors Craig.
Post by: comPiler on April 27, 2010, 01:00:28 am
Fucking crap at Floors Craig. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/04/fucking-crap-at-floors-craig.html)
26 April 2010, 9:31 pm



If these 10m mid-grade routes are just a wee bit steep, then why are the ab ropes so bloody far out from the cliff??

Because they're a bit more than "a wee bit" steep. More like ridiculously bloody steep. I've not really been on anything like it, nor seen much like it apart from Sanctuary Wall. Yeah this is like a mini mid-grade Sanctuary Wall. Sport climbing without bolts, and all close enough to the hard rock platforms that every bit of gear is crucial, you've got to get it right and get it right ASAP, oh and it's schist so all the holds are blind and obscure despite being generally good. Throw in a lack of chalk and a whiff of haar and it all adds up to a climbing experience which is utterly hostile to my climbing style.

I want to like this climbing, I really do. I like the coast, I like the rock, I like the look of it....I like the theory of it. I'm just crap at it. Fucking crap in fact. I think I've got my arse at least slightly kicked every time I've visited Aberdeen, and I don't mean a night out baiting the onshore offshore workers. This time swap "slightly" for "utterly" and you get the gist. 3 fairly steady warm-up routes failed on, and the bigger challenges that inspired me might as well be left for my next lifetime, preferably one where I'm reincarnated as a sea-gull. So that all sucked.

What it all boiled down to is some obvious weaknesses that are exposed - and brutally buttfucked - by this sort of terrain:

1. Fear of falling.

2. Fear of committment to a position where I might fall.

3. Lack of faith in what might lie above.

4. Lack of faith in my ability.

5. Slowness and faff placing gear.

So as always I need to learn positively from this to gain more climbing pleasure. I need to tackle this sort of terrain more, I need to do more falling practice, focus consciously on placing gear smoothly, and train my weaknesses. I also probably need to spend more time on the coast and get to grips with the rock and hopefully progress (up to square one, hah!) on it and truly enjoy it. I expect the usual "wet in the west" weather will give me some opportunity to do so.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4253538555000032889?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Reassured at Ratho.
Post by: comPiler on May 03, 2010, 01:00:56 am
Reassured at Ratho. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/05/reassured-at-ratho.html)
2 May 2010, 5:53 pm



Funny how climbing goes, isn't it. Funny haha or funny strange? Could be either.

After last Sunday's "Weekend Of Weakness" I decided I need to have a few "Hours Of Power" this week. So I did. Tuesday I went to Ibrox bouldering, that was okay, bit sweaty, a bit weak, but okay.

Then I went to Ratho... The odds seemed stacked against me. Last time I went I found it all hard work, I'd almost certainly lost wall fitness, I was crappish the previous weekend, and of course I was knackered from Ibrox bouldering. That was the theory but the reality was somewhat different, I felt fit and perky, had good route pacing and generally F6cs felt easy (unlike before) and a couple of F7as felt close (very unlike before). Raaaargh.

So far so good. Then I went back to Ratho on Saturday. Surely the previous time was a fluke combination of muscular madness and caffeine consumption, and this time it would be back to high altitude pump shutdown. That was the theory but the reality once again was somewhat different, I had the best indoor leading session I've had for about a year. Again fit and perky, but this time I did an F7a....and then another....and then another. Meaningless indoor numerical gibberish of course BUT a good benchmark of a suitable physical challenge. I got pumped, things felt tricky, and I kept going. And took a few small practice falls. Double raaaargh!

That should have topped up things nicely I think!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-3920015507339315564?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Dogging at Dumby
Post by: comPiler on May 03, 2010, 07:00:08 pm
Dogging at Dumby (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/05/dogging-at-dumby.html)
2 May 2010, 6:35 pm



Redpointing is of course an intrinsically soulless activity, a shallow exercise in muscular persistence, hard work and learning by rote that is devoid of any of the creativity and spirit found elsewhere. Nevertheless it is good practice for onsight sport climbing and onsight sport climbing is good practice for onsight trad climbing which is of course intrinsically superior and the true measure of quality climbing experiences.

Thus sometimes one must dabble. Particularly when one drives to Glen Croe for some trad and it is drizzling in Tarbet, raining in Arrochar, and distinctly damp in the Glen. Boo hiss etc and back to Dumby, where it does rain for a bit later on but is dry and fresh either side. Recently I've got a bit jaded with bouldering at Dumby - I rarely go and thus scarcely manage to warm up before getting my arse kicked. However it's one of the few crags where classic bouldering, sport, and trad sit side by side, so there are good options available. It was a nice vibe on Sunday with teams on hard bouldering, easy trad, and middling sport.

We were the latter, and middled and muddled on a few things. Specifically I dogged my way up an F7b which was fairly interesting - not sustained and not powerful, but with most of the holds being sidepulls and underclings, very sketchy on the feet and easy to muff. Mmmmm muff. I reckon it will go fine. Good training after the invariably positive indoor wall footholds. I also gave an F7a a good flash attempt, and missed it by a midge's foreskin due to a casual tactical error - clipped a bolt in extremis, got carried away with how well it was going, and rushed into the adjacent crux when I should have lowered a move, shook and chalked, and planned the crux better. Getting very close to a Scottish F7a isn't too shabby though, given how short and gnarly they can be (the routes as well as the locals).

Next up: Trad! (I hope)

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-9211231069400669248?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: BOLT THROWER!!!
Post by: comPiler on May 07, 2010, 01:00:10 am
BOLT THROWER!!! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/05/bolt-thrower.html)
6 May 2010, 8:43 pm



Bit of personal history for you.

1986 - Bolt Thrower formed.

1990 - John Peel (RIP) played their "Drowned In Torment" track which introduced me to them.

1992 - I buy their Realms Of Chaos CD.

1993 Saturday 15th August - see Bolt Thrower live at the London Marquee, my second ever gig.

1993 Wednesday 19th August - my ears stop ringing.

1994 - for some bizarre reason I get rid of the Realms Of Chaos CD as I find it too rabid. What a gaylord.

2004 - get back into metal. Buy various CDs including 4th Crusade and Mercenary.

2009 - finally restock with the Realms Of Chaos, Warmaster, and their latest and equal greatest For Those Once Loyal.

2010 - see Bolt Thrower live again, 17 years on, and they are still awesome. Finally get to purchase a highly exclusive hoodie and beanie.

It was an ace gig. What makes Bolt Thrower great is how they are so heavy and so catchy at the same time - they manage to blend a dense wall of sound with such strong riffs and drumming that is both brutal and surprisingly groovy. It would be hard not to mosh along and I didn't even try to resist. The crowd were well syked, from kids who just appreciate a class grindcore sound, to veterans who have been following them for two decades. Karl Willets looked fat, sweaty, old, and still full of energy and excitement at delivering the mighty Bolt Thrower sound \m/ YEAH \m/

Well worth going to. I think I need to see Carcass next if they're still touring...

Here's a selection of their best stuff, Throughout The Ages:

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8968166292671901598?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: WHERE ARE MY NUTS??
Post by: comPiler on May 13, 2010, 07:00:12 pm
WHERE ARE MY NUTS?? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/05/where-are-my-nuts.html)
13 May 2010, 9:00 am



(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2187905319644257930?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Backlog Blog!!
Post by: comPiler on May 19, 2010, 07:00:12 pm
Backlog Blog!! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/05/backlog-blog.html)
19 May 2010, 9:00 am



Previous weekends as follows:

Sorry for all the number bollox but it's been a good run and I can't be arsed to write anything more interesting.

Desires come true at Duntelchaig

Before I considered moving to Scotland, I had 3 routes I'd seen photos of that had really inspired me. I did Edgehog a few weeks ago, and then managed to get to Dracula, which really is a good steep E3 5c crack and not an HVS jamming traverse lke it looks in the photos... One more to go....soon ;). Now I have a thousand more inspirations from my being up here, though.

Dracula E3 5c ***

The All Seeing Eye Font6c ** (flash)

Awesome at Ardmair

I liked Ardmair a lot before, and I like it even more now. Apparently the home of gritty rounded rock and steep jamming sandbags....more like the home of good holds, good gear, and generous grades!

Shakedown E3 5c **

Western Skyline E4 6a **

Space Monkey E2 5c ***

Unleash The Beast E4 6a ***

Lovely day at Lochan Dubh

Originally the plan had been to go to Inverthingy Rock Gym, but since Richie had ticked the crag, we needed another option. A brisk Northerly wind precluded many of the more interesting Gairloch crags, but the sunny and scenic Lochan Dubh seemed a sensible choice. Nice to get on the gneiss, and satisfying to do some big pitches.

The Missing Link E2 5b *

Call Of The Wild E4 6a ***

Minimal respite at Moy Rock

Finally to route off a diverse weekend of schisty stuff, sandstone and gneiss, we added conglomerate into the mix, well indeed it is a mix in itself. It's always fascinated me and Inverness seems the home of UK conglomerate sport climbing. Bizarre and intriguing, who could ask for more. Well, apart from a bit more fitness and freshness after a long weekend...

Little Teaser F6b+ ***

The Dark Side F6c/+ **

Power at Portlethen

As with pretty much everywhere on the Aberdeen coast, Portlethen has shut my ass down. Time for revenge, well only a little bit - small numbers! Under the watchful eye of Mr Big Numbers - indeed the power was his this session, with a massive run of macho problems - I managed to do a couple of previous nemesii fairly steadily. So that was nice. I don't suck that much after all.

Slap And Tickle Font6b+ ** (worked)

The Prow Font6c *** (worked)

Balls conditions at Balmashanner

The lovely Lyons decided a nice sunny evening was best spent clipping bolts in a dank festering hole in the ground, and who was I to argue?? Climbing is a broad church, right?? Apart from bloody mountaineering, that's an entirely different church with it's fair share of wizened old weirdos and kiddy fiddlers. Anyway and alas, Balmashanner really was dank and festering so I warmed up on one lead and warmed down on one errr aid pitch, and that was that. Ace dinner though.

Start The Fire F6b+ **

Climbing really okay at Clashrodney

Next up for my Crushing Aberdeen weekend was a bit of a granite taster. Clashrodney is a nice place with nice climbing, most of which I avoided by sticking to steep and pokey stuff, but that was cool, it turned out to be good fun and give me some confidence. Notably the hardest route felt easy and the easier routes felt hard. Hmmm.

Yellow Peril E1 5b *

Birthday Treat E1 5b ***

Blind Faith E3 5c **

Finishing nicely at Findon Ness

Already evening but with a showery morning forecast the next day, I was determined to get a bit more out of the day, and get a bit more action on the steep and worrying metamorphic schist that spanked my arse sideways a few weeks prior. This time there was distinct progress - my plan of "lots of chalk, slam in the cams, move quick and trust to good holds" seemed to work. There was a bit of a blip going off route on the ambiguous Siva-Guru connection and sitting on the gear before realising I'd ignored a piss easy finish. I can live with that, I got way more pumped attempting the off route version and resting for 10 seconds than if I'd gone direct (a clearer description would help!) initially. Spirit of the law rather than merely the letter of the law!

Siva-guru E3 5c **

Armed Conflict E1 5b **

Mini-beasting at Munich Buttress

A recent inspiration has been the well photographed Monkey Puzzle at Longhaven Quarries. Well photographed and justifiably so as it is an ace tower of rock - strong and dramatic lines up a striking pillar. Both routes I did were brilliant, the mini-beasting came from approx 3m of crux climbing in Jammy Dodger - nope I didn't dodge the jams and yep it was the hardest bit of crack climbing I did on lead. Raaaargh.

Monkey Puzzle E3 5c **

American Route / Jammy Dodger E3 6a **

Final words from the lean and mean Aberdeen legend, regular Font 7a+ ticker, and attempted Jammy Dodger seconder Amanda Lyons:

I'LL FOOKIN' KILL YOU LITTLE MAN!!!!
:D

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4157059023478395543?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Bloody long walk-in to Ben Ledi.
Post by: comPiler on May 24, 2010, 01:00:17 am
Bloody long walk-in to Ben Ledi. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/05/bloody-long-walk-in-to-ben-ledi.html)
23 May 2010, 8:54 pm



Ben Ledi bouldering is somewhat unusual compared to the schist I've discovered so far. Smeggy sit-start lowballs?? Nope, good high - and often highball - proper boulders. Abstract and unconvincing eliminates?? Nope, proud distinct lines and sheer walls. Snappy flakey rock hidden under slightly more solid lichen?? Nope, clean rough compact schist. Random unmanageable and ankle-hostile boulder jumbles?? Nope, all situated on a fine plateau just 5 minutes from a good track.

So....what's the catch?? Oh yes, getting to that fine plateau, via that good track. The bouldering guide says 30mins on the map and 40mins in the introduction (the bouldering guide is similarly useless when it comes to the walk-in path and the grades of lower grade problems). Lowland Outcrops says 50mins. I say an a full hour if you're stomping it, and at least 1hr 30mins if you're me and you've got fucked legs. Throw in two bouldering mats and a sweltering afternoon sun, and throw out any pretense at being able to bear down when I finally got there. Pity as it was quite inspiring in both the setting and more importantly the climbing. I might go back but it will require a greater logistical overview (probably including a power nap and cans of over-caffeinated sugary drink company!). On the plus side, the stomp, combined with bonus gym session in the morning, was some good cross-training that will hopefully encourage good crushing.

In the meantime, here is Charlie Baker trying to decide on his next bouldering venue, preferably with a shorter walk-in and more tasty meat nibbles:

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5193879460820389048?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Kinda nice day in Knapdale.
Post by: comPiler on May 25, 2010, 07:00:16 pm
Kinda nice day in Knapdale. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/05/kinda-nice-day-in-knapdale.html)
25 May 2010, 11:35 am



Kilmichael of Inverlussa is 52 miles from Glasgow as the crow flies, but 97 miles as the car drives, and that drive dwindles from motorway, to dual carriageway A-road, to fast trunk A-road, slow trunk A-road, normal A-road, B-road, single track B-road, minor road, and finally 4WD track as one gets further out in the sticks. This is the sort of place that people who live in the arse end of nowhere go on holiday to get away from it all.

The location makes for an extremely long journey for a single day out, but exploratory lust sometimes demands such escapades. The lust was directed to Creag Nam Fitheach, Knapdale's justifiably premier crag, and the single day was generally very nice - scenery, company, climbing and quite splendid tan-topping weather. The "kinda" comes from the detractions of the drive and also the crag base, a chaotic and overgrown boulder jumble which rivals North Third as The Worst Crag Base of 2010 and is highly incongruous with the convenience of the climbing and tranquility of the setting - there is little option to lounge and relax, unless you are a small-footed midget who likes relaxing whilst standing on one leg on the tiny patio of stable ground formed by the lone flat boulder.

Other than that it's all very reminiscent of a mini-Tremadog in rock feel and features, minus the queues of Classic Rock ticking drones. Strong geometries, rough angular rock, and good climbing. In the end I mostly puntered and avoided a couple of inspiring but sterner challenges. Nevertheless, being Easy Trad(tm) it was Good Fun(tm).

I also had an interesting learning experience on something slightly trickier, a slim, thin, and awkward looking groove. I wasn't really sure about it but thought I'd just "give it a look" and see what gear I could get in the start. One of my few natural talents with climbing (aside from downclimbing and spending ages in awkward and cunning rests) is fiddling in good gear, and Lo! shortly I was surprisingly well protected. So then I thought I'd just "give the moves a look", and promptly took advantage of that good gear by poinging off. Disappointing as I was actually giving it a go, but I had the useful realisation that I had been quite non-committal initially, and although I committed when I'd sorted good gear, I'd still been pretty casual about the climbing. Part of me had realised "hey I'm safe I can give this a go", but I hadn't turned that into full determination and concentration. If I'd made a conscious switch from "give it a look" to "climb it" then I probably would have climbed it!! Something to note for the future.

The end of a nice day:

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1838777912945356870?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Cruising at Cambusbarron.
Post by: comPiler on May 27, 2010, 01:01:02 am
Cruising at Cambusbarron. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/05/cruising-at-cambusbarron.html)
26 May 2010, 9:28 pm



Yes, cruising, honestly - it sometimes happens! I occasionally get up slightly challenging climbs, which is invariably due to my uncanny ability to downclimb to rests and often milk the most awkward rests and shakeouts like they are a quad of ripe bulging udders, and almost invariably involves a lot of stress, swearing, and substantial battling, partly with the climb's challenge but mostly with my own psychological demons.

However, that is almost invariably and sometimes that variance includes climbing "normally", unhampered by those demons, and with a modicum of confidence and smoothness. Hard to believe but rest assured it's a rarity. This evening was one of those rare occurences. I bought one packet of Polos and two bottles of midge repellent, cut all the superfluous straps and tags off his rucsac, went to Cambusbarron, seconded a couple of easier routes, warmed up on the challenging "Quantum Grunt" which was quite stiff but I got up it, got on the slightly more challenging testpiece "Big Country Dreams", downclimbed to a rest, milked another rest like a quad of bulging ripe udders, and surprised myself by sailing to the top. Nice to climb something well for a change, and as with almost every challenging route I've done this year, they were both really good. Hurrah.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-645890678012880662?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Bugger up at Butterbridge.
Post by: comPiler on May 29, 2010, 01:00:21 am
Bugger up at Butterbridge. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/05/bugger-up-at-butterbridge.html)
28 May 2010, 8:44 pm



The bugger up wasn't mine! I did fine - I went out to boulder, warmed up, wirebrushed a bit, sat out a shower, wrestled with the usual complete bollox Stone Country guide mis-descriptions / mis-grades, and eventually did a couple of cool problems in good fresh conditions, including this:

And the first ascent of this:

Butters V3 **, named in honour of Bbb-bb-but-but-buttttters (http://blogofbutters.blogspot.com/) who seems quite chuffed having done Strawberries recently.

The bugger up came with this:

Part way through my tickling around, I became aware the traffic was starting to go somewhat awry, around a combination of small car transporter and derailed white van, scarcely a few hundred yards from where I was sat (sit starts, you see). 4 police cars, 2 ambulances, 2 fire engines, a salvage truck and a helicopter later, it became obvious things weren't going to move any time soon. All of which was quite interesting in a detached sort of way, except that this was my main route back to Glasgow, and I needed to be back swiftly. Attempted swiftness turned to inevitable sluggishness when my chosen detour route became a nightmare of HGVs having to pass each other on single lane country roads and finally ground to a gridlock. About turn and leg it to Dunoon and catch the ferry back, which is a reassuringly smooth and rather fun experience, apart from it contribution in turning an hour's return into 2 1/2 hours. Ho hum!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5098225723500871170?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Minor beasting at Myopics Buttress, plus Arse At Aberdeen.
Post by: comPiler on June 01, 2010, 07:00:11 pm
Minor beasting at Myopics Buttress, plus Arse At Aberdeen. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/06/minor-beasting-at-myopics-buttress-plus.html)
1 June 2010, 3:17 pm



Not a great exploratory weekend just passed, but not a bad training on either. Haven't really pushed myself much physically recently, but ended up going back to Dunkeld with Little Miss Crushalot, and this time to Myopics Buttress where the short bouldery climbs might suit her legendary Aberdeen-honed strength. Whether they did or didn't is for her to answer, but I got roped into a good dogging session too. Had a good play on the steep and powerful "classic of the buttress" and a good rotpunkt attempt which I very nearly got but had missed crucial foot beta and then when I got the beta I ran out of strength. Still that felt like it gave me a good workout which is nice.

The next day at Aberdeen was not so nice, possibly due to that minor beasting. Despite good fresh conditions (sunshine and breeze), another good partner (Canadian b-Rad), and an inspiring cliff (Craig Stirling), I failed on one of my desired routes there, due to utter pump and fiddling in shoddy gear and missing better gear slots. Uggggh. Oh and I lost a shoe in the sea and got hit by a wave when I abseiled too low and nearly went off the road and nearly got done by two speed cameras on the way home. Thankfully a scheduled early return precluded any further climbing / sea-related debacles, but it was quite disappointing given I've been doing okay recently. Once again mastery or even competence at Aberdeen sea-cliff climbing eludes me... Hopefully the weather will allow me to head west and avoid it for a while!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8173195264977633892?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Stronnng Fiend STRONNNG!
Post by: comPiler on June 01, 2010, 07:00:13 pm
Stronnng Fiend STRONNNG! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/06/stronnng-fiend-stronnng.html)
1 June 2010, 3:59 pm



LOL

Not really strong, just overuse of my right hand hmmmm...

Also, have a picture of pussy:

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-812147980860343793?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Very little climbing at various lovely crags.
Post by: comPiler on June 21, 2010, 07:00:09 pm
Very little climbing at various lovely crags. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/06/very-little-climbing-at-various-lovely.html)
21 June 2010, 11:53 am



Climbing trips - sometimes you win 'em, sometimes you lose 'em. Recently I've won a few, so in the grand karmic balance it's not that surprising to lose one.

In recent years I've become very inspired by the Caithness area - lovely looking sea-cliff outcrops, reasonable approaches, peaceful area, benevolent (for Scotland!!) climate, what's not to like?? Finally I got up there with the now free and fearsome Lyons, however due to various circumstances the promised mega-ticking-trip didn't happen. The climate had a moment of malevolence, mixing midges and mizzle in equal quantities - it was climbable, but not captivating conditions. Mrs L, although big and strong, is just getting back into trad, and found the prospect of abbing into the deep blue sea to be somewhat in at the deep end, and was also not a fan of the funky rock. Pulling a brick-sized hold off onto on her on the first evening might not have helped matters in that regard *gulp*. So it was decided to leave this area for a more experienced / more gullible party. On the plus side, I got a good recce of many great routes, the Wick campsite is very nice and very cheap, and there's a good curry house in town.

In recent days I've become extremely inspired by the Caithness area....and will be back soon!!

Retreat was beaten via: Strathconnon - okay but too hot and too midgey; Cummingston - kinda cool but too late and too greasy; Cullen Caves - ugly choss but good fun power bouldering, unfortunately Cullen Skink in Cullen was somewhat disappointing; The Neuk - thanks once again to Mr S and Mrs L for putting me up with another top quality DVD choice too; Luath Boulders - nice rock but rubbish micro-bouldering; and finally Glen Clova - lovely evening, fairly inspiring, but so knackered due to low-level gayflu that I quit after seconding a couple of routes.

Thusly a rather flaccid non-celebration of midsummer. Long trip, lots of crags, little climbing. Best just to view this as a recce and recuperation time - I think a wee break to let the gayflu settle, then a guns blazing return with maximum SYKE is the best plan. Raaargh.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1315019947478827348?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Fallin'
Post by: comPiler on June 22, 2010, 07:00:12 pm
Fallin' (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/06/fallin.html)
22 June 2010, 4:40 pm



I very rarely take trad (or indeed sport) leader falls while climbing. I am far too cowardly for that - scared of falling, scared of the prospect of falling, scared of committing to a situation where I might fall. Although I'm not actually scared when I am falling, the transition from attached and climbing to detached and falling is too much for my poor wee brain to handle. This is probably the biggest hurdle in my climbing and holds me back the most out of any psychological issue. Hence a constant battle to overcome it, and hence semi-regular falling practice at the climbing wall.

Curiously, I have taken more trad leader falls in the last few weeks than I have in the previous decade, as follows:

Thing Of Beauty, Aonach Dubh - short jump off onto gear after going off route due to fucking useless guidebook description and ambiguous line, and getting too pumped to reverse.

Freakout, Aonach Dubh - proper fall due to terminal pump and literally not being able to hang on.

Legover, Creag Dubh - proper fall due to pulling a hold off.

Susan, Mid Clyth - small slump onto gear due to pulling a hold off.

Curiously, although perhaps unsurprisingly, this hasn't made me any less scared of falling. Booo. The Freakout fall was the best and most properist, several metres due to rope stretch, and at the time I was going for it and trying to do a move knowing that I might well fall. The others were pretty minor, maybe this is why - I'm getting used to dropping onto gear but not getting used to committing a long way above it. My fear is quite in proportion to the length of the fall, even though the falling sensations and safety are no worse at all with longer falls. All of which leads me to conclude....ummmm....ahhhh....oh well. Back to the drawing board...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1148464403437401543?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on June 23, 2010, 09:05:28 am
Matt,

Nice camping too

http://www.inver-caravan-park.co.uk/ (http://www.inver-caravan-park.co.uk/)

Good access for Latheronwheel, and food at pub down the road is OK (or was when we were there) in spite of sombre appearance.
Title: Backlog Blog.
Post by: comPiler on July 01, 2010, 12:12:22 pm
Backlog Blog. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/07/backlog-blog.html)
1 July 2010, 7:00 am



Previous weekends as follows:

Sorry for all the number bollox but it's been a mixed run and I can't be arsed to write anything more interesting.

Puntering about at Pass Of Ballater

Not a lot to say about Pass Of Ballater. I went years ago, lead a VS, belayed someone up an 8m VDiff for an hour, then it rained. This time I came back a wee bit fitter and stronger and syked for some harder routes there. However it seems like every harder route seems to involve a ridiculously hard start up the natural line and an indirect rambling bollox variant, or an unstarred easier variant up the natural line and a highly starred and unnaturally harder rambling bollox variant. It's all a bit odd. The most inspiring lines are in the nasty-little-gritstone-ankle-snapper vein and although cool need to be left for a cooler day. So in the end there was a lot of anger on Anger and Lust (mistakenly thinking the finish would be hard and getting very stressed before realising it was piss, just like the route overall), errr and also I swallowed a fly whilst belaying my partner on his crucial crux move. Hmmm.

Anger And Lust E2 5c ***

Rattlesnake Variant E2 5c **

Wee bit o'bumbling at Weem boulders

Trying to mix and match and do a bit of training to progress with the ever challenging and all important trad onsighting, I diverted to Weem to try some of the bouldering there. Initially impressions of a sheer clean wall above a lovely leafy landing in a sun-dabbled glade are very promising, but like almost all Scottish bouldering venues, there's some crucial deficit - in this case, most of the lines are properly highball with blind, rounded finishes. Not hard but not very enticing for the lone boulderer with two soggy mats. I puntered around, got good at reversing from the top, and had a promising play on the eliminate and arbitrary but kinda fun (and reassuringly lowball) "The Chop".

Some fun at South Yardhope

People sometimes ask me if I've done much climbing in Northumberland... "Only at Back Bowden, Bowden, Berryhill, Callerhues, Corby's Crag, Crag Lough, Curtis Crag, Drakestone, Great Wanney, Goat Crag, Jack Rock, Kyloe In, Kyloe Out, Peel Crag, Ravensheugh, Rothley, Sandy Crag, Selby's Cove, and Simonside", I answer casually with a smug lack of modesty. I do like the County and I do like exploring around it, and I got to do so this weekend, continuing in strict alphabetical order with South Yardhope. Like many "off radar" Northumberland crags, it has great lines that are currently in rubbish condition and need a keen local to clean them up, and a few classics that have stayed climbable. I warmed up on one of those, and got to grips with the seemingly not-classic but actually almost-classic-apart-from-fragile-flakes Stella. This provided a good logistical challenge, good climbing, and a tasty dose of fear. A fine route.

The Arete HVS 5b ***

Stella E4 5c **

Back to Scotland and way up to Rosehearty...

Rock heaven at Rosehearty

Back to Rosehearty after many years. Like Ballater, I'd been before, had a wee bumble, and got inspired to come back and tackle some meatier fare. This I did. The meatier fare was tough, punishing, but good Aberdeen-style steepness. I seemed to spend ages hanging around resting on grim semi-handjams. Well it worked. There was a moment of madness on ...Roses when after a huge effort to deal with the pump and gear and stuff, I pulled a hold off the top. Yet another one!! Strong or just fat?? You decide.

The highlight of the day was a more atypical experience, though: At the end of the day, after a lovely comfy belaying session in the evening sun with waves lapping nearby, I fancied a change so ventured onto the slabbier inner walls. Despite being quite familiar with culm/greywacke style slabs, I ended up a bit of a gibbering wreck on my chosen climb. Resting at a 1/3rd height break, trying to make sense of the maze of seams, dimples, and micro-flakes above, I got myself completely syked out. How could I commit when there seemed to be so little to go for?? "I'm not feeling the love..." I said. But....I eventually took one step to stand in the break. Unnerving. Another step up onto thin footholds. Hmmm. I'm in balance. Okay there's a wee cam. And a wire. Another step. A pocket for my hand. Nubbins for my feet....they're sticking. A good RP. Crimps....hey I'm doing this....hey I'm loving this. Bit by bit I tip-toed up the climb, and tip-toed back into the passion of climbing. Stepping outside the comfort zone and into the pleasure zone, it was a great experience.

Afterglow E2 5b ***

Coming Up Roses E3 5c ***

Tango On The Black E3 5c **

Extremely rubbish at Elephant Rock

It was one of "those" days A L'Heffalump. Great weather, good conditions, dry rock, chalked routes, low tide, plenty of time, good company, feeling fine. Climbing....utterfuckingbollox. Scraped up a warm-up. Got on something harder, couldn't do the start. Got on something a bit easier than something harder, couldn't do the start (think a hold might be missing). Got on one of the main inspiring challenges, put in some effort, foot slipped, I fell off. Arse. Everything stacked in one's favour except one's ability to climb. The only obvious factor was the grindingly painful rock on the warm-up route, which set an offputting sore hands theme for the day. A day in which the highlight was playing with a hermit crab - no bad thing in itself I suppose, hmph!!

Beware Of The Wellyfish F6b **

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-7085434956139066366?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Swansong.
Post by: comPiler on July 02, 2010, 01:00:10 pm
Swansong. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/07/swansong.html)
2 July 2010, 7:00 am



http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2648

I've been on and off the UKC forums for years. On with a lot of ranting and belligerence and generally being, for better or worse, a bit of a UKC personality, and off getting banned twice, avoiding them during non-climbing periods, and generally getting exasperated and staying clear until needs (Lifts and Partners) must. I think I've got to a stable state of play now where I stick to finding people to climb with in Scotland and the odd bit of Scottish information, and stay out of the rest.

The article above is my swansong, partly an acknowledgement of the climbing community, partly something I've been meaning to write for ages in response to my own experiences, but also seeing many experiences from many friends and just the climbing public in general. Hopefully it will be a useful reference guide for people, and a fitting conclusion to my previously major involvement with the forums.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1441100143341693584?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: The Destroyer
Post by: comPiler on July 03, 2010, 01:00:09 pm
The Destroyer (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/07/destroyer.html)
3 July 2010, 7:00 am



3 weeks. 3 routes. 3 holds pulled off - one small crimp and two brick-sized blocks. 3 falls taken.

W

T

F

?

?

?

Am I too strong? Too fat? Too unlucky?

These acts of crag dismantling have hardly been on Lleyn style chossheaps... One of those routes was an unstarred route, albeit an obvious line at "Scotland's most important roadside crag". Another was on a quiet crag, albeit a 3 star route. The other was only a 2 star route, albeit a photo tick in a well used guide. Not exactly what one expects. Maybe it is the harsh winter and freeze/thaw - I expect the coastal crags saw their first snow for the first time in ages. Or maybe it is just Scotland full stop....stepping into the wilds, compared to Rhinnog popular end ;). Maybe I should stick to Lleyn style chossheaps, at least that way I'd expect it and climb accordingly!!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-6783700900640585290?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Taking the tick.
Post by: comPiler on July 05, 2010, 01:00:28 am
Taking the tick. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/07/taking-tick.html)
4 July 2010, 7:00 am



Generally, I like the onsight climbing experience and accepting the challenge that entails. Start at the bottom, use only the information from the guidebook and your own eyes, and climb just that route to the top under your own steam, using the safety system for protection only. This gives the joyous journey of discovery up the climb, seeing how it unfolds and relying on yourself to deal with that en route (which is obviously what makes onsight climbing objectively superior to any other form).

It also, for me, involves the challenge "as described" and "as intended". If I'm tackling a particular challenge, I am tackling THAT challenge, in the normal and intended conditions. If I can't manage that challenge as is, I accept that. If, however, something outside of the remit of that challenge occurs, I will give myself some leeway as to whether I feel I've satisfactorily tackled that challenge. I.e. if I fail, or rest, or whatever due to external or abnormal circumstances, and I get straight back on, knowing that I was climbing the challenge and would have completed it, then I will continue as normal and consider that I have done that climb. Not a perfect ascent, and not as enjoyable an experience, but a fair grey area.

For example...

It rains.

A sheep falls on you.

Your belayer falls asleep.

You stick your finger in a pocket and get stung by a bee.

Or attacked by a hairy Baboon Spider (this happened :( )

You go off-route due to white herrings or  guidebook misdescription.

You or your belayer get hit by a freak wave contain several irate seals.

You pull a hold off a supposedly solid climb.

Etc etc

...are things in the grey area that are outside one's control, outside one's climbing skills, and outside the challenge one tackles.

Obviously - see previous post - the "pulling holds off supposedly solid climbs" issue is on that's foremost in my mind. Both of the two climbs I completed after pulling holds of and falling off, I will write them in my logbook as I climbed them - I was climbing them, I was pulling onto easy ground, and I would have done the move fine. I had tackled the challenge intended, and unexpected hold detachment was not part of that. This did get me wondering, would I feel the same climbing at South Stack or the Lleyn?? Well I think different rules apply there - those venues are not "supposedly solid" :), and one has to tackle that terrain in different ways, it IS part of the challenge.

Remember, spirit of the law, not letter of the law...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8517119819657825598?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Cunning.
Post by: comPiler on July 07, 2010, 07:00:06 pm
Cunning. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/07/cunning.html)
7 July 2010, 7:00 am



Climbing is fun. Trad climbing is fun. Placing gear (except when in extremis) is fun. Placing weird, deviant, obscure and cunning gear is fun - and a fun I can particularly revel in. Part tactics, part engineering, part gameplay, part perversion. I like the idea of playing within the trad onsighting rules and using all the tools, tips, and protection available to go to the limits of those rules to make serious and bold routes safe and feasible.

Running belayers with ground anchors with DMM Revolver crabs in, cumulative collections of several individually poor RPs, slings over blunt spikes with fingertape holding them in place (strips of tape taken up on helmet), skyhooks tied down to ground anchors....all of these I've used to good effect. I have more ideas in the pipeline, but here is a picture of the latest:

This is Stella, a really cool wall/slab at South Yardhope, but a really bold one without some....cunning. There's an obvious flakey jug mid-way through the tricky climbing, but this is also both thin and sloping. Thin enough that a wire would pull through and a cam would snap it off, sloping enough that a sling would slide off. Thus a sling tied to a rope that goes through a sling on a boulder way out left and back to the belayer. So I get up to the flake, place the sling, the belayer pulls the rope tight, keeping the sling pulling leftwards onto the widest and most solid part, rather than down, right, and off. Whether the flake would definitely hold I don't know, but it gives it, and me, a fighting chance. Lucky too, as the next moves are still a bit sketchy. Great route, good cunning :).

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8518222902015163989?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Perthshire power.
Post by: comPiler on July 08, 2010, 01:00:14 pm
Perthshire power. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/07/perthshire-power.html)
8 July 2010, 7:00 am



Due to unfortunate weather my hugely desired plans to get to Lewis, Skye and Caithness are postphoned for a bit. The usual sunshine and showers bollox, wet in the west and okay for local trips but not trips away. Disappointing as my inspiration lies firmly in the Western Isles, but in the meantime it's a good excuse to train, so that's what I did....

Day 1 I went to Rob's Reed, a newish sport climbing crag near Forfar. Like many such venues it is Scottish climbing at it's unfinest, yet it is also quite cool and interesting - a long, sheer wall of conglomerate sitting on a sandstone base, all shaded by trees but thankfully not too sheltered so conditions were reassuringly fresh. The sandstone provides thin bouldery starts, the conglomerate provides blind and pumpy finishes, and detachable pebbles provide a delicate yet pungent seasoning. Amazingly, given my recent track record (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/07/destroyer.html), I didn't pull anything off. I even managed to stay mostly attached myself, and did a few good routes. Unfortunately my partner needed to leave so it was a somewhat truncated session.

Flashing The Peel Sessions in a bright yellow t-shirt and Bolt Thrower beanie. Naturally I first heard Bolt Thrower on the John Peel shown when he played this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2QsOkDIf_Y).

Evening 1 I tried to get some Aberdeen locals out to the sea-cliffs but to no avail, thus I headed off into the wilds of Glen Clova for a spot of bouldering. This was one of the many areas on my winter bouldering ticklist last year, but as it turned out I didn't really need to go in winter - a fresh breeze was blustering down the Glen and made for excellent conditions for July. I booked in at the Glen Clova Hotel hostel (which is the weirdest fucking place I've ever stayed, I stayed 6 years ago, it was bizarre then and it's just as bizarre now. A completely enclosed airless kitchen behind the drying room, surrounded by box rooms that have a door into a shower/toilet on the outside - complete with single curtain rail to ensure the toilet gets soaked during a shower - leading into a similarly airless and lightless bunkroom cell. The faint hissing of some malignant air conditioning rounds off the prison-like claustrophobia nicely and ensures the all important unwelcome feeling and sleepless night.) Anyway, checked in, headed up the Glen, no-one there, had a great evening bouldering on my own. Unlike most Scottish areas the bouldering is actually half decent, the main problem is the guide is bollox as usual. Once I found the actual lines, I pulled hard(-ish) and felt I was training okay.

Black Dyke resident disapproving of us as much as we disapproved of him:

Day 2 was back to Rob's Reed, via a lengthy detour Aberdeenwards to check out The Black Dyke. Unfortunately two of the better-looking warm-up routes were nesty and my partner was not inspired, so after much ummming and ahhing we went back for more training. Armed with a handwritten guide I explored more of the crag and had a better session. Pulled hard, got pumped, nearly came off one route on a wild gaston through to pocket, gritted teeth and held it. All good training for the greater Isles...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2326506349041071063?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Grinding away at Garheugh.
Post by: comPiler on July 13, 2010, 01:00:05 pm
Grinding away at Garheugh. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/07/grinding-away-at-garheugh.html)
13 July 2010, 10:31 am



The weather is still stopping away trips, so I'm alternating between indulging other hobbies and the occasional training session. This weekend was visiting my mum and mostly a very chilled out time drinking strong coffee and painting toy soldiers, but I also diverted back to Glasgow via Garheugh. It's a nice wee greywacke crag opposite to the Stranraer peninsula, short on routes but long on bouldering, which is actually, surprisingly, consistently good. I've been a couple of times for both styles but not really tackled the bouldering when I'm fully fit.

Bouldering versus routes. It's all a matter of scale.

This time I had three goals: 1. Go somewhere nice and scenic to climb. 2. Train myself hard in preparation for trad trips. 3. Do some of the classic problems. Well, two out of three ain't bad. The only thing I really got up was repeating my own problem, Brunch. I wasn't sure how good it was, but looking at it on this visit, it's clearly a good if minor line, certainly better than some of the described problems (like the chossy wall to the left). I wasn't sure if it was worth the grade, but reclimbing it on this visit, it's clearly a taxing enough move, certainly worth the effort. Naturally it's missed out of the Scottish Bouldering guide to make way for some wank eliminates and overhyped non-classics elsewhere.

I should have also had a video of the crag classic Bowfinger (which is a great bit of rock and not overhyped!). Instead I had dozens of videos of me falling off it. This is a cool, committing, and very Font-esque problem, graded V4/5 (Font 6c wtf that means). I regularly go to Font and do V4-V6 problems in a few goes, often after driving 12 hours and 1 hour's sleep on the ferry. Naturally this so-called """V4/5""" took me a few hours and I still couldn't do it. There might be some issue with the top being highly morpho (reaching a seam with feet under a bulge in another seam, or not reaching as the case may be), but I suspect the main issue is the grading being typically Scottish i.e. fucking shite. Still it is cool and now I have some vague idea of the Numbers (it's desperate to work as you can't pull on, only climb it), I will be back. Nice venue.

Returning to Glasgow past the watchful gaze of Ailsa Craig.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2724834345029389978?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Wee bit of fun at Weem.
Post by: comPiler on July 19, 2010, 01:00:08 pm
Wee bit of fun at Weem. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/07/wee-bit-of-fun-at-weem.html)
19 July 2010, 8:43 am



One of the first places I climbed when I moved to Scotland, apart from a fairly mediocre trip to Aberdeen, was a fairly mediocre trip to Weem. I met up with Mister Guidebook Writer Gary Latter, asked him why he had missed out the entire Aberdeen and Moray coast, didn't get a satisfactory answer, struggled to walk up the short hill to the crag, bumbled around a bit, and had to dog an easy warm-up route. I didn't go back to Weem, he didn't reply to any further emails about meeting up for climbing...

This time I managed weedeem myself and get a wee bit of weevenge on my weeturn (okay I'll stop this now). I stomped up the hill in one go (and nearly fainted when I reached the crag), got on said easy warm-up route - I'd forgotten enough to warrant doing it again, indeed I had plenty of surprises on route, including how utterly SHITE the bolting is, out of 7 bolts I think only one of them is in the right place, the others are so obviously misplaced - and did it despite that nonsense and it being completely undergraded. I did another route which was completely overgraded, and then tackled one of the main slab pitches, Confessions Of Faith. Gary had fallen off this one when I was there previously, so I was expecting a challenge and I wasn't disappointed in that nor the quality. A nourishing core of fairly desperate slab moves on underclings and blind feet, wrapped in a meaty coating of general crimpy slab climbing and a crisp outer shell of a sustained and surprisingly pumpy finish. A perfect Scotch Egg of a route - really tasty and highly recommended.

That was it for the day as I had a young lady to "attend" to, but it was enough to keep my hand in while waiting for summer to return....

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-3679155037591462003?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Warfarin second ascent.
Post by: comPiler on August 11, 2010, 01:29:00 pm
Warfarin second ascent. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/07/warfarin-second-ascent.html)
29 July 2010, 7:10 am



I'm taking it. I suspect the FA was on the medication but I'd be very surprised if any subsequent ascentionists were. No anti-coag, no tick ;). I did it in one pitch on a mild still day and had the sweatiest ropedraggiest experience I've had for a long time. At one point my belayer could see sweat dripping off my back. At the end I had to crawl to the belay, hauling my own body weight on left rope. Bleh!! Good route tho, a fine adventure for an outcrop.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-7874553080111937193?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: There is a Plan B.
Post by: comPiler on August 11, 2010, 01:29:00 pm
There is a Plan B. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/07/there-is-plan-b.html)
1 August 2010, 7:10 am



The waiting game continues - the weather still too rubbish and unreliable in the all-important North West and Isles - sunshine and sodding showers, glorious dry days alternating with torrentially wet ones, preventing the multi-day trips that such inspiring yet remote venues require. Although expected from a Scottish summer, and an all too familiar bane of the syked trad explorer, this still sucks festering goat arse. Thus something is needed to alleviate the tedium of the waiting and "keeping one's hand in" game.

That Plan B is coming in the form of inspiration to push myself more physically. There are other reasons for this (I will explain later), but also taking advantage of local crags, sport crags, wet-weather crags, venues that are considerably less interesting but much more reliable. Finding some solace in the joys of movement and the thrill of intense challenge and the dark art of redpointing. For me this is all a side-line but it is an interesting and rewarding one....and one which will hopefully feedback into my trad climbing, firstly as valuable physical (and sometimes mental) training but also too keep my trad syke undersatiated and unjaded.

Time to stop being weak, I think.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4334045504692751028?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Lethargic haze at Loudon Hill.
Post by: comPiler on August 11, 2010, 01:29:00 pm
Lethargic haze at Loudon Hill. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/08/lethargic-haze-at-loudon-hill.html)
9 August 2010, 11:51 am



[insert obligatory moaning about stupid fucking showery weather here]

A very mixed day yesterday. Not mixed as in the weather (which is still mixed over the damn country overall), which was generally very nice. Hot in the sun, cool in the shade and breeze. But mixed in the climbing I did and the syke I felt. This is often the case for me with local climbing - generally it is less inspiring and the "always there" doorstep accessibility makes it harder to feel the urge to get things done unless I have a specific desire.

At Loudon I did have a couple of specific desires - see what the harder routes looked like, get Epitaph Bloody Variation done (backed off it before), and err that's it I guess. The harder routes looked green but good. I pottered around seconding for a while, then tried Epitaph Sodding Variation in the baking sun and backed off again. I still don't like it. Following this I got in a lethargic haze and lounged in the sun until I got pins and needles in my arm and realised I only wanted to do Epitaph Fucking Variation to warm up and to get it ticked. Not the best motivations. Nor indeed the best state of mind to get on something harder, but inspiration + determination >>> ticking. Also, fresh cool breeze + shade >>> hot sun. So I stood beneath Lunge, realised although I felt a bit wobbly I really had to engage with it, did so, did the route, and enjoyed both the climbing and getting to grips with a decent challenge. So that was nice. Not a particularly energetic day out though so I need to do some more training now and get fitter and stronger.

More lethargic hazing at the end of the day, being invaded by sheeps whilst waiting for other members of the party to finish the splendid Edge:

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4758278372880405382?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Lethargic haze at Loudon Hill.
Post by: comPiler on August 11, 2010, 01:29:00 pm
Lethargic haze at Loudon Hill. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/08/lethargic-haze-at-loudon-hill.html)
9 August 2010, 11:51 am



[insert obligatory moaning about stupid fucking showery weather here]

A very mixed day yesterday. Not mixed as in the weather (which is still mixed over the damn country overall), which was generally very nice. Hot in the sun, cool in the shade and breeze. But mixed in the climbing I did and the syke I felt. This is often the case for me with local climbing - generally it is less inspiring and the "always there" doorstep accessibility makes it harder to feel the urge to get things done unless I have a specific desire.

At Loudon I did have a couple of specific desires - see what the harder routes looked like, get Epitaph Bloody Variation done (backed off it before), and err that's it I guess. The harder routes looked green but good. I pottered around seconding for a while, then tried Epitaph Sodding Variation in the baking sun and backed off again. I still don't like it. Following this I got in a lethargic haze and lounged in the sun until I got pins and needles in my arm and realised I only wanted to do Epitaph Fucking Variation to warm up and to get it ticked. Not the best motivations. Nor indeed the best state of mind to get on something harder, but inspiration + determination >>> ticking. Also, fresh cool breeze + shade >>> hot sun. So I stood beneath Lunge, realised although I felt a bit wobbly I really had to engage with it, did so, did the route, and enjoyed both the climbing and getting to grips with a decent challenge. So that was nice. Not a particularly energetic day out though so I need to do some more training now and get fitter and stronger.

More lethargic hazing at the end of the day, being invaded by sheeps whilst waiting for other members of the party to finish the splendid Edge:

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4758278372880405382?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Ticking over but not ticking.
Post by: comPiler on August 16, 2010, 01:00:09 pm
Ticking over but not ticking. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/08/ticking-over-but-not-ticking.html)
16 August 2010, 9:50 am



Another week of doing a lot yet doing little. With some inspiration to get bigger and stronger, I have been training a fair bit and pottering on sport climbs a fair bit. The latter being good training in itself, both physically and more importantly psychologically, the main benefit being doing sketchy moves on lead. I haven't actually climbed anything BUT I am feeling a bit leaner and meaner, okay the latter might just be my latent misanthropy (probably reactivated by my continual bewilderment and incomprehension of the Scottish climbing scene). This is a good thing and may feed back into short term results and long term Easy Trad desires too.

One notable aspect of climbing has been GOING TO THE GYM. In particular to do CV exercise - something I've always rightly disdained, the ludicrosity of paying to trot along on a running (or cycling) machine inside when there is, well, the entirety of Planet Earth's landmass to run (or cycle) on outside, for free. However now I am....minorly disabled....there are some important benefits, for someone in my situation at least...

The other week I went to see a top vascular surgeon in London. No news is not really good news and he confirmed what the other specialists have said - leg veins are now blocked too, any blood return will have to be done via minor surrounding veins, these will develop over time but (in my estimation) this could be a very slow process - decades rather than years. BUT one useful issue was discussed, as regards to how crippled I am fitness-wise for walking uphill and running. The surgeon highlighted the importance of leg orientation for improving or inhibiting blood return, in particular the difference between vertical exercises and prone exercises (fnaaarrrr).

This apparently was a beneficial aspect of swimming that I hadn't considered, and could be applicable to other exercises. Thus I have been trying rowing and recumbent cycling at the gym. And, hurrah!! Both of these exercises I can do a lot better than running and walking uphill. At first I thought this might be because they were too easy....but then I realised I was dripping with sweat in an air conditioned room. So I must have been doing something right. Combining this sort of exercise with a bit of weights and some prior fingery climbing training seems to give a nice rounded feeling and avoids errr having too much of a nice rounded feeling ;)

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5579961029281834910?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Strong-ISH at Strathyre.
Post by: comPiler on August 22, 2010, 01:00:35 am
Strong-ISH at Strathyre. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/08/strong-ish-at-strathyre.html)
21 August 2010, 7:39 pm



Had a pleasant day out today with Phil and Mr 6a to 8a in 180 days. (http://markmcgowan01.blogspot.com/) I am currently trying to be Mr 7a to 7a in 360 days (it will make sense soon...) and today was a successful day. I warmed up the grey cells trying to navigate to the crag, warmed up the fucked legs walking the 5 steep minutes to it, and warmed up the arms on a short steep pokey 6b and thence a shorter, steeper, and pokier 6c (which defied belief how an 8m route covered in big holds could be so pumpy, but it was, so it served it's purpose). Over-warming up by dogging a 7b was cut short - quite literally - by the biggest reach to the worst hold I've encountered in a very long time. Thus it was onto the main meat of the semi-classic Electrodynamics, which in a radical break from the crag tradition was....errr....very short and very steep. But it had a cool line i.e. an arete. Gave it a blast, got involved with the steepness, found a sneaky handjam, and it was in the bag. Tried an adjacent 6c+ up a radical hanging, leaning, and perplexing micro-groove - the Quarryman of Strathyre crag - but after a series of improbable contortions all of which I was sure I was falling off, I didn't quite make it. Still it was all good training....which will hopefully pay off soon...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5289552056096120729?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: My Year.
Post by: comPiler on September 07, 2010, 11:15:04 am
My Year. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/09/my-year.html)
1 September 2010, 7:10 am



The timeline...

Before...

T -2 Weeks

22/07/09 - Onsight F6c+ at Kilnsey (burning Lord Log off), working F7b+.

23/07/09 - 40min run comfortably.

24/07/09 - Trad puntering.

25/07/09 - 1.5 hours slog up to Kinder, more trad puntering.

26/07/09 - Redpoint first F7c - Another Choadside Attraction at The Tor.

27/07/09 to 02/08/09 - Mild but persistent lower back pain. Go running a few times, but only 25 mins due to 30'c heat in Spain.

During...

03/08/09 - Struggling to walk, can only walk a few yards due to severe hip pain. Doctor initially diagnoses sciatica. Prescribed strong painkillers.

04/08/09 - Painkillers help but right leg swells up (later weight tests indicate 5kg of excess fluid) and has blood rash in evening.

05/08/09 - Revisit doctor who is concerned and sends me to hospital. Admitted to Ward O2, Royal Hallamshire.

06/08/09 - Doppler scan reveals extensive Deep Vein Thrombosis around femoral, iliac and pelvic veins.

07-27/08/09 - Remain in hospital with occasional days out allowed. Struggling to walk, on max dose of coedeine daily, regular injections, blood samples, and tests. Doctors keep trying to find the cause of DVTs.

18/08/09 - Worst point of the illness: hunched over, can hardly walk, difficulty sleeping, left thigh extremely painful, scared to walk 10 yards to hospital toilet. Break down and am given morphine. Things start to improve.

23/08/09 - Go swimming with my dad. I can swim quite well but it's very difficult walking to and from the pool.

26/08/09 - Have MRI Venogram, the last in very many tests I had.

28/08/09 - Discharged from hospital. Can walk a few minutes with difficulty.

After:

T +1 Month

31/08/09 - First day out climbing! Lead 2 F6as and HVS 5a. Tiring!

01/09/09 - MRI Venogram results reveal I have a sealed vein in my chest (congenital aplaisic IVC) which has slowed the blood flow from my legs and allowed clots to form. Will be on Warfarin for life, climbing not recommended.

07/09/09 - Go swimming with Duncan Choadstable. Swim 1km for the first time ever! Can't walk up steep road out of pool so Dunc has to collect me.

12-14/09/09 - First weekend away climbing! North Wales - Lead 3 E1 5bs and 1 E2 5b, a total of 7 5b pitches. Boulder V3. Very hard walking up hill. Have to rest a lot with legs propped up.

19-20/09/09 - Second weekend away climbing! Mid Wales (Rhinnogs, yay!)- Lead 2 E1 5bs, 2 E2 5bs, 1 E3 5c. Very hard walking up hill, but can walk on flat fine.

21/09/09 - Start moving to Glasgow. Extremely difficult due to sorting out house in Sheffield, finding accomodation in Glasgow, and lots of difficulties with partner.

T +2 Months

05/10/09 - Move to temporary accomodation in Glasgow. Things still very difficult.

??/10/09 - First local climbing in Scotland at Weem. Have to rest on the 5 min walk-in and dog up a F6a+ due to general exhaustion.

20/10/09 - Go to Ratho for the first time. Rest on F6b and feel dizzy and exhausted.

29/10/09 - Finally get settled in a wee flat in Glasgow after a generally traumatic time.

T +3 Months

07/11/09 - Lads Bouldering Weekend at Hepburn. First V5 since illness.

T +4 Months

12-13/12/09 - First weekend away to North West Scotland. Amazing place with perfect winter suntraps. Lead 3 E1s and 2 E2s. T-shirt weather in December!

18/12/09 - Getting better at Ratho. Flash 2 F6cs despite (or because of?) Arctic conditions. Do falling practice.

27/12/09 to 01/01/09 - Climbing in Spain, 5 days continuously no problem, lead several F6cs. Walking uphill still desperate.

T +5 Months

09/01/10 - First time back skiing!! Did fine, cruising reds, legs a bit tired especially on lifts, but manageable.

14-15/01/10 - More skiing, fine.

22-30/01/10 - Climbing in Tenerife, 8 days continuously, 42 routes, many F6cs, a few F6c+s, and maybe 2 F7as.

T +6 Months

03/02/10 - More skiing, fine. Getting stronger at it.

07/02/10 - Attempted hill-walking, 40 mins with rests every few mins, desperate.

13/02/10 - 2nd day out trad of the year, first E3 5c in Scotland. Epic and cold but good.

17/02/10 - After various short running/walking sessions, attempt the longest time I can run. Can only manage 10 mins, down from 40 mins before DVT.

18/02/10 - Have consultation following 2nd MRI Venogram. Confirms the IVC is sealed and unopenable, and the clots are still present in my legs, blocking my pelvic veins. Prognosis is that they will likely stay sealed with minimal blood flow and the surrounding veins will have to take up the work. Will take a long time to get back to any sort of leg fitness. Get cross.

19/02/10 - Still cross. Book skiing holiday out of a mixture of passion and rage.

20/02/10 - Still cross. Do hardest boulder problem ever - first V8 - after 5 days effort. Raaargh.

T +7 Months

06-13/03/10 - Skiing in Meribel!! Best ski-trip ever. Hard and fast every day. Legs no problem (apart from a wee walk uphill to the lift in the morning), skiied as good as I ever have, including every black run in Les Trois Vallees (only Grand Couloir is tricky).  

14/03/10 - Lads Bouldering Weekend. Flash V4 at St Bees and V5 at Bowderstone.

23/03/10 - Climbing outdoors at Ratho, first E3 6a in Scotland, hardest route since coming out of hospital.

27/03/10 - Out clubbing to Dave Clark and Jeff Mills. 5 hours dancing no problems. Techno, yay.

T +8 Months

??/04/10 - Climbing in Sicily. 21 routes in 4 days. Several F6cs.

??/04/10 - Climbing in Northumberland. First E4 6a since illness, although probably only E3 5c. Amazing moves though.

14-15/04/10 - Climbing in Glen Nevis. Get sunburnt in Highlands in April!! First E4 6a in Scotland, great route. Survive 30 mins walk-in to Wave Buttress.

21/04/10 - Local sport climbing, first F6c in Scotland.

25/04/10 - More sport climbing, two more diverse F6cs.

T +9 Months

01/05/10 - Improving at Ratho, 3 F7as onsight, including possibly the hardest I've climbed indoors.

7-9/05/10 - Another awesome weekend away in North West Scotland. 2 E2s, 2 E3s, 3 E4s, F6c/+, and another V4 flash. Feel great climbing and totally inspired.

15-16/05/10 - Finally get to grips with Aberdeen climbing, 4 E1s, 1 E2, 3 E3s including the hardest moves (6a fisting!) I've done on lead since illness.

22/05/10 - Hill walk in to Ben Ledi. 2 hours. Fairly desperate but lots of rests taken.

24/05/10 - Doing well at Cambussbarron, E3 6a and E4 6a, climbed fairly well.

T +10 Months

??/06/10 - Hardest walk yet - 1.5 hours up to Aonach Dubh (should be 45 minutes). Utterly exhausting. Attempted E4 6a, properly fell off due to terminal pump, total body exhausting.

??/06/10 - Long weekend in North West Scotland, 1 E1, 6 E2s, 1 E3, 2 E4s, some great challenges.

??/06/10 - Good couple of days at Creag Dubh, 2 E2s, 2 E3s, 1 E4. Walk-in possibly the hardest bit.

??/06/10 - Keep doing various good climbing, the highlight being an awesome E3 slab at Rosehearty that I got completely freaked on, pulled it together, and enjoyed a great climb.

T +11 Months

4-5/07/10 - Training at Rob's Reed. First 2 F6c+s in Scotland.

17/07/10 - Back to Weem again. Did the walk-in without resting, although collapsed with exhaustion on reaching the crag. Retro-flashed the F6a+ I dogged (F6b and badly bolted). Lead F6c slab, desperate and sketchy but did it.

24/07/10 - Rob's Reed, first F7a flash in Scotland.

T +12 Months

05/08/10 - Saw a vascular surgeon in London for a 3rd opinion. No change. There is nothing that can be done medically / surgically / chemically to improve my blood flow, my pelvic veins will remain sealed, and any blood flow will be taken up by the surrounding veins....very slowly. However we did discuss useful ideas for exercise...

08/08/10 - Afternoon at Loudon Hill, hadn't climbed trad in ages but managed a cool E3 6a with little problems.

09/08/10 - First gym CV training session - 20 mins on recumbent cycle machine and 20 mins rowing, got a good workout but almost no problems with legs!

21/08/10 - Sport climbing at Strathyre, second F7a flash in Scotland.

29/08/10 - Went for first run for ages. 11 mins with a few walking bits, as crap as ever!

30/08/10 - Redpointed first F8a (soft) - Sufferance at Dumbarton, culmination of many days effort.

So...

That's my year since having DVT. From my first day back climbing after getting out of hospital to my most recent day out. In that time I've led trad as good as before, flashed sport as good as before, redpointed harder than before, bouldered harder than before, and skiied as good as I ever have. I can't walk to the bloody crags but when I get there....I think I'm doing pretty well :).

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5414214710099956707?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: 6a to 8a in 365 days.
Post by: comPiler on September 07, 2010, 11:15:05 am
6a to 8a in 365 days. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/09/6a-to-8a-in-365-days.html)
3 September 2010, 7:10 am



Fucking grades, what a load of toss. The least important motivator, the least important end result, the least important social trophy. Fuck 'em.

On the other hand, the nitty gritty, the nerdish minutae of abstract discussion, comparison and analysis can be quite entertaining. If you're geeky enough - and if you aren't, why do something as obsessive as climbing??

So I did something that challenged me recently. It had a grade that roughly estimated that challenge. That grade is of interest in only 3 ways - as a marker of my improvement in the year since being hospitalised with DVT, as a virtual mooning to Duncan "Fiend you're gay, Easy Trad™‚is gay, sport climbing is where it's at, you're too weak and GAY for it" Eagles (I'll take 7c+ for it in general, but 8a for him :)), and for a geekish analysis in this post, after which it can fuck back off, as I will fuck back off to Easy Trad™.

Anyway, I don't know what grades really correspond to that at that level, but unlike most people who don't know what grades correspond to at any level (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/), I am not a bloody idiot. Thus I have a vague idea about how it fits into the distinctly ungrand scheme of things I have experience of, and that definitely shows how much things can vary when you're pushing your physical limits (unlike trad grades which are a matter of objective fact as to the existence of gear, rests, position, rock quality etc).

From what I've tried / done, in descending order of difficulty.

The Boltest, Long Tor Quarry, F7c (F8a+++) - beyond nails, 7 moves I couldn't do, 3 of which I couldn't imagine ever doing, desperate clips few shakes.

Silk Teddies, Dunkeld, F7c (F7c+?) - brutally hard start and sustained for many metres, had to aid most of it.

Sufferance, Dumbarton, F8a (F7c+?) - bouldery and crimpy but not too desperate, got all moves bar crux quickly in one session, crux next session.

Marlena, Dunkeld, F7c (hard F7c?) - almost as hard as Sufferance, very sustained and lots of finishing cruxes. Might be easier if it ever got cool conditions and a good brush.

Laughing In The Rain, Cowdale, F7c (F7c) - ridiculously hard boulder crux but pretty easy after that.

The Squealer, Lorry Park Quarry, F7c (F7c) - steady, felt closest to benchmark 7c out of the Peak stuff, bouldery but reasonable. Would have gone okay if I hadn't got DVT.

Another Choadside Attraction, Raven Tor, F7c (F7b+?) - pretty soft and would be F7b+ if it was properly bolted.

Make of that what you will.

I think the route suited me (big rockover moves on small crimps), I think it helps that it's often in good condition, I think it is likely a borderline grade. I also think it is a great and classic route with brilliant moves all the way....which is why I did it :)

As a reward for sitting through that drivel, here's a video of an early attempt, up to falling off the crux jump to a jug (I refined my lower sequence after this):

And that's that...

Thanks to Amanda, Andy, Graham, James, Jonnie B, Jonnie B (yes there are two), Liz, Mark (and thanks for the support and encouragement), Peter and Phil for climbing with me while I was working the route.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2772947635486750824?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Learnings.
Post by: comPiler on September 07, 2010, 11:15:05 am
Learnings. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/09/learnings.html)
5 September 2010, 7:10 am



Doing a hard redpoint was an interesting experience. Doing an interesting redpoint to a deadline was a hard experience - often hard to keep going, and sometimes only the pleasure of the moves kept me going. In this context I like to see what I've learnt from it...

1. I'm not climbing to a deadline ever again.

Too much stress, too much focus on the goal rather than the process. I'll happily do more redpointing though, over a more relaxed period.

2. Hard redpointing is not "true to self" for me.

Easy Trad™ IS, exploring IS. Redpointing is good fun and a good compliment but it's not a core aspect for me. I enjoy it most as "dicking around on a rope", rather than being obssessed with it.

3. The issues I find hardest on a redpoint are similar to those I find hardest on Easy Trad™.

I.e. confidence, fear of falling, stamina, fitness. I can work out moves and memorise them well, and am not too weak. But the mental and fitness sides, as with trad, are still hard for me.

4. Quality is everything.

As with any aspect of climbing, the quality of the climb has to be inspiring enough to be worth the effort. I couldn't have done it unless it was a cool climb as well as a challenge.

5. External factors are crucial as usual.

I got lucky....no I made a sensible decision. Choosing something that was cool, shadey, semi-perma-dry, at a popular crag that it's easy to find people to climb with and mix and match plans. Weather and people....often elusive, always crucial.

Nothing really new there, I guess more of a confirmation of my path in climbing and what I need to follow and deal with along it.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5613652684023573106?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Usual nice stuff up North.
Post by: comPiler on September 10, 2010, 07:00:07 pm
Usual nice stuff up North. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/09/usual-nice-stuff-up-north.html)
10 September 2010, 1:22 pm



Northern Scotland cragging is simply brilliant. Great rock, great choice, great scenery, great weath....oh no wait the weather is fucking shite most of the time. Thankfully I managed to make some use of the week's respite from the monsoon aeon, and got to explore both North East and North West.

Caithness culture:

Latheronwheel was yet another lovely Caithness crag, combining the typical qualities of funky rock, delightful cragging, easy access, and tranquil scenery. Perhaps the highlight was sitting belaying in a wave-worn cave basking in the warm sun just above the sparkling sea - it seemed almost a pity to spoil it by moving to climb. Although getting moving was pretty important....challenging redpointing being no preparation at all for Easy Trad!

Sarclet is rapidly becoming one of my favourite Scottish crags. The rock is fascinating, the architecture dramatic, and the climbing intrisically thrilling. As with a previous trip, my tickedlist grew but my ticklist outgrew it. I will be back - and also to Mid-Clyth where storm winds prevented access to the ace climbing there.

Ullapool culture:

Reiff is very popular and pretty cool, rather than pretty popular and very cool. Well, the Leaning Block area is very cool but also a very long way from the car! Ah well, needs must, it was worth the Tardis-esque stomp. Although not a patch on inland sandstone like Ardmair and Torridon, the fine choice of climbing and diverse aspects will keep me revisiting - especially as a winter suntrap.

Loch Tollaidh IS perhaps my favourite crag in Scotland. Maybe. Probably. All I know is I always enjoy climbing there and each time see more and more routes that look good. The amount of choice a mere 10 mins from the road is entirely enticing, as is the obligatory nice gneiss, and also on this trip the westerly aspect which provided essential shelter from easterly gales - "90 mph gusts on high ground will make walking almost impossible"....but a light breeze curling around the domes will make climbing just fine :)

Okay so now I'm warmed back into trad, I want to get on with it some more....if someone can just turn the shower off...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4538018467251164482?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Attack successful on Aberdeen sea-cliffs.
Post by: comPiler on September 15, 2010, 07:00:19 pm
Attack successful on Aberdeen sea-cliffs. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/09/attack-successful-on-aberdeen-sea.html)
15 September 2010, 11:30 am



Last September, I went for a weekend climbing in Aberdeen. We visited both the granite and schistose sea-cliffs, and I climbed a total of 5 HVSs with a fair amount of struggling, of which 2 I rather enjoyed.

This September, I went for a long weekend climbing in Aberdeen. We visited both the granite and schistose sea-cliffs and I climbed a total of 2 E2s, 2 E3s, and 2 E4s, with a fair amount of struggling, of which I enjoyed all of them.

Somewhat of an improvement in quality of experience, pleasure of climbing, and living up to challenges! My experiences with the diverse, accessible, and useful wet weather retreat cliffs of the Aberdeen coastline are quite variable and alternate between climbing okay and getting my arse utterly kicked with frustrating regularity. However the balance seems be tipping towards climbing okay and making the most out of the area. This time I managed to commit myself (even more crucial here than elsewhere, it seems) on the rounded and blind granite and the super-steep and confusing schistose stuff, and reaped the rewards of fun and satisfaction. I also continued my trend of methodically dismantling the Scottish coastline by pulling a breezeblock-sized block off one of the routes "...a wall of the finest pink Longhaven granite..." hmmm!! No damage done apart from a grazed hand, but I think I need to start checking the rock on easy ground, while there's some rock left!!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4804360115382383335?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Link on September 15, 2010, 11:38:19 pm
Which route did you pull the breeze block from?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 20, 2010, 06:02:01 pm
The top of Captain Pugwash, on the big ledge just below the final easy wall. After spending ages on it doing all the hard bits! Getting onto the ledge is now a Severe move instead of a VDiff one...
Title: Dermatological grating in Dumfries and Galloway.
Post by: comPiler on September 21, 2010, 01:00:45 am
Dermatological grating in Dumfries and Galloway. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/09/dermatological-grating-in-dumfries-and.html)
20 September 2010, 2:28 pm



Mixing and matching, I had a couple of wee bouldering sessions recently. Firstly back down to Garheugh Point, where the scenery is lovely, the air is fresh, the rock is aesthetic, and the problems are actually quite good. Apart from Life Is Beautiful which is a great line, a nice piece of rock, a good name, but an utterly foul problem. Truly horrible and uninspiring snatching along a painful finger-break with cramped smearing on awkward footholds. It is actually even worse than The Edge Problem at the Cromlech, which I didn't think was possible. Naturally Scottish Bouldering hails it as a classic, and in other mis-description deception, describes another 3 star classic nearby which doesn't actually exist. Bravo. Needless to say I did neither of those and instead finished off Bowfinger which is pretty cool techy/cranky stuff with thin handholds and blind footholds and a good couple of grades harder if you can't lank it from the first stand-up position:

Note that I am Climbing In A T-shirt gasp shock horror. It was bloody windy down there, I'd forgotten my beanie and forgotten I had a spare beanie in my sac, anyway my sac was rather chilly and after a bit more sloping around I left while I still had some skin intact.

So Garheugh was cold, fine grained, and trashed my skin. Conversely, the Galloway Forest's elusive Rankin Boulder was hot, sharp grained, and trashed my skin. It's actually pretty good for an esoteric boulder, but the inimical conditions prevented a true appreciation of this. I'll go back in winter to sample it's frictional properties, but in the meantime did one pretty decent easy problem:

One thing I have realised is that these videos are a bit shit really - they just show me doing some random problem somewhere. Sometimes I've taken clips of stuff that climbs pretty cool (Spanking The Monkey) or that I'm personally chuffed with  (Monkey Spanking). Very occasionally I've got something that looks kinda aesthetic. But mostly it's a punter puntering. Punto, ergo sum. Hmmm. Well, I guess one thing they do show is some hidden gems, some venues that people don't often go to, and problems people don't often do. And maybe that is of vague interest?? A picture says a thousand words, maybe a thousand consecutive pictures in one video says a few words: "Pretty cool boulder, go climb it"...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8062098894390775648?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Swift strike on superb Skye!!
Post by: comPiler on September 28, 2010, 01:00:11 pm
Swift strike on superb Skye!! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/09/swift-strike-on-superb-skye.html)
28 September 2010, 11:11 am



AT LAST!! My 3 main goals for this year were Skye, Lewis, and Caithness, and in the last round, last minute of "summer", I finally managed to get a couple of days exploring the Skye sea-cliffs, and yup I was right they are awesome and well worth visiting, as is the island itself but everyone knows that.

The forecast was glorious and sunny so on 2 out of the 3 days at Neist it was grey bleak and bitterly windy - the wind however keeping occasional light drizzle well away from the rock. The other day at Elgol was generally sheltered and toastily hot in the sun until evening. We managed a good sample of excellent routes at both areas and of course I'm even keener than before to get back and to explore more!!

Things of note:

1. Neist is the furthest West point in the whole of Scotland you can drive to without taking a ferry!

2. The climbing there is really very good, better than Elgol in fact. Big sheer lines on truly superb rock in places.

3. Supercharger (yup it's that pillar) (http://www.scotland-flavour.co.uk/pictures/neist_point_skye_scotland_1434.jpg) looks just as ace in real life and will be mandatory in warmer weather next year.

4. Seals are waaay too cute and need cuddling whether they like it or not.

5. Skye is pretty much it's own separate country. I'm surprised you don't need passports. I'm also surprised just how populated and civilised it is, albeit in micro-hamles in the arse end of nowhere. It also takes a long time to get anywhere, and I don't think it suits a quick autumn hit, but we did a pretty good job.

6. Skyewalker and Waterfront hostels are both nice.

7. Elgol is very nice and has a great view, the climbing is a bit more "Gogarth" than "Northumberland" in the harder climbs, but still very good.

8. Neist has a better view though, wall to wall Hebrides, awesome.

Errrrr that's it. Roll on the next settled weather spell, I'm syked :D

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2534678801316448142?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on September 28, 2010, 03:16:41 pm
I think you spell it skyed.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Falling Down on September 28, 2010, 09:54:06 pm
Sounds great and good effort for exploring.  Serious question though, (that you don't have to answer of course) do you have a job of sorts and if so, how do you manage to get around so much. If not, how do you fund these adventures? I'm not being facetious, I'm genuinely interested.
Title: A warning.
Post by: comPiler on October 01, 2010, 01:00:27 am
A warning. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/09/warning.html)
30 September 2010, 7:00 pm



I got warned the other day. What the warning is about is for me to determine, by writing this post.

After getting back from Skye I had a brief day at Dunkeld with the lovely Lyons and others. They were on the sport but my fingers hurt too much for that, not least because of two cut fingertips: one courtesy of a cat, one courtesy of a razor-spike-half-pad-mono-gaston-flake (ya rly) on a rather tricky route at Neist. Instead, eschewing the obvious choices, I fancied doing something bold but steady, involving myself in the intricacies of schist wall climbing without it being too hard. So that was a good start, proper inspiration was there.

I got on Ratcatcher, the easiest route on a steep wall, up a vague groove system, with a couple of spaced pegs and apparently not much other good gear. I warmed up, climbed steadily past the first low peg and some minor gear. Got established on a ledge in a shallow groove. No obvious gear. A shallow cam slot for a size I'd already used. Hmmmm. I place a skyhook on a deep quartzy incut. It stays on. So far, so not great. I have a look around. There's easier ground a bit higher, but not very easy ground to get there. The groove is a bit shallow and slopey. There's bigger holds out right, chalked but I'm not sure where they go, it's not so obvious a line. Feeling around I find a constricted pocket and fiddly a wire in blindly. Pulling up I find it's very shallow. But it stays in.

The gear feels purely psychological. To use Arno's term, I am in a No Fall situation. But that's okay because I'm not going to fall, I'm just going to move up to easier ground. But the confusion remains - up the sketchy grooves, or deviate right onto bigger holds?? There's an old skool gnarl guy below who did it earlier, hanging out with his wife and motley pair of hounds, but I feel a bit daft asking him. It's not that hard, it should be the obvious line. So I move up....briefly....very briefly as my foot skids off dusty rock....and I slump onto the skyhook and half-in wire....which takes my weight for a second before I hurriedly grab the rock. Having failed on the route I have no intention of going up and less intention of testing the gear again, even to lower off, so I manage to downclimb to the peg and lower off that.

I'm a bit shocked - "No Fall", but I just did. I'm not happy about not doing the route, I was liking the vibe of it. I'm not happy that I was in a risky situation and fell off. Obviously the gear was better than I thought and collectively safe enough. But I'm not a "safe enough" person, I'm a fucking coward and properly fussy about gear. I sometimes do bold climbing but it's carefully planned and controlled. It has to be - I don't want to hurt myself! Thus I'm worried about the risk that occured in this situation.

So what went wrong?? What did I do wrong?? What can I learn from it??

1. Biggest mistake - not asking the guy below about route finding. Why the hell not?? Sure he's a bit stern and seemingly unapproachable, but doing and enjoying the right climb is more important than social niceties. Sure it spoils the journey of discovery a wee bit, but when the situation is confusing and ambiguous and with dodgy gear, that's not as important.

2. Big attitude mistake - not being focused enough, not taking a serious climb seriously enough. I trusted that I could do the climb fine given I'm on good trad form at the moment, but I should have thought more about all the challenge it entails - including checking what routes were nearby and exactly where it might go.

3. Related mistake - underestimating the schist. It's not my speciality and it is blind and confusing. Knowing exactly which path of deceptive bulges, blind knobbles, obtuse pockets, blunt flakes and hidden edges leads to victory is rarely obvious. I should have been more aware of route-finding. Heeding the larger chalked holds and where they might lead would have helped.

4. Other factors - possibly tired after a 6 hour drive from Skye and 5 hours sleep.

So the warning, and the lesson is: Take serious climbs seriously, regardless of how well I'm climbing. Heed the rock type, stay focused on what the challenge requires, and make use of any options that deal with the situation. I guess it is a matter of awareness and adaption. I will remember that!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4844090011462068852?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Preparation, planning, and plotting.
Post by: comPiler on October 01, 2010, 07:00:12 pm
Preparation, planning, and plotting. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/10/preparation-planning-and-plotting.html)
1 October 2010, 1:03 pm



The end of the September and the end of a fairly dismal summer. The good weather in May/June was on schedule, as was the miserable monsoon in July/August. So far so tedious. But the Indian Summer in September was more like an Indian Week and bonus weekend - good for what it was, but hardly a worthy reward for sitting out the endless away-trip-preventing sunshine and showers. Once again - despite a few consistently ace trips - I am behind schedule for ticking Scotland ;).

Which leaves October, autumn, and winter.

So...

Cunning planning is needed to make the best use out of this off-season. Cunning planning to maximise climbing time AND climbing pleasure. Because this time, I'm not missing out - Scottish cragging is too ace for that.

The plan is:

Stay combat ready:

Opportunities where time and weather and partners coincide are sometimes rare and, thanks to the weather, always unpredictable. Thus one needs to be able to go whenever, last minute - having flexible plans and having everything waiting, ready, to hit the crags. Patience in the meantime (maybe for a long time) and action when opportunity arises.

What I can do is keep my shit in order. All relevant and irrelevant logistics up to date, bags packed, car fuelled, guidebooks out and one eye on the forecast. Not much different to normal really!

Knowledge is power:

Related to the above. Shorter days, colder weather, and unpredictable crag conditions all demand making the right choices to optimise climbing. The right choices means knowing the relevant information, options, and logistics for any  situation. From seepage lines to bogginess of approaches to ferry times to which hostels are open...

What I can do is revise and find all that out. Get everything detailed for all the suitable areas, so when the times come, the trips will work.

Rally the troops:

As always the two biggest challenges with climbing are not time nor transport, they are climate and companions, precipitation and people. Finding the right people who are good to climb with with AND up for exploring and taking advantage of opportunities is so important. Thankfully this time I do know quite a few more climbers in Scotland, and unlike last year's debacle where I met some people who were initially welcoming and then decided for no obvious reason to all but ignore me, many of my current partners are genuinely welcoming and friendly. Hopefully we can share a good winter cragging season!

What I can do is regularly keep in touch with people, be clear about possible plans and positive potentials, and try to be a good partner in return.

So let's set Metoffice as the homepage and get ready!!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1554184694975232696?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Return to Ratho.
Post by: comPiler on October 05, 2010, 07:00:33 pm
Return to Ratho. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/10/return-to-ratho.html)
5 October 2010, 1:01 pm



Ratho is perhaps the only indoor wall I can be bothered to write about. Ratho is the only wall where I don't begrudge having to go indoors rather than outdoors. Ratho is the only wall where I've actually gone there to train on a dry sunny day (only the once mind you!!). It is vast, the routes are very long, you get very pumped, the angles are good, and the walls are a nice plain colour rather than ghastly toddler primary colours. It is a place where I can just get on and lead routes without any rigid schedule, and know I am still training.

A year ago I went down for the first time. I struggled up F6as, had to rest on F6bs, and after each route/attempt I ended up doubled over gasping with exhaustion - not due to the altitude at the lower-offs, due to the exertion and lack of fitness. A few months later I was back up to leading F6cs okay, which felt like a fair standard of fitness. Several months after that I had an emergency training session and managed 3 F7as including the hardest indoor route I've lead. Which was nice. I did okay this summer, maybe it's all related.

Fast forward to a year after the first visit and I'm back in training - last year was just getting my climbing fitness back up....this year I'm going to get BIG AND STRONG....ish. Obviously the training is needed as after a fairly sluggish week I wasn't big and strong at the wall I was FAT AND WEAK. Not as bad as a year ago but definitely lacking in wall fitness. This is fine because to get big and strong one initially has to be less big and strong i.e. fat and weak to progress upwards. It certainly felt good to give my climbing muscles a workout, and I'm looking forward to trying hard and progressing in future sessions...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2197089276572240781?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: It's really great at Inverpollaidh Rock Gym!
Post by: comPiler on October 14, 2010, 01:00:09 pm
It's really great at Inverpollaidh Rock Gym! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/10/its-really-great-at-inverpollaidh-rock.html)
14 October 2010, 8:48 am



And the winner of the Best Designed Crag 2010 Award is....

Inverpollaidh Rock Gym

I've been wanting to go to Inverpollaidh for years, god knows how many years. I think I saw it in a magazine article and I know I was inspired by it straight away. The epitome (well, one of them) of delightful Scottish cragging. Many years later, on a particularly fine October day, I finally got there and as usual my hunches and inspirations are spot on - it does exactly what it says - I got really quite giddy when we popped around the corner and saw just how nice the setting was. The routes aren't anything radical nor outstanding, but it's all good and a great mileage crag.

This particular gem was part of a very pleasant weekend away with Phil, Mumbi, and Inverpollaidh tour guide and local strong lass Tess Fryer (much needed as the walk-in is entirely blind - but I know the secrets now ;)). In fact the weekend started early with a long overdue visit from The World Famous Helen Rogers - famous for running more businesses than the city of London, and for an unhealthy penchant for crabwise traversing. I tried to cure her of this with a Friday morning session at Dumby, but disappointingly she got on with it quite well, there weren't any tears and she nimbly outwitted most of the more heinous highballs (although did get successfully fooled into The Blue Meanie). I dropped Lady R off at Glasgow Queen Street at 1:20, and got to the far side of Ullapool at exactly 5:20. Just enough time for a bit of beach bouldering at Ardmair...

Saturday was Inverpollaidh, Sunday Phil needed to check out some sandstone, and wisely chose the infinitely superior Ardmair over Reiff. This provided a good contrast and the usual seemingly unlimited supply of strong, steep and well-featured climbing. The classic Skeletons was dry for a change, so I did that. However the previous days started to take their toll (campussing Wed, 1km swim Thu, two bouldering sessions Fri, long trad day Sat...) and we decided to leave after a few routes to go bouldering. Thus finishing the weekend with a quick session at Rhue which is more like gritstone than gritstone is - brutal rounded pebbly nonsense that I moved 200 miles to avoid having to climb!! Still good fun tho. Fish and chips and back to Glasgow in 3:40 somehow. Long may the cragging weekends continue!

The view from Ardmair. Not bad for the Highlands in October...

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Aimless although amiable amblings around Aberdeen.
Post by: comPiler on October 23, 2010, 01:00:29 am
Aimless although amiable amblings around Aberdeen. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/10/aimless-although-amiable-amblings.html)
20 October 2010, 6:30 pm



Bit late with this, I've been lazy / busy (delete the latter as applicable). Last weekend I had another weekend in Aberdeen to escape the Wet(-ish) West. The Aberdeen coast is a sometimes good and often useful climbing venue, sheltered from the regular soakings that afflict most of the mountain areas in Scotland by, errr, most of the mountain areas in Scotland. It was criminally missed out of Gary's Scottish Rock books, his "reasoning" that it's often birdy or greasy being particularly insubstantial given that the rightly much-lauded Highlands And Islands are pissing with rain 33% of the time, submerged under snow 33% of the time, and heaving with midge death squadrons 33% of the time. Not even the slightest mention of Aberdeen or the Costa Del Moray Coast as useful alternatives, instead the space being taken up with gimmick photos of Mull non-move-wonders and verbose page-filling descriptions of exact protection for mountain E7s....hmmm....

ANYWAY. I went there. It was fairly dry. It was also fairly cool, a brisk south-westerly meaning it was either cold in the sun or cold in the shade. Not really a problem for me but it made it tricky choosing the right venues overall. In the end I did a bit of bouldery trad at Long Slough (short but quite fun and interesting rock), a bit of bouldery sport at Cambus O'May (not as bad as I feared, quite inspiring for Aberdeen sport climbing), a bit more bouldery trad at Clashrodney (nice enough although not much choice left there for me) and a bit of bouldery bouldering at Boltsheugh (fun but very limited easy circuit).

As much as actually getting out on the rock, the highlights of the weekend were hanging out with some of the friendly posse around Aberdeen, both deliberately and inadvertantly, and sampling the hospitality of The Neuk and Newmachars, and also making a new best friend in the tiny rotund form of Sir Voleington Volealot Of Volesbury:

They're not very good pictures as the wee bugger was all of a frisk and fond of frolicking around in dark clefts. He was exceptionally cute tho and no slouch on the routes either, here he is on the first ascent of Vole Corner VS 4c ***

Ho hum.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Going okay at Glen Ogle.
Post by: comPiler on October 23, 2010, 01:00:30 am
Going okay at Glen Ogle. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/10/going-okay-at-glen-ogle.html)
22 October 2010, 6:49 pm



I dashed out for an evening this week. Everyone in Scotland was getting all giggly and dribbly that "winter" had arrived (removal of brain cells being one of the best weight-saving tactics for Scottish winter climbers). They're not wrong. JB called the grit and conditions were pretty ace for bouldering - crisp cold and dry. I even kept my t-shirt on, well, sort of t-shirt. The main thrust of the video below is to show off the new threads rather than show off the actual problems. I'm sure you'll agree it's a winning combination...hmmm...

Glen Ogle is like most schist bouldering and indeed some general Scottish bouldering, a bit crap really...but kinda okay too. Glen Ogle doesn't have too many of the usual detriments, access is fairly easy, walking around the boulders is tolerable, the lines are okay as are the landings, and it's not too lowball. The rock is a bit flakey and there's a lot more boulders than good boulder problems but it wasn't bad for a wee easy circuit. Just nice to play around on rock on a fresh evening. The most aesthetic problem is also the most gruesome - Pyramid Lip, a campus traverse into a haemorrhage / hemorrhoid-inducing mantle onto a slab - a brief play on this confirmed it wasn't as randomly overgraded as the other problems and will require some serious effort a later date. Worth going back for I think. Overall it was a good opening to the winter season :).

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Changing seasons, changing styles.
Post by: comPiler on October 25, 2010, 01:00:17 am
Changing seasons, changing styles. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/10/changing-seasons-changing-styles.html)
24 October 2010, 7:08 pm



The previous weekend in Aberdeen definitely heralded the arrival of autumn, and possibly winter too as the bleaker seasons tend to blur together up here in the windswept wastelands. Leave were swirling off the trees, the sun's lazy low angle made the warmth of it's light exceed the warmth of it's glow, the air felt cool in the lungs and the rock cold under the skin. I was still syked for trad as it is objectively and factually the best, most fun and most rewarding form of climbing, but I got an increasing urge to sample the friction and power of bouldering (and sport, to a lesser degree).

So although I'm keen to maximise the trad potential this winter, I'm just as keen to mix it up with bouldering as the conditions dictate. In the end I've explored a fair amount of good trad this year, and the few outstanding (in terms of unvisited status AND quality) venues won't be suitable in winter, so when it really is too grim for trad I'll turn my exploring urge to bouldering. I've very rarely travelled far to boulder, apart from Font it's just been one weekend with Ogs in Wales, and a couple of the Official Lads Bouldering meets. But you have to travel far to get the best out of Scotland and bouldering is no exception. Thus trips to Mull, Inverness, Torridon and Reiff are being planned, as well as Northumberland too. This should hopefully mean more time on the rock and more fun :). Mix and match and go with the flow.

Related to that, the other good option in winter is of course winter sun sport climbing. As always my urge is exploration, particular atypical options away from the homogenous Euro-limestone.  I'm still gathering ideas for that, but in the meantime, Sir Choadington Choadalot of Choadsbury is out in Arco with his family, and I've got some time to take a long weekend out there. Thus another change in style, back to some last minute emergency training. Recent Ratho visits confirm I'm not fit....but getting fitter. It's nice to have something to work towards, and that thing itself will be a good top-up for now too.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5810983870632926015?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: aaaAAAaaAAaArco0o0o0o0o
Post by: comPiler on November 04, 2010, 12:00:12 am
aaaAAAaaAAaArco0o0o0o0o (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/11/aaaaaaaaaaaarco0o0o0o0o.html)
2 November 2010, 9:06 pm



I'm back from a long autumn sun bolt-clipping weekend in the Italian sport climbing mecca of Arco. There were many cool things over this mini-trip... Exploring a whole new area, the gorgeous scenery around the top of Lake Garda, 3 days of warm sunshine, hooning around in my tiny Fiat Scroto hire car (dropping it down into 2nd at 70kph to overtake being quite ineffectual fun, as well as trying to slide on mountain hairpin bends), eating ace pizza and other Italian delicacies, hanging out with my old mates and their wee monkey boy (e.g. after knocking over ice cream dish in a face-pulling contest: L: "Daddy are we BOTH idiots??"... D: "Yes....yes we are.") in a tiny little cabin, endless choadly banter and a fair bit of chilling out.

Note that something is missing from that list...the climbing?? Yes, the climbing. There was some. Not as much as I would have liked, and I was rubbish at it. I did a few routes, tackled a few challenges, and most of what I did was pretty good. Most of what I failed on was pretty good too, and there was more of that than I would have liked. D wasn't on form either, and so aptly put it "punters in crime" ! There were some general issues - the consensus was the grades were stiff, some areas were fairly polished and ludicrously overchalked, with their clientele having a particular bad habit of chalking every shite undulation on the rock EXCEPT the best holds, and climbing in the warm sun didn't help. Despite this I felt I was climbing technically fine, and with a fair amount of conviction (albeit the usual fear of falling even on sport routes). But I just seemed to get very pumped and rather tired pretty quickly, and I'm not really sure why.

Even before I left I was rubbish at Ratho and at other training. It seems odd that after a reasonable summer climbing I'm *less* climbing fit than before. The only possible suggestion was that I might just need a wee break. Maybe this is right although with my fucked up body it's really hard to tell what's best for my fitness. However....I'm doing that for now and will see what happens.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2115132689794342691?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: County account...
Post by: comPiler on November 07, 2010, 06:00:12 pm
County account... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/11/county-account.html)
7 November 2010, 1:14 pm



...has been opened. For bouldering at least - I've done a few routes there before. One of my favourite self-indulgent stunts is waiting for people to ask me, an outsider, if I've ever climbed in Northumberland. "A little bit....only Back Bowden, Berryhill, Bowden, Callerhues, Corby's, Crag Lough, Curtis Crag, Drakestone, East Woodburn, Goat's Crag, Great Wanney, Jack Rock, Kyloe In, Kyloe Out, Peel Crag, Raven's Crag, Ravensheugh, Rothley, Sandy Crag, Selby's Cove, Simonside and South Yardhope" I answer with a poker face but without modesty. I still want to add Howlerhirst and Linshields to my list.

I've also done a few boulder problems there before, mostly at Kyloe In (when recovering from golfer's elbow) and Hepburn Out (when recovering - or thinking I was recovering - from DVTs). Both really rather good. Of course there is so much more than that, indeed a whole guidebook full of hugely innaccurate grades and "not to scale" maps etc etc, and to optimise winter climbing I've realised I need to explore the County a lot more. I've started with a visit to Dove Holes (the bouldering venue, not the Dove Dale caves nor the village near Buxton), despite a deluge overnight it was sunny and idyllic and indeed a bit warm for bouldering as shown in the video below, but pretty good fun. Alas I ran out of daylight / courage for the better and higher problems but I'll be back for sure.

In a generally very fine afternoon, one disappointment was my renewed punterness. This time I didn't need stamina of course, but did notice that I seemed to get tired and out of breath even on boulder problems. Partly due to the penis-grinding mantle top-outs, and probably partly due to not breathing well enough, but it is still rather odd. Particularly since I went to the gym on Thu night and had my best recumbent cycling / rowing fitness session so far. So why do I get so tired on 1 minute of strenuous bouldering?? Maybe this is the same issue as getting so tired in Arco?? Anyone got any thoughts??

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2010, 07:53:05 pm
If your CV is fine, then I suggest you are getting out of breath when bouldering, purely through not breathing? I do it quite often specifically on strenous core dependant stuff.

I recommend yoga :)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 07, 2010, 08:02:31 pm
My CV is fucked but not any more fucked than it was several months ago.

It might well be the breathing thing, I will have to monitor that...
Title: Romping about at the Restil Boulders.
Post by: comPiler on November 11, 2010, 12:00:05 pm
Romping about at the Restil Boulders. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/11/romping-about-at-restil-boulders.html)
11 November 2010, 10:02 am



I quite like the Restil Boulders. Although there are very few of them, the lines are good, the rock is a good schist, more compact and square-cut rather than contorted and flakey, the walk-in although revoltingly tussocky is suitably short and the surrounding views are pretty dramatic.

They're also good in winter as those same surrounding views transform into heavily snowcapped peaks, the sometimes boggy ground freezes into manageability, and the boulders stay fairly clean and sunny....if you're there when the sun is still on them. I wasn't so I had to make do with shade - and correspondingly good friction :) - but it was still a good, if brief session. If only there was a bit more there...

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Tools Of The Trade
Post by: comPiler on November 22, 2010, 12:00:15 am
Tools Of The Trade (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/11/tools-of-trade.html)
21 November 2010, 6:53 pm



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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Terrific Torridon, Righteous Reiff.
Post by: comPiler on November 24, 2010, 12:00:09 am
Terrific Torridon, Righteous Reiff. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/11/terrific-torridon-righteous-reiff.html)
23 November 2010, 10:08 pm



Had a fun long weekend on my own exploring bouldering in the mighty North West. Was due to meet a guy to do some routes with but he had to pull out so I just kept bouldering. Staying in a nice hostel (well, pretty crude hostel but attached to a rather swish hotel which I was allowed to lurk in....sitting in front of a roaring fire, supping in a cask strength 20yr old Jura under the stern gaze of several stag heads, pretty nice ;)), driving many miles around, enjoying great weather, beautiful scenery and the probably the best bouldering in Scotland.

Not much more to say. It's cool. I'll be back.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: On The Merits Of Being Shit.
Post by: comPiler on November 25, 2010, 06:00:03 pm
On The Merits Of Being Shit. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/11/on-merits-of-being-shit.html)
25 November 2010, 4:56 pm



At the moment, I am shit.

My fitness shit - I feel physically sluggish in general, I am a tigger without a bounce. I've slacked off on the CV training and with my leg issues I can't afford to do that.

My climbing fitness is shit - I get pumped and tired so much quicker than normal. Not just on routes, even on boulder problems, I get out of breath.

My weight is shit - I'm the heaviest I've ever been, more than a stone heavier than 3 years ago. And not all of that is pure beefy muscle :(

My strength is shit - Probably due to the weight issue, but I really can't seem to haul my lardy arse in an upwards direction. I dread to think how few pullups I can do.

My skin is shit - but that's normal heh.

My attitude is shit - I still think I can climb as well as I have during the better points of this year....deluded, I go into each session kidding myself I'm better than I currently am. I'm not adjusting to my new physical needs, I'm not dedicated enough to training in various ways.

My technique....isn't any more shit than usual - I do feel I'm moving okay on rock and in touch with what balance and footwork I usually have.

My finger strength....isn't as shit as the rest - I do feel that I can hang on smallish holds, just can't pull very far on them.

My inspiration....isn't shit - I do feel happy that I've got so inspired by bouldering over winter, AND I'm getting syked and getting ideas for next spring too. Definitely "true to self".

OH DEAR.

As Duncan Disorderly is fond of saying, "You can't have fun when you're weak". I could never really identify with that. But now, for the first time ever, I might even be weaker than Dunc. That is a dirty, sordid feeling with an unwholesome air of inherent wrongness.

Basically I have to wake up and put some fucking effort in. The good thing about being weak is you can get strong, the merits of being shit are that you can improve, progress, and learn. What I need to learn is to get into good habits of overall physical activity and training - not just climbing, but general training that will crucially benefit my health and undoubtably benefit my climbing too. IF I can learn to that, that will be very good. If I can't, I will just have to keep trying and battling with my bad habits.

I think my climbing desires are in touch with the season.

I think my climbing needs are also in touch with the season.

I now need to address those needs so I can meet those desires.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4514742322783258483?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Little bit of krushing at Loch Katrine.
Post by: comPiler on November 28, 2010, 12:00:13 am
Little bit of krushing at Loch Katrine. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/11/little-bit-of-krushing-at-loch-katrine.html)
26 November 2010, 3:24 pm



Taking advantage of the OMG-snow-end-of-the-world-winter-apocalypse-/-awesome-bouldering-conditions weather, I've had a wee visit to the Loch Katrine boulders. This is rather long overdue - not least because they are GOOD. Good lines, great scenery, superb rock. Nothing like the usual flakey bollox, but a delightfully rough and butchly clean-cut schist. The walk-in is potentially a bit tedious but I drove down the private road and waved my "On Warfarin due to bilateral DVTs" medical card and politely asked to park there to save my poor wee legs, which worked and was the first part of a very fine session. The second part was seeing the inspiring lines and scenery. Third part, chalking my hands and touching the rock and oh my god the friction. Possibly the best conditions I've ever bouldered in, I felt I could just mollusc my way up things. Not much different to my usual climbing style then ;).

The fourth and conclusive part was climbing pretty well, flashing a few good problems and effectively flashing another (note to self: read guidebook properly and aim for the true and easier line not some harder version). The only disappointment was not managing the classic butch sloper problem "Fight Club". Curiously I was wondering if I was doing so well earlier on solely because of the conditions, but FC is totally conditions dependent and still felt nails. So as usual the grades are nonsense. But the climbing is good and probably the best bouldering session I've had since spring 2009.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Really balmy at the Rankin Boulder.
Post by: comPiler on December 08, 2010, 12:00:13 am
Really balmy at the Rankin Boulder. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/12/really-balmy-at-rankin-boulder.html)
7 December 2010, 8:55 pm



I visited the Rankin boulder in early Autumn, it was too warm. I visited recently in the middle of the apparent deep freeze (deciding that 1'c and sun in Galloway might be preferable to -10'c and sun in Glen Nevis), and it was too warm.

O RLY?

YA RLY.

The Sun:

Was warm and strong and shining straight onto the rock out of a clear blue sky. Truly it was gorgeous, a perfect winter sun. However while everywhere else emphasised the winter, this location emphasised the sun. The rock basked in it all day making for an exceptionally pleasant situation but unexceptional friction. Until the sun set, which heralded a valuable drop in temperature which was chased by a less valuable drop in light levels. Alas the latter caught up with the former before I could tackle the more inspiring problem there, a curious bulging prow which starts as for the easy central groove and rapidly gains good holds and steady if slappy ground on the rib. I found despite appearances that rapid gain is also an abruptly difficult gain so I'll have to go back for it sometime.

The Rock:

Is both good and bad. The rock is good, a sizable and shapely stone with a clean aspect, generally good landings and decent lines. The rock is bad, a belligerently abrasive granite with a texture that shreds more than it grips. Thus a combination that promises a bit more than it delivers - captivating from a distance, coarser and cruder closer up. Again, conditions-dependent, for pleasure as much as power.

The Climber:

Was okay! I struggled with the warmth and the rock. Then I didn't. Then it got dark. And I got a flapper in my thumb. And my shoes full of snow from the walk-in. But I did okay, I only flashed a couple of the easiest problems (both completely randomly overgraded). The others I could have done in colder conditions. The harder one inspired me more than I initally thought. One bonus was my tweaky finger (tweaked years ago and randomly recurring because I haven't been pushing it and I haven't been crimping hard, WTFingF??) felt fine, much better than it did down the wall on previous nights. I am also continuing the strong theme of colour coordinated bouldering garb. Whether this actually works, I don't know.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: rodma on December 08, 2010, 12:29:45 pm
The random overgrades of the easy probs are entirely my fault. They felt pretty powerful to me.

There are a lot of other boulders around that area that need developed too if you can be arsed with the ridiculous walk in (only then to have someone retroclaim the lines).
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on December 10, 2010, 01:21:42 pm
Which random overgrades?? I forget as almost all Scottish bouldering grades are wrong ;)
Title: Snow down / slow down.
Post by: comPiler on December 11, 2010, 06:00:07 pm
Snow down / slow down. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/12/snow-down-slow-down.html)
11 December 2010, 12:00 pm



It's a fairly odd time at the moment. I am shit but still syked. It snowed a lot. Then everything was covered in snow and ice apart from the things that weren't and were too warm. Now it's all melted and everything is damp including Ratho which has streams pouring out of the old comp wall. I've been taking things steady down the wall through necessity, same with the bouldering too - certainly not pushing hard and crimping like a demon. So my 2003-tweaked finger has come back and retweaked HOW THE CHOADING HELL. I'm getting syked for training and going to the gym too. This has had the noticable benefit of me feeling at least as unfit and tired on routes if not more so. It's not making any sense.

One thing that is making sense is that I've got a mini trip booked to Costa Blanca between Xmas and New Year. Look, I've got email confirmation from Easyjet. So that's real. My climbing out there could be surreal, unreal, or just plain fictious. God only knows. It's what I'm training for anyway. A shining beacon of merely possible failure, gleaming through the dank fog of certain failure.

Other than that I want to make some more exciting plans abroad (thinking of Malta and Morocco at the end of Jan), keep bouldering and pull my finger out and push myself as much as errr that finger allows, get out tradding too, keep exploring, keep fit, get some vestige of stamina back. Not much to ask when it's all inspiring despite the lack of sense ;).

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2611336096110529028?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: shark on December 12, 2010, 10:47:37 pm
I could see things weren't right at Arco. Seems like you have been struggling since. I'm genuinely concerned. Can you go and have a check-up or medical or something  :please:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on December 14, 2010, 10:08:58 am
Hey mr Shark, thanks for the concern. I have been a bit below par for a while - but not THAT much below par. Enough to whine about but not enough to be a serious concern, I think.

Partly I'm still struggling since I haven't been doing much fitness / wall training until recently (I've mostly been out bouldering a lot). I think with my body how it is, I need to keep up with pretty regular training as I degenerate into unfitness more easily these days.

This includes my weight - I'm now 12-12.5 stone compared to 10.5-11 stone in 2006/7. That's due to various factors including some weight gain around the clot area, being less able to do CV exercise to burn it off, being less able to have big days out in the hills, and the heinous temptations of the Glasgow diet.

Thus I have more lardy arse to haul up routes (and Duncan Disorderly trying to give me a complex about it doesn't help that much!!....anyway has he even done F7c yet?!) and need to do a lot more work to keep that weight off and the fitness ON.

The good news being that I have started training much more recently, including wall bouldering, wall routing, and regular gym sessions (typically 25 mins recument cycling / 20 mins rowing / 30 mins weights-strength training). I'm accepting that I am a bit shit and just keeping at it. I'm also trying to watch what I eat more...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: shark on December 14, 2010, 11:36:07 am
With you getting pumped so alarmingly quickly - given the amount of climbing you do - I wondered whether there is a connection with the blood circulation problem that gave rise to DVT.

Your body might be trying to tell you something or it might be lying but prudent to check it out - no? 
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: a dense loner on December 14, 2010, 01:16:27 pm
my heart bleeds for u fiend

u overtraining at the gym/fitness side of things?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: slackline on December 14, 2010, 01:22:32 pm
my heart bleeds for u fiend

u overtraining at the gym/fitness side of things?

He suffered from bilateral Deep Vein Thrombosis last year (clots in legs, hospitalisation, anti-coagulants etc.).  See threads here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=12420.0) and here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12580.0.html) (there is a third one I think but can't find it at present).
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on December 14, 2010, 11:48:09 pm
Dense my arse bleeds for you. Bring more lube next time.

Shark, the blood circulation problem is a sealed vein in my chest - sealed since birth - I doubt that is causing any more problems. It never really affected my upper body anyway. I personally think my body is trying to tell me "I'm a bit b0rked and susceptible to unfitness now so you can't be complacement and slob around and expect to get away with it". HOWEVER I do appreciate what you're saying and I'm keeping a close errr eye on things and if I feel significantly odder I will get it checked out.
Title: Gym'll Fix It.
Post by: comPiler on December 21, 2010, 12:00:16 am
Gym'll Fix It. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/12/gymll-fix-it.html)
20 December 2010, 1:58 pm



Sorry. Very sorry. I can't be trusted with a blog. Nor the internet. Nor a keyboard.

Anyway. Training, again. I have got some syke back for it. Which might be why my body has politely requested a rest day.

Thu - Gym

Fri - Ratho routes

Sat - (rest)

Sun - Ratho bouldering

Mon - Gym

Tue - Ratho routes

Wed - Gym

Thu - (rest)

Fri - Gym

Sat - Fat Buddha bouldering

Sun - Transition routes

Not bad. The gym is featuring heavily, it is reasonably convenient, I can do it on my own, I can do fitness training I can't do outside, it balances out the climbing, it doesn't aggravate my finger, and unusually I am actually vaguely motivated for it - this last factor being a radical break from tradition. I tend to do 25 mins recumbent cycling, either 20 mins rowing or 10 mins rowing and 2x7 mins arm cycling, and 30 mins mixed weights. This seems to be a relatively un-tedious combo, at least when backed up with an adequate supply of DnB mp3 mixes. What effect it is having on my weight, health, and climbing fitness, I don't really know, but I feel good doing it - so it probably is good. I'm going to keep going this week, mix in some outdoor bouldering, and probably be forced to have 3 rest days over Xmas, BLEH.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2878982630204135799?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: F@©king Friction!!
Post by: comPiler on December 23, 2010, 12:00:05 am
F@©king Friction!! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/12/fking-friction.html)
22 December 2010, 10:42 pm



The video below is based on a true story, well indeed it IS a true story.

I've always known how important conditions, friction, dry skin, chalk, etc etc are, but seldom have I experienced it with such shocking clarity. I was genuinely bemused and boggled how much of an effect it can have, even after all these years as a sweaty bugger.

This boulder problem is one I tried last time I was at the boulder, with a distinct crux making a steep crossover from a LH angled sloper/seam to a RH juggy pinch. This was shutting me down before but I was feeling pretty close to it when the evening had cooled down. This time I started off feeling very un-close to it, unless one defines close as "hugely distant with no chance of doing the bloody move". A source of much consternation given I'd planned to use the so-called -8'c to wrap this one up and move on elsewhere. But instead I had to wait and wait and wait and bank my hopes on it feeling easier once the evening cool returned.

Those hopes not so much came true as thundered down upon me and the boulder in a cataclysmic strike of cold air, truth, justice and bouldering righteousness. I don't think I'd fully grasped just how crucial the feel of the left hand-hold was until I went from woefully floundering at the move to being able to cruise it comfortably most goes, and thence did the problem first proper attempt. I swear as the sun set the problem must have dropped 3 grades in 15 minutes, for me it was from impossible to easy. And also "kinda okay" to "rather enjoyable".

Conditions and friction: dry hands + less sweat + less chalk needed + firmer skin on the rock texture + firmer rubber on the rock surface = a huge difference. It's SCIENTIFIC FACT, bitches.

P.S. Now I've got bloody gayflu and might not have anything to say before Spain.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8158429447295234631?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: rodma on December 23, 2010, 08:50:39 am
Quality work Fiendypops.

I think you ought to suggest some proper grades (font grades please ;) ) for optimal conditions for all of the probs.

I cleaned/climbed the lines in April and May when it was about 15degrees and did feel like I had to really crush the hold before the lip on retroclaim (hence the grade). I'll probably never go back to be honest. Did you get on bohemian rhapsody, I almost pood my pants on it.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on December 23, 2010, 10:48:57 am
Okay how about:

1. Boulderdash ss Font6b - this is pretty gruesome
2. Cowboy Country Font6b+ - this is hard on the first slap
3. Crouching Kitten Font6b
4. Retroclaim Font7a - I think this is right as I'm pretty weak on steep stuff at the mo
5. Project (hardish - maybe font7c/8a)
6. Project (V Hard)
7. Bohemian Rhapsody ss Font 7b
8. Broke Back Mountin Font 6b (the sitstart is a project - maybe font7a) - if you pull on with the highest holds this is easy, not sure what the correct start is tho.
9. Carpet Samples ss Font 6a+ (around the corner from number 8) - definitely easier than the front face problems.

Just small tweaks really. Bohemian is too hard for me, looks like a real tip-shredder too. Good line though, as are the projects.

Well done for finding and cleaning it, it's a good winter venue!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: rodma on December 23, 2010, 01:10:34 pm
Okay how about:

1. Boulderdash ss Font6b - this is pretty gruesome
2. Cowboy Country Font6b+ - this is hard on the first slap
3. Crouching Kitten Font6b
4. Retroclaim Font7a - I think this is right as I'm pretty weak on steep stuff at the mo
5. Project (hardish - maybe font7c/8a)
6. Project (V Hard)
7. Bohemian Rhapsody ss Font 7b
8. Broke Back Mountin Font 6b (the sitstart is a project - maybe font7a) - if you pull on with the highest holds this is easy, not sure what the correct start is tho.
9. Carpet Samples ss Font 6a+ (around the corner from number 8) - definitely easier than the front face problems.

Just small tweaks really. Bohemian is too hard for me, looks like a real tip-shredder too. Good line though, as are the projects.

Well done for finding and cleaning it, it's a good winter venue!

I pretty much concur.

My fault for messing up the grade on broke back, since I can't reach very high up to start with and I found it difficult to turn-the-lip.

Just checked the topo on my blog and it shows the start holds that I used for all of the face problems.

Bohemian Rhapsody was a funny one. I had intended it being an eliminate (hence the name), since I was on my own and thought that if I got too gripped I could just bail and grab the left arete. It turned out that I couldn't reach the arete, until I had already grabbed the very top of the boulder. It felt proper scary. I reckon the grade would be the same even if you could reach the left arete earlier on.

It really is a shame that the main front face isn't overhanging for another metre or two. It'd be fantastic.
Title: Critical analysis.
Post by: comPiler on January 05, 2011, 12:00:05 am
Critical analysis. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/critical-analysis.html)
3 January 2011, 6:46 pm



4 days...

...in the Costa Blanca. Gosh I do like going away on climbing trips. After a few weeks of training and a very sedate week recovering from gayflu and christmassing, touching down in Spain in a sunnily warm yet expansively fresh evening felt almost like....coming home. Despite the familiar homogenity of the climbing and the lack of any particular loyality for the area, the prospect of a few days guaranteed intense climbing with a wide choice of crags had a sense of inherent rightness. I sometimes forget that while the Costa Blanca has a very "Rockfax-clutching Brits abroad" mundanity to it, it is also very good - including the scenery, the splendour of which transcends the mercifully out-of-season hellholes of Benidorm which it overlooks.

This time I got to explore 4 new crags and do some pretty good climbing in good company. I found that I failed to achieve my hopes but exceeded my expectations.

On the plus side I overcame my gayflu pretty quickly, indeed the first day climbing in the sun I could feel it fading away throughout the day. My finger held up fine, and I felt physically good after a few weeks training. My head wasn't bad either. And I did a few cool and challenging routes.

On the minus side, I failed on a few routes including some that were really inspiring, and I might benefit from pondering more over those. I know what I did right (training, pacing, rest, enthusiasm, route choice), but what could I have done better?

Route 25 F7a, Murla

What went wrong? Foot slipped off boulder problem start.

What could I have done? Not clipped the bolt so I could boulder it out, re-warmed up better, fought harder.

How can I improve that? Accept that a bouldery route really IS bouldery, and prepare better for unduly hard moves.

Ozzie F7a, Echo Valley

What went wrong? Didn't trust tiny polished pinch and slumped onto rope.

What could I have done? Given the move a try anyway as I was by the bolt, slapped my hand to remove chalk and sweat.

How can I improve that? Focus on trying anyway even if I'm sure I won't succeed, as there is nothing to lose.

Muca Muca F7a, Pego

What went wrong? I was midway through doing the crux move and just sagged off due to lack of precision as I was surprised I was actually doing it.

What could I have done? Realised I was climbing quite well and actually stayed focused.

How can I improve that? Have a wee think about how I am climbing at a particular time and adjust my expectations and focus accordingly.

Teto F7a(F7a+/b), Pego

What went wrong? Tried crux but couldn't get comfortable to clip and slumped on rope. Tried crux after and still too hard above.

What could I have done? Not much as I couldn't have flashed the whole crux, but I could have felt around more on the hold.

How can I improve that? Try to get into habit of remembering I can push myself further, and keep feeling around and trying moves.

Sesion De Noche F6c, Barranc L'Avern

What went wrong? Missed a hidden jug and slumped onto rope.

What could I have done? Felt around more, trusted I would have enough strength to keep going, tried move without jug.

How can I improve that? Try to get into habit of remembering I can push myself further especially if a rest is coming up, and keep feeling around and trying moves.

Mitja Via F6c+(F7a), Barranc L'Avern

What went wrong? Fell off one move from easy ground due to utter exhaustion.

What could I have done? Very little, I had pushed very hard through several on/off moves. It was close tho.

How can I improve that? Try to eek out a bit more mental focus, and probably keep breathing as well as chalking/shaking out.

In general: The two main things I can work on improving are realising how well I am climbing and staying focused on climbing well at that level, and trying improbable moves when I feel mentally comfortable doing so. So from this trip I can take the pleasure of what I did, and the potential of what I can do in future...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-6118439617674733738?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on January 05, 2011, 09:55:38 am
How about a positive look at it and analyse the route you succeeded on? Just a thought.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 05, 2011, 10:51:45 am
I know, that is something I am aware of. But there's a clue in:

Quote
I know what I did right (training, pacing, rest, enthusiasm, route choice),

I could have written more about what I did right but I'm quite familiar with what went right on this trip, whilst the things that didn't go so right are something a bit different to work on.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: slackline on January 05, 2011, 10:58:23 am
I could have written more about what I did right but I'm quite familiar with what went right on this trip...

You're readers aren't though, and they may find that as useful, if not more than what didn't go right.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 05, 2011, 12:29:12 pm
Readers...? Oh, errmmm, hadn't really accounted for that.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: slackline on January 05, 2011, 12:38:50 pm
Views of this thread are one indication (although not reliable, I myself view, but don't read all threads in the Blog Pile).

Another might be a web-page counter (http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=web+page+counters) or more sophisticated apply Google Analytics (http://www.google.com/analytics/) to your site (if your curious about such things).
Title: Critical Analysis.
Post by: comPiler on January 06, 2011, 06:00:06 pm
Critical Analysis. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/critical-analysis.html)
3 January 2011, 6:46 pm



4 days...

...in the Costa Blanca. Gosh I do like going away on climbing trips. After a few weeks of training and a very sedate week recovering from gayflu and christmassing, touching down in Spain in a sunnily warm yet expansively fresh evening felt almost like....coming home. Despite the familiar homogenity of the climbing and the lack of any particular loyality for the area, the prospect of a few days guaranteed intense climbing with a wide choice of crags had a sense of inherent rightness. I sometimes forget that while the Costa Blanca has a very "Rockfax-clutching Brits abroad" mundanity to it, it is also very good - including the scenery, the splendour of which transcends the mercifully out-of-season hellholes of Benidorm which it overlooks.

This time I got to explore 4 new crags and do some pretty good climbing in good company. I found that I failed to achieve my hopes but exceeded my expectations.

On the plus side I overcame my gayflu pretty quickly, indeed the first day climbing in the sun I could feel it fading away throughout the day. My finger held up fine, and I felt physically good after a few weeks training. My head wasn't bad either. And I did a few cool and challenging routes.

On the minus side, I failed on a few routes including some that were really inspiring, and I might benefit from pondering more over those. I know what I did right (training, pacing, rest, enthusiasm, route choice), but what could I have done better?

Route 25 F7a, Murla

What went wrong? Foot slipped off boulder problem start.

What could I have done? Not clipped the bolt so I could boulder it out, re-warmed up better, fought harder.

How can I improve that? Accept that a bouldery route really IS bouldery, and prepare better for unduly hard moves.

Ozzie F7a, Echo Valley

What went wrong? Didn't trust tiny polished pinch and slumped onto rope.

What could I have done? Given the move a try anyway as I was by the bolt, slapped my hand to remove chalk and sweat.

How can I improve that? Focus on trying anyway even if I'm sure I won't succeed, as there is nothing to lose.

Muca Muca F7a, Pego

What went wrong? I was midway through doing the crux move and just sagged off due to lack of precision as I was surprised I was actually doing it.

What could I have done? Realised I was climbing quite well and actually stayed focused.

How can I improve that? Have a wee think about how I am climbing at a particular time and adjust my expectations and focus accordingly.

Teto F7a(F7a+/b), Pego

What went wrong? Tried crux but couldn't get comfortable to clip and slumped on rope. Tried crux after and still too hard above.

What could I have done? Not much as I couldn't have flashed the whole crux, but I could have felt around more on the hold.

How can I improve that? Try to get into habit of remembering I can push myself further, and keep feeling around and trying moves.

Sesion De Noche F6c, Barranc L'Avern

What went wrong? Missed a hidden jug and slumped onto rope.

What could I have done? Felt around more, trusted I would have enough strength to keep going, tried move without jug.

How can I improve that? Try to get into habit of remembering I can push myself further especially if a rest is coming up, and keep feeling around and trying moves.

Mitja Via F6c+(F7a), Barranc L'Avern

What went wrong? Fell off one move from easy ground due to utter exhaustion.

What could I have done? Very little, I had pushed very hard through several on/off moves. It was close tho.

How can I improve that? Try to eek out a bit more mental focus, and probably keep breathing as well as chalking/shaking out.

In general: The two main things I can work on improving are realising how well I am climbing and staying focused on climbing well at that level, and trying improbable moves when I feel mentally comfortable doing so. So from this trip I can take the pleasure of what I did, and the potential of what I can do in future...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-6118439617674733738?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Critical Addendum
Post by: comPiler on January 06, 2011, 06:00:06 pm
Critical Addendum (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/critical-addendum.html)
6 January 2011, 12:36 pm



Apparently a few people actually read this blog, because I've had a couple of comments that my last post was unduly focused on negative aspects of my climbing trip. This is neither the intention nor the case, as it was focused on how I can improve, and on that trip there were a couple of things to learn from slightly unusual mistakes. Nevertheless I take the point that it is equally wise to learn from what one did right (I'm sure I've posted as much in the past), so here's some things I did right:


There you go :)

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1979588381581738720?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: 2011.0
Post by: comPiler on January 06, 2011, 06:00:06 pm
2011.0 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/20110.html)
6 January 2011, 12:50 pm



2010 felt like returning to some sort of normality - adjusting to life after DVTs, getting back into climbing after that time out, and settling into Scotland after a rough and rocky move to Glasgow. I'm still quite a way from the sort of normality I want to live in, including in climbing exploration, travelling, fitness, pro-activity, action, and social life. I'm intending 2011 to be a year of building determinedly on last year's foundations, and revelling in the pleasure and personal happiness that will bring.

So far I have completely failed to start doing that and have mostly been behaving in the opposite way to how I'd like to and what brings me pleasure. I'm hoping setting out some intentions will encourage me to have more focus...

Climbingwise my intentions are as follows:

1. Keep in touch with friends and partners better and organise myself more proactively.

2. Get to somewhere interesting over Easter (Pedriza? Alscace?), and over summer (Scandinavia? South Africa? Hatun Machay?).

3. Week long trip to Lewis, several days sea-cliffing in Skye, long weekend in Caithness, long weekend in Mull over winter/spring.

4. Get to Merionydd & Lleyn when weather is bolleaux in Scotland.

5. Keep exploring cool places in Scotland.

6. Explore more bouldering over winter: Torridon, Reiff, Skye, Mull, Inverness, Aberdeen, Trossachs, Northumberland, Carrock Fell, Gouther, St Bees.

7. Climb a few E5s.

8. Climb a few F7a+s.

9. Keep fit at gym, pool, and wall.

10. Lose 1 stone via the above.


I'll write more about some of these in following updates.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-7194493409904144847?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: For fuck's sake, not again.
Post by: comPiler on January 13, 2011, 06:00:07 pm
For fuck's sake, not again. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/for-fucks-sake-not-again.html)
12 January 2011, 5:45 pm



2nd one in the space of a year (albeit the previous one was much older).

Beastly strong or just a good wanking hand?? Hmmmm.

Credit to Decathlon, they replaced it despite my lack of receipt. Back to my standard warm-ups then.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5347268221114370376?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Malteser 1.
Post by: comPiler on January 13, 2011, 06:00:08 pm
Malteser 1. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/malteser-1.html)
13 January 2011, 5:47 pm



Maltesers in Malta, the obvious combination. This will be a trip diary thing. It doesn't need explaining does it...

On the 5:30 am train to Manchester Airport. I've just snagged a strap on my rudebwoy jeans and torn a huge slit down the side. I might have to buy new jeans at the airport and I bet they only have normal ones BLEEUURGGHH. Also there is no wifi on this train which is bloody barbaric. On the plus side a DNBTV live DJ Trace mix is sounding pretty good through my Sennheiser headphones I liberated from British Airways decades ago when they still gave out good headphones (and when people still travelled by non-budget airlines ;)).

Later....borrowed a stapler at airport and fixed jeans - potential normal-jeans-wearing catastrophe averted. Good flight full - but not very full - of old people and obese people and sometimes both at once. Revised the guidebook thoroughly and feel asleep listening to an old skool hard trance mix from M-Zone.

Now in Malta. The weather is pleasant and warm. The island is reassuringly small. No-one indicates when driving and last minute lane changes are de rigeur. The guy I'm climbing with seems nice. He is Canadian, I am quite used to the accent from SC2 sessions with VULTURE and DRAKE. The hostel is pleasant enough and has wifi. The local beer is foul. It looks like dilute piss and tastes like it's been brewed with dishwater.

I am syked for climbing.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2809706032505346848?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Malteser 2.
Post by: comPiler on January 15, 2011, 12:00:23 am
Malteser 2. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/malteser-2.html)
14 January 2011, 6:18 pm



Today, we climbed. We went to Wieb Badu (sp!) which is a well reputed area. It was cool in the shade and warm in the sun. The giant India shaped fallen block was a cool feature. The crag itself was not as good as it looked from the long distance topo-shots, which turned had turned vaguely rambling slabs into sheer faces. Slightly dusty pockety rock made for odd gear but reasonable climbing. The sport routes were better fun, and some of the easier routes looked good too, but easy climbing is a waste of precious grade chasing time so I didn't bother ;). The sunnier side was shorter, steeper, oranger, juggier, more properly trad, and slightly more fun, and made for a good evening finale. It was warm enough for me to break out the stockings/shorts combo early ;).

5 routes, 2 sport and 3 trad, mostly cool. I was going to write about them but I can't be arsed....suffice to say it was a good warm up day.

We met some very cute kitties on the way back, I tried to steal one but they were too shy.

Malta feels pretty exotic compared to other places I've visited - lots of flat roofs, lots of chaotic buildings, lots of archaic churchs and monuments. It's cool.

The roads are still mental. It's lucky the island is small as the road markings and signposts make Spanish roads look informative.

The Maltese are friendly and do good English. They don't do lane discipline and don't seem to do supermarkets either, but the local shops are nice enough.

The local shandy is considerably better than the local beer.

Mmmm dinner was good. I am full of sausage. Sleep soon...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4720565306848107148?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: Malteser 2.
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 15, 2011, 12:05:39 am
Malteser 2. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/malteser-2.html)
14 January 2011, 6:18 pm
 I am full of sausage. Sleep soon...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4720565306848107148?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

I may take the piss, but I do like your blog Fiendy Boy
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Nibile on January 15, 2011, 02:06:48 pm
Malta's traffic is indeed mental. I was there ages ago with my parents and we had our first car accident five minutes out of the airport.
for new year's eve my friend and I went to a disco and he kissed a 6 foot tall brunette for the entire night. I was jealous until I found out he was a transexual.
welcome to Malta.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 15, 2011, 08:12:35 pm
Thanks lagers  :-*

Nibile, yeah, no surprises, I'm liking the random cross lane swerves in particular. The car hire was dirt cheap and came with a 650 Euro excess - now that all makes sense.

The chicas are cute here....
Title: Malteser 3.
Post by: comPiler on January 16, 2011, 12:00:06 am
Malteser 3. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/malteser-3.html)
15 January 2011, 6:45 pm



Today, we climbed some more. Ghar Lapsia (sp!). It was good. Better than yesterday. Sunnier, windier, better views, more dramatic routes - mostly short but action packed. The rock was more familiar Euro-lime, but also with a crimpy slab thrown in. OMG. Girls love crimpy slabs and so do I. As I've found out (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=429830&v=1), Scotland doesn't really specialise in accessible slabs. Neither does Malta but it does have a few highly reputed areas, and while today's slabby section wasn't highly reputed, it provided plenty of stimulation on a delectable pitch with one bit of good gear half way up the initial 18m section... The steeper stuff was equally fun, with some sport, thready pseudo-sport, and good trad. All in all a fine day, with 6 more varied routes.

I saw two shedded snake skins, but no snakes. Also two oil rigs, but still no sense to the local driving.

I'm on the local soft drink, Kinnie. Waaay nicer than the beer. It tastes like 40% coke, 40% root beer, 20% angastora bitters. Unlike 100% stale ass-sweat.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5286787755951993521?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Malteser 4.
Post by: comPiler on January 17, 2011, 12:00:05 am
Malteser 4. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/malteser-4.html)
16 January 2011, 6:56 pm



Today, we climbed. AND, we did culture. But not too much culture, and only after a plentiful day swinging around on pocketed overhangs. First up was the escarpment of Victoria Lines (I'm pretty sure I've spelt this one right ;)), an ancient Hadrians-esque fortified ridge. Like Wieb Badu it is an undulating pockety white limestone, but somehow more fun despite it's relatively diminutive size. Route scale was gritstone-like, but skin-friendly knobbly pockets up wee bulging faces provided a jolly good jape. We were hosting an English lass for the day so mixed and matched and a good time was had by all. Although I finished on a slightly bum note, failing on a roofy prow thing due to an obdurately ill-fitting nut and subsequent terminal pump, and then bashed my thumbnail on the ground during the ensuing micro-tantrum. Ah well, another 3 good routes.

After dropping said lass off at the airport and using the impending flight departure as an excuse to further my Malta driving apprenticeship (which is coming on rather well except for my persistence in actually indicating), we headed to the fortified cathedral town on Mdida. This is indeed quite splendid, the creamy sandstone walls reflecting a delightful evening sun through the maze of narrow streets, and the ostentatious extravagance of the cathedral contrasting ironically with the relatively low-key status of the rest of the island. After all God expects nothing but the finest decor in his name... Here are a couple of photos I liked:

Finally we finished with a touristy but pleasant meal adjacent to Mdida, and I ticked the first of my 3 Malta food ticks - beef olives (the others being rabbit stew and ricotta & pea filled pastry nibbles). This however was no ordinary beef olive, it was colossal sauce-drenched LOG of a beef olive that would have Baldrick ineptly scribbling odes to it's girth. I am still burping up the taste.

And today, in honour of having a 3rd person to take photos, I broke out my £1.99 sports vest from Decathlon, as part of trying to get clothes that I don't overheat in but still stand out in photos. I'm sure you'll agree it's a winning combination with the tights...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1056368799530546569?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Malteser 5.
Post by: comPiler on January 17, 2011, 06:00:03 pm
Malteser 5. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/malteser-5.html)
17 January 2011, 5:23 pm



Today we climbed slabs. Lots of slabs. Very slabby proper slabs. 30m with good gear at 15m and then a 15m runout full of 1/3 first joint razor rugosity slabs. Yup, those sort of slabs, well to start anyway. The warm up for the 15/15 runout route was an 18/12 runout route, with a crucial wire slot that crucial 3m higher. I placed a wire in this slot and tried to back it up with another one. I peered into the slot. A beady and belligerent eye peered back at me. Gulp. For some reason I panicked thinking it might be a giant spider, despite being a beady slit eye not a beady compound eye. This got me moving fast on the runout, but abseiling back down confirmed it was a firmly entrenched lizard. Hurrah. We also saw a turtle in the sea which was totally super-awesome and did not interfere with any gear placements.

Later we moved on to the slightly more conventional HT Gully slabs, which were even better. Shorter but more gear and a steeper, holdier angle. Truly a gem for girls who like crimpy slabs, and me. We basked, padded, and rocked over until our feet were aching. I attempted to round out the evening with a funky and bizarre roof climb, to give my feet a rest. It was all going swimmingly until cranking on a spikey jug round the final roof, when my heelhook slipped. "No problem", I thought, "I'll just swing free on the jug, chalk up, blow my fingers, and place heel better". Alas this cunning plan depended on the jug staying attached. It didn't, and neither did I. Was this punishment from the Slab Gods for attempting such a heretical angle of climb on The Day Of Slabbiness?? Or a reward from the Beef Olive Gods for completing last night's feast and increasing my mass even more??

Anyway, 5 great slab routes. Woohoo.

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Title: Malteser 6.
Post by: comPiler on January 19, 2011, 12:00:05 am
Malteser 6. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/malteser-6.html)
18 January 2011, 6:22 pm



Today we climbed jugs and pockets and overhangs. The day started well when we were gentle eased from our slumber by the peaceful lullaby of A PNEUMATIC FUCKING DRILL RIGHT OUTSIDE THE HOSTEL. I lay there dozing to this for some time - I think I've listened too many industrial noise CDs. The sluggish start was compounded by the after effects of the 2nd Maltese food tick last night - Pastizzis, oily and semi-tasty gunk filled pastries. I suspect one has one or two as a snack or starter, rather than 5 of them as dinner along with a big wodge of pizza. So it took a while to roll my lardy arse out of the scratchy bedsheets this morning. Eventually some momentum was gained towards Fomm Ir Rih, and we started at the Lush Boulder which was as steep as yesterday was slabby...

What's wrong with this photo?? Oh yeah, the prospect of placing trad gear at this angle.

A couple of routes on here took a fair amount of time and energy, leaving only enough time to do one route on the headland sea-cliffs. This brought the full sea-cliff flavour of abbing into a semi-hanging stance above an impenetrably navy ocean, and a fully British flavour of committing face climbing to get out, albeit on distinctly foreign knobbly pockety coralline limestone. It felt like a lonely but lovely lead, bringing the day's total to a small but intense 3 good routes.

Since I wasn't allow to buy this tiny concrete shed, I consoled myself by stealing some spring onions from the fields. Off to cook them now...

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Title: Malteser 7.
Post by: comPiler on January 20, 2011, 12:00:14 am
Malteser 7. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/malteser-7.html)
19 January 2011, 7:23 pm



Today we climbed white pocketed walls. We went over to Gozo and a crag called something vaguely like Mraargh Ix Xiari, Malta's deservedly premier sport crag. There seemed to be a lot of classic F6b+ white pocketed walls, so I just climbed classic F6b+ white pocketed walls. It made route choice pretty simple. Oh such routes....there was the one with the pockets....and the other one with the pockets....and the white one, that had a lot of pockets too. All jolly good fun and by far the most holes I've fingered in a day. We had grand plans to stay in Gozo and save travelling back and forth, but driving back and forth past the elusive hostel several times eventually revealed it was closed, so back on the ferry it was, and back in our regular basecamp at 7:30. Not bad at all. I think we will go back and explore a bit more of this subsidiary island. After all there's a couple more classic F6b+ white pocketed walls further down the valley...

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Title: Malteser 8.
Post by: comPiler on January 20, 2011, 06:00:04 pm
Malteser 8. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/malteser-8.html)
20 January 2011, 4:59 pm



Today we climbed slabs AND white pocketed walls. OMG the sheer insolence of it all. Two contrasting rocktypes in one brief winter day (well, afternoon - see below)?? Truly a cutting edge plan.

The day started as the previous day had, as we were guided on our tranquil journey towards awakeness by the soothing encouragement of A FUCKING CAR ALARM RIGHT OUTSIDE THE SODDING HOSTEL. Nevertheless a prompt start was underway, which became rapidly less prompt when we came out to a flat tyre. "No problem", I thought, "I'm a big strong MAN and will simply change this tyre for the spare and drive to a garage to fix the main tyre". Unfortunately this plan depended on the spare tyre not being flat too....2 minutes later we were sat by the side of the road awaiting Europcar tyre rescue... Eventually we got to the SLAB at Ix Xaqqa (I think I got this one right), where the sheets of smooth rock contrasted nicely with the rabbit-carcass-filled gully the route started from. A few routes were rattled off including the pointlessly retrobolted, overgraded, but jolly pleasant Motorpsycho. I sneered at the bolts, fiddled in some RPs, and it was still soft touch.

Spurning the bolts in true artificial risk elitist snobbery style ;)

Having ticked all worth ticking we rounded the evening off with a couple of funky white pocketed trad routes at some crag with lots of GHs, Is, and possibly Xs in the name. 4 good routes and good variety.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Malteser 9.
Post by: comPiler on January 22, 2011, 12:00:12 am
Malteser 9. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/malteser-9.html)
21 January 2011, 6:20 pm



Today we climbed errr slabs and white pockety walls. Again. But this time on Gozo! Which is nice. A bit more scenic and a bit less manic than Malta. We got to see more of the island in an action-packed day. Got the ferry over, drove across to see the "Inland Sea" (more like Inland Puddle, but pretty) and the Azure Window...

...then found a cool roadside slab and did a couple of routes...

...then had a wandering circumnavigation of the scenic Citadel in Victoria, then drove back to M-thingy I-thingy X-thingy to finish with a couple of cool sport climbs and retrieving some misplaced trousers. Not the wrong trousers, more like the right trousers in the wrong place. Thence back on the ferry and back to the hostel by 7. Good stuff. 4 more good routes woohoo.

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Title: Malteser 10.
Post by: comPiler on January 22, 2011, 06:00:03 pm
Malteser 10. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/malteser-10.html)
22 January 2011, 4:30 pm



Today....we....climbed!! The last day: In a pleasingly circular crag choice we finished as we started, at Wieb Badu (I think it might be Wied Babu actually?). But instead of the somewhat average valley slabs, we sampled hot pumping sea-cliff action in the altogether more dramatic surrounds of the Blue Wall (grey coloured) and Red Wall (orange coloured). The former provided a fine committing trad climb in the calm shade, and the latter a fine long sport climb in the breezy sun...

...and a rather "traditional" big old corner as an escape route. The routes I led were class, but belaying on an expansive ledge in a cosy nook in the warm sun was perhaps the highlight. We rounded off the day and indeed the entire climbing week at the sunny side of W.B. where I pleasingly punctuated the trip not with a full stop but an exclamation mark, battling up a fine bulging crack we had "looked" at on the first day. 3 contrasting routes and a great finale.

All that remains is a quick dinner, the last bit of mad Maltese driving (regrettably, I'll miss it) to the airport, and braving the possible crux of flying home with Ryanair. Ciao!

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Title: Maltesed
Post by: comPiler on January 26, 2011, 12:00:19 am
Maltesed (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/01/maltesed.html)
23 January 2011, 3:02 pm



So I am back. It was a great trip. Greatness of note including:

9 days climbing in a row. I think that's the most in a row I've done, not hampered by pissy weather or gaylord gf climbing partners "waaah I need a rest day can we do something different for a change?!?" etc etc. I was still as SYKED as ever on the last day, still just loving the climbing. It was important that we kept mixing it up: steep routes, slabs, sport, trad, adventurous routes, rough rock, smooth rock. This kept it FRESH and FUNKY and kept motivation and inspiration high whilst alternating limbs and skin to allow things to heal. Scratches aside I felt invigorated rather than tired by the end of it. I'd be quite interested to base myself in a similarly dry and varied climbing area and see how many....WEEKS I could climb in a row :D.

Did I mention the weather?? OMFG. I'd forgotten what such dryness was like. The forecast kept predicting 20% chance of rain (itself not a huge worry with sunny quick drying crags), which invariably turned into 20% of light cloud of 80% chance of awesomeness. There was a grand total of 1 light shower and one thunderstorm, both overnight. Some good luck at last.

I think I did okay climbing. I kept a fair level of challenge although didn't push that hard, with only a handful of routes that made me go "woah, that was tough". By the end I was keen to ramp up the grade a bit, but there was still too much to explore. I guess I was actually doing pretty well as it was a trip during the "off-season" for trad....but I also think the rock often suited me well, with a good choice of reassuringly positive holds and pretty good gear when you got it (apart from the slabs, which just felt nice in general regardless). It's all good mileage anyway.

Malta was cool for the reasons mentioned before: exotic and intriguing yet fairly convenient and cheap, cool architecture and churches, nice coastlines, a manageable size, and entertainingly lawless driving - the latter I survived more by fitting well into it rather than taking suitable care ;).

Climbing-wise I'd definitely recommend it for a typical British climber. If you want to sit at the bottom of a mega-classic mega-chalked mega-polished 7c rotpunkt for a whole week, or want some epic dolomotic suffer-fests, then forget it. But if you want plentiful mid-grade trad, mixed and sport limestone with a good varied blend of steep accessible outcrops, proper slabs, and proper UK-style sea-cliff face climbing, all with a decent guidebook on a fun island with very good winter temperatures, then it's got to be worth a try.

Next up: Plans for April, plans for the year, Scottish bouldering, sun-trap trad, gym and general climbing training. Woohoo!

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Title: 2011.1
Post by: comPiler on February 02, 2011, 12:00:11 am
2011.1 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/02/20111.html)
1 February 2011, 9:00 am



General climbing related issues to work on and improve.

As always the main challenges with climbing - not just my climbing, almost anyone's climbing - apart from the utterly crucial personal psychology are WEATHER and PEOPLE (I still aspire to join the ranks of those very fortunate people who have a good local scene of similarly-syked partners...). For me there is the additional challenge of FITNESS which has been an uphill battle since DVTs preventing some simple exercises. Weather is both uncontrollable and malicious (ah, if only it was just one of those!), so can only be worked around with knowledge, readiness and flexibility. The others can be worked on directly...

1. Keep in touch with friends and partners better and organise myself more proactively. - needs: reply promptly to partners in whatever media and don't put off emails, always reply even when unavailable, accept invites if I'm free just for the social side (if suitable), try plans with regular partners I already know before asking on UKC, try to be a good partner myself, make plans in advance with the option to change them rather then leaving them until the last minute.

9. Keep fit at gym, pool, and wall. - needs: get in routine of exercise, make it logistically convenient to fit into life, use workouts that are beneficial but easy to be motivated for, try to do gym work that compliments wall work and pool work and vice versa, go with current inclinations rather than worrying about specifics (better to go and do a sub-optimal workout than not go at all), stretch regularly after showers, download more ruff and rude drum and bass MP3 mixes...

10. Lose 1 stone via the above. - needs: watch diet - eat smaller portions, be aware of and avoid overeating, avoid fatty convenience food, maximise enjoyment of healthier foods, drink lots of water, make exercise and healthy eating part of routine.

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Title: 2011.2
Post by: comPiler on February 04, 2011, 12:00:06 am
2011.2 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/02/20112.html)
3 February 2011, 9:00 am



Exploration plans, ideas and inspirations to work on.

I've seen him live at the Cold Meat Industry festival years ago. Pretty cool stuff, although better as bedtime listening music.

Last year I did pretty well with exploring cool places, although was hampered by the Scottish weather, some disorganisation, and a shocking amount of faff that prevented a summer trip. This year I want to get MORE ORGANISED. I have a better idea of when I can go places, a better network of climbing partners, and a pleasingly decreasing list of Scottish venues. Thus...

2. Get to somewhere interesting over Easter (Pedriza? Alscace?), and over summer (Scandinavia? South Africa? Hatun Machay?). - needs: plan in advance, find similarly motivated partners, investigate areas fully (including travel, accomodation, car hire, guidebooks, weather options etc), book soon to make firm committments and keep costs down.

3. Week long trip to Lewis, several days sea-cliffing in Skye, long weekend in Caithness, long weekend in Mull over winter/spring. - needs: plan trips firmly but flexibly with similarly motivated partners, make such plans a priority over lesser plans, have all the relevant information to keep the costs low.

4. Get to Merionydd & Lleyn when weather is bolleaux in Scotland. - needs: keep in touch with suitable climbing partners near those areas, keep checking the weather there, make such plans a priority over "normal" Scottish areas.

5. Keep exploring cool places in Scotland. - needs: keep in touch with similarly motivated partners, make positive plans, take advantage of any weather windows, have good plan Bs.

6. Explore more bouldering over winter: Torridon, Reiff, Skye, Mull, Inverness, Aberdeen, Trossachs, Northumberland, Carrock Fell, Gouther, St Bees. - needs: early starts not to waste petrol, sensible planning with training and skin conditions, knowledge of where to stay for multi-day trips.

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Title: 2011.3
Post by: comPiler on February 05, 2011, 12:00:07 pm
2011.3 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/02/20113.html)
5 February 2011, 9:00 am



7. Climb a few E5s.

Some inspiring and challenging trad routes to aim for, and what I might need to do / improve / be prepared for.

It is worth noting that having had a good look at almost all of these, I am SYKED ;) Inspiration >>> challenge >>>> grade.

Nijinski, Auchinstarry - needs: very cool dry conditions, practise with friction/slab/arete climbing.

Purrblind Doomster, Cambusbarron - needs: dry breezy weather, practise finger jamming, speed and precision with gear, falling practise.

Anger Management, Cambusbarron - needs: dry breezy weather, bouldering power for start, fitness, good gear planning.

On The Beach, Polldubh - needs: morning shade, good route reading, fitness for first crack, mental stamina.

Freddie Across The Mersey, Polldubh - needs: similar to above.

Triode, Polldubh - needs: cool breezy day, even better route reading, practise on slabs and bad holds.

Colder Than A Hooker's Heart, Creag Dubh - needs: good technique, schist-familiarity, deadhanging / crimping strength, fitness.

The Final Solution, Creag Dubh - needs: overall fitness and stamina, deadhanging / crimping strength, rapid gear finding.

Smith's Arete, Ballater - needs: cool fresh conditions, bouldering / arete practise, short term power endurance, flexibility, quick gear placing.

Neart Nan Gaidheal, Ardmair - needs: fitness and stamina, quick and careful gear placing, falling practise.

Spirit Air, Loch Maree Crag - needs: lots of fitness and stamina, route reading, crimp strength, mental stamina, good weather.

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Title: Real winter sun at Red Wall seacliffs.
Post by: comPiler on February 07, 2011, 12:00:45 am
Real winter sun at Red Wall seacliffs. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/02/real-winter-sun-at-red-wall-seacliffs.html)
6 February 2011, 8:16 pm



This weekend I visited the third in the triptych of welcoming Aberdonian climbing couples I know. This was all rather pleasant: bRad, Amelia, Atlas (above) and Dido hosted me graciously and we went out climbing. Well, the people, not the cats. Although the cats could have done a better job than I did on Sunday. But first, Saturday. Winter sun, good East Coast weather (escaping the deluge in the West), and bird-free pink granite. These are other good reasons to visit Aberdeen climbing, and why I intend to do more of it this winter season. On Saturday we visited Red Wall, and lo it is RED and a WALL. It also doesn't have any shortcuts to the base of the crag apart from abseiling, certainly not wandering through the intriguing sport climbing quarry, and wondering how appealing a swim would be if we attempted the green bulging sea-traverse to the base. Eventually we established base camp - via abseil - and rattled off a few routes. Despite the short day, false start approach, late arrival of myself from Edinburger, and climbing as a team of 3, we still managed 4 good routes albeit with the second and third following the last route in something between dusk and pitch dark. I didn't tackle anything major - I have a general syke to do so but am cautious of the conditions and Aberdonian sea-cliffs in general - but did a couple of fun routes.

Sunday initially promised sun. Then mist. Then torrential rain. Then sun again. Eventually it settled on one of the few things that wasn't forecast - light cloud and cool grey temps. We had a look at the dramatic and photogenic Round Tower but alas despite no rain and little seepage, it was damper than a squid's snatch. The infamous coastal clag in full effect. Without sun and breeze and indeed any margin for error at this time of year, options were limited to sensible retreat, but it was a good recce for the future. Thusly we ended up at Transition wall, where I transitioned into someone giving a vague impression of climbing competence, to an inept bumbling blob of punterdom. I was fat and weak in ways which are hard to describe and impossible for mere mortals to comprehend. Anything which required a modicum of arm strength rather than crimping or compression left me beaten, battered, and belligerent. Oh and my skin was utter rubbish too. All rather perturbing, but it turned out to be a good workout, I suppose. God knows I need one!

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Title: 2011.4
Post by: comPiler on February 07, 2011, 12:00:05 pm
2011.4 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/02/20114.html)
7 February 2011, 9:00 am



8. Climb a few F7a+s.

Some inspiring and challenging sport routes to aim for, and what I might need to do / improve / be prepared for.

I expect some of these will be particularly challenging given the stamina, fitness, and strength required, and in particular the luck required with onsighting harder sport. Nevertheless the choice and general quality of these routes gives me plenty to go at, and if I feel fit enough then they will be worth a try.

General requirements: Falling practise, stamina, falling practise, fitness, falling practise, route reading on varied rock, falling practise, falling practise.

Persistence Of Vision, Dumby - needs: very cold and dry conditions, someone to give it a brush first, finger strength, basalt technique, falling practise.

High Pitched Weem, Weem - needs: finger / crimp / deadhanging strength, fitness and stamina, 30 degree training, climbing speed.

Screaming Weem, Weem - needs: as above.

Grand Theft Auto, Rob's Reed - needs: fitness and stamina, good conditions, training on bad holds.

Sun City, Cambus O May - needs: dry breezy weather, crimp strength, fitness and stamina, dynamism, careful footwork training.

Sticks And Stones, Cambus O May - needs: as above.

Paralysis By Analysis, The Camel - needs: route reading, stamina, route reading, stamina, more stamina, decent conditions, climbing speed.

Mactallah, Goat Crag - needs: cool weather, stamina, strength, route reading.

Yosemite Wall, Malham - needs: cool weather, stamina, strength, footwork on polished holds.

Appetite, Malham - needs: as above.

Plus lots of supporting F7as at Chapel Head Scar etc etc.

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Title: 2011.Summary
Post by: comPiler on February 09, 2011, 12:00:04 pm
2011.Summary (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/02/2011summary.html)
9 February 2011, 9:00 am



Thusly I determine the main things I need to work on and DO are:



1. Keep in touch with climbing partners regularly, promptly, and positively.

2. Prioritise plans for the most inspiring areas with like-minded partners.

3. Plan more proactively but flexibly in advance rather and last minute.

4. Get started on days out earlier to make best use of time.

5. Keep fitness training and make it a regular habit.

6. Keep eating a decent diet with small portions, less junk, more water.

7. Train stamina, finger strength, finger power, dynamism and endurance at walls.

8. Falling practise, falling practise, falling practise, falling practise.

9. Work on route reading and gear placing outdoors.

10. Stack odds in my favour with suitable weather conditions.



If I don't, keep reminding me and beat it into me until I habitually live like this to make my climbing lifestyle more pleasurable and personally rewarding!!

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Title: Bumbling at Bowden.
Post by: comPiler on February 11, 2011, 12:00:15 am
Bumbling at Bowden. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/02/bumbling-at-bowden.html)
10 February 2011, 9:10 pm



Made a last minute plan to visit The County on a free day with a decent forecast. Decent as in sun, cool temps, light breeze - but also after a previous day's rain, so some caution was needed. I first checked out the exposed and sunny Goat Crag, which I've only done one easy route at. It was pretty dry and the plethora of considerably less easy routes looked rather inspiring, but I felt a bit underprepared for the diverse sandstone battles. So off it was to the definitive classic and fairly honeypot Bowden Doors, where I again recced some harder inspirations, and eventually met a dude for some routes. However it was feeling a bit nervy on some sandyish top-outs, so we retreated to an easy bouldering circuit, which was fun....and also turned out to be a bit nervy on the shallow bog solo of Child's Play F6b S1!

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Title: Soggy syke.
Post by: comPiler on February 17, 2011, 06:00:07 pm
Soggy syke. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/02/soggy-syke.html)
17 February 2011, 3:26 pm



Syke ebbs and flows. Mine is flowing (?) at the moment. I am syked to get out on the rock and CLIMB. Bouldering, trad, sport, circuits, projects, mileage, new areas, testpieces, whatever. I just feel the love and desire for the pleasure of touching, pulling, and moving over rock.

Naturally this is coinciding with a period of prolonged dampness. I don't think anything has been reliably dry for nearly two weeks now. At this time of year - as with any time of year in the UK - this is "normal". Blech. Also at this time of year there is a little leeway - a small drizzle shower can ruin a whole day, whilst in summer things might dry out. Or might not. Suffice to say I can't put my syke to good use at the moment.

No doubt the weather will turn crisp or sunny or fresh and breezy and then I'll somehow be syked to paint toy soldiers and listen to death metal instead. But just in case I can put my syke to delayed-good use. I've been doing a little bit of training at Ratho, a crude mixture of routes, falling practise, steep ground, bouldering circuits and beastmakering. Not very focused, but my current relevant weaknesses are not very specific - mostly fitness (trainable at gym etc) and lock off / pulling power (trainable at wall but less relevant to outside desires). Keeping reasonably climbing fit and ticking over will do.

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Title: Techy.
Post by: comPiler on February 21, 2011, 12:00:10 am
Techy. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/02/techy.html)
20 February 2011, 8:01 am



Given the season - the cold-weather-short-days-winter-sun-crisp-friction-bouldering-strength-season when its at it's rare best - I find myself fancying techy gritstone-esque routes. Short, technical, thought-provoking, bold, bouldery. The sort of routes where you boulder around for an hour, emerge steaming from your duvet jacket cocoon, place two bits of gear, stand around getting a bit nervous, and execute some delicate funky moves just before your hands go numb. The sort of routes that gritstone does perfectly, but are rarities in Scotland. Rarities, but not entirely absent. It just takes some cunning and planning to find them. This is a current list (with good mid-grade options) I'm pondering on:

Lowland Outcrops (E.g. most places of little consequence) - The standard easily-jaded Local Climbing blah but with some interesting places scattered around.

Trossachs/Arrochar (E.g. Glen Croe, Loch Sloy, Glen Ogle, Glen Lednock) - Often a bit on the steep side but some good slabs and shorter routes that are suitable.

Glen Nevis (E.g. Roadside, Blacks, Wave etc) - Living in the shadow of errr Ben Nevis this is very weather specific, but some of the more accessible crags have the right style of climbing.

Mull (E.g. Scoor, Erraid) - Still not been alas, but the photos of short granite and schist outcrops definitely look right.

Gairloch (E.g. Mungrisdale, Gruinard Crags, Stone Valley, Loch Tollaidh, Diabeg) - Some of the best crags are a bit northerly facing, but there's a wide choice that fit the bill.

Reiff (E.g. Ardmair, Stone Pig, Pinnacle, Seal Song) - Despite the rock quality Reiff is not THAT good as it's so well featured that most harder routes tend to be thugfests rather than techfests.

Aberdeen North (E.g. Ballater, Red Wall, Round Tower etc) - Pretty good as can be pretty technically intense and good in cooler weather.

Aberdeen South (E.g. Long Slough, Harbour Wall, Floors Craig etc) - Generally a bit too steep and strenuous (i.e. very), but some potential.

Northumberland (E.g. Everywhere) - what more needs to be said? Gritstone with more holds and less hordes.

P.S. It's still wet and shit out there, BTW.

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Title: Recent stuff.
Post by: comPiler on March 03, 2011, 06:00:07 pm
Recent stuff. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/03/recent-stuff.html)
3 March 2011, 3:00 pm



Bleh, forgot to blog. The weather has been merciful recently so I've done some climbing. Yay for climbing. Bouldering at Clashfarquar and Loch Sloy, trad at Cummingston. Here's some stuff...

P.S. Blogspot seems to keep randomly changing font faces and/or sizes on my blog. Can you please post if it's doing the same for you, ta. Or if you know a fix! double ta!

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Rather beautiful at the Ruthven Boulder.
Post by: comPiler on March 07, 2011, 06:00:06 pm
Rather beautiful at the Ruthven Boulder. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/03/rather-beautiful-at-ruthven-boulder.html)
7 March 2011, 3:10 pm



Approaching Ruthven...

Another weekend, another damp-in-the-west-dry-in-the-east forecast, another visit to Aberdeen with some bouldering en route. After last summer's somewhat painful (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/06/backlog-blog.html) attempt, I returned to the Ruthven Boulder in much nicer conditions, and discovered that yes indeed the skin-murdering texture is about the only flaw with this monolithic beast of bouldering goodness. Another chap was passing through and we teamed up for a good syke-filled session...

With my skin just on the tolerable side of critically abraded, I embarked on the long slog across the A96 to Aberdeen, via collecting a well earned and long overdue bottle of Singleton from Dufftown, a favourite smooth and sweet single malt with a distictive dried fruit palate and a spicey finish. Thence followed the usual good hospitality of various Aberdeen friends, a day of trad at Red Wall, an eye-rollingly frustrating replacement of two wrecked tyres from a completely hidden chicane, and an afternoon of bouldering at Portlethen as it was too breezy for coastal trad. A pretty good weekend and while my skin is ready for a rest, my mind is vaguely keen to ramp things up a bit on the trad action...

P.S. Blogspot is still screwing up the fonts for me, but since no-one has said anything, I guess it's fine for other people, which is okay.

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Title: Risk Quotient at Ratho Quarry.
Post by: comPiler on March 09, 2011, 12:00:15 am
Risk Quotient at Ratho Quarry. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/03/risk-quotient-at-ratho-quarry.html)
8 March 2011, 3:38 pm



Turned out to be higher than I expected... A fresh morning, a strong breeze, rain in the west but dry in the East, a keen partner passing through, a few hours to rattle off a couple of routes. The right ingredients for a sensible plan....but there are some factors outside the realm of planning, or even sense.

I started up a cool little arete route. Steady climbing with a bit of gear to a ledge at 9m, some more gear there, then 6m of classic arete laybacking to easy ground. Good for cool conditions, good to start on as there was a rest ledge to recoup.

So I tickled up the lower wall, and grappled the ledge. It was reassuring, a nice crack down the back for hands and protection. Cool. I yarded up and started to mantle. The ledge - a double pillow-size sheet of rock - started to peel away from the wall.

THE FUCKING LEDGE IS PEELING AWAY FROM THE WALL...!

I somehow dropped down without agitating it further, it somehow teetered back onto it's resting posture. I have no idea how....but I do know if it and me had come off, it would have badly injured me and could have fatally injured my belayer (who was in the standard pose, with helmet). GULP.

I outwitted the ledge mantle, stood on it (which was fine, pressing down), put some RPs in a seam, tip-toed up the upper arete, finished the route, abbed down, did a nice sport route, and left just as it started to rain. A good morning. I think. ???

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Title: Rainy day stuff.
Post by: comPiler on March 17, 2011, 12:00:09 am
Rainy day stuff. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/03/rainy-day-stuff.html)
11 March 2011, 2:14 pm



Yup after a not-too-brief respite, the rain is back. Hopefully it will be bringing some snow onto the mountains to extend to the somewhat tapering out ski season - I've only had one slushy day at Glen Coe this year - but in the meantime it is shutting down the continuation of the recent good climbing I have been enjoying.

So I have retreated to my plethoric collection of geeky indoor activities. Actually I should be retreating to more GYM, more CAMPUSSING and more LEADING/FALLING PRACTICE. But I'm kinda having a week off that because I'm being fucking lazy. Instead in recent times I have been indulging myself with:

Models:

Have had a wee urge to paint recently and completed a couple of figures....old figures. Have a few more in progress but am generally very lazy about painting so these will do for now:

(Not to relative scale - click for more normal size!)

Music:

Although I'm back on the DRUMS and the BASS at the moment, I had a splurge on some metal recently which was very pleasing to my ears....but less pleasing to those of my friend Wendy who came out with the awesome quote:

"YUCK!!! i had to turn that off after 30 seconds, thats SHITE!! LMAO thats what u listen to? have you not killed enough brain cells?"
Yes it is what I listen to. Yes I genuinely REALLY like it. Yes I feel the same way as your quote about pop music. So the following CDs have been recent favourites...

Behemoth - The Apostasy & Zos Kia Cultus

Burzum - Belus

Gorefest - La Muerte

Immortal - All Shall Fall

Kataklysm - Prevail

Games:

I've finally got around to using my new (in October 2010) computer to it's full potential. As well as the usual Starcraft 2 (very good, very refinded indeed) shenanigans with my buddies VULTURE and DRAKE, I've got back into quality FPSes...

Bioshock - Excellent, a very distinctive and intruiging take on the FPS genre. Strong atmosphere, rich background, some emotional involvement and many interesting combat options.

Crysis - Superb, great graphics and great gameplay, the latter was refreshing after COD4. The nanosuit gives you many options and makes you feel in charge of your own gameplay destiny.

Call Of Duty 4 - (aka Modern Warfare) Pretty good but obviously overrated as a typical "crowd pleaser". Great looks and atmosphere and some strong scenes, but average gameplay, twitchy story, and too much war/weapon pr0n.

Next up will be: Thief 3, Far Cry 2, then maybe Crysis Warhead, Bioshock 2, and I might end up buying Singularity, COD5, Bulletstorm, Dead Space 2.....hmmm actually maybe the weather will improve and I will sack it all off ;)

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Title: Clash crush.
Post by: comPiler on March 22, 2011, 12:00:08 pm
Clash crush. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/03/clash-crush.html)
20 March 2011, 5:47 pm



Just had a rather fun long weekend sampling the diversity that Scotland in late winter has to offer: Great day skiing on full snow cover at Glenshee, good afternoon bouldering in very fresh conditions at Clashfarquar, and a fun afternoon doing trad at Limekilns. Clash was the main point of interest for me, I was very specifically focused on trying to climb Clash Arete, possibly the best line in the best setting in the whole of Aberdeen. And thus:

I'd been completely shut down on this before when Lyons, bRad and I were trying it. It looks....kinda feasible as there are a lot of holds and stuff and they mostly point in the right direction. But it is steep, with minimal footholds and sharp handholds - pain resistance becomes as important as power reserves. This is the hardest problem I've done in a year and I wanted to do it right....

The boulder platform is very convenient, but the approach is tidal. I decided it would be best to be trapped outside than inside, so got there early afternoon at high tide, knowing I would have all afternoon once I could get across. Lo and behold there was a group of climbers who had indeed got trapped inside. So we sat and waited on opposite sides of the tidal bay, in a stalemate, waiting for someone to crack and start wading. Eventually the platform was accessible, they slid out, I slid in, and started a nice peaceful session.

I'm pleased with my tactics for this. I warmed up with a grip strengthener and didn't waste any skin on other problems. I started playing on the moves knowing they would feel desperate and knowing that I would gradually unlock them with patience. I kept playing around in short attempts and resting my skin in between. As soon as I worked out a move, I moved onto the next one to keep the whole puzzle going. And as soon as I worked out all the moves - with a possibly unconventional sequence - I got up, walked away, and strolled around the platform to let my mind and body settle.

On my return, I floundered on the started a few times, then managed to udge my way up, slapped, ignored how much sketchier the moves felt in the sequence than in isolation, hung on tight, and crushed it, happy with a cool problem and happy with some good tactics.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Sandy Syke.
Post by: comPiler on March 28, 2011, 07:00:07 pm
Sandy Syke. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/03/sandy-syke.html)
28 March 2011, 3:24 pm



I was down in Northumberland this weekend to maintain my unblemished attendance record at the Official Lads Bouldering Weekends, in this case number 4. Slightly bleak Bowden, painful Kyloe, the cheap and cheerful Bluebell Bunkhouse, and cool Callerhues. As often the case with these events, I rarely do that much serious bouldering unless I go off on my own and play around a bit. I find the large team logistics gets in the way of actually focusing on climbing, and for me to push my bouldering I usually need a fair bit of focus and plenty of peace. However the large team logistics (lots of pads and encouragement) does have it's benefits for highballs, and Sunday was fun taking advantage of that at Callerhues (I missed out on one good highball at Bowden which was a pity).

Apart from the social side and relentless banter, what was most rewarding about this weekend was checking out a few more trad lines and the entire trad crag at Callerhues. I'd been there before years ago but hadn't really grasped much other than Callerhues Crack was nice and soft and most other things were desperate. This has been well and worthily corrected in the Rockfax guide with plenty of routes going up by two full grades into the realistic realms of actual accuracy. Combining this improved information with a diligent look at potential possibilities has exponentially expanded my ticklist which is now:

Weeping Fingers E2 5c *** - classic flake line, looks fine.

Tossing A Wobbler E3 5c * - cool looking rugosities with a wee runout.

Twin Hats E3 5c * - looks cool but also tricky.

Ned Kelly E3 5c ** - looks cool but also powerful.

Rice Krispies E4 5c * - nice looking wall, loads of gear, might be worth it's old E3 grade.

Toshiba Receiver E4 5c ** - also nice looking, bolder but still gear potential.

Green Fluff E4 6b * - solo and very funky looking.

Micro E3 5c - no stars but still looks nice, decent pro.

The Lurcher E3 5c * - maybe solo and a nice feature.

Hyena E2 5c * - looks a nice wall thing.

Hmmm might need more than just one visit there ;)

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Title: Transition.
Post by: comPiler on March 31, 2011, 01:00:29 am
Transition. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/03/transition.html)
30 March 2011, 8:45 pm



With the disappearance of that sneaky little hour, the season is gradually and inexorably dragging itself from winter towards spring, somewhat lubricated on it's difficult journey by adequate amounts of water falling from the sky. To escape this I am off abroad for a week, and upon my return I suspect there will feel like a distinct transition from winter clag to spring soakings.

Thus a transition in my climbing, plans, desires, inspiration and instinct. I felt this last weekend at Bowden and Callerhues. Despite conditions still feeling adequate for bouldering, there was something in the air that catalysed my urges towards TRAD. Obviously urges that remain unsatisfied on a Lads' Bouldering Weekend, but ones that will no doubt remain for forthcoming months. This is expected, and suitable, despite the usual anticipated battle with the weather - the latter of course will dictate where to begin, but counting in the County as well as all the Scottish options, there should be much to look forward to.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: La Pedriza 1.
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2011, 01:00:09 am
La Pedriza 1. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/la-pedriza-1.html)
1 April 2011, 5:00 pm



So I am away in Spain again. A long overdue trip to Pedriza, the well reputed home of terrifying granite sport climbing. It was a toss-up between this and Annot, the increasingly reputed home of sandstone....stuff. Being able to actually buy a Pedriza guidebook (a novel concept that the Annot book writers should perhaps consider) was the deciding factor. So Pedriza it was, but the associated faffing and procrastination has forced a somewhat lengthy journey. Glasgow (wet) > Prestwick (boring) > Alicante (relaxed flight dozing next to two perfectly sulky teenage girls) > 5 hour drive to La Candreda (LONG, but actually went fairly smooth and beta-flashed bypassing Madrid).

Of course since it was dry and sunny and daylight, it would have been particularly ungracious to not stop off for climbing en-route. To ensure a reasonable arrival out our campsite cabin, I picked a nice bulging pockety limestone crag 5 mins down the motorway. A quick stroll in, and so much for a reward for our dedication, almost all the crag, including by far the best bits, was seriously flooded by risen lake levels. The flat grassy base was now 2m of water, so we had to dick around on a poxy upper tier before establishing bungalow basecamp and some much needed crashing out for the night.

Climbing: A few short steep easy routes at by far the worst crag I've climbed at in Europe. Still it loosened the muscles after a long journey.

Wildlife: A small turtle, a giant fish, and a cute, daft, giddy Rottweiler puppy with big paws.

And: A bottle of 7.3% beer on an empty stomach after a full day's travelling washed away all the stresses. And any sort of coherence.

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Title: La Pedriza 2.
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2011, 01:00:10 am
La Pedriza 2. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/la-pedriza-2.html)
2 April 2011, 5:00 pm



Today it all began: The granite....the slabs....the bolts....the friction....the holds.

The holds??

HOLDS??

There weren't any fucking holds.

The day started somewhat tiresomely with circuitous driving around the local town Manzaneres El Real in search of parking, food, parking, access to La Pedriza national park, parking, and more parking. It seems most of Madrid comes here at the weekend, and you can see why - truly spectacular amounts of undulating, slabby, bulging and layered granite, interspersed by limitless boulders. However the popularity  ensures vehicular access is a faff, and even once parked, the deceptive scope ensures ambulatory access is somewhat tiresome if your legs don't work. However the scale of the rock with it's uniform texture is also deceptive, and we reached an appealing slab in reasonable order. A wise choice it seems, due to the "easy" grades and in this case plethoric bolting.

Hmmm yes the grades. There were rumours that the climbing was desperate for the grade, that is one correct way of putting it, another equally correct way is that the grades are complete shite. Either Costa Blanca / El Chorro / Costa Daurada / Siurana / Ceuse / Buoux etc etc are wrong....or Pedriza is. It's not rocket science, everything is simply undergraded by at least one, usually two grades. Oh wait, "It's friction slab climbing, you just aren't used to it yet". Bag of COCKS. I've done enough slabs and friction slabs to know. You don't get San Melas or Chalkstorm given E1 5a do you?? Exactly.

Anyway it's blank, it's desperate, it's tenuous....but it's really rather cool. A whole day of pure and proper slabs. There is a lot more where that came from, in fact rather too much, so we will be seeking the all important variety, to give the feet and mind a rest!

Climbing: Smear smear smear smear feet on nothing smear hands on crystals and be unduly grateful when you get a massive 1cm wide micro-nipple that enables you to get up a F6a after 20m of relentless English 5c slab climbing.

Wildlife: Two wild goats, two horses, lots of cool heron-like things in big nests by the road, and loads of griffon vultures....had seen these years ago in the Verdon and they are spectacular, 1m long, 2.5m wingspan, when they fly overhead it's like the shadow from an airplane.

And: Sunburn, yoiks!

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Title: La Pedriza 3.
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2011, 01:00:10 am
La Pedriza 3. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/la-pedriza-3.html)
3 April 2011, 5:00 pm



It is raining. This is bad, but not as bad as it could be. Firstly, our bungalow. This is a cramped, over-priced, uninsulated, wobbly box with fake wood plastic walls, loose sliding doors, a poxy micro-hob, and a bathroom sink unit that leaks and comes away from the wall. It is also - assuming one isn't using that sink - apparently completely watertight, and potentially warm. I knew with the non-100%-guaranteed dry climate that there was a good reason to get a bungalow rather than camp, and tonight's relative comfort and general relaxation makes the extortionate extra Euros and hours spent trying to find a suitable box worthwhile.

Secondly, the overall forecast. It was supposed to rain all day today, but it didn't start until 2:20. At 2:18 I started up a typical sketchy slab route, at 2:25 I lowered off the top just as it was getting problematic. We had preceded this by a couple of longer, easier angled, and smearier pitches. The usual deal but with slightly less bolts. Halfway up the first route I led I was feeling queasy due to the constant tentativeness of it all, by the top I was revelling in the sheer nonsense. So a planned wash-out day turned into actually getting into the park on a Sunday, a bit of walking, a bit of climbing, and then an afternoon vaguelly recceing some pretty nifty looking limestone areas. The forecast is okay tomorrow but the rock might need some drying time, then glorious for the rest of the week. Possibly too glorious with lots of sun and little wind, so we might need to hit the limestone as shelter from the sun (and slabs!) rather than shelter from the rain.

Climbing: One slab with less angle and less holds (was this possible? apparently so), one slab with more angle and more holds, mostly pointing in awkward directions. Fun!

Wildlife: Still more heron-like things, we still don't know what they are. 3 crag dogs one of which apparently would prefer chorizo rather than the stick I offered him. Not a chance.

And: Might be time for my first shower since Friday morning (too scared with sunburn last night). Mmmm hmmm.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Pedriza 4.
Post by: comPiler on April 05, 2011, 01:00:49 am
Pedriza 4. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/pedriza-4.html)
4 April 2011, 5:15 pm



Today it has not been raining. Instead, this was the sky at lunchtime:

Which was nice. There was a rather late start due to a somewhat cloudier forecast, and a pleasant breakfast fending off innumerably shy yet greedy kitties. Then, rather than slogging into La Pedriza with uncertainty as to what would dry, we went back to the limestone we recced yesterday. This proved to be a more than adequate choice with a vast amount of quickly drying routes set in a plush valley with a harmonious combination of natural beauty and minor manmade spectacle.

After 5 fun and mostly undergraded routes starting off a convenient walkway (somewhat more substantial than El Camino Del Rey), we had lunch and took stock of the situation. Despite the 11am departure, it was still only 3:30pm! Well there was only one sensible option, so we headed around to the other side, recced some now-baking routes for another day, and finished off with a blast of steep pocket pulling. The sides of my fingers are now trashed but my tips should be ready for more granite tomorrow...

This is not the approach path I am looking for...

Climbing: Lots. I thought the limestone was going to be a second-best rest/rainy day option compared to the granite, but it's pretty swish in it's own right.  

Wildlife: The following cats that attempted to raid/scavenge our bungalow: big and black (mean looking), black and white (bland), big and white/ginger and fluffy (king cat, must overheat here), small ginger (cutest), small mongrel (annoying and hissy and not getting any more food), other small mongrel (also cute)

And: Fucking crickets. Like a constant ray gun fire alarm rave outside. Why can't the kitties eat them??

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Pedriza 5.
Post by: comPiler on April 06, 2011, 01:00:16 am
Pedriza 5. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/pedriza-5.html)
5 April 2011, 5:33 pm



This is what we have to wake up to:

Gosh I am tired. Today we combined the steepness of limestone-style climbing with the texture of granite-style climbing and with a walk-in specifically designed to fuck my shit up. We headed to the mini-summit of Cancho De Los Muertos in search of steep shady granite walls, lo, after a "stop and rest every 2 mins" death-slog, we found what was promised.

The view from Cancho De Los Muertos:

Cancho De Los Muertos from the view:

The Cancho is rather fine place indeed, with sheer buttresses forming a summit crossroads micro-plateau, each way out leading to a different spectacular compass viewpoint, and some ways out leading to cool little climbing canyons. We did a lot in the main one of these, relishing in the shade, sliver of sun, and occasional fresh breeze....and relishing in steep granite climbing WITH HOLDS. Yes, actual holds. That one can pull on and all! The only slight detriment being that some of them were quite small and most of them required quite a bit of pulling, so the skin has suffered. A night of marinating in anti-hydral cream and a day of "gentle slabs" calls. Eeeek!

Climbing: 7 good, satisfying routes, 6 short and intense steep things, one so-called easy slab to "warm down".

Wildlife: All the usual suspect, plus one bonus ginger and white cat (seemed quite placid lying on a wall, so I threw chorizo at it). Still don't know what the bloody red beaked heron things are.

And: 0% San Miguel. The connoisseur's choice. And by "connoisseur" I mean "idiot".

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: La Pedriza 4.
Post by: comPiler on April 07, 2011, 01:00:24 am
La Pedriza 4. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/pedriza-4.html)
4 April 2011, 5:15 pm



Today it has not been raining. Instead, this was the sky at lunchtime:

Which was nice. There was a rather late start due to a somewhat cloudier forecast, and a pleasant breakfast fending off innumerably shy yet greedy kitties. Then, rather than slogging into La Pedriza with uncertainty as to what would dry, we went back to the limestone we recced yesterday. This proved to be a more than adequate choice with a vast amount of quickly drying routes set in a plush valley with a harmonious combination of natural beauty and minor manmade spectacle.

After 5 fun and mostly undergraded routes starting off a convenient walkway (somewhat more substantial than El Camino Del Rey), we had lunch and took stock of the situation. Despite the 11am departure, it was still only 3:30pm! Well there was only one sensible option, so we headed around to the other side, recced some now-baking routes for another day, and finished off with a blast of steep pocket pulling. The sides of my fingers are now trashed but my tips should be ready for more granite tomorrow...

This is not the approach path I am looking for...

Climbing: Lots. I thought the limestone was going to be a second-best rest/rainy day option compared to the granite, but it's pretty swish in it's own right.  

Wildlife: The following cats that attempted to raid/scavenge our bungalow: big and black (mean looking), black and white (bland), big and white/ginger and fluffy (king cat, must overheat here), small ginger (cutest), small mongrel (annoying and hissy and not getting any more food), other small mongrel (also cute)

And: Fucking crickets. Like a constant ray gun fire alarm rave outside. Why can't the kitties eat them??

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-6229239834430649269?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: La Pedriza 5.
Post by: comPiler on April 07, 2011, 01:00:24 am
La Pedriza 5. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/pedriza-5.html)
5 April 2011, 5:33 pm



This is what we have to wake up to:

Gosh I am tired. Today we combined the steepness of limestone-style climbing with the texture of granite-style climbing and with a walk-in specifically designed to fuck my shit up. We headed to the mini-summit of Cancho De Los Muertos in search of steep shady granite walls, lo, after a "stop and rest every 2 mins" death-slog, we found what was promised.

The view from Cancho De Los Muertos:

Cancho De Los Muertos from the view:

The Cancho is rather fine place indeed, with sheer buttresses forming a summit crossroads micro-plateau, each way out leading to a different spectacular compass viewpoint, and some ways out leading to cool little climbing canyons. We did a lot in the main one of these, relishing in the shade, sliver of sun, and occasional fresh breeze....and relishing in steep granite climbing WITH HOLDS. Yes, actual holds. That one can pull on and all! The only slight detriment being that some of them were quite small and most of them required quite a bit of pulling, so the skin has suffered. A night of marinating in anti-hydral cream and a day of "gentle slabs" calls. Eeeek!

Climbing: 7 good, satisfying routes, 6 short and intense steep things, one so-called easy slab to "warm down".

Wildlife: All the usual suspect, plus one bonus ginger and white cat (seemed quite placid lying on a wall, so I threw chorizo at it). Still don't know what the bloody red beaked heron things are.

And: 0% San Miguel. The connoisseur's choice. And by "connoisseur" I mean "idiot".

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8918263421237073255?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: La Pedriza 6
Post by: comPiler on April 07, 2011, 01:00:25 am
La Pedriza 6 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/la-pedriza-6.html)
6 April 2011, 5:25 pm



Today's kitty of the day is....small ginger (cute).

Today was a day of Anger and Lust. We were back on the slabs to rest our arms and trash our feet, and to continue trying to get to grips with this elusive slippery sneaky sandbag style. We found a shady slab, albeit not by finding the correct path to it, the usual boulder-bash being both an adequate warm-up and the redpoint crux of the day. We rattled off a few "easy" ones in swift succession, and one of them actually felt "easy". Possibly only a short grade undergraded. The Anger came next when I got on what could be the slab highlight of the trip, a mighty F6b+. Having done a few cruxy moves and generally on easier ground, I slipped off one poxy F6a+ move to finish. What a DICK.

Cue quickdraw and shoe hurling and a substantial stream of tourettes. As infuriating as this was, the general feasibility opened up the possibility of breaking the seemingly impenetrable F6b barrier. So I tried a F6c, did the crux moves of that (English 6b?) and then slipped off a slopey pull higher up, mostly due to warm conditions. It seems as the grade increases, the level of sandbagging decreases. Possibly. It also seems the conditions play as serious a role as they should - a couple of locals confirmed that "winter yes is the time for best climbing". Woot. Might have to come back. Not least because the Lust is there....finishing with a skin-of-teeth F6b, I felt a strangely alluring balance between the holdless horror of it all, and the zen-like zone of faith in friction. There is a seduction in these sheer slabs, a dark sensuality, a game of chance where one must seek calm in a hidden storm...

I rounded off the day with a dip in a snow-melt mountain river, mmm refreshing, an a huge tapas feast at a local bar. We could see the bar staff gazing and smirking at us when we'd clearly ordered too much and mountains of food kept coming, but they were all friendly handshakes and adioses and graciases when we paid the bill ;).

Climbing: Slabs slabs slabs slabs. 4 routes and a few more attempts....but it was supposed to be a sort of rest day....

Wildlife: The usual birdlife, camping kitty #8 - small, black (cute but limping), and lots of lizards today too.

And: Thanks to the hordes of people attempting to ID the mysterious heron-like things from my inept and vague descriptions, and congratulations to sidewinder who IDed them as White Storks. Here is a picture of a White Stork:

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-7552006983389977480?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: La Pedriza 2.
Post by: duncan on April 07, 2011, 08:41:41 am
La Pedriza 2. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/la-pedriza-2.html)


Hmmm yes the grades. There were rumours that the climbing was desperate for the grade, that is one correct way of putting it, another equally correct way is that the grades are complete shite. Either Costa Blanca / El Chorro / Costa Daurada / Siurana / Ceuse / Buoux etc etc are wrong....or Pedriza is. It's not rocket science, everything is simply undergraded by at least one, usually two grades. Oh wait, "It's friction slab climbing, you just aren't used to it yet". Bag of COCKS. I've done enough slabs and friction slabs to know. You don't get San Melas or Chalkstorm given E1 5a do you?? Exactly.

 fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)


Hmmmm. So Pedriza slabs are undergraded, Buoux slabs are undergraded, Font. slabs are undergraded, Swiss granite slabs are undergraded, Val di Mello slabs "ludicrously undergraded (http://www.planetfear.com/articles/Oceano_Irrazionale_510.html)", any US granite without a crack to fondle is undergraded, in fact any slabs outside the UK are undergraded...

Perhaps it's us and not them? 

Title: La Pedriza 7.
Post by: comPiler on April 07, 2011, 07:00:05 pm
La Pedriza 7. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/la-pedriza-7.html)
7 April 2011, 5:16 pm



Today's kitty of the day is....large ginger (cross, ugly, and a personal favourite). A last minute winner with good reason I'm sure you'll agree.

Lime lime glorious lime. Well it is glorious out here rather than the blocky blotchy ugly polished choss that people climb back home. Chee Dale I ask you?? Honestly. Ponton D'Oliva is where it's at. It is actually a really good crag of very typical Euro-lime with lots of routes. And lots of pockets. I've pulled on so many today I've lost count and lost enough skin around my knuckles....but kept my tips nice and fresh for more granite horrors tomorrow. As well as good climbing there was good climbing dog action: Primo was my favourite as he had the optimum balance of chilled out most of the time but utterly daft and giddy once you stroked him:

But also this unnamed perro was a winner for cute faces (admittedly mostly when trying to scavenge queso y chorizo).

Talking of chorizo, I have some for supper, and I

chorizo :)

Climbing: 6 very fine routes, including a trio of good F6cs with thuggy starts and delectable finishes. Felt more like proper grades and proper climbing. Tired by the end! Back to slabs tomorrow to get spanked like the bitch that I am.

Wildlife: Kitties #9 to #11 - large ginger (cross, ugly, and a personal favourite), small black two (only one eye but a cute miaow), medium tortoise shell (actually looks like a proper cat rather than a scruffy mongrel). Plus loads of good crag dogs. Muy bueno perros! Or something like that.

And: 6th day on, still syked. Forecast still good...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4533768724910442740?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: La Pedriza 8.
Post by: comPiler on April 09, 2011, 01:00:54 am
La Pedriza 8. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/la-pedriza-8.html)
8 April 2011, 5:30 pm



Today's kitty of the day is small mongrel (annoying and hissy). A controversial choice but she is such a regular feature that it seems fair.

Let's play a game. Grab a blank granite slab, a pair of rock shoes, and a dice. Yes, a dice, you know, standard D6 that you roll to see if your Orcs hit with their axes or your Space Marine was saved by his armour. Got that? Good.

Pick a smear. Take your time if you like, there are many to choose from, but be aware there will be subtleties and factors you have no idea of that will randomise your choice. Now, roll your dice....you don't get to see the result, but you will feel it's effect:

1 - 3 : Your foot sticks.

4 : Your foot just sticks but has set you off balance, add +1 to your next roll.

5 - 6+ : Your foot slips and you fall off.

Now, assuming the result was 1 - 4 and you stayed on, pick another smear, and roll again (maybe with that +1 modifier you're not aware of), and again. And again. And again and again and again.

THIS is Pedriza. This is what we face on the slabs.

Climbing: 4 slab routes, including my first F6b+ (which was very good), but 3 failures on F6b/+s. The game of chance....bad luck to fall and fail, good luck to stick and succeed....roll the dice. Plus rounded off with a few minor but fun steep routes at a roadside crag. Good overall!

Wildlife: The usual motley crue with no change and no new kitties.

And: Despite wearing a t-shirt (or perhaps because of, since it was my hideous yellow Fiend t-shirt), I have more sunburn and have just eaten my own bodyweight in a very garlicky potato stew. Good luck me sleeping tonight :S

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-6709636682498505732?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: La Pedriza 9.
Post by: comPiler on April 09, 2011, 07:00:06 pm
La Pedriza 9. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/la-pedriza-9.html)
9 April 2011, 4:41 pm



Today's kitty of the day is....small ginger and white (cute despite gammy eye).

Today we couldn't get into the damn Pedriza park. At the main entrance there was the usual gridlock queue (surely mostly walkers....if you're that keen on walking then just park up and fucking WALK you dickwads and let the climbers get in to climb....this applies to Llanberis and Burbage and everywhere else in the world too), and the village entrance was barricaded by police FFS. So we spun round and headed back to the lime and explored a different valley crag that was thrumming with other climbers but seemed to have enough easy routes to soak up the ceaseless tide of punterdom (us included). We pulled on plentiful pockets and rattled off several shady routes which made for a good back-up day. Tomorrow an early rise, a hope that the devoutly religious Spaniards keep away, and a swift morning slabbing it up before a long drive to a late flight...

Climbing: Lots of steady pockety routes, fun but not much that really left it's mark apart from a cool little roof with awkward jamming in it (that the locals seem to avoid by a much harder duo pocket lock).

Wildlife: Camping kitty #12 - small, black and scruff (kinda cute, funny stare, pissed all over the hire car), and that's about it.

And: 8th day on and still syked, I was keen to push it more this afternoon if there had been anything else inspiring. Mmmm climbing is good yes.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8213069744679927605?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: La Pedriza 10.
Post by: comPiler on April 11, 2011, 01:00:04 pm
La Pedriza 10. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/la-pedriza-10.html)
10 April 2011, 5:50 pm



The final kitty of the day is....a bonus one ;)

Well I have started writing this long before the final day and will no doubt finish it long after, but this is how it went in between those times...

Get up eat tortilla pack car cruise to La Pedriza walk into shady crag to do slabs and one steep arete realise shady crag is sunny cos we're early for a change ARSE try F6a slab fall off ARSE try F6a+ slab and give up ARSE both utterly nails get on semi-shady F6a+ slab do several English 6a cruxes randomly fall off top DOUBLE FUCKING ARSE fuck slabs go round to steep F6c arete cruise it YAY FUN redeem something out of the day walk back down go for swim in icy mountain river BRRRRR repack climbing bags and drive 5 hours to Alicante due to cunning timing arrive waaay early wait for hours for checkin YAWN eventually get through and stuff self on Burger King YUM more waiting at gate YAWN eventually get on plane pointing right direction MP3 player runs out of batteries and can't get comfortable to sleep FFS land wait for sodding ages for hordes of numpties to dribble through customs FFS YAWN wait more for airport parking bus JESUS FUCKING YAWN car starts thank god crash into bed at 1:30 ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ.

10 days of climbing, and a really cool new area explored (what it is all about), I feel pretty...

...chuffed

Climbing: The 6c arete was very cool. I got a bit bored of how purely random the slabs were by this point.

Wildlife: Nowt.

And: Tired.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-240898632769654662?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on April 11, 2011, 01:44:10 pm
BK? Bit of a break from the norm? Sounds like a good trip!
Title: Re: La Pedriza 10.
Post by: slackline on April 11, 2011, 01:53:04 pm
La Pedriza 10. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/la-pedriza-10.html)
10 April 2011, 5:50 pm



The final kitty of the day is....a bonus one ;)

Well I have started writing this long before the final day and will no doubt finish it long after, but this is how it went in between those times...

Get up eat tortilla pack car cruise to La Pedriza walk into shady crag to do slabs and one steep arete realise shady crag is sunny cos we're early for a change ARSE try F6a slab fall off ARSE try F6a+ slab and give up ARSE both utterly nails get on semi-shady F6a+ slab do several English 6a cruxes randomly fall off top DOUBLE FUCKING ARSE fuck slabs go round to steep F6c arete cruise it YAY FUN redeem something out of the day walk back down go for swim in icy mountain river BRRRRR repack climbing bags and drive 5 hours to Alicante due to cunning timing arrive waaay early wait for hours for checkin YAWN eventually get through and stuff self on Burger King YUM more waiting at gate YAWN eventually get on plane pointing right direction MP3 player runs out of batteries and can't get comfortable to sleep FFS land wait for sodding ages for hordes of numpties to dribble through customs FFS YAWN wait more for airport parking bus JESUS FUCKING YAWN car starts thank god crash into bed at 1:30 ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ.

10 days of climbing, and a really cool new area explored (what it is all about), I feel pretty...

...chuffed

Climbing: The 6c arete was very cool. I got a bit bored of how purely random the slabs were by this point.

Wildlife: Nowt.

And: Tired.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-240898632769654662?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

 :o Is this a rebellion or spy tactics checking out the competition?  :-\  :jab:
Title: La Pedriza Beta.
Post by: comPiler on April 14, 2011, 01:00:11 am
La Pedriza Beta. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/la-pedriza-beta.html)
13 April 2011, 6:44 pm



Go here, it's cool:

La Pedriza beta April 2011

General approach:

45 mins from Madrid airport, roads generally easy to negotiate by Spain's appalling standards. Manzaneres El Real is the useful hub of the area.

Driving approach:

Main La Pedriza entrance is very busy at weekends but quiet in the week. Arrive before 9am weekends or you won't get in and will face an extra hour's walk. Sunday slightly quieter early on but busy later.

El Tranco entrance is also very busy at weekends. There might be sneaky parking available for the brave / cunning, unless the police close the road. Again arrive early.

Alternatives: La Ermita El Boalo is impossible to find from book, check a map in advance. Placas De La Ermita is a valid option.

Walking approach:

Most main areas are at least 20-30 mins walk, with many more distant crags, although a few areas are 10 mins. The lower paths are very good, the main difficulty of the approach depends on getting the right uphill path to the actual crags. Find them and the approaches are okay, miss them and double the approach time.

Accommodation:

Accommodation is a bit awkward as there is no obvious hostel / cheap climber's hangout available (El Tranco is a cheap hotel, the park refuge is 40+ mins walk in the park), and the plethora of camping options often have difficult to find information on the internet. The general choices are:

Camping at E18-20 for 2 people plus car / night.

Campsite cabins at E50-55, sleeps 2-4 / night

Hotel rooms at E50-60 for double / night.

E.g.:

Camping El Ortigal - below El Tranco crags, very convenient, very busy and the Spanish-only owner is can be uninformative.

Camping La Fresneda - few km out of town, close but car useful, have cabins but got booked up.

Camping Pico De La Miel - 30 mins drive away, but en-route to limestone. Have dozens of cabins and bar with rubbish food but decent beer. Owner can speak English.

Equipment:

12 quickdraws, 60m rope. All crags we visited we fully bolted, also we never saw anyone carrying nor recommending trad kit so I assume many if not most of the other crags were bolted. There are a few good trad lines but nothing you wouldn't get in West Penwith. There is a colour-coded guide to the safety(?) of most routes, this did not seem to correspond to the bolt spacing nor anything obvious.

Shoes:

Shoes need to be tight to get most precision on the crystals AND loose for heel down rubber contact, also need to be soft and rounded for most sensitivity AND stiff and edgy for most support and solidity. Good luck.

Climbing:

If you're thinking of going you should know what it's about: lots of friction slabs, lots of crystal climbing, lots of single pitch, some multipitch, some steep stuff that's well worth seeking out as respite. Be warned the slab climbing is mis-graded and highly random.

Grades:

Some might say the grades are sandbags / stiff / whatever. The reality is they are simply wrong, albeit usually consistently wrong. The grades are normally 2 full grades below what they should be, sometimes 3, occasionally 1 if you are lucky. E.g. A Pedriza 6a slab will feel AT LEAST like a F6b / E2 5c slab elsewhere. The steep climbs are usually only 1 grade below what they should be.

Conditions:

A lot of the park gets a lot of sun and the crags are exposed to all of it (and any wind). Early April it was 22-24 degrees in the local town and most of the time we had to seek shade. The rock dries quickly but there is no shelter from rain on the granite.

Crags visited:

Canchos De Los Brezos: sun, fully bolted, 20 mins obvious approach, Sector Izquierdo can be runout, 60m rope.

Cancho Butron / Colina Hueca: shade unless sun is high, fully bolted, 25 mins obvious approach, narrow but comfy base, CB RHS has new direct lines.

Cancho De Los Muertos: shade and sun, fully bolted, 45 mins approach along river and up, path hard to find, direct ridge path from further parking would be gentler, great location at summit X-roads with steep climbing.

Muro Del Euro: early shade, fully bolted, 30 mins semi-obvious approach.

Risco De La Foca: late shade, fully bolted, easy 10 mins approach, steep routes at Placa Oeste debolted except F6c arete.

Quebrantaherraduras Inferior: shaded by trees, fully bolted, easy 10 mins approach, very busy, minor steep routes.

Placa De Las Nueve: sun, fully bolted, 20 mins okay approach, 60m rope useful.

El Indio / Risco De La Fuente: sun and shade, fully bolted, 20 minutes easy approach, bad rock on shady side of RDLF.

Patones specific beta April 2011

General:

Local limestone is highly pocketed and good respite for the fingertips. PDLO is an essential visit in it's own right. Grades are usually a bit stiff but close to being right, some sandbags on shorter routes. Plenty of shade if needed. Easy road access heading East from the same motorway Junction that Pedriza is West from.

Crags visited:

Ponton De La Oliva: sun and shade, very easy approach, no parking problems, Placas De Sol upwards was closed from middle parking, West side is a cool setting, East side is as good as any Euro-lime crag. 60m rope recommended.

Los Alcores: sun, easy approach, entirity of riverside crag is flooded, remaining upper tier crag is worst I've visited in Europe.

Canyon De Uceda: shade, rocky approach and some narrow ledges, not child-friendly, Sector Antonio Martin worth visiting, rest very short.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-7918112602744319272?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: La Pedriza 2.
Post by: Fiend on April 14, 2011, 08:09:57 pm

Hmmmm. So Pedriza slabs are undergraded, Buoux slabs are undergraded, Font. slabs are undergraded, Swiss granite slabs are undergraded, Val di Mello slabs "ludicrously undergraded (http://www.planetfear.com/articles/Oceano_Irrazionale_510.html)", any US granite without a crack to fondle is undergraded, in fact any slabs outside the UK are undergraded...

Perhaps it's us and not them?

MEH  :blink:

I do recall doing a Buoux slab that was hard. It was F6c and felt damn stiff at that grade. Would have got F6a+ in Pedriza.

Font slabs are nonsense yes. Don't know about the rest.

The reason why it is THEM rather than US is because properly graded slabs are consistent with nearby other styles of climbing. E.g. if you get a normally graded gritstone slab it will feel overall similar in physical challenge (taking into account stylistic differences) to a same grade grit crack / wall / whatever. San Melas -- Gypfast, yeah they both feel like E3 5c. In Pedriza a F6a slab will feel waaaay harder than an F6b wall. Something is wrong and given the F6b wall is fairly consistent with everything else I've ever climbed on the planet, then I vote for the slab :chair:

Familiarity, yes that could be a factor. I was raised on grit and culm slabs and have done some of my hardest leads and boulder problems on them. Slab climbing feels totally natural to me, unlike say, relentless overhangs, blank grooves, wide cracks etc etc  :???:
Title: A mulltitude of mulling on Mull.
Post by: comPiler on April 28, 2011, 01:00:27 am
A mulltitude of mulling on Mull. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/04/mulltitude-of-mulling-on-mull.html)
27 April 2011, 11:23 am



Woohoo I got to Mull. Simon D and I had a long-running plan over the entire winter to go there for some suntrap cragging. Generally the "sun" part of the suntrap cragging didn't happen enough to justify the drive/ferry/limited accomodation logistics, so the winter plan became a spring plan and a "whenever" plan. That whenever was the last long weekend and we took full advantage of it and had a great trip...

Day 1

Venue: Scoor

Rock: Schist

Climbing: Sheer slabby trad

Routes: Lead E2 5b, E3 6a, E2 5c, E3 6a, E2 5b

~€~

Day 2

Venue: Erraid

Rock: Granite

Climbing: Slabby and steep trad

Routes: Lead E2 5c, E2 5b, E1 5b, E1 5b, E3 5c, E2 5b, soloed VS 4c, VS 4c, HVS 5a

~€~

Day 3

Venue: Loch Buie

Rock: Gabbro

Climbing: Bulging bouldering

Problems: Crushed V4 (flash), V5 (2nd go), V4 (4 goes), V6 (worked)

~€~

Day 4

Venue: Ardtun

Rock: Dolerite

Climbing: Vertical crack/groove trad

Routes: Lead E1 5b, E2 5b, E3 5c, E2 5b

~€~

In general

Climbing: Very good. Mostly short but intense. Good value.

Variety: Excellent. Various rock types and various styles (there is also granite bouldering, gneiss and limestone)

Acessibility: Reasonable once over there. Some long-ish walks but not steep.

Scenery: Stunning beaches or dramatic mountains.

Wildlife: 4 friendly pigs, a hare, a cluster of seals, a lost cow on a huge beach, a small lizard, a normal peacock and an albino peacock.

Facilities: Figden campsite exposed but lovely setting. Good showers but can run cold if busy. Fionnport shop excellent for it's small size.

Food: Tobermory whisky B2B Isle Of Mull smoked cheese.

~€~

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1451595644181801386?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Glorious Gairloch.
Post by: comPiler on May 03, 2011, 01:00:34 am
Glorious Gairloch. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/05/glorious-gairloch.html)
2 May 2011, 3:36 pm



One of my current aims in exploring around Scotland is to sample the local whisky from each major climbing area I visit. I like climbing and I like whisky and I like supping on a wee dram of the latter with a campsite dinner after doing plenty of the former. The harmony of climbing on the bones of the land during the day, and feasting on the fruits of it's flesh in the evening. So far I've had good, great, or sometimes just adequate combinations of: Caithness climbing + Old Pultney, Inverness/Moray/Aberdeen climbing + Singleton, and Skye climbing + Talisker.

One place where this combination has always eluded me is the Ullapool-Gairloch area, rich in excellent cragging but barren in comparable whiskies, Inverness and Wick distilleries not quite having the local feel....until now that is!

A tip off from a local shop led me to this secret micro-distillery (http://www.lochewedistillery.co.uk/index.htm) at Aultbea, and a small but expensive purchase of their cask strength spiced rum cask (to go with the summery weather) single malt. So far, so promising. After a fresh breezy day at Tollie Crag, there was something warming to look forward to. But what about the taste?? I am pleased to report it is a tipple that worthily matches the quality of Gairloch cragging. Brought down to bottle strength with a drop of water, it blends a good sharp spice with tropical fruit tones and a woody casky finish that was most pleasing. A rousing success.

Oh yeah and we climbed at Tollie Crag and Loch Maree Crag with not a midge in sight, and Loch Tollaidh (above) in fierce evening sun, then wombled past Whale Rock in Glen Nevis on the way back. Mostly fairly punterly but the weather was awesome and it was great to explore the elusive Tollie midge-havens in fresh conditions, and Arial at Loch Maree was the most outrageously big pitch I can recall climbing. Time for a wee break, some training, and hopefully some progression.

P.S. and someone set fire to Liathach DOH.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-7108765508355795694?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: The Usual Bollox.
Post by: comPiler on May 12, 2011, 01:00:27 am
The Usual Bollox. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/05/usual-bollox.html)
11 May 2011, 8:05 pm



Sunshine and showers, the most despicable and infuriating of anti-climber weather conditions, guaranteed in it's unpredictability to turn out gorgeous if you stay in and and start pissing down as soon as you go out to touch rock, the heaviness of Scottish showers ensuring that even wet-weather options get adequately annoying seepage and the general on/off nonsense of such a reprehensibe climate cock-up preventing even the most slightly interesting trip away, maximising the boredom of snatched hours at local venues and allowing the myopic and unimaginative to claim they're having an awesome early summer climbing because they go to Stanage / Avon / Dumby every sodding time.

The silver lining to these mocking clouds being that I am 1. Kinda busy and 2. Kinda syked to train, after the last two glorious trips away which were great exploration but left me with a slightly sensation that I was STILL lagging behind the potential I wished to progress into, and needed to up my stamina and general physical and mental ability to cope with the steepness that obviously or insidiously infests most Scottish mid-grade cragging. Hence sessions at the campus board, gym, and the mighty R, which I went down to last saturday after a campussing and gym session and still did okay, which shows potential THERE but I need to, and will do, a fair bit more in the meantime. Bring on the pump.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4931889718097501229?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: The Waiting Game.
Post by: comPiler on May 19, 2011, 07:00:13 pm
The Waiting Game. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/05/waiting-game.html)
19 May 2011, 12:26 pm



Some free time, some keen partners, some atrocious weather.

This is the way it goes but once all the moaning and ranting and fist-shaking is out of the way, what is the best way to make the best use out of it?? In Arno's (http://warriorsway.com/) Problem - Question - Opportunity terms:

Problem: The weather fucking blows.

Question: What can I do in climbing / planning terms to maximise current and future enjoyment despite the weather??

Opportunity: Work out what areas are best to explore in weather that fucking blows, work out what climbing desires can be incorporated into weather that fucking blows, take the opportunity to train in preparation for when the weather doesn't fucking blow.

So, here are some ideas for reference, for when it's the typical south-westerly sunshine/fuckingshowers wet in the west weather:

Venues:

Northumberland: Callerhues, Rothley, Simonside, Bowden, Goat Crag...

South West: Laggantalluch, Crammag Head, Kiln O' Fuffock...

Central Outcrops: Tig-thingy Viewpoint, Glen Croe, Ardvorlich, Glen Lednock, Glen Ogle...

Eastern Outcrops: Glen Clova, Limekilns, Roslin Glen, Cambusbarron, Angus Quarries, Weem...

North East: Ballater, Rosehearty, Tarlair, Red Tower, Harper's Wall, Earnsheugh, Craig Stirling and more...

...all of which have either useful training routes (physically and mentally challenging), or specific inspirations, or would be interesting to explore, or would tackle useful climbing styles.

Other plans:

Bouldering: Glen Nevis, Arrochar (projects ;)), Carrock Fell, Gouther Crag, Gillercombe etc etc, Queen's Crag, Simonside Plateau, Shaftoe etc etc...

...the weather might be occasionally warm but it's often bloody windy during sunshine/fuckingshowers periods, so conditions can be surprisingly good. More mixing and matching, more exploration, more physical training, more fun.

Suitable inspirations: As well as exploring super-awesome (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=4478) areas, I do want to push myself a bit more and explore new areas of challenge and personal climbing development. Some of those challenges are more local, more compatible with general training and a focused hit... ...so that could be a good aspiration.

Training: I've found I need to progress physically to progress with my climbing overall, particularly fitness, stamina, and power to weight ratio. The gym, the campus board, the mighty R, the local-ish sport venues are all suitable and I do have some syke to keep using... ...this needs to be balanced with "keeping my hand in" on trad, but should leave me better prepared when it's dry enough to get to proper venues.

Overall: when the weather fucking blows, explore locally, mix and match with other climbing styles, train hard, and be ready to crush the Highlands and Islands :).

(And paint more toy soldiers and listen to more drum and bass...)

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8745732493917024506?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Backlog Bollox
Post by: comPiler on June 11, 2011, 07:00:15 pm
Backlog Bollox (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/06/backlog-bollox.html)
11 June 2011, 9:24 am



Holy arse on toast it's been a long time since I posted any ramblings on here. The main reason being that things have been a bit bollox with weather, car trouble, partner mis-organisation, general slothfulness and other malaises.

Things I haven't done recently include:

Boo.

What a choad.

What I have done is sat on my arse too much, and then a bit of the following:

Horribly Weak at Harper's Wall

The low point of this year if not my life. Not only did I have to resort to climbing a VS, I actually enjoyed it. Ugggghhhhh. VS. Fucking hillwalking.

Breezy Cruising at Brown Crag

Obviously the above was completely unacceptable. So, after a good night's sleep and a strong coffee, Phil and I headed down to Brown Crag to see what we could do. The initial plan was to go back to square 1 and get some good E1 mileage there. As it turned out, conditions were good, the vibe was good, I was suitably wary/prepared for the steepness, and slowly eased my way into E1 5a, E1 5b, E1 5c, E2/3 5c, E2/3 5c, which whilst only just above hillwalking / descent route level, did actually feel like climbing. All pretty nice routes too.

Kinda fun at The Keel

I arranged to climb with Stuart. He suggested The Keel, a new local sport climbing crag on the Aberdeen coast. Ugggghhhhh. I expected something that would make Boltsheugh look like Ceuse. Really the last sort of place I'd want to go on a decent day with a plethora of trad available. Nevertheless I went along to give it ago, cos he's a nice guy, I might get some good training in, and maybe persuade him over to Coble Boards afterwards. As it happens although The Keel was short, steep and scruffy, it was long enough to make leading feel pretty worthwhile, and the climbing was actually kinda fun and it felt good to get involved and get a decent workout.

Casual Flailing at Carrock Fell

Each time I go to Carrock Fell it seems to be in bollox conditions. This time I thought previous bone dry days plus a forecast 10-20 mph Easterly wind would encourage some sort of friction but alas no. The rock was dry but my skin wasn't and although it was cool-ish there was a vague mugginess that ensured a brief session and a determination to revisit more in winter.

Going Okay at Glen Ogle

More local days, blah blah. Went up to Glen Ogle to sample fresh breeze and afternoon sun and it was pretty good despite it being blind rounded dusty slopey obtuse schist at it's almost worst. Nevertheless I climbed okay, highlights being a near miss on a slopey F7a - had actually committed fully to the moves and was 0.0000001 seconds away from getting a jug when I lost balance. Good that I put the effort in rather than wimping out but annoying it was rewarded with failing anyway. And a near success on the classic E3 crackline which was easy on all the steep bits and tricky on all the slabby ledgy bits and while never actually hard was sufficiently obscure enough I very nearly came off on dusty rock but somehow persuaded myself to adhere. Not so much a fun romp as a good exercise in staying calm.

Chilling at Cambusbarron

Finally went to Camby just for something to do, and that something to do seemed to mostly be lounging on my mat enjoying the sporadic sun. Did one warm-up route, tried a supposed easy E3 that was utter nails, backed off in a confused micro-huff, decided it was too still / tiring to try anything challenging and blah blah.

SoOoOo....what next to sort this debacle out. I'd love to say "more Highlands and Islands awesomeness" but I doubt the diabolical weather gods will be that kind. I certainly need to keep up with my concepts (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/05/waiting-game.html) for dealing with shitty weather. I also need to train a lot more, and follow up some leads for a climbing trip abroad. Better get my arse off the toast and into gear then...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4106889174572343573?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Dabbling at Dumby.
Post by: comPiler on June 19, 2011, 01:00:09 am
Dabbling at Dumby. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/06/dabbling-at-dumby.html)
18 June 2011, 6:29 pm



I've gone off Dumby a bit. Unless I got there properly focused with a clear intention, I usually end up dabbling on the boulders. The boulders, however, being stern, unforgiving and generally disdainful of human beings, do not tolerate such dabbling. They demand no less than the upmost dedication and the upmost determination to their harsh and hostile intricacies.

Plus I am fat and weak and can't do problems I could do years ago.

However I sometimes go down and get tempted to dabble in other directions - further upwards, with a rope and sometimes a rack. The other evening was one of those occasions. My fingers were knackered from a good campus / fingerboard session (part of the plan to de-weakify, given my fucked legs severely inhibit de-fatifying), so I just fancied some Easy Trad. Dumby isn't the best place for that once you've done the big Windjammer/LongBow combination, but a bit of hunting around reveals some options.

First up was The Whip. This was given a bland 5b grade in the old guide. IIRC, Dave Macleod was asking for feedback on some Glasgow outcrops, and I amongst other suggested that some of the longer "problems" at Dumby and Craigmore might just deserve adjectival grades. For example, The Whip is 5b, hard 5b to start and then fairly mild 5b to finish - 8m up above an abrupt angled landing. Well worth it's E2 5b and two stars. I set off in warm weather with little chalk and clunky resoled shoes, just intending to play on the bottom to warm up. However the steadily defined moves and good rests just encouraged me to go all the way up, so with some trepidation I did.

Second was some searching with Neil for a suitable lead for both of us. I spotted Eldorado, an obvious if mis-described direct start to Desperado. Neil muses "I thought you wanted Easy Trad, like HVS, rather than E3 5c". Well, errr, E3 5c IS Easy Trad, particularly when it's a short direct start to an HVS rather than some overhanging and unpredictable mega-pitch. I can't pretend otherwise. So I got on it. The start took some working out, with a low altitude but high chance of failure off balance lunge to a jug. After that it was steady up the HVS, which was actually an E1. I rather enjoyed it. Neil thought it was okay. The consensus was the start was sort of E2/3 5c/6a, with more risk of severe lacerations from brambles and broken glass than actual breakages of one's own.

And that was that. Very much a "treading water" session, like ALL the ones I'm having - and getting bored with - at the moment. Fun in itself but not satisfying the deeper exploratory and progressive urges. The weather is still sodding awful but I keep trying to be patient and keep training...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1999180325791227387?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Leisurely climbing at Loudon.
Post by: comPiler on June 21, 2011, 01:00:13 pm
Leisurely climbing at Loudon. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/06/leisurely-climbing-at-loudon.html)
21 June 2011, 10:21 am



I had a terrible thought recently. I've been getting a few decent local days out, and I suddenly realised that it would be theoretically possible for me to be one of those smug patronising twats who, after a typically abysmal non-summer, whitters on with crap like "What was the problem with the weather? I got out a few times every week, it was fine" as if their myopic and insular repeat visits to the same local crag in between showers did the term "getting out" any form of justice.

So, make no mistake, the weather is fucking appalling. Sure I got out last Thursday evening, and yesterday afternoon in nice fresh dry weather, but Friday was pissing down, Saturday was pissing down, Sunday was constant showers, and today is so pissing down it makes Friday look like the Sahahra. Local cragging is keeping my hand in but it is in no way the sort of proper trips that a summer is for.

Anyway, Loudon. Finally got out with B, whose regular mid-week days off usually coincide with the rain when we've planned to climb, but not yesterday. It was quite fine at Mount Loudon despite a bit of mugginess on the walk-up (and maybe a bit hot and bothered after overshooting the A71 junction and ended up South of Ayr...). B was keen for trad mileage, I was keen for more treading water, and we followed that keeness, conquering Mount Loudon via 7 good routes, culminating in finally laying Epitaph Sodding Variation to rest. This was quite pleasing because last summer I had a right flap on it before reversing off, this time although quite hard it just worked naturally. So I guess I am maintaining a steady level. Hopefully this will set me up for pushing things a bit....at some distant point :S

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1518836384060154843?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Two sides...
Post by: comPiler on June 28, 2011, 07:00:05 pm
Two sides... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/06/two-sides.html)
26 June 2011, 5:19 pm



Two climbers.

One route.

One challenge.

Both climbers tackle this challenge. Both climbers push themselves. Both climbers have to put a large amount of effort and many attempts into the route. Both climbers have to overcome previous difficulties to succeed.

One climber completes the route, and in his celebration of success, just mentions the route name and maybe the quality, but not the grade.

One climber completes the route, and in his celebration of success, just mentions the grade, but not the route name nor the quality.

A small detail, but...

One meaning or two different meanings?

One inspiration or two different inspirations?

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4330314603773905525?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Classic Caithness Coolness.
Post by: comPiler on June 28, 2011, 07:00:05 pm
Classic Caithness Coolness. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/06/classic-caithness-coolness.html)
28 June 2011, 5:22 pm



Yay! Back to Caithness at last. Somewhere that always inspired me from reading about it in guidebooks and magazines (I wonder if Duncan Disorderly knows I pinched his OTE with the Caithness special a few years ago??), and somewhere that has proved to be worth that inspiration on initial and subsequent visits. My visits now total 3, which I hoped would be enough (not least because of a certain tedium with the neverending Inverness > Wick finale of the 5+ hour drive), but will likely require at least one more, as this trip was 66% rather than 100% successful...

Much Climbing at Mid Clyth

Yay! For Mid Clyth. A brief initial visit merely sampled the compact and heavily starred Stack area, this substantial return visit confirmed the validity of those stars in an orgy of steep wall climbing. Yes, it really is as good as the guidebook (the definitive, not the less reliable selected guide which criminally misses out this fine crag) says, with a veritable plethora of minor classics crowded side by side above the most convenient (abseil descent aside) of flat platforms. More than you can shake a stick at....or even a seal. Verily the seals were out in force, lowing and mooing and staring quizzically at our bizarrely non-aqueous antics. Those antics simply included a lot of great climbing....and that was that.

Showers at Scarlet

Since the weather forecast predicted 3 unbroken dry days, the rain had the decency to wait until midway through the second day. Oh what courtesy. Before this meterological blip, the mighty Sarclet was the natural choice for the day. Sarclet is somewhat more adventurous, although the main adventure involved trying to construct a vaguely comfortable two man survival shelter out of a ropebag, a rucsac, a small rockshelf with a good RP above it, and a few badly tensioned and even worse placed anchors. This sufficed - barely - for early showers, thus allowing us to snatch a couple of warm-up routes. However the last route was led in light drizzle and seconded in substantial rain. After a soggy and swearful retreat, the sun came out at the car. Arse and double arse.

Evening Esoterica

After an emergency - and pleasingly free - weather check at the Wick library, there was enough promise for the 3rd day....and the 2nd evening. The showers had scarcely tickled Wick nor the coast further North, so we tried Auckengill, lured by the dubious promise of easily accessible 3 star 8m routes. Hmmmm. Well apart from obviously not being 3 star routes, it was pretty cool. A charmingly relaxed location above an arguably even more convenient platform. The couple of chosen routes were definitely short but also distinctly steep, providing some good value. Not nearly as steep as a final digestif route at The South Head Of Wick....an alleged E2 5b with a hard 5c/6a crank above just adequate wires, hard to place amongst severely overhanging climbing the whole of it's brief and brutal way. This required enough up and downclimbing to get a Munro tick, yet was still fun enough climbing to make a perky E3/4 despite such dicking around.

Slipperiness at Sarclet

Thanks to the still dry forecast, the day dawned drizzly on the campsite. Back to the ever-useful library and the promise of a dry afternoon to be worth a morning caffeinating (Morag's Cafe being surprisingly good in this regard), perusing the vast array of tractor magazines (10 different ones in total, I was struggling to decided between Vintage Tractor, Old Tractor, and Classic Tractors) and general faffing (like I need any practise). Heading out to finish the job at Sarclet once more, the brightening day and freshning breeze promised the elusive sending conditions. However my befuddlement about onshore and offshore breezes and sea-cliff conditions was at the fore again. After following the mighty Pimpernel and doing a brief warm up, my chosen inspiration, despite looking reassuringly welcoming from a pert wee belay ledge, was greasier than a whore's fuckflaps. Thus escape was made, and there was little more to be done.

A rather good trip but a couple of Sarclet classics still remaine...so close....yet not close enough...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-7091033558613055025?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: Classic Caithness Coolness.
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on June 29, 2011, 01:33:16 pm
Classic Caithness Coolness. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/06/classic-caithness-coolness.html)
28 June 2011, 5:22 pm
Yay! Back to Caithness at last. Somewhere that always inspired me from reading about it in guidebooks and magazines (I wonder if Duncan Disorderly knows I pinched his OTE with the Caithness special a few years ago??),

He fucking does now you theiving bastard :furious:

That's not the one with the classic 8a's in it too.... If not it must be another of my "so called" mates ;D

Pikey bastard :spank:

:D
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on June 29, 2011, 01:46:53 pm
LOL  :lol:. You can have it back when you come up to go bouldering at Dumby....some of the Caithness article pages are a bit sticky but you wouldn't be reading those anyway  :-*
Title: Sunstroke at Stranraer.
Post by: comPiler on July 05, 2011, 01:00:38 am
Sunstroke at Stranraer. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/07/sunstroke-at-stranraer.html)
4 July 2011, 6:23 pm



Decisions decisions this weekend. The weather forecast was good but the midge forecast was less good especially in the hills, with the wind sometimes struggling to break the 5 mph bare minimum. Sea-cliffs or similar were proposed, and for the purposes of convenient travelling were narrowed down to: Ardnamurchan, Aberdeen area, or Stranraer Peninsula. Much triangulation of surrounding Met Office locations and averaging out potential wind speeds ruled out Ardnamurchan, enthusiasm for a dry-in-the-west forecast ruled out Aberdeen, so Stranraer it was, for the triple whammy of Crammag, Llaggantalluch, and Portobello (the crag, not the Edinburgh district not the London district nor indeed the mushroom, although there was talk of taking some to the crag, sauteeing them on a camp stove and getting the essential but still apparently unclaimed "Eating Portobellos at Portobello" tick).

So yes. The weather was glorious. I got sunburnt knees from my cutting edge shorts + compression stockings combo. And a sunburnt head. And sunburnt shoulders from my "hide the gut show the guns" wifebeater. We did some great climbs each day. Slabs and roof cracks and thin walls and all sorts. The micro-granite is a unusual delight, the greywacke a familiar delight. We saw a curious seal each day (probably not the same one) and lots of annoyingly loud seagulls. I did one of my finest crag turds ever, coiling it out in a splendid figure of 8. We stayed at a huge caravan park at Sandhead that despite being very distant from the wilderness experience, did good butties and good coffee. And went to a very nice pub nearby for a fine meal punctuated by a splendid butterscotch profiterole dessert, probably the highlight of the trip.

Hurrah for climbing really!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-9156604171468635517?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Sweden calling...
Post by: comPiler on July 07, 2011, 01:00:05 pm
Sweden calling... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/07/sweden-calling.html)
6 July 2011, 1:22 pm



I am going to Sweden for 12 days! Bohuslan! Climbing! And the rest of my experience will hopefully be summed up in the two videos above! Won't have my laptop so no updates but no doubt there will be some extended waffling when I return...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4795355441448471922?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Sweden the country.
Post by: comPiler on July 22, 2011, 07:00:04 pm
Sweden the country. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/07/sweden-country.html)
21 July 2011, 5:17 pm

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-3041639067942373877?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Sweden the ticklist.
Post by: comPiler on July 25, 2011, 01:00:03 am
Sweden the ticklist. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/07/sweden-ticklist.html)
24 July 2011, 6:40 pm



Bohuslan:

(5 days climbing)

Skalefjall:

En Liten Bit Granit 6 **

Granitebiten 7- ***

Machete 6 *

Hallinden:

Prismaster 6- *** (second)

Afterburner 6+ **

Fjedan:

Petroleum 5+ ** (s)

Bideford Dolphin 5- * (s)

Galgeberget:

Galgen 6- *

Ater Komsten 4+ ** (s)

Ballabaget 6+ **

Haller:

Mallorol 6- ***

Chapman 6 **

Granite Grotto:

??? F6c

Spektakel F6a

Islandshäst 6b+ **

Norden's Ark:

Jarven 5+ *

Snoleoparden 6+ **

Svanberget:

Hostsonaten 6+ **

Bergkirstis Polka 6- ***

Hogberget:

Lattja 6+ **

Utby:

(1 day climbing)

Snett A Vanster 6 ***

Ants In My Pants 6- ** (s)

Panda 6- ***

??? 5+ * (s)

Bagarmossen 6 *

Svara Diedret 6- **

Seglora:

(2 days climbing)

Punsch 6-

Kronartskolkans Flykt 7-

Delikatessan 7-

Kastrationsangest 7-

Ankedammen 7

Vino Tinto 6

Gasa Marsch 6

Basalt 6

Gettingen 6-

Arponas Planet 7-

Blackfisken 6+

Mluda Matilda 7

Matildas Groggveranda 7

Bjorn Sover 7-

Svartenbrandt 7-

Arkiv X 6+

Lenas Led 6-

Kullaberg:

??? 5- **

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4655558944344639919?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Sweden the photos.
Post by: comPiler on July 25, 2011, 07:00:15 pm
Sweden the photos. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/07/sweden-photos.html)
25 July 2011, 6:00 pm



Bivvy hut in front of the lake.

Lake in front of the bivvy hut.

Typical walk-in at Seglora.

The amazing Afterburner.

More Afterburner.

How can anyone possibly resist??

Typically chilled out climbing vibes at Galgeberget.

Weekly washtime!

View out from Svaneberget.

Nice route at Utby in Gothenburg itself.

Same.

And another nice route at Utby.

Same. Funky rock there.

Dunno what it is but in the words of my mum: "looks friendly tho;-)"

Dude where does the line go??

Somehow not getting too lost...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2899640643555899292?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Clambering at Creag Dubh and The Camel.
Post by: comPiler on July 29, 2011, 07:00:06 pm
Clambering at Creag Dubh and The Camel. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/07/clambering-at-creag-dubh-and-camel_29.html)
29 July 2011, 1:14 pm



Back in sunny Scotland, I just had a nice wee trip in rather glorious weather. Time constraints prevented heading too far afield, so Central Highlands it was. Creag Dubh is one of those crags that keeps on giving - there is so much at the low-mid extreme standard that there always seems to be something to do. My main inspiration is some of the harder Great Wall routes, but warm weather and general lack of both fitness and confidence discouraged that. Seepage discouraged Ticket To Ride, laziness discouraged Barrier Wall, but a dry Waterfall Buttress provided a good opportunity to sample the semi-aqueous delights there. A couple of good routes - one very much in the classic "easy but bold jugpulling" Creag Dubh style - got me rather syked for more.

However variety is the spice of life and B-dawg was keen to get humping The Camel, and that seemed like a good plan to me, so after the usual nice & cheap Newtonmore camping and greasy spoon breakfast complete with irredeemably awful coffee, we trotted up there in a mere hour. The day was warm, the Camel was cold and the cobbles could feel cruel to numb fingers, but I managed a few routes including the deservedly classic Stone Of Destiny, and yes, you can ride on the stone :D

Unfortunately my lack of fitness took it's toll on the hugely harder classic F7a, and I slumped off. More stamina training needed, more indication that despite these fun trips I'm still treading water, and it made me grump like an Orc:

P.S. Left over from a previous blog but cleverly continuing the C-theme, here is some more Caithness Culture:

This year there were 10 different tractor magazines in the Wick Newsagent, rather than merely 8. I was stuck what to buy and ended up so confused I bought a copy of Climb instead (which coincidentally had an article on Bohuslan).

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-6663843989440163013?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Summer bouldering on Simonside.
Post by: comPiler on August 02, 2011, 07:00:05 pm
Summer bouldering on Simonside. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/08/summer-bouldering-on-simonside.html)
2 August 2011, 4:49 pm



Weekend forecast was funny. Didn't really make many plans. Ended up on a last minute trip down to Northumberland, where the weather was neither funny nor funny in fact it was fully fine. Solid sunshine, a bit of a breeze, and definite dryness. Perfect for checking out Simonside on a long summer's day. Unfortunately there was a slight technical hitch when my planned partner didn't appear nor answer any sporadic phone contact over 2 hours waiting. It later turns out he had a car crash and was admitted to hospital for a few stitches OOOOPS.

Oh well in the meantime I made some use out of the 4 hour round trip by hiking up onto the Simonside plateau, via a serious of blatant and cruel false summits, on a bumbly bouldering mission. This kinda sucked as it didn't involve any Easy Trad, but was kinda cool as it did involve a lot of walking, a fair bit of easy bouldering mileage, some renewed inspiration for Northumbrian rock (useful in the current return to dire weather), as well as a useful recce of a few cool problems for winter conditions. It felt like a "full" afternoon out and was vaguely useful training for the greater ranges so that's nice. Still missed the trad tho, still missing bigger challenges tho.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2147689011833290617?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Gaylord chosseering at Glen Clova.
Post by: comPiler on August 06, 2011, 01:00:06 pm
Gaylord chosseering at Glen Clova. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/08/gaylord-chosseering-at-glen-clova.html)
6 August 2011, 8:59 am



Glen Clova:


Fiend:
Less of a "maintaining standards" session and more of a "maintaining a complete inability to progress even slightly" session. A previous session at Ratho had me feeling surprisingly unpunterish but once on real rock with the real prospect of climbing above real trad protection and really actually getting a vaguely tricky climb done, the gaylordness - and complete lack of overall fitness - was out in standard force. I did manage a couple of easier routes tho so there is some mileage there. Also got to recce plenty of Clova for future potential - i.e. there isn't that much that looks super-awesome enough.

Learnings from this session: more determination when tackling trickier routes and definitely more fitness training.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1619807326432953752?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on August 06, 2011, 07:49:44 pm
Should have bouldered.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on August 07, 2011, 01:24:40 pm
LOL. Bouldering just increases my punterdom. Will go back for more bouldering in cooler weather tho.
Title: A recce of Arran.
Post by: comPiler on August 18, 2011, 07:00:11 pm
A recce of Arran. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/08/recce-of-arran.html)
18 August 2011, 11:24 am



Arran bouldering that is. Yes the mountain stuff looks great blah blah 600m altitude walking pretty much from sea level FUCK THAT.

So, the bouldering. Contrary to the mountains the bouldering is the very definition of accessible, not so much roadside as actually on the road itself, in the case of the Cat Stone at Corrie. Warm weather, limited time and a lack of spotters precluded much sendage, but I got to check out the following areas:

Kildonan:

(Above) Very pleasantly situated beach bouldering on well-sculpted gabbro. But very limited with only a few good problems before the rock turns too ledgy or scrittly. Good potential for some serious highballs but I wouldn't go back.

Corrie Boulders:

The classic road circuit, on road or off road take your pick. A line of proper granite lumps scattered throughout Corrie village, with proper coarse texture and proper frictional slopers. I did a wee bit of bouldering but it wasn't the weather for it. What I saw inspired me to come back when it's 15 degrees colder and I have 100% more bouldering buddies with me, to tackle some good bulging slabby things and some good bulging roofy things.

Mushroom Boulder:

A brief look at this overhanging beast provided additional inspiration. While some aspects are crude and could do with a good scrub, the combination of juggy roofs leading into spicey highball slab finishes looks like another good "team fun" venue and contrasts nicely with the granite.

So, a vague plan for winter:

1. Grab some syked friends, lots of pads, a flask of coffee and a short piece of rope.

2. Drive down and get an early ferry across to the island as passengers (car alone is £62 return UGHHH, passengers £10 return).

3. Get the bus up to the far Corrie boulder and start there.

4. Walk back through the other boulders loosing skin but gaining sends.

5. Hitch/bus back down to the Mushroom. Ab down and brush off the finishes. By this time skin should be trashed but muscles not quite worn out - finish them off on the steep sandstone.

6. Bus back to Brodwick and ferry home.

7. Celebrate with fish and chips.

8. Yay!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8424020783582482481?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Detachment and distance.
Post by: comPiler on August 19, 2011, 07:00:17 pm
Detachment and distance. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/08/detachment-and-distance.html)
19 August 2011, 10:20 am



Ever since coming back from Sweden, I've had a lingering and persistent feeling of detachment and distance. Detachment from who I want to be, distance from what I want to be doing. Being more active, being more determined, being fitter, being more exploratory, being more progressive, making better use of my climbing time, being true to my self of exploration and inspiration. Something like Sweden (for example) was true to me, the sluggish, vague, floating along that I'm doing now is not.  

This is symptomatic of a greater feeling of detachment and distance I feel from things in the past that were equally true to me. Although I am (slowly) working towards setting myself up for a lifestyle of action including climbing and travelling (in a general sense not in an extreme climbing bum sense), I feel like I'm in a fuzzy cocoon, in a sort of stasis while life outside goes on. While my fitness slips away unless I am totally diligent, while time passes slowly by, whilst things that have inspired me become more memory and less reality.  

This is certainly not helped by my own utterly contrary and self-inhibiting predisposition to procrastination, indecision and inaction (an aspect of me that is totally at odds with what inspires me and what is true to me), and is probably not helped by side-effects of medication I am on (which I will be looking into this autumn). It is also not as drastic as this post might imply - what I've written might seem doomily emotive, but it is a subtle niggling malaise rather than an outright angstastrophe.

I write this because it is very much (although not entirely) climbing (and training and fitness and exploring) related. And because I try to clarify my thoughts and feelings to see if anything can be done about them. And I suppose that is, apart from just doing more and keeping more active, just this (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/02/2011summary.html), which, of course, I already knew.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4319778190219178525?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: On personal challenge and personal style.
Post by: comPiler on August 24, 2011, 01:00:12 pm
On personal challenge and personal style. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/08/on-personal-challenge-and-personal.html)
23 August 2011, 10:45 am



The other day I actually tried something tricky. I didn't do it but that I actually tried it was a hopefully decreasing rarity. The route was a slanting sparse crackline up a wall that overhung 3m in 15m height. I make that 1 in 5 so 15-20 degrees overhanging. Hmmm. Bloody Scotland and it's bloody steepness. The weather was good and I'd warmed up well, I climbed up to a mid-height slopey crux and back down again. Back up, more gear, back down. Back up, somehow committed to the crux and pressed on until a metre below the top I was struggling to hang on to flat jugs just to clip gear, let alone move up. Since the finish was 45 degree slopers into flat (not incut) grass, I knew I was beat. No stropping or sulking, but in the post-route analysis I was particularly fond of the excuse of it being my "anti-style".  

This seemed obvious at the time, but in retrospect I did wonder if it was a too convenient excuse?? Surely I had done enough around Scotland that I would have tackled such steepness somewhere, and should be capable pushing my limits on it despite my fatness and weakness. Well, as it turns out, no. Definitely no. Recalling the more challenging routes I've done in Scotland looks like this:

White Meter, Loch Sloy - slab.

Chisel, Cambusbarron - just off vertical, powerful cranks but not pumpy.

Big Country Dreams, Cambusbarron - steepish but good rest between two short cruxes.

Walter Wall, Glen Nevis - just off vertical, bold with good rests.

The Fuhrer, Creag Dubh - sheer wall, good rests and good holds.

Auto De Fe, Berrymuir - okay this is very steep but short-lived and obvious gear to go for.

Captain Pugwash, Hidden Treasure Wall - vertical with a reasonable shake at the top.

Heave-Ho, Loch Tollaidh - steepish but good rest between two short cruxes.

Strip-Teaser, Loch Tollaidh - slab.

Call Of The Wild, Lochan Dubh - steepish but good rest between two short cruxes.

On The Western Skyline, Ardmair - vertical with good holds and good shakes.

Unleash The Beast, Ardmair - steep but some resting jams and obvious gear.

Where on this list does it say 15 degree overhanging stamina routes with no rests?? Hmmmm?? It doesn't. Because I don't do them, not at my limit anyway. I'm not good at them, I don't suit them, and although I aspire to be a well rounded climber, such routes are not really suitable to push myself on. So I need to get on some challenging routes that are my style, as well as doing more stamina training. Play to your strengths, work your weaknesses...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2070826071517498679?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fultonius on August 24, 2011, 01:13:50 pm
What was this Fiendishly (un)fiendish route?  Sounds like fun!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on August 24, 2011, 07:16:58 pm
Stone The Crows, Rosehearty.
Title: Ramping it up a bit at Ratho.
Post by: comPiler on August 31, 2011, 01:00:26 am
Ramping it up a bit at Ratho. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/08/ramping-it-up-bit-at-ratho.html)
28 August 2011, 6:03 pm



The previous trip was a weekend in Aberdeen. Good wee trip....but....fuck me it is a long long time since I got to proper climbing areas. Will there be a chance to get to Lewis, Skye, Wester Ross, Ardnamurchan, and back to Creag Dubh and Glen Nevis?? A good two months of late summer / autumn, often the best time the year after April/May......seems so feasible on paper, but I have fuck all hope. Really a dismal summer.

However there was a slight respite in the dismality of my water-treading non-progression (Why progression? Why not just potter on? Because progressing is fun and pleasurable and interesting by taking you to new areas of climbs and your climbing and seeing what happens, that's fucking why...). I got to Ratho one evening with the intention of climbing in the quarry. It was warm and still and moist. Usually a good excuse to go to the wall itself, but Simon was syked for outside and that seemed fair enough. After a wee warm up or two, I led a cool route up the main wall. Just a bit trickier than my usual punteering, but it required some committment and calming myself in the conditions - including sweating away and staying pumped despite being on a good ledge. Dropping a rope down revealed the face was - you guessed it - gently overhanging. So much for Scottish wall climbing!!

The upshot of all this is to confirm my previous post that I can actually do okay on climbs that suit me well. And that I'm now rather syked for more of that!!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2637627657761872701?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Wankshitting hidden holds at Weem.
Post by: comPiler on August 31, 2011, 01:00:26 am
Wankshitting hidden holds at Weem. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/08/wankshitting-hidden-holds-at-weem.html)
30 August 2011, 6:30 pm



A free day and a decent forecast and two syked partners. I was keen to get somewhere either new and exploratory or with some rad challenges to get involved with. But the team-of-three-ness and a slow start precluded that, and Weem seemed suitable to keep the momentum going with convenient logistics (although it is a bloody hour and 40 minutes from Glasgow even with the new super-awesome fully open M80).  

THe Secret Garden crag certainly is secretive, and the disorientating maze of rhodedndron (sp!) carnage and uselessly vague guidebook instructions made us glad of our personal tour guide Simon to lead the way, albeit sans requisitory machete. Once at the crag it was a pretty good day ticking almost all of it. I felt pretty fine on the trickier routes, and the blind and balancy schist is fairly relevant training.

The one that got away, well you'll never guess from the title, but it had a hidden fucking hold. I was up and down over this big roof so many times. Lots of holds, that soon ran out and ended up in the wrong place to pull over on some flat sloper notch thing. So many times trying to get the seemingly suitable hand on that hold. One final lunge for it it, one slump on the rope, one brief glance of the hidden slot on the right side of the hold, one piss-easy graunch over the lip. One small tourettical burst of swearing....for about 10 minutes. Ah well. Cheating fucking route ;)

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1306920362928330498?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Death or glory at Dunkeld.
Post by: comPiler on September 01, 2011, 01:00:06 pm
Death or glory at Dunkeld. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/09/death-or-glory-at-dunkeld.html)
1 September 2011, 8:00 am



Me: So, should I do Rat Race then??

Andy: *stares*....I'm not saying anything, it's a great route though.

Me: Yeah, well, I'm syked!!

- usual faffing gearing up chalk basting ensues -

Me: Okay cool I'm going to go for it.

Andy: Yeah, that's the stuff, death or glory!

Me: *snorts*....More like slumping on the gear sulking, or glory!

- usual battling gear fiddling and panicking ensues as I'm trying to get into the so-called rest niche -

Me: Shit, these holds are shit!!

- one move up -

Me: Shit that's it I'm dead, I'm dead.

- etc etc -

In my defence, I kinda meant dead as in when the school bully threatens you at lunchtime "Jenkins you little scrote, you're gonna be so dead after school", rather than actually dead dead. The threat of slithering down with negative dignity to safely slump on the adequate gear was more real, but being pumped and sweaty and stressed, it was enough of a threat!

Also in my defence, I fiddled in some closer gear, committed to the squirm into the niche, soundly and profanely berated the guidebook for implying the sloping cramped body-trashing static grovel was anything like a "good no hands rest", but used it anyway. Transferred the arm pump to all over body pump, thrutched upwards into some sort of normality, did the slabby bit and the roof bit and yeah did the damn climb. Bit epic but very cool and worth the effort. Glory, of a sort ;).

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-3138274946983046842?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on September 01, 2011, 01:10:48 pm
Sounds like fun  :-\

Think you should probably do this there though

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=45969 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=45969)

 ;D
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 01, 2011, 02:01:04 pm
LOL. Bit out of my league but you'd never know.

Like you'd know anything about FUN in climbing you myopic grade-chasing work-ethic fetishist!!  :alien:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on September 01, 2011, 03:08:42 pm
If you're having fun you're just bouldering :tease:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 01, 2011, 04:39:58 pm
And if you're just bouldering, you're wasting valuable training time when you could be doing thousands of repetitive laps on big hold circuits as part of Tommy's Authorised Plan  :P
Title: Close Call at Callerhues
Post by: comPiler on September 05, 2011, 01:00:09 pm
Close Call at Callerhues (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/09/close-call-at-callerhues.html)
5 September 2011, 9:04 am



What a great wee crag Callerhues is. Even by Northumberland standards it's off the radar - well away from the famed and overused Bowden and Kyloe, guarded by a long-ish walk-in, sitting in splendid isolation on the expansive and exposed moorland, revelling in any sun and breeze that passes it way. Fewer climbers pass it's way, and so miss out on aesthetically featured sandstone and many varied and classic micro-routes whose small size belies their intensity, where an 8m route will have a full 8m of quality climbing from cranking off the ground on perky rugosities to teetering over the rounded top on subtle seams.

I passed it's way on Sunday, and got to sample a bit more climbing than on my first visit in 2003. Neil and Simon got involved with some funky sketchy HVSes and E1s that used to be mere VSes, we all did Weeping Fingers (I was chuffed with how smoothly it went), I did Tossing The Wobbler (above) without much of a wobbler. The actual wobbler and close call came on Rice Krispies later in the day. This steep sheer crunchy wall, home to two bold and intimidating routes, had inspired me previously but seemed out of my reach. Closer inspection revealed protection potential and ignited my inspiration, so I gave the route a try. A lot of ferocious crimping and downclimbing got some seemingly adequate gear blindly placed. And thence I climbed....

In a rare moment of confidence and committment, I just went for it. Crimped past the gear, crimped leftwards above it, crimped into an impasse at the top. Having checked out the finishing flutings, I just went for them too. Got a hand over, it felt okay, but as soon as I tried to move a foot, I started sliding. Shit I'm actually going to fall....Now the gear seemed okay but it was placed blind and it wasn't that far to the starting boulder below. In that flash of sliding, I felt....okayish....but still nervous, I was definitely falling and not pussying out. But in that moment, I did manage to pussy out, of a sort. I flicked a foot over into an adjacent chimney sidewall and got in balance. I escaped, didn't fall, and didn't do the route despite all the committment and having a hand on the top.

A close call to falling, but also a close call to doing the route. An inch further on the fluting and I could have held it, got my foot up and pulled over. A few inches further from the sidewall and I would have fallen.  

I think this will haunt me for a while. I was really pleased that I committed and really excited going for the moves without inhibition. It was unusual to actually be falling off, even if I escaped that actual fall. It was frustrating to be that close. It is confusing to have so little to learn - I could have done a bit better but there's no real lesson there, other than sometimes you just miss out.  

Still, I engaged in the route and there's still more to go back for at Callerhues ;).

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1022744866180306640?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Aberdeen Antics.
Post by: comPiler on September 12, 2011, 01:00:25 am
Aberdeen Antics. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/09/aberdeen-antics.html)
11 September 2011, 6:03 pm



I had a couple of rather anticful days in Aberdeen recently (yet a-bloody-gain the usual Plan B when the west was too sodding sodden). Drove up one morning, climbed at South Cove, Long Slough and Red Rocks, visited Atlas and Dido errrr I mean bRad and Meme and had a nice time hanging out and chatting shit, then then next day climbed at Earnsheugh and Rock Band Cliff, and drove home. A pretty good surgical strike, doing another challenging but ultimately amenable (and excellent) route Cirrhosis at South Cove, and firmly detonating my long overripe Earnsheugh cherry with quickdraw gobbling single pitch ascents of Death Cap, Bat's Belfry, Pterodactyl and Weird Sister between Geoff and I.

Why do I seem to end up at Aberdeen so much?? And given that is rather easily answerable (weather, friends - the area has good ones of both of those - and a reasonably pleasant drive up), why do I persist in being inspired by the climbing there given it is a birdy, greasy, obtuse, highly local-centric mishmash of stupidly steep schist and grubbily granular granite that is often lacking in line or height and tries to make up for it in general discomfort?? Well despite all of those objective facts, it does have it's charms - variety, accessibility, distinctiveness of rock, and if you get it right, pretty rewarding climbing. I often struggle to deal with it, particularly the angle and conditions, but there is always plenty to persist with, and when the persistence pays off it is rather fun - as this trip was.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-7407926152957348302?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: The Dismal End.
Post by: comPiler on September 13, 2011, 07:00:05 pm
The Dismal End. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/09/dismal-end.html)
13 September 2011, 8:43 am



It is now mid-September, the definitive, quintessential, Indian Summer time. When the showery frustration and occasional mugginess of July and August give way to the settled mellow warmth of early Autumn, when the crags have slowly but finally dried and seepage is at bay, when the midges are satisfyingly dying out, when the second great weather window of the year opens and allows some of the best climbing times.

As I write this, the tail end of a fucking HURRICANE is ripping through Glasgow like a cataclysmic expulsion of weather god diarrhoea, spraying 5cm deep torrents of rain on 70mph gusting winds. Oh but don't worry, there is a good weather window coming for a couple of days.....and then it's straight back to pissing SHIT again.

The dismal end to a dismal summer that never even started. A summer where everything seemed deceptively stacked in my favour: Last year felt like a recovery year from DVTs, this felt like a year where I was going to really get into climbing and progress and enjoy. I had plentiful and diverse inspiration for further exploration and nearer challenges. Following last years's dabblings, I had varied and succinct places to visit: A week on Lewis, long weekends in Skye, Caithness and Ardnamurchan, weekends at Glen Nevis and Creag Dubh - remarkably little to ask for an entire summer in which I had plenty of time. I also had - eventually - plenty of keen partners to explore with.

Time. Inspiration. Fitness. Plans. Partners.

All meaning fuck all without any reliable weather (since April, apart from that couple of weeks in July).

Some people seem to get berateful or bemused at my dismay with this dismality. "But it's Scotland, what do you expect??" Well I expect something better than the coldest summer in Scotland since 1993....a climbing contact said it had been the wettest summer in Fort William for 25 years and given the astronomical amount of aborted attempts to meet up and climb, I believe her.

If I was only into going to the gym, training at the climbing wall, pottering on local crags, going swimming, painting toy soldiers, listening to drum and bass and techno and metal, playing computer games, playing pool, hanging out in cafes and occasionally restaurants, chatting shit online and offline etc etc, then SURE the weather wouldn't be a problem... But I'm not - I'm also, and mostly, and genuinely, into exploring crags all over the country and beyond. Exploration which requires more than the occasional dry afternoon to justify the journey and punishing petrol prices.

So, yes, this really does suck for someone with my tastes and inspirations. It sucks for all of us climbers. I hope the suckage comes to an end soon, with at least some respite.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8382697695898189775?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Northumberland Nibblings.
Post by: comPiler on September 16, 2011, 07:00:08 pm
Northumberland Nibblings. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/09/northumberland-nibblings.html)
16 September 2011, 11:30 am



In that meagre 2 day weather window I mentioned before, I got down to Northumberland to do a bit more exploring. Day 1 was still blowing a gale so it was suitable to explore somewhere in the woods. No, not Kyloe although that is very good for routes and I've done some really nice climbs (still need to get High T in good condition). But rather the distinctly obscure Callaly crag, recently micro-popularised by Beastmaker (http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/search/label/callaly) repeating The Young (http://marksavagephotography.blogspot.com/2010/11/dan-varian-repeats-young-andy-moir-on.html), which is indeed a stunning bit of rock and really should be on every hardcore boulderer's ticklist. The only thing hardcore about me is my taste in techno (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uM5bWYWbCuE), so we stuck to the easier routes which despite being short and esoteric offered pretty intense climbing on good rock. After a couple of spicy routes on the upper block, I cleaned The Auld for Ewan to climb, he cleaned Family Affair for me to get onto the initial ledge, find the lone gear placement was out of reach and the move was too hard, so that one got away.

Day 2 was not blowing a gale but was still pretty good weather so it was suitable to explore somewhere exposed, or so we thought. Linshields One was exposed to the backdrop of military training, as we conveniently missed the red flags at the Otterburn range so spent the day climbing to the soundtrack of artillery and small arms fire :D. Curiously it was under-exposed to the wind so we did have to battle midgies and sweatiness a bit, but it was worth the effort as Ewan did a couple of spicey little routes and I managed to tackle Stealth and Mirage, two tasty little slab climbs that I think I'd seen photos of years ago. Both used the same collection of gear and it was arguably the biggest Cluster Of Bollox ((c) Pylon King 2003) that I've ever placed. The beta is:

Ballnut size 2 in shallow slot.

Ballnut size 1 in shallower slot.

RP 0, directional, in tiny seam.

HB 0, directional, in tiny seam.

Camalot C3 size 1 in very shallow down-facing seam.

RPs 4 and 5 stacked together in small borehole pocket.

With climbing gear 6 wrongs can make a right, although it was a rather tentative right whose veracity was best left untested, so it took a while to commit to both routes, but was fun when I did so.

Definitely up for more County action over the winter. I've only got one more esoteric place to explore - Howlerhirst - and then it's back to mixing and matching all over the place, I might even go to some honeypot crags ;).

P.S. Just discovered that blogspot have switched to the stupid pointless user-unfriendly slideshow style photo display bollox. Will have to make sure in future that whatever pictures I post just use a normal link or are full size anyway. Bleh.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-7296462508804687151?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Rude awakening at Rothley.
Post by: comPiler on September 26, 2011, 01:00:05 pm
Rude awakening at Rothley. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/09/rude-awakening-at-rothley.html)
23 September 2011, 4:40 pm



Had another day down in The County the other week. Rothley is a fuck of a long way for a single day, especially when the 6 hour round trip involves a gripping emergency stop + swerve on the M8 (not my fault), a detour avoiding a 1 hour gridlock, the death of my MAF sensor yet-a-fucking-gain (and associated panic attack until I realised what the problem was), and finally some airtime (my fault) off a stealth hummock on the road by Rothley (in the grand tradition of Northumberland roads being very straight left/right, but a lot less straight up/down.

Anyway once at the crag I managed to calm down enough to do a bit of climbing. The plan had been to combine routes (which I was syked for) with bouldering (which B was syked for). In retrospect this turned out to be a very good plan as we got so trashed bouldering we left while it was still light, shocking. So mixing in some routes would have been a good use of the time and climbing / skin-loss balance. As it was it was too sodding windy to climb routes particularly on the more delicate fare that awaits once you've done the excellent Rothley Crack.

That same wind made it good conditions for bouldering, which was nice. A steady circuit was order of the day, suitable for the general levels of punteering involved and to get used to bouldering and the rock again. That rock being particularly harsh for Northumberland, more akin to a crozzly featured gritstone than the finger-caressing finer grain further North. So that was a bit of a shock to the system, as was feeling errr fat and weak. Why am I still surprised at that?? Well I wasn't really....more just inspired to get stronger, which is nice.

I am syked for the Climbing Academy Glasgow to open (bloody awful headache colours and bloody awful Core holds and all - it will still be great to have somewhere to get beasted bouldering on a whim). I am syked for more exploration over winter. But I am syked to push myself projecting problems sooner this year. Last year I explored lots of easy circuits earlier on, and didn't start crushing (snort!) until February. This time I'll have a bit more focus I think...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5284988135974675400?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Bumbling at Bruin Cove with Birthday and BBQ Boy Brad.
Post by: comPiler on September 26, 2011, 07:00:10 pm
Bumbling at Bruin Cove with Birthday and BBQ Boy Brad. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/09/bumbling-at-bruin-cove-with-birthday.html)
26 September 2011, 11:10 am



Enough Bs?? I hope so. So this last weekend was back up for Aberdeen Brad's highly successful Birthday Event ;). The forecast was good, not too many non-climbers were going, Brad was keen to climb both days, and not even the prospect of a mostly vegetarian barbeque could put me off.

As it was the BBQ provided me with the best tick of the weekend - an entire block of bbqed Halloumi. Nom nom nom but man did I have a raging thirst the whole drive home...

Other ticks were kept low-key with the emphasis on chilled days out rather than big challenges. Day 1 was Sickle Row, a nice sunny spot, I was knackered from a few night's bad sleep (including my cunning plan of preparing for the Rothley single day mission by staying up late playing Starcraft2 hurrrrr) so stuck to mid-grade mileage. Day 2 was Bruin Cove, a nice sunny spot, I was totally refreshed after a great night's sleep, but to avoid hampering the BBQ plans stuck to mid-grade mileage. Both nice fun days. I did miss a bit on getting on something a bit errrr stiffer (unlike Brad and Johannes later in the evening ;)), the sense of doubt and discovery and rising to the challenge and getting into a more focused headspace to deal with it. But that can wait until next time...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2315806637521801307?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Howlerhirst Heat, Simonside Shade.
Post by: comPiler on October 01, 2011, 07:00:06 pm
Howlerhirst Heat, Simonside Shade. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/10/howlerhirst-heat-simonside-shade.html)
1 October 2011, 11:01 am



Another flying Northumberland visit, thanks to the Indian Autumn heatwave that ensures most of England is utterly glorious and all of West Scotland is utterly torrentially foul (obviously as I type this it is pissing down in Glasgow).

(Hot) Howlerhirst is relatively low altitude, rarely climbed on, and basks in the sun all day - yet the climbing conditions were pretty good. (Shady) Simonside is high up on the plateau, much more popular, very exposed and shady - yet the climbing conditions were pretty poor. It's a curious business.

Howlerhirst is the final main tick in my Northumberland apprenticeship.  I've now been to pretty much every worthwhile and inspiring crag, big or small, honeypot or hermit-like. Like all the off-piste craglets in The County, it is really rather nice with some very worthwhile routes. The highlight being the stunningly sculpted buttress with the fearsome Guardian Angel on (and a superb, desperate, but frighteningly feasible last great problem: Think cranking up an impending wall on shallow pockets, hanging off fingertip monos placing tricams, and a wild dyno for a super-sloping top...mmmm). But the adjacent mid-grade slab has some really nice routes on it too, well worth a visit (see below)

Simonside is....well it's cool. I have now been to the two main crags on the Simonside Plateau (SS and Ravensheugh) each as many times as I've been to Kyloe Out and Back Bowden. How's that for dedication?? Obviously the quality of these crags repays multiple visits, and more obviously that quality would improve if they got the traffic they deserved, as it is a bit frustrating seeing some great lines suffering from neglect whilst the Kyloes and Bowdens suffer from narrow-minded overuse. This was the case for previous visits and this visit, but I cleaned off a couple of mid-grade routes for Ewan, and I led a couple of great little arete climbs (Gillette being scarcely bolder and infinitely better than the unjustifiably more popular The Stoic - myopic honeypotting even up here!!). I was defeated by Over The Edge, the desperate solo start being too much in the curious conditions.

Hmmmm actually....I think Ewan mentioned going to Harehope Canyon....ah well....:)

Photos (can't be fucked bypassing blogspot's shitty new slideshow crap, sorry). PLEASE POST COMMENTS ON WHICH OF THE FIRST FOUR IS MOST WORTHWHILE THX:

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Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: grimer on October 01, 2011, 07:44:50 pm
I'd love to do Guardian Angel.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on October 02, 2011, 09:24:16 am
It's a lovely bit of rock. It doesn't look quite as epic in the flesh as the cruxy bits are shortlived, although the landing is poor. That buttress would be great for snowballing as it could get some big drifts...
Title: Three things...
Post by: comPiler on October 03, 2011, 01:00:10 pm
Three things... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/10/three-things.html)
3 October 2011, 8:30 am



...that say it all:

1.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-spAOjFyVENQ/ToiOZSgb4nI/AAAAAAAAAlI/hAui9IdOmjE/s1600/cuntingweather.jpg)


2.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6KFZ96bNV6k/ToiOZjjulgI/AAAAAAAAAlQ/FHI4MMz6zbU/s1600/fuckingweather.jpg)


3. (An oldie but totally timeless)



DARK MAVIS says:

FUCKING BOLLOX BRITISH FUCKING CUNT WEATHER

DARK MAVIS says:

FUCKING WET ALL NEXT CUNTING WEEK

DARK MAVIS says:

CCCCUUUUUNNTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT

Fiend says:

they should quote that on  metcheck



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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: ShortRound on October 04, 2011, 01:34:55 pm
 :lol:

Nice.
Title: Bouldering.
Post by: comPiler on October 13, 2011, 01:00:17 am
Bouldering. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/10/bouldering.html)
11 October 2011, 8:05 pm



Although I am still syked to get as much trad as possible before it becomes too bitterly baltic (i.e. WET I suspect) this winter (still trying to play catch up over the missed summer that never happened), now the nights are drawing in I am getting my bouldering syke and thus plans and inspirations up. Hopefully the quick hit nature of bouldering, lack of reliance on partners or seepage drying up, and lack of midgies will allow some good varied days out. I want to start pushing myself earlier this winter, having done enough exploration last winter to get some good ideas (and thus a vague ticklist up). As usual my ideas are my own inspiration rather than "essential ticks", and remain to be edited, added to, or deleted as I explore around and play on stuff.

So to remind myself, wishlist as follows:

Pump Up The Jam, various - Skye

Razorback, Romancing The Stone, various - Reiff

Various - Reiff In The Woods

The Ship Boulder - Torridon

Blankety Blank - Torridon

Big Lebowski, The Dude - Ruthven Boulder

Brin Done Before - Brin Rock

Various - Cammachmore

Deep Breath Arete, Hamish, various - Glen Nevis

Pyramid Lip - Glen Ogle

??? - Loch Sloy

Swap Meet, Ace Of Spades, various - Glen Croe

The Bottler - Loch Lomond

Nameless Pimp Toy - Stronlachlar

The Chop - Weem

Various Corrie Boulders - Arran

Suck My Woolie, Snow White - Garheugh

Fingers crossed! Better get training eh....

Any I've forgotten post em in the comments....

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Something Terrible
Post by: comPiler on October 21, 2011, 07:00:19 pm
Something Terrible (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/10/something-terrible.html)
20 October 2011, 10:51 am



Obviously if you harm others, that is something terrible. I don't consciously harm others by my actions - despite plenty of desire and temptation (overtaking lane morons, I'm looking at you).

But I sometimes do terrible things. If you take away harming others, what else is there?? Harming yourself: through self-neglect, through self-inhibition, through wasting time and a finite life, through not being true to oneself, through not doing the right things to benefit oneself.

Not harm by direct action, but harm by a lack of action. A lack of positive, rewarding, satisfying, healthy, beneficial, true-to-self action.

I do this and thus I do something terrible. This is....part of my personality. A flaw in me, in an otherwise fairly smart, capable, and inspired being. It has always been this way and for many years I have been working on overcoming it - maybe in many years time I will overcome it!

Obviously this applies to climbing very much, as an inspired passion that involves action and training and input and effort. I'm posting this because it was brought home recently, after a couple of weeks of doing fuck all and feeling pretty unhappy with myself, I went to the wall and was fat and weak but at least I was doing something. Listening to that tasty track above on the drive home highlighted that at I wasn't doing something terrible that evening...

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Shaftoe Solitude.
Post by: comPiler on October 24, 2011, 07:00:08 pm
Shaftoe Solitude. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/10/shaftoe-solitude.html)
24 October 2011, 10:48 am



Scottish winter season has started - well I could see snow on the distant Lomond hills, and the chance of any reliable last minute trad reprieve is diminishing. So it's time to head down to the B&Q timber yard to construct the biggest possible bargepole that I won't be touching any snow plodding gully bashing bollox with.

So, yay, bouldering season. God bouldering is soooooo much easier than trad. Less time required, less organisation needed. Less stress, less mental challenge. Less seepage, less crag logistics. Okay so conditions are an issue, but getting good friction is scarcely more challenging than getting some sodding dryness. Less reliance on keen friendly partners who are a Scottish scarcity, too.

To demonstrate the latter, I nipped off down to Northumberland for the weekend. I'd rather be getting immersed in Scottish bouldering and have nipped to Glen Nevis but 5 days constant torrential rain (WTFingF) stopped that idea before it could fart out of my brain. So a misanthropic mission to T'County it was. The forecast was good and the bunkhouse is good and the choice of venues and problems is good.

Shaftoe is possibly the most extensive bouldering venue in T'County and somewhere I definitely needed to explore, so I combined a good meander around most of the main areas, with the occasional pause to do the occasional problem, the most fun being the hugely overgraded classic wee Slapper. There's plenty of good varied lines there with usually excellent landings in a good open situation - one for return visits, especially in colder conditions as it was rather balmy there.

The next day of course started with constant rain. Hurrah :(. After a bit of driving around to confirm the day's planned venues were definitely out, I ended up popping past Back Bowden on the off-chance the roofed over bits were dry. It was raining there too when I parked up but after disappearing for a stroll and a mighty log, I felt perkier and the breeze seemed promisingly fresh so I continued the stroll to the crag. Despite it's "unusually sheltered location" that same breeze was blowing a bloody gale and lo the rain stopped and I bouldered some more until my fingertips said "fuck this shit" and I left and drove home.

Video soon...

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Yes Men.
Post by: comPiler on October 27, 2011, 07:00:04 pm
Yes Men. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/10/yes-men.html)
27 October 2011, 3:51 pm



I went to the new Climbing Academy wall the other day. It is rather good: The size is epic and the layout, lighting and use of space are all great. The problems seemed good and nicely varied, the music when I was there was good (chilled techno and breakbeat - spot on), and the staff are friendly. I haven't tried the coffee but I have high hopes.

There is one downside though - some of the holds. Waaaay before the wall was finished, I commented on the TCA's Facebook page to please use awesome holds like Bleaustone, HRT and Axis, and not rubbish ones like Core and Holdz. I had no idea what they would put on, only that I wanted such an impressive wall to have nice feeling holds to train on. Well the wall is full of Core, Holdz, and Beacon. Core have improved a fair bit, they are not so over-designed and have some nice textures and slopers, so that's all good and I admit I was wrong to dismiss them. Beacon are fine normal holds. Holdz are as bad as ever. The general texture is abrasive and inferior to other holds, the knobbly features are pointless and less comfortable, and the grit-textured edges are really, really bad. These must be the worst holds I've pulled on:

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M8RbKdJ1blU/TqmHScbjUjI/AAAAAAAAAmU/Uhn27klqXMo/s1600/nopain.jpg)

Anyway. That's not so interesting. Some problems are spoilt by the Holdz, and it would be better if better holds were used. The rest of it is great and I will be training there a lot and be a good paying customer.

What is interesting is the Yes Men phenomenon that arises when a big exciting project appears in the climbing world and has public areas to promote their project and allow customers to comment on it. Praise is duly accepted but criticism often isn't - even when it's in the context of a lot of praise (praise which is tabloidly ignored in the reaction to the criticism). It's not just the project owners (who you expect to have reasonable answers or acceptance of criticism) but other people who seem to have elevated such projects to sacred cow status where those projects can do no wrong and have no flaws - and certainly not have anyone pointing out those flaws. There's a definite "gang" feel to some of the reactions - reactions not just to myself but to other people who have criticisms (such as student prices).

Really if the climbing was so close-knit and looking after it's own, it could do a lot more to be inclusive and welcoming of all climbers.

This reminds me exactly of when the Climbing Works opened, and once again I praised many areas of the wall whilst criticising some of the holds (the ridiculous embedded golf ball / light bulb holds) and how dirty/chalky the holds got. Once again the Yes Men dismissed the possibility that anyone could criticise anything about the wall. A while later the ridiculous holds disappeared and brushes on sticks and notices to clean holds appeared and a great wall became a bit greater because those previously-criticised-but-dismissed issues were improved...

Anyway, fingers crossed I'm off down to T'County again this weekend, and back training at TCA early next week.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Misanthrope Mission #2
Post by: comPiler on October 30, 2011, 12:00:22 pm
Misanthrope Mission #2 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/10/misanthrope-mission-2.html)
30 October 2011, 9:20 am



Well it will save me thinking of yet more alliterative bloody titles. This time I went to T'Lakes and T'County in a round trip via the Once Brewed Youth Hostel (and the adjacent Once Brewed Pub which only served Twice Brewed Beer, WTF). Several hundred miles and several hours of driving and I got up.....one problem. Huh.

Gouther: Glorious weather on the day. Gouther was in the shade and rather dank, which precluded topping out on most problems. Not a problem for me as being shite and weak precluded getting anywhere near the top on most problems. I warmed up doing Trev's Traverse in a few goes, this is a weird problem which feels very trad. I then spent so long failing on other stuff I didn't get the chance to fail on the rad-looking J Mascis. But I've had a good recce and will be back. Team Buys were at the crag with Gav and Mike Hutton. They're a nice pair, very affable.

Queen's Crag: Dry and fresh on the walk-in, via lots of cows who were doing some very fine mooing. I like cows. Got to the crag. It started pissing down. I had a good recce. Eventually the rain abated enough for me to....walk out as there was no bloody chance of it drying. Still it looks cool. Lots of aretes and a few good faces. Syked to get back.

Hepburn: Dry and fresh on the walk-in. Wanted to check out the lesser-known problems and after some of the worst boulder/heather bashing ever, ended up at Queen Bee Buttress. Oooh there's a cool looking wall/rib above a good landing, starting from a nice mono....And the mono is FULL OF FUCKING BEES. Stomped over to Titanic Arete. I tried this before and couldn't do it. I tried it again and couldn't do it. I've fallen out with this problem. There was a team working hard stuff and a cool-looking project. I went over to watch and their cute wee terrier thing jumped on my lap and wouldn't leave. This was more fun than Titanic Arete so I sacked off that problem. And pretty soon sacked off the day entirely before I risked actually getting up a problem (not that big a risk really).

Sometimes on these trips there just seems to be far more rain and walking and bees and cows than actual climbing. This is a cow:

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Coigach Clambering.
Post by: comPiler on November 07, 2011, 06:00:05 pm
Coigach Clambering. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/11/coigach-clambering.html)
7 November 2011, 11:52 am



So it is now November. The days are a lot shorter, climbing time is limited, the temperatures are cold and options restricted. I'm busier and my time is limited and I've given up on getting up North and getting more trad done. So what the fuck does the weather do?? Get totally awesome in the North West. A whole fucking summer waiting for half-decent half-dryness, and now it's pretty much past the point of pointless, there's several days of sunshine up there.

FUUUUUUuuuuuUUUUUUCCCKK!!!

Still as mocking as this respite is, it is respite nonetheless and thus must be as vigorously seized as one would seize a passing cat who is hoping to sneak by without getting pounced on and having it's tummy mercilessly rubbed and nuzzled. Given the time of year it was mostly seized and sandwiched between bouldering pads. Just like the passing cat should be...

The pre-match friendly was at the Inchbae Erratics. These are indeed erratic but then again isn't most of Scottish bouldering. This area had the usual pre-requisites of absent approach times and a useless map, but also curiously accurate grades and definitely deserved star ratings. The erratics are scattered over an unerratically and consistently boggy plateau, and although spread out, the problems are really rather good - strong lines and good moves. It could do with more development and is a good stopping off point en-route to Ullapool.


Inchbae!

The main game took place firstly at Reiff In The Woods. It was supposed to be at Reiff By The Sea but this was hampered by that same sea leaving landing pools and a slight lingering damp. There were hardy souls climbing trad there, which was nice to see. RITW is a classy little spot - roadside but with stunning views, sheltered in trees yet exposed to sun and breeze, jumbled together but with plenty of strong lines. Indeed the lines were stronger than I was!! We made little headway on anything challenging until trying the cool "spot from sitting in the car" thin wall/arete. After a few goes we were both close and it was almost in the bag - and after a few goes the "unbroken sunshine" forecast pissed on us and it was almost dusk so no chance of it drying, arse bollox knob etc etc.

Rainbow. Unfortunately a main ingredient is rain.

Sunset prettiness on Stac Pollaidh.

Secondly for variety it was the well-reputed Highland sport venue of Goat Crag, one of the triptych of classic animal-themed Scottish sport climbing crags. I still think it would be great on a summer's day to catch the morning sun at The Elephant, shelter from the afternoon heat at The Camel, and finish basking in the evening at Goat Crag. Or maybe the other way around to catch the shade. Anyway, the weather was great at Goat Crag, utterly unlike my climbing. Not only am I fat and weak, after a mere few weeks away from roped climbing, I'm back to utter gaylordistic cowardom, arse bollox knob etc etc.

Even the bumbly warmups can be photogenic.

A much better view than looking inward to my climbing.

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Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: robertostallioni on November 07, 2011, 09:25:53 pm
That last photo is great.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 09, 2011, 11:33:29 am
Thank you. The light was quite tricky. The UFO looked better in real life!! It is a beautiful area...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: andy_e on November 09, 2011, 11:54:49 am
Stac Polly looks beautiful as always!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 09, 2011, 12:05:11 pm
Sure does. Still want to do a route on it sometime.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 09, 2011, 03:48:45 pm
It is always spectacular. I wouldn't manage the 45° walk-in though :S
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 09, 2011, 04:01:58 pm
TBH in my current state I'm not sure i would either.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 09, 2011, 05:01:16 pm
We need Bonjoy's idea to have a catapult to fire the rucksacs up there  :smartass:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 09, 2011, 05:53:51 pm
trebuchet you can hook up to car to wind up.
Title: Misanthrope Mission 3.
Post by: comPiler on November 09, 2011, 06:00:07 pm
Misanthrope Mission 3. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/11/misanthrope-mission-3.html)
9 November 2011, 5:04 pm



More mockery - I spent the entire summer trying to get up to Glen Nevis to climb with a Canadian lass who was staying in Fort William and keen to sample the local cragging. After numerous Facebook exchanges, Metoffice scrutinising / swearing at, and last minute texts, it never happened. Come November, she's long gone, most tradding partners are winding down for the winter, seepage is creeping through, and it's getting a bit too chilly. So yeah the weather is good and dry for several days.  

FUUUUUUuuuuuUUUUUUCCCKK!!!

Still, I made it up on the last dry day, and although frustrated by being able to see the mighty Wave Buttress but not climb on it, I did get some good bouldering exploration. The forecast was to be foggy, still, and cold air. It turned out to be clear, windy, and mild air. No worries about condensation and pretty good nick. I recced the Polldubh boulders while waiting for my Morrison's pseudo-over-caffeinated sugary drink company energy drink to kick in, and decided they were a bit brutal to start on...

Glen Nevis youth bouldering team in training.

Instead, I thought I'd just nip across the river to Tim's Arete for a warm-up and then head back via a packed lunch. 2 precarious weir crossings, 5 hours and numerous problem attempts later, I had no skin, no energy, no chalk and no camera batteries left - Glen Nevis Southside has a lot of potential both tapped and untapped on wild and rough rock. The clip below is just a sample, I'll be back when the above factors have recharged (and it's dry again so I've got a few months to regrow skin :S).

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Glen Again.
Post by: comPiler on November 14, 2011, 12:00:09 am
Glen Again. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/11/glen-again.html)
13 November 2011, 6:05 pm



Secret Squirrel came visiting. The weather was still good (ridiculous that the Indian Summer has happened in sodding November) and she was keen for some bouldering, so we went back to Glen Nevis Southside. Still loads to explore there. Apparently there is an out-of-print guide that covers hundreds of problems in the Glen, but once across the treacherous and mildly terrifying weir crossing, the only sign of any use, chalk, or cleaning is on the 3 generally inferior problems chosen at random in Scottish Bouldering. The others have often required a good scrub to get lichen off crucial holds, and even pulling the most obvious hold off one problem - but what is underneath has been invariably good rock and good climbing so far.

We also had a fun time at the end of the day: Battling up our respective last problems in the howling wind, sporadic drizzle, ominous dusk, with little skin nor energy left, surrounded by the bleak and ominous cloud-drenched mountains, and only the threatening prospect of a nighttime the river crossing to look forward to....but still great fun just climbing :).

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Gentle Classics in Glen Croe
Post by: comPiler on November 16, 2011, 12:00:24 am
Gentle Classics in Glen Croe (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/11/gentle-classics-in-glen-croe.html)
15 November 2011, 6:26 pm



Not much to say really. All easy stuff but nice problems. I did have a look at something harder but it was cold and made my fingers hurt. The rock was in good condition but the ground was boggy and I got trenchfoot.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 16, 2011, 09:32:26 am
How long will you live in Scotland before you appreciate the benefits of a good pair of wellies?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 16, 2011, 11:47:33 am
I have them!! £8 from Decathlon. I didn't think I'd need them for the Croe roadside stuff.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 16, 2011, 11:54:38 am
I always have them in the van, and if in any doubt wear them. Been esp good for Gairloch Crags with flat marshland approaches.
Title: Fight The Power
Post by: comPiler on November 30, 2011, 06:00:09 pm
Fight The Power (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/11/fight-power.html)
30 November 2011, 12:32 pm



I can't fight the power of the weather. As predicted it crapped out spectacularly. Glasgow escaped the worst of the storms but roadside floods are becoming the norm not the exception. Needless to say I've been reduced to training at the admittedly inspiring (if frustrating in my current state) Climbing Academy, and trying to find a balance between pushing myself to slow the decline into weakness, and not injuring myself trying to haul my corpulent carcass in an upwards - or sideways - direction.

I can't fight the power of the screwy chemicals fizzing around in my mind. I've been changing some medications to try to stop the incessant weight gain I've had in recent years (no, not the Glasgow diet, as nice a deep-fried pizza is I haven't had it for months), and the short term side-effects are harsh. Anger, agitation, anxiety are currently characterising my life and inhibiting many activities - and making me feel shit about that inhibition, woohoo, stupid brain! I did have some respite over the weekend, clearing my mind with some relentless hardcore beats in the Industrial Strength Records 20th Anniversary room at Fantazia at the Arches. Dancing to gabber is waaay more productive than trying to run / walk uphill, so evidentally I need to get clubbing more. Both Youtube vids are highlights of the night :).

I can't fight the power of the stupid fucking gayflu cold I've just picked up. Although I guess I might as well get it out of the way at the moment.

Hopefully when the gayflu fucks right off and chemicals settle and the training works enough to at least achieve an equilibrium of fatness and weakness, I'll be able to get on with following some inspiration and rad trips out and about won't just become...

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Walking Corpse.
Post by: comPiler on December 05, 2011, 06:00:42 pm
Walking Corpse. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/12/walking-corpse.html)
5 December 2011, 12:34 pm



^^^ this has been me in the last few days. The gayflu has been especially gay and seasoned with lashings of a mild throat infection (feeling a bit like the Brutal Truth vocalist sounds) for the optimum blend of crappness. I've turned down wall sessions and good forecasts in the County and have been set back a good week in general logistic progress, so I feel like a walking corpse mentally too, BLUURRRGGGGHHHHH. Hopefully I'm getting over the worst and will be able to get back into things with renewed energy soon.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Misanthrope Mission 4.
Post by: comPiler on December 19, 2011, 06:00:39 pm
Misanthrope Mission 4. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/12/misanthrope-mission-4.html)
19 December 2011, 11:23 am



35 days since I last got out. Yes the weather and my gayflu (still persisting, on 2nd course of antibiotics now) have been that bad. Jesus. This mission took some effort, I really didn't feel great trying to wake up early and get going for it. So it was a late start, a LOT of driving and a bare minimum of climbing. But still good - back in touch with the purpose of winter and my purpose in life.

The forecast was good all over the County, so after much East vs. West deliberation, I decided to take advantage of the dry West and give Queen's another go. It was very crisp and bone dry....and completely snowed under there. Hmmm. I'm not having much luck with Queens! Onwards to Shaftoe which has everything facing in every direction and that worked pretty well as the sunny stuff was warm and dry and the shady stuff was cold and frozen and when the sun went down there was stuff that was cold and dry yay for friction. Before that I pottered about and recced Shaftoe South and came to the following conclusions:

Cafe Noir - worth a lead! Good line and obvious gear in a flake.

Antler And Deck - looks good and quite feasible, need mats and spotter.

Butch Cassidy - ditto.

Little and Often - crude but okay but top was iced up.

Pocket Rocket - looks crude and bland and too hard.

The cave stuff - very trad looking, best for summer power training.

Duvel - too small.

12 6c - too small and wrong on topo (shown perched over 10m drop!)

Slim Shady SS - looks good, bigger than it seems and perfect landing.

After that faffing and not climbing much I ended up in the Central Area to try to maximise the conditions on some of the sloping walls. Buford T Justice (not Belford, oops), I very nearly flashed by sheer determination but muffed my foot on the last move. Boo. I then ended up working it with the camera battery in my pants to keep it warm. That helped as I did it in the end. Despite being an eliminate it's a cool problem with some miserly slopers! Moved onto Smooth Wall, after a few goes this seemed impossible - similarly poor slimpers but this time with a bulge in the way. But! Lo and behold I worked out a foot placement and suddenly it seemed very feasible - this was exciting. Unfortunately despite getting super-close, I had to keep waiting for my skin to cool down in between attempts, and while I had the patience for that, the daylight didn't and buggered off leaving me to walk out in the pitch dark. But not before I saw a mouse scuttle across the frozen marsh beneath the wall (presumably very cold) and an owl swooping around (possibly solved the mouses coldness permanently).

So yeah. Another day with an epicly b0rked driving:sending ratio, but cool to get out at last!!

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Festive fun.
Post by: comPiler on December 28, 2011, 12:00:15 am
Festive fun. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/12/festive-fun.html)
27 December 2011, 8:56 pm



Balls to Christmas, but at least en-route South to meet with friends, family, and food, I got to briefly indulge in the fourth festive F - fun climbing. Northumberland was, as usual, the only dry place and the obvious choice. Bleak grey weather made everywhere much of a muchness, so I decided to explore esoteric Edlingham, a useful recce if nothing else. In the end I only recced the Homo Horizontalis and Whale buttresses, which was enough. The latter was dry but a bit "under-appreciated". I got to work with chalk dusting and gentle brushing and the holds started feeling good. Just as I got it clean enough, it started raining. Woo-fcuking-hoo. Homo Horizontalis turned into Homo Coweringus Shelteringus and luckily it passed. A quick romp up the Harpoon problem, a quick fiddle on the harder wall next to it, and that was enough.

The next day I visited my old haunt of the Climbing Works. It's getting very grubby but the atmosphere is good, the amount of problems is vast, they keep tweaking it and the comp wall structure is ever-fluctuating. I had a pretty good session there, which made Christmas sedentation more tolerable. I think the latter has outstayed it's welcome with me so I need to get back gymming/training/climbing ASAP.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Annus Demi-Horribilis.
Post by: comPiler on December 31, 2011, 06:00:06 pm
Annus Demi-Horribilis. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2011/12/annus-demi-horribilis.html)
31 December 2011, 11:58 am



Or should that be Anus Demi-Horribilis??

This year has been a year of two halves for me:

Part 1:

Malta - great

Later winter bouldering at Ruthven Boulder, Loch Sloy, Clashfarquar etc - very nice and satisfying

Pedriza - great

Long weekend in Mull - superb, best Scottish trip all year

Long weekend in Gairloch - very good

Long weekends in Caithness and Stranraer - good

Sweden - super-awesome

Brief trip to Creag Dubh and Camel - good

Generally maintaining an enjoyable E3 standard every trip out - pleasing

Losing a few pounds in Sweden - reassuring

Part 2:

Terrible weather all summer - suckage

No trips to Lewis / Skye / Ardnamurchan / Glen Nevis - suckage

No Indian Summer respite - suckage

A couple of decent trips to Aberdeen and local crags - pretty good

2 weeks of dry weather in November - some respite for bouldering

Increasing weight gain - very demoralising

Decreasing fitness - very demoralising

TCA opening - great training and a useful mercy

Exploring the County bouldering - good

Hard work changing medication to reduce weight gain - just plain hard

Persistent man-flu / throat/chest infection - suckage

It's pretty simple:

Good weather and trips away = good health and good spirits = right.

Terrible weather and less climbing = bad health and bad spirits = wrong.

Incidentally, my other interests have been pretty fun this year - have painted some cool figures (http://teamshambler.blogspot.com/), listened to some great drum'n'bass / hardcore / metal, and played a lot of good PC games - all of which is nice and passes the time during the incessant rain / rest days, but as fun as all those things are, they play supporting roles, not the main performance.

I've realised that the regular climbing lifestyle is not just important to me as it's the biggest inspiration to me, it's essential to me as an active lifestyle that balances out my mental and physical health issues. I am who I am and that is what's right for me.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Tunes of 2011.
Post by: comPiler on January 02, 2012, 12:00:27 am
Tunes of 2011. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/01/tunes-of-2011.html)
1 January 2012, 7:40 pm



...available on good old physical media at your chosen outlet.

Origin - Evolution Of Extinction (Entity CD)

Track of the year from album of the year by metal band of the year - the epitomy of their precise, complex, well-crafted and utterly brutal style.

Cern, Dose, & Teknik - Huntsville (Commercial Suicide Compilation CD)

Drum and bass - music that keeps on giving....and keeps spreading in ever-more diverse areas. Sticking with straight up modern techstep, this track was a real eye-opener for it's unbelievably filthy sound. Less future funk and more steampunk funk.

Donny - Something Terrible (Riot & Revolt CD)

The harder side of DnB has diversified too with the hardcore/breakcore/idm/dnb crossover being increasingly fertile ground. It often gets too mashed up for me, but when the artists blend the toughness with a straight up dnb groove, you get properly good tracks like this one.

All Shall Perish - The Past Will Haunt Us Both (This Is Where It Ends CD)

A return to form for All Shall Perish and a beautiful death metal love ballad. Which vile twats say heavy music can't have any soul or emotion??

Gridlok - Enemies Of The State (Commercial Suicide Compilation CD)

I'm not the biggest fan of the choppy offbeat steppy style of DNB, not of Gridlok's overly-bleepy production. But sometimes two wrongs make an irrefutable right in this brilliant epic industrial dnb soundtrack.

Eye-D & DJ Hidden - Battlefield (Peer-2-Peer Pressure CD)

A great, refined and interesting CD by perhaps the foremost purveyors of the gabber/dnb crossover. They bring dnb influences into awesome hardcore tracks like Hell's Basement, and hardcore influences into this very well-named piece of headbanging dnb artillery.

Bonus!!

Fuck it, can't resist including one more...

Seba - It Ain't The Weather (Commercial Suicide Compilation CD)

As diverse and and as interesting as DNB gets, sometimes you just can't beat a straight up deep dark roller. And this is a great one from the usually mellow and choppy man Seba.

And!!

In case anyone was wondering, albums of the year 2011:

Ray Keith & Bladerunner - Dub Dread 4

Origin - Entity

Eye-D & DJ Hidden - Peer 2 Peer Pressure

All Shall Perish - This Is Where It Ends

DJ Asmatik - Homicide Voltaire

Dyprax & Unexist - Disorder In Italy

DJ Distance - Dubstep All Stars 8

Torsten Kanzler & Sven Wittekind - Basstech 1

Raiden - Beton Arme

Ill Skillz - Nectar And Ambrosia

+

Any DJ mix by S.P.Y.


Go forth and sate your ears' need for awesomeness!

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Radical Changes.
Post by: comPiler on January 02, 2012, 12:00:07 pm
Radical Changes. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/01/radical-changes.html)
2 January 2012, 9:14 am



Or, radical reversion to what is right.

In the latter part of 2011 I realised my life has gone off track. See over to the left where it says "Aiming to live a lifestyle of climbing and travelling"?? A matter of necessity as well as inspiration - I think it's pretty good and harmonious that necessity and inspiration align. But I have partly been working indirectly to that path, partly tried to stick to it in difficult circumstances, and partly strayed from it. So I need to realign those straying parts to that path, for my own sanity as well as pleasure. To this aim, I have some Scottish plans...

1. Steadily up my levels of general activity and fitness training until they become habitual.

2. Keep in touch with partners and keep organised AND try to be part of an active positive scene, not just climbing but general fitness.

3. Get to somewhere interesting in late Jan (Morocco? Gibraltar?) and early April (Pfalz? Annot?).

4. Week long trip to Lewis, several days sea-cliffing in Skye, long weekend in Ardnamurchan.

5. Explore more bouldering over winter, esp: Glen Nevis, Torridon/Reiff, Skye, Carrock Fell, Queen's Crag, Shaftoe, Rothley, Simonside

6. Climb a few E5s and maybe a few F7a+s if I get my fitness back

7. Keep fit at gym, pool, and wall.

8. Lose 1 stone via the above.


...and the same general climbing lifestyle guidelines as last year...

1. Keep in touch with climbing partners regularly, promptly, and positively.

2. Prioritise plans for the most inspiring areas with like-minded partners.

3. Plan more proactively but flexibly in advance rather and last minute.

4. Get started on days out earlier to make best use of time.

5. Keep fitness training and make it a regular habit.

6. Keep eating a decent diet with small portions, less junk, more water.

7. Train stamina, finger strength, finger power, dynamism and endurance at walls.

8. Falling practise, falling practise, falling practise, falling practise.

9. Work on route reading and gear placing outdoors.

10. Stack odds in my favour with suitable weather conditions.


...the main but slight change being focusing on habits and lifestyle as much as specific factors / plans. I have a path, I need to follow it.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Misanthrope Mission #5
Post by: comPiler on January 07, 2012, 12:00:08 am
Misanthrope Mission #5 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/01/misanthrope-mission-5.html)
4 January 2012, 9:49 pm



I keep trying to not go to Shaftoe. As good as it is for bouldering - I think the best pure bouldering in the County, Bowden being fragile and limited, and Kyloe lacking in a variety of lines and mostly popular because of it's rain shelter - I do want to keep exploring. But somehow I end up back there again. This time the forecast was wind and the plan was Rothley, as although it's mostly exposed, there are some more sheltered bits and the NW-facing crag would probably benefit from some fresh air. The weather from Glasgow improved all the way down until Otterburn whereupon it turned into horizontal sleet. Nice. Thankfully a bit further it seemed to be more intermittent, but a quick drive past Rothley (almost ending up off the road scoping the crag), confirmed it had copped most of that weather. So back to sunny Shaftoe...

I worked South to Central and in the grand tradition of things ticked an entire problem. Yes, a whole one, all by myself (well, it IS a Misanthrope Mission...). Well. A whole problem if you're following the true line of least resistance and natural starting holds, as per the video above. Apparently some people start it a move lower and climb into the good starting holds for a V6 eliminate, but balls to that. Of more interest is a left-hand finish climbing the arete, this looks rather appealing but without any details of difficulties, I didn't want to waste skin trying it, yet. Instead I stomped over to Central and wasted skin trying Smooth Wall again. This time I know all the numbers AND the conditions are suitable baltic, but a slight dampness on the upper holds and a general seizing up of my body in the arctic breeze has me snatching defeat from the jaws of truce. A quick look at Western Edges problems and it is far too cold even by my standards so the long drive home again, thank fuck for awesome drum and bass and metal CDs :).

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: Radical Changes.
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 07, 2012, 07:00:03 am

6. Keep eating a decent diet with small portions, less junk


simple - just don't go large...



that'll be £132.87 nutritional consultancy fee (after your Life Coach frequent flier discount)
Title: Random Bollox.
Post by: comPiler on January 20, 2012, 12:00:06 pm
Random Bollox. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/01/random-bollox.html)
20 January 2012, 10:55 am



Not much has been happening recently.

There was a brief period of great weather which I completely missed because I was busy with stuff. Suckage.

I had a good session at Ratho where I did okay despite not having done routes for ages - although I was demoralised that I'm now such a hideous bloater I struggled to fit into my indoor harness :(.

I had a good session at TCA where I polished off several good and mis-graded problems on the comp wall. Curiously my progress over the previous session was more due to technique rather than strength, but I found I was able to keep cranking over a long-ish session, which was nice :).

I then had most of a week off climbing and exercise. Terrible. I can't afford to do that AT ALL. Came back to a session at the revamped and average-but-considerably-less-terrible-than-before GCC, and was weak, tired, and cross. Gym the next day helped a bit. I HAVE to keep moving.

Thankfully there is some movement planned: On Saturday morning Tris and I are flying to Malaga to go climbing at San Bartolo, funky looking sandstone (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=188519) near Gibraltar. Not a major destination but it looks nice for a few days and I really need to get away!! I need inspiration, activity, climbing mileage, and hopefully some dry fucking weather!! So, yay.

Oh and I got a cool new breakage drum'n'bass CD recently:

Nice variety of chopped up beats on this. I wasn't so taken at first, but have been playing it a lot. Ruff!

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Gibbage 1 & 2.
Post by: comPiler on January 23, 2012, 12:00:14 am
Gibbage 1 & 2. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/01/gibbage-1-2.html)
22 January 2012, 8:44 pm



Gibbage because we are climbing near Gibraltar. Not on Gibraltar, it's full of monkeys and probably tourists too. According to the woman in the hostel we're staying in, we should be tourists too, day-tripping to Morocco, visiting quaint towns in the mountai......FUCK THAT SHIT WE'RE HERE TO CLIMB.

Yesterday was travelling day. Up at 5 to get an early flight to Malaga. Really that should have demanded an early night but I stayed up playing Skyrim (level 64 h2h/magic Orc, 530,000 gold, 186 dungeons cleared, I hope no-one cares about that) and then faffing around printing out info for crags near Malaga to get something done before heading to Algeciras base camp in the evening. The latter turned out to be useful as Mijas was an idea stop-off: 10 mins off the motorway, roadside cragging, sun and shade and a good variety of the usual Euro-lime bollox. 5 leads each certainly made good use of the afternoon. However the lack of sleep and food hit me like a ton of turd and I ended up feeling exhausted to the point of feverish. Add in an extra 1 hour 20 minute nightmare just trying to find the hostel, and epic faffage with parking and organisation and I was so relieved to pass out into sleep.

That sleep worked and I was ressurrected this morning feeling pretty perky. So it was on with the main mission, exploring the sandstone crags of San Bartolo, starting with the distinctly funky Sector Mosaico - a clean sheer wall of prehistoric scales that looks desperate but has several amenable lines starting at F6a+. We started on a F6a+ and it rocked, lovely juggy edgy sandstone. And thusly I continued to lead 6 routes in total, nothing hugely challenging yet (just getting warmed up ;)), via some fun dog action, a nice chorizo sandwich, a surprising power-nap, and enough sun (and maybe sunburn) to recharge the solar cells nicely. Tonight I do NOT feel like death, but the bed is still oh-so-appealing ;)

A fun dog.

An insolent oaf.

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Title: Gibbage 3.
Post by: comPiler on January 24, 2012, 12:01:18 am
Gibbage 3. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/01/gibbage-3.html)
23 January 2012, 8:29 pm



Today was pretty cool. We got hold of the local guide and went back to San Bartolo to climb on the shady side. Naturally it stayed cloudy all day. The shady side is infinitely less popular than Sector Mosaico and the nearby Sector 2-Bolt Bumblebollox, but probably better overall - more variety of rock and climbing styles and plentiful interesting routes, albeit lacking the showcase funk of Mosaico itself. We explored around and both got a fair bit done throughout the sectors, this time to the sound of chainsaws not cowbells. As much as I like extreme noise I think I prefer the cowbells as a climbing soundtrack.

My fingers were a getting a bit tender from the sandstone but I had some inspirations to follow so warmed up steadily on nice easy routes, and eventually, after a "Power Manchego" lunch, got to tackle my main goal for the day, this pretty cool bouldery wee route (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPNCFxSphpw). I hadn't watched the video, just skipped to see if the wall looked decent, so it was a nice flash with a clearly defined sequence (pretty different to the video of course, not least because a flake has come off before the span rightwards, leaving a harder and cooler sideways drop move). I enjoyed that and still had enough beans to tackle a couple more uphill routes, before being tired enough to fall off easy slabs to finish ;)

Tomorrow might be back on the lime to give our fingertips a rest. It's all good.

An exceptionally fine braided curler.

A local wench trying to seduce us en-route back to our car.

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Title: Gibbage 4.
Post by: comPiler on January 25, 2012, 12:00:20 am
Gibbage 4. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/01/gibbage-4.html)
24 January 2012, 8:04 pm



Today was a semi-rest day. Rest day = bollox day. Well this one was. Just how it went really. Drove back to San Bartolo to collect my missing downie (doh!). Then back in the opposite direction, initially the plan was to burn up the peage back to Mijas for a small bit of convenience ticking on limestone pockets whilst letting the fingertips relax a bit. But we decided to explore inland....to just explore. A bit of mountain scenery, a bit of sunshine, a bit of limestone. A fucking LOT of endless hairpin mountain roads, the real thrill coming when the petrol light came on with 30km to go till the next town and the hairpins kept going on and on. By a combination of pootling uphill in 5th and freewheeling round blind bends, we made it to the crag and collapsed into much needed lunch.

A few routes were a suitable agenda for the evening, but by the time I warmed up badly and mooched around, I managed to fail on my main desired route of the day. Sure bad bolting was the main issue but even without that I was struggling a bit. Okay it's supposed to be a rest day but even rest days can still have climbing radness, whether it's easy adventures or diverse exploration or just a couple of tricky routes in a generally chilled out day. The 5 hours of driving was anything but chilled out though, so tomorrow it's less miles and more Mosaico ;).

Load of cock.

Tris gave this horse a pear, and it gave us an enthusiastic blast of pear breath after it had chorfled it down.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Gibbage 5.
Post by: comPiler on January 26, 2012, 12:00:28 am
Gibbage 5. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/01/gibbage-5.html)
25 January 2012, 8:36 pm



Aka the day that was forecast for cloud and was glorious sunshine instead. But first, what the fuck is up with me: I come away to get some good climbing action and escape the endless sodden damp of Glasgow and the persist rundownness I've been feeling this winter. So I'm out here - plenty of activity, plenty of rest, loads of fresh air each day (sea air no less), loads of sleep each night, lots of mandarins and pears (when I can stop Tris feeding them to horses). And what do I get?? A mouthful of ulcers, glands like a second bawbag, and now a proper sodding cold!! What the fucking fuck?? IT MAKE NO SENSE!!

Anyway I can't complain too much because today rocked: We headed back to mmmMosaico to enjoy plenty of cooling shade from the forecast clouds, of which there was none. So it was climbing in the (minor) heat before lunch on some rather good routes, and climbing in the dusk after a somewhat snotty siesta on some just as good routes, and then climbing in the dark on some cool wee slabs that rounded things off nicely. The highlight of the day was my hardest route of the trip when I sent Senda Del Tiempo on the main Mosaico wall. This took all the tactics and waning stamina I had, and was satisfying partly due to the challenge and getting in the zone where I really had to deal with it, but mostly because it was an objectively great route: sustained, consistent, well-balanced, some respite that the most improbable points, and a delicate finish. Which was nice ;).

A slight misnomer today - for a change!

I tried to clean this bossly beetle, but he just squeaked furiously at me.

Guess who is having their rump firmly scratched...

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Gibbage 6.
Post by: comPiler on January 27, 2012, 12:00:18 am
Gibbage 6. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/01/gibbage-6.html)
26 January 2012, 6:00 pm



The final day in a tidying up loose ends and finishing stuff off sort of way. The forecast was for cloud, it was glorious again, despite storm clouds over the hills providing a scenic backdrop. I still felt like utter shit with my gayflu. Bored of that. But there was plenty to get on with. We "warmed up" sliding off heinous micro-slabs: F6c and F7b that were more like that in British tech grades. The rock was cool but the sun was warm and needless to say our toll in skin and rubber was not repaid.

Thence it was on to the shady side, requiring a retreat and re-stomp to the opposite sector of the hillside. I'm noticing that after several days doing short uphill walk-ins and plenty of other exercise, my legs are still completely and utterly fucked and as usual I feel no progress in fitness at all. Cocktwats. Anyway the shady sector was shady although kinda sweaty. Managed a couple of routes including a pretty challenging one. Finally it was over to a different sandstone crag, El Bujeo, for a breezy and scenic evening, and a few more good and varied routes and a slightly frustrating "slip-off-the-first" move attempt of a stiffer proposition. A pretty good day despite feeling rougher than an East End Glaswegian's face.

This brings things to 34 routes I think. Not bad for a short week :). Plenty of fun on the sandstone, a few good challenges tackled (better than I thought!) and a few near misses to learn from. Tomorrow we fly back to dismal Scotland where I plan to hibernate for a while...

Africa in the morning.

Horses in the afternoon.

Gibraltar in the evening.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Gibbage summary.
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2012, 12:00:28 am
Gibbage summary. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/01/gibbage-summary.html)
29 January 2012, 4:39 pm



Still got the gayflu. It's normal OMG-I'm-going-to-die-this-is-so-epicly-gay manflu. So if I survive it should be over soon. I wanted to go training today but it's enforced rest time so a good time to reflect on the purpose of training i.e. cool little (or preferably a lot bigger!) trips away like the recent one.

Okay, San Bartolo. Not a major destination but what it lacks in sport climbing spectacularness, it makes up for in nice sandstone rock and good varied routes especially in the lower & middle grades - it lived up to people describing it suchlike, and worked nicely for us. Well worth a look for a long weekend or short week. Fly into Malaga, stop off at Mijas, stay in Tarifa or Algeciras, get the guide from the wee shop in Tarifa, errr that's it really. Ask if you want more info.

My climbing....went better than expected this trip! Quite a nice surprise, given how the odds have been stacked against me, and my bare minimum of training was two sessions at Ratho - although since the sandstone is more technical / powerful than sustained, I guess the TCA sessions have helped. I hoped, as always, for a good trip tackling some good challenges, but also prepared myself for inescapable punterism and was happily resigned to lots of nice mileage climbs as easing towards the routes season, if it had to come to that. But it didn't really. I got some nice mileage, but also tackled some good challenges, and most of the puntering was a cautious necessity to let skin and muscles recover to avoid spoiling those challenges.

Things that went well or I did well:

+ Good tactics with warming up / climbing / resting / skin care.

+ Strength seems fine.

+ Technique and route reading okay, probably from T'County trips.

+ Stamina better than expected, shows potential.

+ Fairly confident committing to moves with bolt near.

+ Aches and niggles (fingers and elbows) felt a lot better after more climbing in the sun!

Things that sucked or I need to improve:

- Still fat, will be a hard fucking battle to improve.

- Legs still fucked, will be a hard/impossible fucking battle to improve.

- Big coward above bolts, need to work on falling practise soon.

- Not enough foot power through small footholds, need to focus on that.

- A bit casual with a couple of harder climbs, need to be more focused.

Overall I think I am the right track and have potential to climb at least decently this year....I just have to keep climbing, keep active, and keep training.

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Title: Training and mileage.
Post by: comPiler on February 01, 2012, 12:00:10 am
Training and mileage. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/01/training-and-mileage.html)
31 January 2012, 6:54 pm



^^^ This track is included solely because it is awesome and sometimes the path to awesomeness has to be paved with training.

The gayflu abated enough for me to go back down to TCA. I was hoping to finish off a couple of comp wall problems before they get reset this weekend. But after warming up (always so tedious in a cold wall!) and giving it a go I was just feeling weak and tired. Hmmmm. But didn't I just have a good week's mileage and then a nice rest weekend?? Oh, no, wait, was it fuck a rest weekend. An ill weekend and a recovering weekend. So I sacked it off and did almost all the new reds before they tweak them to make an easier circuit. I haven't actually had a hard training session for a few weeks, I definitely want to get back on that style of training, but I have to easy myself back into it via mileage.

One good thing though: I have had a lot of bollox training sessions because of how screwy my body (and sometimes mind!) is, and it's often been fairly demoralising with only brief glimpses of progression. But this last trip did reassure me that despite all the bollox and demoralisation, the training does seem to be doing something - slowly clawing my way back towards a previous physical level, or at the very least halting the decline! And at the end of the day, that's what matters - the training is for SOMETHING, awesome experiences on the rock, so if I feel I'm touching on that then I'm inclined to battle through.

On a related subject of fitness and progress and the ups and downs of the physical side of climbing, I was chatting to Alan C down at TCA after reading about his struggles in the last year, and in terms of fitness he highlighted the difference between training days / bouldering days, and full days out on rock and on routes. This is something I've noticed - full days out with lots of routes, even if they are not very hard, is simply better EXERCISE than training sessions or bouldering. So far, so obvious. But in terms of bouldering days - a sensible choice in winter - I have been avoiding mileage in favour of projects. Projects are rewarding and train some areas of climbing, but skin and muscle tends to give way before energy and fitness does. Thus not good exercise! So I think it will be a good idea to mix it up and be flexible in my bouldering trips - if a project isn't going well that day, just getting plenty of mileage in will do me good overall. The same with the wall too...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2594665617540411147?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Misanthrope Mission #6
Post by: comPiler on February 02, 2012, 06:00:09 pm
Misanthrope Mission #6 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/02/misanthrope-mission-6.html)
2 February 2012, 11:46 am



There's a brief period of amazing winter conditions in Scotland at the moment. It's due to end this weekend, but luckily I managed to get up to Glen Nevis this week. Cold and crisp and sunny the whole way up - even some routes in Glen Coe looked climbable, if cold! Perfect for the rough rock and sinuous slopers of Glen Nevis South Side, perfect for getting back on my new project, and rattling some other things off.

The videos above sum it up I think. Black Orc was the main mission objective, it was a relief to get it done as it's been nagging at me since I first saw it - obvious, natural, good climbing to a barbaric top-out. It felt hard enough to me! The funny thing about this area is that even easy-looking lines mysteriously turn out to be a lot harder when you actually attempt them. One of my easy warm-ups required a few goes working it, another easy warm-up turned into another long-term project. Perhaps it is because the rock is nicely slopey and frictional, so feels good in good conditions, but also quite bulging and rounded, so a surprising amount of power can be needed... Either way it is very good winter bouldering! And as a bonus the weir was curiously low for this time of year - although crossing it at dusk was exciting as the riverside rocks were coated in sheet ice from the spray. Needless to say I survived, but my fingertips and elbows are still recovering from the session.

As for the newness of these problems - it is quite simple, they have not been listed anywhere I can find and show no evidence of being climbed. The Glen Nevis definitive bouldering guide lists hundreds of problems including several around these boulders, but the developers seemed to have no concept of sit-starts nor aretes/prows ;). And Dave Mac....checking his blog and Youtube videos, he is rightly concerned with bigger and harder things. Most of these new lines required cleaning: Squirrel Groove & Black Orc had clumped moss at the start and I snapped off a flake where the RH crimp now is. Bear Rib and Finch Arete had thick moss on crucial holds, compared to Finch Attack and Bear Island (the latter only listed in GNB, but a very nice problem) which had old brushed holds. Flying Fiend had no chalk under the roof (it now has my wee dabs from November despite the storms) compared to Flying Roof to the right. Etc etc. I'll post full details of these soon as there really is a great circuit there now.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4118775281161863522?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Southside DAWG, keeping it REAL.
Post by: comPiler on February 04, 2012, 06:00:10 pm
Southside DAWG, keeping it REAL. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/02/southside-dawg-keeping-it-real.html)
4 February 2012, 12:38 pm



Whatever. I've heard American gangsta-speak used in bouldering winds up po-faced miserable Brits, so that's as good a reason as any. Anyway...

~€§€~

New problems on Glen Nevis Southside:

(NB Blogspot might do that shit-awful slideshow thing - to see fullsize map, right click and open in new window).

Described from NE to SW, from the Weir Crossing. New problems in bold, established problems in not-bold.

Tim's Arete

(aka Evening Boulder aka Finch Boulder)

Squirrel Groove V2 5c *** (FA Hazel Robson Nov 2011)

SS tiny corner to crimps, gain slim groove on left and pull onto slab via ripples.

Black Orc V6 6b *** (FA Fiend Feb 2012)

SS tiny corner to crimps, gain bulging nose, palm to apex and barbaric topout.


Bear Island V3 5c

Bear Rib - V3 5c *  (FA Fiend Feb 2012)

SS just right of Bear Island, pull up to arete pinch and hidden crimp, gain top on left and rock rightwards.

Finch Arete - V1 5b *  (FA Fiend Feb 2012)

Obvious arete L of Finch Attack from a standing start.


Finch Attack V4 6a

Punch And Judy Man V8 6c

Tim's Arete V5 6b

Wee Wall V1 5c  (FA Fiend Feb 2012)

On right of high face, link good shelf to good shelf via a crimp, escape R.


unnamed 3b

unnamed 3c

unnamed 3a

The Rocking Stone

Unnamed 5a

Unnamed SS V2 5c (FA Hazel Robson Nov 2011)

SS as below but gain groove instead.

Thousand Year Egg V4 6b ** (FA Fiend Nov 2011)

SS on big sidepull, pull up to distant ripple then to higher seam on faint nose, rock onto ripple (no crimp in groove).


Rocking Stone Slab V2 5c

Squirrel Rib RHS V3 6a (FA Fiend Nov 2011)

SS RHS of arete with RH sidepull, slap up arete and stand delicately up using micro-ripple on slab.

Squirrel Rib LHS V2 6a * (FA Hazel Robson Nov 2011)

LHS of arete using good sidepull for left and slopey arete for right to good finishing holds.


Mole stones:

First Stone

unnamed 4c

The Art Of Shredding V2 6a *  (FA Fiend Feb 2012)

SS down and left using arete and crimp, grind up blunt rib.


unnamed 5a

unnamed 5a

Flying Roof / Boothill Roof

(huge roof hidden behind Slug)

Flying Fiend V4 6a ** (FA Fiend Nov 2011)

Left side of roof. SS at obvious flat holds, pull up and use roof crimps to gain lip, swing rightwards to rockover finish.


Flying Roof V5 6c

Sheep Skull V2 5c

~€§€~

A few things to note:


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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Carrock Crush.
Post by: comPiler on February 11, 2012, 12:00:11 am
Carrock Crush. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/02/carrock-crush.html)
10 February 2012, 9:34 pm



In reality another Misanthrope Mission, but technically not as I actually invited a couple of homies down but they couldn't make it. I'm just as happy pootling around on my own, it allows me to get more focused too.

I've had a love/hate relationship with Carrock Fell. It's a great venue with plentiful inspiring problems, but I've had a couple of visits where I've seen a cool, breezy forecast, and been fully syked for the rough gabbro circuits, but it's turned out surprisingly muggy (the background of my blog title is taken from a hazy Carrock day) and I've got my arse kicked by the finger-shredding crimpy walls. I've never felt I've got to grips with the boulders, until the other day...

THIS time the conditions would have to be in my favour: Arriving at midday, it's glorious sun slowly slinking off the hillside, -1°C, and a steady South Easterly breeze. Perfect. I stomped up the hillside to the Mile High Wall. Rockfax says to avoid the bracken and "stick to the rocks" which I did. Pretty soon I skidded off icey rock and down into a jagged pit, only being stopped by being wedged between my mats and my shin on a rough boulder. Once at Mile High Wall however, the vibes were spot on. And then things pretty much proceeded as in the video above - I did some great problems although I didn't flash as many as I wanted (more on this later). I also tried a few other things (finger-shredding crimpy walls) and recced some cool problems for another time.

Just a classic bouldering day out :D.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1762493829100741786?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Fluffing Flashes.
Post by: comPiler on February 14, 2012, 12:00:09 pm
Fluffing Flashes. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/02/fluffing-flashes_14.html)
14 February 2012, 9:00 am



Flashing....yeah the police have given me a formal caution and I'm not allowed within 100 yds of any Glasgow school.

I like flashing boulder problems. I like working them and unlocking them and solving their intricacies and going from not being able to do a single move to doing the entire problem. But I also like flashing problems. I like how the focus shifts from working the problem to working it out in advance. All the tactics and tricks and planning and plotting. And the actual attempt, the challenge of quick thinking, adaptability, execution, and above all, determination. Fighting when the moves are not exectuted optimally, fighting to stay on because there's just no point in letting go. Not a masochistic battle, but a pleasurable one.

So. Carrock. I had an inkling I could flash Sing A Rainbow. Why? Steep prow, a couple of crimps, amazing conditions. That suits me well. Not too fiddly, sequences that can be assessed from the ground. And I didn't do it. Nor did I flash anything else that day. But they were all close and I want to learn from that....

I Can, I Can't - could have flashed, but didn't because: Just slid off the cut-loose move as I got my toe back on. 2nd and 3rd successful go I used exactly the same method just hung on! A little bit more fight and better preparation brushing the hold and I think this would have been fine.

Sing A Rainbow - could have flashed, but didn't because: Wrongly judged that I had to get my right hand higher at the start, but once in that position I couldn't move to get the left-hand crimp. In fact reaching off the low right-hand pinch is very easy and I should have had a quick look at that option before moving my right hand. I ended up working the problem, because the off-balance slap higher up is quite unnerving with a weird swing/fall potential, BUT on a flash attempt I think I'd have had the sheer battle to go for it.

Undercut Arete - could have flashed, but didn't because: I choose the wrong starting method. Both the "feet miles away on the back wall" and "footless hang into heelhook" methods seemed quite unlikely with my bloated body, but I flipped a coin and tried feet on first. Feet promptly off and arse back on ground. I then tried the hang method and really surprised myself by crunching up into the heelhook. If I'd tried that first go it would have gone.

Purple Slab - could have flashed, but didn't because: Tried the wrong method first go, second go my lower foot slipped. This is a bit more on/off and outside my control, but I could have ignore the right-hand method and then put my foot on with more care. I think I was a bit casual at this late stage in the day.

So what I've learnt from that:

1. Prepare better including brushing and chalking.

2. Fight a bit harder!

3. When anticipating sequences, give myself some options to consider and execute if needed.

4. Choose my sequence carefully.

5. Keep trying, because I'm pretty damn close to some good flashes.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5145211104282978232?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Queen's Quadruple Quest.
Post by: comPiler on February 21, 2012, 06:00:05 pm
Queen's Quadruple Quest. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/02/queens-quadruple-quest.html)
21 February 2012, 2:17 pm



Quest 1: Nice day. Walked into the crag. It rained.

Quest 2: Dry sunny day with snow on the ground. Walked into the crag. It was coated in snow.

Quest 3: Sunny breezy day. Showers just past. Walls soaked. Didn't even walk into the crag.

Quest 4:

Ohhhh YEAH. Amazing conditions. Lovely day to be bouldering, right on the cusp where unbeatable conditions turn into unsurvivable cold. Tris and I survived 5 hours although it was touch and go at the end. A quick half of Twice Brewed bitter at the Twice Brewed Inn (shown on the bouldering guide map as "Once Brewed", I was really not sure about drinking Twice Brewed at Once Brewed, or vice versa) kept morale enough to finish the 250 mile round trip.

Despite the conditions, this turned into more of an easy mileage day. A nice warm-up circuit, a couple of good middling problems spoilt by weirdo landings, and some fun problems later on seen in the video, including this Queen Line:

I did want to push myself on harder things at Queens, but there just seemed to be niggling little issues on the day:

Victory Arete SS - top-out felt too dodgy with smeary feet and a nasty blade of rock to skid onto. Even after flashing both stand-up versions to the top it just seemed unjustifiable and couldn't be arsed trying the sitter to not top that out either. Could have tried harder to pad the blade I guess.

West Wall - not sure about line (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19595.0.html), we tried an easy line but backed off the top-out again because of bad fall potential not difficulty.

Mxymatosis - not sure about finish (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19595.0.html), saw a climber climb to the top but the direct finish was too dirty. Again dodgy fall for that sort of nonsense.

Border Reiver - had a brief look at the end of the day but needed more time, more cleaning, and more attention given it's highball nature.

Left Hand Leap - kept trying the wrong method, got suckered in by a fruity pinch on the very arete but that's not the actual line, which goes up the righthand face. There's even a photo in the guide! Not that that's always to be relied on...

So dodgy lines and dodgy landings were the main deal! I'd go back for all of those with better preparation and knowledge. On my own, I'd probably be most tempted by working Worldline, probably waaaaay beyond me but could be interesting. Loads more easy stuff to warm-up on too.

An easy day on Sunday left my body feeling good on Monday, so I focused on a harder session at TCA, and felt quite good. Hurrah.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-118996877699066557?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: sjw on February 21, 2012, 08:27:03 pm
saw a climber climb to the top...

Nice to meet you and your friend at Queen's. Great photos/film/effort on Magician's Nephew! I'll ask about those lines next time I'm at the wall and let you know if I get info.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 21, 2012, 09:24:08 pm
Hi  :wave: Thanks for the spot / encouragement / pads. It was a mighty fine day!
Title: Make Your Transition
Post by: comPiler on February 24, 2012, 06:00:12 pm
Make Your Transition (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/02/make-your-transition.html)
24 February 2012, 2:34 pm



It's coming to that time of year when the bleak cold wetness of the Scottish winter gives way to the miserable mild wetness of the Scottish spring. Unlike the changing of the seasons everywhere else on Planet Earth, this does precisely fuck all for the chances of being able to climb upon rock, apart from the random single month of dry spring/summer/autumn weather, whenever that might choose to occur. What it does mean that on the stolen days between the sodden downpours, the lukewarm temperatures might be enough to tolerate route climbing rather than bouldering. This brings great joy to my trad climbers heart, or it would if there was the slightest chance of getting the 15 or so trad days I'm really syked for done this season. Bitter about the endless battle against the elements? Me? Really?

Anyway in the meantime there is the transitionary period when it's not quite warm enough for 30m of sustained gneiss, but too warm for 3m of slopey sandstone. This is where many subtle things may happen - route training begins, sun-trap outcrops can be savoured (if they set their traps well enough), Aberdeen sea-cliffs may be assaulted before the birds do the same, and short technical bold and bouldery routes provide the transition between bouldering and tradding. Living in Scotland these are a rarity but there are some to be sought out and explored, and I am quite syked for the idea! The idea includes these ideas flitting around my head:

Glen Nevis: Fingertip Finale, Precious Cargo, Sweet Little Mystery, Where The Mood Takes Me - soloey little things on subtle schist.

Pass Of Ballater: Peel's Wall, Smith's Arete - bold classics on suntrap granite.

Glen Croe - Edge Of Insanity - more bold schist.

Bowdens: On The Verge, The Gauleiter, Poseidon Adventure, The Trial - a great diversity of gritstone-style sandstone routes.

Goat Crag: Underpass, The Hard Shoulder - similar hidden gems.

Where else? Post some ideas for me.... Obviously there's local stuff from Quadrocks to Limekilns, but more exploratory ones are more welcome.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4143027365974384651?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: north_country_boy on February 24, 2012, 06:05:32 pm
What utter pessimism. Try getting 15 days of trad with a full time time intensive job, then you can moan.

Spring is the best time of year in Scotland for getting out on rock and given the mild winter the big melt will happen sooner than usual this year.

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 24, 2012, 06:35:42 pm
Just based on last year. Two weeks of summer between the end of April and beginning of November. I'll keep moaning about that for a while I think.

I should have said though: by trad days I mean "trad days in the best areas i.e. North West".
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Ian T on February 25, 2012, 12:17:40 pm
You keep banging this drum Fiend, but you are totally wrong. Last year was a GOOD year in the North West. The most absolutely amazing dry spells in April and November. May and December were poor and the rest were average.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 26, 2012, 06:37:10 pm
I'm sure it was easy to get out in the North West if you live up there*. To justify 4+ hours drive I need more than single dry days.

I was up there in April. I spent the rest of the year aiming to get back, checking the forecast all over the North West, each day, every day, without fail, and finally it was reliable enough so I got up there in November **. I missed the 2 weeks (july?) BETWEEN April and November.

I think Fort William was the wettest year for 25 years??



(* - which is tempting me for that very reason)

(** - unlike the previous year where I had two seperate trips to Reiff and Skye in September and another one to Ullapool in October)
Title: 2CVS.
Post by: comPiler on February 27, 2012, 12:00:08 am
2CVS. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/02/2cvs.html)
26 February 2012, 8:13 pm



Two Climbing Venues...

Craigmore is a okay wee crag for gritstone-style mid-grade trad puntering (if you subtract a star from everything), and an okay wee crag for bouldering. It has a lot of rock but that which isn't tall enough for routes often isn't distinct enough for bouldering, giving lean but sometimes refined pickings. The rock is okay, the landings are okay, and the dank wooded shelter of the crag is a good boon in westerly gales. One such day the other week I snuck out for a couple of hours. The Pine Cone is a pleasant situation as promised, feeling both open to the creeping sunshine and tucked away from the rest of Glasgow. Jamie's Overhang looks quite minor until you actually pull on and realise that it's as burly wee cunt of a problem that is close to it's star rating and highly distant from it's supposed grade:

Other areas I recced:

The Wizard - great line, looks quite easy, proper highball finish, pretty classic.

Wizard SS - lowball start into the above but actually looks alright.

Wide Eyed - odd eliminate, not sure where it goes and what it uses, not super inspiring.

Terror SS - good line, SS is a bit of a non-move wonder but could be fun, good name.

Andy's Arete - another lowball sitter but another decent-looking problem - looks especially interesting as it's covered in useless holds above a good landing.

So that's somewhere to keep in mind next time the Atlantic winds are howling through the city.

~€§€~

Clifton is a nice wee crag for gritstone-style mid-grade trad puntering, but a strange crag for bouldering. And by "strange" I mean "bollox". I get the distinct impression that it was only included in the guide because it really really should have some decent bouldering even if it actually doesn't. Beneath the crag is an toppled jumble of extensive granite blocs, whose landings and surroundings rarely make extensive granite blocks. If these otherwise promising stones were airlifted out of the boulderfield and dropped on flat ground at appealingly jaunty angles, there could be some truly delightful problems. As it is all the problems are conceptually good but invariably flawed to the point of irrelevance...

Knife Party - grubby arseball, is the crux keeping off the ground or keeping off the crowding prop boulder?

Study Break - non-move wonder with the tiniest floor-space to start off.

Trauma - at least has a line (or a few), and some length, in fact all it is missing is any form of landing....unless you think Porth Ysgo landings are a bit too toddler friendly.

Wall Problem - again an acceptable bit of rock that is cramped by a prop boulder that must be negotiated more than the actual line.

Paul's Dyno - nasty sandbag above brambles and blocks, with the bewildering recommendation of ignoring the clean direct finish and tackling a lip traverse added on for the sole purpose of maximising moss above a degenerating landing zone.

Zillion Dollar Sadist - a ludicrous "problem" which is pretty much a slanting chimney eliminating the sensible choice of lying down on the boulder beneath you.

So balls to that. I put my shoes on, touched the starting holds of Paul's Dyno, took them off, and went to have a look at Sandyhills. I walked onto the beach, got to the shore, and the tide raced in almost as quick as I escaped. I left...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-1419399222052085884?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 27, 2012, 10:28:52 am
Fucked up blocks and blocs on editing, oops.
Title: Arbroath Antics
Post by: comPiler on March 06, 2012, 12:00:22 am
Arbroath Antics (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/03/arbroath-antics.html)
3 March 2012, 7:08 pm



Antics is about the right word. As part of the transition (embarrassingly I've realised that I had linked the same drum'n'bass track in a very similar post this time last year), I thought short technical bolted sandstone would be quite suitable. I'd forgotten that Arbroath is often less about technicalities and more about weirdo approaches, weirdo belays, weirdo rock and weirdo conditions. It can be be plenty of fun, but it's hardly a bolted Ramshaw / Ravensheugh / Reiff. This was firmly confirmed by the first route up the Devil's Head (Deil's Heid whatEVER), which escalated steadily up the strangeness stakes from a sloping gritty sandbag start via a top-out up sloping lichen (cleverly chalked by Tris to pretend there was rock underneath), and culminating in the reward of a single abseil bolt seemingly driven into mud or perhaps it actually reached the fragile sandstone biscuit beneath....I tried not to spare it too much thought.

After that things went to a state of curious calmness. Grannie's head had an easy approach, comfortable platform, proper loweroffs and a reassuring grade and delightful crux on The Mushroom Treatment, although the 40° overhanging F6b+ had to be regretfully aborted due to the obligatory sea skank. One to come back for. Conning Tower Inlet looked rather good - another one to come back for - but with a team of 3 the Platform seemed more logistically logical. Ride Em Cowboy was good easy fun, Waves Of Emotion was a billion times harder and ignored, Parson's Nose necessitated an embarrassing rest due to not knowing the line and not liking numb fingers. So only a few routes but a good recce and it was nice to be on the rock again. March now....route season and route training whenever suitable...(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-6126805613068103064?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Utter pessimism?
Post by: comPiler on March 06, 2012, 12:00:23 am
Utter pessimism? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/03/utter-pessimism.html)
5 March 2012, 7:14 pm



Regular readers (you poor fools) might notice that I occasionally pass comment and critical analysis on the weather, and given I'm living in Scotland and trying to climb good trad in great areas, such comment tends to be contempt and such analysis tends to be justifiably extremely critical. This moaning and whining and ranting is quite simply a natural reaction to an often ridiculous state of affairs, and whilst it might not make good reading, it does make necessary writing.

It also seems to attract bizarre and outrageous accusations ranging from the spurious ("You chose to move to Scotland") to the obscene ("It's just the weather why moan about it") and downright defamatory ("You are totally wrong about last year's washout"). I'm not sure how people can get away with such....libel but at least I can set the record straight.

To set the setting straight, let's be clear on what "good" weather necessarily entails in the context of Scottish climbing. Given the whole point of Scottish climbing is trad climbing (cragging in my case) in the Highlands and Islands, taking in the approximate Elipse Of Extreme Excitement from Glasgow to Mull to Ardnamurchan to Skye to Lewis to Sheigra to Ardmair to Creag Dubh to Glasgow, naturally enclosing the areas of utmost importance like Glen Nevis, Torridon and Gairloch.

Good weather doesn't require months of amazing conditions, long summers of hot dry weather, or any other spurious nonsense that fools might accuse me of expecting. It DOES entail having two or more consecutive dry days in that area, when the rock is dry enough to climb and the season is warm enough for trad. NOT long periods of sunshine and showers where you might just sneak in a route per day when the rain stops. NOT single days interspersed with rain which is fine if you're a local but plain unfeasible for a 4 hour journey. NOT an amazing spell in December when it's dry but below 0'c. NOT good weather along the East coast as while there is good climbing there it is a wet weather escape and often dry in the East is wet in the West.

Look! Scotland in the sunshine! Isn't it pretty! But in a climbing context... This is the start of March, still too cold for normal trad - that doesn't make it a good year. This is after a day of heavy showers and light snow, not a sustained period of dryness - that doesn't make it a good year. This is down near Stranraer, notoriously escaping the wetness that blights the most important Scottish climbing areas - that doesn't make it a good year.

So, two or more consecutive dry days with dry rock. Preferably three or more for Skye, or a short week for Lewis. Quite a low standard so even more ridiculous when Scotland fails to meet it. In that context let's look at the last couple of years and the climbing days I got out during the spring/summer/autumn period, in the Eclipse Of Excellence, on 2+ day trips:

2010:

April: 2

May: 3

June: 4 + 2

July: 0

August: 0

September: 6 + 3

October: 3

= 21 North West 2+ day trip days.

Bear in mind there was plenty of shit showery weather throughout the summer. By English standards this was fairly mediocre. By Scottish standards it was probably normal, and actually tolerable. Also bear in mind I spent all of August pissing around at Dumby so might have missed weather windows then.

2011:

April: 4 + 4

May: 0

June: 0

July: 2

August: 0

September: 0

October: 0

= 10 North West 2+ day trip days.

Bear in mind that this year I had more keen climbing partners and more determination to explore areas, as can be seen from taking advantage of the single month of summer in April. However I did miss a short dry period in early July, though that would have hardly caught up much.

Hmmm. Even I hadn't realised how low this was! Nor the difference. Suffice to say that when I say last year was bollox I am....totally right.

Despite my utter pessimism I will still keep my fingers crossed for this year, of course. Because despite it all, Scotland is ace and Scottish cragging is ace :).

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-9135586646764335576?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Ian T on March 07, 2012, 10:06:13 am
Number of days climbing with a rope north of the Great Glen, not including evenings after work. Mixture of trad and sport.

2010 81 days
2011 84 days

Guess I just got lucky...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 07, 2012, 10:15:09 am
And that, ladies and gentlemen, is why I am seriously considering moving to Inverness for a while.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on March 07, 2012, 02:21:46 pm
If I had the chance I wouldn't just be considering it. Can't be worse than Weegieland.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 07, 2012, 02:40:43 pm
Well.....no TCA ;)  :'(

And harder to get to flights abroad... :doubt:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on March 07, 2012, 03:26:15 pm
Apparently llegedly TIF are building a new wall at the harbour next year, according to our mutual friend.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: richieb on March 07, 2012, 08:15:54 pm
'Twas in the Highland News. Planning permission already sorted, work may start this summer.

IMO Inverness is a good base for rock climbing but only if you can regularly take days off from work / home responsibilities at short notice. 
Its great being close enough to take advantage of good weather days in the North West, but they are almost always mid week.

Evening cragging is limited although better now than a few years ago with the development of Moy, Camel etc, but you do end up at the same crags (doing the same routes) over and over (I did live on the orme before moving up so I have been spoiled).
I'd say probably Aberdeen has better evening cragging if they didn't all face the wrong direction.
With no access to places like Ratho or TCA, I find it is difficult to get any momentum going up here. You only need one wet weekend and a couple of abandoned midge fest evenings and you suddenly find you haven't been out in 2 weeks. Then a mint weekend arrives and you climb like shit cos you haven't been out for ages.

Perfect cragging days in the North West do happen and are hard to beat, but only if you are actually there and fit enough to climb the things you want to climb.



Title: Lacklustre at Ley, Bollox at Barnton, Lazy at Laggan.
Post by: comPiler on March 12, 2012, 12:00:17 am
Lacklustre at Ley, Bollox at Barnton, Lazy at Laggan. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/03/lacklustre-at-ley-bollox-at-barnton.html)
11 March 2012, 8:01 am



Managed to get 3 days out recently...

Ley Quarry: Supposed sun-trap. Windy. Bloody cold. Did a few easier routes. They were nice enough and fairly decent mileage. Dropped one of my shoes in the pool, it's still damp. Tried slightly tricker routes, stopped by ridiculously reaches (F6b+ that is F7a if you can't reach the hold) and cold, sore fingers.

Barnton Quarry: Grim location even by my standards. Almost "so bad it's good" but not quite. The small bits of climbable rock are actually okay. If you literally wore blinkers it could be appealing. We did a couple of trad routes. Hanging around doing trad felt tiring. And committing. Tried another route and pulled a hold off. Possibly dodgy rock rather than shockwaves emenating out from my gigantic wobbling gut.

Laggan Boulders: With the M80 running smooth it's under 2 hours from Glasgow. Very windy, but curiously warm for bouldering. Good lines up there and plenty of potential. Did some easy problems. Tried a harder problem. Felt crap and tired. Decided to sack it off and go to the other boulders. Then got blocked in and in some almighty trouble with the farmer for driving up the track without permission. Eventually somehow negotiated an escape, drove to the other boulders, met some cows, and just couldn't be fucked to walk-in.

I've felt a long way away from where I want to be in my spirit and my climbing this week. Just need to weather it out I think.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-6663705671802812747?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Ardvorlich Action.
Post by: comPiler on March 14, 2012, 12:00:11 am
Ardvorlich Action. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/03/ardvorlich-action.html)
13 March 2012, 5:55 pm



Albeit action of an easy pottering kind - all I'm suited for at the moment, and the right path of action to work back to some sort of climbing confidence.

Ardvorlich is a sweet wee crag indeed. Two adjacent sheer slabs formed from a hummock that pleasingly shelters them from the nearby road, thus combining easy access with surprising tranquility. I've been inspired to go for a few years, ever since seeing a good cragshot from Magpie (back when she still joined in with climbing), and got there the other day. A brace of sport F6a/+s provided the optimum low level to appease my slothful spirit, and the delicately crinkled schist provided a good reawakening of rock sense after a winter that has perhaps been overly-focused on TCA training. I left a few routes to go back for (albeit ones that will need trad gear or pre-placed slings to bypass the sporadic but utterly ludicrous death bolting that spoils a couple of routes).

Actually I think there is no "perhaps" about over-training. My elbows are tweaky again, this time particularly the right one. I haven't been as worried as I should be about this, and am now just about realising the potential for catastrophic suckage this could be entail. Last time it ruined my 2008 summer, and this time, although I have recently upped my training and general levels of activity, my climbing and fitness are even more fragile. The one thing I have in my favour is prior knowledge of how to deal with this (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2008/09/elbow.html), and have already started massaging, taping, and eccentric wrist curls. Time to incorporate icing, and hope that an increasing focus on routes, exploration, and fitness training will avoid the worst of injury.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-6277469244153199233?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Ten Tonne Terrible.
Post by: comPiler on March 19, 2012, 12:00:11 am
Ten Tonne Terrible. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/03/ten-tonne-terrible.html)
18 March 2012, 8:21 pm



Weight is a big issue for me at the moment. Currently (and for the last couple of years) I weigh about 12Œ stone. Back in 2006/07, at my healthiest and most active, when I was climbing very regularly and pushing myself, I weighed about 10œ -  10Ÿ stone. So I've put on at least a stone and a half. For a 5'8" midget this is A LOT. Is there any need to explain why this is such a big issue for a passionate and dedicated climber?? I thought not. What is more useful to explain is why I am in this state, and what, if anything, I can do to get out of it. There are several possible reasons why I might have put on so much weight, but which ones are the real reasons??

Age:

Some people have said, in a semi-resigned and slightly teeth-sucking way, "Well that's what it's like getting old". I don't really see any evidence or reasoning for this in my case, and since there are extremely clear reasons for my weight gain that exactly coincide with when it started, while "getting old" has no specific coincidence nor abruptness of change in the last few years rather than the previous few, I am certain it is not a factor.

Diet:

Several people have speculated, seriously or otherwise, that my "Glasgow diet" is the cause of my weight gain. The truth is quite simply that my diet has improved since I moved to Glasgow, because I have been more careful with it - I eat less unhealthy foods and less wildly varying portions than before.

E.g.:

Sheffield - often sausages and pastries for breakfast;

Glasgow - usually have cereal and/or toast.

Sheffield - used to buy packs of mini-chocolates for snacks;

Glasgow - usually buy packs of fruit and nuts.

Sheffield - would sometimes have Scotch Eggs and pork pies;

Glasgow - never eat them.

Sheffield - would often have creamy puddings / treats;

Glasgow - usually bio-yoghurt if at all.

Sheffield - used to eat badly/sporadically in the day and have huge evening meal;

Glasgow - eat more regularly and try to reduce meal sizes.

Sheffield - would have starter/main/rice/bread for curry, and attempt to eat them all;

Glasgow - only have 2/3 of the previous and never stuff myself for the sake of it.

There are a few exceptions: I tend to have takeaways slightly more often, albeit with smaller sizes, I sometimes have a Snickers bar as a daytime snack, and I often have diet soft drinks instead of fruit juice and fizzy water. BUT the improvements I've made far outweigh those. Diet is not a factor, if it was I would have LOST weight in Glasgow.

Medication:

I have been on Citalopram since late 2009, just after my DVTs. This is anecdotally known (and possibly clinically proven) to affect weight (usually weight gain) by affecting metabolism. The period of weight gain exactly coincides with the period of being this medication. Furthermore, even before I was aware of this as a possible cause, I was aware of a change in my metabolism as my body temperature (previously running fairly warm) had been fluctuating wildy, from hot and sweaty in bed to often surprisingly cold outside (especially my hands - not affected by DVTs). Although not proven, my gut instinct this is definitely a main factor.

Inability to exercise:

My ability to do simple calorie-burning, weight-reducing CV exercise has been HUGELY reduced by having DVTs. Back in 2008 when I had my elbow injury, I wasn't out climbing much and started putting on some weight. I started running, which was hard at first, but I improved well, used the simplicity of going out for a run to get regular exercise and lost weight. I simply cannot do that any more. With sealed iliac and pelvic veins, when I run or walk uphill, my legs cannot return the de-oxygenated blood quickly enough through the adjacent superficial veins, my heart cannot pump around blood that isn't there, my lungs can't supply oxygen to a system that isn't moving, and I quickly grind to an exhausted halt. This is an absolute mechanical limit, irrespective of previous or current fitness. I tested myself once, and while previously I could comfortably do a 40 minute road run, my current absolute maximum is 10œ minutes. This similar applies to walking uphill (simple exercise, usually as part of a climbing day out). I estimate I am working at 20-25% of my previous leg fitness. Imagine going for a 4 mile run around Burbage and only being able to do 1 mile as the utterly exhausting limit. Or imagine walking up to Stanage Plantation and having to rest just after the plantation trees otherwise you would collapse. That is exactly what it is like. Then imagine facing that for the rest of your lift, with no possible surgical or medical intervention, and almost certainly no improvement ever. This makes it EXTREMELY hard to do enough CV exercise to reduce weight, and it is definitely a main factor, probably THE main factor.

Less regular climbing:

Although I cannot do the most simple and beneficial CV exercises, I have found that the regular active climber's lifestyle has definitely caused periods of minor weight loss during the last few years. In particular, 12 days in Sweden, even with their minimal walk-ins, had me at the healthiest and lightest I was all last year. I think this is partly due to lots of climbing but partly due to the general level of activity on a full day out climbing. Unfortunately in Scotland this regularity has proved hard to find, mainly due to the often consistently wet weather that prevents it (the best areas for regular climbing are in the wet West, and there is too little local climbing for regular mileage). Particularly given how bad 2011 was, this is definitely a factor. Actually, thinking back to 2008 and how the temporary cessation of climbing increased my weight then, it too is a main factor.

Less active scene around me:

Related to both of the above, the climbing scene around Sheffield and the Peak District is strong and diverse (if curiously reluctant to escape the Peak itself) and I usually had enough people to climb with and friends to train with and even do fitness stuff with, which was of great benefit to keeping me going and keeping me motivated. In Glasgow the climbing scene is insular and limited and it's been a struggle to find friend people to fit in with. Eventually I have found a few people to regularly climb and train with, but not so many of them, and no-one to do fitness stuff with. When I do have people encouraging me and inviting me out and sharing mutual syke, I know it helps me keep active (beyond just having people to do routes with), so this is definitely a factor.

So:

Age, Diet - NOT factors.

Inability to exercise - The MAIN factor.

Medication, Less regular climbing - Other MAIN factors.

Less active scene - Additional factor.

Next time: What I can and am doing about this. Or trying to.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4957796009803862424?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Chilling at Craigmaddie.
Post by: comPiler on March 28, 2012, 01:00:06 pm
Chilling at Craigmaddie. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/03/chilling-at-craigmaddie.html)
28 March 2012, 9:19 am



More Scottish summer! A quick dash slow grind out of the city for an evening deposited us at Craigmaddie. I'd been put off going there by the description of it being sandy gritstone, envisaging coarse granular crustiness that would shred my tips especially on a warm evening. Is it like grit?? Is it bollox!! It's a sandstone, almost identical to North York Moors (and bits of T' County), and nothing like Pennine grit. Which made for a surprisingly pleasant circuit even in the mellow sunshine.

I only went to the upper left wall but really enjoyed the fine location, excellent landings, nice rock, and good cranky problems. Typically the guide and online topo are confusing and seem to describe lots of things apart from the obvious natural problem lines. Thankfully they don't take much working out, and this edited topo should help.

1. The Mantle V3 - Good.

2. Left Crack V1 - Nice.

3. ??? V3? - Eliminate up right crack?

4. ??? V2 - Pull on at obvious jugs, reach up to RH crimp and adjacent LH hold, heel hook to top. Good.

5. ??? V4 - Pull on at LH ripple and RH crack pinch, pull up to small flat crimps and direct up to apex. Excellent.

6. ??? V4 - Pull on at LH crack slot and RH large crack, high RF then compress directly up to better holds and final reach. Very good.

7. Lip Traverse V? - Hang nose slopers and use various holds to get into corner crack?

I'm not really sure how these relate to:

Right Crack - doesn't seem to follow the crack and there doesn't seem to be a RH sidepull.

Flake Wall - doesn't seem to have a natural flake to start on nor a sharp crimp you'd gain with LH, nor a dyno. Could be a good link between 4 and 5?

Undercut Crack - doesn't relate to line but does fit the description of 6 above. Could be a good link between 4 and 6?

Right Arete - doesn't seem to exist.

...but at any rate the climbing is nice once you work it out :). I'll definitely be back for the other craglets too.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2815722495084440874?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 30, 2012, 03:23:15 pm
Compiler, you missed out my post celebrating an ace weekend at the Gairloch crags  :spank:

It was a suitably positive post too, next thing people will have missed it and start accusing me of being negative or some bollox like that  :spank:
Title: Curing the Heavyweight...
Post by: comPiler on March 31, 2012, 01:00:10 am
Curing the Heavyweight... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/03/curing-heavyweight.html)
30 March 2012, 5:20 pm



Following up the fatness....and the issues causing it:

Age, Diet - NOT factors.

Medication, Inability to exercise, Less regular climbing - MAIN factors.

Less active scene - Additional factors.
What can I do about these issues??

Age: Not an issue but at any rate I don't intend to age gracefully at all!

Diet: Although this is not a factor, it is, unlike sealed veins, something I can change, and I can improve my diet even more compared to my lighter Sheffield time. I have various aims listed to try to have a habitually healthier diet to compensate for the difficulty in improving other areas. These are all simple stuff in the "eating less junk and fat, eating more healthy lightweight food" vein (ugh, veins).

Medication: I have, over several months, halved my dose of Citalopram (to 10mg, apparently below the clinical dose). This has been unpleasant and stressful and my general mood is often agitated and anxious - these are issues I naturally feel well before any beneficial improvements in weight which will obviously take time and exercise. However I get the instinct that my weight gain has stabilised at least, and I have more determination to improve it.

Inability to exercise:

Despite the difficulty of these there are a few options I'm trying with varying degrees of determination and success:

1. Going to the gym: I can do recumbent cycling, rowing, and arm cycling, and burn off a fair few calories that way. The problem is I mostly hate the sterility of the gym, and the leg exercises are still fucking hard work. I'm trying to keep determined....more drum'n'bass mp3 mixes help.

2. Going swimming: This is absolutely fine, in fact post-DVTs I've swum longer distances before. The problem is I find it more boring, if shorter, than going to the gym, AND hard to be syked for in the bleak Glasgow weather. I'm trying to get motivated to go more often, maybe warmer weather will help.

3. Doing very short bursts of running: Although it is a horrible process and I can really do fuck all, I'm sure the little bits still do something. The problem is it inevitably unpleasant and particularly demoralising that I can't progress at all. I'm trying to view it in a different way as just keeping my body moving and tailor it down in that way.

4. Keeping trying to go to crags with medium walk-ins: Although attempting longer walk-ins is pointless, I want to accept the difficulty of even medium walk-ins and keep doing them, although it's tedious it makes for a more beneficial day out. The problem is it is simply always unpleasant, regardless of the logistics, the constant exhausting and dull pain is offputting in itself. I'm trying to tailor down the walking, with more rests.

5. Other options?? I'm not really sure...

> Skiing would be great as it is very inspiring and fun, seems very active, but somehow my legs cope with it.

> Maybe more hill-walks when the weather is good? Less horrible than walk-ins with a rucsac.

> Someone has suggested shorter bursts of sprinting with longer rests, I should try that.

> Someone else suggested "aerocap" climbing training which I think means dicking around on jugs for ages, I'm not sure how much fat that would burn off but at least my legs would cope.

Fuck. How could I forget...

6. Raving! Somehow dancing to gabber or techno is fine on my legs, I assume DnB would be too. Only problem is lack of club events I like and being out of touch with what's on. I really need to rectify that.

Less regular climbing:

As hinted at before (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/radical-changes.html), I have realised the importance of a regular climbing lifestyle for me overall health as well as my personal inspiration. Working towards this is....kinda complex, but at least with the realisation and inspiration it has given me some strong ideas, including moving somewhere with better weather and more suitable local cragging, setting up logistics to make climbing easier, going for regular mileage days out even if they aren't always as inspiring, working on grander plans for the future, and simply being more focused on climbing.

Less active scene:

Not really sure about this one. I can't really create activity companionships out of thin air, and have often struggled to fit into regular climbing partner scenes. I;m not sure what else I can do except keep in touch with people, try to hang on to supportive partners, and try to keep a positive attitude. Although again moving somewhere with a better and more encouraging scene than Glasgow would probably be good, and that is likely to be part of the overall plan. Maybe I could try joining some physical activity clubs too...

So...

Overall, despite the odds stacked against me and my fitness, there ARE various areas I am working on (or at least trying to), and I DO have plans to improve my life and activity in the future....because I want to....because I have to.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-6833920478272382953?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: north_country_boy on April 02, 2012, 11:24:16 am
Although again moving somewhere with a better and more encouraging scene than Glasgow would probably be good, and that is likely to be part of the overall plan.

Think you are showing a disservice to the Glasgow 'scene' to be honest. I think you get out of the 'scene' what you put in...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 02, 2012, 12:52:19 pm
I've tried. Most climbers seem to be in their own groups already. I guess coming from Sheffield, things were bound to be very different up here.

TCA has improved the vibe a lot though.
Title: Aberdeen Assault.
Post by: comPiler on April 02, 2012, 01:00:11 pm
Aberdeen Assault. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/04/aberdeen-assault.html)
2 April 2012, 8:35 am



Many of the Aberdeen sea-cliffs, despite being sunny, open, and enjoying a much less malevolent climbing than the rest of Scotland, have a ridiculously short climbing season. Thanks to the pesky and permanently incontinent seaburds, you can only climb on some of the best cliffs in late winter - nesting birds making them completely inaccessible in spring and summer, and bird's nests making them mostly unfeasible in autumn. Scottish climbing is never simple, eh!

Last winter I had a few good trips up exploring otherwise birded crags, but did miss out on a few classic venues. This winter I've focused mostly on collecting elbow injuries i.e. bouldering and training, and have suddenly realised that I have at most a week or two to get to those venues before the birds do. Thus a last minute dash to Aberdeen last weekend, to meet with my SC2 partner in silver league, "Vulture", and KathrynC.

The Round Tower. It's mostly square.

Saturday was Round Tower. Non-birdy, reasonably sheltered, but cold air. When the sun briefly appeared it was great conditions, otherwise a little chilly for steep trad. But determination and peppermint tea kept us going. I did the superbly exposed Ramadan (the arete above!), the classic guidebook covertick of Tyrant Crack, and the funky wee wall climb of Silver Surfer. Brad also led the former two, and since Tyrant Crack was a longstanding wish of his, there was much satisfaction all round, culminating in a take-out curry and chocolate naan bread which I was too full to eat but made a great snack on...

These are Silkies. There were no Silkies at Silkie's Cliff.

...Sunday. Which was Silkie's Cliff. The original plan was to go to Arthur Fowlie and Silkie's, but incoming rain reduced our options to a quick hit. We still managed 5 routes total at sheltered Silkies, albeit the last one was finished in the rain. There was a silver lining to that particular sodden cloud, as despite the lack of Silkies, we did see porpoises. I was pleased with a good wee E3 route, Kathryn was pleased with her first VS of the season, and overall it was a good weekend. I'm hoping to get back up later in the week if the weather allows, as I'm still syked for Arthur Fowlie and Berrymuir / Red Band cliff. Fingers crossed!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4546605289647189611?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: north_country_boy on April 02, 2012, 01:50:35 pm
I've tried. Most climbers seem to be in their own groups already. I guess coming from Sheffield, things were bound to be very different up here.

TCA has improved the vibe a lot though.

Each to their own I suppose, but having made the same move 18months ago I actually think its a much friendly scene than Sheffield.
Title: Ardnamurchan Adventure.
Post by: comPiler on April 17, 2012, 01:01:04 am
Ardnamurchan Adventure. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/04/ardnamurchan-adventure.html)
16 April 2012, 6:16 pm



I was due to go to Ardnamurchan in 2009. Friends had a cottage booked but the last minute forecast showed consistent showers. I paid for my place and backed out gracefully. Seeing their photos later, it showered pretty much every day. I was also due to go at some other point with the Pylon King, but he begat the Pylon Prince and became fixated with Wye Valley esoterica (worrying even by my low standards). It's taken a long time to actually get there but I finally managed this weekend with a small Glasgow team. It also takes a long time to get there full stop: Easy to Glen Coe, fun across the Corran ferry micro-crossing, endlessly tedious on single track roads until the edge of the Scottish mainland. I'm grateful that Tom was driving. But once you get there, well...

...it's a fucking volcano!

It's pretty rad really. Climbing along the rim of a volcanic caldera, walking through the centre and seeing the crater arcing around you. All ancient and extinct of course??

Don't worry, it's only a heather fire, and it blew out fairly quickly on the second day. Funnily enough, I was in Wester Ross last April when the Torridon fires kicked off and drove through the glen as Liathach was on fire above a highly out-gunned lone fire engine, and now I was in Ardnamurchan this April for a smaller but no-doubt worrying hill fire. Coincidence?? Honestly, guv!

Day 1 was the drive-in day via an alpine start and "tolerable" coffee at the Green Welly stop, so the team decided to go for the accessible Achnaha buttress (10 o'clock on the rim). Shorter routes and a shorter walk-in, I'd wanted to go there anyway. To be honest it was pretty disappointing. The walk-in wasn't too short but the routes often were, as well as some obscure overgrading. Bondi Beach and Wheesht! were more substantial, and despite having a cold and pump-induced wobbler on the latter, I was chuffed to get it done as I'd seen a photo of the first ascent in On The Edge ages ago. Old inspiration being sated once again, which pleases me greatly.

Day 2 was the longer walk-in and longer routes of the Meall-An-thingy crags (1 o'clock on the rim), which require a stomp across most of the crater but are pleasingly adjacent once you're based there. Both the length of the walk and the routes were less than appeared, as a good track and only gentle undulations made the former fairly tolerable for me (I was trying walking poles for the first time and despite feeling like a complete dome using them, I think they do help, taking the edge of the exhaustion), and the curvacious crests of the crags made the routes taper off into easy ground fairly quickly. Not a venue for sustained mega-pitches, but vastly better than the "roadside" crag and a great gabbro experience in a lovely location.

The only downside was the peril of a less travelled venue, at least on the harder routes. I rattled off Up Pompei (above), and Mirka (which is interestingly photo-featured in SMC's Scottish Rock with the wrong route caption "Minky", not even mentioned in the text, and unspeakably bad beta in the photo, bravo), and fancied a sterner challenge so tried The Great Euchrite... This turned out to be only one full grade undergraded, but that grade makes the difference between certain groundfall from slopey 5c crux moves a fair way above an RP0 in a shallow seam even if the RP held which it wouldn't, and, well, not groundfall. I chose "not groundfall" and somewhat embarassingly had to be rescued from a small rest (rest....my feet and calves still hurt today) ledge. Somewhat letting the side down, but a useful lesson about maintaining wariness of such offpiste routes.

And that was that. Another cool venue explored. :)

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-3279804514326111187?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Desired Days...
Post by: comPiler on April 19, 2012, 07:00:07 pm
Desired Days... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/04/desired-days.html)
19 April 2012, 10:40 am



North West trips

Lewis - 6 days

Dalbeg - 1 day

Mangestra - 1 day

Painted Wall - 1 day

Other areas - 3 days

Skye - 5 days

Neist - 2 days

Rubha Hunish - 1 day

Elgol - 1 day

Staffin Slip - 1 day

Wester Ross - 5 days

Gruinard - 1 day

Tollie Crag - 1 day

Diabeg - 1 day

Tollaidh/Stone Valley - 1 day

Reiff - 1 day

Caithness - 1 day

Sarclett/Mid-Clyth - 1 day

Glen Nevis - 3 days

Wave Buttress/Meadow - 1 day

High Crag - 1 day

Road/Scimitar - 1 day

Creag Dubh - 2 days

Great Wall - 1 day

Barrier Wall / Waterfall - 1 day

TOTAL: 22 days (in an entire spring/summer/autumn)

Other trips:

Other venues - 3 days

Cummingston - 1 day

Rosehearty - 1 day

Pass Of Ballater - 1 day

Aberdeen area - 6 days

Whisky Cliff - 1 day

Berrymuir - 1 day

Johnsheugh - 1 day

Floor's Craig - 1 day

Red Tower - 1 day

Other venues - 1 day

Local - 4 days

Glen Lednock - 2 days

Glen Croe - 1 day

Roslin Glen - 1 day

TOTAL: 13 days (when it's raining in the North West)

...

35 days...

...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5013645827802259270?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Random thoughts.
Post by: comPiler on April 24, 2012, 07:00:14 pm
Random thoughts. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/04/random-thoughts.html)
24 April 2012, 4:23 pm



It is raining and my mind is wandering. I can't train in the rain hardcore because my elbow is definitely fucked. Exactly the same as 2008 except this time it's my right elbow. I guess that means my left elbow has healed up pretty well since 2008, as this time I'm sure the injury is just general over-training (TCA + beastmaker campussing + cold days out on nasty reachy shite like Ley quarry), rather than a specific move on a specific arm. Which shows some promise if I can stick to the long term theraputic regime of regular gentle climbing, avoiding aggravation, massage, ice/heat, and eccentric wrist curls. Ideally the regular gentle climbing would be lots of trad days out....did I mention it was raining??

So wandering on to some thoughts...

1. Went to Ratho last weekend. Hadn't been for a month. Stamina sucked but not too bad. Falling practise felt surprisingly easy despite not having done any in the meantime. This is good. Hopefully I can train my mind hardcore (.....ish!!).

2. I really wish I'd been aware of the retrospectively bloody obvious idea that I can do single day trips to Glen Nevis and Creag Dubh in the last two years. I went up a few weeks ago, the plan was to solo some easy-but-bold routes, I got scared and did fuck all apart from the ace V4/5 wall on the boulders. That was scarey enough. The point being I felt like I had loads of time at the crags despite being sandwiched in between long journeys....and could have easily done plenty of trad. So....why the fuck not?? I've always had this idea that I've got to get a couple of days in to justify the drive, but fuck it, this is Scotland, you just have to drive as the weather and crags demand it. So that's the plan this summer. Assuming there will never be 3 consecutive dry days in Fort William (as per last summer), I'll do it in 3 single day trips!! The price to pay....fuck loads of petrol money :S. But what other luxuries should I spend money on?? Drum and bass CDs....err....hmm.

3. I need to remember the importance of sea-cliff conditions and in particular sea-grease. Not sure why this has occured to me. Oh yeah, I've been thinking about future challenges on both the invariably pokey Aberdeen sea-cliffs, and other greater sea-cliff venues in general. Lots of harder routes inspire me and the rock and vibes are often as good as the approaches are gentle. But the prescence of ace rock can't guarantee the abscence of a filmy coating of sea-skank... And I need to remember that and adapt my challenges to suit. And take loads of chalk.

4. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=32205 This report from Southern Man is quite inspiring, on the subject of having an epicly screwed up driving-climbing ratio but it still being worth it to follow inspirations. Not that I'd do some rambly mountaineering choss like Direct Nose Route, but as per the Nevis/Dubh daytrip idea, I think I need to start putting more effort in to going further afield for shorter times....it might not be as neat nor as economical as getting everything done in a harmonious long weekend, but eventually it will add up and get more inspiring routes and venues ticked off. Which = awesomeness.

Meh. Still raining. Laterz.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Lines Of Lust
Post by: comPiler on April 25, 2012, 07:00:07 pm
Lines Of Lust (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/04/lines-of-lust.html)
25 April 2012, 1:19 pm



Inspiration + desire + challenge + exploration + variety...

Lewis:

Dalbeg:

Tweetie Pie Slalom  E5 6a ***

Limpet Crack  E3 5c ***

Neptune  E2 5c ***

Blessed Are The Weak  E5 6a ***

Various routes

Mangestra:

The Prozac Link  E4 5c ***

Various routes

Skye:

Neist:

Supercharger  E3 5c **

Wish You Were Here  E2 5b ***

Have A Nice Day  E3 6a **

Golden Shower  E4 5c ***

American Vampire  E4 6a ***

Fight Club  E3 6a ***

Rubha Hunish:

Whispering Crack E3 5c ***

Northern Exposure E2 5b ***

Elgol:

Digitalis E3 5c ***

Mother's Pride E4 5c ***

Staffin Slip:

Various routes.

Caithness:

Sarclet:

Occam's Razor E4 6a ***

A Paddler's Tale E3/4 5c ***

Reiff:

Headstrong E4 5c **

Wyatt Earp E3 6a ***

Crack Of Desire E3 6a ***

Various routes

Wester Ross:

Tollie Crags:

Each Uisge Direct  E4 6a ***

Murray's Arete  E3/4 5c *

The Shimmer  E4 6a **

Loch Tollaidh Crags:

Flag Iris  E4 5c **

Various routes.

Stone Valley Crags:

Demon Razor  E3 5c *

Flashing Blade  E3 6a **

Gruinard Crags:

How The West Was Won  E3 5c **

Stand And Deliver  E4 6a **

Diabeg:

Edgewood Whimper  E4 5c **

Porpoise Pun  E3 5c **

Wall Of Flame  E4 6a ***

Instant Muscle  E4 6a **

Rough Justice  E2 5c *

Glen Nevis:

On Some Beach  E5 6a ***

Freddie Across The Mersey  E5 6a **

Crackattack  E3 5c ***

Mutant  E4 5c **

Triode  E5 6a **

Risque Grapefruit  E4 5c **

Fingertip Finale  E4 5c *

Precious Cargo  E5 6a *

Creag Dubh:

Colder Than A Hooker's Heart  E5 5c **

Harder Than Your Husband  E5 6a **

The Final Solution  E5 6a **

Acapulco  E4 5c ***

Bratach Uaine  E4 6a ***

Case Dismissed  E3 6a ***

Ayatollah  E4 6a ***

North East:

Moray Coast:

The Prow  E5 6a **

The Essential  E3 5c ***

Senakot Rose  E4 6a **

Old Fashioned Waltz  E3 5c *

Aberdeen Coast:

Red Army Blues  E4 6a **

Downies' Syndrome E4 6a **

Sair Fecht  E3 6a **

The Pugilist  E4 6a ***

Johnsheugh routes

Various other routes

Pass Of Ballater:

Peel's Wall  E4 6a ***

Smith's Arete  E5 6a ***

Central Highlands:

Glen Lednock:

No Place For A Wendy  E2 5b ***

Pole-Axed  E4 6a **

Gabrielle  E4 6a *

Diamond Cutter  E3 6a ***

Glen Croe:

Edge Of Insanity  E4 5c **

Short Sharp Shock  E4 6a **

 ...so much of it, and so little dry weather.

This is is partly to remind myself and partly to keep aware what I need to train for.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5344011472193798810?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Ian T on April 25, 2012, 08:40:13 pm
Well what can I say, I did 6 of your Skye routes this weekend. Must have got lucky with the weather I guess...

Fight Club was a bit sweaty and nearer E4. Add Inanimate Objects Fight Back to your list, it's one of the best pitches at Neist.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 25, 2012, 09:37:45 pm
You could say... come and live in the North West so you can go climbing there loads. Maybe.

IOFB is also a brilliant name. Thanks for the tip on Fight Club, it did look hard from below.

Why wasn't I in Skye last weekend? I had Sheffield friends up in Northumberland and wanted to meet up with them for the social and to reaffirm climbing partnerships. I can't remember the forecast but can't remember it looking guaranteed amazing enough to both sack off meeting my friends AND to justify the 5 hours drive compared to 3 from Ullapool.




Edit: On my blog I posted the grades (but not starts) in very small font, that doesn't show on here. Hmph.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 25, 2012, 10:42:01 pm
Also these routes are mostly major challenges for me, especially with my current fitness. I need to stack the odds in my favour with both conditions and preparation - I am trying to get to a state of readiness where I can just nip up for the weekend and rattle them off, but it can be hard.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Ian T on April 25, 2012, 10:45:59 pm
I'm only teasing, but my point is, you keep saying on your blog that it's raining, but that's not so. It's that the forecast isn't good enough to justify the journey. Which is fine, but don't keep saying it's raining.

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: robertostallioni on April 25, 2012, 10:53:23 pm
"Raining in My Heart" Buddy Holly (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLeZof1wGps#)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 26, 2012, 10:05:56 am
I thought the journey/weather factor was implicit enough! It's generally dire in Glasgow but there's no problem getting to Dumby....if I wanted to, but I'd much rather go to the North West because I love the climbing and the area.

Since it seems you don't like me complaining about the weather (which is just me calling it how I see it....exactly the same as I post happy and excited blogs whenever I get out into those great climbing areas), do you have any advice that can help me with getting the most out of climbing in the North West??

Obviously MingTFU and readily doing a 10 hour round trip (which I always seem to be the driver for) for a weekend is one thing and now the days are a bit longer I'm prepared to do that. Training lots and always feeling ready to tackle my NW inspirations is another thing, again I'm trying to do that although it's hard. Back up plans of Caithness / Moray etc are fine too (albeit not right now!).

Anything else??
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on April 26, 2012, 10:54:10 am
Phone service provided by North West Outdoors for up to the minute weather reports? Although I've noticed that sunny skies over Loch Broom don't always equate to nice weather on the other side of An teallach!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Ian T on April 26, 2012, 04:40:26 pm
I'll be sending you some nice happy suggestions and beta when I get the chance.

Title: Pondering on purchases...
Post by: comPiler on April 26, 2012, 07:00:11 pm
Pondering on purchases... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/04/pondering-on-purchases.html)
26 April 2012, 2:45 pm



Maybe time to upgrade a bit...


Almost all of that is to replace my current older, heavier gear, to make my gear lighter = less weight in rucksack = easier to do walk-ins = more energy at crag = bigger numbers = more fun.

Except for the C3 cams, these are to replace my 9 year old size 0 and 00 Camalots which are getting fairly trashed (average 2-3 lobes on each has had a snapped and repaired trigger wire!), and to give me more options at smaller sizes.

I was considering getting a few Oval krabs for racking wires, but they tend to be bulky and heavy, so for the moment I will stick with the notchless Black Diamond Positrons from my current quickdraws, as the notchless wiregates seem to be a bit angular shaped to be worth buying as racking krabs - unless anyone has any suggestions.

At some point I might get 2 x Omega Link cams, to give me more options for longer and variable protection routes. Obviously these are pretty heavy and would negate some of the weight loss above but they are the only additions I think would be truly useful. I'd also consider Wild Country Superlight Rocks to replace my second set of smaller Wallnuts but I'm not sure they'd be that much better.

These are very carefully considered purchases to enhance my climbing and help compensate for the issues that inhibit it. Maybe time to stop pondering and actually purchase...

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: csl on April 26, 2012, 09:03:07 pm
I've got superlight rocks as doubles for my smaller wires, I'd recommend them. Often go places walnuts won't. And i wouldn't bother with ovals for racking, easy to get confused which way up they are. I always find old solid gate d shape crabs the best for racking, in fact i'd recommend crabs with a notch, can loose wires off a notch less one pretty easy.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 26, 2012, 09:42:30 pm
Yeah fair point about the Superlights. I don't find myself that stuck for wires with 2 x 1-6 wallnuts, tiny hexes and a full set of peenuts and rps, but I can see their benefits, especially the squarer profile. Will start to monitor my wire placing and see if they could be beneficial.

My wires are on notched gate krabs at the mo, I have occasional problems with wires getting snagged on the gate so I think notchless will suit me better. Might see if there are super light notchless Ds available (i.e. not Alphas).
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on April 27, 2012, 09:22:45 am
What size omegas are you considering? Worth looking at the metolius supercams if you want something to cover a wide range. We've got a big one if you want to borrow it for a play next time you are up here.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 27, 2012, 10:31:26 am
Small purple and medium red. I used them in Sweden and found them pretty useful. I think the principle is sound that on most non-Utah routes, you don't need many extra cams, but you could need any size. Also they are totally fun to play with when you're bored waiting for partner to rack up etc ;)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on April 27, 2012, 11:25:20 am
Yeah, that was why I got the supercam; should I ever accidentally stray onto a wide crack (i never intentionally go near them!) it's good to have something covering a really wide range to fire in.  Especially hand in long mountain routes where you don't want o have to lug a couple of big cams along. Plus they are fun to play with!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Ian T on April 27, 2012, 01:15:03 pm
Looks pretty primo for this weekend. Crags are all pretty dry. It is cold but anything south facing should be fine.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on April 27, 2012, 01:39:29 pm
Wellies or Waders for walk ins though!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 27, 2012, 02:48:47 pm
Thanks Ian, have been glued to the Ullapool/Portree forecasts. And thank fuck have got someone to meet up with.

Wellies never leave the car....although with walking poles I seem to be able to spring over bog patches okay ;)
Title: Weak in Wester Ross
Post by: comPiler on May 03, 2012, 01:00:38 am
Weak in Wester Ross (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/05/weak-in-wester-ross.html)
2 May 2012, 9:06 pm



First things first: The new blogspot site / post composition is utterly fucking rubbish. Very user-unfriendly, obscure menus, normal post options made inconvenient, switching between compose mode and HTML mode is broken (randomly adds loads of line breaks in some cases), compose mode with photos produces a load of bloated HTML that takes ages to edit. Just like Metoffice's truly appalling disaster of a new "site" and Facebook's ridiculously bad Turdline farce, this is another site with a redesign specifically to make things harder and annoying for users. Take note Blogspot - you normally provide a good service, but you fucked up this time. Please stop it.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-prw0vaOUa8Y/T6GTHLXWBtI/AAAAAAAAAvo/ahpDCxxb9lg/s400/diabegview.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-prw0vaOUa8Y/T6GTHLXWBtI/AAAAAAAAAvo/ahpDCxxb9lg/s1600/diabegview.jpg)

Anyway this is a blog mostly about climbing (and occasionally trying to educate people with properly good dance / metal music), and I did some climbing recently. 2 days in glorious sunshine at Loch Tollaidh and Diabeg. Always a pleasure to visit those areas, even if Diabeg is a bit of a polished trade crag - which I nimbly avoided by doing some lesser-known classics. Unfortunately I also nimbly avoided any semblence of progression or challenge or getting on and putting some effort into things. I just didn't have any OOOMPH. There might be a few reasons: tired from early start and long drive, tired from rubbish nights sleep and general worries, lack of power training due to elbow, general weakness due to elbow, lack of warming up on suitably ooomphy routes. But really there was also a tedious lack of determination and ooomphing the fuck up. At the end of the day I had plenty of fun and it was a NICE weekend (the highlight being Phil's choice of an exceptionally good local game terrine for a picnic lunch), but I felt I missed out on giving more effort to the climbing and reaping the rewards.

As a slight aside, I popped out locally recently with new local Jade and fleetingly visiting old skool gnarler Duncan (who has been climbing for nearly as long as I've been alive, maybe there is hope for me yet!). Limited to local, we cruised to Craigmore and took advantage of the fresh breeze brushing through the shrouding trees. Just a couple of routes each, but it was an interesting experience on Spinal Wall -  I had scrubbed the breaks on this a few years ago and never got back to lead it. However now someone has thoroughly cleaned it, in a "wirebrushing the entire sheet of rock" sort of way. Fair enough as it should get a lot more attention and is possibly the most substantial lead up to and including it's grade at the crag. I had vague recollections of lots of little cam and finger breaks....obviously too vague as they all seemed to be thin, flared, and rounded!! Thus requiring some care with the cams and some tenacity with the fingers.

In other news my elbow is still properly fucking tweaked. I am trying to maintain a good balance of climbing and resting and theraputic exercises, although annoyingly taping across the injury site seems to be mashing up the other side of my arm with the tape cutting in :S. The weekend away was okay, the cold cranking at Craigmore was much less okay. Ugggg.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SLg9q3DhFMg/T6GTTiqaMwI/AAAAAAAAAv4/nt2NMqiqqR0/s400/fiend_spinal1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SLg9q3DhFMg/T6GTTiqaMwI/AAAAAAAAAv4/nt2NMqiqqR0/s1600/fiend_spinal1.jpg)

Spinal Wall gurn

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-38a9D4ctGgo/T6GTb3UdNgI/AAAAAAAAAwA/FvBPSTBkBJY/s400/fiend_spinal2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-38a9D4ctGgo/T6GTb3UdNgI/AAAAAAAAAwA/FvBPSTBkBJY/s1600/fiend_spinal2.jpg)

Spinal Wall grunt

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PCJDHz9m5YA/T6GTKmgaDhI/AAAAAAAAAvw/9OQwfxMkvJ8/s400/fiend_flakecrack.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PCJDHz9m5YA/T6GTKmgaDhI/AAAAAAAAAvw/9OQwfxMkvJ8/s1600/fiend_flakecrack.jpg)

Flake Crack

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Going Nowhere in Glen Nevis
Post by: comPiler on May 09, 2012, 07:00:15 am
Going Nowhere in Glen Nevis (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/05/going-nowhere-in-glen-nevis.html)
6 May 2012, 11:42 am



A flying visit to Glen Nevis, testing out my single day trip theory. It worked fine time-wise: I had a reasonable and non-Alpine start (although the weather had some Alpine potential....snow storms at Crianlarich, but glorious from Glen Coe onwards....and then exactly the reverse on the way back), climbed on 3 different buttresses across the Spectrum of Polldubh (Road > Scimitar > Nameless), recced a few other buttresses, was back in the car at 7 and back to Glasgow in daylight. Thus one can easily fit in plenty of climbing....or plenty of dicking around being a punter, if one is so inclined.

I am NOT that way inclined but it is the situation I find myself in. I have strong and genuine desires to push myself on some challenging and exciting routes, and once again I feel a world away from the physical and mental state to do so. This time, despite a winter building up finger strength, a reasonable transition into stamina training, plenty of trad mileage recently, a good top-up session purely for finger stamina this week, and a relaxing active rest Friday, I failed utterly on having enough finger stamina to do an easy but bold route. I lowered off (skyhooks!) and was disappointed not with failing to do the route, but just being so physically weak and pumped.

On the plus side, I did one pleasant warm-up route, and one very good steady route on Nameless (Diode, a brilliant hidden classic), usefully recced some other routes, and now have the opportunity to ponder on why I am climbing so mediocrely and what I can do about it. What springs to mind is:

1. Relative lack of climbing specific training: Although I have been gymming and walling okay, I have been taking it a bit easy due to my elbow, and think I have lost some pure climbing strength/endurance/stamina.

...Last week's TCA finger circuit session felt okay on my elbow and seemed to be a good training balance, so I will do more of that, more regularly, to keep my fingers strong whilst hopefully avoiding overtaxing my elbow.

2. Reduction of Citalopram dose and possible increase in anxiety: Not sure if this is a factor but it could well be affecting my confidence overall.

...I will keep up with the falling practise down the wall, and also maybe outside IF I fail on a safe route I can practise jumping off onto gear (not skyhooks!). Regular climbing mileage might help too.

3. Other distractions: Maybe!

...Am working on sorting those out, and in the meantime, easing the pressure on myself to progress and keeping my hand it should set up a good basis for pushing myself later on.

I think in general getting some mileage in should be pretty useful and pleasurable at the moment, and luckily there are still plenty of places for me to explore and enjoy - Reiff, Skye, Sheigra area, even back to Glen Nevis and Ardnamurchan - without restricting myself to major challenge inspirations. So that might be the best plan for now, while keeping aware of when I feel ready to push a bit harder.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: B0rked Bouldering.
Post by: comPiler on May 12, 2012, 01:00:08 am
B0rked Bouldering. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/05/b0rked-bouldering.html)
11 May 2012, 8:40 pm



Apparently my bouldering hitlist for this winter was:

Pump Up The Jam, various - Skye - never got there

Razorback, Romancing The Stone, various - Reiff - nope, had a look, was cold and windy and Razorback looked horribly reachy dyno bollox.

Various - Reiff In The Woods - nope, had a look, failed on everything but got close to the cool roadside wall, never got back though.

The Ship Boulder - Torridon  - never got there

Blankety Blank - Torridon - never got there

Various - Cammachmore - never got there

Big Lebowski, The Dude - Ruthven Boulder - never got there

Brin Done Before - Brin Rock - never got there

Deep Breath Arete, Hamish, various - Glen Nevis - nope, DBA was uninspiring lip traverse with bad landing, Hamish looked stupidly sandbaggy, did lots on the other side of river.

Pyramid Lip - Glen Ogle - never got there

??? - Loch Sloy - never got there

Swap Meet, Ace Of Spades, various - Glen Croe - nope, had a brief look but only did easy stuff.

The Bottler - Loch Lomond - never got there

Nameless Pimp Toy - Stronlachlar - never got there

The Chop - Weem - never got there

Various Corrie Boulders - Arran - never got there

Suck My Woolie, Snow White - Garheugh - never got there

Wow! 0% success... Epic mega-fail. Or mega epic-fail. I have even impressed myself this time, with my ability to not only avoid getting up any of these problems, but to avoid getting on them and even getting anywhere near the location. I did have good days at Shaftoe, Queens, Carrock Fell, and Glen Nevis Southside though. Just strange how I managed to avoid all the things I intended to do!

Given the weather - hardly the tropical trad weather window May mostly brings - it is still quite possible that there will be good conditions for some of these. But of course I'm too injured for most if not all of them, although a select few might be attemptable with care....I shall see...

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Nice Neist.
Post by: comPiler on May 21, 2012, 07:00:10 pm
Nice Neist. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/05/nice-neist.html)
21 May 2012, 5:23 pm



Finally got back to Skye this weekend, after only a year and half of trying to get back since September 2010. Finally got back to Neist, which is still awesome. I love many things about Neist....it's the furthest Westerly point you can drive to in Scotland, it has a proper end-of-the-earth feel, the backdrop of imposing choss cliffs is dramatic.....but the highlight is the view out to sea, a simply stunning panorama of the Outer Hebrides as far as the eye can behold...30 miles away and stretching for over 100 miles. And then beneath all of this you've got a ring of dolerite crags and sea-cliffs, tapering around the headland to the Neist lighthouse, only interrupted by the prominent pinnacle of An T'Aigeach...

http://hqworld.net/gallery/data/media/137/neist_point_lighthouse__isle_of_skye__inner_hebrides__scotland.jpg

(copy and paste to address bar)

...on which I finally got to climb Supercharger - this happens to be the route up the front of the pinnacle, but in a rarity for me, the actual route is secondary to the summit tick. Many tourists gain the tick by a casual stroll, we did that, abseiled straight down, and regained it via a variety of good climbing, bad climbing, imposing sections, easy rambling, grassy grappling, and occasional perched blocks. A satisfying adventure that went pleasingly smoothly.

On the second day we stuck to the strictly "good climbing" style and went down to the classic-cluttered Financial Sector, full of sheer single pitches that always give....good value ;). Having done some of the harder climbs there, I mostly bimbled through the day, aided and abetted by now being a team of 3, and a shoddy night's sleep in the cold tent. The one remaining challenge had bad rock at the top, so I left that alone and stuck with some steadier but good climbs - all enjoyable though.

So another weekend of pottering and treading water, but a more satisfying one than some due to the excellent and long-desired location. Glasgow to Neist makes a mightily long weekend of driving, but being familiar with the areas did allow us to get climbing pretty swiftly. It's tiring overall but if that's what it takes to make use of these distant areas, sobeit.

I still need to work on pushing and progressing my climbing. The current mileage will no doubt help....and hopefully the inspiration of exciting venues can summon the determination to be truer to my climbing desires.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Ian T on May 22, 2012, 11:58:01 am
Nice one Fiend, but you could of saved all that petrol money by just going to Auchinstarry   ;)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on May 24, 2012, 10:35:49 am
Hush  :spank:

Now where is good cragging in the North West when it is stupidly hot??

Current list is:

Rubha Hunish
Staffin Slip
Kilt Rock

Tollie Crag (/Loch Maree etc)

Reiff Bouldering Cliff
Reiff Leaning Block Area

Sheigra 1st Geo (/2nd Geo in morning)

Caithness (in afternoon)

Anything else??
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Ian T on May 24, 2012, 11:08:56 am
Avoiding a long approach you've got most places on your list.

You could add the following
Loch Tollaidh (shade till mid-afternoon)
Gruinard Crag (shade till mid-afternoon)
Bay of Pigs (shade till mid-afternoon)
The Balcony, up near Ridgeway View Crag (shade till mid-afternoon)
Creag an Fhithich (shade till mid-afternoon)
Creag Shomhairle (maybe too far for you) (shade till mid-afternoon)

Do you see a pattern here? Scotland faces north west.

Unfortunately. to add a further complication, the shade loving midge has reared it's ugly head.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on May 24, 2012, 11:23:10 am
I even felt it's fair caress whilst in the back garden this week.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on May 24, 2012, 11:54:09 am
Cheers Ian, had considered most of those....Scotland does indeed face North West. Went to Creag Nan Shormalie pre-DVTs, pretty good change from Sheigra. Keen to get to the Balcony, only minor but sounds very nice.
Title: Getting Nuked in Glen Nevis.
Post by: comPiler on May 24, 2012, 01:00:06 pm
Getting Nuked in Glen Nevis. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/05/getting-nuked-in-glen-nevis.html)
24 May 2012, 10:07 am



Fuck me it was hot out there. The temperatures must have doubled in a few days, from huddling in vest+t-shirt+hoodie+beanie+downie on Skye, to melting in just shorts (+ compression stockings) in Glen Nevis. Ridiculous....obviously this is glorious height of summer weather which is all rather nice, but it does take some adjusting when spring lasts 2 days! All of which might explain why we ended up sitting in the Clachaig at 6pm drinking lime and soda and Grozet gooseberry wheat beer instead of crushing les crags. This was after a day of slogging up to Wave for the second time in a row, realising that On The Beach would be particularly unwise in my current state and the weather's current climate, doing Crackattack the easy way instead, and having a generally good time climbing, so we could justify some relaxation.

Although I'm shying away from the harder climbs on the wonderous Wave, exploring around the Gorge itself has cemented other inspirations: Aquarian Rebels and Quality Street in particular, with the Gorge Crag for warming up en-route. The best rock in the Glen and the best scenery...

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Iw1t5ElvOt4/T74H8kZ9ycI/AAAAAAAAAwM/LlUp6nEkEHU/s400/stelll.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Iw1t5ElvOt4/T74H8kZ9ycI/AAAAAAAAAwM/LlUp6nEkEHU/s1600/stelll.jpg)

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-3595746457182439636?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Scorching on Skye
Post by: comPiler on June 01, 2012, 07:00:05 pm
Scorching on Skye (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/06/scorching-on-skye.html)
1 June 2012, 12:18 pm



Second weekend in a row, racking up about 1200 miles total. But it's a miraculous slice of spring / summer / searing sunshine, so it's worth it. This time I assumed that the North East facing sea-cliffs of Trotternish would be a great escape from the sun. This was partly right, apart from Staffin being a great escape from any form of breeze and thus a haven for midges as well as sweaty shade-seekers. So we went swimming off the slipway and for an excellent cafe lunch in the Granary Restaurant in Portree instead and I had a nap and slogged up to the Old Man Of Storr which is the most bizarre and Alien landscape in the UK and Staffin stays on the wishlist along with further days at Neist and Elgol.

This rest day was sandwiched between some highly rewarding crack climbing at: Kilt Rock, which contains one of the 3 so-called "essential" bits of climbing I was belligerently determined to avoid in Scotland, Grey Panther (along with the over-hyped Reiff, which I have been to and enjoyed despite it being obviously inferior to Caithness, Sheigra, Ardmair, Gairloch, Gruinard etc, and Etive Slabs which still have no appeal). In it's defence Grey Panther did look very good when I abseiled down (apart from the shocking amount of crack-avoidance going on, looking at the chalk), so I did Edge Of Beyond and Skyeman instead. Rubha Hunish, the most Northerly point in Skye (Neist is the most Westerly, the Easterly and Southerly don't have any promoted climbing), where I did the intimidating but utterly excellent Whispering Crack, which took some determination to get on but a lot of pleasure once on it, and finally:

An Sgudan (sp!) boulders beneath the Cuillin, where after an epic slog in in my underpants (I now have burnt thighs with a pantline), I flashed the 10m 8m tape-up tapeless hard-as-nails pretty easy 7a V4+ mega-classic Pump Up The Jam. In the end there was very little climbing per day but it was great enough to be worthwhile. I'm feeling a bit less punterly, my elbow feels good in the heat, and I'm taking advantage of the weather.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2387657769466042292?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Shivering at Sheigra.
Post by: comPiler on June 07, 2012, 07:00:12 pm
Shivering at Sheigra. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/06/shivering-at-sheigra.html)
7 June 2012, 12:48 pm



...well at least it gave time for the sunburn to settle down! This time the temperature halved in a few days, but once again the weather stayed dry enough to have a great trip away. I'm not going to be complaining about Scottish spring and early summer this year - I've had 18 days away in the North West so far!! This trip was more North than West, taking advantage of the 4 day weekend (enough to turn anyone into a royalist) to tackle a Sheigra mission.

And it was some mission to start: We left from Perth in Simon's van, the A9 was closed so we had a grindingly slow detour via Fort William, getting to Inverness so late that we had to crash out in the dogging spot (plenty of COCK FUN on offer apparently - but I didn't see any....who knows what happened in the back of the van though...) just past Garve. This turned out to be a blessing in disguise as the van's clutch started going at Inchbae. Simon managed to limp it to Ullapool, where of course it turns out the clutch/gearbox work would be hideously expensive and maybe could be started the next Wednesday. Gulp.  Tried to find a hire car in Ullapool - none available. Get a bus back to Inverness - the only buses are timed to coinicide with the Stornoway ferry and arrive just after all the hire companies close. Taxi (!) - £80. Double gulp. But....as we were enquiring in the tourist information office, the lady's partner casually said "Oh yes I'm going to Inverness soon, I'll give you a lift just after I've had me breakfast". What a GENT. We got a nippy little Astra from the airport, cained the fuck out of it back to Ullapool, packed it to the brim with all our kit, and resumed the journey, 5 hours later and one van down. Got to Rhiconich, got to Rhiconich Crag, a nice wee sheet of undulating gneiss, and...

...

...CALM. Calm and syke and the simplicity of good climbing after all that debacle. Did a few routes, went to the Rhiconich Bloodstone, did a few boulder problems, went to the Scourie campsite (very nice, good value, good vibe), ate a few meatballs (okay a lot of meatballs), had a few hours sleep (okay several, but not enough!). The days then followed a similar pattern: wake in the morning to 4am sunrise and rain showers, grumpily go back to sleep, wake again a few hours later and realise everything was dry, brave the bracing breeze and go climbing on great gneiss, inland or sea-side. Second Geo was as good as usual, The Balcony was a great hidden gem slab, the Akita Boulder was surprisingly where the guide said it was and a great bit of rock somewhat marred by atrocious climber-crushing landings and amusing "Dave Macleod tries to grade V4s" grades, our fingertips couldn't cope anyway, and the First Geo was as fucking STEEP as usual but I managed to scrape up Monkey Man by the skin of my teeth - or more like the skin of my hands....I lost a lot of it in the undercling jam "rest". Having backed off the start of MM on my previous Sheigra trip in 2008 (then with a fucked left elbow rather than a fucked right one), this had been a main goal for the trip (despite not being a very big number, it is clearly adjectivally harder than steady slabs like Unleash The Beast at Ardmair and Big Country Dreams at Cambusbarron!), and I'd been worrying about having enough fitness, determination, and the right rock conditions to get it done. A fitting end to the trip.

Not sure what the weather is doing next....but at least I'm narrowing down my aims for the next 4 months: Week in Lewis (tricky), long weekend on Orkney/Yesnaby (tricky), 3 days on Skye (doable by weekends), 3 days around Reiff (doable by weekends), and the usual Gairloch / Glen Nevis / Creag Dubh / Aberdeen bollox (all weekend or even day trip friendly). So only two logistically difficult trips. Just need to keep organised and keep fit (my climbing is still fairly balls but getting a bit better with the mileage I think).

P.S. No photos as the blogspot photo inclusion thing is so bloody awful, I can't be arsed fighting with it, go here instead: http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.html?id=4478

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-6940576892105845318?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Lack Of Velociraptors at the Lost Valley
Post by: comPiler on June 11, 2012, 07:00:06 pm
Lack Of Velociraptors at the Lost Valley (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/06/lack-of-velociraptors-at-lost-valley.html)
11 June 2012, 1:46 pm



I have put up with many....difficulties....using Bouldering In Scotland. Approach times and maps have been taken with a pinch of salt, grades, lines and descriptions with a shovelful (although surprisingly the descriptions for the Lost Valley are spot on....and the grades are only 2 grades out). Although it's got me to some great locations, it's often taken trial and error and imagination to get on some great problems, and I've put up with that (mostly by whining about it on this blog). But this time my patience has run out...

"When you finally step down into the Lost Valley after a hike through the gorge of Allt Coire Gabhail, you might expect to see Velociratpors running around in packs, such is the hidden mystery of the place."


Well it might be full of hidden mystery, but I didn't see ANY Velociraptors. Not a single one. Nor Brontasaurii, Diplodocii, Stegadons, Triceratops, Tyranosaurs, not even a fucking Pterdaton.

WHERE ARE THE FUCKING VELOCIRAPTORS??

I WANT MY VELOCIRAPTORS!!

HMPH.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8776971392245156504?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Rapid Reiff Raid.
Post by: comPiler on June 14, 2012, 07:00:11 pm
Rapid Reiff Raid. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/06/rapid-reiff-raid.html)
14 June 2012, 3:41 pm



Rapid indeed - Saturday morning until Sunday night. For all the traditional Reiff convenience, it has a certain atmosphere at 8pm on a grey, windy Sunday, standing above The Leaning Block facing an hour walk and a 5 hour drive with little chance of a hot dinner. Tiring, but worth it.

So Reiff, somewhere I had belligerently intended to avoid it as it's one of those "essential" cragging places that everyone whitters on about even though it's not quite as good as it's neighbours of Ardmair, Gairloch/Gruinard, Caithness, Sheigra etc. I went for a few days in 2010, the popular Pinnacle area seemed to confirm suspicions of being overrated, but the further one gets away from there, things improve exponentially in proportion to walk-in length - that hour trek to the Peninsula being a landmark for me as the first time I braved the now immensely fashionable shorts and compression stockings look, and was rewarded with the very good sandstone cragging up there.

Saturday was the Stone Pig cliff. It has a stone that looks like a pig by the parking, that is enough for me. The highlight was: Headstrong - after a huge tantrum resting on Sonique (god I really do suck at this super-steep trad bollox), Headstrong went totally smoothly, and despite being a grade over had some great climbing, the moves to, onto, and above the rest ledge being some of the best I've done recently.

Sunday was the Peninsula area, and after a good long warm-up at the delightful and only slightly steep Golden Walls, the highlight was heading over and doing: Headlong - despite only aiming for a mileage day had seen that the Aberdeen old skool gnarlers had done this the other weekend and....well it was chalked up, the tide was out, I was warmed up, I had to try it. Again it went pretty fine after the "kick in the bawbag" starting moves, really nice to do the easiest line up a big sheer face.

Pretty glad I headed up really. I am feeling slightly less like a complete fucking bumbly now. Although this week I've had little chance to maintain momentum, with minor food poisoning, a day in bed and another day doing little. Still it's proper rest for my body....and a bit of weight loss....and encouraging me to eat light healthy stuff for a while....will hopefully hit the ground crags running cranking in a bit...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-742000270447081681?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Skye Strike.
Post by: comPiler on June 20, 2012, 07:00:11 pm
Skye Strike. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/06/skye-strike.html)
20 June 2012, 1:34 pm



5th dry weekend in a row, 20 days climbing in the North West this spring (forecast looks to be bolloxing out for a bit so I am really glad I persisted in making the most of the freakishly dry weather), 3rd trip to Skye in those 5 weeks, and the trip in which I finally wrapped up most of my inspirations from Autumn 2010.

Poverty Point, Neist - My ticklist was, in order: Golden Shower (whichever one the rear pillar is in Gary's fucked up ordering), Bad Dream, maybe Fight Club, and just possibly American Vampire. After semi-warming up on various thrutches and generally feeling somewhat knackered, I shocked myself by grinding up the least likely American Vampire, the hardest route I've done since Rat Race last Autumn. The gentle angle of the start gave me enough momentum to "give it a look" and once I was involved the prospect of overhanging hand-jamming was enough reward for me to commit through the route. At the top I had a stitch from the exertion and a lot of grazes :). Golden whatever will have to wait for another time...

Staffin Slip - My aim was mileage and/or giving Jugs Of Deception a go, well I gave it a go but since it was pumpy, blind, committing, relentless and generally a bit fucking hard, I didn't do it but I did the mileage thing instead, 45m each of Gorbachev and Woman Of The Eighties felt like bloody miles especially the latter which was quite an epic battle. Rounded off the day with a couple of shorter jamming delights but unfortunately just missed dinner at the splendid Granary Restaurant in Portree, oh well more tuna pasta heavily seasoned with midges at The Slig.

Suidhe Biorach - My clear desires were Digitalis and Mother's Pride, the former I was pretty confident and relaxed about, the latter I was just plain shitting myself about, remember how I moan about super-steep Scottish trad, will this motherfucker has pride of place in the steep trad stakes. Well it was worth the mental effort of getting on it - the first roof is a battle and probably the crux, the rest niche is plentiful, the second "roof" is a technical delight, and the arcing top wall is as super-juggy as it is super-steep. There's even a perfect jamming rest squatting on a wee knobble, all of this perched well out above the sparkling sea. Just brilliant. Digitalis is equally brilliant, great wall climbing with a spot-on "just enough" crux. A great end to a great trip.

~€~

Each day on this trip I faced a good challenge, mental or physical or both. Each day I managed to get fully focused and engrossed in the challenge, and each time I really enjoyed the state of mind and the climbing situation I got into. Now I finally feel that I am climbing a bit more normally, a bit truer to the inspirations and challenges I enjoy. Now it's time? to focus on a few other things, but also to try to capitalise on my climbing with additional training (wall, gym), some diversification (sport, bouldering), and quicker but hopefully equally intense fixes of day trips and weekends. This trip has wrapped things up nicely and at the moment I feel in a good state for progression via a flexible focus.

Going along with this, I did learn some useful lessons:

1. Oooomph and determination - I've been worried about the lack of this in my climbing, and thus a lack of confidence to tackle harder routes. I think this is perhaps a chicken and egg situation....I generally haven't been tackling harder routes, so I generally haven't needed much ooomph....so I generally haven't had any! Just getting on some challenging routes this weekend seemed to bring out the required determination by virtue of simply being in that situation and rising to the challenge.

2. Breathing - I seemed to both forget to breathe quite often when seconding and then find things distinctly hard, and also sometimes really focus on my breathing while shaking out during lead climbing battles and then find things distinctly improving. A clear and unsurprising lesson perhaps, but having some awareness of it over consecutive routes highlights it as something useful to focus on.

3. Footwork - Watching my partner Ross, a young hotshot from Ratho (but thankfully skilled and competent on the trad despite a tendency to forget ropes and probably his head if it wasn't attached to his body), I tended to notice how much he focuses on digging his feet into the tiniest of footholds (and therefore gets up routes, including ones I'd struggle with). My technique is good and my footwork fine, but I still could be more confident and trusting with small footholds, so maybe I can take that on board....if one can teach an old dog new tricks, hmmm...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8825504160335549441?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: ShortRound on June 21, 2012, 08:57:15 am

 ;D Strong, positive blogging there Fiend.

It's nice to see the impact a sustained period of dryness has upon a climber's wellbeing.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on June 21, 2012, 11:08:01 am
Thanks  :) It's been a positive time....I'd forgotten just how good Scotland can be when it stays dry...
Title: Current Concepts.
Post by: comPiler on June 27, 2012, 07:00:15 pm
Current Concepts. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/06/current-concepts.html)
27 June 2012, 12:12 pm



It's raining. A lot. The forecast is dire. I have stuff to do. I'm still totally syked for cragging but that has to be on the backburner. In the meantime there are a few things to consider:


That's it really....keep training....keep open to all the various days out options....keep careful....keep syked.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-5919756272202435519?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Keeping my hand in #1
Post by: comPiler on July 18, 2012, 01:00:06 pm
Keeping my hand in #1 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/07/keeping-my-hand-in-1.html)
18 July 2012, 10:06 am



In accordance with my general plan of keeping training while circumstances and weather are preventing proper trips, I had a flying visit to Aberdeen over the weekend. After a couple of weeks of fairly regular indoor wall, and less  regular gym training, I wanted to keep my hand in on the trad, and of course just do some fun climbing ;). No big plans, just a weekend of steady mileage on surprisingly dry rock in surprisingly good weather. Hidden Inlet, Promontory Wall, Dykes Cliff - all the classic Aberdeen hallmarks of short, steep, pokey routes with fiddly gear and either obscure moves or shocking pump for their size, or sometimes both. An acquired taste which I still find curiously irresistable, and intricate enough to keep a good trad focus.

I actually got quite syked in the end, and I'm assuming that if the weather reverts to Met Office's ominously predicted "normal conditions" i.e. being fucking shit in North West Scotland, then the East coast will get some respite and I might be back there more often. Which although it's a consolation prize is no bad thing as I have quite a few inspirations along that coast.

My elbow has been fairly sore recently. 2 weeks ago it was fine when I was doing 3 gentle sessions at TCA. Last week I went to Ratho and it was sore (not sure why?) and again doing row weights on Wed (a bit of a mistake) and again on a slightly stiffer circuit at TCA on Thu (overuse by then). The weekend it felt tweaky with the odd nagging pain, but I was careful with warming up and massage, and I think the Easy Trad(tm) was fine as the last two days have been better. I think I got a bit carried away with the TCA training - again! I had to start off easy because I was such a fucking punter after not training for ages, and then climbing-wise I moved smoothly on to more challenging circuits, but I don't think my elbow was quite ready for that. I need to stick to more stamina stuff, if I can find anyone to go to the bloody lead wall with!

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-3133751773967677827?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Keeping my hand in #2
Post by: comPiler on July 22, 2012, 01:00:04 am
Keeping my hand in #2 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/07/keeping-my-hand-in-2.html)
21 July 2012, 8:21 pm



Another brief day out, this time at The Pass Of Ballater. Did a couple of easier routes, felt fine on them, felt on reasonable trad form, and that's what I really needed to know. I had hoped to get on some harder routes there but the conditions were pretty odd. Sunny and cloudy, breezy and still, cool and muggy, dry and sweaty. It just didn't feel the right time to push harder. The Pass is a funny place. I've realised I don't actually like the granite much - awkward, angular, and polished, and thus pretty conditions-dependent - but I do really like the look of some of the harder routes there - Peel's Wall, Smith's Arete, Cold Rage and Doctor Dipso - which take more stylish lines up more elegant rock. Unfortunately neither I nor the weather were up to those lofty tasks today, so The Pass remains a sort-of project crag for me, despite it's seeming crag convenience I will have to carefully take advantage of just the right time (a cold, fresh time!) to make the most out of it. Ah well.... More mileage somewhere else next time.

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8793608665738102350?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Keeping my hand in #3.
Post by: comPiler on July 30, 2012, 01:00:12 am
Keeping my hand in #3. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/07/keeping-my-hand-in-3.html)
29 July 2012, 8:38 pm



Same as before, but in ever decreasing circles of localness, this time ending up at Limekilns, sandwiched between a late start, a torrential storm, and seasoned with only the briskest of breezes. Just another afternoon mileage route out, and I did manage to get a few routes done as well as getting inspired for future challenges. A couple of steady routes and a slightly harder that got my surprisingly pumped for a vertical wall. All good training, and adding in a different style to previous weeks, so the hand is kept where it should be, in the rock (ideally in a good jam ;)).

Hmmm, if the horrible new Blogspot interface isn't too much of a dick, I might even have some photos...

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KlQYVr1oc5s/UBWe-LjoONI/AAAAAAAAAwY/jB5Z4i0ijXg/s320/fiend_lime1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KlQYVr1oc5s/UBWe-LjoONI/AAAAAAAAAwY/jB5Z4i0ijXg/s1600/fiend_lime1.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-os5ZmaPqL2k/UBWfG7mdsLI/AAAAAAAAAwg/LIOaf0ft_jg/s320/fiend_lime4.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-os5ZmaPqL2k/UBWfG7mdsLI/AAAAAAAAAwg/LIOaf0ft_jg/s1600/fiend_lime4.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VC2SxVBtybE/UBWfNJC1F1I/AAAAAAAAAwo/PWEYDW-5ARI/s320/tree.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VC2SxVBtybE/UBWfNJC1F1I/AAAAAAAAAwo/PWEYDW-5ARI/s1600/tree.jpg)

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-8663088911999872326?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Pulling my finger out #1.
Post by: comPiler on August 08, 2012, 07:00:16 pm
Pulling my finger out #1. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/08/pulling-my-finger-out-1.html)
8 August 2012, 5:39 pm



....hopefully the next stage in this year's slow progression. I've trained over winter, got injured, had a good spring getting back into the trad, stayed injured, trained more steadily over the last couple of months, kept doing sporadic trad so I don't forget how to fumble wires in and get scared, and now I have the opportunity to hopefully capitalise on that. And I'm still syked!!

This last weekend was the start of the next stage: Getting more focused on the trad and starting to push myself a little bit, in volume and intensity. I had an enjoyable but very slow trad progression over the spring - although I got out lots on some great days, it took weeks and weeks to feel confident and determined to tackle harder climbs. Now I do feel more confident, but it's tempered with a caution that a slow pace might be required, so I'm giving myself the opportunity to do that, with slightly more intense mileage.

The weekend was good, constant monitoring over the weather forecast (THAT is why I finally got a smart phone) allowed us to avoid both the torrential storms that swept across Central Scotland, and the swarming hordes of midge death that would have driven us insane if I hadn't revised Northern Highlands North enough to find a useful East-facing crag. An evening at Rhue, a day at Road Crag and Gruinard Crag, and a short day at Morning/Evening Walls (rather good little crags) gave a good variety of venues and routes, a few of which I pushed myself on and did pretty well :).

Next time: More cautious crushing, I hope.

In the meantime, here's a toad:

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3dSP3xQqPRM/UCKkJjFOFtI/AAAAAAAAAw4/6LtANraTqIU/s400/toady1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3dSP3xQqPRM/UCKkJjFOFtI/AAAAAAAAAw4/6LtANraTqIU/s1600/toady1.jpg)

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-4434216866761820437?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Pulling my finger out #2
Post by: comPiler on August 16, 2012, 01:01:08 am
Pulling my finger out #2 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/08/pulling-my-finger-out-2.html)
15 August 2012, 8:55 pm



Apparently I have been on this last weekend trip. Forgoing the inevitable delights of the North West, I headed back into the furthest North East and the hidden delights of the Caithness coastline, the only delights of note in this otherwise curiously soulless area of the country. The seacliffs themselves are a curiosity, reasonable of access, diverse of rock type, full of great routes and empty of fellow climbers. More fool them, because in my now 9 days total climbing in the area, I have concluded that it is really bloody good, for all the aforementioned reasons.

This last visit I have perhaps reached the pinnacle of my climbing in the area, as I managed to climb my longer-term desires of Occam's Razor and A Paddler's Tale. The former was particularly enticing in line, situation, and the promise of a distinct crux around a jug with rests before and after. It all went pretty smoothly, the crux took some working out but was reasonable, the rest after took a long time to get to but the finish was easy and fun. The latter was climbed pretty much by accident - abseiling down at the end of the day, it was still, midgy, and the rock was getting smeggy, the route looked steep and intimidating, so I only started up for a look, with the firm intention of getting scared and retreating into the adjacent chimney. Somehow I completely failed to do this and somehow I managed the climb. Quite a surprise and a real bonus after Occam's.

That was pretty much my raison d'etre for the 9 hour round trip, but in an extended weekend I also managed to fit in introducing Geoff to the delights of Mid-Clyth and getting a wee bit of mileage myself, introducing Brad to the delights of Ardmair and getting a wee bit of mileage myself (and a lot of inspiration for future visits, I'd forgotten just how relentlessly good Ardmair was), and introducing James and Colin to the delights of Loch Tollaidh and getting a wee bit of mileage myself. I probably could have kept my finger out and stopped bumbling around on mileage, but I was pretty knackered by the time I headed back West, so just coasted along on my Sarclet success and relaxed a bit.

Actually, the knackeredness was probably a harbinger of things to come. I now have the punterflu again, due to being too punterly. This is not particularly welcome at this time of year (or at any fucking time!) but I will just have to ride it out with a lot of rest and recuperation and a bit of training and a bit of getting back to the action soon.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F2wRwnwGQ3g/UCwMBmKiVvI/AAAAAAAAAxI/x8j-ITnfT-g/s400/fiend_ard1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F2wRwnwGQ3g/UCwMBmKiVvI/AAAAAAAAAxI/x8j-ITnfT-g/s1600/fiend_ard1.jpg)

Above: Chillaxing at SOFTmair on a bright and breezy day.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eWy_ZlFT28E/UCwMLV3Ip9I/AAAAAAAAAxQ/kKazvcmMZX4/s400/gruinardpano.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eWy_ZlFT28E/UCwMLV3Ip9I/AAAAAAAAAxQ/kKazvcmMZX4/s1600/gruinardpano.jpg)

Above: The glorious Gruinard Bay (visited on a previous weekend), with about a dozen good crags in view!

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Title: State of play.
Post by: comPiler on August 17, 2012, 07:00:06 pm
State of play. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/08/state-of-play.html)
17 August 2012, 3:35 pm



2/3 of the way through the main trad season and my route list is looking as follows:

...

Lewis: - not got to yet!

Dalbeg:

Tweetie Pie Slalom  E5 6a ***

Limpet Crack  E3 5c ***

Neptune  E2 5c ***

Blessed Are The Weak  E5 6a ***

Various routes

Mangestra:

The Prozac Link  E4 5c ***

Various routes

Skye:

Neist:

Supercharger  E3 5c ** - unrefined but a good adventure

Wish You Were Here  E2 5b *** - quite stiff and rather good

Have A Nice Day  E3 6a ** - saw detatched holds from WYWH, decided no.

Golden Shower  E4 5c ***

American Vampire  E4 6a *** - exhilerating and exhausting jamming

Fight Club  E3 6a ***

Rubha Hunish:

Whispering Crack E3 5c *** - fantastic mega-pitch, loved it.

Northern Exposure E2 5b *** - no time and put off by rock.

Elgol:

Digitalis E3 5c *** - brilliant, perfect crux.

Mother's Pride E4 5c *** - brilliant, quite steady, amazing second pitch.

Staffin Slip:

Various routes. - did several, good value good mileage.

Caithness:

Sarclet:

Occam's Razor E4 6a *** - great, quite steady, good position.

A Paddler's Tale E3/4 5c *** - great, sustained cruxes, not sure how I made it in greasy conditions.

Reiff: - more to go back for!

Headstrong E4 5c ** - steady but rather cool, good moves.

Wyatt Earp E3 6a ***

Crack Of Desire E3 6a ***

Various routes - did Headlong E4 5c ***, excellent wall climb.      

Ardmair: - added to list because it's awesomeNeart Nan Gaidheal E5 6a ***Twisting Twitcher E3 6a **Burning Desire E5 6b ***

Wester Ross: - not really got there in the right weather

Tollie Crags:

Each Uisge Direct  E4 6a ***

Murray's Arete  E3/4 5c *

The Shimmer  E4 6a **

Loch Tollaidh Crags:

Flag Iris  E4 5c **

Various routes.

Stone Valley Crags:

Demon Razor  E3 5c *

Flashing Blade  E3 6a **

Gruinard Crags:

How The West Was Won  E3 5c ** - cool, was a bit unsure about parts but a rewarding pitch.

Stand And Deliver  E4 6a **

Diabeg:

Edgewood Whimper  E4 5c **

Porpoise Pun  E3 5c ** - good bold wall climbing.

Wall Of Flame  E4 6a ***

Instant Muscle  E4 6a **

Rough Justice  E2 5c * - more like ***, great pitch.

Glen Nevis: - been going further North instead but need to get to soon!

Aquarian Rebels E4 6a ***

Quality Street E3 6a ***

On Some Beach  E5 6a ***

Freddie Across The Mersey  E5 6a **

Crackattack  E3 5c *** - pretty cool, worked out the easy way.

Mutant  E4 5c **

Triode  E5 6a **

Risque Grapefruit  E4 5c **

Fingertip Finale  E4 5c * - backed off as too scared of horizontal swing onto skyhooks.

Precious Cargo  E5 6a *

Creag Dubh: - been going further North instead but need to get to soon!

Colder Than A Hooker's Heart  E5 5c **

Harder Than Your Husband  E5 6a **

The Final Solution  E5 6a **

Acapulco  E4 5c ***

Bratach Uaine  E4 6a ***

Case Dismissed  E3 6a ***

Ayatollah  E4 6a ***

North East: - been going further West instead but need to get to soon!

Moray Coast:

The Prow  E5 6a **

The Essential  E3 5c ***

Senakot Rose  E4 6a **

Old Fashioned Waltz  E3 5c *

Aberdeen Coast:

Red Army Blues  E4 6a **

Downies' Syndrome E4 6a **

Sair Fecht  E3 6a **

The Pugilist  E4 6a ***

Johnsheugh routes

Various other routes

Pass Of Ballater:

Peel's Wall  E4 6a ***

Smith's Arete  E5 6a ***

Central Highlands: - been going further North instead.

Glen Lednock:

No Place For A Wendy  E2 5b ***

Pole-Axed  E4 6a ** - horrible rock and approach.

Gabrielle  E4 6a *- horrible rock and approach.

Diamond Cutter  E3 6a ***

Glen Croe:

Edge Of Insanity  E4 5c **

Short Sharp Shock  E4 6a **

...

Which means:

1. I've done a great job of getting to Skye and a decent job of getting to the North West. Finally getting to grips with Skye sea-cliffs is a big tick off my list.

2. I've eventually managed to work up to doing some more challenging climbs and hopefully this can continue to the rest of the season.

3. I've still not managed to get to Lewis and will make that a priority next time weather and partners coincide.

4. I've generally ignored the closer / Easterly / more weather-sure options in favour of heading North West, but there are still plenty of things that inspire me in those areas so I will need to get more focused on those venues too.

5. There's still plenty of routes to do including the North West, but many of them are at cool-weather-friendly crags so hopefully will be in condition later into Autumn.

6. There's probably some more training I can keep doing to top up my climbing to tackle some harder routes, so far I can think of:  


Unfortunately I've still got punterflu which is driving me mad as I'm still syked and want to train and climb and not just rest up like a fat gelatinous lump of mucus!! It should be over soon...

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Tradless Training
Post by: comPiler on August 24, 2012, 07:00:05 pm
Tradless Training (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/08/tradless-training.html)
24 August 2012, 4:07 pm



The last couple of weeks have featured a lot more punterflu recovery and general relaxing than proper climbing involving cracks and nuts and stuff. But I have managed the odd bit of pottering to keep active if nothing else:

Kishorn Boulders - great location, great rock, great selection of easy problems. Mid-grade stuff a bit less described managed a few cool problems (see below).

Ardmair Beach - a nice circuit here, did a few things I did before and a few things I didn't. I like the Ardmai roof problems, although they are all fairly similar, it's good fun having the trickery involving powerful crimping and devious heel-toes, rather than grunting around sloping lips.

Tom Riach - wow this is erratic as erratic comes, a highly singular bloc of conglomerate casually dropped in a forest a long way from it's nearest potential origins at The Camel or Moy. A nice circuit of "easy" wall climbing which is quite cranky and crimpy, good fun.

Ratho - first time training for ages, and I did okay. As part of "angular overcompensation", I stuck to mostly steep stuff, in the hope that when I get back to the horrors of Rosehearty or South Aberdeen schist, they will seem less outrageously overhanging in comparison. In theory...

Legaston Quarry - meh. Back here for the first time in 9 years and it might be 9 years before I can next stomach it. I kinda like the idea of the sandstone wall climbing in theory, but relentlessly morpho climbing and a veritable turd of a mis-grading system reduce my enthusiasm pretty quickly. Oh well on to some TRAD next I hope :)

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Covesea Crushing.
Post by: comPiler on August 27, 2012, 07:00:05 pm
Covesea Crushing. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/08/covesea-crushing.html)
27 August 2012, 5:31 pm



Hands on the good edge beneath the roof. Grab the big fat pinch with left hand and bring right hand into the angled finger jam slot in the roof crack, thumb in to the crag, little finger away from the crag. Lean way out and reach left hand around to the sharp rib running up from the jutting block ledge from the lip. Right foot on the good edge, and try to reach the high slanting ridge with the right hand....can't reach, drape hand on non-hold and slap left hand higher up the sharp rib. Lunge and get the right hand on the small ridge, bring right foot to smear on fat pinch and desperately flail left foot around on the lip until it can be teased on to the jutting ledge. Match hands on the small ridge area and grunt into a rockover to a victory stance on the ledge.
If you don't want the beta for Urban Gorilla (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=107016) at Covesea, don't read the above paragraph! Although really it is quite easy to work out from the ground (the only difference from what I had precisely planned was a lower right foot and higher left hand for the crux reach). This was probably the highlight of a rather good day at Covesea - it was a line that definitely inspired me, but definitely played to a couple of my weaknesses of long reaches and pulling around roofs, thus a satisfying surprise to do it, and do it well (I guess I find it easier to commit to hard moves when there is perfect protection next to me and a big rest coming up ;)).

Other highlights included Bottle Republic (actually E3 5c but a good **), Dancing In The Dark, Banana Republic which were less challenging but equally high quality in both strong lines and strong climbing. The time of Covesea being mis-regarded as a sandy, dodgy, greasy esoteric backwater is OVER, and the now 11 routes I've done there confirm that.

As a punctuation to the day we also went to Tarlair, following the enticement of the guidebook photo. This turned out to be more of a line of dots or random ungrammatical squiggle rather than a satisfactory exclamation mark to the day. The sheer face of smooth rock and hard grades put an end to both the so-called warm-up route and any further challenges. Although I did learn I need to be able to detach myself from grade expectations and try to fight harder on the actual challenge, irrespective of how ludicrous a sandbag it might be.

On the plus side, since the crag sits below the infamous 13th hole of the Tarlair golf course, I did find 8 golf balls beneath the crag!

Today it rained, we got one route in early in the morning, recced Cummingston for future challenges (still inspiring, I definitely like the sandstone!) and had a spectacularly good moccaccino with whipped cream at the Mambo cafe in Aviemore.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Battered at Ballater.
Post by: comPiler on August 31, 2012, 01:00:12 pm
Battered at Ballater. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/08/battered-at-ballater.html)
31 August 2012, 11:37 am



Battered - arms and shoulders still tired.

Bloodied - ground-up little fingers from fingerlocks.

Broken - a cracked torn nail from falling over and bashing my finger.

Bruised - swollen and stiff knuckle on the same finger.

Beaten - by 2 out of the 3 challenging routes I tried in a day.

Finally a day at the Pass in good fresh conditions - a slice of mid-autumn crispness at the end of August, maybe a sign of things to come? - but was it enough....not quite. It's still just plain hard there, and despite (or perhaps because of!) the short gritstone-esque style of climbing, I still don't feel that comfortable with it. But I've given it a good go, and that's something. Also, despite twice as many failures as ascents, it was actually a decent and interesting day.

I warmed up, inadequately, and tried Doctor Dipso, a cool, short, open wall climb, and failed just before easy ground due to being immovably pumped. It was very close  - with a bit more determination I could have done this. But with a bit more cunning I would have not paid too much attention to a veteran E6 leader with 20 years experience of Aberdeen climbing who said it was "not pumpy really", and warmed up a lot better. Although the style of climbing suited me well, the sustainedness definitely warranted a further warm-up. I need to heed that.

However that dismal failure was a warm-up in itself, so when I got onto Cold Rage next, it was a different story - after several times up and downclimbing at the lower (and hard!) crux, and a lot of huffing and puffing in the upper groove before a merciful back and footing rest, I managed to grind my way up this exhausting and satisfying route. Despite the hard unnerving start, having a good rest above and sensible gear for the rest of the route made it mentally comfortable if physically tiring - and the experience made the day worthwhile.

Finally, I mentally tossed a coin as to whether I had enough energy and dry skin and light left to try Peel's Wall, lost the flip and failed on the route. This was one time when I should heed the E6 Aberdeen veteran who said it was okay (it's not) but a bit pumpy (fucking pumpy). Equally I shouldn't have heeded rumours of it being safe and technical - it's only safe if you can place the very limited gear, instead of being totally out of balance on the lower flake, or blocking the crucial wire placement in the upper with fingers. A nasty experience trying to avoid groundfall potential before I could get to slump on the gear. Maybe I was a bit tired from other routes, but I definitely need to heed warnings of pumpy, and be wary of local climbs with local gear placements!

So: Warm up better, be warier of pumpy routes, don't take protection for granted. Don't go back to Ballater for a while!

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Aberdeen Assault
Post by: comPiler on September 07, 2012, 07:00:06 pm
Aberdeen Assault (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/09/aberdeen-assault.html)
7 September 2012, 5:45 pm



As I suspected the weather has turned to balls in The West - regular checking of Fort William and Ullapool forecasts shows only sporadic days of thick grey cloud and humid south-westerly winds to provide intermittent respite from light or heavy rain as the weather gods deem fit. I still keep my hopes up for the odd two day trip to Wester Ross, or the famed but elusive one day hit for Glen Nevis, but in the meantime I've initiated my Plan B: The East, including the Aberdeen Coast, Moray Coast, Central Highlands and Lowlands. Whilst this doesn't have the seemingly endless choice of excellent rock that the North West does, it does provide a curious variety of interesting rock types (or more like an interesting variety of curious rock types!) and plenty of surprisingly enticing challenges.

Following tangential warm-ups at Covesea and Ballater, and some emergency "steepness over-compensation" training on the Ratho comp wall, I had a few days in the area this weekend, and briefly they went thusly:

Red Tower & Grey Mare Slabs: Nice day by the sea, visited two crags to give Simon a good taster of the gnarly granite, and did a few classic routes - Neanderthal Man and Vulture Squadron both being worth an extra star for their sustained quality. I tried something harder but was a bit too warm. Will be back!

Berrymuir Head: Nice day by the sea but curiously too greasy. Warmed up, failed on some slopey thing, Simon didn't fare much better on his route, so we called it a day after a couple of easier things. Curious that sun and a seemingly fresh breeze didn't give good conditions, but chatting to a local local afterwards confirmed my suspicion that the SW breeze was just too warm and humid.

Johnsheugh: Nice day by the sea and this time much fresher so had an ace day out. This revamped crag is where all the cool kids hang out, and even uncool unlocals are allowed here so I was keen to sample 25m of diverse bulging wall climbing, and certainly did that with a steady warm-up and 3 fine and satisfying routes.

Coble Boards: Nice day by the sea and still pretty fresh, the NWer getting even this crag in decent nick (not quite decent enough for the burly Jihad whose slick angled slopers are tucked under a sheltering roof). Is it a bunch of coblers? No it's quite a cool wee crag in a nice setting with a good viewing platform. The routes are short steep and sometimes pretty weird so classic Aberdeen schist then. We had fun and saw a pod of at least 6 dolphins cruising south along the coast.

Next on the agenda: Berrymuir in fresh conditions, Floors Craig, Sickle Row, Whisky Cliff, Rosehearty...

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Creag Dubh Diversity, Brin Rock Rambling.
Post by: comPiler on September 10, 2012, 01:00:14 pm
Creag Dubh Diversity, Brin Rock Rambling. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/09/creag-dubh-diversity-brin-rock-rambling.html)
10 September 2012, 9:48 am



Another weekend not in the North West, but not that far away either. The sinuous A9 pass bisects the Central Highlands and the Dalwhinnie to Inverness arc curves determinedly enough from the Fort William direction to the Ullapool direction to align itself with the North West, the quality of the climbing available confirming that. Weatherwise it seems somewhere in between and guessing the forecast for Creag Dubh is a matter of triangulating the Aviemore, Fort Augustus and Fort William forecasts (old Metoffice site, of course), and having a little faith.

That faith was rewarded this weekend, with dry and breezy weather and reasonable conditions, even a bit warm in the sun on Saturday! So how did I end up completely drenched mid-afternoon? Belaying under the Waterfall buttress waterfall, that's how. Whilst the climbing was dry the breeze was strong enough to provide intermittent showers and spray at the base....the novelty wore off by the time my downie was soaked, and put me off doing any of the harder routes there, although I am more inspired than ever. I did manage a couple of fine and highly contrasting routes in other areas: Case Dismissed on the Barrier Wall is steep, safe, and super-pumpy, only a crucial hand-jam got me up this, whilst Ticket To Ride on the Lower Main Wall is sheer, juggy, and steady but super-bold higher up. Having had a good explore and reacquaintance with the crag, I am declaring Creag Dubh season open and am determined to go back soon!

The next day we went to Brin Rock, which now has a full complement of trad, bouldering, and sport - although in the grand tradition of Scotland's clannish and insular local scenes, the seemingly popular sport climbing, whilst listed on UKC, is not usefully described anywhere, so for an outsider to actually climb there the usual veil of secrecy has to be penetrated....or maybe just ignored. The trad climbing itself seems to be ignored, as we soon found that highly starred routes looked undeservedly neglected. Maybe the approach slog puts people off, 10-15 minutes of boulders and heather is pretty grim although to be fair it's mostly the leg-murdering angle that made it so hard for me, I'm sure the able-bodied could cope with a bit of moral fibre. Anyway the crags turned out to be worth the effort - a pleasant belay perch at The Needle gave access to Gold Digger, an soft-touch but fine and varied route in an excellent position, and a return to Zed Crag pointed us at The Wild Man, an action packed wee route that was good from start to finish. That, and an easier warmup, was all we did, but it was cool to check out the crag. I still have to go back for Brin Done Before of course!

Following this weekend, although my right elbow is feeling okay, I tweaked my right shoulder when my foot slipped seconding Muph Dive, and got stung on my right forearm by a bloody wasp at Barrier Wall, which is still sore and itchy. I'll need to keep up with shoulder AND elbow theraputic weights now, ugh.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: Aberdeen Assault
Post by: SA Chris on September 10, 2012, 02:17:16 pm
Floors Craig

Can get quite greasy, but a nice crag. Just beware although it's non-tidal any swell swamps the ledges at high tide, and they become really slippery!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: GazM on September 10, 2012, 02:34:40 pm
Good effort going tradding at Brin Fiend.  Are the routes worth a look?
I think the latest details of the sport routes up there can be got from Andy Nisbet - some decent routes and easier to access by walking up the West side of the hill and dropping across the face.
Brin Done Before is still on my list too!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 10, 2012, 04:42:46 pm
I've been to Floor's...failed on 3 E2s in a row. I think that was the time when I realised how specialist the Aberdeen coast was (something which some short-sighted serially-downgrading locals would do well to take into account especially when a new guidebook is being planned!!) and how much effort/preparation it would take.

Gaz: Yup the 3 trad routes we did were all good, worth the effort if you don't mind a boulder bash to get to them. I will email Andy Nisbet (I spotted this on a UKC thread when I LMGTFYed "Brin Rock topo").
Title: Autumnal Aberdeen
Post by: comPiler on September 14, 2012, 01:01:25 am
Autumnal Aberdeen (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/09/autumnal-autumn.html)
13 September 2012, 8:14 pm



It's feeling pretty autumnal at the moment.... The changing of the light is particularly noticable - when the grey cloud smothers Scotland it feels especially gloomy, but when the sun burns through the increasingly low angle of it, whilst slightly perturbing, produces pleasing golden light that brings a certain romance to the landscape. There is little friendliness in the weather overall though: the Indian Summer has firmly hit Scotland in the way Scotland does best - a gale is lashing through Glasgow and Western Scotland is lucky to get one dry day a week. Something that England-based (currently dry) climbers would do well to remember when they whine about their "poor summer" compared to Scotland's good early summer - just bear in mind that last year when England had a decent summer and good autumn, Scotland had shit-all apart from rain for both...

In these conditions, once again the East Coast saves the day with all it's percularities and quirks and shelter from the Atlantic lows. As much as the changing of the seasons has made me feel a bit perculiar myself (despite usually liking autumn a lot), I'm still syked and inspired enough to keep trying hard, with mixed but pretty decent results. This time, despite concerns about my shoulder, it eased off surprisingly rapidly with a day's climbing, and I tackled the following climbs of personal note:

Red Army Blues @ Sickle Row - a route that doesn't seem to get much attention, but it should as it's bloody great. I started this in a strangely sedated state of mind and spent ages on it getting my determination to match up to my rising syke and awakening body. Eventually it did and despite all the faff I really enjoyed the stylish line and some great moves.

Sair Fecht @ Floors Craig - the one at FC that I was pretty sure I could do, and yup it worked just like that. Straightforward gear but good cranky crimpy moves made for a nicely cruxy climb compared to the usual schistpumpfest horror shows.

The Pugilist @ Floors Craig (failed) - the one at FC that I was pretty sure would be twatting desperate, and it was. Obvious steepness, overrated holds and awkward gear, leading to it being brutally pumpy. Not a the sort of route that suits me trying to push my standard on, I fell off downclimbing to ground but my heart hadn't been properly in it anyway. Fair enough some styles of route are going to be too hard, all I can take from it is learning that I should try to stack the odds more with warm-ups and feeling fresher, to give myself a fighting chance on routes that fight dirty.

Photos of Sair Fecht:

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: richieb on September 14, 2012, 07:52:05 am
Nice one. I think I remember backing off Pugilist the day I was there with you. Pokey.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fultonius on September 14, 2012, 08:49:58 am
So, the Pugilist is a fair step up? I had it in my mind since the day we went down and did Sair Fecht.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 14, 2012, 09:46:32 am
Richie I remember you doing MM and finding it hard...

Pugilist felt a long step up from Sair Fecht. Hostile start, steep, fiddly pro etc. It's that typical steep schist style (anti-Fiend style!) where there is no room for contemplation or doubt, but if you're very familiar and comfortable with that style (as the locals seem to be) it will feel different. To be fair I did have some doubt, and I'm not sure downclimbing was the best tactic. Being fucking fit and strong would be better.
Title: Bangface 2012!
Post by: comPiler on September 22, 2012, 01:00:05 pm
Bangface 2012! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/09/bangface-2012.html)
22 September 2012, 10:53 am



http://www.bangface.com/weekender/lineup/bfw2012lineup.htm

Hard to resist with a line-up like that. 90% of time I look at festival / weekender line-ups and at best there are 1 or 2 artists I would be tempted to see, the rest is mundane indie dance student semi-alternative bollox. Bangface always seem to hit properly hard though and in the end this proved too much to resist, even as a solo mission with a lot of driving.

Unfortunately that amount of driving resulted in me arriving late on Friday night, setting up camp several miles from the rave, and then not having enough petrol to get there and back and not enough energy to dick around with taxis and stuff. If I'd known that night's line-up was: Dave Clarke > Venetian Snares > Bong-Ra > Outside Agency then I'd have tried a bit harder....clearly I am pretty pissed I missed that lot.

But I got good value raving on the next two nights, catching, in order:

Renegade feat Ray Keith Live:

(jungle)

Pretty good job of a live set and pretty good jungle overall, although a bit stop/start and I'd have preferred more old-skool Ray Keith stuff.

DJ Starscream (ex-Slipknot):

(techno, dubstep, jungle, breakcore)

Good and surprising set, I thought this dude was just relentless breakcore but he mixed it up pretty well with a full spectrum of styles, building up to the proper mashed up stuff, all pretty good.

Wisp:

(electronica, jungle, hardcore)

The surprise of the night, I only caught the last part of this set but it sounded really nice, bleepy trancey melodies with fast jungle and hard techno beats. Not sure if the whole set was like this but would happily see more of Wisp.

808 State:

(oldskool, breakbeat)

Another surprise, I didn't really know much about 808S apart from them having done some old skool / housey anthems, but despite the least charismatic frontman ever, they did some good breakbeat stuff, and some of their newer tracks which were nice solid drum and bass styles.

Current Value:

(hard drum and bass)

Excellent! Proper hardcore Current Value style, but not all pots and pans, with a few abstract and dubsteppy bits thrown in amongst the mayhem. Set of the weekend for me and great to dance to. I find some of the modern hard dnb a bit relentless on CD but it works great in a rave.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-kQz3FeAlE

Producer & Hellfish:

(gabber, breakbeat)

Good stuff, exactly as expected, I used to catch Producer loads in my earlier raving years, and he's still going strong, mixing it in well with Hellfish and some hip-hop and breakbeat styles with proper pogoing gabber beats.

DJ Yoda:

(hip-hop, funk, dubstep, audio-visual)

Well put together set of slick and entertaining audio-visual mixing. Entertaining stuff although not my sort of thing to rave to.

u-ziq:

(electronica, ambient, techno)

Again another nice set but not really that energetic and dancey. Some of the earlier parts were excellent listening ambient / downbeat.

Aphex Twin:

(acid techno, industrial electro, breakhop, neo-jungle, noisecore)

Good set....maybe a great set. Slightly marred by early technical hitches (15 mins late start, then 15 mins downtime just after starting), and being bloody boiling in the rave so I had to chill out even when he transmogrified into the jungle stuff. But the actual music was often great, some classy acid techno, the vibes were mad (5 lasers + 15 giant inflatable dolphins at one point) and the breakcore finish was amazing. So yeah good stuff...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNwJpzJP_ZY

(Terrible sound but you get the idea)

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Whilst in Cornwall...
Post by: comPiler on September 22, 2012, 07:00:05 pm
Whilst in Cornwall... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/09/whilst-in-cornwall.html)
22 September 2012, 4:50 pm



...it would have been rude not to do some climbing. Downright disgraceful in fact, given the exciting array of both adventurous and refined sea-cliff climbing that lies along the invariably scenic and geologically tortured North Devon and Cornwall coastline. Personally I tend to eschew the honeypots of West Penwith, simply because I have less inspiration for the granite, and prefer the austere pleasures of culm sandstone and the intrigue of pillow lava and the Atlantic coast. Thankfully I met up with local veteran Mark Kemball who was up for exploring "wherever", so I could sample a variety of coastal and inland crags. It went thusly:

Diamond Wall, Lizard:

(deep water solo)

Still terrifying, although a choppy swirling sea didn't help: Highly syked plans to do some F6bs here to warm up for F6cs at Nare Head were as rapidly abandoned as my attempt on a F6a to start was rapidly abandoned into a F4+ escape. I felt at least as scared above the sea as I would above the land, and especially wary of the rock, line, grades, and errr everything. I still want to get to grips with DWS but it certainly didn't happen this trip!

Carn Brea:

(bouldering)

Good lines, decent rock, nice situation and great landings made this a suitable evening quick hit before getting my rave on. The conditions although cool-ISH were pretty mediocre for frictional granite, but I managed a few good easier problems including Classic Arete (below) and a nice "V3" crack that was more like "VS".

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rVyX5rxGMtU/UF3eaQJzKFI/AAAAAAAAAyA/Ho1GmGlTjxw/s400/fiend_carnbrea1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rVyX5rxGMtU/UF3eaQJzKFI/AAAAAAAAAyA/Ho1GmGlTjxw/s1600/fiend_carnbrea1.jpg)

Kilmar Tor:

(recceing, soloing, walking, bouldering)

After bouncing away until 4am this was really just to meet up with Mark and hang out with his bunch of merry men. The walk-in was knackering, the wind ferocious, and the rock rather coarse and gravelly. I just pottered.

Kellan Head:

(trad)

The first proper day out, after only bouncing until 2am ;). I'd been to Kellan ages ago and done a couple of routes, and got some inspiration for some standard but attractive pitches on the Waterslide Wall. The pillow lava was nice, the warm-up route was well worth it's appealing line, and the harder Rock-a-by Baby had a wild and exciting crux (once we'd worked out the photo in the book was unspeakably bad beta!!). A very chilled out evening at the campsite followed.

The Cheesewring:

(sport, trad)

Coastal options were limited the next day as a very brisk nor'wester precluded the more interesting North-facing crags, so the variety and general shelter of the Cheesewring was proposed. This was a mixed day - falling off the first move of Warrior through sheer carelessness was shockingly bad, somehow smearing and pressing up the desperate crux of Trouble With Lichen was shocking I managed it at all, the hardest corner climbing I've done. A few easier leads and seconds surrounded this, and confirmed that I'm not a huge fan of quarried granite per se. Like inland limestone and central highlands schist, it has some great climbs but they have to be specifically chosen, unlike gritstone or gneiss which are intrinsically good.

Cow And Calf:

(trad)

Back on the sheer and stylish sedimentary sandstone of the Culm Coast, where every crag has some interest and every good climb has it's fair share of wee crimps and RP protection seams. C&C is steeper and more dramatic than some crags, and a recce 5 years ago had inspired me for the two brilliant climbs I managed: Dark Side Of The Moon was a great big swaggering pitch with a proper technical crux and a good fly on the wall feel, while Elisa Johanna was the most intense lead I've done this year - exciting and bold climbing with spaced protection, that took almost all the committment I had. Very satisfying. On the way back out we walked out past the Elisa Johanna itself....820 tonnes of metal torn into pieces by 30 years of the sea's relentless ravaging....pretty wild...

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j_o8-_nXKcU/UF3fJ31RbsI/AAAAAAAAAyI/1woKUWoDyDw/s400/fiend_elisa.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j_o8-_nXKcU/UF3fJ31RbsI/AAAAAAAAAyI/1woKUWoDyDw/s1600/fiend_elisa.jpg)

...200m later...

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k6ZwAd2xks0/UF3roZDfpcI/AAAAAAAAAyc/c7rf-iJxnFo/s400/fiend_elisa2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k6ZwAd2xks0/UF3roZDfpcI/AAAAAAAAAyc/c7rf-iJxnFo/s1600/fiend_elisa2.jpg)

So overall a great wee trip, and I got very inspired to get back down there. I love the feel of the coast....everything feels like a hidden gem :). While I was down there my elbow felt mostly fine and didn't really need tape, my shoulder felt completely healed....but I tweaked my back putting my tent back in the car, and got a minor bout of man-flu to slow me down this weekend. Both easing off now thankfully....so will see what more I can get done in Scotland before autumn closes in too far...  

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Title: Laid Low
Post by: comPiler on September 27, 2012, 01:00:08 pm
Laid Low (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/09/laid-low.html)
27 September 2012, 11:58 am



Once again I come back from a good climbing trip (same with Gibraltar, same with Caithness) in good spirits and good climbing fitness and the fucking punterflu. Caithness I caught it off Geoff, but Gibraltar I was virtually living on sunshine and fresh fruit, whilst Cornwall, despite a couple of days raving, the last few days were an intensely rewarding mixture of exercise, fresh sea air, and lots of sleep. It doesn't make any sense and it means instead of carrying on with my good form and good climbing, I've been a bit wiped out, not badly so but enough to miss the good weather last weekend and feeling I have to crawl my way back into things. I've started doing that with two short TCA sessions and an even shorter run (mostly to use the standard DVT-derived chest-wrenching exhaustion after 10 mins try to clear my lungs), all of which have been "okay".

My body is very slowly getting back to normal, but my mind is still ailing: The combination of this abrupt end to a good climbing period, an even more abrupt change to cold dark autumn, a poor autumn forecast, ponderings on whether I am staying in Glasgow or moving back South, and a cancellation of a potential trip abroad has made me feel detatched and distant from the climber's path in a surprisingly short period of time. Faffing around waiting for a cold to settle with no significant exploration planned and no obvious inspirations to follow due to time and weather doesn't feel right to me. I think I am also suffering from SAD a bit these days, I never used to but then spending more time in the frozen and dark wasteland that is Scotland might have some effect.

Anyway the plan is: Keep active and keep training while my cold is recovering, look for any opportunities to get to my remaining Scottish inspirations, be aware of suitable transitions into more wintery climbing (sandstone, gritstone, short technical routes), and try to get a trip abroad organised ASAP. And try to get some power back into my blood....

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: The punteration.
Post by: comPiler on October 12, 2012, 07:00:16 pm
The punteration. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/10/the-punteration.html)
12 October 2012, 12:53 pm



I have recovered from the punterflu but not from the associated residual (or is it chronic?) punterdom it seems. I've managed to keep active and get out climbing a few meagre times, but it's definitely been ticking over at a subterraneanly low level rather than ticking the all important Big Numbers *snort*:

Weem: Slogged up to Aerial Crag. Super grim as I hadn't been active for two days and my legs wouldn't work at the top. Easy mileage in a pretty nice situation. Did the job.

Glen Ogle: Slogged up to Mirror Wall. Super grim as...errr my legs are fucked. Got pretty angry and thinking a lot of FUCK YOU thoughts at the world and society. Lovely situation and a nice bit of rock, but some problems with seepage so had to faff around a bit. Learnt that I don't like leading routes if I've inspected them, even if it's only to dry off seepage. Okay day.

Trowbarrow: No slogging! Warm day at a sun trap. Haven't been there for years. Did a couple of steady routes, tried something a bit steeper, got pumped, got fucking cowardly and slumped onto a peg instead of doing one move to easier ground. Disgraceful. But okay day apart from that.

Houndkirk Tor: First time on grit for years. Cool day but still vest-on conditions and pretty greasy. Didn't expect much and just went for an easy circuit, which worked fine. Ended up with my skin more trashed than my elbow for the first time in ages.

Plus some sessions at TCA trying to redress the fucked skin / fucked elbow balance, and a couple of gym sessions confirming I am fat as well as weak. Moan moan whine etc ;). Still at least I am moving so if I keep at it I'm sure I'll end up getting some fun stuff done soon...

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Title: Hola...err...bon soir from Spain...err...France.
Post by: comPiler on October 20, 2012, 01:01:12 am
Hola...err...bon soir from Spain...err...France. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/10/holaerrbon-soir-from-spainerrfrance.html)
19 October 2012, 8:42 pm



Desperado Red Edition, random French lager, and Kwak 8.4% this evening, so this blog post might be even less coherent than normal...

We are in France. Not Spain. Nor Glasgow. Spain was the plan - inspiring Pyrenean granite up at Cavallers. Slabs and features and all the usual granite goodness (not my favourite rock but I find it intriguing enough especially on sport climbing) all scattered close to a mountain reservoir. A cheap apartment in the local village and plenty of winter sun limestone nearby if it got too cold or rainy up in the mountains. Plan A seemed infallible...

....except for a swirling miasma of hurricane strength low pressure grinding it's way across Spain and spewing it's torrential rain showers over the Pyrenees like a bukakke shoot on a Ferris wheel. Arse bugger wank etc etc.

So Plan B has been to cancel the apartment and retreat to a climber's B&B in Ariege, crossing the border which was characterised by an ancient outpost in a random village and an incredibly fluffy rug dog on the French side, into an area forecast to be sheltered enough to escape the worse of the deluge.

Maybe it has, but there has been enough of a mild deluge today to restrict activity to a recce of rather good looking granite slabs at Auzat, and then some bog-standard Euro-lime at Sinsat. Still we did some climbing, it's quite muggy which while unpleasant for climbing is beneficial for my elbow and shoulder tweaks, and got some inspiration....

Since Cavallers looks to be getting a lot of rain and thus might take some time to dry, we might extend our French border crossing for a couple of days into next week, then head South. Or we might end up rotpunkting polished bollox in chossy ever-dry caves and watching more Starcraft 2 videos WHO KNOWS.

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Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Hola from Spain, at last.
Post by: comPiler on October 25, 2012, 01:00:22 am
Hola from Spain, at last. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/10/hola-from-spain-at-last.html)
23 October 2012, 7:38 pm



We are now in Spain and have indeed been in Cavallers, after a gruelling 6 hour drive (3-4 hours on windy mountain roads) due to missing a road junction, nearly getting swept away in a tsunami of sheep, trying to get settled into our booked accommodation with the Catalan owner's dad and a total of one word comprehensible between us - "hola", and finally climbing beneath the bloody massive dam at Cavallers. I am so tired I can't even be arsed to have a second beer, so am blogging to pass the time until 10pm bedtime!

Our stay in Ariege was both pleasant and worthwhile in the end. The climber's gite at in is a real treasure: Comfy rooms, good kitchen, ace shower, breakfast in the morning, even decent coffee if you double the amount of grounds the friendly owners put in ;). Definitely a base I'd come back to. We made the best use out of the weather - hearing about floods in Lourdes and rubbish weather from Siurana to Costa Blanca reassured us we had made the right plan B. Combining late starts, some optimism and a bit of luck, we were able to avoid roof-angle rotpunkting in crusty caves, and after a couple of damp starts managed to climb daily and sample limestone at Sinsat, Rochethingy De Chateau and Carol, gneiss at Appy, and in particular granite at Auzat.

The latter we'd recced on one of those damp starts and estimated it was worth prolonging our Ariege stay for - and damn right it was. Granite slabs....but unlike the low angle large crystal no holds horrors of Pedriza (and probably Cavallers from first impressions), the Auzat granite is fine grained, with positive holds, and the perfect steep slab angle that makes those holds necessary - big rockovers on crimps and nubbins, none of this padding bolleaux. Some of the most fun granite I've been on, and another reason to come back to the area and combine it with some of the more imposing limestone we didn't get to.

We have two days (in theory a possible morning en-route to the airport if I can persuade stinky fox that a 6am start is really a sensible plan). At least one of those will be a full day at Cavallers, maybe the other will be too or maybe we can mix it up with a bit more Cavallers and a bit more limestone. The very typical granite at Cavallers is a good change but not my favourite rock so can work as a good combination with the lime....we shall see...

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Title: Hello from errr sunny Glasgow.
Post by: comPiler on October 27, 2012, 01:00:19 pm
Hello from errr sunny Glasgow. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/10/hello-from-errr-sunny-glasgow.html)
27 October 2012, 8:55 am



So I'm back, from the Cavallers trip that turned into an Ariege and Cavallers trip, which was actually pretty good given the diversity of areas we got to explore. The last couple of days were a great day on some classic Cavallers routes (a mixture of delicate slabs with funky chickenheads, strong cracks and flakes, and towering 40m pitches) and a draining day driving 360 km in search of dry rock (we found a tiny bit) and general recceing (had a look at the Santa Linya cave....shockingly impressive, a humbling experience).

Overall it was a good trip....the cunning plan of retreating to the Ariege worked well, the days on Cavallers granite were great, and the variety and some fine routes were rewarding. I climbed okay during the trip, I didn't push myself very hard, partly due to moving around a lot, partly due to the often slightly greasy conditions, partly due to initial unsurity about the granite climbing (I'm pleased to report that both Cavallers and Auzat have proper grading rather than Pedriza-style nonsense). But I did some good challenges and felt fairly climbing fit, also my elbow and shoulders felt better throughout the trip with the more mileage I got in.

Now it's back to cold wintery Scotland and coming up with the next cunning plans. I definitely want to get abroad more this winter, and also get more climbing done in the UK overall, seeking out the warmth and suitable crags rather than just restricting myself to Scotland. More on that later. As always I will be looking for syked partners to explore with - often the biggest challenge!!

In the meantime, the grand total of 4 self-explanatory photos from France and Spain:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uEIujUQYDb4/UIuhE7Xku0I/AAAAAAAAAyw/4ZkohTPLQNA/s400/castle.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uEIujUQYDb4/UIuhE7Xku0I/AAAAAAAAAyw/4ZkohTPLQNA/s1600/castle.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HcGgcsu4Lp0/UIuhK-Sd6SI/AAAAAAAAAy4/QqdVS0eYQHk/s400/cav1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HcGgcsu4Lp0/UIuhK-Sd6SI/AAAAAAAAAy4/QqdVS0eYQHk/s1600/cav1.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vHbz5XI8kSc/UIuhSEiG1vI/AAAAAAAAAzA/ZZ9WAbSsgY4/s400/contemplation.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vHbz5XI8kSc/UIuhSEiG1vI/AAAAAAAAAzA/ZZ9WAbSsgY4/s1600/contemplation.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k5bPL1aXKUI/UIuhVDkUykI/AAAAAAAAAzI/UHYngbIB_wM/s400/traffic.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k5bPL1aXKUI/UIuhVDkUykI/AAAAAAAAAzI/UHYngbIB_wM/s1600/traffic.jpg)

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Title: Training season begins...
Post by: comPiler on October 30, 2012, 12:00:12 am
Training season begins... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/10/training-season-begins.html)
29 October 2012, 8:39 pm



Got the Ratho for the first time in a very long time. I actually can't remember the last time I did route training. I'm sure it was before the Pyrenees....before pre-trip TCA training....before the days pottering around the Central Belt and Sheffield....before the punter-flu bollox....before Cornwall radness....before the nice trips to the 'Deen....it was sometime back then, possibly...

Suffice to say it is feeling rather wintery out there (wet today!) and it is definitely time to keep training and keep active. That is my general plan for the winter - keep active at the wall, gym, outside bouldering, routes, trips abroad, short runs, swimming, anything. My elbow is still injured, obviously, it may heal soon or it may not, but it means I just need to do general training rather than pushing myself hard. Indoor routes, the gym, and outdoor climbing fullstop being ideal, rather than the dubious temptations of TCA.

So it was good to get back to Ratho. I thought I would both be out of practise due to the lack of wall training, and feeling on reasonable form due to a week away. And thus it was - I did fine. My fingers struggled a bit with the cold, I got pumped as always, and also my lungs were aching from the general effort. All to be expected although the lung thing is a bit weird....then again my fitness is a bit weird i.e. completely fucked. Despite that I did a few challenging routes and felt like I was treading water okay. So that's fine for now.

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Title: Scottish Winter Season begins!
Post by: comPiler on November 05, 2012, 06:00:10 pm
Scottish Winter Season begins! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/11/scottish-winter-season-begins.html)
5 November 2012, 1:12 pm



Well in a moment of madness and perverse determination, I am sticking around Scotland for a while longer, partly in the hope of ekeing out more trad radness in the spring, which means I have to weather another winter. Brrrr my old bones are wondering whether this is a good idea, but then again the weather this weekend shows some promise - it is glorious in the North West. With a minimal response for possible climbing partners, it is time for another Misanthrope Mission to kick off the season's bouldering. So I'm digging out last year's universal failure of a bouldering ticklist and trying to get some of these final mental blocs done. I've done a few, removed a few, added a few:

Pump Up The Jam, various - Skye - yes, romped along it in a heatwave :)

Razorback, Romancing The Stone, various - Reiff -

Various - Reiff In The Woods - yes, done Haven which is enough.

The Ship Boulder - Torridon - yes, done Squelch & Swamp Monster which is enough

Long Winning Streak (+SS?) - Inchbae - yes, done the normal problem, SS looks good but might not go back.

Blankety Blank - Torridon - too hard and skin-trashing

Various - Cammachmore

Big Lebowski, The Dude - Ruthven Boulder

Brin Done Before - Brin Rock

Deep Breath Arete, Hamish, various - Glen Nevis - nope, DBA was uninspiring lip traverse with bad landing, Hamish looked stupidly sandbaggy, did lots on the other side of river.

Pyramid Lip - Glen Ogle

White Matter - St Bride's Wall - yes, surprise ascent on a showery summer's day.

??? - Loch Sloy

Swap Meet, Ace Of Spades, various - Glen Croe - nope, probably too hard with a fucked elbow.

The Bottler - Loch Lomond

Nameless Pimp Toy - Stronlachlar

The Chop (7a eliminate version) - Weem

Various Corrie Boulders - Arran

Suck My Woolie, Snow White - Garheugh

Gale Force, various - Laggan 2

Abracadabra, Craigmaddie

Probably enough to get on with ;)

~{§}~

On to the weekend, and maybe winter isn't all that bad... A car with a view.  

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QyrzezO25Ck/UJe1lWHiqMI/AAAAAAAAAzY/ZWLeWrob5vE/s400/ritw2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QyrzezO25Ck/UJe1lWHiqMI/AAAAAAAAAzY/ZWLeWrob5vE/s1600/ritw2.jpg)

Firstly I got to the ever-reliable Torridon, where the rock was mostly crisp and dry, and the ground was mostly sodden and sub-aqueous. I'd forgotten just how fundamental BOG is to Scottish climbing! The Torridon sandstone is brilliant and makes me wish I lived locally in winter as well as summer - this overall area no doubt has many harder lines that would inspire me over many sessions, but on a flying visit it is harder to push my limits. I did try with Blankety Blank but couldn't even remember how to do the start let alone shred my fingers on the crux above. So I stuck to the classic Ship boulder and it's plethora of shallow bog highballing classics. Never has such a soft flat landing felt so intimidating, partly because some lines stray over the few harsh boulders, and partly because some classic lines go so far OUT through the steepness, mat positioning is an obtuse guessing game - especially with my flaccid old Pods. Swamp Monster and Squelch were aptly-named reward enough.

Snowy mountains might be utter bollox for climbing, but they provide a nice backdrop... A boulder with a view.

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-clwzSAxjZ28/UJe2QYG6FTI/AAAAAAAAAzg/F85ytxvB-J8/s320/inchbae2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-clwzSAxjZ28/UJe2QYG6FTI/AAAAAAAAAzg/F85ytxvB-J8/s1600/inchbae2.jpg)

Secondly I got on with some unfinished business. Since the forecast was glorious the whole weekend, it obviously rained a lot overnight. No need for an Alpine start despite the Alpine backdrop around Assynt. Reiff In The Woods was touch and go, especially in the haven that shelters Haven. Not wanting to waste the epic round trip, I resorted to abseiling to clean holds (there's no issue with "damp sandstone" as there are no flakes crozzles or nubbins, just solid rounded edges and a solid arete). This worked and I blasted past last time's high point. Brilliant problem.

Finally it was onto the underrated Inchbae and it's plethoric scattering of proper blocks, unfortunately only a few of these are big enough for proper blocs, but those few are really very good, fine rock in a fine situation. I'd nearly done A Long Winning Streak last time, but ran out of daylight on the unlisted sitter. This time I made sure I got on with the original problem, which was well worth it, one of the best technical wall problems in Scotland. Crucial multi-use inverted thumb-sprag? Yes please. And that was enough for now.

~{§}~

Since I started writing this in the Forest Way bunkhouse, I'd like to give a shout out to the following fine establishments:

Old Gairloch Inn - good food, good beer, and have been very helpful with late diners.

Mountain Coffee Company - good coffee, hippy vibes, and cakes so large they have their own gravitational field.

Sail Mhor Hostel - good value and nice simple relaxed vibe.

Forest Way Bunkhouse - small but perfectly formed.

The Ceilidh Place - good food, good beer, good breakfasts, and a useful if pricey bunkhouse.

Kinlochewe Hotel - friendly bar that compensates for a cattle-herd bunkhouse.

Torridon Campsite - toilets showers and the best value in Scotland: FREE. Much respect.

Making Wester Ross climbing all the more enjoyable and logistically feasible :).

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Title: Scottish Injury Season begins!!
Post by: comPiler on November 18, 2012, 12:00:36 am
Scottish Injury Season begins!! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/11/scottish-injury-season-begins.html)
17 November 2012, 8:20 pm



Or continues. Or increases.

Okay so my elbow has been fucked all year. Fine for trad, okay for sport, bad for bouldering and indoor training.

No problem - for winter training and bouldering I'll do some gnarly pressy pushy gastony stuff.

Okay so now my right shoulder is tweaked.....do some theraband.....okay that's clearing.....reach under a desk and dislodge my left shoulder....now THAT is tweaked.

No problem - for winter training and bouldering I'll do thin fingery crimpy technical stuff.

Okay so now my left hand ring finger A2 pulley is tweaked....tender to touch....tender to crimp.

No problem - I'll just chill out and ease off any training.

Okay except I'm going to Siurana in 4 weeks and unlike the more exploratory trips to San Bartolo and Ariege/Cavallers, I'd like to be climbing fit enough to push myself a bit.

No problem - I'll do lots of fitness training and general exercise.

Oh....wait.....lol yeah like I can fucking do that :S

Okay so what can I do??

The elbow is manageable by taping, massage, stretching, warmth, eccentrics. The shoulders are manageable by theraband exercises and massage. The finger is manageable by as much rest as I can tolerate, hot/cold treatment, massage, stretching, careful taping. All of them are manageable by taking care and avoiding specific climbing that aggravates them.

The fitness problem is unavoidable except by continuously banging my head against the demoralising brick wall of absolutely physical limitations, and by some nimbly outwitting at the gym (I think swimming is out due to shoulders).

What else??

Weights - I am quite syked for weights at the moment. After all it's got lots of NUMBERS to aim for and just like climbing that's the only point of it, what more motivation do you need huh?? It's a way to push myself physically without damaging the tweaky bits and possibly even benefit them by training antagonistic and surrounding muscles. Obviously it is nowhere near as good climbing training as climbing training, but it can work the core and be a good prep for CV work, and if it's the exercise I'm doing that's a fuck of a lot better than not doing it.

Falling practise - still a huge deal for me, and still something I definitely need to train and am currently doing so a bit - a few falls each session at the wall, and I can definitely ramp that up. Okay so I've got to choose the right non-aggravating route to get to the fall zone, but the more I can do of this the better. If I get physically weaker but mentally stronger that would probably be better than the other way around.

Stretching - god I get so fucking bored by stretching, I'd rather do 2 2 hour gym sessions a week which I bloody hate, than 10 mins stretching each day. MUST TRY HARDER.

And of course the usual gentle climbing stuff - outdoors preferably, indoors stamina only. Keep moving but keep diligent and monitoring my tweaks at all time.

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Title: Getting Cold at Glen Clova
Post by: comPiler on November 30, 2012, 06:00:08 pm
Getting Cold at Glen Clova (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/11/getting-cold-at-glen-clova.html)
30 November 2012, 2:09 pm



Not much to add to this - just a nice afternoon out in excellent winter conditions. Some cool stuff in the Hollow Boulders, although it took a lot of lichen-brushing and head-scratching to make sense of the actual problems. In the end I just climbed the lines instead of the listed problems, which seems fairly common with Scottish bouldering.

My finger is still fucked, but my elbows and shoulders seem to be responding okay to theraputic exercises. Clova was okay as none of the problems needed left hand crimps. I also spent a while trying the Mouton roof which is hard and excellent and only hurt my finger a bit because the lip hold was digging in. I've added that to my hitlist which means unfortunately it is getting longer rather than shorter!

Revised bouldering hitlist:

Razorback, Romancing The Stone, various - Reiff -

Big Lebowski, The Dude - Ruthven Boulder

Brin Done Before - Brin Rock

Gale Force, various - Laggan 2

Le Col Du Toit De Mouton, Lady Sam - Glen Clova

Pyramid Lip - Glen Ogle

The Chop (7a eliminate version) - Weem

The Bottler - Loch Lomond

Nameless Pimp Toy - Stronlachlar

??? - Loch Sloy

Abracadabra, Craigmaddie

Suck My Woolie, Snow White - Garheugh

Various - Farr Boulder

Various - Cammachmore  

Various - Arran Corrie Boulders

Various - Moray Boulders

Various - Narnairn Boulders

Hopefully my injuries will be able to cope with some of these, there is enough variety there to hopefully avoid stressing whatever is currently the worst (e.g. I won't be touching The Chop for a long time but Pyramid Lip could be fine...). I'm quite inspired ...

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-671793952103074528?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Scottish Bouldering
Post by: comPiler on December 03, 2012, 06:00:05 pm
Scottish Bouldering (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/12/scottish-bouldering.html)
3 December 2012, 12:54 pm



What Scottish bouldering is all about:


What it doesn't usually involve:


But what sometimes happens after all the hours of faff and misadventure:


(NB: The latter hasn't happened that much in recent weeks, but it's been pretty close a few times)

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-2332024155441581456?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on December 04, 2012, 11:38:51 am
Bear that in mind come spring. I have several things earmarked for development that don't feature much of the bad things listed above.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on December 04, 2012, 01:44:10 pm
Don't feature those quintessential aspects?? I might not be interested then :P
Title: Siurana Sendage.
Post by: comPiler on December 17, 2012, 06:00:07 pm
Siurana Sendage. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/12/siurana-sendage.html)
17 December 2012, 2:15 pm



Had a long weekend in Siurana - a semi-last minute trip that I was kindly invited on which I very much appreciated. I've been to Siurana, and Costa Daurada, and Spain before, so the climbing was very familiar and I wanted to focus more on pushing myself than on exploration. Thus in the weeks preceding the trip, not only did I have a chronic fucked elbow, but also fucked shoulders, and a fucked finger, preventing almost any useful form of wall / stamina / power training. I tried to work around this with gym sessions, and tackle harder issues with falling practise, and this might well have worked as I had a pretty great trip - good climbing, good variety of Siurana crags, good wee cabin (albeit with a shit shower) and a good value campsite bar... I might have to take a break from tortillas though!

I managed to climb several challenging routes at my previous uninjured limit (but still fucked legs of course). This was despite adding a fucked thumb to the list of my injuries during a vicious gaston / thumb-sprag - I felt a crunching sound part way through the move and thought I'd broken a chunk of rock off....with the rock still intact I thought I might have torn my thumb off, but it was still intact and attached, I think I had just damaged some stabilising tissue, and thankfully after a rest evening it was manageable. Careful taping allowed me to keep generally cranking hard each day, including two routes where I really had to battle and one with a wild slap as the last move which took all the commitment I had and was one of the most overall challenging moves I've done on a rope - very satisfying, and symbolic of a successful trip!

Photos:

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L2j7PrWs9s8/UM8hzklRZkI/AAAAAAAAA0g/FAF75114aDM/s400/perrosno.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L2j7PrWs9s8/UM8hzklRZkI/AAAAAAAAA0g/FAF75114aDM/s1600/perrosno.jpg)In the bar: Perros NO!

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hi5BBDto5tw/UM8h3L43VqI/AAAAAAAAA0o/1Kx1UDS21EY/s400/perrossi.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hi5BBDto5tw/UM8h3L43VqI/AAAAAAAAA0o/1Kx1UDS21EY/s1600/perrossi.jpg) At the crag: Perros SI!

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h_P8_onDeBw/UM8f7-l-L8I/AAAAAAAAAzw/8YB0_OStOZE/s400/fiend_dionis.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h_P8_onDeBw/UM8f7-l-L8I/AAAAAAAAAzw/8YB0_OStOZE/s1600/fiend_dionis.jpg)Some pretty rad and exposed route.

 (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JSwmrugwDfY/UM8hsIQNfLI/AAAAAAAAA0Q/x_RVE9hT3s8/s400/fiend_tonigros2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JSwmrugwDfY/UM8hsIQNfLI/AAAAAAAAA0Q/x_RVE9hT3s8/s1600/fiend_tonigros2.jpg) Rainy afternoon but sheltered by capping roofs.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FO9L_RqDX7U/UM8hkLPu68I/AAAAAAAAA0A/A-9fj41AOFI/s400/fiend_herb1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FO9L_RqDX7U/UM8hkLPu68I/AAAAAAAAA0A/A-9fj41AOFI/s1600/fiend_herb1.jpg)Solid challenge which I barely scraped through with a duff sequence.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H7mYzPTovHA/UM8hfYgFERI/AAAAAAAAAz4/M4QPQgCgo1k/s400/fiend_herb3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H7mYzPTovHA/UM8hfYgFERI/AAAAAAAAAz4/M4QPQgCgo1k/s1600/fiend_herb3.jpg)Previous solid challenge was the red flake and headwall just left, amazing position.

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iRihrZNKXRg/UM8hnNYiGZI/AAAAAAAAA0I/fv99rdrrrDw/s400/fiend_snooze.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iRihrZNKXRg/UM8hnNYiGZI/AAAAAAAAA0I/fv99rdrrrDw/s1600/fiend_snooze.jpg)Final day and body has given up!

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dMte5BzPCCU/UM8hxSOcr2I/AAAAAAAAA0Y/J1wsoO3tlVs/s400/team_send.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dMte5BzPCCU/UM8hxSOcr2I/AAAAAAAAA0Y/J1wsoO3tlVs/s1600/team_send.jpg)Team Send (god that's a fucking gay and poncy cliche isn't it?? Yes we are all relative punters but we all pushed ourselves and put the effort in and had a great time so fuck it)

(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/633393884413245077-3323554013103035811?l=fiendophobia.blogspot.com)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Morocco-bound.
Post by: comPiler on December 25, 2012, 06:00:18 pm
Morocco-bound. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/12/morocco-bound.html)
25 December 2012, 4:14 pm



I'm leaving soon for 12 days trad climbing in Tafraoute. There's been a lot of shouting about this on UKC recently, needless to say I was inspired to go way before it become a trendy buzz destination. Arrogant but true - I had the book and tried to get it organised last winter but couldn't fit it in. This trip has happened by random chance with a stranger off UKC, but so far my experience of such trips has been pretty positive - usually someone who is syked enough for an interesting destination is syked enough to make a good trip out of it. My intended partner is keen for multi-pitch and a bit of culture, I am keen for technical single pitch and little culture apart from lamb tagines, but with a long trip we should hopefully fit plenty in. The last week has been characterised by the ubiquitous rain, inevitable punterflu, and unsurprising weakness messing around down the wall. None of which should be a problem for Easy Trad (tm), and hopefully my Siurana pre-match friendly will allow me to warm into things well. If it rains I have a lot of e-books and my laptop so might even do a blog thing in the early evenings.

Needless to say I am ignoring Christmas apart from chilling with the family and eating good food. This is about as close to festive spirit as I come: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOOebk_dKFo

:)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Morroco #1
Post by: comPiler on December 28, 2012, 12:00:22 am
Morroco #1 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/12/morroco-1.html)
27 December 2012, 9:36 pm



Morocco  is....

Sunny, chaotic, empty, orange, blue, tiring.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Morocco #2 - proper post.
Post by: comPiler on December 29, 2012, 12:00:53 am
Morocco #2 - proper post. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/12/morocco-2-proper-post.html)
28 December 2012, 9:25 pm



I might have been a bit tired for the previously blog post.

Morocco is....

The scenery:


The weather:


The plants:


The animals:


The people....are really fond of:


The food:


The climbing.....mmm that can wait until next time.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Morocco #3....climbing.
Post by: comPiler on December 31, 2012, 12:00:11 am
Morocco #3....climbing. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/12/morocco-3climbing.html)
30 December 2012, 9:02 pm



Moroccan rock is:


Moroccan climbing is:




Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: 2012: Small holds and big numbers in review.
Post by: comPiler on January 01, 2013, 12:00:47 am
2012: Small holds and big numbers in review. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2012/12/2012-small-holds-and-big-numbers-in.html)
31 December 2012, 11:12 pm



Aka 2012: The Year I'm Not Complaining About Scottish Weather.

Sure the nation's weather might have been screwed up overall, and there was no sign of an Indian Summer, but the Saharan Spring drought in the Highlands And Islands more than compensated for that AND just about for last year's 4 month monsoon debacle (which had encouraged me to have little sympathy for English climbers moaning about their mere 4 continuous weeks of summer rain). 6 weekends in a row in the North West (Skye x 3, Sheigra, Reiff, and Glen Nevis) ensure I had outpaced previous years before Summer had even started (not that it actually did of course).

Outpaced it in exploration that is, in particular getting fully to grips with the sea-cliffs that fringe Syke's jigsaw shape. Keeping up pace in Big Numbers (aka fuck the numbers and enjoy the inspiring challenges) took a while longer, partly because I had forgotten that to summon the determination to try hard, I had to get on something that I needed to try hard on. In the end however, I got on some very cool routes scattered around Scotland and a few in Cornwall too.

Obviously this year as well as being hampered by fucked legs and fitness and weight, I was nursing a TCA-tweaked elbow which like my previous golfer's elbow is fairly chronic. However this didn't cause much of a problem on the Easy Trad and indeed some of the warmer weekends seemed to do it more good than not climbing. Maybe this will be like the previous GE and mysteriously clear up after a year (I'm keeping it careful this winter), at any rate it is manageable. My recent tweaky shoulders, finger, and thumb are also doing okay. What a fucking wreck! But then again after a few gym sessions I've benchpressed my own weight and squatted 100kg, not bad for someone with minimal venous return \m/

The main ones that got away this year were the much-desired Lewis Week, for the second year in a row, and a recent inspiration for Hoy mainland cliffs, as well as harder challenges in Glen Nevis and Creag Dubh. Since I'm staying in Scotland for a wee bit I have another chance for those this coming year, along with the equally long overdue Pfalz and Berdorf plans. With Morocco underway, I think the inspiration list is getting shorter rather than longer?? The inspiration itself isn't fading at all though!!



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Morocco #4 - rest day.
Post by: comPiler on January 03, 2013, 06:00:07 pm
Morocco #4 - rest day. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/01/morocco-4-rest-day.html)
3 January 2013, 3:23 pm



I'm not usually the biggest fan of rest days on winter trips, especially trad ones, as you get rest evenings, rest nights, rest drives to the crag and back. But after 7 days continuous climbing, it actually seems like a good idea. Although I might have to sneak in a couple of blue routes when we visit the painted rocks nearby. Actually it's not the climbing that's been tiring recently, it's the windy single track driving, descending and ascending scrub and prickles, relentless sunshine and shivering at night.

Yesterday I did my first hardish route of the year, which had the best pitch I've climbed out here (Infinity at Lower Eagle Crag), startled a wild boar on the walk-in, tried to follow it and discovered that boar paths through dense brambles might be suitable for 2' high quadrupeds but they certainly aren't for 5'8" high bipeds, did the big route which took all afternoon, enjoyed the evening sun and view down the valley and regular donkey braying, met a very cute kitten back at the car, and fed it fennel infused breadsticks (a firm favourite of mine). Not bad at all.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Morocco #5 - the last few days.
Post by: comPiler on January 09, 2013, 12:00:15 am
Morocco #5 - the last few days. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/01/morocco-5-last-few-days.html)
8 January 2013, 9:13 pm



Morocco - favourite things:

1. - 7. The outrageously belligerent braying of the valley donkeys.

8. The wide variety of good climbing.

9. The ridiculously sooky skinny black cat at the Kasbah.

10. The Berbers wandering around in their pointy-hood wizard robes.

~§~

The last third of our trip was spent in the alternative Anti-Atlas climbers' basecamp of the Kasbah Tizourgine. This is considerably closer to the Northside crags, and is a partially converted hill fort of great character, squinty corridors, an authentic feel and a welcoming and friendly communal restaurant. It also has only small communal bathrooms and bloody cold rooms with no heating. This was a bit of a shock after the regular heated bedroom lounging in Les Ammaniers that took the edge off the chill nights, but tactical overheating at the lounge stove has helped. There is also no wi-fi hence a late update and summary of the last few days thusly:

 

Back home now. Final reports up soon...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Tafraoute route updates / feedback.
Post by: comPiler on January 10, 2013, 06:00:07 pm
Tafraoute route updates / feedback. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/01/tafraoute-route-updates-feedback.html)
10 January 2013, 3:28 pm



As of January 2013:

With reference to What Steve And Katja Did On Their Holidays (aka "Moroccan Anti-Atlas North"), as opposed to What Emma And Paul Did On Their Holidays (aka "Moroccan Anti-Atlas North 2012 Update" aka "Moroccan Rock Jebel El Kest"):

Lower Eagle Crag:

Walk-in should only be attempted direct to Black Beauty or from the left. The walk-in from the right towards Infinity is murderous brambles.

Descent is down the closer slabby gully at the right end of the crag, there are cairns marking the way and this avoids most vegetation.

Infinity E4 5c *** (correct) - amazing first pitch, one of the best in the area, bold off the deck but easy overall. Abseil possible, full route is very unbalanced but fine combination.

Griffin Rock:

Walk-in is more like 5 minutes.

Dennis The Menace HVS 5a ** (not E1 5b) - partner said it was easy.

Grasshopper Arete HS 4b ** (not VS 4c) - partner said it was easy.

Crackerjack E2 5c *** (easy for E3) - brilliant top pitch, steady with good gear and jams etc. Watch ropes on abseil.

Profusion of Protusions E1 5a ** (not E1 5b) - steady crack leading to steady jugs, a bit fragile in places hence worth E1.

Anammer Crag:

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on January 10, 2013, 11:07:37 pm
Brill posts and info, keen to get out to Tafraoute.  :great:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 11, 2013, 09:59:02 am
Thanks :). I could have written a bit more but was a bit tired after most days!!

If you or anyone wants any further / specific information, please post questions here as it's all fresh in my mind....
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on January 11, 2013, 10:13:57 am
Out of interest, how far is all the climbing from the sea?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: slackline on January 11, 2013, 10:26:22 am
I'm keen to go out here somewhen too, cheers for the write-up.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 12, 2013, 10:36:58 am
Chris, assuming you are based in Tafraoute it would be 2+ hours drive to the coast via Tiznit. Climbing-wise it *might* be possible to stay in Tanalt which would take half an hour off the journey but accomodation is unknown. You wouldn't want to alternate the climbing/surfing days as that drive could be tedious (single lane roads) but a general combo trip would be good.

I'm keen to go back there in warmer times to do more of the north-facing stuff.
Title: Last bit of Morocco stuff.
Post by: comPiler on January 14, 2013, 12:00:05 pm
Last bit of Morocco stuff. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/01/last-bit-of-morocco-stuff.html)
14 January 2013, 11:17 am



Video of bloc:

Morocco Quartzite Bloc FA. (http://vimeo.com/57017785)

I was waiting to use this name all week after seeing "a little bit" of bouldering potential (while driving back from multi-pitch crags :)). It all got a bit exciting when I checked out the block at dusk, then realised I had to at least brush and pull on the holds, then had a play and realised I could do all of it but one move, then committed more to that move and realised I had to do the bloody thing before it got dark and we flew out the next morning. A classic compression problem above a good smooth rock shelf, and probably worth ***.

Some pictures:

I took fuck all pictures of crags and climbing, partly because there was just two of us and partly because the guidebook had enough pictures of that stuff. I wish I'd got more photos of the cool boxy-housed mountain villages though.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1A3JzINWoc4/UPPoqU4AMrI/AAAAAAAAA1A/WjrqQRQSy-E/s320/blueme1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1A3JzINWoc4/UPPoqU4AMrI/AAAAAAAAA1A/WjrqQRQSy-E/s1600/blueme1.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-azsIf7R5BPY/UPPot31fqRI/AAAAAAAAA1I/ttzGrhCxm3k/s320/bluerocks3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-azsIf7R5BPY/UPPot31fqRI/AAAAAAAAA1I/ttzGrhCxm3k/s1600/bluerocks3.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--RL7--8bdeg/UPPotREY5PI/AAAAAAAAA1M/oBF-AffpTRE/s320/bluerocks4.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--RL7--8bdeg/UPPotREY5PI/AAAAAAAAA1M/oBF-AffpTRE/s1600/bluerocks4.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SJCSgtWuMxI/UPPot674KLI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/9fD0B69iHpM/s320/bluerocks2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SJCSgtWuMxI/UPPot674KLI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/9fD0B69iHpM/s1600/bluerocks2.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pCrUQskCZHw/UPPoxU6ZrLI/AAAAAAAAA1g/lpyqUS1c5x0/s320/fiend_gaypose.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pCrUQskCZHw/UPPoxU6ZrLI/AAAAAAAAA1g/lpyqUS1c5x0/s1600/fiend_gaypose.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K3iyn5QTtsA/UPPoxX9ks-I/AAAAAAAAA1k/DEu185MNaP0/s320/fingerandthumb.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K3iyn5QTtsA/UPPoxX9ks-I/AAAAAAAAA1k/DEu185MNaP0/s1600/fingerandthumb.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d3tZnSsU8yU/UPPoxWvh7hI/AAAAAAAAA1o/LUu_mvZznUg/s320/donkey.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d3tZnSsU8yU/UPPoxWvh7hI/AAAAAAAAA1o/LUu_mvZznUg/s1600/donkey.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zYczUJquJqg/UPPozQytSkI/AAAAAAAAA14/HCo10Z0YkIA/s320/kasbah.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zYczUJquJqg/UPPozQytSkI/AAAAAAAAA14/HCo10Z0YkIA/s1600/kasbah.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FyT9337tU7o/UPPozvM7cHI/AAAAAAAAA18/oqSCjVmBi7I/s320/kitty3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FyT9337tU7o/UPPozvM7cHI/AAAAAAAAA18/oqSCjVmBi7I/s1600/kitty3.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fbv0IPcgTFM/UPPo0VvswCI/AAAAAAAAA2A/61l6Rqgt-Wo/s320/kasbah2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fbv0IPcgTFM/UPPo0VvswCI/AAAAAAAAA2A/61l6Rqgt-Wo/s1600/kasbah2.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sGkDI6G2SWQ/UPPo3OcjgVI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/RF4AN0cN1P4/s320/tafrasky1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sGkDI6G2SWQ/UPPo3OcjgVI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/RF4AN0cN1P4/s1600/tafrasky1.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZIwWBSHvMh0/UPPo3H3E15I/AAAAAAAAA2U/XZaMCJ7PnNU/s320/tafrakitty.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZIwWBSHvMh0/UPPo3H3E15I/AAAAAAAAA2U/XZaMCJ7PnNU/s1600/tafrakitty.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m5Y2eOSU5wk/UPPo5SfRKRI/AAAAAAAAA2g/gCriiBQ39zE/s320/tafrasky2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m5Y2eOSU5wk/UPPo5SfRKRI/AAAAAAAAA2g/gCriiBQ39zE/s1600/tafrasky2.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_spYPwo29hM/UPPo6iIzJxI/AAAAAAAAA2o/7MskwLHr4NI/s320/tree.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_spYPwo29hM/UPPo6iIzJxI/AAAAAAAAA2o/7MskwLHr4NI/s1600/tree.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RS1p9lkZzeE/UPPo7W_xdjI/AAAAAAAAA2s/LPMlMdlZ3BU/s320/tafrasky3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RS1p9lkZzeE/UPPo7W_xdjI/AAAAAAAAA2s/LPMlMdlZ3BU/s1600/tafrasky3.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LCrPJ0bW1Ng/UPPo7s2KI-I/AAAAAAAAA2w/XDP1hj6uAcs/s320/wakeywakey.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LCrPJ0bW1Ng/UPPo7s2KI-I/AAAAAAAAA2w/XDP1hj6uAcs/s1600/wakeywakey.jpg)

Final bit of advice: Take a big cam (Camalot 4+). Even if you aren't dicking around with wide cracks, it's useful.

Also if you are planning to go in late autumn / early spring, take me with you :). I want to get back to do more of the North-facing stuff....



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: 2013 goals....What now?
Post by: comPiler on January 16, 2013, 06:00:06 pm
2013 goals....What now? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/01/2013-goalswhat-now.html)
16 January 2013, 12:21 pm



2013 goals:

In rough chronological order:

1. Climb some inspiring boulder problems over winter at: Brin, Farr, Laggan, Clash/Cammach, Clova, Ogle, Nanairn, Arran, etc.

It's winter, it's cold, I'm syked. Nuff said. There's some amazing mid-grade lines in Scotland, especially away from Dumby / Porty, and I want to do them :). It's just a matter of keeping fit and keeping an eye on the weather.

2. Go skiing this winter (ideally Alpe D'Huez or Val D'Is).

3rd year in a row without a ski trip?? I bloody well hope not. I really miss it. Hopefully a friend or acquaintance will be up for it, otherwise I might just have to syke up to go on my own.

3. Go to Berdorf in spring - autumn.

Sandstone awesomeness. Just need a dry forecast for Luxembourg and a syked partner - contact me if you fancy it. Oh, and for the website to actually reply to my email about purchasing the guide.

4. Go to Pfalz in spring - autumn.

More sandstone, even more awesome. Sport and trad too! Again just need a dry forecast for South West Germany and a syked partner - I'd like to go for a long week for this one....again contact me.

5. Go to Lewis for a week.

3rd year in a row without getting over there?? I bloody well hope not. Well this year I won't be trying to get to Skye or Sheigra or Caithness or Reiff as much, so when the usual weather window appears, I want to get over there ASAP. Again, if anyone is up for a week there at shortish notice, get in touch!!

6. Climb some inspiring harder trad at: Glen Nevis, Creag Dubh, Wester Ross.

Exactly what it says. The relative accessibility and popularity of these areas should mean it's okay getting on the routes in the odd 2 day weather windows, I just need to be prepared mentally and physically - fitness training, stamina training, trad mileage, and FALLING PRACTICE.

7. Keep up with a general high level of activity - climbing, training, gym, etc, AND FALLING PRACTICE.

As before. I did okay with this last year. With my legs it is utterly fucking essential I keep at it. Climbing-wise it's the usual training and I really want to keep up and improve the falling practice.

8. Be dilligent and look after and hopefully reduce my injuries.

A flying visit to Siurana and two weeks climbing in Morocco has done my elbow and finger a lot of good, with much less pain than a couple of months ago. So obviously these are not just frivolous climbing trips but essential theraputic treatments. My shoulders are a bit achey but that's mostly funny sleep. If I keep dilligent with taping, theraputic treatments, warming up, massage, etc, I should be okay for the trad/travelling season.

9.  Possibly go to Sweden and/or Hatun Machay in summer.

Not sure about fitting either of these in: Sweden is less of a priority than the Sandstone but it would be nice to revisit. Hatun Machay is super-uber-syked-inspiring but complicated and expensive and god knows if I could get someone to go out there climbing. So they are just possibilities.

10. Keep meeting up with climbing partners and fostering positive partnerships.

Always a slow process in the trad-climber-droughtland that is Scotland, but I've got a few good partners to climb with. Except some of them insist on having babies. So I'll still have to keep finding more partners and hopefully keep having good trips with them.

Bonus:

11. Go raving more.

2009: Dave Clarke & Jeff Mills @ The Arches.

2010: Bolt Thrower @ Leeds

2011: Industrial Strength 20th Anniversary @ The Arches

2012: Aphex Twin / Current Value / Producer & Hellfish / Starscream / Wisp etc @ Bangface

Maybe I'll try to get to more than one rave/club this year!! As long as I keep up with the style and quality of the music above, it will be cool :).

What now?

Since it's still winter I don't have to worry too much about route performance yet. Instead I can focus more on bouldering, fun, general activity, and getting plans together for the routes season....




Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Getting Puzzled at Garheugh Point.
Post by: comPiler on January 21, 2013, 12:00:08 pm
Getting Puzzled at Garheugh Point. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/01/getting-puzzled-at-garheugh-point.html)
21 January 2013, 10:00 am



While most of the country is blanketed with snow, it's mostly pretty damn dry and cold in the West of Scotland. But it's not as easy as it looks to follow my bouldering inspiration despite that:

Brin - too far away.

Farr - too farr away.

Laggan - just in the A9 corridor snow zone.

Clash/Cammach - fully in the East coast snow / arctic death zone.

Clova - ditto.

Ogle - too dank with even a little snow.

Nanairn - possibly snow and definitely fucking cold.

Arran - too much of an epic mission atm.

Which leaves local bolleaux like Inversnaid, Craigmaddie (not so inspiring so can wait), or maybe Glen Nevis (tedious drive at the weekend)....or the ever reliable Garheugh Point, which was mostly bone dry, nicely cloudy for the slopers (check out the right handhold at 0:13 - lovely stuff :)), and fairly sheltered from the bitterly Easterlies:

Stretch Armstrong (http://vimeo.com/57807434)

The puzzlement lay with the grades. I'd come to attempt Snow White """V5"""(!? lolz) which starts in the same place, spans out to a proper sloper on the lip and pulls onto the slab direct. I'd tried this before and it is the most stupidly morpho reach-dependent lank-fest of a problem I've encountered in Scotland (albeit rather a good one despite all that). But I thought with the 0'c sending temps I might be able to work something out with the sloper. MEH. I managed to work out the finish from the sloper which is a powerful, dynamic V5 IN ITSELF. That only leaves the crux move to the lip which would probably make it V6 if you could span comfortably, at my height it is fucking desperate and much harder than any V6 (I can only just keep my feet on the only footholds on tiptoes), and if you were any shorter it might as well be V16.

To warm up for this I'd dicked around on Stretch Armstrong which at "V7" was probably going to be too hard but worth a look for future reference. I'd worked out some cool moves but was stumped by getting the arete. After spending ages realising that Snow White was somewhat ludicrous (it still might be possible....eventually), I thought I'd finish off in the dusk just playing around a bit more. Shock horror I worked out the crux sequence using the lovely nothing sloper, just as it was starting get dark. A few panicked attempts and it was done, at least a grade EASIER than Snow White. V7 < V5 errr nope the maths don't add up :S.Great problem though, on cool rock features with a lovely greywacke texture.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Inverness Interlude.
Post by: comPiler on January 25, 2013, 06:00:07 pm
Inverness Interlude. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/01/inverness-interlude.html)
25 January 2013, 3:14 pm



Just what it says on the tin: Lovely weather, lovely conditions, good choice of boulders, exploring and puntering around on one day and savouring the ace friction at Farr on the other day (which was pretty much as good as winter days out get :)).

Strathconon. (http://vimeo.com/58178947)

Perfect winter's day at Farr. (http://vimeo.com/58181987)

So Farr boulder is off my ticklist, and very worthwhile it was too. Another classic Inverness venue. I seem to have had quite a few days out without making a dent in my project problems list, oh well, the weather looks gash for a while but I'm sure there's more proper winter to come...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: richieb on January 26, 2013, 08:35:59 am
Nice one fiend. Big up strathconon esoterica. Did you check out anything else at Meig? What did you reckon to Scatwell?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 27, 2013, 11:11:27 am
Big up strathconon esoterica.
Indeed  :punk:

I didn't do anything else at Meig as I wanted to get over to Farr in the same day. The blocs were pretty cool and I liked the look of Yellow Wall and The Big Wall, but the high finishes were dirty and I think they need an abseil cleaning. I might well combine a return visit with a northwest trad trip over spring and do that.

Scatwell was pretty cool, nice rock (that sort of schist/gneiss hybrid style). I got my arse kicked a bit tho, didn't flash Alcove cos I am a bellend, and spent too long trashing my shoulder on the unlisted direct problem from the Alcove start. Wanted to do Massacre but had got burnt out, would prefer a spotter and decent mats too, wanted to try Domestos but too spanny for my shoulder. PUNTEERING.

Definitely good parts of the rich Inverness bouldering area.

Oh, BTW, I tried to find that "off circuit classic Font 7a" at Duntlechaig (Pixies something??) and couldn't find it. Following the book instructions all I could find was some vague slab above the obvious rusty-gated fence at the first loch inlet, but it was filthy. Wandered around the next boulders too but eventually my trainers got so full of snow I gave up and went home.
Title: Scottish bouldering...
Post by: comPiler on January 28, 2013, 12:00:10 am
Scottish bouldering... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/01/scottish-bouldering.html)
27 January 2013, 8:50 pm



As winter continues and inspiration ebbs and flows and swirls around as chaotically as the weather does, my knowledge of the diversity of Scottish bouldering grows in proportion to the pile of printouts, mini-guides, hidden online topos and cobbled together problem listings that I now carry on many an expedition into the wilds. Whilst Scottish Bouldering provides a characterful and occasionally accurate exposition of the vast breadth and variety that Scottish bouldering has to offer, further investigation into the murky, secretive and highly insular covens of local scenes reveals that SB could just be one volume of many. Consider for example:

The Rankin Boulder @ Galloway

Dam Boulders @ Glen Lednock

The full amount of bouldering in Glen Croe

The full amount of bouldering in Glen Nevis (600 problems in the local guide, most of which are easy and trivial bollox tho, but my own explorations revealled enough potential)

The full amount of bouldering in Glen Clova

Monkey Boulder @ Cambusbarron

Erraid @ Mull

Laggan Boulders @ Dalwhinnie

Farr Boulder, Scatwell Boulder, Loch Meig boulders, the full amount at Brin Rock @ Inverness

Optimus Prime Boulder @ Cammachmore

Sharma Roof @ Aberdeen

The full amount of bouldering in Torridon

Sandstone boulderfield @ Sheigra

Bear in mind these venues vary from a singular boulder with just a couple of awesome lines, to full venues with a full awesome circuit. And that's ignoring the un/under-developed potential of the Trossachs, Cuillin Boulders, Carn Liath, Tollie Crag, Creag Nan Shomarlie....oh and the other Inner and Outer Hebrides...

Another full guidebook?? Yes please. A definitive guide?? Yes definitely. Would John Watson be up for the monumental task?? Maybe not if he has any sanity left. But it would be nice to see all the greatness of Scottish bouldering compiled in full and in-depth - at the same time one could easily lose eliminate bollox like Lower Boltsheugh, Wolfcrag Quarry and Agassi Rock, along with micro-blocs like Muchalls and non-venues like the Luath Stones which vie for being the worst venues in Scotland, quality should take precedence over locality.   As always it offends my sense of fair play that Dumby and Porty are so myopically over-subscribed whilst most people I know haven't even heard of some of the fine venues above. Despite the weather and the midges and the vast amount of travelling and the under-used rock and cleaning required and highly disparate climbing scenes, Scottish bouldering is excellent as a totality and should be celebrated as such. People should be promoting the value and virtures of new and rediscovered venues, not leaving the information to languish just as some of the boulders do. And for those who want solitude and hidden blocs there is always the next hill, the next glen...

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: Scottish bouldering...
Post by: Fiend on January 28, 2013, 10:08:08 am
Edited before SAChris takes too much offense at an early draft:

at the same time one could easily lose eliminate bollox like Lower Boltsheugh, Wolfcrag Quarry and Agassi Rock, along with micro-blocs like Muchalls and non-venues like the Luath Stones which vie for being the worst venues in Scotland, quality should take precedence over locality.   

Should and now reads:

Quote from: newlyupdatedblog
at the same time one could easily reduce eliminate bollox like Lower Boltsheugh, Wolfcrag Quarry and Agassi Rock to footnotes, along with micro-blocs micro-venues like the Luath Stones, quality should take precedence over locality. 

The former was from a first and inappropriate draft which I forgot to change, now fixed.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on January 28, 2013, 10:13:54 am
:) I was just typing a response! To be fair if Muchalls wasn't (literally) on my doorstep it wouldn't have got that much of my attention. There are a half dozen excellent problems though, worthy of attention when the conditions are right. And a fair bit more in the area to develop, which will probably be better.

John Watson is actually talking about producing definitive guides by area, I think one volume for the whole of Scotland would be just a bit too much.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: andy_e on January 28, 2013, 10:18:29 am
John Watson is actually talking about producing definitive guides by area

 :goodidea:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 28, 2013, 10:43:40 am
Aye I went to Muchalls when the tide was in and did fuck all, I wasn't impressed myself but grant that there's probably a good circuit of easy problems and the scenery is rather nice. Went to Luath irrespective of tides and also did fuck all, great rock but hardly anything is an actual problem rather than just a move, except the good upper boulder.

One would probably only need a guide 2-3 times the size of the current SB, then again a NW/everything else divide like Gary's Scottish Rock books could work well.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Jack.G on January 28, 2013, 12:58:11 pm
How many problems are detailed in BinS at the moment, 500 or so?

A definitive guide for the north east alone would be at least double that, and alot more than double the venues/single blocs.

I believe Kevin Howett is/was in the process of pulling a guide together.

Have to laugh  "Scottish bouldering grows in proportion to the pile of printouts, mini-guides, hidden online topos and cobbled together problem listings that I now carry on many an expedition into the wilds." so totally true!
I have a regular-use pile in the car and loads of randoms scatted around the house / garage/ work. BinS never leaves the house, good for reference though.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 28, 2013, 01:39:39 pm
Hmmm, what is there in the North East apart from what is in BINS +

Cammachmore Optimus Prime
New Clash stuff
Sharma Roof
Craig Corn Arn new stuff that Rankin's on about
Cullen Caves extra problems

(I mean proper independent bouldering not just break traversing and eliminates at the bottom of a crag)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on January 28, 2013, 01:58:23 pm
All the stuff Mike Cunningham and co have been developing in and around the Angus Glens.

Katy's Leap (no idea of quality, looks OK though)

Boddam Lighthouse (not extensive but good rock)

Other stuff coolboy has been developing - check his youtube

Banff Beach - dozen or so probs (nothing too hard apart from dyno project). Need to write it up sometime.

Girdleness Bouldering - only about half dozen probs and good traverse, but a few projects.

Clochindare Cave (aka Muchalls Cave)

I think Tim Rankin still has a few aces up his sleeve.

I've got a few things earmarked once I get some fitness and some decent weather, plus a decent spotter or two.



Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: andy_e on January 28, 2013, 02:01:08 pm
Tim Rankin's got the longest sleeves in the country in that case!

I heard tell of a place up in the woods near Milltimber or Peterculter or something. Anyone know of that?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on January 28, 2013, 02:08:19 pm
Tim Rankin's got the longest sleeves in the country in that case!

I heard tell of a place up in the woods near Milltimber or Peterculter or something. Anyone know of that?

It's not length it's girth :) But yes he does.

Never heard of anthing out that way, but wouldn't surprise me. There are a couple mentioned in the back of NEO, but they don't sound too inspiring.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 28, 2013, 03:28:08 pm
I doubt a definitive guide for the NE would be half the size of BINS let alone double it. Still it shows there is more stuff to be exposed and promoted.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Jack.G on January 28, 2013, 10:54:36 pm
In NEO area over 50 individual venues (pm me if you want a list anyone, a bit big to post) and easily 1000 + problems. (This obviously doesnt include any that SA Chris, Coolboy, Tim, I or any others may be keeping quiet about  :P)

BinS has included 10 or so of these venues and a small selection of the established probs.

Plenty of development still to be had :thumbsup:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 29, 2013, 09:43:21 am
Sounds like someone needs to share this information and publicise these venues so other climbers can go and enjoy them....
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on January 29, 2013, 09:52:27 am
I'll share if you help clean. And platform build. And spot.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 29, 2013, 10:21:12 am
I meant the stuff Jack G is talking about. Fair game to keep new stuff / projects secret.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: psk89 on January 29, 2013, 04:10:33 pm
Tim Rankin's got the longest sleeves in the country in that case!

I heard tell of a place up in the woods near Milltimber or Peterculter or something. Anyone know of that?

It's not length it's girth :) But yes he does.

Never heard of anthing out that way, but wouldn't surprise me. There are a couple mentioned in the back of NEO, but they don't sound too inspiring.

There is Anguston Quarry which is filling with water and listed in outcrops as chossy the farmer is also filling it with rubbish.  But i think the one you have heard of would come on the map as Guttrie hill its behind where the old international school is.  Popular with dog walkers not much there except one maybe two steep lines and some slabby stuff.

In NEO area over 50 individual venues (pm me if you want a list anyone, a bit big to post) and easily 1000 + problems. (This obviously doesnt include any that SA Chris, Coolboy, Tim, I or any others may be keeping quiet about  :P)

Gonna shoot you a PM or anyone else feel free as im looking for info on a few of the "micro" venues in Aberdeen portlethen harbour, Findon, berrymuir head, cobble boards craig stirling? and a few others
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: andy_e on January 29, 2013, 04:17:17 pm
Aye, that sounds about right. Cheers!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on January 29, 2013, 04:18:41 pm
Jack G, I've pmed you too.

Not sure what the :wank: was intended for?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: psk89 on January 29, 2013, 04:21:23 pm
Jack G, I've pmed you too.

Not sure what the :wank: was intended for?

Laptop was being slow must of clicked one by mistake
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: andy_e on January 29, 2013, 04:23:24 pm
Must have been aimed at Fiend  ;)
Title: The Long Game at Laggan.
Post by: comPiler on February 03, 2013, 06:00:08 pm
The Long Game at Laggan. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/02/the-long-game-at-laggan.html)
3 February 2013, 4:42 pm



Day 1 - Grey and breezy. Went to Laggan 1, had a ruckus with the farmer (thankfully resolved), drove to Laggan 2 but so disillusioned I didn't even walk in.

Day 2 - Bright and snowy. Got to the bloc, the top was covered in snow and I couldn't even get up the downclimb to clean it. Worked out all the moves, got on the upper arete but hands to numb to hang on.

Day 3 - Grey and still. Got to the bloc, got on top of the bloc, cleaned the upper arete. Kinda claggy day and greased off top arete twice. Not wise.

Day 4 - Forecast breezy and sunny. Drove to Dalwhinnie. Breezy and....heavy cloud and horizontal sleet.

Day 5 - Bright and crisp. Tore tiny flapper in left finger and large blood blister in right thumb. But discovered that it's a lot easier to climb on clean dry rock that's not covered in snow or condensation....

But THIS was worth the effort:

One of the best problems in the UK... (http://vimeo.com/58823144)

Remember what I was saying about:

"Climbing some totally brilliant problem with great moves up a natural line in beautiful wild surroundings and wondering why the fucking hell no-one else puts the effort into travelling a bit further from Dumby / Porty to actually climb these damn things and it's left for some outsider who isn't local, nor a long-term resident nor even a fucking boulderer to actually get out and do them??"
  Well that's what I was talking about :).

As a bonus, here's the flipside of Scottish bouldering: Dodgy eliminate with arbitrary positions and boring grade debate. But hey it was a fun problem in it's own right:

Chop chop. (http://vimeo.com/58619642)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: GazM on February 03, 2013, 06:21:02 pm
Good effort Fiend. It's nice to see the old place getting some attention.  I really rated this as a classic line, just wish there were more of them up there.  Strongbow at Laggan 2 next?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 03, 2013, 06:52:11 pm
Nah too much of a hassle getting into there, for something that could take multiple sessions, and I've got urgent appointments with Brin, Ruthven, Glen Clova, Cammachmore, Narnairn, Glen Ogle, errr....

Well done on finding and climbing this, it truly is a classic. Has anyone tried/climbed the wall to the left yet??

Also that """6c""" on the opposite boulder is closer to 7c :0
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: tomtom on February 03, 2013, 07:27:41 pm
Thats a great looking (and climbing prob) at Laggan2...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on February 03, 2013, 08:39:28 pm
Thats a great looking boulder. Nice cusping and good kneeage
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Falling Down on February 03, 2013, 08:53:38 pm
Effort Matt. 
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 03, 2013, 10:18:37 pm
Thanks....although not a particular challenge for me (weather aside!), it's a good example of why I keep doing these narcissitic bollox videos and waffling on about climbing....because it shows off stuff that, as far as I know, not many people (apart from GaZ and Richie ;-)) get round to doing.

BTW it's a GUPPY. I don't cusp >:(

P.S. Just to be sure, afaik this is Gaz's problem (stander and sitter....it's a good natural sitter), he deserves any karma for finding it and writing it up.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: GazM on February 04, 2013, 10:19:07 am
I wish it was my creation, but  I actually got shown that boulder by Mike Gale from Aviemore (who wrote the old laminated Strathspey bouldering guide) and he did the stand start.  He's done a fair bit of stuff round SDtrathspey over the years but didn't spend much time at Laggan (dunno why cos it's far and away the best venue).  I named it after him cos he couldn't be arsed naming his stuff.  I then worked out a sit start and my mate Blair pipped me to doing it first by about 2 minutes.  Story of my bouldering career.  Same thing happened when I showed Dave Mac what rapidly became Strongbow.

Most of the other (less amazing) stuff was cleaned and done by me though, and I gave Gale Force a bit of a spring clean when I started going up there.  I've moved up to Inverness now so not been to Laggan for ages.  Must have a return soon.

As for the wall left of GF, it's not been done as far as I know.  I gave it a few tries last winter and was pretty psyched but having moved away it remains to be done.  Being the only local activist and being weak like a kitten there are still some hard things to do at Laggan 1 and 2.

Keep up the Highland bouldering Fiend, it's good to see this stuff being appreciated.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 04, 2013, 10:59:26 am
Okay then people, punter Gaz for missing out the SS FA by 2 mins :P

You publicised it tho....that is very useful.

While you're up in Inverness can you clean off the Meig Crag boulders, thanks  :smartass:



(Edit: by "not a particular challenge", I didn't mean to sound cocky....I meant that although it was challenging and I found it hard enough, I was confident from the start I could do it and it didn't go beyond my comfort level, so the satisfaction was from doing a cool problem rather than an uncertain outcome project)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on February 04, 2013, 11:10:23 am
he deserves any karma for finding it and writing it up.

Make it so then.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 04, 2013, 11:56:34 am
As for the wall left of GF, it's not been done as far as I know.  I gave it a few tries last winter and was pretty psyched but having moved away it remains to be done.  Being the only local activist and being weak like a kitten there are still some hard things to do at Laggan 1 and 2.

How hard roughly is wall left of GF? What are the other notable things that remain to be done?Any clues?  ;)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: GazM on February 04, 2013, 12:26:22 pm
Honestly, I couldn't tell you how hard the wall left of GF is. Probably harder than 7a+ (my best effort to date)....
The other hard stuff is at Laggan 1 - anything on the big steep wall left of Strongbow,
or on the 'Project Wall' which is up the hill a bit (amazing looking wall but is only bone dry in long dry spells).

Beegsyboy put some photos up in the QB pics thread last year, http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8949.1450.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8949.1450.html)

I don't know how to link straight to them.  Sorry!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on February 04, 2013, 12:34:33 pm
How hard roughly is wall left of GF? What are the other notable things that remain to be done?Any clues?  ;)

Wolftrax at Laggan is small but good too if you haven't been Adam. What you need is a nice converted van to head up there for a weekend in with pads + bike.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 04, 2013, 12:36:32 pm
How hard roughly is wall left of GF? What are the other notable things that remain to be done?Any clues?  ;)

Wolftrax at Laggan is small but good too if you haven't been Adam. What you need is a nice converted van to head up there for a weekend in with pads + bike.

 :-\ Nice van hey? Hmmmmm....  ;)

Keen for Wolftrax. Building up to Fort William, need to grow some big bike balls!

Went to Glentress 3 times last week. Time for Inners downhills now.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 04, 2013, 12:38:23 pm
 :off: :spank:

Adam most Scottish bouldering venues have potential for more hard things, get out and get exploring...
Title: Carrock Flail and Etive Excretions.
Post by: comPiler on February 14, 2013, 12:00:05 pm
Carrock Flail and Etive Excretions. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/02/carrock-flail-and-etive-excretions.html)
14 February 2013, 9:45 am



Carrock... A sketchy wee problem above a sketchy wee terrace and long slope....If I missed the final move I would end up back down at the car!!

Monkey Trunk standing start. (http://vimeo.com/59611013)

The best winter friction bouldering in Scotland is....Carrock Fell?? Sure there are contenders around Wester Ross and Inverness and maybe Glen Nevis, but most of these still involve cranking hard or reaching hard. Carrock seems to have a fair amount of proper friction bouldering i.e. rough burly sloper problems I can just cheat my way up in sub-zero temperatures, which would otherwise be impossible for a fat weak puntersaurus outside of winter. Ignoring some arbitrary eliminates and sticking to the strong lines, it's rather good really.

So this was supposed to be another (link) day of awesomely crisp sending conditions, yet somehow I managed to noob it up... Warmed up, rock looked dank and dark but felt good, fingers went nicely numb and firm-skinned. Trotted uphill to recce other problems with gloves on waiting for the hot aches for the next round. Took gloves off and my left hand had gone totally soft and soggy WTFingF?? Pulled on to Terrace Wall, felt shit, had many goes on Kit's Grooved Arete interspersed with lying down waving my bare hands in the breeze, felt shit and failed on what is pretty much a descent route. Squeezing micro-drops of sweat out of my fingers, despite it being cold enough to freeze them... Eventually they dried up enough, I tantrumed my way through working Monkey Trunk, tore the same bloody micro-flapper on the same scar-line ridge on my finger I did last session, went down to Old Spice, worked out a possible sequence just in time for me to have to leave ASAP, and twinged my shoulder putting the mats on my back. PUNTER. Also fuck those stupid gloves, I've ripped the thinsulate inners out and not making that mistake again.

Etive...

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WVAV3253kb0/URy2TWisGuI/AAAAAAAAA3M/Io1bjTAS6XY/s400/etive1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WVAV3253kb0/URy2TWisGuI/AAAAAAAAA3M/Io1bjTAS6XY/s1600/etive1.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Enmhx0U3oPg/URy2XkcJ1cI/AAAAAAAAA3U/ItJJZC_RiaU/s400/etive2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Enmhx0U3oPg/URy2XkcJ1cI/AAAAAAAAA3U/ItJJZC_RiaU/s1600/etive2.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CudyDLe5lao/URy2a-F-y8I/AAAAAAAAA3c/Ix9Ef8Rvlus/s400/etive3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CudyDLe5lao/URy2a-F-y8I/AAAAAAAAA3c/Ix9Ef8Rvlus/s1600/etive3.jpg)

Prior to this, last week's semi-aborted mission was to the Glen Etive boulders, again trying to maximise the icy temps by dabbling in some off-piste granite. Suffice to say that the Etive boulders combine possibly the most beautiful bouldering situation in Scotland - on the sun-dappled shores of a stream-fed sea-loch in tranquil and expansive glen, with the "extreme walking" of the Etive Slabs sitting entirely unappealingly above - with some of the most mediocre bouldering. For context: When TCA first opened in Glasgow, one of my few but valid complaints, aside from the hideous Holdz holds, was the few problems that spoiled the otherwise good setting by having ugly and unenjoyable sit-start crux graunches on pointlessly poor holds leading to easier proper climbing above. Thankfully these tedious aberrations have mostly been weeded out - indoor climbing is always training for outdoor climbing, and if you were faced with such a shit start outside, you wouldn't waste time on a shit problem, so why was time training for it?? The main Etive boulder proved exactly this, with most "problems" being horrendous butt-clenching cranks off miserable holds to gain proper holds and one more move to top out. A non-move wonder with a crap sit-start doesn't make a boulder problem it just makes a worse non-move wonder. Suffice to say it was actually a relief when I'd tried enough that it was time to go.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s6A1pb-6lRw/URy2mkw7qRI/AAAAAAAAA3o/S7tcJnjeoeM/s320/etivedeer0.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s6A1pb-6lRw/URy2mkw7qRI/AAAAAAAAA3o/S7tcJnjeoeM/s1600/etivedeer0.jpg)

In between these two mighty expeditions, I had a mild stomach bug that wiped me out for a day and another day recovering and actually eating, a fairly dire TCA session where it seems all of my technique has been shat out of my arse along with any remaining vestiges of strength, another decent GCC session where it felt quite nice just pulling on holds, and a shockingly bad lack of motivation for the gym, hence feeling heavy and sluggish. Hmph. Still there is enough winter left and hopefully enough syke!



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: duncan on February 14, 2013, 12:10:57 pm
Where are the Etive boulders?  I can't picture them at all. 

You're right about it being the most glorious venue but wrong about the extreme walking.  It's ace!

Hammer, P3.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TwYTR591nVg/ShHWe_x7JRI/AAAAAAAAA9Q/m1v4nY66ajY/s640/P1000520.JPG)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on February 14, 2013, 12:15:18 pm
It is extreme walking, but still very good. I always though it was the boulder on the little promontory in the top left.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 14, 2013, 02:47:47 pm
Aye I think Chris is right.
Title: Inverness Incursion.
Post by: comPiler on February 18, 2013, 12:00:13 am
Inverness Incursion. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/02/inverness-incursion.html)
17 February 2013, 10:23 pm



Raaargh Ruthven boulder. (http://vimeo.com/59853094)

The attack:

After the retreat (see below), I returned to the ever-reliable Ruthven (even more so now some sensible person has cleared some heather off the top). As always this gave a good micro-session of proper powerful bouldering on great rock above great landings, with the shady side providing essential respite from the shocking 10'c temps around Inverness. The Dude I hadn't really considered until a previous session in which a fellow boulderer pointed out if was actually quite reasonable. Which it was, but excellent of course. Slippery Sloper bollox problem had taken enough skin off on both visits for me to firmly decide it was indeed a bollox graunch of a problem and I didn't like it as much as it didn't like me. I'm not sure what happened this time as despite the relative above-zero warmth, I got the move sorted and actually enjoyed it. The Big Lebowski was wet at the end so there's still something to come back for.

The retreat:

Brin Done Before was the first truly inspiring problem I saw in Scotland (outside of Dumby which I'd already got slightly jaded with even before I moved up), and over three years later it is still mesmerising: A jaunty prow jutting precariously a long way above a decent landing, all funky angles and massive steepness leading to a wildly high finish. It's been on my mind since I spied it in the depths of winter, and I've been pondering how to deal with the highball nature without a spotter or half-decent pads. My memory must have been poor as I was envisaging a weird slopey terracey landing, and had planned to warm up by extensively patioing this with local tree debris. But it isn't like that, the landing is "okay", just gently undulating with a few minor rocks. The problem is - apart from the steepness and height - the weird angles of the roof and the weird off balance slaps along a finger seam to get through it. Each move your body could fly off in a different direction, without even getting to the finish. On my own I think I'd need FOUR pads (at least two good ones), with a spotter probably just three. So I will be rallying the troops for a return visit - hopefully it's very-top-end-of-three-stars classic nature, easy access, lovely location, and good circuit options will be enticing to someone.

The surrender:

The next day I went to Glen Nevis to try to mop up more new problems on the Southside. To cut a boring day short, the main problem I wanted to do was in theory a mini-classic - a short steep prow with a good landing, clean line, great starting holds for a natural sitter, nice slopey finish....the only problem the rock is so outrageously rough it is like fridgehugging up a giant cheesegrater that's been sculpted out of gravel. Despite baltic conditions, I don't think I have the skin for it, nor the inclination to keep wasting layers trying. After many attempts and just as much puzzlement I felt a bit too tender and battered and sacked it off. On the plus side the Polldubh crags are getting loads of sun now so it could be trad action soon YEAH.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  extreme walking
Post by: Muenchener on February 18, 2013, 06:56:35 am
It is extreme walking, but still very good.

Hammer was ok, but I'm suspicious of any route where my strongest memory is not climbing it but sinking the Friend 2.5 at the end of the runout.

The Long Reach was, I think, the most scared I have ever been. If was in the States you'd at least get one or two of those little hand-drilled bolts per pitch (and still be allowed to call it "trad").
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on February 18, 2013, 12:04:12 pm
And if it was Europe it would have about 6 decent bolts per pitch.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: richieb on February 19, 2013, 06:38:20 pm
Give me a shout next time you come up to Brin fiend. Even if I can't make it out you are welcome to call in and borrow some pads.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 19, 2013, 08:16:32 pm
Thanks dude, that's a kind offer  :)
Title: Good cranking at Glen Clova
Post by: comPiler on February 20, 2013, 06:00:14 pm
Good cranking at Glen Clova (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/02/good-cranking-at-glen-clova.html)
20 February 2013, 4:29 pm



Rad roofism. (http://vimeo.com/60063656)

Not much more to say except it really was that warm, even hanging out between attempts, but the rock was still cool and the problem was brilliant, another unsung gem that every Scottish boulderer should do as part of a Clova visit.

Skin is still tender tho.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Gathering problems at Garheugh Point.
Post by: comPiler on February 23, 2013, 06:00:10 pm
Gathering problems at Garheugh Point. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/02/gathering-problems-at-garheugh-point.html)
23 February 2013, 2:15 pm



Big Growly Thing V5 * , Garheugh Point

The hanging "bear's arse" at the left end of the prominent Barrel Roof in the roadside bay just N of the wee stream. Start sitting from a L sloper and R sidepull crimp, and gain the arete via a variety of shenanigans. Pull onto the slab finish and a short drop off. Slightly flakey rock around but fun climbing, decent landing, and a sheltered spot.

fiend big1 (http://vimeo.com/60191282)

Tried this last spring I think, it took a while to work out a sequence, including pulling off a hanging fang where the roof undercling now is, and it was too warm for the upper sloper. Went back the other month and it was seeping. Went back recently and it was all good. There are many possible sequences, and it took me another hour of working before I remembered the kneebar. Overall it is a funky problem with the ground usefully rising up beneath you, so you get a decent amount of climbing for it's low height.

The funny thing about Scotland is there are so many decent-good new lines to do, some of them aren't even that epic, that distant, or require that much excavating, just putting a bit of effort in. But I tend to prefer new problems that will actually get climbed (definitely not guaranteed in Scottish bouldering), either a whole new circuit, or something truly classic, or useful additions to a current circuit. I've got a couple of other such lines up my sleeve but then again it's starting to get towards routes season soon and my 7aMax guide needs some testing...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: davej on February 23, 2013, 08:13:31 pm
Hi Fiend nice looking problem. Is this the barrel shaped overing right by the road?? If so has anyone tried to
climb straight out the cave?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 23, 2013, 10:44:19 pm
Yup that's the roof, listed as a potential project in the Scottish Climbs guide. As I replied to Goosejoy about the roof: "That barrel roof is an interesting feature, and it's got lovely rock, but it's not ideal for getting lines through it. A radical direct sitter from the very back is marred by the back wall being perma-soaking. A pull through from headheight onto the bulge and then over the next capping roof would be possible but probably not that pleasant. The best use might well be a traverse from a sensible pull on at the right end, along into this problem (or an earlier finish)."
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: davej on February 24, 2013, 02:05:37 pm
Yup that's the roof
Thought it was looked at it a while back will try your problem next time i'm up that way
Title: Brilliant Brin, Funky Fleet.
Post by: comPiler on February 27, 2013, 12:00:10 pm
Brilliant Brin, Funky Fleet. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/02/brilliant-brin-funky-fleet.html)
27 February 2013, 11:46 am



Brin Done Before! (http://vimeo.com/60642373)

Over 3 years later I've finally got back to Brin with a bouldering partner (my first time out this season with a friend, too!), and finally done Brin Done Before (what a crap name for an amazing problem). It's not hard but it's high and committing and totally brilliant and I had to dismount into the tree a couple of times before working out the finish, just as the sleet came in and soaked everything.

From sleet to Fleet and the next day in glorious sunshine we drove up to Loch Fleet and trekked up to Creag An Amalaidh, a new crag in the 7aMax guide. This was developed by the guide authors so obviously all slightly overgraded and slightly overrated, but still a good early season venue, on interesting conglomerate that's more like Sarclett than Moy. 6 routes with shirt off and beanie on and hard to believe this was February in Northern Scotland.

Routes season open then!!



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Amazing Autumn Arete At Achray, And Aberdeen Adventures.
Post by: comPiler on March 04, 2013, 12:00:11 pm
Amazing Autumn Arete At Achray, And Aberdeen Adventures. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/03/amazing-autumn-arete-at-achray-and.html)
4 March 2013, 10:12 am



Only the beginning of March and I might have reached the apex of alliteration??

Also I've quite possibly reached the apex of quality Scottish Bouldering....unlike last winter season during which I managed to studiously avoid doing any of the good problems off my list, this season I've put the effort in and got lucky with the weather and managed to do most of the best problems I was inspired by, and even sneak in a few others. Autumn Arete is a prime example - I'd read the entry on UKC and knew where Achray Wall was, but didn't know where in the maze of hillocks, inlets and woodland the blocs might be. The crag moderator declined to reply or post any details (now submitted) and I forgot about it until discovering it was listed in the Scottish 2010 Update thingy - it turns out the bloc is hidden in plain view just around the corner!!

Awesome Autumn Arete. (http://vimeo.com/60860429)

Once again this is a real classic problem - a great independent line with a good landing and climbing that is at once powerful, technical, frictional, and continuous. Once again I don't know any of my bouldering friends that have done it despite being roadside and less than an hour from Glasgow. And the Glengoyne distillery is en-route (literally - it sprawls across the A83) and their 12 y/o is not bad at all - spicey on the nose but mellow on the finish.

~{§}~

From Achray to Aberdeen for the first trad of the spring and whilst Achray was so warm in the sun I had to work the problem with my shirt off and wait for the sun to disappear before it was climbable, in Aberdeen we ended up getting chased away by the seeping gnawing cold. At this time of year it's all about getting to specific cliffs (often the best ones, especially on the Northern coast)? before the birds come back. Of course while March is guaranteed nest-free, it's not guaranteed to have good conditions, as the main rule of the coast is: Never the same thing twice! Two days of seemingly identical weather can bring two days of polar opposing conditions.
The first day at Red Band Cliffs was okay - merely greasy, but warm enough. The second day at Arthur Fowlie was harsh - early evening showers should have been negated by a breeze and morning sun, but it was fairly damp and the wind snuck around the cliff edge and seized my body up until everything was done in slow motion. Still, a few good routes at the former and a couple of easier (or harder, it felt!) classics at the latter, and two new cliffs checked out, and an early start to the trad season....it's all just mileage, warming up, seeing what needs to be worked on...

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Ogling at Ogle.
Post by: comPiler on March 07, 2013, 12:00:19 am
Ogling at Ogle. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/03/ogling-at-ogle.html)
6 March 2013, 10:59 pm



Yet another classic ticked off the list! This might be my best bouldering season ever for sheer diversity and quality...

Ogling at Ogle. (http://vimeo.com/61169307)

I spotted Pyramid Lip the first time I went to Ogle (2009? Or 2010?) for an easy circuit session. It looked too hard then and it got dark or I got scared or something, but I could see it looked waaaay cooler than it's meagre 1 star indicated, so well worth going back for. Suffice to say it is... I'm quite chuffed because it plays to my weaknesses as a short fat person - gut busting pulls around a lip - but it went quickly. A couple of goes where it felt impossible, a couple where I realised it was mostly about trusting the right foot, and then put the nerves about pinging off the reach up out of my mind, and sent the next go. Thanks to Tris once again for the now-long-term loan of an extra mat. And the soundtrack was what I was listening to in the car on the way back - Acid Drop by Freethinker, proper headbanging stuff, I love it.

So this leaves my spring/summer bouldering list looking mostly like:

The Bottler - Loch Lomond

Nameless Pimp Toy - Stronlachlar

??? - Loch Sloy

Abracadabra, Craigmaddie

Various - Glen Massan

Various - Narnairn Boulders

Various - Chasm Boulder

Various - Cammachmore

Various - Moray Boulders

With possible options for Reiff, Torridon, and maybe a bit more around Aberdeen. Sacking off the Arran boulders because I can't be fucked with the ferry, and adding Glen Coe's Chasm boulder as it's a reasonable journey and could be good for a power top-up, and Glen Massan cos it's a decent schist venue I got rained off last summer (on a glorious forecast day of course).

Having said all that the weather is now shit for a bit which is possibly a good thing as it will allow me to focus on much-needed stamina training for routes and much-needed gym work for my shoulder. I also need to start seriously rallying the troops for the spring routes season!!



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on March 07, 2013, 09:11:33 am
Looks quite cool but, God damn! That music is terrible! I actually had to mute it in order to watch and my head still hurts! :chair:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 07, 2013, 09:38:16 am
Good good, my work is done  :2thumbsup:

I have to mute 80% of music on climbing clips because I don't like it or often outright hate it. To be fair if it was reggae or dub I wouldn't mute it tho.
Title: Routes routes routes.
Post by: comPiler on March 08, 2013, 12:00:14 am
Routes routes routes. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/03/routes-routes-routes.html)
7 March 2013, 6:41 pm



What do I need to do to be able to do the following routes and visit the following places??

(Apart from the usual challenge of finding syked partners and getting suitable weather...)

Answers in the blogspot comments please :) Offers of joining me at these invariably excellent crags in comments / email / text / facebook / phone / etc etc...

Priority routes:

Ardmair:

Neart Nan Gaidheal

Burning Desire

Glen Nevis:

On The Beach

Other Wave routes

Triode

Risque Grapefruit

Aquarian Rebels

Creag Dubh:

Colder Than A Hooker's Heart

The Final Solution

Acapulco

Bratach Uaine

Ayatollah

Other routes:

North West:

Tollie Crags:

Each Uisge Direct

North East:

Moray Coast:

Lime Street

The Prow

Bat's Wall

The Essential

Senakot Rose

Old Fashioned Waltz

Aberdeen area:

Bob's Overhang

Downies' Syndrome

Smith's Arete

Central Highlands:

Glen Lednock:

No Place For A Wendy

Diamond Cutter

Glen Croe:

Edge Of Insanity

Short Sharp Shock

Priority venues:

Lewis - 1 week trip:

Dalbeg, Mangestra, etc.

Orkney - 3 days trip:

Yesnaby, etc.

Other venues:

Super crag (Lochinver)

Reiff

Loch Tollaidh Crags

Stone Valley Crags

Diabeg

Seal's Cave (pre-birds)

Black Dyke (pre-birds)

Cambusbarron

Limekilns

Finnart's Point (Galloway)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Traversing the Trossachs, and training
Post by: comPiler on March 16, 2013, 12:00:09 pm
Traversing the Trossachs, and training (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/03/traversing-trossachs-and-training.html)
16 March 2013, 11:38 am



...and no bloody routes, yet. Winter returned with a minor vengence - a possibly routes day with B last Sunday turned into scrounging "easy" problems at Glen Croe in between horizontal blizzards (with the usually beastly B confirming that The Nose is hardly the V2 warm-up the grade implies. Solid V4 and a solid classic). Good fun but hardly getting me ready for a season of trad awesomeness. So it's back to the blocs for a bit:

Crimpy Crystal Classics (http://vimeo.com/61798963)

I trotted into Loch Lomond East and did The Bottler, a bit disappointing not to flash this as I prepared pretty well and only muffed one hand sequence at the top. Cool climbing despite the obligatory step-off finish. I also went back to St Bride's wall and got a clip of White Matter, this is a powerful and accessible classic that's well worth showing (and doing!). Still pretty fierce too. Pimp With A Limp was done last autumn but it fits the theme of showing what's out in those hills.

LDV only legitimate sequence. (http://vimeo.com/61888882)

I also returned to Cambusbarron on a whim to try to arete project I found in 2010. Another couple of hours playing on it confirmed it was absolutely fucking nails and someone really needs to do it but that won't be me. The same applies to the Monkey Bloc slab, so I consoled myself by doing LDV the proper way, it's a brilliant easy problem too, better than anything on the grit ;).

Other than that I have started training for routes - indoor routes and falling practise and stamina circuits at TCA when my fingers can handle the pain of the crimps. I feel on pretty good form at the moment with all my tweaks fading and condensing solely into a left shoulder impingment which is far more aggravated by sleeping on it badly than by any climbing, and having a reasonable strength on the boulders that could be built on for route climbing.

The main issue is my appalling fitness and weight as I am stupidly fucking fat and heavy - now up to 12 fucking stone 2 fucking pounds, so over a stone overweight. Fucking infuriating as it is so hard to burn off.....yeah I survived another 10 minute run last night without passing out but really that does fuck all. Train heavy and then get light only makes sense when it's physically possibly to get light, and motivation is so hard when almost any form of CV is so hard....but I did get more inspired by the gym recently so maybe there is hope.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Homecoming...
Post by: comPiler on March 24, 2013, 12:00:10 pm
Homecoming... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/03/homecoming.html)
24 March 2013, 9:40 am



March 2012....Jetty Buttress....First routes trip of the year to the North West. After a dire and soaking 2011, I was so happy to be back in my favourite area of Scottish climbing, I just sat at the base of the crag, soaking in the classic gneiss, the beautiful view across the bay, the quiet road scarcely 50m below, and felt like I'd come home...

March 2013....Jetty Buttress....First routes trip of the year to the North West. After a dry and satisfying 2012, I was still so happy to be back in my favourite area of Scottish climbing, I just sat at the base of the crag, soaking in the classic gneiss, the beautiful view across the bay, the quiet road scarcely 50m below, and felt like I'd come home...

I just love Wester Ross. It's felt special to me ever since 2008 when The Pylon King and I drove out of Torridon to escape the one morning of drizzle we had in a week of sunshine there, and happened upon the oasis of civilisation that is Gairloch, climbed at Gruinard Crag and Loch Tollaidh, and revelled in the spectacle of the mountains, hills and hummocks,  and the coastline of bays, sea-lochs and islands. With supremely accessible trad and sport cragging, the nearby delights of Ardmair and Reiff, and a plethora of classic blocs, it is hard to beat.

This time the weather was fairly brisk. Day 1 at Jetty Buttress was sheltered enough to enjoy sunshine and steady trad. Day 2 at Reiff presented the choice of sun and strong winds or shelter and shade, resulting in a lot of numb fingers on short routes, some great bouldering, and 10 whole minutes where we felt warm (2nd problem in the video below ;)). As well as useful trad mileage (I felt pretty fine on the routes, the climbing felt easy after plentiful bouldering, although I need to work on smoother gear placement), I managed to do yet another of my winter bouldering inspirations, and this one was yet again bloody brilliant:

Classic wall problems @ Reiff. (http://vimeo.com/62437955)

The swing around onto the unnervingly shallow "vagina" slot on Romancing The Stone was the highlight of the whole brief-but-fun trip :)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Excellent Easter at Ultimate Ullapool...
Post by: comPiler on April 10, 2013, 01:00:10 am
Excellent Easter at Ultimate Ullapool... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/04/excellent-easter-at-ultimate-ullapool.html)
9 April 2013, 7:46 pm



A long overdue update from Easter! After a semi last minute panic not having anyone to climb with (the usuals being offshore / new-ish parents / away / winter climbing and other such strangeness), the weekend was saved by The Tightest Shorts In Ratho (you know who I mean ;)). A veteran climber who had slightly intimidated me by his seeming seriousness as much as the shorts, but turned out to be good company with the all important SYKE as well as safe climbing.

So we had a long weekend that went something like this:

Moy - amazing weather, did several good routes including some challenging and pumpy ones.

Reiff - amazing weather, did several good routes including some of the harder trad I've done this year.

Ardmair - amazing weather, did several good routes including some decent challenges.

Mungasdale / Post Crag - amazing weather, did two good routes and failed on one only due to missing a finishing hold.

Glemarksie - amazing weather, only did one route but yup it was really good again.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0cUpln02YcE/UWRuxAByJuI/AAAAAAAAA4E/SS0VJU6aqRQ/s400/fiend_diamond.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0cUpln02YcE/UWRuxAByJuI/AAAAAAAAA4E/SS0VJU6aqRQ/s1600/fiend_diamond.jpg)

You might notice a theme with the weather....I think it was both the best conditions ever in the Ullapool area, dryer than Asahi Super Dry, crisp and warm in the sun and icy in the shade, and the most beautiful I have seen the area, with surrounding snowcapped peaks providing the ultimate backdrop to the mellowly sunlight crags and heather. Although warm in the sun, it was bloody freezing at night (literally, -4'c some nights), and I was very glad of Short's SMC membership getting us into the revamped and swanky Naismith Hut. A snip at £9 a night, and with morning views like this:

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--jCu7HK-l0I/UWRuIk4UwYI/AAAAAAAAA38/ahCSceBtgwM/s400/morning.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--jCu7HK-l0I/UWRuIk4UwYI/AAAAAAAAA38/ahCSceBtgwM/s1600/morning.jpg)

Climbing-wise, this was one of my best early season starts ever. I think I've learnt from last years concept that I will live up to challenges if I actually tackle some of them, and combined that with decent bouldering strength and some residual mileage from my Morocco trip, so I felt both a bit confident, and a lot motivated. I did some mighty fine routes and have the scars to prove it. Apparently there aren't any resting jams in the top break of Cleopatra's Asp at Reiff, but no-one told me that so I concocted some anyway and did the route by the skin of my teeth and that's about how little skin I have left on my hands. The only slight niggle was an over-confident school-boy error on the excellent Scoobie Dubh at Post Crag - at the top of the warm-up route, I speculated on having a quick look at the rounded finishing holds but SOMEHOW decided not to do that. An hour later I'm sliding off a desperate slap onto the impossible sloping top....all of 4 bloody inches from a finger jug. NOOB. Learnt my lesson from that one I hope.

Hopefully this good climbing will continue. I'm sure the weather won't, I'm sure climbing partners will be variable, I'm sure things won't go as smoothly as one good weekend, but if I stay uninjured, keep doing the crucial falling practise and fitness training, I might do pretty well on what inspires me. Tendrils crossed.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Keeping a grip...
Post by: comPiler on April 11, 2013, 01:00:14 pm
Keeping a grip... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/04/keeping-grip.html)
11 April 2013, 10:46 am



Today I'm on a flight to Kos and tomorrow I'll be on the first ferry to Kalymnos - this is a last minute sub-£100 flight plan, thanks to Jade and Ross for inviting me along :). Having realised we're allowed to use laptops on board, I'm pondering more on climbing potential this summer, whilst listening to melodic industrial hardcore courtesy of Embrionyc, and before playing as much Torchlight 2 as I can before my eyes explode or we land, whichever is first.

I feel I'm onto a good thing so far this year with climbing. As well as an excellent trad trip to Morocco and probably my best bouldering season ever in terms of quality, diversity and consistency, I feel I've got started with my Scottish trad climbing pretty well. After a few variable but mostly good years exploring the breadth of Scottish cragging, I can focus my attention on a few select explorations, and a few straightforward areas to push myself in.

Of course, the feeling that goes in tandem with this is not wanting to let that good thing go! Climbing well and confidently goes so naturally with the passion and inspiration I have for it, maintaining that is an obvious desire. So I'm considering what could get in the way, and how to deal with that. In rough order of likelihood:

Bad weather: The spring so far has been spectacular where it matters i.e. North West Scotland. Truly inspiring but we can't rely on it lasting. It could be as great as 2012, as dire as 2011 or as reasonably average as 2010. While I have some tricky desires - Lewis especially - most of where I want to push myself is logistically simple if the weather is haphazard: The North West is fine for a weekend, as are the Moray and Aberdeen coasts, whilst Glen Nevis and Creag Dubh are day-trippable. Put enough LPG in the tank and it should be manageable.

Lack of partners: Always an odd issue in the scattered and minimal Scottish trad communities, and a couple of my climbing friends, Brad and Phil, have now dropped the K-bomb so are less available. Hopefully those who remain, with Ross and Robert joining the ranks of Tris, Simon, Brian and Jade, will keep the syke up. Additionally I'll have to keep in touch with people well and rely on the simple venues as harmonious climbing choices.

Lack of confidence: I felt confident Easter weekend, bloody hell I even committed to an unfeasible move and took a fall. All of 3m or so, go me. This is a rare treasure I don't want to let out my sweaty grasp. It could slip out due to circumstance, or being away from regular trad, or getting worn out, or whatever. The one thing is to keep up with the falling practise - this has been my main purpose of indoor leading recently, and seems to have worked subtly on each trip out.

Getting injured: Or MORE injured. I did pick up a slight A2 tweak at Post Crag boning the fuck out of a crux crimp, although after a near week's rest it is feeling better. With careful taping I'm sure it will be manageable especially on trad. My shoulder is still an annoying and persistent tweaky little fucker of a niggle. Generally it is fine on climbing and variably tweaky on anything else, sleeping being the main culprit. I will keep up with the various exercises, stretching and sports massage and keep very aware of any other tweaks creeping in.

Being unfit: Or being MORE unfit. Suffice to say that my bouldering prowess has hardly enabled me to break the crucial 12 stone barrier this year. I'm still overweight and my legs are still fucked, although from recent ambulatory ambling they don't seem to be getting any worse. I must keep up with all the usual tiresome and demoralising bollox exercises to maintain this low level....I'm climbing okay with it so mustn't let it get any worse.

Other personal / life issues: I can't predict them but I'm sure they're there, lurking. If I maintain a calm concentration, persistent patience, I should be okay....

Prepared, persistent, patient, passionate....well I can aspire and aim for that I guess!!

Edit: Couldn't fucking sign into Steam's offline mode, no Torchlight 2 for me :(



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: Keeping a grip...
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 11, 2013, 04:40:13 pm
Keeping a grip... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/04/keeping-grip.html)
11 April 2013, 10:46 am


Lack of partners: Always an odd issue in the scattered and minimal Scottish trad communities, and a couple of my climbing friends, Brad and Phil, have now dropped the K-bomb so are less available. Hopefully those who remain, with Ross and Robert joining the ranks of Tris, Simon, Brian and Jade, will keep the syke up. Additionally I'll have to keep in touch with people well and rely on the simple venues as harmonious climbing choices.



I am always keen Matt! Just hit me up!
Title: K1
Post by: comPiler on April 12, 2013, 07:00:12 pm
K1 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/04/k1.html)
11 April 2013, 4:54 pm



"Yeah let's go for the 8am ferry, sure we have to be up at 7am to get a bit of breakfast but it's two hours time difference so that's like 9 UK time..."
After 8 hours of travelling, a Mythos, and a good quantity of Haloumi and chicken Slouvaki, no-one was thinking deeply enough to remember the time difference was the other way. So the 5am (UK time) start was somewhat shocking, no thanks to the dawn chorus that revved up at midnight and the appalling Nescafe filth to start the day. Thankfully the coffee scenario was vastly improved by the in-situ team at the apartments, but the residual knackeredness has lasted all day and when combined with the sensible but surprising heat and a lack of recent training, has combined in the phenomenon commonly known as "Punterdom". I had to keep reminding myself of these factors as well as the usual "first day warm up" procedure and not get too demoralised, but still did some decent routes, albeit easy ones by the skin of my teeth. Someone later described Sector Odyssey as "old fashioned sport climbing" and I think that's a fair appraisal. Although I did use a hand-jam in a tufa early on, albeit on a route I failed on by slipping off a foothold.

On the plus side, here is a really cool tiger kitty from the harbour:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9DrNRTTc90g/UWg8L9jB-1I/AAAAAAAAA4c/o-XCrLriWrg/s400/IMAG0544.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9DrNRTTc90g/UWg8L9jB-1I/AAAAAAAAA4c/o-XCrLriWrg/s1600/IMAG0544.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: K2
Post by: comPiler on April 13, 2013, 07:00:18 am
K2 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/04/k2.html)
13 April 2013, 1:00 am



Well what do you know, 10 hours sleep does help... Ably aided by a fine Greek dinner of "cheese with fire" (just what it says, what more do you need??), kalamari and doulmadi. So today went a bit better, it was still hot, sweaty, pumpy, and surprisingly grindy on the skin compared to the endless stream of tufa jugs I was expecting. I was also vaguely expecting the sales-pitch generous grades, well that is complete horse cock, the old Rockfax grades are general sandbags and even the new guide grades are solid, I've done one soft-touch in 12 bloody routes, this is hardly Ardmair is it!! Today's half a dozen were a characterful and fun selection, I'm still keeping it mostly steady but getting inspired by enough stuff for the rest of the week. Rest hard enough and I might climb some good stuff ;)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: K345.
Post by: comPiler on April 16, 2013, 01:00:41 am
K345. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/04/k345.html)
15 April 2013, 6:59 pm



3.a. Scooters are fucking terrifying as a passenger. All I could think about was ending up as long streaks of Fiend paste smeared along the road.

3.b. Ghost Kitchen is a great name for a very fun crag.

3.c. Any route described as a "stalactite-mushroom parade" has got to be awesome, and indeed was.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pOgvDgOlNiw/UWxNhbhdGMI/AAAAAAAAA4s/p1aV1xOVL2A/s400/kgoat.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pOgvDgOlNiw/UWxNhbhdGMI/AAAAAAAAA4s/p1aV1xOVL2A/s1600/kgoat.jpg)

4.a. Scooters are a lot less fucking terrifying as the driver. So much so that I went for a cruise for fun in the afternoon and got to grips with it pretty well, despite never having been on a motorised two-wheel anything except the previous evening's coaching. However there "might" have been a chicken incident on the way back.

4.b. I can get my leg into the Kastor hole at Arhi cos I'm short. Alas all the tall people in the group were both elsewhere and much more beastly so I didn't get to gloat too much.

4.c. When jumping off a sizeable rock into the sea, there are a variety of recommended landing postures, of which "sitting back in an armchair" is definitely not one. Fuck me my slapped butt hurts.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PVQ8XXnow9A/UWxNuVUHR6I/AAAAAAAAA40/yyX4meAK8IA/s400/kbug.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PVQ8XXnow9A/UWxNuVUHR6I/AAAAAAAAA40/yyX4meAK8IA/s1600/kbug.jpg)

5.a. I had enough tactics, pacing, and determination to do my main Kalymnos inspiration of the boring standard honeypot trade route DNA. It's very steep!

5.b. Also did Trella (draining!), Taz and Les Amazones and generally had a fine day and feel I've really got into Kalymnos-style climbing.

5.c. My slapped arse still hurts and has spectacular warfarin-exacerbated bruises.  



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: K6.
Post by: comPiler on April 16, 2013, 07:00:19 pm
K6. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/04/k6.html)
16 April 2013, 3:58 pm



Still going....somehow....starting to get a wee bit tired. The penultimate day, yet more tufas, yet more funky rests, yet more pockets, yet more pump. I did a couple of very fine routes today and also tried something a wee bit harder, above my usual confidence level. Boulder problem crux and then I somehow contrived to slip off a good big pocket after the crux. Suffice to say I win the Finest Crag Tantrum Of The Trip award, and thanks to Jade for retrieving my shoe from it's distant landing place. When I calmed down I was still angry but also reassured that I'd come pretty close, and curious to very slightly reassess what my current limits *might* be - it showed potential at least. On the subject of which, all of my aches and tweaks are feeling a lot better, no doubt because I'm climbing loads ;).



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: K7.
Post by: comPiler on April 18, 2013, 07:00:07 pm
K7. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/04/k7.html)
18 April 2013, 2:25 pm



Need to go on a cheese detox....so much cheese....so good though. Last day today but a 9:30 flight from Kos allowed for a 6:30 ferry and thus almost as full a day's climbing as previous days (which were invariably curtailed by sunshine, soreness, or satisfaction). Another strong coffee, another colossal multi-kilo chocolate croissant from Fani's mini-mart, and another 5 good routes including Callipso, an intense tufa-bulge-razor-slab-crimpy-micro-broccoli horror that ensure my fingertips and sanity were ready to end the holiday on a high and tired note.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9dLBCT2VmBE/UXACP6FXIOI/AAAAAAAAA5U/SGGe_yeHssU/s400/kcamo.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9dLBCT2VmBE/UXACP6FXIOI/AAAAAAAAA5U/SGGe_yeHssU/s1600/kcamo.jpg)

Overall it was a bloody great trip. Great varied climbing in a beautiful and convenient location, good company and fairly simple logistics, fine weather and nice food. Climbing on the stalactite-mushroom parades was why I wanted to visit Kalymnos and it was well worth it for that. Any trip where the debriefing includes "favourite mushroom" and "favourite kneebar" has got to be good. My climbing went very well, despite a harsh first day. I certainly feel climbing fit as much as climbing fat ;).

Simple Scottish trad next, I hope...  



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Challenge #2 - Smith's Arete.
Post by: comPiler on April 28, 2013, 01:00:23 pm
Challenge #2 - Smith's Arete. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/04/challenge-2-smiths-arete.html)
28 April 2013, 11:23 am



I'm dispensing with the alliteration for now, which is probably a relief. I've got a few more challenging inspirations for Scottish climbing this spring/summer and I guess I've already started with them. Cleopatra's Asp at Reiff would count as #1. 4 weeks later my minced hands have just about recovered, just a few small scabs left.

So Smith's Arete at Ballater is #2. The most distinguished line of the crag on the cleanest, if smallest, buttress. I'd already muffed the grim and sketchy Peel's Wall so this was the last thing I really wanted to do at Ballater - now I have and I don't have to go back again ;). I've learnt to be wary of the conditions on the shiny, slopey granite, so made good use of yesterday's fresh and cool weather on a 5 hour round trip to Ballater. Warmed up on Blutered and Larup Head, both good. Ate an obligatory egg sandwich, rested, faffed around a lot and did Smith's.

It was a bit different to I expected - rather than being quite sketchy and serious above the skyhook, it was surprisingly brutal and reachy getting to the hook, then surprisingly reasonable past that.  Due to the style of the route I bouldered out the start, partly to re-warm-up, partly to get that part on auto-pilot so I could focus on the scary bit past the hook, partly to get the hook in place and tensioned off well, and partly because it was pretty damn hard! At the time I found this style a bit dissatisfying (and it did feel an adjectival grade easier), as well as uncomfortable landing like a sack of spuds on my "bouldering hoodie", but in retrospect I think it is okay for this sort of route - especially getting the crucial hook tensioned down. Without a gri-gri to hand, hanging around while the belayer tries to tension a clove-hitch on his own while belaying at the same time would be unpleasant. Anyway with the faff out of the way it was very enjoyable - cool, switchy arete moves past the hook, bomber gear at the break, and the delicate finish as a bonus.

Now the weather is showery bollox again, and although I'd be up for the mighty R for some falling practice, in the absence of any offers I'll probably just go the gym and rest my tweaky A2s. I still feel fairly confident about more quick hit challenges though.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Challenge #3 - The Prow.
Post by: comPiler on May 02, 2013, 07:00:08 pm
Challenge #3 - The Prow. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/05/challenge-3-prow.html)
2 May 2013, 12:48 pm



I managed to sneak up to Cummingston in perfect spring conditions and tackle another cool challenge - the steep, striking, and supposedly serious Prow. I'd had a good look at this before and worked out some cunning gear placements to protect the bulk of it - I knew it would take a lot of faffing, but that should warm me into the steepness nicely and get me ready for the daunting lip shenanigans. And it worked perfectly:

Cummingston Prow the safe way. (http://vimeo.com/65292800)

As with Smith's Arete, the amount of faff and downclimbing did spoil the purity for me, but also does fit the nature of the route - once all the faff is done, it makes it a slightly-bold-feeling but essentially very fun romp in space, rather than a dangerous solo. A grade easier to lead but maybe a star extra? After this I went to do Aesthetic Ape in a more straightforward way - worked out the start, placed the gear, and got on with it past the very funky and slopey crux. Another rewarding experience.

The slight downside to the visit was muffing what should have been Challenge #4 at Huntly's Cave - Lime Street. I'd warmed up fine on Huntly's Wall, then later got on Lime Street. Right at the start my hands were cold and instead of doing the sensible thing and reversing to either let them warm up or leave it for a warmer day, I pressed on into the steepness and pumpy layback and lack of ability to grip and falling off bollox terrain. Although I'm climbing pretty well this early in the season, it doesn't mean the rock has magically warmed up enough to make perma-shaded pump-fests suitable at this time of year - a good lesson about conditions.

I also had a realisation that I am doing pretty well on climbs where I can blast through a tricky section to an obvious respite / rest / protection, but I reckon I might struggle with long sustained periods of tiring climbing, and I reckon that the circuit boards at TCA might just be the thing for that. As well as more falling practice at the mighty R, of course. Looks like the weather will provide the opportunity for both...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Best Winter Season Ever?
Post by: comPiler on May 04, 2013, 07:00:08 pm
Best Winter Season Ever? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/05/best-winter-season-ever.html)
4 May 2013, 12:55 pm



It's the start of May and definitely into prime spring/summer tradding season: It's cunting it down in Glasgow and the forecast for the whole of the North West is dire. Hopefully it's early days though. In the meantime I feel an urge to retrospect on the Scottish Winter Season aka Fuck All That Pointless And Ludicrous Snow Plodding Shit And Go Bouldering Instead Season, which happened to be bloody good this year - lots of the boulders were in prime "nick", as was my inspiration and choice of blocs.

Thus I think this has been my best bouldering season ever - not necessarily for difficulty, nor overall difficulty, nor quantity, but for sheer diversity and quality of problems, better even than any season I had living in Sheffield. To put it in perspective, here's my ticklists of the most prominent and inspiring Scottish problems over the last 4 seasons:

2009:

Monkey Spanking V8

Spanking The Monkey V6

Slap And Tickle V5

The Prow V4

2010:

Clash Arete V7

Retroclaim V6

Jawa V4

Tourist Trap V4

The Nose V4

Slipstones Thing V5

The Persuader V4

Outstanding V4

Razor's Edge V6

2011:

Powerhouse V6

The Economist V5

Watch Your Back V4

The Nose V4

Black Orc V6

Thousand Year Egg V4

Flying Fiend V4

The Wall V5

2012:

Romancing The Stone V6

Squelch V5

Haven V5

A Long Winning Streak V5

The Dude V6

The Slippery Slope V5

Brin Done Before V5

Le Toit Du Col Du Mouton V6

Sheep Pen Groove V4

Gale Force V6

Autumn Arete V6

Pyramid Lip V5

The Bottler V4

LDV V3

Excitement In The Buoys V6

Right Arete SS V4

Forever Unfulfilled V4

Stretch Armstrong V6

Big Growly Thing V5

Summer outliers:

Butterboy V4

Peel Sessions V4

Pump Up The Jam V5

White Matter V6

Bowfinger V6

Diesel Canary V5

Helipad V4

Good Ass V4

As can be seen, although I haven't quite done more awesome problems in this one season than all 3 previous seasons put together, it's pretty close! As well as the diversity and sheer classic quality of many of these problems, there is a wide personal variety for me, from problems that inspired me for years (Brin Done Before, Haven), to problems that only recently inspired me but took some serious effort (Gale Force, Autumn Arete), to problems I never thought I'd get round to (Romancing The Stone, Stretch Armstrong) and problems I hadn't even heard of until recently (the Farr Boulder trio).

The end result: For all the driving and heather-slogging and crappy information and neglect and bog and rain and midges and moss, Scottish bouldering has some bloody great national-class maybe even world-class problems, and I am happy to have explored many of them :).



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Challenge #4: Downies Syndrome.
Post by: comPiler on May 12, 2013, 03:52:30 pm
Challenge #4: Downies Syndrome. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/05/challenge-4-downies-syndrome.html)
7 May 2013, 12:08 pm



As can be seen most of the inspiring climbing - indeed any climbing - I am currently doing is in the Centre and East of Scotland, because in this haphazard showery climate (currently glorious in the West then forecast to piss down), the East has the most reliable weather, although not the most reliable climbing conditions...

This weekend was a planned trip to the Aberdeen sea-cliffs, described during the week as "probably the best condition I've had any north or east facing coast crag", "pretty good nick", and "dry and in excellent condition". It seems we were there on the exact cusp of conditions changing from excellent to appalling, as the wind swung around from WSW to SSW with shocking changes in warmth and moisture. This cusp didn't even happen overnight or during the day, it happened during one ascent... That ascent was Downies Syndrome, and when I started it was starting to feel greasy (although thankfully positive enough not to affect the challenge where it mattered), by the time we were back down it was glistening wet.

So I'd sneaked in in the nick of time and it was well worth the effort as it's a brilliant route with committing cruxes, an all out slap for me, just enough protection, and a whole lot of pump - even the HVS 4c finishing wall felt hard afterwards. It's not the hardest thing I've done this year but it's hard enough, and it's worth noting that the bizarre attempts by locals (possibly the same locals who have tried to christen the amenable Ardmair as "Hardmair"????) to mis-grade this route and it's neighbour Auto Da Fe, are complete horseshit: It is not E3 5c and ADF is not E3 5b. They are great routes with currently fair grades, particularly in the context of Bobalouie (which definitely does need re-grading) and The Paranormal (which is very amenable and another satisfying route to sneak in). On a normal/national scale, some Berrymuir routes are:

Downies Syndrome E4 6a *** - at least a full grade harder than B and TP - harder cruxes, two of them, steepier, pumpier and spaced gear. Modern small gear makes no difference as it's medium cams that are crucial.

Execretor E4 5c ** - solid at this grade, shortlived and reasonable protection but slopey and pokey.

Auto Da Fe E4 5c *** - soft but still a full adjectival grade harder than B and TP. Easy 5c but  very steep, committing, and with possible groundfall if one muffed anything near the break. An off-route side-runner in the block of The Flatulent Alien is just that.

X-Crack E3 5c ** - failed on the ledge in hot conditions but only a couple of moves and clearly a grade easier than DS, Ex, and ADF.

Bobalouie E3 5c ** - my warm-up for ADF, wild but steady, shortlived, and very obvious gear.

The Paranormal E3 5c *** - my warm-up for DS, a couple of bouldery moves off the ground, then easy and safe E2 5b with good rests (both B and TP hard sections are like doing an easier version of half of Downies Syndrome).

Obviously this is nothing to do with ego nor grade-chasing - I have as little to do with that bollox as possible, and with 7 leads of E4 and above this year I have nothing to prove to myself. What it does have to do with is: Firstly SOMEONE IS WRONG IN THE INTERNET so clearly that needs sorting out ;). Secondly as an outsider who has visited the Aberdeen coast A LOT, I think it has plenty of interesting and exciting good climbing, despite it's fickle nature and pokiness, and I think that quality needs to be represented fairly. It's not a good promotion of the coastline to have some routes mis-graded for local benefit rather than accurately graded for everyone's benefit.

At any rate there is little arguing with the quality, when in good condition, and gull-eyed readers might notice that both DS and ADF should be upstarred. Maybe subjective, but they are worth the effort. I remain unconvinced about the X wall though - too slopey.

The next day was fully smegged out, so after recceing Long Slough and Craig Stirling and getting well inspired for drier times, we went to Ballater AGAIN, it was warm and I did very little except one minor fun route as I had a sore throat and now I have punter-flu ARSE BOLLOX ETC.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: The Direness.
Post by: comPiler on May 12, 2013, 03:52:34 pm
The Direness. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/05/the-direness.html)
11 May 2013, 12:12 pm



Dire and damp, both outside and inside. Outside the weather is celebrating the onset of Scotland's reliable prime trad month of May by twatting it down, with the forecast in the West being dire for the foreseeable future and the East being not a whole lot better. Inside the damp is coagulating in my lungs, absorbing dust, bonding with defensive mucus, sapping my energy and getting coughed out at 4am as the punter-flu lingers and malingers in a most unwelcome way.

I feel a bit like this:

This is all pretty fucking boring, I want to get out and climb awesome routes or if not I want to train hard and keep fit and strong and focused. As well as the best winter's bouldering ever, this spring has been the best start to a trad season for the challenges tackled: A pre-emptive strike to Morocco, a great Easter weekend, and sporadic days since in which I've felt bouldering strength and regular falling practice have combined into something approaching "confidence" (a rare feeling) and have outweighed the default "punterdom"(usually much less rare). Obviously I want to capitalise THE FUCK out of this and obviously shit weather and a shit cold don't help.

So what I am going to do is be patient (for a couple more days until I stop fucking coughing), order that Devourment CD to get me syked, then get back into the training. Easy mileage at first because I will be SHIT, then build up to circuits and comp wall problems, mix in gym sessions, and all the time get to lead walls for more falling practise - all the fucking time. If the weather keeps being a cock then I might even head South or abroad for climbing. Anyone with me??



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on May 12, 2013, 06:29:49 pm
DEVOURMENT - "Parasitic Eruption" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iiOlkgBLfT4#ws) should be embedded in that post, just so you know :)
Title: County Syke.
Post by: comPiler on May 13, 2013, 07:00:14 pm
County Syke. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/05/county-syke.html)
13 May 2013, 12:38 pm



Along with "May is often the greatest trad month in Scotland", another usually reliable maxim is "If it's wet in the North West, it's dry in Northumberland". Especially when it's definitely westerly bollox weather and the forecast is for dry and breezy from Alnwick to Coldstream....and we're just past Jedburgh and it's wanking it down. So in the end I drove over 200 miles this weekend to second one route I'd soloed before, in the icy wind and sporadic showers at Back Bowden. Wow. Still we gave it a go and I got to recce a couple of routes and I was still fucked with this chest infection (now on anti-biotics, so back to training as soon as they kick in and back to climbing as soon as the weather fucks the fuck off) so couldn't do much anyway and during the drive I managed to work out how to crush the last mission of Heart Of The Swarm (build an entire army of Swarm Hosts, slowly burrow forwards, and use Kerrigan to take out any Ravens and other air units....I think I lost about 5/200 supply of units in the final battle). I also got to ponder more on the County, and came to the conclusion that although I have climbed at loads of crags and done loads of great routes, I haven't done much that's actually challenging, and if the dire weather continues, I might have the opportunity to do some more down there. So far I've done:

Outward Bound @ Back Bowden - easy and fun.

Sir Francis @ The Drake Stone - easy moves but damn bold!

Broken Wing @ Great Wanney - quite tricky and committing

Thin Ice @ Great Wanney - safe and steady, cool climbing.

Shine On @ Howlerhirst - steady but committing, nice.

Stealth @ Linshields 1 - bold and good.

Mirage @ Lineshields 1 - bold and good.

Stella @ South Yardhope - kinda serious but manageable and a cool route.

Also I've backed off / failed on:

The Trial @ Bowden - downclimbed from the upper crux 5 times, reachy and dangerous.

Rice Krispies @ Callerhues - escaped at finish, pretty bold.

The Sabbath @ Kyloe Out - fell off crux onto slider (backed up with 3 bomber cams)

Over The Edge @ Simonside - backed off start, hard and dangerous sandbag.

Generally there is a correlation between success on "bold routes above gear" and failure on "dangerous routes before/without gear". Throw in a bit of confidence and a lot of inspiration for cool lines, and my wishlist starts to look like this:

Back Bowden:

Merlin - steep as fuck but actually has gear in. Might need a partner abseil clean / thread replace. Lots of bouldering to warm-up.

Hard Reign - should be fine.

On The Verge - bold and smeary grit style. Intimidating but with the right sort of bouldering warm-up, could be okay.

Bowden:

The Gauleiter - thin but good gear in break.

Goose Step - not sure about gear situation on this.

Poseidon Adventure - *gulp*, very bold without pads, will need a lot of bouldering training.

The Trial - 6th time lucky??

Callerhues:

Twin Hats - should be fine with committment

Ned Kelly -should be fine with committment

Toshiba Receiver - should be fine with some finger training and a lot of faffing with gear.

Goat Crag:

Overdrive - should be fine.

Underpass - should be fine.

Hard Shoulder - bold but I'm usually okay on aretes.

Great Wanney:

Endless Flight - super-inspiring, gotta stick with the falling practise.

East Buttress Direct - as long as it's not too serious to start.

Pratchett's Plunge - should be fine with some cunning.

Kyloe Out:

First Born - probably bloody hard but safe and can try to use bouldering strength.

Rothley:

Master Blaster - inspiring, intimidating, might need a partner abseil clean, but it's gotta be worth a look.

Masterstroke - if I'm too scared for MB but feeling strong enough. I have sliders!

Also got to visit Harehope Canyon, do a few harder things at Jack Rock, more mileage at Callerhues too, but the whole Simonside plateau can fuck off until it's been climbed on enough to be in good condition. Anyway that's enough to be getting on with...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: County Syke.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 13, 2013, 07:19:54 pm
County Syke. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/05/county-syke.html)
13 May 2013, 12:38 pm
Back Bowden:

Merlin - steep as fuck but actually has gear in. Might need a partner abseil clean / thread replace. Lots of bouldering to warm-up.

Hard Reign - should be fine.

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Merlin is fine, easy traverse in, quick shake. If you get sequence right and are warmed up, you will be fine. Defo needs a clean first.

Hard reign isn't easy for E3! Start is hard and then the meat of the route is tricky. Maybe i missed something. Jordan used a knee bar, but think i did without, possibly making it harder!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on May 13, 2013, 09:22:29 pm
Cheers!

Hard Reign has a rest and loads of gear at the Arches and RPs above and I reckon I can faff around enough to work it out. Mmmmm faff  :smirk:
Title: Unsuccessful-ish Ullapool.
Post by: comPiler on May 28, 2013, 07:00:09 pm
Unsuccessful-ish Ullapool. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/05/unsuccessful-ish-ullapool.html)
28 May 2013, 2:17 pm

 

An odd but good long weekend away, mostly avoiding my main inspirations but still having a good time despite a few setbacks.

Glen Clova:

Didn't do anything, and...

The Wildebeest - tried the start a few times, stupidly dangerous despite no mention of this in the guide. Blind dynamic 6a crimping with a couple of friable looking holds, no gear, and a terrible landing. Incomprehensible.

Clairvoyant Reality - tried this instead, another very dangerous horrorshow. Precarious off-balance shuffling, I committed to a sketchy move to get a tiny fingerflake with possible gear behind, but couldn't take my hand off to place it. 6m up with no gear and little chance of going up or down, absolutely hideous, one of the worst climbing moments I can recall, with a very real prospect of breaking my lower limbs. I somehow managed to slither back down by the skin of my teeth. Ridiculous.

Empire Of The Sun - Had a look and was pretty inspired but still felt sick after the previous route, no chance of going near it.

Ardmair:

Did a few good leads that got my head back into climbing after getting totally spooked at Clova - Operation Brumby had a good committing crux, and Aussie Rules was a really nice and fairly committing route. But...

Neart Nan Gaidheal - too still and muggy at the end of the day. Very inspired but needs a fresher day.

Burning Desire - seeping!

Reiff:

Did a couple of pleasant routes and also managed the walk-in both ways with only one small rest each time. Whether it's familiarity or a lighter rucsac, I don't know, but it's good exercise and it's reassuring that I can cope with it. But...

The Gift - far too greasy. Very inspired, I reckon it might be manageable.

The Screamer - far too greasy. Intimidating but I could probably warm up into it.

The Road To Nowhere - too still at the end of the day. Pretty inspired despite the pokiness, but needs a fresher day.

Split Personality - the so-called "well protected" crack on Golden Walls, what utter horseshit. Having comfortably done the other 3 Golden Wall routes, this should have been fine but quite clearly wasn't. Steeper, worse breaks, harder crux, so-so shallow cams below the crux and hard to place adequate gear off bad holds after the crux. Mis-graded and mis-described in Scottish Rock.

Goat Crag:

Did Hydrotherapy after the steady warm-up route. Skin of my teeth battle of blind cruxes, sloping holds, and sweaty hands, and definitely harder than the following F7as: The Ticks Ate All The Midges, Sand In My Pants, Expecting To Fly, Clutching At Straws, Going Through On Aggregate, etc etc, still it was a good value fight, and after 3-4 days my tweaky finger was still feeling okay. But...

Freakshow - another horseshit description in Scottish Rock. No hard climbing but utterly ridiculously steep and pumpy, the so-called "crux" diagonal break was a piece of piss (E3 5c to the down-pointing spike), the so-called easier flake was extra pumpy, and the so-called good holds at the final crack were smooth flat layaways just as I was too exhausted to use them. Obviously I simply wasn't good enough to do the climb, but being accurately mentally prepared for the challenge might have helped enough.

...

At the end of this weekend, I haven't done anything I planned to do, have hardly tried anything I wanted to do, have failed on things I did try. But... I've got back into the trad, I've got some useful and reassuring mid-range mileage, I've come pretty close to a very challenging route, I've started to feel familiar with the Reiff walk-in, I've had a useful reminder about conditions, I've got some good exercise and I've maintained the syke. I'll try to put into action ASAP.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Gotta stop punting...
Post by: comPiler on May 31, 2013, 01:00:13 am
Gotta stop punting... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/05/gotta-stop-punting.html)
30 May 2013, 6:45 pm



» Gotta make plans more pro-actively.

(I still do too much faffing around worrying about weather and the right people and the best plans, I've got to stop doing this and just get organised and go climbing.)

» Gotta get going earlier in the morning.

(Too much time wasted not getting on with it.)

» Gotta stop pestering partners who have their fixed groups.

(Too much time hanging on waiting for people I seem to get on with well but rarely include me in their outdoor climbing.)

» Gotta keep training my fingers.

(Still worried about not being able to last long on small crimpy holds, need to keep focusing on them.)

» Gotta keep doing circuits at TCA.

(Have been recommended it as a way to train crucial endurance, I've finally managed to do the stopper move green circuit, so I feel I can progress with that.)

» Gotta keep doing falling practise, and do it harder.

(Had a good session last time, need to ramp it up with bigger falls AND trying harder routes until I unavoidably come off)

» Gotta pace my wall training so I don't trash my skin.

(One of the main problems I'm having with training....I can get stronger to compensate for being a fucking bloater, but I can't get my skin better, so it grinds off and limits further training. Shorter sessions and stopping before it's trashed.)

» Gotta do my shoulder exercises daily.

(Still tweaky, only due to sleeping not climbing, but it's not getting any stronger by doing nothing)

» Gotta get some more Super Chalk.

(Got Moon Dust that's like rubble and DMM chalk that's like silky talc, fuck that shit my skin is sweaty enough without bad chalk)

» Gotta order some more Anasazis.

(The 7.5s I mail-ordered were more like 8s, comfy enough but I have nothing precise with rubber left on them, why is climbing kit so damn hard to get in Scotland.)

» Gotta keep running.

(I hate it, it sucks, last time was 5 mins warm-up, 10 mins of constant demoralising pain, but it keeps me moving.)

» Gotta keep stretching.

(Too old and fragile not to.)

» Gotta sleep better.

(Getting fed up with going to bed too late and crashing out in the day. Napping != training/climbing)

» Gotta be careful with caffeine.

(Almost certainly the cause of the above, I love coffee but only in moderation, gotta stop abusing it)

» Gotta eat healthier and drink more water.

(Related to above. Had lots of fun junk food in Ullapool but still not detoxed enough from it.)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Greatest Gabber free compilation CD
Post by: comPiler on June 03, 2013, 01:00:18 am
Greatest Gabber free compilation CD (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/06/greatest-gabber-free-compilation-cd.html)
2 June 2013, 6:11 pm



A specific compilation of 15 tracks from the "golden era" of gabber, approx 1995-2000. I've tried to go for a good spectrum progressing from almost hard house at the start to speedcore at the end, but with an slight emphasis on more uplifting, well crafted tracks, rather than just a load of swearing and cheesy samples over a kick drum (although there is a bit of that of course ;)). If you want a CD, simply email/PM me your address and I will send one - fiendophobia@googlemail.com

This is something I've been wanting to do for a decade. I genuinely believe that some gabber has as much musical merit as any other dance/electronic music, and I wanted to try to show that with this compilation. This is a personal choice, mostly from CDs I owned, and is only partially representative of what would be played in a hardcore club at the time. For a wider selection, getting hold of the Helter Skelter Technodrome Annual would be essential: http://www.discogs.com/DJ-Producer-The-Clarkee-Helter-Skelter-The-Annual-1995-1996-The-Technodrome/release/67426

1. Technohead - The Passion

A nice, haunting, chilled out and well produced track from Technohead who wrote a hardcore column for DJ, mixed compilations for React records and had a minor hit with "Who Wants To Be A Hippy" before Lee Newman sadly passed away.

2. Strychnine - Utopia Project

An unusually uplifting track on Industrial Strength Records, with typically ravey gabber mutating into a lovely finish. I wanted this as an intro track but it's really an outro...

3. Nordcore GMBH - Holle

Taking things a bit darker with a typically atmospheric track from this German collective - epic cyberpunk soundtrack gabber!

4. R.Wagner - Listen Carefully

A mega-anthem that was absolutely brilliant in a rave and just as good to listen to. Sheer hardcore euphoria.

5. Chosen Few - Name Of The DJ

Another classic anthem, straight up happy ravey gabber.

6. The Original Gabber - Headbanger

The starting track of the legendary Terrrordrome compilation series. Unsubtle but fun and varied headbanging track

7. The Original Gabber - ADDA

Another banging but varied track, with cool melodies and some great acid touches, sadly underused in gabber.

8. Fazer 5 - Innocent Trip

A relentlessly ravey track that captures the atmosphere of being in a gabber rave - bounce bounce bounce.

9. Nordcore GMBH - Robocop

The best gabber track ever made?? I could have filled the CD with 15 copies of this, it's that good. Dark, atmospheric, europhic, and exceptionally well-crafted - the way this track builds up is as good as ANY dance music gets.

10. Liza n Eliaz - White Line

Hard and harsh but an unusually funky bassline, if you don't pogo around to this then check your pulse. The second track in this compilation from a sadly deceased top female producer.

11. The Shaftmen - Shaftman

Silly, vulgar, noisy and great fun. If the sampled intro doesn't earworm you senseless, you get your money back.

12 - Gabba Front Berlin - Halo

Actually a more recent track but one that shows the best in uplifting gabber - pretty much 220+bpm trance, packed full of melodies and madness.

13 - Disciples Of Annihilation - New York City Speedcore

Another mega-anthem, this time on a much harder tip - a simple stomper with a classic riff sample.

14 - DJ VibeRaider - Make The Floor Burn

"Doesn't that mean it goes terrifically fast??" A moshpit monster.

15. The Bezerker - The Final Sacrifice

The ultimate....nothing more to be said!!



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: A week of extreme punting.
Post by: comPiler on June 07, 2013, 07:00:10 pm
A week of extreme punting. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/06/a-week-of-extreme-punting.html)
7 June 2013, 1:50 pm



Battering Ram, Shepherd's Crag - did the first pitch with some effort, climbed to the crux of the second pitch, blocked a crucial fingerlock with a cam, tried to reverse, slipped onto the cam and FAILED.

Overdrive, Goat's Crag - cranked through the start, placed one cam, underclung right a move, felt out of balance and very sweaty, sat on cam and FAILED.

Spandau Ballet, Birnham Quarry - did the hard 5c start, did various 5b moves up the crack, did a hard 5c move onto one lone foothold below the crux, committed to the hard 6a layback crux, only managed to find slopers above, foot slipped off and FAILED.

How can one experienced and dedicated trad climber who is pretty familiar with such a moderate level of mid-grade challenge be so utterly punterly?? HOW IS IT POSSIBLE??

Well...

En route to Shepherds, I drove from Glasgow, battled traffic and the hordes in Keswick to try to buy rock shoes, slowly drove into Borrowdale, hit a rock fallen from a dry stone wall, tore a 3" hole in my tyre, took a chunk out of the rim, had a 3 hour delay and £170 bill getting towed back to Keswick to get two new tyres fitted, by which time it was well warm enough to climb topless and then I just made a stupid mistake blocking the obvious hold even when I knew I would. Total bellend approach but maybe some other factors putting me off.

At Goat's Crag I'd warmed up punting around at Bowden, re-warmed up on steeper bouldering at Goat's itself, and got on the route which is pretty brutal off the deck. Again conditions were weirdly cool AND muggy at the same time and I just lost all confidence pulling hard in steep ground. I didn't chalk enough, I didn't battle enough, I simply didn't focus enough. Not acceptable.

Birnham was an end of the afternoon one route quick hit type job. The line is obvious and confidence was high, even the hard moves to start and higher up didn't put me off, and I just got on with it and went for it on the crux only to discover it was a total sandbag. Simple foot slip, I should have been more careful, but also I was going for obvious "holds" that would fit with the 5c move the grade implied, if I'd known it was a full grade harder I would have tried the move differently.

So some mitigating circumstances and some downright punterism.

I'm trying to tackle the latter by getting some mileage in, training at the wall and gym, keeping aware of conditions, buying new shoes in a proper size and hopefully just trying HARDER in general, god knows I need to!!



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: rich d on June 07, 2013, 08:25:32 pm
Was at TCA Glasgow on Wednesday in the extreme heat! Saw a bloke wearing support socks/tight things wearing a fluorescent vest. Was going to come over and see if it was you and say hi, but after a brief sit down you'd disappeared (guessing there must be a maccy d's near by?) leaving only a psychedelic neon acid trail in the air.
Rich
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on June 07, 2013, 10:02:19 pm
"Might" have been me... Wed was TCA b2b gym, felt good.
Title: Confirmation.
Post by: comPiler on June 11, 2013, 07:00:09 pm
Confirmation. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/06/confirmation.html)
11 June 2013, 2:41 pm



I had a weekend at Creag Dubh, a crag I'm usually both surprisingly comfortable with and unsurprisingly inspired by. The latter hadn't changed at all for this trip, but I found little comfort in my climbing.

Acapulco - I had seconded Wet Dreams to warm up, and felt pretty confident and happy about getting on this route. At the roof I stalled due to the lack of good holds / protection, and had a few times climbing back down and back up from the rest. The last time I felt slippy on a finger jam, checked my pink damp fingers, somehow decided not to chalk (?!), and slipped out of the jam onto the gear, and thus failed before even getting involved with either the crux or the quality meat of the route.

Bratach Uaine - Despite the above infuriating cessation of climbing a quality route, I also approached BU with a lot of positivity, not least because the reasonable protection and general situation is evident from Wet Dreams. I ended up going up and down to the crux roof - 2 times to sort out protection, and 4 times to try the crux. Somehow I neither had the strength to pull the crux move nor the confidence to trust my weakness anyway. Eventually I cleanly downclimbed and backed off.

The second day I stuck to easier routes to get some mileage (which I did) and regain some confidence (...) and they felt consistently hard, although manageable.

Yesterday I tried to get any local climber to go out somewhere in/near the Central Belt on a lovely sunny, breezy and bone dry evening before rain during the rest of this week. No-one seemed to want to get out, so I went to Ratho bouldering to train strength. I started off fine, feeling fairly energetic, but soon felt weak and my skin got so sore I couldn't pull properly on it.

Today I wanted to train again but my new shoes created such a painful bunion at Ratho (I'd successfully taped my toes over the weekend) that I can't even look at rock shoes. The forecast is now bad for the foreseeable future so I will have plenty of time to train though.

------

This few days, in conjunction with the last few weeks, has confirmed that I am consistently climbing at a lower standard than usual and a much lower standard than a couple of months ago. From feeling as good as I've ever felt on bouldering, then sport, then trad over the spring, I have kept training, kept getting out, and watched without comprehension as my climbing has consistently deteriorated. I'm not climbing "bad" (although it sometimes feel that way, as I don't enjoy having the climbing I love marred by doing it badly), but the current low period is definitely lower than before and lower than I feel comfortable with, and I need to work out ways to deal with this period and progress out of it.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Deal With The Matter.
Post by: comPiler on June 12, 2013, 01:00:13 pm
Deal With The Matter. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/06/deal-with-matter.html)
12 June 2013, 11:48 am



God I am boring at the moment. No celebratory tales, no semi-amusing anecdotes, no entirely-serious ethical ranting, no photos, no videos, not even any animals. Sorry. It's fairly representative though. I suppose I should have got a photo of the chunky hardback-sized quartz jug I pulled off The Hill, but I forgot and I didn't even take an exciting whipper.

So in the absence of amusing, I have been musing. And the conclusion is that I need to deal with the matter - the matter that matters being regaining the pleasure, and application of inspiration, in my climbing, preferably by doing it well and regaining my confidence and climbing energy.

Mileage:

An obvious choice to regain confidence but there is a slight technical that I am not inspired for mileage (which can tread perilously close to the anathema that is "climbing for the sake of it"), compared to my passion for specific challenges. So I need to acknowledge what is available and try to get syked for it. The more I can do, the more diverse rock types I can keep my hand in once, the better...

Scotland:

Reiff

Ardmair

Gruinard

Stone Valley

Diabeg Peninsula

Glen Nevis

Ardnamurchan

Glen Coe Roadside

Aberdeen Area (Black Dyke, Newtonmore, Little O, etc)

Glen Clova Doonies

Arbroath

Weem

Glen Lednock

Glen Ogle

Dunira

Dunkeld

Souter / Fast Castle

Northumberland / Northern Lakes:

Bowdens (just)

Callerhues

Corby's

Jack Rock

Swirl Crag

Falcon Crags

Shepherd's Crag

Training:

Whilst pondering of the powerlessness I felt on Saturday, I had the minor epiphany that although I have kept up with the training to maintain the season's previously great start, I haven't been doing it nearly hard nor comprehensively enough. For example, I felt pretty good and strong bouldering over winter, and my first few trips out on a rope, I was finding the moves pretty steady - which makes sense. It also makes sense that having only trained circuits and the occasional route session since then, I have lost a lot of strength and power. I suspect it's similar with falling practice - I've made the mistake of once it's started working where it matters (i.e. outdoor trad), I've stopped training it. But even more than strength, I am always so far behind with that aspect of climbing I need to keep training it even when it seems to be working. So:

Strength / power:

Keep at it. It might not be Scottish Winter Bouldering Season any more, but I still need some for the routes I'm inspired by. Mix up my indoor stamina sessions with indoor strength sessions. Take a brush, liquid chalk, anti-hydral, to stop my skin getting too sore and allow me to keep pulling hard, and have short regular sessions if skin gets too sore. Accept failure and current weakness as a need / path for improvement. Only go for "gentle" sessions if I'm wrecked or definitely have a big day out the next day.

Stamina / endurance:

Keep up with the circuits / indoor routes, and try to focus on doing them slower and calmer with deliberate recovery and shaking out where possible.

Mind / confidence:

Falling practice. I just had to look up which out of practice/practise was correct, so I better fucking do it.

Fitness:

Keep up with gym / running and not shy away from walk-ins. I've done okay with walk-ins recently, I'm certainly no worse than usual (although never going to get any better), so that's some reassurance.

Patience.

Enough said. I've had low periods before and worked through them. This will be the same.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: When 5c is no longer easy, and 5b isn't a rest any more...
Post by: comPiler on June 14, 2013, 07:00:06 pm
When 5c is no longer easy, and 5b isn't a rest any more... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/06/when-5c-is-no-longer-easy-and-5b-isnt.html)
14 June 2013, 2:51 pm



Glen Nevis, another zone of usual comfort and maximum inspiration. Another easy mileage day where the easy felt hard and the hard felt incomprehensible despite my colossal personal desire to tackle it. Every time I think about, read about, see one of the challenging routes that inspires me, I want to do them with such a pure passion, but at the same time they just seem incompatible with my current state. It's like not being myself, living as someone else, and being unable to reconcile a true view and a distorted view.

This comes out when I am doing mileage routes - I feel it is something I need to do, should do (see....wrong terms for climbing desire already!) to get back to progressing, but that does not feel right for me. Gym training is horrible BUT it is a means to an end. Indoor wall training is just training but it is fun and means to an end. Climbing is not a means to an end, climbing is the end, an all-encompassing action and activity in it's own right, where the path to progression has as much value as the progression. Thus routes-as-training is valuable only if those routes are intrisically valuable irrespective of the end goal of doing them.

Certainly the few climbs I did were good, one even classic, but not being true inspirations, it felt odd doing them - going through the motions, but not my motions. The motions of a shadow-self - a shadow-self who finds smearing unnerving and discomforting, so definitely related to my normal self!! This was perhaps the best learning of the day, how out of touch I am with different rock types. Too much break-to-break-slam-in-cams of Reiff and Ardmair and not enough hunting for RPs at Creag Dubh nor laybacking up rounded ramps at Polldubh. Viewed in this was, I did get important value out of the day, and a lesson learnt.

------

Concurrently with the above realisations, I was wondering what is best for me during a low period. One thing that is really helpful is having positive and encouraging friends and partners around me. People who have plenty of syke, people who will include me in their plans, people who will happily get me out there and get me involved, people who will recognise when climbing feels difficult and be supportive and understanding, people who will be part of a general good atmosphere of sociability and climbing enthusiasm.

Alas in Scotland this still feels a long way away. Two of my better friends are now parents and very restricted with time. Other friends make very positive noises about getting out climbing but then always seem to be vague to me and then arrange things with other partners. For the day I ended up at Glen Nevis, I had specifically arranged to climb with a regular friend, who had texted me the evening before to acknowledge the plan and suggest somewhere in the Central Highlands, and then texted me shortly after to say he was climbing in the Cairngorms instead - no explanation, no reason to let me down, and no reply to txts nor a phone call asking what was going on. This is hardly a good atmosphere of sociability and climbing enthusiasm!! Thankfully I found someone new at the last minute, but it does show how external odds can be stacked against me, and I'm not sure what I can do about that. Keep banging my head against the wall of txt/msg silence, and keep finding strangers rather than friends to climb with?? And keep fighting my low climbing ebb on my own, I guess...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Baby Steps...
Post by: comPiler on June 17, 2013, 01:00:14 pm
Baby Steps... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/06/baby-steps.html)
17 June 2013, 11:21 am



Day in the Lakes, at Swirl Crag. Unlike last time in the Lakes, I didn't wreck a tyre on a fallen rock, didn't waste 3 hours and £170 getting it sorted out, and didn't wreck my sanity by failing on an easy warm-up route and doing fuck all else. Okay, this time I did fail on the easy warm-up route, well it was a bit tricky but as usual I was a bit fucking rubbish, got sloppy with my feet, and pinged off the sort of move that is normally utterly familiar to me. So starting the day with the usual bollox. But I managed to salvage something by getting up a couple of other easy warm-up routes for mileage (pretty much the sort of routes I wouldn't have even bothered getting on two months ago).

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zlkALfeWlZg/Ub7qKuEMWCI/AAAAAAAAA6A/RUjYMM3xa9g/s400/fiend_swirl.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zlkALfeWlZg/Ub7qKuEMWCI/AAAAAAAAA6A/RUjYMM3xa9g/s1600/fiend_swirl.jpg)

Crap climber does easy routes - not noteworthy in itself, BUT for a change I actually enjoyed them. They were good climbs - a steep powerful thin crack on one, a bold balancy thin crack on the other (above) with good climbing, on a new-to-me crag that I'd fancied visiting, and I was a bit more focused on trying to do them well. Focus that I wouldn't normally need, but focus that got me involved in appreciating the routes and hinting at the possibilty of progressing slowly by using and pushing that focus. A small step for punterkind....



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: More steps...
Post by: comPiler on June 23, 2013, 07:00:05 pm
More steps... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/06/more-steps.html)
23 June 2013, 12:16 pm



Ratho #1 - Went along with suitably low expectations and came away with surprisingly high reassurance. The ulterior motive was falling practice of course, and I was sweating in the car on the drive over about the prospect of dropping off! I decided to start small and work up, and ended up taking a few decent falls and doing a few decent routes. Fiend 1 - Punterage 0.

Falcon Crag - I've started to revise the Lake District guides and realise that I still have plenty of easy mileage to do there, not stuff that really fires me up but plenty of choice at least. Falcon Crag is a prime example as it's butt-ugly with weird rock and weirder lines, but there's loads of mid-grade routes to go at and the adventurous terrain, spaced protection and inevitable massive rope drag make for good trad practice. I did fine on a couple of easier routes, and enjoyed them despite the crag aesthetics (or lack thereof).

Castle Rock - More revision, this time of the quite frankly excellent Eastern Crags guide which not only covers a lot of climbing closest to Scotland, but has the best photo-topos I've seen for the rambling mashed up Lakes crags. The main wall topo at Castle Rock look like viewing a tube map on acid, but they do actually make sense of the features. Another couple of easy-ish routes, one of which took a wee bit of effort and I put that wee bit in and again it went fine. Rigor Mortis, actually a brilliant route, more enjoyment, more positive steps.

Ratho #2 - Slightly higher expectations, slightly better performance. I'm actually climbing closer to my normal Ratho average despite still punting along outside. More pumpy routes, more fun falls. Well not too many falls, with Robert D on the end of the rope with his super-stiff lock-off plate, I got a bit bored of the 6 Gs of deceleration at the end of each fall nearly snapping me in half. I need to go there with more skinny oiks and wee lasses I think ;).

I'm starting to feel like a crap climber climbing easy routes well, rather than a crap climber climbing easy routes badly. That is another step... I'm also enjoying the easy routes, which gives me the correct positive motivation to try things a bit harder....maybe....



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Step step step...
Post by: comPiler on July 01, 2013, 01:00:10 pm
Step step step... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/07/step-step-step.html)
1 July 2013, 11:06 am



One foot after the other, one hand after the other. The sort of methodical pacing that got me into a couple of crags recently, and seemed to keep me climbing reasonably once I got there. It is a bit of an anathema to go to the excellent and usually reassuring Wester Ross for mileage when there are such inspiring challenges up there, but I still have a few places to potter around at... Stone Valley is on the cusp for me as there are both gentle routes like The Thug and Demon Razor to play on (both good fun and good value), but also the imposing Cat Burglar looming over, whispering and tempting. Common sense and rain showers forced a retreat to a swift rope-tarp shelter, and ensured I will have to return to the utterly anti-Fiend 30 minute murderous heather slog at some point....maybe.

Diabeg Peninsula is another crag I don't really want to have to walk to again, as the apparently flat 45 mins around from Diabeg Main is an endless trudge on the roughest of all "paths" with a final sting to get to Rolling Wall - a gentle Leaning Block-esque stroll this is not! Nevertheless I have been reliably informed than the splendid and desperate-looking line of The Applecross Jam is actually "E3" so I might be tempted as I avoided it this time. I also avoided succeeding on Aquamarine, but this was actually bloody desperate. So I have gone from a crap climber failing on easy routes to a crap climber failing on hard routes, more small progress. Mileage on a couple of other routes there went fine, and Brave New World is a truly brilliant E2.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yuYOSPInNoc/UdFgXFa7cwI/AAAAAAAAA6U/cMD4pD2Ovks/s400/dragonfly.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yuYOSPInNoc/UdFgXFa7cwI/AAAAAAAAA6U/cMD4pD2Ovks/s800/dragonfly.jpg)Stone valley local pondering on sandbagging us with duff beta.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xlV616XMY3I/UdFgbmQwIPI/AAAAAAAAA6c/me8ERKVthMg/s400/sheltertent2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xlV616XMY3I/UdFgbmQwIPI/AAAAAAAAA6c/me8ERKVthMg/s800/sheltertent2.jpg)Camalot 3, C3 000, two slings, some rope and a rope tarp. Bear fucking Grylls or something.

The final "avoiding challenges" venue has been Rosehearty, by far the best cliff for the E2-5 climber on the East of the UK between Bowden and errr....well I guess you could follow the coast around to Sheigra?? Suffice to say despite several visits I am still dabbling firmly at the lower end of the scale. 2 months ago I was hugely fired up for some slightly harder routes there, at the moment I have to potter, not least because the massive steepness is pretty much my anti-style. Still there was plenty to potter on, and as on previous visits the contrasting slab climbing was even better than the more extensive thuggery on the sea faces. Having a small social group out (all 3 of us!) meant I actually got some nice photos taken too. At the end of the day I might have stood a fair chance on something tricky, but the Essential 1 hour time window between the sun drying the smeg off and the sun making the rock too warm had closed, and I will have to wait for a fresher day. In the meantime there is a lot more training to be done and the fairly dire forecast looks very suitable for that.  

Photodump from Rosey in distinctly non-dire weather:   (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AZKpvD2hba4/UdFgyaDv8YI/AAAAAAAAA6k/kw5d1BVLa80/s400/fiend_lambada1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AZKpvD2hba4/UdFgyaDv8YI/AAAAAAAAA6k/kw5d1BVLa80/s800/fiend_lambada1.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L5TmhObnsJM/UdFg1aIRw2I/AAAAAAAAA6s/qYXZbhM-Jks/s400/fiend_lambada2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L5TmhObnsJM/UdFg1aIRw2I/AAAAAAAAA6s/qYXZbhM-Jks/s720/fiend_lambada2.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wrlh81tO_2c/UdFg5HEjzwI/AAAAAAAAA60/LMIxcSnHUj8/s400/fiend_steep1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wrlh81tO_2c/UdFg5HEjzwI/AAAAAAAAA60/LMIxcSnHUj8/s720/fiend_steep1.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tXY2qm2LITI/UdFg8HtPwhI/AAAAAAAAA68/FX0qb-Y5EKg/s400/fiend_steep2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tXY2qm2LITI/UdFg8HtPwhI/AAAAAAAAA68/FX0qb-Y5EKg/s720/fiend_steep2.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2YI1W_iMOFQ/UdFg_VasM2I/AAAAAAAAA7E/Kic2g8NnbKk/s400/fiend_steep3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2YI1W_iMOFQ/UdFg_VasM2I/AAAAAAAAA7E/Kic2g8NnbKk/s800/fiend_steep3.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kMvrlXJx1UM/UdFhCn_7evI/AAAAAAAAA7M/OJ1wHAClcwo/s400/fiend_essential1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kMvrlXJx1UM/UdFhCn_7evI/AAAAAAAAA7M/OJ1wHAClcwo/s720/fiend_essential1.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jyTABdoDtMM/UdFhE7PUgxI/AAAAAAAAA7U/DKn-WqfnRD4/s400/fiend_essential2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jyTABdoDtMM/UdFhE7PUgxI/AAAAAAAAA7U/DKn-WqfnRD4/s720/fiend_essential2.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Challenge #5: Bratach Uaine (plus more Aberdeen n stuff)
Post by: comPiler on July 10, 2013, 07:00:13 pm
Challenge #5: Bratach Uaine (plus more Aberdeen n stuff) (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/07/challenge-5-bratach-uaine-plus-more.html)
10 July 2013, 5:08 pm



Finally, back on the wagon. Maybe properly, maybe temporarily, who knows. It's kinda gone thusly:

Harper's Wall: Laid a few ghosts to rest here. Previous scores included a rubbish day failing on Silent Partner, and another rubbish day failing on Che. This day definitely had good potential to be rubbish - it was in the shade, in the shelter of a warm south-westerly, just after high tide with a big swell and sea-spray, and it had rained in the morning. And yet utterly contrary to established wisdom, it turned out to be some of the best conditions I've found on Aberdeen granite. How? Why? I have no idea. Suffice to say I rattled off One Two Three Go, Silent Partner (a successful retro-flash being ensured by me only being able to remember "I got pumped" (it's strenuous rather than pumpy) and "I think there was a wallnut 9" (no there wasn't)), and Free Spirit fairly comfortably and surprisingly enjoyably given the well-described "primitive delights" of the undercut starts. More fun was had with Brad's attempt to continue his ritual sacrifices to the sea, with a dismount off Rock Mushroom leaving both of us dangling from a single small cam above the deepest dankest and hungriest-looking of the filthy green pools at the base "No Brad don't pull back on the rock, as you go up I will go right down...." :).

Black Dyke: Another crag with two unsuccessful visits, but this time due to birds and breeze rather than climbing failures. This time went even smoother than Harper's Wall. We warmed up at Earnsheugh with me following Death Cap and having a rather atmospheric belay on the eyrie between two equidistant gulls that simple sat there, cock-headed, giving me the beadiest of beady-eyed stares. Then we hit Black Dyke with the tide going out, the sun leaving the baked rock, and enough breeze curling around. I got to grips with 3 good routes, including the hardest I'd done for a while - On The Rocks, which despite the guidebook claims of "well protected" required a lot of patience fiddling in tiny wires and cams, and then a cool sideways dyno into thuggy terrain. Very satisfying.

Creag Dubh: Back to Creag Dubh and feeling more like I have a fighting chance of climbing what I really want there. This time was only one route, and more unfinished business. Last time I'd climbed up to the crux of Bratach Uaine 5 times before giving up in disgust at my weakness. This time, after a lot of training, surely I would feel stronger enough to crush it?? Well.....no. Not any stronger physically, it felt just as bloody hard and powerful and reachy. But....I felt stronger mentally after a bit of falling practise, and committed to a full on crossover lunge, got the sloper, blasted up 5m of overhanging jugs to a ledge and gear, and wombled up the rest. Very committing, very cool.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2TnZvU8QMlY/Ud1RQMGXJ9I/AAAAAAAAA7k/0ndPZz5rO3k/s400/redpoint.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2TnZvU8QMlY/Ud1RQMGXJ9I/AAAAAAAAA7k/0ndPZz5rO3k/s1600/redpoint.jpg) After a day not redpointing anything... Creag Nan Cadhag: An intermediate day en-route to Diabeg, just to explore somewhere new. This is one of the many hidden sport crags in the Wester Ross area - this time hidden in plain view above the road past Stone Valley, it is essentially the sport sector of Stone Valley! A good position to catch the breeze and rattle a few routes off. I thought I'd done enough rattling for the day but local activist Paul Tattersall had turned up and after some healthy debate on North West Scotland bolting ethics, peer-pressured me into trying the classic Axe Grinder, which I had little expectations of success on. Somehow I crimped furiously enough the initial ramp and compressed frantically enough up the slopey crux bulge to make it to the top. An unexpected delight and a great little route.

Diabeg: The forecast was cloudy, cool, and breezy, so just to be contrary, it didn't rain, it sizzled instead. Wall Of Flame would have been far too well-named and was off the cards right from sweating up the walk-in, but the fact I could look at it with anticipation rather than terrified incomprehension felt like progress. The morning was merely muggy, but with enough shade to do the totally underrated Bogie opposite the Main Cliff. The afternoon was fierce, with Coel frying like an egg on The Pillar whilst I cowered under a fringe of heather. Retreat to a dip in the bay and the pub was the only option, and pan fried sea-bream with black olive tapenade on a garden pea risotto with a tangy salsa was particularly delicious.

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_PlPS32LjFY/Ud1RSTsackI/AAAAAAAAA7s/1XQGegoMZE4/s400/temp2013.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_PlPS32LjFY/Ud1RSTsackI/AAAAAAAAA7s/1XQGegoMZE4/s1600/temp2013.jpg)?Seriously, fuck off.

After this it has got stupidly hot and a 3 hour drive down an unduly busy A9 into the blazing 28'c sun with no air con was pretty tedious. So now it's no longer to wet to climb, not too cold to climb, nor too midgey to climb, nor too partner-barren to climb, but too hot *rolls eyes*.  But I feel on this wee jaunt that I have built a little buffer of confidence on a bigger buffer of mileage and training, so am happy to take things how they come. Having got into the mileage mode I feel happy to do what the conditions dictate - aiming for the most awesome challenges but dropping down to ticking over if that is what is needed.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Slabs and Paths.
Post by: comPiler on July 15, 2013, 07:00:10 pm
Slabs and Paths. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/07/slabs-and-paths.html)
15 July 2013, 12:10 pm



Glen Nevis, the true home of Scottish slab climbing. North West slabs are too easy and too scattered, Creag Ghlas is too singular and too far to walk, the Cairngorms are pretty much Alpine to get to, and as for the Etive Slabs, that's not proper slab climbing or proper climbing at all, any more than a cat skating up and down a tiled roof would be. Proper slab climbing involves crimps and rockovers as well as smears. So, Glen Nevis then - coarse, flakey, textured schist, from roadside to 30mins walk, in a sunny and beautiful glen (albeit with Cafe Beag serving the worst coffee I've encountered in a decade - AVOID). The path of Glen Nevis slab righteousness (not all pure slabs but with signficant slabby or off-vertical climbing) could look like this:

Rubberface - easy and pleasant

Twitch - (not done)

Bewsey Crack - tricky and varied.

Liquidator - [attempted - crack is unclimbably filthy]

Fang - (not done yet)

Plague Of Blazes - classic bold slab, does exactly what it promises

Slatehead Slab  -   (not done)

Quadrode - (not done yet)  

Cathode Smiles - (not done yet)  

Double Or Quits Direct - eliminate but nice rock

Reptile - good and varied on funky rock  

Earthstrip  - classic line, tricky in places

Diode - brilliant route, perfect thin crack/slab, underrated

Kaos - quite tricky and good value

Travelling Man  - awkward and unnerving but good

Ground Zero  - serious and bold, good rock and good line

Land Ahoy - mostly protectionless but somehow quite brilliant

Vincent (?)  -   (not done yet, might not be slabby enough?)

Crackattack - tricky but good the easier way, perhaps a bit steep

Edgehog  - polished chalky trade route, but a classic

Mutant - [had a brief look while on Reptile, line is quite obscure]

Savage Cabbage - (not done yet)

Risque Grapefruit - (not done yet)  

Walter Wall  - great route with a lovely runout and good climbing

Sweet Little Mystery - [had a play on this, far too dangerous a solo]

Aquarian Rebels - [had a look at this, a bit dirty and looks desperate]

Freddie Across The Mersey - (not done yet)

On Some Beach - (not done yet)

Triode - (not done yet)  

(I've left out some of the right-hand routes on Wave Buttress because although they look great, I'm pretty sure they will be unclimbably filthy too.)

In the context of this list of justice, my progression throughout has been....okay so far. But it's the last few on the list, especially the last two, that particularly fascinate me. Steep bold slab climbing with BIG but potentially safe run-outs above decent gear. The sort of inspiration that got me to do Poetry Pink after 10 years of desire, and will hopefully get me to do a couple of those routes after a mere 3 years of similar desire. Of course for something "beyond" my limits, I need to get everything right - motivation, confidence, tactics, and especially weather - the sunniest crags in Scotland in the wettest, midgiest area in Scotland beneath the biggest fucking mountain in Scotland makes good conditions surprisingly elusive for somewhere so accessible.

This last Sunday the ridiculous heat had finally fucked off and the breeze had kicked off (it was much cooler at Sunday lunchtime than it was late Friday night). I'd taken it steady on the Wave walk-in by stopping off in the Gorge, warmed up on the rather scary Ground Zero (E3 5b??) and was feeling ready to give On Some Beach a go.... But....

THE WRONG SHOES GROMMIT!!

I definitely had the right trousers (cheap Adidas from Sport's Direct, well insulated from the breeze and with the orange stripes nicely matching my orange vest), but the wrong shoes. I'd overestimated how smeary Wave was (not very) and underestimated how edgy it was (quite a bit on the coarse grains and nobbles), and had brought my well-worn soft shoes, good for sensitivity and smearing, but less good for support and toe-power. Even on GZ I felt I wasn't able to dig in hard enough on the nubbins, and I just didn't trust myself to try OSB with that odd stacked against me. Two trips to Wave I've been syked but it's got too hot, one trip I've been syked but wrong shoes....another stroll down through the Gorge path without the experience of that mega-challenge.

Talking of paths...

Another lesson learnt this weekend was to be wary of straying off the beaten path. Even in the super-accessible and well-renowned Glen, it seems anything less than the Scottish Rock (SMC, not Gary's!) trade routes can be scarcely climbable. The day before we went to Creag Am Fithich to take advantage of a brief afternoon and low-ish river wade. Well the river wade was the highlight of the day, as Caterpillar had a fairly filthy finish, and Steerpike had a too-dangerous-to-abseil hollow tree after the actual climbing, and a quite unbelievable grovel up vertical moss. Then en-route back from Wave, Aquarian Rebels had a thin veneer of lichen that made it look even more impossible than it's initial "flared fingertip seam in an utterly blank slab" appearances, and I had to aid the easy escape route of Liquidator as it's crack was utterly full of moss - a pity as the starting moves above the river and the situation are both very fun, and the finish is easy to return to dry land. Opposite on the Gorge Wall, Chimera and Easy Pickings look just as good lines as when I had a brief play on the former 3 years ago, and even dirtier and mossier.

Have any of these routes had ascents this decade?

Was it really a good idea for Gary to directly copy descriptions out of Highland Outcrops without checking if these routes are climbable?

Why on earth is Edgehog so bleached with chalk and wear you can see it from the carpark, but more accessible routes are just walked past?

Is it because of Extreme-bloody-rock?? All Ken's fault?

Or is it because trad climbing is dying in Scotland whilst dogging up Dunkeld and days out at Angus shit-holes are flourishing?? In which case maybe we need Ken more than ever?

Is there any point me straying off the beaten path in the Glen again?

No probably not...

Going to take both pairs of shoes next time though...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Mo Fire
Post by: comPiler on July 16, 2013, 07:00:08 pm
Mo Fire (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/07/mo-fire.html)
16 July 2013, 3:49 pm



The wrong sort of fire though - not the spiritual blaze of passion and excitement but the burning oppression of sultry solar rays. It seems the respite from the ridiculous "southern england" style heatwave was as brief as the usual respite from the typical "northern scotland" style monsoons. From Metoffice:

Fort William:

Sat 20 Jul Day 25 °C W 3 mph Very Good

Aviemore:

Sat 20 Jul Day 26 °C NE 5 mph Very Good

Ullapool:

Sat 20 Jul Day 22 °C N 5 mph Very Good

Too fucking HOT by far. Ullapool might be the only option this weekend, at least it's got sea-cliffs and some north-ish facing crags....if one can escape the midges.

It looks perfectly timed, just as my confidence and determination are trickling back, any semblence of good conditions are trickling away like sweat down the hands and onto the holds. Once again I must be patient and WAIT and find something better to do than failing on challenging routes just because it's too hot. So what should that be?? Well if I was back in Sheffield it would be obvious - dogging down the dales, sheltering under a canopy of limestone overhangs and trees, dicking around on a rope with little pressure other than training and exercise. Sure the climbing would be shit but there would be plenty of choice. Up here, much less so....

Dicking around on a rope....

Glen Ogle shady side

Tunnel Wall

Dumby before evening

Myopics Buttress before evening

Creag Nan Luch if I'm up that way already

All the bolted torridonian sandstone if I'm up that way already

(Not the Angus quarries as I would rather take a belt sander to my bellend)

Seeking shade....

Reiff area (some of it)

Gruinard area

Aberdeen coast (if not smeggy)

Lakes (East-ish crags esp)

Lednock west side

Crag Lough and Peel Crag (quite a good idea actually!)

Easy mileage....

Yet again, *yawn*

Other options....

Deep Water soloing?? Craig Stirling!! But maybe too greasy if it's that warm.

Getting up high in the mountains?? Ha-fucking-ha. Anyone got any new veins? Though not. Fuck off.

Any other ideas?? Climbing ones of course... Let me know...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on July 16, 2013, 11:02:07 pm
Fancy some DWS questing?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 16, 2013, 11:04:14 pm
I might do at some point!! Will let you know if I do as the deen is very likely the place to go.

Edit: Actually I probably need coaching as generally I am fucking terrified and climb a few hundred grades lower when facing a fall into water rather than onto gear!!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on July 17, 2013, 08:37:45 am
It's not a few hundred grades lower than what you normally climb. I've been repelled on numerous occasions when I've been on good form. Not high though.
Title: Re: Step step step...
Post by: Wood FT on July 17, 2013, 10:30:09 am


(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2YI1W_iMOFQ/UdFg_VasM2I/AAAAAAAAA7E/Kic2g8NnbKk/s400/fiend_steep3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2YI1W_iMOFQ/UdFg_VasM2I/AAAAAAAAA7E/Kic2g8NnbKk/s800/fiend_steep3.jpg)


That's a great picture!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 19, 2013, 06:56:58 pm
Thanks. Credit to Tris Fox who took it!
Title: Game over man, GAME OVER.
Post by: comPiler on July 22, 2013, 01:00:19 am
Game over man, GAME OVER. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/07/game-over-man-game-over.html)
21 July 2013, 6:40 pm



It's officially too warm for me, even when it pretends to be not too warm. I went to Creag Dubh on a cloudy afternoon, fresh-ish sou'westerly breeze, and 20-ish'C forecast. Pleasant and promising on the belay of Inbred in a windproof, but just too warm on the rock. I started up something bold and having to check my tips and chalk on almost every move indicated.... GAME OVER. I retreated before I got fully game overed. That was one of the "coolest" days recently and it just wasn't good for me to push myself, it was disappointing to do essentially fuck all in a long day out, but it was needed to confirm that I had to wait until it's properly crisp again, when 20'C is an unduly warm day rather than an unduly cool one.

So I haven't done much climbing of note, thankfully I still have my pottering syke to keep the mileage going, and I've also had nice days out with friends and other creatures... Recent highlights including:

Creag Dubh - as well as backing off other stuff, I didn't back off Erse soon enough and ended up in mild but genuine mortal fear 15m up, 5m above terrible RPs, one in a flared crack one in a loose block. Downclimb of death. Also saw two LIVE goats with very big horns.

Berrymuir Head - got puked on by a seagull, not nearly as rancid as my only previous gull vomit encounter, but grim enough, I started swearing at the gull until noticing it was guarding a big ball of fluff with a beak sticking out....a perfectly perky and alive chick awww cute. Also spent much of the afternoon admiring Big Fat Seal On A Rock:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6XhPUlKdri4/UewnAhKa5uI/AAAAAAAAA8A/az_vMP_k6nA/s400/berryseal.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6XhPUlKdri4/UewnAhKa5uI/AAAAAAAAA8A/az_vMP_k6nA/s1600/berryseal.jpg)Big Fat Seal On A RockAnd had the common sense of current Berrymuir grading confirmed by two different climbers, and got syked for Roof Roof when it cools down, and had a fine BBQ meatathon courtesy of PJ - eating pure sirloin steak with bare hands nom nom nom.?

Arbroath - met "From The Anti-Headpoint Consortium: Ross", now escaped to Perth. Apparently the Consortium was just Dan's joke on Consumed and there's no ID cards, t-shirts, secret handshakes or anything. Another childhood dream RUINED. Anyway did a couple of cool steep routes on Granny's Garrett and watched Ross on a DWS project hidden in plain view beneath it. The sea claimed him before the project did. I wussed out and stayed dry.

Glen Ogle - "Camera....nah only going to Glen Ogle, shitty sport crags and just two of us, won't get any climbing shots. Hmmm maybe there will be wildlife....and last time there was a Hercules flying down the valley....nah fuck it can't be arsed." 2 hours later (after a rank fucking bumblethon through the worst of Callander traffic), pulled into the parking next to a police jeep with two coppers with binoculars....who pretty soon pointed out the pair of golden fucking eagles they'd been checking the location of ARSE BOLLOX ETC. Also failed on 3 grotty dirty F6cs in a row but did manage Metal Guru which was clean and really rather good, ace crux move on it. Belayed Ross Jr on "8a in an hour" and dicked around on a so-called F7b+ that seemed to have a font 7b+ crux but might be worth a look as it's a decent retreat from the heat. Got back from Ogle to Stirling in less than have the time it took to get there.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Back!!
Post by: comPiler on August 09, 2013, 01:00:08 pm
Back!! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/08/back.html)
9 August 2013, 11:13 am



...from 10 days in Pfalz.

It was ace. Far too bloody hot, but ace. I will write plenty more soon, but in the meantime, here is....

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b7EZIQzwAaY/UgTOx4Y3XGI/AAAAAAAAA8Q/toEzyKYn-Ec/s400/fatdormaus.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b7EZIQzwAaY/UgTOx4Y3XGI/AAAAAAAAA8Q/toEzyKYn-Ec/s1600/fatdormaus.jpg)...FAT DORMAUS IN A HOLE!!



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: It's War.
Post by: comPiler on August 13, 2013, 01:00:06 pm
It's War. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/08/its-war.html)
13 August 2013, 10:30 am



The most brutal, intractable war, the war within. The human mind is the most complex, most powerful, most potent thing....I only wish I actually got on with mine. 30+ years and it's still a stalemate.

So far, so teen angst. The issue is that while I am mostly a climber, some parts of me are not a climber. Some of those other parts are positive, if sometimes distracting, desires into other hobbies (yes, painting toy soldiers IS that genuine), and some of those other parts are inhibitive, self-sabotaging, anti-parts. Throw it all together and sometimes the result is a seemingly irresolvable maelstorm of thought spirals, desires, ambitions, inhibitions, indecisions and confusion.

I try to strip away the bullshit and the trivialities to just get on with the pure pleasure of climbing, but as I once said to a good friend who was jesting about my climbing obssession - the problem is, I'm not obsessed enough. Part of it is good stuff that gives me a wee bit of a rest and a bit of balance, part of it is self-destructive stuff that uncomfortably contradicts the bulk of the truth about myself. Desire vs destruction....the war within. I wish for clarity of mind but I'm slowly accepting it will never happen, so I keep fighting....a war of attrition, aiming to grind my mind into positive spirals.

Anyway, I have had a lazy, slothful, and confusing week, and have generally anticipated feeling weak and useless. I went to TCA and felt knackered - except then did a PB of 4 pullups on the smallest Beastmaker rungs. I went to GCC and felt very slow getting into things - except then had as good a session I've ever had. Apparently the body isn't as weak as the mind! That still doesn't excuse me from keeping training it though...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Pfalz.
Post by: comPiler on August 22, 2013, 01:00:06 am
Pfalz. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/08/pfalz.html)
21 August 2013, 8:38 pm



It's like a giant partially bolted Churnet Valley, crossbred with Nesscliffe and Helsby, scattered throughout a forested sauna, and topped with a mini-Oktoberfest.

36'c

....is a ridiculous temperature. By my standards 26'c is a ridiculous temperature and 10'c hotter is 10' more ridiculous. Driving around somewhere that looks a lot like middle England and getting out of the car into heat I've only ever experienced in Africa and the Caribbean was quite surreal. It's like stepping through the heat curtains you get across shop doorways in winter, except the heat just continues. Mid-week it cooled down a bit, I remember saying to Colin that it was much nicer at 26'c and he wisely pointed out that was still 10'c too hot for hard climbing. So there was precious little of that. Instead it was exploring and punting. Colin did a lot of chimneys, corners, and horizontal squirms, I did a lot of cracks, faces and the odd arete. We visited 21 crags in 10 days, and nearly as many summit ticks. I had to rest my skin but not my mind, despite the heat the syke held out well, helped by siestas!

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ukMH1oOZz64/UhUh3VHPPuI/AAAAAAAAA9g/HzjFy0hjxm4/s320/p29.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ukMH1oOZz64/UhUh3VHPPuI/AAAAAAAAA9g/HzjFy0hjxm4/s1600/p29.JPG)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nl0AoK6G6Mw/UhUh4KEg-bI/AAAAAAAAA9o/zWDC9D_zreY/s320/p39.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nl0AoK6G6Mw/UhUh4KEg-bI/AAAAAAAAA9o/zWDC9D_zreY/s1600/p39.JPG)

Preposterously Proportioned Protuberances

...are an essential part of the Pfalz experience. The sandstone varies in quality, coarseness, features and angles, but the crags stick to formations that are distinct in character and distinct from the surrounding terrain. Spires and summits, towers and ridges all protrude from the forest that covers 70% of the surrounding countryside. Sometimes proudly visible on hilltops from miles around, sometimes only a vague summit hints at the potential that is revealed to be overpowering 40m walls shaded by 30m trees. Any protruberance that overhangs the base is an essential tick and I did a few of those. Abseil descents and summit books were mandatory. The quality of the rock and climbing was not always as immaculate as somewhere like Siurana, but the fun of the experience was hard to beat.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zh4qWWFKfno/UhUh4Vg34NI/AAAAAAAAA9w/eXEeZvW9GSI/s320/p36.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zh4qWWFKfno/UhUh4Vg34NI/AAAAAAAAA9w/eXEeZvW9GSI/s1600/p36.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jshJaDeUyCU/UhUh0eHAxGI/AAAAAAAAA9Q/e1MnsLO8av0/s320/p24.JPG)  (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jshJaDeUyCU/UhUh0eHAxGI/AAAAAAAAA9Q/e1MnsLO8av0/s1600/p24.JPG)

Weissbier und schnitzel

...are highlights of the area, along with a gargantuan selection of pastries and pretzel products (pretzel croissant nom nom nom). It is not a place to go for a dietand the amount of calories expended climbing and trekking around only just justified the amount put in at dinner and breakfast. Weissbier on tap re-defines "refreshment", 9 Euros for two chunks of schnitzel, a mountain of papriked chips and a bowl of well dressed salad persuaded us away from camp cooking on a few occasions, and by the end the staff of the local bakery knew us as regulars and smiled at our 8 items order each morning. The campsite was not bad for 9 euros each a night in peak season, flat ground and a good shower - despite the campsite fuhrer who bollocked me for accidentally driving on the wrong side of the road, exceeding 5kph (which the car wouldn't do any less than, even idling in 1st), and driving after 10pm, despite it being the restaurant's staff's fault for forgetting my SCHNITZEL. Dragging me away from my delayed dinner, thanks you grumpy old fuck. Further humiliation came on the campsite's crazy golf course with Colin owning my arse by some of the biggest numbers seen on the trip.

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ff5IAmkyUl0/UhUhu5sXCXI/AAAAAAAAA84/z_ASTBxu9GY/s320/p06.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ff5IAmkyUl0/UhUhu5sXCXI/AAAAAAAAA84/z_ASTBxu9GY/s1600/p06.JPG)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GHgcC92UyGA/UhUhz-kAkyI/AAAAAAAAA9I/NLkLjeTBPSk/s320/p12.JPG)  (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GHgcC92UyGA/UhUhz-kAkyI/AAAAAAAAA9I/NLkLjeTBPSk/s1600/p12.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4HJqnvpyFE8/UhUhs8iuByI/AAAAAAAAA80/Ny4y2iNobOg/s320/p13.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4HJqnvpyFE8/UhUhs8iuByI/AAAAAAAAA80/Ny4y2iNobOg/s1600/p13.jpg)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zrYSAT9PLJo/UhUhwrKfJlI/AAAAAAAAA9E/RPSm2jLeYqQ/s320/p14.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zrYSAT9PLJo/UhUhwrKfJlI/AAAAAAAAA9E/RPSm2jLeYqQ/s1600/p14.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jKudUAv29nM/UhUhz3S_3cI/AAAAAAAAA9M/oMo92Gmnkpo/s320/p16.jpg)  (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jKudUAv29nM/UhUhz3S_3cI/AAAAAAAAA9M/oMo92Gmnkpo/s1600/p16.jpg)

Return match needed

The sheer fun, diversity and character of the area just about compensated for the heat and lack of challenging climbing....JUST ABOUT. It was an excellent trip to explore, do a lot of fun stuff, and get the measure of an area that is complex but scarcely 30 minutes drive tip to tip. But boy am I syked to return. Drop the temperature to sending temps, and there are many inspiring grade 8s that are as attractive as anything I've seen anywhere. Now I've explored fully, a long focussed weekend would do. God knows when reliable cool weather is in spring or autumn, but whenever it is, I want to be there!!

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hx4rjDS4xJY/UhUhqF5x5SI/AAAAAAAAA8o/bRA97-OgdSE/s320/p01.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hx4rjDS4xJY/UhUhqF5x5SI/AAAAAAAAA8o/bRA97-OgdSE/s1600/p01.JPG)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: aHoy there!
Post by: comPiler on August 29, 2013, 01:00:28 am
aHoy there! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/08/ahoy-there.html)
28 August 2013, 9:21 pm



Top tip for new dads struggling to get out climbing: bundle your wife and kid off to Kenya (n.b. it might help if your wife is Kenyan and has family there). Well it worked for PJ so we could get a fairly sustained period of climbing in, including Little O Wall (good new Aberdeen trad venue - no spurious jumping for the bolt gun up here), Brin Rock sport crag (I've now completed the triptych of the finest mid-grade challenges at Brin: Gold Digger on the trad, Brin Done Before on the blocs, and The One And Only on the bolts. TOAO required me to do a full on lunge for a good hold from a slopey pinch with the bolt quite beneath my feet, a somewhat miraculous feat for me), Long Slough to get full appreciation of the coast being too greasy to climb, and The Mound to ensure we just missed the last ferry to Orkney.

Thankfully an early ferry the next day got us to the mist-blanketed archipelago and started a mini-adventure that sated one of my minor desires for this year, exploring Orkney. The first day in the grey gloom at Yesnaby was an eerie and bleak experience, and battling tides and imminent sea-smeg slightly subdued the otherwise fine and convenient climbing. A lie-in during the next rainy morning started a planned rest day to recover syke before two glorious and rewarding days. A return visit to Yesnaby started omniously with Phil battling the hardest sandbag I've ever seen while I planked and squirmed on the hanging belay to only just avoid the incoming swell. Even on second I needed a lie down afterwards. But the day got better and better through realistically graded routes, steep cracks and grooves, mellow evening sun on dry rock and a lovely delicate arete to finish in the sunset.

Since we were there and had another dry day and needed a rest from proper climbing (technical single pitches) at Yesnaby, it seemed fair enough to do the Old Man Of Hoy. But not, of course, by the tedious polished trade route of The Original Route, strictly the preserve of tourists, munro-baggers and other such riff-raff. Instead we stepped out onto the South Face for a jolly jaunt which involved "rock" that evolved from very sandy to fragile plates and bulges to hanging death blocks, obscure route-finding up indeterminate shelves and hanging chimneys, the obligatory fulmars to weave around, and a nice grass slab too. I can't recall there being ANY good climbing on the route, but it was a good adventure. We got away scott-free with only the tiniest of fulmar droplets on my adidas trackies, but then again a massive graze inside my armpit from catching myself when a foothold broke. The much-publicised abseils back down went very smoothly and quickly, the walk out up to the mainland was utterly murderous on my legs, and the stomp back over just got us to the last ferry to Orkney and the relaxed and comfy charms of Brown's Hostel.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a6ysQS3ipsI/Uh5pA4wt0BI/AAAAAAAAA-A/wL5ROJ0Yrrs/s640/hoy6.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a6ysQS3ipsI/Uh5pA4wt0BI/AAAAAAAAA-A/wL5ROJ0Yrrs/s1600/hoy6.jpg)Yeah well, go fuck YOUR face.

And the next day we did the Old Man Of Moy on the way back to Aberdeen.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on August 29, 2013, 08:58:22 am
Old Man of Stoer on the way back to Aberdeen?

You might need to get better at walking or cycling before you tick the next classic stack; Am Bauchaille.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on August 29, 2013, 09:43:56 am
Did Am Buchaille in 2008. I was quite proud to have only done the unpopular and esoteric one of the big 3 and had no intention of doing the others - OMOH was pretty incidental. AB walk is flat so I could still do it fine, getting out from the coast would be the crux. Not sure if I could drive past Gairloch, Gruinard, Reiff, Ardmair etc to get to Stoer, I'm sure my car would swerve off to one of those areas ;)
Title: Sendtember???
Post by: comPiler on September 02, 2013, 01:00:10 pm
Sendtember??? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/09/sendtember.html)
2 September 2013, 11:02 am



...is the plan, theory, dream, inspiration, aspiration, ambition. I've sated my need for exploration at Pfalz and Orkney, abandoned Lewis to the weather gods and postphoned Berdorf until hopefully crisp autumn conditions. On my recent jaunt with PJ I found I was able to cope equally with spreading my considerable load across sandy decaying choss and hauling it upwards on small pebbly crimps and flakes, leading to the possible conclusion that I am climbing okay again and might be able to capitalise on that. Of course the forecast is very mixed, especially in North West Scotland, and the sometimes reliable Indian Summer is nowhere in sight, but then again it's cooled down a lot, it's getting out of midge season, and in the meantime I am also syked for training thank fuck.

On the subject of training I have tried to think how I can balance having fun doing it but also tailoring it to what might just be a little bit useful for the remaining routes I want to do. Which ends up like this:

Ardmair:

Neart Nan Gaidheal - general stamina, steep wall endurance

Burning Desire - steep wall endurance, sidepulls/flat/angled holds    

Reiff:

The Gift - general stamina,    sidepulls/flat/angled holds, steep bouldering power    

The Screamer - finger/crimp strength, general stamina, steep wall endurance  

The Road To Nowhere - static face climbing stamina,

Glen Nevis:

On Some Beach - finger/crimp strength, static face climbing stamina,  

Triode - finger/crimp strength,    

Risque Grapefruit - static face climbing stamina,    

Tomag - general stamina,  sidepulls/flat/angled holds    

Creag Dubh:

Colder Than A Hooker's Heart - finger/crimp strength, static face climbing stamina,    

The Final Solution - finger/crimp strength, static face climbing stamina,

Ayatollah - finger/crimp strength, static face climbing stamina,  

North West:

Each Uisge Direct - ???  

Wall Of Flame - finger/crimp strength,  

Instant Muscle -  finger/crimp strength,    

Cat Burglar - finger/crimp strength,  static face climbing stamina,

Tellaidol - finger/crimp strength,  steep wall endurance

Stand And Deliver -   finger/crimp strength, ???

North East:

Bat's Wall - general stamina, steep wall endurance    

Cocaine -  general stamina, steep wall endurance

Senakot Rose - general stamina, steep wall endurance    

Running Wild - finger/crimp strength,  steep wall endurance, steep bouldering power

Bob's Overhang -   finger/crimp strength, steep bouldering power

Timpani Wall - finger/crimp strength, general stamina,  

Central Highlands / Belt:

Edge Of Insanity - general stamina,    

Short Sharp Shock - steep wall endurance    

Velvet Glove -   general stamina, steep wall endurance  

Ivy League - finger/crimp strength, static face climbing stamina,

Purrblind Doomster - general stamina,    sidepulls/flat/angled holds    

Anger Management - general stamina,  sidepulls/flat/angled holds    

Empire Of The Sun - finger/crimp strength,  general stamina,  

Lady Charlotte - finger/crimp strength, static face climbing stamina,

Screaming Weem - finger/crimp strength, general stamina, steep wall endurance

....which leads to the conclusion that apart from the usual very obvious aspects to train like falling practise, falling practise, and falling practise, general fitness and general stamina, there are common themes to train:

Finger/crimp strength - many routes are on small fingery holds that I haven't trained so much.

Static face climbing stamina - many routes are maybe not so pumpy but have either enough thin climbing or bold climbing that necessitates hanging around long enough that I need to train hanging around long enough.

Steep wall endurance - some routes are obviously steeper and safer but pumpier and need a shorter term climbing endurance on steeper ground.

Sidepulls/flat/angled holds - a few of the less crimpy routes are on other non-generous holds, sometimes as part of aretes or whatever, and training their usage, compression and pressure etc, will be useful.

Steep bouldering power - a few rogue routes are obviously just bouldery bastards.

Ratho bouldering last week, that was mostly finger/crimp strength as far as the abrasively new holds allowed, with a bit of steep bouldering power thrown in. Ratho routes tonight which will obviously be general stamina but I should try to mix it up with some shorter harder things for fingers or steep wall endurance.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: O yeah.
Post by: comPiler on September 04, 2013, 01:00:09 pm
O yeah. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/09/o-yeah.html)
4 September 2013, 11:04 am



Aberdeen climbers are a bunch of choads. They have a typically insular scene so common in Scotland, made worse by a core of hoary old-timers as dour as the granite city itself and attendant scyophantic acolytes who try to keep the coast on lockdown. Their undue pride in and myopic devotion to the pokey little crags and lineless boulders of greasy schist and grubby granite blinds them to the realities of the area and excludes all else especially the input of outsiders. Their determination to keep Aberdeen climbing as an esoteric backwater extends to  obtuse guidebooks and obstreporous grading and works only too well to keep the crags as offputting as possible.

Aberdeen climbers are a great bunch. They are the most thriving and active trad scene in Scotland but also relish the full spectrum of climbing from cragging to mountains to bouldering to sport. They extend the mix-and-match approach of the off-shore scene to a welcoming vibe that includes offcomers into the melting pot of climbing partners. Their dedication to local cragging extends to cleaning, developing, and sharing conditions and advice. They have the vision to develop new sport lines near trad venues without them spoiling established routes, and new trad venues that are wholly appropriate, and the decency to publicise these venues so others can enjoy it.

Which ones of these statements is true?

Are they both true?

Are they both false?

Is it a black and white statement of a climbing scene? Or more likely, is it shades of grey? Perhaps shades of gay(lord) in some cases...

Suffice to say, having been to Little O Wall with ex-weeg and now-local PJ the other week and quite enjoyed it, I went back with ex-weeg/ex-burg and now semi-local raider Geek this week to chase up a remaining inspiration there. In what seems to be a typical Aberdonian style, Little O has been discovered recently on the doorstep of the alarming sport venue Orchestra Cave and thoroughly developed into a fine, if rather slanty, trad venue. If the Central Belt sport climbing hordes had got their hands on it no doubt it would be a great shit and pointless sport climbing crag, but up on the Coast common sense still prevails and it's a very worth addition to the coastal trad (just like the Johnsheugh refurbishment last year). Of course it's still as fickle with conditions, sometimes tricky protection and rock, and as an extra bonus for this crag, a distinctly evil tilt to the holds sloping down leftwards. A good test of balance and persistence - including Timpani Wall which was a good challenge, quite reasonable but still slightly arduous for a series of hands off rests!

All good stuff. I wonder what they have up their sleeves up there next...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: fatneck on September 06, 2013, 10:19:08 am
This is one genius rant :)

Quote
Aberdeen climbers are a bunch of choads. They have a typically insular scene so common in Scotland, made worse by a core of hoary old-timers as dour as the granite city itself and attendant scyophantic acolytes who try to keep the coast on lockdown. Their undue pride in and myopic devotion to the pokey little crags and lineless boulders of greasy schist and grubby granite blinds them to the realities of the area and excludes all else especially the input of outsiders. Their determination to keep Aberdeen climbing as an esoteric backwater extends to  obtuse guidebooks and obstreporous grading and works only too well to keep the crags as offputting as possible.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 06, 2013, 10:21:59 am
It's all a hypothetical viewpoint....
Title: It's a trap.
Post by: comPiler on September 06, 2013, 10:22:11 pm
It's a trap. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/09/its-trap.html)
6 September 2013, 6:37 pm



It's a trap to do some practice falls and feel comfortable enough that I don't bother doing any for the rest of the session.

It's a trap to do practise falls and then get on a tricky lead and just shout "take" when I'm tired because I think I've done enough falls.

It's a trap to do a few good leads and assume next time out things will go at least as well and I can just coast along.

It's a trap to do some great routes and feel like I'm achieving what I want and don't need to train as hard.

It's a trap to feel strong and fit down the wall or gym and think that that is strong and fit enough and I don't have to go down as much.

It's a trap to go down to TCA and feel I've done enough and not go for my pathetic but essential 10 minute micro-run afterwards.

It's a trap to think that any single burst of exercise I do in a day (wall, gym, walk, run, route) is enough and I don't have to do more.

It's a trap to be lured into comfort and complacency by any of the above.

Climbing is not about being comfortable and complacement. It's about being in uncomfortable and challenging situations and being fit, strong, determined, inspired and desiring enough to not only cope with those situations, but relish and thoroughly enjoy both the challenge and intrinsic pleasure of those situations. To prepare for that in climbing, I need to be sensible and aware in training and exercise, and avoid those traps.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: How much do I want this??
Post by: comPiler on September 09, 2013, 07:00:15 pm
How much do I want this?? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/09/how-much-do-i-want-this.html)
9 September 2013, 12:56 pm



I'm squatting on a small overhung ledge, shaking out on two decent crimps. Above the wall barrels out slightly, but I carefully lock my right hand onto a sloping rail, match feet and stand up through the tension of keeping my body in to stay on the rail, and leaning out nervously to see the higher holds. I stretch up towards the obvious good pocket...5 inches too short. I shuffle my feet out....4 inches too short. I twist slightly....3 inches too short. It hasn't changed in any of the tentative attempts. I feel a small two finger pocket for my left hand, I look down at the small footholds a lot further in than the balancing ledge, and know I'll have to do a dynamic slap into the pocket. I also know I can do the move...

...but there's a slight problem. There's gear at my feet when I'd start the move, clipped 2 feet lower due to necessary extension. This is not a bad position, but the gear is two reasonable wires in a hollow flake that flexes when I use it to rock over, backed up with a small cam in a very shallow slot. I guess it would slow me down. 2 metres below is the good gear, a couple of solid wires, but off to the side from the perched ledge ensuring a clattering fall onto the lower rocks if something went wrong (but at least if/when the flake ripped off, it would miss me). I'm probably "safe", but the prospect still feels pretty terrifying, not least hanging around working out the steep moves after the pocket. And I'm 5'8" +1 AI, and it's obvious this guidebook-described "longish reach" is done by just that, reaching, rather than an extra and dynamic move. So it's harder and more serious than I had planned for. So...

How much do I want this??

There is a small amount of genuine danger and a large amount of genuine fear involved. A small amount of frustration and a large amount of inspiration.

In the end the desire is not enough and I back off, removing gear as I go. But then I'm lying in bed at night, thinking. Maybe I should go back on a fresher day. Maybe I should discuss with my partner how much of a challenge it's going to be. Maybe I should arrange for a running belay down the fine grass slopes. Maybe I should take some skyhooks. Maybe I'll be back. Maybe I'll do the move, because maybe I *do* want it enough??

 

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: fatneck on September 10, 2013, 12:16:17 pm
Nice couple of posts there Fiend....
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: iain on September 10, 2013, 12:54:04 pm
+1
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on September 10, 2013, 02:05:23 pm
If it's near me, I have considerable bealying ballast, and was capable of a good sprint in my youth. I will also shout MTFU at the right moment.

However there is a risk I may reach through easily, and dismiss it as piss :)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 10, 2013, 10:53:05 pm
Thanks guys  :)

Chris it is a good 3 hours away from you and at a fairly fickle crag! But thanks anyway.
Title: Challenge #6 - Purrblind Doomster.
Post by: comPiler on September 11, 2013, 07:00:09 pm
Challenge #6 - Purrblind Doomster. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/09/challenge-6-purrblind-doomster.html)
11 September 2013, 4:13 pm



It's been a wee while, but I've finally got on something challenging, something intense, something that got my heart racing, my hands sweating, got me committed and sketching...

And that was just the warm-up, sandbagged in the sun thanks to Geek "well if I'd told you it used to get a grade harder and is quite sketchy, you might not have got syked for it". Fair enough, it got me fighting a bit! And then it was retreating into the shade for the main event. The Purr-Blind Doomster had gone from "looks cool but well beyond me" in the previous Lowland  Outcrops photo, to "maybe I can aspire to that" after doing Chisel and Big  Country Dreams in 2009, to "I need to do this" this year. Old  inspirations....

So, as well as being a fairly hard climb for me, it was also a Fairly Big Deal, the biggest this year at least. Which explains why I'd gone up to place the early gear and re-warm up, downclimbed, and was now standing on the ground, intensely analysing the chalk crystals I was crushing, and trying to stop shaking inside. "It's alright to be nervous, but not anxious" Jerry said, and I was definitely fluctuating around that border. The butterflies in my stomach were of primordial proportions to match the jungle atmosphere, I tried to sooth them by drip-feeding them little nuggets of truth: "Get stood on the finger jug, place gear", "Layback over to the big sloper, place gear", "Fingerlock with the right, left heel-hook, over into the pod, place gear", "Stretch over to the arete, shake out". That was where my plans stopped and the blind committment started, curiously that was where I started to relax, after hyper-ventilating through the sloper and crack pod. The solution to being so nervous about doing the climb....do the climb. Still, stepping off the ground was the fairly biggest deal. Doing it was a big deal in a different way, it was all about the combination of challenge with pure quality, and after all THAT is why I stepped off the ground....because it's bloody great...

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wV6UPlshsDw/UjBlwpxBcZI/AAAAAAAAA-0/stQtKDVwJJ4/s400/fiend_purr1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wV6UPlshsDw/UjBlwpxBcZI/AAAAAAAAA-0/stQtKDVwJJ4/s1600/fiend_purr1.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BDibwlnQ_4E/UjBlwVxqolI/AAAAAAAAA-s/dU4e5TMddqY/s400/fiend_purr2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BDibwlnQ_4E/UjBlwVxqolI/AAAAAAAAA-s/dU4e5TMddqY/s1600/fiend_purr2.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oMfwXc-ZzKM/UjBlwthtrvI/AAAAAAAAA-4/wx71NRGiFBU/s400/fiend_purr3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oMfwXc-ZzKM/UjBlwthtrvI/AAAAAAAAA-4/wx71NRGiFBU/s1600/fiend_purr3.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Positive / Negative
Post by: comPiler on September 12, 2013, 07:00:07 pm
Positive / Negative (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/09/positive-negative.html)
12 September 2013, 12:58 pm



Recently I have been involved in a colossal UKC debate on retro-bolting established trad routes in Ratho Quarry, without any warning, consultation nor attempt to make them more climbable as trad routes:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=554996&v=1

I have generally avoided arguments, discussions, bitching and trolling on UKC for a long time now, so stepping back into the pit has been a bit of a shock.

I'm not sure how much detail I need to go into here as the principles of UK climbing heritage and a trad / sport climbing balance are as blindingly obvious as the pro-uncontested-retro-bolting arguments are fallacious. Normally the whole "try to convince people on a forum the sky is blue and water is wet" interaction is something I'd get bored with a lot quicker, but in this case there is something personal at stake:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z3MQNOkKIFM/UjGn-qb5VsI/AAAAAAAAA_k/jiadIWb1us4/s400/wally.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z3MQNOkKIFM/UjGn-qb5VsI/AAAAAAAAA_k/jiadIWb1us4/s1600/wally.jpg)See the crosses next to the routes? 1 cross is "quite like to climb it" 2 crosses is "definitely want to climb it"

Having climbed Wally 3 a couple of years ago, I looked a few metres to the right, saw Wally 2, got inspired and fully intended to lead it at some point. Of course I kinda got a bit distracted with going to Skye and Glen Nevis and Creag Dubh and Dunkeld and the Aberdeen coast and Caithness and Gairloch and Reiff and Ardmair and Sheigra and Orkney and somehow didn't retain such a devoted focus on Central Belt quarries, preferring to leave them for a shorter day at some unspecified time in the future (having no idea there was a retro-bolting threat).

Then it's retro-bolted, then my inspiration is denied, then I look closer at the issues at stake and responses presented, and start to take the issue a lot more seriously - because it's not just about my personal inspirations, it's about the whole issue of retro-bolting and sport impinging on trad - and get involved in the "discussion". I'd never been convinced by the "thin end of the wedge" argument, but here it was, actually occurring, getting incrementally thicker as the bolts spread from new sport routes to "dirty" trad routes to "bold" trad routes, to things I wanted to fucking CLIMB.

And therein lies what I am posting about, the dichotomy. Climbing, the activity and the community, the purity of the rock and the incomprehensibility of some of the people.

Being involved in this furore has been often a fairly NEGATIVE experience. I have been arguing vigorously, partly because I strongly believe in the principles I am standing up for, and partly because, of course, SOMEONE IS WRONG ON THE INTERNET. Quite a lot of people are wrong actually, but the negativity doesn't come from that alone - because some of the "other side" are engaging in intelligent and balanced debate - but from related nonsense, such as:

All of this of course only serves to weaken the pro-retro-bolting case, and make me more determined to persist against it, and more hostile to some of the people involved. Having one's determination strengthened is good, but not when it's catalysed by negativity - I feel like Ken bloody Wilson, but not even I am quite *that* belligerent. Then again, there is progress, with one route repaired and two to go.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cosf2_0o_jA/UjDwUNZDIlI/AAAAAAAAA_E/sWv2Ry4c7kU/s400/fiend_petti4.jpg)  (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cosf2_0o_jA/UjDwUNZDIlI/AAAAAAAAA_E/sWv2Ry4c7kU/s1600/fiend_petti4.jpg)A positive result after some negative interactions

At the same time I have been fortunate enough to get out a fair bit to a variety of crags and had POSITIVE experiences of hanging out with some cool people (a mix of relaxed climbers and hardcore veterans, all of whom - PJ, GR, NM, TF, RD, IS, AM - acknowledge the pressures of sport climbing popularity whilst rejecting uncontested retro-bolting) and simply climbing at:


(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GQ2yVtCxb4Y/UjDwu0nGtMI/AAAAAAAAA_U/cTkmuyoLL6g/s400/fiend_petti2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GQ2yVtCxb4Y/UjDwu0nGtMI/AAAAAAAAA_U/cTkmuyoLL6g/s1600/fiend_petti2.jpg)A purely positive experience of a cool trad route

And that is something that gets lost in this. We're all climbers, doing something we love - well, I bloody well hope so, *I* certainly am. I don't want to argue, I don't want to see routes trashed, I don't want any of the hostile bullshit. I just want to keep enjoying climbing....but then again that is why I'm arguing, I'm arguing for that positive experience of climbing as it now stands in Scotland and the UK, without it getting spoilt by changing unduly without balance and perspective.

Off to Ratho wall soon, to go training...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Challenge #7 - Lady Charlotte.
Post by: comPiler on September 20, 2013, 01:00:09 am
Challenge #7 - Lady Charlotte. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/09/challenge-7-lady-charlotte.html)
19 September 2013, 9:23 pm



Well I seem to have managed another route that is A Fairly Big Deal for me. Not quite sure how that happened but it might be something to do with a bit of training, a lot of syke, and a fair amount of good conditions. I'd been on Lady Charlotte before, climbed up a few moves in too hot weather, looked around and thought "fuck me I can't find any gear here, how on earth can I continue up steep sweaty terrain with god knows if there's any protection coming up" and downclimbed hastily.

This time I climbed up a few moves in much fresher weather, looked around and thought "wow I've found a great tricam slot and an okay RP slot and the holds are good enough to move up a bit and fiddle some more in". So I did. And to be honest, I did a lot of dicking around to get the route done. Up and down 4 times - once ropeless to check out the gear, once to get the tricam in and move up further to a wire and tiny cam, once more to get to the jugs at the top of the groove and a good cam and peenut (oh and stop reading if you don't want gear beta), once more to get stood on the so-called ledge (it isn't) on top of those jugs and a crucial cam and realise the wall to the break is quite sketchy and blind and come down once more and give Adam a break from belaying as he goes for a burn on Silk Purse and does it with two falls including onsighting the top groove. I can only dream of such stamina so I need all this dicking around on LC to get warmed up, pumped up, fiddle in all the "it only appears when it's by your face" gear and only then do I realise I have to fucking go for it.

So I do.

And after all the rather dissatisfying up-and-downing, it is great. Great wall climbing, committing moves, pumpy, enough decent gear, cool features to go for. I get to the top rest ledge - effectively the end of LC itself - and try to balance my wariness of the "E3 5c" top crack with my impatient desire to keep fucking going for it. Somehow I get a burst of confidence and blast into the crack, the crack that isn't a crack with gear that isn't gear. I get into the final micro-niche with one tiny cam 2m below my feet and in a blaze of pumped summit fever top out directly over the crag top.....except it's a rounded boulder covered in pine needles and fading into sloping heather. Fuck FUCK FUCK. Fiddle in a cam cross-handed and it falls out as I clip it. If I fell now I'd blow the tiny cam but hopefully not the ledge-height wires and still end up below the half-height break. Somehow I squirm back into the niche, squeak and squeal a cam into a loose vibrating plate, and look 1m left to the real topout, maybe a 4b move on good rock but it feels like the living end.

My lungs were still aching on the drive home.

Abseiling down this "classic wall climb", it overhangs by at least 3m in 30m.

Hmmmm.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Zubs-mk61Rs/UjtqESsJTzI/AAAAAAAAA_8/mN9HdKo7t00/s400/fiend_lc1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Zubs-mk61Rs/UjtqESsJTzI/AAAAAAAAA_8/mN9HdKo7t00/s1600/fiend_lc1.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qFj3OCWGTwc/UjtqEuj0TqI/AAAAAAAABAA/tKPdofJ_LsM/s400/fiend_lc2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qFj3OCWGTwc/UjtqEuj0TqI/AAAAAAAABAA/tKPdofJ_LsM/s1600/fiend_lc2.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Egoe4kAATd4/UjtqE54GyuI/AAAAAAAABAE/g4MqAvRYpmY/s400/fiend_lc3.jpg)  (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Egoe4kAATd4/UjtqE54GyuI/AAAAAAAABAE/g4MqAvRYpmY/s1600/fiend_lc3.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Cleaning / Climbing / Calm / Cold / Condensation / Cocaine
Post by: comPiler on September 24, 2013, 01:00:10 pm
Cleaning / Climbing / Calm / Cold / Condensation / Cocaine (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/09/cleaning-climbing-calm-cold.html)
24 September 2013, 9:40 am



Cleaning.

I went back to Cambusbarron briefly the other week with both relaxation and inspiration in mind. After Purrblind Doomster there were other challenges, but less pressure. Much less pressure with the time scale too, so I arrived early and did a bit of cleaning. Nothing too exciting but in light of recent talk about looking after Central Belt crags a bit better to avoid accusations of neglect and temptations of retrobolting, I felt like putting a bit of effort in. Litter picking, branch sawing, fern removing and boulder brushing.

Climbing.

I didn't do anything to the routes as most of the good hard ones are in decent nick, or maybe that's just because they're steep enough to stay perma-chalked?? There was one 2 starred route, Economy Drive that I wanted to try and needed a clean, but Geek was happy to scrub that one off for me as I'd rather be climbing it - that's part of the reason I don't get round to cleaning routes I'm still genuinely interested in climbing, because I'm genuinely interested in the onsight journey.

Calm.

The journey on this particular route turned out to be a fairly interesting one. Freshly cleaned, it looked "reasonable", Geek said it should be "reasonable" (yeah, I should know by now!!), so I treated it as reasonable....initially. Hard moves off the deck leading into more hard moves above those leading into a rest ledge and adequate gear before more hard moves to a pod. So far so good. Then I got to the hard bit.... Standing in the pod and progressing upwards was looking considerably less likely than getting shut down by a total sandbag. Feeling around on slippery sidepulls and fiddly footholds, I looked failure in the face and, unusually, calmly accepted it - I wasn't going to get up this route, so with fine protection, I might as well fail going upwards rather than downwards. Each move I planned to fall off, and when I somehow didn't, I applied the same resignation to the following move, until, bizarrely, I was near the top. The final moves had been heavily cleaned and I was warned "just take care with the rock, but you'll be fine, it's about Hard Severe here". One more final powerful crux had me lunging for blocks and hauling myself into surprised success. After that I couldn't face any more dolerite sidepulls so left any other routes for another time and had a blast repeating Spanking The Monkey with much slithering and laughing all round.

Cold.

Throughout the recent weeks, I've been aided and abetted by good conditions (as well as syked trad partners). The weather has cooled down nicely and although I'm still busting out the gut, it's less essential and more about stacking every odd in my favour. But of course it's going to get cooler....and colder. With many inspirations still to go and the season ticking away, I am a bit concerned how to deal with the cold, not whilst climbing but just at the crag. I'm usually reasonably prepared but I think I need to optimise things better....maybe more fleecey layers....over-trousers....hip-flask?? I certainly needed something at the weekend. Down with PJ at Scimitar Ridge, doing a pair of funky bold slabs that took a lot of time and a lot of fiddling in RPs and C3s. It was still and muggy on the walk-in and I thought down at the crag, a windsmock, beanie and snood would be enough. It wasn't. 4 hours later in a hot shower I defrosted. Brrrr. Two nice routes though.

Condensation.

Despite a cold, grey, gloomy day, with intermittent spots of rain and the ubiqituous sea-spray, conditions at Scimitar Ridge were surprisingly good, once past a slightly greasy start the smooth granite was in fine nick. So obviously the next day at Rosehearty, with clear skies, dry warm air, glorious sunshine and a brisk westerly raking on the crag, it was going to be mint conditions all day, right?? WRONG. Once again the North East coast is as contrary and fickle as it can be, and a quick recce of the sea walls saw them dripping in condensation. How. Why. WTF. I had a mini-sulk solely because I could see the Rosey season coming to an imminent end as the sun-drying hours were rapidly diminishing. But as a Rosey virgin, Brad was still optimistic and also had the stylish slabs to try, so we got on those at least, and he ninjaed his way up a couple of fine routes. Lo and behold, back on the sea walls with a few hours left, the sun was working it's magic, transforming dark grey rock into silver, damp smudges into enticing chalk....

Cocaine.

(aka Challenge #8) Even dry, the sea walls are steep, as steep as the slabs are slabby, as steep as a really fucking steep thing. I was prepared for that and battled through a fair good warm-up. Brad almost battled through his route but some sustained slab numbers had taken their toll and he wanted to show me how a proper sulk was done. Once the dust had settled, I had enough time to try a bit of Cocaine, the closest I'll come to any drug but who needs it when you have climbing this good...! Thankfully as the warm sun was getting lower, I had managed to hit a sweet spot with the rock fully dry but the late afternoon cooling down, and did the route with reasonable confidence and little drama. In fact it would have been pretty boring to watch me squatted on the overhung rest ledge for ages, but hell it worked and it's nice to feel "okay" on such terrain. Hopefully I'll have another few weeks to put that into action...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Challenge #9 & #10 - Neart Nan Gaidheal & Wall Of Flame.
Post by: comPiler on September 29, 2013, 07:00:18 pm
Challenge #9 & #10 - Neart Nan Gaidheal & Wall Of Flame. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/09/challenge-9-10-neart-nan-gaidheal-wall.html)
29 September 2013, 3:03 pm



God I fucking love the North West. Doing cool and fascinating challenges around the rest of Scotland is all very well and rewarding, but doing them in such a special place has a whole different vibe. For a start it's a bit harder to get focused when you're gazing over Ardmair or Diabeg bays in a mellow autumn sunshine....but then the rock and climbing are so good you just have to...

Out of the many stunning areas along the coastline, the bay around Ardmair may or may not be the most delightful. The austere pebble beach arcs elegantly around from the fun bouldering area, leading the eye past the glittering sea and islands to the soaring ridge of Ben Mor Coigach, forming a mesmerising frame for the coastal beauty. But enough of that hippy bollox, Ardmair would be a brilliant crag in an urban quarry, let alone the serene valley hanging above the bay. It's gritstone with jugs, jams, usually great gear, and a seemingly limitless supply of fine climbing. This time I eschewed the previous mileage and focused on one stunning route - Neart Nan Gaidheal.

I'd got familiar with and inspired by the Beast Buttress back in 2010 - On The Western Skyline and Unleash The Beast both being great routes and amenable enough to want to up the ante a grade with NNG....once I was fit, confident, and determined enough. Actually, it's upping the ante a grade and a bit more - NNG is supposed to be low in the grade (which it may be, if one cares), but nowhere near as much as OTWS which is generally relaxing throughout, nor especially UTB which whilst adequately brutal is tamed by easy, perfect protection and useful jams. So NNG feels pretty proper compared to those - whilst it's not technically hard, it's sheer, continuous, and gives plenty of escalating pump through reasonable sidepulls with unhelpful footholds, especially while placing the somewhat sketchy gear in the upper half. I had warmed up, chilled out, recovered from a long drive from Glasgow and an early coffee, waited until it was in the perfect evening shade, and had enough....something to move up when pumped rather than down or off.

Out of the many stunning areas along the coastline, the bay around Diabeg may or may not be the most delightful. Blah blah peninsula blah quaint harbour ruined boat blah stunning outlook to Skye and even the Uists. Suffice to say Diabeg is almost as good as Ardmair and has the added bonus of SLABS. After last weekend's mixing and matching of Scimitar and Rosey slabs with the opposing Rosey steepness, I had got plenty of syke for Wall Of Flame, just about enough to compensate for the sunny, still, but ultimately tolerable weather. There was one slight issue, my partner Steve (from the mighty Far North metropolis of Bettyhill) had a good time at Ardmair but not got on with seconding an E2 5c warm-up. Of course I'm very happy to abseil to strip gear and outwit all of that "Uh I don't know if we should climb together cos I don't climb as hard as you" bollox, but Wall Of Flame has two pitches, and although the last one is only a minor variant on Northumberland Wall, it's still part of the experience. So....give up and abandon it? Force Steve to haul his way up? Bollox to that. A cunning plan is needed.

Firstly we went to Aztec Tower for him to do a couple of leads on this pleasant crag with funky rock. This left us unavoidably close to Gairloch where the recently refurbished harbour cafe needed to be tested to confirm the coffee is indeed very good these days. Then cruise to Diabeg: I lead P1 of WOF, pull the ropes and chuck them down and Steve seconds P1 of The Black Streak with his rack. I lead P2 of WOF and abseil straight back down to the belay. Steve then leads P2 of TBS and does the same because I'm too chilled and my feet are too sore to follow (despite even more cunning putting voltarol on my toes in advance!), and is mightly chuffed with a fine pitch at his level (and effectively ticking TBS), I abseil down WOF P1 to get out all sketchy micro-gear, he follows down as the midges come out, we congratulate ourselves on a slick operation, I'm back in Glasgow by 11 and he's back in a pub in Bettyhill at 9:30. Ta da! And of course, Wall Of Flame is bloody brilliant, I feel well warmed up after the previous weekend's slabs, but it is still intricate and intense with a greatly committing crux, all on perfect crisp rock.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Zmori4C7QwI/Ukg987TjN6I/AAAAAAAABAg/D8Xnh9e5hu8/s400/fiend_flame.jpg)  (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Zmori4C7QwI/Ukg987TjN6I/AAAAAAAABAg/D8Xnh9e5hu8/s1600/fiend_flame.jpg)

 (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o3sejQ9NjrA/Ukg98cix3BI/AAAAAAAABAc/XiGPTb1i5wE/s400/aurevoirdiabeg.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o3sejQ9NjrA/Ukg98cix3BI/AAAAAAAABAc/XiGPTb1i5wE/s1600/aurevoirdiabeg.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: DENIED.
Post by: comPiler on October 04, 2013, 01:00:22 am
DENIED. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/10/denied.html)
3 October 2013, 9:48 pm



8:30am, Erskine Bridge roadworks traffic jam, en-route to Glen Nevis and super-syked for Triode or On Some Beach. Except the sun is out, it's already 15'C, and the forecast is for more sunshine and only a light Easterly breeze at Fort William, that will leave the relevant buttresses sheltered and baking. Balls. Wish I'd suggested Creag Dubh or somewhere else instead. Ah well...

4:30pm, Nameless Buttress in Glen Nevis, and super-syked for Triode. Except any trace of warmth is disappearing behind the clouds, the "light Easterly breeze" is a gale howling down the valley and right onto the buttress. I nearly got blown off the top of my warm-up Cathode Smiles (a fine route and a total sandbag with sustained 5b/c a long way above the gear to finish). I take off my belay garb of t-shirt, hoodie, downie, snood, gloves and two beanies, keep the obligatory vest and windproof, and step on the rock. Partway up the lower wall, I pause for a very long time - I am so inspired, I so desire to commit to the next moves and engage with this route. The rock feels great under my fingers, but the tsunami of wind is too much. Balls. I reverse down and we retreat down the horrendously steep walk-in to lower buttresses. Ah well...

I walk away with empty hands and a head full of excitement. I've been to Glen Nevis many times and still not quite done the most inspiring lines I want to. Hell, I've walked away from Wave Buttress 3 times - twice too hot, once wrong shoes. I don't want to walk away too many more times....so the Glen will be perhaps my main focus for Autumn. All I'm after are a few routes on a few buttresses. Mostly sunny, quick drying, various orientations to catch the breeze and sun at different times. Easily combined with other buttresses so whichever partners I'm with can be well sated. Doable in a day trip from Glasgow, or easy hostels for overnight. What could possibly go wrong??

Oh yeah, it's the wettest place on Earth. I'm sure there are locations under the ocean that have more dry days than Fort William. Pffffffffft.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Challenge #11 & #12: Colder Than A Hooker's Heart and The Final Solution
Post by: comPiler on October 07, 2013, 07:00:08 pm
Challenge #11 & #12: Colder Than A Hooker's Heart and The Final Solution (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/10/challenge-11-12-colder-than-hookers.html)
7 October 2013, 1:46 pm



That was something I put on to clear my mind in the car, and so my soundtrack to the day, until I started climbing that is... God knows I needed my mind clearing as I'd been thinking too much about these two routes on and off for two days. Mileage previously, Ratho training especially on crimps, rest days and gentle runs...trying to stack all the odds and attain some calmness through that.

 Out of all the routes on my ticklist, these two had kept swirling around my mind because, unlike any others, they are actually dangerous in places, albeit easy places, but I didn't know that until I actually did them! I first went to Creag Dubh in 2010, did Over The Hill and The Fuhrer amongst others, really enjoyed the steady, positive, distinctly bold style of climbing, and lusted after slightly harder routes on the crag. But with those harder routes there's more chance of not walking away....so I spent several trips this year walking away. Last time I started up the first easy bit of Hooker's but having to chalk on every move, I knew I couldn't risk continuing.

This time the weather had cooler down a lot - it was still strangely warm, but also dry and fresh. I climbed up exactly the same start as before and got a few holds into the tricky bit before realising it....and knew I was going to continue. I reversed down after this warm-up, let my skin cool down, watched as more thoughts started to creep into my mind, and stepped back onto the rock before they could. Climbed the route, abseiled down and did the same with TFS. As simple as that, no fuss, no drama - I think I'd used it all up in previous imaginings. It was a great pleasure not just to be climbing intimidating routes, but to be climbing them calmly enough to genuinely enjoy them almost all the way. There was one short section getting into the niche on TFS where I was a bit sloppy with my feet....2m of dissatisfaction in 90m total of good climbing, I'll take that!

I walked away from the crag elated but also a little sad that I don't have much more I want to do at this brilliant wall climbing venue....but then I was drinking my coffee this morning and pondering....Harder Than Your Husband starts up TFS and I know that and apparently there is a bit of gear on it and if I don't like it I can just do TFS again and....oh....maybe I will be back ;)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on October 07, 2013, 07:07:58 pm
Blog compiler doesn't seem to get Youtube videos, so this is the soundtrack referred to at the start:

Current Value - Fear | HD (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wuI0ilGup-w#ws)
Title: Coffee on the go.
Post by: comPiler on October 09, 2013, 01:00:15 pm
Coffee on the go. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/10/coffee-on-go.html)
9 October 2013, 10:36 am



Petrol station / take out coffee review:

Starbucks: Arsebucks. Weak, bland rubbish that somehow perfectly captures the authentic taste of instant coffee made with brine. A horrible, embarassing fate for a coffee bean.

Verdict: A disgrace to coffee.

McDonalds: Coffee quality that truly matches the McBarrista quality. The quintessential "hot milkshake with a coffee bean at the bottom" that ensures a better coffee experience would be had licking the inside of Costa's bins.

Verdict: Avoid like the plague it is.

Wild Bean: Wild as in "Stig of the DUMP" not wild like a lion running across the Kenyan savannah. Harsh, ugly pointless coffee from beans that are burnt to a cinder for that essential bitterness.

Verdict: Drink out of the toilet instead.

Coffee For Life: Coffee for giving up on life. The empty hollow taste of cheap milk powder and boiling water is entirely unspoilt by the lone coffee bean or two, and only enhanced by woody notes as the cardboard cup leaks in.

Verdict: Unspeakably vile.

Costa: Choose a regular cappucino. Place the cup under for all the coffee shot, then move to get only half the milk (or less). Reload for extra shots if needed. Hey presto, actual good coffee from a machine - tried and tested several times

Verdict: Proper coffee with a proper taste, just keep the milk halved.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: C#-13-14-15: On The Beach, Triode, Risque Grapefruit.
Post by: comPiler on October 15, 2013, 01:00:17 pm
C#-13-14-15: On The Beach, Triode, Risque Grapefruit. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/10/13-14-15-on-beach-triode-risque.html)
15 October 2013, 10:29 am



Finally it happened - sooner than expected this autumn, but a long time after the first inspiration back in early 2010 and trying to get everything right ever since. The mythical weekend in Glen Nevis when I'm climbing well, know what I want to do, am well prepared, and the weather....well the weather started off at 0'c and a thick frost in the morning, to 12'c t-shirt sunshine, with a cool north easterly casually licking around the crags. Slightly warm, but 90% perfect will do. And so I got to do yet more big, brilliant inspirations, climbs of desire that went a bit like this:

On The Beach: Maybe the biggest one in classic status? 4th time lucky going up to Wave Buttress to do it. Despite the challenge I felt fairly comfortable about the style of the route - off vertical, reasonably protected crack in the lower half, big runouts above some protection in the upper half. Well that confidence came back to bite me on the arse: The runout was as big as anticipated....but the holds weren't! Fantasies of a positive crimpy slab were washed away in a runnel full of rounded side-pulls and bridging smeary knobbles - all above 2 RPs, of course. It wasn't desperate but after several metres of continuously precarious climbing I was shuddering with relief by the time I got to easy ground. The obligatory whisky later on was less to celebrate and more to calm my nerves!

Triode: Only 3rd time lucky for this one. Well the first visit I really wasn't going to get on it, but I got syked enough just doing Diode next to it. Similarly to OTB, this involves thin slab moves with a large runout from the gear. The crucial difference being that both the gear and holds are more obvious - and the latter are clearcut and positive. Which meant that instead of gibbering my way up, I managed to relax, work out the technicality of the crux, and genuinely enjoy some great slab moves. Less fear and more FUN.

Risque Grapefruit: Almost an afterthought and potentially an epitaph. Surprisingly enough this was by far the most serious route of the lot, with a 6m groundfall potential off the first crux and a 16m groundfall potential off the second. The former I got involved with almost too quickly to realise it and I sketched around the corner to the lone gear slot that pointlessly protects a load of easy moves in the middle. The latter I had plenty of time to contemplate and ask myself "how much do I want this?" Enough to pull on some small crimps, smear on some knobbles and lurch over into a blind mossy scoop - but I'm not sure if that was the right answer?? I could do it, I did it, I liked the route overall, but maybe a little bit too much genuine risk.

A weekend of fear, fascination, and fun then...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Grades grades grades.
Post by: comPiler on October 17, 2013, 01:00:18 pm
Grades grades grades. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/10/grades-grades-grades.html)
17 October 2013, 11:48 am



"In reply to Fiend:
Have you noticed that a  lot of people don't agree with your totally objective and correct views on  grades? What do you make of that?"


What do I make of that?? They are fucking imbeciles a bit mistaken of course (barring the few occasions where I am either trolling or speculating - and if you don't have the brains to work those out you don't have the brains to be discussing grades. Nor reading this blog, actually.).

Funny how some people can get so wound up about grades. Even leaving aside the desperate scrabbling of the ego and it's hollow numerical attainments (which, for this issue alone, is fair enough to leave aside as people's wrongness does go both ways, either side of a route's grade), people seem so perculiarly attached to a number. I suspect this is where the antagonism comes from, having to give up pre-conceptions and entrenched viewpoints, the painful wrenching into reality as the objective truth of a grade is revealed and reiterated.

And thus people shoot the messenger. I, like others, don't have any special views or opinions on grades. I don't create them or set them in stone. I merely recognise their objective truth and the reasoning behind them, and pass that on to others where needed (or where I really want to stick my fucking oar in and see what happens).

For therein lies the hardest truth about trad grades:

Grades are not a matter of subjective opinion, they are a matter of objective fact.

If people accepted that it would make their lives a little bit easier. And mine too. This is for trad grades of course, technical/sport/bouldering grades are based less on the unchangeable rock and are more influenced by morphological factors, thus necessarily a bit vaguer. Of course like the factual nature of grades themselves, the factual nature of grading is more acceptable if it is backed up with reasoning. Thus:

1.  

The adjectival trad grade is made up of various factors:


These are a matter of FACT. A piece of protection will either exist or it won't - and thus contribute to the grade. The rock will either be solid or it won't - and thus contribute to the grade. The line will either be simple and obvious or will be obscure and devious - and thus contribute to the grade.

No amount of bleating, whining and handbag twirling will change whether a route is consistently overhanging by a certain degree or has a red camalot at the crux or has a resting jam to fend off the pump or whatever. The rock isn't going to change to reflect what grade people might want to apply to it, so the grade has to reflect the rock and the route. Although grades are a human construct and thus might seem to be prey to human fallibility, they are a piece of information that describes the rock, summarises what actually exists on it, and that is a truth as hard as the rock itself (does that mean grades at Gogarth/Lleyn/North Devon should be squishier to match the rock there?? Food for thought.)

2.

The adjectival trad grade of any given route fits in to an overall system and progression of grades.

E - M - D - VD - HVD - MS - S - HS - MVS - VS - HVS - E0(MES) - E1 - E2 - E3 - E4 - E5 - E6 - E7 - E8 - E9 - E10 - Ewe'llrepeattheseandmakelotsofsubtlecommentsabouthowtheyareeasierthanotherroutesbutbesopoliticallycorrectwe'llrefusetoactuallycorrectthegrades

Unsurprisingly whether it is a purely linear system with equal spacings or not (more equal with E0 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=63) of course), it is a system of progression. Governed by the factual factors above, a harder route will be given a higher grade, an easier route will be given an easier grade within the system and in comparison to other routes in the system. Obviously the system has somewhat bastardised origins, obviously it is an aesthetic mish-mash (which is entirely irrelevant, you could replace the alphanumerical grades with straight numbers or roman numerals or increasingly sized fruit for all it matters), obviously there is a certain vagueness due to comparing apples and oranges, but the system is established and it works.

Thus, routes have their place in the grading system, and if you try to fuck with the truth of their grades then either the result will be clearly farcical OR you'll have to regrade so many accepted routes and completely break the system. If route X and route Y have a similar angle and technicality of climbing, but route X is shorter, has obvious and perfect protection, and resting jams, compared to route Y which is longer, has fiddly gear, and no rests, then route Y is simply higher up the grade system. Try to change the grade of either and you'll not only have to change the grade of the other, but all the nearby routes that surround it in the grading system. If route A has one technical move, good rests, and a bit of steepness next to easy gear and route B has two harder moves in much steeper terrain, with no rests and slightly spaced gear, route B is simply higher up the grade system and again trying to interfere with that direct comparison will change everything around it.

Reject the correctness of some grades and you reject the entire comparative and progressive grading system and you might as well not bother trying to convey and information with grades at all. Of course people could come out with spurious waffle such as "but it's just a matter of opinion the grades of route X and route B (maybe seasoned with macho posturing for extra self-sabotage), but then they can get swiftly referred back to point 1. - the system is built on facts.

Accept those facts and you will have more accurate grades, and will be a happier and more peaceful climber - fact*

(*N.B. this fact alone might be complete bollox)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Scottish Bouldering Favourites.
Post by: comPiler on October 20, 2013, 01:00:24 am
Scottish Bouldering Favourites. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/10/scottish-bouldering-favourites.html)
19 October 2013, 9:06 pm



Phil Jack asked me to list them so here they are. This is a list of personal favourites at a grade range I tend to enjoy most,  although there might be a high correlation with "personal favourite" and "pure fantastic". They are all pretty well acknowledged as great problems, and I've highlighted my most favourite with a star, some of these are properly fucking amazing although I did struggle to draw the line so have been quite strict.

The list varies a lot from single mega-problems with little else in the area, to a cluster of gems close together, to areas where I really liked one or two problems but there's a fine circuit to go at. A few of them are my own problems because they are good, any complaints about that BITE ME. Some of these are off the beaten track and off the guidebook radar and it's up to the reader to find them, although I have included a couple of nice problems at Portlethen and a few from Dumby even though most boulderers visit those areas 90% of the time (the other 10% of the time spent trying Malc's Arete @ Torridon).

I've included any video clips I've taken to show the aesthetics of the line, fat weak midget beta, and occasionally some other problems in the area. Obviously there's loads of classics I haven't done and lots of areas  I've been to that are good but didn't stand out in particular. The main advice is go EXPLORE. And take wellies.

North West:

Romancing The Stone (https://vimeo.com/62437955) V6 * (Reiff) - techy wall - superbly tentative.

Salt Pans (https://vimeo.com/62437955) V5 (Reiff) - techy arete - fine climbing.

Haven (https://vimeo.com/52840929) V5 * (RITW) - techy wall - subtle and delightful.

Watch Your Back V4 (Ardmair) - roof - cool tricky roof fun.

Slipstones Thing (https://vimeo.com/17057895) V4 (Torridon) - techy wall - precarious and balancy.

Squelch (https://vimeo.com/52809241) V5 (Torridon) - steep prow - proud line with butch climbing.

A Long Winning Streak (https://vimeo.com/52840929) V5 * (Inchbae) - steep slab - brilliantly thin and balancy.

Colonel Mustard (https://vimeo.com/31719481) V3 (Inchbae) - arete - classic pure arete climbing.

Good Ass (https://vimeo.com/47999687) V4 (Kishorn) - techy wall - good fun on good features

North East / North Central:

Slap And Tickle V5 (Porty) - steep arete - sharp but a good line.

The Prow V4 (Porty) - steep arete - the other good line at Porty.

Yukon Afternoon (https://vimeo.com/20441248) V4 (Clash) - groove/bulge -  varied and exciting.

Clash Arete (https://vimeo.com/21263453) V7 * (Clash) - crimpy arete - fierce and subtle at the same time.

Outstanding (https://vimeo.com/20719483) V4 (Ruthven) - overhanging wall - burly fun.

Razor's Edge (https://vimeo.com/20719483) V6 * (Ruthven) - techy arete - excellent and elegant.

The Dude (https://vimeo.com/59853094) V6 (Ruthven) - overhanging wall - more burly fun.

The Slippery Slope (https://vimeo.com/59853094) V5 (Ruthven) - bulge - disarming friction climbing.

Brin Done Before (https://vimeo.com/60642373) V5 * (Brin) - roof - high, wild and utterly inspiring.

Excitement In The Buoys (https://vimeo.com/58181987) V6 (Farr) - slopey arete - frictional and tenacious.

Right Arete SS  (https://vimeo.com/58181987)V4 (Farr) - arete - lovely steady slopey climbing.

Forever Unfulfilled (https://vimeo.com/58181987) V4 (Farr) - steep slab - thin and delicate on ace rock.

Central West:

Gale Force (https://vimeo.com/58823144) V7 * (Laggan)  - arete - the best line and problem in Scotland? World class.

Black Orc (https://vimeo.com/36048401) V6 * (Glen Nevis) - bulge/mantle - sculptural and brutal. Skin graft needed.

Thousand Year Egg (https://vimeo.com/36072419) V4 (Glen Nevis) - wall - delicate pull-over on nice rock

Bear Island (https://vimeo.com/31841382) V3 (Glen Nevis) - wall/groove - cool fun on nice features.

The Wall V5 (Glen Nevis) - techy wall - excellent committing climbing.

Pump Up The Jam (https://vimeo.com/43146342) V5 * (Skye) - roof crack - the other best line and problem in Scotland? Best handjamming ever.

Diesel Canary (https://vimeo.com/43817364) V5 (Glen Coe) - steep wall - cool wall cranking.

Helipad (https://vimeo.com/43817364) V4 (Glen Coe) - steep wall -  cool wall cranking.

Various problems at Loch Buie (Mull) - lovely spot, cool bouldering, just go.

Central:

Le Toit Du Col Du Mouton (https://vimeo.com/60063656) V6 * (Glen Clova) - roof - awesome and improbable roof climbing.

Sheep Pen Groove (https://vimeo.com/54563778) V4 (Glen Clova) - groove - bizarre technical and precarious.

Peel Sessions (https://vimeo.com/13155214) V4 (Glen Clova) - wall - cool crimpy cranky wall.

Jawa V4 (https://vimeo.com/17244193) (Loch Katrine)  - steep slab - pure and delicate.

Tourist Trap (https://vimeo.com/17244193) V4 (Loch Katrine) - steep arete -  good cranky arete.

The Nose (https://vimeo.com/17244193) V4 (Loch Katrine) - prow - nice steep climbing.

Powerhouse (https://vimeo.com/20576038) V6 (Loch Sloy) - bulging arete - technical and tensiony.

The Economist  (https://vimeo.com/20576038)V5 (Loch Sloy) - steep wall - good committing cranking.

The Persuader (https://vimeo.com/16703507) V4 (Glen Croe) - steep arete - burly but aesthetic.

Butterboy (https://vimeo.com/12119332) V4 (Glen Croe) - overhang - good fun jug yarding.

Snapster (https://vimeo.com/32159237) V3 (Glen Croe) - wall - excellent delicate crimping.

The Nose (https://vimeo.com/32159237) V4 (Glen Croe) - roof arete -  thoughtful burly climbing in a fine situation.

Autumn Arete (https://vimeo.com/60860429) V6 * (Achray) - steep prow - brilliantly sustained and powerful climbing.

Pyramid Lip (https://vimeo.com/61169307) V5 * (Glen Ogle) - roof lip - irresistable and great fun problem, hernia-inducing.

White Matter (https://vimeo.com/61798963) V6 (St Brides) - steep wall - sharp but excellent and powerful cranking.

Lowland:

Monkey Spanking (https://vimeo.com/9604349) V8 (Camby) - pure steep arete - amazingly pure line with very hard holdless climbing.

Spanking The Monkey (https://vimeo.com/9604305) V6 * (Camby) - pure slab arete -  highly aesthetic and hilarious sketching up a slab.

LDV (https://vimeo.com/61888882) V3 (Camby) - pure slab arete - the easier version but still great fun.

Retroclaim (https://vimeo.com/18060522) V6 (Rankin Boulder) - bulging arete - powerful and diverse prow.

Bowfinger (https://vimeo.com/15124975) V6 (Garheugh) - slab/wall - thin and technical.

Stretch Armstrong (https://vimeo.com/57807434) V6 (Garheugh) - bulging prow - excellent fun on cool features.

Big Growly Thing (https://vimeo.com/60191282) V5 (Garheugh) - bulging prow - burly and bonkers.

Blue Meanie, Mestizo, Gorilla, Slap Happy (https://vimeo.com/3372434), Mugsy (https://vimeo.com/3372661) (Dumby) - all good.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Learning.
Post by: comPiler on October 22, 2013, 01:00:11 pm
Learning. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/10/learning.html)
22 October 2013, 10:27 am



Life is a learning process, a wise woman once said. Except maybe that woman hadn't learned from her mistakes, because a few years later she birthed my younger brother too ;). Still she is ace and wise enough and the principle of learning still stands. This year I have climbed the best I ever have, have climbed amazing and inspiring routes, and got into a state of confidence and happiness with my climbing that I always aspire to be in but that is often difficult to reach. I don't expect this state to last but want to be able to regain it, so I want to know:

"What can I learn from this?? How have I got into this state?? How could I replicate it in future??"


Pondering on this further I have come up with a neat 10 11 12 factors. I've tried to make these as clear as I can (for my own benefit!) but have found them a bit tricky to write about. Hopefully it makes sense...

[Edit: I have gone through my logbook for this year and tried to work  out how each day fitted in with these factors or any others, and on  reflection it's probably 90% due to Falling Practice......]

Falling practice:

By far the most important factor - in fact more important than ALL the other factors put together, so at least 50% of what helped me. Although I had done it sporadically during many previous wall sessions, this year was the first time that I have done it every time. Every wall session without exception I have done between 3 and 12 practise falls, some small, some larger, some very hard to do, some feeling very natural. Sometimes during the summer I was feeling in good climbing fitness but still wanted to visit the wall just to practise falls. Simply put, this worked. Slapping for a hold with a bolt below my feet on The One And Only at Brin Rock, looking at a cluster of okay gear on Neart Nan Gaidheal at Ardmair and knowing I'd be okay if I fell so climbing through the pump instead of backing off it.

In the future, keep doing falling practice ALL the time, building up if necessary.

Climbing quickly:

This pretty much derives  from the confidence gained from falling practise. With the confidence to  press on and risk falling off, I've started to climb quickly through  difficult sections, through the pump, through poor holds and positions  to gain respite. This has compensated for my natural stamina and lack of  faffing and has been a positive approach that has almost invariably  worked - often by ensuring I get committed which is something I can be  inhibited about but once committed I can usually cope with the actual  climbing.

In the future, try to keep aware how well this can work, although falling practice is a pre-requisite.

Uncluttered focus:

I.e. If I'm intending to do specific challenges, focusing on those challenges during a day or trip, and not getting distracted with mileage or other routes or anything other than the minimum necessary warming up. This differentiates between exploratory or mileage trips where I want to do plenty of routes, and challenge trips where I might only do one or two routes in a day. Narrowing my focus enabled me to have a clearer and more relaxed mind with more time to deal with the challenges presented.

In the future, be clear if I want mileage/exploration days or challenge days, and have a clear focus to avoid one impinging on the other.

Good conditions:

I climbed well at Easter and early spring when it was fresh but not too cold. I climbed rubbish in summer when it was either too hot, too humid, or sometimes too windy. I climbed well again in autumn when it had cooled down and was still dry. One day backing off Colder Than A Hooker's Heart at Creag Dubh because I was having to chalk on every hold, and another day where I almost committed without even downclimbing to warm up because the conditions felt so much better highlights the difference so well. It's not just about cold crisp grit conditions, it's about making sure for any route that the conditions are in my favour.

In the future, keep aware of conditions, use them if they are good and adapt to them if they are bad.

Regular climbing training:

You never fail on a route from being too strong nor too fit. A lot of the harder routes I've been doing are steep and strenuous or sustained, this is partly a Scottish speciality but probably more common to routes in the UK that I've previously anticipated. Feeling physically confident has made me more mentally confident, and it is something I can keep training.

In the future, keep training. I enjoy it anyway so it should be easy to stick to!

Well-established routes:

I.e. Sticking to boring old polished chalky Rockfax-picked trade routes. The advantage being that there is a chance of them being polished and chalky and having a clear line to follow and clean rock and accurate grades and descriptions, none of which are essential and I can have plenty of fun exploring the wilds of Scotland without those factors BUT when it's something at my limit it has been very beneficial to climb something logistically reliable.

In the future, be aware of how much difference route-reliability can be, and adapt my inspirations as appropriate.

Accepting the chance of failure:

This season I managed to accept failure, both as an overall possibility in trying harder routes, but also on certain routes themselves - a few of the best experiences I had were tackling routes I assumed would be too hard and I was sure I'd not get up, but I gave them a go anyway just to see what happened, and got up them move by move, section by section. As much as I hate failure it's been important to recognise it as a risk I take trying harder routes. Incidentally the end result has been failing on very few routes indeed...

In the future, remember that failure could definitely happen while trying harder routes and acknowledge it as a natural consequence.

 

Weathering out low periods:

To reiterate, I climbed well, I climbed rubbish, I climbed well again. The low period of climbing rubbish was nowhere near the worst I've climbed, but coming so abruptly after a period where I was climbing the best I've climbed, it was certainly one of the biggest drops in standard and confidence. Accepting this was hard and reverting to the then-undesired mileage climbing was also hard, but it gradually worked and enabled me to keep climbing enough to keep my hand in, to get necessary mileage, to slowly work my confidence back, and to even enjoy puntering along. Being patient with, and dealing with this period felt essential to coming out of it.

In the future, remember that I can come out of low periods and persit through them as best I can, using the mileage-focus that generally works.

General fitness and rest:

Good levels of general action and activity and whatever fitness training I can force my legs to do, along with sensible periods of rest before climbing days, and trying to get plenty of good sleep. Although singular challenging climbs tend to be relatively short periods of activity, background fitness training and good rest helped me feel more ready for them and more alert on the day.

In the future, keep active and keep well rested, try to keep doing this with the inspiration that it will benefit my climbing eventually.

Getting used to terrain:

Not so much the general trad climbing terrain, nor specific rock types - both aspects I've got enough experience to be ready for, but more particular types of climbing and types of angle. Both Scotland's typically merciless steepness and occasional and recent slabbiness, I have felt the benefit of either warming up to those sorts of angles, or even over-training the steep angles - i.e. getting very familiar with 20° overhanging training so 10° overhanging trad doesn't feel quite so shocking. The same could apply to hold size too.

In the future, recognise that some terrains can be specifically challenging and prepare appropriately.

Warming up steadily and/or on start of routes:

Two ways have worked for me. Either getting a long steady warm-up on a variety of routes (most suitable when there is plenty of time and plenty of logistically easy routes), and/or warming up and down on challenging routes themselves (most suitable with less time or less suitable warm-up choice) . The latter is a double edged sword: On the plus side it has made many routes more approachable due to getting used to the route, getting pumped, and placing some gear, and having a clearer focus. On the down side it doesn't feel as elegant and somewhat tarnishes the exploratory onsight journey. But it's sometimes appropriate, especially if the route starts with relatively easy ground to a rest.

In the future, remember the importance of warming up and choose the right approach (lots of easy routes vs. starts to harder routes) according to situation.

Pacing, resting, placing gear or pressing on.

Part of a natural process of stacking the odds in my favour and doing the best I can on routes, but it has been often proven to be very beneficial when climbing close to or at my limit. Getting carried away means I can forget this and bull-in-a-china-shop my way up some routes but I need to keep paying attention to what I'm doing and make the most of my tactics.

In the future, stay smart and keep using the tactics I know that work well.

Hopefully that should be useful for future reference....



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Older and colder.
Post by: comPiler on November 06, 2013, 12:00:16 pm
Older and colder. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/11/older-and-colder.html)
6 November 2013, 10:42 am



Anyone got any Ibuprofen?? Not just for the tender fingers, sore skin, tweaky elbows and aching shoulders - but also for the strained neck from the whiplash of deceleration as the temperature, dryness, and climbing opportunity hurtle to an abrupt stop. From the most beautiful of autumn sunshine in the West one weekend, to the most foul of sodden storms the next weekend, to the most bitter bone-cracking breezes the next.

Emergency stop on weather and climbing, I wasn't wearing my belt and got caught out with a full repetoire of aches and pains. With the shitty weather of course I wanted to train, but then it's even getting out of Ratho season so being indoors is a laborious process. From feeling I can jump on anything a month ago, it now takes longer to warm-up than it does to climb. Even doing so, I'm feeling quite an old man as the niggles are niggling away - generally achey fingers, stiffening shoulders, and a worrying flare up of my 2008 LH golfer's elbow (the 2012 RH golfer's elbow being okay so far). Carefree climbing is having to be replaced by methodical maintenance.

During all of this, I'm not really sure what I'm training for. The last proper time out climbing was brilliant and of course all I wanted was to keep going with that, but now I can't and I'm using the full force of my mental inflexibility and stubborness to resist it being bouldering season - particularly as I got so much done last winter season and can't think of much left for this season. Suntrap trad, where art thou?? I keep hoping and checking the weather and drawing up a list of venues but it's all very limited up here. To give myself the slightest fighting chance I do need to keep fit for that. Otherwise it's scrabbling around for climbing trips abroad - I'm feeling pretty relaxed after some good trips this year and am quite happy to go along with other people's plans....well that would be nice in theory....climbers who actually go away climbing and would invite me along, where art thou??

I do have one kind offer over the Christmas period so maybe that can give my something to focus on. In the meantime, I guess I need to get genuinely inspired for training in it's own sake, and learning to cope with all the tedium and faff of lengthy warming up, warming down, stretching, active rest, blah blah can't I just pull hard on small holds?? Well.....no. Guess I better go back to TCA soon...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Narrowing the focus.
Post by: comPiler on November 11, 2013, 12:00:14 am
Narrowing the focus. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/11/narrowing-focus.html)
10 November 2013, 9:41 pm



Went to see Gravity the other day, in full Imax 3D. Really good film, tense and thrilling in many parts, beautiful and serene in others, (and obviously a smidgen implausible in a few, but so what), with very palatable and tastefully done 3D. Definitely recommended, the atmosphere stayed with me for a few days after. One strong feature is how tight the focus is on a couple of people and their immediate environment, amongst the grand and expansive scale of space....it works well...

On the subject of narrow focuses, that something I need to do now - hone the focus of my roped climbing down from the vast and varied expanse of Scottish (and Northern English) cragging to what is actually feasible at this time of year. Quick-drying suntraps, preferably with a bit of shelter and technical wee routes rather than arm-busting hand-freezing staminathons. Oh and some routes to inspire me :).

Current list looks a bit like:

Auchinstarry

Ratho

Limekilns

Dunira

Weem (if not seeping)

Rob's Reed

Arbroath (on the sunny bits)

Back Bowden

Bowden

Kyloe Out

Callerhues

Aberdeen suntraps

Gairloch area (only if glorious)

All sensible stuff I hope. Obviously to be mixed in with bouldering, trips further south, training, gym-work etc etc as appropriate.

I tried one of those today - Back Bowden. Forecast was glorious unbroken sunshine all day. Got to Berwick, it was pissing down. Got to the parking it was dry. Got to the crag it showered on us. Uh HUH. Thankfully that blew over and the crag lived up to it's suntrap potential well, so much so that warming up bouldering wore down my my skin enough that when I got on one route my tips were sweaty and condensed on the cool rock and I had to back off as I was chalking every single bloody hold. Hardly maximising conditions eh. So basically I did fuck all except get very inspired for a couple of routes there and learnt that as well as warming up well I need to keep my skin intact whilst doing so. Lessons lessons.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 11, 2013, 09:58:04 am
Reiff (in wellies)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 11, 2013, 10:46:53 am
Yeah I meant "Gairloch/Ullapool" area. Gonna have to be pretty reliable to risk the journey up there tho.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 11, 2013, 11:15:56 am
OK. We've found Reiff to be pretty bomb proof as a Winter option. Just don't get caught out be chippers in Ullapool closing early in winter.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 11, 2013, 11:38:45 am
Wise words! I'm sure I've been foiled by that a couple of times. The chinese and indian are pretty decent tho.

I've done a lot of the suntrap stuff at Reiff (Stone Pig area, Pinnacle area, Seal Song area) so it's not so appealling to me. But then again there is Ardmair which is even better in winter. Also keen for Goat In The Woods, Mungasdale, and maybe Glutton Crag if it gets enough sun. All seems pretty distant at the moment tho!
Title: How come I can do it??
Post by: comPiler on November 14, 2013, 06:00:12 am
How come I can do it?? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/11/how-come-i-can-do-it.html)
13 November 2013, 7:59 pm



Bear with me on this one. It involves both grades and comparing myself to other people - two ugly and uncouth aspects of climbing. But there is a purpose and of course it's absolutely nothing to do with ego or willy-waving - it is just trying to understand a bit more about my climbing, my strengths and weaknesses (and thus how to keep progressing and/or keep enjoying it).

So I've climbed with several good climbers through my time in Scotland (yup I eventually managed to find climbing partners, albeit away from the trad climber drought in Glasgow). Some of these people I consider my peers, some of these people I aspire to climb as well at. Almost all of these people I get on well with and have a good time climbing with, so I respect them as well. They are all experienced trad climbers who also do other disciplines and usually train and try hard. When I climb with them down the wall (where I sometimes flash 7a maximum) and outside, I've noticed a trend:

Climber 1: Can do quite a few power problems I can't do despite not focusing on bouldering. When fit climbs similar indoors but slower and smoother. Tallish, light, very hill-fit.

Comparative trad: 1-2 grades lower.

Climber 2: Warms up on 7a indoors, flashes 7b maybe harder. Tall, very mountain fit.

CT: œ a grade harder usually but similar recently.

Climber 3: Regularly flashes 7b-7c indoors. Very light.

CT: œ a grade harder usually.

Climber 4: Laps 7b+ upwards indoors. Flashes at least 7c+ outdoors. Very strong.

CT: 1 grade harder usually.

Climber 5: Can do quite a few fingery / cranky problems I can't do despite not focusing on bouldering.  Tallish, light, fit.

CT: 1-2 grades lower.

 

Climber 6: Warms up climbing Teddy's 7b+ clean, flashed top half of Silk Purse after two falls on lower crux i.e. very sport fit.

CT: œ a grade harder usually, I assume, but similar recently.

So it seems that comparatively, I do better than expected in trad. Or worse than expected indoor sport and bouldering. This is a small sample but my other climbing partners do little to contradict this.

Now bear in mind that I am traditionally a weak trad climber: I'm too slow, I faff around too long, I spend ages backing up gear, I get pumped far too easily, I struggle to commit to moves, I struggle to commit into the unknown, I'm terrified of falling and even getting into a position where I might fall. I've always been better physically rather than mentally, and performed better in bouldering and sport, especially indoors where the holds are obvious so I know what I'm committing too.

So how come I can do it?? How come I can SOMETIMES climb relatively well on trad despite it being my "weaker" discipline?? Well I can think of a couple explanations:

1. Inspiration and determination - I'm so passionate about trad and so inspired by it that I keep pushing hard and keep fighting to do the challenges I enjoy, both in preparation and on the route. Obviously other climbers do....but maybe I do it a little bit more??

2. I'm actually crap indoors - I'd just got the wrong perspective about my climbing. Maybe instead of being strong indoors and scared outdoors, I'm actually kinda weak indoors and kinda skilled enough outdoors. Or maybe just well balanced (in climbing styles not in mental harmony)??

In terms of this pondering being of any use, I guess it works in the context of "play to your strengths, work your weaknesses". Keep determined and inspired, but also realise my weakness might be weakness, and keep training hard...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: GazM on November 14, 2013, 08:48:32 am
It's an interesting one, and I guess it comes down to the multi-disciplinary and yet specific nature of climbing.  I've long realised that doing lots of trad makes you good at doing lots of trad, and the things that make you want to do lots of trad aren't necasarily the things that make you want to do lots of sport (and hence be good at sport), if you catch my drift....

Many's the time I've heard strong climbers say that they'll need to get back on the training after a trip, despite climbing lots of hard trad routes because they're no longer 'sport' fit.

I used to be amazed how friends who generally climbed lower grades than me on rock used to climb much harder in winter, all the time, but then realised they were just way more psyched for winter than I ever was.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 14, 2013, 09:09:08 am
I think Psyche has a lot to do with it. And also the PMA to get on harder stuff and be prepared to fight the good fight and not be afraid to fail. I know I could probably climb at least 2 grades harder than what I regard as my "trad grade" but TBH I'm old and responsible and don't like getting too scared anymore.

Also what is your official "trad grade" for me it's a range from VS to E2 (and the occasional E3) depending on style of climbing and rock. I think style of climbing in trad is more varible than in sport, where the style falls within a much a narrower band.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 14, 2013, 11:43:32 am
Chris, the Psyche is exactly what I mean in Point 1.

My trad grade range is often pretty narrow (i.e. one grade band, apart from warm-ups) as I'm often pushing myself pretty hard, and I try to do so on a wide variety of rock-types and styles
.

Gaz, in those terms I am pretty much an all-rounder for rock and plastic. Although I am "primarily" a trad climber, I spend all winter pushing myself bouldering, almost all trips abroad pushing myself on sport (i.e. not alpine easy routes), AND due to the joys of Scottish weather, I'm doing route/boulder training indoors regularly for at least 2/3 of the year, and I'm always pushing to the point of failure with that.

I could conversely ask "why am I so shit at indoor climbing". The answers being: Heavy, poor power-to-weight ratio, poor cv fitness, and very sweaty skin.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 14, 2013, 01:55:29 pm
My trad grade range is often pretty narrow (i.e. one grade band, apart from warm-ups) as I'm often pushing myself pretty hard, and I try to do so on a wide variety of rock-types and styles

While you are, I don't necessarily think everyone is operating in a narrow grade , which is why your CTs may be hard to quantify accurately?
Title: Carcass
Post by: comPiler on November 15, 2013, 12:00:09 pm
Carcass (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/11/carcass.html)
15 November 2013, 11:55 am



YYFY!  Finally seen them live. Since my UKB sparring partner in death metal discussion, GCW (http://lankytwat.blogspot.co.uk/), enjoyed it so much, I think I should celebrate too.

So, Carcass. I first heard them - and recorded them to cassette - on the John Peel show, playing Exhume To Consume I think. Pretty rabid stuff and I didn't follow them so much at the time. Later on I remember buying the first issue of Thrash n Burn (https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.481146045243292.116379.224627090895190&type=3) magazine in a wee shop in Castle Douglas of all places, and I'm pretty sure it was them who reviewed the legendary Necrotism: Descanting The Insalubrious album, rightly hailing it as a milestone in death metal, and even drawing comparisons to classic music in how complex yet tightly structured the tracks were (a fair point, albeit one that uncultured oafs who dismiss metal as too noisy won't get). Suffice to say Necrotism and it's follow-up Heartwork became firm favourites. I skipped over the much maligned and more accessible Swansong, partly because it came out as I was getting more exclusively into hardcore and gabber, and consigned Carcass to historical legends.

Upon getting back into metal recently I re-purchased some albums and was of course very excited about the release of Surgical Steel, buying the actually rather good Swansong to get me warmed up in advance, and then Symphonies Of Sickness to round of my collection. Having seen my other long-term favourites Bolt Thrower live, it was great to see Carcass too....I'm not really a gig person, but will get tempted by top quality death metal. They were supporting flamboyant Viking battle metal masters Amon Amarth who also played a great set, so didn't play as long as I hoped (and I still can't believe the immediately catchy Master Butcher's Apron is missed out), but aside from that it was a great gig - Class of 85 provides a perfect intro, CJQ was as frantically groovy as expected, Exhume to Consume was pleasingly rabid with backdrop images of diseased penises, Bill Steer was clearly having a great time on guitar, and the catchiness of many of their tracks was firmly hammered home. \m/ enough said \m/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YVW9GmPiaM

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vwYqEihTpQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vwYqEihTpQ)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmENcnXtwSM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THkGcjNKdoE



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Hoseyb on November 15, 2013, 12:21:16 pm
Ahh.. Bands of childhood. My best mate Matt was a big fan and played them incessantly. Its all a bit of a blur nowadays, but names bring fond memories, as did Cathedral, Faster pussy-cat, paradise lost et al. I remember Cathederal had a particularly good track with a flute in...
Title: Backing off at Bowden AGAIN.
Post by: comPiler on November 18, 2013, 06:00:11 pm
Backing off at Bowden AGAIN. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/11/backing-off-at-bowden-again.html)
18 November 2013, 12:31 pm



This weekend I went back to Bowden (but not Back Bowden). Hazy cloud and light winds after a previously dry day promised good conditions without being too bitter, which was about right. I'd hoped to try The Gauletier and maybe Posiedon Adventure, but came away empty handed. Warmed up gently on easy solos and going up and down routes. No dicking around trashing my skin bouldering - I'd already done enough of that the previous day, training on slabs at TCA, just for these routes.

Got on TG, went up and down working out the first crux getting stood on the low gear break. Committed to that, and thin crimps above. stood one move up nibbling foot edges, and wondered why all I could reach was a slopey seam below the main break. I pondered smearing and slapping for the break, and I pondered breaking my ankles with the ground too close for comfort, and I jumped off in control instead. A sensible but disappointing decision - I just didn't know if I was going to hit the ground or not, even with Brian running to take in rope, and I shouldn't do a slappy move with that uncertainty.

Then it got a bit still and humid and my fingers were dripping sweat after hanging on crimping and even looking at PA terrified me slightly, so all that was left to do before the drizzle came in to season a 2+ hour journey of incompetent twats hogging the overtaking lane at 60-fucking-mph was: What could I have done differently to get up the route?? I could have risked the move, I could have fallen off, I could have hit the ground. The problem was simply: I didn't know whether I was in a groundfall situation or not - without a running belayer I definitely was, with a running belayer I "might" be okay.

So what I could have done was had better information. I've done plenty of falling practice at the wall, but generally I've tried to go for the longest falls my only-very-slowly-diminishing cowardice will allow, with the more rope out and the softer fall the better. Outside and relatively low above a hard landing is a different matter, and while I've been in running belay situations before - http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=44562 for example, which involved a much easier move, a better move height to gear height ratio, an easier angled slab to take the sting out of the fall, and much more time for the belayer to react - I don't know how much I can get away with to stay safe. So maybe I need to take some practice falls outside (or even inside with a low bolt) to gain that knowledge. Then maybe I could have made a different decision on the climb....or made the same one...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: NOT backing off at Back Bowden.
Post by: comPiler on November 21, 2013, 12:00:06 am
NOT backing off at Back Bowden. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/11/not-backing-off-at-back-bowden.html)
20 November 2013, 6:55 pm



Back this, Bowden that, whatever. Suffice to say I've redeemed myself from my previous punterage and shoddy strategies, and went back and did a couple of fine routes:

On The Verge has inspired me for 10 years or so. It just looked cool. Very much a grit-style bold slabby arete, but I've never been routing there in grit-style weather. Well the other day was a perfect grit-style winter's day: Below zero at dusk, snow on the roads, frozen ground, searingly crisp air and soothingly warm sunshine. Gentle slabby bouldering got my feet warmed up and faffing with gear got my mind warmed up. Stepping into the slab was a bit of a child-bearing-hip manouvre, above that it just flowed smoothly to the top.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IMnni3t3PCU/Uoz-yBjxPOI/AAAAAAAABBE/UvkCYPVb0G8/s400/fiend_otv.jpg)  (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IMnni3t3PCU/Uoz-yBjxPOI/AAAAAAAABBE/UvkCYPVb0G8/s1600/fiend_otv.jpg)

The Tube has inspired me for 10 days or so - from the last visit. It just looked so weird and sketchy previously - crabwise shuffling along a break that's bound to be alarmingly shallow and inconvenient, otherwise it would be an HVS shuffle, which it isn't. But closer inspection on the last visit showed a lone foothold partway along and a very obvious slit to aim for that the finish. Suddenly I had to do it! Taking advantage of the low sunlight caressing the break, I was able to pump my way along without getting too cold or scared and ended up in a fit of giggles using knees, elbows, chin and tongue to grovel over the lip. I can now see why it is such a classic County experience :).

Now, on to the grade geekery. Yay! The Tube is spot on. A bit bold, a bit pumpy, a few quite tricky moves. On The Verge seems to be following the bizarre trend in the latest definitive guide, along with Outward Bound, by going up a grade when it's one of the few County routes that should go down a grade. E2 5c move to get stood in the crescent + E3 5b move to place the cam by the good hold + E1 5b/c to finish, all on a restful slab = E3 5c. It's science, motherfuckers. In fact it's such obvious, clear-cut science that it makes me wonder if the blindingly obvious cam placement you go for "isn't in". Except:

1. The guidebook says "bold and committing moves lead up the arete until a crack is gained which provides an easy finish".There is only one crack to gain and although you don't actually use it to climb (the arete slants away so it would be harder to fall into it than to keep laybacking the arete!), it's a crack that can be used for gear.

2. The crack is right next to a crucial arete hand-hold:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YQ11fHudafo/Uoz-ycpv2gI/AAAAAAAABBI/69pX3oa7x1c/s400/otvgear.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YQ11fHudafo/Uoz-ycpv2gI/AAAAAAAABBI/69pX3oa7x1c/s1600/otvgear.jpg)This is not off-route, the route is climbing the left arete of that crack when you reach this point. I'm a short wee stunty and while it felt precarious to stretch the cam in, if I can manage it it's hardly an obscure manouvre. Ignoring the gear 6" from your hand would be like climbing The Executioner at Reiff but not placing any gear in the crack the arete forms part of! (Conversely, the side-runner on Auto Da Fe at Berrymuir requires traversing a metre or so away from good holds and into another route to place...).

So what does it all mean?? Either OTV follows the true line and is a steady E3 5c **, or it's an inferior eliminate at E4 5c *. The way I did it was very nice anyway :).



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: The Fail Train.
Post by: comPiler on November 27, 2013, 06:00:21 pm
The Fail Train. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/11/the-fail-train.html)
27 November 2013, 12:59 pm



Dunira or Die, Dunira - failed - did the lower wall fine, got to the crux roof, discovered it's a full grade under-graded and a massively reachy and blind slap, and pretty much gave up in disinterest. Not much I could have done and not much I particularly care about.

The Hard Shoulder, Goat Crag - attempted - wanted to try this for years, and had a very prolonged play around on it recently. A great line but the route doesn't quite do it justice, swinging around to within easy reach of a corner before lurching back onto the line. We tried direct and I got very syked until realising which way it went, at which point the syke diminished but the groundfall potential didn't and eventually I lost the committment. Maybe I will be back, maybe not.

Juggernaut, Goat Crag - failed - got on this late in the day after spotting surprisingly good gear. Got engaged with the crux, realised I needed a different sequence. Came down and rested, went back up ignored my revised sequence, got over-optimistic with my feet and all out of balance and fell off. "Doh" being the technical term. Should have been steadier and more methodical with trying to work out the best sequence.

Master Blaster, Rothley - failed - very cold rock and not perfectly clean. Got my partner to abseil down chalk and brush it. Climbed up easy ground to the break. Climbed up tricky moves to the crucial cam pocket and placed it. Downclimbed and rested until I could feel my hands again. Climbed up past the cam and furtled towards the arete. Too damn cold. Downclimbed past the cam and my foot slipped off and so did I. Fuck. Was going to back off anyway due to conditions, and maybe that's the crux of the day. With warmer drier weather and I might just have pressed on and engaged the crux, or might not have slipped off a hold. Too much inspiration and too little consideration trying it when the last sun it got was probably September and the last ascent god knows when.

Getting home from Rothley with both wing mirrors attached - failed - narrow two lane road en-route to Otterburn. Going down into a dip, another car comes over the brow 1/2 a mile away with snazzy halogen fullbeam on into the same dip. I'm slowing down to try to pass safely but as I get close the last thing I think is "Fuck ME that is bright, that's still full beam, I can't see the verge" and then there's wing mirror flying everywhere. We both pull in, I go to the other car and check straight away to confirm the full beam is still on...

Me: You had your full beam on all the time, I was blinded and couldn't see how far to pull over.

(This is even assuming that it was partly my positioning to blame, which isn't certain)

Other driver: You were going too fast.

Me: I was slowing right down to pass you, I was braking all the way down the hill.

OD: Slowing down to 50 or 60 maybe... Anyway it's only a wing mirror, we can just accept it's an accident.

Me: Yes I will accept that. But did you turn your full beam off when you passed me??

OD: *flaps around evasively* I turned it on just now...

(Fiend thinks: If you're going to lie, at least do a better job than that. Did you turn it on as the obvious first reaction to hitting a wing mirror, or did you turn it on as the standard procedure for pulling in on the side of the road?? Uh HUH.)

Me: *shakes head* You had it on all the time. That makes it hard to pull over safely.

OD: You were still going too fast, you need to slow down more so we can pass each other like gentlemen.

(Fiend thinks: Surely a gentleman would admit to his mistakes and not lie to pretend he didn't do anything wrong.)

Me: And you need to turn your full beam off, as it says in the Highway Code *walks away*.

And then it was just a few more hours of relentless bumbling on the A68 Traffic Jam Road Of Ultimate Shit, going through an entire tank of screenwash with the dirt spray, and getting a sore neck checking to overtake safely on the motorway. Not the most successful climbing day ever.

 ~{§}~

Update: Lying awake in the middle of the night still thinking about Master Blaster. I'm actually quite upset about messing this one up, because it's one of very few climbs in the County, or indeed North of the grit, that is both at a level of challenge I can just about aspire too, AND is very bold but just about safe. The perfect style of climbing waaaay out from good gear and committing to tricky moves that could result in a massive scraping swing rather than a massive breaking groundfall (as is more often the case in the County!).  The others I can think of are Endless Flight @ Great Wanney (which definitely has to be left for drier weather) and Greenford Road @ Sandy Crag (which is a fucking hike so well off the radar).

Master Blaster could have been the perfect one and I could have done things so much better. Even aside from leaving it for a better day, I could have downclimbed earlier to see just how reasonable the gear situation is (and then maybe committed anyway), I could have marked the foothold so I got my foot in better and didn't slip off, I could have taken the cam out and had a much easier downclimb (a new tactic I really need to keep in mind!!). I could have got the day's plans organised a damn sight earlier and had more time to deal with it. A lot of little things I didn't do right and one little footslip and that's a brilliant potential climb lost for now - I'll have to wait a while for "the onsight to grow back" with this one.

I suppose the copper lining is yet more learning. Learning about complacency. Learning to keep up with my usual dilligence and planning. Learning that there's a reason I wake in the night thinking about these things, because they are meaningful and matter to me, and deserve respect and attention to detail.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Why so serious?
Post by: comPiler on December 03, 2013, 12:00:21 am
Why so serious? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/12/why-so-serious.html)
2 December 2013, 8:18 pm



It might look crazy from the outside. Someone goes out on a nice warm Sunday afternoon in December, tries a really cool looking climb, does the hard bits fine, gets tired and nervous on one easy move before a rest, rests on the gear and lowers off. A seemingly insignificant event, but his reaction to this is as follows: firstly swearing and shouting, then upon abseiling to remove the protection (and confirm the situation was as easy as expected and it was his failing not the climb's difficulty), briefly loses his temper and throws several bits of climbing gear around, then collects them all in a cold hard rage. He maintains enough composure to explain and apologise to his climbing partner, who is thankfully human enough to understand the emotional stresses of climbing, and belay him on another route. After this his anger stays seething all the way home, and he even has a couple of rare drinks to try to calm down. Later on it just about subsides to crossness and disappointment but takes another night and day to fully dissipate.

So that was me then and this is me now, trying to make sense of it.

Why so serious? Why does it matter so much? Why such a strong reaction to something so trivial as failing on a climb? After all it's not like I broke my legs, or crashed my car, or came back to find my flat broken in to, or had a family member diagnosed with cancer, or had a helicopter drop on my head when I was out for a casual Friday night drink... Why so angry?

(Although when I was lying in hospital with multiple DVTs due to an unknown cause, swollen legs and a massively spiking CRT, and scarcely able to walk to the toilet, I wasn't angry at all, just resigned.)

Some people understand, some people don't. Sometimes I don't feel I understand, but all I know, contrary to how it might seem to some people, the feeling is completely natural and totally genuine. It's not made up for effect or exaggerated for drama. It's not chosen or contrived. It is real and it is how I really feel. No amount of "why should you be angry?" / "it's only a climb" / "aren't you overreacting?" / "think how lucky you are" will change that. No amount of realising it's counter-productive and not wanting to be so angry will magically switch it off. If I had a Control Emotions switch I wouldn't be human.

So it matters, it is serious, it is a genuine response.

Why??

Because climbing is a brilliant and fantastic activity that I am passionate about, so I invest a lot in emotionally because that's how it works for me. For some people it's just a hobby, just a bit of fun, just....whatever. For me it is that, but it is more - and it engages me BECAUSE it is more. It's serious because this much fun is a serious business, this is what really matters! The downside to the emotional investment - the inspiration, the dedication, the passion, the excitement, the satisfaction, the engagement, the fun, the physical expression - is that if I betray or sabotage that, I can be as upset with myself as I am excited with myself when I do it well.

Most of the anger is that the route I failed on was very good, it would have been a very nice, interesting, enjoyable, exciting, stimulating experience to climb it all. It was a precious and positive experience that I engaged with and then chose to throw away due to giving in to my own inadequacies. I had something great and then ruined it for myself - and in the area, that is a limited resource. If it had been something less inspiring, more trivial, more common (there aren't so many good climbs at that standard in that style that are accessible to me), less special as an experience of pleasure, then I could walk away a lot calmer. But abseiling down I could see just how much pleasure I would have got from continuing and completing the climb. Throwing away a really good climbing experience....that is why I was angry.

The other most of the anger (yes, there was THAT much) is that it was my own lack of determination that let me down. The route is not a very hard route, and besides I had done the hard bits. If I fail on something because it is genuinely hard, because I get beaten fair and square, because I am just not good enough, then I could walk away a lot calmer. On this route I was good enough, but for a moment I chose not to be, I chose to give in to the pressures of pump and nervousness instead of fighting through them, even when I was so close to just doing it.

The one thing I can perhaps take from this experience is a reminder that it does matter to me, that it is serious fun, and that I will get really pissed off if I mess it up for myself. Maybe because I haven't done much of that this autumn, I've got complacement and forgotten how pissed off I can get. So next time keeping the consequences of failure in mind might give me that little bit of an edge when my positive desire for success and enjoyment gets blunted.

Hope this makes sense. Posting now because I'm fed up of trying to write/edit it!

 

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Peak Practice.
Post by: comPiler on December 12, 2013, 06:00:13 pm
Peak Practice. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/12/peak-practice.html)
12 December 2013, 3:06 pm



It's taken me a good 4 years to get over the horror of gritstone climbing and get some syke back for it. Living in Sheffield for many years, doing over a thousand routes on grit, continuously battling the slopey, rounded, frictional, reachy, pumpy and utterly committing climbing than plays exactly to my weaknesses, ensured that I didn't miss it one bit. Until this winter when I haven't shaken off my trad syke - bored of bouldering and still utterly revolted by the very idea of ""Scottish Winter Climbing"", the prospect of coming back down to play on the optimal winter rock suddenly became appealing. Plus I'd missed the slabs and aretes and technical delicacies that are very sparsely spread in Scotland, and well-established, well-climbed routes with clean holds and clear lines that are also often a rarity in the barren wastelands up here. Finally I had a card up my sleeve - the confidence I'd gained from falling practice was still lingering and I felt inspired to try to put into action of some committing but hopefully not dangerous grit routes.

As it happened, we had to battle the weather as much as the climbing. Chasing the "panic about tidal surge" hurricane down, we left Glasgow on a glorious crisp pre-dawn morning, hit gloomy cloud by Preston and swirling hill fog and sleet leaving Glossop. In the ensuing days, the weather slowly perked up through mizzle, clart, murk, haze and finally crisp sunshine, all driven across the edges by punishing breezes, meaning our crag visits went something like this:

Shining Cliff - great nick when it was sleeting at Stanage and showering at Curbar.

Curbar day 1 - damp in the morning, then okay nick....until it rained.

Curbar/Froggatt day 2 - bone dry at Moon area but too strong gales to climb. Froggatt not as crisp but dry enough and at least survivable.

Roaches - glorious sun, decent breeze, and almost entirely green and sodden. Only bits of the Skyline and HD were in decent nick.

Stanage High Neb - almost perfect nick on the rock but again a howling wind limited feasible route options.

Stanage Popular / Plantation - absolutely perfect nick with a cold morning and evening, glorious sun and cool breeze in between.

...restricting both crag and route options, meaning my mini tick-list was downsized to this:

Flyaway E1 5b * - steep, steady, and fun

Marathon Man E2 5c ** - good fun safe cruxy climbing

Lazy Day F6b+ *** - great line and good climbing but an odd experience with the old aid bolts

Four Pebble Slab E3 5c * - a bit eliminate but a nice run-out with pure friction moves

Shortcomings E1 6a * - an unexpected pleasure that I never thought I'd bother trying, I was tall enough to place the gear but short enough to have to reach the flake the hard way

Hunky Dory E3 5c *** - excellent route, the perfect blend of powerful bits and committing bits

The Beautician E3 5c ** - with the blindingly obvious en-route runner that's 18" left of the hand-holds you start the crux slab with, safe and steady but good proper slab moves

Pig's Ear V3 ** - a rare occasion for me to keep the pads down, worth it for a fine wee highball

Fate E2 5c * - another unexpected pleasure which I had tried but backed off, I'm not sure how as this time I did it at dusk in about 3 minutes

Stanleyville E4 5c ** - perfect morning just as the fog lifted, good committing crux

Constipation E4 6a ** - took quite a bit of up-and-downing to find the sequence, proper grit trickiness

DIY E3 6a *** - onsight no pads, amazing conditions with just enough skin left, great committing moves and really rewarding

Ones that got away: The Bear Hunter (hurricane conditions), King Kong (too cold and unbouncy for the mantle), Wolf Solent (escaped off the super-safe crux with cold hands and the easy chimney 2' away), Comus (brutally hard and reachy, backed off).

The last day at Stanage showed just how much cool stuff we could have done if the weather had been more amenable - but then again I'd have probably run out of fingertips in a couple of days!! So not so many spectacularly challenging routes, but a nice blend of fairly classic and fairly tricky routes done fairly confidently, and minorly tricky routelets done with a surprising minimum of fuss. Slabs felt very steady, bulges felt bloody awful (maybe due to the relatively humidity on open rounded holds?), and I certainly need more hospitable weather, more warming up, and more beefing up to tackle anything steep down there. At any rate it was mighty good fun when we got on dry rock and my next return visit might be in 4 weeks rather than 4 years...

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-60p0GjZP050/UqnRdjYN0ZI/AAAAAAAABBo/wIsFzfF3kZI/s640/fiend_lazy.jpg)  (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-60p0GjZP050/UqnRdjYN0ZI/AAAAAAAABBo/wIsFzfF3kZI/s1600/fiend_lazy.jpg)Grit sport climbing at it's best on Lazy Day

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qTAlWSQvLOI/UqnRT9R8A-I/AAAAAAAABBg/jNzdOTj3j2k/s640/fiend_hunky.jpg)  (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qTAlWSQvLOI/UqnRT9R8A-I/AAAAAAAABBg/jNzdOTj3j2k/s1600/fiend_hunky.jpg)Enjoying a tasty mini-runout on good ripples on Hunky Dory.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: Peak Practice.
Post by: cheque on December 12, 2013, 06:36:46 pm
Ones that got away: The Bear Hunter (hurricane conditions)

I was on Art of Japan (well, had a few goes while waiting for my mate to do it so we could go somewhere anywhere less windy) while you were on this. Good effort for even trying it!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on December 12, 2013, 06:43:23 pm
Hi!  :)

It was a silly effort....quite unfeasible really....I was just too syked having had a look past it the previous day. But the wind funnelling up those Moon gullies, jesus  :sick: I'll be back though, looks cool. Hope you had a good day, the rock seemed in decent nick in the right places.

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: fatneck on December 13, 2013, 09:32:56 am
Did I see you in the Outside Cafe on Saturday Fiend? Walked in with the missus as you were leaving I think...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Wood FT on December 13, 2013, 09:46:09 am
I too believe I walked past Fiend outside the outside on saturday, time stood still
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: slackline on December 13, 2013, 10:27:04 am
Can't be too many people rocking the orange camo outfits these days (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=13650.25).

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_jEP4ja2B15Q/S6Fcwhfw_sI/AAAAAAAAARI/FkWIWU2bImw/s1600-h/fiend_meribel.jpg)


EDIT : Don't recall seeing Yoss's contribution to that thread before....

(http://simontyler.co.uk/bigmac.jpg)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on December 13, 2013, 10:43:50 am
It could well have been me. Scraggly beard, normal camo hoodie, and a slightly haggard, traumatised look after nuking the outside toilets due to the previous night's thai salad + curry??

Not been rocking the full orange for a while, although I always have the snood and fuck me it was needed on the edges most days.
Title: To pad or not to pad...
Post by: comPiler on December 14, 2013, 06:00:09 pm
To pad or not to pad... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/12/to-pad-or-not-to-pad.html)
14 December 2013, 12:53 pm



...that is not the question. Any more than to cam or not, to RP or not, to chalk or not, to Stealth rubber or not. Pads are default, de-rigeur protection, I use them and so does everyone else...

I'm still standing on the slopey ripple, as I have been for over 20 minutes. I could reverse down and jump off at any time. I could retreat and walk away at any time. I could bring the pads over and boulder it out. I look across at them stacked beneath Tris. He is getting close to Sithee Direct, pushing through day 6 tiredness from the undercling to an overhead press, a brilliant move. It provides a welcome distraction whilst my brain refines the sequences above, slotting together information gained over several tenative forays. Left foot edge - no. Right foot smear - no. Left hand gaston - no. Left hand over to top sloper - no. Right hand to sidepull pebble - no. Exploring options, discarding dead ends, running out of excuses to not do the remaining optimised moves.

The conditions are pretty much perfect - hovering around zero at dusk after a fresh sunny day - and the rock feels great. My skin feels less great. My tips went numb at first, now they are glowing and rippled from the grit grains. Each time I'm surprised I can stick onto the top slopers without pinging straight off - I have no intention of doing so and need to get this right if....when I do it. I look down at the flat pile of my rope bag and down jacket. My tips are still sweating so my swiftly-discarded hoodie adds a few millimetres of cushioning. I keep my beanie on, I just got it in the Hope Spar for £1.70 and it's muted stripes would go well with grey, purple, or blue. I'm wearing a blue t-shirt so the beanie gives me confidence.

A couple of climbers appear with several pads to join in the fun. Would I like their pads thrown down beneath me? No, I want to do this the way I had always desired. They happily pile them beneath Torture Garden, but I don't want to hold too many people up so get back into the crux position with a few percent extra motivation. Smear my hands on the slopers, dig my foot into the pocket....and this time take the handbrake off and step up into the subtle left foot pocket. Calm and committed, left hand into the flake, right hand to the good edge, left foot onto the flake and scamper with glee to the top. The climbing is delightful as is the pleasure of doing it in this way, it's possibly the highlight of several days and a dozen good routes on the grit.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lP1Et9M9ZBg/UquJOZNDkbI/AAAAAAAABCE/GmGJ2KU_t2Y/s1600/fiend_diy.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lP1Et9M9ZBg/UquJOZNDkbI/AAAAAAAABCE/GmGJ2KU_t2Y/s1600/fiend_diy.jpg)

So I did an easy micro-route without pads, just like a million climbers before me in the bad old days. So what?? Except for me, it IS a challenging style of climbing. I'm short and sweaty and sketchy on smears and slopers, I land with the grace and impact of a pissed hippo and the skeletal resilience of a balsa model. I also had the very sensible option to do the climb as a highball with good pads and spotting - which in my experience makes a lot of difference to my safety and confidence - just like a million climbers do in the good current days. Except I chose not to....

Why??

Or maybe:

Was it more enjoyable at the time doing the climb in that style than doing it in a highball style??

That's an easier question because the answer is a simple yes. The increased focus, the precision, learning the moves, dealing with the mental challenge by becoming increasingly familiar with the physical situation - all were more enjoyable for me than if I'd felt safer and more comfortable above pads. The sweaty skin from a lot of up-and-downing wasn't but that was a minor detraction.

Is that justification in itself??

Maybe.

But at the same time I'm always interested in the issues of motivation, and the issues of climbing style. Highballing is the new, normal climbing style. Micro-routing isn't. Pads are the new, normal climbing protection. It takes a particular effort to conciously ignore and actively avoid using them. So why would anyone bother to choose the harder, more dangerous, more time consuming option?? When the convention seems a very natural approach to shorter protectionless routes, increasing the safety yet still retaining some of the feel and committment required, it seems ridiculous to fly in the face of that convention  - even when top climbers like James Pearson do it (from what I understand his motivation was partly to have clarity about the nature of the challenge in comparison to other grit trad challenges).

For me personally, I take all the opportunities I can get to deal with trad challenges, and I take my protection rack of C3s, RPs, Peenuts, Superlights, Ballnuts, HBs, Tricams on most bolder routes. So why don't I put the protection of pads beneath my feet??

It boils down to inspiration (god, not THAT again!) - how I was originally inspired to do a climb. Most of my inspiration is old inspiration - I'm a crap climber so it takes me many years from first desiring a route to actually feeling ready to try climbing it. Old, deep, entrenched inspiration. If I was inspired by a climb in the old red-spined Stanage guide, then chances are I'll still be inspired by it now (and might have avoided it for decades due to being too scared). If I was inspired by a route as a micro-route and/or a bold solo, chances are I'll still be inspired by THAT challenge and THAT style now. Which means although it will be harder and scarier, it's how I actually want to do it - for the reasons of the enjoyment listed previously.

I have quite a few routes I have always wanted to do in this way. I might relinquish my inspiration and throw a load of pads down in a month, or a year, or a decade. Or I might stick with what I want and do them without. Or I might never do them, I might just accept I can't do them how I want, and just walk away. Is it silly to deny myself the climbing?? I don't know, I've got a couple of decades to change my mind if I want to. Conversely there are many similar climbs I was never previously inspired by that I'd get inspired by now purely as highballs, and never consider doing them in a different way.

There is no conclusion to this, there is no point I'm making, as the issue can be as simple as it first seems: It's now a rare and esoteric choice to solo rather than to highball, but it is still a genuine choice and can be undertaken for genuine reasons.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Dolerite Days - The End Of Two Eras.
Post by: comPiler on December 21, 2013, 12:00:24 am
Dolerite Days - The End Of Two Eras. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2013/12/dolerite-days-end-of-two-eras.html)
20 December 2013, 8:01 pm



Warning, this is even more long-winded, over-opinionated and anal-retentive than usual. To help read or more likely avoid some parts of it, I've highlighted some paragraphs as below:

[Æ] - analysis of ethical issues

[ß] - beta alert

[¢] - climbing report

[Ð] - dishing out the pain on idiots

Onwards...



1. Wally 2, Ratho.


One of the temporarily retro-bolted and thankfully repaired routes that I'd always wanted to do but at the time of bolting....

   ...I haven't done it because I've been exploring the rest of Scotland and have saved it for a short local day.


[Ð] One of the most farcical moments in the whole debate was when one of the pro-retrobolting / anti-consultation / anti-trad protagonists - let's just call him The Liar, not least because of his fictional claims to "enjoy both trad and sport" (well demonstrated by doing sport 90% of the time) - somehow claimed that I was making this up. Well that's an impressive way to sabotage one's entire arguments by somehow contriving to disbelief a truth so obvious and self-evident. What next, doubting someone who claims "I go climbing indoors when it's raining" or "I go on sport climbing trips in winter when it's cold and dark in the UK" or "I like going to the west coast when it's windy to keep the midges away"??

Suffice to say the truth of my statement came to pass the other day....a short local day when I wasn't exploring the rest of Scotland. Cold but pleasant around Edinburgh, wet in the west and too little daylight to go further east. I'd actually been for a look at this route a fortnight before: I'd got on it just before dusk, got pumped placing the gear, reversed down for a rest, then the sunlight went off the wall and my fingers got frozen, and I backed off. So I was itching to get back on, and a sudden skyhook revelation had restored my confidence in the otherwise minimal gear at the start. Gear? Yes, gear. A young kid in the area had led it when it was a sport route without clipping the bolts, and claimed:

   Wally 2 is a solo when climbed without the bolts. Best left alone?


[ß] More falsehoods that hardly encourage sensible debate about a route's trad merits. Of course as a pure trad solo it would still have merits and not warrant retro-bolting, but in fact it is quite a steady lead. I got 11 bits of gear in, ran out of quickdraws *and* RPs - the total tally being: Tied down skyhook (easy to place), RP0, HB0, HB2, Camalot 0.25, Camalot 0.75, HB2, RP1, RP2, Peenut 1, Camalot C3 00. The Camalots are very obvious from the ground, the RPs are very obviously crucial if fiddly gear. A solo?? Errrr. No.

[ß][¢] Anyway it is a great route that I really enjoyed leading in very crisp conditions. Bouldered up to place the first gear, bouldered down to rest and tighten the skyhook, back up and straight into the steady run-out moves up the fine groove to good holds and good cams at mid-height. Explored up the wall above past innumerable RP placements to a steep finish, reversed back down for a rest, committed out right into pumpy but steady moves onto a nice clean top-out. As sensible and normal as trad gets. Then we both did the new sport route to the left which was also good up another elegant groove - a worthy addition that compliments the trad on this wall.

[Æ] So that should be the end of a sordid but ultimately satisfactory saga. There is one more retro-bolted route that I'd like to see repaired, the Slow Strain arete, but that seems less likely as no-one else is campaigning to have that fixed, and it was done with the first ascentionists blessing (although that is only a necessary factor, and by no means sufficient). Given the relentless stupidity I and others have faced when arguing against the retro-bolting, I doubt this will be worth more hassle. Aside from that, that situation is very good: Classic trad routes have been cleaned and re-climbed, Pettifar's has a useful lower-off, there are good new sport additions in-between the trad, and there has been excellent tree and path clearance, the quarry has got more publicity, and with the state of the Ratho wall roof, it's probably drier than the indoor wall!

Victory for the forces of righteousness and justice, then.

And I've done my main inspirations in the quarry....but then again I do like the climbing there....and thinking about it there's a few more things to go back for: Blue Rinse, Alopecia, Slow Strain boltfree, Oroborous Direct, Strongarm, Rebel With Claws, This Septic Heil. Well it's useful to have some inspiration for short local days...



2. Nijinski, Auchinstarry.


And you thought the previous entry had too much ethical waffling on. Oh dear...

[Ð] So Nijinski, THE line of the Central Belt. The Edge Lane / Master's Edge / Archangel of Kilsyth. Sort of. It is, for a lump of rock jutting into a ned carpark in an urban quarry on the bend of a busy road, a beautiful bit of rock. A beautiful bit of rock with a beautiful reputed climb -delicate arete climbing a long way out from small and tenuous RPs. Thus a quintessential lead challenge, the sort of experience one is either ready for or isn't, one either does or walks away in acknowledgment. The one thing one NEVER does is to non-climb the route by top-roping it. Top-roping a route like this is of course is the most utter sort of failure, both a failure to even try the route, and a failure to engage with or even acknowledge it's true quality.

[Æ] I led it, just about onsight, but with a slight impurity that leaves me pondering. I did pretty well: I deliberately didn't do Bladerunner first, I didn't watch anyone on Nijinski in any style, I didn't ask for specific beta, I didn't abseil down to clean it, I didn't watch my mate when he abseiled down for me, I didn't use a pad on the bouldery start. But neither did I just read the guidebook, get syked, and blast from the bottom to the top.

[Æ] Firstly, I had attempted this route before, been up to the crux, been unsure about the line and quite sure it was too warm, reversed down and escaped up the Nijinski Is The Hunter link. Reserving to the ground is normal procedure for me and for many people pushing their onsight limits - cleanly backing off a route under one's own steam and trying it again later. Standard procedure and of little interest. Trying a harder route that breaks out of an easier route, reversing and finishing up the easier route, also fairly standard and also of little interest. Think starting up The Mincer to try Smear Test, getting half-way along Smear Test, not liking it and reversing to finish up The Mincer. Or Pebbledash/The Swan or whatever. So far, so normal - especially in a situation like N where you hang around on the massive resting Triangle before engaging with the full arete.

But in this case, NITH is not a particularly established route - it doesn't appear in the guide, only on UKC, and only with a few ascents. So is it a contrived cop-out that makes a mockery of trying Nijinski onsight?? Is it something no-one would ever do except to escape Nijinski if they are not good enough to do it nor reserve to the ground cleanly?? I'm not sure, but in it's favour, NITH is the easiest line that goes all the way up the frontal slab, and links an highball E3 5c start into a bold, reachy E2 5b finish, by delicate E1 5a climbing, and thus is pleasingly continuous and more balanced in difficulty than DITH (E5+ in to E2) or N (E3 into E5-). It would probably be one or even two stars in it's own right, and a worthwhile climb in it's own right. Would it be a contrived cop-out to start up NITH with the idea to give N a look, and continue up NITH otherwise?? Maybe not...

[Æ] Secondly, while the line of Nijinski is obvious, the line of the climbing is less so. You start the arete on it's right, but above the Triangle, mostly climb it on it's left....but there is one crucial point teetering on a slim quartz ripple whilst blindly grasping a pocket around the corner, where it seems natural to fall rightwards around the corner and layback the arete on it's right. This is where the holds lead, but then seems to bring you into Bladerunner, or at least the Bladerunner holds, for a couple of metres. It looks possible to layback the arete purely on the left, this would be a cleaner line but obviously much harder. Given this sort of route is at my limit with no margin for error, I couldn't continue on my previous attempt without knowing the default way, and I didn't want to get on it again without finding out.

So I asked around. A couple of friends said "yeah you swing rightwards". But they hadn't done it. A few people on the internet said "No you stay on the left all the way". But one person had only top-roped it, and the other two didn't elaborate. A video of someone doing it on YouTube showed them swinging rightwards (I very carefully only skipped through the video quickly to see what line they ended up on, and didn't get any beta). But this was only someone shunting. Someone else on Facebook said they "reached around to the right then up direct". But it was a decade ago and their picture only showed them above the crux. Typical Scotland - hard to get clear information even about a roadside mega-classic! Finally I had a good chat with Alan Cassidywho remembered the situation well "yeah there's that hold around the corner, you swing around on it, it's well sketchy, that felt like the crux". Okay, something that makes sense from someone who has done it recently enough.

[ß][¢] Finally, on to the route. Boulder up the arete, it's harder now the lower block has gone and I have to pounce for the Triangle. Trot up to the gear seam, it's muddier than before, but I have a wee kitchen knife taped next to my nutkey. Scraping around, hard fiddling and firm tugs, and I have my nuts resting in the dirty crack. Nice. As before I have placed loads and two of them are just about good. This time I have a new slider but the bugger still doesn't fit. Perfect thin parallel seam, it annoys me so I step back down to the Triangle. Shake my toes out, and up to the ripple of doom. Hmm it's a bit thin, did I really get on this before and reverse it?? I guess so, because I do again....and again. The second time feels even more precarious, I'm teetering, flicking glances left to the gear (which I feel happy with), right around the corner to what little I can see (not much), down to the minimal footholds (gulp). I very nearly committ then - either I will fall off and at least I won't be on this fucking ripple any more, or I will do the moves.....and at least I won't be on this fucking ripple any more. I reverse by the skin of my teeth for another rest. 3rd time lucky, well it has to be: Firstly I realise the top of NITH is wet so I can't escape again. Secondly I throw down by bodywarmer (but not my £1.69 beanie, today it is matching a purple t-shirt and I'm not giving up THAT advantage), so I can't reverse as I will freeze solid. Onto the ripple, right hand in the pocket, change my geometries and fall around the corner, smearing my left hand as I go - it is a brilliant move, very much a poor man's Kaluza Klein (see 5:45 here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBcaIPUH6N0)). Layback the arete, reach good holds up and right, cruise to the top.

[¢] So I did the line in accordance with the slight majority vote, in accordance with someone who described it clearly, in accordance with the line of least resistance, and in accordance with something that had bloody great moves on it. After all the faff and escaping and enquiring, the moment that really mattered was that swing around, the moment of mid-motion and smearing my hand to control it. A beautiful manouvre for a beautiful line.

[Æ] If Nijinski is supposed to take the eliminate line letting go of, or ignoring, the crucial pocket and staying purely on the left, sobeit. This would be a worthy alternative for a guidebook footnote and perhaps best named "Nijinski Direct", and still worth 3 stars. If the line of least resistance I took is an easier grade, sobeit. With enough gear in the crack, it felt easy for the grade for me anyway.

Now I can move on.....Bladerunner/direct, Surface Tension, Gold Bug await....

 

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: rosmat on December 21, 2013, 01:18:30 am
Always nice to have your nuts resting in  a dirty crack......
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: rosmat on December 21, 2013, 01:24:31 am
Ps good effort matt, climbing well fella,  :dance1:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on December 21, 2013, 01:59:17 pm
Always nice to have your nuts resting in  a dirty crack......
;D Cheers
Title: New Year Turkey.
Post by: comPiler on January 06, 2014, 06:00:06 pm
New Year Turkey. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/01/new-year-turkey.html)
6 January 2014, 12:31 pm



I had roast beef for Christmas dinner so had to make up the turkey quotient by going to Turkey over New Year. After a great trad year, a decent amount of training, and plenty of syke, I was hoping to focus on pushing myself and tackling some good challenges. However it turned out to be the least worthwhile trip I've been on in years (ever since the ridiculous "perfect below 0'c winter conditions somehow turning into rain that somehow froze to the rocks" Font debacle of NYE 2007). This was due to a few factors:

Firstly the weather was distinctly mixed / fairly bollox (depending on what one expects). Arrive in a torrential storm, one day of torrential rain, one dryish day, 2 sunny and 1 other dry day, one day of torrential rain and leave after another morning of light rain. That makes for 4 1/2 days climbing, out of which 3 days the conditions were suitable for choosing any route rather than only perma-dry ones.

Secondly I was climbing with a couple and a small child - albeit a very dedicated climbing couple, and I had been warned "oh climbing with them will knacker you out, you'll be doing loads of climbing while they alternate childcare". However it didn't work out like that and was actually climbing as a team of 3 with mixed abilities and sometimes a kid to organise. It took me a while to adjust to that.

Thirdly it was the busiest place I can recall climbing at. The Works on a rainy Sunday?? Pffft, nothing compared to the Sarkit caves on a rainy Saturday. Obviously there was queuing for routes, having to jump on what you can whether you're ready or not, moving the family basecamp around etc. Which might have been fine if it wasn't for the fucking Russians and Ukranians, who where generally a bunch of ill-mannered imbeciles whose response to busy crags was to do laps on routes people were waiting for and set up top-ropes spanning two adjacent routes and then mumble "Yes is busy" as if that is an excuse for selfish behaviour rather than a good reason to be more considerate. Fuck off back to your Eastern Bloc shitholes as far as I am concerned.

All of which meant it was hard to warm up (I spent the first two entire days permanently cold), hard to get any momentum going, hard to get on the right routes at the right time, and hard to fit enough good climbing into shorter days. I ended up doing a few days of reasonable easy mileage and some fun face climbing - okay so F6-anything is pretty much a warm-up / descent / active-rest route, but I ended up doing them swiftly and smoothly enough. Also on the plus side, I got plenty of sleep, didn't get any more tweaky, and ate a fair bit of nice Turkish food that was generally hearty and healthy - so although I didn't progress on the trip, I didn't regress either. A good session at TCA (yup I got back and felt I needed to get training ASAP) last night has confirmed that - decent skin and surprisingly "Not Weak".

The highlight of the trip?? This...

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m3XR-v206yo/UsqbxF4KAII/AAAAAAAABCU/wyUvb_x-M4I/s1600/mrdribble1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m3XR-v206yo/UsqbxF4KAII/AAAAAAAABCU/wyUvb_x-M4I/s1600/mrdribble1.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bqeigfm30qg/UsqbyQiKHSI/AAAAAAAABCk/xGRtNQa7EBo/s1600/mrdribble2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bqeigfm30qg/UsqbyQiKHSI/AAAAAAAABCk/xGRtNQa7EBo/s1600/mrdribble2.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nrskbPhWAec/Usqbx9aUMgI/AAAAAAAABCc/UIFdOtjtr3A/s1600/mrdribble3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nrskbPhWAec/Usqbx9aUMgI/AAAAAAAABCc/UIFdOtjtr3A/s1600/mrdribble3.jpg)

MR DRIBBLE! The guesthouse was festooned with both pampered indoor cats and adequately fed outdoor cats, and as well as Mr Fluff, Ms Pretty Cat, and Tiny Black Cat With A Huge Purr, Mr Dribble was a personal favourite. His evening rounds of going from lap to lap alternated with flopping on the floor and displaying a fine pair of ginger marbles for all to see. Most guests were amused, while I was quite happy to have some cat therapy and didn't even mind him "washing" my climbing wounds with a damp nose (hey the showers were often only luke-warm anyway). He even ended up perched on my hire car the day I left to say goodbye. Well goodbye Mr Dribble, goodbye Turkey (not sure I'd go back unless it was perfect conditions at a quiet time - I can get a much easier generic Euro-lime fix in Spain), hello equally rainy Glasgow and hello more training and hopefully some sneaky days out on sandstone and grit??



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: 2013....look away now...
Post by: comPiler on January 08, 2014, 12:00:14 am
2013....look away now... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/01/2013look-away-now.html)
7 January 2014, 10:56 pm



Yes it's numbers. UGH. How coarse, how oafish, how uncouth. Well I spend 95% of the year avoiding them other than as a useful guide to a likely challenge, so forgive me if I spend a solitary post amusing myself. As the half dozen regular readers might spot I have done a lot of good climbing this year - not in terms of quantity but in terms of quality and pleasure and personal difficulty. I've not got any philosophical musings this time, just a simple list of the hardest trad routes I did, in rough order of grade band difficulty, and with a few possible corrections.

Of course I've included a more relevant and significant number - a rating out of 10 as to how much I was enjoying the climb at the time, being on the route, going through the process (even if it was hard). For most of these, it's really rather high, in fact some of them I'd have to crank the rating up to 11 to summarise how enjoyable they were ;). And that's all the justification I needed...

E5...

Lady Charlotte E5 6a *** 8/10

On The Beach E5 6a *** 9/10

The Final Solution E5 6a *** 9/10

The Purr-Blind Doomster E5 6a *** 10/10+

Neart Nan Gaidheal E5 6a *** 9/10

Triode E5 6a ** 10/10+

Colder Thank A Hooker's Heart E5 5c ** 10/10+

Cleopatra's Asp E5 6a ** 10/10

Smith's Arete E5 6a *** (E4) 9/10

Nijinski E5 6a *** (E4) 9/10

The Prow E5 6a ** (E4) 9/10

E4...

Breaking Strain E4 6a *** (E5) 10/10

Risque Grapefruit E4 5c ** 7/10

Wall Of Flame E4 6a *** 10/10+

Bratach Uaine E4 6a *** 8/10

Macdonald E4 6a ** 9/10

Cocaine E4 6a *** 10/10

Aesthetic Ape E4 6a ** 10/10

Timpani Wall E4 6a *** 9/10

Downies Syndrome E4 6a *** 9/10

Constipation E4 6a ** 9/10

The Tube E4 5c *** 10/10+

Aussie Rules E4 6a *** 10/10

Wally 2 E4 5c ** 9/10

Exasperated Escapologist E4 6a *** 10/10

Awesome E4 6a ** 8/10

Deep Wells route E4 5c *** 9/10

Infinity E4 5c *** 9/10

Black September E4 6a ** 8/10

Pettifar's Wall E4 6a ** 10/10

Stanleyville E4 5c ** 9/10

The Beautician E4 5c ** (E3) 9/10

On The Verge E4 5c ** (E3) 9/10

Dark Island E4 6a *** (E3) 10/10+

Public Spirited Individual E3 5c ** (E4 6a) 8/10

Economy Drive E3 6a ** (E4) 10/10

Reccoco E3/4 5c ** 8/10

+ 40 odd E3s

What will happen in 2014, god only knows. I've got some ideas - Pedriza, Berdorf, Pfalz all in colder weather, more grit, more slabs, travelling or moving back down to the UK to do more Welsh and SW esoterica - but nothing particularly pressing other than doing some more great climbing if I can.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Winter Wankery.
Post by: comPiler on January 17, 2014, 06:00:09 pm
Winter Wankery. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/01/winter-wankery.html)
17 January 2014, 2:44 pm



Facebook could do an awful lot to sort their shit out: Cut into their quadrillion dollar profits and reduce the advert spam a little, make photo album organisation less vomitously awful, either stop treating their users like cattle or at least stop the facetious pretence that they aren't, make the world's biggest site even the slightest bit user-friendly (although I bet if you're an advertiser spunking money down their throat it's set up as slickly and smoothly as an oiled seal). But the one thing I'd really like is to have some auto-filter for posted photographs that immediately blocks winter climbing photos. Plenty of my Facebook friends I'm sure are lovely people and I've found them great fun to be with for 8 months of the year, but winter climbing is a repugnant turd of an activity and I don't really need to see photos of it any more than I need to see photos of over-priced bike parts or baby's first potty success or what it looks like sharing a pint with some other people I don't know, or any other paint-drying visual sleeping pills. Hang on a sec, let me email Dulux and see what they have in their "Extra Slow Drying With No Colour Nor Texture Change" range. I know what a snowy cliff looks like, it looks like a cliff that is too fucked up with snow and ice to be worth climbing, gods winter in Scotland is bad enough without hammering it home every 5 posts. At least there is still Professor Tristram Brubaker keeping me up to date with current affairs and the Lyons posting some proper sport climbing videos, but then again Tris has been slacking off with the Daily Mash links and Lyons has started posting vegan propaganda too, something that is even more evil than winter climbing, although still some way below the instant-defriend spam of Yes Scotland hysteria posts. Still, at least there are still cat videos, can't ever get bored of cat videos.

Anyway, where was I?? Of yes, bouldering. I'm not sure it's even been a good winter for that yet, although I don't really know as I haven't been doing any until recently. It was good enough for snatch trad days before the year rolled over, and that was good enough for me. But now there is a certain grey, sapping bleakness in the air and it feels more suitable to lounge on a mat than dangle on a rope - well until I can get back down to the grit, anyway. Having done quite a lot (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/scottish-bouldering-favourites.html) of the most inspiring problems I can do in Scotland in recent years, I've not got that much I'm keen for without going completely off piste (a relative term given that even 3 star classics away from Dumby/Porty can fee like unclimbed problems) or commuting up to Torridon on a regular basis. So I've just been dicking around in the County a bit, or trying to at least:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v8OjhfruXU8/Utk_sFTrjhI/AAAAAAAABC0/JDpkSj6EEb0/s1600/fiend_minipower.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v8OjhfruXU8/Utk_sFTrjhI/AAAAAAAABC0/JDpkSj6EEb0/s1600/fiend_minipower.jpg)

Shaftoe: a fuck of a long drive as always although for once the A68 was mercifully quiet. Problems of interest were: Classic Arete, very cool and involved for an easier problem with a proper mollusc grovel to finish as the top-out was slimey (possibly more so after I'd been on it), Mini Power (above) which is an ace problem, I'd tried this before but with a full on slap off razor crimps high above a sloping landing had backed off. This time team syke and 4 pads helped although it still took a few goes and a few mm off my finger skin. Finally tried Smooth Wall again, redialled the sequence nicely but ran out of skin / daylight / will to live. I'm sure I will get it although I've realised of course it is quite morpho as lanky fucks can keep their left foot on whilst slapping again for the top, I actually have to properly rock over crimping on a low smear for my left and an even worse high smear for my right. Still maybe 3rd time lucky....

Garleigh: a 2:20 hour drive in glorious sunshine to an open and exposed craglet....to discover it is wetter than a cod's cunt?? Oh yes please that sounds fun. On the other hand it does look like a very nice gentle-heighted mileage venue, so I will be back later in the spring.

Back Bowden: by this time the glorious sunlight had faded and there wasn't long before all the light faded too. Unfortunately Mantel Misery and Mantel Masterclass were gopping too (WTF is it with the County at the moment?? Too windy in a westerly, too damp in anything that isn't a westerly...), I pottered around on some easier warm-ups, and tried: B4 Traverse - seems quite cool but needs colder conditions and I couldn't be arsed working it, Pick Pocket - absolutely laughable at V4, I could barely work out a V6 sequence that might involve a smeary dyno off a 1/5th pad 3 finger crimp, let alone anything sensible, and finally Flying Leap - which is more complete bullshit in both description and grade (positive holds? V2 dyno? Uh....HUH) but on the other hand I did work out a very cool natural V4/5 wall problem climbing up on tiny holds and tenous bridging. Ran out of daylight but I will be back for that. The roofs were too cold so will be back for those too.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on January 17, 2014, 07:55:18 pm
While on the subject of Facebook, have you ever wondered if others don't really care about your taste in music and pictures of the toys you've been painting either? Got to take the smooth with the rough.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 17, 2014, 09:17:29 pm
 :o Never thought anyone would bring that up  ::)

I try to educate you poor heathens with quality extreme music. And haven't had any complaints about the toy soldiers, not that I paint enough to overwhelm FB with posts about then....
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: GCW on January 17, 2014, 10:17:57 pm
I'd somehow missed the Carcass post. I've read it now. It was crap.

But I bet Carcass were awefuckingsome.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fultonius on January 20, 2014, 08:58:44 am
:o Never thought anyone would bring that up  ::)

I try to educate you poor heathens with quality extreme music. And haven't had any complaints about the toy soldiers, not that I paint enough to overwhelm FB with posts about then....

You could just "unfollow" people until spring?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 20, 2014, 10:06:34 am
But then I might miss out on essential soup discussion  :(
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: rginns on January 20, 2014, 10:55:00 am
nice anti-white-stuff vitriol... :boxing: :2thumbsup:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fultonius on January 20, 2014, 03:51:57 pm
But then I might miss out on essential soup discussion  :(

I wasn't talking about unfollowing ME. You can't fucking do THAT! It's not like I post annoying snow-related pictures all winter  ::)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 20, 2014, 05:52:45 pm
Yours have planks in. That is a valid use of winter  :smirk:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Bonjoy on January 20, 2014, 09:04:50 pm
I was agreeing with you about FB, then scrolled up a bit and saw three near identical pictures of you stroking a cat...  :slap:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 20, 2014, 09:13:50 pm
He was a really sweet cat!!
Title: Back in Pedriza.
Post by: comPiler on January 23, 2014, 11:45:18 pm
Back in Pedriza. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/01/back-in-pedriza.html)
23 January 2014, 9:46 pm



2011. Easter. 20+°C temps every day. No slab practise. No training. Completely unprepared. Pedriza slabs were unbelievably hard, F6a was desperate, F6b was my limit (compared to F6c/7a elsewhere).

2014. Mid-winter. 5-10°C forecast daily. Some very reassuring slab mileage on grit and in Scotland. Specific gym training for calves and leg presses. Very aware of the challenges. Pedriza slabs ARE unbelievably hard....

Day 1:

F6a+ slab - succeeded - F6b? Sustained English 5c

F6b slab - failed - F6b+/c? Sustained 5c/6a - slipped off by making a slight foot mistake near the top.

F6c slab - failed - F6c? 6a crux - fell off trying a slightly wrong line, could have done it

F6c+ slab - failed - ??? - fell off a very hard crux with a hidden hold.

F6b slab - failed - F7a? Sustained 6a/b(!) - fell off after 5m of the hardest slab climbing I have ever done on lead.

F6c+ face - failed - ??? - fell off a desperate (6b?) rockover at start.

F6c steep wall - cruised -  F6b/+ Easy.

But maybe I'm not good at slabs? Maybe I haven't done enough slabs recently? Except in my 2013 Of Climbing The Best I Ever Had, I did plenty of good varied slabs in the autumn and winter. According to the Rockfax conversion for bold routes (http://www.ukclimbing.com/databases/crags/trad_grade_bold.gif) (which gives relatively lower sport grades), some recent ascents look like this:

DIY E3 6a - F6b+ - English 6a solo crux at 4m

Stanleyville E4 5c - F6b+ - 5c cruxes before and next to poor cam

The Beautician E3/4 5c - F6b - 5c crux runout from good fear

Hunky Dory E3 5c - F6b - 5b/c finish with gear by feet

4 Pebble Slab E3 5c - F6a+/b - 5b friction moves 5m above gear

Nijinski E5 6a - F6c/+ - 5c/6a rockover and swing with distant side-gear

On The Verge E3/4 5c - F6b - one 5c crux next to gear, a bit of bold 5b

Risque Grapefruit E4 5c - F6b+ - blind 5c crux with 10m groundfall

Triode E5 6a - F6c - a couple of steady 6a moves with distant side-gear

On The Beach E5 6a - F6c+ - 6m runout of sustained 5c/6a

Wall Of Flame E4 6a - F6c/+ - 5m runout of continuous 5c

Rosehearty route E3 5c - F6b/+ - a few positive 5c moves

Riders On The Storm E3 5c - F6b - 5b/c with bad gear

Scimitar route E3 5c - F6b - a few fiddly 5b/c moves with okay gear

In short, I have been cruising runout F6b and regularly doing bold F6c with enough determination. So actual F6b / F6c sport slabs should be okay??.......Hmmmmm!!

So that's day one and I the one thing I am now fully confident of is that Pedriza grades are pure mierda de las cabras.

Not sure what will happen in subsequent days but I am trying to treat it as a learning process....even if I have to do small numbers, it should be great training for slabs back home.

Further updates as I learn enough Spanish swearing to describe it!

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Day 2: Da fuck?
Post by: comPiler on January 25, 2014, 12:00:06 am
Day 2: Da fuck? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/01/day-2-da-fuck.html)
24 January 2014, 9:27 pm



....kinda went like this:

F6a - succeeded - F6a-ish - 5c start then padding

F6b - succeeded - F6b-ish - 6a start then padding.

F6c - fell off thin start - F6c bloc - not inspiring

F6a+ - succeeded - F6b/+ - scary friction

F6b+ - succeeded - F6c+, 10m of sustained 6a/5c, mentally draining

F6c+ - succeeded - F6c+ - hard but fair

F6c+ - succeeded - F6c+ - thinly crimpy but fair

F7a - fell off hard crux - F7a - similar but stretchier crux

So I did the sort of thing I have been aspiring to do. It helped a bit that conditions were amazing later on - proper grit friction style - the F6b+ was mind-warpingly hard and "warmed me up" (i.e. I had to sit down and shake a bit afterwards), and both F6c+s were really very good, the first one being perfectly balanced immaculate slab desperation. The main conclusion I can draw from this and previous experiences, so far, is that the Pedriza grade reality goes something like:

F6a = F6b

F6a+ = F6b+

F6b =F6c

F6b+ = F6c

F6c = F6c

F6c+ = F6c+

F7a = F7a??

Below F6c is such bollox that I might as well not try "easier" routes apart from token warm-ups as they are just as hard as the harder routes?? Too tired to draw any more conclusions for now....dunno what will happen tomorrow but I will try to keep an open beginner's mind.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Day 3: The Inbetweener.
Post by: comPiler on January 26, 2014, 12:00:10 am
Day 3: The Inbetweener. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/01/day-3-inbetweener.html)
25 January 2014, 9:35 pm



A bit of this (shocking success), a bit of that (merciless failure)...

F6a - succeeded -F6a+? - by the skin of my teeth, felt like solid 5c for several metres.

F6b+ - succeeded - F6b+ - fierce 6a start, delicate above.

F6c+ - succeeded - F6c+ - vertical bouldering with rests, not the usual weirdness.

F6c+ - failed - F6c+/7a - pure desperation on non-existent micro-holds

F7a - failed - F7a - hard but missed hold in break, doh.

F6c+ - succeeded - F6c+/c - maybe even soft touch? Bouldery but brief.

F6c - failed - ungradeable - 8m of pure friction with every move English 6a.

The successes were sometimes not pure slab stuff but still good fun. Some of these were not pure failures due to pure mierda de las cabras grading, and thus some of them were a bit annoying. The F6c+ was ridiculously hard moves so that's that. The F7a was very close and I think I would have done it if I'd looked around more (maybe easier said that done when your eyes are on stalks from all the slab desperation), and the abominable F6c, well it was a surreally desperate experience but I only slipped off randomly a few moves from salvation. BLEH.

Learnings today included that: I really like griffon vultures and goats, breeze is crucial for optimum friction, Balvennie Double Wood tastes pretty nice at the crag, I am a bit hampered by my inflexible right ankle from an old break, very subtle variances in angle make a huge difference on friction slabs, and some of Pedriza is still as fucking random as ever.

Tomorrow....will I have any skin left??



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Days 4/5/6: The Final Battle
Post by: comPiler on January 29, 2014, 12:00:10 pm
Days 4/5/6: The Final Battle (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/01/days-456-final-battle.html)
29 January 2014, 11:40 am



All mashed in to one because not a lot happened:

Day 4:

Patones limestone of no real consequence although I did do a really nice route with a proper deep mono crux and a big undercling span finish. I spent most of the day feeling sick because I'd had too much coffee and not enough food, and Antonio twatted his A2 pulley on the 2nd route of the afternoon. Mierda.

Day 5:

F6b - succeeded - F6b+? - tenuous 6a smearing crux

F6b - succeeded - F6b+? - continuous 5c for many metres

The perfect continental winter sun day: climbing at 1200m, in the shade, on frozen rock, with a icy NW wind howling down from snowcapped peaks at 2200m.... ummmmm. For a brief moment, while there was a briefer respite in the gale, the conditions felt like the best friction conditions ever, perfectly dry and perfectly crisp. Which made if all the more galling to have to walk away from a well bolted sheet of F6c-F6c+ slabs after just one "warm-up" route. So we went around to a sunny face on the far side of the massif and did one route in very pleasant temperatures, clipped the first bolt on another route, and then it snowed. Mierda.

Day 6:

V5 - succeeded - slab in 5 goes - classic bloc problem

F6b+ - succeeded - F6b+ - vertical face, sharp

F6c+ - failed - F6c+ - vertical face, jump crux for the short, silly

F7a - failed - F7a - vertical face, mis-read crux

E1 5b - succeeded - E1 5b - offwidth, good fun

F6c+ - failed - F6c+ - did all cruxes but slipped off scrittle at top

The forecast for Pedriza itself so we diverted to a small local area at an outskirt town, a mini-Pedriza....a Pedrizita! This was okay and we climbed most of the day whilst god knows what sort of precipitation hit the main area. The highlight was a beautiful slab boulder problem, with either good handholds (1/3 pad single crystals), or good footholds (1/3 pad micro-smears), but never both. The F7a failure was disappointing as it was a good climb and a simple mistake, the F6c+ was also disappointing as I'd done some proper Pedriza desperation on it and just got too casual on the top - it would have been a good punctuation to the trip. Mierda.

Today would have been Day 7 and the current weather is cool cloudy and fresh, just a pity about the big dump of snow on Pedriza last night. Skiing down the slabs would be more feasible than climbing up so that is the end of that. Mierda....but it's still been a good trip...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Pedriza Post-Padding Analysis.
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2014, 06:00:09 pm
Pedriza Post-Padding Analysis. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/01/pedriza-post-padding-analysis.html)
30 January 2014, 12:50 pm



So a rare return match for me - but to a fascinating (and frustrating!) area that definitely warrants it, and will warrant more in future... My goal had been to climb in better conditions, and hopefully climb some routes around F6c (most likely) or F7a (my usual comfortable onsight limit). I sort of did that, it was a close thing.

The final score of pure slabs: climbed / failed after proper attempt:

F6b: 3 / 2*

F6b+: 2** / -

F6c: 1 / 2

F6c+: 3 / 3***

F7a: - / 2****

* - one failed route actually F7a

** - one success actually F6c+

*** - one fail partly due to heat, one fail partly due to scrittle

**** - one fail due to missing good hold

(the rest cos they were fucking nails and I wasn't good enough....no excuses)

Not a great success rate but not a bad one either. Being foiled by some circumstances - heat on day 1, icy cold on day 5 - and a few avoidable mistakes - gives me a bit of reassurance that I was starting to do okay. More importantly I was finding it even more interesting than before. So yeah, I plan to go back, quick hit style, not least because one's fingertips only last a maximum of 4 days!!. Later or earlier in winter, last minute flights on a good forecast, camping cabin....who is up for it??

Further to my previous flailings, I have learnt a few more tricks of the trade this time:

1. Be prepared for mind-numbing levels of difficulty. Even around the F6c mark where routes start to be one grade undergraded rather than several, the continuously thin desperation is a real shock to the system. What might form 3-4m of crux climbing between breaks in a gritstone E4 is extended to 20m with no respite on a Pedriza F6b+. Be warned!

2. Conditions are crucial, in particular a light breeze is essential. Given La Pedriza is the foot-mountains of a 2000m range rising above the Madrid plateau, this is usefully likely.

3. Marking footholds is useful in a sea of obtusely homogenous granite crystals, but more importantly marking a wide variety of footholds to give a choice of moves once committed.

4. Feeling around for handholds is essential. One never knows when a useful 1/5 pad ripple might be hiding behind those same dastardly crystals.

5. Tight shoes with a bit of an edge seem to be marginally more useful than soft smearing shoes. The former can work better on the pure friction sections than the latter can work on the tiny crystal / gratton sections.

6. Chalking and drying one's thumbs can be very useful, both for tiny thumb crystals (essentially pinching a blank slab!), and thumb press mantles.

7. A slick rope and an alert belay are really useful. Although most slabs are well bolted, the constant insecurity can make pulling up rope to clip scarier than actual trad climbing!

8. Never relax until the chain is clipped. Even the easier sections are only "less hard" rather than easy, and still entirely fluffable.

9. Physical training for high steps / single leg presses, and flexibilty are the most important. Calf / leg press training seemed less useful - generally my calves didn't get tired although my feet did.

10. Slab training should ideally include very small crystals / grattons (as common a difficulty as the smears), and also side-stepping on slabs as well as high-stepping, as many routes weave a bit to find the least awful non-holds.

Hopefully I can get down to the grit soon and put some of this into practise...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Pedriza photo dump.
Post by: comPiler on January 31, 2014, 06:00:08 pm
Pedriza photo dump. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/01/pedriza-photo-dump.html)
31 January 2014, 12:17 pm



Too many from my shitty phone, sorry. No captions. Add your own.

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RZYcZCUSQhA/Uupf_kDf-II/AAAAAAAABEI/sAjAxPAc568/s1600/ped_plane.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RZYcZCUSQhA/Uupf_kDf-II/AAAAAAAABEI/sAjAxPAc568/s1600/ped_plane.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xs01hC-ilLo/Uupf9qGNt7I/AAAAAAAABD0/3Pb8cuj8Cxg/s1600/ped_perrita1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xs01hC-ilLo/Uupf9qGNt7I/AAAAAAAABD0/3Pb8cuj8Cxg/s1600/ped_perrita1.jpg)

 (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0USQzFcvc4k/Uupf-wR2VHI/AAAAAAAABEA/KJ55Hz1CIbY/s1600/ped_perrita3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0USQzFcvc4k/Uupf-wR2VHI/AAAAAAAABEA/KJ55Hz1CIbY/s1600/ped_perrita3.jpg)  (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fNKU-Xj_oxw/Uupf-JFAxaI/AAAAAAAABD4/syNSZw2QPW0/s1600/ped_perrita2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fNKU-Xj_oxw/Uupf-JFAxaI/AAAAAAAABD4/syNSZw2QPW0/s1600/ped_perrita2.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2cY4t0PKp-o/Uupf6IY8CqI/AAAAAAAABDI/yEznM8xDGEM/s1600/ped_blue.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2cY4t0PKp-o/Uupf6IY8CqI/AAAAAAAABDI/yEznM8xDGEM/s1600/ped_blue.jpg)  (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HR_NQ5TrfXI/Uupf7IiRgEI/AAAAAAAABDY/HBwqTs0lXUM/s1600/ped_cabra1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HR_NQ5TrfXI/Uupf7IiRgEI/AAAAAAAABDY/HBwqTs0lXUM/s1600/ped_cabra1.jpg)  (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A6B7ElAsqkQ/Uupf64IS3uI/AAAAAAAABDU/cap4EC23s5Y/s1600/ped_goat.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A6B7ElAsqkQ/Uupf64IS3uI/AAAAAAAABDU/cap4EC23s5Y/s1600/ped_goat.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WrhdUcn44lM/Uupf74KET8I/AAAAAAAABDg/a3_N7Hoo-8U/s1600/ped_madrid.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WrhdUcn44lM/Uupf74KET8I/AAAAAAAABDg/a3_N7Hoo-8U/s1600/ped_madrid.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3hP5QYNrZts/UupgAsmuV-I/AAAAAAAABEQ/WfVZUVGJyWs/s1600/ped_postoffice.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3hP5QYNrZts/UupgAsmuV-I/AAAAAAAABEQ/WfVZUVGJyWs/s1600/ped_postoffice.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EDxehEHE1Z4/Uupf8pjTrcI/AAAAAAAABDo/Efhb5HTJJzM/s1600/ped_mask.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EDxehEHE1Z4/Uupf8pjTrcI/AAAAAAAABDo/Efhb5HTJJzM/s1600/ped_mask.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-775CVtNE7Zk/UupgCI4c23I/AAAAAAAABEg/AegEsPb0EMo/s1600/ped_spunk.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-775CVtNE7Zk/UupgCI4c23I/AAAAAAAABEg/AegEsPb0EMo/s1600/ped_spunk.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N4fmvyyijAk/UupgBBalAKI/AAAAAAAABEY/RfZFK-uVaDg/s1600/ped_shark.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N4fmvyyijAk/UupgBBalAKI/AAAAAAAABEY/RfZFK-uVaDg/s1600/ped_shark.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Wankers Wrist.
Post by: comPiler on February 05, 2014, 12:00:31 am
Wankers Wrist. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/02/wankers-wrist.html)
4 February 2014, 7:50 pm



...or maybe not enough wanking?? I have somehow picked up a tendinopathy on the inside of my wrist on the little finger side. This "appeared" without any obvious cause sometime during the latter stages of the easy-ish green circuit at TCA. I'd warmed up well with a hobbling micro-run, felt fine on the circuit, and somehow during the last few problems my wrist started hurting, especially on any occasions where I was moving it relative to my hand. I stopped after a couple more problems, went home and iced it, but found I couldn't even slide a wok around whilst cooking a stir-fry. The next day it was hurting more so I went to the New Victoria MIU in case it was broken. Swift service there and some prodding, pressing and pulling gave a diagnosis of tendonitis. Wrist injuries are outside my "comfort zone" of A2 pulley tweaks, golfer's elbow and shoulder impingements, so I booked a physio appointment too - well justified as it is still hurting today in quite a few minor movements, rotation especially. The more indepth physio diagnosis was the same, some form of tendonitis / tendinopathy, as was the treatment: Rest, ice, anti-inflammatories (which I'm not supposed to take being on Warfarin, i.e. I'll sure as hell take them and hope it all calms down before my next INR reading), reduced mobility, massaging forearm muscles, then gently stretching the wrist. Once every day stir-frying / general motions are pain-free, ease back into climbing with shorter sessions, and combine this with general wrist exercises. Continue with CV / any exercise that doesn't aggravate it in the meantime.

Bollox.

Funnily enough I am syked for:

1. Gritstone slabs.

2. Training hard and training lots to get my strength up for the spring season.

...and not at all syked for:

1. Resting, icing, stretching, massaging, and not fucking climbing.

On the plus side, the weather is shit, the forecast is shit, so whilst I'm missing out on training at least I'm not missing out on any prime conditions. And I can still do plenty of CV exercise, especially the fucking lower limb shit I loathe and am too crippled to do effectively anyway. However, I did go swimming and that went okay so if I can put up with the soul-destroying tedium of that then maybe it is a good time to get a bit leaner and fitter. I shall see how it goes.

In the meantime, this soundtrack accurately sums up my vibe:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJyq8hgs7hQ



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: Wankers Wrist.
Post by: Muenchener on February 05, 2014, 07:06:43 am
Oh dear. You have my sympathy.

However, I did go swimming and that went okay so if I can put up with the soul-destroying tedium of that then maybe it is a good time to get a bit leaner and fitter.

I enjoy swimming in the the sea and lakes, and often think it would be nice to be better at it. But then I always quickly realise that tediously grinding up & down a crowded, chlorine-stinking pool for hours is a price I'm not willing to pay. Climbing walls may be inferior to the real thing, but they can be at least somewhat fun.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 05, 2014, 11:27:48 am
Cheers Munchy. It's feeling a bit better today and the diagnosis and prognosis I got seem sensible.

Aye pool swimming is a fucking bore, even though I enjoy the actual movement of swimming. Hell I'd even rather go to the gym. But the prospect of not training at all is more boring!
Title: Wanky Weeks 1 - 4.
Post by: comPiler on March 02, 2014, 06:00:11 pm
Wanky Weeks 1 - 4. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/03/wanky-weeks-1-4.html)
2 March 2014, 3:05 pm



No updates because nothing to update about. But I thought I'd just post something so that the 3 friends who read this have some idea what is going on...

And what is going on is that my wrist seems to be healing okay....really really fucking slowly.

I rested it completely for one week, then tried some gentle wrist curls as the physio suggested. I used 7 kg instead of my default 12kg which I regularly use for pain-free anti-golfer's-elbow eccentric wrist curls. I did a few sets of those and it bloody hurt.

So I rested it completely for another week. It still a bit hurt to do wok-shaking during stir-frying, brushing cups during washing up, even turning keys in locks.

So I rested it completely for another week, then went for a gentle session at the wall. Well, sort of gentle session. I met a friend there and got encouraged onto some slightly harder problems than I should be on....maybe even V2 or V3, bletch. I managed to drop off most problems that felt at all tweaky, but even some easier ones on side-pull pockets and jugs felt bad....anything that started my wrist moving or rotating on holds. Small holds, tiny crimps, and straight pulling felt okay. To that end, I had a hunch and went on the Beastmaker for a bit....I could hang the 30' slopers and smallest crimps very comfortably - i.e. NO pain at all. I couldn't do the slightest pull-up on the slopers as my wrist started moving, but could do pull-ups including an equal PB of 4 on the smallest crimps. Hmmm. Maybe this was not the best plan? It was a bit tender for a couple of days after and is slightly better now but still feels stiff and prone to random tweaking. I can do the washing up mostly pain-free, woooot fuck my life.

So I've rested it completely for yet another week. I am now really fucking bored of resting it- and really fucking depressed with trying to motivate myself to go running (fucking awful and depressing experience....just reminds me I'm crippled), swimming (boring and wet although I did do a mile for the first time the other week), and going to the gym (which I haven't done as I just feel weak and unconfident with an injured wrist). I've managed to do just about enough exercise to survive but not nearly enough to feel fit or healthy. So I need to kick myself up the arse.....or in an ideal world have friends and companions around to kick me and do it with me (pipe dreams!), and get more focused on general training. Hopefully some more strictly light / non-tweaky wall sessions soon can give me the momentum to do so....



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Revisitations, and reverting to punterdom...
Post by: comPiler on March 16, 2014, 12:00:16 pm
Revisitations, and reverting to punterdom... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/03/revisitations-and-reverting-to-punterdom.html)
16 March 2014, 11:49 am



I had a bit of an escape to the grit recently, well timed with perfectly dry and far too warm weather. I previous week I'd got back into training with 3 indoor wall sessions and 2 gym sessions, most of which had gone okay once I'd learnt my limits with my wrist. This trip I put that into action by being fairly crap on everything but easy slabs, although thankfully there were enough of those for it to be fun overall. This trip was mostly about Yorkshire Grit, which I used to visit regularly when I first moved up to Sheffield, in a contrary bid to avoid the Peaks. Thus I went to a lot of crags a dozen years ago, and mostly explored at a fairly punterly standard. This time....I mostly explored at a fairly punterly standard...

Crookrise...

A few months ago I'd have hopefully taken advantage of good crisp friction and played around on Walkover, before using Hovis as a mere warm-up for it's direct variants of Wholemeal and Mighty White and hopefully even Small Brown.

This time it was boiling hot and I was restricted to strictly mid-grade bumbling:

Walker's Wall - pleasant enough.

Winter Traverse - quite scary with an odd escape finish.

Premium White - soft-touch eliminate.

Family Matters - very good value with two top end cruxes.

Hovis - quite okay in the end but only possible at dusk when it had cooled down.

Hovis was a bit of a perculiar one, as recent discussion has shown that even usually sensible and intelligent friends have the ability to talk complete cobblers about their local crags with a plethora of lines, variations, and eliminates. Hovis you step off a flake around onto a face and into a groove. There's also a direct start off the ground, a direct variation linking that, and a super direct with it's own extra looping variation. One could say the line is not obvious, except using common sense it is obvious: It was done by Joe Brown over half a century ago and you can damn well bet he was climbing the natural line of least resistance around into the groove rather than pissing around with "if I start a metre lower will I get the tick". I will eventually come back to piss around on other versions, but on the day there was only enough time at dusk to do the actual route.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CAFNbz-D5Lo/UyRECJHIo8I/AAAAAAAABEw/ikrtyCTZESc/s1600/fiend_hovis1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CAFNbz-D5Lo/UyRECJHIo8I/AAAAAAAABEw/ikrtyCTZESc/s1600/fiend_hovis1.jpg)Hovis

Ilkley...

A few months ago I'd have definitely been up for giving Wellington Crack (gruesome pumpfest but I was trad fit last year) a go, after a retro-flash of Tufted Crack (failed on this 12 years ago) of course.

This time such shenanigans were clearly out of the question, so it was a mixed pottering session:

 Bald Pate - top end of the grade, tastily bold and smeary.

Old Spice - bottom end of the grade, tastily bold and smeary.

Short Circuit - good cranking low down but quite dangerous higher up.

Sinister Rib - bottom end of the grade, tastily bold and smeary, this was actually really enjoyable and I romped up it in a couple of minutes.

I also attempted Nordwand - this is a rather cool route but the type of E2 5b that involves a tricky 5c sequence with an irreversible foothop into a hard all out 5c slap for a ledge with the gear distinctly beneath your feet, uh HUH. After a lot of faffing and garment-shedding to combat the warmth even in the shade, I did 95% of that crux, the 5% I didn't do was the one more inch required to get my fingers over the ledge. 6m lower and I'd added some good falling practise into the mix and am still cultivating a massive bruise on my thigh. Strangely I'm not that pissed off as I'd actually done the committing bit (eventually!) and a proper trad fall is perhaps as valuable as actually doing the route.

Running Hill Pits...

A few months ago I'd have been warming up on a retro-correct-line-onsight of Spanner Wall (failed to do the much more serious left hand entry 8 years ago), hopefully then adding Harvest Moon into the mix before moving on to Mangled Digit if dry and hopefully Calamity Crack (again truly horrific pumpfests but a standard angle for Scottish Climbing).

This time I was too weak for even vertical stuff so it was all about slabs, which are thankfully rather good fun there:

Content - fun but entirely morpho, a grade harder for me as I could only just get my tips on.

Weaver's Wall - not a soft touch, even with the plentiful gear in the slot, the upper reachy crux is pretty damn committing.

Windbreaker - does exactly what it promises, very steady and very bold.

Cochybondhu - quite sketchy! but at least with the option of falling rightwards and thus only the length of the route rather than the extra 4m...

Windbreaker I'd actually wanted to do in recent years because I never got around to it when I was there and said hovis-eliminate-pedant-but-otherwise-sound-bloke friend had it as his Shitbook profile picture for ages. It sort of nagged me in a "look, this has crimps and stuff and even though you're a fat weak and fucking injured punter, you could still crawl up it". So I did. It was interesting to compare this to Weaver's Wall, the other classic bold slab around this grade. W is much more serious, it has +4m fall potential before you even start and is a pure solo. WW is often soloed but has good micro-cams in a break and a shorter fall overall. So why is WW graded harder? Errrr....because it is. W is very easy 5b with the trickiest moves off the ledge and everything is in control. WW is very hard 5b with a committing and reachy crux to a distant off-balance hold and I suspect if you have enough rope out to do the move you have enough out to hit the ground. So although it's apples and oranges, it makes a harmonious and tasty fruit salad overall.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UjtkbFDbhxw/UyREMh5WKqI/AAAAAAAABE4/xL33Q0pzTwc/s1600/fiend_wind2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UjtkbFDbhxw/UyREMh5WKqI/AAAAAAAABE4/xL33Q0pzTwc/s1600/fiend_wind2.jpg)Windbreaker

Despite being hampered a bit by my wrist and a huge amount by my weakness and thus lack of any physical confidence, I did okay and my wrist seemed to cope with almost everything apart from tugging nuts too hard and pulling up the rope in a funny way. It stiffened up after I returned but this trip showed promise that I can start pottering around again...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: A potter here, a potter there.
Post by: comPiler on March 22, 2014, 06:00:21 pm
A potter here, a potter there. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/03/a-potter-here-potter-there.html)
22 March 2014, 12:22 pm



I've decided that a good rule of thumb while I am doing recovery mileage is to only go to crags that are new to me, or that I haven't been to in a decade. This narrows the choice of crags considerably, but ensure when I find the right crags, it gives a good choice of routes to potter around on. I've put this into action recently:

Drab Crag in Aberdeen, which I'd never been to, although I had been working down the coast south of Newtonhill in that direction: Dykes Cliff, then Boltsheugh, the Johnsheugh, then Brown Crag. I got plenty of mileage there and even got pumped a bit, which was nice.

Then it was down to Cumbria to King's Meaburn, which I'd been to a decade ago, and Coudy Rocks, the trendy new sport crag which hadn't even been climbed a decade ago - although Simmy, who I went to KM with, had spotted it and was telling me about these blank sandstone walls he wanted to develop. Well the bolters got there and with good reason as it's pretty much a sport only venue, of course that means all the numpties flock there to get their convenience McTicks and so King's Meaburn seems a bit neglected despite it being obviously the better craglet - although to be fair, the climbing at Coudy is genuinely fun for short quarried sandstone, less reachy and cranky and more technical than the Angus quarry morpho lankfest horrors. I did a few routes at each crag and actually started cranking a bit harder than usual which was a bit more satisfying, a bit more reassuring, and definitely more fun.

I also got to The Mighty R for an afternoon, and found that despite being so despairingly obese I was struggling to get my harness on (like my fucking legs need any more constrictions to the blood "flow"), I was climbing considerably better this time, and getting within 1-1œ grades of my usual limit. Again both reassuring and fun. My wrist is coping okay, it tends to be generally and consistently tender after climbing and/or in cold damp weather (woohoo!), BUT is definitely less tweaky, less sharp pains, and feels stronger. I haven't yet tested it swirling a wok around though....



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on March 22, 2014, 10:23:49 pm
Hit me up for access beta for Drab Crag. Easier access options than that in  NEO. On the left side the rock at the top isn't great and a bit gorsey on the top. I've got a recent pic if you want it
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 22, 2014, 10:28:08 pm
I went, it was nice for mileage.....surprisingly the approach description in NEO was correct, despite being in classic comedically obscure Newtonhill South style "go through the field until level with a fence-post, the head in a different direction to the 4th patch of gorse on the left etc etc"  :geek:
Title: The Tweaky Wrist Tweaklist...
Post by: comPiler on March 23, 2014, 12:00:28 am
The Tweaky Wrist Tweaklist... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/03/the-tweaky-wrist-tweaklist.html)
22 March 2014, 8:37 pm



Some ideas for recuperative cragging during the early spring, in rough order of preference:

Mull - Kintyre, Erraid - I've been before but the new guide has shown so much more, loads of little granite crags and sweet looking slabs.

Mid-Wales - Rhinnogs - Off piste for many climbers but a genuinely wonderful place with perfect exploratory cragging on great rock.

Glutton Crag, Ullapool - The latest and currently fashionable bolted Torridonian sandstone crag and looks spot-on for plentiful F5-6c mileage.

Tynrich Slab, Inverness - Just a neat slab in the tranquil Ruthven valley. A good mid-grade choice and I've heard good reports from an ex-local.

Glen Shian Slab, Glenfinnan -  Just a slab en-route to Mallaig, with a typically rapidly-downgraded Dave Mac E10 of course. Slightly harder route choice but a lovely bit of rock.

Beinn Ceanabeinne, North Coast - A great sounding slab that has been heartily recommended by a local. Throw in some good options at the Skerrary sea-cliffs and apparently there is a classic Simon Nadin bolted F6c slab up here too. Intrigued?

Callerhues, Northumberland - A bit burly but plenty of choice to go at.

All Doire Beith, Glen Coe - One of the roadside crags in the Glen, an accessible slabby wall.

Yorkshire gritstone - Rylstone etc - some good slabby trad here.

Yorkshire limestone - Giggleswick etc - some good slabby trad here too.

Canna - Another gem in the new guide, looks perfect for mid-grade cracks and grooves, all in an idyllic location.

Aberdeen sea-cliffs - Rob's Butt, Perdonlie Inlet, Seal's Caves - still some places I haven't been to that I can hopefully sneak in before the birds come back.

Cumbria - various crags - A reasonable choice at varied and accessible locations like Armathwaite, Carrock, Bramcrag, South Lakes Limestone etc.

Eagle-eyed readers will notice that most of these have good mid-grades slabby stuff, and/or are pretty accessible, and/or are sunny and amenable - for good reason. I don't have the fitness, confidence nor moral fortitude to be thrashing around at Creag Dubh nor Earnsheugh nor The Leaning Block nor Super-Crag etc....I need areas with plenty of easier choice and a welcoming "get on with it" feel. I'm interested in similar ideas / crags, I think I'm aware of most of them in Scotland but I might have missed something?? And of course I'm always interested in more people who are keen to explore with me in such places....



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on March 31, 2014, 10:20:01 am
I went, it was nice for mileage.....surprisingly the approach description in NEO was correct, despite being in classic comedically obscure Newtonhill South style "go through the field until level with a fence-post, the head in a different direction to the 4th patch of gorse on the left etc etc"  :geek:

Not saying the approach was wrong, just there are 2 options both of which provided quicker access. I could have pointed you at some good bouldering very nearby too.
Title: Opening the NW account.
Post by: comPiler on April 01, 2014, 07:00:21 pm
Opening the NW account. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/04/opening-nw-account.html)
1 April 2014, 2:25 pm



3rd year in a row getting to the North West in a fortuitously dry if cool spell in March?? Yes please. If there's a guaranteed way to liven the heart and alleviate the aches and pains, it's cruising along the A832 or A835 on a sunny morning with a rucsack full of chalk, a bag full of guidebooks and a car full of drum and bass. I'll let the pictures do the talking for this one, the only things they don't show is that my wrist is still recovering okay, it coped fine with more, and diverse, climbing, and that my head and confidence and passion are coming back pretty well, and that my plans to get to Glutton and Tynrich were spot on so those two crags are off the list but many more remain...

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kdKOX4nWD0I/UzrLOD6yJpI/AAAAAAAABGA/XjAyyKo4KIo/s1600/fiend_moy1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kdKOX4nWD0I/UzrLOD6yJpI/AAAAAAAABGA/XjAyyKo4KIo/s1600/fiend_moy1.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8krJLxqLQTw/UzrLOusOVEI/AAAAAAAABF4/ZKcTae9OrHU/s1600/fiend_moy2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8krJLxqLQTw/UzrLOusOVEI/AAAAAAAABF4/ZKcTae9OrHU/s1600/fiend_moy2.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lCy-qnggMnw/UzrLPb6zioI/AAAAAAAABGM/SE7LuYhKD6I/s1600/kinloch1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lCy-qnggMnw/UzrLPb6zioI/AAAAAAAABGM/SE7LuYhKD6I/s1600/kinloch1.jpg)

 (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2babfVkuUjs/UzrLN4UyneI/AAAAAAAABF0/-QCEcAWZFV8/s1600/fiend_ard1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2babfVkuUjs/UzrLN4UyneI/AAAAAAAABF0/-QCEcAWZFV8/s1600/fiend_ard1.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cSkZ1JJtqXE/UzrLb_-GzxI/AAAAAAAABGU/I5XuGHZm3Uw/s1600/fiend_glut1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cSkZ1JJtqXE/UzrLb_-GzxI/AAAAAAAABGU/I5XuGHZm3Uw/s1600/fiend_glut1.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VZZC55uPJTM/UzrLceQhvSI/AAAAAAAABGg/R0AGz9NqYwU/s1600/fiend_glut2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VZZC55uPJTM/UzrLceQhvSI/AAAAAAAABGg/R0AGz9NqYwU/s1600/fiend_glut2.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-izZEOtB0Ws0/UzrLdmqOYPI/AAAAAAAABGo/w2XZwnm66gU/s1600/glutview1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-izZEOtB0Ws0/UzrLdmqOYPI/AAAAAAAABGo/w2XZwnm66gU/s1600/glutview1.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MYrSywNvHUk/UzrLcZYlfvI/AAAAAAAABGY/sYc08X11ecg/s1600/fiend_tyr1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MYrSywNvHUk/UzrLcZYlfvI/AAAAAAAABGY/sYc08X11ecg/s1600/fiend_tyr1.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CuZ7o9epEQA/UzrLdEf80JI/AAAAAAAABG4/c21YJQj8_EU/s1600/fiend_tyr2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CuZ7o9epEQA/UzrLdEf80JI/AAAAAAAABG4/c21YJQj8_EU/s1600/fiend_tyr2.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on April 02, 2014, 10:38:55 am
Great godbeams photo.

Is Glutton the bolted one near Ardmair? Is there a topo about?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 02, 2014, 10:14:40 pm
Thank you. That photo hasn't got spitefully down-rated yet on UKC so I must have done something right (i.e. not winding anyone up on there recently). Unfortunately we couldn't stay for the sunset as the Ceilidh Place beckoned.

Yes it is that crag, YHM.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on April 03, 2014, 08:18:37 am
YHM.

Got it thanks
Title: Back to square zero...
Post by: comPiler on April 05, 2014, 07:00:11 pm
Back to square zero... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/04/back-to-square-zero.html)
5 April 2014, 1:07 pm



I've only had two sessions climbing this week:

The first one I did my hardest trad lead of the year so far and thus felt pretty confident about how my climbing was going :)

The second one I pushed myself training indoors and ended up with my wrist the sorest it has been since injuring it two months ago :(

Cuntflaps.

Anyway this was the day out at Glen Coe roadside crags, which were fairly accessible if completely hidden, bone dry despite the location, sheltered from the brisk easterly, and offered fine climbing despite their mossy appearance:

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QSVUfcVZl3o/Uz_857u1qlI/AAAAAAAABHY/3XV1N4p9X74/s1600/fiend_gc1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QSVUfcVZl3o/Uz_857u1qlI/AAAAAAAABHY/3XV1N4p9X74/s1600/fiend_gc1.jpg)Warming up on the soft touch Sweltering.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_pPUQDUpCVg/Uz_86fz-U-I/AAAAAAAABHc/kF3qrNAmygY/s1600/fiend_gca0.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_pPUQDUpCVg/Uz_86fz-U-I/AAAAAAAABHc/kF3qrNAmygY/s1600/fiend_gca0.jpg)Cranking through the crux on the non-soft touch Smouldering.

The latter took some effort committing first to a fingery 6a crux on the lower wall and then a bold 5c crux on the upper wall with few positive holds and only a C3 000 between me and a whopper whipper. All fun and rewarding stuff. Notice my taped up cranking right hand on the above photo - that is NOT the problem. Direct cranking on small sharp crimps has been fine on my wrist as it's locked in place with little rotating around. Conversely, forgetting about my wrist and flicking my walking pole up into the air and waving it to signal that I'd actually found the damn crag - that IS the problem. Combine that with some fairly cold climbing temperatures and it was a bit tweaky and susceptible.

Then I went down to GCC after a rest day and was trying pretty much as hard as normal on the steep stuff, and now it hurts pretty much all the fucking time. A restrained and gentle session after the Glen Coe tweaking would have been fine. A steep cranky session without a previous walking-pole-induced re-tweak might have been okay. Combining both has been a fucking cock-up. What do I always say to people about looking after injuries??  

 

"Be diligent - always keep aware and keep careful or you'll re-injure it"


Again, CUNTFLAPS.

Ice, rest, wrist-guard, very gentle training, vitamin I blah blah fucking blah.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Seperating wheat from chaff.
Post by: comPiler on April 15, 2014, 07:00:12 pm
Seperating wheat from chaff. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/04/seperating-wheat-from-chaff.html)
15 April 2014, 5:26 pm



I've always been rather fond of the North Yorkshire Moors / Cleveland Hills. I think I first went to Scugdale 17 years ago although I'm not exactly sure. I went to Goldsborough Carr in the evening and got a bit scared by the steepness, slept in my old 340, had a morning soloing at Scugdale and then shepherd's pie for lunch in Thirsk, marvelling at an area of a country that I'd never even seen before. The 1992 Orange guidebook was my bible for esoteric craglet exploration for a while. Later on it was replaced by the North East Outcrops guide in which the information was more plentiful and only a bit less esoteric. Sheffield replaced Nottingham as a base, Northumberland replaced NYM as a sandstone destination of choice, but still I went back on sporadic visits, introducing friends to the quiet crags, expansive views, and funky little sandstone climbs. Then I moved to Scotland and it all got a bit too far away.

In recent years, there's been another replacement: noise replacing quiet, static replacing silence - not on the crags but in the new pico-community that are re-discovering and re-developing them. Unfortunately rather than a calm celebration, it's a discordant babble of grating catchphrases, embarassing hyperbole, transparent trolling, beggy look-at-me personalities, and juvenile gimmickry. All of which obscures the useful information and realities of the climbing being done. The attention-seeking "characters" involved don't need any more mention, but perhaps their discoveries DO. No smoke without fire and even if the smoke is pretty noxious, the fire could be quite pleasant.

Thus I headed back down to the North Yorkshire Moors, seeking shelter from strong sou'westerlies and some new crags to explore. We had a whirlwind tour and went to Tranmire, Stoupe Brow, Roseberry Topping, Round Crag, Smuggler's Terrace, Thorgill Crag and Clemitt's Crag, with variable results, all in a few days (and there's enough trekking around there for my poor wee legs!). I was a bit hampered by travelling tiredness, steep ground weakness from lack of training, and skin that was out of practice with continuous sandstone climbing and thus rapidly wore out, but still managed some good routes. I missed out on a couple of other good ones and saved some for the future. I did have to remind myself that I'm still in injury recovery mode - although my wrist has reverted back to steady healing from the last blip, and survived this trip well, it's only a month or so ago I was having to be careful wiping my arse to avoid tweaking it! With the colossal portion of home-made chicken (surely ostrich?) kiev at the Lion Inn above Round Crag, that was some hardcore wiping on this trip so I'm glad it's feeling stronger now.

On the subject of shit....what about the recent routes and developments?? What gems were hidden amongst the forum/blog diarrhoea?? Quite a lot, it seems. The new routes are good, the new venues and re-developments of old ones are good too, simple as that. The information gleaned online was mostly accurate - more so than outright fallacious - and while the grades and descriptions might be a bit varied, the star quality is genuinely appropriate. Out of everything we did, almost everything was worth it's stars, a few maybe one less, but a couple maybe one more. The quality of the developments and the climbing speak for themselves, and that's what I hoped to find down there. At the end of the day, ignore the chaff and enjoy the wheat - that is what we did and it was worth the effort.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2014, 07:21:47 am
You must have done well getting to all those crags using North East Outcrops! :)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Franco on April 16, 2014, 10:37:25 am
Hi Fiend,

I'm glad you had a good time in the Moors and thanks for giving some balanced feedback - genuinely appreciated (without wanting to sound like I have ownership of Moors climbing).

I'm not sure why you have this bee in your bonnet about noise. The only noise there's been in the last however many years is a couple of blogs (something I notice you have too - also published on UKB...). There have been about 40 new routes climbed in the Moors since Christmas up to H8 (many of them very good), 5 (very significant for the Moors) bouldering areas discovered. There hasn't been any reporting of any of this anywhere. Meanwhile, think of how much news there has been from climbers (that you no doubt think of as modest) in the peak district, merely for repeats of routes... And Catchphrases? At least they're not cliches. Hyperbole? Perhaps it's just genuine enthusiasm.

How would your ideal world look fiend? Groups of sandbagging, falsely modest buffoons waddling around talking everything down? Only those people who have correctly 'positioned' themselves in the market visible, so that you think they're just a really nice psyched climber who's not interested in self promotion, but then somehow you hear about them all the time. YES, that would be progress. That would be a world I'd love to live in.

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: turnipturned on April 16, 2014, 11:40:46 am
Interesting blog, of what very little bouldering I have done in the NY Moors, I thought it was brilliant. Really looking forward to the new guide coming out and checking some of these areas out!

I wouldn't worry what people think Franco. I think its great that you guys are exploring and doing new stuff! You are clearly really enthusiastic and that ace. Keep it up!

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Franco on April 16, 2014, 04:23:53 pm
Thanks. I won't worry too much - just feel a little unduly criticized you know...

The bouldering guide is going to be really good I think - hopefully there'll be one for the routes in a few years too!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on April 16, 2014, 04:57:08 pm
I'm not sure why you have this bee in your bonnet about noise. The only noise there's been in the last however many years is a couple of blogs (something I notice you have too - also published on UKB...). There have been about 40 new routes climbed in the Moors since Christmas up to H8 (many of them very good), 5 (very significant for the Moors) bouldering areas discovered. There hasn't been any reporting of any of this anywhere. Meanwhile, think of how much news there has been from climbers (that you no doubt think of as modest) in the peak district, merely for repeats of routes... And Catchphrases? At least they're not cliches. Hyperbole? Perhaps it's just genuine enthusiasm.

How would your ideal world look fiend? Groups of sandbagging, falsely modest buffoons waddling around talking everything down? Only those people who have correctly 'positioned' themselves in the market visible, so that you think they're just a really nice psyched climber who's not interested in self promotion, but then somehow you hear about them all the time. YES, that would be progress. That would be a world I'd love to live in.

Well put.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Boredboy on April 16, 2014, 06:14:47 pm

Meanwhile, think of how much news there has been from climbers (that you no doubt think of as modest) in the peak district, merely for repeats of routes...


 :agree:

What captures the interest and imagination more than the casual, under the radar, lo-fi , word of mouth, who gives a shit attitude of an esoteric climbing scene. That's an endangered species for sure, the Moors must offer some potential for preservation of this dying breed......     
Title: Peace and quiet.
Post by: comPiler on May 06, 2014, 03:42:58 am
Peace and quiet. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/04/peace-and-quiet.html)
23 April 2014, 10:55 pm



The Lakes...

Iving Crag in Kentmere - a peaceful dead end valley where the only disturbance to the quiet is distant thrum of engines as cars try to rearrange themselves in a complex parking puzzle on the tiny cramped lane to avoid the £5 payment for a privilege of using a field. Actually the whole journey down to The Lakes was unusually relaxing and pleasingly swift, right until leaving Kendal from whence it was insta-gridlock presumably all the way to Ambleside and beyond. Thankfully we were only stuck for enough time to remind me how shit Lakes roads / driving / fucking bumbly drivers are, before swerving off to Kentmere. Iving Crag is a bit off-piste but it's pretty good for the mid-extreme climber and we got a few good routes done, I didn't do anything too hard as it was all a bit steep and intimidating. By the time we were shat out of the valley, the queue had pissed off to whatever BnBs / holiday cottages it was infesting and it was another relaxing journey over Wrynose to Duddon.

Far Hill Crag in the Duddon Valley - not a dead end valley but even more peaceful, and one of the best places to escape from the hordes in The Lakes, as well as sampling some fine outcrop hidden gems. Far Hill Crag is relatively far up the hill towards the backside of Dow and is thus more hidden than most, it also has some finer gems than most. Every route would be worth an extra star at a more popular crag, and the exceptionally rough rock - with a texture of cement sponge and endless right-facing side-pulls - is worth a visit in itself. If you have working legs and can cope with the walk-in, that is. I don't, but I could, only because it's relatively low angle for it's long length. A couple of routes in and things were going great, but the disturbance of the day came when the perfectly bone dry forecast turned into a drizzly swirling rain shower when I was part way up Lagonda. I suspect they heard my tantrumic swear-a-thon in Seathwaite if not over the hill in Coniston too. Thankfully after a furious cheese sandwich and an hour sulking, the skies cleared enough to grab a few more routes. It got a bit too cold to make full use of the evening, but doing First Of Class (another Duddon guide photo tick) made the day for me, an exhilerating testpiece and my hardest route of the year so far.

Burnt Crag in the Duddon Valley - closer to the road although just as arduous to walk up to, and far more of a honeypot with classic trade routes like Shifter, but still just as tranquil compared to the fleshpots of Langdale just over the mountain ranges. Well it was tranquil for a bit and then a group of local old boys turned up and any semblance of quiet was shattered by a storm of Cumbrian banter, beta, and bloody good laughs. This was actually quite welcome as they were an entertaining bunch, I do like meeting local veterans as they know all the hidden holds and gear placements, are amused when you don't find them, impressed when you ignore them, and generally can share good knowledge and crack about the crags. This was particularly true on the day and perhaps the highlight was the reaction to my last ditch solution to the squirmingly thin intricacies of Scorched Earth (yup another photo tick, the Duddon guide is full of inspiration that way). Tenuously bridged with a juggy ledge just out of reach, the obvious choice was to leap sideways for it....."foooking 'ell, he jumped for it! Did you see that Keith? Aye, foook me that's the move of the day, never seen anyone jump for that!". Quite amusing as that was considerably easier than the moves below.

3 days. 8 routes. 2 new venues. Mostly good weather and only 1 hour of rain and 10 minutes of traffic jams, I can live with that. Quite a lot of walking, and a few pretty challenging routes....I'm feeling more on form and more inspired. So here's a picture of the sunset from Far Hill:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EUQNET4YWOc/U1aAbnIGAaI/AAAAAAAABHw/i9NX_P3NoXI/s1600/farhill.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EUQNET4YWOc/U1aAbnIGAaI/AAAAAAAABHw/i9NX_P3NoXI/s1600/farhill.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: It's just the newness wearing off...
Post by: comPiler on May 06, 2014, 03:43:00 am
It's just the newness wearing off... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/05/its-just-newness-wearing-off.html)
5 May 2014, 12:27 pm



A classic phrase from a classic climber, George Smith. I think it was used in his excellent article about Lleyn climbing a few years ago, and I had good cause to use it on a recent trip to the Far North, which is far north of the Lleyn but certainly has the potential for similarly high quality experiences. In general North Scotland lacks good choss compared to North Wales and North Devon / Cornwall sea-cliffs (apart from the Old Red sea-stacks), but it seems there is enough lurking around the fringes if you know where to find it. My partner Steve knew where to find it, except he didn't know he knew because he sold the cliff to me as "clean and beautiful", well one of those is certainly true. Actually the cleanliness is partly true, it's just the occasional bit of cleanliness likes to detach itself to reveal more potential cleanliness underneath.

So the Far North in general. I'd been to Creag Shomarlie before and I'd been to Scrabster before, but never the section of coast in between. It was cold and desolate and beautiful when the sun came out. There's just enough civilisation up there even if it doesn't stretch to two-lane roads and cafes in every hamlet. Ben Hope and Ben Loyal provide a dramatic backdrop to the coast, or is it the other way around as the coast is spectacular in itself. It reminded me a lot of Devon and Cornwall, the difference being you can feel the emptiness and solitude at your back, compared to D&C where a few miles inland and you're in back to back villages and towns and back to back caravan jams.

We didn't actually do that much climbing up there, due to driving, cold weather (belaying in t-shirt, windproof, bodywarmer, hoodie, downie, snood, beanie and gloves and still freezing?? Yup welcome to May!), crag complexity and the need to balance out the Cocoa Mountain cafe with the Craggan pub, but it was certainly interesting exploration. The most interesting being The Tiger....for which I went through as many motivational fluctuations as the stripes on the cliff. The first photo Steven sent looked kinda scruffy - unpsyched. The next photos shown in person showing the scale and dramatic rock markings - psyched! Abseiling over the grassy edge onto highly variable terrain - unpsyched. Belaying at the bottom and looking at all the potential lines - psyched! Following up and encouraging the newness to wear off a bit quicker - unpsyched. Lying in the Tongue hostel thinking about the next line I spotted - psyched! Standing on the headwall with two shallow cams at my feet, two more okay cams 6m further down, looking up at fragile rock leading to a final smooth gearless groove - ummmmm..... Well I spotted a tiny bomber C3 placement under an overlap and topped out and it was a bloody brilliant adventure up a bloody dramatic cliff. You're not going to mistake it for mundane honeypots like Sheigra...

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nCVO2Cx1y8Q/U2eByoKEvfI/AAAAAAAABIY/TIb2UwhsTZM/s1600/tiger1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nCVO2Cx1y8Q/U2eByoKEvfI/AAAAAAAABIY/TIb2UwhsTZM/s1600/tiger1.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qRWoqZ_Sya8/U2eBzdWpt7I/AAAAAAAABIk/gT0ICNQ5YzI/s1600/tiger2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qRWoqZ_Sya8/U2eBzdWpt7I/AAAAAAAABIk/gT0ICNQ5YzI/s1600/tiger2.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5MCjI--WML8/U2eBzLsknKI/AAAAAAAABIc/gtYLfcJKq0A/s1600/tiger3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5MCjI--WML8/U2eBzLsknKI/AAAAAAAABIc/gtYLfcJKq0A/s1600/tiger3.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AVbwkrDBtNc/U2eBz08T_gI/AAAAAAAABIs/XKS57uKCX7U/s1600/tiger4.jpg)  (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AVbwkrDBtNc/U2eBz08T_gI/AAAAAAAABIs/XKS57uKCX7U/s1600/tiger4.jpg)

  Who Rattled Your Cage? E3 5b ** 45m

Requires a non-provocative approach and a double set of cams. A fine adventure up the central black stripe with good climbing but spaced protection and variable rock.

1. 5b 12m. Start as for TT or on a rock left of the blowhole, depending on swell. Gain the smooth wall at the black/orange boundary, where fine bold climbing leads to a good foot ledge and large cams above. Belay or on the ledge just right useful to prevent rope-drag.

2. 5b 33m. Continue up the orange/black boundary to the overlap and traverse right beneath this on quartz rails. Pull over leftwards (medium cams) onto a block. Step left to avoid dubious blocks then climb boldly to the final slim quartz groove (tiny cam on left). Finish delicately up this.




Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on May 06, 2014, 09:14:01 am
Looks cool, did he get a soaking in that second pic.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on May 06, 2014, 10:33:23 am
Nope, there is a big rock in the way, it was breaking over the rock in the photo but the bottom of the face was just about protected. Would be a relaxing spot in calm seas.
Title: Taking stock.
Post by: comPiler on May 19, 2014, 01:00:18 am
Taking stock. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/05/taking-stock.html)
18 May 2014, 6:23 pm



Sporadic blogging, sporadic things of interest to write about. I've been climbing in a variety of places, done some nice climbs, and have to think a bit harder to actually remember them all. It's been that sort of May - it started well by pissing it down but even the weather has perked up enough I don't even have that to moan about. So here's the current crag review:

Balgone Heughs - a demoralising pile of rubble that perfectly blends the aesthetics of the worst Peak limestone crag with the rock quality of the worst Central Belt quarry. HOWEVER the climbing is actually quite good fun, and it's a far better use of bolts than any retro-bolting nonsense in the Central Belt. I only had a fleeting visit but felt pretty confident climbing despite the weird rock.

Bramcrag Quarry - a demoralising pile of rubble that perfectly blends the aesthetics of the worst Central Belt quarry with the rock quality of....something considerably better. The aim was a mixed trad/sport hit and we did well to get any trad in as it was in the process of being retro-bolted as we climbed. I think they have done a couple of routes too many, but overall it is more suitable than any retro-bolting nonsense in the Central Belt (RBing is being done by the FA, most previous trad routes were not so classic, many of them relied on pegs and spaced bolts, trad is not as precious a commodity as it's surrounded by 2 guidebooks worth of classic Lakes trad, and clear delineation between quarry and nearby crags precludes bolts spreading). Did a few pleasant routes and left the harder sport for a breezier day.

Armathwaite - an appealing crag of aesthetic rock that is somewhat more traumatic to climb on. I'd visited a few times over the years, worked my way through some classic leads, and got inspired by harder lines. Unfortunately those lines tend to be bold and rounded and smeary with worrying "half-in" gear and it's all pretty spooky terrain for getting on the lead. Thus I'm less enamoured with the place and will file it under the "late Autumn pseudo-grit death route" wishlist.

Bleater's Wall - an appealing crag of aesthetic rock that is somewhat more traumatic to climb on. It's a fine sheet of Arrochar schist at it's most obtuse, with blind fingery holds and hidden and spaced gear and a strong sense that none of the harder routes get onsighted, at least neither at the grade given nor by people who climb the grade given. I certainly didn't manage that much apart from a lot of furiously crimping up and down the start of routes trying to place tricams and C3 cams quicker than they fell out under their own weight. Thus is the price of straying 30 mins drive from the Central Belt / honeypots of Cambusbarron / Dunkeld / Weem to a sunny idyllic crag with a 10 minute walk-in and a nice grassy base.

I think I want to go somewhere vaguely normal now...

Maybe Gruinard Crag, Stone Valley, Creag Nan Luch, Goat In The Woods, Mungasdale or Reiff?

Maybe Iron Crag, Castle Rock, Reecastle, Goat Crag, Falcon Crag, Bowderstone Crag, or Gouther Crag?

Maybe Creag Dubh, Stac An Eich, Glen Nevis or Creag A Mhuilinn, Tunnel Wall or Aonach Dubh if it gets warm?

Maybe my wrist is better enough to get on some harder stuff too. I've had reassuring sessions down Ratho, pretty much at my previous standard with pretty much not much pain. It seems a while since I got on something solidly and reliably challenging (Easter) so I am getting those urges again....May has been a bit headless chicken so far and I want to feel more focused.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on May 19, 2014, 08:18:39 am
Choose quickly, midge season is just around the corner
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on May 19, 2014, 10:25:46 am
I choose whatever is breezy....
Title: MungasFAIL, Leaning FAIL, Ashie FAIL.
Post by: comPiler on June 04, 2014, 01:00:13 am
MungasFAIL, Leaning FAIL, Ashie FAIL. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/06/mungasfail-leaning-fail-ashie-fail.html)
3 June 2014, 10:48 pm



Back in the North West recently. Lots of good stuff: I got to hang out plenty with PJ, and hang out properly with his mate Richie who is a nice guy and knows plenty about me from PJ's gossip which is kinda funny. Had a nice brief chat with Ian Taylor in Ullapool, and a lengthier and friendly chat with Gary Latter at the Leaning Block. Had a really rather good curry in Ullapool, and then burnt it off by managing to do the Leaning Block walk-in without any rests (aided by plenty of drum and bass on the mp3 player, and walking in in my underpants - I may have looked like even more of a twat than usual, but who had the freshest bawbag on arrival eh??). Had mostly great weather, got some decent sun on my lardy body, and did okay on Mungasdale and Gruinard walk-ins too. Did some useful re-recceing of inspiring routes, and worked out a better racking system for my new gear-loops-just-slightly-too-small harness. Yeah.

Oh, climbing. Yes, umm, climbing. Well the routes I did in the end would have made a pretty great single mileage day. Over a long weekend, much less so. Mungasdale was too warm and midgy to get on my main inspirations, and I even ended up failing on E2 groove there, partly because it was truly fucking awful climbing, but really because I was too scared to push on and risk falling above gear. Leaning Block was mostly rather fine but late starts and team-of-3 logistics made it difficult to get on my main inspirations, and I ended up failing on Losaigh, partly because it was truly greasy as fuck, but really because I was too scared to push on and risk falling above gear. Gruinard was surprisingly good conditions despite light winds, but feeling jet-lagged due to the previous days ridiculous schedule precluded even looking at anything hard, Coupe Du Monde was nice compensation though. Ashie Fort was again very pleasant after managing to get there from Inverness by 2pm (!), and although I did one funky E3, I ended up failing on the Sick Whipper / Whipper Snapper groove, partly because the wind had just bloody dropped and it got too sweaty, but really because I was too scared to push on and risk falling above gear (albeit that gear was a collection of complete abstract bollox half-in cams and insitu RPs, but even so it was right next to me and 5 wrongs would have definitely made a right). Basically I am complete coward and even more so when conditions and team logistics aren't in my favour.

It's a bit dire when one starts thinking "oh it's just nice to be out in the fresh air with some good scenery and good company". Ugh. Whatever next, enjoying "nice long easy routes in the mountains"?? Therein lies the path of even fatterness, even weakerness, even punterliness. I had to make it back up by going to Ratho the day after and making sure I did a bit of beastmaking as a penance after doing my usual routes session. That route session included some of the usual falling practise but clearly I need to do it more and bigger as it's still holding me back.

Ashie route I didn't fail on:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OKuZabQ-EkQ/U45QGFgF0bI/AAAAAAAABJI/KKYBb8qxJG8/s1600/fiend_ashie1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OKuZabQ-EkQ/U45QGFgF0bI/AAAAAAAABJI/KKYBb8qxJG8/s1600/fiend_ashie1.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mpboUTeVML4/U45QGKmSsvI/AAAAAAAABJE/a-BwIkSlsFU/s1600/fiend_ashie2.jpg)  (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mpboUTeVML4/U45QGKmSsvI/AAAAAAAABJE/a-BwIkSlsFU/s1600/fiend_ashie2.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Months of moronitude.
Post by: comPiler on June 07, 2014, 01:00:12 pm
Months of moronitude. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/06/months-of-moronitude.html)
7 June 2014, 10:07 am



January - The Month Of Potential: Cruising along after a brilliant 2013 and an inspiring trip to the grit in December, trip booked to Pedriza for maximum slab practise and hopefully the perfect practise for the tail end of the grit season.

February - The Month Of Sulking: All cruising come to an abrupt halt with a randomly tweaked wrist - can't stir fry, struggle to do the dishes and wipe my butt. Can't train and can't go to the gym and get pretty depressed and slothful and even more overweight.

March - The Month Of Recovery: The wrist slowly starts healing, the weather slowly becomes more reliable for general trad and I'm able to potter around. Knowing that I just need gentle mileage, it's quite pleasant getting back into and exploring a bit.

April - The Month Of Near Normality: As always happens, a steady diet of Easy Trad (tm) has got my wrist into a generally functional state, especially for almost all climbing except coming into underclings from below. The mileage has paid off and I'm climbing pretty well and doing some good challenges.

May - The Month Of Scrappiness: And yet somehow in May it all gets a bit scrappy, scrappy periods of intermittent reasonable weather, scrappy venues to take advantage of the weather windows but that never seem to offer reliable climbing, scrappy climbing progress that is actually more regress as despite feeling more healed than ever. I seem to have done a fair bit of climbing and can't remember any of it.

June - The Month Of .... Fuck knows. The month of more stupid intermittent weather?? The month of feeling lazy and slothful and slacking off my training?? The month of being hopelessly disorganised and missing out on most dry weather days??

....The month of really needing to get my act together. I am about as focused as a wet fart at the moment and if I dared try to pull a hard move that's probably what would happen. Once again there is a massive disparity between my levels of psyche and inspiration (high) and my levels of motivation and organisation (wtf?). Once again I feel detatched from myself because of that. That's not some airy fairy hippy bullshit (I had steak last night...), just simple facts. I happen to be a climber so I better fucking act like one.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: The Gun Show vs The Gut Show
Post by: comPiler on June 08, 2014, 07:00:06 pm
The Gun Show vs The Gut Show (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/06/the-gun-show-vs-gut-show.html)
8 June 2014, 5:07 pm



(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aT_MAehBFOc/U5SSpFu--lI/AAAAAAAABJc/jVgEECHdYEg/s1600/fiend_spade2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aT_MAehBFOc/U5SSpFu--lI/AAAAAAAABJc/jVgEECHdYEg/s1600/fiend_spade2.jpg)

Wearing a hideously bright power vest might make your arms look a bit bigger (and you look a bit of a twat), but it doesn't make you any less of a fat, heavy, and weak climber.

Recently I have had no less than 3 climber guys mention "the size of my arms". 3 guys who were nice enough but not quite enough to "turn" me, sorry. Relatively muscular arms in theory vaguely correspond to stronger muscles and thus vaguely correspond to hauling yourself up rockfaces, but it's not even remotely close to being that simple: Arms were mentioned by Colin when I was down at Bramcrag Quarry, where of course it's mostly slabby and decent finger strength, dry skin, and good smearing are far more important, and then by Richie and Davie at Ashie Fort, where of course it's bold and intricate and steely fingers and, stamina for fiddling gear, and a cool confidence are far more important. No-one mentioned it when I was in the steeper stuff at Reiff because those so-called muscles didn't do fuck all then did they....

So all of this means that the "hide the gut show the guns" power vest motto is, errrr, working aesthetically. So I guess I might get some good photos.....on routes that are piss easy because I'm too weak to get up anything else. Muscles, schmuscles. They mean precisely jack shit when you're far too fucking overweight AND have no stamina AND no lock-off ability AND no confidence to push past the pump. I don't even know what they are doing on my arms to be honest, and having anyone mention them is ironic and farcical. No one mentions how slim I am nor how long I can hang out without getting pumped nor how confidently I can push on above gear. I can't even think of any items of luminous clothing that could encourage nor highlight those more relevant features/skills. Power feather fucking boa maybe??

Possibly the simplest truism in physical climbing is there is no substitute for being skinny and light as fuck. Sure anyone can point out the few exceptions who are 1. Actually still light as fuck not just as light as fuck as the other good climbers, and 2. Ridiculously fucking overstrong with it. So any dissent is pure bollox. Conversely people keep expressing amazement when Ondra takes his shirt of and there is nothing there (incidentally I think Ondra is now topping my world-class climber man-crush table, just ahead of Dave G with Nalle possibly in 3rd, this crush is nothing to do with physique it is to do with incredible climbing and a devoted but fun attitude). Well fucking DUH of course there is nothing there - except skin bones and fast twitch muscle fibre. I suspect my forearms are bigger than Ondra's calves but I suspect every bit of Ondra's body is honed to hauling himself up 9as onsight and that his power to weight ratio is astronomically high. It's all about power-to-weight and it's exactly the same down at more relevant levels and every time I hear fucking Shark or my mates Dunc or Phil moaning about being heavy or weak they need a serious boot in the cock for being some combination of skinny cunts, tall cunts, or strong cunts and still daring to complain about it.

Anyway I'm off to the gym. Hopefully the muscles won't get any bigger but if I manage to burn a fraction of an ounce off it might help the tiniest bit...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Athletic Attitude.
Post by: comPiler on June 15, 2014, 01:00:10 am
Athletic Attitude. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/06/athletic-attitude.html)
14 June 2014, 7:48 pm



Embarassing as it is, I do actually know some non-climbers. Some of them are unavoidable (family), some of them are due to odd circumstance (a few friends). Quite often they accost me with bizarre proclamations:

"You're looking fit."
I might look *whatever*, but that is irrelevant to me. Half the time I look okay I've still been too lazy and inactive.

"You seem to have lost weight."
No I haven't. I've put on 3 pounds since you last saw me and have been desperately failing to shift it.



"You're heading back home to go to the gym? You're crazy."
No, I'd be crazy NOT too. I have to keep fit and I have to keep training. That *should* be normal for me.

"You're like the Duracell bunny, you never sit still."
No. I really wish this was true, but it's the polar opposite. I spend far too much time sitting on my fat arse, being inactive, badly motivated, and disorganised.

"Stop moaning about being weak, you're much stronger than normal people."
So? I don't care about comparisons with normal people, I care about what feels right for me, and what is right by my standards and the standard of the activity I'm involved with.

"Don't worry about not exercising today, you can have a day off."
No, I absolutely cannot and must not. I MUST keep exercising for my own health (DVTs + seeming high tendency to weight gain) and my own sanity (passionate about an activity that requires fitness and strength).

Basically non-climbers look at me and think I'm doing great physically. This highlights two things to me: Firstly that their standards are the utterly wrong ones for me to pay attention to and judge myself by, and secondly, when I consider their comments by the correct standards, then whilst I am generally doing "okay" physically for myself and my climbing, I'm not doing "great".

I am a CLIMBER*. I am passionate about and dedicated to a challenging physical (and mental) activity, and I enjoy pushing myself and progressing (or maintaining) my ability in that activity. It's not something I "do", it's something I "am".  The standards I judge myself by are those of an athlete - albeit an amateur punterish athlete, but an athlete nevertheless. Ideally I focus on that activity, I do it a lot, and I train both generally and specifically for it. Ideally I would have an athletic attitude, to get the most out of what I enjoy doing physically.

Except, of course, I don't: * - I am a climber but that is sort of mixed in with being a geek, being a gamer, being a depressive sort, oh and being a bit of a cripple too. My attitude is tainted with a whole load of issues that you fuckers don't need to know the details off but that inhibit my desires and motivation and encourage me to sink into ruts of inactivity, whilst my tangential other interests allow me to wallow in those ruts all too easily. Hardly the attitude of an effective athlete, is it??

I need to have that athletic attitude. Not in a rigid, dry, monotonous, excessively regimented and scheduled sort of way because whilst I want to be a better person I don't want to be that sort of better person, and the regimentation doesn't really work with my climbing passion. This is why I'm writing about ATTITUDE, the attitude of training and exercise and activity being the complete normal status quo. It's more of a generalised way-of-life thing. In which I am fit.....I do maintain (or even lose) weight.....I go to the gym often because that is totally normal.....I don't sit still all the time....I do keep strong.....and maybe then, with the right attitude, I could even afford the occasional day off because it will be in the context of regular, normal, dedicated action and activity.

I NEED TO HAVE THAT ATTITUDE.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Is This The Best View In Scotland??
Post by: comPiler on June 24, 2014, 07:00:06 pm
Is This The Best View In Scotland?? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/06/is-this-best-view-in-scotland.html)
24 June 2014, 4:37 pm



....says the sign at the Highland Wildlife Park, overlooking the same entirely familiar and fairly mundane vista of the Cairngorms that everyone sees everyday driving past Kingussie. No it's not even in the top 20, nor probably the top 100 depending how detailed you want to go with your best views. It's not even the Best View Of The Cairngoms From The A9 - that accolade goes to driving back down from Inverness and seeing the Cairngorms covered in snow above the intervening countryside. Admittedly within the park itself, the view of a pair of enormous polar bears flopped out on their haunches, chilling out nibbling on meat and carrots just a few yards away is a contender for the best view. But taking the Scottish landscape alone, here are a few of my favourites:

1. Kinlochewe - the view down the valley to the end of Loch Maree:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L6UgQBRiouY/U6mkkAtM9dI/AAAAAAAABJs/lt3UyXH-Fcc/s1600/kinloch1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L6UgQBRiouY/U6mkkAtM9dI/AAAAAAAABJs/lt3UyXH-Fcc/s1600/kinloch1.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mld-LMI72yw/U6mmjRm7P4I/AAAAAAAABKs/7o0aFcsCOfE/s1600/scene2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mld-LMI72yw/U6mmjRm7P4I/AAAAAAAABKs/7o0aFcsCOfE/s1600/scene2.jpg)  

2. Neist - the panorama of the Outer Hebrides with the pinnacle of An Teallach in the foreground.

3. Ardmair - the view of the bay, islands, and massive ridgeline framing it:

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WrduR_tzSqo/U6mk3D-yVCI/AAAAAAAABJ0/tRD7PFA7McU/s1600/1-ardmair.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WrduR_tzSqo/U6mk3D-yVCI/AAAAAAAABJ0/tRD7PFA7McU/s1600/1-ardmair.jpg)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E6gmMCerdBk/U6mmELoKAHI/AAAAAAAABKc/UXFDu8eAms0/s1600/glutview1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E6gmMCerdBk/U6mmELoKAHI/AAAAAAAABKc/UXFDu8eAms0/s1600/glutview1.jpg)4. Steall Meadows - the view of the meadow and the waterfall as you pop out of Glen Nevis gorge, or better still, pop down from Wave having walked up the other way:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gn4cj9Wv4_M/U6mlGP3zDoI/AAAAAAAABJ8/b6sG4VvTntU/s1600/stelll.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gn4cj9Wv4_M/U6mlGP3zDoI/AAAAAAAABJ8/b6sG4VvTntU/s1600/stelll.jpg)

5. Ben Ledi, Eastern Trossachs, and Ochils - the view as you pop over the hill south of Stirling on the M80 and see the start of the Highlands open up, not the most amazing but the sheer amount of hills and mountains just after leaving the Central Belt.

6. Erraid - the view of the utterly perfect beach beneath the main climbing areas:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Ld_cOM2noI/U6mlOm4-caI/AAAAAAAABKE/t0tI5LB7ETc/s1600/mull1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Ld_cOM2noI/U6mlOm4-caI/AAAAAAAABKE/t0tI5LB7ETc/s1600/mull1.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nJE10109mg8/U6mmOrkV11I/AAAAAAAABKk/6jGfVQ2xpBA/s1600/mull_erraid.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nJE10109mg8/U6mmOrkV11I/AAAAAAAABKk/6jGfVQ2xpBA/s1600/mull_erraid.jpg)

7. Sulliven - the view either from the Leaning Block cliffs or from Ledmore Junction. Either will do!

8. Loch Torridon - the view back from the viewpoint en route to Diabeg:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8iqHZkjtuZk/U6mlYQqJuEI/AAAAAAAABKM/LOL0JQ7t1iY/s1600/brutus_torridonbay.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8iqHZkjtuZk/U6mlYQqJuEI/AAAAAAAABKM/LOL0JQ7t1iY/s1600/brutus_torridonbay.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JlLSDUY9OsU/U6mljNQpp8I/AAAAAAAABKY/RHWSvbMzgLw/s1600/badpanorama2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JlLSDUY9OsU/U6mljNQpp8I/AAAAAAAABKY/RHWSvbMzgLw/s1600/badpanorama2.jpg)

  9. The view back up Gruinard River from Goat Crags:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qhxdhn_mJ54/U6mnRv8plCI/AAAAAAAABK0/4NuZaYx0JdI/s1600/goatview1.jpg)  (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qhxdhn_mJ54/U6mnRv8plCI/AAAAAAAABK0/4NuZaYx0JdI/s1600/goatview1.jpg)

10. Pick one of the following: Loch Linnhe up to Fort William from the Mull ferry, looking South along the coast from Aultbea to Gairloch, Glen Torridon itself, the Buckle above Rannoch Moor, any view around Gruinard Bay, any view around Stac Pollaidh, the panorama of the coastline around Tongue with Ben Hope and Ben Loyal towering in the distance, the view from Diabeg over Applecross and Skye, or any of the other thousand amazing views....



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: GCW on June 24, 2014, 08:39:29 pm
A'Mhaighdean across Fionn Loch takes some beating, Matt.
Title: The ethics of failing.
Post by: comPiler on June 25, 2014, 01:00:27 am
The ethics of failing. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/06/the-ethics-of-failing.html)
24 June 2014, 6:43 pm



Climbing is a pretty simple activity. Go to a crag, pick a route you like, read the grade and information from the guidebook, have a good look at it, get on it and try to climb it. If you're good enough to do the route you'll get up it and succeed, if you're not good enough you won't and you'll fail on it by falling off or resting or whatever. If it's a new route or an unrepeated route then there won't be the same / any information about it so you might need to inspect it further rather than climbing it normally, the same if it's a cutting edge of difficulty that hasn't been climbed normally (an extremely obvious distinction that needs no further comment, it applies throughout this post). But usually you'll turn up, climb from bottom to top and than you've done the route - and done the level of challenge the grade entails. Except:

First E5!!!! WOOOOOO ( Lead RP )
First E5 fail.

Worked on rope then went for the lead. Very happy first e5.
First E5 fail.

Probably could have onsighted this, but wouldn't have :) First E4!
First E4 fail.

First E4. Went okay after I found my sequence on the rockover. ( Lead RP )
First E4 fail.

first e4 stoaked!, although made a hash of placing cams low down in the crack and came off,
First E4 fail.

My First E2! Got it second go.
First E2 fail.

After Working, what a way to claim First E2!
First E2 fail.

First E2- took a tumble on the crux, got back on the horse and got it 2nd try.
First E2 fail.

seconded up it before then lead. first E2 without bolts!
First E2 fail.

Ummmmm..... In an ideal world UKC would replace "Lead RP", "Lead dog", "Lead dnf" and of course "TR" with "Fail".

What is so difficult to grasp that if you're doing a route at the grade given for an onsight, you've do the route as an onsight?? I presume that if someone is running a 100m sprint, they know that the time recorded is from starting at the starting line and running to the finish line, and to do that time you don't start part way along or ride a bicycle?? It's just the same and just as simple in climbing, to do that grade you do it in the context given. Sure the grade is given to the route not the ascent, but equally bloody obviously it's given for doing the route in a particular style - not worked, not with a ladder against it, not bolting on holds, not aiding it or anything else.

Anyway, there's nothing wrong whatsoever with trying and failing. It's part of the process. God knows I've failed on more routes than most people have succeeded on. It annoys me when I do it but it's nothing to be ashamed of - if I've failed on a route I haven't done it, sobeit.

Of course.....there's a world of difference between trying and failing, and not even bothering to try at all, by choosing to top-rope first. Failure to do a route is one thing, failure to even try to do it is something else. To acknowledge a challenge, to see it and be inspired by it, and somehow deliberately choose to not engage with that challenge is....very strange behaviour. Why bother to go near it at all?? If you can't even try to do it, then simply don't - there are so many more other routes to actually try.

In the context of all this common bloody sense, it was quite perturbing to see people failing to top-rope dog a mega-classic Lake District E5 trade route at a clean, dry, roadside crag the other day. It's the incomprehensibility of it that gets me. At first I assumed they'd be on a much less ascended E7 next to it (given that's getting towards the realms of "rarely climbed normally"), but no....mega-classic trade route at a very normal leading standard. Sometimes I think I'd like to know the reasoning behind this "Oh I can't do this route, so I will not do it by hanging on a top-rope", but it's such an alien concept I'd have better luck trying to understand telepathy with a squid or a patch of moss. What about "Oh I can't do this route so I'll get more skillful from doing some of the other few thousand routes in the area and get fit slogging up hills and get strong at the Bowderstone and then actually try it"?? Pass the moss-squid, it might be able to grasp that concept.

Of course "people can do what they like as long as they don't damage the rock". Sure WHATEVER. Yawn, snore, etc. What a drab response that misses the point of the climbing experience: the experience is about pleasure, about excitement, about tackling challenges....about quality. And the quality of the routes is about the experience of climbing up them, not the non-experience of not-climbing them by top-roping/working. Top-roping doesn't just eradicate the challenge and the grade, it eradicates the quality and the star rating. Sure people can choose to not-climb something, they might claim to "enjoy" that, but it doesn't make it any less weird - people choose to have sex with animals too and claim to enjoy it... And yes that is an entirely fair and accurate comparison. Cheers!



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Wood FT on June 25, 2014, 10:07:35 am
this is you fighting the ceaseless tide of the 'live and let live' brigade, you're only thinking of them, trying to improve their experience...

(http://www.thewayofthe21stcentury.com/bible/partingredsea09.jpg)


I feel just as bitter but people just tell me to shut the fuck up.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: slackline on June 25, 2014, 10:24:28 am
You could perhaps not waste your time reading and worrying about how others choose to climb and record their ascents on UKC?

Maybe its the comments you're getting at but I suspect you would be wound up even more if there was, as you suggested there should be, only a dichotomous way of recording how routes have been climbed on UKC rather than permitting "TR practice" / "Lead Dog" / etc..  Why?  Because all of those "ascents" that you highlight would simply have been recorded as successful ascents rather than the true reflection of how they were climbed, and then you wouldn't have anything to rant about on your blog (or perhaps you would as you'd "know" that there couldn't possibly have been so many ethical ascents of such routes)  :P

I'll also pick you up on your assertion that E5 is a "very normal leading standard".  Its not, for something to be "normal" it has to be common place.  E5 can and is regularly on-sighted, but this is by a minority of very good climbers who make up a small subset of all people who climb.  Take the whole distribution of grades climbed by those participating and the "very normal leading standard" will probably be around the HS/VS mark (and thats perhaps being a little optimistic).

Finally you perhaps are over-looking the fact that people may well have set out to on-sight the route, perhaps even its their first attempt at the grade, but failed (which you acknowledge as fine) and then did the next best thing, got it second try, have you never failed on a route?  Perhaps next time they try a different route of the same grade they might get it on-sight.  Recording your failures, and the style in which you failed, is all part of the process of learning and improving.  They might have been very proud of the effort they put in to get to the stage of trying it, and that might come through in their comments, but at least they have been honest with themselves as to how they failed (as thats all they have to be, I'm sure most couldn't care less what strangers on the net think).

There are just too many unknowns for you to be quite so disparaging in passing judgement on people you don't know or interact with.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: abarro81 on June 25, 2014, 10:31:44 am
I can't even tell if you're joking/trolling with this post, but for starters...

What a drab response that misses the point of the climbing experience: the experience is about...

Anyone who claims that they know 'what the experience is about' and those who think differently are wrong comes across to me as an arrogant fool I'm afraid. Anyway...

the experience is about pleasure, about excitement, about tackling challenges....about quality. Top-roping doesn't just eradicate the challenge and the grade, it eradicates the quality and the star rating.

Does your rant apply to sport climbing too or only to trad? I'm not sure why working a route eradicates quality. I've redpointed some damn good routes. In fact, often working a sequence makes it BETTER to climb, from a movement point of view, because you find a cooler, funkier way to do it rather than the basic burl that usually gets laid down on an onsight.


<blockquote>My First E2! Got it second go. </blockquote>First E2 fail.
Maybe they went ground up? All you can ask of someone really - 'onsight' isn't really an ethic, GU is the ethic, OS is just whether or not you managed to get up it 1st try. No shame in trying to push your onsight limits and not quite cutting the mustard.

Seems to me that, far from the experience orientated messiah you wish to be, you get wound up by people who are into grades. This is probably due to actually caring more about them than you wish to admit to yourself, otherwise it wouldn't wind you up.


Title: Mulling not moaning.
Post by: comPiler on June 25, 2014, 01:00:13 pm
Mulling not moaning. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/06/mulling-not-moaning.html)
25 June 2014, 7:30 am



So after a month of scrappy climbing and tedious whining about it on here, I've actually done some good stuff. What I really needed was a few days away in great weather with plenty of routes to choose from and lots of mileage potential to get back into things before pushing myself a bit. So we went to Mull, my second trip there and every bit as good as the first. The North West breeze kept the midges away the entire time, the sun kept us very warm on the first day and the crag orientation kept us mercifully in the shade on subsequent days, climbing days started with a stove-top coffee pot and finished with a firm dram of Oban 15 yr old, in between they were packed with a lot of delectable wee granite routes and a final switch to Ardtun dolerite when our tips got too sore. We traipsed through a lot of bog and tussocks, I had bog foot every day but quite liked getting more walking training. We met stubborn highland cows in the middle of the road, cute puppies at the campsite, and mutant 4-horned sheep at Kintra.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PvtEKXh8nxU/U6nARkLM8TI/AAAAAAAABLE/p22uQmP9CU8/s1600/kintra.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PvtEKXh8nxU/U6nARkLM8TI/AAAAAAAABLE/p22uQmP9CU8/s1600/kintra.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XvKg4kZMYyw/U6nAWHCKUhI/AAAAAAAABLQ/cACGBRvYXkA/s1600/puppy1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XvKg4kZMYyw/U6nAWHCKUhI/AAAAAAAABLQ/cACGBRvYXkA/s1600/puppy1.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PkxtprmlpTo/U6nAVv6oZ2I/AAAAAAAABLM/pk8MSQ59z4Y/s1600/cow1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PkxtprmlpTo/U6nAVv6oZ2I/AAAAAAAABLM/pk8MSQ59z4Y/s1600/cow1.jpg)

And of course we admired the beach at Erraid although were too tired to sit and relax on it:

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YJvdnGoVCfo/U6nAoiY3rTI/AAAAAAAABLc/CWrG76lxYcU/s1600/mull3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YJvdnGoVCfo/U6nAoiY3rTI/AAAAAAAABLc/CWrG76lxYcU/s1600/mull3.jpg)

Overall a great trip. I do like getting a ferry over to climb somewhere too - it feels like a nice wee adventure, but all very civilised with a decent Calmac service and surprisingly fairly priced "pub grub" on board.

Since then I've also had a flying visit to Reecastle crag and rattled off a few routes in very quick succession: Gibbet Direct (nasty crux of the original, lovely finish), Thumbscrew (great fun moves, steady but bold) and Inquisition (rather exciting, two committing cruxes one bold and one physical, chuffed with this). Everything was bone dry with chalked holds and worn gear slots - quite a contrast to the cobwebs and heather of Scottish 3 star classics. Pity the crag isn't a mile long as it is truly brilliant. Hopefully more Lakes action soon.

~{§}~

Oh and before I forget. If you get wound up by something you read on my blog (probably not *this* post), you DO have a couple of options:

Option 1:

1. Think of a number between 4 and 8.

2. Double that number, and convert it to inches.

3. GO SUCK THAT AMOUNT OF DICK.

Option 2:

1. Move your mouse cursor to the cross in the top right corner and close this window.

2. Go to your browser options and "Delete history", just in case.

3. Never ever visit nor read my blog again.

I.e. if you don't like it, don't read it. This applies to anyone who gets wound up by it, whether you're a "big number" climber or a non-climbing groupie.

P.S. Options 1. and 2. are not mutually exclusive!

P.P.S. There is a hidden Option 3: Accost me personally and engage in sensible and vigorous debate about it...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: Mulling not moaning.
Post by: slackline on June 25, 2014, 01:12:22 pm

Option 1:

1. Think of a number between 4 and 8.

2. Double that number, and convert it to inches.

3. GO SUCK THAT AMOUNT OF DICK.

Option 2:

1. Move your mouse cursor to the cross in the top right corner and close this window.

2. Go to your browser options and "Delete history", just in case.

3. Never ever visit nor read my blog again.

I.e. if you don't like it, don't read it. This applies to anyone who gets wound up by it, whether you're a "big number" climber or a non-climbing groupie.

P.S. Options 1. and 2. are not mutually exclusive!

P.P.S. There is a hidden Option 3: Accost me personally and engage in sensible and vigorous debate about it...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Why don't you take your own advice and if you don't like reading on UKC about how other people have climbed routes.....then don't read them or blog about them!

Maybe having chalked holds at Reecastle ruined your experience of the "pure on-sight effic" you are espousing and you feel a little upset, but that you bothered to write the above rather than engage in dialogue shows a level of arrogance above and beyond thinking that you have the right to tell others how they should experience things.



Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: abarro81 on June 25, 2014, 01:39:07 pm
Again, I can't tell whether Fiend is stupid or trolling?   :shrug: He's even more confusing than Sloper. [Fiend, in case it's the former,  "if you don't like it, don't read it" is dumb, "Accost me personally and engage in sensible and vigorous debate about it... " is dumb and must be ironic, surely??]

P.s. I'm not wound up, just procrastinating whilst I should be making a presentation
Title: On the concept of "6a" and other strange creatures.
Post by: comPiler on June 30, 2014, 07:00:04 pm
On the concept of "6a" and other strange creatures. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/06/on-concept-of-6a-and-other-strange.html)
30 June 2014, 1:12 pm



6a (English technical grade, by which of course I mean the likely challenge and physical difficulty that entails rather than the mere number or any spurious status associated with quoting that number although at least technical grades seem less hyped up in the "OMG first E3 (Lead dog)" bullshit) is a strange beast to me. Since it's been at the perceived limit of my onsighting / flashing ability, it's always been a bit uncertain what it actually entails. 5c I'm usually sure I can do (physically, whilst still retaining a reassuring potential to fuck it up spectacularly with cowardice or pump or both), 6b I'm usually sure I can't do (or at least not with enough percentage success rate to make it worth attempting), 6a I think I can, I hope I can, but then again it might actually be HARD. Okay so that's what I'd be trying it for, and all the associated kinaesthetic pleasure, but it's still quite daunting! 6a always seems a bit uncertain and I'm never sure of my success rate.

Since I've moved to Scotland I've done 96 6a route moves on lead (80 in Scotland, 16 elsewhere). I've failed on about 7 (that's where I've actually tried the move and failed because it was too hard or I messed it up, rather than wimping out), including a few foot slips, a couple of missed holds, and a few where I simply didn't have the power. I suppose that's a fairly decent success rate?

I'd say out of those 90+ cruxes, I've found maybe 1/4 really easy and just like 5c, 1/2 reasonably tricky but comfortable enough, and 1/4 properly hard battles. I've been constantly surprised recently getting on 6a routes and finding the moves feeling steady (recent examples including Boxed @ Kintra, Stand And Deliver and Uijet @ Gruinard), despite my power to weight ratio being the worst it's ever been. I suppose I've been a bit like the numpties who are in awe of the concept of "doing an E1 and breaking into EXTREMES OMG" - blinded by my preconceptions of what the described challenge might entail. Perhaps I needed a good solid 5d grade to bridge the conceptual gap (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=63)?

Maybe I have finally defused the fog of mystique surrounding that technical grade....

Maybe I'm running out of excuses to actually try some 6b routes....

Maybe I just to find some that really inspire me....

Or maybe I need to train more and get a bit stronger first....;)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on June 30, 2014, 11:27:50 pm
<shouldn't have bothered>
Title: Fatigue, Frustration, Fun.
Post by: comPiler on July 19, 2014, 07:00:05 pm
Fatigue, Frustration, Fun. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/07/fatigue-frustration-fun.html)
19 July 2014, 2:07 pm



It's been a good few weeks, with a good few days out. The weather gods have been unusually merciful and the typical sunshine and showers bollox has been interspersed with days of decent dry weather instead of days of more persisent rain. Of interest to me:

Fun / Fatigue - Iron Crag:

I've been a bit obssessed with Iron Crag this summer. Partly because I was never really aware of it until getting the very useful new-ish Eastern Lakes guide seeing a good crag for the first time is always exciting, and partly because having thoroughly revised that crag section and been recommended it by the old boys we met at Burnt Crag, I've been rather inspired by the bold and tasty wall climbing on offer. After several aborted chances I finally got down there for a good afternoon out, managed the crucial 15min (25min) final walk-in crux up a grass slope so steep you could turn it into granite and call it Etive, and managed to rattle off the two adjacent classics of Marble Staircase and Amabalite in reasonable order. Both were rather involving with delicate and intricate climbing and thoughtful and well-spaced protection. Classic Lakes-style wall climbing, and curiously enough as enjoyable as the routes were, they took enough out of me that I actually got a bit of mental fatigue and was happy enough not to climb the next day. Maybe I got a bit spoilt by the climbing-wall-style join-the-dots climbing at Reecastle ;)

Frustration / Fun - Glen Shian:

I've been a bit obssessed with the Glen Shian slab for 3 years now. With the typical obscurity and obfuscation of the Scottish climbing scene, this delectable slab of rock was made famous with a Dave MacLeod E10 7a and two videos featuring that route and an adjacent E7/8 repeat, yet not publicised in any useful form. UKC added well to the confusion by providing no crag details but mentioning it as "at Glenfinnan, a few miles west of Fort William". It's at Glen Shian, 25 miles west of Fort William and 10 miles from Glenfinnan itself. GG!! Anyway I managed to scour a minimal topo from somewhere online, approach details from Kev Shields, and a couple of addition routes from people's blogs and Andy Nisbet. Finally I got there the other week, and it was worth the effort.....just. "Just" because of the effort involved, not because of the climbing. The effort being a god-knows-how-many-fucking-hours round trip to collect the Spaniard from Falkirk, then hoon across half of Scotland to the slab, then climb all afternoon, then drive back to Crianlarich, have the great idea to post the Spaniard back on a train from Glasgow, saving us both a bit of bother.....then get stuck with a completely unmentioned 15 minute delay at the Pulpit Rock roadworks, leaving us with about 45 minutes to do a 1 hour journey to the station. Suffice to say we made it, but I'm not proud of my driving - slowing down to errrr 90 to take bends safely is a bit much even for me.

Anyway, the climbing. It took a bit of experimentation to work out the correct onsight grades and make the most of this fine sheet of rock, but in the end we had a cool day out. Things didn't start so well, falling off a so-called slab route that ended up with desperate footless jamming, lowering off RPs on a so-called E4 (E5+) only to rip two RPs and a cam and snap another micro-wire, gulp. Then it got a bit still and midgey and I still wanted to give the mega-classic Frustration a go....well I got on it "just for a look" and then the first tied-down skyhook was pretty bomber and I could see some good quartz blobs to go for and suddenly there was no frustration at all and all the weirdness of previous encounters was washed away in a clean tide of pure slab climbing pleasure. To have the same experience, here's all the details (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=21076).

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1_mp1b7ezV0/U8pztkyFfHI/AAAAAAAABL8/c_XBHIpyyqM/s1600/crucialtimesattempt.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1_mp1b7ezV0/U8pztkyFfHI/AAAAAAAABL8/c_XBHIpyyqM/s1600/crucialtimesattempt.jpg) Crucial Times...

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tu1ck5qx4kU/U8pzt9kIEHI/AAAAAAAABL4/th41IpQtghw/s1600/fiend_frustration1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tu1ck5qx4kU/U8pzt9kIEHI/AAAAAAAABL4/th41IpQtghw/s1600/fiend_frustration1.jpg)Frustration....

Fatigue / Fatigue - Binnian Shuas:

Finally something a bit out of my comfort zone. I know I can do 1 hour flattish walk-ins from semi-regular trips to Reiff's Leaning Block, I didn't know I could do that THEN stack a half hour uphill walk-in on top of that. Turns out I can, I think the early flat traipsing helps me warm up. Turns out I can also climb a mega-thuggy 40m crack pitch after all of that and after having crag supplies of the day consisting of: 1 small bread roll, a few spare salad leaves, some grapes, and a can of over-caffeinated sugary drink company ... But only just. Anyway BS just seemed like the right choice for the day, too warm for Creag Dubh and too far to drive elsewhere for a day, I only had one route I wanted to do (recently cleared by the legendary Iain Small, I'll be sending the bill for my finger skin grafts to him...) and the rest of the expedition would be good training whatever. Anyway I was mildly fatigued by the walk-in, very fatigued spending 30 minutes under the crux roof of Delayed Attack, trying to milk the cramped non-rest for what it was worth and wondering what the fuck was going on until I removed my wire from the crucial finger slot and removed a large chunk of skin from my finger pulling on it, and fatigued to the point of hallucinating beer and fish and chips at the end of the 4 mile walk out. Thankfully the Pitlochry Chinese/Chippy stays open late and freshly fried dinner ensured survival after all. Coping with the exhertion might open up some other possibilities (Creag Glhas, Stac Pollaidh) but I might restrict myself to once a month for such slogs, even when my legs can cope my sanity can only take so much plodding along!



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on July 20, 2014, 07:23:58 am
Can you cope with cycling? Mountain bike approach to BS is a doddle and makes the return a pleasure. Very handy for Creag Ghlas too. Long slightly uphill forestry road before dumping bikes for the brutal uphill slog
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: GazM on July 20, 2014, 08:58:13 am
Yep, I'd second Chris' comments re. bikes, although would emphasize the brutal nature of the brutal uphill slog. It's brutal.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 20, 2014, 11:26:53 am
I could cope with cycling....if I had a bike.

Will heed the warning about the last bit of Creag Ghlas. I can leave that for now.....although I am running out of slabs  >:(
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fultonius on July 20, 2014, 11:54:48 am
Fiend - here's two options for you:

The Airway (http://blackhawkparamotor.com/)

or

The Overland Way (http://www.i-mtb.com/cube-stereo-140mm-enduro-e-bike-eurobike-2013/)

Those crags will suddenly be in striking range!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: GazM on July 20, 2014, 01:09:04 pm
....although I am running out of slabs  >:(

Well, there's a lovely little number out on Diabaig peninsula that needs a repeat and grade concensus :whistle:
Only another 25 mins walk from the Main Wall.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 20, 2014, 01:34:47 pm
Good point, will have to wait for cooler weather for that area though....

Nice options fultonious although I think I still prefer Bonjoy's suggestion of a trebuchet to fire my rucsac up to the crag, or was it to fire me up to the crag?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on July 20, 2014, 08:12:19 pm
Yep, I'd second Chris' comments re. bikes, although would emphasize the brutal nature of the brutal uphill slog. It's brutal.

And tick infested! Second worst place I've been in Scotland for them. Bit within your grade range but Spider in a dark room is one of the nicest single pitch slabs I've done in Scotland
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 20, 2014, 09:16:24 pm
I got two ticks on the back of my knee at Glen Shian.

The Spanish dude I was with got 17. He was standing around in barefeet, the dick! I told him off but he was alternating between rightful paranoia that every small insect in Scotland was trying to kill him, and joyous prancing about being out in the beautiful Highlands countryside.

Also I have just remembered that the walk around to Diabeg Penisula crags is the worst "flat" walk I've ever done in Scotland and I will be in a mighty huff if I even do half that slog and can't get up Gaz's nu route  >:(
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on July 21, 2014, 08:48:55 am
We did Tree Hee at Creag Dubh and decided to do the walk / scramble off after looking at the ab tree, the grass was crawling with them. I must have brushed more than a dozen off my clothes, and found a further half dozen getting stuck in when I got to the car and stripped off.
Title: Lorelei
Post by: comPiler on July 28, 2014, 01:00:45 am
Lorelei (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/07/lorelei.html)
27 July 2014, 10:20 pm



Sometimes, it's just great. Sometimes a climb transcends the organisation, faff, logistical nonsense, massive amounts of driving, conditions, weather, midges, fear, doubt, uncertainty, and effort with such unarguable conviction, that it seems the quality of the climbing experience and the validity climbing lifestyle should never be doubted again  (until it rains or one gets injured or plans fall through or.....).

Lorelei (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=315443) was one of those such climbs. A slab at the end of the Loch Tollaidh agglomeration of humps, domes, buttress and crags, it wasn't what I was in the area for, and all I knew was: Stripteaser on the same slab had been good, if fiddly and bold; the guidebook said it was good but protection took some hunting (not true); it had had a couple of ascents recently (hmmm what did I expect, chalked holds and worn gear slots?), and it was in the shade most of the morning (crucial when the mini-heat wave made even lounging around in the sun exhausting, let alone trying to climb). So I went over and gave it a look...

Despite being in the shade I was a hot sweaty mess just from 5 minutes walk over from the first buttresses. It looked lovely but all I could think of was sweaty fingers sliding off slopers and swollen feet cramping up on smears. Loch Tollaidh is often in "good nick" so why not leave it for a cooler, fresher day when I could enjoy it rather than just get up it?? To delay the decision further, Steve fancied the rarely climbed E1 to the left, but the book had said it tended to be dirty so I offered to lead up, ab down, and scrub the holds and gear cracks to get it in more acceptable condition. A short while later and it was a relatively pristine E2 5b sandbag with some tricky moves and a hair-raising wee runout in the middle. Armed with a more accurate assessment, Steve went for it anyway, fought hard whilst I muttered encouragement down below whilst eyeing up my running belay flight path (steep and boggy) and got to the top with a fine effort.

Partly morally inspired and partly figuring I'd used up quite a bit of nervous energy on that attentive belay, I decided "just to give it a look", which usually ends up with me being so engrossed in the climbing process that the look becomes a committed involvement and actually climbing the damn thing. That wasn't really the conscious plan this time but of course it happened anyway.

I stepped up into the initial scoop, steady moves luring me up and left into less steady moves to exit the scoop. I took heed of the "protection takes some hunting" and stretched out to get a tiny flared offset out right, instructing Steve to perch as far right as possible so that when it inevitably ripped it would take a little bit of the force out of the bouncing groundfall rather than none at all. Luckily although continuing up left required some slopey stretches, I could see good holds so I just had to crank hard and knew I'd make it to respite and some better gear, well a tiny peenut in a hollowish jug, anyway. So far, so fairly serious, but with great rock and great slab climbing.

A pause for thought had me furtling around in a seam above, resulting in a classic "cluster of bollox" ((c) Pylon King 2004): RP1 slid in the back and held in place by smooth lichen (bollox), super shallow camalot resting on a quartz lip at the front (bollox), 00 C3 crammed and wedged behind some crystals (a bit bollox but took so much fiddling it should bloody stay in), and a 1 C3 in a slot that was actually, completely normal and decent (woot!). As predicted I ended up a hot sweaty mess from locking off and faffing around but this is the benefit of slabs with holds in hot weather, I could cool down enough to realise that with that much gear, I had better climb the damn thing now.

More excellent and elegant moves, a perfect combination of positivity AND friction had me standing above the break, and a final crank had me on a decent hold. This led to another vintage trad moment of faffing in more gear in a hollow undercut above before making the obligatory "one VS move" to a perfect seam and gear so deep it was half-way back to Loch Maree. The usual slab pump (?) was mounting at this point but with gear and holds getting better and better I just aimed upwards, pulled and rocked over and suddenly was in the blazing sunshine at the top.

What had gone from a definite abandonment, to a postphonement, to a tentantive attempt, had turned into a steady ascent that was pure pleasure from the start to finish. That was enough justification and enough effort for the day so after a couple more belays it was time to chill out:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0BoptV3H6wc/U9V6DWTxaZI/AAAAAAAABMs/HN4B2xGvIRY/s1600/fiendpost1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0BoptV3H6wc/U9V6DWTxaZI/AAAAAAAABMs/HN4B2xGvIRY/s1600/fiendpost1.jpg)

Of course, I don't have any climbing photos, so here are some cows lounging on a beach:

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QcbqrYdadRs/U9V4ujaFqqI/AAAAAAAABMg/lmIXzIPaP8M/s1600/moobeach1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QcbqrYdadRs/U9V4ujaFqqI/AAAAAAAABMg/lmIXzIPaP8M/s1600/moobeach1.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dsw0bsl_xH4/U9V4t2HO_tI/AAAAAAAABMc/03rVIAGYCbc/s1600/moobeach2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dsw0bsl_xH4/U9V4t2HO_tI/AAAAAAAABMc/03rVIAGYCbc/s1600/moobeach2.jpg)

I'm quite glad it's cooled down now. I'm sure the cows are happy either way, though.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Distilling it down...
Post by: comPiler on August 15, 2014, 04:29:48 pm
Distilling it down... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/08/distilling-it-down.html)
15 August 2014, 12:12 pm



If the pleasure of a whole single route is not specific enough, how far can one refine and distill down the experience??

Starting...the day...

A quick hit single day trip down to the Lakes, sandwiched between two days of relentless summer showers, the only evidence of which was one tiny 18" long seepage streak on an otherwise bone dry crag in fresh breezy conditions. A clear plan with Adam, easy back up options, a reasonable start and a triple shot of coffee crammed into one Costa Express Regular size cup. Some high quality techno and a relatively lack of Lakes bumbly driver queues got us to Bowderstone Crag in good time.

Distilling it further...the crag...

A singlularly impressive buttress that does for harder trad what it's fallen sibling The Bowderstone does for harder bouldering. I'd never been before as it's not exactly the Borrowdale venue of choice for the low-extreme leader, but Wheels Of Fire had been inspiring me for a couple of years now, whilst Adam had the monumental choice between an E7 6b with F7a/+ climbing and very spaced gear, or an E6 6c with F7c/+ climbing and no less than 18 (!) pegs. Scary or sporting? At least my choice was simple, although it took a while to get over the badly timed caffeine crash and get on with it.

Distilling it further...the route...

Two pitches, the bounding corner of the lower half of Hell's Wall, and the shield of rock overlooking it above. I'd seen a few comments on UKC about doing the top pitch only, but of course I wanted to do the whole lot in one go. 30 minutes later hanging on badly placed wires in the god-awful steep, slippery, painful groove perched just near enough to the easy slab below to guarantee twatting it on rope stretch from the awkward and exhausting moves, I could see why people only did the top pitch, given it's accessible by 2 minutes of scrambling. Could I deal with the horror and shame of not getting the full tick?? Well why not do the classic top pitch and see how it feels??

Distilling it further...the pitch...

The belay - already tested from Adam warming us up on Vahalla, another miserably awkward thrutch up a steep slippery corner, with possible the worst move in Borrowdale as the crux - offers a good launching pad and a great view along the hanging wall and the gibbering leader i.e. ME. It seems to be steady climbing to a slabbifying lip and then a sheer crux above. Instead it turns out to be continuously technical climbing even to get out there, in retrospect the high standard of climbing (not a move below 5b) is very good, but at the time it feels like I'm in at the deep end and doggy paddling for my life. But I fiddle in enough gear and contrive some sort of shake-out perched above the void.

Distilling it further...the situation...

I guess the shake-out must have been good because I was there for a typically long time. Calming down, cooling down, fiddling in more gear - 5 bits in the seam to the right of me. On photos on UKC I could see the gear some way right of the crux on one rope, and assumed there must be something on the left rope much closer to the crux.... No, no there wasn't. Sure the gear was good but testing it would involve getting a good view of the Hellish crux a long way below. On with the climbing then.

Distilling it further...the set-up...

The crux is a long reach apparently. The other crux is also a long reach. A high bridge and long stretch gains an unmatchable edge still some way off the next good crimp rail. I still don't want to test the fall just yet, so more shaking and teetering and swapping pump in my arms and feet. My brain isn't too pumped yet as I change to a tinier, closer foothold and make the stretch, and extended scrabbling gets me fully committed on the main rail. It's good but there's little time and even less reason to hang around and think about it.

Distilling it further...the move...

I look up....and higher up still and see the next hold. Feet up and out in another high bridge, but this time it's beyond stretching. I coil up for a lunge....without looking sideways, my brain visualises the gear a little bit down and a long way right, my awareness acknowledges the fall potential, my memory recalls 3 days ago at Ratho, doing falling practise as I do almost every session. Bolt beneath my feet, looking down, dropping into space. The familiarity with that situation quietens down most of my concerns about the fall, and the thoughts have passed through my mind in fractions of seconds. I slap upwards.

Distilling it further...the hold...

Even committing, even slapping, I'm not sure that I will make it. Even getting the hold, I'm not sure that I have. It's good, I think, well that's what half a first joint on the sharp lip is telling me. I micro-slap again, am I on or off? Still on. Another micro-slap, I'm pretty sure I'm on? Another adjustment and match and I've held it. Scream up to a good loose jug, slap a sling over it, spend a couple of minutes hyperventilating and trying to remove the flash pump to do one easy 5b finish move in a couple of seconds.

All concerns or queries or regrets about the first pitch or the faff or anything else are gone. All that matters are those moments of catching and re-catching and re-catching the edge until I had it. One move, one hold, one hand, I can still imagine the feeling beneath my fingertips.

Of course, I am really happy with the route because it is brilliant. 15 metres of top quality wall climbing and spacewalking. I'm even happier committing to a slap above gear. Last year I slapped for a hold with a bolt beneath my feet, this year I slapped for a hold with trad gear beneath my feet. That is pretty special to me. 3 years ago I'd have got to the first crux and backed off it, unwilling to commit to even that. 2 years ago I'd have done the first crux and then slumped sideways off that, unwilling to risk the full fall. Last year and this year I'm able to commit to that move - well this time at least, maybe next time I will be a fanny and back off, but then again maybe not, the potential is there and that is reassuring.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Aberdeen Angles.
Post by: comPiler on August 18, 2014, 07:00:07 pm
Aberdeen Angles. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/08/aberdeen-angles.html)
18 August 2014, 1:42 pm



Steep, steep or steep?? I did find a nice slab but I was on my own and although it was vaguely soloable the jagged rock-shelf landing sloping straight into the sea with whatever broken limbs would still be attached put me off so I moved swiftly on to the next day with PJ and onto the steepness. The highlight of the day being some good honest Wet Pussy, a route that curiously enough is described (presumably in the Deep Water guide) by Rockfax as "soloable" despite jagged rock-shelves perching below the 8m high off-balance crux as well as a rib to bounce off before you get there. Maybe at a high tide you might have a metre or so of water to not-cushion the fall, but the obvious conclusion is: Rockfax can be fucking idiots and the inability to edit their fallacious descriptions on the UKC database is a fucking farce. Anyway I led the route - if the amount of faffing around and up-and-down-climbing I did can be described as a conventional lead - and it was very good with a fully committing crux.

Since gently overhanging trad is not nearly enough, we retired to Long Slough to attempt Bob's Overhang. I tried to warm-up by traversing around and climbing up and down to the crux a couple of times which resulted in a feeling exactly like trying to warm-up at TCA on Core and Holdz holds - raw hands, sore inner joints, and a rapidly diminishing will to climb anything. I've been training a lot recently, indoor leading, bouldering, and gym-work, just to get strong enough for this sort of malarkey, and lo and behold it still seemed utterly fucking desperate. So I backed off, PJ went for it and fell off, and we concluded it was nails and I'm only coming back after several weeks of prior 30 & 45° board specific training, obviously what I'd expect to have to do to get up a route at a grade I climb every week this summer????

Of course this is the coast and the usual rules don't apply - which keeps the locals happy but does mean that normal climbers have to change their perceptions a bit. I haven't pushed myself in the area for nearly a year (I blame my friends up there for spawning and thus having much less time to climb) so it will take a bit of getting used to again. I'm not sure why I've neglected Scotland's most significant rainshadow but I've got some psyche back now and it goes like this:

Running Wild, Craig Stirling - because I like the style (boulder problem to a rest to a wild finish) and it's an amazing line. I'm still quite worried how desperate the start looks, I've taken a photo of the lower wall to train for it!

The Pugilist dir, Floor's Craig - because despite failing on the original way starting up the MM groove, I never even got the to Pugilist proper so the arete direct start is game on! And it looks cool.

Prehistoric Monster, Earnsheugh - because I really like Earnsheugh climbing, this looks great.

Necromancer, Earnsheugh - Same as above, I've abbed down it many times with my gaze averted, but glimpses across from Death Cap make it look great.

Pow Pow, Pow Kebuck - because I've finally found it on this weekend's recce, and it looks really rather cool, a nice off-piste aim.

Who Dares Wings It / Where Seagulls Dare, Johnsheugh - cos Johnsheugh is good and I want to do more there.

Bob's Overhang, Long Slough - because....I don't really know. It still might be possible. Maybe.

Africa Face, Longhaven - because now I've learnt to slap for holds above gear, this might be possible for me, plus it's a great bit of rock.

Waltzinblack, Red Tower - because I tried before and backed off just because it was too warm, I'm sure it would be fine and a nice bit of rock.

Gah, that's quite a lot (cunningly all non-tidal and mostly quick drying, god knows I'll need all the help I can with the ever-fickle conditions up there). I better keep training then!!



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Time to try??
Post by: comPiler on August 26, 2014, 01:00:34 am
Time to try?? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/08/time-to-try.html)
25 August 2014, 7:58 pm



I think?? I don't know. I thought I did but maybe I don't.

I've been a good boy this summer. I've realised that my physical ability is waning whilst my trad climbing ability is holding steady, so I've kept training and tried to keep fit. I haven't had many days out but on most of them I've done a challenging route or two. When I've trained in the meantime I've felt I'm holding steady with all physical aspects, rather than regressing. So far, so groundwork.

I've still got many inspirations in Scotland, albeit fewer than before last year's great climbing. As the numbers dwindle, the numbers increase - most of the remaining routes are "hard for me". I haven't wanted to get on them in mid-summer but now the weather is cooling down a bit, the window of sensible attempts has opened....but of course it will shut again in a couple of months.

So maybe now is the right time to try a bit harder, get on some more desirable and incidentally more difficult routes.

Except after this evening's debacle I'm not so sure. I tried something "hard for me", Bladerunner Direct at Auchinstarry. I put a lot of thought and attention and emotional turmoil into this - visits spent just looking and playing around on the bottom wall, visualisations of sequences and logistics, buying a BD Offset Swedge for the one bit of possible gear as my old HB 00 offset looked too soft. I played around more and worked through worries about the lower wall (supposed crux) and the Bladerunner mantle (supposedly serious without the very high BR siderunner). The evening was dry with a cool breeze, my partner was actually the first ascentionist of BR, I'd reassured myself that falling off the lower wall would still give me the option of doing BR itself, so the omens were good enough to get on it.

The supposed lower crux was committing but easy, the mantle was committing but easy. I was thrilled to get those mental hurdles out of the way, although in retrospect they add nothing to the objective difficulty of the original route, but maybe a bit to the quality? Resting for ages and fiddling gear for ages in the "just out of view for the 5'8" climber" micro-slot, I recovered almost all my poise and focus. Now I just had the technical but protectable crux of BR....which turns out to be the overall crux of BRD and it's pretty hard but eventually I cranked through it to the pocket where Nijinski joins the route....I never had any worries about the final moves from there, I'd already done them blind and with distant gear. Except....except....I'm on the pocket, tiny cam in, doing the layback....except I'm not, I'm sliding, my left-hand is slipping one slap up one slap down my foot won't go on the ripple I'm compressing so much I'm surprised my wrists don't crack and I'm OFF.......

I can't believe it - and those are the only words I can say for several minutes. I'm not angry, I can't even describe my feelings, my mind and vocal chords incoherent with shock and disappointment. So much mental wrestling and determination invested into three anticipated cruxes and I somehow fell off the easy bit. Actually, I DO know how. When I did Nijinski it was December and crisp, today was August and although there was a cool breeze it was warm rock from the prow's usual sunbathing - fine for gaston rockovers and positive mantles and square-cut layaways to pockets, but obviously unsuitable for slopey arete layaways when all chalk has been ground off by the previous powerful crux. My friend Tris and I had discussed harder dolerite and concluded to treat it more like quarried grit....and like quarried grit the oft-positivity can fool you into getting involved when warm edges feel okay and suddenly surprise slopers don't. I abseiled down and the arete felt rubbish.

Anyway I tried a bit harder and found the easy bits can be as hard as the hard bits. Logistics and tactics are often about the planning and pacing and balance of easy and hard bits and god knows how I feel about that now.

Hmmmm. Mostly....tired, I think.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: "Never save any route"
Post by: comPiler on September 02, 2014, 01:01:32 am
"Never save any route" (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/09/never-save-any-route.html)
1 September 2014, 10:46 pm



....the wise words of Britain's top sport climber and seemingly all-round nice bloke Steve McClure. I was lying in half of a fold-down guest bed in Brad's house in Aberdeen - the other half being determinedly occupied by Atlas, one of their fine tabbies and although considerably smaller than me in size, somewhat larger in charisma and bed-hogging ability - and reading through lots of back copies of Climb. Plentiful inspiring articles about legends like the Sharma, the Ondra, the McClure, even an interview with Neil Gresham that was actually interesting. Always great to read about top climbers when they have ideas and inspirations that are as interesting as the big numbers themselves.

Steve's article and comment struck a chord with me as I am very prone to saving many routes for the optimum time, often having many crag visits and delayed attempts before properly trying them. Of course "never save any route" is a fine motto when you're a F9a+ climber, at least F8b+ onsighter, fresh from onsighting Britain's least on-sightable safe E7 Strawberries, weight about 9 stone, are fit as fuck, on a flying visit to Scotland, up the Cobbler in great summer weather and you're trotting up an easy classic like Dalriada which is probably not too far out of the comfort zone. When you're 1. Crap and 2. Actually trying things physically and mentally hard for you, saving routes can seem like a sensible option and indeed the only tactic that gets me up some routes. If I hadn't saved half of my hardest leads last year from at least one previous aborted visit until actually trying them, I doubt I could have done them.

This weekend's saved route was Running Wild. Utterly inspiring and potentially utterly desperate for me - on paper, beyond my current limits, although maybe possible with enough focus. I've now had 4 crag visits without getting on it: first was far too greasy, second was amazing conditions but no-one to climb with, third was good conditions but a brief shower made the access inaccessible and waiting wasn't ideal, fourth started with decent conditions and then got a bit too smeggy to be comfortable. So I walked away again. Sure if I was Ste Mc and I was beneath a greasy E7 6c on a flying visit to Aberdeen, I'd never save any route, get on it, and piss up it. But I'm not so I didn't.

On the other hand, sometimes everything seems right. You don't save the route, you get on it, and then...

Let's rewind a bit. I've recovered from the punter-flu and the shock of BRD. I've started getting motivated and moving again: Day -4: Long bouldering session at Ratho, especially steep stuff on sharp holds. Day -3: Good varied gym session, partly to rest fingers and skin. Day -2: Short trad session with steady pumpy warm-up and then a good steep trad classic (Velvet Glove at Limekilns, which I did dick around on for too long before realising the crux is easy and the whole route is really rather great). Day -1: General Aberdeen mileage - nothing too hard so not getting at all tired, but good exercise throughout, also recced the next day's challenge: Pugilist Direct.

The day itself: Good start with strong coffee and just as strong satanic death metal in the car. Belay Brad for a while, good conditions and nice climbing temps. Warm up well on the brutal Italian Stallion, pull through the steepness confidently and climb extra-slowly to finish to maximise the pump. Rest, then start steeply up PD to the jug and gear, spend a while here getting a mini-pump, checking the sequence, chalking the holds. Reverse down to rest and recovery with my hoody on. Never save any route....and get on with it. Piss up the great moves to the rusty peg. Fiddle in a back-up wire, enough to do more great moves to the slot before the top ledge. I've been warned that placing gear and moving past it is hard....but now I DO have a bit confidence to move past gear, so surely that's okay. Except of course, the cam is fucking annoying to place. Theoretically bomber, but out of view, no footholds to pull up and seat it reliably, hands in the way in the slot. I'd love to slam it in easily and move past but it's the typical "gear is good enough if you're strong enough to hand around and place it" horror. If you don't get it right and fluff the moves, you could easily rip the peg and back-up or even just hit the ground on the rope out. 10m above serrated rock ledges, if you're lucky you'd die quickly, rather than being a crippled vegetable until the doctors pulled the plug. So I DO get it right enough and fire in a super quick back up, just in time for my hands to start clawing up and slap ineffectually for a non-hold. Pulling back on, I scarcely need 10 seconds swearing on the rope to have a good mini-shake, and the move to the ledge is as piss as the rest of the route - the crux of both grades has been placing the damn cam. Fucking specialist coastal bollox.

Even though everything seemed right....maybe I should have just saved that route anyway...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Yob climbing.
Post by: comPiler on September 04, 2014, 07:00:18 pm
Yob climbing. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/09/yob-climbing.html)
4 September 2014, 12:07 pm



A great phrase coined my old friend and swearing partner The Pylon King, referring obviously to brutish, nearnderthal climbing rather than the rather civilised Ogwen valley VS Yob Route. Something I was reminded of recently, pondering on forthcoming plans in which Diabeg slabs seemed a likely option. Despite fairly graded challenges, I felt little concern about getting on tricky slabs, they might be tricky but at least they are manageable. Unlike yob climbing, which I still feel well out of touch with, but still want to get to grips with. Hooliganic battles, perfect for climbers with biceps bigger than their brains - yet there is a certain pleasure, especially involving pulling off powerful moves in wild positions. It's still a bizarre feeling doing that on trad, but maybe it can become a familiar one?? Clearly this will involve a large amount of steepness, but not all steepnesses are equal. For example:

Steep and wild but not actually steep at all.

E.g. The Moon @ Gogarth, Dreadnought @ Berry Head

Where the whole crag and indeed route overhangs massively, but none of the climbing actually does. Generally fantastic fun and I tend to relish these as I know pretty well when I'm not overhung.

Steep in a gently impending way.

E.g. Wall Of Silence @ Reiff, Lady Charlotte @ Dunkeld

Where the route isn't hugely steep but it's consistently overhanging. Can be home to the dreadful "protection is good if you're strong enough to hang around and place it". A Scottish speciality due to the well featured rock on schist, sandstone and gneiss. Initially quite hard to deal with but fairly easy to train for and get used to. I'm getting there after 4 years.

Steep overhanging ladders.

E.g. Raging Bull @ Floors Craig, The Rasp @ Higgar Tor

When the rock is hugely steep and the holds are hugely huge. Pretty much a matter of being in the right attitude. Feel good and climb quick and they're easy, although again swift protection can be the key. My attitude varies as wildly and so do my successes.  

Steep reassuringly traditional thrashes.

E.g. Walk Like An Egyptian @ Reiff, Space Monkey @ Ardmair

Where everything overhangs in enough dimensions that the battle is partly transferred to the lower body and the imagination of what appendages can be used. All over body pumps likely, but not as likely as swearing and crying. I'm semi-rubbish at these and don't know if I want to get any better.

Steep and wildly flamboyant.

E.g. The Sloth @ The Roaches, Mother's Pride @ Elgol

Where the rock is steeper than steep but the holds, protection and logistics mean the challenge is just a matter of being "out there" and dealing with the wildness. Similar to the overhanging ladders but even more fun when it works. Partly why I do the falling practise, to be able to switch off the phantom fears and switch on the yarding out from gear.

Steep and bouldery.

E.g. Bob's Overhang @ Long Slough, Bratach Uaine @ Creag Dubh

Where there is steepness and powerfulness combined. Again assume the logistics are fairly sensible which is useful as the moves can be bloody hard. Bouldering on a rope, sport climbing with good cams instead of bolts. I want to be able to do this sort of climbing, pulling hard on small holds is good at whatever the angle.

Steep and just plain hard.

E.g. Quietus @ Stanage, Pugilist @ Floors Craig

Where the steepness makes everything desperate, not least because most of the above challenges are combined. Very much a specialist subject for the yobbiest of the yobs. Excess body hair might be the key to success, as well as the ability to climb 2 grades harder than given. I have neither so I'm probably fucked.

So how to get better?? I tend to do plenty of steep bouldering indoor and out, and a fair amount of steep routes indoors to train (I've deliberately increased the angle since moving to Scotland). I guess I just need to do more, and of course more falling practise, always. Placing gear in steep pumpy situations is another factor entirely and I'm not sure how to deal with that apart from doing more of it. Maybe I need to relish slightly easier but still steep routes simply as good training??



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: A change is a good as a rest.
Post by: comPiler on September 20, 2014, 01:00:35 am
A change is a good as a rest. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/09/a-change-is-good-as-rest.html)
19 September 2014, 6:39 pm



Resting makes you weak of course, as does trad climbing, but exploring makes the spirit stronger. In the words of the guru Simon Panton, extolling the virtuals of straying off the beaten path and sampling a wide array of rock:

New ground is like cold water to the desert-trapped man - essential.


A motto to live by as a climber if ever there was one. Coincidentally I have something to report for Simon, more on that later. In the last few weeks I have ignored all my oft-intimidating Scottish ambitions and rollercoasted around a collection of new / old / off-piste venues, sometimes with new / old / off-piste friends (including a lucky chance meeting with The Pylon King)...


...and done some fascinating and varied routes, from the most classic of classics to overrated micro routes to thrilling hidden gems. Highlights would be hard to pick out, but maybe the zenith was arriving tired and sweaty to the col in front of the Y Foel Penolau summit and letting the stunning location and atmosphere soak over and refresh me. Truly why it is worth driving that 30 minutes south from Tremadog polish and queues to the should-be-irresistable Rhinnogs.

Here's some photos to speak a thousand words:

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U2c0Gtxfae4/VBx1-k0gVbI/AAAAAAAABNg/gQfySFYTFoo/s1600/fiend_arma.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U2c0Gtxfae4/VBx1-k0gVbI/AAAAAAAABNg/gQfySFYTFoo/s1600/fiend_arma.jpg)

 Armalite @ Raven Crag. Soft touch and relaxing.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nDDmKvdiO-0/VBx1_PqVWxI/AAAAAAAABNk/YpoYJFN0rw8/s1600/fiend_spy3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nDDmKvdiO-0/VBx1_PqVWxI/AAAAAAAABNk/YpoYJFN0rw8/s1600/fiend_spy3.jpg)

 Master Spy @ Wilton 1. Sandbag and exhausting.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AcXRJh9o1Pk/VBx2GTV8q4I/AAAAAAAABNw/qrKTXMnrQHM/s1600/fiend_barmouth.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AcXRJh9o1Pk/VBx2GTV8q4I/AAAAAAAABNw/qrKTXMnrQHM/s1600/fiend_barmouth.jpg)

Some F6b+ arete at Barmouth. Quite pleasant.  

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_tbVoMqZvII/VBx2IyYusWI/AAAAAAAABOA/NcFyVQ8-W3s/s1600/fiend_entropy.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_tbVoMqZvII/VBx2IyYusWI/AAAAAAAABOA/NcFyVQ8-W3s/s1600/fiend_entropy.jpg)

 Some F6c at Sunbeach. Minor but fun.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5OEy5EtQ8b4/VBx2KCF5S3I/AAAAAAAABOI/xMYjBGBzKL8/s1600/ogwen2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5OEy5EtQ8b4/VBx2KCF5S3I/AAAAAAAABOI/xMYjBGBzKL8/s1600/ogwen2.jpg)

Ogwen Valley from the Menai Straits. You can smell the bumbly even from here.  

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XueyAiN6lXQ/VBx5dF4z4FI/AAAAAAAABOk/c0Aj2qRFqGU/s1600/purrfection.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XueyAiN6lXQ/VBx5dF4z4FI/AAAAAAAABOk/c0Aj2qRFqGU/s1600/purrfection.jpg)

 Purrfection @ Y Foel Penolau. Recreating the guidebook photo complete with rubbish beta.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-be82W8yr8NE/VBx5m59jUPI/AAAAAAAABOs/n3AMN_HKnkw/s1600/purrfection2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-be82W8yr8NE/VBx5m59jUPI/AAAAAAAABOs/n3AMN_HKnkw/s1600/purrfection2.jpg)

Purrfection showing the correct way. Amazing place.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pEFsEIFaNeM/VBx2IFoRocI/AAAAAAAABN4/S7U1z7OhME4/s1600/fiend_careless.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pEFsEIFaNeM/VBx2IFoRocI/AAAAAAAABN4/S7U1z7OhME4/s1600/fiend_careless.jpg)

 Brand new 3 star classic arete in the Rhinnogs.

Now all I want to do is get back to Mid Wales. Bloody 5+ hour journey though...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Souter Syke!
Post by: comPiler on October 03, 2014, 07:00:05 pm
Souter Syke! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/10/souter-syke.html)
3 October 2014, 2:16 pm



One visit in two decades, then two visits in one month. This is based on the sudden realisation / rememberance that it's really a rather nice spot and there's loads to do in the mid-extremes and the sneakily gruelling walk out is good training for my puny legs without being tiring before climbing and it's a good 45 mins closer than The County. There's even been a few new routes added since the guide albeit some of those have been grossly overrated by the FAs so aren't as big a draw as the established greywacke mini-gems and micro-testpieces. I've worked my way through several of these but still have many to go, depending on tides and conditions of course. This last visit the tides were decent and the conditions were perfect, a brisk westerly blowing any moisture back into the depths from whence it came. Thus allowing a satisfying ascent of the distinctly non-mini-testpiece Fast Bleeder, admittedly the bulk of the challenge of this climb is packed into the last 8m but those 8m are relentless enough to preclude any complaints about brevity...

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Zv2dszG3Asg/VC6Ylr4KCpI/AAAAAAAABQs/NYxgw34sbq0/s1600/fiend_fast2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Zv2dszG3Asg/VC6Ylr4KCpI/AAAAAAAABQs/NYxgw34sbq0/s1600/fiend_fast2.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n-6Wx1lx7f4/VC6YlGSym8I/AAAAAAAABQo/jG9hFCLzFHM/s1600/fiend_fast3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n-6Wx1lx7f4/VC6YlGSym8I/AAAAAAAABQo/jG9hFCLzFHM/s1600/fiend_fast3.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qn68gh0-hV4/VC6Yln8-xvI/AAAAAAAABQw/PE7ltPD3EwI/s1600/fiend_fast4.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qn68gh0-hV4/VC6Yln8-xvI/AAAAAAAABQw/PE7ltPD3EwI/s1600/fiend_fast4.jpg)

Other days out have included Creag Dubh's Barrier Wall to which I've had two visits and two cancelled visits previously, all of which were because it was too hot / sunny / still to climb the harder stuff. This time the rock was in perfect condition and the howling gale raking across the crag prevented even thinking about harder stuff. FFS. A retreat to Farrletter confirmed that idiot bolters and idiot de-bolters have left the crag in a pointless mess, although a few of the routes are still fairly climbable, albeit not when it's getting dark as it happened on Too Farr For The Bear. FFS. The brisk winds were as good for conditions at Ratho as they were at The Souter, so I managed to keep working my way through the quarry's classic trad (in addition to belaying Smally on some distinctly nu-skool trad with his likely E8 first ascent of the blank wall where the Strongarm/Wally protection pillar used to be), specifically Diverticultis which plays nicely to my weaknesses of struggling like a stuck pig on blank bridging corners. Somehow the struggling went upwards enough to deposit me on the rest ledge and easier finish, after I'd rested a good couple of minutes for the pain in my left foot to ease off. Now the weather is pish of course and as much as I'd like to train (too much trad is making me even weaker!) I've slightly strained my forearm dicking around doing a first joint pinky mono pull rockover seconding at The Souter (my own stupid fault) so I best rest for a bit. FFS.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: 6th time lucky...
Post by: comPiler on October 19, 2014, 07:00:27 pm
6th time lucky... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/10/6th-time-lucky.html)
19 October 2014, 12:16 pm



Mungasdale. Thelonious. Typical North West gneiss 15° overhanging thuggery, albeit on a much underused crag. A slightly off-piste inspiration, but that's nothing new for me I guess.

Visit 1, Spring 2012 - First visit, neat little crag, not strong enough nor accustomed enough to Scottish thuggery. Didn't even do Walking On Water.

Visit 2, Spring 2013 - Starting to climb quite well, did do Walking On Water, but too tired / too warm to try Thelo.

Visit 3, Spring 2014 - Far too muggy and midgey. Didn't climb at all, unless backing off Monkey Tribe counts.

Visit 4, Summer 2014 - Far too boiling hot. Tried to get morning shade under the illusion that the "south-west" facing was accurate. SSSW more like so no shade and no chance. Walked straight out.

Visit 5, Autumn 2014 - Perfect cool fresh conditions and the main wall was entirely seeping on every route. Did Monkey Tribe and then sacked it off yet again.

Visit 6, Autumn 2014 - Scarcely a week later and brief Indian Autumn and crisp fresh Easterlies gave a bone dry crag and perfect Gneiss conditions. 5 layers on to belay and one power vest on to climb, and finally...

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vlO2S_LkZY8/VEOpLQJv84I/AAAAAAAABRc/jmW594-23LA/s1600/fiend_thelo1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vlO2S_LkZY8/VEOpLQJv84I/AAAAAAAABRc/jmW594-23LA/s1600/fiend_thelo1.jpg)

A ridiculous amount of effort and dedication to a 2 star, split grade, 15m route that no-one's climbed, hardly anyone has heard of, at a crag few people have visited?? Yes. But a ridiculous amount of satisfaction unlocking the desperate boulder problem start and a ridiculous amount of pleasure pushing past the pump and yarding up steep jugs all the way to the top.

This was one of the highlights of what is probably the final reliable jaunt to the North West holy grail for this year - although I am still hoping for some technical trad suntrap action on the pseudo-grit of Ardmair and Diabeg if conditions allow - and once again the area was stunning in the autumn sun:

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dyK0MLhnpoU/VEOqucX5yUI/AAAAAAAABSI/y4zbViQwH2k/s1600/coigach.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dyK0MLhnpoU/VEOqucX5yUI/AAAAAAAABSI/y4zbViQwH2k/s1600/coigach.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UoZfSfeylU4/VEOqJ4Af4DI/AAAAAAAABR0/FYXKR_NAWGM/s1600/nervedamage.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UoZfSfeylU4/VEOqJ4Af4DI/AAAAAAAABR0/FYXKR_NAWGM/s1600/nervedamage.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U4mJMtD5mY4/VEOqIgjE0TI/AAAAAAAABRk/xAdtV1GB7t8/s1600/ardmairsunset2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U4mJMtD5mY4/VEOqIgjE0TI/AAAAAAAABRk/xAdtV1GB7t8/s1600/ardmairsunset2.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v5_ZVdPECgk/VEOqJQjXavI/AAAAAAAABRs/gdaTtxvW_9A/s1600/gruinardsun2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v5_ZVdPECgk/VEOqJQjXavI/AAAAAAAABRs/gdaTtxvW_9A/s1600/gruinardsun2.jpg)

Unbeatable :)

Edit: Eagle-eyed readers might notice these photos are over-saturated. This is because Google / Blogger has a shitty "Auto-Enhance" feature specifically implemented to give you less control over what you upload and fuck up your photos. After a bit of searching, it's not possible to disable this without joining googleplus and thus no doubt opening up another world of bullshit and social media herding. In short, Google can suck my fucking balls until they choke and I'm sorry on their behalf the photos don't look quite right.

 

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Four Stars?
Post by: comPiler on November 03, 2014, 12:00:16 pm
Four Stars? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/11/four-stars.html)
3 November 2014, 11:45 am



Turn the amp up to 11, Scotland. The jingoistic pride of the SMC and Gary Latter demands that alleged superiority of climbing in Scotland is marked with one extra star compared to the rest of the still-United Kingdom. And who knows they may have a point, it's pretty good up here. Well of course it's pretty good down there too, no-one with half a brain will claim the best of Scotland is inherently better than the best of The Roaches, The Cromlech, Sharpnose etc. But one can agree with the accolade of 4 stars in theory....of course once such a thing exists, it's then there to be mis-used and inappropriated. A brief discussion with Tris and Stu on the concept of 4 stars turned from dismissal of the idea into skepticism of it's application, and further thought gave the following ideas:

New four stars:

Yir VS 4c, Ardnamurchan - Possibly the most perfect easy route i've done in Scotland. A great line, great location, and a full length of varied quality.

Whispering Crack E3 5c, Skye - astonishingly good line searing up a blank wall, with sustained climbing to match. As "must climb" as it gets.

Mother's Pride E4 5c, Skye - Wild, wonderfully positioned and shockingly easy for it's line, as good as jug-hauling gets.

Sarclet Pimpernel E0 5a, Caithness - An "esoteric" gem that laughs in the face of established classics with it's impeccable line above the sea, fascinating rock and delightful climbing.

Wall Of Flame E4 6a, Diabeg - Maybe a slightly personal choice but surely as good as slab climbing gets - like a quadruple size grit slab with holds and gear.

Brave New World E2 5c, Diabeg - Undeniably perfect, a grand line in a beautiful location, solid safe jug-hauling with the crux right at the top.

Arial E3 5c, Loch Maree Crag - If Spirit Air deserves it's 4 stars then so does this. As good and sustained as wall climbing gets, a day's climbing packed into one route.

The Fuhrer E4 5c, Creag Dubh - The Great Wall at Creag Dubh is 4 stars in itself and this route balances out the usual boldness with exceptional quality, with 3 distinct sections of individual excellence.

Pump Up The Jam V5, Skye - The best jamming in Scotland, without question.

Spanking The Monkey V6, Cambusbarron - The best slabby arete climbing in Scotland, without question.

Gale Force V7, Laggan - A stunning line, with continuous technical, powerful and committing climbing above a good landing.

Brin Done Before V5, Brin Rock - Geometrically irresistable, a definitive old skool E4 6b style highball.

Justified four stars:

The Pillar E2 5b, Diabeg - A stunning sheet of rock with the perfect balance of sustainedness and boldness. Any idiot who waffles on about it being one gets 2 stars maximum.

Monkey Man E3 5c, Sheigra - Dominating, brutal and butch, that gives the Second Geo veteran something meatier to aspire to.

(Grey Panther E1 5b, Skye ) - Stunning line and clearly a stunning climb.

Rat Race E4 6a, Dunkeld - In one pitch, a fantastically meaty and varied pitch, with a bit of everything and a lot of challenge.

The Hill Direct E2 5b, Creag Dubh - The plum line of the fantastic Great Wall, epitomising it's perfect bold jug-pulling. As good as soloing a Ratho F6b!

Romancing The Stone F6c+, The Camel - Why Scottish sport-climbing is far more than lapping Cave Crag routes. Classic conglomerate and perfectly named.

Storm HVS 5a, Glen Nevis - Seems the perfect mid-grade cragging experience, with great climbing and good rock.

Freak Out E4 6a, Glen Coe - A much better climb than I was a climber. Surely the dramatic South East nose is visible from space, and this line is the pick of the crag.

Not four stars:

Acrimonious Acrobat E0 5b, Ardmair - Good. But simply not that good.

The Bug E2 5b, Tollie Crag - Definitely 3 stars, but doesn't quite have the fly-on-the-wall experience of The Pillar.

Bloodlust Direct E2 5b, Sheigra - The worst E2 on the Second Geo wall, a direct finish to better lines with the crux fiddling in cams.

Afterglow E2 5b, Rosehearty - A fine line and elegant introduction to Rosey, but pokey to start and quite short.

(Spaced Out Rockers E4 5c, Reiff ) - Okay it's a great line, but it goes the wrong way!

Marlene F7c, Dunkeld - Painful and not a classic line of weakness.

Silk Purse F7c+, Dunkeld - Ditto.

Over The Hill E3 5c, Creag Dubh - More direct, but fiddly moves that spoil the balance of The Hill.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Muenchener on November 03, 2014, 01:06:33 pm
2/27. Not bad considering I've spent far too little time north of the (internal) border.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 03, 2014, 01:54:54 pm
I don't know what the actual list of official ones is, maybe if I get really bored I'll write them out....or maybe not.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Muenchener on November 03, 2014, 02:09:00 pm
Well, your list is rather obviously missing things you can't walk to (I assume), Carn Dearg, Shelter Stone, Benn Eighe being the obvious contenders.

I still have the old Howett Scottish Selected Climbs; am deliberately not buying the two volume Gary Latter until I actually have definite travel plans, partner lined up etc., because otherwise I'd do nothing but sit staring at it and sighing longingly.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 03, 2014, 02:25:32 pm
You would indeed! His guides might be a little bit biased and a little bit inaccurate but boy a guide full of photo-topos is so inspiring.

I do know he's got a 4 star Moderate ridge traverse on the outskirts of the Cuillin :)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Muenchener on November 03, 2014, 02:29:28 pm
You would indeed! His guides might be a little bit biased and a little bit inaccurate but boy a guide full of photo-topos is so inspiring.

I do know he's got a 4 star Moderate ridge traverse on the outskirts of the Cuillin :)

Sgurr Dubh Mhor Slabs  I presume. Absolutely fantastic, best easy rock route in the UK.

If not the world. (Although I admit there are some fine looking granite slabs in the 5.3 - 5.4ish range in Tuolumne that might also be contenders)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: dave on November 03, 2014, 04:32:14 pm
Dubhs ridge is well weapon.
Title: Hard Grit, Protectable Grit
Post by: comPiler on November 07, 2014, 12:00:26 pm
Hard Grit, Protectable Grit (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/11/hard-grit-protectable-grit.html)
7 November 2014, 11:31 am



Something that may be of use for the talented outsider looking to get an gritstone experience without resorting to truly dangerous routes or even worse the humiliation of headpointing. Most of these should be safe to onsight but they do assume all the usual tricks of the trade i.e. your mate abbing and cleaning it, skill placing a variety of gear, running belayers, coping with long falls etc etc. The list is cribbed from guesswork, 2nd hand information, guidebook descriptions, and some feedback in this thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24910.0.html). It's designed to give a good authentic gritstone experience with plenty of slopers, smears, rounded aretes, blank slabs, brutal cracks etc (so no quarried grit), on routes that should be in good condition (so not much esoteric stuff). Have fun.

Yorkshire:

Giggling Crack E6 6c ***

- Offwidth nearly climbed by Joe Brown in 1950s

The Bottom Line E7 6c **

- Steep rounded and thrutchy

Megadoom E5 6b **

- Wild hanging prow

The Great Flake E6 6b ***

- Technical steep blunt flake

Desert Island Arete E6 6c ***

- Big burly arete

Milky Way E6 6b ***

- Relentless steep crack

Fast Forward E6 6c ***

- Steep rounded and thrutchy

Staffordshire:

Barriers In Time E6 6b ***

- Definitive friction arete above good pro

Northern Comfort E6 6c **

- Hard reachy moves with massive fallout zone

Thing On A Spring E6 7a ***

- Hard reachy cranky with good falloutzone

Against The Grain E6 7a ***

- Ditto

Painted Rumour E6 6a ***

- Huge roof with lying down rest and cunning gear

Counterstroke To Equity E5 6c *

- Smooth slab above good pro

Nature Trail E5 6b **

- Ditto

Master Of Reality E6 6c ***

- Stunning gritstone tufa above good pro

National Acrobat E6 6c ***

- Very safe gruelling thrutch

Ray's Roof E6 6c ***

- Offwidth roof crack

Peak District:

Stanage:

The Crypt Trip E6 6b ***

- Lots of fiddly pro wall climb

Flight Of Ideas E6 7a ***

- Mega arete above good pro

Pete's Arete L of FOI E6 6c **

- Ditto but easier

Scapa Flow E6 6c **

- can't remember

Carpe Diem E6 6c **

- can't remember

The 9 O'Clock Watershed E6 6c **

- Technical prow above good pro

Master Of Disguise E6 6c **

- Burly bulge pulling

Little Women E7 7a **

- can't remember

Groove Is In The Heart E7 7a **

- can't remember

Sad Amongst Friends E6 7a ***

- Steep gruelling mantle

Warmlove E6 7a *

- Ditto but worse

Burbage-Rivelin-Bamford:

Balance It is E7 6c ***

- Mega arete with good fallout zone and possible RP

Life Assurance E6 6b *

- Steep slab needs running belayer

Offspring E5 6b ***

- Face climbing in space

Lost World E6 6c **

- Safe reachy pebble undercutting

Pulsar Direct E6 6b **

- Very steep burly wall

Linkline E6 6c ***

- Ditto

Moolah E5 6b **

- Thin face cranking

New Mediterranean E5 6c **

- Ditto

Trout E6 6b ***

- Definitive grit slab above great gear

Salmon Direct E6 6c ***

- Ditto

Salmon E7 6c ***

- Ditto

Smoked Salmon E7 7a ***

- Ditto.....down from 7b...

Froggat-Curbar-Gardoms:

The Screaming Dream E7 7a **

- Short, steep, and very hard

Beau Geste E7 6c ***

- Hanging arete, safe with cunning

Epiphany E6 6b **

- Bold to start but safe arete above

Crack And Slab E6 6c *

- Hard crack, reachy slab, good pro

Mensa E6 6b **

- Arete with enough pro

Slab And Crack E7 6b ***

- Highball start, crucial RPs above

Rigid Digit E5 6b **

- Tricky groove climbing.

Janus E6 6b ***

- Ditto but more so, great line

Moonshine E5 6b ***

- Bulging rounded thin crack

Gardoms-Cratcliffe-Black Rocks:

Mickey Finn E6 6b ***

- Burly roofs, may need a clean.

Spanish Fly E6 6c **

- Burlier roof, pre-placed good RP at this grade

Perfect Day E5 6b ***

- Steep rounded wall above great pro

Make it Snappy E6 6b ***

- Safe enough arete

Reticent Mass Murderer E5 6b **

- Brutal thin crack

Genocide E6 6c **

- Sheer reachy wall above good pro

Kaluza Klein E7 6c ***

- Classic arete needs jumping belayer

Discombobulator E5 6c **

- Thin cranky wall

Untoward E5 6b **

- Techy arete

Camel Hot E6 6b **

- Steep arete with decent gear

There may be more...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Stabbsy on November 07, 2014, 01:17:24 pm
Hard Grit, Protectable Grit (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/11/hard-grit-protectable-grit.html)
7 November 2014, 11:31 am

The Bottom Line E7 6c **

- Steep rounded and thrutchy


Looked like the thread was missing from this last time I was there. I don't know whether the thread itself has broken or it just needs some new tat.
Title: Whinging trad fanny...
Post by: comPiler on November 08, 2014, 06:00:20 pm
Whinging trad fanny... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/11/whinging-trad-fanny.html)
8 November 2014, 3:03 pm



It's now past the year anniversary of the successful resolution of The Great Ratho Retrobolting Farce, in which the fine result of removing most of the retro-bolts and highlighting the quality trad and clearing up the quarry vied for prominence with highlighting the idiocy of some of the myopic sport climbing fanatics. An amusing contrast came from people who claim to like both trad and sport - as if that's justification for retrobolting!? - but doing the bare minimum of trad climbing presumably only when Dunkeld and Dumby are a bit too warm, whilst at the same time equally deluded members of the pro-retro-bolting faction were dismissing pro-balance / pro-consultation climbers as, and I quote, "whinging trad fannies". I'm trying to recall anyone I know on the side of the common sense as being a pure trad climber doing just the bare minimum of sport, and I'm struggling. Big Bob who was just off to Sardinia, warming up for his F8a plans at Costa Blanca in Easter?? Jamie Sparkes who bolted Balgone Heughs and the quarry opposite Ratho (aptly showing the potential without retro-bolting)?? Hmmmm...

As for myself. Well, here's the Scottish sport (and mixed) crags THIS particularly "whinging trad fanny" has climbed at:

The Camel

Brin Rock

Moy Rock

Creag Bheag

Creag An Amalaidh

Creag Nan Cadhag

Creag Nan Luch

Goat Crag

Glutton Crag

Glen Ogle Sunnyside

Glen Ogle Darkside

Ardvorlich

Dunira

Comrie Crag

Strathyre

Bennybeg

Rockdust

Dunkeld

Cambus O May

Red Wall Quarry

Boltsheugh

The Keel

Legaston Quarry

Ley Quarry

Balmashanner

Rob's Reed

Kirrie Hill

Elephant Rock

Arbroath

North Berwick Law

Ratho Quarry

Dunglas

Dumbarton

Balgone Heughs

Dumbuck

So, about that line of argument that our side didn't understand Scottish sport climbing and the need for it's development again................???



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: More trad fannying...
Post by: comPiler on November 15, 2014, 12:00:23 am
More trad fannying... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/11/more-trad-fannying.html)
14 November 2014, 9:36 pm



Someone was asking what I'd been up to recently, so here it is:

Dunkeld: Went to do some of the easier Extremes on the right, they were all seeping apart from Tombstone which is jolly good fun but I'd already done it. So Plan B was to climb up to the crux of High Performance, fiddle in loads of flared wires, pull up disconsolantly a few times and then take all the wires out and reverse comfortably to the ground, just like the previous 2 attempts. Something went wrong with this plan, I got hampered by some excellent cool conditions on the sparse dry rock and the after effects of a V5-flashing session at Ratho the previous day and forgot to downclimb and upclimbed instead after only a few tentative pulls. Still one of the harder moves I've done on trad and harder than two apparent 6b cruxes I've been on. Amusingly I have a sporadic climbing partner who claims it's "not hard for 6a". Even though she has been a classic under-performer and did it as her first English 6a lead before spending a spring in Spain and onsighting F7c (or maybe it was F7b+ I forget, anyway far harder than I've managed in 16+ years of pushing myself climbing), and basically wouldn't know an easy 6a move if it came up and bit her skinny strong arse.

Meikle Ross: Some guy on the interwebz had been posting pictures of him "climbing" Sunshine Superman as a headpoint with the gear in place (!) and upgrading it to E5 (!!) and somehow contrary to all that is decent and respectable people were actually praising this failure. I had to go down and correct this.....error, and despite being hampered by sweltering early November heat and being a hard E4 onsight, I did:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g2FtL9eZVLY/VGZyHuD7djI/AAAAAAAABS4/DWxC4EA26VM/s1600/sunshine1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g2FtL9eZVLY/VGZyHuD7djI/AAAAAAAABS4/DWxC4EA26VM/s1600/sunshine1.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-krTovcbkbIo/VGZyH0xOICI/AAAAAAAABS8/evz_rcyxB1s/s1600/sunshine2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-krTovcbkbIo/VGZyH0xOICI/AAAAAAAABS8/evz_rcyxB1s/s1600/sunshine2.jpg)

Quite rewarding as although it's eliminate to start it's brilliant to finish with some fierce steep slab moves around the overlap. My feet were killing after spending quite a while hanging around working out moves and getting in the right gear, but thankfully my spare comfy shoes were good enough for Corridors Of Power which was a bit primitive compared to the usual greywacke crimping delights:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6bjrrezn3Zc/VGZy4uJgOcI/AAAAAAAABTI/IKvakhY-188/s1600/corridors4.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6bjrrezn3Zc/VGZy4uJgOcI/AAAAAAAABTI/IKvakhY-188/s1600/corridors4.jpg)

All in all a very nice day down at the seaside...

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N_YLOOhMsRY/VGZzIqncZ4I/AAAAAAAABTQ/_HucR73RmKA/s1600/lighthouse2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N_YLOOhMsRY/VGZzIqncZ4I/AAAAAAAABTQ/_HucR73RmKA/s1600/lighthouse2.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-trdFOzbpwk8/VGZzMbWU5jI/AAAAAAAABTY/7RyzgQkGPlc/s1600/moon1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-trdFOzbpwk8/VGZzMbWU5jI/AAAAAAAABTY/7RyzgQkGPlc/s1600/moon1.jpg)

Ardmair and Diabeg: Were the also down by the seaside (or close enough!) for the only other trip of note, a surprising post-match bonus up again around Wester Ross. Glorious weather stolen from the rest of the drizzly country, a last minute plan, a night in the Ledgowan Lodge bunkhouse sampling whiskies from the hotel, and conditions that were too warm for my plans at Ardmair and too warm for my plans at Diabeg but I pushed on through yet more foot-pain with the latter and managed Instant Muscle:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h4CKJXderes/VGZz-vAhYrI/AAAAAAAABTk/RtaMcwDi7fo/s1600/fiend_muscle1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h4CKJXderes/VGZz-vAhYrI/AAAAAAAABTk/RtaMcwDi7fo/s1600/fiend_muscle1.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JzNy4AdWKaU/VGZz_KxiEzI/AAAAAAAABTo/giZHkiU2SPo/s1600/fiend_muscle2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JzNy4AdWKaU/VGZz_KxiEzI/AAAAAAAABTo/giZHkiU2SPo/s1600/fiend_muscle2.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-58pvm41y_qs/VGZz-RP5BaI/AAAAAAAABTg/nXTPJ9MizeY/s1600/fiend_muscle3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-58pvm41y_qs/VGZz-RP5BaI/AAAAAAAABTg/nXTPJ9MizeY/s1600/fiend_muscle3.jpg)

Not bad I guess although I am still mopping up my dribble in anticipation of using the two new epic Yorkshire Gritstone guides but someone needs to start mopping up the fucking drizzle first as the weather is pretty dreary across Scotland and even worse down there (surely that ain't right) so although the grit has been called it hasn't justified the drive down yet. I live in hope as it's what excites me most this winter - hurrah for new definitive guides (until I get sandbagged to fuckery and start moaning about them...;))



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 18, 2014, 08:21:16 am
Great pics, climbing and non-climbing
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 18, 2014, 06:26:23 pm
Thanks Chris. Credit goes to good autumn light, and my brother's Ricoh GXR with a great interval timer mode, that I nabbed off him - although the Meikle Ross scenery ones were with my old battered Sony HX5.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 19, 2014, 10:24:07 am
I really like the two scenery ones. Interval timer is dead handy, used it when bouldering on my tod on the coast a few times.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: sherlock on November 19, 2014, 10:50:58 am
Yeah,Fiend excellent pics.Reminded me I've not been down there for 28 years.....shit,who knows where the time goes :ohmy:
Title: Success??
Post by: comPiler on November 27, 2014, 12:00:06 pm
Success?? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/11/success.html)
27 November 2014, 11:09 am



A while ago I wrote about people claiming their "First E-whatever!" whilst actually failing on standard mid-grade routes, or rather pre-failing by not even trying to climb the route, instead avoiding it by headpointing / top-roping. I actually seemed to get some hysterical bleating in response, well at least I think I did, I gave up reading when there was the first whiff of the usual "but people can do what they want" waffle. Strange how some people put the effort in to get their knickers in a twist about something so common sensical, but then don't bother making any other comments on the positive stuff I write about Scottish climbs and scenery (at least a couple of people have noticed I post that too)... All very Daily Mail reader, but perhaps not so surprising. What was surprising was a friend who said he appreciated that particular blog as it made him think a bit about his climbing and his current temptation to headpoint a few routes, and that maybe he could resist that temptation for a while and find other ways to progress with his climbing.

Which got me thinking - I'd posted about the failure of headpointing mid-grade trade routes (which both posts apply to, NOT to new routes, cutting edge routes, esoteric early repeats etc), but not about how to avoid that failure, avoid that temptation in the first place - THAT could be something useful. So, some ideas on how not to pre-fail:

Firstly, the main reason for pre-failing:

"I think this route is too hard for me to climb now"
(Therefore I won't try to, I'll avoid climbing it by top-roping etc etc)

I'm sure most other reasons will boil down to that. In particular the kneejerk counter of "But it's just what they want to do" is immediately counter-countered by considering why one would "want" to headpoint etc: Because it's personally preferable to onsighting that route. Why? Because there must be something about the onsight that makes it less preferable, and that's almost certainly *some* difficulty with the onsight, meaning: "I think this route is too hard for me to climb now".

So taking that reason, one can break it down into overlapping constituent issues:

"I think" - perception / information.

"this route is too hard for me" - difficulty / ability.

"right now" - current situation.

And try some suggestions how to overcome those issues:

1. Gather as much information as possible.

No necessarily enough to spoil the experience, although a beta-flash is still a good effort. Sometimes the guidebook info is well researched and you can rely on it to know the route's challenge, but not always. If there is any doubt then check forums, ask for general information, speak to people who have done it. Find out the sort of information that would make an accurate guidebook description.

2. Inspect the route from as many natural angles as you can.

I.e. gather as much of your own information as possible. Look from the sides, look from the top, do adjacent routes. If there are sections that put you off onsighting, see if you can get a better look under your own steam.  

3. Get your partner to abseil down, clean and check it.

If the route really needs checked out or cleaned, then get your mate to do it (assuming they don't want to do the same route!). It's that simple! They can give it a thorough scrub and make sure the information is accurate. In all 3 information gathering options, the route will still have some essential mystery but there could be crucial hints so you KNOW rather than THINK about it's difficulty.

4. Analyse what the main difficulties are on the route and what abilities you would need to improve.

If the route is too hard, or you're simply not good enough to do it, work out why. Too bold? Too pumpy? Too technically hard? Etc. Rather than trying to avoid that real challenge, work out why it is tempting to avoid it, and what you would need to improve to actually tackle it.

5. Train towards the route(s).

Following from the above, actually put the effort to BE good enough to do the route. If you're looking at routes that you're not certain about onsighting, you should be wanting a challenge and you should be willing to improve and try hard to do so. Train physically and mentally to improve to meet that challenge.

6. Stack all the odds in your favour.

Use all the usual tips and tricks with optimal gear, chalk, shoes, clothes, belayer, warming-up, timing, weather, etc. Many small factors can add up to make a big enough difference to make the route feasible, so analyse all aspects of your preparation and logistics to make them optimal.

7. See if it is possible to engage with the route at all.

If it's a general challenge, see how far it is possible to climb up and downclimb. See if there is a ledge or good rest to get to to evaluate how feasible it is to continue. If it's bold or dangerous, see if there are any places with good protection, and how far past it you can go before either having to commit into danger or being able to fall safely. Even if the whole route seems too daunting it might be possible to start it, and maybe then finish it.

8. Be prepared to try and fail.

Failure is always a possibility, it's the risk associated with any challenge. But it's not a certainty unless you've already failed. Given a choice to try and fail, or fail by not even trying, choose the former. Once that's accepted, at least you can give it a go, it's better than giving up in the first place.

9. Heed conditions and choose the right time.

If the route seems to be too hard right now, maybe the timing is wrong. Some of the odds refuse to be stacked when you want them - weather and personal condition especially - so keep that in mind and be prepared to choose the right time. Learn the factors needed to make Plan A work....and have a Plan B too.

10. Take a longer view and save the route for the future.

The route will always be there and for most people the opportunity to try it properly will crop up again. Unless you're an OAP and about to permanently move abroad, there's no need to be impatient and not give yourself and the route a chance. You don't HAVE to headpoint the route now, see what you're capable of in a month or a year or a decade.

And if all else fails....just don't do it. There's always a choice. There's always the option to simply accept the route is too hard and walk away. There is no shame in that honesty and acceptance and respect for the route and respect for good style.

Apologies if any of this isn't as clear or as ethically strict as it should be, I've been trying to write this for ages and got bored of it. As usually, any complaints can be forwarded to The Department Of People Who Give A Shit, Somewhere Far Far Away, thanks.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: The wrong side of the pebble.
Post by: comPiler on December 05, 2014, 06:00:06 pm
The wrong side of the pebble. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/12/the-wrong-side-of-pebble.html)
5 December 2014, 2:38 pm



I think I have improved as a climber since living in Scotland. I have more experience, more mileage on a variety of rock-types, more knowledge of dealing with climbing outside of my comfort zone, more tricks and tactics to use, more confidence due to falling practise, more ability to crank through moves in lead, more awareness of climbing challenges and how to deal with them.

However. I'm not any taller and my skin isn't any less sweaty and I don't have any more ability to hit the ground and bounce rather than break.

So when I go back down to the gritstone and expect to apply all I've learnt and all I've improved at, it's not necessarily going to mean SHIT. Sure last winter I had a pretty good trip (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/peak-practice.html) at exactly this time, but the luck-based scrittle is as fickle as it is frictional and rounded and success and confidence on one trip / day / route / move is no guarantee of the next. This was well demonstrated on our Stanage day when I spent longer on the single crux move of Count's Wall (HVS/E1) than I did on the entire route of Counterblast (E2/3). Rhyme or reason?? None at all. After a couple of sketchy days I did manage something cool that reminds why grit is worth persisting with, Thumper @ Eastby:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7nUIEOW1Mc4/VIHAiwFuDEI/AAAAAAAABUA/3ZlACZKfSkk/s1600/fiend_thump1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7nUIEOW1Mc4/VIHAiwFuDEI/AAAAAAAABUA/3ZlACZKfSkk/s1600/fiend_thump1.jpg) Still too warm despite being -2'C in the shade at the car.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--ZNvegR4R9k/VIHAjtumUGI/AAAAAAAABUI/CbAJCykU0KA/s1600/fiend_thump2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--ZNvegR4R9k/VIHAjtumUGI/AAAAAAAABUI/CbAJCykU0KA/s1600/fiend_thump2.jpg)Run out like a trout.

 Aside from that, this mini-trip was hampered by various things including too much driving, some poor route choices (morpho shite like Dracula) and some slightly poor conditions (thick clart on a first Eastby visit, dank top-outs at Crow Crag). So I've learnt a few things for next time:

The few glimmers of success and trusting smears have maintained the psyche to go back down as soon as possible too. If the weather allows. Despite being better than the West of Scotland, it doesn't always end up looking like this (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=249527)...(sorry I can't upload that photo here as Googles fucking disgracefully awful intrusive photo enhance shit utterly ruins it even if I pre-tweak the saturation down.)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Slipping it in.
Post by: comPiler on December 22, 2014, 06:00:17 pm
Slipping it in. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/12/slipping-it-in.html)
22 December 2014, 12:54 pm



This winter season I've been inspired to focus on the gritstone, because there's lots of it, there's great new guides, I feel pretty confident after another decent trad year, and it should be a bit more feasible logistically than Scottish winter cragging.

There may be a high correlation between that decision and the weather being relentlessly cunting awful.

I think this is the worst start to the grit season I can ever recall. Sure there have been a few decent days - sandwiched between storms, showers, and continuous rain - and very rarely adjacent enough to warrant a trip down. My browser is getting worn out refreshing the Metoffice forecast for Skipton and Hathersage, although it is forecast to be glorious on Christmas Day. When I will be in London. Fucking arse!

Actually it's got to the stage of putting up with ludicrously inefficient and expensive single day trips down, albeit only as far as the most Northerly crags e.g. Slipstones.

So we headed down on a rare day of amazing conditions with the plan to warm-up gently, do some highballs and soloing and maybe the odd lead if it was warm enough, or some harder frictional bouldering if it was cold enough. It turns out that conditions were a bit too amazing and the wrong way round - the bouldering end was just sheltered enough to be warm, the routes end was just exposed enough to be bloody freezing. And I forgot that the sheer clean grit of Slippys was generally steep and the seemingly positive crimps were generally cruel on the fingertips. It's a beautiful grit there but a strange sort of grit. Still it was good fun and I got inspired for more action there, which might happen in 2018. No complaints about the beauty of the day though:

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lhp66LoXmRM/VJgUNwK16wI/AAAAAAAABV8/57fIQtLfnHg/s1600/fiend_agra.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lhp66LoXmRM/VJgUNwK16wI/AAAAAAAABV8/57fIQtLfnHg/s1600/fiend_agra.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nn5mxSAzL18/VJgUOFruBoI/AAAAAAAABWA/CltkC_nE40g/s1600/fiend_leany.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nn5mxSAzL18/VJgUOFruBoI/AAAAAAAABWA/CltkC_nE40g/s1600/fiend_leany.jpg)

And that's that. I might be able to sneak something in around Christmas if the weather allows. Otherwise I will be furiously considering a trip abroad as soon as possible.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: The year in numbers.
Post by: comPiler on December 28, 2014, 06:00:22 pm
The year in numbers. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2014/12/the-year-in-numbers.html)
28 December 2014, 1:23 pm



Just because. This year I've mostly failed on exploration, trips away, and new venues, but I have done a good variety of Scottish and Northern England stuff, and maintained a fairly pleasing standard. The hardest things I've done in order:

Wheels Of Fire E4 6a *** (Bowderstone Crag)

Exquisite wall-climbing with wild reachy slapping way out from gear. Exhilarating.

Masterspy E4 6a *** (Wilton 1)

Action packed sketching with two hard cruxes. Rewarding.

Thelonius E4/5 6a/b *** (Mungasdale)

A long term ambition over several visits. Wonderful climb with a very hard bouldery start and great jug-hauling above.

First Of Class E4 6a ** (Far Hill Crag)

Really good, bold committing face climbing that I really had to go for it on.

Strangeways E4 6b ** (Reiff)

Great climbing with positive cranking, the crux is placing gear without blocking holds, I outwitted that by placing a wire that fell out as I went passed it!

Boxed E4 6a *** (Mull)

More great positive cranking, really good steep climb that I had to use all my reserves of determination on.

Scorched Earth E4 6a * (Burnt Crag)

Well-named on a hot Easter day. Wild and weird, squirming into a groove then leaping for a jug ledge in front of a some amused Lakes old-timers "did you see that? he fookin jumped for it! move of t'day, that!"

Sunshine Superman E4 6a * (Meikle Ross)

Fiercely thin greywacke slabbing with a very precarious crux. Very cool even if my feet didn't forgive me until the next day.

Inquisition E4 6a *** (Reecastle)

Typically brilliant Reecastle face climbing, two cruxes, one bold and one wild and goey. Maybe ran it out a bit too much, but lovely route.

Instant Muscle E4 6a ** (Diabeg)

Good but surprisingly hard slab climbed on a beautiful November day. Had to really go for it.

Ambalite E4 6a ** (Iron Crag)

Marble Staircase's scarier twin, still delectable but even bolder and more intricate. Good headgames!

Wee One E4 6a * (Glen Nevis)

 (Up from E3). Fierce and continuous bouldering to an on/off final crux. 6m of every move being 6a!

Snorting Quack E4 6a ** (Mull)

So many RPs to fiddle in, so little time. Not the usual Ardtun crack romp, quite intricate indeed.

Wet Pussy E4 6a ** (Craig Stirling)

Atypical Aberdeen schist - easy to protect and not a gruelling pumpfest, instead a technical delight with a very committing and thoughtful crux.

Mingy Metro E4 6a * (The Souter)

(Up from E3). Testing, brutally hard to place crucial RPs and sliders. Very good climbing though.

Marble Staircase E4 6a *** (Iron Crag)

Good value bold and committing wall-climbing. Delectable.

Dry Grasp E4 6a *** (Falcon Crag)

Fantastic wall-climbing in a fantastic position, postive cranking with with a bold start, switch brain off and bravery on.

Stand and Deliver E4 6a ** (Gruinard Crag)

(Down from E5 and steady for E4). Great face climbing high on the crag and quite amenable with a bit of go for it.

The Smouldering E4 6a * (Glen Coe)

A hidden gem with a steady but thin crux and a lonely wall above. Quite similar to many Lakes climbs I did.

Edge Of Insanity E4 5c ** (Glen Croe)

Never has a ladder of jugs felt so committing or exposed! Easy once you've done it, but space-walking.

Fever Pitch E4 6a ** (Dumbarton)

Also fairly easy once you've done it, but it doesn't feel like it looking down at the RPs beneath your feet after the goey crux! A grand line and a great trad feel.

Clementine Variant E4 6a ** (Dome Butress)

Outwitting the filthy and lethal central section with a small detour, but still technical and elegant low down and scary high up. An underrated crag.

Lorelei  E4 5c ** (Loch Tollaidh)

Another beautiful slab. Reasonably steady, reasonably protected, consistently great climbing on great rock.

Velvet Glove E4 6a *** (Limekilns)

Neil said it was easy, I didn't believe him and pretended it was hard, until I just did it the easy way. Less of a crack thrash, more of a fun jug romp.

Thumper E4 5c *** (Eastby)

Quintessential E4 5c head-games. Delicate crux at 10m, good gear at 5m. Classic!

Frustration E4 5c *** (Glen Shian)

(Down from E5 and steady at E4). Beautiful climb up a beautiful slab. As good as bold crimpy slabs get!

Armalite E4 5c ** (Raven Crag)

A weaving romp up a nice wall. Full of surprisingly good holds and unsurprisingly good moves. Really pleasant.

Noble Savage E4 5c ** (Ardmair)

Felt rather scary as an E3 warm-up, worth it's upgrade. Okay but not the usual Ardmair calibre.

~{§}~

And the hardest things I haven't done, in order:

Pockets Of Excellence E5 6a ** (Glen Croe)

A bit damp, a bit unclimbed, a bit fucking hard and blind. Did the first crux to the big and wet pocket, then no idea above.

Run From Home E5 6b * (Glen Nevis)

Nails razor-crimping past one BD 0 offset? Ran out of psyche for that.

??? E5 6a *** (North Yorks)

Fierce crack, good but hard, bad conditions, bad wrist.

Blade Runner Direct E4 6a *** (Auchinstarry)

Did all the hard/bold climbing on the direct (which is easier than the higher crux of the original), did the higher crux and fell of the final tricky bit I'd done before as part of Nijinski. Too warm weather but still ARSE!

The Pugilist Dir E4 6a *** (Floor's Craig)

Climbing was piss easy and very good. Placing the crux cam was horrible and desperate. Waste of good moves.

~{§}~

A few things I can note about this list:

That's all for now.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Resolve.
Post by: comPiler on January 08, 2015, 06:00:21 pm
Resolve. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/01/resolve.html)
8 January 2015, 5:38 pm



Thankfully my New Year's resolutions don't include timely and prompt blog updates. Actually, they don't include much of interest but it's useful for me to write them down as a reference. Possibly like last year, I've learnt as much from what I've been doing right as from I've been doing wrong or not doing - some of these are of the "keep doing this, it works" ilk. Others are common sense. If only I could apply that more regularly.

Have many more trips abroad.

- Really missed out on this last year, I feel undernourished for exploration and new venues! Hell I'd even take Euro-limestone at the moment.

Climb South of the border.

- I've done enough in  Scotland and don't have many inspirations left apart from a few odds and  sods. I enjoyed getting back down last year, so I'm getting more psyche  for other stuff around the UK: More on the grit in winter, and more in  Mid-Wales, South West, and North Wales come spring and summer.

Keep training throughout the year - wall, gym, active rest.

-  This has worked well for me, I haven't noticed much climbing  improvement apart from a bit better core tension, but I have felt good  keeping up with the training and I'm sure the benefits are there.

Do more stretching.

-  The one bit of training I don't really do apart from in between  warm-ups at the bouldering wall. I should do more as I'm sure I could  benefit from it, injury-prevention and flexibility-wise.

Try falling practise on gear outdoors.

- I'm now feeling  generally comfortable with regular falling practise indoors, but I  still feel a bit wary outdoors. Not due to the protection situation, but  more the variety of fall zones and fall directions. I think practising a  bit outdoors could help translate that comfort and give me more  confidence.

Get going earlier in the morning.

- I'm rubbish at this, and it means I end up rushing around and/or missing out on good climbing days. I just need to get started earlier.

Start more trips in the evening to be ready the next day.

- Similar to above. I struggle to motivate myself for a long drive in the dark evenings, but it's more efficient and climbing-beneficial to get it out of the way then, get a decent night in a hostel and a decent start the next day.

Make clearer and firmer plans esp. with disorganised partners.

- I'm rubbish at organisation anyway, and need to improve on that in general, and try to make firmer plans even if I have to change or cancel them due to the weather, rather than waiting to see what happens and then not making any plans. I need to do this even more so with some good partners who are a bit haphazard too!

So there we go. Simple and fairly mundane - unlike actually putting them into practice. But I'll try...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: A Grit Game
Post by: comPiler on January 09, 2015, 06:00:05 pm
A Grit Game (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/01/a-grit-game.html)
9 January 2015, 2:00 pm



So let's play a game Fiend. The purpose is simple, the concept is simple. Winning the game....may be difficult.

Purpose: To do some really cool grit climbs I'd have been intimidated by before....by trying to apply the confidence and experience I've gained in Scotland to the gritstone, and thus seeing how well I've improved generally.

Concept: Climb more Peaks/Yorks grit E3s/E4s/6as in 2 seasons (2013/14 & 2014/15) than I did in 8 years living in Sheffield.

Calculations:

(N.B. I've changed a few grades to reflect reality...)

2001-2009:

9 E4s (The Brush Off, The Knock, Moonwalk, Calvary, The Strangler, The Phantom, Pillar Of Judgement, Acid Drop, Demon Rib)

29 E3s (Big Greeny, The Flakes, Fat Chance, Hallmark, Jelly Ache, Boothill, Ignis Fatuus, Exit, Party Animal, Reprieve, Down To Earth, The Crocodile, Waterloo Sunset, Impossible Slab, In Off, Wall End Slab Direct, Ashes, Parallel Piped, Charm, Iron Road, Ascent Of Man, San Melas, The Swan, Chalkstorm, Apaloosa Sunset, Crystal Voyager, Autumn Wall (not E4, steady for E3), Gypfast (ditto), Jetrunner (ditto))

9 6as (The Knock, Moonwalk, Calvary, Big Greeny,  Jelly Ache, Down To Earth, Ascent Of Man, Crystal Voyager, Jetrunner)

(not counting: 3 E3s 94-97 (Long Johns Slab, Great Slab, High Flyer))

2013-2015:

3 E4s (Stanleyville, Constipation, Thumper)

7 E3s (Four Pebble Slab, The Beautician (not E4, solid E3), DIY, Lazy Day, Hunky Dory, Sinister Rib, Weaver's Wall)

3 6as (Constipation, DIY, Lazy Day)

Which means I have to do:

6 E4s

22 E3s

6 6as

...in maybe 4 months...


In my favour:

- Almost all my recent forays on gritstone have given me confidence and I seem to be able to rattle off routes fairly rapidly.

- With everything now clearly documented in great definitive guides, there are literally hundreds of routes that inspire me, covering every style and climatic condition.

- Even when the weather gets warmer, there are still many exposed / shady venues that have inspiring routes.

- I don't have much inspiring me elsewhere in the country so can focus well on this idea.

- Many places I want to visit are boring trade honeypots, so it should be easy to find people to climb with.

- Northumberland and grit bouldering is a good way to keep on the boil when the weather prevents a proper trip.

Stacked against me:

-- I now live 4 hours from the grit rather than 10 minutes.

-- So far in 2015 the weather seems to be utterly fucking abysmally atrocious.

As I say....a simple game....but maybe very hard to win....All the determination in the world counts for nothing with a forecast like this. (http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcqz6kgdxdtm)

Hmmmm.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: I can't believe it's not grit.
Post by: comPiler on January 10, 2015, 06:00:07 pm
I can't believe it's not grit. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/01/i-cant-believe-its-not-grit.html)
10 January 2015, 2:00 pm



And at any rate you wouldn't want to spread it on toast. My grit psyche is still high, almost as high as the winds, humidity, and rainfall probability which is preventing any trips South of the Wall. So as a plan B I went bouldering on the next best thing: Shaftoe in Northumberland, which is as grit as grit is, in fact more grit than some grit. Plus it's rather good despite being an epic gruelling slog down the A68 to get there. Anyway, the weather was great, we warmed up in the sun, did a few steeper problems in the breeze, then as the wind and cloud came over took advantage of truly perfect conditions in the ravine to finally do a previous nemesis problem, the frictional slimper delight of Smooth Wall:

Smooth Wall (http://vimeo.com/115996687) from Fiend (http://vimeo.com/user1353663) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).

Stevie was getting some nice shots with his GoPro so here are a few of those (slightly fucked by Googles auto-photo-fucker of course):

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1_KttRmclZA/VK8BmTJ1cCI/AAAAAAAABXM/NhDAh5sgp5E/s1600/fiend_6b2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1_KttRmclZA/VK8BmTJ1cCI/AAAAAAAABXM/NhDAh5sgp5E/s1600/fiend_6b2.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I13L7C5F0bo/VK7_qLeTq4I/AAAAAAAABWU/zAdIn_AtTr0/s1600/fiend_6b3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I13L7C5F0bo/VK7_qLeTq4I/AAAAAAAABWU/zAdIn_AtTr0/s1600/fiend_6b3.jpg)Mmmmm slopers.

Prior to this and prior to 2015 appearing out of nowhere, I did actually get down to the grit grit, including amongst other places Almscliff, the most overrated crag in Yorkshire that people only go to because it's the quickest drying crag in the entire UK. I have a love/hate relationship with it: Some of the routes and problems are pretty cool, but the relentless hordes and unforgivable sin of giving the distinctly medicore arbitrary link-up semi-route Great Western 3 stars leave a disinterested taste in my maw. I also seem to end up there in slightly iffy weather due to having been drizzled off elsewhere, thus making the bouldering feel even grimmer than usual. On the other hand this was not the case the other week, when the weather was truly magnificent and the inspiration to rattle off a few short and thuggy routes was high. I didn't do anything that hard (Whisky Wall turning out to be a steady E2 with bomber gear without the spurious side-runners, but fun and unusually positive pocket-pulling), but I did get cranking pretty readily despite having a week off with a tweaky shoulder over Christmas.

Whisky Wall :(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j0jhPfNLqkY/VK8B2L6LiBI/AAAAAAAABXY/gtDqoU9bRco/s1600/whisky1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j0jhPfNLqkY/VK8B2L6LiBI/AAAAAAAABXY/gtDqoU9bRco/s1600/whisky1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Uf8riZ4Z2NQ/VK8B27wtSFI/AAAAAAAABXs/s2xbJ_ZFCys/s1600/whsiky3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Uf8riZ4Z2NQ/VK8B27wtSFI/AAAAAAAABXs/s2xbJ_ZFCys/s1600/whsiky3.jpg)

Clematis : Actually quite burly and good value.(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jtfo7VFqgi8/VK8BKtX3zeI/AAAAAAAABWo/eNENilzLxnY/s1600/clematis1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jtfo7VFqgi8/VK8BKtX3zeI/AAAAAAAABWo/eNENilzLxnY/s1600/clematis1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YX5Dwru5Vsg/VK8BKcFdZXI/AAAAAAAABWk/VCNo2m62hy0/s1600/clematis2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YX5Dwru5Vsg/VK8BKcFdZXI/AAAAAAAABWk/VCNo2m62hy0/s1600/clematis2.jpg)

 I was climbing with spragglerocks from UKC. She had an adorable  Labrador called Dexter who was the best-behaved crag dog I've met, so  here's some photos of him.(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ok-YE1mJ3Tc/VK8B14ZY5SI/AAAAAAAABXU/BEU4qrH_LtA/s1600/dex1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ok-YE1mJ3Tc/VK8B14ZY5SI/AAAAAAAABXU/BEU4qrH_LtA/s1600/dex1.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mb1UE024WbU/VK8B2QCM97I/AAAAAAAABXc/IB_kIPOWgJo/s1600/dex4.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mb1UE024WbU/VK8B2QCM97I/AAAAAAAABXc/IB_kIPOWgJo/s1600/dex4.jpg)

Before the Almscliff day I had a pre-match warm-up at the Hunter Stones. Jonboy, Cofe and Big Hands were there on the Hunter's Roof thing, Jon did with the customary power squeak. I did this nice V3 arete instead.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OOoj1sDkPTM/VK8BKl4m0UI/AAAAAAAABWs/hPHaYwX_hpE/s1600/fiend_hunter.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OOoj1sDkPTM/VK8BKl4m0UI/AAAAAAAABWs/hPHaYwX_hpE/s1600/fiend_hunter.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Plan B.(loc)
Post by: comPiler on January 23, 2015, 12:00:24 am
Plan B.(loc) (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/01/plan-bloc.html)
22 January 2015, 10:39 pm



Apparently the weather is quite decent down in Peaks/Yorks at the moment - and it makes the snow dumped all over the crags look quite pretty. The gales forecast next week might wipe it away a bit with rain as well as wiping another week's chances of actually getting down there and climbing any grit.

Instead of sulking I've been errr sending. Or smashing, or whatever it is the kids of today do. Climbing small lumps of rocks above large stacks of pads anyway. Some of these lumps of rocks have been larger and some of the stacks of pads have felt smaller, too. And most of them have felt good training for technique, determination, and regular skin loss, as well as being rather fun...

Back Bowden:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1dqrsvMC7F8/VMF0PcYMAxI/AAAAAAAABYA/D_n0lQIfcj0/s1600/fiend_magic.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1dqrsvMC7F8/VMF0PcYMAxI/AAAAAAAABYA/D_n0lQIfcj0/s1600/fiend_magic.jpg)

Sheltering from the wind with Stevie. It was blowy as fuck man at Hazelrigg Wall and pretty mellow on the boulders beneath the Tube. I had lots of ideas and desires here and carefully timed them so I had 30 mins on each project, just enough to get demoralised and move onto the next with similarly no success. The only exceptions were Magic Leap - I hate dynos, this is a complete sandbag and totally misdescribed in the guide ("small but positive holds" - where? "crimp/sidepull" - what? "F6A+" - oh just shut up.), but it is also brilliant as it's not hurtling ineffectually on big holds but instead teetering and falling upwards on rubbish holds. Improbable and fun. The other exception was Mantle Underclass which was more like 30 attempts to failure rather than 30 mins. Still that was better than Mantle Masterclass which I can't imagine ever being possible for my physique. MU I could imagine doing after many hours effort, pretty standard for a F6B. Grades my sweaty RING.

Bowden:

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R5-47CJ0u-M/VMF0ZMPt0sI/AAAAAAAABYI/_UQBnHIHx5M/s1600/fiend_dog.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R5-47CJ0u-M/VMF0ZMPt0sI/AAAAAAAABYI/_UQBnHIHx5M/s1600/fiend_dog.jpg)

Headed down with the McNair and a car full of chatty young things. God knows how we all crammed in but it saved me an hour of driving and meant there was adequate paddage for anything that was desired. Apart from poor Niall who we left on his own to crush some 7C/8As while we bimbled around. I laid Transformer to rest after discovering that I'd been previously trying the much harder RH version. Then spent about 20 goes being unable to lank Y Front Left-Hand (""6B+"") before doing Dog Eat Dog ("7A" going on steady 6C) in 3 goes. Grades my KNOBEND. The latter was pretty satisfying though especially for the amount of trad-style slapping and grinding at the top.

Craigdews:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qeEeO1WhzvM/VMF0h74vT9I/AAAAAAAABYQ/NDR4g6BIJyU/s1600/fiend_app2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qeEeO1WhzvM/VMF0h74vT9I/AAAAAAAABYQ/NDR4g6BIJyU/s1600/fiend_app2.jpg)

A few years ago I walked to this sheer quarried wall in the Galloway hills and rapidly walked away, dismissing it as too high and too blank. It turns out is is the former but not the latter, as just recently some dude called Fletch put up a nu-skool classic 6C(!) highball. So we had to go and repeat it the next day after the first ascent. It delivers as much as it promises and makes Physical Graffiti at Dumby feel like a lowball ladder of crimps. I managed to scrape up it after some scary goes, but knocked a jutting finger nubbin off at the top, and left a slightly crumbly hold (the rest of the slab is immaculate), so will have to go back and stabilise that hold to keep it's classic status.

Carrock Fell:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jhI9jif_YiQ/VMF1PtIfMgI/AAAAAAAABYY/c8Ljj5bETzA/s1600/fiend_carrock.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jhI9jif_YiQ/VMF1PtIfMgI/AAAAAAAABYY/c8Ljj5bETzA/s1600/fiend_carrock.jpg)N.B. I didn't manage this little horror yet, I'll be back...

Finally to ensure that all finger skin is suitable brutalised, we went on a little tour of Carrock. A few steady classics like Captain Kirk, Kit's Arete and Terrace Wall led us up to Stratosfear following the highball psyche, which turned out to be no match for the snowy slope on top of the problem, so we turned down the snowy slope back to the road and finished with a thorough burnout on Left Wall. This is eliminate, morpho, and a complete sandbag on vicious holds, yet somehow is intriguing and entertaining for all that grimness. I eventually found a cunning short person's sequence, caught the top jug, adjusted my hand and slipped off and never reached the lip again. CUNTFLAPS. I'll be back....I might be back into this bouldering malarkey...

(most photos from Mr Weir (http://www.stevieweir.com/).)

The scenery has been quite nice in it's winter plumage too:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-krTI8_cve7I/VMF1iK8yxII/AAAAAAAABYk/ABliNCelkOo/s1600/clatter.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-krTI8_cve7I/VMF1iK8yxII/AAAAAAAABYk/ABliNCelkOo/s1600/clatter.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bDJS5tOQ068/VMF1h4pPzjI/AAAAAAAABYg/v0kY-c0zVlg/s1600/saddleback.jpg)  (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bDJS5tOQ068/VMF1h4pPzjI/AAAAAAAABYg/v0kY-c0zVlg/s1600/saddleback.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Fish out of water.
Post by: comPiler on February 07, 2015, 12:00:18 am
Fish out of water. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/02/fish-out-of-water.html)
6 February 2015, 6:55 pm



Bouldering is full of cunts. Even the most cursory glance will demonstrate this: old cunts who have a lifetime of climbing experience to make anything look effortless, young cunts who are slim fingered and supple and might as well be climbing ladders, dedicated bouldering cunts who live and breathe beastmakers and are thus annoyingly strong, non-dedicated cunts who have excelled in sport climbing or mountain marathons or suchlike and are thus annoyingly fit, local cunts who have done the problems a trillion times and could climb them backwards and blindfold, general skinny cunts including female skinny cunts, all of whom have 3/4 of your power but half your weight, lanky gangly skinny cunts who are all spider limbs, tiny midget skinny cunts who are all sinew and tendon, sandbagging cunts who usually end up writing the guides, sharking cunts who make your project look easy because they are literally climbing double the V-grade. Cunts the lot of them.

Clearly I am none of the above. I am quite good at fiddling nuts in cracks (and equally quite good at arranging and optimising pads, although this only makes the moves easier a tiny percentage of the time), and quite good at exploring and finding off-piste inspiration. Thus I often feel like a fish out of water when dabbling in this game - "what, you wanted me to cram my fingers into that tiny ragged slot and crank a fucking mile to some gash sloper? Dafuck! Can't I just twist some offset wires into the slot and yard up the jugs next to it?".

Despite that I do actually like bouldering a lot and sometimes do it a lot. I am actually a boulderer (and therefore, I suppose, a cunt), because when I do it I like it so much, I'm just a trad climber far more. I guess this way I can justify punting along cocktacularly as training for the greater ranges of the Rhinnogs and Ardmair. Until trad season arrives and I have no stamina, of course!

I've done quite a lot of it this last month. Some of it has gone well, some of it has gone weakly, almost all of it has ended up with skin loss of some description. A small amount has even ended up with competent cranking of some description too. Although I've noticed there is a distinct correlation between my success and which direction the grades are gigantically fucking wrong in. If they're two-plus-grades-out stupid sandbags, I don't do very well. If they're two-plus-grades-out silly soft touches, I do quite a bit better. Funny that. If they're actually accurate, I get *very* confused.

Here's some media:

Cave Problem RH at Bowden Doors. 2nd day on after getting fairly thrashed at Hepburn. Cave LH gets 6B, I flashed it as part of a warm-up, PJ did it 2nd go. Cave RH gets 6B+, that extra grade harder (even after having the McNair demonstrate the beta last time) took us about an hour and a half to work out, and it still felt hard. Cool problem though.

Various problems at Carrock. One of my most successful days bouldering, although I still got my shoes full of snow thrashing between the blocs. Left Wall is supposed to be V4, it took 2 sessions although this might be because it is quite reach dependent what footholds you can use. Absinthe was maybe the same grade (was V6 now V5) before I broke off the starting hold  and left a bigger one (and a better problem), it's now a grade easier than LW. This video also shows my general trend of doing pretty well on steep V5-ish stuff at Carrock. Recently PJ, Tris and I went back in incredibly cold and dry conditions and couldn't make any progress on High Flyer nor Fast Cars - exactly the same grades and genres, exactly the opposite amount of success.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FYziBLrpZQI/VNUKm8pCfWI/AAAAAAAABZI/N49RAjL1dwo/s1600/fiend_dove1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FYziBLrpZQI/VNUKm8pCfWI/AAAAAAAABZI/N49RAjL1dwo/s1600/fiend_dove1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ulMHPXskUWU/VNUKmnznFhI/AAAAAAAABZA/hORc0YOaqlM/s1600/fiend_dove2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ulMHPXskUWU/VNUKmnznFhI/AAAAAAAABZA/hORc0YOaqlM/s1600/fiend_dove2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x28kxqU96ug/VNUKm8dFNBI/AAAAAAAABZE/if1VQfMpnUo/s1600/fiend_dove3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x28kxqU96ug/VNUKm8dFNBI/AAAAAAAABZE/if1VQfMpnUo/s1600/fiend_dove3.jpg)Fungatatus Ejaculatus at Doveholes. No quibbles with this one. Lovely problem with an elegant line, seemingly unfeasible moves to start and committing but easy ones to finish. The quibbles come later in the same delightful day at Kyloe OUT which doesn't have that many mid-grade problems but what it does have are varied and good fun. For example: Christmas Tree Arete Indirect - "6C" in 2 goes and maybe 2 grades easier than Potty Training Left Hand "6B" that took 10 goes at Hepburn. The Fat Lady Sang 6C flash, several grades easier than Mantle Masterclass, Smooth Operator "7A" in 3 goes, maybe 2 grades easier than MM. No arguing with the quality of the last two though, great fun.

I have a sliced blister over an old scar ridge on my left main finger so I need to rest for a couple of days now...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Nibile on February 07, 2015, 06:59:41 pm
Brilliant first paragraph!
Made me think about which kind of cvnt I could possibly be. Probably at least two or three kinds at a time!
 ;D
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 07, 2015, 08:39:01 pm
Definitely the beastmaker-trained annoyingly strong one. Although since you only seem to be training for more beastmaking and of course the BIFF, that's cool in it's own way  ;)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Nibile on February 08, 2015, 11:49:30 pm
 ;D
I went from multipitch classics on the Dolomites, to sport climbing, to bouldering, to board climbing, to fingerboarding.
I wonder how I could get even more uselessly specific.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: LB1782 on February 09, 2015, 08:27:50 am
pinky mono levers with no other fingers trained at all?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on February 09, 2015, 08:59:45 am
No need to ask what you classify me as!

Doveholes, like to get back. Shame there's not more there. Seem to remember a nice sloper problem on the boulder just down from FE.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Nibile on February 09, 2015, 09:14:43 am
pinky mono levers with no other fingers trained at all?
;D
Sadly yes.
Title: Plodding on.
Post by: comPiler on February 19, 2015, 12:00:12 pm
Plodding on. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/02/not-much-has-been-happening.html)
19 February 2015, 11:38 am



Not much has been happening. I've cancelled my grand grit plans for the winter as the weather is just fucking tedious. No matter how confident and inspired I feel in my own climbing, such aspirations just boil down to unfeasible logistics (grit being several hours away) and fighting against something unfightable (conditions that are only good for single sporadic days). After a while it gets too much to bother with. I keep checking the weather just in case but in the meantime I've thankfully got enough psyche for bouldering and that's something that will benefit my climbing too - if my skin recovers enough.

Here's a quick hit trip recently:

 Fiend. Back Bowden. February. (https://vimeo.com/119177454) from Fiend (https://vimeo.com/user1353663) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).

Quite pleased with both of those as Sharp Arete SS (not small arete nor short arete!) had felt very awkward on previous attempts in better weather after better warm-ups. This time I got the knack of it pretty easily. Little Pixies always looked too sharp and fierce but it was actually pretty steady especially when I got the right sequence at the start. Both very enjoyable even if I bruised a finger-tip on the latter.

Since then, and as is often the case following a period of feeling good climbing, I got wiped out by the gayflu of a sort. Mild man-flu combined with an evening of hideous nausea left me on the sofa for 19 hours straight, 3 days to get a proper appetite back and a few more to feel normal. Standard stuff but annoying when I can't train nor capitalise on psyche. I've got to Kyloe In once since then for an easy potter around (turns out the Red Rum area is not so easy, but it is pretty rewarding). The crag is getting ever chalkier at the bottom and ever mossier at the top - a pity as the routes have far better lines and far more classic climbing than the indoor-wall-style crank-a-thons that everyone goes for. Obviously I was guilty as charged this time ;).

Next: More training, more skin loss on sharp holds.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Some recent stuff...
Post by: comPiler on March 12, 2015, 06:00:17 pm
Some recent stuff... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/03/some-recent-stuff.html)
12 March 2015, 5:11 pm



Rothley:

Two 5s from Rothley. (https://vimeo.com/120282960)

Once again it was blowing a gale at Rothley. I've been there twice previously to boulder, once with B when I managed to jump the car on a humpback bridge just before the crag, and it was too warm to do The Long Reach - it looked quite hard to me then. Once on my own when it was blowing the obligatory gale and I couldn't even get warmed up to climb. This time I didn't jump the car and I did put up with the wind, for a while anyway. It was satisying to do The Long Reach, the crux is a very short slap to the jug but it took some working out with the feet, especially not using any of the cleaned footholds other people use. Sitting Arete was also great, the trick being a little swing before moving up to the jug. Going right out on the prow with bad hands and good double heels was really nice.

Shaftoe:

fiend shaftoe2015 (https://vimeo.com/121898348)

Once again it was both boiling hot and blowing a gale at Shaftoe. I've been there several times to boulder previously and it's either boiling in the shelter, freezing in the wind, or both. This time I started at the sweltering South sector, had a look at the previously appealing Butch Catch-Me, but decided that an impending line of relentless razor crimps on gritty, snappy rock with a landing consisting of 1m of flat ground and then a 45° ski slope of dirt and rocks made it less appealing for a solitary project. Little And Often went fine, as did Duvel 8.5 (I had to wait till the next night to get a bottle though), sticking to the Shaftoe theme of being ridiculously graded. Pocket Rocket at the Cave area was a bit warm and seemed ridiculously hard and unpleasant. Conversely, after exploring the baltic Summit area, Little Font was cool but tolerable as the wind dropped, and the previously offputting Surprising Solution went surprisingly easily. A few grades easier than PR? Obviously *rolls eyes*

Edlingham:

fiend edlingham2 (https://vimeo.com/121886233)

More good weather and bad information characterised a return trip to the underrated Edlingham. I went to Bob's Cave area armed with 3 pads, 1 rope, 1 harness and a lot of brushes - everything there gets the (H)ighball rating and looked to be dirty and unclimbed at the finishes. It turns out that yes it did need a good scrub, and no nothing warrants the (H). I'm pretty sure anyone who can do V4-7 off the deck can cope with with VS climbing at 5m above a good landing. I'm also pretty sure that anyone who can do V4-7 off the deck will be as confused by the grades as I was, they're all screwy one way or the other, although the climbing is fun. Osathingy also had a delusional description but good moves. Finally the arete at the end - pictured in the book, captioned as something else, and not actually described. Ho hum.  

Eagle-eyed views might notice an ongoing theme of Northumberland bouldering. This is entirely correct. More waffle about that when I can be bothered to write it.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Horridly Torrid Torridon
Post by: comPiler on March 16, 2015, 06:00:16 pm
Horridly Torrid Torridon (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/03/horridly-torrid-torridon.html)
16 March 2015, 4:07 pm



I've done quite well bouldering this Winter Season - including doing more personally challenging problems in a few months than in any previous season (including pre-DVT grit seasons when world class bouldering was 10 mins drive away and I weighed 1.5 stones lighter), and all in a variety of styles as long as it's Northumberland sandstone ;).

How have I done so well? Thus: 5% skill, 15% tactics, 80% conditions. It's been amazingly dry over there and often amazingly cool. Notice all the videos where I am wearing a long sleeve t-shirt, bodywarmer, beanie and snood, and that's just for the 45 seconds I've escaped from the hoodie and downie to try the problem. So yeah, that's it.  

This was proven this last weekend with a well-tested reverse hypothesis (is that the right term?). PJ and I went up to Torridon in seemingly amazing weather - light breeze, bone dry, below zero at night and very cold and crisp in the shade. Unfortunately 95% of the main Torridon bouldering is NOT in the shade and was thus boiling to the point of being scarcely climbable. Climbing with a shirt off and still greasing off coarse slopers after the months of good conditions was a shock to the system and initally to the comprehension not to mention one's sense of honour and fair play. I did find a very neat problem in the shade and in a mini wind tunnel, after several goes working out the funky techy so-called crux sequence, I got shut down by the entirely morpho lank lunge finish and then tore a tip trying to work this. Sitting on a rock watching warfarin-infused blood dripping out of my finger and making pretty patterns on the stone below was not the most encouraging start to a trip.

In the end though, it was okay. I mummified my finger in tape and actually managed to climb on it, it turned out to be a more reliable finger than the non-shredded ones which felt thoroughly tenderised by the start of day 2. Despite all the potential it was one of the least productive bouldering outings this season and I've learnt my lesson about conditions once more. On the other hand it was considerably more productive for hanging out, recceing (the area is now fairly epic in the new definitive guide), vitamin D absorption, and eventually (after a fair bit of demoralising) doing some nice easy mileage. Muir's Masterpiece below being the highlight, one of the best fingery slabs around:

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gArSlI_Fnj8/VQbf0VVD5tI/AAAAAAAABa8/ESN9PmnrU9A/s1600/fiend_mm1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gArSlI_Fnj8/VQbf0VVD5tI/AAAAAAAABa8/ESN9PmnrU9A/s1600/fiend_mm1.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ox-FHzm9vUE/VQbfz1fTH8I/AAAAAAAABa4/7hnGMqbCFYs/s1600/fiend_mm2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ox-FHzm9vUE/VQbfz1fTH8I/AAAAAAAABa4/7hnGMqbCFYs/s1600/fiend_mm2.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: Horridly Torrid Torridon
Post by: richieb on March 16, 2015, 08:08:23 pm
Quote
entirely morpho lank lunge finish
Sounds like it might be one of mine? I fact it sounds like most of mine  :-[

I was also in the Glen for a bit yesterday. Went for an explore up the hill but didn't last long before I had to bail out - recovering from a minging cold.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 16, 2015, 08:20:05 pm
One of Dan Varian's actually. To be fair it's not him being a bit too tall, it's me being a bit too short.

I'm not sure we did many/enough of yours? Did Groovy, Terrace Arete, Super Morpho Lanky Groove (quite easy even for stumpies), Muir's Masterpiece (brilliant), and Lee's Wall on Day 2.

Good weather for curing a cold, hope it worked!  :sick: --->   :)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Ian T on March 17, 2015, 01:50:35 pm
Put a Sock in it?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 17, 2015, 02:16:54 pm
Yes  :ras:
Title: Best Bouldering Day Ever.
Post by: comPiler on March 17, 2015, 06:00:12 pm
Best Bouldering Day Ever. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/03/best-bouldering-day-ever.html)
17 March 2015, 2:07 pm



I wake up in the morning, reluctant to go out. Another 2 hour drive down to the County, cruising along the M8 and A720, then watching the invariable spectacle of terrible overtaking on the A1. Blind bends, junctions, and waiting on long straights until there's oncoming traffic are all de-rigeur. The best being someone overtaking a truck and a few cars right before a dual carriageway section, and being so reluctant to move back in to avoid the oncoming cars flashing and tooting them that I thought they were actually going to continue on the wrong side of the dual carriageway. Very soon I pass them on the dual as somehow they are doing below 70 despite all that excitement, and I have to toot salute in honour of such appalling driving. Well done.

Anyway today I'm not so sure about braving all that, because at the end of it I have to brave the top of Northern Soul. Not the sort of "obligatory" "essential" crowd-pleasing trade problem I'm usually aiming for, but I got suckered in on a previous session, and then on another previous session worked out how to do the crux, but was too tired to do it reliably to continue. Now syke outweighs social networking and the opportunity is to head down on my own rather than with the obligatory crowd. My two soggy anti-pads and Tris's proper pad aren't enough, my cunning plan is a thin Thermarest and a thick camping air-mattress. At best I'd be shuffling back hauling all that lot on my back, demoralised after wasting my time realising it wasn't enough. At worst I'd be crawling back dragging that lot behind me, crippled after breaking my ankle realising it wasn't enough.

But then again...

Fiend Hepburn 2015 (https://vimeo.com/121546900)

So it went a little bit like this:

A Northern Soul: Windy, very windy. I got quite annoyed with the doormat blowing away every time I stepped off it, but somehow the pads and mattress stayed in one place. 3 goes to get stood up in the break, and a practise jump to test that one place is THE place. The mattress seems to work but it might be a one shot weapon if I fall off the top and burst it. So I don't. I've watched a few videos showing the default methods for doing the top, I do something different and it works fine - gritstone engrams and immaculate friction haul me over the top. What was I worrying about again?

Titanic Arete: I've tried this twice previously too, but actually of my own volition and with the intention of doing it, until I found it was hard, brutal, and not nearly as nice as the beautiful feature it climbs. Having got the day's inspiration done in a quick hour, I might as well have a play on this too. 50m right and it's a lot less windy so I spend more time waiting for my skin to cool down than actually climbing. A few goes, a realisation to subtly switch hand positions on the starting jug from pulling to laybacking, and I'm up the next go. What now?

Iceberg: Certainly not this. It's a new problem, it looks lichenous, it gets V8 on UKC, the landing is an angled rock and a sapling, and I can't get off the ground. Until I do get off the ground, try to smear up the next move, slip off the only proper foothold on the problem and bash my thumb on the way down. Whilst waiting for the sulk to subside, I use the remaining 9 digits to look up UKC, apparently it could be V6 not V8, taking everything with a pinch of salt it's probably neither but it's possibly doable for me. I start putting the effort in and am rewarded by one of the best moves I've done this year: Rocking over onto a smear via a tiny sloping undercut gaston and falling into a half first joint mono gaston pocket. The tension twangs from that fingertip through my arms and shoulders like a divining rod, and it's brilliant, the slabby angle and friction making the improbable feasible and then the feasible successful. How did that happen?

The Prow: Finally a digestif, a line I spied on a few previous occasions and never got round to. Shorter in stature and easier in challenge, it hides it's quality away around left of the main Hepburn starting arena, but once on the problem it's undeniable. A natural sit start jug leads into a slap for a ledge and fun combination of hooks, underclings and slopers to hug the prow up to the top. Nothing particularly radical, just genuinely good prow bouldering. It's too dark for a video so I just do the problem and sit and listen to an owl hooting instead.

So that was the day. Very high quality climbing, high quality challenge, high quality solitary vibes. I'll take it.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on March 18, 2015, 11:32:29 am
Good Work Matt.
Title: Life as a boulderer.
Post by: comPiler on March 25, 2015, 12:00:23 am
Life as a boulderer. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/03/life-as-boulderer.html)
24 March 2015, 7:46 pm

God it's so fucking easy.

Don't worry about about actually finding trad climbers in Scotland to get out and do routes with.

Don't worry about iffy weather almost certainly ruining the routing prospects.

Don't worry about driving for hours and slogging through a bog to find out the time just isn't right.

Don't worry about whether the 3 star classic you're going for has any ascents this decade and how much moss you'll have to excavate off it.

Don't worry about seepage or lichen or having to get your mate to ab down and clean the route.

Don't worry about whether the grades and description of stuff at your limit is safely correct.

Don't worry about warming up just right and feeling fresh enough.

Don't worry about logistics of juggling your partner's climbing and still staying warmed-up and warm.

Don't worry about being mentally calm and in the right mindset.

Don't worry about getting pumped and scared.

Don't worry about being on the right line and avoiding off-route disasters.

Don't worry about whether it's right to get on that route right then for the onsight success.

Just worry about whether the skin will hold up and heal in time for the next trip (answer: it won't)

 

Is it really that simple? Surely there's some catch that makes bouldering not the most easy, comfy climbing option?

Apparently not. This last few months I have lived as a boulderer. Not an exploratory esoteric boulderer seeking bog and moss jumbles around Scotland, but a bouldering boulderer, just going out and getting it done by seeking out reliable accessible blocs and decent conditions. A novel idea but it might just work, and what do you know, it did. I went out, I climbed lots of stuff, it was physically hard but otherwise so easy. Mostly the County, a bit in the Lakes, the weather was very good in the former and sometimes good in the latter. Wandering around the grass Bowden in rock shoes and barely having to wipe them was a highlight - it makes a change from the 6 visits it took to get Mungisdale in the right nick for my desires.  

The usual logistical, climatic, social and mental battles get replaced by simple answers:

Where do we go? Wherever's dry. Usually the County. What if it's blowy as fuck man? Go somewhere sheltered. What if it's really cold? Do frictional problems. What if it's too warm? Get on steeper juggier stuff? What if I'm climbing crap? Put the effort into some projects for next time. What if I'm tired? Do an easy circuit it's all good training. What if my skin's fucked? Okay....that last one I don't really have an answer to...

Also, it's quite fun.

....I'm not sure that justifies it, though ;)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Hoseyb on March 25, 2015, 01:22:58 pm
Gabba gabba we except you, we except you, one of us!
 :punk:
Title: The Final Conflict.
Post by: comPiler on March 26, 2015, 12:00:17 pm
The Final Conflict. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/03/the-final-conflict.html)
26 March 2015, 11:57 am



Right, I've got to stop focusing on this bouldering malarkey. I went to do some trad the other day and got pumped putting my rack on. Horrible. I hate having no stamina, so I better start working on that. I could also do with letting my skin recover for a few days or 9 months or so. It's been fun but now it's warming up a bit (no doubt a pre-cursor to the monsoon season), the urge for trad exploration is increasing as the biting crispness is decreasing. There's still some blocs I'll throw in the mix for cooler / showery / partnerless days: the County 6C roof tryptich (Bechstein @ Back Bowden, Roof LH @ Kyloe, Neb Roof @ Shaftoe - all 3 in a day would be thematically exciting if hugely ambitious), Timmy Tiptoes @ Shaftoe if there's a freezing day, Cave Arete and Homo Horizontalis @ Edlingham if I'm feeling strong. Notice there's a theme here of steep problems that should benefit warm muscles more than freezing friction. Nameless Pimp Toy @ Stronlachar is also unfinished business and rematches with both St Bees and Cammachmore might be nice. BUT other than that it's on with the trad and training as a focus. Mileage at first then getting further afield and south of the wall once I'm back into it.

The final few trips out onto mico-pad-shuffling have been as fun and rewarding as previous visits:

Gillercombe bouldering. (https://vimeo.com/122634912)

Gillercombe is a magical place. Once you've slogged around the ridge from Honister (accurately upgraded to 40 mins in the Lakesbloc guide (http://www.lakesbloc.com/guides/gillercombe-guide.pdf)), the cwm is a haven of hidden isolation, with only a couple of dry stone walls hinting at the human world beyond the hillsides. The boulders are attractive and aesthetically scattered and climbing on them is varied and as good as any Lakes bouldering. Definitely worth a visit. Take a friend and a picnic, take a bunch of mates and stay in the Honister YHA, take just yourself and a meditative appreciation.

Fiend Carrock etc (https://vimeo.com/123184081)

Carrock Fell is obviously a firm favourite. It's a wonderful bouldering arena in the right conditions (and a skin-shredding nightmare of impossibilities in the wrong ones). There's always so much to go at, and even with 4 fairly successful visits this winter, I can see myself returning regularly. I had a lightning quick visits with 3 similarly graded problems to aim for, with very different outcomes: Canada Dry - felt spot on, fierce and fingery but went okay. Boardman's RH - got shown some different beta by a local and it was complete piss. High Flyer - spent an hour trying to make any sense of the start and couldn't get off the ground, complete nonsense.

I got a bonus in at Scratchmere Scar too. This was supposed to be a trad warm-up trip, I did a bit and got sweaty and scared. The bouldering sector was in the shade so with a bit of furtling around and a brave tied-in spotter I did The Aspirant, quite a hidden gem of good edges for the feet and bad smears for the hands.

That makes this season's tally of my harder problems look a bit like this:

2014/15:

Iceberg V6/7 - brilliant moves

A Northern Soul V6/7 - very aesthetic

Titanic Arete V6 - good line but burly

Cave Central LH V6 - varied and complex

Smooth Wall V6 - delightful grit

Old Spice V6 - good sloper action

Little Pixies V6 - good crimper action

Rheumatology V5 (not V6) - lovely rock, fun

Surprising Solution V5 (not V6) - steady fun

Duvel 8.5% V5 (not V6) - minor but okay

Smooth Operator V5  (not V6) - fun mantle

Dog Eat Dog V5  (not V6) - neat wall climbing

Zero Kelvin SS V5 (not V6) - very cool moves

Absinthe V5  (post-breakage) - good crimping

Arete LH Stand V5 - good line but burly

The Long Reach V5 - nice power climbing

Sitting Arete V5 - cool hooking fun

Apprentice Wall V5 - fantastic highball

Howff Roof V5 - steady fun

The Aspirant V5 - techy hidden gem

Canada Dry V5 - razors but satisfying

Cave RH V5  (not V4) - great techy roof

Left Wall V5  (not V4) - thin morpho but cool

Which is nice.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 26, 2015, 03:43:38 pm
nice list

could you put the grades on as well please
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: tomtom on March 26, 2015, 04:05:22 pm
nice list

could you put the grades on as well please

Judge Lagers has spoken.

If you hear the loud noise of a (soon to be) black motorbike pulling up outside, its Judge Nibile coming to enforce and it will be too late (unless you can beat him in a deadhangoff)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kelvin on March 26, 2015, 04:10:01 pm
Nibs can execute whatever judgement he wants - I'm not overly happy he's downgraded Zero Kelvin   :(
Title: Re: The Final Conflict.
Post by: r-man on March 26, 2015, 04:12:14 pm
nice list

could you put the grades on as well please

Good point, he's got the adjectival bit but seems to have missed off the tech grades...

Rheumatology VS (not V6) - lovely rock, fun

Surprising Solution VS (not V6) - steady fun

Duvel 8.5% VS (not V6) - minor but okay

Smooth Operator VS  (not V6) - fun mantle

Dog Eat Dog VS  (not V6) - neat wall climbing

Zero Kelvin SS VS (not V6) - very cool moves

Absinthe VS  (post-breakage) - good crimping

Arete LH Stand VS - good line but burly

The Long Reach VS - nice power climbing

Sitting Arete VS - cool hooking fun

Apprentice Wall VS - fantastic highball

Howff Roof VS - steady fun

The Aspirant VS - techy hidden gem

Canada Dry VS - razors but satisfying

Cave RH V5  (not V4) - great techy roof

Left Wall VS  (not V4) - thin morpho but cool

Which is nice.
Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 26, 2015, 08:21:00 pm
Bellends.

R-man, you missed one, with your so-called list skills I am disappointed  :no:

Kelvin, if it helps your namesake is a really rather good problem, it's got a great press move in it  :yes:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kelvin on March 26, 2015, 08:41:29 pm


Kelvin, if it helps your namesake is a really rather good problem, it's got a great press move in it  :yes:

ukc has it at 7B+... you've suddenly made it quite feasible one day  :thumbsup:

There's this, some grotty HS up on Kinder and a couple of boulder problems in a quarry near Ramsbottom called Mann Up and Mann Down - both V4. It'd be kind of nice to tick them all one day.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 27, 2015, 09:21:25 am
A noble goal.

It's this one btw: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=116301 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=116301)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kelvin on March 27, 2015, 10:19:58 am
Cheers fiend - there's another by the same name then in Scotland.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 27, 2015, 10:37:17 am
Don't bother going to Scotland, it takes ages to get anywhere, you have to slog up hills and wade through bogs, and you'll almost certainly get midged to death...

....exactly like Gillercombe actually  :)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 27, 2015, 10:46:46 am
you'll almost certainly get midged to death...

is that what the "V" thing refers to?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on March 27, 2015, 10:49:24 am
Yes - Vermin.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: tomtom on March 27, 2015, 10:58:10 am
I think this V grade thing is rubbish. If you want to refer to how midgy an area is, you simply need a number of rockfax style icons of mosquito's in action...

(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 27, 2015, 11:18:07 am
Good idea, I think this should cover it:

(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=13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Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on March 27, 2015, 11:39:09 am
I think this V grade thing is rubbish. If you want to refer to how midgy an area is, you simply need a number of rockfax style icons of mosquito's in action...

(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)(http://www.nola.gov/nola/media/Icons/mosquito.png?width=132&height=102&ext=.png)

See Kevin Howett's old Rock Climbing in Scotland Guide. It has this exactly.

 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rock-Climbing-Scotland-Kevin-Howett/dp/0711224099 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rock-Climbing-Scotland-Kevin-Howett/dp/0711224099)
Title: Boiling Bollox and Sterile Strengths.
Post by: comPiler on April 09, 2015, 01:00:07 pm
Boiling Bollox and Sterile Strengths. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/04/boiling-bollox-and-sterile-strengths.html)
9 April 2015, 11:40 am



I went out roped climbing. It was all a bit difficult.

Easter 2013: After a winter of exploratory bouldering, I started my best trad year with my best Easter, perfect North West cragging in perfect weather, and I was climbing very well.

Easter 2014: After one trip to Pedriza and two months recovering from a tweaked wrist, I started a very good trad year with a very good Easter, exploring around the Duddon Valley, and I was climbing pretty well despite two months of weakness.

Easter 2015: After a winter of continuous bouldering, a reasonable amount of general conditioning, and a few reassuring stamina sessions at the wall, I start.....I don't know but it better be a damn sight better than a pretty mediocre Easter struggling to get back into roped climbing.

I had two days climbing at Giggleswick - not the most inspiring choice but it did offer a good amount of mileage and a mixture of trad and sport (the latter being my potential partner's preference). I did a bit of both although not quite enough of the former and a bit too much failing on the latter. Things perked up on a single day at Buckbarrow, again not a major crag but worth a visit for reassuringly traditional Lakes climbing in a nice and fairly accessible setting, where I managed a few perkier routes and got some psyche back.

On reflection it seems although I am physically not too weak, my general form is based on the sterile strengths of the gym, wall, and highly controlled bouldering with optimum resting, preparation, conditions etc. Thus I am currently emotionally weak at coping with all the usual adversities of trad climbing: Sore feet, sweaty fingers, obscure route-finding, and dodgy grades. Cue being hot and bothered and generally stroppy at it all - first tantrum of the year is not the milestone I was aiming for.

Still it gives me stuff to work on: Get my feet used to regular tight shoes, milk rests to cool down as well as de-pump, choose my conditions well, get better at route-reading, and generally get a bit more focused.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: 2XBW4LYFE
Post by: comPiler on April 09, 2015, 01:00:07 pm
2XBW4LYFE (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/04/2xbw4lyfe.html)
9 April 2015, 12:33 pm



Going back to sterile strengths, it doesn't get much more sterile than focusing on a singular exercise in the bland environment of the gym. Then again when you've been bouldering the previous day, 2 tips are bleeding and the other 6 are progressing well towards the same state, and you're as disillusioned as usual by CV training, and you still want to push your muscles, pushing large lumps of metal around does have a certain appeal. It is something I actually I enjoy down the gym, which probably correlates to the time spent doing it (very little), and the relevance to my fitness issues (very little). It's also quite good fun pushing my body to it's strength/power limits (as opposed to endurance ones), something which happens in very few activities other than bouldering training and weight lifting?

So within 5 heavy weights sessions (my first since winter 2012/13), I managed my goal for the year, the succinct, UKBouldering-inspired 2XBW deadlift. Actually it was 2.06 times body weight, as after weighing myself at 77.5kg, I did 155kg and then 160kg twice (a much more elegant number!). Maybe small numbers for other people but quite a big deal for me, especially since the BW is still far too high and no amount of gym CV sessions, climbing days, micro-runs and diet-watching seems to get it down. It's quite a nice benchmark as it makes it a sort of body-weight exercise and a more personalised goal, a bit like BW benchpresses (on 75, I will do 77.5 soon, I'm not sure about 80), or numbers of pull-ups or something like the splits. On the subject of pull-ups, I felt a bit guilty achieving something so non-climbing-related, so I also did 3 x 2 sets of pull-ups with 30kg added, which makes 107.5kg pullups, I will aim for a neater number there too and I'm sure that can't hurt hauling my weight up a rock face ;).

As for the 2XBW itself, I did it with wrist straps (recommended here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19645.msg481224.html#msg481224), confirmed by gym instructor, and any arguments take it up with this guy (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w95Yi9HcQ7s) - although I think I will try to do more without straps as it will provide a challenge without having to up the weight) but without really heavy gabber or drum and bass, which must average out as a handicap. I've been carefully building up in the last few sessions, warming up with some brisk rowing and then getting into a tapering session. I'd got to 140 previously, 140 this time felt easy with straps, as did 150. Then I had to get serious.... Doing 155 and 160 (both times) was interesting, I rested a few minutes between each time, and got just the same butterflies in my stomach as before attempting an at-my-limit boulder problem, the anticipation of having to try very hard and maybe not succeeding. Getting the 155 and 160 off the ground was the hardest physical thing I've ever done as it's so absolute, either the weight moves or it doesn't. Even something as pure as hanging Beastmaker 45°s (also at my limit) has more variance, sometimes I can do it 0.25 seconds, sometimes 1 second (yup, *that* much).

Still I should probably be focusing a bit more on the Beastmaker from now on. And by Beastmaker I mean Ratho of course. In between weights sessions I had a few reassuring stamina sessions there recently - normal leading, doubled up easier leading, and quadruple auto-belay routes (the latter being by far the pumpiest). Despite weak beginnings the punterdom seems to be decreasing as the pump is increasing so maybe there is hope for me yet.  



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: fatneck on April 10, 2015, 08:25:15 am
Is it too soon to re-post this...?

(https://41.media.tumblr.com/157e3321d93346a6694e3d73e8d06aec/tumblr_ne0eu2Nw6a1sl88ruo1_500.jpg)

Effort beast!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 10, 2015, 03:24:17 pm
It's always time to post that  ;D
Title: Focus.
Post by: comPiler on April 10, 2015, 07:00:07 pm
Focus. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/04/focus.html)
10 April 2015, 4:34 pm



I had a wee jaunt to Aberdeen recently, to sample the very good fish and chips from the Newmachar chippy. Oh, and to climb at Vat O'Burn / Burn O'Vat / Vat Burn / whatever it is, and also at Finedon Ness. So now I can add slightly crumbly rock and inevitably unpredictable sea-smeg to the trad hazards I've forgotten how to cope with. Despite that I did a few nice routes, mostly easy ones I climbed smoothly, and a tricky one I climbed with inspiration, so that's good. Basically that's enough warming up and it's time to stop farting around and actually try some proper climbing.

Having said that I wasn't sure where to begin this routes season, so it's taken some proper revising to get some inspiration together. After some deliberation, it's all about Wales and the South West, with hints of Lakes, Yorkshire, and the few remaining Scottish plans I haven't finished off:

Wales:

Rhoscolyn

Pen Trwyn / Marine Drive

Cwm Glas Bach

Clogwyn Gafr

Clogwyn Y Grochan

Scimitar Ridge

Cloggy by train

Clogwyn Y Eryr

Craig Y Clipiau

Carreg Hylldrem

A bit o' slate

Arennig Fawr

Cwn Nantcol

Various other Rhinnogs crags

Bird Rock

Nesscliff

South West:

Pentire

Kellan Head

Brownspear Point

Bosigran

Land's End

Carn Barra

Sennen

St Loy

Carn Gowla

Avon Gorge

Sanctuary Wall

Lakes:

Dow Crag

Blind Tarn Crag

A bit o' slate

Raven Crag Threshwaite

Raven Crag Thirlmere

Castle Rock

Chapel Head Scar

Yorkshire:

Malham

Giggleswick

Blue Scar

Rylstone

Earl Crag

Scotland:

Creag Dubh Barrier Wall

Reiff Leaning Block

Seanna Mheallan

Stac Pollaidh

Aberdeen sea-cliffs

I think that will do for now?? Looking at the immediate forecast Ratho will be the main aim tho - can never have enough stamina...

As always I will be keen to meet up with people who are keen for these sort of places!



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: duncan on April 10, 2015, 08:06:45 pm
Try to make your day in Avon on one of the Sundays when The Portway is closed. You'll have to park up on Clifton down but it is an altogether much pleasanter atmosphere.

31 May - (Bristol 10k)
14 June - (Bristol Triathlon)
21 June - (Bristol's Bike Ride)
13 September - (Bristol Half Marathon)
25 October - (Bath Bristol Marathon)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 10, 2015, 08:46:19 pm
I dunno I think I might prefer the grim traffic noise to cyclists or runners  :P
Title: Radio Silence.
Post by: comPiler on April 27, 2015, 07:00:19 pm
Radio Silence. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/04/radio-silence.html)
27 April 2015, 6:59 pm



Not that it ever is actually silent on my radio. Whether it's one of the hundreds of DnB compilation CDs I've made, or that neat Proxima dubstep album, or digging up an old Carcass album, or getting psyched for Twisted's Darkside rave next weekend with some  Hardshock Festival gabber mixes or being thoroughly shocked when the Drum And Bass Confrontation CD I picked up for a joke in the Abington services turns out to be not a risible cheese-fest of Subfocus and Hospital Records drum'n'pop but actually a heavyweight compilation of early 2000 tech-jungle....there's always some noise on there. Sometimes enough to drown out the voices in my head, sometimes not.

Actually the quietitude of my blog is not because I don't have stuff to write about, it's because that stuff is so moany and boring it even bores me. And if I don't want to read my fucking drivel then I probably shouldn't inflict it on others (I can think of a few bloggers who should consider this too ;)). In summary, I went trad climbing, I sucked, I got a bit depressed, I frittered away some of the good weather because I was tired of driving a lot and being scared of routes, I got a bit more motivated just before the weather crapped out, and now I'm doing some focused training to depunterify.

Instead of the moaning, here's some routes I liked doing and some routes I disliked not doing recently:

Liked:

The Iron Chicken E3 5c ** Buckbarrow - warmed up with sore toes and hot rock on slabbier routes. This was steeper and juggier so less painful on the feet. Went really smoothly with some great "stepping out of an airplane door" moves out left above a bulge.

Question Mark E3 6a *** Vat O' Burn - A newish route I think?  PJ told me it was fine and for once the overly strong sandbagging shark was right, it was fine. Boulder problem start was good fun, bolder finish was even more fun. Just a really good route.

Apollo E2 5c ** Curbar - Apparently this is a bit of a testpiece? I must admit there was a tiny bit of matching the handjams where I had to focus and have faith, but it went really fine. Okay I do like jamming and the 3 move crux between rests played to my recent bouldering experience, but still it was nice to do something smoothly.

The Toy + Smoke Ont'Water E2 6a ** Curbar - Not either route per se, but just the experience of doing some Curbar horrors. Both retro-flashes from 10-15 year prior failures, the sole uselessly obvious memory of "those thin cracks were fucking horrible" giving me a clean slate to try again. Thin, rounded, bad fingerjams and worse footholds, hard to place gear and harder to do the cruxes afterwards, a sort of ridiculous but rewarding experience. Neither of them quite as hard as, say, Gouther's Castration Crack E3 6a **, but neither far off.

Violation E3 6a / F6c *** Tilberthwaite - Tight  groove placing gear off a bicep wedge into footless cranking to a  squatting mono rest into cutting loose on a jug and a jam to rock onto a  slab into a blind toe-hook onto the jug and double fin pinching to rock  back into balance - sounds like typical slate yes? Pretty bonkers route  for it's size and really funky stuff.

Various E2 5c routes Attermire - Again not a route, not a vast amount of unbridled pleasure, but a good trad training experience of local sandbags and lactic acid soreness. Comer was quite pumpy, the grade easier Brutus was both much pumpier and had a much harder crux, and Neon Crack was even more OTT, a Curbar horror with worse gear and a sketchier finish. Battling through that lot has to be good for something, right? Nice sunset too:

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RET3bkszSTU/VT54LAXxbtI/AAAAAAAABbY/XvxwpXFqo20/s1600/attermiresky2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RET3bkszSTU/VT54LAXxbtI/AAAAAAAABbY/XvxwpXFqo20/s1600/attermiresky2.jpg)

 Disliked:

Censor E3 5c *** Stanage - fiddled loads of bomber gear in the start, got well psyched, did one move up and foot slipped. Cue massive gear-throwing tantrum and 2 weeks of demoralisation.

Dextrous Hare E3 5c * Millstone - tried to warm-up going part way and downclimbing, then got back on it again. Flash-pump and numb fingers trying to get any suitable gear in before easy moves into easy corner. Lowered off with hands over head in case cams pinged out. Guidebook bullshit about RPs is bullshit, it's small cams and offsets. Crux of both grades placing gear. Fuck off.

Jealous Pensioner E4 5c * Millstone - climbed lower wall to ledge, using up crucial shothole hex in the process. Guidebook bullshit about gear at foot level because it doesn't mention it's shothole gear and nothing else so you can't use up shothole gear on the shothole-covered wall. Spent ages trying to hammer an over-large hex in, didn't like it. Moves were green, massively reachy and in the full sun. Escaped off.

Great West Road E2 5b *** - got 5m up, feet started skidding, no motivation, downclimbed and decided to give up climbing. For at least 2 hours.

Unreachable Star E3 6a * Curbar - committed to gear slot, reached up to bad smear sloper handhold, no way I could hold it let alone pull on it in +ve 'C temperatures, slumped off. Probably should have gone for the fall at least.

The Beer Hunter E3 6a * Curbar - backed off once before because it was far too windy. Backed off this time because it was not windy enough. Did all the usual faff with gear but although there was a fresh breeze on the rest ledge, as soon as I moved onto the sidewall it felt too greasy to trust the holds. Next time...

Woodland Ecology E4 5c ** Hawkcliffe - got to lower solo crux, seemed too dynamic, a bit warm, and target ramp was a bit green. Reversed a bit and jumped off safely. Landing very soft, need to go back with more time, a mate to clean it off, and a better plan of where to be spotted in case of a fall. Still thank fuck at least I didn't headpoint it like some massive UKC gaylords.

Jitterbug E3 6a ** Tilberthwaite - Looked hard, committed into flake crack, slammed in bomber wire, cranked up on a fingertip flake facing the wrong way and slate smears, and fell off inches from the jug. Kinda annoying as I did go for it and was so close.

And now:

5 x 5s on GCC auto-belays.

4 x 4s on GCC routes.

1 x 1s at Ratho.

Loads of falling practise everywhere.

Pissing around on local sport stuff to train my toes and tenacity, when it stops sleeting anyway.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Wrong place, wrong time
Post by: comPiler on May 09, 2015, 07:00:25 pm
Wrong place, wrong time (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/05/wrong-place-wrong-time.html)
9 May 2015, 7:00 pm



So far this is definitely becoming my worst trad season climbing since, well, 2011. Except I was climbing okay then, it was just the weather being almost continuously appalling between the start of May and November. Okay, so worst trad season since 2009. Except I'd only just recovered from an elbow injury then. Okay, 2008. Except that's when I actually had the elbow injury. So the worst for many years then. I've done a lot of good climbs in those intervening years, but not in this one yet. I've perfectly timed a blend of apathy, tiredness, fear and ill-confidence when the weather was good, and a reasonable amount of motivation and determination when it's been bad. I took advantage of the latter by training stamina quite well, now I am bored of that. Training is fun but it's training for something and without that something it loses it's appeal rapidly.

Throw in terrible motivation, worse organisation, utter disinterest in the little remaining local climbing, bad habits and persistent laziness, and stir it in to a vicious circle of low energy, and that's where I am now. Not the best place for a dedicated climber.

There is an inherent sense of wrongness about this for me, I haven't been abroad for over a year, I haven't explored much this year, I haven't got to grips with pushing myself - and I genuinely do miss the experience of being challenged and enjoying the journey of working it all out, and I haven't got any inspiring plans other than a weather-and-driving-scuppered "Go to Wales loads". It all feels like the wrong place at the wrong time. Scotland is great but I miss the vast amount of options available down South, both local and weekendable (God, and I used to think I'd "climbed out" the gritstone when I was down there, I should have been more grateful for 4 guidebooks of local stuff rather than half of one.) and I miss the wider-ranging climbing community and options for climbing partners. I was chatting to someone who is fully immersed in the mid-grade trad scene down there about his success getting a last minute partner....

"Easy when the weather's so good!"
More like:

"Easy when the weather's so good and you live somewhere within on a few hours drive of loads of climbing areas and on the doorstep to many more and have built up a large circle of enthusiastic climbing partners".
Not to dismiss my good climbing friends up here, but they are quite literally few and far between, and when I sometimes get in a rut and don't communicate and organise well, I rapidly run out of options.

So anyway I am revising the North Wales Rock and Meirionydd and new Langdale guides time after time and even some of the Yorkshire Grit ones too, and not getting anything actually done - the vast amounts of positive inspiration bubbling and seething in the discordant brew that is my mental state, hopefully it will dissolve like a good strong espresso hit and overwhelm the milky blandness of apathy and negativity.

In the meantime, I have quite enjoyed going to Ratho, and I've worked out another cunning plan of trying to be less of a massive gaylord outside - warming up on the occasional local sport route redpointing session (my minimal interest in local climbing) by falling on every single bolt as part of the dogging up. A small idea but anything might help.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Half-time Score.
Post by: comPiler on May 24, 2015, 07:00:08 pm
Half-time Score. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/05/half-time-score.html)
24 May 2015, 3:07 pm



Climbing failures : 7 - 1 : Fiend

From my New Year's resolution list:

Have many more trips abroad. - complete fail.

None at all, none planned, feel pretty shit about this. Most of my climbing partners ask me if I've got any trips planned, I mumble a bit about "dunno" "not been organised" and feel like a dick.

Climb South of the border. - partial success.

I've done a bit, in fact most of my trips away, but still not really been to the places I really want to go, nor done the sort of climbing I really want to do. Call it a draw.

Keep training throughout the year - wall, gym, active rest. - partial success.

I've done some of this, and had my best roped successes at Ratho *CRINGE*, but also haven't kept up enough with fitness training nor therapy for my impinged shoulder, another draw.

Do more stretching. - complete fail.

None at all. Really need to do it more than ever, and really suck at motivating myself to do.

Try falling practise on gear outdoors. - complete fail.

None at all. Done some indoors but still feel scared and non-committal outdoors and need to cure that.

Get going earlier in the morning. - complete fail.

Getting even worse at this. Sleeping badly and sluggish. Missed out on entire days due to this let alone just a few hours of extra climbing.

Start more trips in the evening to be ready the next day. - complete fail.

Nope. Rubbish at this too.

Make clearer and firmer plans esp. with disorganised partners. - fail.

Nope. Missed enough days out and really feeling the minimalness of my climbing scene.

You could add "Climb well and really enjoy my climb as I usually do" to that list and get a "complete fail" too, although that's intrinsically linked to most of the above, especially the venues, exploration, and organisation.

So what have I done??

Bouldered overall better than ever over winter - success.

Deadlifting 2XBW personal best - success.

Run 20 mins / 2 miles continually with fuck all venous return - success.

Flashed Ratho F7a+ thrice in a week - success.

Taken out of context, those are pretty enjoyable and quite satisfying things. Taken in the context of myself and my desires they are somewhat overwhelmed by what I haven't done and what I'm not doing...

¿Still not sure of a way out of this rut?



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Hey, are you....
Post by: comPiler on June 13, 2015, 01:00:07 pm
Hey, are you.... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/06/hey-are-you.html)
13 June 2015, 12:07 pm



....the guy who writes that Fiend blog??

Errrr....depends who I've offended this time, but, errr, maybe?

This is the second time I've been accosted at Ratho and recognised like that, AND been told that they quite enjoy reading my blog, which as before comes as a pleasant surprise. I know a few friends read it (which I understand, I'd read their shit if any of them bothered to write it) and apparently a few strangers do too. One of these days I'll find out the other half-dozen readers, hunt them down, and persuade them to stop.

In the meantime I had to apologise because my writing and updating has reflected my climbing - mundane and often shite. I'm trying to rectify that in my climbing so why not here too. The Ratho dude said he liked reading about crags so here are some crags:

Brown Band Crag, Aberdeen

One of many new developments on the coast from the evergreen Rankers who has his overly-strong fingers in the various pies that form the cragging smorgasbord - developing hardcore sport at The Fin whilst putting up VDiff sandbags here and steep power bouldering at the nearby Brown Hole crag (well it was a lot more of a brown hole when the Costa express kicked in and I had to rush off behind the rocks hur hur). Anyway BBC is very typical south coast schist shizzle, steep, breaky, good fun if you slam in the cams and keep yarding, a miserable pumpy nightmare if you stop and think for a second. I mostly got it right apart from sliding off Devo Max with my fingers a mere inch from the crucial break, pretty gutting as I really put some effort in and it would have been an essential confidence boost.

Findon Ness, Aberdeen

Findon Ness is not a new development, but the information has been newly revised in a useful topo on Neil Morrison's flickr. As always a clear topo provides fresh inspiration as much as fresh information and this was no exception. I've ended up having 4 visits there this spring - a couple greasy, a couple immaculately fresh - and I've pretty much climbed it out and enjoyed everything I've done. An very worthwhile crag for the E2-ish bumbly.

Robbie Gow's Prison, Aberdeen

As part of a semi-abortive, semi-mileage trip which included stropping at Meackie Point because the tide was coming in, being too weak to commit to routes at Harper's Wall, and running away from The Outpost, I did end up doing a couple of decent routes here. Both short, steep sandbags, but rather good with a lot of intense climbing packed in. Definitely worth combining with the more classic Hidden Treasure wall.

White Crag, Langdale

We went to Black Crag the day before but obviously you lot know what that's like and if you don't you might as well give up climbing as it is some of the most delightful short cragging on the best rock in Lakes. As part of an accessible Lakes crag easy mileage trip it would have been rude not to go to White Crag too and complete the Yin and Yang of punterdom, especially given how well these minor crags are shown and described in the impeccable new Langdale guide. Anyway I did a few warm-ups, got inspired by this steep E3 that followed a footless rail across a steep wall beneath a crucial peg to a slopey lip encounter. I got onto the rail, stretched up to clip the peg, as soon as the karabiner just touched it the peg fell out and bounced down onto my hoodie. I reversed and lowered onto a cam, we sacked it off and went home via Bramcrag Wall at the ludicrously popular Bramcrag Quarry (add bolts to any olde choss and verily the hordes will come) which I'd been putting off for a while and it turns out it's quite easy but does have some great climbing. The peg is now a doorstop in the lounge.

Moss Crag, Buttermere

Now this was a wee treasure. Umming and ahhhing over where to go in the Lakes, having got punished by the sub-heatwave-but-still-relentless sun at Raven Crag the previous day, I spotted this wee shady, seemingly accessible buttress in the guide, and managed to persuade the beastette I was with that a day of (guess fucking what??) easy mileage would be worthwhile. And indeed it was, as much for the situation as anything. The seeming accessibleness turned out to be a 45° slog that was short enough to be okay and steep enough to be decent leg training, and perched us scenically above Buttermere, the weeness was adequately compensated for by nice rock and nice lines, and the shadiness was an absolute delight of lounging in the sun and climbing in perfect conditions. The easy mileage was perhaps a bit too easy for either of us but it was just nice to be there (God I am getting soft....).

Baildon Bank, Yorkshire

I don't know how many people remember the picture of the sheer blank-looking corner of Anne Of Cleaves in the old Yorkshire Grit guide? I don't remember that clearly - possibly because I've tried to block all memories of the dire old YG guides out of my mind with their prehistoric design, insistence that Almscliff deserved to be deified, and reluctance to be dragged screaming and kicking into the 21st century of guidebooks - but I do remember it looked cool, even at a time that I doubt I would ever climb it. Fast forward a couple of decades and normally it would be a formality, this dire trad season it would be a minor challenge, and either way it would be inspiring. A sunny breezy made the Lower Quarry worth exploring and indeed it continues the quality which Baildon is renowned for, despite being grossly underused. AoC lived up to it's appearance, excellent climbing with a definitive sting-in-the-tail finish. I took faffing to a whole new level before committing to it, but it was good in the end.

I don't know how many people have seen the picture of a bold slabby-looking arete of Hergest Ridge in the new Yorkshire Grit guide? I do remember clearly - possibly because the fantastic new YG guides have firmly etched many inspirations and appealing photos in my mind. After a bit of a warm-up it seemed like a valid option and I was getting on well with the off-vertical crimpy quarried grit. Apparently I have some ability left because despite a "moment" pulling on sweaty micro-crimp sidepulls, I did the whole damn route in less time than it took me dicking around beneath the AoC finish. A small but real victory.

Hebden Gill, Yorkshire  

Another underrated gem which I recced in Autumn and realised it's steep positive climbing wouldn't suit the cold grit winter but could be great on the right sort of spring day. This wasn't the right sort of spring day, but it was almost close enough....almost. A warm-up on Crevasse Wall confirmed my suspicions that the whole wall was understarred and indeed as good as it looked, and then a fight on Performance Management confirmed that it was a bit too sweaty even for this sort of grit. I clearly needed to manage my performance a bit better as I flapped around on the crux until I skidded off a small bit of crusty rock a mere move from the crucial foothold, pretty gutting as I really put some  effort in and it would have been an essential confidence boost.

Photos (Findon & Hebden):

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZlIp9KH8Dcw/VXwPJggtFvI/AAAAAAAABb4/ou5ypqVjX_U/s400/fiend_gd1a.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZlIp9KH8Dcw/VXwPJggtFvI/AAAAAAAABb4/ou5ypqVjX_U/s1600/fiend_gd1a.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3VLt-_2pI9E/VXwPJLwN2mI/AAAAAAAABbw/nA_x1Wvq_b8/s400/fiend_gd2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3VLt-_2pI9E/VXwPJLwN2mI/AAAAAAAABbw/nA_x1Wvq_b8/s1600/fiend_gd2.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2B84LatHOm8/VXwPOSuDaZI/AAAAAAAABcA/TYyUe0dZ0rs/s400/fiend_crev1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2B84LatHOm8/VXwPOSuDaZI/AAAAAAAABcA/TYyUe0dZ0rs/s1600/fiend_crev1.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YeOaK3sDAkg/VXwPOwKxytI/AAAAAAAABcE/0YbtkzGue2c/s400/fiend_crev2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YeOaK3sDAkg/VXwPOwKxytI/AAAAAAAABcE/0YbtkzGue2c/s1600/fiend_crev2.jpg)

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Climber's assessment report:
Post by: comPiler on June 25, 2015, 01:00:19 pm
Climber's assessment report: (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/06/climbers-assessment-report.html)
25 June 2015, 11:04 am

D--

Must try harder. A lot harder.

As per the previous update, I've been out a bit, and I've climbed a bit. I can unhappily say that I am getting pretty good at doing E2s competently.

E2 is not a grade, it is an admission of failure. E2 is not climbing, it's just bad beta the crag approach walk. E2s are not routes, they are at best a mundane part of the warm-up procedure, as forgettable as swinging your arms around or traversing the crag base.

I suppose there is something to be said for smooth, fluid competency. That something being that is gets a bit boring after a while. I still miss the spark of trying hard, hence the teacher's report above. Except I'm my own teacher and pupil, I'm giving the lessons but am I learning my lesson? Not so effectively when I'm in the wrong classroom and the most educational subject matter is many hours away. I've got some plans to rectify that, heading South for a bit, then hopefully heading West for a bit. Maybe both at once.

P.S. One thing I have realised, due to recently and still annoying near misses, is that I am, of course, weak. No, genuinely this time. I'd fooled myself that because I'd bouldered quite well over winter, including on some burly stuff, that I was bouldering strong. Actually, I'd spent so much time bouldering that I didn't have the skin to do any bouldering training, therefore I now realise I was bouldering well, but bouldering weak. Technique is no substitute for power and all that....



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 25, 2015, 02:22:54 pm
man
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 25, 2015, 02:23:12 pm
up
Title: Cornwall.
Post by: comPiler on July 13, 2015, 01:00:17 pm
Cornwall. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/07/cornwall.html)
13 July 2015, 11:28 am



It's an absolute delight to revisit old haunts with a new perspective, especially an area such as Cornwall with it's delightfully all-pervasive sea-cliff atmosphere. This distant peninsula is one of the best areas to immerse oneself in the coastline and feel the power of the sea and the contrast of the rocks, and I've enjoyed visiting and climbing there regularly but sporadically over the last two decades. The 9 (or 11 with the bollox traffic between Stoke and Somerset) hour drive is a slog, but a return visit was very welcome, despite various false starts with tides, approaches, failed recces and fractured radiators. In the end I got some pleasant climbing done, with a particular emphasis on avoiding Rockfax honeypots (ensuring that when I head back down with anyone keen for the usual Sennen / Bosi bollox, I still have plenty to do there). Nothing particularly progressive, but I felt I was climbing slightly better on the granite and killas than before, and certainly with more inspiration than recent months.

Cornwall Ticklist:

Brownspear Point:


Parallel Flow E1 5b * - a bit awkward and flakey.

Tetrapod E3 6a ** - hard and sketchy, good though.

Madam Sixtoes E2 5c * - quite hard but cool climbing.



The Flame:


Crazy from the Heat E1 5b ** - well-named, boiling in the evening sun, good value, committing.

The Wick E1 5b * - done after backing off the E3 (scary E4), not bad.

Local Hero E2 5c * - good stuff, nicely balanced.

Pedn Kei West:

Linda's Choice E2 5b ** (***) - excellent, rambly line but great adventure, climbing, and positions.

Flying Finish E3 5c * (E3 6a **) - hard, shredded my ribs on the crux, rewarding tho.

Carn Vellan:

The Blimp E2 5b * (**)  - good value, quite continuous and a great finish.

Silver Shadow E3 5c ** (***) - really good, fine line and positions, boiling in the sun so hard crux.

Hot Rubber E4 5c ** (E3 5c *) - easy, nice, not as continuous as other routes here.

Aire Point:

Biggles Flies Undone Direct E2 5b * (E1 5a*) - quite nice, main flake was the best bit

Dick Dastardly E2 5b (E2 5c *) - pretty stiff, hard roof, interesting arete above.

Wiki Wiki Wheels E3 6a (E3 6a **) - steady but really nice, well balanced and cool rock features.

Levan's Wall:

Bermuda Wall E3 5c *** - great line, pokey start and steady after, good voyage

Devil's Meridian E2 5c ** (***) - better climbing than above, strong line and good crack climbing.

Midnight Express E1 5b ** (E1 5c **) - quite hard, good value.



Cribba Head:


Kerynack E1 5b (E1 5b *) - thin start, nice above, worthwhile.

Boysen's Crack E2 5c (E1 5b *) - steep, steady, good fun.

Boysen's Groove E2 5c ** (E3 6a **) - desperate, Curbar 5c at least, satisfying battle.

St Loy:

Finesse E4 5c ** - absolutely delight, two good pitches, bold but felt easy, could have done more.

Monochrome Men E1 5b ** - very good, continuous quality.

Scarlet Women Direct  E2 5c * (E2 5c **) - ditto!



The Lizard:


Seagulls Draw The Line E1 5c (E2 5c *) - fierce committing start, nice finish.

Dogs Befriend The Inventor of The Sausage Lottery E3 5c ** (E3 6a ***) - excellent, as good as short routes get, fine line and a fine battle.

Aboriginal Sin E3 5c ** (E2 5b **) - easy but great fun on good holds.

Bench Tor:

Hostile Witness E2 5c *** - proper classic, really cool.

Hotshot E3 6a * (E2 5c *) - steady, neat, worthwhile.

Helman Tor:

Hell's Tooth E1 5b (E1 5c*) - good value with plenty of interest.





Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Cornwall Photos.
Post by: comPiler on July 14, 2015, 07:00:19 pm
Cornwall Photos. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/07/cornwall-photos.html)
14 July 2015, 1:12 pm



Cue 3 hours of fighting with blogger as it relentlessly tries to fuck up the order, spacing, text and every other damn thing it can with photo uploads....

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SzNpeqcrjVc/VaT9k7zPnnI/AAAAAAAABeo/XkLEq7yiA48/s400/aire2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SzNpeqcrjVc/VaT9k7zPnnI/AAAAAAAABeo/XkLEq7yiA48/s1600/aire2.jpg) Wiki Wiki Wheels @ Aire Point, after trying Spitfire for a while and realising it was more like E3 6b and utterly horrible. This was a much nicer route with some cool moves into and out of this crack and onto funky jug veins. Great location for a crag although a bit crystally.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5tEoPTM7Fgo/VaT0Y7gPx5I/AAAAAAAABck/Zpf96Dg85c8/s400/bat.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5tEoPTM7Fgo/VaT0Y7gPx5I/AAAAAAAABck/Zpf96Dg85c8/s1600/bat.jpg) Crucial Rock 5 (actually a Wallnut 5, what sort of neanderthal do you think I am?) on Finesse @ St Loy. Had to carefully move this wee bugger to get the wire in, and again on abbing down to get it out - got some really dirty looks each time. Finesse was one of the best experiences of the trip, it all went super-smoothly despite a muggy day, and despite a "do I really want to do this?" moment on the psychological crux (Pedriza 5+ move with the only gear in the last 10m being the infamous "wire loop over a crystal"), I felt the sort of wonderful confidence I've missed this year.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CDdR8tqEw7U/VaT0ZLiHQaI/AAAAAAAABcs/p357kMpg-2Q/s400/dogsa1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CDdR8tqEw7U/VaT0ZLiHQaI/AAAAAAAABcs/p357kMpg-2Q/s1600/dogsa1.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NOxIyKjY9FY/VaT0Z4VP0TI/AAAAAAAABc0/l7gNNIYPts0/s400/dogsa2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NOxIyKjY9FY/VaT0Z4VP0TI/AAAAAAAABc0/l7gNNIYPts0/s1600/dogsa2.jpg)  Dogs Befriend The Inventor Of The Sausage Lottery @ The Lizard. Any  guesses why I wanted to do this route?? I like dogs and I like sausages  (and obviously I like sausage dogs). It turns out the route is even  better than the name, being particularly exciting and dramatic for it's  size - a continuous battle of insecure jams, laybacks and small feet. Really nice to do such a sparkling hidden gem.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v8d0irCAxng/VaT0acCE5CI/AAAAAAAABc8/9DPzUklu6r4/s400/hostile1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v8d0irCAxng/VaT0acCE5CI/AAAAAAAABc8/9DPzUklu6r4/s1600/hostile1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f8Tdy4aQfdY/VaT0amEzomI/AAAAAAAABdE/UKOzY3fk2yU/s400/hostile2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f8Tdy4aQfdY/VaT0amEzomI/AAAAAAAABdE/UKOzY3fk2yU/s1600/hostile2.jpg) Hostile Witness @ Bench Tor. Stanage-like trade route, but bloody great for all that.

 (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ueoSvcsu44/VaT0fw8BbpI/AAAAAAAABeQ/AA-LavkJxXg/s400/stlevans.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ueoSvcsu44/VaT0fw8BbpI/AAAAAAAABeQ/AA-LavkJxXg/s1600/stlevans.jpg)All smiles at Levan's Wall :)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YJp619uzKBk/VaT0cUMIJHI/AAAAAAAABdg/D4Vzogdhtus/s400/leva1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YJp619uzKBk/VaT0cUMIJHI/AAAAAAAABdg/D4Vzogdhtus/s1600/leva1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YTHV6cs8Cq0/VaT0c_No0kI/AAAAAAAABdk/YpNUPyClb9I/s400/leva2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YTHV6cs8Cq0/VaT0c_No0kI/AAAAAAAABdk/YpNUPyClb9I/s1600/leva2.jpg)Midnight Express @ Levan's Wall. Good line, good route, quite pokey at the grade though, with fiddly gear and spaced holds.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GD4PZB7wu5M/VaT009nZqRI/AAAAAAAABeY/Wzqz4HycGqc/s400/levb2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GD4PZB7wu5M/VaT009nZqRI/AAAAAAAABeY/Wzqz4HycGqc/s1600/levb2.jpg) Devil's Meridian @ Levan's Wall. A real classic this, better overall than Bermuda Wall, with a good line and continuously interesting and thoughful crack climbing.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RqejRtWBKPo/VaT0dUXQi1I/AAAAAAAABdw/pKllWtnZe4c/s400/levc0.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RqejRtWBKPo/VaT0dUXQi1I/AAAAAAAABdw/pKllWtnZe4c/s1600/levc0.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f8KXplIpEAE/VaT0eJOF_MI/AAAAAAAABd0/4XhTNy0dttw/s400/levc2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f8KXplIpEAE/VaT0eJOF_MI/AAAAAAAABd0/4XhTNy0dttw/s1600/levc2.jpg) Bermuda Wall @ Levan's Wall. Not quite as balanced as DM - it's a bit of a sketchy E3 5c with thin gear to start into a classic E0 for most of it - but I can't argue with 3 stars for the line alone. Went for a great pub meal in the Old Success @ Sennen Cove after this.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p6R2NtJSpLE/VaT0egQYgXI/AAAAAAAABeA/H7WkEkpaYhU/s400/silver1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p6R2NtJSpLE/VaT0egQYgXI/AAAAAAAABeA/H7WkEkpaYhU/s1600/silver1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e_y5I43nrnE/VaT0fJ5EwAI/AAAAAAAABeE/lbmk-BYGTs0/s400/silver2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e_y5I43nrnE/VaT0fJ5EwAI/AAAAAAAABeE/lbmk-BYGTs0/s1600/silver2.jpg) Silver Shadow @ Carn Vellan. Nope Carn Vellan is not just about bolt controversies and E10s etc etc. It's got a load of great E2-3s on an impressive but pretty amenable face, with a great chill-out area beneath the cave. You do need to get the tides and sun right though, low tide to access most routes and afternoon sun to dry the rock. This had plenty of both especially the sun and I reached the top with my eyes stinging from sweat!

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bHO78vcRC5s/VaT0bf4oC3I/AAAAAAAABdQ/t0-F5x_kwig/s400/hot2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bHO78vcRC5s/VaT0bf4oC3I/AAAAAAAABdQ/t0-F5x_kwig/s1600/hot2.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rVbBBuigISw/VaT0b_a0HRI/AAAAAAAABdU/yf7OqJtL5AE/s400/hot3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rVbBBuigISw/VaT0b_a0HRI/AAAAAAAABdU/yf7OqJtL5AE/s1600/hot3.jpg) Hot Rubber @ Carn Vellan, timed to get the shade but it turns out to be almost a grade easier than Silver Shadow rather than harder, so it wasn't needed, but at least reduced the heatstroke a bit... I'm really pleased with the light on the first photo, and the last photo shows the face well. I've got a few things to go back for, I really like the Killas :). This was after a morning at Pedn Kei, a great day out overall.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: fatneck on July 15, 2015, 08:34:50 am
Nice photies Fiend!!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2015, 09:38:44 am
Yeah good shots. I always fancied Hostile Witness, but thought it might not suit my gangly frame. Photos pretty much confirm it.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 15, 2015, 10:36:34 am
Thanks guys. All done via interval timer and then selected from the 150 of me standing around faffing with gear. TBH they're not as good as they could have been, I screwed up the settings on some, and the light changed from good to rubbish on others. I like the first Hot Rubber one though.

Hostile Witness would be okay for the tall I think, both cruxes require quite a stretch and there's not really a bunched bit - maybe the shake on the flake but it is such a good shake you'd be okay.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2015, 11:22:28 am
If ever I'm down that way I might give it a go!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: cowboyhat on July 15, 2015, 02:06:52 pm
Really jealous of that Cornwall trip: I went down there for a week in the summer a couple of years ago to do more or less exactly what you did and it rained non stop.
Title: Re: Cornwall.
Post by: duncan on July 15, 2015, 04:00:19 pm

Local Hero E2 5c * - good stuff, nicely balanced.


Impeccable taste you have!

Sounds like a great trip. Mark Kemball and the North Cornwall guide team will be interested in your thoughts on grades and so forth if you've not contacted them already.

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2015, 04:18:17 pm
Fiend rarely lets his thoughts about grades be known. Or argued about.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 15, 2015, 04:57:38 pm
 :furious:

Duncan, cheers, it was a nice route, bold and steady then safe and cranky. I'll email stuff to Mark.
Title: Snowdon Shower-dodging.
Post by: comPiler on August 06, 2015, 01:00:09 am
Snowdon Shower-dodging. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/08/snowdon-shower-dodging.html)
5 August 2015, 10:42 pm



I've decided to spend a longer period in North / Mid Wales to try to do some of the many and varied climbs that inspire me down there. This has exactly coincided with a longer period of utterly dire weather and one of the worst "summers" the region has seen.  So for the moment the deeper desires of The Pass, The Rhinnogs, The Moelwyns, and Arennig Fawr have been put on a very reluctant hold, in favour of the mostly inferior but mercifully extensive wet weather options of The Slate, The Lime, and hopefully The Quartzite and The Lleyn. I hadn't fully warmed up for the latter so haven't actually tackled  Rhoscolyn nor South Stack nor Craig Doris yet, but have had a few fun days out and even a couple of hours bouldering squeezed onto the tail end of a showery snowdonia shitfest:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tr2llDKel1E/VcKB-XZbBvI/AAAAAAAABfU/hZeQGi8feKU/s400/hut.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tr2llDKel1E/VcKB-XZbBvI/AAAAAAAABfU/hZeQGi8feKU/s1600/hut.jpg) The classic Dali's Hole hut, as surreal as ever. The room I'm renting in Bangor is a bit more upmarket than this, but only a little bit... This was after a very nice afternoon on the Railtrack Slab, with a total of 183 crimps and 57 rockovers used.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VXqakcQ9Kbo/VcKB-gTquvI/AAAAAAAABfY/8UoadaA0VS8/s400/fiend_pop.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VXqakcQ9Kbo/VcKB-gTquvI/AAAAAAAABfY/8UoadaA0VS8/s1600/fiend_pop.jpg) Bouldering at Drws Y Coed after it had showered most of the day and we'd escaped to some minor sport climbing on Anglesey. After this neat problem I hooned over to Ogwen and just managed to squeeze in Bombshell at the Milestone Boulders, see below.

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_zKbIkA-uis/VcKB-NYVq5I/AAAAAAAABfQ/_XyGRd8V8qY/s400/ormesunset.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_zKbIkA-uis/VcKB-NYVq5I/AAAAAAAABfQ/_XyGRd8V8qY/s1600/ormesunset.jpg)Sunset from Hornby Crags on the Great Orme. A fairly newly revamped sport sector with a lot of good 6s in an atmospheric and secluded location. We did 6 in an evening which was good mileage.

Video of bouldering:

 Pleased to get Bombshell done as on first acquaintance it seemed I wouldn't be able to do the move to the lip, nor the crux span from the back, and even if I hyopthetically did, I would need more pads and spotters given the weird landing. A bit of dicking around later and I had it all worked out,  including using my beanie to plug up a seepage line.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Richie Crouch on August 06, 2015, 09:06:43 am
Great riverdance skills on bombshell! Quite keen to visit drws y coed on Saturday before heading elsewhere. Is it near to any other decent bouldering/oddities?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on August 06, 2015, 10:01:58 am
LOL, cheers, all pretty shoddy but I was fighting to stay on.

Drws Y Coed is not far from Beddgelert so there's quite a choice around there, all within a few miles of the Rhyd-Ddu junction, although I think most are a bit further to walk than Drws Y Coed's 1.5 minutes (.5 of which is opening and closing a gate).

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10735

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Hidden%20Gold%20V2.pdf

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17297

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Fontainefawr%20V4.pdf

I think there are more NWB topos but I can't find them. Moel Y Gest is not too far either.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Richie Crouch on August 06, 2015, 10:59:31 am
Cheers! Hadn't seen that beddgelert Hidden gold block before but have climbed at Boss Cuvier a few years back. Might get on that and go check out the stuff further into the main woods where the shocker block is (minging weather/fog permitting!).
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Hoseyb on August 06, 2015, 06:23:12 pm
Next Wednesday after work is looking viable for a Mymbyr Session, You up for that as well Richie?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Richie Crouch on August 07, 2015, 12:08:31 am
I think we may be out for dinner in Bo selecta Morris weds night, but I'll let you know ASAP as I'm keen  :thumbsup:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on August 07, 2015, 09:23:57 am
I'll give it a go, unless I'm benighted on South Stack or something.
Title: Slate Of The Art.
Post by: comPiler on August 14, 2015, 01:00:11 pm
Slate Of The Art. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/08/slate-of-art.html)
14 August 2015, 11:35 am



(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e3zT6wym9v8/Vc3C1o2uoOI/AAAAAAAABf8/7WGpUEnWSgM/s400/dinorwic.jpg) The next day's target, taken from Cwm Glas Bach.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DrTLM89Ym6k/Vc3C1VQZi3I/AAAAAAAABf4/DkTDBesnvH4/s400/fiend_tentative.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DrTLM89Ym6k/Vc3C1VQZi3I/AAAAAAAABf4/DkTDBesnvH4/s1600/fiend_tentative.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vxu3hAWa39U/Vc3C1yCerjI/AAAAAAAABgA/uDju4BD_YnM/s400/fiend_tentative2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vxu3hAWa39U/Vc3C1yCerjI/AAAAAAAABgA/uDju4BD_YnM/s1600/fiend_tentative2.jpg) Making some Tentative Decisions like "Shall I decide to do this move and risk falling off, ripping 5 bits of shit gear I've got pretty boxed placing, and take a 10m lob past the lone bolt??"

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gVC6yJJAmek/Vc3C2H58qvI/AAAAAAAABgE/nuAuGrGczr4/s400/fiend_wank2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gVC6yJJAmek/Vc3C2H58qvI/AAAAAAAABgE/nuAuGrGczr4/s1600/fiend_wank2.jpg) Mini-mountains!

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6VfCDPaJ-XI/Vc3C3OUMeRI/AAAAAAAABgM/XV0NBOejtLk/s400/goats.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6VfCDPaJ-XI/Vc3C3OUMeRI/AAAAAAAABgM/XV0NBOejtLk/s1600/goats.jpg) Wanna fuck with these goats?? Nah, didn't think so.

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fOKWFFZkAiA/Vc3C2ufLzhI/AAAAAAAABgI/UkZq0d_ghZk/s400/goat2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fOKWFFZkAiA/Vc3C2ufLzhI/AAAAAAAABgI/UkZq0d_ghZk/s1600/goat2.jpg) You talking to me, motherfucker?!

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VT-2vJ63FbY/Vc3C3l1pcCI/AAAAAAAABgU/ZXJZ-Yw_Ch8/s400/slate.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VT-2vJ63FbY/Vc3C3l1pcCI/AAAAAAAABgU/ZXJZ-Yw_Ch8/s1600/slate.jpg)Keeping busy whilst Coel is threading lower-offs...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Shock Of The New
Post by: comPiler on August 17, 2015, 07:00:05 pm
Shock Of The New (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/08/shock-of-new.html)
17 August 2015, 1:29 pm



...again. A trip to Wales without going to Rhinnogs is like a curry without a Cobra, a cappucino without an extra coffee shot - something essential is missing. And I don't mean Rhinnogs in the miserly token-gesture bandwagon-jumping Rockfax micro-coverage. Admittedly Lechau Mawr and Y Grisau are superb crags, but such limited plum-picking and honey-potting is quite contrary to the spirit of exploration in the area as well as a disservice to those developing and documenting it.

The days out I've had recently have been proper Rhinnogs days - hosted by the foremost developer and documentor, the legendary Terry Taylor, and accompanied by fellow enthusiast The Pylon Kunt....and naturally such days include new routing as well as second ascents. The lengths have been short, in keeping with the gritstone stature, but the quality has been high and the potential, around the Cwm Nantcol area, highly impressive. I've ended up doing two of the best new routes I've done:

The Bilberry Hunter E4 6a ** 10m

A good climb with a bold  start and bouldery finish, and good cams in-between. Spring onto the  first rail just right of (E4 5c), carefully gain the first break and  then the second break on satisfying holds. A thoughtful crux on layaways  leads to the finishing jug.

(named after the third man, who was easily distracted by local flora)


TT has numerous E5-ish projects at this short steep crag, but hadn't even spotted this line properly until he abbed down while I was repeating a neat new E2. He had a quick play on a top-rope but there were too many sidepulls for his tweaky elbow. I decided to have a quick look, quickly realised it was rather cool, gave it a good scrub, got the top dialled, and shot up it in a flurry of headpoint gaylordness. Not a style I'm familiar so it's hard to judge the grade, but the quality and balance of the pitch were still obvious.

Whillans Crack "HVS 5b" ***

Precisely named, with a grade as traditional as the line. The magnificent cleft delivers everything it promises, small cams and large nuts protect.


(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rEkisPS_rac/VdHMPdjRKoI/AAAAAAAABhA/zABj0uNQzJI/s400/whillans.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rEkisPS_rac/VdHMPdjRKoI/AAAAAAAABhA/zABj0uNQzJI/s1600/whillans.jpg)Same valley, same guru, different day, different crag....very different climb. Somewhat tired and somewhat midged to death (I'd got complacent about the relatively tame Welsh midges and left the repellant behind), TT had already retreated, PK was soaking in the atmosphere, but I couldn't resist this fantastic fissure. What one route would Brown and Whillans done if they'd visited? Exactly. I topped out giggling with my left arm covered in cuts and grazes. Hosey, your time!

Also quite a cool line but not in the same class:

Word Of Pain E3 5c **

Likely to be uttered if you fall off. The right side of the sharp arete is serious but steady after a tricky start. From blocks place high tiny RPs, pull onto the arete and make difficult extended moves to good holds up right. More RPs possible, then climb gracefully up the positive arete with no further gear.


(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LhlZKcmEwbI/VdHM_v721mI/AAAAAAAABhI/XH_yKIiXDto/s400/fiend_word.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LhlZKcmEwbI/VdHM_v721mI/AAAAAAAABhI/XH_yKIiXDto/s1600/fiend_word.jpg)This is the right hand side of PK's Dark Orgasm pillar (itself an undeniable classic, visible from literally miles away). Great line, slightly unbalanced climbing, a cool hard crux with 1 HB zero next to your face and a jagged block below. Above that, delightful and easy. Unfortunately the camera decided to stop taking shots and missed the funky final reach with the last proper gear being just above my hand, and only a poor taped on skyhook above.

Incidentally before this we revisited the site of my Careless Orc mini-classic that I'm still bemused why it wasn't considered worthy of a North Wales Bouldering mention (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24830.0.html), and I'm pleased to say it 1. Hasn't fallen over and 2. Still looks really cool and inspiring.

Finally, here's a second ascent of a TT E4 6a, very much the spiritual twin of The Bilberry Hunter (similar height, similar steepness, also crux at the top, also on the lowest tier of a 3 tier crag system in the Nantcol pass...quite uncanny). Had to fight at the top of this which was nice:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FPqZfHOi1sE/VdHPkLcFASI/AAAAAAAABhU/dd201RhssQ0/s320/fiend_ttnew0.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FPqZfHOi1sE/VdHPkLcFASI/AAAAAAAABhU/dd201RhssQ0/s1600/fiend_ttnew0.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YjiLcAkcNYU/VdHPkgJeYXI/AAAAAAAABhY/Qeu0xu9l4UY/s320/fiend_ttnew.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YjiLcAkcNYU/VdHPkgJeYXI/AAAAAAAABhY/Qeu0xu9l4UY/s1600/fiend_ttnew.jpg)The wall to the right has 3 E2-ish things in a row up obvious flakes, then 2 VS-ish things at the far end. There's another half a dozen routes to the left, a comfy bilberry base, and nice clean tops.

And the Lleyn looks like this from Cwm Nantcol...

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3ZEJqp27geM/VdHQCtVyW6I/AAAAAAAABhk/kL8i9qyQstw/s400/sunset.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3ZEJqp27geM/VdHQCtVyW6I/AAAAAAAABhk/kL8i9qyQstw/s1600/sunset.jpg)...gnight!



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: fatneck on August 18, 2015, 08:58:33 am
Nice work Fiend... Hosey's a nice chap isn't he :kiss2:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on August 19, 2015, 09:13:43 am
He is a cuddly bundle of crack bloc sandbagging pain fun.
Title: Young And Easy And Under The Apple Boughs.
Post by: comPiler on August 29, 2015, 01:00:37 pm
Young And Easy And Under The Apple Boughs. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/08/young-and-easy-and-under-apple-boughs.html)
29 August 2015, 10:57 am



(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S1l-Rsx8g80/VeF2nNEQByI/AAAAAAAABiI/MpnijbUzVF0/s400/fiend_apple1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S1l-Rsx8g80/VeF2nNEQByI/AAAAAAAABiI/MpnijbUzVF0/s1600/fiend_apple1.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mqOSE86v5v0/VeF2nX3K4RI/AAAAAAAABiM/MzwnMcjDMJA/s400/fiend_apple2a.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mqOSE86v5v0/VeF2nX3K4RI/AAAAAAAABiM/MzwnMcjDMJA/s1600/fiend_apple2a.jpg)

A surprisingly pleasant "breather", this line is not as crumbly as it appears, and is outside of the day's mould, remaining unseen amongst the creations of it's grand neighbours. Left as an oddity and ungrabbed by attention, it seemed to "spring in" when ready, and rang with the pleasure of those promising, blissful days of May.


...

This John Redhead is a cunt
...

There is a certain pleasure in doing a route that has, even to a small degree, a mark of the man. A Dawes grit route, a Pritchard Gogarth wobble-fest, a Smith roof or crack (or usually both), a Crocker sea-cliff line, a Fowler chossheap, a Bob Smith heinous highball... Of course I am far too bumbly for almost all of these, but occasionally something "outside of the day's mould" slips through the net of truly big numbers and is accessible to the masses. YAEAUTAB (jeez!) is one of a solitary handful of routes in ...And One For The Crow that I am actually capable of, the second one I have done, and an inspiration that was solely due to the book and photo. It definitely felt outside of the day's mould for slate, being a very trad experience with committing climbing above spaced gear - no bolts, crimps nor rockovers in sight.

Something else very much outside of the day's mould is this (although given the quality and accessibility of the crag, it shouldn't be!):

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oZDp8zU-3Nk/VeGAOFFmEcI/AAAAAAAABig/VhGfOgRT9F0/s400/11884625_10207589804568877_8117137421433775761_o.jpg)  (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oZDp8zU-3Nk/VeGAOFFmEcI/AAAAAAAABig/VhGfOgRT9F0/s1600/11884625_10207589804568877_8117137421433775761_o.jpg)(photo: Terry Taylor)

Diamond Eliminate, at Bird Rock. One of the finest truly roadside adventures in the whole of Wales. If you can cope with the 1 minute uphill walk in, the Diamond face of The Bastion towers over you, gently overhanging for 45m. Steady juggy bold-ish E2 5b climbing neatly sandwiches a committing E4 5c crux on slopers past a definitive "cluster of bollox" gear selection, and leads to a fine summit experience at the apex. Typically for me this was an 8 year inspiration, following a showery recce in 2007, and typically it turned out to be a highly enjoyable experience under the watchful eye of local guru TT  - alas not one of his routes though, but I'm sure I'll do more of those soon.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Headz.
Post by: comPiler on September 09, 2015, 01:00:06 am
Headz. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/09/headz.html)
8 September 2015, 10:27 pm



I think I've now read all of Martin Crook's "Diaries of A Slatehead" in the fine new(-ish) Slate guide, albeit in sporadic bursts and in the wrong order. I really like the way he refers to the slate gurus and aficiandos simply as "heads", emphasising the cultish dedication to the medium (or The Medium?). Thinking further, heads are not the only cult in the area - away from the hoary old traditionalists and honeypotted classic-baggers of the mountains, the fringes have their own dedicated acolytes and accolades: Slateheads, Ormesmen ritually circling Pen Trwyn, and presumably Coastline Perverts praying at the tottering temples of the Lleyn (the latter has only a passing mention in the definitive guide, but the spirit and idea is strong enough). I think one could add Rhinnogite as a further path to follow, not least because following paths in those broad hills is not an easy task. The addictive nature of the climbing and exploring seems to match nicely other three cults.

I'm not sure the exact qualities one needs to attain those titles, and I suspect it is a matter of spirit rather than box-ticking (just like climbing, then....). Certainly ownership of a North Wales Rockfax would be an immediate preclusion, and choosing such areas merely for convenience or fashion would demonstrate a lack of essential soul. A lasting passion and appreciation of the perculiarities of the rock type, along with varied exploration of the venues would be a good start, and a calm, knowing utterance of: "Yes, This is it" might be a confirmatory finish.

Unfortuately despite erring towards those tendencies on a regular basis, I don't think I'm quite deserving to be a head, yet (not that I could ever achieve it via accomplishments, only via dedication - but that's the main quality). I'm close with the slate, having been from the heights of Upper Australia to the depths of Vivian in adjacent visits, and done a 6a rockover next to skyhooks in one of those visits, but slate is so afflicted with hordes that the bar needs to be set higher - more exploration needed. I'm tip-toeing along the Ormesman path but have a long way to go - more routes away from Marine Drive and perhaps climbing at my limit in all 3 disciplines, trad sport and bouldering, would further my steps. On the Lleyn, I have the passion but not the experience, I mean every numpty and his dog has done Byzantium - going off-piste with the definitive guide is the appealing way forward.

I suspect I am a Rhinnogite, even if it's my own suggestion. Visiting several venues all along the ridgeline - yes. Doing multiple hollow star routes and likely second ascents - yes. New-routing with Terry Taylor - yes. Pushing myself on a few routes as good as any short outcrop routes anywhere - yes. Falling in heather, bilberries, and boulder chasms - yes. That must be enough....

Anywhere here are some pictures of that chalky polished trade route Byzantium, it is still fantastic:

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TAFflXfcQ4Q/Ve9R4giqANI/AAAAAAAABi8/RCCZGwtvy8Q/s400/byzant1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TAFflXfcQ4Q/Ve9R4giqANI/AAAAAAAABi8/RCCZGwtvy8Q/s1600/byzant1.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QIHL8WkLsSw/Ve9R4C44-bI/AAAAAAAABi0/zbaGXvRnZ_Y/s400/byzant2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QIHL8WkLsSw/Ve9R4C44-bI/AAAAAAAABi0/zbaGXvRnZ_Y/s1600/byzant2.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fMjCQye8YUk/Ve9R4Y2D7xI/AAAAAAAABi4/qzkl5haAxSU/s400/byzant3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fMjCQye8YUk/Ve9R4Y2D7xI/AAAAAAAABi4/qzkl5haAxSU/s1600/byzant3.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M7s-tFuW5CU/Ve9R49AtW0I/AAAAAAAABjE/IrakyWdkdO8/s400/byzant4.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M7s-tFuW5CU/Ve9R49AtW0I/AAAAAAAABjE/IrakyWdkdO8/s1600/byzant4.jpg)

This is a boulder below Direct Hit. I thought it was rather pretty. The route was jolly good fun.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_A2kV-GMdgQ/Ve9R5UkPskI/AAAAAAAABjQ/dxkEBeh7aa4/s320/pebble.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_A2kV-GMdgQ/Ve9R5UkPskI/AAAAAAAABjQ/dxkEBeh7aa4/s1600/pebble.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 09, 2015, 12:30:04 pm
Effort Fiend, proper classics. The one right of Direct Hit (same start) is not much harder and a much better line. Honeydew is chop route without a tricam 1/1.5.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 09, 2015, 09:26:48 pm
Cheers beast. Been meaning to get back ever since you berated me for doing The Mermaid... "Worst route on the golden wall" on my first visit ;). Byzantium really is great. And Direct Hit felt more like a proper Doris experience, I placed all of a double set of cams except the two smallest ones, and both Coel and myself pulled a hold off. The one to the right could be a goer....I did want to have a look at Honeydew, the photo inspired me, but the rib start has fallen down and it looked a bit longwinded to get on it....
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 10, 2015, 01:09:05 pm
I did want to have a look at Honeydew, the photo inspired me, but the rib start has fallen down and it looked a bit longwinded to get on it....

Oh wow, didn't know that. Has that affected the E2 as well then. Any pics?

Crux move on Byzantium ok then? Last time I did it it felt well boney.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 11, 2015, 12:03:55 pm
HD - if you look at the topo photo there's a distinct area of angled rock just right of the start of Knowing Her, it looks triangular in the photo due to the shadow. That section has gone (up to 3m or so), leaving the remaining half of the rock to the right. Thus the possible start to HD would be a highly brutal slanting roof crack out from the cave, or starting 6m further right up the brown wall and trending left to reach the KH crack at the niche. I'm pretty sure KH would be possible starting up the brown wall the same way...I didn't want to try HD this way as to protect the 2nd could have given epic rope drag potential.

As it was we had to build a large cairn to reach the first holds of DH, taking the exact line in the topo...

Sorry, should have got a picture, doh.

Byzantium crux was nice, and easy. I was a bit worried that it was going to be hard to clipped the peg and reversed for a 7 minute rest. Turned out to be fine, it suited me well, vertical cranking on positive holds with high rockovers. Really nice!
Title: I found myself in Wales...
Post by: comPiler on September 16, 2015, 01:00:16 am
I found myself in Wales... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/09/i-found-myself-in-wales.html)
15 September 2015, 7:22 pm



...and I found myself in Wales.

Hippy bollox, but entirely true. I just had an extended spell in Wales and rediscovered the joy of climbing and therefore the joy of existing. I pushed myself harder, and my tweaks and aches felt better. I ate worse, and got fitter and lost weight. I had only sporadic friends around, and felt more sociable and affable. I stayed in a slightly dingy, barren room, and felt more comfortable and slept better. The weather was generally rubbish to mediocre, and I managed to get more climbing done than previously in the year.

I ended up in the wrong weather, but in the right place and the right time to work around that, and follow many of my inspirations in many different areas. It helps that being based in Bangor there are approx 10 guidebooks worth of climbing within an hour's drive (Gogarth North, Gogarth South, Limestone, Slate, Llanberis Pass, Ogwen and Carneddau, Tremadog, Meirionydd,  Cloggy, Cwm Silyn and Lleyn - I count the last 3 as totalling 2 normal guides are they are individually slim volumes) - compared to approx 1 guidebook living in Glasgow (half of Lowland Outcrops, half of Highland Outcrops). It helps even more that the wet weather options: GN, GS, Lime, Slate, and Lleyn are both plentiful, varied, accessible, and in themselves enthralling and exciting areas. Some of my Pass inspirations had to be put on hold, but one does not really go to Gogarth and grumble that it is a merely a mundane escaping-the-showers option. These venues held plenty of appeal as well as a revelatory quick hit approach, all being within half an hour's easy drive.

Thus, I did my climbing thing, my real climbing thing, of choice and variety and routes that personally appeal to me. Although the overriding feeling from this was happiness, there was also some satisfaction in climbing well, climbing as well on trad as I ever have. As usual this is down to a variety of factors (not just time on the rock, as I started doing reasonably challenging stuff after scarcely a day warming into it):

In short: 66% location, 33% lots of effort and preparation and persistence.

I suppose I could do lists n shit, how about a top ten climbing experiences of the time down there:

(to be fair this list should be 1-11. all The Long Run and then 12-20 everything else, but Ordered Lists don't let me do that ;)).

Finally some random photos I probably didn't post before:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WjU5jTFlMbw/VfhhDVHSA8I/AAAAAAAABj0/q_pK9JTeVcg/s400/fiend_bubbles1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WjU5jTFlMbw/VfhhDVHSA8I/AAAAAAAABj0/q_pK9JTeVcg/s1600/fiend_bubbles1.jpg)

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_w-0BNEMMQE/VfhhDEDbu-I/AAAAAAAABjw/XsFg1Kj2QNM/s400/fiend_crad.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_w-0BNEMMQE/VfhhDEDbu-I/AAAAAAAABjw/XsFg1Kj2QNM/s1600/fiend_crad.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jJg22_GfMzw/VfhhCPiwbMI/AAAAAAAABjo/4yAiCEr6crk/s400/fiend_gorbals.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jJg22_GfMzw/VfhhCPiwbMI/AAAAAAAABjo/4yAiCEr6crk/s1600/fiend_gorbals.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eaeDhJgntdE/VfhhD-e4IxI/AAAAAAAABj8/-kp1IyVB8so/s400/fiend_man1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eaeDhJgntdE/VfhhD-e4IxI/AAAAAAAABj8/-kp1IyVB8so/s1600/fiend_man1.jpg)

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h8dj0jxxQPo/VfhhEqURu-I/AAAAAAAABkE/Ge1jTskTis8/s400/fiend_sooth.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h8dj0jxxQPo/VfhhEqURu-I/AAAAAAAABkE/Ge1jTskTis8/s1600/fiend_sooth.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EfDi0WQhffo/VfhhE7r90pI/AAAAAAAABkU/D6qwOMLd-RU/s400/fiend_war4.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EfDi0WQhffo/VfhhE7r90pI/AAAAAAAABkU/D6qwOMLd-RU/s1600/fiend_war4.jpg)

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IR9Ee23lTRM/VfhhF9X5nzI/AAAAAAAABkY/F6x99CoTGOE/s400/line.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IR9Ee23lTRM/VfhhF9X5nzI/AAAAAAAABkY/F6x99CoTGOE/s1600/line.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I-LtPEnBIJk/VfhhGud49pI/AAAAAAAABkk/dPPeQpiiNls/s400/rhinnoghorses.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I-LtPEnBIJk/VfhhGud49pI/AAAAAAAABkk/dPPeQpiiNls/s1600/rhinnoghorses.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_dxRPnf6MlM/VfhhHG4um5I/AAAAAAAABkw/Ij76FGhsGlg/s400/slateeyes.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_dxRPnf6MlM/VfhhHG4um5I/AAAAAAAABkw/Ij76FGhsGlg/s1600/slateeyes.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: creedence on September 17, 2015, 11:15:01 am
Nice write up, I enjoyed that.  I look forward to being good enough to do Crimson Cruiser, I love that crag, and can never understand why it isn't more popular!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 17, 2015, 02:59:36 pm
Cheers.

The rock is brilliant, I'd forgotten how good and pockety it was. I wanted to do Non Dairy Creamer too, but we ran out of time. The guys I were with both did Great Feet, I seconded it twice, really good route. The whole Moelwyns deserves more attention, I've done some great stuff on the Western Crags and also Upper Wrsygan (the latter being totally understarred). Carreg Y Foel Gron (first two shots) has some similar rock - and some rock just like Black Crag Wrynose, a great combination (albeit on smaller routes).
Title: Wales again.
Post by: comPiler on October 07, 2015, 07:00:10 pm
Wales again. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/10/wales-again.html)
7 October 2015, 1:07 pm



I went back, the weather was glorious this time, I didn't climb on any mountainy crags and I didn't do any really challenging trad. I did however, do a lot of walking in the Rhinnogs and got my final photo tick...

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vByJI0Hr0m8/VhUKCWXzoiI/AAAAAAAABlk/v1nyChZC-Ks/s400/fiend_minyaur.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vByJI0Hr0m8/VhUKCWXzoiI/AAAAAAAABlk/v1nyChZC-Ks/s1600/fiend_minyaur.jpg)

And finally got involved with some definitive Lleyn guide climbing at the charming Wylfa area (after meeting and chatting with The Crook)...

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-43nYfFxJFsA/VhUKS5SqztI/AAAAAAAABls/wrcZxIagJro/s400/fiend_scissors.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-43nYfFxJFsA/VhUKS5SqztI/AAAAAAAABls/wrcZxIagJro/s1600/fiend_scissors.jpg)

And did my hardest sport route (and hardest moves) on slate...

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v__R1E_ZvQA/VhUKiQvXZAI/AAAAAAAABl0/rFvUGmXTfLM/s400/fiend_slate3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v__R1E_ZvQA/VhUKiQvXZAI/AAAAAAAABl0/rFvUGmXTfLM/s1600/fiend_slate3.jpg)

And took my best ever photo of a bee...

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YrEf8rza5uk/VhUKrFQDBSI/AAAAAAAABl8/eBcnSQocPvs/s400/beeta.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YrEf8rza5uk/VhUKrFQDBSI/AAAAAAAABl8/eBcnSQocPvs/s1600/beeta.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: fatneck on October 08, 2015, 12:08:55 pm
Nice Fiend! Great couple of posts, mucho psyche. Appreciated...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 08, 2015, 12:43:51 pm
Nice, was Scissors good? Any day with the Crook is a good one, first time I met him was on Cilan too.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on October 08, 2015, 01:00:54 pm
Scissors was cool, really quite pumpy for a jugpull. Tris followed it and kicked a foothold off near the top, falling off and cutting his finger.

I actually met Martin at a boulder traversing crag next to Hyll-Drem when we were hanging out with Terry Taylor. TT was working the traverse and a slow worm fell on his head at one point. Martin smoked incessantly and said that Wylfa West was "quite short" but "good for racking up several routes". Which I suppose it is, depending how much time you need to recover after each top-out. I abbed down past your and Caff's route, it looks evil!
Title: The Calling
Post by: comPiler on October 14, 2015, 01:00:04 pm
The Calling (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/10/the-calling.html)
14 October 2015, 12:40 pm



From Welsh Grit to Yorkshire Grit, but when will The Calling take place?? I went down this weekend for a pre-season friendly, well I use "friendly" in a loose sense as none of the 100+ climbers I have on two Facebook profiles (most of whom live very near either the grit or myself) nor anyone on UKC/B/A/Z seemed keen to join me for some routes despite it being such a bustly area. So a friendless recce mission it was, although as it turned out Rylstone was heaving with climbers and I probably could have tagged on to an odd numbered group. I didn't, instead I sulked a bit, walked a lot, lost some skin and didn't climb that much. Still it was useful recceing: Rylstone has plenty to go at in fairly decent conditions, Widdop is festering on the North faces but has a few appealing routes on the West faces, Simon's Seat solos are still too hard for me at this stage but should stay in nick for a while.

As for the calling....I'm glad it is in the hands of the frictional guru rather than the slippery paws of the egg-dropping lime thugs. This trip highlighted how difficult and sensitive the call is: The air was hazy but not humid, the wind was fresh but fickle, the rock was cool but not crisp. Lord's Seat was perfect in a perky breeze, Simon's Seat was unclimbable in the shelter and later sun. I reckon you could change 1 technical grade per 45° of relocation around the blocks. So we shall see what happens. I've got a surprising amount of grit psyche so am planning to start on the bleaker moorland crags before the weather gets too grim, then lower the altitude and swing sunwards as the winter draws in...

Here's some pottering and pondering:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wl-MEqwVUN0/Vh49pRJLhpI/AAAAAAAABms/7kbUdWm3oKc/s400/fiend_doe2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wl-MEqwVUN0/Vh49pRJLhpI/AAAAAAAABms/7kbUdWm3oKc/s1600/fiend_doe2.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M7Hdap5GzVQ/Vh49os91u9I/AAAAAAAABmk/zBR6hRcnADE/s400/fiend_poe3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M7Hdap5GzVQ/Vh49os91u9I/AAAAAAAABmk/zBR6hRcnADE/s1600/fiend_poe3.jpg)

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yFrKQgR34Uk/Vh49pc6-Y0I/AAAAAAAABmw/jVRz3Fc1D00/s400/fiendinahole.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yFrKQgR34Uk/Vh49pc6-Y0I/AAAAAAAABmw/jVRz3Fc1D00/s1600/fiendinahole.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on October 14, 2015, 02:08:49 pm
Nice, love Rylstone, my favourite Yorkshire crag. I was on a solo mission when I did Poetry in Motion, and the jug at the top was full to the lip with water and slime. Challenging
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on October 14, 2015, 02:12:24 pm
Gulp, yeah that would be a bit nervy given that jug is a bit of a life-saver. Really neat moves I thought although the crux took a bit of figuring out. The White Doe pocket was less reassuring to reach. I'm hopefully going to go back with a rope on soon.

Compiler keeps missing out the Youtube videos I post, these are essential to the climbing / blogging experience, so here it is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gHisMo51YI
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on October 14, 2015, 03:56:01 pm
The White Doe pocket was less reassuring to reach.

One I'm not ashamed to admit is way easier for the ape like.
Title: Zwei Grosse Weissbiers Bitte!
Post by: comPiler on October 27, 2015, 01:00:06 pm
Zwei Grosse Weissbiers Bitte! (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/10/zwei-grosse-weissbiers-bitte.html)
27 October 2015, 10:20 am



Lightning visit to the wonderful Pfalzer Felsenlands to meet PJ who was collecting a caravan from Cologne. Once again a great place to explore, but although being 25°C cooler  than my previous visit, there was almost no breeze so I didn't get to crank as hard as I hoped - feeling semi-strong is of little use when I'm simply sliding off slopers. I need to do some average windspeed research for next time. In the meantime...

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dlhft_RgsOE/Vi8-0ij-K2I/AAAAAAAABoY/_hLb4sQS4Tk/s400/fiend_walkin.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dlhft_RgsOE/Vi8-0ij-K2I/AAAAAAAABoY/_hLb4sQS4Tk/s1600/fiend_walkin.jpg)Walking in through a forest. Like every single approach there. I don't know why I'm using the guidebook for directions as it's entirely in German and I understand about 10 words, 4 of which are the title of this blog post.

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NnorHiNFBRo/Vi8-12L3acI/AAAAAAAABoo/TcLF8_YrzHQ/s400/pfalz.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NnorHiNFBRo/Vi8-12L3acI/AAAAAAAABoo/TcLF8_YrzHQ/s1600/pfalz.jpg)What it's all about. Autumn in the Pfalz could be very good for 'shrooming, maybe.

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ex98Na-JePc/Vi8-zl9qMjI/AAAAAAAABoI/5C3i45mu5Y4/s400/fiend_triffels.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ex98Na-JePc/Vi8-zl9qMjI/AAAAAAAABoI/5C3i45mu5Y4/s1600/fiend_triffels.jpg)Triffels. One of the typically impressive bows of rock sailing out into the forest. Atypically this one starts with a rare proper slab with some rare proper slab climbing, with a much harder prow towering above. All of this is commanded from the bridge of the Burg Triffels castle further back along the ridge. Scenic...?  (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fEQUqvB_l64/Vi8-z6QKiwI/AAAAAAAABoM/j0Vf3_a3M38/s400/fiend_triffelsview.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fEQUqvB_l64/Vi8-z6QKiwI/AAAAAAAABoM/j0Vf3_a3M38/s1600/fiend_triffelsview.jpg)...yes indeed. This is further around to the left of the previous photo, at the join of the slab and the headwall. Unfortunately I failed on a semi-impressive route on the headwall when I reached a slopey break and could scarcely hang on let along do a massive reach to the next holds. Hmph.

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ra4L0PkG45I/Vi8-zGwvu2I/AAAAAAAABoE/5fkapUXReU0/s400/fiend_pebbletest.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ra4L0PkG45I/Vi8-zGwvu2I/AAAAAAAABoE/5fkapUXReU0/s1600/fiend_pebbletest.jpg)Practising Pfalz hanging belays. Soon after this we decided to give up on using the giant archaic ringbolts and just use the protection above. Actually pebbles were pleasingly common on this trip, along with....

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZugJ1rO8CPQ/Vi8-wrsOqHI/AAAAAAAABng/M7OLeAfuWuM/s400/beetle2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZugJ1rO8CPQ/Vi8-wrsOqHI/AAAAAAAABng/M7OLeAfuWuM/s1600/beetle2.jpg)...beetles. A fuckload of beetles, every day. Most of them seemed to aim unerringly for the approach tracks and bag-dumping basecamps, so I spend as much time rescuing the cute wee buggers as I did climbing. Although there was some good climbing...

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l1Vy2ukUcL4/Vi8-v7oyz7I/AAAAAAAABnc/_bpCWu8BR7g/s400/fiend_burg1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l1Vy2ukUcL4/Vi8-v7oyz7I/AAAAAAAABnc/_bpCWu8BR7g/s1600/fiend_burg1.jpg)One of many excellent grade 7s, which as usual features multiple and varied cruxes with good rests in between. This was at Burghaldefels, before sliding off a heinous slab on pebbles that I was far too sweaty to hold onto and left black with damp, but also before doing another excellent 7 that finished surfing along the crest of a concave wave overhanging 5m at the top of the crag. Once we walked out of the forest we realised it had been drizzling steadily most of the afternoon so no wonder the conditions were a bit flange.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SrdNuw54578/Vi8-xbkqY_I/AAAAAAAABno/OVQjeKQtRNI/s400/fiend_geier1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SrdNuw54578/Vi8-xbkqY_I/AAAAAAAABno/OVQjeKQtRNI/s1600/fiend_geier1.jpg)More pebbles, more excellent 7s, more cool crags. This is the crux of Geierwally on the Ostwand of Geierkopf und Geierschnabel, and involved an off balance slap off a pebble and hidden smear to a sloper. Sweaty as usual but holdable. And in case you're wondering what sort of rock feature this took place on....

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O2esWXL46Rc/Vi8-yEeRyBI/AAAAAAAABn0/21nAVqzdODk/s400/fiend_geier2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O2esWXL46Rc/Vi8-yEeRyBI/AAAAAAAABn0/21nAVqzdODk/s1600/fiend_geier2.jpg)...yup, that one. Can you see why I like this place??

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ECdNGriBknc/Vi8-1E7gp8I/AAAAAAAABok/77CMeT9Zmzo/s400/fiend_walkout.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ECdNGriBknc/Vi8-1E7gp8I/AAAAAAAABok/77CMeT9Zmzo/s1600/fiend_walkout.jpg)Walking around again. Forest, lots of forest. Very vibey place. If you like forest.

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vc-AN9vjLRY/Vi8-2cX28xI/AAAAAAAABos/gOT24a2vJoo/s400/zweigrossweissbierbitte.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vc-AN9vjLRY/Vi8-2cX28xI/AAAAAAAABos/gOT24a2vJoo/s1600/zweigrossweissbierbitte.jpg)Zwei grosse Weissbier bitte! How every day finished: Walk out in the dusk avoiding wolves and trolls, go back to the Buttelwoog campsite, crank the caravan's heater to max, go to the campsite bar, order Wiessbier und Schnitzel or similar, eat with gusto, head back to the now-sweltering caravan, chill out and crash out. A nice routine although not one for watching the waistline, not least because of the universally gentle crag approaches. I'm not sure how much of the good fitness work from Wales I've undone with these decadent dinners, but I'll need to hit the training harder again...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Correlation is not Causation.
Post by: comPiler on November 17, 2015, 01:00:13 pm
Correlation is not Causation. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/11/correlation-is-not-causation.html)
17 November 2015, 12:04 pm



So they say. I am rather suspicious of the correlation between me enthusiastically exhorting to my climbing friends "This autumn and winter I want to climb lots of gritstone", and the weather getting incomprehensibly and relentlessly fucking atrocious. It happens most recent years, but this year has been by far the worst. We have now hit DAY 14 of rain in Glasgow, easily beating the 11 days of rain record when I moved up in 2009 (this is likely to reach 17 according to the forecast), and from all reports the grit and even the county sandstone have been little better. Apparently, scientifically, this is correlation and coincidence, not causation. My ARSE. Posting specific climbing desires angers the Weather Gods and they crush such dreams under their merciless storm fists.

So calling of the grit is wisely still up in the air, getting wet along with anything else out there. Calling of the plastic it is for the moment, andI've been training surprisingly enjoyably. Day 14 of rain may be a significantly repugnant record, Day 7 of training at TCA (spread over a few weeks) without getting pissed off, demoralised, weaker, injured, or having no skin left, is a more consolidatory record. I've tended to accept that coming out of a summer where I ended up climbing pretty damn well, I will be rubbish and weak indoors. Embracing this, I've been pottering around on weak problems for weak people, not worrying about pushing too hard, and generally felt okay. My main goals have been simple: Do fun problems so I enjoy training, and don't push too long so I trash my skin and soft tissue. Lower expectations, higher exceedence, and I've ended up feeling a bit of progression after a few sessions.

Now then, Calling Of The Spanish Limestone, anyone????



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Near hits.
Post by: comPiler on November 18, 2015, 01:00:16 am
Near hits. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2015/11/near-hits.html)
17 November 2015, 8:30 pm



I'm all too familiar with the concept with near misses. While I may not have them a lot - preferring to fail by wimping out due to dismaying cowardice, rather than pushing to nearer my limit - occasionally I try really hard, get really close, and only THEN fuck it up spectacularly. And the nearness of the miss provides even more angst than the other failures and thus lingers longer in the memory. Lying awake at night, still not quite believing that you didn't do something you so nearly did... "If I'd just caught the right bit of the hold"...."If I'd just got my foot a fraction higher"...."If I'd just held the barndoor a second longer". It's quite surreal, you can almost believe you DID do it, because you so almost did. And then you wake up from the daydream and FFS no you failed even though it was that close.

The other day I had a near hit, and that was *very* confusing. This was back in Pfalz, when there was dry weather and where there was dry rock, on a route called Man Spricht Teutsch at (wait for it) Schindharder Kuckucksfelsen. Yes really, that crag. This was graded 8-/8 and as such is the hardest route I've done in the Pfalz, the challenge highlight of the trip, and a very good multi-crux epic up an impressive wall. It wasn't, however, my favourite climb of the trip, not even the top 3, despite it's quality. Why not, when I usually relish tackling such challenges and succeeding on them??

Well in this case, it was very, very nearly not succeeding. I got through a tricky bit, then cranked and slapped through the apparent crux, rested my way up an easier headwall, wary of the final bulge that of course turned out to be the real hard bit. Sweating and cranking through sloping pockets, high foot rockover with the rope in the way, slap into a dish, start falling off, micro-thought about grabbing the draw, slap past it regardless, somehow fall on and stay on and get to the obligatory single ring bolt lower off. So close yet....so near?? I did it, yes, woohoo, etc. Except the nearness had me not quite believing I did. I stumbled around for a bit before being able to belay, almost believing I didn't do it, because I so almost didn't. And whilst I relish the challenge and the fight, it was too close for comfort to fully enjoy. Not that I want comfort, but maybe a bit less luck involved... Still I guess it makes up for some near misses.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: New Year 2016
Post by: comPiler on January 04, 2016, 07:00:17 pm
New Year 2016 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/01/new-year-2016.html)
4 January 2016, 2:41 pm



New Year's Goals / Resolutions:

1. Go climbing as much as possible outside of Scotland and outside of the UK.

That's it.

Nothing else to blog about as the weather has been permanently wet for over 2 months now. I've been doing a lot of training indoors, at the gym, and micro-runs when it's been merely damp. Despite this I'd put on 4kg weight before Xmas (after losing 2kg in Wales), and am now the heaviest I've ever been despite training 5+ days a week, the tightness of my harness yesterday indicates this is more fat than muscle. I'm not sure about my actual indoor climbing benchmarking though, I think it is maybe 1 grade below previous for bouldering and 2 grades below for routes (the latter might be being out of practice though).



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Ashes to Ashes.
Post by: comPiler on January 29, 2016, 01:00:07 pm
Ashes to Ashes. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/01/ashes-to-ashes.html)
29 January 2016, 12:52 pm



I went to Simon Davidson's funeral yesterday. It's very strange when people ask "how was it?", as if there is any sensible or appropriate answer to that question. "Yes, it was great, top funeral, would heartily recommend". Hmmm. I guess it was good insofar as saying goodbye and mourning the dead can be good. A lot of people came and several of them offered very appropriate and heartfelt tributes to his life - the introduction about his climbing skills in face of the inherent risk in the mountains was particularly well put. It was poignant for me personally seeing his coffin arrive in his latest dodgy van (a transporter, last seen when he and I were sitting together in the VW dealer in Llandudno Junction, discussing the imminent £800 repair bill), and his rope brought along (I was quite familiar being tied into that rope).

Simon wasn't a close friend, and it was more shocking then upsetting to hear he'd died, but we did do quite a lot of climbing together including several memorable trips, and looking over these has made me grateful and appreciative of what we did together...

An early visit to Weem where I started to master the walk-in and got to grips with the excellent slabs... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07/wee-bit-of-fun-at-weem.html)

A great visit to Skye on his birthday doing some superb sea-cliff routes... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/swift-strike-on-superb-skye.html)

A long day out seeking some dry Northumberlad rock in an otherwise dismal summer... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/close-call-at-callerhues.html)

A lovely long weekend on Mull with lots of varied climbing and superb scenery... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/mulltitude-of-mulling-on-mull.html)

An excellent Jubilee weekend which was rescued from an earlier van disaster and turned into a great trip... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/shivering-at-sheigra.html)

The usual semi-local dicking around at Balgone Heughs (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2014/05/taking-stock.html) , North Aberdeen (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/aberdeen-assault.html) and Weem again... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/wankshitting-hidden-holds-at-weem.html)

A memorable big walk-in big crack attack day out at Binnean Shuas (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2014/07/fatigue-frustration-fun.html) (last paragraph)...

A superb day doing my best routes at the mighty Creag Dubh (and a quick hit to Gairloch after)... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/challenge-11-12-colder-than-hookers.html)

And finally the last summer in Wales, we had a few great days spread out at Gogarth (he came to North Stack, lead some easier routes, belayed me on the route of my life The Long Run, and we celebrated with a curry in Bangor afterwards), The Moelwyns with Coel, and an action packed evening visit to Pen Trwyn after the van debacle. And finally the obligatory Pizza And Pint in Llanberis before I left.

 RIP Simon, cheers for all the days out.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fultonius on January 29, 2016, 09:46:10 pm
I never met him, but lots of my mates seem to have shared a route/DT comp/random day etc. with him. Always diffucult to go to the funeral in these situations. Somehow it's worse not knowing the circumstances - makes it harder to do the usual self-delusional "I would have done it differently" thing that many of us do.

Another life lived well, but cut short.

 
Title: Sharkathlete
Post by: comPiler on February 04, 2016, 01:00:17 am
Sharkathlete (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/02/sharkathlete.html)
3 February 2016, 8:44 pm



So apparently the month of January for a UKB-following punter goes a bit like this:

1 - 0

2 - indoor bouldering + short run

3 - indoor routes + short run

4 - 1.5 hours gym

5 - indoor bouldering

6 - 0

7 - indoor bouldering + short run

8 - 2 hours gym

9 - indoor bouldering

10 - 1.5 hours gym

11 - 20 min run

12 - 0

13 - indoor bouldering + 1 hour / 4 miles walk

14 - indoor routes + 35 mins / 2 mile walk

15 - 0

16 - 1.45 hours gym

17 - indoor auto-belay and bouldering

18 - 1.45 hours gym

19 - indoor bouldering

20 - 2.5 hours gym

21 - indoor routes

22 - 20 mins run

23 - 1+ hours gym

24 - indoor routes

25 - indoor routes

26 - 2 hours gym

27 - indoor routes

28 - 0

29 - 1+ hours gym

30 - 1 hour sport climbing

31 - several hours sport climbing + 2 x 20 mins tiring walking

Yup it's the sharkathon, in which the aim is to do at least 30 mins of exercise everyday, cut down on the booze, and ideally eat a bit healthier too. A well-meaning post-Xmas boost sort of thing. I'm taking the tick for it, for the few days I missed, there were enough double days to compensate. And yes I'm counting 20 min runs with DVTs as 30+ mins (conservative, they're actually more equivalent to 40 mins previously).

TBH this month wasn't exceptional for me this winter, I've been doing plenty of training, the week before Xmas was back2back indoor wall + run days with long gym sessions (pre-empting festive food and also training for my brother and I's traditional Xmas run - it worked, I did new PBs of 2.5 miles continuously twice this time!). But the sharkathon did encourage me to be a bit more consistent and aware of my exercise. I found that anything after a inactive day felt desperate, whilst most things after a lighter gym or wall session felt good (and obviously doms / sore fingers after a heavier session). By the end I managed to beat or equal all my gym / weights PBs, and do indoor routes and bouldering close to normal.

Weight-wise I started *before* Xmas at a repugnant 79-ish kg and was so appalled that I haven't dared look since then. I think the sharkathon definitely required a lot of burying-head-in-sand denial of current circumstances and lack of any short term gains whatsoever in the blissful hope that it will all be useful in the future, whenever that might be.

As a bonus I've got quite into 0,0% beers as a way to maximise the refreshment vs. indulgence balance. Most are too bland or too sweetly malted, but San Miguel 0,0 and Erdinger Wiessbeir low alcohol are good, whilst my favourite Sainsbury's Czech 0.5% clocks in at 87 calories / 500ml bottle compared to 5 times that amount for many normal lagers which is pretty reassuring.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Chulilla
Post by: comPiler on February 07, 2016, 01:00:10 pm
Chulilla (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/02/chulilla.html)
7 February 2016, 10:38 am



I went to the seemingly incredibly fashionable Chulilla recently. The UKB OAP massive were raving about it and even the Glasgow Grumpy Geriatric sport climbers have dragged themselves away from Upper Cave to go. That all seemed to happen before or over the festive period so it was pretty quiet when we went out. There's plenty of hype around: 40m mega-pitches, "sport climbing for trad climbers" with endless shake-outs and mini-cruxes, UK-style face climbing, people's best onsights etc etc. It's probably all true, I enjoyed it a lot anyway. All I can add is that it's all rather scenic too and the sinuous sheer-sided gorge is quite a dramatic surprise in otherwise unassuming countryside.

The weather looked like this: (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZcNaJnsNlpA/VrcY3H-pkrI/AAAAAAAABqI/LhRE3D0QzQ8/s400/sky.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZcNaJnsNlpA/VrcY3H-pkrI/AAAAAAAABqI/LhRE3D0QzQ8/s1600/sky.jpg)  And the wildlife looked like this: (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g4gr6COfjkw/VrcY9h9fZBI/AAAAAAAABqM/WVA6e5knvos/s400/perro.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g4gr6COfjkw/VrcY9h9fZBI/AAAAAAAABqM/WVA6e5knvos/s1600/perro.jpg)

Pro-tips (in addition to the common knowledge online):


Routes list / recommendations:

Sector Cuevas & Sector Penata:

La Caida Del Melon F6c - okay, bouldery start (soft).

Sindrome De Corbadia F6c+ - good and burly, neat line, bulge sates underused biceps.

Maquillaje Mental F6b+ - very nice, bloc start and endless pleasant steep slab. Shiney 35m lower off after best climbing.

(Amor Loco P1 F6b - described as a "satchel of wank", polished burly start (not F6a))

Crisis P1 F6b - good, interesting, start is a bit slopey and tricky

Smigol P1 F6c - great, cool veiny rock and continually interesting right to the chain.

Muro des Lamentaciones:

El Muro des Lamentaciones F7a - amazing, steep start then endless enthralling voyage up steep flakey slabs (soft).

Contacto En El Space F6c - great, very direct route, same steep start then continuously interesting but never desperate (not F6c+)

Yorkshire Pudding F6b - decent, varied, sting in the tail.

(Blue Agave F7a - good, mostly steady apart from one slopey pod section and awkward clip, avoid in warm)

El Ramallito F6c - good, steady then steepens up nicely for a great finish.

Nos Sobran Potxolos F7a - good, nice line, short with a fiercely crimpy crux.

Zikrutina Mientras Puedas F7a - decent, bouldery to start then nice short wall above (not F7a+).

(La Costa Nostra F6b+ - nice line, popular, described as good, techy and rounded)

El Oasis & Las Chorerras :

Top Of The Rock F7a - very cool, nice line, 3 boulder cruxes with good rests, steady if you focus (steady).

Richi F6c - decent but a bit unbalanced, grim start then more fun climbing (not F6b+, F6c for start).

(Nazgul F6c - very much the same)

(Olog-Hai F6c+ - good, cranky start into varied climbing and easier finish up nice wall)

Chamarilero F6c+ - very pleasant, steady start then escalates to techy finish past micro-tufa.

Orgia Sado En El Internado F7a? - good, several hard and very fingery cruxes up smooth walls, fierce (probably not F6c+, harder than F7as here)

Magnetorresistor F6b+ - good, worthy warm-up once past the "uk-style" slopey flakes low down, finish is very nice.

Plan Z F7a - very cool, lovely tufa wall, steady with thoughtful weaving moves and a great finish (soft).

Gargola P1 F6b - short but well worthwhile, thoughtful groove moves and not tiring.

Cantina Marina F7a - excellent, bouldery goey start leads to good moves leads to endless F6b into pure Kalymnos finish at 40m (soft, maybe F6c+).



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Moving Metal
Post by: comPiler on February 11, 2016, 07:00:06 pm
Moving Metal (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/02/moving-metal.html)
11 February 2016, 1:40 pm



No, not that sort of metal, although you can't beat a good bit of Bolt Thrower for motivation, so here is some:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QL19beIJSE0

Instead DO YOU EVEN LIFT BRO. I do a bit of lifting at the gym, because I have to go to the gym a fair bit due to the meticulously and precisely awful weather and the restricted exercise options I have. I lift weights very unseriously - it's just one part of general gymwork including warming up, doing climbing complementary exercises (pull-ups, lying body weight rows, inverted sit-ups, leg raises, leg presses), antagonistic exercises (ring press-ups, tricep presses, dips), stretching, shoulder stabilising (arm cycling), CV (recumbent cycling, rowing), and general conditioning (light compound lifts, renegade rows). I'm training for climbing and general strength fitness, not to be Eddie Hall (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arD6SgqqX10). On the other hand pushing really hard for short bursts is much more fun than the rest of the gym bollox and provides more motivation to keep going.

Current PBs:

160kg deadlift (2xBW) - done with wrist-straps last winter, done with liquid chalk this winter. That's the only two times, and it's hard enough. Can do 140kg without chalk, just.

100kg squat - done a few years ago and I thought it was going to snap me in half. Now quite regular and almost comfortable, but 100 is such a neat number I'm loathe to try any more.

80kg benchpress (BW) - a recent PB and really happy with this cos it's BW and a neat number. I felt I'd plateaued on 75 for a while, 77.5 seemed intangible and 80 unfeasible so it's nice to get it.

45kg bar shoulder press - possibly rubbish due to chronic shoulder impingement? Not really tried it much, will aim for 50 next.

20kg/arm military shoulder press - quite happy with this.

20kg/arm bicep curl - happy with this too, done it both simultaneously and alternate arms.

18 pull-ups - up from 17 last year and done with only barely passable style but at least not Crossfit pussy-up non-style. Now this is an interesting one as it's the most climbing-related and also the only one which is clearly worse than in previous decades - albeit with good reason. When I was at my lightest in 2006/7, I could do 20 pull-ups reasonably regularly. The current 18 felt like it's only going to be sporadically repeatable, but I reckon 16 would be reasonably regular. So now I'm nearly 20% heavier and can do 20% less pull-ups. Hmmmm. I guess I can take that as a draw??

I do need to add a few things to this:

Max weighted pull-ups - cos that's what it's all about!

Max weighted dips - another neat bw + x one to try.

Now you might be saying "this is why you're pushing 80kg Fiend, it's too much muscle mass". Except I actually do very little of these weights, going for heavier lifts once or twice a week, and I don't do much of similar exercises in a session. They're are done in small set/rep combos of 5, 5, 5/3, 3, 2/1. I.e. warming up generally with 2x5, then heavier with 2x3-ish, then going for a 1 or 2 rep max. This is in accordance with the general wisdom (from gym staff, many sites online, UKB advice from regular lifters) to do small sessions of high weights and low reps to train pure strength with less muscle gain, compared to 10-15 rep sets for muscle gain (conversely I've watched a few bodybuilder training videos to confirm I'm doing the opposite of bodybuilding). Finally I really doubt that having 2" extra around my waist and 1" extra around my thighs according to my indoor climbing harness is due to massive muscle gains from 40 heavy squats / 30 deadlifts + 60 leg raises per week. Having said that, if anyone can provide any wisdom to show how I could tweak my sessions to avoid muscle mass gain / encourage fat loss, I'd be interested.

In the meantime I'm off to find a way to see how I can add at least 20kg for pull-ups...

 

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Comfort Zonas
Post by: comPiler on February 24, 2016, 01:00:13 pm
Comfort Zonas (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/02/so-i-went-to-chulilla-and-punted-around.html)
24 February 2016, 10:10 am



So I went to Chulilla and punted around as usual. Actually despite having trained stamina over the course of exactly 1 week prior to the trip, I got it back quickly and did okay. I climbed 7 F7as, so I'm taking the F49g tick for that :). Most of these went smoothly, all that Culillan sport climbing for trad climbers bollox - I'm not bad at downclimbing to rests and shaking out into boredom. Numbers, schmumbers, whatever, they were all ace climbs so fuck you very much, ego. The point of all this is that Julie pointed out "You're doing these quite comfortably..." - I'd fallen off two 7as one due to heat and slopiness the other due to laziness - "...you should be trying harder things". She has a point, not because of the ever off-putting "should", but because I WANT to be climbing harder sport, I haven't pushed myself so much in that area and I'm enjoying doing harder moves on lead, slapping for holds and feeling able to go for it and risk falling off - sounds quite sport-suitable eh??

So on the last day I did. Despite it being 6th-ish day on I was still feeling good (El Altico's light dinners, wee drams of red wine and comfy beds no doubt), and went for a "mild at the grade" F7a+ - vertical face climbing with cranky positive moves between shakes, all in cool dry conditions, should be perfect for me. Needless to say I came nowhere near it, during the end of the crux sequence I just managed to clip a bolt before fingers uncurled in extremis. There was a slight user error that I'd climbed through the crux past the bolt and had to pause awkwardly to clip it, but pulling back on revealed sketchy and slopey moves to the top, I'd have had to be very lucky to have done it. Julie pissed it on top-rope despite being apparently too tired to climb anything. Whatever the strong midget.

Which made me think of my track record of F7a+s:

Success:

Axe Grinder, Creag Nan Cadhag - skin of teeth bouldering with bellowed encouragement from Tat himself. I was very pleased. Felt like a step up.

The One And Only, Brin - this might have gone down to hard 7a, whatever, tell that to someone who gives a shit. I was fully slapping for holds well above the bolt as I couldn't clip the one next to me. Soft but the experience was good.

Failure:

Puss 26, South Africa - I think this is the name, it was at some tufa-y limestone crag and it's the one I'm most gutted about as it was an amazing route up steep tufas and an animal related name. Far too pumped and maybe not confident enough.

Aphrodite, Kalymnos - too hard a bloc crux, not much to say really.

Alexis Zorbas, Kalymnos - sheer crozzly cranking and not a Kaly soft touch (which I generally didn't do there). Ridiculously close, fell re-adjusting on the pocket after the crux. Cue much swearing and tantrum. Thanks JadeL for collecting my shoes after. This one should have gone.

The Seer, Moy Rock - attempted after warming up on Hoy's South Face route a few days before. Fell off with fingers and feet tied in knots on small pebbles. Could have gone, but quite chancy.

Persistence Of Vision, Dumbarton - put off for years until I was climbing well. No chance really, it's just very tricky and fall-offable. Funny that, at Dumby...

High Pitched Scream, Weem - put off for years until I was climbing well. The guidebook description and occasional downgrade are both goatshit, it is nails. If I'd spent a month training specifically on the GCC and Ratho steep walls I might have stood a chance, maybe.

Sulaco, Pena Roja - see above.

Conclusion:

Okay I don't know what to conclude from that. Don't try Scottish ones as they are nails apart from the only 1 or 2 I've done are Scottish?? It all feels a bit like my approach to indoor problems and routes, the line between "finding this hard but can flash it" and "no fucking chance" seems a very slim one. I can usually do stuff in 1, 3, or 70 attempts. The edge of my comfort zone is a funny old place, I wonder if I need a passport and do they use Euros on the other side or just accept your soul as currency??



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on February 24, 2016, 01:25:33 pm
You mean Paws at Oudtshoorn? Only limestone crag I know of in SA.

If so it gets 7b in the topo!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 24, 2016, 07:40:19 pm
Paws, that's the one!! Good knowledge sir. A better cat related name than Puss anyway. I think it was 26 in the book but the 22 and 24 I did to warm-up were soft so I thought it was feasible. It was very close and with my current more comitted attitude I'd probably have got it (even though I was fit and fucking slim waaaay back then)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on February 25, 2016, 08:19:08 am
It is 26, which is on the cusp of 7a+/7b. I've not done it, but I most 26s usual end up on the 7b side (although my single 26 redpoint is probably only 7a+ :( )
Title: 0,0
Post by: comPiler on March 01, 2016, 01:00:09 pm
0,0 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/03/00.html)
1 March 2016, 10:33 am



For a change, not BIG NUMBERS (these days unfortunately they tend to be either the weights I lift or the weight I to carry around, rather than ego-hollowing climbing grades), but SMALL NUMBERS. As part of a general procedure to try to reduce the afore-mentioned and ever-increasing carry-on weight, I have got into zero / low-alcohol beers (low as in 0.5% max, not that weird 2% piss that some crap lager brands are doing). I like the taste and crisp refreshingness of beer and have 0,0 interest in the alcoholic effect. I also have 0,0 interest in the 500 calories per bottle a typical beer might have, and while the low alcohol beers never taste as good as their fuller fruitier counterparts (but not bad for a quick post-wall guzzle), they don't taste 5 times worse for those missing calories - my favourite Sainsbury's Czech clocks in at 86 calories for a large bottle. So they are a worthwhile addition to my beverage arsenal (along with the ever-favourite diet soda water...), and they might be for yours too. Here's my findings so far:

Good:

Sainsbury's Czech 0.5%

Good crisp taste and very low calorie

Erdinger Wiessbier 0.5%

Nice taste with mild wheatiness.

Okay:

Bavaria 0,0 Wheat beer

Much nicer than the normal Bav, quite wheaty

San Miguel 0,0

A classic, not much taste but palatable

Estrella Free Damm

A classic name, another light but okay one

Morrisons Saint Urquel

Quite light but not bad

Goat piss:

Bavaria 0,0

Too sweet and malty

Cobra 0%

Too sweet and malty

Becks Blue

No taste as you'd expect from a big brand

Need to test Brewdog's Nanny State which I'm sure will be good...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Falling Down on March 01, 2016, 10:25:55 pm
Good post Fiend.  I'll second the top two choices.  I have a few bottles in my fridge of both and will quite happily down a couple watching the footie at home.  They taste close enough to the real thing, the Erdinger especially and more pleasant than drinking a pint of soda water or sweetened diet drinks.
Title: Albarracin.
Post by: comPiler on March 03, 2016, 01:00:10 pm
Albarracin. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/03/albarracin.html)
3 March 2016, 11:11 am



Albarracin6b6c (https://vimeo.com/157124718)



Warning:
Contains 19 minutes of straight-up footage of 25 classic 6B-6C problems in reasonable definition (might load slowly) with a mellow dubstep soundtrack.

Not much to add. The village is very pretty, the weather was amazing apart from the last night/morning when it snowed and made an epic/scary rush to the airport. The boulders are plentiful despite the bird-banned sections, there are enough typical Spaniards with adventure mullets and dreadlocked dogs on string, but not as much crag crap everywhere as people said.

I didn't do anything super-hard (for me) on this trip, but I was pleased to get a lot of 6Cs flashed or quickly - there was too much choice to spend ages sieging stuff on a first visit. I'd happily go back for general exploration when the bird bans are off, or a more focused trip working some cool 7As I dabbled on.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: What you asked for...
Post by: comPiler on March 15, 2016, 01:00:21 am
What you asked for... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/03/what-you-asked-for.html)
14 March 2016, 7:03 pm



...an indepth description of all current drum and bass sub-genres, of course :). "It's just a load of clanking and banging" "It all sounds the same" etc etc YAWN. Basically drum and bass (evolving from jungle) has been around for 20+ years and has split into many different forms from stuff you could play to your gran to stuff you'd get arrested for if you played it to your gran. So someone needs to sort it all out and make a presentable list for the general public, and here it is.

This list assumes the reader knows the basic form of drum and bass i.e. complex breakbeats at a 170-ish bpm tempo (rather than straight repetitive drums like techno) combined with a prominent looped bassline. I've tried to use commonly accepted genre terms although there is much variation, many grey areas, and many artists dabbling in a lot of sub-genres (e.g. my knowledge of the minimal / halfstep / drumstep genres is vague, some artist examples are guesswork). I've also included tangential genres that are not true dnb, and some older no-longer-used genres for reference and context.

Abstract - a less rhythmically smooth form of dnb where the beats and sound effects can seem more jarring with a less obvious, but still usually present, groove, and a neutral vibe, somewhere between breakage and minimal. E.g. Clarity, Overlook, Blocks & Escher

Atmospheric - spacey effects and sparse haunting melodies, often with crisp jungle style breakbeats and mellow bass. E.g. DJ Fox, Acid Lab, Pixel

Breakage - very breakbeat-orientated often with sparse effects and variable bass. Often uses the classic amen breakbeat or more complicated breaks. E.g. Equinox, Paradox, Bizzy B

Breakcore - harder and often much faster tangent of drum and bass, with emphasis on breakbeats sometimes mixed with irreverent samples and heavy metal effects. Similar in intensity to skullstep but usually less industrial-sounding. E.g. Shitmat, Bong-Ra

Clownstep - derogatory term for modern jump-up/wobble when it was first introduced, particularly when said genres have very simplistic childlike basslines. E.g. DJ Clipz, Twisted Individual, Generation Dub

Crossbreed - tangential blend between harder drum and bass and gabber, usually at the standard 174bpm tempo, but with the drums switching between drum and bass breakbeats and straight gabber kickdrums, and aggressive vibes. E.g. Outside Agency, Hellfish, Thrasher

Dark - emphasises dark sounds and atmospheres, often with a deep droning bassline such as the "reece" bass. Breakbeats and melodies are more variable but generally support the dark atmosphere. E.g. Paragon, Cern, Stranjah

Deep - roughly between dark drum and bass and liquid funk, having some of the dark-ish atmospheres of dark, but with the smoother musical melodies of liquid funk (or the spacey atmospheres of atmospheric but with simpler beats). E.g. Response, Seba, Klute

Drumstep - slowed down tangential drum and bass similar to Minimal / Halfstep but with more prominent, if slower, beats, not necessarily at a dnb tempo. E.g. Om Unit, Amit

"Electrofunk" - my own term for the lighter and most funky neurofunk, usually distinctly less intense than neurofunk with quirky, sometimes "clicky" beats and a strong upbeat groove. E.g. Mefjus, Rockwell, Noisia, Lynx

Halfstep - minimal style of drum and bass, very similar to normal minimal but with distinctly stripped down beats at 1/2 or 1/3 of the 174bpm norm. E.g. Loxy And Resound, Kid Drama

Hard - harder end of pure drum and bass before it gets as industrial and mashed up as skullstep. Both beats and basslines are loud and occasionally distorted, and might have complex but conventional amen breakbeats. E.g. Technical Itch, Raiden, Dom & Roland

(Hardstep - depreciated term used in the 1990s to distinguish early harder drum and bass (preceding techstep / neurofunk / rolling) from prominent jungle / ragga jungle.)

(Intelligent - depreciated term used in the 1990s to distinguish early mellow drum and bass (preceding atmospheric / liquid) from jungle / hardstep.)

Jump-up (old) - semi-depreciated form of drum and bass that was very prominent in the 1990s with Mickey Finn, Aphrodite, Hype etc, featuring funky basslines and hip-hop samples and vibes. Rarely made any more but some artists favour the sound over modern jump-up. E.g. Bladerunner, SR & Digbee, Serial Killaz

Jump-up (new) - evolution of jump-up drum and bass following on from the clownstep era, with very brash, squeaky sound effects that often overwhelm traditional jump-up basslines. Breakbeats are sometimes simple but sometimes quite abstract similar to drumstep. E.g. Magistrate, Konichi, DJ Hazard

Jungle - modern interpretation of the classic mid-90s jungle sound, usually with similar reggae/dub influences and emphasis on breakbeats, but with higher quality modern production values. E.g. Digital, Spirit, Skitty

Liquid Funk (or just Liquid) - a very musical form of drum and bass with prominent melodies, recognisable instrumentation and a generally uplifting and accessible atmosphere, but less brash and "cheesy" than and Pop And Bass. E.g. High Contrast, Calibre, Dramatic & DB Audio

Minimal - stripped down drum and bass with sparse drums and subtle effects, but still with prominent, often smooth bass. E.g. D-Bridge, Stray, Sabre

Neurofunk - more cheerful, funky form of techstep, with similar strong beats and a sci-fi atmosphere but more prominent distorted but funky melodies, often with a "squelchy" sound. E.g. Agressor Bunx, Black Sun Empire, Maldini & Vegas

Old school - see Jump-up (old), also would refer to most standard older dnb / jungle.

Pop And Bass - tangential blend of drum and bass tempos, breakbeats and bass, with pop melodies, vocals and effects, usually relatively lightweight and radio-friendly even if made by normal dnb producers. E.g. DJ Fresh, Chase & Status, Sigma

Ragga Jungle - MC-driven jungle with prominent ragga vocals. Often defined by the vocalists involved while the music is usually an older-sounding mixture of jump-up and jungle with reggae influences. E.g. Top Cat, The Ragga Twins

Rolling - very standard, almost default, form of drum and bass with the emphasis on a distinct, funky, hypnotic bassline and a straightforward two step beat. E.g. S.P.Y., Need For Mirrors, Jubei, Genotype, Break

Ruff - see Hard / Breakage

Skullstep - an esoteric term for the hardest form of pure drum and bass, with hard loud beats that might be simple or more usually very mashed up (but still at 174bpm), and industrial sound effects E.g. Limewax, Cooh, Donny

Techstep - techno-influenced form of drum and bass with variable breakbeats and basslines but a strong emphasis on techno sound effects and a sci-fi atmosphere. Often fairly hard-hitting and less melodious, but not as noisy / industrial as skull-step / hard dnb E.g. Fierce, Zero Method, The Sect

Trance 'n' bass - rarely used but still suitable term for dnb with strong trance melodies and effects over normal dnb rhythms, somewhere between techstep and liquid funk, and quite uplifting but less cheesey that pop 'n' bass. E.g. John B (who coined the phrase), Ill Skillz

(Two-Step - depreciated term used in the 1990s to distinguish drum and bass with a simpler "two-step" breakbeat from dnb / jungle with a more complex amen breakbeat.)

Wobble - see Jump-Up (new)

Upfront - see Jump-Up (new)

Vocal - a generalised genre where the emphasis is on vocals (studio-recorded rather than live MCing) with drum and bass of whatever genre (usually rolling / deep / dark) playing a supporting role. Vocals are usually either rapping style or sung lyrical style and the artists are usually in collaboration with normal dnb producers.E.g. Robert Manos, DRS, MC Fats

...

As usual any questions or comments, send 'em in.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Discomfort zonas
Post by: comPiler on March 20, 2016, 01:00:10 pm
Discomfort zonas (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/03/discomfort-zonas.html)
20 March 2016, 12:12 pm



Margalef and surrounds - it was 50% great (climbing quality, weather, caravanning situation, and all else), and 50% rubbish (my actual climbing). I started off quite okay and consistently deteriorated through the trip to make it the worst trip away for my climbing I can recall - by the end my performance was even worse than during the mediocre rain + climbing with a couple & young kid double belay bitch duty + obnoxious overcrowding Eastern Europeans semi-climbing trip to Turkey a few winters back. Sure performance is not the be all and end all of a trip, but then again it is a climbing trip and I like the climbing challenge, and ending up so detached from that for no obvious reason felt inherently wrong. Especially since with the best intentions...

Following on from my previous trip and related post, as well as sampling the climbing i.e. pockets, I wanted to try a bit harder and maybe sport climb a bit harder. In that context it must be said that Margalef: 1. Has some of the worst grading of any sport climbing venue I've visited - I can scarcely recall two routes of the same grade that were actually the same standard, apart from a few that were wrong on the same direction. And: 2. Is utterly rubbish for pushing your onsighting, with most routes involving being lost at sea of pockets, the easier routes I was on having more pockets and thus more confusion, and being less steep thus less chalky hints to avoid the shoal of grey and orange herrings.

On the plus side the climbing is really cool. I scraped up a few soft F7as, a few almost accurate F6c+s, and various piss/nails F6cs before even that started feeling less likely... So you don't get a ticklist, but the following list would have been a great one if I'd actually done it. Or most. Or any...

List of fucking shite:

1. Action Man F6c - entirely morpho (7a) crux that I tried repeatedly before falling off an off-balance slap to a duo that tall climbers could reach on a ledge.

2. Coraje Al Forao F7a+ - tried really fucking hard on a thin slab start, fell off just before a ledge with fingers so numb I had a few minutes of full hot-aches before I could start threading a ring bolt.

3. Ingravitus F7a - muffed a hand swap on a bucket at the first bolt partly because I was so shakey and unfocused after the above debacle.

4. Baby Siter F7a - tried really fucking hard on a pumpy head-wall with a sea of blind pockets. Slightly warm and slapping for nothing and fell off.

5. Talo Dret F7a (Montsant) - committed well into a very steep groove and ran out of reachable holds and strength.

6. La Estampa F7a+ - tried pretty hard and completely powered out trying to reach holds.

7. Garotina F7a - tried really fucking hard on various cruxes and came off 3 holds from the chain on a pumpy bulge, partly sweaty due to no breeze.

8. ??? F7a (Oliana) - committed well and ended up with too thin holds and no strength to pull on them.

9. ??? F7a (Oliana) - very morpho crux that I found too hard slapping to an out-of-reach duo rather than being able to reach it from footholds.

10. Massagran F6c+ (La Riba) - tried really fucking hard on the crux and ended up following unspeakably bad beta in the guidebook photo and wrong handed too far from next holds.

11. Uf Va Dir Ell F6b+ (Montsant) - tried to warm-up on this after cruising the walk-in and feeling fresh and perky, got to a bulge on less positive pockets and just powered out.

12. En Penitence F6c (Vilanova De Prades) - missed a completely hidden one pad mono.

13. Leidi Laura F7a (Vilanova De Prades) - mis-read the start, foolishly committed to the wrong sequence and fell off rubbish slopers.

Yup, that's a lot. And it gets pretty fucking boring trying hard and trying hard again and failing relentlessly and not getting any positive reinforcements for the effort.

So what the fucking hell went wrong??


Yes there were some issues with grades and blind pocket climbing but that wasn't the only things I was struggling with. Extrapolate for a further month and I'd be struggling to climb the stairs and there ain't no fucking duos on them. *I* was the problem and I don't even know how?? I've had enough times being hampered by injury and illness and conditions and tiredness and whatever, but sitting at the bottom of Montsant feeling fresh and perky in fresh and perky conditions beneath a wall of dream routes at my usual standard and not being able to get on them for no reason was a real WTF moment.

So. Answers on a postcard, and if any of them are the right answers I'll refund the postage.

Edit:

Thought of a couple of things:


Hmmm.

...

Okay that is a lot of moaning. Sorry / not sorry at all, I need to get it out of my system and writing through it can bring up useful ideas.

BUT, on the other hand, the routes I actually did were all really good. A lot of beautiful, characterful rock, a lot of fun and fascinating pocket-pulling, a lot of decently challenging routes at lower grades. Funnily enough my first sport trip away was to Sierra De Prades (camping in February would you believe it, ice on the tents in the morning, WTF were we thinking??), and I haven't revisited it since apart from a singular Siurana sojourn a few years back (partly due to the inferior Rockfax guide although at least they had the right fucking sequence photoed for Massagran). With Catalunya Climbs: Tarragona and exploration of some new areas, I still remained psyched with the area despite being unpsyched with my punterdom and am actually rather keen to go back. So that is some sort of positive result...



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: seankenny on March 20, 2016, 07:26:14 pm
Did you try redpointing any of those routes or were they all on-sight efforts? I find Margalef almost impossible to o/s at my normal level but it's much more a matter of fitness once you know the moves, as they aren't so technical (at least the ones I've done).
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 21, 2016, 10:02:09 am
Hi Sean. No I didn't, I probably wouldn't be redpointing at that level (my usual OS level) as there would be almost no working out - quick find of crux holds and then done. I didn't try anything harder to redpoint either.

Also redpointing is bollox ;).

I would have dropped my o/s standard a bit except that the few 7as I did do felt really steady, if I'd been doing 6cs graded in comparison to them I'd have found them too easy. Of course, some of the 6cs I did do were nails - Bloque Del Porque I'm looking at you!!
Title: Summing up the trip...
Post by: comPiler on March 21, 2016, 07:00:11 pm
Summing up the trip... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/03/summing-up-trip.html)
21 March 2016, 2:41 pm



...in one particular event.

La Riba - new crag, new excitement. A fresh change from Margalef pocket-pulling and loads of choice. This was it, this was the time, the place, to overturn the previous day's debacles, get on and crush. I hit the ground running (well, hobbling, it's a bit uphill and rocky) and got on Directa Reus to start. 15m 6b+ into 15m 6b+, gets 6c for the combo but it's got a comfy rest in the middle. No problemo! I boulder out the start, the pockets are sparser but bigger than Margalef. Good rest on the ledge then up steep jugs that run out so I swerve left via a mono into the crux layback, a bit committing but good stuff. Swing feet over, up to a good spike jug in a pocket by the next bolt, and....

...

..

.

BEES.

Yes, bees. They start swarming out of the pocket. My mind doesn't think "quick, jump off to the last bolt", it thinks "quick, clip the next bolt and lower off", which of course allows the bees enough time to assume attack formation. I'm shrieking at PJ "LOWER, LOWER, FUCKING QUICKLY!" as I ride to the ground, trailing bees from my vest, swirling arms, goatee, and face... A furious battering dance (thank fuck gabber clubs are good training for this) and several stings later and I'm sat on the ground shaking. I get PJ to pull several stings out and lounge around with a dull ache throbbing around me, before I relax enough to fail on other routes for entirely bee-irrelevant reasons. I still have bruised scabs on my head and shoulders, and now I have an edited guidebook too...

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_Zo01Fqs4F4/Vu_9AYC4MRI/AAAAAAAABt4/_D0-lqXM2x8cZ6E28y5xzXhzRjD8IlF4w/s400/bees.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_Zo01Fqs4F4/Vu_9AYC4MRI/AAAAAAAABt4/_D0-lqXM2x8cZ6E28y5xzXhzRjD8IlF4w/s1600/bees.jpg)I presume this will be features "as is" in any reprint...

On that subject, more photos:

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f6tJXR1feak/Vu_-e3VZVLI/AAAAAAAABuU/U8iPbwAUpJk1ul8TLx68bGq_SltgreJKA/s400/dug.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f6tJXR1feak/Vu_-e3VZVLI/AAAAAAAABuU/U8iPbwAUpJk1ul8TLx68bGq_SltgreJKA/s1600/dug.jpg)Other wildlife was more amenable, especially if I was prepared to throw random stones for it. This persistent pooch cheered me up at Oliana after I had a massive strop failing on another F7a there. Furious doesn't even come close. I felt an extra dick afterwards because Sharma, Graham and Woods were further down repeating 9a+s and working on futuristic projects (i.e. the thing just right of La Dura Dura....incidentally it's surprising just how low the crux is on LDD, it's about 1/6th the way up the whole route). These are guys I respect not just for their world class ability but also their seemingly ever-positive and psyched vibes, something I try to have at 15 grades lower - and definitely didn't that day.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j0wj0rlgeLY/Vu_-afosZOI/AAAAAAAABuI/GCrqr87lzPoPWS91wDplDuQG4K19_tmEA/s400/DSCN0198a.jpeg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j0wj0rlgeLY/Vu_-afosZOI/AAAAAAAABuI/GCrqr87lzPoPWS91wDplDuQG4K19_tmEA/s1600/DSCN0198a.jpeg)Huevo Roca! There were many more huevos going on every morning in the caravan. PJ lives off them and I can see the logic in that. I'm not so used to eggs every single day and did wonder if a slightly different diet affected my performance. Probably not.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iTp13zaNl8c/Vu_-UzRZI8I/AAAAAAAABuE/fMszHEvpMU4-Y8K9c1tfw51qBYWjYws3g/s320/DSCN0197a.jpeg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iTp13zaNl8c/Vu_-UzRZI8I/AAAAAAAABuE/fMszHEvpMU4-Y8K9c1tfw51qBYWjYws3g/s1600/DSCN0197a.jpeg)Rochas without the huevos. Directly below the left edge of the right hand boulder is an epic 30m 7a I fell off, boxed, after trying my best. Cunts.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h2-OsnBWaJU/Vu_-Tr-XcVI/AAAAAAAABuA/PHCnMi0FQQIXgQGglLD4rbxpeSRPQnoFA/s320/DSCN0200a.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h2-OsnBWaJU/Vu_-Tr-XcVI/AAAAAAAABuA/PHCnMi0FQQIXgQGglLD4rbxpeSRPQnoFA/s1600/DSCN0200a.jpg)Good view from the caravan although the view of the woodburning stove with an entirely unsupported flue pipe soaring about 6m across the campsite bar was also good at this time of night.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1RDgyZcDxDg/Vu_-c49XIyI/AAAAAAAABuM/PT0us1NXJ5I-0rMUOuyatvOYg1z88gMDQ/s320/DSCN0207a.jpeg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1RDgyZcDxDg/Vu_-c49XIyI/AAAAAAAABuM/PT0us1NXJ5I-0rMUOuyatvOYg1z88gMDQ/s1600/DSCN0207a.jpeg)The send train. Note that I am not part of it.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CM4IDO0coIA/Vu_-dGSva9I/AAAAAAAABuQ/Te7u1775DAQ9l0ZiYierxWQ091VMFPJ2g/s320/DSCN0208a.jpeg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CM4IDO0coIA/Vu_-dGSva9I/AAAAAAAABuQ/Te7u1775DAQ9l0ZiYierxWQ091VMFPJ2g/s1600/DSCN0208a.jpeg)View from Montsant. I'll be back. I've got at least a summer to work out how the fuck to climb.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BLlJiiwTRWs/Vu_-fdMpR8I/AAAAAAAABuY/1hHTPHSrlucnptm1JupKt9GIFUGi5fnEA/s320/DSCN0209a.jpeg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BLlJiiwTRWs/Vu_-fdMpR8I/AAAAAAAABuY/1hHTPHSrlucnptm1JupKt9GIFUGi5fnEA/s1600/DSCN0209a.jpeg) Micro-conglomerate at Vilanova De Prades. These pebbles would make rubbish holds as they are just a couple of mm wide...."I had to sprag on a quark" and all that ;)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Beginner's Mind.
Post by: comPiler on April 28, 2016, 07:00:07 pm
Beginner's Mind. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/04/beginners-mind.html)
28 April 2016, 2:43 pm



Long time no blog. A relief I'm sure. I could pretend that after punting spectacularly in Spain I'd made a sensible tactical decision to let my mind, body, and now-recurring golfer's elbow to heal, ready for a steady and fresh progression up to full fitness and psyche. Well it was half that and half demoralisation and depression which is never the ideal mindstate for a dedicated climber. I don't need to write any more about that and you don't need to read it. Suffice to say I dipped down enough to realise that progression back would be slow and tentative not steady and fresh, but this did come with the realisation to actually take it slow.....some wisdom has been gained from years battling this shit.

Thus, hopefully, beginner's mind. Accepting I will be initially shit but assuming that all the winter's training and last year's mileage will be lurking and give some latent potential. So I went down to TCA and bumbled around on the circuit wall (how come I did the yellow within a couple of sessions, but now can't get past 33-35 no matter how good I feel? Pffft), and then more importantly went down to Yorkshire lime and bumbled around on trad and sport. Amongst other things I cruised Prime Cut which I'd somehow backed off last year in a fit of sore feet and fiddly gear. So apparently I'm better at Giggleswick E2 than I was this time last year - SICK DUDE.

Anyway...5 days mileage at various crags, I felt a bit weak and a bit awkward having to place protection from bad positions, but other than that I felt reassuringly natural, despite it being the first time on UK rock since Oc-fucking-tober. I think I still have a certain "go for it" vibe in my mind following last year's trad, which shows promise as long as the body catches up. I also really enjoyed what I was doing despite UK inland limestone being my least favourite rock. Actually having fun - yup that's a good idea.

Of course this cruisey start to the trad season has skidded to an icy halt - I went down to TCA in a snowstorm yesterday, and I'll be going to Ratho in a snowstorm today. Still, I need to train and if I didn't lose my trad nouse after 5 months I shouldn't lose it after 5....days....weeks?? Let's hope it's not that fucking long.

Also being out and about on UK rock does have some additional benefits:

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6IoJ3S5ep-g/VyITErITSXI/AAAAAAAABus/kg0FMndEbkI-QmzbpQYwKoF_l0WHlUJjQCLcB/s400/ingle2.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6IoJ3S5ep-g/VyITErITSXI/AAAAAAAABus/kg0FMndEbkI-QmzbpQYwKoF_l0WHlUJjQCLcB/s1600/ingle2.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: A tale of two Thursdays.
Post by: comPiler on May 09, 2016, 07:00:09 pm
A tale of two Thursdays. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/05/a-tale-of-two-thursdays.html)
9 May 2016, 6:24 pm

Thursday evening.

I'm sitting comfortably in the car, keeping warm with the heater on, relaxing on the way back from Ratho. It's 1'c and snowing gently over the Harthill summit.

Thursday evening.

I'm lying comfortably on the ropebag, keeping cool in the shade, recovering from the dizzying heat at Helsby. It's 20'c and too hot to climb in the afternoon sun.

What a difference a week can make eh. I don't even need to moan about the weather for this one. Except it got too hot, yes too hot. I thought Helsby was a shady crag from my previous visit nearly a decade ago, well I've learnt something useful. I also thought it looked greener than ever, but that fooled me too, close-up it was almost all fine. In fact one of the greenest "good" routes there - Wafer Wall, just above the site of my emergency power-nap - was absolutely fine without any prior cleaning. This was a small, humourous ghost laid to rest as I'd trying to solo it on that prior visit and had to be rescued once standing above the "this break has some fiddly gear in but I won't bother to reverse and get a rope and rack, I'll just press on" section. All fairly silly and it went nicely as a lead. I must confess the previous evening I had a bit of a wobbler on the top of Angel's Face....I think I prefer a rack and rope at Helsby ;)

All of this was inspired by two things. Firstly, a proper new guidebook that I've been long overdue getting - as always with new BMC guides the combination of exhaustive information, rich character and an accessible design provide immediate inspiration to an area that had gone off my radar. Just how proper this is was highlighted to me by going on to UKC to check the databases out of very idle curiosity, to find that the annoyingly uneditable Rockfax grades / descriptions were all-too-commonly wrong. Sigh.

Secondly a somewhat more sombre scenario - I was down in the Helsby area for the funeral of my recently-deceased Uncle Fred, a very decent and honourable man and a near-legendary model-maker, whom along with his son Steve (of Steve Webb Model And Hobbies) inspired me into model-making in my youth and was thus responsible for me getting into painting toy soldiers, which has possibly taken a grade off my climbing but kept me sane during some miserable winters. Funerals are like buses, you (don't) wait a few decades for one and then two come along this year. Hopefully this will be the last for a while. I read a speech in tribute to his model-making hobby and my immediate family seemed to be a positive presence to his immediate family. After this I stuck around for a life-affirming evening at Helsby, got scared:

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dNozBWfhM-o/VzDFQoMrDUI/AAAAAAAABvU/6NM2I_nTMBklp8JK9uIHZcf5vDup3_2IgCLcB/s400/DSCN0009b.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dNozBWfhM-o/VzDFQoMrDUI/AAAAAAAABvU/6NM2I_nTMBklp8JK9uIHZcf5vDup3_2IgCLcB/s1600/DSCN0009b.jpg)

And witnessed a nice view over Liverpool:

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jbvTw405dCI/VzDF7O_wjoI/AAAAAAAABvg/-hDXbcBxBMU944BzRCeo5qX9t5tV938tQCLcB/s400/DSCN0001a.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jbvTw405dCI/VzDF7O_wjoI/AAAAAAAABvg/-hDXbcBxBMU944BzRCeo5qX9t5tV938tQCLcB/s1600/DSCN0001a.jpg)

Then there was Thursday of heatstroke and not doing the massive amount of E3 mileage I had planned from browsing the guide, that will have to wait for another time. Then it was a dash over to Meirionydd for the first Rhinnogau session of the year with The Pylon King, and the first new route too:

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BkP5hytbEBA/VzDGb3_8BKI/AAAAAAAABvk/_CdasNiAJE0KWEQuDq6G00b9WE-cV430ACLcB/s400/fiend_base1.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BkP5hytbEBA/VzDGb3_8BKI/AAAAAAAABvk/_CdasNiAJE0KWEQuDq6G00b9WE-cV430ACLcB/s1600/fiend_base1.jpg)

And finally a sweaty stop-off en-route at Harmer's Wood:

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QZEuSZ_lhOc/VzDHJEQmTbI/AAAAAAAABvs/TtwFtgyI3qshgKZCtxeUqDDV7noRuGE3wCLcB/s400/fiend_harm1.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QZEuSZ_lhOc/VzDHJEQmTbI/AAAAAAAABvs/TtwFtgyI3qshgKZCtxeUqDDV7noRuGE3wCLcB/s1600/fiend_harm1.jpg)

Just waiting for it to cool down a bit and hopefully I can put some of my psyche and mileage into action, preferably as far away from Glasgow as possible.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Falling Down on May 09, 2016, 09:24:06 pm
Good on ya Matt...
Title: A bit like this.
Post by: comPiler on May 21, 2016, 01:00:10 pm
A bit like this. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/05/a-bit-like-this.html)
21 May 2016, 11:52 am



Summer 2015:

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--jBZOFLLB-g/V0A9ERTNbxI/AAAAAAAABwg/OSGgmnXxBakSZ4q_90HKyEI_1yEYtVLFwCLcB/s400/fiend_obverse.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--jBZOFLLB-g/V0A9ERTNbxI/AAAAAAAABwg/OSGgmnXxBakSZ4q_90HKyEI_1yEYtVLFwCLcB/s1600/fiend_obverse.jpg)

Summer 2016:

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GFoyq6B218w/V0A9OhQPccI/AAAAAAAABwk/aZQNz2rQ57IVQmd_QAhY4AwIa5kCQyTcQCLcB/s400/bringthefunk.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GFoyq6B218w/V0A9OhQPccI/AAAAAAAABwk/aZQNz2rQ57IVQmd_QAhY4AwIa5kCQyTcQCLcB/s1600/bringthefunk.jpg)

Both E2 5c, the 2nd one is quite a bit better tho.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: And also a bit like this:
Post by: comPiler on June 08, 2016, 01:00:06 pm
And also a bit like this: (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/06/its-been-bit-like-this.html)
8 June 2016, 11:26 am



(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C2OKKRmWUAk/V1fx8-E7Y1I/AAAAAAAAByY/2HBi9YclBnECNM6dwMGu6QO2sKBR1pGpgCLcB/s400/llynbwchan.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C2OKKRmWUAk/V1fx8-E7Y1I/AAAAAAAAByY/2HBi9YclBnECNM6dwMGu6QO2sKBR1pGpgCLcB/s1600/llynbwchan.jpg)

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ghCCDDxyelU/V1fx7HicVvI/AAAAAAAAByQ/ItS5NIWxApYzoAwdom-ONBg_HD_ECabeQCLcB/s400/field.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ghCCDDxyelU/V1fx7HicVvI/AAAAAAAAByQ/ItS5NIWxApYzoAwdom-ONBg_HD_ECabeQCLcB/s1600/field.jpg)

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c0dOI0imosE/V1fxqZPPPjI/AAAAAAAABx8/vaqhxTs0dOE_YJEANNzA6FunO5Rjy81wACLcB/s400/fiend_rope.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c0dOI0imosE/V1fxqZPPPjI/AAAAAAAABx8/vaqhxTs0dOE_YJEANNzA6FunO5Rjy81wACLcB/s1600/fiend_rope.jpg)

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gvClVVv3kBQ/V1fxq3MA6UI/AAAAAAAAByA/xmkxIn9y2NYJYCSehoCbooICPmnGfcEKwCLcB/s400/complete.JPG) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gvClVVv3kBQ/V1fxq3MA6UI/AAAAAAAAByA/xmkxIn9y2NYJYCSehoCbooICPmnGfcEKwCLcB/s1600/complete.JPG)

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eozlV4Qf-DM/V1fx6uBYiQI/AAAAAAAAByM/HsO98envTwMDnXkNACJ6mXLPTCLuvdVKQCLcB/s400/bardsey2.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eozlV4Qf-DM/V1fx6uBYiQI/AAAAAAAAByM/HsO98envTwMDnXkNACJ6mXLPTCLuvdVKQCLcB/s1600/bardsey2.jpg)

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z5jszsiWbB0/V1fx9O45xxI/AAAAAAAAByc/tdUk4VN3EOAQc5GPAlcXoe3XO0rC8TdDQCLcB/s400/cemetery1.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z5jszsiWbB0/V1fx9O45xxI/AAAAAAAAByc/tdUk4VN3EOAQc5GPAlcXoe3XO0rC8TdDQCLcB/s1600/cemetery1.jpg)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 08, 2016, 02:30:32 pm
I was at least expecting a pic like this

(http://i64.tinypic.com/29v11rs.jpg)
Title: Climbers with tops off at indoors wall...
Post by: comPiler on June 15, 2016, 07:00:05 pm
Climbers with tops off at indoors wall... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/06/climbers-with-tops-off-at-indoors-wall.html)
15 June 2016, 1:23 pm



...and how you can cope with it.

To start, this is not an indoor wall, but it is NED:

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TsnGrKBltDY/V13GCAqLwaI/AAAAAAAABy0/hpCKePiLnZoZt_ygrDnhuy-duv1BchTGgCLcB/s400/268321.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TsnGrKBltDY/V13GCAqLwaI/AAAAAAAABy0/hpCKePiLnZoZt_ygrDnhuy-duv1BchTGgCLcB/s1600/268321.jpg)

Ned is climbing outside, at night, in December (this is likely to be a lot cooler than a typical indoor wall in summer)....with his shirt off. Why is Ned doing this?? To provoke a bunch of punters on UKC into a debate about the fiction of friction?? To bait a jobsworth Fontainbleausard into banning him from La Foret if he persists with such indecent attire??

No, Ned is doing it for the same reason many of us climb with minimal attire: Because he wants to minimise any possible sweating and maximise any possible friction (and maybe reduce a tiny bit of weight and inhibition from a t-shirt) - yes, even at night, in December - and thus climb more effectively right at his limit.

Because Ned knows exactly what the fuck he is doing. If you DON'T know exactly what the fuck you are doing, fair enough, but don't spout your opinions or make knee-jerk rules based on ignorance.

Instead, try the following to deal with the so-called "issue"...

For wall managers / staff:

If people are climbing at your wall with their shirt off, it's for the same reason that they would be climbing in vest tops or sports bras or shorts - because the wall is warm, they are sweaty, and then are trying to reduce that to train more effectively. It is an athletic training environment with a high emphasis on grip and contact strength, and minimal clothing reflects that.

Those people are paying customers who are wanting to train. Obviously you can't provide perfect conditions with immaculate air con in summer and infallible heaters in winter, but you CAN accept that people might need a bit of leeway with climbing attire to make the most out of conditions.

If other customers complain that they feel "uncomfortable" with someone else climbing with their top off, ask them WHY they feel uncomfortable. Uncomfortable in itself isn't a reason, there must be something behind it. Eroticism? Jealousy? Disgust at sweaty torsos? General prudishness? Most of these are fairly shallow reasons, not as weighty as a genuine physical reason of sweating off holds, and thus not worth impinging on a climber's use of your facility. If there's an actual genuine reason, it's likely due to behaviour, thus...

If you have a problem with macho and boisterous behaviour from people with their shirts off, then you have a problem with macho and boisterous behaviour - tackle THAT. People can act like dicks in just a pair of shorts or in a full £800 Arcteryx outer shell. Don't pin the blame on clothing, tackle people's attitudes instead - ask people to reduce shouting and swearing, to be courteous to other people climbing and hanging out, to avoid getting in peoples' ways etc, and you'll find that people can be polite and respectful irrespective of what they're wearing.

In short, COMMUNICATE with customers on both sides. And remember that a rule without reasons is an unreasonable rule.

If parents complain that it offends the perceived delicate and fragile sensibilities of their children, refer them to the advice in the section below (feel free to print it out).

For critics on internet forums:

If you don't understand why people are climbing with their shirts off at a wall, ASK. People will often give good explanations of conditions-related questions (e.g. climbing grit in winter, shoe friction, reduced sweating etc) and they are likely to give the correct explanation as above.

If you want to try any of the following non-arguments, think a bit more about them:

"But you don't really need to, it's not that warm"
Hey here's some fucking news for you: People sweat when they exert themselves, and some people sweat a lot more than others. Sweating reduces friction and grip on holds and makes training less effective (and less enjoyable). If you don't sweat that much and can climb through summer in a downie, good for you. Medal is in the post / bin. But try to use your fucking brain and realise that other people might sweat a lot more than you, and might need to reduce that sweating a lot more than you do. If you're too ignorant to understand that, turn your computer off and throw your keyboard away.

"But you wouldn't have your shirt off at a gym"
No shit, that's because firstly at a gym you are sitting / lying on lots of equipment and thus would get sweat all over it, and secondly almost no exercises at the gym rely on hand friction (even deadlifts or lat pull downs are on rungs) so there is no need to go shirtless.

"But girls aren't allowed to climb with their tops off"
No shit, that's just the way the current status quo on general public decency is. Boobs are still regarded as somewhat private / taboo / sexual / whatever, and first world social norms are that they are generally covered in public, along with genitalia and buttocks. Sobeit. If you have any socio-philosophical issues that boobs should be entirely public or male torsos should be equally private, sort it out elsewhere, change the whole society's views, then get back to the climbing community only when that's done. Also note that girls can wear sports bras as minimal decent upper torso attire, going along with the minimal sweating purpose.

"But.....nipples"
Oh fuck off.

For parents complaining that shirtless climbers are intimidating their offspring:

Get a fucking grip. If you've failed so dismally in raising your little shits that they somehow view a male torso as indecent, then you never should have spawned in the first place. Unfortunately it's too late now, but at least you can shut the fuck up and not whine to wall staff about it. Instead, take a long hard look at yourself and your parenting skills - and try to work out how the hell you're going to cope when your grubs go to a swimming pool.

...

Finally, some anecdotes.

I train with my shirt off regularly indoors (apart from in winter, I wear a skimpy vest then), because I sweat a lot, I find that sweating reduces my training effectiveness and enjoyment a lot, and I need to minimiseit (yes I keep repeating this, but despite being so bloody obvious people still are determined not to get it). I use liquid chalk and normal chalk and brush holds regularly and let my skin recover in between attempts and ask the staff to turn fans on if there are any. I also grunt and strain and occasionally shout with exertion.

I also don't show off and pose and flex and do any macho bullshit - I'm slightly overweight and wearing compression stockings FFS. And I talk politely and affably to people in general. When I've been at TCA climbing shirtless....

I've been chatting to one of the youth girls trying to get beta for a comp wall problem (youth girls is about the level I can manage usually!) and asking politely if I can try the same problem as it had inspired me - NO PROBLEM.

I've been refilling my chalkbag at the end of the wall, and ended up sitting, sweaty and shirtless, chatting to a very elderly lady who was accompanying her grandchildren and was wondering what the chalk was for and didn't seem to care less what I was wearing - NO PROBLEM.

I've been jumping down off a problem when a tiny girl ran around the corner and almost hit me, we both stared a bit shocked, and I smiled down at her and said "Oooops sorry" out of courtesy before she trotted off wide-eyed - NO PROBLEM.

Add in a few hundred casual chats to other climbers and occasional non-climbers - NO PROBLEM.

The moral being: If a provocative arse like myself can both an efficient shirtless climber and a civil human being, then maybe that's another small indication - along with common fucking sense - to not have any draconian restrictions or moronic criticisms of climbing with shirts off indoors.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: rodma on June 15, 2016, 09:56:20 pm
Hehe. Good rant

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 15, 2016, 10:38:49 pm
Can I print that off and pin it on the wall at work?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Curious Holes and Horrible Vistas.
Post by: comPiler on July 02, 2016, 01:00:05 pm
Curious Holes and Horrible Vistas. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/07/curious-holes-and-horrible-vistas.html)
2 July 2016, 12:05 pm



So yeah I'm down in Bristol for a bit, specifically to climb in Cornwall, Devon, and North Pembroke. Have I got out to those majestic and diverse sea-cliff paradises?? Have I fuck. I've got sucked into the local limestone choss bollox. I blame the Pylon King, but I also blame the weather, the shambolic organisation of PK's 2nd in command Sgt Stannerz, and myself. Oh and that actually with a fresh perspective and recent renovations, some of that local bollox is actually quite good. I mean limestone is shit, UK limestone is particularly shit, UK inland limestone is the ultimate in shit. But fuck me I've even enjoyed Cheddar sport climbing in the last week - as well as a host of other venues from the mighty Avon to the mighty Woodlane Quarry....

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EjM-gydfwmw/V3eXco48onI/AAAAAAAABzc/duLopFmPad873Z_djWireDrbQM0A4GGPgCLcB/s400/fiend_crem2.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EjM-gydfwmw/V3eXco48onI/AAAAAAAABzc/duLopFmPad873Z_djWireDrbQM0A4GGPgCLcB/s1600/fiend_crem2.jpg)

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5vXKPLBHTe0/V3eXc80tBRI/AAAAAAAABzg/ozPyrn0f0F0dfxZyDkOhKmBeWPPjiZOcwCLcB/s400/fiend_crem3.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5vXKPLBHTe0/V3eXc80tBRI/AAAAAAAABzg/ozPyrn0f0F0dfxZyDkOhKmBeWPPjiZOcwCLcB/s1600/fiend_crem3.jpg)

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2UZxLmrmu2A/V3eXiFRlLOI/AAAAAAAABzk/CYjwUnyVFQ45q84TB37XDhxgiAZstvnpQCLcB/s400/fiend_wood1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2UZxLmrmu2A/V3eXiFRlLOI/AAAAAAAABzk/CYjwUnyVFQ45q84TB37XDhxgiAZstvnpQCLcB/s1600/fiend_wood1.jpg)

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JQYeJQuYlqM/V3eXlDXQrOI/AAAAAAAABzo/FjXY7Tx5ZVMrtAfp5v0Gaqh87N_-Nc-EACLcB/s400/fiend_wood3.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JQYeJQuYlqM/V3eXlDXQrOI/AAAAAAAABzo/FjXY7Tx5ZVMrtAfp5v0Gaqh87N_-Nc-EACLcB/s1600/fiend_wood3.jpg)

Funnily enough this is a very old stomping ground for me. Learning to climb at school, and later on regularly visiting a mate at Bath uni, I'd semi-regularly potter around these curious holes with their horrible vistas, although a combination of inexperience and inexplicable issues meant I ended up leading a few HVS/E1s and soloing too many 1 star VSes on too many big limestone crags. An early teenage foray saw me attempting Le Poudin Noir at Sandford Quarry, with youthful enthusiasm and it's old sandbag grade. I backed off to the wise words of my young mentor Pete Rigby "Sensible idea Matt, my old man says 'the climb will still be here tomorrow, just make sure you are'". A couple of decades later and I laid that old ghost to rest, and I'm bloody glad my teenage self didn't commit past the start as the whole route is pretty sketchy and intense, and very good for a limestone quarry. Alas we ended up too late to get any battered poudin noir in the local chippy, but a pint of cider for dinner sufficed.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: A fine line...
Post by: comPiler on July 13, 2016, 07:00:10 pm
A fine line... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/07/a-fine-line.html)
13 July 2016, 1:31 pm



...between success and failure, between love and hate, between good and evil, between evocative personal prose and eyeball-vomitingly self-indulgent flowery drivel. But other bloggers do a far better job of the latter than me and I hopefully retain enough awareness to restrain the drivel a bit.

The fine line I'm referring to is between a climbing challenge that is enthralling and engrossing and a climbing challenge that is draining and demoralising. Despite a respectable veneer of bumbledon and - so I've been told - an illusionary impression of calm competence, I'm often pushing along that line, or at least trying to. And with such fineness, it's the little things that cause you to swerve from one side to the other. Nearly a year ago I was on the former side of the line on the best lead of my life on The Long Run at Gogarth, a few days ago I was on the latter side of the line on the hardest lead of my life on Black Magic at Pentire. The little thing was conditions, perfect on TLR with a fresh cool breeze after all day sun, arduous on BM with a humid breeze after all day haze.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BUC4H_kfpNQ/V4YvIi8FPMI/AAAAAAAABz4/2Rp3OAmzSYccqrvEWT4XEyKTiTBsJ9BMwCLcB/s400/black03.JPG) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BUC4H_kfpNQ/V4YvIi8FPMI/AAAAAAAABz4/2Rp3OAmzSYccqrvEWT4XEyKTiTBsJ9BMwCLcB/s1600/black03.JPG)Cathedral is a very good descriptor. It's a very slightly off-vertical cathedral though.I probably shouldn't have been on it, and it's all Duncan's fault that I was. We were down there with the indefatiguable Cheque Pictures (https://chequepictures.com/), filming Duncan returning to Eroica for a fully free ascent 37(!) years after his standard aid-point ascent. This all went rather smoothly with the crux dispatched with all the flamboyant power-whooping you'd expect from Mr Critchley, although when I came to follow it (a *very* rare occasion of me following a harder route, mostly because Eroica had never been on my wishlist) I struggled to see how he'd dispatched the greasy, minimally-featured crux and subsequent death-defying teeter on lead. The general difficulty and poor conditions were reassuring - definitely not a day to try anything hard like a lifetime ambition right at my limit or any nonsense like that.

Relief mixed with sandwiches and general Atlantic coast discussion at the bottom of the crag, but I kept walking down and touching the Black Magic starting holds and looking at the fine line of the horizon which seemed to be a lot clearer and less hazy than previously. I'd been wanting to do this route for decades ever since the triptych photo of Ken Palmer rocking over (unspeakably bad beta of course) but surely I wasn't ready for it now. I went for a power-shit around the corner just in case and came back to this:

Duncan: How are you feeling??Me: Kinda nauseous and wobbly really...Duncan: Well, that's natural isn't it, you're bound to feel like that before a big challenging lead.Me: Oh for fuck's sake, damn you old school climbers who know what it's all about, that's exactly the right thing to say, now I have to try it!!He could have said some inane shite like "Just man the fuck up and get on it" or some wishy-washy cop-out like "Well you can always leave it till later", but no, he had to say the right thing, the right mixture of sense and understanding (which didn't quite extend to the 20 year old general beta - also unspeakably bad, but that didn't matter ;)).

So I did it and the haze came back in and by the time I got to the belay the distant headlands were barely visible and although it was climbable it certainly wasn't crisp and this had the experience teetering from the undiluted pleasure of TLR to something darker and deeper and I got mid-way though the crux after half a dozen goes trying to commit to it and just wanted to drop off as my emotions were frayed and decided I might as well drop off doing the move which of course I didn't as climbing isn't usually as hard as committing and then it was just a methodical process of infinite 5c moves and sore toes and spaced RPs up the flake and really that was just fucking ace.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uoQce69ngVg/V4YzOGzsfuI/AAAAAAAAB0E/ArbQbTE39Fov5gUYL1jjjpkM6_kCXxkYACLcB/s400/black02.JPG) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uoQce69ngVg/V4YzOGzsfuI/AAAAAAAAB0E/ArbQbTE39Fov5gUYL1jjjpkM6_kCXxkYACLcB/s1600/black02.JPG)White magic.

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Duma on July 13, 2016, 07:39:14 pm
Excellent,  nice one fiend.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: nik at work on July 13, 2016, 07:54:54 pm
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 13, 2016, 09:20:47 pm
 :great:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: filz on July 13, 2016, 09:34:03 pm
:dance1: 

Inviato dal mio Nexus 6P utilizzando Tapatalk

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Duma on July 13, 2016, 10:11:42 pm
Now the half ton deadlift has brought mark s back, can the love for this post bring fiend back too please?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: fatneck on July 14, 2016, 11:40:43 am
 :agree: :bow: :clap2:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Duncan campbell on July 14, 2016, 11:50:01 am
Nice one Fiend! Well jealous!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: T_B on July 14, 2016, 01:49:31 pm
 :clap2: #psyche
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 14, 2016, 11:08:27 pm
Eddie did the 500kg ALREADY?? Fucking HELL, it was like 463 last year. Mindblowing.  :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

P.s.  :hug: @ you guys, thanks.
Title: Zillertal Beta.
Post by: comPiler on August 23, 2016, 07:00:09 pm
Zillertal Beta. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/08/zillertal-beta.html)
23 August 2016, 3:04 pm



Another slightly off-piste destination - in summer at least, in winter I'm sure it's well pisted. Is it worth it?? If you really want to climb amongst endless Alpine scenery of mountains, forests, and hillside cabins, with convenient logistics from the Mayrhofen resort including a hearty diet of - yup again - schnitzel und weissbier, all with the irresistable soundtrack of cowbells, it could be for you.

The climbing:

Is essentially a blend of sport climbing that is essentially "the best of Scottish sport-climbing" i.e. good but sub-world-class climbs on decent inland schistose / granitic gneiss, with more aesthetic and striking bouldering circuits in delightful locations.

Route-wise it wasn't as special in the F6s as Pfalz / Bohuslan / Pedriza, but it was good and varied and would be a novelty for sassenachs who have never visited Creag Nan Luch / Cadhag / Goat Crag etc. The harder grade routes do look more spectacular but given everything is undergraded anyway, expect a tough time.

Boulder-wise the plethora of tumbled blocs (including some very recently tumbled ones at Sundergrund providing some cool new lines) provide more distinct lines in a wild variety of situations from along river beds (and actually in the rivers) to forested hillsides, to charming Alpine meadows. I would suggest the bouldering is slightly more inspiring, combining both is definitely recommended.

The guidebook.

Is fairly hopeless in many ways including having small scale maps that are inconsistent with large scale maps, estimating walk-in times by rolling a random selection of dice, describing approaches as following "the path" but not telling you which one of the 25 available, describing bad parking options, not mentioning road tolls or cable car fees, neglecting information like sun/shade orientation and likely rain-shelter, making up grades with numbers left over from the approach time debacle, and drawing topo lines where the author thinks routes might go if viewed from a distance whilst drunk, rather than actually following the distinct bolt lines. But it has a plentiful selection of crags and boulders.

Weather:

Alpine summer. It can be hot or rainy but rarely both at once and the latter seems to rarely last long despite summer months being the slightly wetter ones. The classic European tactic of getting hotter and hotter until a couple of days of clearing storms seems a feasible one. The crags are fairly high up and cover a variety of situations including shade, shelter, exposure etc so even though the weather is not guaranteed dry, it should be manageable.

Transport:

Flight to wherever. We went to Munich which is about 2 hours away or 3 hours if you're cutting it fine for the flight and don't want a fuckload of delays and roadworks and get them anyway. Mayrhofen is about an hour from Innsbruck and about 30 mins South of the main A12 autobahn. Some car hire companies charge cross border fees and you need a special 8 Euro access sticker to get from .de to .at.

Accommodation etc:

Mayrhofen is the hub of the area and has everything you need. Good price off-season apartments / hostels / hotels etc in or around it, rough river-side camping further up past Ginzling. There may be other campsites.

Other activities:

In winter it's a well-established resort. In summer it's a seemingly equally established hub of fair weather activities, including vast quantities of walking, cycling, downhill scootering, paragliding, cable car touring, spas, summer bobsleighs etc etc. You might even have time to climb too...

The photos:

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BwRyegmuoXE/V7xU1c42VsI/AAAAAAAAB0s/Z-tWpRGnLboLbRY-iI5Rjtn6sW9gi1r9gCLcB/s400/apartmentview2.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BwRyegmuoXE/V7xU1c42VsI/AAAAAAAAB0s/Z-tWpRGnLboLbRY-iI5Rjtn6sW9gi1r9gCLcB/s1600/apartmentview2.jpg) View by day.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BOFNjRnaKho/V7xU1YjqvAI/AAAAAAAAB0o/451F66Be0rQR4ZKjVIXM4jr0Fh9o8qnCwCLcB/s400/coo1.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BOFNjRnaKho/V7xU1YjqvAI/AAAAAAAAB0o/451F66Be0rQR4ZKjVIXM4jr0Fh9o8qnCwCLcB/s1600/coo1.jpg) View at most times.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ANgHCDJjjPs/V7xU1LW8NwI/AAAAAAAAB0k/bs_FK3UHyfsDfd6TBvC6AWM-9BqhLYs9wCLcB/s400/evening.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ANgHCDJjjPs/V7xU1LW8NwI/AAAAAAAAB0k/bs_FK3UHyfsDfd6TBvC6AWM-9BqhLYs9wCLcB/s1600/evening.jpg) View by night.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Ua9whkE4ck/V7xU1lhi6yI/AAAAAAAAB0w/27QeoKv6bPE7BLbDoL8e5wSVykoBb51UgCLcB/s400/fiend_boulder1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Ua9whkE4ck/V7xU1lhi6yI/AAAAAAAAB0w/27QeoKv6bPE7BLbDoL8e5wSVykoBb51UgCLcB/s1600/fiend_boulder1.jpg) A minor problem amongst major ones, but what a setting!

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iRs6des4ttI/V7xU1r7lkGI/AAAAAAAAB00/Njy1XsbCzQABRnsyK39O8jatefE-iDe9wCLcB/s400/fiend_boulder2.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iRs6des4ttI/V7xU1r7lkGI/AAAAAAAAB00/Njy1XsbCzQABRnsyK39O8jatefE-iDe9wCLcB/s1600/fiend_boulder2.jpg) Pulling on a pancake. There are some harder mega-lines around Sundergrund.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rnbE55aiBmU/V7xU1-h9PSI/AAAAAAAAB04/11isU0s80ak3l2OmcGj4rpucpvdYClKhQCLcB/s400/fiend_climb1a.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rnbE55aiBmU/V7xU1-h9PSI/AAAAAAAAB04/11isU0s80ak3l2OmcGj4rpucpvdYClKhQCLcB/s1600/fiend_climb1a.jpg) Ewige Jagdgründe is probably the coolest crag in the area for all sorts of reasons...

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ud91SsFo5dA/V7xU142nrFI/AAAAAAAAB08/LUR2ucDpqWAXDyM31caudP9o5p55vPAngCLcB/s400/fiend_climb1b.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ud91SsFo5dA/V7xU142nrFI/AAAAAAAAB08/LUR2ucDpqWAXDyM31caudP9o5p55vPAngCLcB/s1600/fiend_climb1b.jpg) ....access, setting, scenery, climbing, etc etc.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JB4cpSCQmIY/V7xU2FjY5gI/AAAAAAAAB1A/9Q3lMR1BWcACg3XkB5AWqkc8Cx2CkmcbQCLcB/s400/fiend_climb2a.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JB4cpSCQmIY/V7xU2FjY5gI/AAAAAAAAB1A/9Q3lMR1BWcACg3XkB5AWqkc8Cx2CkmcbQCLcB/s1600/fiend_climb2a.jpg) £15 cable car round trip to climb up at Knorren. Well worth it.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LB6Vb0YfhAg/V7xU2GeqFWI/AAAAAAAAB1E/b6gI9mBCGm448JpI7BdVC5kkJPVsDIJ1ACLcB/s400/fiend_climb2b.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LB6Vb0YfhAg/V7xU2GeqFWI/AAAAAAAAB1E/b6gI9mBCGm448JpI7BdVC5kkJPVsDIJ1ACLcB/s1600/fiend_climb2b.jpg) I'd happily get cable cars to climb all the time. Cool fresh air at 2100m too.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_TDj5UIeR1Q/V7xU2cnvOUI/AAAAAAAAB1I/F9_MO7TfxiE4igwrFX0XZy0c3Tk6FRuygCLcB/s400/fiend_climb3a.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_TDj5UIeR1Q/V7xU2cnvOUI/AAAAAAAAB1I/F9_MO7TfxiE4igwrFX0XZy0c3Tk6FRuygCLcB/s1600/fiend_climb3a.jpg) Can't see the forest for the trees? Luckily the crags usually stand fairly clear.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uWI7GDHGUyE/V7xU2gqdROI/AAAAAAAAB1M/PKgK5N2Dyis9KjgHDxxXw3O1vaZfXmw-ACLcB/s400/fiend_climb4a.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uWI7GDHGUyE/V7xU2gqdROI/AAAAAAAAB1M/PKgK5N2Dyis9KjgHDxxXw3O1vaZfXmw-ACLcB/s1600/fiend_climb4a.jpg) More Ewige Jagdgründe. Very fun juggy warm-up.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vyylEqO05bw/V7xU2uoz7WI/AAAAAAAAB1Q/FjUC3qI2skUqGb3lYfuwTYeS66gb3X5bwCLcB/s400/fiend_climb5a.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vyylEqO05bw/V7xU2uoz7WI/AAAAAAAAB1Q/FjUC3qI2skUqGb3lYfuwTYeS66gb3X5bwCLcB/s1600/fiend_climb5a.jpg) And more! Terrible image quality  as it was actually pitch dark, but this route was the highlight of the trip. There may have even been a couple of power belches.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aTRfb6pIhCs/V7xU2nuyHsI/AAAAAAAAB1U/b6wpMEno1-omNerFaOFTIyMW8Kwzhj47wCLcB/s400/postbouldersky1.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aTRfb6pIhCs/V7xU2nuyHsI/AAAAAAAAB1U/b6wpMEno1-omNerFaOFTIyMW8Kwzhj47wCLcB/s1600/postbouldersky1.jpg) Typical evening view after bouldering.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-blYxabuvWNI/V7xU2xcgenI/AAAAAAAAB1Y/BgYrPM1PPO8XWJwNKQYSZS8guQFJ92gvwCLcB/s400/postclimbsky1.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-blYxabuvWNI/V7xU2xcgenI/AAAAAAAAB1Y/BgYrPM1PPO8XWJwNKQYSZS8guQFJ92gvwCLcB/s1600/postclimbsky1.jpg)Typical evening view after sport climbing.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Three Funerals And A Model Shop
Post by: comPiler on October 01, 2016, 07:00:04 pm
Three Funerals And A Model Shop (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/10/three-funerals-and-model-shop.html)
1 October 2016, 1:15 pm



This summer started with a funeral and a model shop, and it finished with a funeral and a model shop. That has a certain circularity, or symmetry, something I generally like. A sort of ontological neatness, of little consequence in the grand scheme of things, but pleasing to certain peculiar individuals. The climb that swallows all your cams but the only one needed for the belay (two left just wouldn't do), the last minute pub that has run out of most dishes except one meat dish for me and one veggie dish for some good-friend-but-dietary-freak I'm with, the road closed detour on the way back from a crag that takes me past a boulder that I've got just enough daylight to do, no more and no less, the Zillertal trip that starts with an evening doing a classic F6a+ at Ewige Jagdgründe, lustily eyeing up the amazing F6c+ next to it, and fuelling my desire in the Gasthof-Restaurant Perauer, and finishes with me fighting up that very same F6c+ as the last route at Ewige Jagdgründe, and celebrating the ascent at the same Gasthof-Restaurant Perauer. Do you see what I mean??

In general I would have preferred there to be less funerals involved in the whole procedure and I am somewhat tired of them - being familiar with the process is not something I'd really aspired to. Too many funerals is symptomatic of too many deaths and there have been a lot around me this year (apparently there have been many celebrity deaths too, however I'd have to calculate some 1/? anti-number to show just how few shits I give about that, and it might break blogspot). Simon's death made me shocked (his funeral being the early outlier of the summer bookends), and I still have moments of wondering when we'll next hook up for climbing before realising....oh fuck, we won't. Rachel's death had a sad sense of inevitability as it unfolded, but still felt strange. Asad Shah's death made me very angry about the sheer pointless stupidity of killing a nice, decent, if quirky man - his shop is less than 100m from my front door and was the regular stop off for soft drinks and emergency chocolate. Uncle Fred's death brought sad but calm acceptance, celebration of a life well lived, and a strengthening of family ties.

Mia's death made me feel utterly sick. I've been friends with Rosie for a decade and used to hang out regularly around the Peak District, enjoying her feisty banter and Mia's sparky, spirited presence. I found out via Rosie's emergency Facebook post while I was away climbing in Cornwall and it "did my fucking head in" for several days. It's simply the worst thing that could happen to a parent, I couldn't comprehend it and could barely comprehend how Rosie managed to be so communicative and informative. Everyone always says how lovely and wonderful children are and blindly sing their praises in any circumstances. I don't - in general I find breeding repugnant, parenthood an awful concept, and children pointless wee shitebags. But as I said then and say now, Mia really was an ace girl, astute and clever beyond her years, as well as being sharp-witted and gorgeous. Another pointless, stupid killing of someone who least deserved it, and I really don't want to see anyone else I know on the BBC News website for now.

Rosie has many vials of Mia's ashes, at some point I will get one to scatter at a crag in Northumberland where I first hung out with them - I think it's either Back Bowden or Kyloe Out in the first photograph of Mia in my bomber jacket in this article (http://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/mia-ayliffe-chung-rosie-ayliffe-tom-jackson-british-backpacker-stabbed-a7221691.html) - if anyone can Id it then I can get the right crag, or maybe just a wee bit at both. And several boulder problems in her honour of course.

Mia's memorial service was the end of the summer, Fred's was the first. Fred was the co-founder of Steve Webb Models And Hobbies (http://www.stevewebb.co.uk/) , where I hung out in my youth and glued balsa to my face and sliced into my fingers (a main finger ridge scar still being an annoying exacerbance to my continual skin problems), but didn't actually get involved in the radio control part of the hobby as my parents (rightly) thought I couldn't be trusted with such complex kits. My tribute to Fred highlighted the importance of hobbies and passions, although of course the shop was closed. It was, however, open when I drove from Llandridod Wells - where I had been nu-routing with Pylon King and Don Sargeant in the Elan Valley as well as fending off Don's relentlessly demented spaniel Cadi - to Wirksworth for the service. So a couple of decades late I treated myself to my first R/C car....

It is a blast, ridiculously fast and agile, although the learning curve is steeper than the skate ramp in that video. I've only broken two suspension ends, an axle, a suspension arm and suspension shaft in as many runs.... But it's all part of the fun even if R/C spare parts stores are swamping my bookmarks. I fully intend to strap an MP3 player and speaker on top and terrorise local quarries with pounding gabber once I've fixed the shocks. Well....maybe ;) Actually one of my main inspirations was getting out into the local limestone quarries near Bristol....vast gravelly wastelands, loads of raised hummocks and easy angled slabs, they'd be absolutely perfect. Pity I'm 400 cunting miles away now. Camby will have to do, but when I head back, I'm bagging the first R/C ascent of stuff like this:

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MNYLYEO66kY/V--lRtudnmI/AAAAAAAAB18/F6J1eoO_0BgeX6RXOeBZSWHQI51LQCReQCLcB/s400/slabbz.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MNYLYEO66kY/V--lRtudnmI/AAAAAAAAB18/F6J1eoO_0BgeX6RXOeBZSWHQI51LQCReQCLcB/s1600/slabbz.jpg)

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dHtl1qK3CvI/V--lRHOsWRI/AAAAAAAAB14/0M0qj-CtCRk1cXjK4slniOlJ5bCvvVYvACLcB/s400/fiend_test.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dHtl1qK3CvI/V--lRHOsWRI/AAAAAAAAB14/0M0qj-CtCRk1cXjK4slniOlJ5bCvvVYvACLcB/s1600/fiend_test.jpg)

This is Glacial Point at Fairy Cave. Definitive borderline E3/4 5c/6a and rather good fun with a pretty smeary crux. This was a pleasing micro-challenge but fairly indicative of the bumbly depths I had to sink to when my stamina, confidence, and skin dryness disappeared entirely up my arse. The list of inspiring routes I abandoned all hope on in the last month of being down South is probably longer than the list of great routes I did during the first month, so it was a fairly tail-between-legs end to my time down there. More on that later, but in the meantime I'm taking a week or so off climbing, which will then necessitate a full month of fighting hard to get back into it. Such is my climbing fragility.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on October 02, 2016, 08:31:56 am
Missing video from that post:

https://vimeo.com/185034034
Title: Obsession Futile
Post by: comPiler on October 15, 2016, 01:00:28 am
Obsession Futile (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/10/obsession-futile.html)
14 October 2016, 10:08 pm



Of the many carefully cultivated and nurtured personality defects I've accumulated over the decades that are specifically detrimental to climbing (inhibiting aspects from keeping fit to keeping friendly contacts), one would assume that obsessive tendencies would be the least worrying. I certainly obsess about climbing a "little" bit, but as I once said to my good friend Potty, my main problem is I'm not nearly obsessed enough, although perhaps what I mean is that my obsession can be deflected elsewhere, again into the realms of climbing detriments.

This time it's all the fault of another good friend Jo, who I had a couple of nice days out with down in Bristol, and who revealed to me the shocking confession that she was "quite into" painting toy soldiers, but frustrated about not being good enough and could I offer any advice?? Well if I'd had paints and brushes with me I could have done so quite easily, but I didn't....but this still swerved my obsession wildly away from the true path of climbing and into a desire to share the painting geekdom.

So I got back to Glasgow and did fuck all climbing and training and instead did a series of 14 fucking painting tutorial videos (https://vimeo.com/user1353663/videos) (each one taking about 2 hours total painting, filming, and editing) which is great for anyone who wants to know about colour schemes and blending and brush angles and a whole host of tips and tricks picked up from a couple of decades doing this very strictly tangential hobby, but utterly fucking useless for keeping me fit and strong and trying to rectify the uninspired mood I came back with.

What a bellend.

Still I've learnt something. Don't do it again.

In other obsessive news, I've still been enjoying my wee car:

https://vimeo.com/186073318

I've actually upped my success rate in that I'm having more full battery runs where I don't break something than those that I do. And I clocked it at 37mph the other day, it should be able to do a bit faster out of the box, but being well over the speed limit is pleasing enough, and it's a bugger to control at that speed with a stopping distance akin to a full size car. I don't feel nearly as.....soiled by this geekout, as it takes less time farting around, gets me out in the fresh air and is more social etc etc. Even if sometimes you just can't get the staff (https://vimeo.com/186097022)...

Still no excuses now, I've got to get back training. It would help if I knew for what. I've been so scared of still being shite at climbing and not having the confidence to get on the things I want to do, I don't actually know what I *do* want to do... Answers on a postcard to the usual email address.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fultonius on October 15, 2016, 09:58:36 am
I'm glad you didn't borrow my camera after all.....
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Nibile on October 15, 2016, 10:04:56 am
Jesus fucking Christ Fiend, amazing conditions in that second video, sunny and windy, you should have been climbing! Or at least training.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on October 15, 2016, 10:22:28 am
Fultonious, the reason I needed to borrow a camera for painting tutorials was due to the incident in that video  :alien: . Thankfully I took it to AJ Johnstone in town and their technician managed to force it back in so it's all working fine.

Nibile....I know, I know  :-[. Although I was visiting my brother's dog so I think that's allowed...

Also, compiler broke that AGAIN. That second video is suppose to be a link "Even if you just can't get the staff these days"
Title: Back in the game.
Post by: comPiler on November 11, 2016, 01:00:07 pm
Back in the game. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/11/back-in-game.html)
11 November 2016, 10:05 am



This post is proudly brought to you by...

(https://images.medpex.de/medias/xw19tCGxKhV27DeVnFIVka-30.jpg) (https://images.medpex.de/medias/xw19tCGxKhV27DeVnFIVka-30.jpg)...slightly compensating for Fiend's fucking awful skin since October 2016. Any products mentioned in this post will be subject to 100% bias on that basis.

Somehow I underestimated the time it took me to get back into training and climbing. Usually due to legs, weight, damp-susceptibility etc, any more than one rest day results in doubling number of days on  (either outdoor climbing or alternating indoor wall with general exercise) to get back to my previous form. 2 days off, 4 days on required. 3 days off, 6 days on required. Approximately. Anyway this time it wasn't so bad. It turns out that while toy soldier painting videos are bloody terrible warm-ups for training, disassembling and reassembling RC cars with constant fiddling and screwing (uhuh) is a pretty decent warm-up for the fingers. I expect to see Dave Mac espousing this pretty soon.

On the other hand it doesn't seem to make a great different to skin quality so that was an immediate frustration down at TCA, resulting in a useful discussion with TCA's High Empress Jackie in which she recommended regular, rather than sporadic Anti-Hydral use. Years ago I got a bit over-excited when fatdoc from UKB started importing AH, and bought 6 tubes of it, which I've probably used a handful of "emergency" times in the intervening decade. I always thought it shouldn't be relied on and was a specialist treatment only for real weirdos with freakishly bad skin.

Of course, I AM that real weirdo with freakishly bad skin.

What an idiot - what the fuck have I been doing for the last decade??

So I've started using it - tiny spots rubbed into my tips before bed - most days a week with a day or two off, and fuck me it works. My skin isn't feeling dry, or leathery, or hard....it's feeling fucking NORMAL. N O R M A L. What a revelation. This had the amusing side-effect of going down to TCA, not greasing off the holds, and falling off them cos I couldn't hang on. It's amazing how much WEAKNESS is exposed when it's not masked by excessive sweating. Then pretty soon, since I was pushing the limits of my muscles not the coefficient of damp friction, I started feeling pretty decent pushing myself at the wall - as well as increasingly psyched to see how well normal skin would do on the rock. Of course my own personal damp is not the only moisture around and Saturday's forecast is saying no grit visit this weekend :(. But in the meantime I can keep training okay - at the moment I'm sticking mostly to bouldering to start the winter, and will transition to routes and stamina later on.

Also pushing the limits of friction is this wee beast:

Savage XS Skatepark Smash (https://vimeo.com/188205813)

This sort of relaxed driving style is why it needs so much maintenance and what keeps my fingers warmed up pre-climbing ;)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Wood FT on November 11, 2016, 02:05:26 pm
Fiend,

as a fellow sufferer of kipper flippers I thank you for this post as it has reminded me to get applying it, it's next to the bed but I just keep putting it off.

I write this with greasy tips having fallen off a lot last night with wet hands.

Yours,

Sweatfest
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Nibile on November 11, 2016, 04:54:05 pm
Fiend + greasy tips + a lot last night + wet hands + Yours + Sweatfest
=  :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 11, 2016, 05:05:55 pm
It has got me inappropriately oozing just thinking about it.
Title: Bristol Calling.
Post by: comPiler on November 11, 2016, 07:03:07 pm
Bristol Calling. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/11/bristol-calling.html)
11 November 2016, 7:01 pm



Training - the way I do it, only semi-structured, bouldering and routes indoors, but pushing myself and my limits hard, listening to my body, working some weaknesses, keeping some awareness of relevance - is fun. The pleasure of playing with movement, piecing together puzzles, crushing challenges. But it's also training for something. Sometimes that's something specific, upcoming trips, particular plans or route inspirations. Sometimes it's just keeping strong and fit, which is a worthy goal in itself. My mate PK, a semi-recent convert to not training and not pushing himself at all, sometimes berates me "yeah wot u training for tho?". Well not being weak and unfit and useless for a start!!

So there came a time recently when my TCA sessions turned into a Ratho session full of surprisingly decent performance and easy falling practise which was confirmation that a planned Bristol trip was inspiring again. This was in theory going to coincide with getting to Cornwall in colder conditions and getting on crisp granite, but it didn't, alas that will have to wait for next spring, hopefully a reasonable grit season will be enough preparation for that. In the meantime I took advantage of much more local climbing and a much cheerier vibe than one would ever find around the Central Belt, as well as splitting the journey up following some inspiration from the shiny new Lancashire Brick (more on that almost excellent volume later). So it went a bit like this:

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Eyjiv-57UZA/WCYNOyuJYJI/AAAAAAAAB3E/T5hP8VHmGzsJFlNf9BWJmL7-iJtcqV-XACLcB/s400/fiend_w4.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Eyjiv-57UZA/WCYNOyuJYJI/AAAAAAAAB3E/T5hP8VHmGzsJFlNf9BWJmL7-iJtcqV-XACLcB/s1600/fiend_w4.jpg)EKU28 or The Russian at Wilton 4 (since they are essentially the same route in a "use the crimp with your left, or right, hand" sort of way). This was highlighted in the Wilton 4 clean-up film earlier this year and despite a slightly green appearance, it was in the fabled "mint nick". A lovely wee solo, probably E2 5b.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T9qsulDvC7c/WCYNhEFuPpI/AAAAAAAAB3M/WE-TU6vrJ0gFyjG6cB7s0TEN2pm0bKv8ACLcB/s400/14906825_10157787579840151_7334082392696981014_n.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T9qsulDvC7c/WCYNhEFuPpI/AAAAAAAAB3M/WE-TU6vrJ0gFyjG6cB7s0TEN2pm0bKv8ACLcB/s1600/14906825_10157787579840151_7334082392696981014_n.jpg)

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-shw-34-WCJM/WCYNKVPCykI/AAAAAAAAB20/hklxvm4yda0VcAwGE53VssIhQoNaO8pRgCLcB/s400/fiend_alone.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-shw-34-WCJM/WCYNKVPCykI/AAAAAAAAB20/hklxvm4yda0VcAwGE53VssIhQoNaO8pRgCLcB/s1600/fiend_alone.jpg)

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-voDcYZ6h9kc/WCYNMmRjWoI/AAAAAAAAB24/GcVpKWjRx2QXH_K20Mp62FRK-Y0ZAAnhwCLcB/s400/fiend_jean2.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-voDcYZ6h9kc/WCYNMmRjWoI/AAAAAAAAB24/GcVpKWjRx2QXH_K20Mp62FRK-Y0ZAAnhwCLcB/s1600/fiend_jean2.jpg)Fiend Alone with Jeanette, Pots And Pans Quarries. An old inspiration from an old photo. Another E2-ish 5b solo in another minor quarry. This one was a bit eliminate avoiding the arete, but smearier and scarier. Reaching the top in the encroaching gloom, whilst actually alone, was quite satisfying.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-86pLip8WGNM/WCYNPrCok1I/AAAAAAAAB3I/uxmDiHtfkjYsOjNUX8jb0U0oa-RSq37vgCLcB/s400/frome.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-86pLip8WGNM/WCYNPrCok1I/AAAAAAAAB3I/uxmDiHtfkjYsOjNUX8jb0U0oa-RSq37vgCLcB/s1600/frome.jpg)Whilst I was down in Bristol, PK made good on his long term threat to take me to the Frome Valley sandstone. This is esoteric and specialist even by my perverted tastes, although admittedly the climbing would be quite fun if it was clean. Maybe his imminent guide will replace cobwebs with chalk and moss patches with polish? This wee route for example, was 6m of juggy roof climbing. Not bad for something 20 yards from a busy footpath. That busy footpath saw the farcical scene of PK and I hurtling along it at dusk, trailing gear, rucsacs and 50m of rope, frantically trying to escape the above wasp that was cunningly embedded inside my vest. One emergency disrobing and 8 stings later it met it's well deserved fate. The stings were itching for days, the wee cunt.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xiSFXw_sdw8/WCYNKc0jVQI/AAAAAAAAB2w/ndOVsTOO8WUXxpNPCNTzJIev8p7g-ejGwCLcB/s400/fiend_gap1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xiSFXw_sdw8/WCYNKc0jVQI/AAAAAAAAB2w/ndOVsTOO8WUXxpNPCNTzJIev8p7g-ejGwCLcB/s1600/fiend_gap1.jpg)

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1cj9unMh9LY/WCYNJ3BXrHI/AAAAAAAAB2s/PYuDoB1_WyI3D4hMFOHXAqJSc18HXpNbgCLcB/s400/fiend_gap2.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1cj9unMh9LY/WCYNJ3BXrHI/AAAAAAAAB2s/PYuDoB1_WyI3D4hMFOHXAqJSc18HXpNbgCLcB/s1600/fiend_gap2.jpg)Two fun sport routes at The Gap. The first is a groove, the second is an arete. Two sides of the same feature, I like that. Both very nice fun routes that belie an initial slightly flakey and grubby vibe, very typical of the area which has seen minor quarries transformed into worthwhile sport venues. Very soon these will transform into overrated honeypots due to an imminent Rockfax guide. Unfortunately the same PK was due to write a proper independent / local activists guide to the area but other parties didn't get organised in time, so this Rockfax purchase will actually be justifiable for a change.  

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2X5d1X1ylhs/WCYNM7_jnII/AAAAAAAAB3A/fuwJUbP2Vws2xz28hbQdFY1ypSoPKVp5QCLcB/s400/fiend_mont1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2X5d1X1ylhs/WCYNM7_jnII/AAAAAAAAB3A/fuwJUbP2Vws2xz28hbQdFY1ypSoPKVp5QCLcB/s1600/fiend_mont1.jpg)

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--bWE29bRjwY/WCYNMxKtxhI/AAAAAAAAB28/iZIU2RzmduoXIIHqBupfTu_s4CVRVwxugCLcB/s400/fiend_mont2.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--bWE29bRjwY/WCYNMxKtxhI/AAAAAAAAB28/iZIU2RzmduoXIIHqBupfTu_s4CVRVwxugCLcB/s1600/fiend_mont2.jpg)Crimpy sandstone sport climbing is quite fair training for crimpy quarried grit trad climbing, as evidenced by a fun start to a glorious Saturday at Lower Montcliffe. Unfortunately this fun turned sour as we were kicked off this delightfully sunny but newly owned quarry, albeit after a conversation that turned from typically bullheaded "git orf my land" to a useful discussion of possible progress, respect, and future access with permission. It turns out the situation is somewhat more complicated (https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682/permalink/1831070040471769/) and hopefully will get resolved sooner rather than later, as LM is a fine example of hidden gems away from the big Lancashire venues. Big venues such as Anglezarke where we finished off the day with a couple of decent routes although frustratingly a re-failure on Tangerine Trip, approximately 0.5 inches from the finishing handjam after me climbing, and pushing past terminal pump, surprisingly well. At least I'm now experienced enough to know that if this is E3 then Supercrack and Wilton Wall are solid HVSes....so it's not. Still I came away from the weekend with enough inspiration for more Lancs suntraps until it gets cold enough for proper grit (i.e. not long probably!)

Missed off this list was a bit more sport dicking around, and an exciting day at Avon doing Yellow Edge (apparently suitable for ambitious E2 leaders, I think I'm a decade and a half beyond that and it was tough, sustained and dangerous as an E3 thanks) and Last Slip (apparently suitable for people who find grit E4 5cs easy and also ignore guidebook bullshit like "lots of small wires". Yeah, lots. All 2 of them. In the same fucking shallow slot. Well below your feet on the 5c quarryman bridging crux. Thankfully the weather was crisp enough to get it done with a lot of deep breaths and my eyes half-closed). An evening celebrating with Kwak beer and a fantastic amount of in-house cats at the Bag Of Nails pub went down very well.

I also got to Fairy Cave and didn't get halfway up Balch's Slide.....but I know someone who did....

HPI Savage XS Bristol Bash! (https://vimeo.com/190927251)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: A matter of values.
Post by: comPiler on November 12, 2016, 01:00:05 pm
A matter of values. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/11/a-matter-of-values.html)
12 November 2016, 10:20 am



There was another minor retro-bolting debacle at Ratho Quarry. Ho hum. I didn't even notice it until B pointed it out during a mutual sieging session on the notoriously addictive grey stamina circuit at TCA, and once I did, I didn't feel it enriched my life in any way. Basically Buz put up a new 7b or c or something up an old Robbie Philips / Lincoln / Small project that included two bolts in an old, starred E3, and an "enhanced" hold. There are many things to say about this of varying lack of interest, such as Smally popping his head out of his dark horse's stable to condemn the matter, Buz once again thinking he could get away with it by not having any public consultation and present it as a fait d'accompli, and the usual myopic morons (and an off-target McGeek) throwing a spanner into the works with such red herrings as dismissing anti-retro-bolting concerns because apparently approving a lower-off on Pettifar's Wall to avoid the grim and created-by-the-M8 extension earth cornice is "hypocritical". What, as hypocritical as abseil points at the Cromlech, Martin Crocker suggesting pre-placed belay ropes in the Rhinnogs, an abseil chain at Sharpnose, recommended pre-placed belay ropes at Carn Gowla, bolt lowers before the unclimbable shale band at Anglezarke?? It takes a special kind of fucking imbecile to think that lower-offs are incompatible with trad climbing, but the Scottish sport climbing scene seems to attracts such idiots like flies around dogshit.

The upshot of it all is that - ignoring the chipped hold / heavily cleaned break for now, something probably quite similar to the ""heavily cleaned"" holds on John McCain F6b (I'm quite proud of my UKC factual analysis "If you want man-made routes, the ones inside the arena are usually better") - it boils down to one bolt that should have been placed 2' to one side, making the 7c a bit more run out on 6b ground and the bolt suitably off-route for the E3, something which is quite bloody obvious and would have avoided all the fuss if Buz had actually bothered to consult a selection of the climbing public rather than just Ratho Wall regulars. SIGH.

What is of more interest is discussing this with Craig on a trip over to inspect the nonsense, get rained off, and enjoy those man-made routes inside the arena (a particularly nice red 7a with slopers). He - possibly with his mind addled by the ominous and imminent onset of "Scottish Winter Season" - whilst not supporting retro-bolting, expressed a more relaxed attitude to the ethics of the situation because (forgive me Craig if I paraphrase this wrong) "they are just grotty quarries and local training crags". Obviously this is fallacious reasoning as a reductio ad absurdum would see Master's Edge etc bolted, but his further explanation was that size, grandeur and the beauty of the mountain environment are what he truly values in rock climbing, and even I am forced to admit that for all their 3 star qualities, Shear Fear and Wally 1 don't really have those.

This highlights an interesting difference in values. The ethical side isn't of much debate - good trad climbs are good trad climbs and shouldn't be fucked with without a lot of due consideration and consultation. But what makes climbs really mean something to someone?? Ben Moon or was it Malc "didn't climb to be in beautiful places", and I don't either. I climb to have beautiful trad experiences and that can be finally committing above the skyhooks and RPs on crisp dolerite edges in the mid-December sun on Wally 2, despite being sandwiched in by the monstrous fire escape, the EICA arena, and the distant hum of the M8, or it can be slotting in the next satisfying jam (#16 in a series of 40) on the soaring Whispering Crack, alone with PJ, the mid-summer sun and the endless serenity of the ocean and distant Hebrides. Of course, I like beautiful places, but the main value of my rock-climbing doesn't depend on that, it depends on the intrinsic quality of the climbs themselves, and the surroundings are an enhancement.

Similarly, for me size isn't everything. According to some people you "can't have 3 star boulder problems". Funny that, I thought I'd done hundreds of them (including a couple of national class problems in a grotty local training quarry). At once extreme, climbing is still just Training For The Greater Ranges, the bigger and grander the better, irrespective of the actual climbing qualities of the climb. At the other extreme, climbing is now just cross-training for the Beastmaker and it all boils down to the move, the challenge, the incremental progression. I'm somewhere in-between, but I do errrr towards the joy of movement and technicality and the quality of the climb rather than the setting, context, history etc. So yes, Wally 1 is brilliant whether it's in Ratho or Reiff, the laybacking on Shear Fear is great 10m above a quarry floor or 100m above a mountain hillside, Nijinski is as unjustifiable to ruin by top-roping adjacent to a carpark as it would be high on a Yorkshire moor - these experiences all have value.

Of course, by Craig's values, stricter ethics should apply to the mountains and wilderness and presumably Tunnel Wall and Creag Nan Cadhag and the wee crag beyond Ardmair should be de-bolted. Coel already advocated that for Creag Nan Cadhag, and they may have a point - not necessarily one I agree with, but it's always nice to have people taking stronger ethical stances, maybe doing so will keep the Ratho-style nonsense at bay.

Finally...

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GL_egxzwI_U/WCbo8vDf4kI/AAAAAAAAB3g/XrbLNdJldFEnsdu7KsPW2D3UX5a359EXwCLcB/s400/fiend_man1.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GL_egxzwI_U/WCbo8vDf4kI/AAAAAAAAB3g/XrbLNdJldFEnsdu7KsPW2D3UX5a359EXwCLcB/s1600/fiend_man1.jpg) A very trad climb with a bolted lower-off in a grotty quarry.(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y70fH3J_pLQ/WCbpCH7OmpI/AAAAAAAAB3k/z5Kqf0plS5gmKySpARjg7Xkz89NVfY-BgCLcB/s400/fiend_ard3.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y70fH3J_pLQ/WCbpCH7OmpI/AAAAAAAAB3k/z5Kqf0plS5gmKySpARjg7Xkz89NVfY-BgCLcB/s1600/fiend_ard3.jpg)A convenient bolted sport climb in a wild beautiful environment.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 12, 2016, 01:09:36 pm
Well you an count me in to the special kind of fucking imbecile club with Smally then. Drilling holes is incompatible with the trad ethic. That's not to say I'm unable to come to a pragmatic compromise in all situations, but arguments like popularity and convenience are pretty weak imho.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 12, 2016, 06:49:11 pm
Smally wasn't making any comment about the lower-off on Pettifar's, and was more concerned with chipping than  bolting. And most definitely not any kind of imbecile!!

The lower-off on Pettifar's IS a pragmatic compromise: Originally the route topped out as normal, then - according to the guidebook - the M8/9 extension work happened, destabilised the top of that bit of crag, resulting in an incongruous earth cornice, and later semi-impregnable gorse. This led to the route being neglected and was partly the reason Buz initially jumped in and retroed it, but after seeing sense and de-bolting it, left the lower-off in place so it could be climbed as a feasible trad route (which it is, and it's great).

Any Central Belt regular will be familiar with how the route changed from the motorway work and how the earth cornice temporarily ruined the route (I'm assuming you're less familiar with it) so for them to cry hypocrisy is bullshit (particularly when it's coming from ardent retro-bolt supporters who have given up trad despite claiming otherwise).


Obviously I don't think you're part of any imbecile club  :-*. So I'd be interested in what you think about bolt lower offs on, say, The Manatese (top photo), Young And Easy And Under The Apple Boughs etc etc? And is it just drilled gear that is the problem, or any large scale fixed gear for "convenience"??



Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: user deactivated on November 12, 2016, 09:10:47 pm
Lovely photos of Montcliffe fiend. I always thought the slate quarries held a 'special' position in the bolt debate. A bit like the Australian carrot. I'm against bolts and lower offs of any kind in grit quarries but find it pleasing to clip old ironmongery sometimes. I'm sure I heard a drill at work in Wilton 1 a month or so back so I guess some disagree.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 13, 2016, 12:16:26 pm
So would bolted lower-offs be okay if they were Australian Carrots (i.e. completely mechanically unconvincing)??  ;D

I should make it clear that what I find obnoxious is PRO-RETRO-BOLTERS using the "hypocrisy" argument as an attack on anti-retro-bolters, and presumably implying that the routes should be retrobolted rather than having a lower-off in place as a compromise for a now-inaccessible route.

IF the argument was PRO-PURE-TRAD-CLIMBERS using the same issue to argue that the lower-off should be removed, presumably with all the other retro-bolts around, then that would be a completely different scenario, not least because it would actually be the slightest bit bloody consistent and an ethical stance.

Wilton.....doesn't Jimmy Nip opposite the prow already have a bolt lower-off in?

The Coal Measure face at the Zarke.....that's another very clear example, I remember there was a fuss about that?? I did a wee E1/2 at the left end the other day, nice route with a delicate little step past small cams and RPs, and a bolt lower-off before the shale cornice. Made perfect sense to me. Having said that, come spring and once the seepage, I'll be looking forward to multi-pitching there with Johnny Brown, I'll try to get up the E3 6b (looks well good if a bit ferny) and JB can kick steps up the 6m shale pitch, there should be some decent trees for a belay at the top for when Fatty Fiend pulls off half the crag top  :)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 13, 2016, 01:56:49 pm
BTW, that's not the interesting bit. The interesting bit is: Is a 4 pitch classic mountain route in the wilderness of far Scotland intrinsically more valuable than a technically perfect but unaesthetic single pitch route in a gritstone quarry, or for that matter a perfectly formed but microscopic gritstone sit start??
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: user deactivated on November 13, 2016, 06:45:32 pm
Haha, I wouldn't use a carrot lower off that's for sure. I pulled one out in Tasmania while aiding up a very wet bottom pitch of the totem pole, struggled to trust them after that. Some good observations about the aesthetic value of climbing and landscapes, there's no accounting for taste that's for sure. Luckily it keeps most of the heathens enjoying the views while the connoisseurs know where it's really at. Re the bolt debate there's something to be said for respecting the history, development and style of a place even if it means kicking steps in shale 😂 Not that I know much about Lancashire climbing.
Title: Re: A matter of values.
Post by: cowboyhat on November 14, 2016, 06:58:17 pm
A matter of values. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2016/11/a-matter-of-values.html)
12 November 2016, 10:20 am



 Of course, I like beautiful places, but the main value of my rock-climbing doesn't depend on that, it depends on the intrinsic quality of the climbs themselves, and the surroundings are an enhancement.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)



Well put.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on November 14, 2016, 09:28:50 pm
Good post Matt.

For me on trad, sport or mixed - beautiful moves trump (sorry) aesthetic beauty and grand surroundings. For ice climbing or alpine climbing - beautiful features trump moves, because the moves are all similar or there's so many you can't remember individual sequences. To have both is desirable!

Fixed gear. Ha! ...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 20, 2016, 08:11:49 pm
Cheers. I'd forgotten about Pen Trwyn as the bustling micro-cosm of lower-off equipped trad too!

I'm hoping JB will respond at some point, I wasn't baiting him, I do like his approach a lot and in general like hearing the arguments of people with stronger ethics.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on November 20, 2016, 09:21:36 pm
BTW, that's not the interesting bit. The interesting bit is: Is a 4 pitch classic mountain route in the wilderness of far Scotland intrinsically more valuable than a technically perfect but unaesthetic single pitch route in a gritstone quarry, or for that matter a perfectly formed but microscopic gritstone sit start??


There's no such thing as intrinsic value in your examples - they lack any intrinsic value. The only value they have to a climber is extraneous - i.e. given to by humans. Those different climbs you mention have a different extraneous value according to each individual. The best all-round climbers might be the best at valuing all types of climbs.

But you knew that.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 21, 2016, 01:08:59 pm
Quote
So I'd be interested in what you think about bolt lower offs on, say, The Manatese (top photo), Young And Easy And Under The Apple Boughs etc etc?

I don't know enough about them.

Quote
And is it just drilled gear that is the problem, or any large scale fixed gear for "convenience"??

I've written something similar before, but in principle, I see the point of trad/adventure climbing as navigating my way through a found environment using my equipment and skill. However once someone has decided to ab in and drill a bolt the character of the environment is changed - it becomes one manufactured for climbing. Someone else has made the fundamental safety decision for me. It ceases to be the same challenge. I've still never seen a decent argument as to why chipping holds and drilling holes are different.

I don't generally mind coming across leader-placed gear left by others making the same journey as me. Too much detracts though. I definitely object to replacement by drilled gear.

Of course grey areas remain.
Title: Back once again....
Post by: comPiler on January 26, 2017, 01:00:07 pm
Back once again.... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/01/back-once-again.html)
26 January 2017, 11:37 am



....and who knows I might keep it up this time.

In short, November and December I sulked. New Year I went to Costa Blanca and Albarracin, more on that later but suffice to say I cooked the best tuna steak I've ever had.

Now I'm back in the shithole that is Scotland in the winter, and back training. But for what?? Good question. My immediate goal is to spend the next 3 months climbing on gritstone - right time, wrong place, but I'll try. The training for that revolves solely around anti-hydral cream and some stretching. In the longer term I want to push myself and physically improve (a little bit!), but in what direction?? What do I need to do to do what I want to do, which is essentially "more of the same" challenging inspiring trad, in more varied situations??

To answer this, what could have been better last year, which was mostly decent for the first 2/3 of it?? What did I struggle with, and what can I train to improve those situations.

Some UK routes I failed on, and some reasons why:

Traction Trauma, Dinbren - undergraded, reachy, missed footholds when boxed.

Back To The Old Ways, Backways Cove - undergraded, silty death.

Gale Force Zero, North Pembroke - conditions (too smeggy), undergraded, got pumped

Life's Just A Ballgame, North Pembroke - conditions (hot and sunny), scary bold friction climbing

Peryl, Avon - conditions (too sunny and hot), missed guidebook description of rest ledge.

One Rawl For All, Avon - conditions (too hot on the rock).

White Spider, Dartmoor - conditions (only warm but very slopey friction climbing)

Some E3, Anstey's Cove - conditions (warm even in the shade), tired, slipped off.

Black Sapper, Robin's Rocks - very pumpy, committing, hard to read, more pumpy.

Some E2, Gower - conditions (okay on the rock but too warm in general), hard and holdless.

Dragon's Den, Dewerstone - conditions (a bit grubby and not cold enough for rubbish slopers), didn't rest long enough to let skin cool down and rechalk.

Some F7a, Wyndcliffe Quarry - conditions (damp and greasy), hadn't warmed up enough.

And a few routes I really struggled on:

Mad Mutt, North Pembroke - conditions (a bit smeggy), undergraded, power endurance.

Tremelo, North Pembroke - conditions (a big smeggy), very undergraded, pumpy

Black Magic, Pentire - conditions (gloomy and greasy)

Dogs Of War, Gogarth - conditions (hot and sunny)

The Baldest, St Loy - undergraded, missed hidden RP.

Useful. Really fucking useful. Don't climb when conditions are bad, don't get on sandbag routes.Yeah sure let me factor that into my TCA / Ratho sessions *rolls eyes*

Okay. So, more useful might be to rewind back to the late winter sport trip where I really struggled (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2016/03/discomfort-zonas.html), and conditions were less of an issue - compared to routes being reachy, or really hard to read with endless blind pockets, at least. Physically though, there are a few common threads:

1. Getting generally pumped on relentless trad.

> I can train a bit for this by doing laps on routes and TCA stamina circuits.

2. Powering out on short sections of steep ground and intense climbing.

> I can train a bit for this by doing more climbing on steep ground, this has previously been identified as a weakness of mine. I've started doing some sets on the 45' foot-on rung ladder at TCA, partly because I've got an injured wrist and it requires little twisting, but I think it should be relevant. I'll also do more nu comp wall routes at Ratho when it warms up.

3. Getting stressed and tunnel-visioned in the above situation and missing options.

> This I am not so sure about as it's partly mental. I can try to focus on looking around me whenever I'm challenged indoors, try to spend a bit more time on the holds to get used to hanging around. General fitness and general climbing fitness will probably beneficial as the problem goes along with being tired, out of breath, etc.

So that's a start. As mentioned my wrist is tweaked (annoyingly from doing eccentric wrist curls to try to prevent further tweaking to my elbow!) which limits what I can currently train on normal indoor holds by about 50%. I'm trying to work around that with more board and fingerboard work.

I still need a lot more regular grit partners though. I haven't been down once yet. Fuck living up here.

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: Back once again....
Post by: creedence on January 26, 2017, 01:35:40 pm
3. Getting stressed and tunnel-visioned in the above situation and missing options.

> This I am not so sure about as it's partly mental. I can try to focus on looking around me whenever I'm challenged indoors, try to spend a bit more time on the holds to get used to hanging around. General fitness and general climbing fitness will probably beneficial as the problem goes along with being tired, out of breath, etc.

I don't know if you've read Vertical Mind, but there is a chapter in there (and I'm paraphrasing from memory so excuse any inaccuracies) about having certain triggers/keywords to use in various situations.

The one I found the most useful is for the situation you describe.  Basically, when you feel the tunnel vision/stress setting in, close your eyes, take two deep breaths, and say 'reset' in your head.

And use this as trigger to reset yourself, and return to moving well.  Takes a bit of mental practice, and obviously won't be for everyone, but I find it works quite well...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 26, 2017, 02:03:46 pm
Good thought. I'll try to work something out that way.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on January 26, 2017, 02:56:53 pm
Apparently you can reinforce the trigger by establishing it in situations where you are calm already, and triggering can set you into that calm state of mind.

Or it might be all psycho mumbo jumbo.
Title: Re: Back once again....
Post by: Stewart on January 26, 2017, 04:15:28 pm
I still need a lot more regular grit partners though. I haven't been down once yet. Fuck living up here.

Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Maybe there's a reason for that. I would offer to partner you but the one time i did a couple of years back you blew me off at the last minute for a better offer so fuck that.  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: Back once again....
Post by: Fiend on January 26, 2017, 04:29:34 pm
Maybe there's a reason for that. I would offer to partner you but the one time i did a couple of years back you blew me off at the last minute for a better offer so fuck that.  :icon_beerchug:
Thanks...

I don't always get it right with partners, especially with weather and travelling and climbing goals involved -  please can you remind me clearly of the situation where I blew you off at the last minute for a better offer, so I can either explain it or learn from it.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Nibile on January 26, 2017, 04:45:49 pm
Good thought. I'll try to work something out that way.
Or, you Can fully embrace the stress, Revel in it and smash Big things with a heavy sledgehammer.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 28, 2017, 11:41:40 am
Stewart, a pity you couldn't remind me of the circumstances of me blowing you off so I could either explain or apologise. Suffice to say that shit happens, sometimes I get it wrong, sometimes other people get it wrong and let me down too, but quite often there's reasons or it doesn't matter so much and I get out climbing with them at a later day.

Overall yes there is a reason for that (lack of grit / winter trad partners) - simply being in the wrong place.
Title: Costa Blanca v4.0
Post by: comPiler on January 28, 2017, 01:00:13 pm
Costa Blanca v4.0 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/01/costa-blanca-v40.html)
28 January 2017, 11:41 am



The one glimmer of hope this winter has been a Spanish trip of Costa Blanca B2B Albarracin, which was really a very pleasant experience. I went to Costa with Big Bob, the clue is in the name although we had separate bedrooms in our budget apartment, and I only fell off two routes using his unspeakably bad gigantalope beta. He'd already booked the time in CB but wasn't very keen because a previous trip had been characterised by polish, heat, and losing the will to live. I was desperate to get away and almost none of the many other climbers I know were available, but wasn't very keen as after 3 trips I thought I'd climbed out CB. It turns out that even in the old guidebook there's loads of crags I hadn't visited, and with careful choice we only had one warm afternoon and a grand total of 2 polished routes (one of which being a *** F6a+) in the whole trip.

I started the trip in possibly the most useless state I've ever started a trip: Woefully under-trained, the usual tweaked elbow, a less usual tweaked wrist, tweaked lower back from a crimpy rockover at GCC (what? how?), full up to the hair follicles with the manflu, and one blocked ear that didn't depressurise on landing in Alicante. So my goal was just to "feel a bit better" and  "climb some nice routes" (ugh how bumbly) and  I did both. The former came on a day when I persuaded Robert to climb in the sun given it was 10'c at midday at Bellus. Too warm for him (apparently there is someone worse than me for coping with the heat), but after failing on a F6b+ because I couldn't even think straight, I onsighted a half hour nap in the sun, did a couple of really nice grey slabs and on the hour bimble back to Calpe started to feel better instead of exhausted.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6Pbxyetm-c8/WIn2Xy8OF6I/AAAAAAAAB50/YehyyEWqLKAjl1_FLVjGfJqCgCN4G0k1ACLcB/s400/twat.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6Pbxyetm-c8/WIn2Xy8OF6I/AAAAAAAAB50/YehyyEWqLKAjl1_FLVjGfJqCgCN4G0k1ACLcB/s1600/twat.jpg)Fat, weak, ill, injured, what a knob. Regular readers will be pleased to hear the trousers didn't make it back alive.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oHc4uwGDHQU/WIn2ZeRgVwI/AAAAAAAAB54/tDBAlQ9YL_Mz1gmbyaeuFAsQHTHKVGzaACLcB/s400/costasky.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oHc4uwGDHQU/WIn2ZeRgVwI/AAAAAAAAB54/tDBAlQ9YL_Mz1gmbyaeuFAsQHTHKVGzaACLcB/s1600/costasky.jpg)First evening view from Altea Col. Obviously the illness is going to clear up rapidly, if not the fatness nor knobness.

The latter came throughout the trip, and what I lacked in tackling harder routes, I made up for in an unerring ability to choose awesome easier ones ;). Highlights included Arte Del Olvido at Sella Shady Side which was an absolutely massive pitch up an endless line of resting pockets, Gandalf at L'Ocaive which had an amazing continuously technical headwall miles above anything, and Espresso at Los Pinos which I'd backed off ill on our first full day and did pretty smoothly on our last day. And of course the mega Tuna Steak Of Glory - a huge slab at £9 a kilo from the supermarket, Salted, flash fried, and served on a bed of bulgar wheat, sliced swordfish (£12 a kilo), asparagus, with fresh mint and fresh lemon. If I'd paid £15+ in a restaurant for this I'd be happy.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IdEhncV0nBM/WIn3boEOHLI/AAAAAAAAB6A/9DZiJO5E7TclftfLJz93Wm6mwlEjQvO0gCLcB/s400/tuna1.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IdEhncV0nBM/WIn3boEOHLI/AAAAAAAAB6A/9DZiJO5E7TclftfLJz93Wm6mwlEjQvO0gCLcB/s1600/tuna1.jpg)   Kill it some more, just in case!

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZUZhLjMjzf0/WIn3b2R6BmI/AAAAAAAAB6E/oEm1kQ59F48Ym3mxW3XOORCt8SA95VdwgCLcB/s400/tuna2.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZUZhLjMjzf0/WIn3b2R6BmI/AAAAAAAAB6E/oEm1kQ59F48Ym3mxW3XOORCt8SA95VdwgCLcB/s1600/tuna2.jpg)Best tick of the trip. Note the Amstel 0,0 - I'm trying. It was pretty bogging. San Miguel 0,0 is the one whilst in Espana.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VdImTRFqLQw/WIn3cDKqwEI/AAAAAAAAB6I/J0fFcfhVUoIrCIlD4tCXn83DhBh1i5OGACLcB/s400/carplaza.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VdImTRFqLQw/WIn3cDKqwEI/AAAAAAAAB6I/J0fFcfhVUoIrCIlD4tCXn83DhBh1i5OGACLcB/s1600/carplaza.jpg)There was even time in the long dark evenings for a spot of light cruising at a local plaza. This is a 1/28 scale WLToys P929 with an upgraded motor and my own LED lighting rig. It's the size of my hand and I clocked it at 23mph before Xmas.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Albarracin v2.0
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2017, 01:00:07 pm
Albarracin v2.0 (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/01/albarracin-v20.html)
30 January 2017, 10:51 am



The second leg of the trip involved one rest day, collecting my own hire car from Alicante, being rather pleased that the budget option had been upgraded to a Ford Focus with 2k on the clock, 6 gears, cruise control etc etc, going for a chilled long drive cross country to Valencia, calmly negotiating Valencia city centre with it's 5 lane unmarked roundabouts and associated swerving traffic in search of a model shop for spare wheel nuts, and a Decathlon for spare power vests, thankfully I resisted:

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_NRnWrz83_k/WIn7ZQBehnI/AAAAAAAAB6U/VE777BdASSk6Ehtopf-xMLCP66UIlgUDgCLcB/s400/vests.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_NRnWrz83_k/WIn7ZQBehnI/AAAAAAAAB6U/VE777BdASSk6Ehtopf-xMLCP66UIlgUDgCLcB/s1600/vests.jpg)Nope.

I survived all of this and then on pulling into the parking in Alba village, scratched the side of the car. Cocks. No I don't want to spend the same amount as the fucking car hire on excess-negating insurance, but equally I don't want to be charged £230 to repair this:

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wWFTnINwxbE/WIn8GcQEkwI/AAAAAAAAB6c/htJb-VkF2yQzUY4EUdcN9T5ljzViDjAVQCLcB/s400/fuckoff.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wWFTnINwxbE/WIn8GcQEkwI/AAAAAAAAB6c/htJb-VkF2yQzUY4EUdcN9T5ljzViDjAVQCLcB/s1600/fuckoff.jpg)£230 per door with minor damage. The front door could conceivably cost 2/3 of that to fix. The 5cm micro-dent and 1cm chip on the rear door, yeah fucking right.

The car hire guy didn't deny his company were "completely criminal" for this overcharging. Yeah I scraped the car, yeah I should pay for the repairs, so charge me for the fucking REPAIRS (and the lost earnings for time of the road). Thankfully I still had independent generic excess-negating insurance and amazingly after sending them every imaginable document to do with my trip from a graph plotting the tyre pressure on each kilometre travelled to a list of which Alba problems were the most badly graded to a page of estimated lengths of all the hire company staff's anal beards with no more than 15% deviance, they actually paid up. So go to carhireexcess.com and give them a go.

After all this debacle there was some climbing, not a lot each day but a decent amount overall, along with walking all over the forest reccing all the areas I thought were available pre-bird ban but turns out after not available as it's been upgraded to a perma-ban, ooops. I climbed okay, I'm still rubbish on the mega-burly roofs and still okay on the soft-touch sloper problems, that might be something to do with the conditions which were outrageously good, 6 days of perfect sun, light breeze, sub-freezing nights and shade, and humidity so low that I got dry skin patches on my arms. Wow. This is the sort of climate I should be in rather than the fucking rank troglodyte shit up here and in the UK in general. So yeah the slopers felt lovely and my elbow actually got better without the damp and the anti-hydral just worked enough. On the last day I woke up barely able to move my wrist, my shoulders in knots, 3 small blood blisters on my fingers, and it was drizzling. Time to go home.

As well as the climbing I had fun hanging out with Kelvin and Anna and a TCA/GCC crew, and also building precarious tripods from fallen pine branches, so this happened of course (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaCFcDTQCXU).

Here have some photos:

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bsg-zclV_ug/WIoIKPTWEKI/AAAAAAAAB7A/fheGbcPLZcMni4wGK7jdl8CYfvp3Vf04ACLcB/s400/goodmorningalba.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bsg-zclV_ug/WIoIKPTWEKI/AAAAAAAAB7A/fheGbcPLZcMni4wGK7jdl8CYfvp3Vf04ACLcB/s1600/goodmorningalba.jpg)Good morning Albarracin! It is a lovely village to wake up to, although I was too lazy to walk up into it this time.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uN6TVSKgwU4/WIoIHn3UJpI/AAAAAAAAB60/aIC9RW4M-QUlooyfclIL5VoVCulvZAjiACLcB/s400/albacairn.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uN6TVSKgwU4/WIoIHn3UJpI/AAAAAAAAB60/aIC9RW4M-QUlooyfclIL5VoVCulvZAjiACLcB/s1600/albacairn.jpg) Finding a 7A roof at Psicokiller too hard for me, I did this instead. 6C/+ , took me 3 attempts.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2k9b9tuvtM8/WIoIGUslWXI/AAAAAAAAB6w/R3h7RHBroTYCZKPp4J6pmGNxH1xZlmNLgCLcB/s400/albagato2.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2k9b9tuvtM8/WIoIGUslWXI/AAAAAAAAB6w/R3h7RHBroTYCZKPp4J6pmGNxH1xZlmNLgCLcB/s1600/albagato2.jpg) Grumpy gato. None of them wanted to be my friend.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TxD9G0V0_W0/WIoIGLgyWwI/AAAAAAAAB6s/jYCu6gxa_Tc24eu6WPFBDu_DAP-hn7PRACLcB/s400/albagatos.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TxD9G0V0_W0/WIoIGLgyWwI/AAAAAAAAB6s/jYCu6gxa_Tc24eu6WPFBDu_DAP-hn7PRACLcB/s1600/albagatos.jpg) More grumpy gatos. Even away from the village centre it's all pretty nice.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ivciSn3cTiY/WIoII9IIO2I/AAAAAAAAB68/wD-mcREWybsFfKSrMPKAJmXexHP9x8AVwCLcB/s400/balconyperro2.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ivciSn3cTiY/WIoII9IIO2I/AAAAAAAAB68/wD-mcREWybsFfKSrMPKAJmXexHP9x8AVwCLcB/s1600/balconyperro2.jpg) Just chilling on a balcony, why not eh.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GtTwaq1-N-8/WIoIIq0P9VI/AAAAAAAAB64/Qh1xv51MPw4wCBWB3drUgZ8anwgVk-kFACLcB/s400/balconyperro.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GtTwaq1-N-8/WIoIIq0P9VI/AAAAAAAAB64/Qh1xv51MPw4wCBWB3drUgZ8anwgVk-kFACLcB/s1600/balconyperro.jpg) Balcony perro bossing it.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0ItF9ODoYzM/WIoIL4p3kWI/AAAAAAAAB7E/XeYTrnJPgA4mpDUGoIT2y5JGK7NQldCUwCLcB/s400/goodmorningalba2.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0ItF9ODoYzM/WIoIL4p3kWI/AAAAAAAAB7E/XeYTrnJPgA4mpDUGoIT2y5JGK7NQldCUwCLcB/s1600/goodmorningalba2.jpg) Well fortified against hordes of traveling boulderers.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RtC11PWhscQ/WIoIM-SJvFI/AAAAAAAAB7M/Y8u6YuuGmKcfPFQ-4pcjfQkInCz3AuB1wCLcB/s400/mossandtrees.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RtC11PWhscQ/WIoIM-SJvFI/AAAAAAAAB7M/Y8u6YuuGmKcfPFQ-4pcjfQkInCz3AuB1wCLcB/s1600/mossandtrees.jpg) Moss and trees. This was the first day during when I started exploring at 11am and finally started bouldering at 4pm. I had felt pretty nauseous for no good reason. The last 2 hours were good though!

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eeWiVKjNEH8/WIoIMi9OvyI/AAAAAAAAB7I/21A1AYiGkLsjYgEFnAJKZ-GeG7niLwfnQCLcB/s400/shopperro.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eeWiVKjNEH8/WIoIMi9OvyI/AAAAAAAAB7I/21A1AYiGkLsjYgEFnAJKZ-GeG7niLwfnQCLcB/s1600/shopperro.jpg) Sofa Boulder perro. So cute and fluffy.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ig_pNseaUVg/WIoIsixT6pI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/cYSBAp7nG38AXD7EUIGtWDxBgVbyOG0FgCLcB/s400/pizzaodoom.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ig_pNseaUVg/WIoIsixT6pI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/cYSBAp7nG38AXD7EUIGtWDxBgVbyOG0FgCLcB/s1600/pizzaodoom.jpg)Dinner for one. Is this suitable for the unfit and overweight punter, even after being active all day and just snacking on persimons and hazelnuts?? Probably not. Then again I saw an 8B boulderer eat a similar pizza, albeit topped with pears and ham. Hmmm.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: A bit disappointing.
Post by: comPiler on February 26, 2017, 07:00:06 pm
A bit disappointing. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/02/a-bit-disappointing.html)
26 February 2017, 5:30 pm



Warning: This post contains some criticism. If there's any issue with that, please take it as customer feedback, from a fairly dedicated customer.

New guidebooks are exciting - proper new guidebooks that is. Modern, locally researched, extensively updated, characterful definitive guides, rather than mundane honeypotting recycled select guides. New information, accurate coverage, the full spectrum of venues covered and their value overhauled and recently assessed. That always fills me with psyche.

The new Lancashire Rock guidebook is exciting - it manages to escape the archaic shackles of The Brick, going from one of the worst old guides to the best modern guides. All the classic quarries presented in exhilarating detail, along with many appealing minor and hidden gem venues that have me itching to kick off the trad season with some Lancs suntraps.

Given the general quality of the tome, it was surprising to go to the Egerton section and find two new (well, a decade new) routes missing, including one that's had several photos and an entry on the country's largest climbing website for 10 years (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=47328#photos) , and one that fills a pretty obvious gap (yes a bit eliminate but not nearly as eliminate as a starred E1 we did at Lower Montcliffe, nor as odd a line as the spaghetti junction of link-ups at Summit Quarry).

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZrA7e8tT05I/WJ2SB0FTogI/AAAAAAAAB88/xf7EKu5TPvgoGY7sa-J_3WtwL8k0dQ_YACLcB/s400/1-egerton1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZrA7e8tT05I/WJ2SB0FTogI/AAAAAAAAB88/xf7EKu5TPvgoGY7sa-J_3WtwL8k0dQ_YACLcB/s1600/1-egerton1.jpg)Did no-one look at the gap to the right of the climber (larger than the gap that separates the two HVSes right again), and think "I wonder if something's been done up there?"

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G-J4sdVaHns/WJ2SEg5E0CI/AAAAAAAAB9M/ExaJwX2mOso-I-gI70Wh0WcP6myP7xGOQCLcB/s400/2-egerton2.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G-J4sdVaHns/WJ2SEg5E0CI/AAAAAAAAB9M/ExaJwX2mOso-I-gI70Wh0WcP6myP7xGOQCLcB/s1600/2-egerton2.jpg)Corrected topo for Egerton's Wood Buttress. Feel free to print it off and stick it over the current page.

Obviously I'm only writing about this because I really care about the fame and the glory and want to see my climbing artworks immortalised in print. No, really. *Rolls eyes*. Actually it's more to do with this being an example of accurate research and information, or the lack thereof. The rest of the guide seems great but it gets me worried how much I can trust it when something fairly obvious (if minor) is missing....

I asked about this - very neutrally, just asking for information - on the Lancashire Rock Revival Facebook page, and the consensus answer I got was that many of the team didn't use UKC for information and had personal issues with the website. Hmmm. I'll try to avoid raising too many of my own personal issues with people who choose to ignore the UK's biggest online climbing resource while researching a national guidebook, but that is just bloody idiotic. I'm no fan of UKC per se, I've been banned twice, fallen out with a lot of people due to my chronic intolerance of morons, and have no love for the Rockfax parent company, but like it or not, it IS a resource, it DOES contain information, and it should NOT be ignored. Sure, due to the aforementioned morons the information and opinions should not be taken as gospel, but at the very least the information available should always be considered, factored in, or used to raise questions for further research.

Take this for example:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=53718 - terrible photo, useless caption, distracting banter - 30 seconds to click on my profile - email user "I've seen this photo of you, is this actually a new route and can you supply full details of it?". Or this: https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=261322 - "Can you confirm that Hot Rubber should be E3 and supply any more details?"

The latter comes from another recent release that was thrilling to me initially but has had plenty of frustrating moments: Bosigran And The North Coast. Again, by CC's standards, a refreshingly semi-modern update after the previous unprogressive reprint, lots of topos, clear design, well presented information....but not all of it is accurate enough due to some pretty simple lapses:

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FUwBUPigQ00/WJ2SHeQ8syI/AAAAAAAAB9Q/QYWbvYrTRx4yUo5EIaA29j00by5IqVt7gCLcB/s400/4-bosigran1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FUwBUPigQ00/WJ2SHeQ8syI/AAAAAAAAB9Q/QYWbvYrTRx4yUo5EIaA29j00by5IqVt7gCLcB/s1600/4-bosigran1.jpg)

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ABKdZ9x3B4A/WJ2SII2JbNI/AAAAAAAAB9Y/kezjm8yfh9c4rnFVC14ZWFdHSB_jJSdWwCLcB/s400/5-bosigran2.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ABKdZ9x3B4A/WJ2SII2JbNI/AAAAAAAAB9Y/kezjm8yfh9c4rnFVC14ZWFdHSB_jJSdWwCLcB/s1600/5-bosigran2.jpg)Thick Wall Special line is wrong on not one but both Bosigran topos, despite the clash between this line and Visions Of Johanna being fairly apparent. Not the most classic Bosi route but very worthwhile as a rare steep slab in it's own right.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7a4lI9nuy8g/WJ2SH0uY8YI/AAAAAAAAB9U/J0lDNZqCdSUqgjv9CMf3Xe_GqBFeZR1SgCLcB/s400/6-pednkei.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7a4lI9nuy8g/WJ2SH0uY8YI/AAAAAAAAB9U/J0lDNZqCdSUqgjv9CMf3Xe_GqBFeZR1SgCLcB/s1600/6-pednkei.jpg)Pedn Kei West is a great wee cliff despite the precarious belay slope above, and really could have done with a topo especially as Pete Saunders managed to get one on UKC (https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=270612).

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ANwh4sYGDOY/WJ2SJ4L6p_I/AAAAAAAAB9c/VizYGWA2DRIwcX0Nr4DS2uuEt-WdUj-6QCLcB/s400/7-rabman.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ANwh4sYGDOY/WJ2SJ4L6p_I/AAAAAAAAB9c/VizYGWA2DRIwcX0Nr4DS2uuEt-WdUj-6QCLcB/s1600/7-rabman.jpg)This photo seems to show part of the cliff with a 3 star hidden gem on it....why not show it properly??

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cev8ReGnadg/WJ2SKkNbe-I/AAAAAAAAB9g/m22jFM0PfsIbe7_dUbRgP-PC3b4mREHbQCLcB/s400/8-carnvellan.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cev8ReGnadg/WJ2SKkNbe-I/AAAAAAAAB9g/m22jFM0PfsIbe7_dUbRgP-PC3b4mREHbQCLcB/s1600/8-carnvellan.jpg)Carn Vellan is a great cliff that is far more than chopped bolts and controversy. The main slab warrants having it's low Extremes well described and shown.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xsvbJz3qGA8/WJ2SK8He5TI/AAAAAAAAB9k/gzwp3VV-F1QX3o84fYsMmtdAq-_Duk7XgCLcB/s400/9-freedom.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xsvbJz3qGA8/WJ2SK8He5TI/AAAAAAAAB9k/gzwp3VV-F1QX3o84fYsMmtdAq-_Duk7XgCLcB/s1600/9-freedom.jpg)Freedom Zawn, another great and grand killas arena. The main wall is pretty adventurous and not the sort of place you want to be totally off route. The topo is as wrong as wrong gets.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7ugCbtCYCVg/WJ2SBjEB_lI/AAAAAAAAB84/LpZ8PvFK4SYkKChe_Ws3iVrymR2WwmKugCLcB/s400/10-aire1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7ugCbtCYCVg/WJ2SBjEB_lI/AAAAAAAAB84/LpZ8PvFK4SYkKChe_Ws3iVrymR2WwmKugCLcB/s1600/10-aire1.jpg)Pretty sure Aire Point wasn't thoroughly checked if the grades and stars of the adjacent E3s haven't been sorted out.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IWYUMIvMzYw/WJ2SCBifEwI/AAAAAAAAB9A/ZXLsiyzrMAsy-HsJ0FNq2vuTmL6Uza_4QCLcB/s400/11-aire2.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IWYUMIvMzYw/WJ2SCBifEwI/AAAAAAAAB9A/ZXLsiyzrMAsy-HsJ0FNq2vuTmL6Uza_4QCLcB/s1600/11-aire2.jpg)Photo captions are a minor deal but perhaps symptomatic.

Again at least two or three of these, if not more, could have been avoided by more online research. And like Lancashire, Cornwall is a classic and varied area that really deserves to have it's qualities fully highlighted in an reliable guide. Hopefully this issue will be rectified for the forthcoming Chair Ladder & Lizard, and especially the next North Devon & Cornwall guide, which will likely be the last definitive print guide to such a wild, complex, and adventurous area, and as such it would be really nice to see a supreme quality guide to match the climbing and last the years to come.

Obviously if I know of information that's not being used, I should try to help out. Equally obviously I didn't know it would be ignored for those guides, particularly since I'm currently very non-local to the areas. I will be more diligent in the future - for ND&C I've joined the Facebook group and emailed in feedback, as well as spending a good couple of hours sorting out the Carn Gowla UKC page (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=314) after it was left in an unusable mess by the previous moderator who is apparently a local expert but doesn't think UKC has any useful information, and was quite blase about a dangerous sandbag like Demerara (VS going on E2) being left unchanged because "You don't really get people climbing those grades at Carn Gowla" - when a quick look at UKC shows Gowla VSes with 70 recorded ascents......

Last but not least at the opposite end of the country, the new Highland Outcrops. SMC guides are being dragged screaming and kicking into the year 2000, and will get to modern standards eventually especially when they show all the lines on topos, but they're certainly an improvement over previous ancient books. However the latest HO, while inspiring in many ways not least the astonishing breadth of coverage, does fall down in some very similar areas.

The Glen Shian slab was an obsession of mine for many years - an immaculate slab of lovely sheer schist with acclaimed video footage of E10 first ascents but no useful information available. Eventually I got there, had a great time and set about rectifying it's obscurity (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=21076). Again my excitement for the new guidebook was slightly diminished to see a woefully inadequate entry for this crag. Now I know that Andy Nisbet as one of the dozen active trad climbers in the Highlands had a lot on his plate writing the guide, I know he probably didn't have a big team to check online resources.....except in this case he had seen my UKC entry (and for Dome Buttress which he rightly asked me to take down the topo of) and had even used my photo as the basis for the Glen Shian topo. So why not use, or at least question, the accompanying information??

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1VYE7mmgTwM/WJ2SEixrpLI/AAAAAAAAB9I/xSFulHtHk2EQhjAT7XFQ_DDodxk2UhXLACLcB/s400/12-shian1.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1VYE7mmgTwM/WJ2SEixrpLI/AAAAAAAAB9I/xSFulHtHk2EQhjAT7XFQ_DDodxk2UhXLACLcB/s1600/12-shian1.jpg)Missing descriptions, unedited grades....(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lOFKlvJ5Z8I/WJ2SED7zGAI/AAAAAAAAB9E/d9bWXhQEkgABCgQG5-A0FRXmm9WIPvIzwCLcB/s400/13-shian2.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lOFKlvJ5Z8I/WJ2SED7zGAI/AAAAAAAAB9E/d9bWXhQEkgABCgQG5-A0FRXmm9WIPvIzwCLcB/s1600/13-shian2.jpg)....sparse descriptions, mis-applied stars...

The end result is that one of the best accessible mid-high grade single pitch slabs in Scotland (not a common feature) might not be well described enough to tempt the mid-Extreme leader over to have as good a time as we did. Again, yes I wish I'd been involved, I didn't know it would end up like this - and receiving a "Fiend, you seem to like this crag, do you want to write it up properly for the guide" would have spurred me into action, 6 hour round trip and all.

TL,DR: Guidebook writers, regardless of your personal issues with online resources, they are still resources to be used, even only to raise questions for further research - please do so!!



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: The RC Car hobby.
Post by: comPiler on February 27, 2017, 01:00:59 am
The RC Car hobby. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/02/the-rc-car-hobby.html)
26 February 2017, 8:15 pm



I like radio controlled cars. I liked the idea of them as a 10 year old, and a long time later I like them in the metal and plastic. It's quite nice getting involved with a new hobby and new culture (with people like the madly cackling RCSparks (https://www.youtube.com/user/djmedic2008/videos) providing regular inspiration), cruising them, breaking them, upgrading them, posting on forums and going from being a complete noob to someone who gets gratitude for helping other people online.

So I thought I'd write a beginner's post about it, in the context of the completely separate climbing community which is of course where my heart and life's purpose still lies.

Should you get involved in the RC Hobby?? Hell yeah. It's not that expensive if you choose right, it doesn't take up that much time to go out and cruise with an RC car, choose the right car and you can do it when the weather is shit, choose the right driving style and you shouldn't need to do much repairing or maintenance, and there's a wide choice of approach from a £40 micro you mess around with inside to an £800 1/5 scale monster that's infinitely upgradeable and can mince all over the roughest terrain. Pick what suits YOU.

(In terms of the climbing lifestyle it has no benefits as an additional hobby apart from possibly night time / wet weather driving with the right set-up. And major repair work is a good warm-up for the fingers pre-training. OTOH go to an empty crag with an off road RC shoved into your sack and it might be fun while resting between attempts on your SICK PROJ RIG, who knows ;)).

Start by considering the size you want and the style of driving that appeals because there's a lot of choice. I wanted to do some bashing and jumping and happened to choose the HPI Savage XS, it's not cheap at all but is an absolute beast (https://vimeo.com/186073318), very fast, jumps well (https://vimeo.com/188205813), cruises over all terrain (https://vimeo.com/190927251). Then I wanted something smaller to try in the flat and maybe out at local carparks (the Savage is waaaay too powerful) so I got a Carisma GT24TR which is really nice for speed cruising (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghD45hP4asU) and small jumps (https://vimeo.com/192922356), and a WLToys P929 which is cheap, tiny but solid and fast (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOdg1TZXdEQ), although things do break easy at smaller scales. It's a different choice for everyone. But there's one essential pre-purchase step: Check the model you're choosing has spares readily available. Trust me on this.

Have some information:

Types of RC car usage:

Racing: Proper RC for people who can actually control them well ;). Needs a proper track (on-road for race cars, off-road for buggies) but not necessarily hugely competitive.

Speed runs: Tinkering and testing to go as stupidly, pointlessly fast as possible in a straight line. Usually needs a GPS logger like SkyRC and a dweebish attitude towards endless upgrading (so one for road cyclists then).

Drifting: Pimped up cars, low bodies, slick wheels, smooth surfaces, and all your Fast And Furious fantasies. Quite niche but good for small areas and indoor fun.

Cruising: General generic driving, on or off-road, just getting out and having fun.

Bashing: "Drive it like you stole it", "If you didn't break it you ain't doing it right". Jumps, bumps, humps, drops, skate parks, and a lot of time ordering spares online. Great fun.

Trail driving: Taking your car out for a walk. Generally on rougher terrain with a slower car than you'd have for cruising, one for the explorers.

Crawling: Extreme trail driving with extremely slow but agile cars, basically climbing over rocks, chasms, stream beds, the more awkward the better.

Scales:

Large scale: 1/8 - 1/6 - 1/5 , often nitro/petrol powered rather than electric, very expensive and big.

Normal scale: 1/10 - 1/12-ish , nitro/petrol or electric, expensive-ish but lots of choice.

Mini scale: 1/14 - 1/16 - 1/18, mostly electric, still lots of hobby-grade choice.

Micro scale: 1/24 - 1/36 and below, electric, still a good choice but not so many high end models.

Grades:

Toy grade - cheap, can be fast and agile, but not upgradeable, not repairable, and might not have a good transmitter. Skip an evening in the pub and get hobby grade.

Hobby grade - "proper" RC, from budget to luxury. Cheaper ones are not necessarily much fancier than toy grade but will likely be better materials and components, and likely to be upgradeable and repairable - the former aspect is fun, the latter aspect is very useful.

Ready To Run (RTR) - most RC cars come like this these days. Just add batteries. You can often still dismantle them to the base components though!

Kit form - much rarer than it used to be, although Tamiya still do plenty. You get less choice but if you really want to build something, go for it.

UK Shops:

Steve Webb (https://www.stevewebb.co.uk/) - my cousin's shop so I have to give him a shout out. The website is a bit hopeless but they have loads of other stock in store and a lot of expertise. If you live near Chester pop in to the shop in Frodsham in person.

Modelsport (https://www.modelsport.co.uk/)

Wheelspin (http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/)

RCGeeks (http://stores.ebay.co.uk/rcgeeksuk)

There are many more but I've used those regularly.

Forums:

RC Groups (https://www.rcgroups.com/cars-45/)

Ultimate RC (http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=259)

RC Universe (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-cars-buggies-trucks-tanks-more-225/)

R/C Tech (http://www.rctech.net/forum/)

These are invariably American so it can be a bit frustrating when you see a really cool looking car with a big thread discussing all the options, then find out 98% of the stock goes to China and America and it's only available in the UK from one Hong Kong exporter who charges £45 postage and it will take 8 weeks to get here by which time the manufacturer has discontinued it and you can't get any spares.

Good makes:

It really depends what you're after but some good names are: Kyosho, Tamiya, HPI (& Maverick), Traxxas (& La Trax), Dromida, Associated, Losi, Carisma, WLToys and FTX.

If any of this is slightly useful, then in the words in RCSparks "get out there any enjoy the RC hobby" :)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on February 27, 2017, 10:18:55 am
Got one in the cupbord I think Kyle is just about ready for. Only a cheapie, good to progress from RC Thomas the Tank Engine.

Got an RC Helicopter too, controls are so easy on new ones, but battery life is terrible.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 27, 2017, 10:50:26 am
LOL, compiler really does not like embedded vimeo links on blogspot  ::) :slap: :wall:

Go Kyle!

Title: Deus Ex 4: Mankind Divided
Post by: comPiler on March 03, 2017, 07:00:06 pm
Deus Ex 4: Mankind Divided (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/03/deus-ex-4-mankind-divided.html)
3 March 2017, 1:21 pm



(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mhU9hFFmZhc/WLltt13x--I/AAAAAAAAB-E/XjHCCS17kl0We6w5hT3T5pYHttVYoaqgwCLcB/s400/20170302185525_1.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mhU9hFFmZhc/WLltt13x--I/AAAAAAAAB-E/XjHCCS17kl0We6w5hT3T5pYHttVYoaqgwCLcB/s1600/20170302185525_1.jpg)

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrrYlBtpcRY/WLlttcNJkKI/AAAAAAAAB-A/I91WZkZXbAsimaBGoRDGCKkGZj92xjjzACLcB/s400/20170302185541_1.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrrYlBtpcRY/WLlttcNJkKI/AAAAAAAAB-A/I91WZkZXbAsimaBGoRDGCKkGZj92xjjzACLcB/s1600/20170302185541_1.jpg)

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jdxuknurHQw/WLltt82W_HI/AAAAAAAAB-I/x5RyAvwvPhoTlHpRKRXqewp6hpt5CcYwwCLcB/s400/20170302185821_1.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jdxuknurHQw/WLltt82W_HI/AAAAAAAAB-I/x5RyAvwvPhoTlHpRKRXqewp6hpt5CcYwwCLcB/s1600/20170302185821_1.jpg)

Uh.....huh.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: The Train Train.
Post by: comPiler on March 08, 2017, 01:00:33 pm
The Train Train. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/03/the-train-train.html)
8 March 2017, 12:48 pm



A bit like the send train, but far more realistic for this wankshit winter.

My friend Jade posted this link recently: https://www.mountainproject.com/blog/4194/training-ultimate-training-day Interesting stuff, apart from it not being that interesting. A bit like this post no doubt but hey I'm writing it for me so stop reading it, okay? The author lives in Boulder Colorado, it is one of my ultimate aims in life to live in Boulder or SLC or Las Vegas. Fuck American politics, fuck miserable Brits slagging off crass and shallow Yanks, I want to live and climb in the desert (or near it, pedants). Anyway, from the article:

"Show me someone who said they had the time of their life doing weighted  deadhangs all day in the gym, and I’ll show you someone I’d like to slap  in the face."
Show me someone who said they had the time of their life trying to rally some support for a grit trip, driving a 9 hour round trip to shower dodge and do fuck all apart from waste money and get weaker for when the good weather does finally arrive, and I'll show you someone who doesn't live in the fucking desert.

"The last sunset I watched through the windows of the gym  was kind of lackluster if you know what I’m saying."
The last sunset I watched through the windows of the gym was kind of pretty and could have convinced me to try going out climbing if it wasn't for the sodden roads and buildings from the previous showers.

To be fair the weather hasn't been that terrible and it's probably fine if you live next to inspiring rock. To be fair I probably have a similar attitude to the author in that I love exploring diverse and interesting areas to do inspiring rock climbing and training is only ever a means to an end and a necessary evil. But I might as well enjoy and make use of that evil. Last winter sucked arse because I did fuck all rock climbing, but come spring I did fine on the trad and didn't get too strong to pull off too many holds on The Complete Works nor too reliant on bright plastic to miss the smears on The Baldest.

So after a low period I've got back to the gym to give my tweaked wrist a rest, and the weightlifting has fired my body enough that I've felt better at the wall and my wrist is now not as sore as my chronic golfer's elbow so I guess that's progress??

After less than 10 gym sessions and about 4 weightlifting sessions (for the first time in 8+ months?) I managed to get back to all my previous benchmarks (160kg deadlift, 80kg benchpress, 100kg squat, 20kg/arm military press, +25kg pullup) surprisingly quickly. I guess my body has adapted a bit over the years. Actually I've progressed a bit, 165kg DL and 160 more comfortable without straps, deeper squats, 22kg/arm MP (just!). My body feels good after that and I'm sticking to the maxim:

Increasing your 1rm (or at least, working your 3 rep max at 3 sets, say) will give you the best strength increase, for the least hypertrophy. Aka, the best of both worlds.

Anything else will be making you heavy!
As usual I'm mixing in these small sets of large weights with core work, antagonist work, CV, and climbing-relevant work (pulls etc).

Why so much gym stuff?? Firstly I'm too tweaked to train at the wall all the time, if I did more wall sessions I'd be held together by tape and scar tissue and my skin would be fucked. Secondly I'd get a bit bored wall training all the time. Thirdly there are some issues I can train more effectively at the gym (core, legs, CV) which will feed into my climbing one way or another. In short if I didn't go the gym I'd either be less fit or more injured or both.

Of course I go to the wall more and focus on that more, albeit pleasure and fun has a role too! But having some good benchmarks for weights got me curious about aiming for more climbing-strength-specific benchmarks. This is not some miserable abarro81 style PHD-level training plan, it's just having some goals to aim for so I can try a bit harder and maybe get a bit stronger. So I did some tests:

Weighted bar pullups: 1 x +30kg, 2 x +25kg, 3 x +20kg

(Aim: 1 x 40kg )

Weighted BM smallest edges hangs: 3.5s x +20kg, 5s x +15kg, 7s x +10kg

(Aim: Not sure, the weighted ones felt pleasingly hard so I'm keen to try more)

BM smallest edges hangs: 13s

(Aim: Not sure)

BM 30' sloper hangs: 30s

(No aim, too conditions-dependent)

BM 45' sloper hangs: 1.5s

(No aim, too conditions-dependent)

BM smallest edges pull-ups: 4

(Aim: 5 full pull-ups)

Campusing medium rungs: 1:3:4

(Aim: 1:3:5)

(N.B. Pre-dvt / weight gain: Campusing small rungs: 1:3:5)

TCA 45' campus ladder feet on single rungs: 1 full set + 1-2-3-4-5-6-7

(Aim: 2 full sets (2 seconds chalking after drop-off)

TCA 45' campus ladder feet on alternate rungs: 1 full set + 1-3-5-7

(Aim: 2 full sets (2 seconds chalking after drop-off)

TCA 45' campus ladder feet on alternate rungs without twisting body: 1-3-5

(Aim: 1 full set)

Of course most of these are highly dependent on skin, conditions, fingertip soft-tissue pain due to heaviness, etc. So not as pure as lifting a load of metal off the ground ;).

The goal of course....get on Billy Sprag and have good crimp strength to keep pulling on edges, and good thigh strength for any fierce rockovers, Get on Pass The Pigs and have good enough body tension to keep in the layback and have allowed my wrist to heal to hold the roundedness. Get on Woodland Ecology and have enough burl to commit confidently to the moves for the slopey ramp.

Etc etc etc.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re: The Train Train.
Post by: Nibile on March 08, 2017, 02:10:38 pm
"Show me someone who said they had the time of their life doing weighted  deadhangs all day in the gym, and I’ll show you someone I’d like to slap  in the face."

Ahhh the joy of living in the internet era. An era in which every self confident moron can make such a bold statement, and get away with it.
I've never had the "time of my life" doing weighted hangs all day in the gym, but I'd be ready to admit it, only to give this guy the chance to slap me in the face. Then I'd put him on a liquid diet for a few weeks.
Yes, let's make fun of others with different tastes, why not! We have the Truth.
Let's bring everyone down to our lazy mediocrity, but then name drop every top climber we know!
Fucking useless idiot.

Edited: didn't want to offend Americans. Sorry. The guy had me properly pissed.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on March 08, 2017, 02:31:49 pm
 :lol:

'coming again to save the muthafuckin day yeah!'
Title: Banging.
Post by: comPiler on March 21, 2017, 07:00:22 pm
Banging. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/03/banging.html)
21 March 2017, 4:10 pm



Festivals make me smile wryly. I see people posting excitedly on FB about them, then I go to look at the line-up and amongst all the mainstream, indie, student electronica and Radio 1 so-called dance music, there's one act/DJ I'd pay a tenner to see in a local club and two more I'd pop in to see if they were on for free in a pub round the corner and that's it.

Bangface is a bit different. In fact it's a bit different to everything: Not only the antithesis of standard festival mundanity, it's also the antithesis of chinstroking purist dance genre dweebery (too much of a party vibe for that), the antithesis of smart upmarket Londonised clubbing (far too ravey including pretty much a dress anti-code), it's even the antithesis of mid-late 90s raves with separate genre segregation. Look at the timetables below...

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BfIX0R6NS9g/WNE0ocjDzbI/AAAAAAAAB-o/U4YzHjksJNIfLGBVpnaTFLfu1_7tf3MmACLcB/s400/17361706_10155850842554186_4652682210395983019_n.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BfIX0R6NS9g/WNE0ocjDzbI/AAAAAAAAB-o/U4YzHjksJNIfLGBVpnaTFLfu1_7tf3MmACLcB/s1600/17361706_10155850842554186_4652682210395983019_n.jpg)

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B_v2K-zpsUQ/WNE0oMB5bxI/AAAAAAAAB-k/IyAjNqpPlhgvlpLqH2Cuyh3B4YW8mReOwCLcB/s400/17361890_10155850842549186_2385797868131445637_n.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B_v2K-zpsUQ/WNE0oMB5bxI/AAAAAAAAB-k/IyAjNqpPlhgvlpLqH2Cuyh3B4YW8mReOwCLcB/s1600/17361890_10155850842549186_2385797868131445637_n.jpg)

You get ALL of the harder dance genres mashed together along with various off beat and experimental stuff and a crowd that is about 30% die hard raver / crusty, 30% normal people dressed up flamboyantly and ridiculously like the die hard crusty ravers, 30% normal people who forgot their neon and horns and feathers, and a token 10% neds chavs posers etc - a proper dance festival by anyone's standards.

I went to the 2012 weekender which was a bit of a mission since it was 10 hours slog to Newquay and I didn't have enough petrol to get to rave and back on the first night so missed the Outside Agency etc etc, although after it was over I did get some great climbing on the North Cornwall coast. This time was a bit different because it was 3 hour drive and I got a cheap hotel at the Charnock Richard services (really quite disappointing to be coming off at junction  27œ legally but needs must), OTOH the weather was fucking dire so no essential grit hit before during or after. Instead I went to the Manchester Depot, met Julie Andy the Lincoln and the Bennetts which was nice and social, despite a late night (7am) I did really well, the sauna heat shortcutted my warm-up whilst the anti-hydral allowed me to cope with the manky holds (somewhat at odds with the splendor of the wall itself). The best and least injury-hampered session I've had this year.

So back to the banging. Lots of clashes on the flyer but I caught:

Randomer - really good proper techno, helped by a fucking mint soundsystem in room 2, apparently he's more of a *step DJ.

a bit of Ceephax Acid Crew - slow and mundane, I walked through pretty quick.

Om Unit - gripping deep and dark halfstep dnb into some jungle at the end. Not my usual dnb style but I skipped the ever-reliable Dave Clarke cos this sounded so good.

Evol Intent - good neuro / techstep although a bit stop start in places, also there was too much Evol as Dj Hype didn't turn up - a pity as a more jump up jungle set would have broken things up perfectly.

a bit of Radium - bouncy frenchore, seemed to be going down well.

a bit of some Japanese dude - fast happy hardcore gabber, seemed to be quite fun.

Panacea - great set of neuro, techstep, crossbreed insanity. This has been a lonnnng time coming, 20 years in fact when a mate and I were in a record shop overhearing a punter saying "Nah I don't really like that heavy metal drum'n'bass", referring to his Low Profile Darkness album. Many albums, collaborations and a fantastic John Peel birthday set later, his style is a bit more squelchy neuro than super dark dnb, but he still does a great job.

a bit of Detest - good but a bit stop start i.e. a lot of drops into kickdrums but I dunno not as much flow as I hoped.

The Liberators - the opposite, pleasingly relentless banging acid techno, just how you'd expect. Another John Peel favourite and you can see why. They had some issues with decks skipping but the music was on point.

The DJ Producer - another highlight, I didn't think I'd last this long but the man like Producer promised "Facemelt Friday" and he didn't disappoint with a classic set of turntablised gabber, hardcore techno and crossbreed. One of my favourite DJs in the late 90s and he still has it.

Ratpack - a good set of the full spectrum of old skool from rave, funky house, breakbeat, early jungle etc. Not my sort of thing at all but they seemed to do a great job of it. A mellow breakbeat mash-up of the Born Slippy intro melody was a real nice chillout moment.

Ed Solo & Deekline - partly made up for the Hype no show with a proper dancefloor DnB set from modern jump-up back to jungle classics. Good stuff.

Angel - another highlight - I'd recently got some big Angel hype after finding out the Can You See Me track was her, and this was a great set of relentless ebbing and flowing industrial techno and crunchy analogue. Much better than some of the stop start stuff, the dancefloor went from empty to barely-able-to-move (even a grumpy security guard was nodding along) and yes there was much flying limbs at 2:03 above.

Atari Teenage Riot - did exactly what you'd expect. Decent aggressive gabber / breakcore with shouted vocals. I can see why people like them but separate tracks after some of the more crafted DJ sets didn't really inspire me.

a bit of Reso - finished on some great neuro jump up, apparently he's a dubstep DJ and I really wished I'd caught all of his set instead of ATR as a mix blending hard dubstep into DnB would have gone down a treat.

a bit of TQD - bassline house / grime / stuff. Not my personal bag but sounded pretty cool, good to have variety.

Skull Vomit - cheery speed gabber and breakcore, more of my personal bag, fast, silly, and fun.

the end of Bogdan Rathingy - pretty dire, bland and bleepy electronica.

Dieselboy - more proper hard neuro dnb, a good set with some nice slices of more abstract stuff mixed in. The modern hard neuro (astutely coined on Drum And Bass Arena as "Eastern European Sausage Tech") does get a bit samey but Dieselboy and Panacea mixed it up enough.

half of Bong-Ra - I wish he'd been on sooner as I was all out of energy and my feet were too sore to bounce away to his mentalist blend of breakcore, jungle and gabber. I still don't really get 180-200bpm breakcore but I need to give it chance when I'm fresher.

And that was it. First night I stayed until 6am, second night until 4:30am, not bad for someone with no drugs no booze and no mates! Now I have the man-flu so I don't feel like capitalising on the reassuring Depot training session any time soon but hopefully will get out in the decent forecast weather this weekend??



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 22, 2017, 02:46:26 pm
Apparently compiler is not only great at b0rking vimeo links, it's good at missing out embedded youtube videos, this is the missing one above Angel:

http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcqzd69kf
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: fatneck on March 23, 2017, 12:49:17 pm
Quote
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcqzd69kf

Really?!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 23, 2017, 01:08:45 pm
Apparently Fiend is a spectacular imbecile!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHBinDA6-c4
Title: The Grit Season That Never Was....
Post by: comPiler on March 31, 2017, 07:00:06 pm
The Grit Season That Never Was.... (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/03/the-grit-season-that-never-was.html)
31 March 2017, 2:25 pm



....or at least, it started at 5pm on Saturday and finished at 6:30pm. During which time although the rock was too warm and the breeze was obstructively mis-aligned, at least the coolness of the hazy sunset made climbing enjoyable rather than debilitating (especially Dirty Stop Out which is only 8m but has 3 5b cruxes in which is nice). And afterwards it looked like this, which is also nice:

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4uND4obWvvA/WN5BPdoVt0I/AAAAAAAAB-4/UpBRPjNNfqQLsV93KTcH6fmV_w21iy81wCLcB/s400/bamfsky.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4uND4obWvvA/WN5BPdoVt0I/AAAAAAAAB-4/UpBRPjNNfqQLsV93KTcH6fmV_w21iy81wCLcB/s1600/bamfsky.jpg)

Prior to that it looked a lot like a fat weak punter with a chest infection lolling aimlessly on the ground, waking only sporadically to cough up some septic gunk or move vaguely out of the way of someone trying to lead routes above him. I did one warm-up route in the morning, backed off some slopey thing in the sun at lunchtime, and then just basked until dusk. Warm enough to fully sunbathe is not the grit conditions I was looking for. But dry weather and dry rock was something at least, and while bimbling at Bamford surrounded by the Rockfax-clutching hordes was pretty far away from the climbing experience I was after, it served a purpose for easy pottering whilst I recovered (from the Bangface weekends, two 5-7am nights and a big wall session and my immune system obviously fucked off elsewhere).

So yeah this was it, down on the grit at last (I have no special affinity with the grit, being physically unsuited to it and utterly rubbish at it despite thousands of routes, BUT it is the prime winter trad rock so still has much appeal, more so being extra distant from it and anything else that qualifies as prime winter trad with more than a handful of routes left to do). End of March AGAIN, dismal. But I guess not as dismal as not doing it and despite everything I climbed okay. I felt strong and energised the previous Saturday, this one I felt weak as fuck. A week without training - two now I've gone through anti-biotics. I really miss pulling hard. Soon to be 3 weeks of weak  - next week is my brother's wedding on Iona, after that it's back to some serious fucking climbing focus.

Natural grit was "out", exactly a day before I was prone beneath Neb Buttress, idly thinking "the lime really should be called already", the lime had been called. Great minds etc, and I hate Pennine lime. Of course calling of the lime also means calling of the non-grit, be it quartzite or pillow lava or whatever. Or indeed quarried grit, which bridges the gap. So after giving up the 2 hour grit season on Saturday, it was straight into training for proper rock in the Lancs quarries where the usual positive holds gave a bit more positivity in approach. Summit Quarry provided steady mileage, Warland quarry provided seepage and a return fixture, and Egerton provided both a failure (Phantom Zone LH - quite easy but I was simply drained (two nights trying to keep my lungs down)) and a scary success (Satin Sapphire - a classic headgame arete with a reasonably protected crux to a knife-edge rest that provides ample opportunity to panic before an off balance reach to safety. I made good use of that before doing it, it felt a bit early in the season for that sort of malarkey. Unfortunately I missed getting a photo of the situation as it was quite characterful, especially as the one photo on UKC shows some non-ascent of a headpoint failure with side-runners. Hard to believe that someone could waste a cool route in that way but climbers are fucking weird. Now you know, go and do it, there's a lot of great choice on Egerton Sunny Side now).



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Hardcore Will Never Die?
Post by: comPiler on April 18, 2017, 06:37:32 pm
Hardcore Will Never Die? (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/04/hardcore-will-never-die.html)
18 April 2017, 1:56 pm



Maybe The Daily Mash had it right all along (http://www.thedailymash.co.uk/news/science-technology/hardcore-will-never-die-say-scientists-2013071976321) (they usually do, I rarely trust anything unless it's been certified by Prof. Brubraker). It's now 27 years since the release of the first acclaimed hardcore track:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BL5xh-wt3Vc

Part of the retrospectively well-named Visions Of 2017 single. It's now 2017 and as far as I can tell hardcore is still around. About 22-24 years since old skool hardcore split into jungle and happy hardcore, and gabber (now called just "hardcore" - I'll use that term although I am very happy with gabber, and obviously the Daily Mash mean happier hardcore but I'm sure the extensive research at the Institute Of Studies takes into account all sub-genres) rose in parallel in Holland (and America, and the UK). 23 years ago since I first got into hardcore via the quite astonishingly good Technohead 3 compilation:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/0UbPz5v8LVE

...and a similar amount of time since I first went raving to Rotterdam Termination Source at the Doncaster Warehouse. Raves and clubs around the country followed from Dance Planet in Cornwall to Rezerection in Edinburgh. I was always into the harder, darker, faster gabber so was strictly Room2 at Dreamscape / Helter Skelter, and had fun times at Bristol's legendary Death Row Techno and Rhyl's Steam (including a solo mission from Nottingham uni to see Australia's Nasenbluten and Xylocaine along with the UK's HMS and Loftgroover in a night billed as "music to make your eyes bleed :D). Those vibes were perfectly recaptured this last weekend with a French (yup, hardcore is international as well as persistent) invasion of Newcastle:

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OvQGQN1lvcc/WPPVEFJe9AI/AAAAAAAAB_U/n6LYG6vEWpkKwKuYLIw36BTrc7ZVVhq6gCLcB/s400/16903362_10158199923535265_3548662751953275692_o.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OvQGQN1lvcc/WPPVEFJe9AI/AAAAAAAAB_U/n6LYG6vEWpkKwKuYLIw36BTrc7ZVVhq6gCLcB/s1600/16903362_10158199923535265_3548662751953275692_o.jpg)

Excellent dark hardcore from Laurent Ho (who after banging out some industrial beats, hung around the dancefloor wearing a micro-skirt, tight black leggings and 6" heels), and merciless noisecore from the Michelson sisters. Great fun. The tiny club and sparse crowd pales in comparison to the massive Hardshock / Dominator / MOH festivals in Holland but still plenty of fun for the dedicated.

This brings the number of hardcore DJs I've raved to to quite a lot:

3Dom, Angel, Angerfist, Bass Generator, Brisk, Charly Lownoise & Mental Theo, Clarkee, Destroyer, Destructive Tendencies, Detest, Dione/SRB, Dolphin, Easygroove, Evil Activities, Fracture4, Hellfish, HMS, Jay Prescott, Laurent Ho, Lenny Dee, Loftgroover, Mad Tech, Madness, Manu Le Malin, Marc Smith, Mark EG, Mark Newlands, Mastervibe, Mikey B, The Music Maker, Nasenbluten, Neophyte, No Name & Mouse, The Outside Agency, Paul Elstak, Dr Peacock, Partyraiser, The DJ Producer, Rob Gee, Rotterdam Termination Source, Sei2ure, Scorpio, Scott Brown, Smurf, The Suicide Squad, Technotrance, Tieum, Unexist, Warlock, Wargroover, Xylocaine...

I still need to catch Dolphin (his recent output is excellent) N-Vitral (king of the kickdrums, and another near-miss at Twisted's Darkside), TOA again (just too good), and ideally m1dy (absolutely mental and cheerful Japanese speedcore). Unfortunately I'm not sure if Nordcore GMBH are still around as being creators of the consistently best atmospheric darkcore before the millenium, I've missed out if I never rave to this truly fantastic (in any genre, not just hardcore) track being played out:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/r39atbJkhPw

Anyway after a 4:30am bedtime in a cheap motel in Newcastle, partly deaf and with chronic pizza mouth, I headed on a long recce trip around Yorkshire (fantastic breezy and sunny Saturday with no-one around to climb with, grrrr). Dovestones is still very inspiring although Coin For A Beggar is stupidly reachy so that got sacked off. Baildon is also as welcoming as usual, and Wombling Wall looks very reasonable (comments on UKC indicate it might be wrongly graded?). And Hetchell has lots of leading potential rather than just soloing, but the evening was just too good so I had to do something:

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Izjz1MXqItI/WPYK3sCgQUI/AAAAAAAAB_o/CEI7sg6JilgkHJZULLkG4mEfiNIp3TWaACLcB/s400/livia1.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Izjz1MXqItI/WPYK3sCgQUI/AAAAAAAAB_o/CEI7sg6JilgkHJZULLkG4mEfiNIp3TWaACLcB/s1600/livia1.jpg) Livia. Recently cleaned by some bloke on UKC so cheers for that. Decent small cams protect the crux rocking into the groove and possibly the top-out too.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_BwNZhA1hhU/WPYK5fsGejI/AAAAAAAAB_s/k0u-vt3Zl1w3W6Ga9VG9VYCay94QKj4jwCLcB/s400/augustus1.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_BwNZhA1hhU/WPYK5fsGejI/AAAAAAAAB_s/k0u-vt3Zl1w3W6Ga9VG9VYCay94QKj4jwCLcB/s1600/augustus1.jpg)Augustus. Easy technically, bold adjectivally. No real gear on this one. I backed off it a decade or so ago and I can understand why!

After that solo mission, I had a choice of two climbing partners lined up for Yorkshire grit on the next days, so of course Sunday it wanked it down and Monday looked showery so I sacked it off via Eden Rock which is still a great fun venue and I did slightly better than last time. Weather still looks pretty cool and fresh so I'm still dead keen for approx 5,000 different venues around Yorks, Lancs and Cheshire....not sure what the next hardcore rave is though, although there is a Prspct Records night in Bristol (https://www.facebook.com/events/820562424749257/) at the start of May....



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: A Brimham Triptych
Post by: comPiler on April 24, 2017, 01:00:08 pm
A Brimham Triptych (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/04/a-brimham-triptych.html)
24 April 2017, 12:10 pm



The grit season that never was keeps on giving. Fresh WNW-erlies and plenty of cloud cover were providing conditions far better than still sunshine would in half the temperature, so Tris and I hit Lancashire and Yorkshire. Various potterings were done, the highlight of which by far was the following combination of contrasts from the bewildering yet sometimes brilliant Brimham:

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-inY3po91AJc/WP3WkHF0LAI/AAAAAAAACAA/-KNuZjQlhgsaajUmErMxB157PGcnuPAcQCLcB/s400/fiend_brim1a.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-inY3po91AJc/WP3WkHF0LAI/AAAAAAAACAA/-KNuZjQlhgsaajUmErMxB157PGcnuPAcQCLcB/s1600/fiend_brim1a.jpg)MMS. The full name is bollox so that will do. I backed off this on New Year's Eve with Spraggs a few years back. The slopers over this bulge are particularly gritty and confusing, I was just more determined this time. It turns out this crux is fairly naff as the holds lead you almost into Desperation Crack before rocking back out. However the rest of the slab is quite a voyage and makes the route worthwhile - never that hard but committing with some pretty fiddly gear (shallow keylock wires, folded hexes, etc).

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GhjEhpoo764/WP3WjwZJ2BI/AAAAAAAAB_8/s9qF7wULJwgFUEy30UezZqktz5dHh-JsgCLcB/s400/fiend_brim2.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GhjEhpoo764/WP3WjwZJ2BI/AAAAAAAAB_8/s9qF7wULJwgFUEy30UezZqktz5dHh-JsgCLcB/s1600/fiend_brim2.jpg)Rotifer. I backed off this once on the same NYE as it started drizzling, and again last spring with Hobby as the breeze dropped and there was a shower of insects instead of rain and equally bad conditions. I've remembered that gritstone is 70% conditions, 20% reach, and 10% willingness to break limbs. This time the conditions were great, the willingness to break limbs was alleviated by good micro cams in the seam (not even the smallest old alien / camalot size, so this has been a feasible option for 20 years, I suppose you could highball it if you were weird and overendowed with pads, but I preferred the lead), and the reach.....was just enough - fingertips on the top after the 3rd 5c crux. A very cool wee proper grit route.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XPxyGw5L6L4/WP3WkVaFSII/AAAAAAAACAE/Qk99qQb_iyoMITWHd0cxb4FNok4NUn4QgCLcB/s400/fiend_brim3.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XPxyGw5L6L4/WP3WkVaFSII/AAAAAAAACAE/Qk99qQb_iyoMITWHd0cxb4FNok4NUn4QgCLcB/s1600/fiend_brim3.jpg)Beatnik. In a change from tradition, I've never backed off this. It was only vaguely on my radar as a potential option being at least protectable. It turns out the protectable bit is probably the crux, placing the gear at my feet and baws in the photo being pretty brutal, whilst the climbing was good honest grating fun. Bonus star for the perfect Friend 6 on the skyline.

So there we go. An OCD-sating 3x3 of 3 wholesomely varied styles. I nearly made it 4x3 with a long overdue solo of Acme Wall but the 20% reach 10% limb-breaking were far too prominent so that will have to wait. Unfortunately I managed to put myself out of action in a much tamer but much stupider way than groundfalling - in the hostel after this day I sliced my finger pad peeling back a half-open food tin, after looking directly at it and thinking "This is stupid, I should wrap a towel around it" and then somehow doing it with my fingers anyway. COMPLETE FUCKING BELLEND. Still, it should heal within the week and I was training back 3 and core etc at TCA yesterday.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2017, 03:06:35 pm
How long ago did the tree between the Arch and Rotifer go? I remember it being a pain when i did the Arch.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 24, 2017, 06:41:43 pm
A pretty long time ago I think. I can't remember it being there in 2008? I could be wrong. The Arch looks cool, one on the list for next time. Would have squeezed it in but Smelly Fox declined my suggestion of doing Black Chipper as part of his Classic VS Day at Brimham and headed back to Rough Wall instead.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2017, 06:43:23 pm
Worse places to go.

I think I've done more classic E1/2 routes at Brimham than anywhere else.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 24, 2017, 08:57:27 pm
VS is where it's at at Brimham, I was a bit jealous that he had them all to do.

I've done Frensis Direct, the E1 on Rough Wall, Hanging Groove, Ritornal, Enigma, Black Chipper, Noticeboard Wall and Red Tape.

Tried Halcyon Daze but the slopers were filthy despite how open it is. Still got Picnic, Charming Crack and The Arch. What have I missed?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2017, 08:57:56 am
Halcyon Daze was my first ever E2 - a bit of a stage to perform on, I think I got applause from picnickers

Dog leg Crack? ;) Not done notice Board Wall and Red Tape, Picnic or Charming Crack
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Hoseyb on April 27, 2017, 10:40:39 pm
If charming crack is on the list,  you have to take on the brutaliser...  Bog crack is also a good struggle.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 28, 2017, 12:45:52 pm
Hosey, one of these days I will try to properly get into gruelling rounded overhanging offwidth climbing, just for the LOLZ. The next day at Brimham probably won't be the day though  :P
Title: Keeping it dry.
Post by: comPiler on June 10, 2017, 01:00:33 pm
Keeping it dry. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/06/keeping-it-dry.html)
10 June 2017, 11:14 am



Long time no blog, been too busy climbing. Edited highlights: The Maw (FA), Extreme Walks, Mean Feet, Breaking Point, A Far Cry From Squamish, Mirage, Tricky Dicky, Life And Times, Call To Arms, False Gods, Dawn, Grande Plage var, Sunny Corner Lane, Pass The Pigs, Demolition. Most if not all of which helped by good conditions and reasonable skin, all down to that lovely delicious and nutritious anti-hydral cream. A few people have been asking me about it so here's how I use the stuff:

Method for anti-hydral??

Carefully peel the foreskin back (or wrap carefully in clingfilm if     circumcised), apply a copious coping, re-cover, and let marinate     overnight. Guaranteed like leather after a week of this.
Errrr okay. Right this isn't a scientific post about the composition methodology and risks of anti-hydral. You know it's an extreme skin-drying cream from Germany, you know excessive use could lead to peeling, cracking, flappers etc, and you know how to google to buy a tube. This is about application because googling for how to apply it brings up loads of dodgy methods. Below is my method and the principle is simple:



Apply a small amount to the actual areas you're going to sweat, keep away from already dry / hard skin areas, and build it up over time if you need to. If you take time off climbing after regular anti-hydral usage, watch out for hard skin and sand/moisturise if needed.


I.e. put it on the middle of the tips because that's what sweats and is most critical for grip, avoid the edges and any creases in the finger joints. I apply a little bit before bed and leave it on overnight. This seems to work well.

Pictures:

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OH7dpJAnQXw/WTvC6SDmzeI/AAAAAAAACAw/G5z2pm-n64ItDjTpHLbjFt-RarMmQcNPQCLcB/s400/anti1.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OH7dpJAnQXw/WTvC6SDmzeI/AAAAAAAACAw/G5z2pm-n64ItDjTpHLbjFt-RarMmQcNPQCLcB/s1600/anti1.jpg)

Yes - thumb is correct, a small amount in the middle, no excess at edges. If this is not enough then it can be built up over time.

No 1 - nope, too much rubbed away from crucial middle of tip, too much on edges which will give excess hard skin,

No 2 - nope, you're not laying bloody cement down, this will take ages to dry and possibly give a damagingly strong effect.

No 3 - nope, rubbed down into creases which will produce hard skin there which will crack and peel.

No 4 - nope, rubbed too far down whole finger including creases, if you're concerned about a2 tendon area sweating, what sort of monster jugs are you using?? Jeez. May very rarely be useful for horrendous vertical grit slopers.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVOpUwz6Y0Y/WTvC6WwGMHI/AAAAAAAACA0/rg-nX0vxaP84PQ8ycob1TjA5HQi227MaACLcB/s400/anti2.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVOpUwz6Y0Y/WTvC6WwGMHI/AAAAAAAACA0/rg-nX0vxaP84PQ8ycob1TjA5HQi227MaACLcB/s1600/anti2.jpg)

Yes too all. This is what I do and it has a small but noticeable drying effect for the next day, without building up hard skin in problematic places. If I need to I can add a bit more - including applying to the thumb and softer pads on the palm. If I'm not climbing for a bit, I will sand and moisturise these areas to avoid hard skin build up in the days after the anti-hydral usage.

Hope that helps :)



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Taking The Grade.
Post by: comPiler on June 21, 2017, 01:00:08 pm
Taking The Grade. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/06/taking-grade.html)
21 June 2017, 12:49 pm



What a ridiculous concept. If I take the grade, what am I going to do with it? Stamp it on a medal? Tattoo it on my bellend (suitably enlarged if the grade is a BIG NUMBER) and wave it around to pick up hot chicks (or hunky blokes)? Superglue it onto my ego and see if it increases my sense of self-worth? Maybe I could make a little hutch for it, feed it kale and quinoa or steak pie and chips and see if it grows into a bigger grade? Do I need to take it on walkies? What about pet insurance? Worming tablets?

Maybe I could just take it as a fair indication of the level of challenge I just tackled, and that was the challenge I anticipated and prepared for and it was enjoyable and satisfying?? Sounds more like it.

Except it doesn't always work like that. Grades can be an unfair indication. Sometimes innocuously so....a bit soft, a bit hard (or is that just the after-effects of the tattooing?). Sometimes plain horseshit. Usually they get ironed out over time with consensus, but not always. Did you get the right level of challenge?? Definitely not. Do you take that grade (if you like taking grades) if it was clearly wrong?? Errrr.....

(How do I know that a grade is "wrong"?? I use common sense, experience, and the fact that, despite appearances, I'm not a bloody idiot. It's a bit easier with trad grades because they're fairly objective and usually correspond to unarguable facts about the climb: whether there is protection, whether there are rests, whether the rock is good, whether there are things to hit, etc etc. Sport grades are a bit less objective, bouldering grades are subjective toss invariably corresponding to reach and skin conditions rather than any actual difficulty. Sure with trad there are some times where one can say "it's a bit soft" or "a bit hard" and could go a bit either way and you wouldn't argue. But there's enough times where one can say "this is simply not the correct grade based on the facts about the climb and comparison with many other similar climbs all of which would have to be regraded" etc etc).

This all came about at Helsby with Coel Hellier Discoverer Of Planets. Lovely crag. Never had a bad day there, never done a duff route. This day went pretty well: The Umbrella, Calcutta Wall, Brandenburg Wall, Flake Wall.... Flake Wall is one of those unfortunate routes that is really rather good but suffers from a duff grade and hordes of bellends finding it all too easy to set-up a top-rope after Flake Crack, failpoint it, and claim some drivel like "FIRST E5 OMGZOR".

"Are you going to take E5 for that, Fiend", says the Discoverer Of Planets.

"Of course bloody not", says I.

As a bog standard onsight, it's not even hard for E4 (okay Coel thought it was hard for that so maybe we can average out at normal E4), it's not the hardest one I did that day (Calcutta just pipped it), and it's certainly going to be nowhere near The Brush Off (eeek!) or CFK (looks morpho nails). There's little doubt about the Flake Crack runner position, and a good cam in the face is more important anyway. The two crux moves are easy and positive 6a and a fall would give a clatter but not anything too serious. Facts, scientific facts. Thus, E4 6a. Quality is more subjective but I would say 2 stars as the crimps are just so nice and the position above good gear is too. Obviously as a failpoint it would get minus two stars for such a pointless non-experience.

So, taking the grade. I take the grade that indicates the challenge. If it's a bit uncertain, the guidebook will do (the latest definitive guide, not the Choadfax comics, which incidentally manages to get all 4 grades of those Helsby routes wrong, good effort). If it's a bit wrong, I'll take the right one. If no-one minds. Now I'm going to take it to the vets and buy some biscuits as a treat for it afterwards.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Muenchener on June 21, 2017, 03:39:54 pm
What a ridiculous concept. If I take the grade, what am I going to do with it? ... Superglue it onto my ego and see if it increases my sense of self-worth?

This. Obvsly.
Title: This time it's personal.
Post by: comPiler on August 22, 2017, 01:01:01 am
This time it's personal. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/08/this-time-its-personal.html)
21 August 2017, 10:37 pm



I had a pretty good spring in the South West. And by good I guess I mean bloody great. So great I lost my will to waffle on about it, sorry. I went down with a tolerable forecast, a refreshing amount of potential partners and a short but sweet wishlist. 19 routes that required 11 days climbing or something. Somehow (luck? bloody-mindedness? anti-hydral?) I did most of them. Except Uphill Racer escaped because the weather got too hot, Gold escaped because it was too horrifying for me and a ledge had fallen off (not under my weight I might add although while I was standing on a sort of block rigging a sort of lower-off, Stanners could see daylight up behind the block - I think he was belaying halfway to Dublin), Can You Walk Like You Talk escaped because I never got back. Of the others - Extreme Walks to Mean Feat, Life And Times to Andromeda Strain to False Gods - there were common threads: they were mostly fairly challenging, they were all truly enjoyable experiences, and they were all particular and personal desires.

Some of the desired routes corresponded exactly to "essential" coffee-table-book-ticking Rockfax-Top-50 "should" routes, but I wanted to do them *despite* all of that clutter. Some of them corresponded to "obvious local interest" but not so obviously what one would travel for. Some of them corresponded to "handful of known ascents" and in the shadow of nearby classics. But all of them had something that stood out to me in particular. A climbing style, a distinctive rock type, an alluring photo, a guidebook warning, a mysterious aura, and usually a less tangible element of intrigue. Why those routes in particular??

In the words of Mick Fowler:

"The Urge"


In the slightly more profound words of Calvin:



"I must obey the inscrutable exhortations of my soul"


I sometimes don't know exactly why. But this time I always knew the end result - great experiences that lived up to my expectations. Of course this doesn't make me special, we all live climbing for the same reason (apart from those sat under a F8b for two decades maybe). But it makes me happy that I'm on the right lines for pleasure and satisfaction even if there are a lot of up and downs getting there.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: tomtom on August 22, 2017, 07:30:46 am
For fucks sake fiend - as a regular reader of your blog I was hoping for bad weather, failure and compensation for both being some videos of RC cars doing things.

WHAT IS HAPPENING TO THE WORLD!!!!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: tomtom on August 22, 2017, 07:31:22 am
Ps. Well done. Sounds like a great trip.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on August 22, 2017, 08:31:46 am
Indeed. Nice sideways swipe at the IO though.
Title: Re: This time it's personal.
Post by: duncan on August 22, 2017, 10:42:36 am
Well done Matt.

Except Uphill Racer escaped because the weather got too hot, ...

Uphill feels like a long time ago and practically a different galaxy right now, but we'll be back.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on August 22, 2017, 11:25:13 am
Assume this is the Uphill Hole in the ground Uphill Racer, not the Screda Point one :)
Title: Re: This time it's personal.
Post by: Fiend on August 22, 2017, 01:04:18 pm

Uphill feels like a long time ago and practically a different galaxy right now, but we'll be back.

 :2thumbsup:

Sorry TT! Awful isn't it. A couple more posts in the pipeline are calm analysis of failures and a positive trip report  >:(

Any referred resembelence of redpoint suffering to existing climbers is of course entirely coincidental...
Title: Re: This time it's personal.
Post by: kingholmesy on August 23, 2017, 08:35:22 am

Andromeda Strain


This routes surely falls into the category of ...

Quote

Some of them corresponded to "handful of known ascents" and in the shadow of nearby classics.
 

It looks awesome but terrifying.  What was it like?  Death on a stick?  Or justifiable for a family man such as myself?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on August 23, 2017, 07:18:50 pm
Exactly! Why that route? Fuck knows.

It's fine, gotta be much easier than your Butter Hole shale new route horrors. I updated the UKC description:

Quote
The awesome slab to the right of Mercury, starting from the same stance, is technically reasonable but a fine test of gear optimisation and composure. Easy for the grade with mostly adequate protection for the dilligent, but also a couple of potentially serious run-outs on pitch 2 - rescue would be inconvenient. The climbing is continually excellent.
P1. E3 5c 30m. Move right from the stance to gain a slim overlap with difficulty. Traverse delicately right and step across to ledges beneath an orange bulge. Pull over positively and follow a scoop until a step back left gains a featured slab beneath a small roof. Climb leftwards over this and straight up to a good picnic ledge.
P2. E4 5c 50m. Climb above the belay slightly rightwards to a small red fang. Step right and carefully gain a slim red groove. Follow this boldly to various gear below the next ledge. Stand up, take a deep breath, and climb the immaculate red slab on pockets - all rather lonely - straight up then left to gain the overlap with relief. Pull over this on the left, step right to the next overlap, then pull over this one left as well to eventually meet Mercury at the start of it's crux traverse - a very natural continuation to the climbing below. Finish up Mercury with plenty of elation and 50m of rope drag.

I know that Andy Steinberg (strong) and Max Dutson (deranged) did it. According to Tom Last Max said the first pitch was almost a deep water solo, that might have missed something in translation but it does sound like Max, it's not anyway.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kingholmesy on August 23, 2017, 09:39:28 pm
Exactly! Why that route? Fuck knows.

It's fine ....

It holds a strange appeal for me too.  I'd discounted it as unjustifiable, but you've renewed my interest ...

Quote
I know that Andy Steinberg (strong) and Max Dutson (deranged) did it. According to Tom Last Max said the first pitch was almost a deep water solo, that might have missed something in translation but it does sound like Max, it's not anyway.

... although hearing that Max has done it doesn't count for much - I don't know him well, but he does have a reputation for being a bit of a crazy fucker.

Anyway, have a wad point for getting on it.

Title: Bad route choices.
Post by: comPiler on August 24, 2017, 01:00:21 am
Bad route choices. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/08/bad-route-choices.html)
23 August 2017, 7:25 pm



Following my successful southern soujorn, and some life-affirming Lakeland larks, I got my wires crossed and my climbing took an inevitable downturn (waxing and waning, ebbing and flowing). I found while I was doing well, I could do both of two things: Get on some pretty fucking weird and sketchy and dubious routes that were at my limit but which I had desired for and prepared for for a while. And get on some fairly challenging but essentially well known and obvious routes on the spur of the moment with little mental preparation or build-up. So far so good. Psyched out of my warped and twisted mind for some full-on horror, and able to cope with most minorly challenging trade routes. And then I got confused and thought that meant I'd be fine on spur of the moment minorly challenging sketchy horrors - wrong conclusion.

So I ended up on This Is Yesterday at Cam Crag getting pumped trying to work out totally blind moves above a cluster of fiddly micro shit, on Scram 79 at Dunkeld getting pumped on irreversible crimping above a wobbly RP shallow C3 and bendy peg, and Star Wars at Falcon Crag trying to pull over a blind crimpy roof above one good wire in a hollow glued on flake and two tiny offsets in crunch. None of these met with success. I rested, lowered off, escaped, sulked and huffed and complained about the grade and eventually realised what had gone wrong. None of these were desperate, but they were all dodgy and all too much with little psyching up - all of them I could have done with much prior meditating on the matter. Or if they'd been those reliable honeypot ticks I claim to disdain. Subtle differences but it's a fine line near your limit.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Berdorf.
Post by: comPiler on August 25, 2017, 01:00:44 am
Berdorf. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/08/berdorf.html)
24 August 2017, 9:45 pm



It's personal again! Who the fuck goes to Berdorf? It's not Siurana or Chullila or Kalymnos or  Ceuse or Frankenjura or Lofoten or anywhere. It's one crag, in the woods, in a tranquil and mostly flat area of Luxembourg for God's sake - hardly Catalunya. On the other hand it's bloody lovely. Imagine driving out of one of 3 campsites in the local village (I highly recommend the extra spacious Belle Vue 2000), after a swift half hour cruise from the airport the night before and swanky meal at the local bar (I highly recommend the seared swordfish with caper butter), parking up next to a cornfield, strolling 5 minutes downhill through ancient woodland and a lost world ravine to be greeted by an amphitheatre of fully bolted double-height Bowden+Kyloe buttresses.

Okay so it could be quite humid and gloomy under the trees in the wrong conditions (bring a soft brush to curb chalk build-up), it will be very busy at weekends, the base is annoyingly sandy (bring a rag to keep your starting blocs clean), and the F9a beast might feel rather short-changed with a crag that excels in F6s (although the F8a beastling would have to be particularly miserable to moan about the smaller selection of immaculate F7c-8a+ face climbs that could tempt even me to sit on a bolt). But for what it is - a singular giant bolted Northumberland crag - it is great. One of the nicest places with the nicest rock and routes I've climbed on - possibly even better than Wilton!

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NQVxuxbt4GU/WZ8M-DDSe1I/AAAAAAAACFE/LW97PB0rvyQGL2a310HYn5i2hGFdj-YQgCLcBGAs/s400/walkin.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NQVxuxbt4GU/WZ8M-DDSe1I/AAAAAAAACFE/LW97PB0rvyQGL2a310HYn5i2hGFdj-YQgCLcBGAs/s1600/walkin.jpg)The right-hand walk-in, rather nice in itself, leading past some "High Rocks" style corridors. Don't worry the mediocre and climbing-banned choss on the way in is the only similarity with Southern Shitstone.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qsXJVf2LpEI/WZ8M2-28QEI/AAAAAAAACEg/c6DMc-bNOHUzWIGBnih_vv0HkEegVs7QgCLcBGAs/s400/fiend_voleur.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qsXJVf2LpEI/WZ8M2-28QEI/AAAAAAAACEg/c6DMc-bNOHUzWIGBnih_vv0HkEegVs7QgCLcBGAs/s1600/fiend_voleur.jpg)The other walk-in, even more charmingly, leads you straight to this. Voleur Le Spits F7a+ *** (F7a?). From 0 to 3 stars in an instant, setting the tone for the quality if not the style.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O34Cr8wSo58/WZ8M3Uw38_I/AAAAAAAACEk/XJsSr1Yr7uQF0p_qd-CD4r8EG4q3q9i9ACLcBGAs/s400/fiend_voleur2.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O34Cr8wSo58/WZ8M3Uw38_I/AAAAAAAACEk/XJsSr1Yr7uQF0p_qd-CD4r8EG4q3q9i9ACLcBGAs/s1600/fiend_voleur2.jpg)This is unusually steep for the crag, but still great fun despite it's lack of technicality. Quintessential steep yarding and hooking, pretty easy if you can jam and pace yourself, with a brilliant finish.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-syV_nfF0G_k/WZ8MxDPG_HI/AAAAAAAACEI/mq6kRYyHNRUyS2FlwPvKRv_fWs78R8D9QCLcBGAs/s400/fiend_6b1.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-syV_nfF0G_k/WZ8MxDPG_HI/AAAAAAAACEI/mq6kRYyHNRUyS2FlwPvKRv_fWs78R8D9QCLcBGAs/s1600/fiend_6b1.jpg)Luftikus F6b *** - the amount of quality in the F6a-b range here is exceptional, and as such is a great crag for a bumblathon, although you do have to pull hard even on the easies. This one starts with a ramble before a jug-hauling prow and a final balancy arete move - brilliant.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SmK94abTanE/WZ8M3xIUg0I/AAAAAAAACEo/9GaR1Qzff9kcu7cZUQ9hHIONMVAShbMxQCLcBGAs/s400/fiend_willy1.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SmK94abTanE/WZ8M3xIUg0I/AAAAAAAACEo/9GaR1Qzff9kcu7cZUQ9hHIONMVAShbMxQCLcBGAs/s1600/fiend_willy1.jpg)This wall is the second thing you see (partly because it gets a bit more light than the rest of the amphitheatre) and is irresistably inspiring, just a beautiful bit of rock. Willy F6c *** (F6c+?) is possibly THE classic with a better balance than some other routes including a few hard pulls.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Th-1CZ7NM1g/WZ8MvhVHF1I/AAAAAAAACEE/tSlE9hlW5FM0L6p53WBSSPT0Cbkjo97MwCLcBGAs/s400/fiend_6barete2.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Th-1CZ7NM1g/WZ8MvhVHF1I/AAAAAAAACEE/tSlE9hlW5FM0L6p53WBSSPT0Cbkjo97MwCLcBGAs/s1600/fiend_6barete2.jpg)Schotte Bob F6b+ ** - a slight eliminate at the top but still good fun on great rock.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HayNpM-fqEU/WZ8MxCx9p3I/AAAAAAAACEM/pQueLcn8hPou4rxTwHKMVtsbtJ6EpIomACLcBGAs/s400/fiend_6barete1.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HayNpM-fqEU/WZ8MxCx9p3I/AAAAAAAACEM/pQueLcn8hPou4rxTwHKMVtsbtJ6EpIomACLcBGAs/s1600/fiend_6barete1.jpg)The wall to the left is simply world class, a magnificent 25m sheet of perfect impending sandstone. If you climb F7c-8b you will be translating awe into action with much glee.

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TH4LEC7izdg/WZ8MyBtDoNI/AAAAAAAACEQ/EJ8F173ue_g4ucYcrGNl-hEBXudQ6weDQCLcBGAs/s400/fiend_6c1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TH4LEC7izdg/WZ8MyBtDoNI/AAAAAAAACEQ/EJ8F173ue_g4ucYcrGNl-hEBXudQ6weDQCLcBGAs/s1600/fiend_6c1.jpg)Petite Trou F6c ** - another semi-eliminate in a "don't use the arete" sort of way (F6a+ with), but it does make sense where the holds lead you. Like many Berdorf routes this is typically cruxy, involving a long crank off small pockets to a good break.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZI9PWqJ4iwg/WZ8M0K-0tOI/AAAAAAAACEU/YyhgucOtjGkBomP_5oI24wXRwUUw4cMKQCLcBGAs/s400/fiend_mono1a.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZI9PWqJ4iwg/WZ8M0K-0tOI/AAAAAAAACEU/YyhgucOtjGkBomP_5oI24wXRwUUw4cMKQCLcBGAs/s1600/fiend_mono1a.jpg)Tempete F6c+ ** (F7a ***?) I missed out on Takla Makan F7a *** by casually muffing the boulder problem starting crux, thus a brief but explosive trainer-throwing tourette-a-thon tantrum. This route was a very worthy consolation prize, less popular, less chalked, better rock, and...

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vn51rR_l6vE/WZ8M03LiCAI/AAAAAAAACEc/enknOjW3iQQtBo6exnyamzaoyYtNEwxCwCLcBGAs/s400/fiend_mono2.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vn51rR_l6vE/WZ8M03LiCAI/AAAAAAAACEc/enknOjW3iQQtBo6exnyamzaoyYtNEwxCwCLcBGAs/s1600/fiend_mono2.jpg)...no less than 5 mono holds / moves. These are monos 4 and 5, the crux was below using a ring-finger mono (#3) near the bolt to match hand and foot in the upper good pocket. Really satisfying and one of my favourite routes (along with Arrete Paulette! later that day which has a steady but sublime finishing crux on the best sandstone you'll touch here).

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0S82grKd330/WZ8M0S6OP2I/AAAAAAAACEY/TYcrumzpkmoU-TyGonXYu4uApPmJ_dz8wCLcBGAs/s400/fiend_bleausard.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0S82grKd330/WZ8M0S6OP2I/AAAAAAAACEY/TYcrumzpkmoU-TyGonXYu4uApPmJ_dz8wCLcBGAs/s1600/fiend_bleausard.jpg)Sweating and swearing up Bleausard F6c *** (F6c+?). This was before a diversion to 'bleau itself for a few days, but I doubt it would have made much difference, the slab crux on this route is just plain hard, very tenacious moves with a keyhole slot that mangled my pinky.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GF9Oq56Cvj0/WZ8M5s2mi5I/AAAAAAAACEs/W5lyHeneOaQywogl5FRFH-lG7OFihbCTQCLcBGAs/s400/hund1.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GF9Oq56Cvj0/WZ8M5s2mi5I/AAAAAAAACEs/W5lyHeneOaQywogl5FRFH-lG7OFihbCTQCLcBGAs/s1600/hund1.jpg)Lots of people bring dogs to this crag. Most of them are as peaceful as this fluffy little lady, but a few of them are constantly yappy twats. I love dogs more than people, but seriously, an hour of yapping to not get the message that you shouldn't bring the neurotic fucker along??

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aPFrsGHl7jk/WZ8M6STaT5I/AAAAAAAACEw/_mMtLob-QEYqFwFgW8ZgDCm1SRygU2T2wCLcBGAs/s400/lizard.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aPFrsGHl7jk/WZ8M6STaT5I/AAAAAAAACEw/_mMtLob-QEYqFwFgW8ZgDCm1SRygU2T2wCLcBGAs/s1600/lizard.jpg)More crag wildlife. This wee fella (2 inches long) was a bit dopey. Probably highly confused by the weather. Last time I was in this bit of Europe it was 34'C most days. This time 20-ish and showery on a few days. Most of the rock dries fairly quick although obviously fresh breezy conditions are best.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4bfJGE1LFsU/WZ8M7MvuzOI/AAAAAAAACE0/_Z09Yzc5go0Bi47KdA8yhFbLappwK7CngCLcBGAs/s400/lux1.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4bfJGE1LFsU/WZ8M7MvuzOI/AAAAAAAACE0/_Z09Yzc5go0Bi47KdA8yhFbLappwK7CngCLcBGAs/s1600/lux1.jpg)

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mu5jzESSStA/WZ8M8kNJS3I/AAAAAAAACE8/J6WdcNKCUmoLi7zphiNj7EBqge23ZB-ogCLcBGAs/s400/lux3.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mu5jzESSStA/WZ8M8kNJS3I/AAAAAAAACE8/J6WdcNKCUmoLi7zphiNj7EBqge23ZB-ogCLcBGAs/s1600/lux3.jpg)

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uFUyRnuCxi8/WZ8M79tqRuI/AAAAAAAACE4/fxrTewfxLionUdH4H8RQKAzj0yZdboXagCLcBGAs/s400/lux10.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uFUyRnuCxi8/WZ8M79tqRuI/AAAAAAAACE4/fxrTewfxLionUdH4H8RQKAzj0yZdboXagCLcBGAs/s1600/lux10.jpg)

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6fhjkXitlj0/WZ8M9FjIN5I/AAAAAAAACFA/Fr4Ynn2xazAnVuiOBcTlLUB3dn95hFBKwCLcBGAs/s400/lux8.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6fhjkXitlj0/WZ8M9FjIN5I/AAAAAAAACFA/Fr4Ynn2xazAnVuiOBcTlLUB3dn95hFBKwCLcBGAs/s1600/lux8.jpg)No tears please, it's a waste of good suffering. Luxembourg makes an easy and palatable rainy day excursion, being a mere 30 minutes to the city limits. The Old Quarter and city battlements are cool, although, in general, fuck culture (I still like cool architecture tho).

The end result of this is, errr, more Nesscliffe and Pfalz psyche. Of course it is. Personal reasons you see.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Muenchener on August 25, 2017, 07:02:37 am
Looks very interesting. How would you say it compares to the Vosges sandstone in Alsace (which is a bit closer for me)?

And what's the deal with the permit thing?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: tomtom on August 25, 2017, 07:58:24 am
Excellent blogging fiend. Waddage next time I'm on via a PC.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on August 25, 2017, 10:16:40 am
Muenchener, I have no idea, I've never been to the Vosges sandstone in Alsace. The only possible solution is for me to fly over for a long weekend, and perform an exacting scientific comparison by gathering as much evidence from as many routes / blocs as possible...

The quality is generally very good - there is the odd sandy patch on some lower breaks but that's usually obvious and most of it is hard and often perfect in the upper reaches. The texture is relatively coarse, not like gritstone but quite featured with nodules and crozzles, it does vary from buttress to buttress. The closest comparison I've come across is some of the sheerer and tougher bits of Kyloe or Back Bowden.

The permit thing is no longer an issue, you just have to be a member of an UIAA-affiliated organisation (inc BMC) and carry evidence of that. The crag was often very busy and there was never anyone checking this. It does seem fairly unregulated despite the noticeboards of rules, so there is more onus on us climbers to keep things clean and tidy (litter was not a problem, but as anywhere in Europe, shitting near the crag was (pro-tip: take the faint diagonal trail downhill beneath the bench at sector Isatis, keep going past the shitting spots 20m from the crag and there's lots of privacy further on), as was chalk build-up and people treading sand onto lower holds).
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2017, 10:36:54 am
That 7c /8a wall looks like something straight out of Red River Gorge photos. Looks good.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on August 25, 2017, 11:27:34 am
It looked good in the photos and topos in the book, but in real life it's a real beauty!
Title: Leftovers from Dartmoor and Wye Valley Sport.
Post by: comPiler on August 29, 2017, 01:00:53 am
Leftovers from Dartmoor and Wye Valley Sport. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2017/08/leftovers-from-dartmoor-and-wye-valley.html)
28 August 2017, 10:04 pm



All photos ©®™ Mark Davies / Dark Mavis / Pylon Kunt 2016, 2017, ad infinitum

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xS-oJHFYiRk/WaP4lROURII/AAAAAAAACF4/eY2vjhL_lVcHGAe2ddfCddgSgSXbTKXWgCLcBGAs/s400/13681896_10154444807158223_1862552884_o.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xS-oJHFYiRk/WaP4lROURII/AAAAAAAACF4/eY2vjhL_lVcHGAe2ddfCddgSgSXbTKXWgCLcBGAs/s1600/13681896_10154444807158223_1862552884_o.jpg)

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_TAN-0Fm4p0/WaP4qpxpCsI/AAAAAAAACGM/4jXVih1AMzwINFGSaeIOwUHw6keEkvdbwCLcBGAs/s400/13977973_10154462325618223_1356730883_o.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_TAN-0Fm4p0/WaP4qpxpCsI/AAAAAAAACGM/4jXVih1AMzwINFGSaeIOwUHw6keEkvdbwCLcBGAs/s1600/13977973_10154462325618223_1356730883_o.jpg)Leprechaun, Irishman's Wall, Dartmoor. Lovely wee spot that we visited as part of a hectic Dartmoor photoshoot weekend (IW, King's Tor, bivvy, Sheep's Tor, Great Links Tor (approx 200 mile walk-in), Myrtle Turtle Quarry), which turned out to be pretty satisfying as PK got some genuinely great photos for the book. This route above was a merry jaunt after battling on Non Metallic Silver to the left. Non Metallic Metals is a toy soldier painting technique which I particularly dislike as it's only good from set angles and it's usage is mostly driven by fashion and trends. I had to do the route regardless but made sure to huff about it.

(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YTFhGaO0xd4/WaP4sXvtU-I/AAAAAAAACGQ/PQW3SeKAANI9wSA46q034atnF14Tnj6CACLcBGAs/s400/13987101_10154462323763223_251662479_o.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YTFhGaO0xd4/WaP4sXvtU-I/AAAAAAAACGQ/PQW3SeKAANI9wSA46q034atnF14Tnj6CACLcBGAs/s1600/13987101_10154462323763223_251662479_o.jpg)

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IsVKGAiYwgg/WaP4pIgJ-SI/AAAAAAAACGA/-W-Y5RaHp7E3tyFdgW-hG90nf2B-4xRwwCLcBGAs/s400/13902095_10154445296633223_1197227766_o.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IsVKGAiYwgg/WaP4pIgJ-SI/AAAAAAAACGA/-W-Y5RaHp7E3tyFdgW-hG90nf2B-4xRwwCLcBGAs/s1600/13902095_10154445296633223_1197227766_o.jpg)The Legend Of Pip, Haytor Quarry, Dartmoor. I had to do this route because of my then landlady's whippet, Pip (apparently a bit fat for a whippet, I'm not so sure):

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4kj9yRfoNAY/WaP65CNNS7I/AAAAAAAACGg/d2tNeSGGy9UR4BUZs3u7I4hzZ_HUDKYhACLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20160625_125602_edit.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4kj9yRfoNAY/WaP65CNNS7I/AAAAAAAACGg/d2tNeSGGy9UR4BUZs3u7I4hzZ_HUDKYhACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20160625_125602_edit.jpg)The route itself is a nice little solo, somewhat of a dodgy landing and committing off the deck, but fine quarried granite.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7dd3RYHmg74/WaP4jzZ4EtI/AAAAAAAACFs/CB9oWJ_E_RsHoPTb2Ct91RMtzS33hJ7wwCLcBGAs/s400/13595808_10154370470773223_410727335_n.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7dd3RYHmg74/WaP4jzZ4EtI/AAAAAAAACFs/CB9oWJ_E_RsHoPTb2Ct91RMtzS33hJ7wwCLcBGAs/s1600/13595808_10154370470773223_410727335_n.jpg)Two Mules For Sister Sara, Woodcroft Quarry, Wye Valley. Woodcroft is a cataclysmic hole to rival the worst of Peak Lime quarries but scattered around the dire F6a-choss-infested walls, there are some fine micro-tiers of good rock and techy climbing despite the aesthetics. Rippled And Toned just left of that groove is a great compression arete.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SpcmyPxYNmM/WaP4kncLCcI/AAAAAAAACFw/qfUS_Efy2TwEU1xKjlpky9RLw_bVoSnYQCLcBGAs/s400/13599739_10154369395663223_1382499284_n.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SpcmyPxYNmM/WaP4kncLCcI/AAAAAAAACFw/qfUS_Efy2TwEU1xKjlpky9RLw_bVoSnYQCLcBGAs/s1600/13599739_10154369395663223_1382499284_n.jpg)A Blast From The Past, Woodcroft Quarry, Wye Valley. More decent Horseshoe-esque gems.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UmxM_LghWUE/WaP4kvmwpUI/AAAAAAAACF0/1w0yOPQzKnMVabDoyGmdoV2dU7_i7mM2wCLcBGAs/s400/13607904_10154370483503223_903593582_n.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UmxM_LghWUE/WaP4kvmwpUI/AAAAAAAACF0/1w0yOPQzKnMVabDoyGmdoV2dU7_i7mM2wCLcBGAs/s1600/13607904_10154370483503223_903593582_n.jpg) Saudi Air, Woodcroft Quarry, Wye Valley. And more.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TFeSF31LbDg/WaP4nuDpXpI/AAAAAAAACF8/SIPtBcrr8kAvtFWpoNgcVStYTKtGorbcACLcBGAs/s400/13692149_10154398428313223_33871988_o.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TFeSF31LbDg/WaP4nuDpXpI/AAAAAAAACF8/SIPtBcrr8kAvtFWpoNgcVStYTKtGorbcACLcBGAs/s1600/13692149_10154398428313223_33871988_o.jpg)Don't Lower The Tone, Woodcroft Quarry, Wye Valley. Tone already well lowered with shorts/stockings combos. PK described my style as "death metal bassist" which is possibly the nicest compliment I've ever had :). Pity this one didn't make it into the book as I rather like the shameless grindr-profile flexing errr I mean the balance of climbing and ivy and tension in the move (the latter being quite genuinely as it was thin and fierce and bloody satisfying even if I only stayed on with a blind toe-scrape mid-move).

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1RMmDVxcV7o/WaP4pljabYI/AAAAAAAACGE/07AIdI6RE30qccONM7Ru81CNL4BTA1AvwCLcBGAs/s400/13835609_10154432137248223_1697002496_o.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1RMmDVxcV7o/WaP4pljabYI/AAAAAAAACGE/07AIdI6RE30qccONM7Ru81CNL4BTA1AvwCLcBGAs/s1600/13835609_10154432137248223_1697002496_o.jpg)Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit, Ban-y-Gor, Wye Valley. I had far too many photoshoots at Sandbag-y-Gor and got increasingly disillusioned in the place. On the first visit it was okay including this tricky wee fucker which I think I knee-barred on.

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3KxmWkNtgpI/WaP4p5kc-8I/AAAAAAAACGI/-JJNTiR8CbM1pIggTHHaqLfvNXiQskiAgCLcBGAs/s400/13950625_10154456526618223_523560253_o.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3KxmWkNtgpI/WaP4p5kc-8I/AAAAAAAACGI/-JJNTiR8CbM1pIggTHHaqLfvNXiQskiAgCLcBGAs/s1600/13950625_10154456526618223_523560253_o.jpg)So Gross, Ban-y-Gor, Wye Valley. The final visit to this hole and one which put me off South West climbing. This slice of bolted Brown & Whillans grimness was the only silver lining and another version of the grotty cleft furtling ended up as the surprise and subversive cover shot (I've already apologised to PK for any massive drops in sales).

One of these days I need the cantankerous old cunt to take some photos of me on routes I'm really psyched by. But that's not happening imminently, bah. Still fun to be part of the process.



Source:  fiendblog (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/)

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 18, 2018, 12:41:02 pm
In case anyone gives strictly the smallest of shits:

https://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2017/11/trajectory-of-twat.html
How I fucked my leg (the nice, fun, easy to recover from bit) and inadvertantly got post viral ibs of the upper digestive tract (the utter fucking shit bit).

https://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2017/11/three-of-decentest.html
Some small consolations from a dismally bad-weather autumn in the UK.

https://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/gymll-fix-it.html
The benefits of gym training. Won't apply to everyone but certainly fucking applies to me.

https://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/pink-and-purple.html
Health update and distilling down some blogging about indoor wall climbing to annoy my hoary old trad bumbly friends.

https://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2018/02/an-enthralling-experience.html
Distilling down blogging even more about one single boulder problem.

https://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2018/03/peak-fiend.html
The story behind one video and my way of doing things.

https://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2018/04/pfalz-pfrustrations.html
Learning about dealing with challenges after another trip to Pfalz.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 20, 2018, 01:04:24 pm
https://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2018/04/pfalz-pfotos.html
More Pfalz pfsyche!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on May 11, 2018, 10:45:02 pm
https://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2018/05/fuck-this-shit.html
State of play with my innards / health, state of mind with my reaction to it. Boring but explanatory.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on June 21, 2018, 12:00:02 pm
http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2018/05/going-off-piste.html
Some waffling about my explorations in Northumberland this winter.

http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2018/06/midsummer-madness.html
Latest state of playing about my (improving) innards and mindstate, plus some photos.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 12, 2018, 12:22:48 pm
https://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2018/07/the-complete-works.html some words about something that people seem to like.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: fatneck on July 26, 2018, 02:19:27 pm
Lovely compliment to the film Fiend :)
Title: fiendblogTaking The Grade.
Post by: comPiler on September 17, 2018, 05:28:37 pm
Taking The Grade.


What a ridiculous concept. If I take the grade, what am I going to do with it? Stamp it on a medal? Tattoo it on my bellend (suitably enlarged if the grade is a BIG NUMBER) and wave it around to pick up hot chicks (or hunky blokes)? Superglue it onto my ego and see if it increases my sense of self-worth? Maybe I could make a little hutch for it, feed it kale and quinoa or steak pie and chips and see if it grows into a bigger grade? Do I need to take it on walkies? What about pet insurance? Worming tablets?

Maybe I could just take it as a fair indication of the level of challenge I just tackled, and that was the challenge I anticipated and prepared for and it was enjoyable and satisfying?? Sounds more like it.

Except it doesn't always work like that. Grades can be an unfair indication. Sometimes innocuously so....a bit soft, a bit hard (or is that just the after-effects of the tattooing?). Sometimes plain horseshit. Usually they get ironed out over time with consensus, but not always. Did you get the right level of challenge?? Definitely not. Do you take that grade (if you like taking grades) if it was clearly wrong?? Errrr.....

(How do I know that a grade is "wrong"?? I use common sense, experience, and the fact that, despite appearances, I'm not a bloody idiot. It's a bit easier with trad grades because they're fairly objective and usually correspond to unarguable facts about the climb: whether there is protection, whether there are rests, whether the rock is good, whether there are things to hit, etc etc. Sport grades are a bit less objective, bouldering grades are subjective toss invariably corresponding to reach and skin conditions rather than any actual difficulty. Sure with trad there are some times where one can say "it's a bit soft" or "a bit hard" and could go a bit either way and you wouldn't argue. But there's enough times where one can say "this is simply not the correct grade based on the facts about the climb and comparison with many other similar climbs all of which would have to be regraded" etc etc).

This all came about at Helsby with Coel Hellier Discoverer Of Planets. Lovely crag. Never had a bad day there, never done a duff route. This day went pretty well: The Umbrella, Calcutta Wall, Brandenburg Wall, Flake Wall.... Flake Wall is one of those unfortunate routes that is really rather good but suffers from a duff grade and hordes of bellends finding it all too easy to set-up a top-rope after Flake Crack, failpoint it, and claim some drivel like "FIRST E5 OMGZOR".

"Are you going to take E5 for that, Fiend", says the Discoverer Of Planets.

"Of course bloody not", says I.

As a bog standard onsight, it's not even hard for E4 (okay Coel thought it was hard for that so maybe we can average out at normal E4), it's not the hardest one I did that day (Calcutta just pipped it), and it's certainly going to be nowhere near The Brush Off (eeek!) or CFK (looks morpho nails). There's little doubt about the Flake Crack runner position, and a good cam in the face is more important anyway. The two crux moves are easy and positive 6a and a fall would give a clatter but not anything too serious. Facts, scientific facts. Thus, E4 6a. Quality is more subjective but I would say 2 stars as the crimps are just so nice and the position above good gear is too. Obviously as a failpoint it would get minus two stars for such a pointless non-experience.

So, taking the grade. I take the grade that indicates the challenge. If it's a bit uncertain, the guidebook will do (the latest definitive guide, not the Choadfax comics, which incidentally manages to get all 4 grades of those Helsby routes wrong, good effort). If it's a bit wrong, I'll take the right one. If no-one minds. Now I'm going to take it to the vets and buy some biscuits as a treat for it afterwards.




Source: Taking The Grade. (http://)
Title: fiendblogThis time it's personal.
Post by: comPiler on September 17, 2018, 05:28:37 pm
This time it's personal.


I had a pretty good spring in the South West. And by good I guess I mean bloody great. So great I lost my will to waffle on about it, sorry. I went down with a tolerable forecast, a refreshing amount of potential partners and a short but sweet wishlist. 19 routes that required 11 days climbing or something. Somehow (luck? bloody-mindedness? anti-hydral?) I did most of them. Except Uphill Racer escaped because the weather got too hot, Gold escaped because it was too horrifying for me and a ledge had fallen off (not under my weight I might add although while I was standing on a sort of block rigging a sort of lower-off, Stanners could see daylight up behind the block - I think he was belaying halfway to Dublin), Can You Walk Like You Talk escaped because I never got back. Of the others - Extreme Walks to Mean Feat, Life And Times to Andromeda Strain to False Gods - there were common threads: they were mostly fairly challenging, they were all truly enjoyable experiences, and they were all particular and personal desires.

Some of the desired routes corresponded exactly to "essential" coffee-table-book-ticking Rockfax-Top-50 "should" routes, but I wanted to do them *despite* all of that clutter. Some of them corresponded to "obvious local interest" but not so obviously what one would travel for. Some of them corresponded to "handful of known ascents" and in the shadow of nearby classics. But all of them had something that stood out to me in particular. A climbing style, a distinctive rock type, an alluring photo, a guidebook warning, a mysterious aura, and usually a less tangible element of intrigue. Why those routes in particular??

In the words of Mick Fowler:

"The Urge"

In the slightly more profound words of Calvin:

"I must obey the inscrutable exhortations of my soul"

I sometimes don't know exactly why. But this time I always knew the end result - great experiences that lived up to my expectations. Of course this doesn't make me special, we all live climbing for the same reason (apart from those sat under a F8b for two decades maybe). But it makes me happy that I'm on the right lines for pleasure and satisfaction even if there are a lot of up and downs getting there.


Source: This time it's personal. (http://)
Title: fiendblogBad route choices.
Post by: comPiler on September 18, 2018, 01:01:22 am
Bad route choices.


Following my successful southern soujorn, and some life-affirming Lakeland larks, I got my wires crossed and my climbing took an inevitable downturn (waxing and waning, ebbing and flowing). I found while I was doing well, I could do both of two things: Get on some pretty fucking weird and sketchy and dubious routes that were at my limit but which I had desired for and prepared for for a while. And get on some fairly challenging but essentially well known and obvious routes on the spur of the moment with little mental preparation or build-up. So far so good. Psyched out of my warped and twisted mind for some full-on horror, and able to cope with most minorly challenging trade routes. And then I got confused and thought that meant I'd be fine on spur of the moment minorly challenging sketchy horrors - wrong conclusion.

So I ended up on This Is Yesterday at Cam Crag getting pumped trying to work out totally blind moves above a cluster of fiddly micro shit, on Scram 79 at Dunkeld getting pumped on irreversible crimping above a wobbly RP shallow C3 and bendy peg, and Star Wars at Falcon Crag trying to pull over a blind crimpy roof above one good wire in a hollow glued on flake and two tiny offsets in crunch. None of these met with success. I rested, lowered off, escaped, sulked and huffed and complained about the grade and eventually realised what had gone wrong. None of these were desperate, but they were all dodgy and all too much with little psyching up - all of them I could have done with much prior meditating on the matter. Or if they'd been those reliable honeypot ticks I claim to disdain. Subtle differences but it's a fine line near your limit.


Source: Bad route choices. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 18, 2018, 12:50:30 pm
Well done Compiler, you're doing great.................................................... :-\
Title: fiendblogBerdorf.
Post by: comPiler on September 18, 2018, 01:00:11 pm
Berdorf.


It's personal again! Who the fuck goes to Berdorf? It's not Siurana or Chullila or Kalymnos or  Ceuse or Frankenjura or Lofoten or anywhere. It's one crag, in the woods, in a tranquil and mostly flat area of Luxembourg for God's sake - hardly Catalunya. On the other hand it's bloody lovely. Imagine driving out of one of 3 campsites in the local village (I highly recommend the extra spacious Belle Vue 2000), after a swift half hour cruise from the airport the night before and swanky meal at the local bar (I highly recommend the seared swordfish with caper butter), parking up next to a cornfield, strolling 5 minutes downhill through ancient woodland and a lost world ravine to be greeted by an amphitheatre of fully bolted double-height Bowden+Kyloe buttresses.

Okay so it could be quite humid and gloomy under the trees in the wrong conditions (bring a soft brush to curb chalk build-up), it will be very busy at weekends, the base is annoyingly sandy (bring a rag to keep your starting blocs clean), and the F9a beast might feel rather short-changed with a crag that excels in F6s (although the F8a beastling would have to be particularly miserable to moan about the smaller selection of immaculate F7c-8a+ face climbs that could tempt even me to sit on a bolt). But for what it is - a singular giant bolted Northumberland crag - it is great. One of the nicest places with the nicest rock and routes I've climbed on - possibly even better than Wilton!

The right-hand walk-in, rather nice in itself, leading past some "High Rocks" style corridors. Don't worry the mediocre and climbing-banned choss on the way in is the only similarity with Southern Shitstone.

The other walk-in, even more charmingly, leads you straight to this. Voleur Le Spits F7a+ *** (F7a?). From 0 to 3 stars in an instant, setting the tone for the quality if not the style.

This is unusually steep for the crag, but still great fun despite it's lack of technicality. Quintessential steep yarding and hooking, pretty easy if you can jam and pace yourself, with a brilliant finish.

Luftikus F6b *** - the amount of quality in the F6a-b range here is exceptional, and as such is a great crag for a bumblathon, although you do have to pull hard even on the easies. This one starts with a ramble before a jug-hauling prow and a final balancy arete move - brilliant.

This wall is the second thing you see (partly because it gets a bit more light than the rest of the amphitheatre) and is irresistably inspiring, just a beautiful bit of rock. Willy F6c *** (F6c+?) is possibly THE classic with a better balance than some other routes including a few hard pulls.

Schotte Bob F6b+ ** - a slight eliminate at the top but still good fun on great rock.

The wall to the left is simply world class, a magnificent 25m sheet of perfect impending sandstone. If you climb F7c-8b you will be translating awe into action with much glee.

Petite Trou F6c ** - another semi-eliminate in a "don't use the arete" sort of way (F6a+ with), but it does make sense where the holds lead you. Like many Berdorf routes this is typically cruxy, involving a long crank off small pockets to a good break.

Tempete F6c+ ** (F7a ***?) I missed out on Takla Makan F7a *** by casually muffing the boulder problem starting crux, thus a brief but explosive trainer-throwing tourette-a-thon tantrum. This route was a very worthy consolation prize, less popular, less chalked, better rock, and...

...no less than 5 mono holds / moves. These are monos 4 and 5, the crux was below using a ring-finger mono (#3) near the bolt to match hand and foot in the upper good pocket. Really satisfying and one of my favourite routes (along with Arrete Paulette! later that day which has a steady but sublime finishing crux on the best sandstone you'll touch here).

Sweating and swearing up Bleausard F6c *** (F6c+?). This was before a diversion to 'bleau itself for a few days, but I doubt it would have made much difference, the slab crux on this route is just plain hard, very tenacious moves with a keyhole slot that mangled my pinky.

Lots of people bring dogs to this crag. Most of them are as peaceful as this fluffy little lady, but a few of them are constantly yappy twats. I love dogs more than people, but seriously, an hour of yapping to not get the message that you shouldn't bring the neurotic fucker along??

More crag wildlife. This wee fella (2 inches long) was a bit dopey. Probably highly confused by the weather. Last time I was in this bit of Europe it was 34'C most days. This time 20-ish and showery on a few days. Most of the rock dries fairly quick although obviously fresh breezy conditions are best.




No tears please, it's a waste of good suffering. Luxembourg makes an easy and palatable rainy day excursion, being a mere 30 minutes to the city limits. The Old Quarter and city battlements are cool, although, in general, fuck culture (I still like cool architecture tho).

The end result of this is, errr, more Nesscliffe and Pfalz psyche. Of course it is. Personal reasons you see.


Source: Berdorf. (http://)
Title: fiendblogLeftovers from Dartmoor and Wye Valley Sport.
Post by: comPiler on September 18, 2018, 07:00:22 pm
Leftovers from Dartmoor and Wye Valley Sport.


All photos ©®™ Mark Davies / Dark Mavis / Pylon Kunt 2016, 2017, ad infinitum


Leprechaun, Irishman's Wall, Dartmoor. Lovely wee spot that we visited as part of a hectic Dartmoor photoshoot weekend (IW, King's Tor, bivvy, Sheep's Tor, Great Links Tor (approx 200 mile walk-in), Myrtle Turtle Quarry), which turned out to be pretty satisfying as PK got some genuinely great photos for the book. This route above was a merry jaunt after battling on Non Metallic Silver to the left. Non Metallic Metals is a toy soldier painting technique which I particularly dislike as it's only good from set angles and it's usage is mostly driven by fashion and trends. I had to do the route regardless but made sure to huff about it.


The Legend Of Pip, Haytor Quarry, Dartmoor. I had to do this route because of my then landlady's whippet, Pip (apparently a bit fat for a whippet, I'm not so sure):
The route itself is a nice little solo, somewhat of a dodgy landing and committing off the deck, but fine quarried granite.

Two Mules For Sister Sara, Woodcroft Quarry, Wye Valley. Woodcroft is a cataclysmic hole to rival the worst of Peak Lime quarries but scattered around the dire F6a-choss-infested walls, there are some fine micro-tiers of good rock and techy climbing despite the aesthetics. Rippled And Toned just left of that groove is a great compression arete.

A Blast From The Past, Woodcroft Quarry, Wye Valley. More decent Horseshoe-esque gems.

 Saudi Air, Woodcroft Quarry, Wye Valley. And more.

Don't Lower The Tone, Woodcroft Quarry, Wye Valley. Tone already well lowered with shorts/stockings combos. PK described my style as "death metal bassist" which is possibly the nicest compliment I've ever had :). Pity this one didn't make it into the book as I rather like the shameless grindr-profile flexing errr I mean the balance of climbing and ivy and tension in the move (the latter being quite genuinely as it was thin and fierce and bloody satisfying even if I only stayed on with a blind toe-scrape mid-move).


Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit, Ban-y-Gor, Wye Valley. I had far too many photoshoots at Sandbag-y-Gor and got increasingly disillusioned in the place. On the first visit it was okay including this tricky wee fucker which I think I knee-barred on.

So Gross, Ban-y-Gor, Wye Valley. The final visit to this hole and one which put me off South West climbing. This slice of bolted Brown & Whillans grimness was the only silver lining and another version of the grotty cleft furtling ended up as the surprise and subversive cover shot (I've already apologised to PK for any massive drops in sales).

One of these days I need the cantankerous old cunt to take some photos of me on routes I'm really psyched by. But that's not happening imminently, bah. Still fun to be part of the process.


Source: Leftovers from Dartmoor and Wye Valley Sport. (http://)
Title: fiendblogTrajectory Of The Twat
Post by: comPiler on September 19, 2018, 01:01:34 am
Trajectory Of The Twat


Left foot up smearing, right foot up smearing, step left foot onto high edge, bring right hand over above left hand onto the arete... Something - still unknown - gives way, the compressed posture springs me out, arcing me down, the meticulously planned running belay comes tight, slamming me into the overlap like a soft meat wrecking ball. Thigh on the overlap, calf on the shelf below, knee luckily nestled in-between. Lower to the ground I was nowhere near, a couple of minutes unable to think or speak, but through the haze of pain I am weight-bearing so the bones at least are intact. Half an hour sorting kit, a mile hobble on the rough wet track on my own in the dark. Recompress myself into the car seat, test I can do an emergency stop, drive to Macclesfield A&E, x-ray confirms no breaks, but massive swelling, bruising, and a full length compression stocking for the foreseeable future. Hartington Hall hostel. Drive to Glasgow via almost every services to keep leg moving. Prop box and pillow under desk so I can use computer... And here I am, from that position to this one.

...

The grit had been called and I was out of the starting blocs pretty quick. After an abortively mediocre weekend at Crookrise, I'd written the list and summoned the determination - both steps that usually summon the rain gods for several months but maybe they were bored after all their exertions throughout autumn?? In an extravagant convergence of Audi A3 TDIs, Tom had driven from St Austell and I had driven from Glasgow and we met at the crag in glorious weather. I'd spent a few years getting inspired by such grit routes, a few days getting intimidated by this route, and a few hours at the crag analysing, calming down, planning and getting inspired. And then I got on it and then I fell off it and then I was lying on the ground thinking:

 "What the FUCK happened?? I had planned so well, I had climbed well, I had fucking FAITH in the grit and that's the whole point of being able to climb it?? And how the fuck can I try anything challenging if I fell off a 'safe' section and here I am lying on the ground??"

This, in a way, was more upsetting than the fall, than the pain, than the failure, than the prospect of injury and recovery. If I do everything right and it still goes wrong (and this isn't some bullshit like winter climbing where the whole route or climate can fuck you over untoward), how can I trust the rock, how can I trust myself?? Mistakes are easier to learn from than lack of mistakes....

Except they were there, and the dark hobble gave me enough time to think about them: In general, I don't fuck around with maximising the safety system, and I try hard not to fuck around with faffing too much these days (it's a work in progress...). This time:

1. I underestimated the need to faff on that one section of the route. I'd got very focused on the start ("traverse right with care" - implying it was remotely difficult when it wasn't, and is part of a much easier route, which I'd have known if I'd have read the guide more) and the finish (clearly bold). I hadn't got focused on the sequence getting to the finish, because hey it wasn't mentioned and it was right next to the gear, right? When I got there it felt tricky but I still didn't take it that seriously - my mind wasn't in the moment, it was in the future, thinking "I just need to get this done so I can be stood up and work out that bold finish". But of course that section still needed focus and really my trademark faffing would have been much more suitable. Don't underestimate the easy / un-mentioned sections on gritstone.

2. I overestimated the safety system. I'd got so focused on the bold finish and using a running belay to not hit the ground, I hadn't considered other risks in the fall and that the running belay might be unsuitable for other sections (though if I had fallen off the finish, the sort of impact I took would still have been better than a groundfall). DOA - Distance, Objects, Angles. I'd been so fixated on the distance of a fall that I hadn't looked at the objects (the overlap) or the angles. Tom did the running belay plan perfectly, but if I'd actually planned for a softer catch on most of the route, I could have avoided such an impact. Consider all aspects of a fall not just the distance, and consider falls from all possible areas of a route.

If I did this sort of route again.... I'd read the book carefully, I'd know the start should okay (but still pay attention to it). I'd divide my focus up more evenly. I'd plan out the gear and running belay better. I'd look at other aspects of the fall and try to plan for those. I'd anticipate challenge throughout the route. I'd take heed if sections started to feel unduly tricky and treat them with respect. And hopefully I wouldn't fuck it up, or if I did I wouldn't fuck myself up. And understand that, I'm pissed off that I failed but I still have some faith.

...



Finally the current state of affairs after a week: I can hobble effectively and almost walk normally (slowly!) if I'm warmed up. My leg is still swollen but the bruising is coming along rather nicely. I'm able to go to the gym but only for arm stuff or very light CV using my legs. I'm aiming to do gentle climbing within another week. I have no idea what muscle damage there is or how long it will be to get full strength back, so outside climbing might be several weeks off, but at least I can train reasonably in the meantime. I can probably bash around with RC cars as long as I don't stand in one position too long...


Source: Trajectory Of The Twat (http://)
Title: fiendblogThree of the decentest.
Post by: comPiler on September 19, 2018, 01:00:09 pm
Three of the decentest.


It's been a long time since proper blogging. Sucktember slipped into Cocktober and then into Knobvember and no-one noticed except the days of rain and sunshine and showers grew shorter, as they invariably do, but not drier. The lack of proper blogging might correspond to the lack of proper climbing, my grand dreams of an autumn cranking to match my spectacular spring in the South West were diluted into homeopathic proportions and washed down the drain. I got South of the border a couple of times, one of them was to Armathwaite with a bone dry forecast and the whole thing was damp and I did some shitty greasy boulder problems in the first bay while Katy's lunatic Jadedog dug a WW1 style trench and turned the highballs left of Time And Motion Man back into proper solos and it was a fucking waste of 3.5 hours driving. As was Berryhill where I failed on an HVS (!) and then out of "sunshine and showers" only one of those came true.

Cheviot from Berryhill. Atmospheric and bollox.

BUT.

Amongst all this fucking DROSS, there were moments of enlightenment, and by enlightenment I mean doing cool routes that might be a world away from my mega-inspirations but are also a world away from greasy eliminate bouldering (best left to Peak Limestone fans and other perverts who rank only slightly above winter climbers and vegans in the fucking weirdo stakes). Such as:

Counting Out Time, Newtyle Quarry:



Aka proper climbing at Newtyle which has become infamous as the dank hole in the ground where the aforementioned winter perverts gather to slot their tools into grubby slots. It's also got an impressive sheet of slab which no-one climbs because of it's 2 minute access, loads of mid-grade climbs, quick drying, evening sun, scarcely an hour from the Central Belt etc etc so why would anyone actually climb there instead of queuing for chalk-crusted smeg on Marlena wall or polishing Dumby some more?? Anyway it must be said that the slab itself is a bit bold, the E2 warm-up I did had one good cluster of gear in 25m. But on the other hand this gem has a great line and loads of gear (even at the "bold" overlap), it also has a proper slate smearing crux and overall is quite a treat. I loved it.


Whipper Snapper, Ashie Fort:




Another crag in the "hordes of the unwashed polishing the pebbles at Moy while this more accessible, closer to Inverness, equally sunny and infinitely more scenic crag languishes relatively under-used" ilk. I like Ashie. It's tricky, techy, necky, can look a bit mossy (nothing that more traffic wouldn't help), but it is essentially a grit-scaled conglomerate crag in strictly the mellowest of situations. This day, sandwiched in the middle of the dreichness, started badly struggling up a seeping HVS and finished well styling up this elegant and bold route. A vast amount of gear can be faffed in before the crux scoop, at least one or two bits might hold. Thankfully with a bit of composure and commitment it all went smoothly, another little gem.


Duel Variation, Dunkeld:



No photo for this one so here's a picture of an enormous and rather cool caterpillar instead. Due to the weather I had too many visits to Polney (and Upper Cave but I'm not talking about that), none of which involved doing what I really wanted to do. Something about this really steep impending wall with flakey crimps and a tied down sling for gear before eventually getting a distant peg put me off. As usual enough psyche and I eventually crack, one of the visits I had the usual indepth look, then a sit down and a good talk with myself about committing to the process, and then did it. Did it bloody well too, flicked a skyhook on during the steepness, cranked to the peg, tried a cam to back it up, didn't fit but I didn't faff, just ignored it and rocked over the lip to not glory but the satisfaction of snap decisions erring on the side of actually doing the climbing. And yeah another great wee route.

The moral being, good routes are good routes even if they're not quite the good routes I wanted to be doing....


Source: Three of the decentest. (http://)
Title: fiendblogGym'll fix it.
Post by: comPiler on September 19, 2018, 07:00:20 pm
Gym'll fix it.


The simple raw beauty of an authentic natural experience. This is not the gym.

Looking down from that raw beauty into the septic miasma of Glasgow. Gyms lurk here.

It's raining (I don't even know if it is, but it's a fair assumption), we're training. Circuits, hangs, bloques, plastic, resin, wood.......metal?? All of the above??

Gyms are awful places. Crass, bland, utterly sterile, full of terrible music and desperate girls on the treadmills and inflated meatheads flexing in the mirror. About as far from the raw beauty of a natural experience as it gets....but out in that environment, say, braced and dangling above the sea on the "grossly overhanging" Call To Arms, those very arms and and indeed legs burning, the idea of having some fitness and strength is quite an appealing one and could even make gyms an appealing means to that end. 

Of course, that end is climbing and gym training isn't climbing training, as people (often people who are already very physically fit with fully functional legs that require little additional work AND very climbing fit etc etc) are quick to point out... "Do more climbing training", they say. Bloody great idea if you have rhino skin and steel tendons. On the other hand when I have the following options...

1. Train climbing 5+ times a week, bouldering, routes, boarding.
Likely result: Unable to climb hard after first week due to fucked skin and fingertips. Unable to climb at all after second week due to chronic golfer's elbow and shoulder impingments. 

2. Train climbing 3+ times a week, rest on the other days.
Likely result: Able to cope with the climbing level, get fat and demoralised in between times. Climbing progress slows due to weight and slothfulness.

3. Train climbing 3+ times a week, do awesome outdoor activity 2 days a week.
Likely result: Able to cope with the climbing level, but either drown, get hypothermia, or give up awesome outdoor activity as it's too bloody miserable in Scotland in winter - or even if I survived I'd be too hampered by DVTs to make full use of a glorious hillwalk in horizontal sleet. 

4. Train climbing 3+ times a week, go to gym 2 times a week.
Result: Able to cope with the climbing level, complimentary training at gym improves core and antagonists, along with CV in a drier environment, weight is stable and climbing progresses due to stimulated muscles and improved motivation/energy.

...then hopefully those uberfit uninjured climbing hones can forgive me if I choose the option that actually works for me.

Bear in mind I try to use the gym quite sensibly - I have no intention of becoming an inflated meathead, although I do enjoy lifting heavy metals in short controlled bursts:


Yup actually having FUN doing a physically challenging activity can be a useful motivator.... In terms of weights, I've spent a bit of time looking at bodybuilding videos on Youtube to find what is effective for bulking up and finding common threads e.g.: focusing on the 8-15 rep range, aiming for the maximum time-under-tension, isolating specific muscles, not resting weights on fully extended/contracted limbs, doing specific muscle group sessions, eating a lot to support muscle growth etc AND THEN DOING THE OPPOSITE e.g. focusing on 1RMs and high weights / low reps for pure strength, aiming for maximum effort in very short bursts, working overall movements, resting between reps and long rests between sets, mixing in all different muscles groups in small doses for each one, and trying to eat healthily but not excessively.

My usual gym training consists of some of (in varying proportions):

Climbing relevant training:
Pull-ups
Lat pull downs
Rows
- All pretty damn obvious. I don't mind mixing in some higher reps with these as I figure a little bit of muscle gain from pulling down on stuff is probably offset from being able to, errr, pull down on stuff.
Antagonist weight training:
Benchpress
Shoulder press
- Bog standard antagonist stuff. High weight low reps for these, warm-up on 5s, then down to 3s, then down to 1RM. Total of 15 reps overall with lots of rests. I love the motions of both of these especially bench.
Dips
- Also standard antagonist and probably good for helping with mantles. I usually do these in sets of 10, again banking on relevant muscle gains.
Leg weight training:
Deadlifts
- I love deadlifts. If you don't love deadlifts, check for a pulse. All round great exercise for maximum muscle stimulation. 
Squats
- I have problems with leg fitness, which is particularly noticable on steep uphills. I figure that a bit of leg strength might help. Also good for rock-overs.
- High weight low rep stuff for both of these of course. I don't want fucking cyclist thighs.
Core training:
Leg raises
Machine crunches
Machine rotations
- Bog standard core. Again I don't mind doing longer sets for these as they are so relevant to climbing.
CV training:
Compound lifts
- Very light weight clean and jerk into overhead press, renegade rows etc. Overall body and good heartrate boosters in a short time.
Sledge pushing
- The sledge is a cunt, nuff said. This is THE most relevant exercise I've found for slogging uphill with a rucsac on, not least because I hate it, so it must be right.
Rowing machine
Recumbent cycling
- Both obvious, both specifically good for me with my legs, the former as it uses other muscles too, the latter as the recumbent posture encourages venous return. I do these after the heavy weights as they're meant to be more effective once muscles are stimulated.

Will this get me to "tick 8a" or "first Enumber" or whatever crass fucking bullshit I'm supposed to aim for?? Not directly, no. Will it improve my body and mind overall to be better prepared for climbing training and physically harder climbing subject to a lot of climbing training?? Yes, yes it has.

Gyms are awful places. But they are useful places to push yourself physically and improve yourself physically, and I've kinda grown fond of them in that way.....and all those poncy twats down there, at least they're putting the effort into something physical and active and progressive....

The music still fucking sucks tho.



Source: Gym'll fix it. (http://)
Title: fiendblogThe fleet.
Post by: comPiler on September 20, 2018, 01:01:34 am
The fleet.


I quite like radio controlled cars...

Car: HPI Savage XS
Type: 1/12 4WD monster truck
Upgrades: HPI SS-40WP servo, HPI CVD axles, HPI HD drive cups, Proline Big Joe 2.2 wheels, TBone Thrasher bumpers, orange anodised nuts.
Purpose: Everything!! Serious bashing, cruising, crawling, being a RC BEAST.
Speed: 40 mph (2S Lipo)
Finest moments:       


Car: Tamiya Dual Ridge TT02B
Type: 1/10 4WD buggy
Upgrades: Absima CR2S receiver, Savox 9kg servo, Hobbywing Quicrun 13.5T brushless motor, full ball bearings, Tamiya aluminium drive shaft
Purpose: Enjoying the kit build, learning off-road track driving, gentle bashing
Speed: 23 mph (2S Lipo)
Finest moments: 


Car: FTX Colt
Type: 1/18 4WD mini buggy
Upgrades: Absima CR2S receiver, FTX 9g servo, FTX brushless ESC, Hobbywing Ezrun 7800kv brushless motor, FTX aluminium CVD axles, FTX sway bar, custom nylon sheet bumper, blue anodised nuts
Purpose: Melting the ESC and Brushless motor, mini-scale off-road track driving, fast cruising
Speed: 36 mph (2S Lipo)
Finest moments: 


Car: Himoto Mastadon / Maverick Ion XT hybrid
Type: 1/18 4WD mini truggy
Upgrades: Maverick Ion MT wheels, Ion MT front and back bumpers, Ion aluminium shock absorbers, Ion aluminium drive cups, Ion aluminium dog bones, 3S Lipo
Purpose: Bashing, repairing, being too fast for it's own good - will probably sell soon.
Speed: 36 mph (3S lipo)
Finest moments: n/a

Car: Carisma GT24TR
Type: 1/24 4WD micro truggy
Upgrades: Carisma aluminium shock absorbers, Carisma carbon fibre shock towers, Carisma 12000kv brushless motor, pink anodised wheel nuts, custom nylon sheet bumper, custom LED lighting rig
Purpose: Being great value for it's size, bashing, cruising, fixing.
Speed: 31 mph (2S Lipo)
Finest moments: 


Car: Losi Micro Truggy
Type: 1/26 4WD micro truggy
Upgrades: Losi brushless ESC + 2.4ghz receiver upgrade, Losi 2.4ghz transmitter, Losi 10500kv brushless motor, Losi micro SCT front bumper.
Purpose: Being ridiculously fast for it's size, bashing, cruising, good travel RC
Speed: 33 mph (3S lipo)
Finest moments: ....


Car: WLToys P929
Type: 1/28 4WD micro truck
Upgrades: PNRacing 50T brushed 130 motor, custom LED lighting rig
Purpose: Street cruising, night-time cruising - will probably sell soon.
Speed: 23 mph (2S Lipo)
Finest moments: 


Car: Oorlando Hunter
Type: 1/35 4WD micro crawler
Upgrades: 300 RPM motor upgrade, HPI RF45 receiver
Purpose: Fascinating micro-kit build, desktop crawling, annoying cats - will probably sell soon.
Speed: n/a
Finest moments: annoying cats


Possible future aims:
Tamiya Konghead 1/18 6WD monster truck
Traxxas E-Revo VXL TSM 1/16 4WD truggy
Volantex Vector 40cm brushless boat
(RCs follow the n+1 scale, but unlike owning lots of bicycles, it's considerably less geeky and not as certain a guarantee of massive bellendism).


Source: The fleet. (http://)
Title: fiendblogPink and purple.
Post by: comPiler on September 20, 2018, 01:00:09 pm
Pink and purple.


I love a bit of pink and purple action I do.

So it's a strange time at the moment. When I bashed my leg two months ago and I got it x-rayed at Macc A&E, I was a bit lax with hand hygiene and picked up some norovirus or equivalent, which to put it conservatively, was the worst thing in the history of fucking bullshit. So night 1 was hobbling out of The Roaches with the biggest leg impact I've taken, night 2 was turning myself inside out, and days 3-5 were existing on ~600 calories average while trying to heal that leg. Can you guess where my immune system went?? No, me neither.

The leg healed really well. Slow and steady and seemingly strong (more on that later).

My insides?? Not so much. Ever since the virus, I've had bouts of nausea every two weeks, lasting many hours, enough to stop me sleeping, stop me eating, and wipe me out for a couple of days. The origin point seems obvious, but the actual problem is unknown - and still being investigated. My diet is much better and I'm taking various natural supplements to help. This has put a dampener on things from my state of mind to my grander climbing plans. However in-between these bouts, after I recover my strength, I'm discovering that my strength is, well, surprisingly okay.

Take the last couple of weekends. Sunday day time I got out for the first time in 2 months and did this:



Really good fun. Tiny sloping ripples, extended moves, and a precarious feel. Nice day out. Proper mint connies and all that. That evening I feel happy, eat plenty of chicken and a light green salad, and soon started feeling nauseous out of the blue. Neck two anti-nausea tablets, crawl into bed, and finally pass out at 2am (early by bout standards). Couldn't do fuck all for 2-3 days. Rest of the week feel gurgly and bloated having started taking strong pro-biotics (bad timing).

Friday I don one of my highly motivational death metal vests (Cattle Decapitation), go to the gym feeling weak, and bust out a PB of 80kg x 2 benchpress (can usually only manage one). Saturday I swap to another vest (Napalm Death), brave a freezing cold Ratho, do my hardest indoor lead ever and get very close on an equally hard one. Sunday I am keep the ND vest on as I am still awaiting a fresh vest (Behemoth), go to the gym again, 3rd day on and not having done proper deadlifting for nearly 3 months, warm up, equal my 160kg and death-growl my way to a 170kg PB (see, the leg is okay). Hopefully if / when the next bout hits, I will be able to take some heart in this.

Back to Saturday and purple routes. I was chatting to Big Bob as usual and he pointed out a new Purple 7b on the Justice Wall. "Saved it for weeks, but blew it"...."Totally sustained"..."Fighting all the way in the middle"...."No rests at all"...."Will be a good top-roping training route". Robert and I are sort of vaguely equal in our climbing. What he lacks in strength, bravery, and strong vests, he makes up for in height, tallness, reach, and, errr, ummm, okay stamina, too much stamina. Generally if it's too pumpy for him then it's waaaaay too pumpy for me, but that's okay, having done all of my "onsightable" routes at the Mighty R (the other Mighty R, huh), I'm just after pulling a bit harder on things I won't get up, but will have a good fight however far I get.

Initially, this goes to plan. My first proper route is another Purple 7b, but this time on the New Comp Wall, a pure power-to-weight section that is my anti-style - particularly when it's a 7b ladder of incuts and pinches and no jugs in sight. However instead of getting shut down halfway up, I somehow end up one bolt from the chain and have to jump off as I can do the moves but not the clips. Not bad.

Sticking with the theme, it's on to Justice Wall Purple. I do like doing the earlier sections of harder routes here as they give a good cranky fight compared to easier full length stamina plods - good to mix in both. My aim is to get to the 2/3 height main lip, as I reckon I will be fine on the fingery lower section, while the steep middle section has decent enough holds to keep going but will burn me out totally, and it will all be good training / fun. Initially it all seems to work: The start is cranky and crimpy enough to offer little respite. Going into the middle section, Robert's warning comes true - all the decent holds are tucked around or beneath volumes ensuring they rapidly disappear as footholds, leaving volume smears and sketchy moves. I'm nearly off on some reachy moves part way but sporadic falling practise gives me the confidence to just go for it, and I stay attached - even at the lip. Aren't I supposed to be dangling on the rope, nursing my forearms already?? Apparently not - even when another tricky crossover to a sloping rail nearly spits me off again, but the frictional condition is a silver lining to the freezing cold and my paws drape along it. Another on/off move sees me, increasingly surprised, at a good edge shakeout, far further up than I should be, I can barely hear Lauren's distant encouragement below. I've been fighting for a while now so keep doing it, vigorous arm flicks and hyperventilating lead into another I-should-have-dropped-this reach to micro-jugs and then somehow the finish. My lungs are still hurting on the drive back.

In the grand scheme of things, while I feel occasionally fucking rotten, and indoor climbing is irrelevant toss, this does show some potential...

Oh and the pink part of the equation?? I've done quite a few pinks down at TCA. They are great problems with plenty of techniness and always make training fun. Possibly a bit too much fun as the weirdo knacky slopey ones always tend to lure me away from the pure power training a lard-arse like me should be doing. Including the squeezy egyptian volume sloper tickle problem on the new comp wall. One weak and queasy Sunday it felt entirely unfeasible, a few days later I unlocked it (and several others) fairly determinedly, mostly helped by Fultonious shouting "SAUSAGE" at me as I snatched for the shapely finishing hold  (more like a croissant shape to be honest but if Ally has got pink sausage on the mind who am I to argue).


Source: Pink and purple. (http://)
Title: fiendblogAn Enthralling Experience.
Post by: comPiler on September 20, 2018, 07:00:10 pm
An Enthralling Experience.




Possible progressions:
Despite mild but persistent illness, despite a winter mostly off due to that and my leg, I'm tentatively confident with my climbing at the moment. I've been training quite regularly and feeling quite adequate on indoor bloques and routes. Due to the bleak misery of Scotland I've had winters before that are solely dedicated to training but have led into springs solely dedicated to doing pretty well outdoors. However I still have half a mind (okay, most of my mind, it's a bit obsessed) on what I could do to progress. At the moment, by far the biggest improvements to my climbing would be to fix my digestive issues (in progress - seen consultant, due for ultrasound, more bloods, stool test, possible endoscopy) and move somewhere near an actual decent amount of crags (not nearly as in progress as it should be). In terms of what I might actually train for, apart from the usual bollox (stronger, lighter, fitter, lighter, more flexible, lighter, etc), one thing I am focusing on is.....focus. Specifically trying to maintain focus and composure when the situation becomes physically and mentally stressful, which obviously happens a lot climbing trad at your limit, and is harder just to climb through than other disciplines. I'm calling this....

Calm amongst the chaos:
The idea being to keep putting myself in mildly stressful situations while training, and keeping aware enough to accept the chaos, acknowledge how it makes me feel, and try hard to keep calm - and all that entails, e.g. maintaining efficiency, precision, relaxation, etc. Obviously a lot easier said than done but the idea and the awareness is a start. At Kyloe In the other day, there was chaos on two scales: The chaos of the weather, very cool, very windy. Sitting with my back against The Nadser, watching the wind tunnel of tree clearance stretching beneath the grossly underused High T wall, pines weaving and waving at me, there was feeling of calm in my little oasis of light breeze. And the chaos of my initial method of trying the start of the problem: left hand on a ripple combining a 1/4 first joint razor for the lower two fingers and a micro sloper for the forefinger, right hand on a decent 1/3 joint slimper, left foot in micro-navel pocket, pull desperately with left hoping there's not the 1mm creep of skin that is insta-fail, then right toe on a sloping nubbin.....placing the toe and trusting it is the stress, all points of contact tentative and ready to fail. I focus on focus, holding it and springing for the sloping v-notch, occasionally tickling it. Despite feeling a long way from the problem, I enjoy putting my principle into action and viewing it as training, until I find...

A surprising solution:
During rest periods (mostly to let my skin cool down, despite 4'c air temps and -2'c overall temps from 20-30mph westerlies), I alternate between drinking camomile tea, providing moral heckling to The Fox who is mostly eschewing Kyloe power bouldering in favour of easy soloing into moss top-outs, good on him I say as the routes here are bloody marvellous and deserve a lot more traffic, and idly fondling the other non-holds on the Nadser. Bored of diminishing returns on my low-percentage start, I try pulling on on with inimical left hand ripple, right hand on a gratton adjacent to the decent slimper, right toe in a lower central micro-navel, left foot crossed behind me for balance but ready to spring into the original left pocket. This all makes sense but also makes most use of the steepness of the "slab" start, surely I shouldn't be able to compress that hard between two tiny holds, but with cool fresh skin, they feel like...

Bleeding bivvy ledges:
Which is one of the highlights of this problem and indeed winter bouldering in general. The gratton in particular is an unexpected delight, I wish I'd measured it or at least videoed it for my own satisfaction, maybe 3-4mm, perfectly incut as such things are, maybe 1/6th first joint. Yet it works, I squeeze hard enough, flick my left foot on, and catch the v-notch comfortably. I forget how I fell off, maybe surprise that this method is so much more feasible. I do what I always do with a breakthrough, shoes off, go for a stroll, keep both skin and mind calm and dry. Stepping back on, The Fox is loitering to provide ME with moral heckling, and I already have a planned sequence for the top. One go I'm stretching for penultimate slopers but I'm not sure where I'm going and have a hunch it won't work. A quick trot around and a thorough clean and chalk, another go and I tickle the now-obvious holds but too dynamically. Accepting that the full fingertip mantle of the left-hand pico-ramp - pinky springing off to get maximum pressdown - is both unfeasible and essential, I teeter further and do it. A problem that I thought would take many visits is suddenly done in 2 hours (and 4 goes with my new starting beta), surely that can only be...

Cheating conditions:
It's a concept I've had for many years and have sometimes applied well: Try hard with most optimum conditions imaginable, fool the holds into actually being holds, fool myself into actually climbing things that on paper I shouldn't be able to. The essence of learning to boulder on gritstone, I expect. Pretty sure I did that on Brad's Arete pre-ban, definitely did it on Spinal Slab burning 8A Lord Loggington off in attempts required, and always had it planned for Soft On The G in sub-zero temps. And here too, it's essential. The idea of trying to pull on these tinies in anything less than perfect weather is as incomprehensible and bewildering to me as Turkish poetry, thinking in 4 dimensions, or choosing veganism, while moulding my firm skin onto them this day is a genuine pleasure, almost as much as the penultimate move. Given my usual inhibitive sweatiness, I'll happily take this, although I won't take the given grade since: 1. It blatantly isn't and 2. Bouldering grades are horseshit anyway. I will definitely take the thrill of the experience, though :)


Source: An Enthralling Experience. (http://)
Title: fiendblogPeak Fiend??
Post by: comPiler on September 21, 2018, 01:00:52 am
Peak Fiend??


I did some bouldering recently and it looked - and sounded - a bit like this:



According to old skool legend and mild-mannered intellectual Andy Popp:
We have reached peak Fiend - good work sir.
Which made my day :). What is Peak Fiend? Ridiculous clothing, ridiculous music, ridiculous enthusiasm for climbing despite both of those? But more than that, it's all just genuine. It's just me. Sure some of it might be a bit silly for some people, sure I might ham up certain aspects to entertain/amuse/provoke others....but those aspects are all part of me. Not that I have to justify this and it's all a bit navel gazing (I need an angled mirror to see past the gut), but it amuses me to explain the process:

6...

A few years ago when I was bouldering around in The County, I saw some cool roof problems that it would be nice to do when it got a bit warmer: Bechstein at Back Bowden, Roof LH at Kyloe Out and Neb Roof at Shaftoe. All properly horizontal, all looked great, all 6C. Hmmm, 6C6C6C....666, this triggered off some nostalgia for my teenage dabblings in LaVey-ian Satanism (before I transitioned into even more ludicrous and unjustifiable militant aestheism before settling on a more realistic agnosticism) and my more mature appreciation for music linked to the dark side in general, and thus provided a theme for the climbing. There had to be 3, they had to be 6C, I had to do them all - not 2, not 4, not a 7A sneaking in there. My aspergers demanded it.

Vague further plans included trying to flash them, trying to do them all in a day, trying to flash them all in a day. Hah! Peak Fiend might be many things but it's not climbing that bloody good. As it turns out Roof LH was abandoned due to being more like 7A+, I did the other two in an hour or so each and after two hours on RLH there were several moves I couldn't do in isolation, B4 Traverse at Back Bowden was subbed in off the benches (Goat Traverse and Extreme Rock were considered but neither made the cut), it might not be a true roof but it is suitably horizontal and suitably great fun. Also abandoned was the idea of doing these in warmer times as would befit such burl, I got psyched and got on with it. This of course required the optimum clothing balance to keep most of my body warm but my skin cool enough for all the slopers. Hence beanie, vest and tracksuit bottoms, a matter of pure practicality and any colour-matching a matter of pure coincidence.

...6...

Bechstein went down fairly quickly, the trio of warm-ups to the right and breezy cave situation setting me up well. The sequence went exactly how I envisaged except for a missing foot sequence going for the lip - and was as cool as I envisaged with the crazy press into a vertical gaston in a roof and flicking into a fingertip undercling, all made feasible by an initially scary (until it popped out annoyingly easily) heel-toe. Neb Roof had always looked the hardest to me, massive holds but only for the upper limbs and since my lower ones weigh quite a bit from DVT distortion / deadlifting beef, I had to do something with them. The notorious toe-hooks first had me raging about them being too morpho for my stumpy frame, but then morphed into a feasible sequence of several feet first movements - all very satisfying. B4 Traverse I'd tried before and was happy to have the baltic breeze on this one, a very precise heel and very precarious slopers saw me scraping along it on a last-ditch attempt of the day.

....6

After this day I drove back feeling exhausted and nauseous, the idea of trying to get a video edited was considerably less appealing than passing out in the Harthill Services carpark for 12 hours. But I guessed correctly my state was cold/hunger induced so at least opened Movie Maker over dinner as my innards slowly settled. Of course the soundtrack was a key issue and I already had plans: Drokz - I Accept The Word Of Satan was essential, which I have on this compilation - yes I still genuinely love gabber, and was listening to some on the way down to Back Bowden the second time. But could I do more?? I've never been a Slipknot fan but have always liked their Heretic Anthem for the catchy chorus "If you're 555 then I'm 666, what's it like to be a heretic?" . Could I mix that in?? Hmmm well...

An hour after getting back feeling like a zombie, I'm downloading Mixxx. Half an hour after that I'm bouncing in my seat as my crude first ever mix actually works: Dropping the first beat of IATWOS as a post-chorus HA breakdown starts, the kickdrum pauses and returns with a bass bounce just as a shouted "Heretic" finishes, then a quick pause in the gabber allows me to flick the speed back up to it's 220 bpm. I am actually more excited than doing any of the problems, as ace as they were. For extra satanic flavour, I manage to drop the main start of Gorgoroth's Untamed Forces (which I have on their album - yes I still genuinely love extreme metal and was listening to this on the way back from Shaftoe) after a drum roll on IATWOS, not a proper mix but the speedcore drumming on UF works well. 3 problems, 3 tracks, one unholy theme, I am unduly giddy.

Peak Fiend is real Fiend...



Source: Peak Fiend?? (http://)
Title: fiendblogPfalz Pfrustrations.
Post by: comPiler on September 21, 2018, 01:00:27 pm
Pfalz Pfrustrations.


Trip 3....days 16-24....crags 26-34... After one trip in a sweltering summer and one trip in a claggy autumn, surely a fresh spring trip would be the time to really push myself on the ever-intriguing Pfalz sandstone?? 3rd time lucky or maybe not...

There were tantrums, swearing, gear-throwing, sulking (and subsequent apologies to the team), and then plenty of realisations, learnings, and semi-calm acceptance that the ever-intriguing Pfalz sandstone is bloody difficult and I might have to adjust my aims. I focused on trying hard instead of climbing hard, ticking crags instead of ticking routes, and had a great trip overall (which was probably inevitable given the area). I also learnt a fair bit so I'm writing this partly to share the knowledge and partly to remind myself for the similarly inevitable "next trip".

Pfalz Challenges:

1. Friction and conditions are absolutely crucial, breeze especially (rare *).
2. Routes require a mixture of gritstone technicality / friction AND limestone power.
3. Routes are often incredibly cruxy with easily droppable cruxes.
4. Some "sport" routes can be pretty bold / committing.
5. Specific common hard moves are: precise deadpoints to small pockets, massive reaches / full dynos (sometimes to non-jugs), hard pulls / rockovers on razor rugosities, slopey mantles / lip turns, figuring out best sequences from a sea of pockets **.

Pfalz Grades:

1. They are VERY variable and random. Expect a full grade variance on up to 50% of routes.
2. They have no correspondence to the standard grade tables, being at least a grade harder.
3. A few grade comparisons from similar sandstone:
Helsby:
Flake Wall E4 6a - Pf  7/7+
Calcutta Wall E4 6a - Pf  7+
Brandenburg Wall E3 5c - Pf  7-
Armathwaite:
Viennese Oyster E3 5c - Pf 7-
 Diamond Lil E3 5c - Pf 7-
Berdorf:
Arete Paulette 7a+ - Pf  8-
Voleur De Spits 7a+ - Pf  7+/8-
Yellow Submarine 7a - Pf  7+
Mike 7a - Pf  7+/8-
Nesscliffe:
Marlene E4 6a - Pf 7/7+
Straight Talk E3 6a - Pf 7+
Red Square E1 5b - Pf 6/6+
4. Since the routes are so cruxy, a comparison with grit routes might be more accurate, e.g. E3 6a rather than 6c/+ for 7/+, E4 6b rather than 7a for 8-. Remember to factor in the variable grades AND how variable very bouldery cruxes will feel***.

Pfalz Tactics:

1. Heed conditions as key - adapt challenges to suit.
2. Toughen skin constantly with anti-hydral
3. Take a spare rope bag for the sand, clipstick for miles high first bolts, pointy shoes for pockets (dragons for me), brush for clipstick for bouldery starts.
4. Accept Pfalz is hard, get focused right away, e.g. deadpoint precision as early as possible in trip.
5. Always plan for various move options, always look around for holds and possibilities (despite chalked white-herrings).
6. Heed the likely challenges** and train those as much as general climbing prior to trip.

N.B.

* -  The crucial breeze is still a difficult factor to predict from the weather, as due to the endless valleys, hillocks, forests and sandstone ridges, the wind can wander around and appear/disappear of it's own fickle will.
** - The likely challenges were what I learnt specifically from the harder routes I failed on and the harder routes I succeeded on - there were distinctly common types of crux moves.
*** - The variety / morphology of crux difficulties is very similar to grit and cannot be underestimate.

Finally...

If all else fails, just do some awesome sandstone bimbling on funky towers and ridges :)


If you've read this far, feel free to be rewarded with some entirely useless non-climbing photos:













Source: Pfalz Pfrustrations. (http://)
Title: fiendblogPfalz Pfotos.
Post by: comPiler on September 21, 2018, 07:00:49 pm
Pfalz Pfotos.


Okay okay some proper climbing ones to share the psyche (I'm still waiting for some others from the team, I'll update this when they get sent over...):

Warning images might feature sandstone, trees, power vests, compression stockings, etc.

Update: Added some photos that Kirsty took with her fancy DSLR:

Neueste Kreation 7, Hochstein - day 1, route 3. Quite a steady start to proceedings.

Sudostkante 7, Frohndellpfeiler - really cool route this. Started up a gnarly little "HVS 5b" crack on the right side of the arete, swung into a cool heel-toe rest in space, and then yarding up the crest on perfect flat jugs. This was shortly before failing on the brilliant Spidermove because I was too casual deadpointing from a slopey crimp to a two finger pocket. Cue the mother of all tantrums and a bit of tree-climbing to recover my quickdraws from where they ended up.

Langer Amenweg 7+, Spirkelbacher Rauhbergpfeiler - very cool route with probably only grade 7 climbing, but 7+ commitment and excitement including a handless knee mantle onto a constricted ledge, pinchy bridging up a blank hanging groove and then an obligatory exposed run-out. Can I get an amen?!


Planet der Affen 7 @ Buttelfels - typically aesthetic and scenic little wall, albeit without the usual towering tower above. This route had a tricky start to get to the bolt an a fun finish on good holds. This was shortly before failing on an excellent 7+ wall because I got fooled by white herrings and didn't look around to find the un-chalked easy sequence, there might have been some rage.


Eroika 7- @ Spirkelbacher Rauhfels - grand old wall of masses of honeycomb pockets and spaced bolts / threads. Easy and unrefined but a nice adventure. This was shortly after failing on a great bouldery 8- with a hard deadpoint to a 2 finger pocket - I was very focused and determined but half a cm too shallow, gutted.


Intensivstation 8- @ Dahner Kuckuckfels - something hard I didn't actually fail on. The crux involved a merciless rockover via a razor crimp, in the first shot. My sort of move but even so part way through I nearly ground to a halt and really hard to dig deeper and crank harder. The most satisfying move of the trip.


Klink Flink 7- @ Weiherwande - easy but very aesthetic wee scoop thing. A nice warm-up.


Lange Westwand 7- @ Ringsberg Westpfeiler - very nice wall this. I did a sketchy 7- on the right slab below the arch, an easy 7+ on the right slab above the arch, a cool 7/7+ up the right side of the main wall, and this really nice easy 7- up the middle-left side (where my rope is in the 2nd shot). Pfalz wall bimbling at it's best.


 Zu Fruh Gelacht 8- @ Luger Geiersteine -  a very aesthetic wall on impeccable rock. It involved a jump from a slopey pocket to a decent rail then a grovelly slopey lip-turn over the bulge above (2nd shot). Good cool conditions for this. This was my day of "trying hard not climbing hard" and around this I failed on a big 7+ with a desperate precarious crux and then a burly slopey lip-turn that I fell off, an 8 just left of this route with a big dyno to an unexpectedly slopey break that I fell off, and another 8 with more desperate precarious climbing eventually leading to a brutally hard slopey lip turn that I fell off. How the fuck I managed to fail on all that lot and not lie down in the middle of the road waiting for an HGV to take me out, god only knows.


Direkte Talwand RH 7+ @ Dingentalturm -  bit of an odd line as I think the original direct is suppose to go left of the upper bolt and a new sport route seems to join it and finish up right, but what we did was the logical direct line and really good, with positive moves on positive but diminishing honeycomb leading to an easier "resistance" finish. All with a fine towering backdrop of course.



Source: Pfalz Pfotos. (http://)
Title: fiendblogFuck This Shit.
Post by: comPiler on September 22, 2018, 01:01:09 am
Fuck This Shit.


I've been ill for six months now. The best estimate of what I've got is some damage to the small intestine and surrounds (maybe gut lining, sub-clinical inflammation, gut flora balance, SIBO or something), under the broader banner of post-viral / post-infectious IBS of the upper digestive tract (as tentatively diagnosed by a gastroenterologist and a nutritionist - the latter also suggesting low stomach acid and low digestive enzymes exacerbating the issue). This was caused when I contracted norovirus or similar at exactly the same time I'd just had a big leg impact my body was trying to heal, thus not healing the intestinal trauma from the virus - see first paragraphs here. This manifests in fortnightly bouts of nausea with sleep deprivation, loss of appetite, low energy, low mood, as well as general mild queasiness, indigestion, and occasional soreness.

This was bad before Christmas, had started to ease off a couple of months ago, and then came back almost as bad a month ago. This aptly summed up my general status a few weeks back:


Obviously there should be a reciprocal link from low mood > back to > PVIBSUDT, I know full well that mood and stress affect digestion, and I am taking steps to improve my mood, but it's a natural reaction to the issues in the first place.

More recently, you could take that whole diagram, factor in on one side the singularity of focus I've had on getting this issue fixed, and on the other side the frustration of recommended dietary changes to allow my gut to heal (adding in acid and enzymes, taking out dairy in addition to the wheat / sugar I'd already cut out, so I've removed about half the food variety from my diet, but three quarters of the enjoyment, as well as half again added to the cost), and all that has added up to my climbing going completely off the boil, my whole sense of self diminishing, and a distinct feeling of mild but "proper" depression (which I am familiar enough with to distinguish it from the previous low mood). On the plus side, probably due to the diet, I haven't had a bad nausea bout for a few weeks (but still lots of mild queasiness), but psychologically I definitely do not feel myself.

Yes, I am moaning about this. It's not major, lots of people have lots of worse situations, but, it's affecting me, I want to get it out, maybe it will clear my head a bit.

Yes, I am trying to improve this. It's pissing me off a lot, especially at the start of the summer climbing season with reasonable weather. I have the usual dreams and aspirations and don't want to get even further distant from them. I'm trying to train, I'm trying to get some easy mileage in, I'm trying to keep active full stop, I'm trying to weather it out, and I'm getting some help. Hopefully my gut will heal, hopefully my focus will clear up, hopefully I'll keep some fitness up....and get on with proper climbing at some point...



Source: Fuck This Shit. (http://)
Title: fiendblogGoing Off Piste.
Post by: comPiler on September 22, 2018, 01:00:15 pm
Going Off Piste.


Climbing that is, not skiing. Skiing, I am a shameless piste-bashing corduroy whore. Give me the first run on a nightly groomed steep varied red or black and I love it. Which reminds me, having not been for 8 years, I should really sort that shit out. Climbing though, give me the two star routes, the hidden gems, the esoteric classics, the fantastic routes that aren't in bloody Rockfax honeypotting selects and ARE in definitive guides - and thus are one of the many key reasons to buy definitive guides (or select guides by definitive-producing teams), to keep these off-piste crags and routes detailed and highlighted so they get enough attention and don't disappear under the jungle of neglect.

Or crags that, in the case of the current subject, aren't in any print guides but are well-documented online. This is down in Northumberland, where a short hop over the border takes you into the land of new bouldering venues having high quality detailed PDF topo guides, rather than in Scotland where new venue details are hidden by a veil of obfuscation and only come about by clandestine word of mouth IF you're in the right social circle and understand the right accent.

Bouldering has been one saving grace over the late winter (sometimes on rock, sometimes on the shapely, skin-friendly, technique-testing resin over at the new Eden Edinburgh). Having the highest ratio of muscular stress / technical interest to psychological challenge / logistical difficulty of any climbing sub-genre (basically the moves are hard and everything else is piss), it's been easier to get out and do when I'm feeling okay, without having to commit to big changeable plans or expend a lot of energy when I'm a bit fragile. After warming up on the normal areas, I've headed off-piste in The County, and had some great days out:


Howlerhirst

The most recent escapades with able assistance from The Fox (not enough of this these days since he's spawned a sprog). I'd been here years ago for a bit of nice, typically underused trad, with development of the "quarry" section (distinctly un-quarried feeling) the amount of problems has tripled and made a nice circuit. I was particularly chuffed with the high 6C+ wall as it felt quite committing to dyno (not my forte) even above a good landing, but also with the soundtrack which took a couple of hours of editing to get just right, and is a particular favourite of mine. Having got the latest RT album I saw them a few days after this bouldering trip and they were bloody brilliant live as you might expect.

EdlinghamThis is both a video from a while ago AND a crag that is in the book, but of course since it's not BowdenKyloe it doesn't get nearly enough attention. It's not got the density of problems but it's got some really nice ones (enough to come back for, see below). I brought in a rope to clean the highball top-outs of the main buttress problems, but it turns out I hardly needed it......this time....

The Stell

.....and this time I didn't bring in a rope and the main holds on the top-out were seeping and the dry holds were lichenous and it was all a bit epic, but the problem was bloody great (one I had an inkling I could do last time but didn't have the energy / skin / conditions then). Then it was swiftly over to The Stell where the blue skies contrasted nicely with the massive snow-drifts beneath the crag, including one that I'd half slid on with my pads to get down over the top, then after completing the first problem decided to hop back down it again and promptly embedded myself up to my waist, cue much paddling and bellyflopping and emptying my chalkbag of snow, all off-camera alas.

The Stell's vibe, modest height, shapely blocs and bewilderingly soft-touch grades enticed me back for another visit. On arrival it was grey and dull, with a few spots of drizzle, and I somehow managed to pick a colossal sandbag to start working. Hard Times is a couple of grades harder than Ed's Cave Arete, I couldn't even pull on the stand-up. Motivation bottomed out somewhere below zero and I was about to sack it off and trek back to Eden, when I started fondling the slimpers on Too Hard For Blakey - this sucked me right in with it's minimal distillation of climbing down to not just one move, but the feel of one hold (getting the left slimper secure enough to slap), and got me psyched enough for a great day, despite the tripod falling over on the last problem as the rain came in and bashing in my camera lens (estimated repair cost: £213, cost of same model new: £219 UHUH).

High Crag

Another typically oddball day on my own. It says something when the most actual fun part of the day was power-hosing the car partway on the very long slog home. This was to reveal some of the bodywork underneath the liberal coating of mud both it and I got when I parked on the minor road (no signal of course) verge, got it stuck in snow-covered mud, and was furiously trying to excavate it just as I got a caffeine peak (back when I was drinking proper coffee) + blood sugar crash meltdown. Well done me. Two passing locals in a Skoda with only single-figures worth of teeth between them but a thoroughly friendly vibe managed to haul me out, and thus it was on to the crag where I spent a lot of time in a freezing gale wondering about crawling out with a mashed ankle and was it really worth it and what on Earth was I doing. But yes of course it was worth it....

Shitlington

Good name, good crag, good bouldering. A surprisingly normal day where I came, I climbed, I carried around a rusty old rifle and a sheep skull as luck totems and they seemed to work.

So there we go, get out and explore, there's cool stuff out there, it deserves and needs your chalk more than the same old honeypot circuits do. Take a brush and a flask and watch what verge you park on. For me, I've still got to go to Garleigh (in the book, but definitely not a honeypot) and maybe Simonside Plateau (looks mighty nice), although maybe I've run out of conditions this year.

Finally, I had my comeuppance going off-piste route climbing at Callerhues. Despite this being a fairly classic, insta-drying, extremely aesthetic crag with fine rock features, the 30 minute walk (which even I can manage), boldness of the routes, and lack of imagination of climbers means it is unfairly neglected and thus somewhat problematic for the outsider. The grades are a black humour joke in the definitive NMC guide and although rightly improved in the Rockfax select, I wonder how many of the routes were actually re-climbed for the latter?? Worse, the generally great rock is suffering from lichen and dustiness, and the routes are bold and committing enough for this to be seriously off-putting. The ease of cleaning a boulder with a quick look around the top and a brush on a stick is of little use here, so what was supposed to be a lengthy mileage day turned out to be a couple of nervy, if good routes and general frustration with the situation. Maybe someone who lives a bit closer than 2.5 hours drive away could give things a wee scrub there so the inherent quality is restored??


Source: Going Off Piste. (http://)
Title: fiendblogMidsummer madness.
Post by: comPiler on September 23, 2018, 01:03:22 am
Midsummer madness.


Midsummer last year I was winding my way back up from Bristol after a brief spell doing some of the best and most inspiring climbing I've ever done.

Midsummer this year I am winding my way back from the New Victoria hospital after a long overdue endoscopy. And that's a bit fucking toss really.

(As predicted by the gastroenterologist and nutritionist, the endoscopy has showed nothing significant, although I will be waiting for the results of a biopsy from my duodenum)

So this is a health and climbing blog update (follow up to this) - boring but it gets the information to people who kindly ask me about it.

Innards:

Since the last update I have been on a heavily restricted diet and various digestive supplements, this has been bloody frustrating but seems to be SLOWLY working. I haven't had a full nausea bout for 6 weeks now, and although I often feel mildly queasy and sore, this does indicate some SLOW progress. Yes you might guess the SLOWNESS is also frustrating... I've seen the nutritionist again and she is happy there is some progress and I am on the right track, and also estimates it could be 3-6 months from starting the full diet until I am healed enough (to hopefully go back on to a normal, healthy, and enjoyable diet). That is a....SLOWish timescale but at least it's promisingly finite.

Mindstate:

Since the last update I have had less issues with acute emotional responses to nausea bouts (because there haven't really been any - although the regular discomfort is unavoidably distracting and mood-lowering, albeit quite temporarily), and more issues with "conventional" depression - a natural repercussion from dealing with this illness, even after it's ceased being so physically bad. This too is something I am tackling in various ways, from getting help and support to working on my general thought patterns, to trying to keep active in any form - which has included a lot of going to the indoor wall on gloriously sunny and dry days, and telling myself it will be okay and even having a little bit of fun doing so (mostly thanks to the excellent new Eden Rock opening in Edinburgh).

Climbing:

There has been some! I've struggled a lot with motivation, will-power, focus, organisation, commitment, travelling, planning, and interacting with people - and thus have wasted most of that reliable hot dry spell. I might be slightly grumpy about that. On the other hand, I haven't struggled so much with moving over rock nor especially plastic. I think my fitness and strength are almost as normal, even if my confidence isn't. So when I've finally got in the right situation, I've done okay. Bit of trad, bit more of sport, small numbers, some success, some failure, some fun. Keeping going on the basis that it (climbing and training) will all add up in the end and when I'm finally healed I will be able to climb normally and fully happily.

As a small reward for reading another paint-dryingly exciting post, here's some photos to celebrate some recent climbing:














Source: Midsummer madness. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 23, 2018, 09:45:44 am
I hope you kicked those stacked stones over
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 23, 2018, 12:22:45 pm
I onsight built that stack with no falls! Best tick of the trip.
Title: fiendblogThe Complete Works.
Post by: comPiler on September 23, 2018, 01:00:18 pm
The Complete Works.


Let's rewind to some happier times...and hit play at the start of this:



Sit back, grab a coffee or a gin, and let the seaside wash over you. This is Mike Cheque's long-awaited celebration of the variety, intrigue and enthralling experiences of sea-cliff climbing, and I'm thrilled to be part of it. My section is 32:50 onwards but please watch the whole thing.

So those happier times, 2 years ago I was being filmed with Duncan and Cecile in the Cornwall section, a couple of months before that I was being filmed with Wil and Kate in the....Esoterica section. Despite Cheque filming me on one of the leads of my life (Black Magic at Pentire, although playing a supporting role to Duncan doing the the free version of Eroica 30 years(!) after doing an aid point ascent), my role was firmly (or loosely?) defined in a long weekend around Anglesey as the....comedy relief. The off-piste garish-vested compression-stockinged poshly-swearing oddball. And I'm completely (...) happy with that - it's part of me and my climbing passion! So I wanted to share some background about a section the viewers seem to like....

....The Complete Works :)

  • This is a George Smith E5 5c *, it gets a photo tick and a star in the guidebook. The grade is nominal, the climbing is about technically E1, adjectivally XS. The star is also nominal, 3 being more appropriate.
  • I'd been to The Range a few weeks before, done a few nice esoteric gems, and recced various accessible but adventurous zawns for filming potential, including this one.
  • I admit I was "mildly concerned" but the line was irresistable and The Urge was strong. I'm by no means a veteran of this sort of climbing but....I dunno, I have a, errr, soft spot for weird stuff that is strangely aesthetic, technically easy, but requires methodical progress and constant attention.
  • Despite the seriousness, I did try to make it as safe as possible (despite not wearing a helmet, I know, I know). I placed 32 bits of gear in 24 metres including 12 slings. At least a few of those were adequate. 
  • Yes I did partly enjoy the experience at the time - Type 1.5 fun maybe. It was scary and disturbing but also dreamy and captivating. I wouldn't want to do too much of this but I'm genuinely glad I did!
  • Unlike at least one of the cameramen, I didn't think I was going to die. I did think there was a high chance of lowering off a cluster of bodyweight slings and loose cams, or being benighted in a chimneying position. Incidentally my entire left side was covered in dust from the udging.
  • Mike did throw a rope down for me to pull past the gorse bush cornice. I don't think that diminishes the experience much. If he hadn't been there, we'd have just left the ab rope down that section. 
  • Whilst seconding the "crux", but alas not being filmed, Kate pulled off one of the holds and swung into space, when she swung in and grabbed another hold, that came of too, 3rd time lucky and she reattached herself. These might have been the holds I used.
  • AFTER the route, I had to get myself psyched up to then do American Excess XS 5c as planned. God knows how. AE was also pretty stimulating as can be seen on film!
  • We DID go for the curry afterwards, I think it was pretty decent, the lime pickle was extra tangy anyway.
  • Last year I tried to capitalise on this experience by climbing Gold E4 5c * HXS 5c *** at Rainbow Zawn in North Pembroke, but got shut down near the top of the first pitch after being on it for at least as long. A missing ledge might have had something to do with this. Rainbow Zawn makes The Range look like Burbage North, Gold makes TCW look like Mutiny Crack. A whole different world of horror being extremely awkward and physically hard  as well as loose sandy greasy and committing. And that was just one pitch out of three....
  • JB kindly quipped "Tempting as it must have been to make the whole film about Fiend I think you made the right decision!" . Well now that's an idea. Without being too narcissistic I have done quite a few aesthetic, inspiring, and often easily filmeable sea-cliff routes of a vaguely related ilk in recent years. Maybe I should have commissioned Cheque to follow me around and also film: Scissors on the Lleyn, Andromeda Strain at Carn Gowla, Gold attempt, Extreme Walks at Pembroke North, Call To Arms and False Gods at Sanctuary Wall, new-routing on Cardigan Bay shale.... ;)
  • There's still loads more I want to do at The Range. It's a lovely place.



Source: The Complete Works. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 23, 2018, 02:40:26 pm
I onsight built that stack with no falls! Best tick of the trip.

you took it apart before leaving, right?
Title: fiendblogShadow Of Intent.
Post by: comPiler on September 24, 2018, 01:02:11 am
Shadow Of Intent.


I  got accosted by a nice young man at Eden Edinburgh the other day who  said he'd met me at Ratho and enjoyed reading my grindr profile errr I  mean blog. I need to apologise for firstly not being very chatty (I was  mildly distracted by trying to get a fucking grip during an atypically  disappointing sesion at the usually reassuring and outright fun Eden  Rock), secondly not remembering him (people have accused me of having a  rotted brain from listening to too much gabber and death metal over the  decades - they may have a point as despite such music obviously  enhancing my sense of personal morality, my memory is shocking these  days), and thirdly for said blog being fairly mediocre this year. It is a  mild annus horribilis - although not really an anus horribilis (I'd  prefer it if more of the intestinal drama was way down there) and I have  lacked inspiration as well as subject matter. But here's a little  something from a few months back:

Well  it's actually from a couple of decades back. Early in my climbing life,  early exploration of Dumfries and Galloway sea-cliffs. D&G -  Scotland Lite, but peaceful and charming in it's own way. Same goes for  the sea-cliffs. Beautifully scenic inlets at Portobello, idyllic slabs  above a beach at Larbrax, diverse greywacke adventures at Meikle Ross,  plentiful good honest microgranite walls at Crammag and Laggantalluch.  The latter feels a bit like hidden parts of West Penwith, imagine  everything from the rock crystals to the approach slopes have been  compressed down to a quarter of the size and the caravans have  thankfully fucked off. 

I  went to Laggantalluch all those years ago, did some nice E1s, backed  off the so-called E2 5b Freewheeling, a grand slab that the Fox and I  confirmed as E3 5c *** in 2011. And I also backed off a new route at the  reasonably well established Laggantalluch Head sector. There was a  crack and a roof and a headwall and it was all more committing than I  was committed. 

Many  years later I went back again, I think with The Pylon Kunt. This may or  may not have been the visit where we developed the semi-esoteric but  rather charming Buchan West Crag, subsequently all of our routes there  were upgraded (possibly rightly, hard to tell as we had to abseil clean  and inspect - another thing that makes pre-inspection such toss as you  can't give an accurate estimate of the normal experience, albeit needs  must on a new crag), and downstarred by Stephen Reid because he was  miffed that it was the one obvious Galloway Hills crag that John Biggar  and himself hadn't hoovered up (this explanation may be speculation or  entirely accurate). Once again we had a nice time at Lagg and once  again the line got away - to the extent that I posted about it on UKC to  suggest someone did it before the imminent new guide. No-one did.

Fast-forward  to many years later again, or is it rewind to a few months ago? Either  way I went back with the Purkle who has a penchant for the area. The  weather was stunning, glorious spring sun with an even more glorious  crisp cool breeze - no nuclear death heat back then! We warmed up at  Portobello and I finally did the intimidating wall of St Elmo's Fire E3  5c *** which was bold and lovely and a good reassurance that maybe I  could potter okay with my PVIBSUDT (this was before the derived  depression though). Then we went to Lagg and this time I was going to  do that bloody route. Warmed up, did a sandbag E2, ignored the other 3  or 4 potential new lines and got on the main one, the most obvious of  the lot. 


Womble  to the roof, fiddle in good gear, lean out off a good, unavoidable jam  (well there has to be something to stop the wall rats), reach a good  crimp, tiptoe feet to hold it, match and gain sinker lip jug. Get pumped  fiddling in unnecessary back up gear, then realise the second crux is  to come. Furtle up on diminishing nubbins to get stood up and then  realise by far the best hold is at your shins. A bit of lateral thinking  leaves you hanging the footholds of the classic E1 that circumvents the  roof and allows more gear and enough relaxation to shuffle leftwards to  jugs and what would be glory except Galloway is all a bit too peaceful  for that.


Nothing  earth-shattering but I finally got it done and it's a good line and a  good route and a good useful addition to the cliff. Shadow Of Intent E3  5c **. The leaning rock strata make it look quite hard in a Gogarth Main  Cliff sort of way but it's not. So named partly because of the  aeons-old intention of doing it and partly because of one of the vast  plethora of technical melodic deathcore metal bands I am in to is Shadow  Of Intent and I was listening to them on repeat to motivate myself on  tedious auto-belay laps at Kendal Wall which may or may not have  provided the necessary stamina. 









Source: Shadow Of Intent. (http://)
Title: fiendblogCatching Up, Clawing Back.
Post by: comPiler on October 23, 2018, 01:00:06 pm
Catching Up, Clawing Back.


Apologies in advance for a crass, shallow, narcissistic number-based post. I try to allow myself only one of these lapses per year and I think this year warrants it. Apologies also for a very delayed and fairly dry blogpost. Aside from climbing I've been more inspired to make Quake maps than I have to write stuff.

Anyway, I'm belatedly celebrating the end of Sendtember (yes it actually was one this year), particularly given health contexts. Rewinding a few months ago:

23rd June - Seaside Premiere - somehow I'd dragged myself down feeling like a walking corpse. A combination of depression and another recurrent nausea bout left me the worst I'd felt for decades. In tears on Friday, driving down on Saturday full of despair, dreading the premiere as I'd be looking at the old Fiend wondering who the hell he was, in tears on Sunday morning too. Walking into Chee Dale looking at humanity from a very distant perspective.

23rd July - I have no idea what happened. It was a heatwave and I wasn't doing much.

23rd August - my birthday, I hadn't planned to celebrate but increased anti-depressants have kicked in and I'm starting to cope a lot better with my digestive issues. I cope with a Thai curry AND a typically fearsome Thai salad and go to Aberdeen on the weekend and I'm climbing well again.

23rd September - mid-way through a reassuring, life-affirming period of climbing properly and normally again and I feel like the old Fiend i.e. just me.

23rd October - I've not done much climbing this year and not done much climbing in the last couple of months when I've finally got some sanity and motivation and inspiration back. But those last couple of months look like this:

Rotpunkt:

Silk Teddies F7c *** - power endurance
Vibes Right Hand F7c *** - tension and burl
Scales Of Injustice F7b+/c ** - precarious slabbing

Ledge Shuffling:

Gotterdamerung E4 5c *- bold!
Spanked Roof Monkey E4 6a ** - easy fun jugs
Who Dares Wings It E4 5c *** - committing and good
Laughing Gnome E4 5c ** - committing and fun
Sidewinder E4 6a ** - brilliant steepness
Special Brew Direct E3 5c ** - epic in the sun
Whoremistress E4 6a *** - amazing big pitch
Prehistoric Monster E5 6a *** - wild and exciting
Necromancer E5 6a *** - world class awesome
Bob's Overhang E4 6a *** - great thugging
Polka Dot E3 5c ** - really nice gem
Piltdown Connection E3 5c ** - beautiful granite
Desert Rendezvous E3/4 5c ** - fantastic
Softly Treads The Beetle E4 6a *** - even better
Fast Reactor E3 6a ** - cool granite
Kenyan Cowboy E2 5c ** - my mate's route

First ascents:

Indoor Storm E4/5 6a/b ** - cool compression
Echo Box E3/4 5c/6a * - nice jug pulling

---

So that's quite tolerable really. Needless to say the stars are pretty important. So what enabled this?? In reverse order:

1. An incredibly SLOW but existent improvement in my digestive issues. Nowhere near healed, still on a heavily restricted diet and supplements, almost never feel 100% (I did for a few days on a recent weekend and that was quite notable). But generally less nausea bouts and very slightly milder indigestion / queasiness overall have helped me get on with things.

2. Somehow keeping fittish and strongish while I was having time out. Dragging myself to the wall while everyone else was dragging themselves to the sunbaked mountains. Hanging off bolts at Dunkeld while everyone else was hanging off beautiful sea-cliff belays. Horrible stuff but it helped me physically for when I did get back on track.

3. Increasing my dose of Citalopram from a very low to 10mg to a standardly low 20mg. The big difference that enabled me to cope. Drugs are gooood mmmmkay kids.

At the moment things are fairly stable and I'm psyched for grit and bouldering and the odd wee outcrop route and Eden Edinburgh and still trying to move away.


Source: Catching Up, Clawing Back. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Pebblespanker on October 23, 2018, 01:53:05 pm
Good to hear you are getting back out to play Fiend despite all the stressors. Anti depressants are weird but beneficial in my experience lol. I am on Fluoxetine at a low/std (??) dose and it took a while to readjust but made a massive difference to me in terms of coping with work shit/home shit/life shit. Massively stressful job, challenging home life and redundancy was my job lot to deal with  :wall:

What I did notice that whilst it helped the mental state it also appeared to reduce my 'inner fire' for training, whereas before I'd be frothing keen (read to the point of over training at 50+ ...) now I really have to push myself to get on the board :whip: Oddly it also made pulling really hard feel harder, it was if the old head was saying 'ahh fuck it lets do something easier' all the time. Net result was regular training became irregular, then zero followed by zero climbing - all due to very physical temp job shifts covering all weekends up to Xmas 2017 for months and being physically bolloxed on the non-work days. New Year and one miracle 'do you want to work for me' phone call out of the blue landed me a new job based in London (I live in Fife) but working from home on a lifetime highest salary. The new job has it's challenges (I'm an IT project manager now) and working in a different discipline but the meds definitely helped with new job anxiety/stress in a really good way.

I'm now training again, losing weight (3kg since April) and getting back to where I was 18 months ago (utter punterdom lol  :-[) - the fire is slowly returning  :dance1: - stick with it dude it will get better even if it is slowly, despite all the challenges you have your ticklist is most definitely most excellent  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on October 23, 2018, 08:13:29 pm
Thanks for your comments and positive vibes Mr Spanker. Yes I've noticed some of that side-effect - cpram can make me feel a bit wrapped in cotton wool, everything dulled down a bit - making you care less about useful stuff as well as care less about excessive worry. Funnily enough it doesn't feel quite as prominent on 20mg this time, probably because I've gone from 10 to 20 rather than 0 to 20.

Glad things have improved for you and hope they continue to do so  :punk:
Title: fiendblogMore details.
Post by: comPiler on October 31, 2018, 01:07:07 am
More details.


My climbing has improved. My blogging clearly hasn't. This one is a bit of a cheat. But might not be too horrible for people who like reading about climbs. So going back to the previous list in great detail...

Rotpunkt:

Silk Teddies F7c ***, Dunkeld
With the new cheating diversion into a hands-off rest next to Squirm Direct. Whatever. Don't care. I don't want a fucking authentic Cave Crag uber-geek "use this hold for one hand but don't you dare match it and rock rightwards off it" tick. I want a good challenge and this was definitely that (at least a grade harder than the only other 7c I've done (Another Choadside Attraction at the Tor, which took me a couple of brief sessions, mostly because it's classic British sport climbing i.e. run out with weird fixed gear, than it actually being hard, also noticably harder than other 7cs I tried in the Peaks, and a solid grade harder than Scottish 7b+s I did in a quick session each). Suffice to say it took me a few solid sessions and was pretty rewarding to go from struggling on all the moves to, well, not struggling quite that much! After the redpoint, I drove back down the track, got distracted by a rattle in the back of my car, slid off the road into a tiny steep ditch and got grounded out and had to get an emergency tow truck to drag me out. What a knobber!!

Vibes Right Hand F7c ***, Dunkeld

Burl with added burl on top! Maybe slightly harder than ST who knows, felt similar to me but probably suits me less, power-to-weight and all that. Not much to say about this one except each session burnt me out so it was all good training, and it was nice when the fearsome Lyons brought part of her pack o' hounds to the crag....



Scales Of Injustice F7b+/c **, Cambusbarron 


Tentatively technical teetering!! Now this was something a bit different. I - in atypical and quite shameful grade chasing mode - pondered on doing a third 7c this summer as a big FUCK YOU to my digestive illness. Omerta was spoilt by the completely unbalanced bloc start (would be a great move at ground level but fuck having to have a rope and belayer to work it out), Sultan was spoilt by being a miserable scrittle-crimp fest (not even regular anti-hydral can combat that), and Marlene was too similar to Silk Teddies - I wanted some variety. I think this might fit the bill, it was certainly an equal challenge, taking as many sessions, despite suiting me better, having better conditions, and not trashing me as much. It's not so much hard as very precarious and fall-offable. It's also quite addictive as it's really pretty cool, although I can imagine it would frustrate some people.

It's also grossly underrated, something I've tried to change. I first tried it 4 years ago and pulled a loose hold off the top onto Stevie's head, and never went back. This time it was more appealing, but I still put some effort into tree and branch clearance, cleaning a bit more wobble off the top, adding a second lower-off krab, building a wee patio, and generally encouraging other people to get on it. Not bad for a "whinging trad fanny" (more on that in a bit). And then I eventually did it and like all of my harder redpoints it was a skin-of-the-teeth slap with the final crux, which means despite working and optimising them, these routes are still fucking hard for me.

Interestingly for a route that's had 6 UKC efforts listed in 20 years, it was a day of actually queuing for the route when I did it. Grumpy Gordon was there, who I vaguely know by name, with Brian who was considerably more affable. Amazingly GG actually did it in the end which is a minor miracle given how shoddy his beta looked and how much of a miserable time he seemed to be having shouting his way off it - I ended up going out to near the 95 and soaking up some warmth and more positive vibes from the sun. BUT! Lo! The plot thickens, it turns out that I am the only person in the Central Belt who didn't know that Grumpy Gordon is actually the phenomenally stupid and grossly mis-guided arch-fuckwit "gurumed" off UKC. Thank fuck I didn't know that at the time as knowing the.....mentality behind the grump and trying to concentrate on a positive climbing experience would have been tortuous. Suffice to say that during the Ratho retro-bolt farce, he managed to incite this response from me, and I don't believe that there is ever a full distinction between online expression and offline personality.

After that I went into the closed quarry and belayed Smally on something which was nice, but not as nice as this stump:


Ledge Shuffling:

Gotterdamerung E4 5c *, Dunkeld
Dunkeld sport scenes turned into Dunkeld trad scenes for me, and yes after you've been working Silk Teddies, 5c yarding on jugs does seem physically very easy. On the other hand, relying on one RP during a huge, and steep run-out before the apparent rest jugs turn into all sorts of weird out-pointing angles does seem mentally very spooky. I really thought I could be in deep shit for several long seconds before fiddling on clusters of shit. I had a vague inkling I'd done something wrong so abseiled down the line and confirmed that a vague cam slot I'd dismissed in my urge to keep jug-pulling was quite reasonable and quite crucial. It felt like I'd "got away with it" and although I was happy with the climb, I was less happy with my climbing!!

Spanked Roof Monkey E4 6a **, Johnsheugh 
This day was a proper indication my mindstate was improving, a day trip to Aberdeen, followed by dropping Purkle off in Glasgow and continuing to visit family in Dumfries - despite feeling pretty sick in the evening. This was the sort of rewarding, exciting, energetic day I couldn't have face doing a few months before. OTOH SRM was the sort of route - if I'd been teleported to it - I could have still climbed a few months before, but then again all the schist redpointing made it feel even more piss, and a good grade easier than: 

Who Dares Wings It E4 5c ***, Johnsheugh

Now this was getting into more my sort of terrain. Positive but spooky face climbing with a lot of up-and-downing to commit to it. It turns out the description in the online guide is a pile of wank (rectangular slot? no, small finger pocket. Gear down and left? No, impossible to place on lead. Etc), so I ended up having to do another heart-in-mouth run out but this time it was necessary after careful consideration, rather than due to incompetence. It turns out there's two different variants: Direct to a faint groove with hard moves but with gear you can actually place (steady E4 6a) or right up the wall then back left to the groove, as per the mis-guide, with gear you can't place (hard E4 5c). Either is good though, and this felt a proper experience to me.

Laughing Gnome E4 5c **, Dunkeld 
Trad silliness! 20 minutes going back and forth from a rest ledge, 20 seconds actually doing a few steady but very committing moves, spacewalking above the pro. After I did it, I remembered I'd looked across from Gnome itself to see useful holds around the LG crux, and then completely forgotten about them by the time I got round to doing it. Good tactics! 

Sidewinder E4 6a **, Glen Lednock 
Now this was getting into more the sort of pleasure I get from climbing. I went with Lamb with the intention of doing Diamond Cutter or this route (I'd tried the phenomenal No Cruise when I had just moved to Scotland, but before I realised how stupidly fucking steep most mid-extreme trad is up here, and got beaten to a pulp by it). It turned out Diamond Cutter needed a tree cutter to make the start and subsequent belaying more feasible, so Sidewinder it was. And it turned out it was great fun. Very steep, squirmy, committing, but I just felt so good on it, I felt....proper, real. Engaging with a challenge, not so much losing myself in it, but BEING myself in it. Even better when Craig can't jam so couldn't use the rests so got a bit pulped seconding :)

Special Brew Direct E3 5c **, Glen Clova 
Indian Summer for a bit! I was keeping up the low stress, high intensity, easy logistics, hard climbing local inspiration, and although I've never been a big fan of Clova, I was a big fan of enjoying climbing again and just getting on with it. SBD follows a slim black groove so was a nice cauldron to boil my brain for a bit but I got through it okay. Even considering further routes required a long rest in the shade, until the cloud came over and I could try:

Whoremistress E4 6a ***, Glen Clova 
There was a wee concept behind this one. ALL autumn I have been foaming at the dome to get down to Gogarth and get to South Stack and do some fucking awesome fucking routes that fucking inspire the SHIT out of me. But time and distance and partners and then weather have all prevented it and I'm trying not to think about it too much as you can tell from the swearing I'm still fucking gagging for it but it's too short days and likely too cold now. 

In the meantime, Purkle bought me Grant Farquhar's The White Cliff Gogarth coffee table tribute book for my birthday which is an ace present although it didn't really calm down my frustration inspiration! In the absence of being down there, I decided to do one of Grant's local classic routes from when he was a Dundoonian (incidentally as a student a bunch of dossed at his house in Wales for a weekend, although I did fuck all climbing somehow). 

Anyway, Whoremistress was bloody great. Big, exciting, varied, interesting all the way, from the surprisingly technical start to the scary death-peg-"protected" groove teeter, to the penultimate jug-pulling, and the final very reasonable crux and steep crack romp digestif. It was so good and I was so thirsty that I celebrated with a pint of shandy (nectar of the fucking GODs now I'm off soft drinks and almost off booze), and then fish and chips in Kirrie and I slept like a zombie on Night Nurse and that was ace.

Prehistoric Monster E5 6a ***, Earnsheugh 

Okay now it gets serious. Not serious climbing, seriously challenging for me personally. Aberdeen was the place to be this autumn to escape the mixed weather in the west - as I fully and accurately predicted, the resurgence of my motivation coincided exactly (to the day, a brisk before-the-storm day in Camby) with the disappearance of the reliably dry summer. I knew full well that would happen, but I'd take feeling mentally better in shit weather than feeling mentally shit in ace weather. But there was enough aceness in the Deen so that's where I did a fair bit of climbing, including routes that have been on my wishlist for years. And now, despite everything, I felt ready for them?? Well, almost. While Adam was leading up the first intro pitch, I did have to sit for a moment and actually meditate. I'd been encouraged to do this as part of CBT to cope with the emotional response to my illness, and for all the limits and one-dimensionalness of CBT, it seemed sensible then and sensible now. So I held the ropes, shut my eyes, breathed in, breathed out, listened to the sea. I should do this more often - trad climbing is hard enough without the amount of mental clutter I can bring to it.

And then I did the route and it was bloody goey through the crux - hard to work out and fighty above, and the thoroughly awkward rest mostly helped me boil alive in my pointless vest. And Adam managed to recreate the "classic" arseshot from North East Outcrops which still makes me smile.

Necromancer E5 6a ***, Earnsheugh 
I'd abseiled down this 6 times while very carefully looking off to the side to avoid spoiling the experience, and it was almost as much of  a pleasure to abseil down a 7th and 8th time to follow up the E2s, and admire the route with relaxation and reminiscence. World class climbing with no holds to spare and a lot of go for it required. Estimating the correct crux cam placement was one of the best climbing decisions I've made! 

Doing both of these routes was hard. I was on good form, I did well, but fuck me....it felt like properly pushing it again. I didn't need to go any further than that....

Bob's Overhang E4 6a ***, Long Slough 
Fourth visit over the years to get this one I think? Visit 1 it was too intimidating, visit 2 it was a bit greasy and I downclimbed from the flake, PJ was more enthusiastic and went for it and missed the pocket. Visit 3 it was slimier than a squid's snatch. Visit 4 was finally good. Even so I had to do the obligatory downclimb just to get fully warmed up. All those years involved trying hard to train my mind to go for it above gear and that seemed to pay off - I was pretty pleased to guess the correct sequence first go out of the sea of white herrings and it was over pretty quick.

Polka Dot E3 5c **, Long Slough
This was over less quick as the smooth, slick, RP protected start crux took yet more up and downing to get accustomed to it. Long Slough Red Rocks is notoriously hard to find in condition so it was worth taking advantage of it and this turned out to be a really cool little route too with a nice steady bulge.

Piltdown Connection E3 5c **, Red Tower 

Pure pleasure, once I'd figured out which actual way to go at the crux instead of trying a slappy 6a direct past shallow RPs. Definitely the best use of this fine sheet of granite, with the positions of Neanderthal Man but less wandering, more technical, cleaner rock, etc. Lovely. I tried Waltzinblack again after this and escaped off again. Too many very slick granite slopers above shallow gear - I wanted some nice crystal crimps.

Desert Rendezvous E3/4 5c **, Spittal 
Wow this was a find. Northumberland's best sea-cliff, Pex-Upon-Tweed, developed by raiding Scots 30 years ago and lying hidden and undocumented until recently. I spotted the topo on the County Psyche farcebook page, shared it on my own page, tagged the McNair as the grade range would suit him, met Smally at Ratho and Niall had invited him and there we were, climbing middling (me) to hard (them) trad on beautiful but intimidatingly sheer wall of quarried pocketed sandstone in the most lovely location set above the sea. It all felt quite dreamlike given how the crag had just come to light, and was an ace day out. Although I didn't manage to try the 3rd and hardest E4 as it got too late as Smally had spent about an hour shaking out on a tiny pocket mid-crux on a sandbag E5 6b, grumbling about sandy holds and long reaches before eventually doing it ;).

Softly Treads The Beetle E4 6a ***, Spittal 


Desert Rendezvous was a new route by Steve Blake, Softly Treads was an old route by the original pioneers. Both were great. DR as a bit bolder with spaced gear but better shakeouts. ST had more regular pro (including obligatory twin tricams) but more continuous climbing.

Fast Reactor E3 6a **, Meackie Point 
 

It felt very weird going to the Deen so much and not hooking up with my previously regular partner in crime PJ, but he has been somewhat hampered by having an admittedly lovely daughter (who, in the words of his wife, "she has brought her A-game to being parented"). At last time and indeed tide coincided and we got a couple of days out - Cambus O May quarry to get shut down by chipped holds and morpho lanks, and Meackie Point to admire seals and do this committing wee route I'd backed off years ago. And finished with...

Kenyan Cowboy E2 5c **, Tangerine Point 
Which is PJ's own route and worth an upgrade to E2 as well as two solid stars. Although short it's a classic corner weaving through roofs, micro-space-walking at a reasonable grade despite the angle. Really very nice :)


First ascents:


And I finished off the decent autumn weather with something a bit different. A month before, abbing off a singular sapling above Sidewinder, I noticed there were a few gaps between the main lines at Lednock's High Wall. Hmmm. This seemed strange. 1 hour from Central Belt cities, south facing, 5 minute walk-in, and still new routes to be climbed?? Don't look a gift horse in the mouth, Fiend. A hurried afternoon inspecting and cleaning (and clearing the Diamond Cutter tree and nearby thorns) and a frantic week drumming up moral support for what was going to be the last good weather day for a while. Connor and Purkle were up for the task and after belaying the former on some of the lower routes, and furthering the cats cradle of abseil sapling back-ups, I managed to get two newies done. Which was, indeed, nice.

Indoor Storm E4/5 6a/b **, Glen Lednock
Named after a by DJ Pish Posh which I was listening to on my visit to clean and inspect. This route has a cool compression crux at the top above bomber gear in the break. It's really quite neat. As well as abseil inspection I had a quick top-rope play on the crux - unknown, undocumented territory and all that. Fortuitous as it didn't go by my expected sequence but by hidden slopers instead. Hard to grade but compared to a vaguely similar Bob's Overhang (hard pulls above gear), it's maybe similarly difficult but much harder to read, 6a if you're lucky but 6b otherwise. Maybe.


Echo Box E3/4 5c/6a *, Glen Lednock 
Named after DJ Brockie track, to continue the theme. A bit more minor but still a decent wee route and far more logical and appealing than the established but wandering "Perishing" that it neatly bisects. Another tricky one to grade as again the holds and gear are blind. 



It was a pretty lush evening too...

So that's me all caught up. Now it's grit I think....


Source: More details. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Franco on October 31, 2018, 06:18:15 am
Did your team think Sassenach should be E6 then? We kind of thought it was tricky moves, but with good protection. Maybe hard E5, but not really a sandbag? Would welcome any thoughts on this though, as it will inform other county grading. Opportunity Challenge still E6, or E5?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on October 31, 2018, 03:15:59 pm
Smally and McNair both thought Sassenach was hard yes. Niall inspected it, Smally flashed it, the consensus was hard moves, spaced gear, and a crux that was morpho and hard to spot without chalk. Opportunity Challenge they both onsighted which is standard business for those boys, I think they thought soft E6. Maybe everything should be split grades.
Title: fiendblogAnniversary horribilus
Post by: comPiler on November 05, 2018, 01:00:24 pm
Anniversary horribilus


It's now a year since I fell off a route, bashed my leg, contracted norovirus from A&E, and in the process of my body healing my leg as a priority, suffered chronic damage to my digestive system. One very small, very stupid mistake, not washing my hands properly after going for a piss in the A & E toilet, then munching on a bag of nuts because I was ravenous and thinking too much about my leg and not enough about hand hygiene. It still riles me to this day just how fucking small and fucking stupid that incident was. Deep breath Fiend...

And.... I still have PTSD about having the norovirus itself. Beyond horrendous. I wish the sedative they gave me for the endoscopy could have wiped out memories of that night too, although the trauma is partly due to the lasting effects.

Anyway...

I am not better, I am not fixed nor cured nor well. I am still ill a year on. But I have improved, a bit. I'd estimate I've got 50% better  compared to where I was. Say I was at 33% in the early stages, I'm maybe at 66% now. This is purely digestively, not DVTs nor mental health. Some progress, yes. But it's not that simple. A lot of that improvement is due to currently being on a heavily restricted diet and regular supplements. These were supposed to help me heal, maybe they have a bit, but mostly they have just kept the illness and symptoms at bay. I would say, without those restrictions, I've maybe healed to 45% - less than half normal. That's what I'd be like if I ate a normal diet. I.e., pretty shit still.

An equally, if not more, notable improvement is my mental ability to cope with it. Sporadic nausea bouts still have a direct and dramatic effect on my mood (one a few weeks back had me in tears a day later), the diet still has me frustrated, the semi-regular bloating and queasiness still distracts me. But - thanks mostly to DRUGS but also to some of my own hard work fighting through it - I'm not as depressed about it as before, and I can get on with being myself, most of the time. A bit like the permanent DVTs, as frustrating as they can be, I can usually accept being hampered and work around them (although this illness is far more mentally taxing than the minorly life-threatening DVTs *rolls eyes*).

So my goal for the year was to be able to eat pizza (yes, something I used to do very occasionally, as a treat, as a part of a balanced diet and active lifestyle, so fuck you). I don't really feel like that, partly being used to a shitty diet and partly just wanting to stack the odds for healing. That isn't going to happen. Which makes it an aim for next year.

More importantly for next year I aim to keep healing, climbing the fucking HELL out of the year (that I only managed for a couple of months this year), and be healed within two years. Blimey. That sounds fucking weird. I guess the fact I can write it with a minimum of teeth-grinding fury says something.... Pass the 20mg citalopram nurse.



Source: Anniversary horribilus (http://)
Title: fiendblogGritstone
Post by: comPiler on November 21, 2018, 01:02:57 am
Gritstone


Luck-based scrittle they say. I think that does gritstone climbing a great disservice. It's luck AND lank AND conditions -based scrittle, in which success is entirely dependent on those factors, irrespective of skill and strength.

I lived in Sheffield for years, partly learnt to climb on grit, did well over a thousand routes and hundreds of boulder problems (including some of my hardest of both), and always struggled. Being distinctly short and sweaty and scared isn't the ideal starting point for sliding off rounded breaks while desperately fiddling in cams and then having to commit to some out of control stretch to some distant slopers etc etc *shudder*. Actually when it works it's great but it is still bloody hard. 

Moving away from it, of course I miss the massive amounts of choice and the winter suitability that is so absent in Scotland. So I head back down, despite the 15 minutes drive from a cosy home turning into 4 hours drive and finding somewhere to sleep. Actually I've already been down 4 weekends in a row which is a new record since my northerly exile. What's made the difference this time?? Two things: Willingness to go bouldering which has alleviated the scrabbling around getting partners for two days, and Airbnb which has alleviated the tedious shite of scrabbling around for accommodation (a frustration which friends and partners on the grit doorstop rarely seem to appreciate). Hence a productive start to the winter so far.

So back to the scrittle. Since moving away I think I have improved my LUCK. Tactics and wisdom and cunning stack the odds more in my favour, and a falling-practise-derived willingness to press on past gear means I can gamble on those odds more. I'm climbing better overall, so sometimes I'm climbing better on gritstone....

However, it's luck AND lank AND conditions and while I'm a better climber, I'm heavier, relatively weaker, certainly no taller, and my skin is scarcely drier. And sometimes I forget all of that is the essence of grit and sometimes grind to a greasy, stumpy halt. Sobeit, I can grudgingly accept that it's like that and some grit simply won't suit me, plus I've got 3 tubes of anti-hydral on the go. In the meantime I have done some really fun stuff, a nice mixture of esoteric micro-routing and general boulderising, like below. I even tried some highballs as highballs instead of solos but the hold was quite slopey and I kept sliding a bit off it and it was a long move to the top etc etc....I could get into this shit tho ;)

Panorama, at Panorama Crag. I'd recced this for soloing the other year, it turns out to have a wonky landing and decent gear so well worth a lead. Very minor but nice, there's a route that traverses diagonally from right to left that's the best value on this face. Typical hidden gems that are nicely documented in the essential YMC Yorkshire Gritstone guides.

Perky at Brimham. My family once had cats called Pinks and Perks. Perks was a proper lady, very dignified and very scratchy and bitey. This problem bites a bit on minging slopers and a huge stretch for the top, very cool though. Lovely bit of Brimham too, unfortunately too grey for a sunset.

Radium Arete at Woodhouse. Replicating the guidebook photo for fun. Full disclaimer: I didn't manage to do this problem. It gets Font 6A. I did Ilkley Bar Kid 6B+ in 3 goes, Perky 6B+ in 6 goes, a 6B above Radium in 2 goes, and couldn't get near to this. HUH.

Green Wall at Woodhouse. This is an HVS 5b solo, which usually on gritstone means crux groundfall onto a rocky landing from 4-5m and clearly objectively much harder than an E2 5b slab falling 8m into space past good gear. Unusually Green Wall has a 5b crux at 2m and a 4b/c ramble to finish, hence bang on. Wonders will never cease.



The Great Santini at Dovestones. You know, the one you drive past on the A59 and never stop at and really should. I've been wanting to do this route ever since opening the section in the book, and had been twice to recce it (both times trying to do Coin For A Beggar as a solo and neither time being able to compress the missing 6 inches between me and the holds into feasibility). It had always intimidated me though - tales of quality rock and good gear stank of rats and sandbags, there must be some catch. Well it turns out there's a small catch on this move, having to use a crappy micro-intermediate and blind slap to get the crux hold, but it was still fine and a really lovely route.

Bonington's Made It at Cat Crags. What a shit and un-feline name for a really cool little route. Very short and very worth leading with decent gear below a pristine but sloping top. We put the cat amongst the doves and visited both crags on a fun day.


Some 6A I can't be bothered to find at Scout Hut. The warm-up problem that took us both half a dozen goes to work out the funky beta. Actually really fun with a proper knack.


Loogabarooga at Scout Hut. Another route I'd recced previously, another micro-route well worth leading with tricky moves and good gear all the way, another hidden gem brought sparkling into view via the YMC guides. Again really fun.

Next on the list: Eavestone, Brimham outliers, Heppy natural crags, and more...


Source: Gritstone (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 21, 2018, 12:08:14 pm
Some great pics. Confused by titles though. what is the outcrop in front of Menwith Hill?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 21, 2018, 04:45:15 pm
Cat Crags! I should have titled that one, aye.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on November 21, 2018, 05:37:41 pm
great spot for a pic. One i always intended looking at, but never did.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 21, 2018, 05:50:19 pm
It was indeed. I was chuffed to get the clouds - showers over Pateley. Cat Crags and Menwith would have looked great together from the opposite side of the A59 pass there.
Title: fiendblogBye 2018, bye elbows, hello resolutions!
Post by: comPiler on December 29, 2018, 07:01:02 pm
Bye 2018, bye elbows, hello resolutions!


Well hopefully au revoir elbows and they'll come back soon. I've currently got acute tennis elbow in both elbows (during the first year in a decade in which my golfer's elbow actually cleared up - which coincided with a reflexology session in which a "left upper limb" pressure point was particularly prominent, hmmm...). This was due to 2 days bouldering at my near max in the cold, then a day of gym with weighted pull-ups, then a day of bouldering indoors and a few sets of max hangs. I probably should have slipped a rest day in there, because after that then some sporadic cold bouldering over the next week, the elbows gave up and said "no". The physio on the other hand said "yes" - but only to VERY easy climbing, essential to keep moving and keep gently stressing them to encourage healing.

Unfortunately of course the best option for interesting easy climbing, other than easy-but-epic choss sea-cliffs, is the grit (all those slabby bloques....sigh), and no I am still not fucking living back down there despite plans evolving and taking place at a pace that would make a snail feel lazy and embarrassed. And the weather is distinctly "meh". Not biblically terrible but not reliable enough to travel and know that lots of easy choice would be in nick. So back on the resin it is, thankfully the Edens have genuinely good easy circuits that avoid the tedious jugpull trap (as does the vastly improved new TCA Maryhill, but I did all theirs in a session). Even so it's very hard to restrain myself but hopefully I'll get the balance right and be fully dysfunctional before too long.

On a lighter note, this was the last proper thing I did on those two icy days bouldering, a couple of real gems that I haven't seen in the endless videos of Malc's fucking Arete etc:



Incidentally after listening to both album, and  repeatedly on that trip, I got back, googled them, and found that they were playing along with Cryptopsy in Glasgow the next Friday! So that was ace, alas I missed most of Ingested due to making too spicy a dinner, but their last bit was great as was Aborted's set.

And that's that for now. No retrospective of 2018 as I haven't written that much and it's all kinda obvious: got ill, climbed a bit, got depressed, struggled to climb a bit, got a bit less ill and a fair bit less depressed and climbed a lot more in Autumn #coolstorybro etc.

Oh, I almost forgot, New Year's Resolutions:

1. Put a lot more effort into moving south.

2. Put a lot more effort into climbing travels.

3. Keep looking after my health and healing.

4. Reduced as much clutter as I can.

Simple but to the point.


Source: Bye 2018, bye elbows, hello resolutions! (http://)
Title: fiendblogAt last!
Post by: comPiler on March 06, 2019, 01:00:08 pm
At last!


5 years overdue I've made one of the bigger progressions in my climbing life - moving away from the wasteland that is Scotland. It was good for a while but the extreme paucity of local climbing, the unavoidable journey lengths and the minimal and often insular climbing scene all make it unsustainable in the long term - even more inhibitive than the midges and rain. To be fair, the climbing - when you eventually drag one of the 3 Scottish trad climbers who is prepared to go climbing regularly with an Englishman away from childcare duties and brave 4 hours of pootling up the A9 to take advantage of the one good weather window that decade - is truly amazing as is the scenery and solitude. I will miss those distinctly rewarding aspects along with a few good friends I have up there, the Central Belt motorway network (the singularly most first world aspect of Scotland is the willingness to actually IMPROVE road networks rather than ruin them unlike England and their """smart""" twatting jam-causing bullshit non-motorways), and Ratho and Eden Rock of course. Although we're not spoilt for walls down here.

We've moved to Manchester, home of the M60 gridlock, the M67 gridlock and of course the A57 gridlock. Maybe they could employ a Scottish Transport Minister to actually consider sorting this mess out or maybe they'll just plaster the whole fucking area with one way systems and speed cameras. It's also home to 13 guidebook's worth of day-trippable climbing (Stanage, Burbage and Beyond, Froggatt and Curbar, Over The Moors, Staffordshire, Peak Limestone North, Peak Limestone South, Yorkshire Grit 1, Yorkshire Grit 2, Yorkshire Limestone, Lancashire Rock, Cheshire Rock, Clwyd Limestone) compared to a total of one from Glasgow (half Lowland Outcrops, half Highland Outcrops South). Admittedly I did a load on the grit when I lived in Sheffield and the limestone is mostly shit, but there's still enough mileage and training options to maintain sanity. Plus North / Mid Wales in two hours and the South West arriving in the same day you depart, both significant draws. And in winter the dedicated climbers get out on the grit rather than wanking off about decaying blizzard gullies and "Are the Norries in nick yet" and other such incomprehensible BS.

Of course I can't take the slightest advantage of most of this as my elbows are still completely fucked. Tennis elbow in both of them seems to be hovering in between acute and chronic and taking advantage of the worst of both aspects - permanently sore and seemingly unresponsive to any treatment.  Climbing hard or any training are definitely out, a shite way to start the spring season. But at least being near the grit there are options to do easy pootling that is enjoyable, and of course SLABS. Thankfully I do like slabs.... Before I left the wasteland, I managed to squeeze in some very nice ones at Garheugh Port, including this highball gem which I mistakenly thought was an FA, it wasn't but I did a good job of cleaning it and tidying the base and sorting out the "experimental" grades on this slab so if you're visiting Galloway, go to it:




No more videos and photos from me for a while unless it's well esoteric, because every social media cunt and his drone saturates the web with the latest number-bagging bullshit from the grit...


Source: At last! (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Ian T on March 06, 2019, 01:09:47 pm
Thank feck, the Curator of the Museum of Scottish Climbing had moved back down south.

Now we can get the shunts and drills out again  ;)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: GazM on March 06, 2019, 01:26:31 pm
So long Fiend.  Sorry I never got to climb with you up here.  Of course, your mistake was living at the wrong end of the A9. 
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on March 06, 2019, 02:16:19 pm
 :lol:
Wasteland
Insular
Gridlock
Wanking off about decaying blizzard gullies
Social media cunt
Number-bagging bullshit

Quality writing! Do you ghost write for Caff?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 06, 2019, 08:24:11 pm
Actually I will miss catching up randomly with you and Tess! Message me when you're rained off everywhere except Yorkshire limestone and we can have a good grumble about how shit Malham is compared to Goat / Reiff / Maree etc.

GazM, aye yes it would have been nice. I have an eye on and respect for your developments and explorations up there.

Pete, I might be a bit ranty, occasionally.....
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kingholmesy on March 06, 2019, 08:47:53 pm
That slab looks good - and a classic rant too.  :)

Manchester is a great place to be based as a climber. Hope you enjoy it.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: tomtom on March 06, 2019, 09:04:12 pm
Manchester Ontario? 😃
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 07, 2019, 12:53:49 pm
Where in the MCR fiend?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Will Hunt on March 07, 2019, 01:18:37 pm
Just to recap, how many years exaclty did it take you to figure out that it rained a lot in Scotland, Fiend?

I have a mate who moved to Fort William after uni, thinking it would be a mecca of climbers who'd all be keen to get out a lot. He moved back to North Wales PDQ.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: cheque on March 07, 2019, 01:46:04 pm
I for one eagerly anticipate the inevitable “Manchester climbers are backward inbred headpointing choads who’d rather climb inane polished roadside bollox than make the drive up to find new routes in fridgeheap quarry, Bacup or the short 90 minute march over untracked moorland to hold down my skyhooks on the first genuine repeat of Groundfall Special at Upper Scrittling Stones” post.  ;)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on March 07, 2019, 02:22:12 pm
 :lol:

I predict not seeing Fiend more down LPT this year.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on March 07, 2019, 04:26:41 pm
I for one eagerly anticipate the inevitable “Manchester climbers are backward inbred headpointing choads who’d rather climb inane polished roadside bollox than make the drive up to find new routes in fridgeheap quarry, Bacup or the short 90 minute march over untracked moorland to hold down my skyhooks on the first genuine repeat of Groundfall Special at Upper Scrittling Stones” post.  ;)

And complaining about how fucking crowded everywhere is.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: rosmat on March 07, 2019, 08:58:52 pm
Camo vests in Scotland are back in stock!!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 07, 2019, 10:04:22 pm
I for one eagerly anticipate the inevitable “Manchester climbers are backward inbred headpointing choads who’d rather climb inane polished roadside bollox than make the drive up to find new routes in fridgeheap quarry, Bacup or the short 90 minute march over untracked moorland to hold down my skyhooks on the first genuine repeat of Groundfall Special at Upper Scrittling Stones” post.  ;)

Bollox, rumbled again!

Will: about a month? I moved up in Autumn and in November it rained continuously for 11 days.

Rosmat: LOL

Pete: You won't see me there with fucked elbows alas :( That was one of the many appeals, being able to get to North Wales limestone for training.

JB: South East. Quite close to UKB's current chief philosopher, apparently.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on March 08, 2019, 02:58:27 am
So much great quality and inspirational climbing on your blog Fiend! :2thumbsup:

Please keep it coming - elbows permitting.

It's so much better and easier to relate to than the usual insta-fare.

Hopefully the weather will clear up for the weekend.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: user deactivated on March 08, 2019, 09:31:40 am
Hey Fiend, can you link me to the big numbers insta spray? I’m curious. So disconnected from the yoot man. It suddenly brought to my attention how irrelevant this forum must feel to 90% of up and coming climbers
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 08, 2019, 09:59:47 am
God no, I don't actually watch the stuff! It's like the Daily Mail, just knowing it exists or catching a glimpse out of the corner of your eye is bad enough.
Title: fiendblogWe're Only Here For The Bang
Post by: comPiler on March 18, 2019, 01:01:17 am
We're Only Here For The Bang


6pm, I take a step... It's the same step I've taken many times in the last half an hour, but this time it's followed by a few more during the next minute. Careful, tip-toeing steps, smear to smear. And then it's over - I'm at the break, onto easy ground, at the top. An experience that has escalated from looking nervously from either side and tentatively brushing and playing on the easy start, to the eventual commitment and faith in friction of a grit slab. Bloody marvellous. 

4am, 10 hour laters, I take a step... It's the same step I've taken many times in the last minute, and this time it's followed by a few more during the same second. Frantic, rhythmic steps, bounce to bounce. And then it's over - the Horrorist's set has wrapped up and it's onto another DJ. An experience that has escalated from classic electro of One Night In New York and techno of Flesh Is The Fever to full on Industrial Strength 220bpm gabber assault. Bloody marvellous.

I went to Rivelin and I went to Bangface. One of them had frantic motion and constant noise and great intense experiences, and so did Bangface. Swirling trees provided enough shelter from the howling gale at Rivelin, and made for great conditions. A chance encounter with Mike whom I'd climbed with once in Wales...
...on an equally blowy day at Bird Rock, where having done the excellent Diamond Eliminate an attempt at a retrieval abseil turned into a 20 minute clusterfuck of knotted ropes, turned a recceing visit into some fun easy highballing and a nice little solo to finish after he'd disappeared.

And thence it was on to Bangface which needs little explanation, suffice to say it's by far the best dance music experience in the UK and just like Rivelin, being only an hour from Chez Fiend is another great boon to my relocation. Only Friday's bang this time but it went a bit like this:


Dead Man's Chest - nu skool old skool jungle techno
A surprising set from Eveson's alias. I thought he'd be pure jungle but this was an interesting blend of sort of old skool rave jungle techno in a modern style - kick and breakbeats and spacey atmospheres - before evolving into jungle. Pretty cool!

Monster X - industrial analogue techno glitchstep
A new act to me, ex-grindpunk dude turns to electronic music and maintains the same visceral intensity. Mashed up and hard hitting and maintained my interest for sure.

Little Big - rave donk pop hip-hop
Caught the end of their set. Very much the Russian Die Antwoord as they've been coined. Fun for a few mins. Alas the very cute midget from their videos doesn't perform with them any more.

Otto Von Schirach - bollox bassline
A couple of minutes of this tedious poncy bellend before I legged it.

Chopstick Dubplate - ragga jungle
I gotta say I might be liking jungle more than drum'n'bass at the moment. All about the breakbeats! This was kinda predictable jungle style but great fun. Also a nice OTT sped-up finish before...

Limewax - crossbreed hardcore drum'n'bass
On top of my ticklist for the night, and he was pretty cool. Objectively a great Bangface set mixing in all sorts of hard dnb and hardcore and even elegantly finishing with dark techno before The Horrorist. Personally I wanted more of a classic Limewax skullstep onslaught, and some of that style he played was fucking brilliant....I might have broken myself with a full set of that tho, maybe the variety is for the best!

Stazma The Junglechrist - breakcore
Self indulgent mashed up breakbeat noodling - the jungle equivalent of a set full of guitar solos. Too nonsensical for me but the crowd liked it.

Eprom - bass / dubstep
A few mins chilling out... Kinda cool sound, lots of super deep warm bass and minimal beats, wouldn't have got me dancing much but nice to listen to.

The Horrorist - industrial techno / gabber
A bit of an icon in the hardcore / techno scene for his pounding beats and militant MC shouting, definitely had to be seen. The harder last half of his set was the highlight of the night for me :).

Hellfish - gabber
A few mins recovering... classic Hellfish gabber, probably the hardest set in the main rooms. I dunno his style is good but not always my favourite and I needed to recover a bit.

[KRTM] - militant hard techno
Surprising as I thought he was normal gabber, but catching a bit of his set I was impressed, seriously stompy techno with some good atmospheres.

Dr Bastardo - crossbreed breakcore
Same record label and same pace as Stazma The Jungleponce but vastly better with a danceable flow and proper hardcore intensity.

The Outside Agency - gabber / crossbreed
Also high on the ticklist, but although good was a bit disappointing. Firstly having caught TOA for a more varied industrial hardcore set in Glasgow years ago, this wasn't quite as interesting. Secondly, the sound in the main room was a bit low compared to the other rooms (or Hellfish's set) and thus didn't quite have the energy to compensate for my lack thereof. Still a great night overall!

Saturday was a rest day...



Source: We're Only Here For The Bang (http://)
Title: fiendblogInstawhat?
Post by: comPiler on March 28, 2019, 01:00:05 pm
Instawhat?


Okay I lied. I'm as much of a social media slag as the rest of you and the weather and company have been good enough to get out and get gritting on all sorts of places. Including Stanage - but enough of that toss...how about you fuckers ID the first two routes instead:






Oh and the boring Stanage toss I promised....




After this I drive back home which now looks like this:


Not bad.


Source: Instawhat? (http://)
Title: fiendblogGritxit.
Post by: comPiler on April 24, 2019, 07:00:13 pm
Gritxit.


It came and it went, the natural grit season is over apart from maybe a few lucky days and a few north-facing crags. Given I moved down during the previous heatwave, getting a good few weeks of good conditions before the Easter meltdown was quite a bonus. Even more so, I'd only intended to do easy mileage due to my elbows and near total lack of strength and fitness, but as previously mentioned the only skills needed for grit are dry skin, luck, and a massive reach. So while I'll never have the latter, I managed to outwit the former mostly by sunbathing through afternoons out and climbing at dusk. And the luck, I guess I made a bit for myself by climbing routes that really inspired me.

A few samples:

Something at Hen Cloud in the baking heat. Mostly done for the photo which worked well. No gear and scrittly slopers. Alas too hot for any HC classics.

Foord's Folly at Ramshaw. This mess was all from the easy top crack, which I did in the "only bold E1 to solo" style, which was quite terrifying compared to the phenomenally easy lead option of spending 5 seconds slamming in the bloody obvious red camalot from the post crux jug and romping to the top. Instead I ground my hands into the crack to avoid the ground impacting with my body, and was hyperventilating so much my chest was aching for over an hour. This may have been something to do with finally getting through the crux start after dozens of attempts, this """6a""" being by far the hardest sequence I've ever done on anything with a route grade. Solid V5 6b. Good experience though. Unfortunately I left my bouldering brush beneath Old Fogey while recceing and scrubbing the neglected start....



The Egg at Bamford, one of my main inspirations this season in typical "Fiend gets unduly excited about a one star route lurking on the fringes of normality" vein. I went once with Ogs to recce the crag and we both got very psyched by this beautiful scoop, but neither of us was roped climbing. I went back with The Discoverer Of Planets and got spooked backing off a bad E3 warm-up and then got inspired again by the Egg just as the sun was going down which curtailed my plan of spending ages fiddling in the promised RPs in the seam, and finally back with Cragrat Rich when once again I had to wait for dusk but left enough time to discover that contrary to the guide there is only one hidden RP and the rest is sliders, flared cams, and hidden good cams out right, and the moves and overall experience are bloody great.

The end of the grit season. Mint connies at Ramshaw in a raking Easterly, but guaranteed bollox almost everywhere else. Old Fogey had only vaguely been in my sights, but I had to go back and retrieve my brush, so kinda had to do the route at the same time. Ogs advice: "You should leave your brush beneath more routes then". OF definitely deserves it's classic status, a finely sculpted buttress and a fine route with excellent "resting indefinitely while getting continually more scared" potential on the foothold just below me, and [spoiler] pushing a cam into the break before grappling with it's unnerving slopiness is highly recommended [/spoiler].

So that's that. I scrabbled around over Easter, maximising traffic jams, minimising good conditions, and mostly avoiding any good climbing, and I'm ready for some actual training before the main away game trad season.



Source: Gritxit. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Steve R on April 24, 2019, 11:17:40 pm
Nice, always liked the look of the egg
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: andy popp on April 25, 2019, 01:48:29 am
I think that's a great shot of Old Fogey.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 25, 2019, 06:14:38 am
Thanks for the inspiration as always Fiend.  :2thumbsup:

A few things I'll be keen to get on there myself.

Sounds as though the elbows are doing OK too. Got to be good news.

There's plenty of grit to be getting to grips with until June at least!

Dave.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 26, 2019, 10:19:42 pm
Thanks guys  :icon_beerchug:
Title: fiendblogBefontled.
Post by: comPiler on April 28, 2019, 01:00:57 pm
Befontled.


A last minute trip joining a bunch of middle-aged ladies including Phil Murray, who were already out there with a spacious gite and hired pads. The weather was amazing, my climbing less so. I tried hard but a winter off any form of training proved to be fairly debilitating for power-to-weight ratio. My tactics were also a bit mixed, not resting my skin for 3 full days before going, and sometimes throwing myself at easy problems in the baking middle of the day instead of fully waiting for the contrastingly cool and lovely evenings. 

In the end I managed to have fun because Font is brilliant and easy Font is just as brilliant....


....but overall the highlights of the trip were:

1. Watching a very fluffy dog roll repeatedly and giddily through leaf piles until it was a very happy leaf pile itself.

2. Introducing Williams to a variety of exciting music genres including 250bpm gabber driving to the crag.... "Utterly appalling and beyond comprehension."

3. Moutarde avec vanille du Madagascar, who would have thought it, this is delicious.

Hmmm.

So.

The whole thing got me pondering that given a reasonable track record in Font previously (often in less crisp weather)...

Calins Du Kim 2nd go
Bizarre Bizarre 2nd go
L'Egoiste 3rd go after driving overnight
Duroxamine 2nd go
L'Oblique in 30 mins
El Poussif in an hour with a golfer's elbow

...I'm wondering why it's been so much of a struggle since those halycon days. Well those days were a decade ago and it turns out that technique is no substitute for being having functioning digestion, functioning legs, and thus being light (and uninjured). 

Further, aside from my slightly shoddy tactics, previous trips have been strategically enhanced by joining groups of experienced mates / send train bellends who have been revising 6+7 or whatever it is for their essential number-bagging ticks and thus actually know which 7As are approximately 7A and thus vastly easier than all the 5C blue slabs I was wasting time and skin on (incidentally I do remember failing to work a red 6B at Rocher Canon for a full hour before very narrowly failing to flash Calins Du Kim 7A). Knowledge is no substitute for power either but it does help a bit...

Still, this hasn't put me off. I'm already thinking about a proper winter trip back after hopefully rectifying most of the above issues (the ones I can rectify without surgical intervention, that is). 


Source: Befontled. (http://)
Title: fiendblogUnsuitable Genetic Material.
Post by: comPiler on May 03, 2019, 07:00:16 pm
Unsuitable Genetic Material.


Sometimes I wonder why the hell I chose climbing. Short, sweaty, fatomorph with a head full of bullshit from day one - bullshit that manifests itself not in a dancing-with-death willingness to run it out miles above filed down RPs in a loose flake, but in inhibitions, handbrakes, self-sabotage. Why would such a person choose an activity that instead suits the polar opposite: lithe, lean, leathery people with a light spirit (bastards). I should stick to deadlifting and making Quake levels.

Then I remember I didn't choose climbing, it chose me. It came up, out of nowhere, while I was innocently painting Orks and mentally warming myself up for getting into computer gaming (here's a pro-tip for you guys: lead figure painting, regardless of it's other merits, is a clearly terrible basis / background to start rock-climbing from, compared to say swimming, running, cycling, gymnastics, martial arts, yoga or indeed any other activity whatsoever). It came up, when I was still even terrified of 8m abseils (the first time I tried at school, I was so scared I burst into tears), insidiously whispered "Why don't you try going up instead of down", and in a state of confused late pubescent vulnerability I listened and took the drug it was peddling and I was hooked.

Fast-forward a couple of decades and I'm still hooked which explains why I'm hanging off an awkward break sandwiched between a rounded scoop and a rounded arete wondering how I'm so sweaty and so stressed and how the hell can I deal with this. It doesn't explain how some time later I'm hanging off the rope and bomber protection right next to one obvious, if slopey, move to easier ground, having got partway through that move before simply giving in to the mental and physical discomfort and doubt.

No....the bullshit in the first paragraph explains that. The genetic make-up of my psychology - it's been there since birth (along with the sweat glands and ticking timebomb of an aplaisic IVC), nature not nurture, my parents didn't know what the hell to do with me, sometimes neither do I. I certainly didn't at that moment.  The frustration of making the same mistakes after those decades, the same inhibition, the same handbrake, the same self-sabotage that left me disgusted rather than exhilerated - why would any mind choose that course of action?? Because it's weak and flawed and gives in and takes the "easiest" course of action to "escape" the discomfort in that second, rather than striving to overcome the discomfort.

Later on, it's all a bit clearer if still equally unpalatable, hence writing this, hence trying to remind myself to keep learning the lessons I've been trying to for decades. Some of these lessons are general, some a bit more specific. In the problem - question - opportunity methodology of The Rock Warrior's Way which I've dug out to revisit:

Problem - I was scared of falling or committing to a situation where I might fall.
Question - Why is that this case when I've tackled that before?? Because I haven't been training overall and thus haven't been doing falling practise (maybe 10% of normal this winter).
Opportunity - Remember that falling practise, like any training, must be maintained to be effective (I'm physically weak due to lack of training, so clearly I can be mentally weak due to lack of training). Get back to regular falling practise indoors, and maybe outdoors.

P - I was additionally scared of getting to the next break as the guidebook had mentioned "protection does not inspire confidence" about the section. This was completely and utterly false as the protection next to me and at the break was clearly good.
Q - What can I do to deal with off-putting information or mis-information??
O - Firstly refer to falling practise!! A fall or even necessary jump from the next break would have been fine - as long as I wasn't overwhelmed by phantom fear. Falling practise would have lead to a clearer assessment of "I can commit, because I can safely fall / jump if it's an unsuitable situation" (this has worked in the past).
Secondly, always factor in my own judgement. I could both inspect the route from the side and assess the possible situation, and also know I have good gear placing skills, thus the off-putting falsehood might not be applicable.
Thirdly, take advantage of additional clarification - Dan had abbed down and cleaned this route (as had I for his route). While I wouldn't want any extra information to spoil the experience, confirmation of the guidebook accuracy would seems sensible: "Is the description and line about right??" ... "Pretty much except you probably gain the scoop from the right and the gear situation seems fine" .

P - I was sweating a lot and didn't think I could hold the crux sloper, and gave in to the doubt instead of giving it a try.
Q - Why did I do that psychologically? And could I have changed anything physically / logistically?
O - Psychologically it was once again a fear of falling - both falling per se, and falling unexpectedly off a move. Again, falling practise. But also, falling practise while attempting harder moves - and this can be even more useful outdoors, on redpointing, where I can re-learn to trust myself on harder moves while risking the fall coming off them.
Logistically, I need to remember to take advantage of any opportunity to alleviate the situation. I could have slapped my hand on my trousers or chalked either hand (I was sweaty and stressed more than pumped) or even reserved to a decent rest. I didn't - so I need to practise getting things logistically optimal.

P - I was not focused enough on success / progress as, despite contriving a decent rest, I had not recovered enough from prior stress starting the route (and thinking I had no chance of doing it)
Q - Why did I not recover my focus when I was recovering physically? Mostly because I wasn't trying to.
O - Take the time to acknowledge the changing situation while I'm recovering. Feel my body recovering  and use the consciousness of that to fuel a mental change: "I had no chance of doing it before when I was too pumped and stressed. Now I'm resting, how has that chance changed??"

In summation, I need to use indoors and outdoor sport for falling practise and trust-training, and any stressful lead as an opportunity to practise better logistics and a more aware and productive response to the stress.

To anyone who has read this far, I'm sorry, refund applications will be accepted to the usual address. Conversely, I've wrote this far so maybe something useful will come out of it...


Source: Unsuitable Genetic Material. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: user deactivated on May 03, 2019, 08:37:23 pm
Nice Blog FienDster.

It took ‘Me nearly thirty yeArs to come to a conClusion that can be sUmmed up iN This paragraph

‘There are some things in life that it is worth taking seriously, the rest is just a joke’

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Wood FT on May 04, 2019, 09:38:14 am
I used to love quake, what a throwback
Title: fiendblogSpanner In The Works
Post by: comPiler on May 23, 2019, 07:00:26 pm
Spanner In The Works


When is a trad climb not a trad climb?


....when it was protected by a thin, drooping, tied off spanner, and is now protected by an inch-thick, drilled and vertically cemented spanner in the same place. Thus turning an iffy situation into designer danger. I'd backed off Spanner Wall 13 years ago, a combination of approaching from the left (which made the crux a groundfall if the then-dubious spanner spung) and a warmish day. This time I approached from the now described right hand crack, placed the side-runners as high as I could without moving an inch off the line, and then wombled out to discover you could bivvy off the spanner. I enjoyed it anyway, particularly calming down and cooling down before the crux reachover. Has something been lost by this incarnation of the fixed spanner, though??

A nice bit of gay-legging on an underrated gem at the Pits.

I also enjoyed this other route - quite good value for ledge-shuffling! This day started grimly as early queasiness had me curled into a ball waiting for the prochlorperazine to kick in, but when it did I felt okay for an entirely afternoon, and although I was in ultimate bumbling mode, it was pleasant mileage.


When is a sport climb not a sport climb?

Delicious and nutritious, and a daintily smaller portion for the sportclimbing anorexophile. Best seasoned with a portion of battery acid or preferably arsenic for such climbers who then slag off a specific person's weight / appearance as part of a serious debate, and think they can get away with apologising because "they didn't know the person had medical issues" and being "sorry for being childish", instead of apologising for being cruel, overly-personal, and utterly fucking obnoxious. NB the target was not me in this case.

....when it was protected by this, until good old Seb took a spanner to it to tidy up the crag a bit. No doubt back in the day this was lined up along with rusty pegs, frayed tat, and coathanger hangers for that quintessential Great British Sport Climbing experience. The ceaseless tide of consumerist climbing has had a frothy silver lining in that this is now protected by nice shiny screw-in ring-bolts. This was down at Moat, the hip new place to be dangling off a bolt and queuing for routes. To be fair it is lovely down there, the friendly cat loitering around cragx, the lurking fishes, the mum duck and 3 ducklings paddling by, a swan coming into land like a Hercules transporter crashing in the river, flocks of sheep moseying on down to the far bank. At some point I'll actually be able to start my own redpointing there.


When is a climber not a climber?


On the outside, I look like Fiend. Sometimes, on the inside, I feel like this.

....when he's got more fucking spanners in the works than a ramraid on Halfords tool department. Since last update's debacle, the status quo of "bad head, improving elbows" crystallised into a nice clear plan: More falling practise to fix the former, more brutal limestone to take advantage of the latter, both of which to gain fitness and confidence to get out there and tackle The greater Range and suchlike.

Instead it's panned out like this: Digestive relapse cancelling some days and making others unreliable, regular partners not interested in the lime, Purkle not able to belay me on falling practise, joining in the exclusive and elitist Peak Sport Climbing FB page to find 90% of people only want to go to the Tor, getting to the lovely Moat Buttress twice with some of the other 10% but only in teams of 3 so getting almost nothing done, getting out on a mileage day with Purkle to find the easier mileage was shit and the harder inspiration was unbelayable, getting back to that harder inspiration that I've wanted to for 13 fucking years and feeling too emotionally drained to commit to the moves before watching (well, half-watching) my climbing partner "just go up to feel what those holds were like, just out of interest" and piss all over it like it was a trivial warm-up, finally getting out on a mutually acceptable day with Purkle, ending up at Harpur with a million mileage options and perfect weather and walking away due to migraine. Etc.

The digestive relapse, after steady improvement over the winter and a notably "clear" March has been demoralising. Being mildly but chronically ill with something that very directly affects my moods, preys on my personal squeamishness, is unpredictable and has no obvious cause for reappearing....is grim. On the rare days where I haven't had some issue and felt digestively normal, the clarity and freedom of my mindstate has been utterly obvious, and highlights how much this affects me. To try to deal with this, I've contacted a local nutritionist AND naturopathic doctor for consultations.

In the meantime, I'm trying to do what worked for me last summer: high intensity, relatively high effectiveness (compared to Easy Trad that makes me weak, if very happy), low stress, low logistical committment sport-or-similar stuff. Looking through the haze onto the positive side of things, at least I am in an infinitely better location to make the most of that this year...


Source: Spanner In The Works (http://)
Title: fiendblogCraig Galch
Post by: comPiler on July 09, 2019, 07:00:32 pm
Craig Galch


A little Rhinnogs outlier update for you...

Craig Galch 
(pp 359 of Meirionydd guide)
A crag with a lot going for it on paper: open, sunny, quick drying, with a nice crag base, impressive rock architecture and a exceptional view over the estuary right down to Harlech Castle. But... There's not many climbs, the rock is a variable flakey quartzite sort that might preclude further development, and the approach is potentially arduous. Expect a combination of Rhinnogs atmosphere and mini-Gogarth/Lleyn climbing.
Approach:
Cross the bridge from Penrhyn, turn left on the A496 and park carefully at the second entrance on the right with a rusty iron gate. Follow this rough track through the woods as it steeply zig-zags up the the lone cottage (friendly residents if in-situ). The crag is obvious due North, the approach less so. Go through the two cottage gates, turn left, and follow a grassy "peninsula" into the boggy-looking plain, aiming towards the crag. At the ferny left end of the peninsula, cut across the bog towards a cluster of small trees to pick up a faint path through the opposite ferns. Follow this over a low wall then onto a heathery ridge towards the crag. Go over a notch in a wall and cross a small boggy valley, then follow the hillside on the left, below an obvious buttress (unclimbed crack and arete, flakey rock) and contour around to the main crag.
0.8 miles, 25 mins, 150m alt gain, good track then some tussocks and ferns, potential bog.

Left Buttress
Bat Capers E3 5c 15m
Now defunct due to hanging death fang at final roof.
Bat Attack E3 5c 15m
Now defunct due to obvious rock fall at final roof.

Main Crag
Large and full of all sorts of weird angles.
Descent: Scramble to the top and descend easy gullies / slopes to the right (facing in).


First The Worst E4 5c 25m
Line is not obvious. It appears to be a thin flake in the sidewall of the corner left of FRZ??
Frank Zappa RIP E3 5c *** 25m
The giant central alcove provides an excellent route with some creative contortions.
1. 5c 17m Ascend easy rubble to the alcove, then bridge up the corner past a bulge to some respite at the roof. Perform a counter-intuitive insertion into the hanging slot out left and pop out to a fine belay to witness the second's shenanigans.
2. 5b 8m Tiptoe rightwards along the hanging slab to an exposed au cheval position and better gear on the arete, then crank straight up to finish. Spike belay well back.
(Down to E3 5c as it is indeed shockingly easy)
Kneebar of Eternal Justic E5/6 6a ** 25m
Line makes sense according to description, joining SE briefly at the ledge and good flake before a direct finish.
Subservient Elephant E1 5b ** 25m
A fine sea-cliff adventure weaving up the sidewall to gain the same exciting FZR finish. Good positions and excellent rope-drag potential. Start just right of FZR and climb the bulging groove above an inconvenient hawthorn to gain a break/ledge at 7m leading left. Follow this to a good flake and swing up and left to the FZR shelf (possible belay). Take a deep breath and teeter out right to finish up the arete, as for FZR.
(Down to two stars as although the positions and finish are fine, the rock is a bit crude and climbing disjointed)
Fearsome Worrier E1 5b ** 25m
Line is not obvious. It appears to go direct from SE's left to the roof, move right and maybe tackle the incredibly obvious but unmentioned groove above??

 Subservient Elephant
Subservient Elephant (also the finish of FRZ)


Source: Craig Galch (http://)
Title: fiendblogThe Novelty Wears Off
Post by: comPiler on July 15, 2019, 01:00:19 pm
The Novelty Wears Off


I make that 24 days now...
  1. Min Pistyll & Llechau Mawr with Helen
  2. Y Grisau with Magpie
  3. Craig Y Merched with Coel
  4. Y Foel Penolau with Emma
  5. Ffridd & Moelfre with Emma
  6. Col Crag with Tezza T and Coel
  7. Ramp Crags & Foel Wen with Coel
  8. Graig Isa with Pylon Kunt
  9. Foel Wen & Colonel Jones Wall with PK, Stannerz and Jerry
  10. Foel Wen with PK
  11. Y Grisau & Llechau Mawr with PK and PeteJH
  12. Father's Day Crag with PK and TT
  13. Crawcelt on my own
  14. Clip with Smelly Fox
  15. Craig Bodlyn on my own
  16. Craig Swn Y Nant with PK
  17. Carreg Fawr with PK and TT (who got us hopelessly lost)
  18. Llawlech with PK, Stannerz and TT
  19. Ysgor Y Gwn with TT
  20. Two Tower area with TT, PK, and Stannerz
  21. Craig Bodlyn with PK
  22. Bwchan Woodland Crag with PK and TT
  23. Craig Galch with Coel
  24. Carreg Y Saeth with Coel and Purkle
Maybe one can have too much of a good thing?? Even when it looks this good...


I was pleasantly accosted in the Ynys Etws CC hut the other week by various people who either knew me as "that Fiend guy off UKC" (no no, I'm his twin brother and not nearly as much of a complete arsehole) or had actually read this blog or both. Which was nice - good chat! During the course of the conversation on ethics, exploration, and everything, the sentence cropped up "no offence but I'm not sure I'd entirely trust your word on particular routes....". Honestly. Really! I was mortified. As if my route / crag judgement isn't entirely objective and scientifically accurate??

After all, what clearer indication of a climber's sanity and judgement than spending 24 days total climbing in The Rhinnogs, 22 of which were after extensive DVTs and most of which were while being based in Scotland?? Swerving past the reliable accessible honeypots of the Pass and Tremadog, dragging friend and foe through boulders and bilberries for the promise of some 10m hollow-starred hidden gem that Martin bloody Crocker soloed in the rain after shunting and then completely misgraded without the slightest concern for what it would actually be like for the mid-grade leader?? Exemplary evidence of a balanced perspective, surely...

In my actual defence, I do know when esoteric is esoteric, and it sometimes looks like this...


But the Rhinnog novelty might be wearing off. It was cool to explore there yet again, stumbling through heather, downgrading previously unrepeated Leo Houlding routes, etc. But the crags were a bit uncouth compared to some of the genuine gems I'd visited previously, and the feel of the rock and climbing was a bit less exciting. This may or may not have something to do with Carreg Y Saeth (above) having the worst crag base I've ever been to in those hills, and one of the worst sandbags - on the apparently solid-starred Koh-I-Noor, which must have been "confirmed" by someone either 6'6" or who thinks that Font 6B bloc is a standard finish to an E3. It also may have something to do with running out of appealing places to explore. Looking forward, Mur Y Tonnau, Y Clawydd and Craig Morwynion look amazing on paper but their Northerly aspect guarantees lichen, a plan to downgrade all of Williams & Kerr's 5m HVS at Cefn Cam has already be done by Tezza T who might be putting them in his bouldering guide, and errr, that's it?? I might be tempted by a return to the genuinely excellent Y Foel Penolau and maybe a solo recce along the ridge near Clip... Maybe TT will reveal some reliable gems. Maybe PK will persuade me to some wire brush nu-routing after he's had a good session belaying me on the Lleyn.

But maybe it's time to head back to somewhere legitimately great. Like The Range, of course...


Source: The Novelty Wears Off (http://)
Title: Re: fiendblogThe Novelty Wears Off
Post by: kingholmesy on July 15, 2019, 10:26:20 pm
The Novelty Wears Off

 During the course of the conversation on ethics, exploration, and everything, the sentence cropped up <i>"no offence but I'm not sure I'd entirely trust your word on particular routes....".</i> Honestly. Really! I was mortified. As if my route / crag judgement isn't entirely objective and scientifically accurate??


 :lol: While we're on the topic, was it you that amended the UKC description of Demolition to "a fine bold E5 onsight rather than a miserable no-star top-rope exercise"?
Title: Re: fiendblogThe Novelty Wears Off
Post by: kingholmesy on July 15, 2019, 10:33:25 pm
The Novelty Wears Off

Swerving past the reliable accessible honeypots of the Pass and Tremadog, dragging friend and foe through boulders and bilberries for the promise of some 10m hollow-starred hidden gem that Martin bloody Crocker soloed in the rain after shunting and then completely misgraded without the slightest concern for what it would actually be like for the mid-grade leader??


I've not done many of his routes apart from a couple in north Devon & Cornwall, but have come to get the impression that Crocker was (is?) a beast and that I should treat the grading on his routes accordingly.  Is this a common experience?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: cheque on July 16, 2019, 08:15:22 am
You’d think you’d have learnt to spell Rhinog properly after 24 visits.  ;)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 16, 2019, 10:54:14 am
BOLLOX!! You're right.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 16, 2019, 11:53:35 am
Holmsey - I might have submitted that irrefutably accurate description. But the moderator had to approve it too...

Crocker used to be a bit of a hero of mine for his exploration and productivity. The more I read into it and read between the lines, the more I realise that Crocker is a very specific character - let's a say a Gibson-style obsessive but actually doing good quality routes. Crocker does what Crocker wants, sometimes that coincides with producing great routes for others to repeat, sometimes it produces stuff that is....somewhat less feasible. His Rhinnog output is very much in that line, lots of stuff done for getting first ascents that suited him at the time, which often provide a quite different experience on repeating (often good and sometimes easier, sometimes not). Another example is his exhortation that fixed gear has been only used as a last resort there - but he's littered The Silver Screen at Bodlyn with multiple pegs on all his E6s, at the same time filling the area with E2-5 solos that are comfortable for him but could have been much better leads with a peg.... He is very definitely a beast though.
Title: Re: fiendblogThe Novelty Wears Off
Post by: Danny on July 16, 2019, 01:18:47 pm
The Novelty Wears Off

 During the course of the conversation on ethics, exploration, and everything, the sentence cropped up <i>"no offence but I'm not sure I'd entirely trust your word on particular routes....".</i> Honestly. Really! I was mortified. As if my route / crag judgement isn't entirely objective and scientifically accurate??


 :lol: While we're on the topic, was it you that amended the UKC description of Demolition to "a fine bold E5 onsight rather than a miserable no-star top-rope exercise"?


It's only E5 if you don't fall off, if kingholmesy's experience is anything to go by.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kingholmesy on July 16, 2019, 02:06:58 pm

Holmsey - I might have submitted that irrefutably accurate description. But the moderator had to approve it too...


As Danny alludes to, I did have a particular motive in asking.  Having fallen off my onsight attempt earlier this year and broken my arm, I reckon E6 is fair.  Not that I don't accept full responsibility for my own actions of course!   :)

I know you onsighted Demolition (and I know others who have too), but reckon you must have been going better at the time than you realised, cos I think it was the same trip that you onsighted Andromeda Strain (given E5, 5c) and amended the logbook description to say that the individual pitches are only E3 and E4 - I am now taking that with a pinch of salt before attempting it!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 16, 2019, 08:01:29 pm
Great effort going for the proper way on Demolition and I'm sorry you hurt yourself on it, even if that's part of the game of course. I still don't really know about grades at that level, I suppose they get a bit more climber-specific at one's limit. Although if there are E6 6as on grit that are that survivable, I've yet to see them.

Yes Andromeda Strain. Fantastic route. Still one of my best climbing experiences doing that. I stand by those pitch grades - the second pitch is "only" E4 5c in it's own right i.e. serious but not terminal....ON IT'S OWN that is. Given the overall situation you're in (I didn't change the overall grade), taking an E4 5c fall / injury off it would lead to all sorts of complications / embarrassments and might be best avoided.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kingholmesy on July 17, 2019, 12:01:56 am
That sounds like a fair summary of Andromeda Strain. The thought of getting on it is both terrifying and compelling. Given that it’s only 15 minutes from my house it’ll stay on the list, but for now I’m puntering around on E1s getting back into climbing.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kingholmesy on July 17, 2019, 12:13:32 am
Ps part of the issue with Demolition is probably just that I’m a bit rubbish on granite - which is a shame seeing as there’s so much of it down here.

Just as well the Atlantic coast is so good.  :bounce:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on July 17, 2019, 09:14:26 am
Holmsey - I might have submitted that irrefutably accurate description. But the moderator had to approve it too...

Crocker used to be a bit of a hero of mine for his exploration and productivity. The more I read into it and read between the lines, the more I realise that Crocker is a very specific character - let's a say a Gibson-style obsessive but actually doing good quality routes. Crocker does what Crocker wants, sometimes that coincides with producing great routes for others to repeat, sometimes it produces stuff that is....somewhat less feasible. His Rhinnog output is very much in that line, lots of stuff done for getting first ascents that suited him at the time, which often provide a quite different experience on repeating (often good and sometimes easier, sometimes not). Another example is his exhortation that fixed gear has been only used as a last resort there - but he's littered The Silver Screen at Bodlyn with multiple pegs on all his E6s, at the same time filling the area with E2-5 solos that are comfortable for him but could have been much better leads with a peg.... He is very definitely a beast though.


Good effort as always on your exploration of the lesser-know corners of Wales but have to disagree with your, stereotypical, comment about Gibson's contribution. Both Gibson and Crocker have produced a great many very shit routes. Both Gibson and Crocker have produced a great many very good routes. Perhaps climbing on bolts more than you I see Gibson's routes more than you do. There's undoubted snobbery in climbing when it comes to views on Gibson as he doesn't fit the mold- a good thing. But when it comes down to it I think littering your first ascents with pegs because you're obsessed is no better style than bolting routes that shouldn't have been bolted because you're obsessed. From an obsessive FA'er.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 17, 2019, 09:38:26 am
Hey Pete. Yeah fair enough that comment was quite trite. Although I climb a fair bit in Peak Lime quarries so I do appreciate the full spectrum and variety of Gibbo's creations! And that includes ones that are genuinely good and I respect him for developing - so no I'm not a stereotypical GG-dismisser.

But I do think they are both very specific - and arguably fairly demented - characters who simultaneously contribute a vast amount to climbing (MC via diverse and hardcore hidden gems, GG via very extensive consumer-friendly climbing) but also have some shortcomings due to their relentless obsessions (MC via wanting total control over his crags and not getting how routes will be for others, GG by bolting endless choss to make up the numbers).

I'd say though, that the average quality of MC's output is higher - but then again not necessarily as useful to the average climber. 30 3-hollow-star E4-7s on Cadair Idris verse 30 zero-to-1 start F6a-bs in some Wirksworth chosshole  :devangel:
Title: fiendblog10 year moratorium.
Post by: comPiler on July 21, 2019, 01:11:26 am
10 year moratorium.


As some eagle-eyed viewers may spot, I am quite keen on normal traditional climbing i.e. looking at the book, looking at a route from the bottom and maybe side or top, pulling on to it and trying really hard to get to the top first time - let's call this "onsight" climbing, without prior knowledge nor experience of the route. I'm less a fan of the spurious ego-wanking attainment-entitlement toss-wittery of picking something you want to achieve or tick but you're not actual capable of, not trying to improve to be capable of it, and avoiding the whole issue by inspecting or practising it - let's call this "pre-failure", without even giving it a normal attempt to fail on gracefully. I even sometimes vocally promote the former over the latter (subject to the usual disclaimer about it being less applicable to cutting edge "beyond current onsighting levels" routes and especially new routes, because despite the gargantuan levels of idiocy required to mis-extrapolate that, some people really are that stupid - you know who you are).

So far, so unsurprising. Also unsurprising is that I promote the former in a "spirit of the law, not letter of the law" sort of way. It's all about the experience - the best, most rewarding, most honest, most true-to-self, experience. There's lots of potential nitty gritty about the ethics - or style, if anyone gives a flying belay-ledge-shit about that linguistic distinction - that roughly codify that experience. Lots of potential UKC "Peak vs Peaks"-style cure-for-insomnia pedant-debates about "if a mate throws up a cam you've forgotten, is it onsight?", "if you downclimb to a rest ledge and take your shoes off to rest your feet is it onsight?", "if you ab down, wirebrush the fuck out of it and preplace the gear, but you'd shot a testtube of crack into your ringpiece* before doing so, is it still onsight?" etc etc (* - nb a prerequisite for taking part in such debates).

In fact it's a grey area, with the shades of grey being fairly obvious to anyone with half a brain who gets that experience. But still they are many and varied and shades and sometimes one gets strange results...

Take a climber. He has just climbed a cool bold route. He abseils down to strip the spaced gear as his partner doesn't fancy seconding it (the same partner that despite being a much better climber neglected to mention that he had previously been rescued of a rest ledge on his attempt ahem). On the way down he casually glances across at an adjacent much harder route, spying the crucial mid-crux RP placement and noting that it seems good, as does a sporadic hold. He doesn't test the size, pull on the holds, nor attempt any sequences - a literal quick look. Yet so much crucial information is revealed that would make a massive difference to the confidence in climbing it. Enough of a different experience so of course he walks away, does a couple of boulder problems, and drives home.

(That was me, doing Pillar Of Judgement, and looking at Judge Dredd at The Nth Cloud)

Take a climber. He's at a crag choosing a route. He looks at his friend's guidebook and picks a mild testpiece. He sets off from the bottom, pulls on some holds, places some gear, works out some moves, cranks through a pushy bulge, reaches the top. All good honest fun. Except when he comes to "tick" the route in his own, battered and abused, guidebook, he notices the shock of "X - PF" . He's previously failed on the route, presumably pumping out and not committing on the crux bulge, presumably slumping and lowering off the gear. He has been there, on those holds, placing that gear, pulling those moves. But not only can he not remember enough to constitute any prior knowledge, he couldn't even remember having tried and failed at all. He calmly rubs out the cross and replaces it with a tick.

(That was me, doing The Prophet at Cummingston)

What does it - all this 3rd person verbosity - all mean?? It means that the concept of the retro-flash, the amnesia-point, letting the onsight grow back, is very real. And if you're honest with yourself, and have genuinely forgotten any prior knowledge that could change the journey, the experience is very real. Honesty is the key, as is forgetfulness - I seem to do okay at both.

This relates to my current situation insofar as I'm back down somewhere where I've previously climbed a lot, and thus as a cowardly punter naturally previously failed a lot. Dividing my existence into pre-Scottish-exile and post-escape-from-the-frozen-North, there is an elegant decade gap between climbing and failing back then and climbing and failing now. Thus my 10 year moratorium - if I failed on it in my previous incarnation, I almost certainly can't remember anything useful, so it is fair game in the spirit of the ethical law.

Bring on the retro-flashes!


Source: 10 year moratorium. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on July 21, 2019, 01:15:04 pm
Cheating bastard. This should go into the 'outrageous tactics/tricks for THE SEND thread'.
Title: fiendblogTrwyn Maen Melyn
Post by: comPiler on July 22, 2019, 01:00:56 pm
Trwyn Maen Melyn


The rock type is apparently "Gwna Melange" (unless Pantontino made that up in a sleep-deprived guidebook-editing haze) and the crag classic is The Bardsey Ripple. If you think these sound more like exotic Welsh ice-cream flavours, then that's a fair view of what to expect from the crag - imagine ALL the rock types of the Lleyn mixed together and frozen into a concreted wave of the upmost weirdness. But somehow it has the highest ratio of "surprisingly solid" to "looks alarmingly semi-detatched" in the area, quite fortuitous given the angle. The guidebook descriptions needed sorted for a couple of routes and some of the stars are estimates but it really is a lovely spot. Approach etc via Lleyn CC guide or North Wales Rock, check BMC RAD for bird bans but they don't seem to affect this bay.


Headstrong E2 5b *
Start from the giant block (the white speckles are quartz not bird poo), and follow a line leftwards out to the edge of the wall. An easier lower line might be possible.

The Incredible Surplus Head E3 5c **
Start from the giant block, climb steeply up to bisect TBR, continue even more steeply up via the head and finish leftwards with much pump.

The Ideal Hom Experience E2 5b **
A good irresistable line. Ideally start at the base of the corner behind the blocks, or at high tide from the block itself. Climb the steep corner via the featured rightwall to bisect TBR, continue via an undercling to escape rightwards into a bay, the far corner being the obvious exit.

Isis In Orbit E3/4 5c **
Another good, very direct and steep line. Bridge up between the boulder and the right wall of TIHE, then continue up the wall on various fangs and boulders to regain TIHE at it's crack and undercling. Climb direct into a well-positioned niche and pull out directly through the steepness to finish.

The Bardsey Ripple E2 5b ***
Brilliant and bonkers, traversing the intrusion to take in the best of the crag. Start in the cleft of QB, bridge up then drop down and swing swiftly leftwards to gain a groove. Follow this then escape around the left rib to gain the intrusion, and follow this all the way to the left end of the crag with much exposure, elation, rope-drag etc.

Stoned Immaculate E2 5b *
Superceded by TIHE and TBR, but should still be fun. Start as for TBR to the groove, the continue direct to gain the bay of TIHE. A direct finish from this might be good. The "bouldery start" described in the book would be much harder and more serious (E4 6a and paddable?).

Queer Bar E3 5c **
Another great line. Start in the mighty cleft and squirm up it to get some respite above, the continue through the obvious bulge above. Can be very greasy, giant cam useful.

The Ungradeable Donkey E3 5c/6a *
A shorter route, but varied and interesting. Start a few metres up the ramp from QB, at an RP slot and high hold. Crank past the bulge onto the slab of rock that's escaped from Holyhead Mountain. Continue to the break then climb up the interesting crunchy groove to pop out rightwards. An easier start is possible just right, while the "start as for Queer Bar" described in the book is illogical and would be much harder.

The Eyes Have It E4 6a *
Climb the obvious diagonal break from right to left, with a very steep finish.

The Bardsey Shuffle E7 6b **
Wild and aesthetic. Start as for TEHI until the TUD groove, then break out left onto the very steep wall via the giant embedded eyes to finish up the crest.


Source: Trwyn Maen Melyn (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: fatneck on July 24, 2019, 08:27:37 am
Lovely - I had one of my finest sea fishing experiences ever down there - special place!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 24, 2019, 08:50:07 am
There were some fishermen right there below the crag. They thought we were bonkers. I don't know if they caught any fish.
Title: fiendblogA Decade Of Disability.
Post by: comPiler on September 01, 2019, 01:06:29 am
A Decade Of Disability.


"But you're not properly disabled"

"But you're lucky in many other ways"

"But you can climb F7a, squat 100kg, etc"

"But there are people who are seriously crippled"

Etc etc.

I know all that shit. I also know my own situation and that's what I'm writing about. If you don't think I've got something to write about, imagine this:

  • You've been running sporadically for a dozen years, just gentle road runs. You go out one evening. It's a good evening - clot sites don't ache too much, lungs aren't crawling up your throat. You manage 1.5 miles / 2.5 k, maybe 16 mins total with a 45 second walking section in the middle....it's a good evening. 
  • You go out another evening, same run, it's fucking murderous - legs like lead, lungs like drowning, it takes 2 x 1 minute walking sections and you barely make it. 
  • You walk in to The Cromlech - the easy left hand way, no rack, just one half rope and everything else minimised, walking poles for aid. 4 rests? 5 rests? 6 rests? Something like that. 
  • You've stopped speculating on whether this - fitness - will ever progress, because it physically cannot. There is no possible major improvement.
  • You go to a Rolo Tomassi / Gojira gig, spend too long standing around, moshing from the waist up. Your legs ache for a couple of days after, you keep looking down and checking the engorged collaterals, hoping they're still working.....because if they're not, there's no plan B, no other venous return.
  • You watch your weight creeping up and up and your physical climbing prowess creep down and down - an inevitable consequence of limited aerobic training options, unfortunately combined with difficulty dieting due to digestive issues, and difficulty focusing on remaining possibilities due to depression.

It's now the 10th year anniversary since I was released from hospital after spending a few weeks incarcerated while my sudden DVTs were investigated. A whole fucking decade eh. Looking at the decade, I've done pretty well. I've done some amazing climbing and exploring, some decent training and gymming, one disappointingly singular skiing trip that went great, and a reasonable amount of approach walks all of which have been distinctly inhibited and arduous but I've hauled my rotting carcass up there and usually up some rock face once I've recovered.

As I often say to people about living with this, yes, very minor but yes very real issue: I spend 50% of the time just not thinking about it and getting on with stuff, 25% of the time thoroughly frustrated and pissed off at it, and 25% of the time happy and satisfied that I've done so much despite it.

This year, this anniversary (unlike the first year anniversary celebrating a fairly smooth catching up), the percentages are maybe skewed the other way towards frustration and pissed-off-ness. I'm still going, yes, still on the rock after hobbling in to get there, but things are going fairly mediocrely at the moment, factoring in the digestion and depression. Heavier than ever and as unconfident as I've been in recent years. Probably just a natural lull, but frustrating as I've stacked the odds in my favour with the move to Manchester (now THAT is worth celebrating) and a fairly sensible injury recovery, and not really capitalised on that in terms of proper climbing pleasure. Still, I'm keeping myself going with redpointing bollox (fairly fun and physical), and still aiming for a decent autumn....



Source: A Decade Of Disability. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on September 02, 2019, 09:58:00 am
Ski season is coming. Make it happen..
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 02, 2019, 10:49:54 am
Wise words!! I really should, I do miss it a lot.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: smellyfox on September 02, 2019, 11:20:30 pm
Great blog post.

Count me in for the skiing, Dolomites maybe?

But you can shove your horrible limestone repointing up your arse...

Also counting the days for grit season starting again, its been a few months of downer for me on the climbing front, but I'm starting to feel the draw again. It is so uninspiring in the central belt. I'm really looking forward to some cool dry connies down south (and north).
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 03, 2019, 10:49:51 am
You've definitely been a good part of the fun and exploration in the last decade  :icon_beerchug: Yeah would be ace to see you down here on the grit...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on September 03, 2019, 11:03:32 am


But you can shove your horrible limestone repointing up your arse...


Isn't that what they do to old buildings?
Title: fiendblogMix And Match.
Post by: comPiler on September 26, 2019, 01:00:10 pm
Mix And Match.


Sorry for the lack of updates. I've got a couple of vaguely philosophical things to write but also blogger's block about actually putting sweaty fingertips to keyboard. In the meantime I have actually got to Wales a bit more satisfyingly regularly than previously during summer, and even finally managed to climb at South Stack after a month and half of trying to rally any troops to join me - and of course had wonderful route experiences that have fully confirmed why it's so important to visit this area once the bird bans are off. Truly the best "roadside" (not cafeside as it's currently being rebuilt) adventures in the UK. I've only done Rapture Of The Deep and Natalie so far, both highly entertaining and excellent Type 1 fun, and both in warm mid-September weather that gives me hope that any settled spells in mid-October will provide even better conditions to prolong the pleasure.

In contrast, I've mixed and matched those jaunts with an essential "double celestial phenomenon" Llanberis Pass tick of Quasar and Pulsar, both the polar opposite of the South Stack sheningans, and both great in their own more predictable and more powerful ways. It's been really nice to dip into such variety of the single / two pitch trad climbing spectrum. On the other hand my stamina is still completely fucked from a winter / spring without training and compounded with too much redpointing which is fine for 3 minutes of rehearsed power-endurance and absolutely rubbish for actually hanging on to anything for more than 5 seconds, so I'm not really doing anything properly challenging, but I'm doing the right sort of stuff at least.

The side-dish to this surf and turf smorgasbord (a big fat rolly polly seal at Gogarth, a mocking stalking sheep in the hills) has been a flavourful serving of blocs, courtesy of an exceptionally extensive menu in the North Wales Bouldering "put one's deadlifting training to use" book. I've tagged a bit of exploring onto trad trips and had a disproportionate amount of fun out there - there really is classic quality on the Welsh boulders, as long as you stay away from the Cromlech and Cave, of course. I hope the current tiresome sunshine and showers bullshit will abate enough to continue that too. In the meantime, some random images....








Source: Mix And Match. (http://)
Title: fiendblogLevels of engagement.
Post by: comPiler on September 29, 2019, 01:06:54 am
Levels of engagement.


This is something I have been pondering on for a wee while. When we go out and climb, or attempt to climb, a route, it's often not as simple as that. There are ways to dabble and test the waters, and ways to be fully committed to a determined ascent, and ways in between. Simultaneously subdividing yet simplifying, one can characterise 5 (possibly not definitive) levels of engagement with a route:

1. Just looking:
Visiting the crag, seeing the route in the flesh, inspecting from different angles, learning about aspects and angles and conditions, and quite probably pondering deeply on it all.

2. Playing around on the start:
"Playing around" as in starting the route with a distinct possibility and likely intention just to see how it feels, learn a bit more, and cleanly downclimb and leave a more determined attempt until another day.

3. Engaging without expectations:
Starting the route but this time continuing without a fixed expectation of success, only an expectation of giving it a good effort and seeing what happens, balancing out a desire to succeed if possible with an acknowledgement it might not happen.

4. Getting to the top:
The "normal" one. Climbing the route - cleanly, onsight, of course - and (hopefully) succeeding in getting to the top and doing the whole thing, without any particular standards of smoothness or elegance.

5. Climbing the route "well":
Not just getting to the top, nor just underperforming and climbing so far within your limits that something looks effortless. But rather, having a good challenge, and doing a good job of doing it right: the optimum tactics and attitude, a good battle, and a pleasurable experience.

All of these have their merits, whether it's for being a canny climber, going on a journey, aspiring to good style, tackling a challenge. But of course there's different mindsets, different rewards, different suitabilities for different situations. Getting stuck in particular approaches may not always be as beneficial as flexibility.

One thing I've personally noticed is how I tend towards particular engagements more than others - and why:

I do a lot of 1 and 2, ostensibly under the guise of clever tactics and gathering information, but often more honestly because I'm scared of committing, scared of the challenge, scared of the stress, scared of failure (even though deep down I know how wonderful fully engaging will be). So I convince myself I've done something useful while "onsight inspecting" a route and walking away, and sometimes that is genuinely the right decision, sometimes it's avoiding the issue, and often I don't know which.

I also, when I've got bored of the faff and run out of reasons to put things off, do a fair bit of 4, once I've got the level of challenge and conditions (personal and external) just right. Often with a fair bit more faff up and downing en route, the usual panic and sketching until I realise that it's okay. And that's still great in itself. Very rarely, I engage with 5, where I get things right and do a "bloody good job old chap" and feel that my personal performance and pleasure on that route was spot on. That's nice when it happens, but there's plenty of mental clutter and clart that gets in the way of it.

One level of engagement I almost never do outside is 3 - engaging without expectations. Inside, sure, I mix up many route sessions with a couple of 7a++s where I deliberately set off saying "I'm almost certainly not going to do this, but I'm just aiming for a massive pump and a good fall" (often swiftly followed by actually doing it). Outside, only in redpointing do I say similar "I'm going to give this a good burn, climb as well as I can, and if I don't get to the top, I'll have got the sequences smoother, maybe refined my beta, and got a good workout". In fact I said EXACTLY that the other week when I was trying Haslam (without the off-route rest ledge) at Trollers, on my 5th redpoint burn of my 2nd session. I actually did the route, but success on the route paled in comparison with my success in my attitude before starting.

But for onsight trad....engaging without expectations.... Hmmm. Where I might fall and fail and blow that precious onsight?? (Or, maybe, might have a clear-headed enough determination to do it??) Gulp. I haven't mastered that yet. I don't think I've even tried. I did briefly have it in mind a month or so ago on a minor, tricky, and very inspiring route. I said it to myself before I set off, but the idea lasted until it got a bit tricky just on the cusp of no return, and I managed to grovel back to the ground and my comfort zone of Engagement Level 2... Sure there were some factors like tiredness from bad warm-ups and sore skin. But at some point it would be beneficial to try it seriously (serious fun?!). It's a tricky one because firstly onsighting routes is genuinely, deeply, and fundamentally the most pleasurable to me - it's no shallow ethical posturing, it's a real gut feeling about how right and rewarding that experience is. So it's hard for me to be as casual and carefree about that aim as might be ideal. Secondly, it's a difficult balance - I'm always treading a fine line balancing out challenge with the likelihood at success, and I've got pretty good at that tightrope act (no, not that sort of "tight rope" you bellends), in particular aiming for and being inspired by challenges I have a decent chance at. Choosing routes that are tricky (and safe) enough to engage without expectations, whilst amenable and desirable enough that I stand some chance of doing them and thus can give them a good determined effort (rather than flopping off at the earliest "I know this is way beyond me" opportunity) will take some of that off-resorted-to pondering.

But you never know, I might get there some day. Always something to learn, even if it's an old dog struggling with new tricks....


Source: Levels of engagement. (http://)
Title: fiendblogTwo Years Of Total Yuck.
Post by: comPiler on November 01, 2019, 07:00:21 pm
Two Years Of Total Yuck.



Hopefully this won't be reposted in 8 years time and entitled "A Decade Of Disease" or some such horseshit. It's now two years since I contracted gastroenteritis and never fully recovered - and still am not, although I am recovering (very slowly, mostly the nausea bouts have been sparse enough that I can stockpile prochlorperazine - at least until last week when I had two sleep-deprived nights in a row, ugh). Still it's been two fucking years and I'm not exactly thrilled about that, apart from generally feeling unpleasant, I feel like a reduced version of myself. Fiend V2 (post-DVT), sure there's 30% remaining leg fitness and 15% additional weight gain, but the spirit and sanity is generally intact. Fiend V3 (post-GE) ...is not quite himself. Not so much a shadow of his former self, but a slightly greyscale version.

People often highlight the silver lining benefits of going through injury and illness and indeed that is sometimes the case. For me, going through DVTs encouraged a fight and determination that I was previously convinced my flaccid moral fibre lacked. The bad soft-tissue leg injury at the same time as GE - I found patience dealing with it, and doing a steady job of healing, and trained my upper body well. Double tennis elbow - frustrating but I found some cool slabs.

The GE and subsequent "Post-Viral IBS Of The Upper Digestive Tract" (a catch-all term for something in your upper gut is b0rked and no the NHS has no idea what to do with it), well let's look at the pros and cons of that:

Pros:

+ Learnt a bit about the sensitive and complex workings of the gut that I never wanted nor previously needed to know.


Cons:

- Reduced sense of self
I just don't feel like myself. A bit wishy-washy maybe, but it's a constant feeling that I'm not me, I'm me with this disease inside...somewhat unclean (even more than normal), and inhibited.

- Reduced reliability
Because I can struggle to plan in advance of my insides are bad, and have to change and cancel plans.

- Reduced energy
Just more tired and less physical (and sometimes mental) energy.

- Reduced levels of activity
Due to less energy but also timeouts due to queasiness / indigestion, and making less big plans than before.

- Reduced pleasure in food
Mostly being on a much more restricted diet, with occasional general wariness about eating.

- Slightly increased weight
You'd think a restricted, healthier, lighter diet would help me to lose weight, but no. I've gained a bit, presumably because my body isn't digesting food properly and putting on weight rather than giving me energy.

- Inconvenience of trying to eat on the go
Obviously convenient snacking isn't usually healthy, but hey it's convenient and works fine as part of a normal diet. Unless of course you can't do it. Food out and about is more of a pain.

- More susceptible to stomach bugs
For obvious reasons.

- Increased food expense
Having to avoid cheap staples and cheap enhancements, and buying more "luxury" healthier food to make it remotely palatable. Added to the cost of nutritionist, naturopath, counsellor, etc......

- Increased depression and vulnerability
A combination of feelings about many of the above factors, along with a direct emotional effect of when I have nausea bouts, which can be debilitatingly prominent and upsetting.

- Reduced sociability
Because a fair bit of my socialising revolved around good food and good coffee. I'm not a boozer, but I relish sharing a good meal, a fun pub dinner, a nice strong coffee and pastry. Or rather, I did...

......

(In fairness there's a few things it doesn't seem to affect - I don't seem any more prone to illnesses like common colds, nor injuries (the tennis elbows were down to plain stupidity), and my cognitive faculties are fine as are my sleeping habits (despite needing a bit more)).

None of these issues, apart from maybe the lower energy and depression, are major in themselves, but culmulatively they actually make the post-GE situation more inhibitive and harder to cope with than the at-the-time "life-threatening" and subsequently "crippling" DVTs. Thus is the nature of the gut (and brain).

Yes this is me moaning again. Yes get a whole fucking orchestra of tiny violins (they can be the soundtrack to you clicking the Back button on your browser). Yes people are in much worse situations - and they can write about that themselves. But for me, as a dedicated climber, this is part of my situation and part of my climbing (which partly got wiped out by it in spring/summer 2018 and bits of early summer this year). Do all those cons above sound good and beneficial for the climbing lifestyle?? Errr. No.  Am I getting "used to it" and plodding on?? A little bit. Am I still healing?? A little bit. Am I healing quicker than I'm getting used to this bullshit situation?? I fucking hope so. I've accepted being Fiend-with-DVTs, I've no intention of accepting being Fiend-with-perma-PVIBSOUDT - because that greyscale version really ain't me.

Well maybe just occasionally...




Source: Two Years Of Total Yuck. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kingholmesy on November 01, 2019, 09:53:32 pm
Always enjoy your blogs Fiend.*

Keep on keeping on mate.

*except maybe stuff about about toy soldiers.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 02, 2019, 09:40:46 am
Thanks Holmsey, that's appreciated, especially since the last one is a pile of dung - but I needed to write it due to the timing and just wanting to get it off my chest. The previous one was okay though I thought...

If you want toy soldiers I have a separate blog here:

https://teamshambler.blogspot.com/

Although it's mostly been Quake mapping in the last year... I hope to do a couple of toy soldiers over winter tho ;)
Title: fiendblogThe state of climbing 2019.
Post by: comPiler on November 09, 2019, 07:00:03 pm
The state of climbing 2019.


A factual analysis:

PROS:

  • Ground Up guides - especially the North Wales Bouldering bible but also in general. Elegant, functional, and characterful, I like the consistent subtle prose and descriptions.
  • The amount of indoor bouldering walls around - God knows we need them with this weather. Hurrah for commercial populist bandwagons that actually provide some good fun and good training.
  • Beta chalk - getting harder to find because like all good things people want generic crap instead, but still as deliciously crunchy as ever. I had to go back to using Metolius SuperChalk when I ran out of Beta and it was like finely powdered butter on my fingers. Drying agent my arse.
  • IFSC - constantly entertaining throughout spring summer and autumn. Production values are now nearly matching the exceptional climbing and (mostly) setting values and even Baldy Boscoe's commentary has transcended tolerable and is actually sometimes good. WTF did I watch before this was on regularly??
  • South Stack - still the illest. It only took one route to remind me how deeply wonderful Red Wall was. My plan to live their for 2 months over the autumn failed dismally though. The best "roadside" adventure in the UK if not the world, and all quite amenable too.
  • Peaks / Yorkshire sport climbers - quite surprising given the  pointless, miserable, unaesthetic, repetitive, puritanical work ethic sub-genre of climbing they're so addicted to, but actually mostly a nice and welcoming bunch. Being able to mix and match and share ropes and chat (blah blah polished crimp blah minging undercut blah blah polished knobble etc) with random strangers was a relaxed sociability I'd almost forgotten about.
  • Building patios - a bit naughty but oh so nice. Not talking about Hayward's "let's build decking structures the size of a Swedish chalet in a sensitive nature reserve and then make sure they're hidden in all the topo shots" at Fontainfawr, just common or garden reshuffling of ground level blocks and stones. It's the closest to gardening I come these days thank fuck and sometimes more fun than the climbing. I particularly enjoyed dismantling the patio beneath My Private Idaho (hard lineless eliminate) at Crafnant and rebuilding it beneath Riley's Arete (mid-grade classic prow) - redistribution of patio For The Many, Not The Few!
  • The amount of techy slopey weirdness indoor problems - generally because it means that walls are setting with half decent holds not the dismal old style Core and Holdz shite. But also they're quite fun and sometimes fat weak people with some outdoor nouse can do them.
  • Dogs at crags - far better than people at crags. Infinitely better than squawking kids (how did those idiots get their trio of rampantly shrill grubs down to Moat anyway??) Apart from that one Buster at Trollers, he was a bit of a dick.


CONS:

  • Alan James - gets his knickers in a twist because I post a polite but critical reply about the content of an article. Bans me on the basis that all I do is post negativity BUT SOMEHOW KEEPS THE OFFENDING POST UP - perhaps because it's got far more total likes/dislikes than the original article post AND has caused enough discussion for my name to crop of 41 times in the replies. Hope you're liking those page views, user engagement and advertiser views that my "ban-worthy but not censorship-worthy" (how the fuck does that work??) post was getting you. Then demands me to justify why I should be let back on the forum. Tell you what Alan, if you just apologise for your double standards and using my post to keep the discussion flowing whilst simultaneously banning me for it, I won't ask you to justify how you can get away with abusing forum moderation (I reviewed the UKC forum guidelines to know full well that I didn't contravene them) that much.
  • The amount of indoor wall boulderers around - cunts, the lot of them. I don't know what's worse, that they all got into it indoors and are all vacuous shallow gym bunnies who aspire to go to the Plantation or Almscliff and think that Malham is the epitome of adventurous roped climbing (and clearly don't know how to brush the fucking holds indoors nor out if they ever get there) or that because they all got into it indoors, they're all far far stronger than I'll ever be, regardless of age, gender, body shape or stupid floppy hipster haircuts. Arseholes.
  • Videos full of choppy editing and shoehorned slo-mo - I'm amazed this is still a thing, but apparently "unwatchabley annoying" is still an important ambition for today's budding Youtuber. What part of their brain thinks "I am filming this problem, and the movement looks really cool, so midway through I'll chop out random sections of the move and glue the rest together so it looks like my camera was malfunctioning, yes great idea. Maybe I'll slo-mo one hand slap out of the remaining 50% of unedited movement just to make it more jarring". Because I want to carve their fucking skulls open and burn out that part with acid until they actually use some fucking sense. Also special shout out for anyone doing a trailer for a po-faced pretentious bouldering film and then a teaser FOR THE SODDING TRAILER. You aren't making a $500 million Hollywood movie, get a grip.
  • The weather - two days of heatwave or occasional dryness followed by two weeks of pissing wank isn't weather, it's shit on a stick. Where the stick is also made out of shit.
  • The Climbing Hangar - One of the 3 out of 37 indoor walls that I've been to that enforces a strict shirt-on policy (presumably they don't allow girls just wearing sports bras either), and since the other two are council / general sports run, the only one apparently run by climbers, but clearly not for climbers who actually want to train, on a damp warm summer's day, by pulling hard. The reason behind the rule?? "It's just wall rules" Why?? "Because it's the wall rules".  OH JUST PISS THE FUCK OFF. Incidentally on the subject of how intimidating shirtless males must be, out of all the possible choices at The Boardroom (good wall, no stupid rules, go there instead), a dad and young daughter chose the shirtless meathead to ask to take a few photos of them in front of the wall. Oh the intimidation! Oh the horror! FFS.
  • Mundane shit VLogs - The great thing about the internet is anyone can make and share content. The terrible thing about the internet is anyone can make and share content. And yes that applies to climbing VLogs too. Climbing footage is fine, personal videos are great, but if you're going to wrap it up as some heavily commentated fucking "lifestyle" diary, it better be remotely interesting and exciting. The same old same old with a lot of filler and some fucking blethering shite into the camera - FFS get your snout off my screen, if I wanted talking heads I'd watch some TV chat show, I want to see cool climbing, not some over-hyped dross. Bonus anti-points if you're spamming it all over social media without the slightest though to it's relevance or value. 
  • Road cyclists - One of the main things putting me off moving down here. What's the point having 20,000 Peaks and Yorkshire crags on your doorstep if it takes all day to get there because you're stuck behind a flotilla of matching-logo lycra-clad cunts swarming like a cloud of road-based midges on their poncy fucking roadbikes that cost more than my Audi and weigh less than Paul B's toe, weaving around to ensure than any attempt to get past them and get to a crag in the same day you set off results in a head-on collision with a tractor and the self-righteous twats videoing it to smugly post on a Indignant Road Bikers 4 Justice 4 Ever facebook group. Thank fuck I can go the other way to Helsby or Wales. As for climbers who have partly given up and are focusing on road cycling more....don't get me started, there aren't enough swearwords (I'm running low already).
  • Bog - I moved down to Scotland to avoid this malignant entity*, and yet somehow it's floated down after me. Wankerish stuff. Particular fuck off to the bog that I trod in in my freshly re-proofed £35 Decathlon waterproof shoes over the ankle twice, so they filled with brown slurry and the waterproofing must have worked because it wouldn't drain out. (* actually the malignant entity I moved down to avoid was Scotland itself).
  • The lack of old school board-style indoor problems - Jesus fuck does EVERYTHING have to be techy slopey weirdness these days?? What if you actually want to train by pulling on holds and don't want success entirely dictated by hypothetical conditions in some grimey warehouse sweatbox, combined with a specific 3 minute window after setting when a hold has been chalked but before it's caked in gank, plus some bloody yoga-like flexibility and teetering on some random textured skin-scraping shelf. You can have too much of a good thing, try adding some actual holds FFS.
  • People missing off UKB - You know it's in a bad state when people actually start replying seriously to Mr ScrapeScroat's threads the poor buggers. Bring back Dense, Dave, Cofe, Scouse, Jasper, Sloper and several others, I miss their banter and discussions. I'd even tolerate the return of Slackbot as long as he didn't actually post anything.
  • People who don't go trad climbing - you're all disgraces. Do you think I want to be scraping lichen and moss off with my teeth, just because you're so lazy and cowardly that you'd rather be polishing up the Catwalk or burying Trackside under chalk ALL THE SODDING TIME instead of getting any variety and breadth in your climbing. I've been in away in Scotland for years and you slackers have let everything slide into the over-eroded vs neglected-and-filthy dichotomy. Rubbish.
  • Speed ""climbing"" - the biggest piece of turd in the history of colossal pieces of turd. It's scarcely worth my contempt - but it gets it anyway.


So there you go. Objective science. You read it here first.


Source: The state of climbing 2019. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: robertostallioni on November 09, 2019, 07:09:32 pm
Enjoyed that. I miss the good ol' UKB days too  :'(
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: webbo on November 09, 2019, 07:11:14 pm
It’s not even half past seven and there’s already two of you having some sort of withdrawal symptoms.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Mr E S Capegoat on November 09, 2019, 07:34:33 pm
Power Klubb and it’s ripple effect eventually drove them all to insanity. Plus the good old days never existed really. Apart from when Boux  8c was on. He was quite good.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: tomtom on November 09, 2019, 09:54:09 pm
Power Klubb and it’s ripple effect eventually drove them all to insanity. Plus the good old days never existed really. Apart from when Boux  8c was on. He was quite good.

But you never posted in the non existent good old days :p

Good rant Fiend. For a minute when I saw all those positives I thought you'd popped a couple of E's... until I scrolled down :D
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Will Hunt on November 09, 2019, 09:56:08 pm
Preach, Fiend.
Title: fiendblogOutliers
Post by: comPiler on December 07, 2019, 07:00:02 pm
Outliers



Here's a video with strictly NO big numbers, no epic first ascents, no tales of struggle and victory, no scintillating exposition about the philosophy of the bouldering journey, and of course no drone footage no close-ups no slow-mo no choppy edits no coffee-making and no driving to the crag.

Just 39 off-piste Snowdonia classic boulder problems from 6A to 7A in 32 minutes, set to a soundtrack of uplifting jungle, serious techno, and bassy ambience.

Here's the deal: The "Outlying Crags" section (i.e. away from Llanberis / Ogwen) in the new fantastic North Wales Bouldering bible has grown 20-fold in the last decade or so. So whilst you could be queuing up to get run over after falling off The sodding Edge Problem, you could also explore a vast number of areas from the reasonably well known to the fully off-piste. And that's exactly what I did, and I had a bloody great time, and I wanted to show it off to other people. There's a few more things I wanted to fit in but ran out of weather, and thus maybe there will be a follow-up at some distant point. One thing I learnt was that the quality and variety in North Wales Bouldering is truly great, even if the conditions aren't quite as convenient as Albarracin ;).

The video kinda says it all, solely by the medium of pure simple climbing footage. The only other thing to add is that I'm pretty chuffed with the (hopefully accessible) soundtrack which took quite a bit of effort to segue etc but makes it a lot more fun I think.

Since this early Autumn excitement, the weather got terrible, I got manflu and then injured my back doing weights on de-oxygenated legs after running to the gym, then all of the above cleared up and I went out on the grit recently and it was mostly terrifying but I'm pretty psyched to keep going at it during winter and early spring...


Source: Outliers (http://)
Title: fiendblogStart as you mean to go on....
Post by: comPiler on January 01, 2020, 07:00:03 pm
Start as you mean to go on....


New Year's Resolutions:

1. Regain trad confidence as follows:

> Falling practise indoors (and outdoors if suitable)
> Stamina training
> Complementary training (fitness, flexibility, calf raises)
> Don't get sucked into too much sport climbing
> Make use of sport climbing for falling practise
> Avoid trad climbing with people who walk up my lifetime ambitions after I've backed off them
> Keep up with easier trad routes in uncomfortable styles to work my weaknesses
> Sometimes boulder / train on vaguely relevant terrain for particular trad routes
> Aim 3. below as it's a big hinderance physically and emotionally

2. Use confidence to tackle inspiring routes.

3. Focus more regularly on healing digestion.

4. Do more climbing trips away.

5. Keep flexible with conditions and venues/styles.

6. Keep up theraputic exercises, stretching etc.

7. Go to more hardcore / dnb nights.

8. Keep decluttering and selling stuff.




(Based on what's gone well and what's not gone well in the last year, posted mostly to remind myself esp. in case 7. rots my brain cells further)


Source: Start as you mean to go on.... (http://)
Title: fiendblogOperation Upgrade Yorkshire is in effect.
Post by: comPiler on February 02, 2020, 07:00:02 pm
Operation Upgrade Yorkshire is in effect.


Sort of. Certain comedy performance art pieces in the climbing scene recently have got me thinking about bouldering grades and the possibility of nudging them towards the remotely accurate. I've been going up to West Yorkshire a bit partly because the journey time is hardly much longer than going to Peaks grit, but is much cruisier being motorway for most of it compared to trudging through Stockport or Glossop, and partly because it's quite good and varied and thankfully not Almscliff. Return trundles along the M66 or M62 have given me time to ponder on the grading and thus here are some thoughts / corrections:

Recent dabblings:

Brimham:
Arthur 6C+ (E3 6b, 6a) [attempted] - This is a weird one. 6B+/C start to a hands off rest, then very rounded and committing scrittle-grovel over the top which is very morpho but probably not that hard. Not nearly as good as it looks TBH.
Perky 6B+ - seems spot on.

Brimham Outliers:
Boris Or Bust 6C - Spot on. Not too hard but precarious and tenuous. Great feature!
Fiddlesticks 6B+ (6C) - As hard as BOB, did it just as good conditions, but was warmed up more and more confident with the landing, and it took me longer.

Gilstead:
Eldwick Direct 6B+ (6C) - Very hard reachy crank on a tiny crimp, I did this in perfect conditions and it was still a hell of a move. I suspect this is the same as the imaginary 6C next to it that doesn't have holds. Lovely little area of problems there.

Scout Hut:
Needle Of Dreams 6C - Easy climbing and a move that would be an easy flash at ground level, but at that height feels well goey. Absolute classic.
Dodger 6B+ - Nowhere near as hard as the photo of JP makes it look.
James Dean 6C (7A) [attempted] - Tried this repeatedly after warming up on NOD in perfect conditions with good skin (before trying it!). Might be a bit morpho but deffo two grades harder than NOD, I couldn't do a couple of moves let alone link them.

Earl Hitching Stone:
Bryony's Arete 7A - Spot on. Really cool problem. Suited me well as it's a gaston move with good feet, but I'm not going to go off on some arbitrary downgrade even though I did it quickly.
Rimbosity 6A (6B+) [attempted] - tried to do this as a warm-up in the most perfectly crisp conditions. Desperate. Gave up after a few attempts, as did someone who climbs Font 7C moves on hard-but-safe routes.

Shipley Glen:
Rudolph 6C -  spot on. A bit cranky to start, a bit goey in the middle, good value.


Previously on FiendTV:

Pebble Wall 6C+ - spot on.
Not My Stile 6C+ - spot on. Think I did it when it was V6 but easier than that.
Whiskey Galore 7A (soft 7A) - a bit soft but still maybe creeps in to 7A.
Deepfry 6B - spot on.
Murky Rib 6C (6B?) - I think I did it when it was V3/4 and felt okay at the grade?
Pair In A Cubicle 7A - spot on.
Pommel 6C+ - spot on.
Fat Punter's Roof 6C+ - spot on.
A Little Sparkle 7A - spot on, and amazing.
Sulky Little Boys 7A+ (morpho, hard 7A+ / 6C) - weird one this, absolutely desperate for the short who have to jump to the rugosity gaston on the arete, completely trivial for the tall who could reach it with feet in the break before the Font 6B/+ rockover to pocket. One of the hardest single moves I've ever done.
Mansons Wall 6C - spot on.
Red Baron 7A+ - correct I think?? I did it in 6 goes using the "John Dunne knee" beta and could have flashed it if I'd got my left hand higher on the first attempt. Does this mean it's suddenly 6C? I think not. Just the luck of the day and suiting me at that time.

Finally to compensate for this necessary but tedious dross / science, have some oldish photos:






Source: Operation Upgrade Yorkshire is in effect. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: tomtom on February 02, 2020, 07:48:43 pm
I found Sulky little boys really hard. Proper 7A+ for me (tall)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Will Hunt on February 02, 2020, 08:13:18 pm
This looks more like Operation Confirm The Guidebook Grade Of Several Established Classics?

I suspect the top of Arthur is dirtier than it is morpho. Maybe even a mistake if Barley (it is a Barley route isn't it?) traversed all the way right to finish up the arete. I think you've undersold the start too. I have a vague memory that it's definitely harder than 6B+.

I agree Fiddlesticks should probably go up to 6C.

What's the Eldwick Direct? Not in the book.

Murky Rib is widely regarded as being piss and should be sorted out.

Personally I found Pair in a Cubicle to be an absolute gift at 7A, and one which exists purely to message the egos of people who want to do a 7A. Obviously connies dependent and there's a bit of luck involved in finding the good bits to pull on, so I don't really see this as being in need of change.

Still not been to do A Little Sparkle. Must rectify this at some point.

In what world/to what kind of gangletrope freak could Sulky Little Boys ever be 6C? Solid 7A+.

Red Baron could only be considered 6C with very gratuitous pad stacking. Feels like a soft 7A+ or 7A to me.

When will you be trying some of the problems with contentious grades?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 02, 2020, 10:30:15 pm
Never. Giving up on Yorkshire bouldering as it's a bit shit.

Arthur I carefully brushed the top (it was bone dry, post NY dry spell) until it was a sparkling as rounded Brimham grovels get. If you're tall you can hold the lip sloper and stretch over to a useful ripple with your foot on the big hold. If you can't reach you have to use a higher smeary nipple that's likely to skid or push you back off the sloper. The start might be hard if you don't use the easier beta.

Eldwick Direct is the sandbag 6B+/C at Gilstead. It may have a different name but the book is over there on the shelf and I'm over on the sofa so no chance of checking.

Pair In A Cubicle I had to strip off to shirtless in mid-winter (proper winter, not this current bullshit) to get maximum belly friction. Definitive benchmark 7A grovelling/mantelling/sloper-suctioning.

I am struggling to imagine just how trivial SLB would be if you could just layback the arete a bit, casually reach the rugosity gaston with your feet in the break then smear a bit into the easy rockover, I suspect one would barely notice the whole thing, just like an awkward step in scrambling around to the top of the crag. It took me several hours to catch and hold the gaston and then 2 goes to do the finish, if I could have reached it the whole thing would have gone in a few minutes which would be quite a surprise as I'm not a 7A+ cruiser but then again if it I was a tall light cunt I obviously would be!!

P.S. the old stuff I mentioned is from 12-16 years ago and just mentioned for comparison, no interest to man nor beast really.

P.P.S. more like Operation Find Something To Write About as I've been quite crap at blogging recently.

P.P.P.S. tt I like that you specify (tall) as if I don't know that! I was getting a weird inverted vertigo looking distantly up at you at the Depot...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on February 03, 2020, 12:12:23 am
Defo worth a return to guiseCliffe will. Some of the new stuff is great. And a little sparkle, moptop and nought Bank stuff make for a Big Day Out.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: nai on February 03, 2020, 08:20:33 am
I am struggling to imagine just how trivial SLB would be if you could just layback the arete a bit, casually reach the rugosity gaston with your feet in the break then smear a bit into the easy rockover, I suspect one would barely notice the whole thing, just like an awkward step in scrambling around to the top of the crag. It took me several hours to catch and hold the gaston and then 2 goes to do the finish, if I could have reached it the whole thing would have gone in a few minutes

Exactly the same thought process I went through but maybe we're forgetting how bunched it would be for the the poor inflexible lambs.  I was also left completely underwhelmed by it.

P.P.P.S. tt I like that you specify (tall) as if I don't know that! I was getting a weird inverted vertigo looking distantly up at you at the Depot...

I also liked that
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 03, 2020, 08:51:12 am
Nai - yeah that's why I've generously given them 6C in case any lanksters forgot to do 5 minutes stretching before getting the foot up for the rockover, which is really more like 6B.

Alex - Nought Bank etc looked absolutely filthy when I drove past the other day. But maybe it would be a good use of an 18 pad send train bellend team to descent en masse and clean it up. ALS is one of the best problems in Yorkshire when it's clean.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Bradders on February 03, 2020, 09:00:05 am
I was also left completely underwhelmed by it.

Yeah, it's only popular because it's clean and dry all the time in a convenient location. Deeply average otherwise.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 03, 2020, 10:04:57 am
Sorry are we talking about SLB or Almscliff now??
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Will Hunt on February 03, 2020, 10:48:01 am
Some right shit being spoken here. It makes a change to be reading it rather than writing it.
I think for SLB, I get hands on the arete, paste left toe on a dreadful smear and push into it, then have to slap round the corner into the pocket. I seem to remember that it felt utterly nails when the sun (even winter sun) was on it. But that is the curse of the Slipstones - plenty of sun to dry the rock after rain, and also plenty of sun to heat the rock up and turn the connies to shit.

It's a bit grim, but it's a well-known benchmark which people want to have done. Isn't that what most "classics" are? :shrug:

BTW, what is the "JD knee beta" on Red Baron?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 03, 2020, 11:49:11 am
Some right shit being spoken here.
...
Quote
I think for SLB, I get hands on the arete, paste left toe on a dreadful smear and push into it, then have to slap round the corner into the pocket.
...exactly.  :lol: :lol: :lol: Christ what shambolic beta, no wonder you couldn't downgrade it. You do know there is a bivvy ledge for your left foot around the corner right?? It's hoiking your dangling ganglelegs onto that that ups it to 6C. Unless you're tomtom the secret alsation hipped yoga ninja in which case it's back to 6B+.

Whilst I'm here...

Quote
When will you be trying some of the problems with contentious grades?
Says the man who conducted the send train down to Burbage of all places. I know there was a secret ulterior motive to lank off all your mates but even so it's hardly the Gilstead / Scout Hut / Little Brimham of the Peaks  :P
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Will Hunt on February 03, 2020, 11:54:03 am
You're a one-man downgrading army, Fiend. All these problems must be 6C, max. How do I know? You've done them!  :P
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 03, 2020, 12:17:15 pm
Nah SLB is probably soft 7B for the short  :devangel:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 03, 2020, 12:40:52 pm
Seriously tho, next time you're there in cold connies, try SLB with your left foot on the diagonal edge around the corner. You might need to do some anal stretching to warm up for getting your foot high but I'm sure dunnychambers would oblige.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on February 03, 2020, 01:27:06 pm

Alex - Nought Bank etc looked absolutely filthy when I drove past the other day. But maybe it would be a good use of an 18 pad send train bellend team to descent en masse and clean it up. ALS is one of the best problems in Yorkshire when it's clean.

 :shrug:

It always looks gloomy from the road but there was plenty enough dry even at new year. It's busier than ever. Must be at least one or two visits a month. Luckily it's a big enough area to accommodate that. I've always found ALS clean, and the moptop
. Silly little boys was clean and dry in Jan as well. An 18 pad send train bellend team wouldn't go amiss on Toboggan though. Maybe it should be added to the station network.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 03, 2020, 01:41:59 pm
Wow okay, good to know, I'll give it another look when I'm in the area. When I drove past the blocks where barely distinct from the surrounding hillside jungle bog-garden, it didn't even seem worth the 30 second walk-in for a recce. But things do go up and down esp in a crazy BS winter like this one.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Will Hunt on February 03, 2020, 01:43:45 pm
Next weekend we're just going to find out where Fiend is going and go there to scream "send it, dude" at him constantly.

Nought Bank is definitely a winter crag. A visit in summer is near impossible with the amount of bracken that's there. Things like Pok-a-Tok (great problem) stay clean, and I expect Trust is always clean (you can walk up that for "7B" if you like, Matt).
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: tomtom on February 03, 2020, 06:06:24 pm
Some right shit being spoken here. It makes a change to be reading it rather than writing it.
I think for SLB, I get hands on the arete, paste left toe on a dreadful smear and push into it, then have to slap round the corner into the pocket.

I'm slighly different - get both hands on the arete highish, then horrible smears on the face, to somehow get a toe on the hold on the arete then pull around the arete to slap for the pocket and rock up. I find getting anything out of those smears really hard (bycycling legs) and I can imagine that being a bit easier for the less tall....
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on February 03, 2020, 07:11:59 pm
No it ain't, and that casually skimmed over "get both hands on the arete highish" is absolutely nails. So nerrrrr.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: tomtom on February 03, 2020, 09:38:31 pm
No it ain't, and that casually skimmed over "get both hands on the arete highish" is absolutely nails. So nerrrrr.

Yes it’s hard. Can’t get the top good one with feet still on the break....
Title: fiendblogThe state of climbing 2019.
Post by: comPiler on March 09, 2020, 01:00:10 am
The state of climbing 2019.


A factual analysis:

PROS:

  • Ground Up guides - especially the North Wales Bouldering bible but also in general. Elegant, functional, and characterful, I like the consistent subtle prose and descriptions.
  • The amount of indoor bouldering walls around - God knows we need them with this weather. Hurrah for commercial populist bandwagons that actually provide some good fun and good training.
  • Beta chalk - getting harder to find because like all good things people want generic crap instead, but still as deliciously crunchy as ever. I had to go back to using Metolius SuperChalk when I ran out of Beta and it was like finely powdered butter on my fingers. Drying agent my arse.
  • IFSC - constantly entertaining throughout spring summer and autumn. Production values are now nearly matching the exceptional climbing and (mostly) setting values and even Baldy Boscoe's commentary has transcended tolerable and is actually sometimes good. WTF did I watch before this was on regularly??
  • South Stack - still the illest. It only took one route to remind me how deeply wonderful Red Wall was. My plan to live their for 2 months over the autumn failed dismally though. The best "roadside" adventure in the UK if not the world, and all quite amenable too.
  • Peaks / Yorkshire sport climbers - quite surprising given the  pointless, miserable, unaesthetic, repetitive, puritanical work ethic sub-genre of climbing they're so addicted to, but actually mostly a nice and welcoming bunch. Being able to mix and match and share ropes and chat (blah blah polished crimp blah minging undercut blah blah polished knobble etc) with random strangers was a relaxed sociability I'd almost forgotten about.
  • Building patios - a bit naughty but oh so nice. Not talking about Hayward's "let's build decking structures the size of a Swedish chalet in a sensitive nature reserve and then make sure they're hidden in all the topo shots" at Fontainfawr, just common or garden reshuffling of ground level blocks and stones. It's the closest to gardening I come these days thank fuck and sometimes more fun than the climbing. I particularly enjoyed dismantling the patio beneath My Private Idaho (hard lineless eliminate) at Crafnant and rebuilding it beneath Riley's Arete (mid-grade classic prow) - redistribution of patio For The Many, Not The Few!
  • The amount of techy slopey weirdness indoor problems - generally because it means that walls are setting with half decent holds not the dismal old style Core and Holdz shite. But also they're quite fun and sometimes fat weak people with some outdoor nouse can do them.
  • Dogs at crags - far better than people at crags. Infinitely better than squawking kids (how did those idiots get their trio of rampantly shrill grubs down to Moat anyway??) Apart from that one Buster at Trollers, he was a bit of a dick.


CONS:

  • Alan James - gets his knickers in a twist because I post a polite but critical reply about the content of an article. Bans me on the basis that all I do is post negativity BUT SOMEHOW KEEPS THE OFFENDING POST UP - perhaps because it's got far more total likes/dislikes than the original article post AND has caused enough discussion for my name to crop of 41 times in the replies. Hope you're liking those page views, user engagement and advertiser views that my "ban-worthy but not censorship-worthy" (how the fuck does that work??) post was getting you. Then demands me to justify why I should be let back on the forum. Tell you what Alan, if you just apologise for your double standards and using my post to keep the discussion flowing whilst simultaneously banning me for it, I won't ask you to justify how you can get away with abusing forum moderation (I reviewed the UKC forum guidelines to know full well that I didn't contravene them) that much.
  • The amount of indoor wall boulderers around - cunts, the lot of them. I don't know what's worse, that they all got into it indoors and are all vacuous shallow gym bunnies who aspire to go to the Plantation or Almscliff and think that Malham is the epitome of adventurous roped climbing (and clearly don't know how to brush the fucking holds indoors nor out if they ever get there) or that because they all got into it indoors, they're all far far stronger than I'll ever be, regardless of age, gender, body shape or stupid floppy hipster haircuts. Arseholes.
  • Videos full of choppy editing and shoehorned slo-mo - I'm amazed this is still a thing, but apparently "unwatchabley annoying" is still an important ambition for today's budding Youtuber. What part of their brain thinks "I am filming this problem, and the movement looks really cool, so midway through I'll chop out random sections of the move and glue the rest together so it looks like my camera was malfunctioning, yes great idea. Maybe I'll slo-mo one hand slap out of the remaining 50% of unedited movement just to make it more jarring". Because I want to carve their fucking skulls open and burn out that part with acid until they actually use some fucking sense. Also special shout out for anyone doing a trailer for a po-faced pretentious bouldering film and then a teaser FOR THE SODDING TRAILER. You aren't making a $500 million Hollywood movie, get a grip.
  • The weather - two days of heatwave or occasional dryness followed by two weeks of pissing wank isn't weather, it's shit on a stick. Where the stick is also made out of shit.
  • The Climbing Hangar - One of the 3 out of 37 indoor walls that I've been to that enforces a strict shirt-on policy (presumably they don't allow girls just wearing sports bras either), and since the other two are council / general sports run, the only one apparently run by climbers, but clearly not for climbers who actually want to train, on a damp warm summer's day, by pulling hard. The reason behind the rule?? "It's just wall rules" Why?? "Because it's the wall rules".  OH JUST PISS THE FUCK OFF. Incidentally on the subject of how intimidating shirtless males must be, out of all the possible choices at The Boardroom (good wall, no stupid rules, go there instead), a dad and young daughter chose the shirtless meathead to ask to take a few photos of them in front of the wall. Oh the intimidation! Oh the horror! FFS.
  • Mundane shit VLogs - The great thing about the internet is anyone can make and share content. The terrible thing about the internet is anyone can make and share content. And yes that applies to climbing VLogs too. Climbing footage is fine, personal videos are great, but if you're going to wrap it up as some heavily commentated fucking "lifestyle" diary, it better be remotely interesting and exciting. The same old same old with a lot of filler and some fucking blethering shite into the camera - FFS get your snout off my screen, if I wanted talking heads I'd watch some TV chat show, I want to see cool climbing, not some over-hyped dross. Bonus anti-points if you're spamming it all over social media without the slightest though to it's relevance or value. 
  • Road cyclists - One of the main things putting me off moving down here. What's the point having 20,000 Peaks and Yorkshire crags on your doorstep if it takes all day to get there because you're stuck behind a flotilla of matching-logo lycra-clad cunts swarming like a cloud of road-based midges on their poncy fucking roadbikes that cost more than my Audi and weigh less than Paul B's toe, weaving around to ensure than any attempt to get past them and get to a crag in the same day you set off results in a head-on collision with a tractor and the self-righteous twats videoing it to smugly post on a Indignant Road Bikers 4 Justice 4 Ever facebook group. Thank fuck I can go the other way to Helsby or Wales. As for climbers who have partly given up and are focusing on road cycling more....don't get me started, there aren't enough swearwords (I'm running low already).
  • Bog - I moved down to Scotland to avoid this malignant entity*, and yet somehow it's floated down after me. Wankerish stuff. Particular fuck off to the bog that I trod in in my freshly re-proofed £35 Decathlon waterproof shoes over the ankle twice, so they filled with brown slurry and the waterproofing must have worked because it wouldn't drain out. (* actually the malignant entity I moved down to avoid was Scotland itself).
  • The lack of old school board-style indoor problems - Jesus fuck does EVERYTHING have to be techy slopey weirdness these days?? What if you actually want to train by pulling on holds and don't want success entirely dictated by hypothetical conditions in some grimey warehouse sweatbox, combined with a specific 3 minute window after setting when a hold has been chalked but before it's caked in gank, plus some bloody yoga-like flexibility and teetering on some random textured skin-scraping shelf. You can have too much of a good thing, try adding some actual holds FFS.
  • People missing off UKB - You know it's in a bad state when people actually start replying seriously to Mr ScrapeScroat's threads the poor buggers. Bring back Dense, Dave, Cofe, Scouse, Jasper, Sloper and several others, I miss their banter and discussions. I'd even tolerate the return of Slackbot as long as he didn't actually post anything.
  • People who don't go trad climbing - you're all disgraces. Do you think I want to be scraping lichen and moss off with my teeth, just because you're so lazy and cowardly that you'd rather be polishing up the Catwalk or burying Trackside under chalk ALL THE SODDING TIME instead of getting any variety and breadth in your climbing. I've been in away in Scotland for years and you slackers have let everything slide into the over-eroded vs neglected-and-filthy dichotomy. Rubbish.
  • Speed ""climbing"" - the biggest piece of turd in the history of colossal pieces of turd. It's scarcely worth my contempt - but it gets it anyway.


So there you go. Objective science. You read it here first.







Source: The state of climbing 2019. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 09, 2020, 08:16:50 am
Fuck off compiler, that was just somewhere to store the photo!!!
Title: fiendblogWinter Grit.....My Antisocial Way
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2020, 07:00:03 pm
Winter Grit.....My Antisocial Way




So that was the winter past and I did it my way, mostly antisocially. Although not entirely, sometimes I managed to outwit the Gapescrote plan to shiver my blubber off on prolonged belays on drizzle-blasted obscurities and actually get him to do something suitable for a grotty gale-ridden winter season, sometimes I met fellow obscurists and sometimes random people which worked particularly well at Scout Hut (I only walked in after driving through a sodden Widdop valley because I needed a piss and it turned out to be bewilderingly dry and another dude was reccing and his mates turned up with loads of pads, sometimes the luck goes my way).

Anyway even though I often spend the routes seasons begging around for partners, trying to get anyone interested in similar exploration and able to give off the right vibes for my tradding, when it comes to bouldering I seem to be quite happy on my own. Sure the occasional highball warrants and rewards a pad party of send train bellends, but for actually getting stuff done, the simplicity of my own schedule and pacing suits me well. Following inspirations with all focus and no distraction, and then the more sociable days out tend to feel fun in comparison.

So this is how it happened, lots of cool problems that might be quite familiar if you've been living 15 minutes away for the last decade, but I think are pretty explorative for someone who has been living 4 hours away for the last decade and has his first grit season in 10 years living locally. Even though the meteorological theme for this grit season was "wank on a stick", the relentless winds that brought in all the fucking rain also brought in some surprising drying speeds as well as making far eastern and tree-shrouded venues invaluable. So in the end, by a lot of forecast checking and venue divining, I got a decent amount done....







...and now it ends. Has the grit season ended? When did it end? What time is it? What day is it? Who the fuck knows. I still have my winter grit beard on because I don't know what to do with it.... Well it ended before I could really get to grips with many routes, before I could at least *try* to put reasonable grit bouldering momentum to test above runners instead of pads. Sobeit. I probably feel something about that but I'm not even sure what. So instead I can look back at the times above as a bit of a retrospective celebration.


Source: Winter Grit.....My Antisocial Way (http://)
Title: fiendblogFailure
Post by: comPiler on April 21, 2020, 07:00:04 pm
Failure


Theme tune for now (but without the uplifting twist)....



This was originally - a couple of months ago - going to be a blog post about struggling with the alarmingly familiar failure to get back into trad climbing after a successful and very consistent half-year bouldering campaign, along with with a suggestion that those who don't struggle with failure nor climbing psychology, or choose to do a climbing genre that is much less susceptible to it, might want to stop reading, and those who like to smugly rubberneck someone's struggles from their own superior abilities might want to fuck right off.

Since then, due to the coronavirus lockdown, it's more about contemplating failure on a more persistent level. There are many things that could be said about covid-19 and lockdowns, about the spirit of the law vs the letter of the law, the cure vs the disease, death vs disruption, about quality of life and it's inherent finiteness, about the realistic risks in socially distant activities, about social / emotional / physical costs, about blanket rules, about holier-than-thou judgementalism and turning on each other - I have no comment on any of them.

Instead this is about my climbing (again if this is inappropriate subject matter, find that Back button asap) and, of course, lack thereof. And failure, and the likelihood thereof. I don't know when the current situation will end, and I don't know what climbing state I will be after it (going into it, I was motivationally and physically good at least). I suspect when this.....confinement is over and at least some climbers are unleashed upon the crags, frothing like dogs on heat, imbued with the power of endless fingerboarding sessions and home-workouts straight off a billion fucking social media videos, with their topped up CV fitness from actually effective daily allowances of running and cycling, I will be crawling out on leaden legs and subdued psychology wondering if I can walk in to Stanage let alone do some HVSes there.

(Although that might all be academic given that this unprecedented and utterly farcical mega-drought will come to an end - quite possibly an exactly coincident end - at some point)

For a decade I have known that the climbing lifestyle is essential for me, not as a matter as of mere hedonistic pleasure, but as an overall level of activity that keeps me fit and healthy, keeps my entire body moving, and compensates for the limits of my 30%-venous-return legs. This is not some kneejerk reaction to justify why I need to be out (or in) climbing, as I wrote about this in one of my earliest blog posts whilst learning to cope with DVTs:

Every step I've taken, every length I've swum, every stretch I've done, every time I've sat in an awkward position with my legs up so they didn't swell, every time I've dilligently asked the doctors about what I can do to help my healing, every time I've rested when I didn't feel like it, every time I've been conscious to take care of myself, every little bit I've pushed to get my fitness back, it's been because there's something I want that fitness for - living a good life in general, and living a climbing lifestyle....which is pretty damn good ;). I make no claims of greatness, but I feel happy and proud to have this attitude and happy and proud that climbing is a big part of it.
Further, it is fairly essential to help alleviate my digestive issues (everyone I've consulted has highlighted the need to reduce overall stress, and climbing is a key de-stressor / meditative process, also the level of activity helps with my metabolism and appetite), AND to alleviate my long term psychological issues (it gives me something to live for and fight for, as alluded to above). Incidentally, yes I coped okay with several months off with a broken foot in 2005 - 15 years younger and pre-DVTs, and with several weeks off with mashed soft-tissue in 2017 - with lots of regular gym and upper-body-only wall visits. Different situations.

In the current situation I have been doing the best I can - running most days and longer gentle walks on "rest" days. And the usual fingerboarding shit although the best exercise with that was trying to drill the fucker in to solid tungsten pretending to be brick. The result of this regular CV exercise: very slowly worsening running (a tiny decrease but noticeable), achy legs, slightly sore lower back, general sluggishness. Past experience has proven to me that extended climbing periods or intermittent heavy gym sessions have noticeably improved my running and thus my fitness (even when I've been rarely doing it), whilst running itself hasn't. Strange? Yes. I have a strange body. This is NOT a matter of specific exercises nor will it be miraculously alleviated by doing fucking yoga nor burpees (clue: burpees are really leg-reliant). It's a matter of an overall active lifestyle that is currently "banned".

"Staying inside and painting marines" has proven to be damaging to my physical and mental health and this time is no exception. The effect on my climbing will be at least as detrimental - in recent years it's taken me at least the same amount of time as  the "time off" period to recover so I do not have high hopes this time.

Finally, some media from.....previously....









Source: Failure (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2020, 09:36:48 pm
I feel i should know, what are pic 2 & 3?
Title: fiendblogThat DVT Thing
Post by: comPiler on May 28, 2020, 01:00:13 pm
That DVT Thing


Recently I ranted on social media about the lockdown and running and fitness in the context of having DVTs, and a couple of people asked sensible questions so I thought I'd write a sensible and neutral-ish description of my DVT issue and how it affects me. This is based on my experience and some consultation with specialists, but there are various aspects that I don't know how they happen, I just know they do happen.

What do I have?

As per doctor's notes: "Extensive Bilateral Deep Vein Thrombosis of the Pelvic and Iliac veins". This means that the main veins returning from my legs are blocked around my groin / pelvis / upper leg area by blood clots (one of these measured on a MRI scan as 1cm x 3cm), and all the returning blood flow is taken up by smaller surrounding collateral veins (more on them later).

Why did it happen?

The root cause, determined after MANY tests when I was hospitalised in summer 2009 when the DVTs occurred, is slower lower limb venous return caused by a Congenital Aplasic Inferior Vena Cava. This means that the main vein in my chest, that returns from my lower body, never developed from birth (it disappears into "thready tissue" and reappears later). Again, the returning blood flow is taken up by collateral veins. The effect is that my lower body venous return has always been slow, and this allowed clots to form in otherwise innocuous circumstances (too much redpoint belaying? too much running? too little deadlifting? No-one knows the trigger, just the "bomb" waiting to go off). CAIVC is a very rare but known cause of DVTs.

Venous return:

The issue now, with stable clots that are unlikely to cause further damage, is simply one of venous return: Blood flows into my legs, gets de-oxygenated by muscle usage, and can't flow back up quickly enough to get re-oxygenated. Thus my legs get very tired from lack of oxygen, my heart gets very tired trying to pump blood around a slow moving system, and my lungs get very tired from trying to re-oxygenate the blood. So lower limb aerobic exercise is a LOT harder and more tiring for me. It's worth noting that I do recover fairly quickly during intra-exercise rests, especially reclined, as the blood has chance to flow back.

The motorway analogy:

The collateral veins are now doing the work around my pelvis AND around my non-IVC. But they're a lot smaller than the main veins (and in the pelvic area, they're mature veins and harder to re-develop). A good analogy: Take the main veins as motorways, with normal motorway traffic. The IVC motorway gets closed from birth, so traffic is quickly re-routed onto an adjacent A road (collateral). This is slower, but it's only just opened and is in open land, so it gets expanded to cope with this sudden new traffic flow - maybe to become a dual carriageway A road, taking a fair bit of traffic, but a 50mph limit and sodding average speed cameras, so it's still slower overall. A few decades later, the Pelvic / Iliac motorway also gets closed, but this time traffic can only be re-routed on an adjacent B road....and this single carriageway B road is in solid, immovable terrain, with little expansion potential. Maybe the verges get trimmed a bit more now it's got a motorway's worth of traffic chugging along it, but it's now really damn slow.

Can it be operated on?

2010's private consultation answer was: No, not justifiably. The clots start as a jelly-like mass, then solidify into scar-like tissue that fuses with the vein wall, so they can't just be "drilled out". It is theoretically possible to operate to do a venous bypass, but this was described as a "life threatening" operation and would only be considered if there were life (or maybe limb) threatening consequences of not operating. Despite the disadvantages, I am a (very?) high functioning DVT patient, so no, no-one would consider any operations.

Treatment?

Remain active, keep legs moving, elevate legs if needed, take anti-coagulants (to prevent further clotting), wear compression stockings (to encourage blood flow from lower legs - this seems a bit strange as they're not that tight, but yes they do work, after a few days exercise without them, I developed a blood blister rash on my calves).

What the issue actually affects:

Primary:

Lower limb aerobic exercise - this is the most noticeable effect, see elsewhere for a rough estimate as to how much. Running and walking uphill (especially with a rucsac) are problematic, as is cycling. I've gone from 45 minute road runs pre-DVTs to 15 minutes - and I now get DOMS from a 15 minute jog if I haven't done one for a while. Walking wise, I have to stop every several minutes on normal inclines, or every few minutes on steeper slopes. A good example: Walking into the Plantation with two small pads and a small sac, I can almost always get to the Plantation boulders okay, but getting to the crag above I'd need a rest mid-way. Or just before lockdown, I managed to walk into Stanage Popular End from the normal parking in one (slow) go, and that was notably good.

Standing up for long periods - generally gives me tired and achey legs with a swelling feel. Logic suggests this isn't good, so if I have to be still it's better to sit or lie.

Quick loss of fitness and mobility from inactivity - this is harder to explain, but it's very prominent. If I'm inactive (i.e. inactive apart from day to day walking, not "inactive" like Dave Mac running up Ben Nevis for his "rest day") for any sustained period of time (days rather than hours), my whole body, especially my legs, "slows down", I find it disproportionately hard to perform any physical activity, and it takes more and more exercise sessions to get moving normally again. I don't know the mechanics of this, I just know it happens, and it didn't before DVTs (and conversely, very regular exercise is a good buffer against this).

Secondary:
Constant weight gain due to difficulty doing conventional CV exercise which is almost always lower-limb based / biased.
Generally requiring more sleep - possibly due to more energy usage daily? Or the need to lie down to allow easier venous return?

What it doesn't affect:

It doesn't seem to affect: Leg strength (I've done numerous weight training PBs since) - climbing-wise this includes rockovers, but also falling off bouldering and cushioning the impact, long duration low level exercise (I can walk on the flat indefinitely), flexibility, walking downhill (no knee issues)  nor, as far as I can tell, injury susceptibility. It doesn't affect any functionality of my upper body. It doesn't seem to affect swimming (the lack of gravity against blood flow helps). It affects skiing a bit, but it's partly compensated there by leg strength, and in European resorts I get enough rest on seated lifts. It doesn't affect my capacity to travel or take flights, any issues there are alleviated by anti-coagulants, compression stockings, and regular movements.

A crude guesstimate of aerobic ability / venous return:

I don't know exactly how much/little blood flow return I now have from my lower legs. You could cut my torso / legs across like a tree trunk and work it out from the relative vein diameters. But other than that, I just rely on a running comparison: In 2008 I started running (to combat weight gain due to less climbing due to golfer's elbow). I'd never run before and I still had that niggling (but completely unknown) aplasic IVC slowing things down, so initially I could do 15 minutes or so, and worked up to doing 45 minute road runs - this was in Sheffield which is a lot hillier than Glasgow / Manchester! In 2009 I got the DVTs and in 2010 I started running again from scratch, starting with 10 mins and working up to doing....15 mins....sometimes. Occasionally I can do 20 mins if everything goes perfectly but really 15 mins is my maximum compared to 45 mins previously. So I make that 33% lower limb aerobic fitness (LLAF), maybe that means 33% venous return??

BUT this is 33% of my previous fitness, which was itself hampered by my non-IVC - maybe 75% of a normal persons? That would fit with how I've always relatively struggled with leg fitness exercises, and seems about right compared to my then peers. So it's actually 33% of 75%.....25% of a venously normal person's LLAF. Obviously this is is a very crude estimate. It could be pessimistic because I have an extra 10kg of weight to carry on runs these days, but it's more likely optimistic because I now have 10 years of sporadic running "training" instead of just one, and I've also been doing a lot more lower-limb strengthening exercises than previously, which have had a beneficial effect. Suffice to say it's a LOT less venous return than normal, and so far it's simply not possible to change that. 

The climbing lifestyle: working around the issue:

This is another area where I don't know all the mechanisms nor explanations, I just know the effects. In normal circumstances, I have a fairly consistent climbing lifestyle, with some days / etc out climbing, regular wall sessions, occasional gym sessions and occasional runs. This includes overall: bouldering, sport, trad, easy walking with a sack, harder walking with a sack, moving / scrambling around crags, indoor bouldering, jumping off lots, indoor routes, stamina circuits, a bit of hanging, low rep but heavy weights, core / antagonist work, some gym CV, and short runs.

What I have found, repeatedly and consistently, that a constant, regular level of "mixed" (and climbing days out are usually inherently mixed in themselves) activity has been very beneficial - to the point I have considered it ESSENTIAL in the context of my DVT issue for the last decade - and considerably more beneficial for lower-limb aerobic fitness than actually focusing more on LLAF (using running and up-hill walking as benchmarks). During times where I've been able to climb outside for more consecutive periods, generally I've done less lower-limb aerobic training (and naturally I've often avoided challenging walk-ins), and have found very clear improvements in my LLAF. At other times, I've avoided LLAF for a while and instead done a "heavy" gym session or two, I've then gone for a run fully expecting it to be dire after little running and heavier weights, and it's again been notably better.

Obviously this is not climbing lifestyle specific - it could be any lifestyle that involved "mixed" activity on a regular basis (surfing? gym bunny? kayaking?). And obviously this is somewhat problematic with situations like lockdown that prevent such a mixed approach.

So that's how living with DVTs functions for me, based on near 11 years of post-DVT experience. It's still an odd blend of functionalities, given that that the issue is "hidden" in a lot of circumstances / movements. The psychology of it is another issue, but in normal circumstances I usually spend 50% of the time ignoring it all, 25% of the time feeling angry and frustrated, and 25% of the time feeling happy and proud about what I've managed to do despite this issue (these percentages do change in relation to other health issues, weight and fitness, though). 


Source: That DVT Thing (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on May 28, 2020, 01:57:14 pm
That's brilliantly explained Matt. Clearly explains the mechanism of DVT and what it's like to live with, to those of us who have only a vague idea of what's involved.

Two thoughts occurred reading it - have you ever experimented with high-nitrate concentrated beetroot juice shots? For short-term blood vessel dilation while out climbing/walking/running. Not for long-term use (too expensive! And the effects apparently wear off with repeated use once the body adapts). I.e. the 400mg 'Beet It' shots.
E-bike for some approaches...?
 
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on May 28, 2020, 02:21:09 pm
I've gagged down a beet shot or two in the past, no idea if they actually work, but they taste utterly foul.

Fiend, if I don't mind you asking, I can't recall was here not some medication you were taking involved with developing this condition, and what do you need to take now.

Does it affect you exercising at altitude (skiing?) or have you not done enough lately to say?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on May 28, 2020, 02:40:35 pm
@Pete - thanks. Obviously it's a bit of a niche subject (!), but I usually just do a bit of moaning about this stuff, so I'm glad this essay is relatively clear.

Do I have to inject the beetroot or can I take it as a suppository? It's not something I've looked into, I'll think about it - could be useful before walk-ins (surviving them) or runs (longer distance, kill more calories). E-bikes, the catch is if an approach is bikeable it's usually not that bad for me to walk that bit. Binnien Shuas is the longest approach I've done but the bikeable bit was easy.


@SAChris - cheers, oh yeah good point beetroot is gross too! Medication I'm on apixaban for anti-coagulation, and a very low dose of citalopram - there was a minor concern in hospital that the cpram might be an issue but this was ruled out when the MRI found the non-IVC. I haven't noticed any particular effects at skiing altitude, I've only had one ski trip since DVTs but it was one of my best ever in Les Trois Vallees and given the prominence of seated lifts I didn't feel at all hampered (and one day I skiied all 3 including the highest points in each).
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Stabbsy on May 28, 2020, 04:48:27 pm
Worth taking a bit of care with the beetroot shots if you have digestion issues - they can do strange things to your guts. I used them a bit the year I raced the 3 Peaks, but tested them out on long runs beforehand to check they had no ill effects. Some people find they get an upset stomach or the runs.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Will Hunt on May 28, 2020, 05:27:00 pm
Worth taking a bit of care with the beetroot shots if you have digestion issues - they can do strange things to your guts. I used them a bit the year I raced the 3 Peaks, but tested them out on long runs beforehand to check they had no ill effects. Some people find they get an upset stomach or the runs.

Don't encourage him! I can just imagine walking along under a crag and seeing him up there on some choss, wearing nothing but a neon camo tank top, a river of effluent pouring out of him and splattering on the belayer's helmet below while GG Allin blares out of a little crag boom box. That would be sooo Fiend.



@fiend. Very interesting and well explained. Thanks.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on May 28, 2020, 05:59:13 pm
@Pete - thanks. Obviously it's a bit of a niche subject (!), but I usually just do a bit of moaning about this stuff, so I'm glad this essay is relatively clear.

Do I have to inject the beetroot or can I take it as a suppository? It's not something I've looked into, I'll think about it - could be useful before walk-ins (surviving them) or runs (longer distance, kill more calories).

Taste-wise they may as well be suppositories! The shots are these high-nitrate 400mg ones: https://www.cyclingweekly.com/reviews/energy-recovery-drink/beet-it-pro-elite-shot

Cheaper versions with a lower nitrate-content are available. The studies I've read suggest you need a relatively high nitrate content which you wouldn't get from eating loads of greens or drinking standard non-concentrated beetroot juice.
I've also read somewhere that the body down-regulates its own production of nitric oxide after around a week of supplementing with nitrate, which defeats the purpose of taking the shots long-term. So only useful for a short-term boost before activity.

There is plenty of good info on the evidence here: https://examine.com/supplements/nitrate/


 
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on May 28, 2020, 07:48:49 pm
Cheers, will research.

Will - I'm very discreet with my crag dumps I'll have you know!

Stabbsy - good warning, I've not been warned off beetroot in general. Although I did once eat a large bag of beetroot crisps and my crag dump was pure brick red the next day.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Duma on May 28, 2020, 10:15:08 pm
Good explanation Matt, interesting.
Title: fiendblogNotes To Self About Time Off
Post by: comPiler on June 20, 2020, 01:05:53 am
Notes To Self About Time Off


Lockdown finished, I went outside of the M60 ring road for the first time in nearly 8 weeks, and to warm back into climbing gently, I went to Cottage Rocks in The Churnet. It was a beautiful setting, glorious sunny but cool and breezy weather, the rock was in good condition. I did a few Font 5s. My skin lasted 5 problems, my motivation lasted 2. I felt depressed, apathetic and uninspired - and even less like a climber than I did during lockdown (i.e. not at all).

Coming out of it was in some ways worse than being in it - having "tactically" retreated into a semi-depressive rut of painting fucking space marines, and then having the abrupt opportunity to get back out and live my life again....was a bit like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot?? With a quick and shocking motion slamming into other cars and grinding to a halt.

My plan, wisely, had been to acknowledge that it would take me a long time to get any climbing prowess back, and to start gently and regularly to rebuild my ability and fitness, which was wise. I just hadn't anticipated the fallout of detaching myself from climbing mentally as well as physically. It was a fairly horrible experience feeling my climbing life was over. Each time it gets harder and harder to come back from illness, injury, depression, lockdowns, as I get heavier and heavier and older and less fit, and it honestly felt too much this time, that I couldn't do it any more...

BUT.

It didn't continue that badly. I kept things ridiculously slow and steady. Easy bouldering whenever possible for two weeks, easy sport climbing similarly for two weeks after. While some of my peers were cranking hard in the Dales and others were exploring hard on the Moors, I was mundanely plodding on - but it's worked. I'm feeling okay and I'm climbing at a decent level, with decent inspiration and motivation, in half the time I expected.

So while it's fresh in my mind, I'm writing some notes to see if I can avoid or alleviate that horrible transition period after a prolonged time off, should it happen again in whatever form:


During time off - physical:

Fingerboarding - I did this, it was useful, I could have done more, see below:

Barbell - get a barbell for warming up. Warming up for any form of training was a pain in the arse. Running just exhausted me, walking did fuck all for my upper body. A barbell for all over body movements (I find a very lightweight clean and jerk into overhead squat to be really effective in sets) would have got me into training more.

Skin care - do some general skin toughening regularly, and more towards the end. My skin / pulp ended up as soft tender mush after lockdown, and this was as inhibitive as any other physical aspect. I could alleviate this by some skin sanding and also finding some grotty grit rat slimpers to drape off, as well as more anti-hydral before the end.

Core - train core as regularly as fingers. My core also ended up as soft tender mush - I felt I could hold on to holds (skin pain aside), but do fuck all to get my (very heavy) lower body to move upwards. Since this is easy to train on a bar / TRX / (side)planks etc, it would be easy to incorporate.

Flexibility - always useful to train. I didn't have any noticeable issues with this, but it is definitely something that could and should be done in any non-climbing scenario.

Keep moving in general - I did this. Regular walks and regular runs. This was utterly crucial as if I don't move my legs enough and other clots form, it could be a risk of life-threatening surgery / limb loss / etc. But I think I focused on running too much, and while it is beneficial to help slow the decline in fitness during non-climbing periods, it's detrimental enough to my mental health that it would have been better to do it less often, and other training more often (barbell etc).

During time off - mental:

Be aware the period will end - whether it's 7.5 weeks of lockdown or 3 months of lower limb injury or several months of tennis elbows, it will be finite. The lockdown didn't seem finite as it was new or unknown, but my very nihilistic and fatalistic approach didn't acknowledge the potential end, so I retreated from climbing and mostly from any training motivation. If I keep in mind that it will end, I will climb again, and anything I do towards that end will be beneficial, training and coming out of it could be a lot easier.

Be aware that while there will be loss in some areas, there can be gains in others - I know I will lose fitness, endurance, and especially power to weight during non-climbing periods. And that will suck, and I'll have to fight to get it back. BUT I won't have to lose everything, because other areas will be trainable, and I can maintain an even standard or even improve in those areas, e.g. finger strength, core, flexibility etc. I did this already when I mashed my leg muscles in winter 2017 - I got into fingerboarding and campussing and upper body gym work, and noticed the benefits then. Coming out of these periods with some gains makes it easier for the rest to catch up.

Detach from the speculation and politics, but not from the inspiration - I think I did a sensible, self-preserving thing by avoiding online discussion of Covid-5G and the lockdown in general, but I think I went too far isolating myself from climbing inspiration overall (I even gave up watching Ondra's Youtube channel FFS). I could have struck a balance and maintained some interest in climbing and training, if not the "scene".

Structure time more around training and less around extra-curricular activities - Again, I focused a bit too much on painting fucking space marines. A key evening structure was the fantastic PRSPCT Quaranstreams which genuinely brought a bit of fun to the lockdown, and signalled my painting time for the evening. This might have been better to signal my training hard time, especially given the quality musical content. Similarly painting goals "finish this Orc over this weekend" should have played a secondary roll to "Improve my hanging PB this weekend".


After time off:

Have the lowest possible expectations - mine were astonishingly low in terms of climbing performance, but clearly not low enough. The second time I went out, I readjusted my expectations to "don't have as miserable a time as last time", and that actually worked.

Focus on movement - this is one thing that can be done, and can be pleasurable, irrespective of other performance factors or lack thereof. Playing around on rocks (or plastic), revising the engrams, keeping the body in motion, loosening up to climbing movement. I did some of this but it could have been a more beneficial focus.

Start very easily and build up very gently - I did this. It worked.

Keep in mind that performance will return - my estimate was based on previous experience of taking time off climbing, i.e. it takes at least the same amount of regular climbing time as the time off to regain full performance. It was definitely quicker in this case, closer to 3.5 weeks than the expected 7.5 weeks. I suspect this is due to it not being injury / illness based, going into lockdown with decent climbing strength, and a bit of the training. Regardless, it is something positive I must keep in mind during the off-putting early days out.

Have numerous Plan Bs to take into account weather etc - by some utter and incomprehensible miracle, the desiccating 11 week ultra-drought through the entirety of lockdown didn't actually end exactly when lockdown ended, but continued for a merciful 3 further weeks. But if it hadn't? And there was another period with walls and gyms closed?? Sheltered, rainproof crags - even if that meant just doing single easy-ish moves on a top-rope at Max Buttress or lapping the same eliminate traverse at Frodsham or some bullshit like that. Always have a Plan B with UK climbing....



Source: Notes To Self About Time Off (http://)
Title: fiendblogThat Digestion Thing
Post by: comPiler on July 19, 2020, 01:00:19 pm
That Digestion Thing


Recently I wrote a sensible and neutral-ish description of my DVT issue and how it affects me. I'm now doing the same for the digestive disorder I have because although it is on paper a much less serious issue, it actually affects me and especially my mindstate a lot more regularly and prominently. This is probably even less interesting than the DVTs and I'm writing it partly to clear my head a bit.

What do I have?

Some form of chronic-but-subsiding gastroenteritis. Since the workings of the digestion are a bit mysterious it's only really describable in general terms, such as a gastroenterologist's diagnosis of "Post Viral IBS Of The Upper Digestive Tract" (different to food-sensitive diarrhoea / constipation-prone IBS of the lower digestive tract). Perhaps more pertinent is a stool test result that shows the disorder manifesting as: some inflammation, some difficulty digesting fats, and a lot of bacterial imbalance - this may well be equivalent to SIBO (small intestinal bacterial overgrowth) Blood tests and an endoscopy have shown nothing significant. The crude bicarbonate of soda stomach acid test has indicated I have greatly reduced stomach acid.

Why did it happen?

In 2017 I fell off a route on gritstone and bashed up the side of my leg (no break, just a lot of soft-tissue / muscle damage). I went to Macclesfield A&E for an x-ray, I was careless with my hand hygiene (in particular a minimal rinsing of my fingers after going to the loo, just before eating a pack of nuts), and contracted some form of acute gastroenteritis, probably norovirus. This was an utterly horrendous experience in itself: BUT, my leg was already very swollen, and logically my body was putting all it's healing resources into that mild-but-large trauma, and thus not into healing my gut damage from the norovirus (especially with a few days living off a few hundred calories). So, my gut never healed (in comparison to my partner who caught the norovirus off me, was even more acutely ill, but recovered in a week or so).

What are the symptoms?

Primary
General queasiness - most of the time I feel a little bit mildly nauseous. Not much, but I never really feel 100% (and the few times I do, it's very noticeable how different and "clear" it feels).

Prominent queasiness when hungry - the feeling increases if I haven't eaten enough nor regularly enough (especially after coffee). Instead of just feeling hungry, I can end up feeling quite sick but still having to eat. This is completely different to previously when my digestion was *very* tolerant of long periods of not eating.

Regular indigestion after larger meals - including slightly more queasiness, bloating, and lots of gurgling (the latter okay in itself but not so okay in combination). This includes larger meals as in a normal / smallish evening meal, again this is very different to previously when I could eat massive meals and only feel "stuffed".

Sporadic nausea bouts - these are thankfully getting more sporadic, but are really grim for me when they happen. Often in the middle of the night, constant nausea that I can't sleep through (i.e. feeling too sick to drink water or clean my teeth), followed by at least a day of feeling wasted and only able to eat a tiny amount of bland food. In the early days these were happening every few weeks without fail, thankfully they're much less these days.

Secondary
Low energy - as it says. I don't have as much energy, I'm physically and mentally more tired, and run out of energy quicker in a day (despite healthy balanced regular snacking).

Increased weight gain - no, I'm not sure how the fuck this works either. I'm eating much more healthily, more "little and often" style, much less carb-based etc (see below), and I'm putting on weight quicker than previously. My best guess is a combination of possibly eating a little bit more (because I have to keep eating to stop the hunger-queasiness), and my digestion being worse at processing food (it seems to be processing into fat rather than into energy??).

Lower moods - I've put this in "Secondary" but it has been a massive factor at certain points!! As an example, June 2018 I travelled to the Peaks for The Seaside premier after a nausea bout, with the worst depression I'd had for over a decade - I felt like a hollow shell, a zombie shambling around pretending to be Fiend on the outside, with nothing on the inside. There's a few aspects to this: Firstly I'm mildly emetophobic, so the queasiness and nausea really creeps me out - yes this sucks, yes I'd rather have a lower digestive tract based disorder! Or none at all. Secondly there's a lot made of the gut-brain axis and the vagus nerve connecting them, and for me the nausea bouts result in subsequent bouts  of sadness (like actual sorrow, rather than the bleakness of depression afterwards). Thirdly the mild or occasionally prominent debilitation of the queasiness is a constant distraction and inhibition that just gets me down. As I've written previously, I don't feel like a shadow of my former self, but I sometimes feel like a monochrome version.

What it doesn't affect:
No excrementary disorder - okay I shit like a fucking cow but am pretty regular and generally have little diarrhoea and no constipation.
No actual vomiting - thank fuck.
No particular triggering due to particular foods - my cooking is quite spicy and flavoured, and occasionally I'll have a curry treat, and there's generally little response unless I eat too much (or pulses, which give me gas).

Treatment?
The general treatment after consultation with several different specialists / nutritionists is: A restricted diet to reduce stress / work for the gut, combined with better nutrition and digestive supplements.
Diet: greatly reduced: wheat, gluten, dairy (some main stressors for digestion), processed foods, excess sugar, alcohol, pulses (the latter mostly to avoid bloating / gas).
Increased: lean proteins, leafy greens, berry fruits, oats.
Supplements: pro-biotics, pre-biotics, omega oils, l-glutamine (strengthen small intestine lining), gi-sol (attempting to crowd out excess bacteria), ox bile (assists fat digestion), digestive enzymes with HCL (I accidentally had one of these break whilst dry swallowing and yes fuck me they definitely have some acid in them!!)

Is this all helping?? I don't know. Find me the control Fiend who can still eat pizza and have a pastry-based breakfast, not eat for 8 hours, have a massive evening meal and still feel fine, and compare us?? The treatments make logical sense and mostly correlate with each other and, despite being sometimes infuriating and expensive, are manageable. I am slowly getting better, but I have no idea if I'd be getting better regardless or whether I'd still be significantly ill without any of the changes. It's taking fucking ages but the more I look into it, the more complex and obscure the digestion is - and you can't just isolate it and give it a rest like you would with a broken limb. Fixing the digestion is like trying to fix a car engine.....whilst you're still constantly driving.

Symptomatic alleviation with: Prochlorperazine (this stuff is a fucking miracle and the only thing that can touch the nausea bouts), ginger (helps a little bit with queasiness), heat pack on torso (reclining with one of these and some ginger when I have indigestion does help a bit).

The climbing lifestyle: impinged by the issue:

See the secondary effects above - these quite clearly impact on me as a climber. Being heavy and tired and depressed isn't great. Neither are the nausea bouts and although they're sporadic they can still fuck things up: As an example, I was in North Wales bouldering in early October, staying in a charming and thankfully mostly empty mini-hostel in Blaenau. The first day out I felt a bit queasy in the day due to hunger. I had an okay evening meal, went to bed, and woke about 2-ish feeling really sick.  Took two prochloroperazine, but even with those and a middle-of-the-night shit, ended up propped up in bed drifting in and out of nausea until I finally got to sleep about 5-ish. Somehow I managed to summon enough energy for a bit of bouldering the next day, had a very mild and early evening meal, went to bed and had a second nausea bout and didn't get to sleep till past 2.... Distinctly sub-optimal.

There's a few subtleties too: It's harder to feel motivated and fired up and to visual climbing because I've realised that a lot of that comes from feeling strong all over, and a lot of that comes from the core. Imagine pulling any sort of hard move....it will almost always involve some power through the core. Now imagine sitting in a car heading out somewhere, trying to get psyched by visualising those hard moves....and when it comes to the core it's all just wobbly and delicate and out-of-sorts - it's surprising how inhibitive it is!

Logistically it's harder to plan things and be a reliable partner (although I've only had to let people down a few times), it takes me a lot longer to get going and feel ready for action, it's harder to get easy snacking and nutrition out and about in climbing areas, I have to pay more attention to eating and also comfortable accommodation. I'm becoming even more of a fussy fanny, not through choice but necessity.

As I say, things are improving over time. I had hoped to eat a celebratory pizza in November 2018 because surely I'd feel better enough then. That was pushed back to 2019. Now it's pushed back to 2020....I've forgotten what fucking pizza tastes like now!!

Anyway, next time - I talk about climbing, and choss :).



Source: That Digestion Thing (http://)
Title: fiendblogLime Time
Post by: comPiler on July 22, 2020, 01:02:20 am
Lime Time


So, I come out of lockdown, woefully unfit and weak, in desperate need of training, and the bloody climbing walls are closed. So what's the next best option?? Well, UK inland limestone is only marginally worse than climbing indoors, and desperate times call for desperate measures... I've sat on bolts, I've sat on pads, I've sat on my wee camping stool and very occasionally I've sat on top of a crag or at the chains of a sport route, all in the company of the usual polished knobbly blotchy choss or tottering dusty quarried choss. Still the dales are lovely once you're not battling through nettles to reach vertical turf sandbag trad that hasn't been climbed since the 80s and the quarries are tolerable if you ignore the surroundings and just focus on the lone 10% of vaguely aesthetic rock in front of your face. So in celebration of this, and in no order whatsoever, here's a Top Ten of the least worst limestone I've done recently:

Lady Of Satan, Avon Gorge
In complete contrast to the rest of the list, this off-piste gem on Avon Gorges' Leigh Wood's Quarry 5's Red Wall was straight out of Gogarth's Red Wall, and thus automatically excellent. An inland adventure featuring ledge-shuffling at it's finest - easy, unnerving, and life-affirming. This brought a grin to my face and definitely cleared some of the sterile bolt-clipping cobwebs away.

Supercalorific, Torbay
I didn't think that a snatched day out burning off the long drive aches and stiffness on an "in-law" visit to Sidmouth would involve doing the best F6a+ in the UK, but there we go. An immaculate sheet of flowstone with constant technicalites and variety.

Paranoid Eyes, Low Stony Bank
Just slightly easier than the "2 grades easier" battle of Visionhurry to the left, this was the most enjoyable pitch during a long and long overdue mileage day at the Stony Banks. A lovely location in a discreet river valley above Gordale, and one of the many recent throbbing hotspots of relentless unconsulted blanket retro-bolting of Yorkshire trad routes. Still, some of the older (retroed?) lines are pretty nice especially this triple-crux line that was never desperate but always interesting.

Short Problem, Blackwell Dale
Recced after an unproductive visit to the "Cucket Delf for the 7C" climber shit-pit that is Lee's Bottom, which mostly involved discovering that 7C climbers can't grade """6C""" problems for shit. SP seemed a much more feasible proposition, so the only option was to come back fresher, and of course in the pissing rain, which often makes lime grot more satisfying. A cool, distinctive problem for easier lime, given it has an obvious start and finish and independent climbing.

The Pinch, Pleasley Vale
Another "conditions snatching" trip at a fresh and bone dry Pleasley whilst it was honking down across The Peaks. Did a bit of trad which mostly involved soloing highball boulder problems then fiddling in a couple of small cams for "scrambling remains" finish, then got involved with this semi-classic reachy burlfest and somehow managed to get it after a proper fight.

Coming Up For Air, Moat Buttress
At it's correct grade of F7b+ of course - slightly easier than Garderobe which I also did and is objectively better, but CUFA felt more enjoyable to me as it was my first redpoint of the season. I'd lowered down Moat People after flashing Moat Afloat, but the flakes and gastons of CUFA kept catching my eye so I gave it a go, found the moves suited me, and got quite excited. The highlight was actually my first redpoint attempt, getting to the final teetery rockover, being a bit unsettled, and blowing it - taking a good fall and realising how close I was, were both as satisfying as when I actually did it.

Helicon, Stoney Middleton
Slowly easing back into trad although this one isn't that easy! A super-direct line apart from the gorse cornice shuffle at the top, with 3 cruxes and plenty of interest, well worth the wee scramble to get there. I'm hoping to gradually work my way through more Stoney trad as a useful mileage location.

The Calcspa, Slaley Brook
A typical oasis of calm rock in a maelstorm of swirling rubble - really surprisingly pleasant. This I think is the line of the craglet, genuinely pleasant and amenable climbing up strong calcite flowstone features.

Aperta, Hidden Quarry
The first of two nu-school classics opposite the old-skool sport misery that is Horseshoe. I had a great day getting back into things here with ron-hill-dark-horse mark20, and this route with it's two distinct cruxes, one delicate and the other reachy and cranky, was the highlight.

This Is Not A Drill, Dalton Quarry
And the second nu-school quarried classic, this time the sheet of rock is even more elegant on it's own and the surroundings of tottering rubble are even more disturbing. But on this route after a very cranky, committing crux you can motor to a tiny rest niche and turn around and just stand there and admire the sun-blasted view of desolation whilst relaxing for a gently burly finish. My favourite rest ledge so far....

In summary:

Stony Bank. Idyllic.


Short Problem. Less idyllic, but fun.


Source: Lime Time (http://)
Title: fiendblog777
Post by: comPiler on August 06, 2020, 01:00:06 pm
777


As a change from grotty Peak lime, I was out for some grotty Clwyd lime (what it lacks in vegetation, it makes up for with in looseness) with mr Andy F the other day, and it was a 777 kind of day. After a warm-up, with both did What's Going On F7a */**/*** which was delightful steep slab climbing that suited my trad bumbling, Atmospheres F7a *** which was an antithesical battle through hanging overlaps (Andy at the belay: "I've been brutalised!") and good training for trad bumbling with both the style and a leg-pumping essential rest, and finally Prickly Heat F7a+ ** (conclusion: 3 hard 7a sections back to back with one shakeout adds up to more than 7a!) which Andy put the draws in and I somehow flashed via an absolute battle that has little to do with my trad bumbling except that if I could put that much determination in on trad I might actually get somewhere.

Anyway What's Going On was both the easiest and most enjoyable, just a lovely style of climbing, engaging but not stressful, exposed but not scary, and apparently "better than almost all 7as in the Peak". Which it might well be. But then again there are a lot of good / well-reputed 7as in the Peak, so what could be more suitable / boring / anally retentive than list most of them....


Done:
Exo6, Masson Lees? - was 7a when I did it. Remember it being heavily glued.
Hilti Sound System, Masson Lees - also heavily glued etc. Dunno if Masson counts as proper outdoor climbing?
Tucker's Grave, Intake Quarry?  - again 7a when I did it and can't remember fuck all.
This Is Not A Drill, Darlton Quarry - much better than a lone star, intense crux and nice finish.
Aperta, Hidden Quarry - ditto, nice wall with a balancy first crux and a cool go-for-it finish
Scratch Race, Plum Buttress - also underrated, cool boulder problem and very photogenic
Cairn, Harpur Hill - obvious, but it is that good
Lies And Deception, Smalldale - only one star but makes the list for quality.

Want to do:
Straight Jacket, Wildcat - no idea but worth an explore
Handy Wallhole, Dale Quarry - need to do this with slab ninja Coel
Supercrack, Lorry Park Quarry - keep putting it off but will get there one day
Too Monsterosity, Slaley Brook - went once but got distracted by Marble Wall
Fuck Your Gods, Masson Lees - when I've got over my masson tantrums
I Hate You, Stoney - great name, I've had good experiences of Stoney sport.
Demolition Man, Horseshoe - one for a nice winter's day?
An Ancient Rhythm, Horseshoe - ditto
Lead Vein Thrombosis Deep Rake - gotta do this just for the name
Red Mist, Goddard's Wall - no idea if it's good but 1 star 7as around these parts usually are!
Rubicon, Water-cum-jolly - put it off for 15 years....maybe I will be strong enough soon?
Max Head Room, Max Buttress - max routes are pokey
Up The River, The Cornice - almost dry enough the other day
Clarion Call, The Cornice - still putting this off, or getting distracted
White Gold, Chee Tor - one for a fresh bone dry day as a warm-up for the trad?
Go Cat, Dog's Dinner Buttress - just for the name!
Case Adjourned, Two Tier - obvious
Darl, Two Tier - lovely spot
Quality Control, Two Tier - this too
Monkey Magic, Cowdale - probably nails but worth a shot
The Prophecy, Harpur Hill - will get around to it at some point
First Offence, Smalldale - ditto    
Can Boys, Smalldale - ditto

Attempted:
Long Black Veil, Masson Lees - blew the final move inches from success. massive tourettestantrum
Une Crime Passionel, The Cornice - now 7a due to hold loss in upper groove. was close. nails but cool start.
Armistice Day, The Cornice - 7a+ in reality so not bothered, especially since I don't fit the kneebar.


The conclusion being.... I really don't have enough experience to make any judgements about it. Not that should stop me normally, but maybe since I'm kinda getting used to inland lime, I should try to tackle some of these this year. Perhaps 7 of them...



Source: 777 (http://)
Title: fiendblogDropping...
Post by: comPiler on August 21, 2020, 01:05:30 am
Dropping...

 
So last week I felt like I'd regained my fitness and strength and was climbing as good as I have in recent years - on sport onsighting and redpointing at least, I hadn't put it into practise on challenging trad, but I'd even got enough confidence back to be ready to do so. Not only that, I felt generally fit and good (digestion aside), and notably had walked out of Chee Dale to both Wormhill and Topley Pike without resting - almost as rewarding as the climbing, feeling that my body had re-adapted to regular usage and activity.

This week I can still walk, slowly, in a straight line. And that's pretty much it. I can't run, I can't boulder, I can't fall off, I can't do any sudden movements, I can't twist my leg, and I can't climb at any more than 30% capability (which feels more like 60% challenge as I've got to hang on every single move and test every single left foot placement to make sure it's safe and not going to aggravate my left leg). And I probably couldn't dance to gabber either, even if clubs were open.

What I've done is tweaked my MCL (the stabilising ligament on the inner side of the knee) on my left leg, doing a deep drop knee move. Or more specifically, doing a deep drop knee move that I'd never done before, which is the crux of a route right at my very limit, and in particularly doing it in poor conditions which forced me to try too hard as I was slipping off a handhold, and twist the drop knee far deeper than it should have been and far beyond what was safe. It is hopefully a relatively minor tweak, as there just a mild twinge - an unusual warning sign which caused me to drop off immediately - and no sharp pain, no pop, no sudden loss of stability, and no noticeable swelling. Nevertheless, it is definitely injured and inhibitive as above (and any inwards motion, especially with a bent leg, is definitely painful), and will take plentiful rest, rehab, and avoiding relaxed climbing motions.

I could write about the usual bollox this entails: how gutting it is to go so abruptly from good climbing fitness to hobbling around again, how particularly gutting that is after fighting to get that fitness back after lockdown, how even more gutting it is as I'm coming into potentially prime late summer / early autumn trad season (Red Walls and Range South unbanned etc) rather than coming into a dank winter, about how, despite what people say, I *WILL* lose fitness and strength that quickly (reading DMac's Make Or Break, there is some acknowledgement of this: "It is well understood that training gains in muscles strength and endurance are reversible, and that the losses of tissue status begin within a few days of ceasing training" // "Climbers tend to underestimate the effect of even a week of de-training on your ability to absorb hard physical work"). So far so dull.

Instead there's one issue I want to write about that isn't actually an issue. In the depressive state this sort of "emergency stop" injury brings on, it would be easy to lament "I can't try hard in climbing, I can't push myself too hard, my body can't take it, if I'm getting near the top of my game I'm just going to crash out again". Thankfully, this one worry isn't actually true (although it can happen that way).

In this case, my body was coping with and adapting to the demands of regularly fighting hard pretty well, and what went wrong was an outlier:

1. Drop knees are a risky move. Apparently so. I've heard rumours about them. Referring back to MOB: "Drop knees....are the most dangerous movements on rock" // "Drop knees....are used comparatively infrequently, yet demand large forces when they are used" // "Moves where you drop the knee and then move the hand all in one rapid motion may be particularly risky for knee ligaments" // "Possibly the most important preventative measure of knee injuries in climbing is awareness and concentration during dangerous moves such as drop knees."

2. I've never done proper drop knees before. I've done egyptians, sure. But never a proper drop knee where you dip the knee right down. If I have it was very brief and I can't remember it and I certainly haven't used one to try hard. I tend to climb either a bit more flaggy, or a bit more front on and squatty and rock-overy which suits my heavy but relatively un-weak thighs. So I have little experience in the technique and no whatsoever in the limits and risks. 

3. I was pushing too hard and losing judgement in poor conditions. I was, somewhat shamefully, getting a bit desperate for "the tick" and "getting the route done". Sure I was still enjoying the experience of the climbing and of trying it, but part of me was getting a bit obsessed and wanting to get it "out of the way". Shallow motivation that is easily aligned with a weak state of mind, including ignoring the increased difficulty due to poor conditions and still persisting to try to get that possibly unsuitably distant end result.

4. I may be more susceptible due to lack of gym training. According to the physio, the cruciate ligaments are the primary stabilisers in the knee joint, whilst the joining muscles are secondary supportive stabilisers. I don't know if regular gym work helps strengthen ligaments although it might well stimulate them, but the sort I do (short sets of heavier leg work) definitely strengthen the muscles and certainly tests knee stability on squats. I haven't been to the gym for 5 months (the longest period I can remember) due to the lockdown and gym closures and this might have been a problem.

5. So the cause was pretty much ignorance and susceptibility on a risky move. And that is both something that's not a particular problem with my body nor climbing, and something that I can learn from and be aware of. If I'd had a heel-toe in on a similar move in similar conditions, I'd have probably sacked that session off already due to the risk of ankle amputation - because I know the risks. Same with a high heel-hook. If I'd had to do a slap or lunge on a similar move in similar conditions, I'd have probably been fine as the consequences would have been a flapper or something minor. 

So now that's out of the way, what now??

Rest. Rehab. All the physio theraband / wobble board / straight leg etc exercises. Try to strengthen the ligament and the muscles. Avoid re-injury. Train my upper body as hard as possible whilst also avoiding injury. Gently experiment to see what climbing might be possible as I start to recover (my gut instinct is that the ledgiest and shuffliest ledge-shuffles of Anglesey and the Lleyn might be the best as the nature of the terrain not only rarely requires excessive exertion through the holds, in some ways it actively discourages it - whilst at the same time providing enough beauty, inspiration and fun to nourish my soul). Remain diligent. Remain open to possibilities. If recovered enough, try to extend the routes "away season" into autumn as far as the weather allows, and similarly try to start it as early as possible in spring, taking advantages of available sun-traps. 


Source: Dropping... (http://)
Title: Re: fiendblogDropping...
Post by: moose on August 21, 2020, 11:27:36 am
....despite what people say, I *WILL* lose fitness and strength that quickly reading DMac's Make Or Break there is some acknowledgement of this: "It is well understood that training gains in muscles strength and endurance are reversible, and that the losses of tissue status begin within a few days of ceasing training" // "Climbers tend to underestimate the effect of even a week of de-training on your ability to absorb hard physical work"). So far so dull

There is hope that it might not be so deleterious... I posted this a few months ago:

The new Ross Tucker Science of Sports podcast might be interesting listening for those concerned about a loss of form during lockdown.

https://podcasts.google.com/?feed=aHR0cHM6Ly9yc3MuYWNhc3QuY29tL3JlYWxzY2llbmNlb2ZzcG9ydA&episode=NTdkMGJiZDAtYzUwNi00M2Y0LWI5YWEtOGMxNzA0MmJhNjQ4&ved=0CAcQ38oDahcKEwj4lvDCoeboAhUAAAAAHQAAAAAQBQ&hl=en-GB

The TLDListen version is that doing nothing for weeks results in a significant loss of capability but even a small amount of training (15-20% of "normal") hugely mitigates / eliminates any deterioration, and the "little goes a long way" effect is greatest for old-timers whose level is more deeply engrained.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: duncan on August 21, 2020, 11:55:28 am
1-4. are good self-analysis but don’t beat yourself up about 3.  Nothing wrong with being keen. It follows you should be trying to get back to your gym exercises - ie low-rep./high load squats, or similar - as soon as possible. Do you have weights at home you can use if you can’t get to a gym? Therabands/straight leg work and wobble boards are useful for early stage rehab. but don’t offer the load or specificity you need. You should be working up to putting more than your body weight through a flexed (bent) knee.

‘Front pointing’ up trad. routes is  a good way back in to climbing as you say.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on August 21, 2020, 01:32:08 pm
Thanks guys.

Moose: good use of the word deleterious! I will check out the podcast. I have personally found that unlike some people (including a couple of people on here who mentioned they can often do a solitary fingerboard session in a week off and maintain form), I start to de-train pretty rapidly and conclusively - probably metabolism / weight / legs / lack of supporting CV fitness etc. Conversely once I'm at full steam I tend to respond well to multiple days on. Despite some fingerboarding and regular walking / running during lockdown, I felt like I had a huge drop in form (admittedly it only took 4-5 weeks to get back up to reasonable capability, rather than the 7-8 I expected). I'm definitely going to keep training tho...

Duncan: Thanks for a good post. I'm not beating myself up too much about 3. - or even at all for that matter. But it was definitely a contributing factor, I was already feeling myself getting disproportionately obsessed in a very very pale shadow of the puritanical Oak-style masochism which didn't sit comfortably with me, and this was one of the factors.

I will try heavier gym work (with strict form!) sooner rather than later - will those benefit in general stimulation and re-strengthening the supporting muscles, rather than stressing the MCL?? Initially I've just been focused on what the physio suggested, i.e. working the MCL-stressing inwards motion in a very gentle way.

I've been on the Depot circuit boards a couple of times, just traversing along the bottom, and I've found having a large matrix of decent small footholds (not FFH) has made it very easy to avoid any twisting / dragging / outside edging, and haven't felt any pain traversing back and forth along the bottom (although a few times I've had to abort moves as I'm unsure about the motion). Getting back to pure "kicking steps" style trad would be idea :D
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: duncan on August 21, 2020, 07:48:15 pm
I will try heavier gym work (with strict form!) sooner rather than later - will those benefit in general stimulation and re-strengthening the supporting muscles, rather than stressing the MCL?? Initially I've just been focused on what the physio suggested, i.e. working the MCL-stressing inwards motion in a very gentle way.

Joint stability is determined by a combination of both ligament and muscle function as your physio. said.  Strengthening the muscles will improve joint stability and make you less injury-prone: it's not a complete surprise your knee was more vulnerable after 5 months of not going to the gym. Squats or similar might help the ligament a little too but this is more speculative: a work colleague had some interesting preliminary findings suggesting anterior cruciate ligaments became tighter after a knee rehab. programme. My august institution sacked him and don't think he was able to take the work further.

You don't have an unstable knee but it's possible to compensate to a surprising degree for lost of ligament function by developing well functioning leg muscles. I have no functioning posterior cruciate in my left knee and my brother-in-law has no anterior cruciate. We are both pretty active and are not let down by our knees.


I've been on the Depot circuit boards a couple of times, just traversing along the bottom, and I've found having a large matrix of decent small footholds (not FFH) has made it very easy to avoid any twisting / dragging / outside edging, and haven't felt any pain traversing back and forth along the bottom (although a few times I've had to abort moves as I'm unsure about the motion). Getting back to pure "kicking steps" style trad would be idea :D

Perfect.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: moose on August 21, 2020, 09:28:01 pm
Thanks guys.

Moose: good use of the word deleterious! I will check out the podcast. I have personally found that unlike some people (including a couple of people on here who mentioned they can often do a solitary fingerboard session in a week off and maintain form), I start to de-train pretty rapidly and conclusively - probably metabolism / weight / legs / lack of supporting CV fitness etc.

I might be one of the lucky ones then - I just did bodyweight exercises and finger-boarded for the 8-9 weeks of "strict" lockdown but recovered reasonably quickly afterwards.  I climbed like bad stop-motion animation for 2-3 weeks but managed the low level boulder traverse I was trying last year when you last saw me at Kilnsey soon afterwards. I think / hope you might surprise yourself - so much of climbing improvement for me is "neurological gains".  E.g. a bit of fingerboarding results in improvements that are far too rapid to be due to stronger tendons - I'm probably just convincing my brain that I can pull that hard.  Perhaps similar applies with you - you will feel weak and detrained but it's more that you're not used to the load you're actually still physically capable of - keep with the rehab and a responsible level of effort and you will not decline too much.
Title: Re: fiendblogDropping...
Post by: Fiend on August 25, 2020, 05:49:12 pm
The TLDListen version is that doing nothing for weeks results in a significant loss of capability but even a small amount of training (15-20% of "normal") hugely mitigates / eliminates any deterioration, and the "little goes a long way" effect is greatest for old-timers whose level is more deeply engrained.
Well let's bloody hope this is true because I've also got golfer's elbow reappearing (in the other elbow to whence I had it previously) - exactly what I don't need right now when all I can sensibly do is train - so 15-20% is about the absolute bloody max I can do.

Moan moan moan. My own stupid fault, deadhanging after a slothful day (last Sunday) without properly warming up, ignoring discomfort, and also doing some quite anti-elbow exercises at my first gym session. Fuck off to it.
Title: fiendblogCan / Can't
Post by: comPiler on September 01, 2020, 07:00:28 pm
Can / Can't

Things you CAN do whilst recovering from a torn MCL:

  • Fingerboarding
  • Campussing
  • Intense upper body work
  • Intense low-level traversing
  • Systems board training without going too high

Things you CAN do whilst recovering from golfer's elbow:

  • Hard slabs / vertical walls
  • Thrutchy routes with a focus on legwork
  • Run-out routes with good fall potential
  • Falling practise in general
  • Running and similar lower-limb fitness

Things you CAN'T do whilst recovering from golfer's elbow:

  • Fingerboarding
  • Campussing
  • Intense upper body work
  • Intense low-level traversing
  • Systems board training without going too high

Things you CAN'T do whilst recovering from a torn MCL:

  • Hard slabs / vertical walls
  • Thrutchy routes with a focus on legwork
  • Run-out routes with good fall potential
  • Falling practise in general
  • Running and similar lower-limb fitness


Hmmmm.....

So yeah I was heeding the DMac advice "If you come out of a lower limb injury without getting stronger, then it's been a wasted opportunity" (more like "If you come out of a lower limb injury without sinking into a pit of slothful, comfort eating, nihilistic depression.....then well done" - I think the first quote was in the era when DMac wrongly assumed that all other climbers, irrespective of grade, had his robotic dedication to training and militant self-discipline). At any rate I was motivated to try to maintain some of the strength and fitness that I'd clawed back since the end of lockdown, and thus jumped straight on the fingerboard a couple of days after fucking my knee.....after a sluggish day doing fuck all, and with the barest minimum of warming up. I tweaked my elbow a bit. Then climbed the next day. Then went to the gym the day after and tweaked it further on elbow intensive stuff. At the time of the last post I hadn't realised....but yes I fucked it too. 

Depending on the circumstances, the elbow is more of an inhibition than the knee. On the Depot circuit boards with their convenient matrix of footholds, I've managed to carefully front-point and inside edge my way along the lowest level without any knee pain.....but increasing and subsequent elbow pain as I ramped up the difficulty. Same with Awesome Walls with the vertical lead wall of endless controlled rockovers (fine) and deep locks (less fine). On the other hand, after walking on flat ground, uneven ground, uphill, downhill, upstairs and downstairs (the latter at a distinctly normal pace compared to a week ago) all without pain, I tried a light jog the other day and lasted 1 (one) step before a sharp pain stopped me, and now my knee has felt the worst it has since the first tweak.

So whilst last time when I had tennis elbow, I could do some cool slabs and highballing and running and stuff, and last time when I mashed my leg I could do plenty of deadhanging and campussing (which I did feel progress with) and weights, this time I'm not sure what the fuck to do (apart from burying my head in the sand and pretending it isn't Sendtember because that ain't fucking happening). What I am doing is antagonistic weights and stretching, and, errr, a fuckload of rehab from wobbleboarding and eccentrics to light gym work on the leg etc etc. And hope to get one of the limbs healed up enough to go on some adventurous sea-cliffs before winter....


Source: Can / Can't (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: mrjonathanr on September 01, 2020, 09:30:04 pm
I like the sound of 'antagonistic weights'. Peaceful ones wouldn't suit you Fiend.
Title: fiendblogRituals
Post by: comPiler on September 04, 2020, 01:00:14 pm
Rituals

N.B. This was originally supposed to be published in the subversive counter-cultural "steer the wavering ship of the climbing scene by gouging a hole into it's hull" fanzine UFCK, but god knows what's happened to that so I'm posting it here. Given the nature of the 'zine I went for a deliberate and unashamedly flowery / OTT style of writing but at least it's not as torturous and po-faced the old Moles / Cookson "wannabe-Redhead" word-soup. Normal service / moaning may resume next time.



RITUALS

Runes align, signs condense out of the e-ther. A freshers' meet here, a send train there, maybe a bank holiday swarm. The portents push acolytes into directions both obvious and obscure.

Candles or maybe headtorches are lit, casting the dark into light and the surrounding world into darkness. Tomes are scoured and revised, the beauty being the message is hidden in plain view: Condensed paragraphs after main crags, hollow stars, sub-notes squeezed in before the next honey pot.

Attire is donned - Adidas instead of Arcteryx, Sports Direct instead of Sportiva, shiny consumerism will get caked in grimy chimneys and shredded on old barbed wire, so why bother. Similar are tools of the trade - crowbars and blades.

Acolytes are summoned to the chariot, an understated approach is recommended - V.A.Group instead of a #vanlife, a scruffy hatchback easier to squeeze in to corners, easier for locals to ignore. Fellow explorators are chosen according to enthusiasm or gullibility or more usually availability regardless of personality. A mascot or companion may provide resolve or moral fibre - 4 legs being preferable to 4 spinning rotors.

Belatedly, subject to the vagaries of lift-sharing, coffee-imbibing, and Google Map's willful obfuscations or indeed outright objection to the chosen destination, the temple may be approached. This is usually from a tangential angle - a rear assault may be optimal or just thematically pleasing for the team. Eyes must be kept open, there are auras to be discerned - greens and browns - as well as the existence of rock and stone, sometimes separate from the base earth, sometimes all too separate.

At the place of worship, rituals postures are settled into. Lying collapsed amongst rucksacks, kneeling in the dirt, scrying and scrutinising, squatting in nooks drinking tea and avoiding looking upwards at the horrific edifice.

Phrases are intoned to bring joy to the participants: "Why the fuck are we here instead of Malham?"..."Are you sure this bit hasn't fallen down?"..."I wish we had a pad party with us"..."We'll have to ab and clean it won't we?".

At last, excuses fade away before the mighty open-ended proclamation "Well we're here now...", and the suffering commences: flesh is torn in descent gullies and abraded in clefts, fingernails are chipped and worn excavating slots and mis-timing brush strokes, legs cramp up and numbify from prolonged abseils, all the senses are full of grit and moss and dust, torsos stiffen and corpsify as the ritual mercilessly extends and ropes must be held "One more go, I'll get it next time, I wish I'd brushed that fucking pocket"...

As the physical form is flagellated, the mind is set free from the shackles of convention - reliable descriptions, informative grades, conventional styles, hive mind shared knowledge, successful ascents.

Eventually enlightenment might be attained, but through more earthly pleasures. A soothing drive home, a hot bath, the relieving de-vegetation of clothes and crevices. And finally the dilemma of either smugly posting "Well who knows what THIS crag is then?" photos on social media and basking in the knowledge of obscurity, or defacing and destroying pages with a solemn vow never to attempt a farce like that again....and knowing that both choices are entirely correct.


...


As should be obvious it is about exploring esoterica which is what I was "commissioned" to write about, and mostly inspired by actually doing so with UFCK himself (and Pippin of course). In honour of that here's a few relevant photos, some of which have been posted before:











Source: Rituals (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 07, 2020, 10:23:13 am
Pic no.2 looks good, will have to check that out. Is 3 at the far end of Dorys?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 07, 2020, 03:05:46 pm
Cheers. Pic 2 details here: http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2019/07/craig-galch.html , FZRIP is really good fun and there's a bit of new route potential on the walk-in.

3 is indeed Hard Very Far Right Dorys - Jacuzzi Dive, quite conventional and very pleasant of course. Ba'ath Party looked both blank and greasy alas.

I've been pretty slack with the esoterica and ledge shuffling this year for obvious reasons (with the exception of Lady Of Satan at Avon Gorge which definitely fits the bill for fun and quality). I hope to get imminently more organised this autumn as it would be the best thing to give genuine climbing pleasure whilst fitting around my injuries...
Title: fiendblogExtremes.
Post by: comPiler on October 04, 2020, 01:06:24 am
Extremes.


Let's talk extremes. No not those extremes like Mild Extremely Severe i.e. E0. But extremes of media taste, in my case, music. I post a lot of stuff on Facebook and elsewhere that gets universally ignored so why not do it here too. Although this is a post with a purpose. Sometimes I wonder if I like extreme music through habit, or for the sake of extremity itself, or to keep playing the role as "that sociopathic weirdo who likes devil music". And then I hear some pure banging evil filth on my MP3 player and am headbanging to it at the wall or gym, and know that it's genuine. So in the spirit of that, here's some of the more extreme tracks I have genuinely loved recently and every time I hear them:


Kilbourne & PlexÞs - Pain Becomes Pleasure (at 1:51:50 in video)
(Skip to 1:51:50 because fuck blogspot's inability to embed timestamps)
Only available as part of Kilbourne's mixes (including a better quality example here: https://soundcloud.com/discwoman/discwoman-94-x-kilbourne , an excellent mix overall). This is my headbang-of-the-year track, I can't resist it any time. In an era when a lot of hardcore is trying to be too clever with samples drops and chopping up tracks, this is refreshingly direct and banging as fuck. In fact it's as much like double speed techno as it is normal gabber. Fresh bleeps and stabs carried by relentless kicks and it works perfectly for me.

Leeloo - Sexta 
Also heavily featured on Kilbourne mixes. Christ, this track. This is the sort of track I heard partway through a mix and had to do a double take when it comes out of nowhere. Just listen to the melodic intro, this is the 1% of hardcore that is so fresh and invigorating. Uplifting and mesmerising and paired with beats that are bewildering and hard-hitting (do they run at 220 bpm.....or 440 bpm?!). Pure beauty and the beast vibes. I love it.

Drokz - Failure
Terrorcore (for those poor uncultured oafs who don't know) is a harder faster version of gabber (and actually used to be called speedcore before that got even faster) and is often a bit purposeless and pointless for me, speed and hardness for their own self-referential purposes. This 13 minute epic, rolling at 250 bpm after an intro longer than most actual pop songs) is NOT, it's a flagship example of extreme dance music that is properly crafted, atmospheric, melodic and constantly evolving as well as furiously intense. 

The Satan - Gangzta Cash


One of the anthems of the year thanks to PRSPCT records continued good taste and output, it's been featured in many of their mixes, and gets me grooving every time. In particular the organic wood-style breakbeats, a nice throwback to older gabber in which breaks were an important part of the flow energy. Throw in some bouncy bass, ravey stabs and a clear crisp production, and it's irresistible. As a bonus the artwork is brilliant.

Monolog - Hook Echo (End.user remix)
https://soundcloud.com/monolog-madsl/07-hook-echo-enduser-remix
Another absolute gem that I first heard on a PRSPCT Quaranstream mix, from End.User himself. He applies his notorious breakcore skills to Monolog's dark EDM / DnB styles, and the result is fantastic. As soon as I heard it in the mix I knew I had to get it, and after a listen in the car I knew why I loved it so much - both the hugely expansive swirls of crystal clear sound, the wall of crisp breaks.....and the drop at 4:50, jesus fucking bass. Otherworldly sci-fi dnb masterpiece!

Dom & Roland  - Beach Bum
Well this might be a bit of a cheat as not only it is a fairly tame track by the consistently excellent DnB legend who created such ferocious masterpieces as Imagination, Maximus, Jungle Beast, etc, the main reason I like it is for the pure mellow surf twang vibes of the intro. Okay so the rest is pretty gnarly with a "grizzly bear with indigestion" bassline and militant beats. But it's the combination with those guitar licks that gets me. Who says harder DnB can't be fun??

...And Oceans - Cosmic World Mother
I'm not really a black metal fan, and I'm pretty not sure I'm not a symphonic black metal fan, so these Finns have done something pretty damn amazing to make this my album of the year. I listened to a bit one evening, thought it was promising, then listened to half the album on headphones in bed, and was mesmerised. A couple more listens in the car confirmed it: this album is a hell of an experience with the intensity starting immediately at 00:00 and finishing at 47:30. It does evolve somewhat from the starting blitz to a beautiful finale, but the wall of sound built from machine gun blastbeats, frenetic yet catchy guitars and soaring keyboards is epic, relentless, and to me, thrilling.

Ingested - Where Only Gods May Tread
Kings of SLAMchester!! I don't usually feel much affiliation with the city in which I skulk, but I'm happy to be sharing it with these guys. They sometimes get called slam metal or deathcore, but fuck it, I'm calling them the most reliable modern death metal band around. The whole sound is spot on, fast, heavy, varied, crunchy riffs, melodic leads here, blasts there, bassy drops now and then. But for me the vocals stand out - yes of course they're shrieked and growled, but Jason not only has a broad enough range to make you believe there's 2 or 3 vocalists at work, the vocal pacing matches the music perfectly, much better than most other death metal I hear. Having that extra "harmony" of sound, vocals used as an instrument as well as a weapon, it's great.

Disentomb - Collapsing Skies
A short but perfect intro to their "Decaying Light" album (with it's general high quality death metal and great cover). I just love the epic riff at the start of this, heavy and haunting. Throw in some methodical blastbeats and extra lead melodies, and it's pretty much perfect. 2 minutes is not enough!


Konvent - Puritan Masochism
I've got an entirely predictable "thing" for women doing extreme music, I find it particularly enticing to hear brutal sounds created by the so-called "gentler sex" (is that even a thing any more? who knows, who cares). But of course the music has to stand in it's own right, and bloody hell does this track and album. Mid-paced doom-death built on riffs, riffs, and, well, you've got proper vocals from the abyss and a lovely guitar tone with fuzzy distortion like a gentle caress of barbed wire, but....riffs!! Catchy as absolute fuck. If you're not head-nodding immediately.....there is no hope.


*BONUS*:
Technical Itch - Creature Of War VIP
Okay I had to stick another DnB track in to balance things out, albeit an older one from a few years back. This is utterly ferocious and that's pretty much why I like it. It's still recognisably drum and bass with all the rhythm and complexity that entails, just turned up to a level of intensity that perfectly befits the name.

Finally. If you like any of this stuff, go to Bandcamp or similar, search for it, buy it and more. Support these guys and girls, they're putting the effort in to creating amazing sounds.


Source: Extremes. (http://)
Title: fiendblogHappier times
Post by: comPiler on October 10, 2020, 01:00:05 pm
Happier times


Rewinding a bit to earlier in the year, in that brief window post-lockdown-recovery and pre-MCL-and-elbow-injury, where things were bright and happy and full of climbing potential. Okay, okay, so things were mostly full of sitting on bolts at Peak Lime chossholes, but sometimes that sitting was interspersed with upwards motion and sometimes that motion resulted in success and confidence. Confidence that I was just about ready to apply to trad.....just before I found myself with two limbs out of action. Before then I'd just been dabbling, keeping my hand in, whilst using the sport for training, but still managed a few nice routes...

Frostbite, Wilton 2
I'd given this a thorough clean at last year's Wiltonfest (before trying to casually romp up Falling Crack, slipping off whilst casually clipping a cam, and ending up tangled in the rope, sizeable arse over tit, in front of Hank Pasquill, and then slinking off in a sulk). The diligence of my cleaning was rewarded as when I came back this year, it was both obviously unclimbed and obviously still in great condition. Thankfully a summer of anal retentive micro-beta note-taking about redpoint projects had erased all useful information gained from my abseil cleaning, so I could set off with a clear mind and discover that it was a very good, pushy little multi-crux two-star testpiece.

 
Jasper, Stoney Middleton
Notable for two reasons. The first was a sign that pushing myself regularly on sport was having some benefits: Coel was initially appalled by the idea - "You're REALLY warming up on an E3?!" - "Well yes, that's about F6b+, and I'm regularly warming up on/above that, and I can see the gear should be pretty obvious too". When F6c is not longer hard and F6b feels like a rest.... And yes it was fine, and yes this was a good indication I could have done okay this summer / autumn. Secondly....JASPER! My friends' Dunc and Berie's tabby tomcat whom I used to hang around with / cuddle / harass / get scratched by quite regularly when I lived in Sheff. Lovely grumpy old oaf! I'd always intended to climb this route with Duncan, but after a mere two days climbing with him this summer, he'd spannered his wrist with his mid-life crisis choice of skateboarding and trying to show off to teenagers, and I couldn't wait any longer. So sorry Dunc, but here's to the memory of Jasper <3.

Anyway....

It's now been nearly two months since I injured myself. I am still injured but things are easing off, just as the weather has started crapping out more reliably of course ;). Plentiful gym rehab, a fair bit of moorland romping / recceing, and sporadic light climbing is helping my knee feel more mobile and resilient, although I haven't tried running again after the last debacle. Easing right off on my climbing and tweaking my eccentric / rehab program is helping my elbow.....not get any more injured at least. Physio consultations imply it's not too bad, but it's certainly inhibiting me a lot. However there's a glimmer of hope! I started some tentative falling practise the other day (on lead, I'm still too wary bouldering) and that was fine on my knee swinging directly into the wall, so at least there is something (important) I can train. In the meantime, more bumbling recaps:

Piggy And The Duke, Crowden Towers
Coel was keen for Arabia, I was unusually willing to give Kinder a go as an alternative to the gym for leg rehab, so I forced myself up there. Fuck me it was grim. I had to rest 4 or 5 times on the final slog up Crowden Clough. No....it never gets any easier with DVTs. All I can do is be more gentle on myself and take it slower. Anyway, Arabia was in a howling gale, so we did a circuit of the South Eastern Edges, via this scenic sandbag, then on to Herford's Route on the Pagoda, an even worse sandbag on which the final ankle-breaking mantle-above-a-ledge had me seriously questioning whether this was sensible knee rehab, and finally down Jacob's Ladder and a vow never to go up there again until I've forgotten what the walk-in is like, which given I was just browsing Nether Tor whilst trying to find this route name, I might have already done, sigh.


Emmenthal, The Range
Now on to the proper stuff. Proper knee AND elbow rehab as it's ledge shuffling in the most ledge shuffly sort of way. Proper spirit-lifting mental rehab as as well as being easy it's also bonkers, fun, inspiring, characterful and intriguing. The weather was good, the scenery was lovely, Jodie and Kai were game for an adventure and liked the fun of it all, and we got to watch an amusing seal ruckus . And my knee only got one tiny twinge, standing up from rigging an abseil. Okay I did get multiple torso lacerations from failing to post myself through the chimney slot on Big G's The Old Steam Piano (one to go back for when it's dry), but it was a small price to pay. After warming up at The Range and another tentative but eventually pleasing day at Smurf Zawn, I managed to nourish my soul further doing Mantrap in Mousetrap Zawn which was just brilliant and my route of the year I think, cheers Luke for coming along for the ride. All of which was perfect, if expected, confirmation that adventurous / esoteric sea-cliffs are exactly what is good for my mind and body in the current state, despite the rarity of being able to rouse partners for such pleasures. It's still in my mind for some winter sun days (albeit depending on how draconian the Welsh covid-5G rules AND associated racist vigilante nationalism get too).


The Crunge, Craig Y Forwyn
Williams and Muzza P were bleating on about how great Craig Y Forwyn was. I turned up and almost all of it apart from the Great Wall looked like a direct and dire mixture between Wye Valley and Willersley. Ugh. Turns out that despite most of the crag being less aesthetically inspiring than a single hold on The Range, the rock is actually quite decent, full of hidden horizontal breaks, and actually climbs really well for limestone. I should have more faith given it's A55 / Llandudno area which is infinitely superior to any greasy crumble in the Pennine dales. Talking of which, the BMC should stop pissing around renovating the world's worst sport climbing on the fringes of Horseshoe, and instead purchase Forwyn main cliff, nuke all the ivy, install some bolt lower-offs, and purchase a caravan in the park below as a climber's mini-hut #realtalk




The day after we did a bit at Marine Drive and Crinkle Crags which was great as usual, saw a goat, lots more seals, wind turbines, etc etc. 

Anyway that's it for now. I'm cultivating a fine balance of being grumpy that I've missed getting away, but also being vaguely inspired for gritstone which is pretty essential at this time of year.



Source: Happier times (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on October 11, 2020, 09:48:03 am
Good stuff as usual.. but yes your grumpy-o-meter must be on a high setting to think Forwyn is urghh. Although tbf if you climbed on the left-hand side (Crunge etc.) then yes, it is. But going to Forwyn to climb on the left-hand end is akin to asking for burger & chips in a Michelin starred restaurant.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: tomtom on October 11, 2020, 11:31:45 am
But going to Forwyn to climb on the left-hand end is akin to asking for burger & chips in a Michelin starred restaurant.

😂
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on October 11, 2020, 08:08:49 pm
Ehhhhhh!!

I ssid that the Main Wall area didn't look like the rest, and that even the stuff I did was a lot better than it looked, due to be North Wales Limestone.

I was mostly limited to the flanks due both a plethora of injuries and also partners who might have struggled to follow complex meandering stuff. I'd have given my left bollock to have my knee and elbow miraculously cured at the crag and be fit enough to try Great Wall. Anyway. I did some E2 on the right with twin pegs in and that was really nice until the grotty finish. I'll be back when I'm fit for sure.

Also my grump-o-meter starts on high as the lowest setting. It usually gets cranked up to beyond 11...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on October 11, 2020, 11:18:02 pm
 :thumbsup:

The E2 sounds like The Groan.. decent but not a patch on either The Snake or Sangfroid Direct, both superb (and probably soft E3..). Loads of good routes in the main area now following cleaning efforts during the first lockdown. Decent autumn venue after a couple of dry days, if Wales ever reopens. Need to be a bit fit to appreciate the place as most things are steep and pumpy on flat crimps with bomber gear. Great Wall starting traverse seeps longer than most other stuff, wait for a dry spell as many have blown it on the tricky start.
Title: fiendblogYears Passing
Post by: comPiler on December 09, 2020, 01:00:12 pm
Years Passing

Okay so this is a month out of date now but the last month hasn't been particularly conducive to communicating about climbing.... Rewinding from to early November in recent years....

2017 - Great summer climbing, wet autumn, but still very psyched....then made a couple of wee mistakes (more on them below).

2018 - Mediocre summer being ill but at least doing sport climbing, great autumn having recaptured my trad psyche and ability, pretty reassuring.

2019 - So-so summer having regressed with trad psyche and ability, but a great autumn bouldering and exploring in Wales, a fresh perspective.

2020 - Okay summer sport climbing and getting fully fit, then complete emergency stop due to double injuries, lost all of autumn trad season, and then the weather minged out just as I'd started to recover. Bollocks.

So I'm writing this because it's the 3rd anniversary of contracting norovirus, not recovering, and getting a mild but chronic digestive disorder, that still persists and inhibits me, from potentially nice days out, to indoor wall training when Lord Bozzer graciously allows us, to home workouts when he doesn't. Still there, still nagging me, still holding me back. It comes and goes but when it's there, life and climbing still feels a bit grayscale. But it is getting better year by year, who knows I might not be re-hashing this tedious shite for the 10th year anniversary.

More usefully for me to note (and hopefully my sporadic climbing partners to tolerate): I've had a realisation recently. I had assumed that my decreasingly frequent but still existent nausea bouts would have mostly physical after-effects on climbing: Queasiness, lack of energy, tiredness, lack of core tension etc. And thus that I'd struggle to do physically hard climbing, but be okay with easier but more committing climbing. 

BUT. Experience has shown it's the other way around. The subtle psychological after-effects, particularly an underlying vulnerability, seem to consistently make easier but committing climbing harder to cope with than simple, less-psychological, but physically harder climbing (in which the initial wobbliness seems to get overriden by adrenaline and focus). 

Looking back on various bouts / attempted climbing, this has been a fairly common correlation: A bout in El chorro - couldn't climb the day after but the next day fine on the sport despite feeling ropey. Ditto with a mild bout in Pfalz. Double bout (two nights in a row) in North Wales whilst bouldering, managed to boulder both days after again despite feeling wasted. 2018 when they were really regular, I managed to get into redpointing and cope fine. Minor bout before Egerton early summer 2019, felt iffy all day, couldn't cope with trad and started a downward trend that year. Smurf Zawn late summer, mild bout the night before, just felt spooked and timid the day after. Standing Stones recently after prior and slightly recurring bout, couldn't deal with any boldness (but could visualise how okay bouldering would be). 

Sport / bouldering / training (subject to being uninjured) have been more suitable than sketchy trad (as glorious as that is). Something to take into account and hopefully use to try to halt and revert the vague downward trend of recent years. At the moment, my knee has recovered to at last 90%, my elbow rehab is going much slower but seems to be progressing and I'm being cautious, I'm working on flexibility more....and now we can train indoors for a while at least (until the great post-Xmas covid spike / granny massacre gives an excuse for another lockdown...).

Anyway here's some photos of a nice sky from during lockdown2 when I travelled a short distance for outdoor exercise whilst meeting a single person from another household:





Bonus: A bit later on, here's me at the same crag also doing outdoor exercise whilst meeting a single person from another household, alas without a comparable sky, but with butchered brightness levels at dusk ;). Bonus points for guessing the problem:









Source: Years Passing (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on December 09, 2020, 01:02:38 pm
Shit blog. More moaning, more navel-gazing. At least the sunset pictures are okay tho.
Title: fiendblogCatching up on much bouldering.
Post by: comPiler on May 05, 2021, 07:00:14 pm
Catching up on much bouldering.


Yeah this is a bit overdue. Blanket lockdowns irrespective of transmission risk, recovering from previous injury, winter weather, what-fucking-ever. It's spring now, the Lime Caller set a new benchmark of farcically bad lime calls with a call just before blizzards hit the Peak and then it went back to crisp grit connies. The punishment being that May started with a monsoon oh well. So here's a catch up on stuff I fitted in here and there. Esoteric gems ahoy!!


Grit Oddities 2 - Yorkshire
A right smorgasbord of all sorts! Roadside highballing, moorland pebble-pulling, woodland crimping, urban roofs... And some real personal challenges.

Photo Finish 7A (7A+?)
Something that inspired me a couple of years ago and turned into a proper seige... It got right into my brain and the middle couple of sessions had me leaving thinking "fuck this" (trying to move my left hand whilst holding the high gaston had me wanting to headbutt the crag and chew the pads in frustration), only to return again despite myself... And well, yeah, it is ace overall.

For Locals Only 7A+ (7A(!)?)
Local exercise and all... Actually this should be on *everyone's* wishlist (especially after I thoroughly cleaned it on ab on a previous visit). Brilliant fingery pop to a jug, then a life-affirming highball finish - that had me shaking with adrenaline for many minutes! A 10 second walk-in means it's easy to lug pads in, and then there's the project wall just right...

Pochette Surprise 6C (6C+/7A?)
This had been on my radar for a while, and I finally braved the alpine approach fucked legs and my stack of pads, and of course it was totally worth it - it has an all out pebble move for God's sake! I had to summon a lot of faith and my face at the end says it all.

Pocket Pull Pond 6C
Terrible name for a really cool problem. Although the pond over the top was solid ice which was quite fun. A rather scenic spot but prone to returning to nature at quiet a sprint, hence any highballing plans were abandoned in favour of this cool face climb which took all my determination to stay adhered to the middle crimps!

Stone Love 6A/6B (6A+?)
An unknownchoss.com special! Is it downgrading Will Hunt or upgrading dunnyg?? Who cares, it's actually a pretty neat little problem despite the coarse and "newish" rock. Definitely worth a detour from the honeypots for.

Galling Groove 6C+ (6B+/C?)
A mini-gem which just about transcends it's fairly grotty adjacent rock with a neat line, neat height, and neat moves. Go there on a nice day.

Busta Groove V5 (V6 w/o kneepad?)
A pro-tip from Jordan that this can dry quick despite it's woodland location, but this one is Nao's problem. Just plain good fun. I couldn't the knee to work enough to reach the top direct so hard to rely on a toe-hook - rare for me and quite satisfying.



Grit Oddities 2 - Peak
Aretes? Aretes!

Geisterspiel 7A
One of Mark20's nu-skool classics at Rivelin Quarries - and on the same day someone was working his nu-skool classic E7 at the far left too! I've had some fun days with M20 - he wears ron hills, has a pet dego, and likes a bit of black metal. I was totally psyched to do this problem as it is legitimately brilliant, as good as any grit arete despite the lack of top-out. Great compression moves and a cheeky toe-scum for me to finish. 

James' Arete 6C (6B+?)
Another new addition, not sure of the actual name! With all of the base-of-crag bouldering gems scattered along it, I was speculating that Rivelin Quarry now has a better circuit than Bas Cuvier. Except less pof, quieter vibes, less hordes of bellends, etc....

Sambucus 6C (6C+?)
King lines come to Woolley Edge! An undeniable classic of esclating difficulty and a committing move to a clean top-out.

Lessons In Depth 7B (7A)
Grade change due to using different beta from Mike Adam's first ascent on every single move! Then again if you're a 6 foot 8C climber you might not be looking for 7A vs 7B beta, even if you could tell the difference... Despite it's proximity to the mud slope, this is another great problem with flowing and involved movement.

Gazelle 7A+ (6C/+?)
The problem I initially went to do and left me standing around wondering "oh, what next?". Another good line despite the grading nonsense, slightly easier and not quite as fine as Sambucus, but makes a good triptych!

Pepper Mill V5
A rare visit to conventional pastures, although according to G, this gets relatively little attention, despite, of course, it being brilliant. It was bloody freezing in the wind, and having to wear wellies for the "Scotland+++" bog level walk-in, my feet went numb and didn't thaw out for 45 mins with the car heater on full.

Kappix 7A
A salvaged day, and indeed salvaged problem, when the Peak was snowbound and the frosting on the trees at Harthill was quite beautiful. We went to try Scrapheap Challenge - I built as best a tyre platform as I could and was trying the strict starting method. I lunged for the lip hold, spun off leftwards and missed the pads, so we moved them. A few more goes, I half caught the lip hold, long enough to swing rightwards and miss the pads on that side.... We moved onto Kappix which had a really cool move to stood up and I had to finish rightwards as I couldn't do the reach leftwards. Later video browsing showed people doing Scrapheap without that eliminate start and with about 30 tyres padding the landing instead of 6....



Baildon Bonanza
I've always liked Baildon for routes. Now I like it for bouldering too.

Who Are We... 7A+
The kingest of lines! Terrible name (bollox to dad rock), beautiful problem. It hadn't been on my radar as it's at the very upper fringes of my ability, but then I started playing around... And yes, it really is that good, especially with this more natural start and static finish (I loved my impromptu press off the groove to get my weight up). Celebrity spotting by DJ Perc and Jarvis Cocker!

The Baildon Stem 6C+
Done as a consolation prize after being unable to get near the rat crimp start of Quaint Groove, but fun in it's own right. Not sure about this foot in the chip malarkey, but this way seemed natural to me. 

The Mantel 7A (6C+?)
This was the catalyst for my Baildon bouldering. I'd always assumed it would be too hard and too thuggy for the short and heavy, actually it's just plain great fun. Once I worked out I could do it, it made my day.

Suggy's Wall 7A
It took quite a few visits to get on this when it's not too hot (i.e. above 0'C for this problem!!) or seeping. A lovely bit of wall with some very small crimps on the crux and an E1 5b finish that has never seen E4 6b in it's life!!

The Oik SS 6C+ (6C?)
Strong line, soft grade - I'd have flashed it if I'd cleaned the slightly scrittly finger ramp properly. A nice problem from the sitter or the stand, also my ex-girlfriend had cats she'd nicknamed "greedy wee oiks", so I'm fond of the name.



Peak Slabs In The Woods Triptych
A fun concept to explore: Cool slabs hidden on boulders in the woods below main crags!

Sunset Crack 7A (6C/+?)
Terrible name, brilliant problem. Great location, great rock, gentle landing, a distinctive chickenhead feature to go for, continuous moves, and lots of little features to work out a sequence on. One of the best in the Peaks!

Yorkshire Farmer 6C+ (6C?)
This might have been put up by one of UKC's prime headpunting chodes, but it's still a great find. Crimpy! I also did the more direct version where you don't swerve onto the ramp at the last minute, also good and not much harder.

Dreamboat Direct 6C/7A (6C+?)
Not really a slab at all where it matters - more like a vertical wall on which you have to hold on really hard on some minging rounded, frictional holds. Hence struggling like balls on my first session and having to come back and cruise up it in much fresher conditions. Still a cool bit of rock in a nice location (but scarcely 100m below the main crag) and the spooky stand-up out of the starting pocket is slabby enough....



Clattering Stones Circuit:
Somewhere that I'd always wanted to visit, both due to the cool-sounding circuit but also a relatively easy drive from home. But it's the furthest West-most grit in Yorkshire on a North-facing slope and the amount of times I've driven up out of Nelson into swirling mizzle and CLART and had to continue on to Scout Hut or Baildon or wherever... Finally got there in a fine dry period with a forecast of fog lifting to sunshine, well it didn't but the rock was bone dry and it was a great day.

Linea Negra 6C+
The first bit of rock that appealed to me, with a lovely selection of subtle features in an equally subtle scoop. Unfortunately it turns out that the obvious method is to crank past most of it, thus getting it done pretty quickly. If you're at this boulder for a while, trying to work out every possible method on this problem would be fun.

Fontanelles 6C+
A very attractive wall with climbing to match. A bit tricker for the short as I couldn't do the "reach off good left sidepull to high right edge" method, and had to combine a cheeky toe hook with a terrible smear for the right hand for alternate beta.

Androsterone 7A
The highlight of the day! Not only a technical delight with full usage of the toe-catch and thoughtful hand sequences, but a real fight trusting the distant left foot and reaching the top. I felt satisfied and my fingers felt worked after this.

Morning Sickness static 6C (6C+?)
I tried the dyno. Fuck dynos. I'm short, heavy, and despite strongish legs, very slow and not springy. The static sequence, despite the guidebook nonsense, is at least as good - varied, technical, and precarious. Distinctly harder than LN and F for me, but if you were a few inches taller and could use either the first lip sloper properly, or the main lip sloper, it would be a lot easier.

Love Handles 6B+
This took a fair bit of scrittle brushing off the top. Cool line though, with switching laybacks.

-------

That's it for now. Maybe more of the same catching up soon-ish!



Source: Catching up on much bouldering. (http://)
Title: fiendblogCatching up on more bouldering.
Post by: comPiler on June 06, 2021, 01:01:44 am
Catching up on more bouldering.

Part 2...

Lancashire - Shady Bits
Perfect places to escape the summer heat and still get your quarried crimping fix.

Resurgence 7A+ (7A?)
One of my favourite problems! The moment when I fully weight the right hand jug at the crux and everything else comes off....I loved it. Good climbing all the way, and whilst the standing start adds some nice moves, it doesn't tire you out enough to add to the difficulty of the crux section (unless your skin was really pureed for the crimps). The natural sitter tho....I can believe that adds two grades.

Brian Jacques 7A
A very red bit of crag! Not easy to find in condition but worth it, and it's a nice stroll. This cool problem didn't take long, but then I completely failed to do Hawkeye 6C (maybe skin and/or conditions were deteriorating...).

Cordless Power 7A
Somehow, counter-intuitively squeezed in on a day when the whole of Northern England was raked with gales and storms, even nearby Longridge was freezing and seeping. Well Cardwell was just freezing and I managed to do this eventually, only after discovering the unauthorised beta. A good problem in a lonely setting but the outgoing view is nice.

The Pursuit Of Slappiness 7A
Almost a king line if it wasn't for that pesky crack at the start, but the rules make sense and it climbs really well. Plus with the extended finish it has plenty of excitement at the top - it got my cold black heart racing a bit.

Mirth Of Ducks 7A (6C)
Reunion Wilderness's perfect shadier twin - similar difficulty, just as good a line, more balanced climbing, and less scary overall. And again the top is a good spot to sit and take it all in...

Troy A Little Tenderness SS 7A (6C+?)
More semi-eliminates with good moves (and different potential sequences). I thoroughly scrubbed the lower bit of this and smoothed out the landing so it would go from a natural sitter, although it doesn't add any difficulty. Although the climbing is fun, the quality of the goose honking is better.

Two For One 7A
More hidden gems. I got psyched seeing pictures of the Lancs Rock Revival crew on this and it lived up to the promise, not too hard but the teetering around took a bit of working out.


Grinshill - Bouldering Gems
A selection of bouldering (not soloing!) gems from around the Grinshill woodland. Somewhere pretty different to explore and while some of the rock needs a gentle touch the variety and lines are really good.

Utopia 6C+
...Or 7A if you don't tape around your finger joint for the "awesome" (i.e. brutal!) crux pinch. Very cool board style problem, steeper than it looks but with a leaf pile bouncy castle beneath you.

Third Brother 7A
And now for something completely different... Unusual and very cool climbing with a cheeky head-smear during the crux, couldn't quite believe it worked. (The arete to the right is Terminator / L'Angle Shropfait, just a bit too hard for me)

Eliminator 6C
The slightly easier version using the footledge out left, 6C+ without this. A tricky and burly bugger that took me quite a few goes. Ticking the trio of up lines on this block (go in a dry spell with a breeze) in a day would be delightful.

Ice Cream SS 6C
A "prince line" with great climbing despite the lack of top-out (which could be excavated if you need to add on a MVS mantel). Enough holds to be steady but enough trickiness to be nicely knacky. 

A Shropshire Mon 7A+
Climbed with The Nesscliffe Monster heckling and providing good chat and local knowledge! A serious single session siege that boiled down to a crucial kneebar that only just stayed in on the successful go. Burly but just the right amount of features to be pleasingly positional too.

Doug's Face 6C+ (6C)
A minor problem but a fun battle to stay attached first go.


Lancashire - Suntraps
Sunny places to get your quarried grit fix if it's a bit cold.

Rusty Wall 6C+ (7A strict?)
One of the highlights of my recent-ish bouldering! A really satisfying and technically intense highball with a top-out that was unfeasible until I spent two hours in the pissing sleet re-excavating it (which also works for the classic Colt 7C). It still took a couple of sessions, and I think is purer this way rather than using the edge of the left crack at the top.

Lifeline 6C
Another technical delight albeit a much more amenable one, a little gem. Done after an aborted visit to a bitterly cold wind-swept Wilton, whilst this had enough winter sun to feel gentle.

Boopers 6B
Talking about sun I tried this in late spring after the first 2020 lockdown, and it felt hard. So I went back in a snowstorm and it still felt hard! Definitely a good problem.

Crimping Cows 6C?
Not listed in the book, this is what I made of r-man's Leaping Cows dyno except using the holds instead ;). Seemed to work pretty well.

Alison's Route SS 7A
Climbed just after Haydn's deluded "Calling Of The Lime" in 2021 (and whilst it was snowing in the Peak). Despite Ousel's being a suntrap and lacking breeze that day, it was really crisp and nippy and these problems felt good despite being tough on the fingers. Classic base-of-crag quarried grit.

Zendik 7A
As above but I needed to put a beanie on! This was quite cool for a "diagonal line in the middle of nowhere" and took a bit of working out for the finish.

Phat Haendel 6B
Scenic and lovely to be out in the snow! 

Reunion Wilderness RH Eliminate  6C (6C(!))
Quite exciting and committing - the crux feels like you could spin off and end up somewhere in that lovely background scenery. Okay, yeah, it's an eliminate, but it's only one rule and everything else is cool about it. And you thought Lancashire was all grotty lowballs in dingy quarries....


Cheshire Life - Exploratory sandstone bouldering
A tour around some diverse and exciting areas. Time to stray away from the chalk and queues at Pisa Wall!

Cheshire Life V5 (V6?)
I didn't know Cheshire life was actually that burly, I thought it was all daintily desperate like Pex and Harmer's, but apparently thugging through roofs is a valid lifestyle choice. I found this pretty tough and comparable to Colton's Crack. 

Knit One V5 (V3/4?)
A bit of light relief but worth it as it's a nice line. I cleaned and trimmed the top but it was still a bit goey on my own, it would be fine with a spotter.

Self Harmer V6
Bloody brilliant. While waiting for ATDI to come into the shade, I thoroughly cleaned this unjustly neglected problem off, and did it soon after, and it was my favourite experience at Harmer's - the mega-rockover from a 1œ finger 1/3 pad edge to a thumbsprag, teetering around in the middle, and then I couldn't find any smear in the right place for the final move, so......

At The Drive In V6 
I was seduced by the prospect of two actual good holds (!), and this became quite an obsession for me (after cleaning it and waiting ages for the seepage to stop), although a fair amount of that obsession was giving up on the RH-slot, LF-pocket rockover and fixating on a desperately reachy way around it on smears that was a sub-5% move for me. Then I found a different method for the authorised rockover beta and it was okay on the 4th session....

Queen Of Hearts V4 (V5?)
More Harmer's magic. I've often gone here hoping to rattle off a few vertical testpieces, then 2+ hours later when finally I've teetered up one, scarcely believing what I'm hanging on to, I'm more than satisfied with a lone problem. QOH is much harder than Yate's Layway and has a tiny diagonal pinch at the crux and a lovely juggy mono to signify it's all going to be okay.

Colton's Crack V6
Frodsham fun! This has got all the monkeying around you'd expect from the crag, except you do have to pull on a minging small crimp mid-way through it. When I topped out a lady's dog was standing right on the edge sniffing at me bemusedly :).

Suffering Slab 6C+
No tears please, it's a waste of good suffering. Another neglected climb I brushed up well, in fact the whole wall is neglected and and deserves more attention. Apparently this problem has Rules, I didn't really know what Rules I should be obeying and TBH have had quite enough of fucking Rules over 2020/21, so I just climbed what felt right at this standard and it felt natural and was an ace problem too.

Heath Ledger Direct V5?
Another one where I wasn't sure about sides of the arete and chips and stuff, but hell it's a good line and good fun so there you go.


Lancashire - Wiltons
World class routes....but I'd never properly sampled the bouldering until recent years. And there's some really good stuff, especially if you explore around...

Ell's Arete 6C
Definitely world class, as good as anything on grit (Technical Master?? Pffft, what's that??). 3 hours cleaning and top-out excavation in the minging weather, 3 minutes light brushing the now-pristine rock in a cold dry spell, it should hopefully stay clean for a while especially if people actually go and do it instead of fucking around on chalk-caked shite like The Move or whatever.

Children Of Arachne 7A (6C/+?)
A cool "tight line" problem. It felt easy in perfect conditions but given it's all positive crimps I doubt it's that conditions-reliant. I really liked the crossed-double-gaston move to hold my balance!

Flywalk Slab 7A (6C?)
A nice steady problem on nice crimps. TBH the much harder and higher Jim's Slab 7A+ rocking up left from the slot is the true inspiring line here, but too hard and high for me!

Snakey B 6C+ (6B+/C)
Another nice steady problem, the sitter adds no difficulty but is a nice start. I slipped off the final jug on a flash go, oh well.

Purple Haze 7A (6C/+?)
A lovely attractive one move wonder. I first did this on a sunny, if breezy, June day when I was out of practise post-lockdown1, and found it no harder than Gameplay (which I tried and didn't manage on the same day), but it might be a bit knacky... 

Camille Claudel 6B (6A?)
Brilliant! Lovely slab climbing with a committing feel, it's all in the feet. Would be 4+ in Font. 

Gameplay 6A (6B+/C?)
A bit of a hidden gem I think?? Doesn't get much attention and I never saw chalk on it. But it's great, committing, varied, slopey and thoughtful - totally understarred and undergraded (much better and harder than Snakey B for example).

Common Knowledge 6C 
Another problem that doesn't see as much attention as it should maybe?? Just proper quality climbing.

JR's Soft Shoe Shuffle 7A
After an autumn of injury and an early winter struggling to get back into things, this was the problem that roused me from a stupor of easy mileage (and it's quite good for golfer's elbow as there's nothing you can pull hard on!). I got really psyched by the pure thin slabness of it all, and it took a couple of visits including this bitterly cold one - satisfying!


....I think that's it for now, for dedicated bouldering videos at least. Next time I might include more moaning or something.


Source: Catching up on more bouldering. (http://)
Title: fiendblogNew things.
Post by: comPiler on June 14, 2021, 07:00:04 pm
New things.


Another somewhat delayed posts about autumn/winter/spring escapades....

When you're forced to COMPLY and OBEY and stick to local exercise for local people....well it turns out you can unearth (sometimes literally) all sorts of stuff. Sometimes that stuff involves rock and sometimes ascending that rock is quite pleasurable too and might even be so for other people....

BLOCS:


Maeshafn Quarry 
Sailing The Seven Chodes 6C-ish * 
At the right end of the Main Wall is a rainproof alcove with a shrub cornice and a semi-eliminate line with good moves up the steep left wall. Start sitting on a crimp and undercling and power upwards to finish at obvious good sloping shelf. The crack itself is out. (Fiend 28.04.21)



Cracken Edge (Over The Moors BMC guide).
Tentacles V4/5-ish *
The nice highball wall in a hollow just left of the main routes section. Sit start on an good diagonal hold, climb directly via small crimps and a long move to a jug rail, escape easily right. The jug rail can get some dirt from above, easily flicked off with a brush stick from the right. Well cleaned via abseil so no idea about the grade, the star is conservative.
Edit: Confirmed as "the best V4 slab at Cracken Edge" by Mark20....
Small Prow V3-ish
100m right of the main routes bit, the obvious small prow. Sit start on an good diagonal hold and clamp up to the break, carefully avoiding the block to the right.
(Fiend ??.04.21)


ROUTES:



John Henry Quarry:
Pirate Error E3 5c *
The cleaned line right of Cragster (actually where the topo shows Cragster finishing). Start at a weakness several metres right of Cragster. Climb the lower wall to a sloping break and traverse left to gain the "staircase". From the top of this continue up the thin crack past an obtuse crux to gain blocky holds, and keep motoring up to finish. Lots of medium cams.




Cracken Edge:
Summon The Cracken E3 5c *
The obvious steep line right of Cratos, via a thin crack through the bulge. Climb directly into the hanging corner and make powerful moves out past crimps, a sloping jam, and a crucial cam. Keep cranking up the photogenic headwall to finish.




Broadbottom Quarry:
Broadside E3 5c *
The steep sidewall adjacent to Elder Wall. Climb Elderberry Crack for 5m to some gear slots. Swing right and up to gain a high handledge, then make excellent moves up the thin crack via a sharp jam and small cams to gain the break. Keep pushing past the hourglass cracks to pop out onto the ledge out right. Either lower off the sapling, continue up the slab to an excavated mantel and scramble to trees, or escape on a pre-placed ab rope. Lots of small cams.
(All: Fiend, Coel Hellier, April 2021. All abseil cleaned / inspected)


Source: New things. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kingholmesy on June 14, 2021, 07:25:19 pm
Looks like some good stuff there Fiend - the highball at Cracken Edge in particular.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on June 14, 2021, 07:31:30 pm
Cheers Holmsey! Yeah it was fun that. Nice to get something a bit different out of the local area.
Title: fiendblogGlimmers Of Hope
Post by: comPiler on July 07, 2021, 07:00:28 pm
Glimmers Of Hope


God knows it's been a very long time. The last time I felt I had a decent level of trad climbing confidence was in Autumn 2018, after a spring of digestive illness and depression and a summer crawling out of that via logistically-manageable but strength-maintaining sport climbing. I did pretty well back then and was very happy doing so. Since then....the diminishing but constant effects of my digestion, covid blanket-lockdowns-irrespective-of-risk, and injury ups and downs have held me back too much for comfort.

(Incidentally I estimate that my digestive issues have reduced my overall trad ability by a full grade - due to the increased depression/vulnerability and reduced energy that comes from those issues - but not affected my sport nor bouldering ability as short sharp bursts of non-emotionally-stressful activity are fine. Conversely, I expect my DVTs dropped my bouldering / sport ability by a grade due to the 10+kg weight gain due to difficulty with CV exercise, but did not affect my trad ability (walk-ins aside) as the power-to-weight reduction is less of an issue for easier trad moves (and there's little emotional component to the DVTs apart from occasional rage/grumps))

Anyway I've been doing exactly the same plan as I did last summer to get me right up to peak fitness (just before fucking my MCL and elbow and having a mediocre Autumn 2020) - doing plenty of sport climbing to regain fitness, strength, and roped confidence. Redpointing is training for sport onsighting is training for trad limestone is training for sea-cliff limestone... And it seems to be working a bit.

I had a trip down to Devon and despite trying to find trad partners being akin to trying to find a very small needle in a giant Shire-sized haystack, I managed to have one good trad day out and did my first challenging / satisfying trad lead for ages, Clotted Cream at Meadfoot Quarry:



This was with Madeline who had a lovely old boi dog, so have a picture of him too:


So CC intimidated me quite a bit despite being it being quite appealing and myself being quite well warmed-up. Thus I chose a mantra "7a....7a....7a" on the basis that it was well-protected, sport-ish style climbing, and having flashed multiple 7as in the previous month, surely that should be okay. Obviously as any pedant kno, it's nowhere near F7a, more like F6c, but the former was the level of effort I expected to put in. And it worked - cranking through the pump on the headwall above bomber cams felt scarcely different to doing so above bolts. A real morale boost, even if I left Devon with far more wishlist routes than ticklist routes.

(Incidentally the large block on the arete / niche, which features Pete Saunders merrily and needlessly swinging around on it in the guidebook, has parted company with the crag, despite how solid it felt when I was relaxing on it. It will leave less gear and holds but also a large niche that will also be in the VS slabby arete - I'm glad I got on it when I did!)

...

Then a bit later and by a bit of random chance, it was Holocaust at Dow Crag - a totally standard trade route. But for me, whilst it's not the most challenging route I've done since DVTs (not even top 30), nor the most challenging walk-in (Neckband just pips it) it IS the most challenging route I've done after a challenging walk-in (1.5 hours for a 1 hour walk-in, including 3 rests on the normal track and 4 rests on the death-scree - a long time to get intimidated and tired and not want to have to come back). Also possibly the most challenging routes since I moved to Manchester.

With the intimidation of the approach, this was a great reminder to myself that the potential is still there, that I can do okay even on one of my more logistically taxing inspirations, that I can and should take some positivity from this. And that if I ever drag myself up there again some other fucker can carry the rope.



As for the route itself - which I've wanted to do for 14 years, ever since doing it's adjacent and entirely contrasting sibling Tumble (are there any other routes of the same grade, on the same wall, so close to each other, with such different styles??) - it's a bit of a strange one. I did it, and I did it well tbh, but it still felt like a fair bit of luck getting the crux, which is slightly dissatisfying?? But I guess that's the entire nature of the route, and something so dynamically cruxy, and something at my limit. There have been enough times where the luck hasn't gone my way on such moves and this time it did. Also, pro-tip: the entire route can be well-protected with a half dozen small blue camalots (and a couple of wires for the belay). True story and it would save a lot of weight on the walk!

So that's a couple of happy scenarios I can hopefully build on...



Source: Glimmers Of Hope (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Duma on July 07, 2021, 07:15:30 pm
Good words Fiend. Glad your summers starting well.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on July 08, 2021, 09:24:27 am
Good Job Matt.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kingholmesy on July 08, 2021, 09:43:40 pm
Good work Fiend.  Several years later and I’m still annoyed about falling off Clotted Cream with my hand on top of the crag …
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 09, 2021, 12:07:10 pm
Cheers! Yeah I can imagine that would be gutting, I was very aware of that possibility. OTOH I'm still annoyed errr mildly jealous that 90% of things I'm psyched for in that book have a photo of you on them already  ;)
Title: fiendblogMini-Adventures #1 and #2
Post by: comPiler on July 09, 2021, 01:00:09 pm
Mini-Adventures #1 and #2

 
A concept I coined when referring to the undeniable delights of The Range, and although it was partly dismissed by Wil in an interview in Cheque's authentic down-to-earth magnum opus THE SEASIDE , I stand by both the existence and inherent quality of the concept. 

It's basically sea-cliffs (usually, although not always) with lovely settings, gentle approaches, amenable access, mostly single pitch, and nothing epic surrounding the routes - but routes that whilst shorter, have a good feeling of adventure and commitment once on them, with intriguing lines up strong architecture, interesting rock, exciting terrain, and a feeling of being away from the conventional big ticks. The essence of hidden gems in fact.

And of course I bloody love it. Who wouldn't?? Even when my trad confidence hasn't been great in recent years, I've still managed to potter on with this sort of exploration, and it has nourished my soul when my mind is injured and my body is weak (or is it the other way around??). 2018 it was stuff like Lovely Day Mr Thomas at The Range and Dr Livingstone I Exhume at Trearddur Bay, 2019 it was more Range in the form of The Blue Buoy and Surfant, and also Jacuzzi Dive on the Lleyn, 2020 it was essential knee and elbow therapy on the bonkers Emmenthal Wall at the Range. 

2021 I'm starting a bit early - partly to get some cool stuff "out of the way" (an incongruous phrase for something that is so inherently pleasurable in the moment) before the South Stack and Lleyn bird-bans are off in August and grander adventures are opened up (the magnificent Rapture Of The Deep and Mantrap being highlights of previous years). And partly because I'm psyched for such pure fun. So far it's been....

#1 - Trwyn Maen Melyn:

Yes, that crag. A firm favourite to the extent I'm likely to tick the crag apart from the E7. Still the most bewilderingly semi-solid rock around too. 



I kicked things off with an amnesia-point retro-flash of The Incredible Surplus Head, which I'd kicked things off 14 years ago i.e. kicked a small block off and then panicked and slumped onto gear and failed (also worth noting it finishes slightly left of the line in my updated topo). It's well past my 10 year moratorium, so I went back with the lone bit of vague recollection that a red camalot was useful somewhere. Thus I saved my red camalot right until the final alarmingly steep section where it rattled around in a perfect yellow camalot slot like your pencil-dick rattles around in a whore's gapehole, but somehow I still hauled myself over the lip.

Then it was on to the main event....




Queer Bar! The first time I've visited one to be honest, and it lived up to my "greasy dark hole" desires... I'd tried this in 2016 with good dry conditions but without a crucial giant cam, and again in 2019 with a good giant cam but without crucial dry conditions. This time I had both and it was brilliant. Proper improvised squirming towards the light and rebirth - when I reached the lip I was cackling to myself as it was just such ridiculous fun. 

#2 - Porthllechog & Trwyn Wylfa:

Some even more quintessential mini-adventures here...



Faller At The First - there was very nearly a faller (me) at the first route which was done as a warm-up as it was in the sun on a fresh blustery day, and turned out to pack quite a punch for a 12m route. Steep, sustained, and really very good.



Cerys / Porpoise Delight - a disputed first ascent claim, but I'll take the slightly higher grade and star rating of the latter, as this has quite a sketchy start, sustained interest, and a perfectly photogenic position that belies it's "small crag" impressions - anything that traverses a sea-cave always makes the list. By pure chance we went down to this wall slightly frustrated about the lack of mobile signal to check the updates on the Dump , and there was an older team at the crag that turned out to be one of the recent developers of the crag and knew it all off by heart (well, apart from the previous claim on this line, maybe). A stroke of luck.

The next day involved backing off a Pat Littlejohn MXS 5b at Trwyn Wylfa (which was described as needing a "gentle touch"). I couldn't even commit to the first 5a pitch and upon abbing for gear I'm glad I didn't as the ""5b"" pitches looked too much.....it's good to know when to back off. So this was the consolation prize...



Stranger On The Shore, a real gem on mostly properly weathered solid black rock. This had delightful climbing with a daunting central groove that seemed slopey and holdless until gentle udging revealed all it's amenable joys (jugs). 

Hopefully I will be updating with parts #3, #4, #5 etc etc sooner rather than later!!


Source: Mini-Adventures #1 and #2 (http://)
Title: fiendblogCreative Urges
Post by: comPiler on July 12, 2021, 01:00:04 pm
Creative Urges


Here's something I did recently (although I've been wanting to do it for years...a decade?)


https://soundcloud.com/fiend-ophobia/96darkness

A semi-mix / segued selection of 30 classic dark drum'n'bass / techstep tracks from the mid-late 1990s, the era between Origin Unknown's Valley Of The Shadows creating the darkside, and until Bad Company's The Nine took it to the next rave level. Especially 96-98-ish when early Ed Rush, Nico, Optical, Doc Scott, Ray Keith, Trace etc were creating a maelstorm of stomping 2-step beats, furious amen breaks, deep reese bass and haunting sci-fi atmospheres. 

This is something I had planned a very long time ago - I had a rough tracklist written down with reasons for each position, limited to 70-ish minutes to be hypothetically written to CD! It was partly inspired by this being my favourite era of drum and bass, despite still loving stuff right up to the present day (and future!), and partly by a few tracks and mixes, specifically: Shadow Boxing / Secrets in particular, John B's recent and fantastic Wormhole old skool techstep mix that has alas disappeared off Youtube, The Prototype Years album, and the Torque album (still a classic to this day even if I only included one track)

I'm bloody chuffed with this to be honest. Sure it's simple, but I've put lots of thought and inspiration into the tracklist and ordering, and if I found this online, it would be one of my favourite "mixes" ever, just for the track selection. Even after so many partial listens during hours of chopping away in Audacity, I still enjoy it - and feel like it is a creative venture overall, and one that I'm most proud of, along with my, which I view in a similar way. I guess I do other creative stuff like toy soldiers and sporadic game map design, bit there's something about the aforementioned edits that are special to me.

I say "semi-mix" because I'm not a DJ and can't really mix, but there are some aspects I think are close enough to mixing and work pretty well, here's a few thoughts from the process:

Segues / tracks of note:

Terrorist > Pulp Fiction
This was the first bit I ever tried, just having two Youtube videos playing side by side and quickly pausing one and playing the other to see if the drop worked, and it did! I couldn't get the original version of Terrorist but the updated revamp works fine I think.

Shadow Boxing remix > Your Sound remix 
The second bit I planned, I remember John Peel playing SB remix and commenting on the notorious "record fuck up" section, and I knew I had to do something with that, and it happens that YS remix also has a vaguely similar section, so it's almost like a rewind, -ish ;)

Sonar > Lost In New York
The worst / crudest segue of the lot I think. LINY had to go in and this seemed the best spot but the structure of the two tracks is so different there's little I could work out. I think LINY into Still works pretty well though.

DJ SS - Lost In New York - I never heard this in any mixes except one on a magazine cover CD, and I think it's brilliant, heavy and well crafted and highly atmospheric, it had to go in.

Edtrafienical > Secrets
I thought this would "mix" well given that both tracks have distinct and clear 2-step beats, but somehow the edits in Secrets made it really tricky to get the right bit. In the end I'm really pleased that it worked.

The Raven > Mute
Another bit I'm really pleased with, a simple "mix" but the 2 step beats from Mute just fit surprisingly well with the bassline of Raven

To Shape The Future > TSTF remix > TSTF amen mix
Surely one of the greatest things in the history of DnB?? 3 bloody brilliant and surprisingly diverse track versions. I bloody love the drop into the amen mix :D

Equinox - Some Kind Of Illusion - a bit more laid back for the era, early stripped back breakage, from the birth of Renegade Hardware.

Rob & Goldie - The Shadow (Process mix) - this was on a Moving Shadow special 100th release EP, and the full track is a 9 minute epic with a massive intro build-up. Amazingly it's a remix by Rick Smith from Underworld (I'm not a fan myself) and is proper classy.

Embee - Fractured Soul - another one I never heard in a mix but I really love the combination of playful, almost delicate beats and noises, with those occasional waves of absolutely apocalyptic amens.

Cybin - Roller - this featured on John B's Wormhole mix, but I've loved it for many years from an Emcee records Knowledge mix CD. Huge energy and ridiculous bass that I had to keep toning down after testing in the car.

Dom & Roland - Imagination - a bit cheeky as this is just outside the specified era but it captures and refines all the dark techstep facets of that era perfectly into one of my favourite tracks. So much so that instead of the very natural ending at the main breakdown, I had to let the whole the play out to earworm everyone to fuck :D.

Enjoy :)

Source: Creative Urges (http://)
Title: fiendblogThe Wedge Keeps Thickening...
Post by: comPiler on July 13, 2021, 07:01:09 pm
The Wedge Keeps Thickening...


...thickening like a fat greasy chode, which pretty much sums up the state of the climbing scene.

Yes. Ken was right after all. Bellowing like Canute at the ceaseless tide of crap new bolts surging towards his sandcastle, but he had a point. All the wedge-deniers - you're wrong. It is happening, it is here, the bolts are here. The wedge has thickened from additional sport climbs to re-equipping of sport climbs to sporadic retro-bolting of mostly fixed gear routes to straight out full on retro-bolting of good reasonably protected trad routes. 

I do fucking loads of sport climbing throughout the UK both as training for trad and for an inherently strong pleasure in it's own right. I thoroughly appreciate proper sport crags, proper re-equipping of shoddy old sport routes that are mostly run-outs on caving bolts and bits of coathanger, and sometimes obvious and justifiable retro-bolting of neglected trad routes that were full of fixed gear, never really offered a satisfactory trad experience (and indeed were closer to sport experiences when first put up before the fixed gear rotted).

I am profoundly less convinced when this bolting fervour sweeps onto good and protectable trad routes. And the more I explore around the lime, the more I see this happening all over... E.g.

Attermire
Almost completely retrobolted away from the main crag, including classic HVS/E1s that if not fully retroed have been compromised by bolts. 

High Stony Bank
Some good new sport additions, but stuff like Oedipus, which was on my list after seeing a photo, has been lost to bolts despite following an attractive flake crack system.

Lower Pen Trwyn
I took my rack down to do Jacuzzi Jive and Twisting By The Pool that I've always wanted to do (I've got them earmarked in North Wales Rock from a decade ago).... And they've been retroed too. As it happened I pretty much did Twisting By The Pool on trad, but caved in and clipped one bolt to back up the wire on the headwall crux, I'm dropping one E-grade off for that. Aside from that one move it is perfectly well protected with wires and a perfect waste having it as another F6b+ on a crag that really doesn't need that many of them.

Marine Drive
Whilst Beaverbrook might arguably be a sensible retrobolting proposition compared to it's previous mono-peg incarnation (somewhat out of character with the generally reasonably protected routes around there), Pure Mania further around is definitely NOT. I lead this a couple of years ago, and in character for the crag it was a great wee trad experience, a bit run-out, a bit thoughtful, a bit technical. Just a proper good trad route. Now it's a line of fucking bolts. 

The latter examples particularly baffling / infuriating. Pen Trwyn has, in my experience, always been a bastion of balance, a showcase of trad and sport sitting side by side, with neither impinging on the other, where you can have great experiences of both genres right next to each other, (and where the quality of the rock and climbing transcends Pete's miserly understarring ;)). It should have stayed as that great example, rather than another example of insidious wedge-thickening. 

What next?? Melkor has a thread in and most nearby routes are partly bolted - should that be another F6b-ish thing?? No. Fuck that, it's a lovely trad climb, I did it last week as a warm-down in the evening sun and wouldn't have wanted a single bolt other than the lower-off. It won't happen, huh?? It already IS fucking happening...

I always suggest the first and most important course of action should be:

1. Thoroughly clean the route up including removing vegetation and loose rock, scrubbing and chalking the holds (yes, some effort, but less, and much cheaper, than retro-bolting).

2. Replace essential fixed gear with like-for-like if possible. Install lower-offs if the finishing terrain is too appalling (as it sometimes gets).

3. Publicise the route(s) all over. Get some nice photos of people leading them in a pristine state. Shout it from the social media roof-tops. Write an article for UKWebanpeopleunjustifiably.com, update the logbooks.

4. In short, give the trad routes, and trad climbers, a fighting chance BEFORE reaching for the drill.

In the meantime I'm either going to have to get on any limestone trad routes pretty damn quickly. Or buy a re-chargeable angle grinder. Suggestions on a postcard...

P.S. Vaguely on topic, here's a disgruntled miserable old sport-hating trad dinosaur in action:

The Bloods  - I've wanted to do this for a while since the rather evocative photo of Redhead on it in ...And One For The Crow (my 3rd tick in the book after Poetry Pink and Young And Easy... , I probably won't get many more!!). In the accompanying essay / demented rambling, he says it was first done with two bolts, then ended up with 7 bolts and a lower off. It's actually only 5 bolts and a lower off and is still a bit run out for a sport route at the start, middle, and finish. Should this have been left as a sparsely bolted semi-trad route?? I don't know - would it have provided a good, intricate, nut-slotting, committing trad experience?? It didn't look like it, but if someone had chosen to take a strong stand for it, that would be fair enough.

Julio Juventus - partly done because a friend was on the first half (a very logical pitch in it's own right) and partly done to avoid failing to flash Axle Attack or Mayfair! I somehow scraped through this one despite botching the my feet on the first crux and simply not having enough feet on the second crux, thus having to skip an unfeasible clip, and I got away with it and was pretty chuffed with my commitment. No idea about a previous trad / semi-trad status of this one. 



Source: The Wedge Keeps Thickening... (http://)
Title: Re: fiendblogCreative Urges
Post by: cowboyhat on July 13, 2021, 07:53:34 pm
Creative Urges

"https://www.youtube.com/embed/N3rHuFlghJs"

Thats fucking bangin, chapeau.

I went to uni in '97, made friends with some Londoners and they introduced me to doc scott and spring heeled jack; my socks flew off and haven't been seen since.
Title: Re: fiendblogThe Wedge Keeps Thickening...
Post by: petejh on July 13, 2021, 09:11:20 pm
Quote
.. (and where the quality of the rock and climbing transcends Pete's miserly understarring ;)).

Hehe!
Better to under-promise and over-deliver..
Basically on pen trwyn if you pick a route at your grade with a star you’ll likely have a good experience. And if the unstarred route next to it looks like it’s worth getting on, then it probably will be.

Agree with you about Pure Mania. I led it trad years ago and felt a bit sad when I heard it had been retro’d. I remember thinking it wouldn’t add any quality to that part of the crag as another unremarkable low 6. Some poor and short-sighted judgement there imo. Don’t agree so much regards LPT. Perhaps you felt that way because like you say you’d built up expectations and a certain idea of the routes from the E4 ticklist in n.wales rock. Other climbers coming along now won’t have those expectations as they’ll expect a grade 6. They were decent as trad, but it always felt like a chore to bother going down there with a rack and a trad head on when the crag is 99% about sport climbing. You could go to 5 better trad crags within 5 minutes walk/drive.
Different feel about upper pen trwyn, which still feels like a trad crag if you just want to go tradding there - as many people do. But then that’s where the wedge argument comes in..

I have a battery angle grinder - if you want it to fight off locals while you rewild the environment.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2021, 03:42:02 pm
I've never climbed anything I'd really consider loose, so intrigued as to setting off into terrain like that Trwyn Maen Melyn without a helmet?

Otherwise good interesting blogging.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 17, 2021, 10:34:39 am
Cheers Chris, Pete, and especially cowboyhat  :punk:

Chris: no logical reason, just personal preference. TMM is not nearly as loose as it looks and generally if I might be doing some careful dismantling en route, it's less likely to drop on me from a great height. On almost all routes there one naturally belays off to one side too.
Title: fiendblogYou Should Have Seen The Looseness Of The One That Got Away...
Post by: comPiler on July 29, 2021, 01:11:01 am
You Should Have Seen The Looseness Of The One That Got Away...


Recently I've had some setbacks with my amateur chossaneering. I seem to have come up with an abrupt wall where the gentle terrain of "Big G grading routes quite softly in his later climbing years" suddenly rears up into daunting scenarios of "Big G grading routes in direct comparison to his multiple Gogarth E7 6b roof crack heyday", and unlike the rock in reality, this particular wall doesn't seem soft or wobbly enough to pull a few bits off and sneak around it. Thus I'm running out of routes I can pretend my way up by climbing very slowly and gently and ignoring the dubious structural integrity, and starting to be faced with things that are actually hard. And then there are other issues with off-piste routes that don't get nearly the repeats they deserve:


The latest shambles looked a bit like this:

Dichotomous, The Range - superb bit of rock in a superb situation. The first two superfluous pegs I pulled out by hand. The essential gear protecting the crux along an expanding undercling finger flake with lichenous smearing consisted of the one remaining bendy peg with rust flaking off it and a missing RURP. The long fall from here would leave on having to be lowered into the sea. I bailed.

The Blue Horse, Porth Dafrach - Warming up on Caff's minor sandbag DAME was fun. Feeling the greasy flakiness at the start of The Blue Horse and trying to envisage the brutal laybacking required for upwards/outwards progress along with protecting the whole sheningan was less fun. I bailed.

Angel Of The West, The Range - On paper this is a mere half a grade harder than Surreal Estate that had been a perfectly charming womble the previous day. In reality it must be a good 3 grades harder. I have looked at AOTW from many angles on 4 visits, and have been doing specific training for it on The Depot roof and The Boardroom DWS roof, and it still looks utterly and incomprehensibly outrageous. I bailed (but I'm still thinking about the fucking thing).

Three Day Event, Porthllechog - more like Three Metre Event as that's about how high I got up it. Somewhat more conventional in angle and situation than the other routes but, well, my guts had been bad that morning (for absolutely no fucking reason), the refreshing breeze all day had dropped in time for my attempt, there seemed to be plant life covering crucial holds, I'm a wimp, etc etc. I bailed.


---


Anyway, all of this got me thinking, thinking about some proper choss, proper potentially wonderful routes, and the Top Three That Got Away, which goes a bit like this....

Gold, North Pembroke
Wow. Okay. This one. Honestly, if I'd got up this (a one star route at a grade I've done dozens of), it could have been the route of my life. Rainbow Zawn looks quite impressive from the side....but from below, it's unbelievable. It was genuinely hard to take in how impressive and intimidating it looked - constantly overhanging end-on strata of culm sandstone and shale. I battled for an hour up the first pitch to find that a section through an overhang (shared with an E3 5b!!) was missing and I couldn't work out how to climb it. I left a wire and krab in-situ and this update for UKHitlering (which never made it on afaik)

"An epic climb that is one of the easiest (!) lines up a shocking cliff. Originally graded E4, the first pitch has lost holds including at least one crucial ledge, and it is a very different experience to South Stack / Lleyn / Craig Llong E4s. The end-on shale strata are ungenerous with holds so expect an awesome adventure with hard, strenuous climbing as well as the obligatory loose rock, rope-cutting edges, rusty pegs and sandy cracks."

I still regret not doing it.

Back To The Old Ways, Atlantic Coast
Immortalised on film with me backing off it, tail firmly between stockings. A very cinemogenic King Line chosen for Cheque's Seaside, as a light digestif to accompanying Duncan on Eroica (and the bugger calmly encouraging me onto Black Magic despite my qualms). Alas it wasn't meant to be, the choss quotient was perfectly fine (in it's own shaley way) but the much-harder-than-graded climbing with much-smaller-than-required gear was a bit too much. A pity as it really did look ace.

Kelly's Eye, Lleyn
A recent inspiration and retreat. A great bit of rock in a lovely wee zawn, but this time whilst both the climbing and gear on the first pitch seemed manageable, the choss was in full effect with almost everything feeling crunchy, or wobbly, or indeed both. Yes, I backed off the first 5a pitch, but abbing down (with the lone belay stake reassuringly backed up by the dog stake), the two 5b pitches looked just as hard and terrifying as they did from the slope opposite. I suppose when someone (Littlejohn) who has been E6 new-routing for decades, including the Lleyn, warns that "some of the rock requires a light touch", I should probably be extra wary despite the lowly grade. So the right decision, but still disappointing. 

---

Back to the present day. It feels a bit weird to run out of inspiration at The Range. I do love it there. So gentle and peaceful and beautiful and weird and sketchy on the routes. But there's odds and sods to pop in for, and other coastal gems to explore and the bird bans are off South Stack this weekend... I just need to get some fucking confidence back as it's taken a bit of a beating with these retreats, my digestion being up and down, my sport fitness going to pot (too much amateur chossaneering, sigh), etc etc. Fingers crossed.



Source: You Should Have Seen The Looseness Of The One That Got Away... (http://)
Title: fiendblogMini-Adventures #3
Post by: comPiler on August 02, 2021, 01:01:32 am
Mini-Adventures #3

 
Although things ground to a bit of a halt on a recent (pre-heatwave!) trip, there was still some fun to be had. The pictures can do most of the talking:

Looking straight down to a shell glued to a vertical face by the very edge of it's shell!

View out from Porth Dafrach. So many lovely and intriguing inlets headlands and zawns.

Rhoscolyn lighthouse and the Llyn.

Moonrise over Porthllechog

Big skies over The Range all the way to The Llyn.

Dickhead.

An anchor without a dog stake is an anchor without dignity.


Crazy Horse, Porthllechog. A Nick Bullock "decomposing wide crack". Amenable standard but good, thought-provoking fun.


Dichotomous / Dai-Version, The Range. This was actually on the failed attempt on the former, but the latter meets it at exactly this point so I figure it's okay. A great and substantial route that is less mini than some hereabouts.


Dame, Porth Dafrach. A minor Caff sandbag, good adventurous fun in a lovely location. Just look at the rock architecture!


Surreal Estate, The Range. A minor Big G ultra-soft touch, but guess what, yes it was fun too, and in a cool setting too!


So that was that. Since then it got hot, it got showery, I got back on the sport, I got back to the indoor wall, I had an epiphany that I've got physically weak due lack of any actual strength training and pushing redpointing, I had an epiphany that I've got mentally weak after starting re-reading The Rock Warriors Way and a mere 10 pages in realising my mindstate had gone awry on almost all counts. Lots to work on there....


Source: Mini-Adventures #3 (http://)
Title: fiendblogAnd thus it begins...
Post by: comPiler on September 03, 2021, 01:00:46 am
And thus it begins...



T = 0
I'm sat on a slope of tumbling tussocks, 20m above the sea, 70m below the crag top, looking out at a rising trench of steep silt with little sign of protection nor security, and I'm terrified. Unusually, rarely, I don't want to be here. A non-trivial percentage of my brain wants to scramble out and haul up the ab rope. My confidence has been very vague this summer, I'm fed up of being stressed and scared - not of the climbing, but of my own mental fragility. But....maybe I could just pull on the first holds, see if I can move...

T +1.2hrs
I'm sat on a small pedestal at the top of the silt trench, anchored in to abstract ironmongery hammered into dust, and I feel sick with fear. Well, partly fear and partly my guts playing up after wolfing down an emergency egg breakfast. The fragility is still there - if I struggled to cope with the easy intro pitch, how can I cope with the main pitches?? Maybe it's best to finish up an easier version, maybe I could cope with that. Except I'd have to do it all again at some point in the future. But....the next "poor rock" section looks easier, and I can see some resting spots to aim for...

T +1.4hrs
I've just pulled onto a thin wall, out of the steep looseness, and onto terrain that intimidates me just as much - sheer and smooth and supposedly sustained. But....I'm hanging on okay, I'm trusting small finger flakes, small foot edges, a good small nut next to me....I'm no longer scared....I'm curious, I'm inspired, I'm becoming happy....

( T +2.5hrs - the above photo )


T +4hrs
I'm sat on a dusty crag top, belaying, diligently taking the the ropes at constantly contrasting paces to best protect my partner on the bewilderingly weaving top pitch. I'm mostly.....surprised. Surprised I could cope with the initial reluctance, especially surprised I could transmogrify from that fear and nervousness to genuine pleasure in the middle pitch. Pagan isn't the hardest route I've done (nor the hardest this year, nor the hardest on South Stack), but it is one of the hardest that I've ever climbed when I've been so lacking in confidence - confidence being one of the essential pre-requisites (along with a light touch, trad nouse, and a lot of cams, rather than physical prowess) for this sort of terrain. I'm still not quite sure how it happened...

Expansive.

The mildly horrifying ""E3 5b"" first pitch. 50% of the climbing on this pitch you could have a nasty accident on.

The completely fine and normal first belay. "Yes we could sling together the 3 pegs in siltstone and abseil off into the sea to escape".

~~{§}~~


Meanwhile, a few weeks earlier....

As chance would have it, I started the Red Wall campaign nicely early this year, scarcely a few days after the bird ban was off. Gogarth South became my constant literary companion...

I've always particularly loved the second paragraph :)

Looking down to Left Hand Red Wall, about to do Left Hand Red Wall. Another traumatic start off the tussocky ramp!

LHRW was a stern reacquaintance with the terrain, but pretty good. But not as good as Television Route which was bloody marvellous, surely one of the best single pitches in the whole UK. The tricky climbing on this 45m route starts at about the 3m mark and eventually eases off at the 43m mark, and on the way takes in a massive variety of steep, committing, wobbly, technical and constantly interesting climbing. World class.

Incidentally the description is quite inaccurate so have a proper one:

Television Route E4 5c *** 45m
Start by the two loose spikes. Just to the right is a groove, follow it, passing a few rusty relics from the original aided ascent. Surmount a loose bulge to gain a better crack and step right to an improvement in rock quality and more bolt heads. Continue on easier ground with little gear to an overhung red niche in the groove, and make crux moves around the right edge of the overhang via a "thank god" jug. Move up to the where the groove steepens again, and step right to a rib and spike holds, then trend left and finish up the continuation groove, past the last remnants of scrap metal.

However there weren't enough sandy troughs on TR, so I had to go back and do Last Of The Summer Wine, a lesser-rated but quite quintessential Red Wall experience, as seen below:

"Moon cheese" according to Andy McBiscuit. Mars cheese according to me!!

The usual view of the usual situation.

Recovering after the "very exciting" start to pitch 3 - right limbs on overhanging flanges of quartz, left limbs on fins of silt. All quite emotional. Above this it was a typically brilliant finish up steady steepness - the final straits of these routes are invariably euphoric.

~~{§}~~

So, if everyone can forgive a bit of numerical masturbation, and very much taking into account the start of this post where I fully explicated my weakness, that makes it 5 out of 5 successes on  Red Wall E4s (the others being Cannibal and Rapture Of The Deep), and 9 out of 9 successes overall on South Stack (adding in Hysteresis on Mousetrap, Dogs Of War and 93,000,000 Miles on Yellow Wall, and Natalie in Natalie Zawn). I will aim to do Kalahari Highway to get to a nice round number and have something on Castle Helen, but of course the post-bird-ban stuff has been a priority recently. What that all means I don't really know (especially since one generally steps onto these crags with enough in hand that failure is unlikely, or were it to happen one is unlikely to be around to blog about it afterwards!), but given my passion for the area it's something worth celebrating??

Thanks to Jodie and Jordan for accompanying me on these shenanigans.



Source: And thus it begins... (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 03, 2021, 10:50:05 am
I only seconded Television route but completely agree, one of the best pitches I've done at Gogarth. Having only got on Red Walls in the last decade, the amount of good rock was a big surprise. It's definitely not all dusty chimneys - upper left-hand is more like granite.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Bonjoy on September 03, 2021, 12:09:44 pm
I also concur that TV Route has a useless description in the guide.  I ended up off route, then took a lob when a foothold broke whilst trying to reverse out of a blind alley. Ended up climbing out up increasingly spooky no-man's land somewhere left of the route. A fortifying experience all in all. Would like to go back and climb the actual route at some point!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: cheque on September 03, 2021, 02:16:18 pm
The name’s a great reminder that aided first ascents used to be on national telly too.  :lol: Has anyone ever seen the footage?
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on September 03, 2021, 03:12:35 pm
Great blog Matt. Kind a helps me remember who I am - seriously.
Sea cliff adventures, the greatest play time ever!
It's not often you're reminded of what it's like to wake up having dreamed about it either.

Always wanted to do Television Route. There's something about it that captures the imagination and evocativeness of the old guidebooks - a bit like the old description of routes at Blackchurch in Devon.
Too many photos in modern guidebooks!

Pagan is an amazing route isn't it!
Did that with Dave Pegg years ago, on one of his visits back to the UK from the States. A treasured memory of a dear friend.
I loved the belay between the first pitches. I seem to remember some good flakes and a large cam in the rock that looks like corrugated cardboard up to the R.
We'd chosen one of the hottest days at the time to do it.

Thank you  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 03, 2021, 03:23:03 pm
The name’s a great reminder that aided first ascents used to be on national telly too.  :lol: Has anyone ever seen the footage?
I did search for it and couldn't find anything alas.

Cheers DT90  :) I do love the stuff, despite not always being ready for it. I'm going to keep coming back for routes regularly. The first Pagan belay was indeed a relatively comfy one and quite adequate with the large cam backing up the cheese pegs.
Title: fiendblogMoonboard? Manorboard!
Post by: comPiler on September 09, 2021, 07:00:12 pm
Moonboard? Manorboard!

 

Power-to-weight is a constant battle. Too little of the former, too much of the latter. The latter I can do very little about as the DVTs prevent easy CV exercise and the b0rked digestion (and healthier diet to try to alleviate it) simultaneously gives me lower energy without any weight reduction. I once asked an established climbing coach I met at the crag about the general issue, and the short answer was "It's fine to be really heavy, you just have to be really fucking strong too", and the disclaimer "The trick is to get strong without getting injured". I haven't booked a masterclass quite yet. 

But yes the former I can at least try to do something about and maybe I should try a bit harder instead of spinning the ledge shuffling and esoteric bouldering and quick easy redpoint plates. Actually, I have lost a couple of kilos this summer (a dozen to go...), and this is almost entirely due to some hefty days out combining ledge shuffling with inimical walking. One edge of this sword is a tiny improvement in fitness and lightness, the other edge is a severe blunting of any power. Hauling my carcass up to Dow for two 6A+ moves, or a full day trudging back and forth around The Range doesn't actually get you strong, who would have thought it?? And when the buffer between my sport / bloc ability and my trad desires often feels as thin as a midge's scrotum, there's something to heed there.

A while ago I realised how dire the situation was that I was a solid grade and a half below my redpointing at this time last year, despite not having the restrictive nonsense of a spring lockdown to crawl back from. By chance the revamped Awesome Stockport bouldering room has a vastly better selection of holds and problems on nice angles, the same terrible decor and ear-vomittingly awful dad rock soundtrack, AND a new Moonboard with wooden holds, which lured me in with promises of a convenient skin-friendly power top-up. 

Naturally I took to this like a cat to water, although admittedly it was as much an issue of the constant "so farcical it's gone beyond hilarious and back around into tediously unfunny" pseudo-grading, the common terrible setting by morons who should be blocked off the MB app, and the often entirely useless feet-follow-hands style which given the larger holds on the easier problems reduces most situations to neanderthal lurching between relative jugs whilst pretending that "finger strength" and "core tension" are not relevant things to be trained. But at least the app makes it vaguely easy to sift through all the dross that actually gets in the way of training to find the occasional sandbag gem that might actually get me stronger. 

After a few sessions moaning my way through the 40° steepness I didn't feel any weaker, so en route back to Gogarth for some Red Walls trough squirming I stopped off at Manor Crag which has always looked fairly aesthetic for limestone. Given the angle of the place I had initial hopes that it could be a good test to see if the Moonboard had given me any hint of a power top-up, but on first viewings I remembered this same angle is my definite anti-style and resigned myself to merely getting a workout failing on everything, and at least it's more scenic than the AWMB. 

But then this happened....


....which was quite a shock to me. I know, climber in "trains a bit on a steep board and then does okay on steep board-ish style climbs" shocker, hold the fucking press. Actually in terms of tackling challenges, this is one of my very best bouldering days out ever, it didn't even feel like a training day because it was over so quick. A few notes: Jawa I missed the flash simply because I forgot my planned sequence and where to bump my hand to. Patch's Crack I missed the flash because I didn't seat the hand jam right a couple of times. Cracked Roof I missed the flash because I didn't get my thumb fully in the jam first time - all very close things!! All very good fun too.

Anyway recently I went back on the Moonboard a couple of times, there's a Font """""6B+""""" that I've tried at least a few times each session for 6 sessions now. I'm almost close. Almost. 



Source: Moonboard? Manorboard! (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Duma on September 09, 2021, 09:21:20 pm
Nice Matt, good to see the MB paying off!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 09, 2021, 09:31:22 pm
I certainly feel I plateaued on it in about 3 sessions!!

Apologises that this blog is mostly a rehash of my previous moaning on here and my previous video on here  :ninja:
Title: fiendblogShadows of hope.
Post by: comPiler on September 20, 2021, 01:00:05 pm
Shadows of hope.

 
The moments of light that shine through the darkness are real and wonderful, but sporadic.


"You seem to still be ticking off a lot of crags/routes on your list. Good work."

...said Biscuit. Oh how social media lies, even if you don't use cuntstagram. Show a few half-decent shots, write a couple of blog posts, celebrate the occasional success, and it all looks fine on the surface. People can assume it's representative, that it's all going well, a general trend of success and satisfaction. The bigger picture is of course bigger, and sometimes blander, and sometimes bleaker. 

The reality is ticking off very few routes of my list, and even fewer of the most inspiring and challenging ones. The shown successes are also real, but circumstance and self-timer means a disproportionate amount of showing off. There's not really a hidden iceberg of further successes beneath the photographic tip, instead it's a dark pool swirling with depression, disorganisation, de-confidence. 

Funnily enough this is not the sort of DMac style depression that gets you running up Ben Nevis on rest days. I've never encountered that sort of depression, I'd love to get hold of some. Okay so no amount of mental bleakness is going to overcome fluid mechanics and get me fell-running by pure magic, but obsessive training / physical activity depression?? Much better than the common-or-garden hiding-under-the-duvet-hoping-either-the-world-fucks-off-or-you-do depression. The latter really doesn't get you fit nor strong for climbing. And interval timer shots of someone staring at their phone for hours, desperately trying to summon up the courage to get in contact with someone or make a plan to get away, doesn't get you many "likes" on FB....


"It IS supposed to be fun, climbing...." 

...said Reeve. And indeed it is fun. Lots of fun. Type 1 or below fun (even if it sometimes takes a bit of Type 1.5 to overcome to get there), that's why I go on Red Walls and The Range, not hanging off bolts at The Tor, nor winter fucking mountaineering (the latter being Type 3 fun - the only pleasure coming from finally stopping it and forgetting the horror).

The problem comes when a lot of fun comes from the challenge, and the challenge is is a huge motivator and also big and scary and that's quite off-putting for the mind, and when the mind is as dysfunctional as mine can be, well, the mental processes are Not Fun - trying to get to grips with the fun is not fun. The desire is very strong and very authentic and gets proven so on the rare occasions I get to grips with those challenges and pull through them. Almost inevitably no matter how daunting the prospect or tortuous and convoluted the process to get there, the actual climbs and experiences that I've somehow ended up fixating on are really wonderful. But fuck me it would be easier if they were easier.... But then I wouldn't want to do them as much. FFS.

So this somewhat tedious post (yes, I'd much rather be writing about sandy troughs, but I am allowed to express these issues, just as you're allowed to "smash" the back button on your browser so quickly it counts as fast twitch muscle training, at any rate I'm hoping that expelling some of this discordant mental shit will be as relieving as when my bowels expel their discordant bacterial shit at higher and scarcely less readable velocity) bookends the summer with the more positive glimmers of hope I initially felt. It's been up and down, there's definitely been some good stuff, and definitely some bad stuff, most of it inside my head. I'm just keeping plodding on, trying to stay focused when I can, trying to stay accepting when I can't, trying to keep moving because that all adds up in the end. 


Source: Shadows of hope. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: fatneck on September 20, 2021, 03:29:00 pm
You are allowed to express these emotions and thank you for doing so. Honesty is under-rated in most facets of life and climbing is no exception!  :wub:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: sxrxg on September 20, 2021, 10:24:01 pm
Thanks for this post/blog. I have had a summer where I haven't climbed for the best part of 2 months. After 10 years of climbing 3/4 times a week and only the odd week off here and there it has been a huge change. I am only just now realising that it has been fueled by a bit of mental darkness, life pressures and finding it difficult not progressing at climbing when the currated version online everyone looks like they are constantly achieving. Slowly with the temperatures and changing of the seasons the psyche is returning though and I have actually made the effort to get on my home board this evening, I am looking forward to feeling heavy from the over eating, struggling with my strength and understanding that with work I can feel the flow and strength I once took for granted. Onwards and (hopefully) upwards!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 21, 2021, 10:05:44 am
Thanks fatneck and sxrxg. Sxrxg, good luck to you, yes hopefully getting back into it will bring some momentum and progression (from inevitable initial weakness but noticeable improvement from there, as is usually the case). I am guilty of a curated online version (because I just like sharing stuff and writing about experiences, especially lesser known ones) but although there is some constant achievement of being out on rock (or silt!), there is definitely a difficulty not progressing maintaining behind that, which is what I wasn't showing.


Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: fatneck on September 22, 2021, 08:20:34 am
I to have had a total break from climbing over the summer. It's becoming a bit of a pattern and I'm learning to not stress too much about it. It's a busy family time and I find myself more drawn to dawn fishing sessions that sweating my bollocks off trying to climb.

Glad to hear some motivation returning Ste  :great:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: shark on September 22, 2021, 10:07:28 am
I’ve found it a real struggle this summer trying to climb hard in crappy conditions constantly reminding myself it’s all good prep for when the temps drop which is all true but has kicked a lot of the joy out of my motivation. Resolved next summer to do fun stuff and keep the flame alive.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 22, 2021, 10:48:19 am
For my shuffles the conditions have perhaps been less off-putting, except I guess dealing with tidal issues / sea-grease, or conversely blazing sun-traps (lol, just re-reading, that's pretty much the same as you, Shark!), the weather certainly has been generally quite benevolent overall for a British summer. The mini-heatwaves are certainly quite off-putting though and I definitely try to take a clear step back during those, don't push things, don't stress about plans nor projects, and just try to keep moving and keep pushing my muscles a bit.

Banging ones head against a wall, whether it's rock conditions or mental conditions, does get draining and can overshadow the fun. It's important to step back and take it easy sometimes - BUT it can be very hard to find the balance, especially with strong desires, between that and also keeping some focus and determination. It's almost as if pushing yourself, and dealing with the mental side of that, is quite complicated  :blink:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: shark on September 22, 2021, 12:40:53 pm
It’s been the consistently high humidity that’s been a pain - especially for a dragger.

Next summer will make more of an effort to make better crag choices though that will probably mean going abroad. The Briancon area is good in summer. I’m told Verdon is too - though that seems unlikely.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on September 22, 2021, 01:44:27 pm
Verdon wouldn't be my first choice, unless you are happy chasing shade in the sheltered crags.

 
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: RobK on September 22, 2021, 01:50:19 pm
Would highly recommend the Briancon area. Went last summer and it was amazing. Gutted to not be able to get there this year due to not being able to get my vaccines sorted in time.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: abarro81 on September 22, 2021, 01:55:04 pm
Unless you get lucky, Verdon in summer will likely make UK conditions of the past 5 months look amazing. (Which I'd say they have been. Dry, not super hot, lots of wind from the east for Kilnsey... not sure you can get much better in the UK.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Wood FT on September 22, 2021, 02:19:02 pm
I’ve found it a real struggle this summer trying to climb hard in crappy conditions constantly reminding myself it’s all good prep for when the temps drop which is all true but has kicked a lot of the joy out of my motivation. Resolved next summer to do fun stuff and keep the flame alive.

Dws!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: remus on September 22, 2021, 02:23:22 pm
I’ve found it a real struggle this summer trying to climb hard in crappy conditions constantly reminding myself it’s all good prep for when the temps drop which is all true but has kicked a lot of the joy out of my motivation. Resolved next summer to do fun stuff and keep the flame alive.

Dws!

Preach it brother.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: jwi on September 22, 2021, 04:07:37 pm
I will have to join the sceptics for Verdon in the Summer.

My friend who lives just next to Verdon Gorge just spent three months in Germany and Sweden to escape the summer conditions at home...

I'd say that June is still OK if you are willing to risk getting caught in thunderstorms.

I guess Ramirole is better in Summer than most other times of the year due to the fact that it might actually be dry then. I would very much doubt it is good though.

Summer areas that I know of:

Céüse. Has been good the last two years due to travel restrictions keeping some of the worst behaving climbers away. Fully expect it to be as unfriendly as ever from next year on. Not actually that good conditions, and very short days, except for the Grande Face and Nitshapa sectors.

Briançon. Highest chance of actually good conditions. The climbing is not world class, but maybe world class in the subset of summer destinations.

Non-French Alps. Meh cragging but excellent mountainclimbing. Lots of rain. Really expensive, especially Switzerland.

Norway. Good conditions fairly likely but not completely guaranteed. Very far away. As expensive as Switzerland.

Bohuslän. See Norway, but slightly cheaper. Single pitch trad. Some sportclimbing

South Africa. Good conditions fairly likely not completely guaranteed. Very far away. The sport climbing is a bit meh... but loads to see outside of climbing. Cheap when you are there.

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 22, 2021, 04:27:52 pm
Shark if you're as rubbish at DWS as me, count me in for a DWS trip for the sheer horror of it (unlike these trendy yoofs like WFT and Remus smashing it out large on some banging sunbronzed DWS-fest). Also Bohuslan, always.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2021, 12:18:20 am
Come to Scotland, home of perma cool connies and even colder DWS.
Title: fiendblogMini-Adventures #4
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2021, 01:00:23 pm
Mini-Adventures #4

 
(Ab)normal service resumes??  They're getting mini-er and slightly less adventurous, but no less fun-spirited...



Fear Test, Rhoscolyn. A well-named wee route combining boldness with steepness, although thankfully not exactly at the same time. Hidden out of view just below me is an "alarmingly steep groove" that only partially lives up to that promise, having neither a good crack at the back nor enough angularity for good bridging at the front. It does have good holds which is quite welcome when fiddling in spaced and obtuse cams. Once this is dealt with, it is a matter of some elation popping through the steepest bulge out onto the biggest jugs and romping to the top. 

8b+ Reeve was trying to persuade me that this was a good option to warm-up and get inspired for Big Sunday E5 6a just to the left, equally alarming in angle but woefully lacking in any form of groove-based respite. Funnily enough 7b+ Fiend politely declined (okay, there was no politeness actually involved....).




Grazed And Confused, The Range. This is one of the mini-adventures of the year. One star, a completely wrong topo of an adjacent route, a hopeless description, and good potential to be lowered into the sea if you muff the crux. I was extremely close to backing off when the the last two factors saw me in a stable position but struggling to decide between a highly off-putting hard and protectionless roof above me or a highly offputting cramped traverse to swing blindly out in space to the right of me. Reeve was disarmingly cheery and encouraging on belay whilst I was sweating and stalling. Eventually the swing right was right and led to more comprehensible terrain and a feeling of "I'm not quite sure how I committed through that and ended up here but I'm bloody glad I did"

This route had it all packed into a compact size: interesting line, variety of climbing, essential Gogarth "hanging slabs" and "shuffling between roofs", funky rock, good gear where needed, the lurking zawn below... 

The correct description: 
From the palatial ledges, step down and traverse right on an easy slab until it is possible to pull up a blocky feature to beneath the main roof. Make an increasingly cramped traverse right and a committing swing around the corner to pull up onto easier ground on the grey corrugated slab. Climb through the weakness in the overlap above to finish up the yellow slab.



The Range at sunset - obviously the fantastic light came out just after all the climbing was finished!! This is mostly looking towards Emmenthal Zawn, Wensleydale Walls, and The Fortress on the right. Lurking out of shot are Housetrap Zawn, The Old Steam Piano, Curious Yellow, Daichotomous etc etc.



Cilan Head, looking North from Mur Y Fulfran. Cilan Main is partly tucked out of view just behind the brighter white patch that's just right of centre. Zawn Two is the shaded buttress nearer by with the diagonal top. This was taken from the very amenable (tidal considerations aside - yes it really is that bad for swell!) MYF - Cilan Lite at it's litest!


Cantre'r Gwaelod, Mur Y Fulfran. Silence Of The Clams climbs the chimney to the left, I'm Not Swimming Now climbs the stepped corner to the right. This is a rather fine route for anyone who is a fan of cranking through slabby bulges, as it mostly involves cranking through slabby bulges. This, and a couple of other cool little routes that we did, was disarmingly normal and conventional, despite the feeling of general wildness and "not like anywhere else" that the area has. Given the suntrap location there might be more mini-adventures here this autumn who knoweth....


Source: Mini-Adventures #4 (http://)
Title: Re: fiendblogMini-Adventures #4
Post by: Yossarian on September 25, 2021, 02:21:40 pm

</div><b>Fear Test, Rhoscolyn. </b>A well-named wee route combining boldness with steepness, although thankfully not exactly at the same time. Hidden out of view just below me is an "alarmingly steep groove" that only partially lives up to that promise, having neither a good crack at the back nor enough angularity for good bridging at the front. It does have good holds which is quite welcome when fiddling in spaced and obtuse cams. Once this is dealt with, it is a matter of some elation popping through the steepest bulge out onto the biggest jugs and romping to the top. <div><br />
</div><div>8b+ Reeve was trying to persuade me that this was a good option to warm-up and get inspired for Big Sunday E5 6a just to the left, equally alarming in angle but woefully lacking in any form of groove-based respite. Funnily enough 7b+ Fiend politely declined (okay, there was no politeness actually involved....).<div><br />

That looks totally awesome! Have just stuck a Post-It into my as yet unchristened North Wales Rock...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on September 25, 2021, 05:07:20 pm
It's only a minor wee 1 star route (especially compared to the splendour at the Rhoscolyn main cliffs) but it is good fun and characterful. There's a nice little HVS 4c to warm up on too if needed.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: shark on September 26, 2021, 08:34:41 am
I will have to join the sceptics for Verdon in the Summer.

My friend who lives just next to Verdon Gorge just spent three months in Germany and Sweden to escape the summer conditions at home...

I'd say that June is still OK if you are willing to risk getting caught in thunderstorms.

I guess Ramirole is better in Summer than most other times of the year due to the fact that it might actually be dry then. I would very much doubt it is good though.

Summer areas that I know of:

Céüse. Has been good the last two years due to travel restrictions keeping some of the worst behaving climbers away. Fully expect it to be as unfriendly as ever from next year on. Not actually that good conditions, and very short days, except for the Grande Face and Nitshapa sectors.

Briançon. Highest chance of actually good conditions. The climbing is not world class, but maybe world class in the subset of summer destinations.

Non-French Alps. Meh cragging but excellent mountainclimbing. Lots of rain. Really expensive, especially Switzerland.

Norway. Good conditions fairly likely but not completely guaranteed. Very far away. As expensive as Switzerland.

Bohuslän. See Norway, but slightly cheaper. Single pitch trad. Some sportclimbing

South Africa. Good conditions fairly likely not completely guaranteed. Very far away. The sport climbing is a bit meh... but loads to see outside of climbing. Cheap when you are there.

Hi Jonas

Sorry missed this before. Great advice as always.

Briancon has worked well for me before on family trips and like you say nothing world class but lots of excellent crags to choose from. Suspect it will be just myself and Sonia this time round as the kids will be 18-23 and will have the novelty of going in a camper van this time. Maybe do a road trip with Sonia and I hook up with others when she flies home.

Didn’t get on with the style of climbing or the walk in for Ceuse when I went 20 years ago. If it didn’t rain in Norway so much I don’t think I’d go anywhere else. Had two very memorable long trips when at Uni in the summer but it also involved extended periods of non-stop rain. Bohuslan and South Africa trad sound fantastic. Friends have raved about the quality. Definitely on the to do list when an opportunity arises.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: shark on September 26, 2021, 08:40:53 am
Shark if you're as rubbish at DWS as me, count me in for a DWS trip for the sheer horror of it (unlike these trendy yoofs like WFT and Remus smashing it out large on some banging sunbronzed DWS-fest). Also Bohuslan, always.

Yes. Scares the shit out of me too. Would really like to do Oz Traverse at Berry Head. Guess should explore Pembroke at some point. Saw Hickish at the Tor on Thursday and sounds like he’s spent a good portion of his summer there. Bohuslan - yess!!!! Let’s get planning some stuff together
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kingholmesy on September 26, 2021, 10:57:02 am
Oz Traverse at Berry Head is brill.

Having been out on the kayak, swimming and climbing on the cliffs near Carn Gowla at 8am this morning I was pleasantly surprised how warm the water is - a few more weeks left for DWS yet I reckon.
Title: fiendblogSolace??
Post by: comPiler on October 26, 2021, 01:00:28 pm
Solace??

 
So. I lost my confidence, I lost my motivation for organising away trips, I got depressed.

I came up with a cunning plan to deal with this: 

I delayed the climbing that I was struggling with, I put on hold the more complex trad challenges, relinquished them to next spring, and started to think about preparing for that in advance.

I gave myself a focus for training, taking a slightly longer term view to try to address my genuine need to have a bit more in reserve physically to tackle those challenges, and anticipating winter to be a good time for that.

I dialled my climbing back to something that was manageable but enjoyable and could contribute to progression: Logistically easy but physically challenging, mostly bouldering, often starting exploring Welsh limestone.

In short I sought solace in enjoying the physical aspect of climbing, whilst relaxing a bit and being patient and preparative.

...

Then I went bouldering on the top of the Little Orme on a bitterly windy day. One of the craglets had the cold wind raking along it and I had to wear a duvet jacket just to try to start climbing.  That was the sheltered crag - at the exposed one I could barely stand up to look at the lines and had to walk back at a 30' angle so I didn't get blown back to Manc. Back at the former I was looking for an autumn project to push myself on, and decided the best course of action was to warm up by vigorously brushing some holds (this did deceptively raise my core temperature), not tape my niggling elbow, and start working a 45' overhanging beyond-my-limit project move-by-move... 

Maybe I didn't notice how badly I'd aggravated my golfer's elbow because everything had gone numb?? Whichever way, I am a fucking idiot.

Solace - gone. Training plans - gone. Relaxation - gone.

Depression - back, with reinforcements and heavier anti-Fiend weapons.

The overall plan for this time had been: Get fitter, get stronger, get more powerful, get more confident physically, get better prepared for next trad season.

Now the imminent future is: Get less fit (and heavier?), get weaker, get less powerful, get more timid and much less confident physically, feel increasingly distant from any trad season.

...

What I'm doing of course is rehab (with good advice from Process), gentle climbing (at least gritstone bumblecircuits are quite pleasant, and indoor walls have plenty of slabs and non-pulling nonsense on them these days), keeping active by going out exploring, going to the gym, and focusing on the minimal things I can train: core, and especially flexibility. Interestingly since I've been doing less proper climbing and more of the latter, I've got all sorts of pains around my hips, buttocks, groin, knees etc. Nothing too inhibitive but extra physical niggles that actually I don't really need.

I still have the same cunning Plan B mentioned at the start of this post, but it's all pretty much delayed until I've healed my elbow to a manageable state. Thus any updates around here are going to be pretty sporadic, unless I find any ethics to rant about. Anyone seen any peg-bolted lower-offs recently??

Anyway here's a couple of things from the recent but very distant-seeming time when I only had mental inhibitions:

A nice little boulder problem.

A fairly mediocre video mostly due to the light and angles and forgetting my camera and using my phone fingertaped to a tripod, but it was only a few days before I properly aggravated my elbow and it does show I was pretty confident with both cranking up things and jumping off things (even though some of those drop-off landings felt as hard as the climber is heavy!!).



Source: Solace?? (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fultonius on October 26, 2021, 01:42:41 pm
 That's shite matt.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on October 26, 2021, 01:56:58 pm
The video?? I know, that's why I didn't even put it in the Non-quality thread...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: teestub on October 26, 2021, 02:09:55 pm
Hope the elbow heals up quick dude
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Stewart on October 26, 2021, 04:15:17 pm
Have you tried Tyler Twists Fiend? I had elbow problems for years, did these and normal climbing and it healed up in three weeks. Whenever i get a bit twingey i do a few more after climbing and it seems to sort it all out. Obviously that's just personal experience but worth a go if you haven't already tried them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtR8fYEUnXI
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on October 26, 2021, 05:42:23 pm
Cheers for the suggestion, that seems to be the same motion as standard eccentric wrist curls. Process has got me doing something a bit more specific for my situation but it's pretty similar rehab. My problem was being "a bit twingey" and in addition to doing a little bit of stuff to clear it up, I did an exceptionally unsuitable bouldering session that was the polar opposite of clearing it up  ::)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: scragrock on October 27, 2021, 08:54:00 am
Och Mat that Blows :'(
I feel for you i really do, i am aware of the long term health issues you battle through{which for those who understand make your climbing. Determination and focus all the more impressive} i get them too and as always they have a domino effect on mental health.
My latest was this- https://www.spinepainbegone.com/contents/back-pain-conditions/annular-tear (https://www.spinepainbegone.com/contents/back-pain-conditions/annular-tear) and it has taken 2 years to nearly recover from it {just age and blasting my body over the years}

OK so here is the positives.....im Not going to lecture you on plans and strategies as i suspect you know them all and have implemented them at some point.

You are Not alone so keep pushing through bud and we will cheer you on as you work your way back  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: tomtom on October 27, 2021, 11:10:32 am
Sorry to hear that Matt. That sounds shite :( You're welcome to give me a bell/message if you feel the need (long shot I know :D )

Theres infinity+1 'solutions' for golfers - but since I started doing basic TRX stuff (prone IYT's) 1-2 times a week (over the last 18 months - so the long haul..) mine has faded away and I now get no tweaks or even a tingle (still climbing the same steep board stuff that it didn't especially like before). Reverse wrist curls helped earlier - but I stopped them 6-9 months back.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 27, 2021, 01:04:26 pm
but since I started doing basic TRX stuff (prone IYT's)

You can do this pretty easily with a 1kg weight in each hand, face down on the floor with forehead resting on a cushion. Works well. I really believe strong shoulders are the way forward for healthy elbows.

Hope your elbow heals up soon (and don’t forget Dave Mac’s advice - whatever you do, keep climbing).
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: dunnyg on October 27, 2021, 01:26:59 pm
Perhaps it is all karma for slagging off someone's stannage VS punter style trousers  :whistle:

Focussing on the rehab and doing every possible(ish) thing for it helped me stay positive during injuries. More recently I found keeping a training diary allowed me to see the progress I've made on the rehab front.
Is also spent some time exploring dales backwaters on the hope of finding some amazing new blocks. I didn't find any true king lines, but did manage to scout out some crags which I later went back to develop.

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on October 27, 2021, 09:16:00 pm
Perhaps it is all karma for slagging off someone's stannage VS punter style trousers  :whistle:
Stanage MVS I thought, did you get them from Millets or the Aldi central aisle? And did Will make you agree to upgrade his board testpieces before he let you on in that attire?  ;) Anyway I was injured before he started tormenting me with videos of people cranking hard....

Thanks for the supportive words. It is sometimes quite weird writing these personal blogs knowing that they still get dragged from the ether and posted up on here (rather than just for people who actually follow links or choose to read them) to get dissected by innocent UKBers. I wish Blogbot dragged in more blogs if people still write them.... Just as weird when I seem to get away with it despite the moaning. It's actually inspired me to write something more productive.

My background health issues are not too problematic at the moment except a bit of queasiness, and I guess heaviness due to lack of CV makes me more injury prone but then again so does stupidity!! Although my elbow has been chronic, this re-injuring was definitely my own stupid fault.....the sort of mistake we all make I guess. Bad timing given my mindstate, but not that bad given it's coming into autumn and winter rather than before a trad season or big trip away or something...

(Scragrock that sounds grim, back stuff must be constantly infuriating...)

I am doing various things to cope with it, from the rehab that people have alluded to, to general conditioning and stretching, to going out exploring and cleaning things off and keeping in touch with the activity. All great advice. And yes keeping climbing regularly, easy stuff, controlled, non-explosive, keeping elbow stress in mind at all times.

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on October 28, 2021, 10:45:13 am
Tough times dude...

I know I take the piss out of you mercilessly but I also know how much injuries suck and how big a part climbing plays in your life/mental health etc. so I'm really sorry to hear this!

As I said to you the other day, feel free to hit me up for some easy grit action. Can't be arsed trashing myself bouldering these days (I just break!) but I'm well keen to explore some mid grade, elbow friendly problems with ya on a cold crisp weekday afternoon...

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: dunnyg on October 28, 2021, 07:00:36 pm
MVS, my bad, upgrading my punterlevel. The trous were free if that offers any redemption (though I did choose them...) I don't think I have any 2/3 stripe trackies, a la fiend fashion house, in stock, but I've got some chef trousers I could get will to stick some fingertape on. Will I make me climb harder? Or understand your music choices? I'll try anything...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on October 28, 2021, 09:07:05 pm
Seeing as you’re currently too broken to climb, can you drive to N.Wales, Western Ireland and the Antrim coast over winter and spend some time abseiling down potential projects cleaning off dirt and loose rock? I can then bolt them ready for *me* to climb in spring. I don’t see why this isn’t a perfectly good suggestion and a useful use of your time for the greater good of the scene.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on October 28, 2021, 09:55:39 pm
I could de-bolt the Rhoscolyn sport routes if that helps??

DunnyG - nothing will help with your last question. It's beyond comprehension and justification.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Will Hunt on October 29, 2021, 11:13:53 am
That was the dunny board, by the way. No such gangster rap in my garage.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 29, 2021, 11:45:29 am
now would be a very good time to explore Ashtanga yoga Fiend. I bet it would improve your climbing.
https://www.yoga-manchester.co.uk

Matt Ryan used to DJ at the Hacienda, if that helps? He's also completely unpretentious.  https://www.liambrowne.com/post/matt-ryan-hacienda-dj-to-ashtangi-yogi
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 03, 2021, 09:48:43 am
Thanks for the kind words people. Something relevant and potentially useful dropping soon.

MJR it's on the list of things to do, yes.
Title: fiendblogStrategies
Post by: comPiler on November 03, 2021, 01:00:05 pm
Strategies


I somehow got away with another moany, whiney, self-pitying and inanely negative AHEM I mean disarmingly honest which most climbers can identify with blog post. Not only that, I had some nice supportive words from people, which has nudged me towards doing something more productive with the topic. Thus, based on my own experiences: 


Some snappily-titled ideas of how to cope with physical and mental setbacks and disorders whilst trying to keep climbing...


Keep turning up / Get through each day
This is not as optimistic as "Keep turning up to some sort of climbing relevant activity", nor "Keep turning up to the crag", let alone "Keep turning up to your challenging project". It's more like keep turning up to life, get through each day, day by day. Unless you've got an illness more swiftly terminal than life itself, you can probably spare a few days, or weeks, or months, just to survive and cope with whatever issues you need to. The lost strength / fitness / confidence can be regained.....IF you're still alive, and have kept a basic amount of self-care (eating normally, sleeping, avoiding substance reliance, etc). 

A day where you can say "I'm still alive" at the end of it is good.
A day where you can say "I didn't do anything to worsen my physical / mental issues" is better.
A day where you can say "I did something, no matter how small, to alleviate / improve my issues" is better still.

It's pretty bleak being reduced to this level, but if you are, this is what you have to resort to. 


Just keep moving
We're motive beings attempting a motive activity / lifestyle. Even if we can't do anything specific or even supportive towards that activity, it is essential to keep moving, keep active, keep healthy. Both getting through the difficult periods will be easier if there's some form of exercise (endorphins / fresh air / less stiffness and aches and pains / easier rehab / better sleep / better appetite), and it will be better groundwork for recovery and regaining strength/fitness.

Yes, it's best if it's as close as possible to the desired activity, yes it's best if it's stimulating, enjoyable or progressive/training. But if it's not, just keep moving. Want to have a nice hard session cranking on plastic but your injury is so bad you can only go for a shitty road run?? That's moving, it's better than nothing. Want to go do some cool suntrap sea-cliff climbs but you're so cowed by depression you can't even message potential partners, and instead you book a fucking yoga class?? That's moving, it's better than nothing. Want to do 30 mins of beastmaking and you can only force yourself for a 10 min walk?? That's moving, it's - just about - better than nothing.


Beginner's mind
To try to retain some enjoyment in climbing, go back to basics. Go back to easy stuff. If all you can do is easy stuff, try to make the most out of that, and try to find what enjoyment and learning you can get from that. Yes easy moves suck and aren't nearly as stimulating as hard moves, but they can still be fun - it helps if you don't climb exclusively on limestone of course... Recapture what it was like before obsession progression and goal chasing, accept your new "reduced" state and work with that. Climb easy stuff well, climb it really well, focus on being in the moment and being in the movement. This might even be progressive for the future when you don't punt off the 5b slab on your s1ck pr0ject....


Diversify / Love the one you're with
In such dire circumstances it's highly unlikely that you'll be able to do the climbing you really desire (the same is governed by location and seasons too, of course). But if you can manage to do something, try to adapt your goals and your satisfactions to what is available to you. Climbing boils down to the act of moving over an impending surface and there are many ways to do that and hopefully many ways that some variant of that core motion can be enjoyable even if it's very distant from your specific aspirations. 

Try to focus down on aspects that can be pleasurable - the feel of the holds, the bite of an edge, the trusting of a smear, the changing of balance, the burning sensation in muscles, the flow of a sequence.

Or try to experiment with things you don't normally do. Jamming? Mantel practise? Coordination problems? Hands free problems? Falling practise? Beastmaker hang benchmarks?


See what else you can fix
If you're rehabbing from an injury, you're having to climb at a much gentler level, and you can't push your body as much, and certainly can't directly train as much. But no doubt there's other areas that you could progress with, to either fix other niggles and aches and pains, or to train supporting areas that could be beneficial in the future. Got a frustrating golfer's elbow tweak?? Maybe... look at that shoulder impingement at the same time, try to sort out that swollen PIP joint, do some work on the aching pelvic area, sore piriformis, and tweaky hip, do some stretching to ease up back mobility, and a lot more stretching to for general flexibility, keep working on core for body tension and legs for those rockovers (any correlation with what I'm personally trying to do is entirely coincidence....).


It's all in the mind
If you're rehabbing your mind, it can be a mighty fucking struggle. Sorry, I know it's bloody hard for anything to alleviate that. But I can reiterate just how much one's mindstate clouds judgement and perception and obscures the reality. In the midst of depression everything is viewed through a very bleak, very murky, very monochrome filter. But this IS just the filter. There's the reality, and there's how you perceive it. Knowing this logically won't help much when you don't feel it, but if it helps a tiny fraction, that's something. Trying to focus on objective realities of the situation, e.g. "It will take me 2 months to heal, and 2 months to regain strength, so in 4 months I will be physically back to normal" may help to cut through the bleakness, again a tiny fraction. Use any moments of alleviation in mood to check the reality and remind yourself what it's like without the filter.


Misery loves company
But it can also be diluted by it, and it can be important to stay social. Obviously this will vary from person to person but I think generally keeping involved with other people is regarded as a positive thing for most humans. Ideally the focus should be just about getting out (or in!) with people and sharing the activity, not about off-loading your woes (although almost everyone will be sympathetic to the usual climber injuries!!). Just hanging out (and doing some moves together) can alleviate issues a lot without even having to mention those issues. 

This does become a lot harder when it seems all of your friends / climbing partners are invariably busy, have their own groups / plans, don't receive messages, aren't in suitable locations, etc etc, and attempts at staying sociable fall on deaf ears. At these times it takes some persistence to keep banging your head against the wall - try to get something organised, get knocked back, pick yourself up, and do it all over again the next time. Obviously this is especially hard if you're already struggling, aside from simply being patient one possible idea is to try to habituate it and make it as much of a routine as rehab and some form of exercise.

An alternative is to keep part of the community even if it doesn't directly involve meeting other people. Route and boulder cleaning, guidebook work, exploring crags and taking photos, sharing experiences online, engaging with people in climbing forums / groups, getting back in touch with old mates etc etc. It can help you feel a bit more like a climber-on-sabbatical rather than a non-climber, and might be useful groundwork for the future.


It all adds up
This motto mostly sums up all of the above tactics: Every little bit of positive action you take will add up, whether it's adding up to rehabbing and healing, adding up to getting through the bleak shit miserable times, adding up to regaining strength / fitness, or adding up to progressing in the future. Celebrate and take heart with every small thing you do, because you've done in it, and doing that small thing is better than not doing that small thing, and "better" IS positive.


Whatever you do, don't paint toy soldiers
Yes alternative hobbies are good, yes distractions are good, yes creative endeavours are good, but seriously, painting fucking toy soldiers?? Get a grip. It's extremely time-consuming, phenomenally sedentary, completely introverted, and arguably the worst possible hobby to maintain any form of active functionality. It's a fucking terrible idea, just don't do it.



Source: Strategies (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 03, 2021, 01:56:24 pm
Do you want to buy a microscope?




Seriously though, good post. Solid advice. Touch wood I haven't had any major downs for a couple of years, so I'm beginning to allow that the counselling might have been worthwhile. The weather/ clocks are never helpful around now.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 03, 2021, 02:12:16 pm
Do you want to buy a microscope?
For the world's smallest violin or to up my toy soldier painting game?? I already have reading glasses for the latter...
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: RebekahD on November 04, 2021, 08:40:13 pm
Nice words Matt. This was way more inspiring than the standard 'just do pull-ups instead of watching TV you lazy shit' type blogs that I guess are supposed to get you hyped up but inevitably just leave you feeling more shit.

"Some snappily-titled ideas of how to cope with physical and mental setbacks and disorders whilst trying to keep climbing..."

I reckon you could have also added, 'how to cope with having young kids whilst trying to keep climbing'  to that title. Every point resonates well with me on that front. Although that being said the kids did leave me with a good few physical set backs and the whole shebang certainly caused some mental setbacks!

Like you said, it's about trying to keep your foot in the door, even in just the smallest way, and sometimes keeping your foot in the door looks like being alive and having fed yourself (and family), and sometimes it looks like managing to get out climbing on the reg or managing to hang out at the wall with friends. The 'foot in the door' varies wildly for me personally depending on what other life shit is currently happening.
 

Ping us a message if you're up our way again, Calum and I have a pretty erratic work/life schedule so there's a good chance that one of us might be free. Would be nice to climb with you again!


 
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 04, 2021, 10:33:40 pm
Thanks a lot Bekah. Crikey yes the challenge of having kids, that's a massive one. Respect to you for what you've managed with that!

Someone else has appreciated my post coming from very different and very challenging circumstances (non-climbing) which was also interesting. I guess some stuff is generally applicable, but I did write it to capture (and remind myself of!) stuff I have personally and practically done or attempted recently.

I'm not sure I'll be back up any time soon but will be in touch if I am (I saw the recent post of the wee ones cuddles ;))
Title: fiendblogSolace Part 2
Post by: comPiler on November 23, 2021, 01:02:21 am
Solace Part 2


Maybe a post about actually climbing for a change??

(Edit, and warning: there now are a lot of words about climbing in this post, I got carried away)

It's still a struggle. I want to push myself. I want to be climbing at over 50% capacity. I want to train. I want to bivvy beneath the 30' board in the new Depot training room. I want to feel the cranking. Sigh.

But there's a little bit of stuff I can do, apart from easy circuits indoors and trying to work out why the fuck my pelvis and left leg are constantly aching and tweaky despite exercise and stretching. Mostly easy grit, slabs, and easy grit slabs. Thankfully all of those things are rather good so there's some pleasure to be had in the usual luck-based scrittle malarkey of sliding off smears, pinging off pebbles, being unable to reach holds, and moaning about skin / conditions. So here's a little tale about most of those...


M20 and I went questing off to Standing Stones. He promised me a Bonjoy 6C slab, and the chance to heckle him on a downsloping lip traverse just above the pads and then a large drop-off so if the climber fell and the precariously bridged spotter fumbled, you'd both end up plunging headfirst into a likely bottomless pit in the boulders below. I promised myself to get a decent walk, fresh air, and not aggravate my elbow, which is sometimes all I aim for these days.

I'd actually been for a recce last autumn (previous golfer's elbow AND tweaked MCL rehab...) and spotted a few things including this slab that featured one of the two defining characteristics of the extensive SS boulderfield: boulders that either don't have a landing, or are so wedged and jumbled that they don't form problems at all. Since this only featured the former, I decided to investigate further whilst M20 was brushing scrittle or looking lustily at grouse or something. 

The slab was indeed attractive, the terrain beneath it less so, consisting of an artisanal blend of holey bits and jaggy bits and finely seasoned by a suitcase-sized block jutting right out over it. It turns out that the latter was in a fairly relaxed state about it's current position and decided it's ultimate destiny in life was to roll down into one of the afore-mentioned holes in a position which initially seemed equally jutting and inconvenient but actually provided a useful centerpiece around which other unstable blocks could migrate towards and cuddle up next to. An hour or so later there was, miraculously, a landing. And it seemed that no mosses, lichens, ferns nor rodent nests were disturbed in the transition, indeed scarcely a displaced woodlouse was spotted.

...

After some stones had partaken in downwards motion, it was incumbent for the climber to attempt upwards motion. A lone excellent sidepull provided both the solution and conundrum, and it quickly became apparently that it's more obvious orientation naturally led the climber off onto the left arete rather abruptly, albeit after a very pleasant smear-stepping start (Solexit 6A). A more direct line didn't seem to work and I started to lose interest, and, somewhat prematurely, left Gritstone Jesus to take over. He worked out an extended smearing sequence that used the Hold to gaston back right and up, leaving a final smear and stretch to a particularly enticing pebble, at which point the gritstone decided to take revenge for all the downwards motion earlier on, and the pebble and climber joined the downward motion...

At this point the Gritstone Gentleman, after a half-hearted attempt discovering the remaining hole was a pale shadow of the pebble it once embraced, confessed that he was feeling a bit reluctant to fully go for it, as I'd put all the effort into fixing the landing and really I should be giving it a fair go. Gulp. So I did, and the climbing started to feel pretty damn interesting - a different extended sequence of smears led back to the same position, and a worse, higher pebble showed potential to reach the top. After a few tentative dismounts, I pulled on the pebble, bridged a foot onto a ripple and reached.... ....the bloody left arete, albeit a lot higher. 

This was something I hadn't intended nor desired. The problem was already a bit eliminate in that you had to move back right to avoid easier ground, and I wanted it to be a logical eliminate with a simple "avoid the left arete" description. I checked if I could reach the top directly (not really), tried a few more times, skidded off a higher smear, ran out of time and shuffled away. 

But it kept nagging at me, and inspiring me, and it's been a while since I've been able to feel inspiration or anything that motivational. I didn't think there was much to improve to do that last move more directly, just having more time to persist with it and hope the luck part of the luck based scrittle appeared out of somewhere. I bade my time, cleaned off an excellent project to tempt M20 back, and thought about smears. 

...

Eventually M20, MG and I went back - the closest Standing Stones has got to an actual send train! We downgraded the Bonjoy 6B+, did a new one move wonder undercut arete I found - Careless Pork - and I got back on the slab. And exactly the same thing happened, the best position I got into, the way for me to progress was rolling onto the arete. Again I tested the stretch to the top, this time with more diligence, to discover I'd have to be on tip-toes on the crucial ankle-down smear to reach it. Again I passed the baton on, and M20 stretched the very top of the arete and slab apex to match. With the team's support, the assessment was that where you reach from the final position wasn't the main thrust of the problem, and effectively I'd already done it last time. This was quite weird for me, closure of the inspiration not by success but by changing the goalposts.

Post-match analysis however revealed some logic, in which I was inspired by writings of the ex-Newcastle now Cymru captain Pantontino. It's nice for new things to make clear-cut sense: Follow the line from the bottom to the top. But sometimes they don't. Bits of rock impinge, easier ground impinges, features lead away from the best climbing. Guidance from a well-written guide nudges the climber to make the best use out of the rock, even if it means guidelines on what to do. In this case, matching the Hold and rocking back right locks you into the sequence of smears and pebbles until you're bridged higher and either slap the upper arete or the top. Yes you go back to the arete if you can't reach the top, but only after 6 tricky and delicate moves away from the much easier start-sidepull-arete problem.

So it's a flawed result, but there's now a feasible problem with good climbing. It's about 6C/+-ish maybe.

And the name??

Solace.



Source: Solace Part 2 (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: iain on November 23, 2021, 12:56:48 pm
That almost makes me psyched to climb on grit, and that's saying something from this limestone lover. Good effort.

I do like your writing, can relate all too well to the mh and injury woes, and I've got a few new venues to check out I don't think I wouldn't come across otherwise.

It's winter(ish) though, where are your soldier painting posts? ;)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 23, 2021, 05:17:48 pm
Thanks Iain!! I did get a bit carried away with that post but sometimes I just like writing indepth about something so....narrowly climbing focused.

New venues are definitely a key to coping with relative downtime, aye.

And the soldier painting posts are here: https://teamshambler.blogspot.com/  :ninja:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 23, 2021, 08:09:41 pm
https://teamshambler.blogspot.com/  :ninja:

"Dangerous Webpage Blocked
You attempted to access:https://teamshambler.blogspot.com/
This is a known dangerous webpage. It is highly recommended that you do NOT visit this page.

Visit Norton to learn more about phishing and internet security."

 :lol:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: iain on November 24, 2021, 08:14:01 am
That's fitting  ;D

(No problems from my pc/phone)
Title: fiendblogA Very Secret Slab
Post by: comPiler on November 25, 2021, 07:00:05 pm
A Very Secret Slab


Seek and ye shall find....maybe....or just get lost in the woods. 


Paul's Peach Slab, Honley Old Woods - update.

Main problems thoroughly cleaned November 2021


Approach:


The old parking at the end of Hassocks Lane is no longer viable as it's now a public bridleway and even if you park very discreetly and sensibly you'll likely get some self-important twat in the last house / building site blocking you in and waffling on about road traffic act blah blah whatever shut up already you tedious bellend.

Instead, park carefully on the verge next to a gate on the south side of Meltham Road, halfway between Honley Livery Stables and the edge of Honley Village, 50m west of the footpath / farm track leading to Hassocks Lane. Walk north down this track to the woodland, go into the woods and diagonally left for 30m until a carved block points a path leading rightwards, i.e. directly away from the main road. Follow this path for 200m until it reaches the valley edge, and drops down beneath Old Honley Wood Quarry. Turn left onto the path above the edge and follow this for 300m or so until it intertwines with a path on the left, next to the fence on the left. At this point you should be directly opposite a strange silo in a clearing to the left, turn right and the top of the slab should be 20m down the valley slope.


Problems:


The description on the Kirklees climbing site isn't very clear and the update on UKC doesn't help much either! So maybe this will show the potential.... Apart from miscellaneous pebbles and smears, the centre of the slab has few features, but the two main ones naturally lead to distinct and good quality variants. The main holds are a head-height diagonal edge left of centre (with a good starting smear low down), and a very shallow flaky scoop high up with a useful rail at it's bottom.

? - A possible one move wonder up the left edge.

PL - Peach Lefthand 6C?
Shorter but still tricky and good. Right hand gaston the diagonal edge, right foot low smear, and climb straight up on pebbles, with or without the scoop rail to finish.

PP - Paul's Peach 6B+
The original and best linking of the features. Left hand sidepull the diagonal edge, left foot low smear, and reach and rock up right to the scoop rail before finishing slightly leftwards.

PSD - Peach Superdirect 7A?
Fierce pebble pulling to get the most slab value. Just right climb direct on pebbles to the scoop rail, match it and finish slightly rightwards. 

TS - Tentative Steps 4+
Link the lower diagonal runnel and a good flat hold above to gain the right crest of the slab.

Low Traverse - It would also be possible to do a rather fun traverse from the good footholds on the left edge all the way into Tentative Steps to finish.



Source: A Very Secret Slab (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Wellsy on November 25, 2021, 09:46:41 pm
Looks brilliant, I'll get those checked out soon :)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on November 25, 2021, 10:03:06 pm
 :yes: cool. Grades could be fictious / overestimated but I was trying to match up what Kirklees gave (6B+) and what UKC gave (7A). There's nowt else clean nearby but Netherton Edge opposite would be a good combination.
Title: fiendblogWhat Went Wrong??
Post by: comPiler on January 21, 2022, 01:00:51 am
What Went Wrong??


The path to recovery is long, slow, and winding. 
And not always as neatly paved as this one.

A month and a half ago I sprained my LCL (lateral cruciate ligament) in my left knee at the wall. I was near the end of a session and was trying a leg-intensive problem to avoid over-using my injured golfer's elbow. I was in a deep squat on my left leg on a hold, right leg and hands on pretty much nothing - this is usually a strong position for me, but this time I heard a crunch in my knee and fell off. I could walk / squat immediately after and had little pain. However seeing a physio the next day showed that I definitely had an LCL sprain and would need to go through the usual slow healing / care / rehab process, which I am doing.

Having just about managed to get my head above water coping with the golfer's elbow injury and partly-associated depression, mostly by relying on slabs and leg-focused stuff, this has been very hard to cope with and has lead to some pretty bleak moments. I've managed to get a bit more stable just recently, and regardless have been sticking to rehab and aggravation-avoidance diligently.

This is the latest in a series of injuries that has either wiped out training time, climbing time, or both, and has got me speculating if there's anything obvious I'm doing wrong. So I've done a retrospective of the last few years (lower down page) to see if there are any common threads (just below).

------

Common issues and prevention ideas:

Always pushing to my limit:
Something which I think people often don't believe, because by the standards of many of my peers the end results are entirely unspectacular, and because I've heard that it doesn't look like I'm trying hard - when in fact I'm battling for dear life. The reality is that in any physically focused climbing genre (sport, bouldering, indoors, even gym), I'm always pushing really really fucking hard because that's why I enjoy. This isn't a problem in itself, BUT becomes a problem when that desire / habit overrides common sense in terms of (deep breath) recruitment, preparation, warm-ups, conditions, rest days, physiological imbalances etc etc. 
Prevention: 
WARNING FLAGS checklist (below) - go through this before any challenging climbing session and check that the risk of injury is acceptable / manageable.
IF there's any uncertainty about any of the factors on the checklist, TEST them if possible - probably as part of the warm-up - with something that mimics the risk factors.
Have a Plan B in terms of climbs or venues.
Be wary of the risks involved in a sudden change of situation or focus (climbing to training, outdoors to indoors, wall to gym, etc). A change of focus could be equivalent to restarting an activity after a lot of time off - warm into it as appropriate. 

Not warming up enough:
Related to above, I know that sometimes I don't need to warm-up much at all (good weather, well-recruited from previous climbing / training days), and sometimes I know I need to warm up well (low energy, low mood, too much time off, inactivity etc). But occasionally my judgement and self-discipline is very flawed and I'm too lazy / distracted to warm-up methodically, and definitely risk injury.
Prevention: 
Have a warming up checklist: Temperature & blood flow > conditioning & stabilising > recruitment > injury & sensitivity specific > climb specific.
Refine my warming up to include recruitment. 
Work on habitualising a good warm-up routine. 
Ask my friends and partners to remind me to warm-up properly. 
Think outside the box when it comes to warming up in situations without easy / obvious warm-ups. Play around on rock / wall for movement at least.
Remember that warming up applies after a long period of cooling down, as well as first starting.

Not adapting to weather conditions.
In the UK it weathers a lot. I've been out on a spring weekend when it's been too hot for lime one day and too cold for grit the next. And the calling of the lime is a good chance of blizzards and when I moved to Manc it was 20+ degrees at the end of February. Anyway I'm mostly good at picking a sensible crag for whatever ridiculous conditions have sprung out of nowhere, but not always, and sometimes I definitely have stuck to a plan or desire in adverse conditions that have caused a higher risk of injury for my intended climbing.
Prevention: 
Now part of the WARNING FLAGS checklist (below).
Have a Plan B in terms of climbs or venues.

Not heeding niggles in the earlier or manageable stages.
I often get minor, manageable niggles - from pushing hard, irrespective of whether I should be - which isn't a big problem in itself, BUT becomes a problem when I don't manage those. I'm okay with partly managing them with rehab exercises and some balancing out work, but much worse with using sensible judgement to avoid pushing too hard in extreme situations that are high risk to those niggles.
Prevention: 
Now part of the WARNING FLAGS checklist (below).
Remember that stepping back and taking it easy for a week or two will impact on training and progression much less than having to take it easy for a few months due to full injury. 
Rest from the niggle-stressing activity is crucial, not resting from other activity (but heed change of focus risks).

Impacting with the ground / rock (not pads).
I've always landed like an 80kg sack of spuds, and tend very readily to break rather than bounce, whether it's hitting the rock or more likely the ground. That's how I am physiologically, and recovering from an LCL is maybe not a time when I'm thinking about a "learning to land" course, yet. Incidentally so far I've never had an impact injury from falling on pads nor falling indoors, including some semi-highball stuff outdoors and bouncing off pads etc. 
Prevention: 
Do more varied falling practise indoors and outdoors to learn fall more safely in awkward situations. 
Seriously consider giving up the idea of never using pads before leading / soloing trad routes. 
Take the lower parts of routes seriously rather than casually, and plan for falling risks

Pushing knees to extremes in unusual movements.
It's only happened a couple of times, but with frustrating consequences. I'm not really sure why as I have reasonably strong legs from gym work, and no persistent niggles from running etc. Perhaps just bad luck??
Prevention: 
Warm-up legs better before leg-intensive climbs / problems. 
Have additional WARNING FLAGS for a set of leg movements / positions that might be risky and need extra care, e.g.: Deep squats / heel hooks / heel-toes / drop-knees.

Being heavy.
No shit. An extra 10% weight is an extra 10% stress through all the joints / tissues in question.
Prevention: Get a magic fairy to remove my DVTs and repair my digestion so I can do more CV exercise, get more energy from food, and manage my weight better.


WARNING FLAGS
These are checklists for me to print out (in a better format), stick in my rucksac, stick in my guidebooks, tattoo on my knob (might need a smaller font...), and check off before any challenging climbing sessions.

General risk checklist:
Niggles and injuries / Other physical issues (inc fatigue) / Weather and conditions / Type of climb / Risky holds / Risky moves or positions (including unfamiliar ones).

Previous injury and weakness risk checklist:
Golfer's elbow (both) / Tennis elbow (both) / Shoulder impingements (both, especially right) / Left hand main finger A2 / Left hand ring finger PIP / Left knee in general.


------

4 year timeline of injuries:

2017:

November - January 2018: Widespread impact / muscle damage in right leg.
Cause: Falling off the "easy" bit of a challenging route and slamming into an overlap.
Effects: 2-3 months recovering to full fitness / leg use. Kept up with upper body training so no extra muscular detriments (but contracted norovirus in hospital with long term digestive / mood / energy level detriments).


2018:

[July onwards - maximum fitness due to mostly redpointing during summer]

December onwards: Tennis elbow in both elbows
Cause: 4 days bouldering / training, then niggles, then more cold bouldering instead of resting.
Effects: Restricted any harder climbing and any training for several months.


2019:

January to May: Tennis elbow in both elbows.
Cause: 4 days bouldering / training, then niggles, then more cold bouldering instead of resting.
Effects: Prevented any harder climbing nor any training for several months, still weak in April.

October to November: Injured / strained lower back.
Cause: Running 0.7 miles to local gym and deadlifting on exhausted / de-oxygenated legs.
Effects: A week off climbing / training and a couple of weeks gently getting back into it.

December to Feb 2020: Tendon sheath injury (?) in left forearm.
Cause: Unknown!
Effects: Some small restrictions on hold usage especially crimps and mixed/split grips.


2020:

[Early August - maximum fitness due to mostly redpointing during summer]

Mid-August to mid-November: MCL sprain in left knee.
Cause: Pushing far too deep in a maximum effort drop knee in poor conditions.
Effects: Prevented any harder climbing nor any leg-intensive training for 3 months.

Mid-August to mid-December: Full golfer's elbow in right elbow.
Cause: Deadhanging / pull-ups with little warming up, then steep traversing instead of resting.
Effects: Prevented any harder climbing nor any arm-intensive training for 3+ months.


2021:

May onwards: Bicep tendon insertion slight impingement in right shoulder.
Cause: Attempting to climb strenuous sport after freezing on a cold and prolonged redpoint belay.
Effects: Some small restrictions on strenuous climbing, especially pulling into sidepulls / underclings from below.

May: Bruised left heel.
Cause: Dropping a couple of metres off the start of a route.
Effects: Curtailed indoor/outdoor bouldering, heel-hooks, and running for a few weeks.

July to September: Golfer's elbow slight niggle in left elbow.
Cause: Deadhanging / pull-ups with little warming up.
Effects: Little effect at time, manageable with care.

August: Bruised right heel.
Cause: Falling a couple of metres off the start of a route.
Effects: Would have curtailed bouldering as before except it was too warm anyway.

October onwards: Full golfer's elbow in left elbow.
Cause: Attempting to boulder beyond my limit, in the freezing cold, without warming up and without taping up.
Effects: Prevented any harder climbing nor any arm-intensive training 4+ months.

November onwards: Sciatica / sore piriformis.
Cause: Unknown but likely change in routine from lots of climbing to more gym / stretching.
Effects: Mostly just annoyance but some confusion when assessing LCL pain.

December onwards: LCL sprain in left knee.
Cause: Single leg deep squat position on indoor problem whilst avoiding elbow-stressing problems.
Effects: Prevented any harder climbing nor any leg-intensive training for 3 months.

Mid-December onwards: Tennis elbow slight niggle in left elbow.
Cause: Weighted deadhanging (okay for golfer's) off the couch, to max limit.
Effects: Curtailed further "training" and some gym work and rehab for golfer's elbow.



P.S. For a blog post that is just about recording events and analysing them (which should be fairly simple!!), it's taken a long time for me to write it and try to get it right. Sorry for the length / dryness / anything that doesn't make sense / etc.


Source: What Went Wrong?? (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: edshakey on January 25, 2022, 07:07:31 pm
A Very Secret Slab

Went here on Sunday, having tried a couple weekends ago but walked in sans pads after it tipped it down on the drive over. It looked cracking, so came back when it was fortunately dry. Sure enough, it was cracking! Really glad I spotted your post here, would thoroughly recommend it to other slab fans.

Thoughts:

- Fiend's directions are pretty spot on, my only mistake first time round was underestimating 300m on the edge so dropped down too soon. When it says
 
Quote
At this point you should be directly opposite a strange silo in a clearing to the left

You really need to be here. The silo is white and slightly in the distance, but easy enough to spot once you actually walk far enough. And to confirm that, the top of the slab is visible from the edge of the edge, so don't drop down if you can see it.

- My weigh in on the grades would be that PP and PL are maybe a touch easier? Not got bags of experience but they took me less time than I was expecting. Didn't manage to get up PSD in the limited time I had, but it's definitely a significant step up from the other two.

- Use the parking Fiend suggested. I tried to be sneaky and park at the start of Hassocks Lane in a convenient layby and returned to this on my windscreen

(https://i.ibb.co/nqGX8Jj/IMG-20220125-184808519.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HLScp8q)

It's preferable to a rant from a self-important twat, so I'll take it and be on my way  :whistle: the other parking is a similar distance, just muddier, but that's far from the end of the world. On the other hand, if souvenirs is what you're looking for, then I whole heartedly recommend it!

- All in all, great place if you know exactly what you're after (it really is the only bit of rock there that looks worth climbing). Definitely get over there if you're tempted, not least because of the great job that's been done to clean it, looks nothing like the dirty mess in the photo on ukc.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on January 25, 2022, 07:11:58 pm
Glad it's held up  :2thumbsup:
Title: fiendblogSteps forward, steps back.
Post by: comPiler on May 08, 2022, 01:00:15 pm
Steps forward, steps back.


A long overdue update that ends up not dissimilar to previous updates?? I've been clawing my way back into climbing over the last couple of months. Easy trad, easy sport, initially easy bouldering, testing my injuries, seeing what they could cope with, testing my confidence and fitness, seeing that they were entirely absent, so working back into roped climbing especially slowly - the new Moelwynion guide has helped a lot with that.

Bouldering seemed to progress better, with my golfer's elbow and LCL strain coping well, and a recent background of board training giving me some strength regains. So naturally and inevitably, I started to try hard and push myself, and naturally and inevitably my recent tennis elbow flared up to the point of being notably injured and requiring a lot of care and restraint again.

So 2-3 weeks of respite and normality, then back to the usual bullshit. I'm starting to realise how crippling inevitable this is when you're too heavy, too old, and don't have the essential pre-climbing background of athletic/fitness activities - and don't have enough self-discipline to bumble along when you're fed up of bumbling along. At least I'm down to one inhibitive injury rather than two or three, but it's still as frustrating as ever.  Of course I'm trying to find ways to work around this, and trying to find options to keep inspired and keep trying to regain back to a normal level...

Things that are OFF the cards: Classic mainstream crags where I've done all the easier routes and only have things that are too hard for me left / board training / excessive bouldering / redpointing / grit because it's too warm obviously.

Plan Bs...

  • More sea-cliff mini-adventures: especially Porth Dafrach / Range / Llyn (just the gentle bits!) / Trinity House Walls / Thunderbird Zawn ...and a long weekend at Ynys Lochtan??
  • More hidden gem cragging: especially smaller Duddon areas like Crag Band / Tongue House / Gaitkins / Little Stand / Brandy Crag / Buck Crag....and some more Moelwyns of course.
  • More conjuring up similarly inspired climbing partners out of thin air 😂😆😐😞☹
  • More indoor leading / falling practise
  • More indoor stamina circuits
  • Maybe a bit of Welsh slab / crack bouldering
  • Maybe some steadier sport at venues I haven't climbed out yet...
  • Stretching, because I've been neglecting that.
  • Boring rehab, as always....
  • Lancs quarries for local stuff of course!


Anyway have some photos of some trad and some videos of some bouldering:












Source: Steps forward, steps back. (http://)
Title: fiendblogThe Beginning Of The End.
Post by: comPiler on June 13, 2022, 01:00:17 pm
The Beginning Of The End.

 
I can point to an exact time and place when I realised my climbing career was coming to an end. 

It was mid-evening last summer, 10 or 11 months ago, and it was walking back along the grassy path that provides a 10 minute flat gentle stroll between The Range sea-cliffs and the carpark. The Range - and Porth Dafrach - had been as delightfully fun and enjoyable as ever, the quintessential Type 1 pleasures of crenellated zawns and headlands, undulating and intriguing rock, quirky and characterful lines. I had been less fun and enjoyable, as I'd started to run out of soft-touches to ledge-shuffle my way up, and not only had I backed off a few alluring routes, I'd started to run out of inspiration too, it felt like perhaps my passion there was waning...

I was with my friend S. S and I share a few things in common - a passion for interesting mini-adventures (he'd come up to climb after being inspired by "the dog stake"), a fair amount of diligence and attention to detail placing gear in such situations, and a puerile and vulgar sense of humour that usually results in a contest for how many cocks we can finger draw on each other's cars. And that's where the similarities abruptly end...S is very tall, lean, young, strong, fit (climbing and cv-wise), able-legged, constantly motivated and stoic about travelling around, seemingly unhindered by depression, sociable and affable and part of a vibrant climbing scene. All things I wish I was (well I could live without the "very tall" bit...), most of them out of my reach without vascular surgery / lobotomy / time machine. 

The point is, we were chatting about routes and areas and climbs I'd done and been inspired by, and climbs he was going to do and was inspired by, and it became very obvious that he was on an exciting upwards trajectory through climbs, crags, challenges and exploration.... ... .. And I was winding down. I became acutely aware that in my main passion of trad cragging and sea-cliffs, whilst I had some prominent and deep-seated inspirations left, both minor and major, I was gradually working my way through those that were feasible, and was starting to run low on routes, crags, and determination for all the faff that comes with it - partners, conditions, travelling, uncertainties, intimidation, constantly trying to be on mental and physical form....

This feeling came pretty much out of nowhere - on a trip that was specifically about following inspirations and passions - and blindsided me. I can't recall feeling like that about climbing before. Climbing, for all it's internal and external difficulties, is an incredibly positive experience for me in a wide variety of ways (maybe that's why those difficulties are so frustrating, because they're inhibiting that positivity). To feel I was "running out" of the most important aspect of it for me was bewildering and felt like it was untethering me from myself. 

What the fuck was I going to do after the next few challenges?? Where was it all going?? Why would I be climbing in a few years time?? If I'm winding down, what is the point in it all??

But.... Remember that bit about "incredibly positive experience in a wide variety of ways"?? It's genuine and that passion isn't easily quenched. So my mind started wondering and wandering onto other possibilities and what could keep me going. As well as constantly trying to explore around (and "tick" new crags instead of routes, all over the UK - although this is a desire that is constantly hampered by the fairly fruitless struggle to find like-minded partners), I came up with a couple of options: 

Firstly taking a step back and focusing more on sport climbing and training and the physical side - relaxing into the logistical and psychological calmness of that approach, and hopefully occasionally springing out to do some awesome trad with the confidence from having a larger physical buffer (my buffer then was the size of a midge's foreskin, now it's actually inverted). 

Secondly also taking a step back and focusing on the simultaneously exploratory, challenging, aesthetic and technical delights of bouldering in the UK (and elsewhere). Particularly the endless and endlessly varied Welsh bouldering which has consistently inspired me in the last few years.

So there I had it. There were options, there were inspirations, I would still keep climbing, I'd just change the focus a bit, and see how a fresh approach - particularly easing off on the mental and emotional challenges of pushing my trad climbing, and instead relishing in the physical challenges of pushing bouldering, sport, and training.

...

..

.

A couple of months after this - whilst starting to do a bit more bouldering as my trad confidence had remained shaky during the rest of the summer - I pushed too hard in the wrong conditions and injured my left elbow.

Since then - concurrent with my idea to reassure myself and reignite my passion by focusing a bit more on the physical side of climbing - I've been near constantly injured (sometimes, like the LCL, without even pushing myself), for the last 8 months.

.

..

...


Source: The Beginning Of The End. (http://)
Title: fiendblogDiary of DOG.
Post by: comPiler on July 04, 2022, 01:07:58 am
Diary of DOG.


Hello I am Nunu aka Noodles, Mari and Terry's 12 year old husky-alsatian cross. I like pulling on the lead all the way to the crag, sleeping at  the crag on anyone's down jacket, begging for food, trying to steal  people's lunches, and then pulling on the lead all the way back from the  crag. Anyway "Fiend" (who is clearly quite daft) somehow volunteered to dogsit me whilst M and T were  off galivanting so I write guest dog guest blog to tell everyone  about grand adventures.


Day 1 - Talfarach, Llanbedrog, Gesail

WHY YOU DOGNAPPING ME IN SMOL CAR WITH TECHNOS??

Doesn't  seem right. Where's the big van? Why don't I have bouldering mats  toppling onto my head at any slight bump? Where are we going?

Oh okay through a farm with really rude dogs who do the Big Barks and snap at me and have no manners and fuck off.

What now tied under a boulder in the shade no I want to be in the sun and frying alive. Where you going?? What is "recce offwidth with horrible landing"?? Doesn't sound like dog treats to me.


SRSLY NOT SURE ABOUT THIS.

Oh  okay you gave me smol bit of egg that rolled into crack in the rock and  now I can spend 15 minutes trying to lick it out this might be okay.



Not convinced by broccoli. Would prefer your dinner.


Day 2 - Porth Howel, Carreg Lefain

I AM BIG BRAVE ADVENTURE DOG, I DON'T CARE ABOUT HORIZONTAL RAIN.


I  am husky x alsatian I bite terrorists hunt down trolls and yeti and  have impenetrable fur so yes rain lets go down to the crag even if I  have to be pushed back up that awful gravel gully 2 paws up 3 paws down.


Also great recceing skills at the second crag well done at least I can still pull on the lead.



Day 3 - Porth Dafrach, Benllech

YES I AM GOING TO YELP AND SQUEAK FOR NO APPARENT REASON UNTIL YOU PUT YOUR JACKET BACK DOWN FOR ME.


I  mean what do you expect. The Range area is lovely as you said and you  gave me biscuits and Emyr gave me a bit of bread crust but I have to  fuss about something and the jacket is very nice thank you it just needs  extra fur to replace the down.




DEAD ROTTING SEAL, I WANT DEAD ROTTING SEAL.


Mmmmokay  biscuits are fine breadcrusts are fine but really as a husky I live on  dead rotting seal. Important diet, very nutritious. Will sulk a lot if I  don't get rotting seal. Just watch me.


Day 4 - Porth Ceiriad, Porth Howel

YES  LET ME OFF LEAD ON THIS GIANT BEACH AND A I PROMISE I WON'T RUN MILES  BACK TO JOIN IN A KID'S FOOTBALL GAME AND GET SHOUTED AT. PROMISE  PROMISE THXBYETHEN.


Okay that was a great promise. Worked well.  Oh now we're in a quiet, safe corner with a dog who I just said hello to  and wanted to play with, yes let me off again. Okay I will just stand  here and do nothing now. Nunu reasonz.

GOATS, I WANT GOATS





Back  here again seriously why come on. Okay you had to carry me over bad  steps to the rock ramp but why. Ah bouldering. Yes you're close to that  project, well done but GOATS now I can bark like a fucking lunatic at  goats because you needed the distraction P.S. GOATS.


Day 5 - Carreg Lefain

YAAAY RAFE'S TUPPERWARE LUNCH BOX IS THE CHALLENGE I WANTED.



I'm  big brain husky x alsatian, I need serious thinking challenges.  Stealing water bottles too easy. Creating n-dimensional cat's cradle of  long lead too easy. Tupperware good brain stimulation. Rafe said lunch  had lots of chilli. No problem. More brain stimulation.
 


Day 6 - Penmaen Head Trench Wall

BEST  IDEA IS TO GET TANGLED WITH DAVE LYON'S DOG MILO, TREAD ON HIM WHEN WE  FALL OVER, THEN EVERYONE CAN SNAP AND SNARL. YES GOOD PLAN.



Okay  all that was too exciting, maybe I need my breakfast now which I never  eat at breakfast time. Even better if you have to go up this vertical  steps back to the car to get it. Much fun. Then I can guzzle whole lot  and still try to steal your lunch. I have best plans.



Day 7 - Porth Howel

FOR FUCK'S SAKE NOT THIS GRAVEL SCRAMBLE AGAIN.

You better have a plan to get me back up seriously. I might need to get  goats again. Also 3 bouldering mats good luck with that I'm a big brave  adventure dog not a porter.




ROTTING SEAGULL, I WANT ROTTING SEAGULL.


Not  as good as seal but since Hosey said this cove is completely enclosed  and secure and dog-friendly, I'm allowed to hunt out every rotting  seagull carcass right?? Yum.


Day 8 - Cwm Orthin

OKAY THIS IS NICE TO I'M GOING TO PULL ON THE LEAD EXTRA MORE.


Ooohhh,  I know this place. Close to home, very relaxed, soothing. Good time to  pull on the lead and try to chase sheep even though they'd beat me up.  But I'm not scared. Big brave adventure dog.


Still not convinced by broccoli. Maybe Hula Hoops instead.


Many sleeps and dream of goats.


Source: Diary of DOG. (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Wellsy on July 04, 2022, 10:50:40 pm
That's a bloody handsome dog!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 05, 2022, 10:20:27 am
She's a lady!! (And an idiot, albeit a lovable one)
Title: Re: fiendblogDiary of DOG.
Post by: Will Hunt on July 05, 2022, 10:48:49 am
Diary of DOG.
YES  LET ME OFF LEAD ON THIS GIANT BEACH AND A I PROMISE I WON'T RUN MILES  BACK TO JOIN IN A KID'S FOOTBALL GAME AND GET SHOUTED AT. PROMISE  PROMISE THXBYETHEN.

The mental image of Fiend, bedecked in his camo shorts and neon vest, running along the beach screaming "NUNU! NUNU! JESUS CHRIST, NUNU! NUUUUUNUUUUUU!" has set me up for a fine day.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 05, 2022, 10:58:15 am
 :lol: ^^^ 90% accurate apart from they were pale grey-green shorts!!

Then after the dad shouted at her and she ran back towards me, she ran right past me, out to sea, to go play with another dog in the waves, wouldn't come back from that, I chased her again and had to grab her by the scruff of the neck, cue much squeaking. What a daftie.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Wellsy on July 05, 2022, 12:24:01 pm
She's a lady!! (And an idiot, albeit a lovable one)

Ladies can be handsome too  ;D
Title: fiendblogAnother Fallow Year
Post by: comPiler on November 22, 2022, 01:00:20 pm
Another Fallow Year

 
"It's okay", said the ginger beastlette, "sometimes you just need to have a fallow year. Take a step back from pushing yourself, from doing major challenges, from aiming for strong inspirations. Let yourself recover, let the spirit and psyche regrow. It's what serious climbers and actual athletes would do."

And she was right.

I did have to take a step back due to physical and mental health issues. A step away from challenges and inspirations and exciting destinations. A fallow spring and summer - when the weather was hot and everyone was in the shady mountains, I was grumping away at the climbing wall, when the weather was generally nice and people were exploring crags all over, I was day-tripping to grotty sport bollox to masochist myself redpointing. The amount of big ticks that got away was the only big number around, but it was all I could cope with - and I was keeping my activity levels and climbing strength up. God redpointing is bollox, but it does keep you moving and pulling hard.

So come autumn, inhibitive issues had alleviated a bit, and my body was ready to keep climbing, the physical GAINZ from the redpointing bollox paid off, and I had as good a big inspiration / major challenge trad autumn as I ever had (...for the last time, it seems...). So the fallow period did indeed work.

...


The thing is, this was 2018, not 2022. 2022 is another fallow year, but it's a very different fallow year.

2018 was about digestive issues, occasional debilitating nausea bouts, the fragility that left me with (go on a camping trip to the north west with those looming over me?? nope...), and the associated vagal depression - the latter having a clear cause and not being too overwhelming. The rest of my body was holding up okay (including a complete lack of decade-long golfer's elbow that cleared up within a week of the reflexologist I was seeing for my digestion finding "a strong pressure point reaction indicating upper left limb issues") and my physical ability to dick around on the rock in between dangling off bolts was as good as it's been post-DVTs/post-weight-gain. Once the bouts became more sporadic and the increased citalopram and CBT kicked in, I could put that into action.

2022 the digestive issues are not an issue. The perma-injury is, and the associated cumulative depression from that combining with age, perma-heaviness, old mental health issues and new personal issues. Full golfer's elbow from late September 2021 to <checks date> late November 2022 (and counting...) with only a brief respite in March/April, plus LCL injury from December 2021 to March 2022, plus tennis elbows in February/March then May 2022 has meant I've had only the slightest chance to get a meagre period of near-normal climbing strength (March/April), and no chance whatsoever of getting any fitness nor confidence. 

This fallow year is not only about taking a step back from pushing myself, from major challenges, from strong inspirations, it's about taking a step back from the positive physical side I sought solace in in 2018, the side that enabled me to keep going and come out with my climbing ability intact. In fact it's about taking a step back from most of the positivity in climbing in general.... I came out of 2018 with my physical ability probably slightly improved, and maybe my confidence from getting through the fallow year. I'm going to come out of 2022 with almost everything about my climbing worsened, apart from possibly flexibility, which I have managed to "train" a little bit, by not avoiding stretching quite as much as before! Maybe there will also be some benefits to the groundwork I've been forced to do about mental health issues, but that won't be evident yet.

This is a fallow year from which nothing is going to regrow in the foreseeable future...

...


I said a step back from most of the positivity in climbing. Not all. There have been a few very brief moments of strong inspiration rather than treading water waiting and hoping for it all to pass. This was one, by random chance something that was interesting in it's obscurity and challenging in a way which mostly bypassed my injury.


An interesting process and the name just came to me.



Source: Another Fallow Year (http://)
Title: fiendblogThinning the wedge??
Post by: comPiler on November 30, 2022, 07:00:14 pm
Thinning the wedge??


I posted a year about about the general increase in retro-bolting of good protectable trad routes in various areas across the UK. It seems my concerns were more prescient than alarmist: On my only two (due to injury) visits to The Ormes this year, the amount of retro-bolting seems to be accelerating rather than being curtailed. This means that when I turned up to rehab my elbow on some minor but enjoyable E1/2s on the usual pleasant Pen Trwyn rock, I found them to have been fully retro-bolted and turned into sport routes. I led them on trad anyway (which, despite the all-too-common false arguments to the contrary, definitely alters / spoils the experience, especially if it was on routes closer to the climber's limit), and still managed to enjoy good protectable trad despite the very unwelcome bolting situation. See below for more details.

There has been some online discussion, some discussion at the BMC North Wales Area Meet, and some extra discussion between interested parties about this issue. I've had some closer discussion with concerned friends and whilst there is some agreement that the this is an entirely undesirable and negative situation that is detrimental to both British trad climbing and the sport / trad balance in historically "mixed" venues, what to actually DO about this is another question - one that is sadly not solved merely by ranting.

So I've had a think and come up with a few ideas of how to TRY to reverse the trend a bit. As with Ken Canute (RIP), this is probably still trying to stop the ceaseless tide, but maybe it's worth trying. These are only my own ideas, perhaps naive and ill-formed, but they could be a starting point...


Practical actions:

1. Climb the minor but enjoyable trad routes in these venues NOW.
Partly don't keep putting them off because "I've got bigger plans and those routes will always been there for a quick hit / casual day". Because apparently they won't... And partly because the "this route was neglected and was rarely climbed as trad" reason is seemingly still used to "justify" retrobolting. So if the routes are more obviously climbed and not neglected, that reason becomes more invalid.

2. If suitable, do some careful cleaning (such as access allows).
This obviously depends on what is permissible and sensible. But if a route is relatively neglected and has become vegetated, this might put people off (even if it's still perfectly climbable). A light trim and spruce up can encourage people to get on it, and further reduce the "unpopular trad" argument.

3. If suitable, replace old fixed gear like-for-like.
Similar to above, depending on what is permissible and sensible. Old and rotting fixed gear that might need to be replaced somehow seems to transmogrify into yet another spurious "justification" for retro-bolting - not just replacing the fixed gear (or even just checking if it's needed at all!!), but bolting the whole route up because it had an old bolt or two pegs that needed replacing. This could be stopped before it started by replacing JUST the essential old fixed gear yourself (obviously having learnt the necessary skills and doing a safe job)

4. Publicise the quality of  these trad routes.
Following and of the above actions - PROMOTE THE ROUTES. Get good photos. Assess the trad gear situation. Write up a good report. Suggest tweaks to grades and descriptions, correct anything that's misleadingly off-putting. Provide people with good information about good routes and encourage them to go and climb them. If enough people do, it could show the quality of the trad enough to dissuade retro-bolting.

5. Be supportive and respectful of bolt removal.
Hypothetically. If it were to happen.


High level involvement:

1. Discuss the situation in general, online and in real life. 
A lot of the retro-bolting seems to come from people doing it without consultation, without warning, without discussion. The modus operandi seems to be secrecy / minimal consultation and try to let it become the route's status quo before anyone notices and queries it. Conversely, highlighting the issues, posting about them online, talking with other climbers about them, and raising awareness can bring the retro-bolting out into the open, maybe dissuade people from doing it too readily, and maybe encourage more people to stand against it.

2. If you know anyone involved with retro-bolting, talk to them, express your perspective. 
Ask them to please avoid retro-bolting trad routes, especially without consultation. It might fall on deaf ears but enough calmly put requests might add up (and see 5. below).

3. Attend BMC Area Meets or at least check the minutes of the meetings to keep informed.
Despite relatively limited participation and the difficulty for non-locals to attend, these still seem to have some importance and often provide a formal forum to investigate these issues. Put up with the boring / hill-walking bits, put the effort in attend if you can, or keep up to date with the meeting minutes if you can't.

4. If there are any polls or consensus requests, vote in them and make your view heard. 
Similar to getting the issues out in the open, don't keep your views private where they're not able to have any influence. Take part in any situation or consultation where a yay or nay, or a hand raised, or a "I vote for..." post can add to the numbers. Anyone can do this and it could help.

5. Keep a balance and pick the right battles. 
A general disapproval of bolts and sport climbing is futile these days. It seems many people responsible for retro-bolting also do good work that doesn't spoilt trad routes. E.g. if they've also been involved with replacing bolts on established sport routes, replacing lower-offs or adding them where needed, replacing like-for-like fixed gear, putting up new sport routes - praise them for such, make it clear that all of that, without retro-bolting, is appreciated and valuable.

Grass roots encouragement:

1. Encourage people at relevant crags to get on trad routes and give them a go.
Share your knowledge, spread your enthusiasm. Give them ideas of what might be good and suitable. Overhear someone at at a mixed trad/sport sector saying "Oh I'm keen to do my first E1 but the ones here look a bit blank"?? Point them at what you know, reassure them the gear is okay. Overhear general qualms about trad?? Sing it's praises, explain how much great stuff there is to go at on trad.

2. Promote trad across social media and other forums.
Try to be a positive influence on people where trad - and where preserving trad - is concerned. Highlight all that is good about it, reassure people about anything that might be putting them off, provide information about easy ways into trad, and in general present it palatably and accessible as possible. Any post, any discussion where you can positively nudge people towards it, try to do so.

3. Try to answer any concerns / questions about trad that might be putting people off.
E.g. 
"It's dangerous" - there's a huge amount of well-protected routes where you can place gear more regularly than on a sport routes, so it's definitely not necessarily dangerous.
"It's scary" - fear is part of the challenge and can be tackled and learnt to be overcome.
"It takes too long to learn" - that partly depends on the climbers diligence and dedication, and people who are determined enough and really focus on the core principles of placing gear, ropework, and the overall safety system can pick it up quickly.
"It's too expensive to learn"  - formal trad instruction is expensive but it also opens up a vast array of excellent climbing all over the UK, and there's the option of informal coaching from clubs or other climbers.
"I don't know where to start"  - give this person a list of courses and outdoor instruction venues to contact!
"A trad rack is too expensive"  - thee are various ways around this including: hooking up with someone who has a rack, initially sharing a rack purchase with a friend, joining a climbing club, getting good advice about the bare minimum starting rack, etc.
...and if it's really all too much, suggest that top-roping trad routes in these areas might be better as a last resort rather than asking for them to be retro-bolted??

4. Try not to alienate people. Highlight the quality of trad whilst acknowledging the popularity of sport - and inform people about the large amount of sport available in many areas so they know there's often plenty to do without needing to support retro-bolting trad. Phrase the encouragement positively rather than judgementally.

5. Take people under your wing if you can. Be a mentor, be an informal guide, offer to take people out, be part of a climbing club. Pass down your experience and encourage people to develop the skills to do more trad and rely less on bolted routes (and maybe reduce the pressure to create more of them).


------


Recent-ish retro-bolting examples:

Tramstation Crag:
A very pleasant and accessible suntrap that would be a charming little trad venue in inclement weather or for a quick hit. The routes are short, some are pretty minor, but the rock and climbing are good as usual.

The Three Musketeers E1 5b *
This would make a lovely little first E1 for anyone who can place wires. Lots of wires. So many wires that I started running out of quickdraws. Very steady good tradding with nice hidden sharp flake holds.


D'Artagnan E1 5c *
Another pleasant wee route with an easier start and a trickier and nicely technical finish. This was protected in the classic and natural Ormes "hybrid" style of having a lone bolt on the only blank bit. It would have been obvious and sensible to replace this lone bolt instead of retro-bolting a good route, or actually just remove the upper bolt given there are micro-cam placements nearby.


(Not shown is The Catwalk Direct E2 5c * on the left of this wall. The route originally had plentiful trad gear to start, a couple of hybrid bolts to protect the crux, and then a weird traverse out right for unknown reasons. It seems entirely sensible to have a lower-off at the finish to get the natural direct line without the traverse. It would have also been sensible to replace the two old bolts, or even better replace them with a single bolt to give more of a committing feel, rather than fully retro-bolting.)


St Tudno's Upper
Just one of many of a good cluster of crags in Lighthouse Area with fine sea-views, easy access but an exposed feel, good rock, good climbing, and in theory a good sport / trad blend.

Rest And Be Thankful E2 5c **
A cracker of a route with more gear than you can place, although you still have to properly go for it on a typically committing but rewarding Ormes crux leading to good holds. Apparently there were two old pegs and a thread. These were clearly not needed, but what really wasn't needing was retrobolting.


Pile Driver E2 5b 
A good and photogenic line with some committing climbing away from the good gear low down. Maybe a bit unbalanced to be worth a star here but definitely would get one on Peaks / Yorkshire lime and still well worth doing, and keeping, as trad.


Thank You Johnny / Thank You Matt E2 5c **
Note: There is some confusion about this line. The bolter / retro-bolter claims it's a new sport route and not a retro-bolted version of TYJ, however it is listed on UKC as TYJ F6a+ "Now retro-bolted". Which does mean that any pro-retro-bolting arguments using UKC logbook ticks as a "popularity" "justification" for removing trad routes might be based on unreliable evidence.
Anyway what is clear is this is a good trad route with plentiful gear (fiddly in the main break but with a great shake-out there and easy gear just right) and a really nice techy rockover crux that shouldn't have been retro-bolted - and for that matter should have been done as trad if it is a new line.



And All Hell Broke Loose E2 5c *
Another good route with a stiff (but easier than it looks) start, a bit of boldness, then some delicacy, and a final thought-provoking crux with plentiful good small gear and a good rest to ponder it all. I found this one particularly satisfying even if it is a bit disjointed. The guide mentions a peg, it's clear this wasn't needed and neither was retro-bolting.


Hopefully this seemingly yearly post next year will be a lot more positive and celebratory??...



Source: Thinning the wedge?? (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Potash on November 30, 2022, 07:26:43 pm
 Specific and well placed lower offs for trad routes on mixed trad/sport crags?

Obviously (I hope) not bolted loweroffs at Gogarth though.

Whilst having bolt free places like Gogarth Maincliff is a hill I'm willing to die on I think bolting loweroffs can really facilitate people getting in the miles on trad routes.

This would be a good first step in places like Cheedale and Dovedale where you can climb the sport routes and lower off but the trad requires a hideous top out.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 30, 2022, 07:50:59 pm
Thanks Matt, great post as always.

Grass roots #4 Try not to alienate people.  :agree:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on December 01, 2022, 11:11:12 am
Thank you mrjr. This came about from talking to a friend who was quite furious about these retro-bolts, and almost as ranty as me - but it got me thinking about how to try to tackle the issue more practically and pro-actively. And part of that is trying to work with the primarily-sport-climbers rather than against them. Don't slag them off for their choice but provide encouragement to try trad, to realise the importance of a trad-sport balance, to point out whatever sport is available so they know they have options.

Potash  - I think that is a slightly separate issue to the overall retro-bolting issue (hence me not writing about it), BUT I also agree it's an important issue to consider that could be potentially useful. I personally have less objections to bolted lower-offs on trad than other pro-balance advocates, especially in areas you've mentioned!
Title: fiendblogFive Favourites From 2022
Post by: comPiler on December 23, 2022, 07:00:24 pm
Five Favourites From 2022


Best Albums of 2022:

(Shamelessly copied from my UKB post)

A neat 5 slices of sonic excellence for you:

Tripped - Unboxed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5D-ILHQi_kQ&list=PLR8jjdYYmdaXSYiQRxoYI0c9Izpl1-bAM
(full playlist)
https://prspctrecordings.bandcamp.com/album/unboxed

Prspct dropping Album Of The Year for the 3rd year in a row, but what do you expect from one of the world's premier electronic dance music labels?? Unboxed is an absolute rollercoaster of energetic techno themes from the euphoric to the relentless and back again, but what really make it stands out is how Tripped focuses on a refreshing directness of dance music - there is a bare minimum of the "endless big cheesy breakdown into a predictable drop of empty beats" cliches here. Instead it's all about driving and evolving beats that are constantly layered with atmospheric sounds - danceable and listenable at the same time.


Presha - Rats Infest 1 / 2 / 3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VR1FYauQp0k&list=PLRPUUEqmciasnfYyYEwXy3idJ9pvAePGw

(full playlists)
https://presha.bandcamp.com/album/rats-infest-1
https://presha.bandcamp.com/album/rats-infest-2
https://presha.bandcamp.com/album/rats-infest-3

Samurai Records is another label that can do no wrong, and following last year's highlight of the boss's Rats EP, this is followed up with a seething swarm of remixes that over 2 EPs and a single makes for a superb album across a broad spectrum of proper modern jungle (and bonus breaks on #3). It's hard to resist the cliche of "deep, dark, and deadly", but these tracks are undeniably that, with the usual Samurai creative hallmarks.


Mares Of Thrace - The Exile

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGu5B-JN5b4&list=OLAK5uy_kKTs5FDtbFY-Y80IJXlH9BWwz_6CQqBcI&index=1
(full playlist)
https://maresofthrace.bandcamp.com/album/the-exile

Mares are back after a long hiatus and whilst they're now one Mare and one Stallion, the musical quality of their epic, sexy, groovy, bluesy, quirky dissonant extreme metal blend is as good as it ever was. Lovely.


Samurai - Hannya II

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMSDaEcH5HY&list=PLRPUUEqmciauOgil8nobW2pp6IzgH7ckz
(full playlist)
https://samuraimusic.bandcamp.com/album/samurai-hannya-ii

If the Rats Infest EPs were a broad spectrum of proper modern jungle, Samurai's second Hannya compilation is the FULL spectrum. For a music genre that could seem dated after near 30 years, the future-looking freshness here is a captivating reassurance. From methodical technoid plodders from Mako, minimal tribalism from The Untouchables, serious industrial jungle presha from Presha, and proper fucking nightmare fuel from Artilect, there's a whole lot of quality to take in here.


Origin - Chaosmos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2kzewIKTKY
http://origin-chaosmos.com/ (pain in the arse but is available on digital somehow)

And Origin are back in action with an album that really caught my attention after getting a bit lost with their previous releases. This one is an absolute cracker that has all the brain-warping leadwork and frantic technicality of Origin at their best, but with a whole lot more variety and fun packed into one album, with black and hardcore influences swirling around along with some more traditional tracks. 
 

Source: Five Favourites From 2022 (http://)
Title: fiendblogIt Shouldn't Come As A Surprise...
Post by: comPiler on December 26, 2022, 01:00:24 pm
It Shouldn't Come As A Surprise...


Warning: Contains amateur ramblings and speculation solely based on personal experience and various anecdotes and perceptions, with a complete lack of any research or scientific basis. Also casually uses the term neurodivergence to refer mostly to autistic spectrum divergence and includes relies on the likely assumption that mental health issues such as anxiety and depression are more prevalent therein. Don't like that slapdash approach?? Go read a proper article that might make an ounce of sense!!


It shouldn't come as a surprise...

...that there is a seemingly high correlation between dedicated climbers and neurodivergent people especially on the autistic spectrum (a multifaceted spectrum of various common traits radiating out from a mythical core of "normality", with people having a different profile depending on the prominence of those facets)?? Is it a truism that it's a weird activity for weird people (often in a good way)?? After all, we're designed to swing from trees (jugs) with ease, but what sort of person is designed to sprag quarks 50' above filed down RPs behind a loose flake??

One who is potentially drawn to a relatively atypical activity that is:

  • All-consuming and captivating in a wide variety of ways
  • Rewards intense focus and single-mindedness
  • Is individual-focused rather than a team sport, and is often social on a small, tight-knit scale
  • Has a wide variety of challenges to tackle and stimulation from those
  • Is very much up to the individual how they approach it
  • Can be both very organic and spiritual (locations, flow, beauty of the outdoors) and/or incredibly geeky and cognitive (training, planning, progression, gear)
  • Can be very distracting from the mundanities of normal existence
  • In short allows the climber to be completely obsessive, oblivious to normality, anti-social to the point of sullenness, devoid of conventional emotion, driven by numbers and tactics and other minutiae, etc etc. Or indeed rewards them for being so... What's not to like?!
Climbing is just a sport. Or just a lifestyle. Like many others. But I genuinely believe that those factors above are more prominent than in most activities, and also that climbing just has so much going on it, so many ways to engage and enjoy it, that make it a truly captivating activity. Spending day after day in the bitter cold trying to do two moves on micro-edges is climbing. Watching the sun set over the sea at the top of a new route of unknown rock with the smell of sea-gull shit being the only reference point is climbing. An-pow-cap wanking over Lattice clickbait is climbing (ish). Chatting to your mate and sharing a snack bar on a half-way ledge on a big multi-pitch is climbing. Jumping between resin blobs is climbing and trudging through the snow to stick to vertical slopers is climbing.

So it's captivating. It just needs a target to capture, a willing victim or unwitting prey... And with so many factors that are seemingly suitable for some form of neurodivergence, that's the best hunting grounds. Sometimes you get juicier, more prestigious prey. Maybe people like JD, JMcC, ET, DMcC etc seem to be the finer trophies on climbing's wall.

(At least, historically so. With the increase in comfortable consumerist climbing as the gym-style gateway into the sport (and the relatively simplicity of that), maybe the mainstream is taking over, with an increase in neurotypical participants. Ugh)


Completely normal activity. Nothing to see here.

It shouldn't come as a surprise...

...that I am one of those people. 

People sometimes ask why did I choose climbing.

The answer is: I didn't, IT chose ME. 

(Stupid fucking activity.)

I've been dedicated to climbing for over 20 years, and from the start, after having sampled and spurned many sports and activities, it just seemed right to me (somewhat incongruously with my athletic background of, errr, painting toy soldiers). I've seen it through thick and thin, highs and lows, illness and injury and injury and injury, I've battled a fair amount of feeling physical and mental unsuitable for it because it's still just seemed right. And I've always been inspired, always been determined, almost always loved it (and when I haven't it's due to inhibitions getting in the way). 

I've also had my own tastes and my own drives which are often an incongruous melting pot by climbing's already oddball standards. Most of those examples above and more (well apart from the Latticewanking, fuck that) have drawn me in, with a pretty personal and sometimes peculiar focus.

So no surprises. I am neurodivergent, and that is intrinsically linked to climbing choosing me, me being swallowed alive by it, and being digested to be at one with that activity. "High-functioning (-ish!!) aspergyers" (as it was described back then) personality with a tendency to depression and anxiety (I've done a lot of work in the past on the social/emotional/relational issues that are common and were very prevalent in my youth - I know, imagine what a knobhead I was back then. Still a work in progress of course). 

That's me. It's not something I want to write about, nor broadcast publicly. With a bit of a, ummm, particular personality already, I can already be a bit of a target, and I don't want to me more of one. But equally I don't want to be hidden away when being open about these things could be beneficial to me, and even to people around me. In recent years - more specifically this year - the depression and anxiety and other old issues that have been snapping at my heels have caught me up as injury and age and personal issues have slowed me down, and.....they kinda nip hard. And whilst I'm tackling that myself, I'm also needing help and support, so I've had to take the risk, make myself vulnerable and open up. 

I'm writing this because I want to clear it up. And for any people who are wondering "Yeah right why is that belligerent sod Chief Inspector Twat Of The Ethics Police, amateur chossaneer and relentless contrarian coming across as such a needy, fragile fanny these days??" - now you know. Because it's all part of that same personality, all sides of the same coin (and indeed the Chief Twat is all part of the coin of being passionate about climbing). Loving grovelling up silty chimneys on Red Wall // being out looking at the most beautiful scenery with an empty heart because I don't understand what it all means - it's all part of it; Walking 2 hours with 2 pads and 2 gammy legs to do the best hand crack boulder problem in the UK // pacing around my living room at 8am in the morning because I'm frantic about indecision on going to Ratho in a team of 3 - it's all part of it.  And this bewildering and challenging melting pot of personality traits is something I perceive as fairly common, whether people need to admit it or not. I've had to...and hope it works out.


Source: It Shouldn't Come As A Surprise... (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: slab_happy on December 26, 2022, 04:16:11 pm
Fistbump of neurodivergent solidarity!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Duncan campbell on December 26, 2022, 05:13:42 pm
From one neuro-divergent climber to another, Fiend, I truly hope you succeed in continuing your journey through this world and on your mental health path.

I for one, love reading your posts on UKB, irrespective of whether I agree with them. Your witty and banterous typings always brighten up my day.

Be kind to yourself  :)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: scragrock on December 26, 2022, 05:41:29 pm
Well said Duncan :)


 
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Wellsy on December 26, 2022, 05:48:41 pm
Yeah great post. Big respect!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: sxrxg on December 26, 2022, 08:00:16 pm
Really enjoyed this post. Whilst I have no diagnosis I have always been a bit of an outsider which is why climbing seemed to become the lifestyle (note that it at no point was it a sport...) for me. There are still the weirdos out there climbing and doing there own thing just with increased participation you seem to bump into them less often, this is a shame as this was one of the things I really enjoyed about the wall, huts and other social climbing settings.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: rginns on December 26, 2022, 11:37:57 pm
Great blog Fiend, plenty in there to think about for many of us  ::)
Title: fiendblogCatching up on much bouldering.
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2023, 01:02:52 am
Catching up on much bouldering.


Yeah this is a bit overdue. Blanket lockdowns irrespective of transmission risk, recovering from previous injury, winter weather, what-fucking-ever. It's spring now, the Lime Caller set a new benchmark of farcically bad lime calls with a call just before blizzards hit the Peak and then it went back to crisp grit connies. The punishment being that May started with a monsoon oh well. So here's a catch up on stuff I fitted in here and there. Esoteric gems ahoy!!


Grit Oddities 2 - Yorkshire
A right smorgasbord of all sorts! Roadside highballing, moorland pebble-pulling, woodland crimping, urban roofs... And some real personal challenges.

Photo Finish 7A (7A+?)
Something that inspired me a couple of years ago and turned into a proper seige... It got right into my brain and the middle couple of sessions had me leaving thinking "fuck this" (trying to move my left hand whilst holding the high gaston had me wanting to headbutt the crag and chew the pads in frustration), only to return again despite myself... And well, yeah, it is ace overall.

For Locals Only 7A+ (7A(!)?)
Local exercise and all... Actually this should be on *everyone's* wishlist (especially after I thoroughly cleaned it on ab on a previous visit). Brilliant fingery pop to a jug, then a life-affirming highball finish - that had me shaking with adrenaline for many minutes! A 10 second walk-in means it's easy to lug pads in, and then there's the project wall just right...

Pochette Surprise 6C (6C+/7A?)
This had been on my radar for a while, and I finally braved the alpine approach fucked legs and my stack of pads, and of course it was totally worth it - it has an all out pebble move for God's sake! I had to summon a lot of faith and my face at the end says it all.

Pocket Pull Pond 6C
Terrible name for a really cool problem. Although the pond over the top was solid ice which was quite fun. A rather scenic spot but prone to returning to nature at quiet a sprint, hence any highballing plans were abandoned in favour of this cool face climb which took all my determination to stay adhered to the middle crimps!

Stone Love 6A/6B (6A+?)
An unknownchoss.com special! Is it downgrading Will Hunt or upgrading dunnyg?? Who cares, it's actually a pretty neat little problem despite the coarse and "newish" rock. Definitely worth a detour from the honeypots for.

Galling Groove 6C+ (6B+/C?)
A mini-gem which just about transcends it's fairly grotty adjacent rock with a neat line, neat height, and neat moves. Go there on a nice day.

Busta Groove V5 (V6 w/o kneepad?)
A pro-tip from Jordan that this can dry quick despite it's woodland location, but this one is Nao's problem. Just plain good fun. I couldn't the knee to work enough to reach the top direct so hard to rely on a toe-hook - rare for me and quite satisfying.




Grit Oddities 2 - Peak
Aretes? Aretes!

Geisterspiel 7A
One of Mark20's nu-skool classics at Rivelin Quarries - and on the same day someone was working his nu-skool classic E7 at the far left too! I've had some fun days with M20 - he wears ron hills, has a pet dego, and likes a bit of black metal. I was totally psyched to do this problem as it is legitimately brilliant, as good as any grit arete despite the lack of top-out. Great compression moves and a cheeky toe-scum for me to finish. 

James' Arete 6C (6B+?)
Another new addition, not sure of the actual name! With all of the base-of-crag bouldering gems scattered along it, I was speculating that Rivelin Quarry now has a better circuit than Bas Cuvier. Except less pof, quieter vibes, less hordes of bellends, etc....

Sambucus 6C (6C+?)
King lines come to Woolley Edge! An undeniable classic of esclating difficulty and a committing move to a clean top-out.

Lessons In Depth 7B (7A)
Grade change due to using different beta from Mike Adam's first ascent on every single move! Then again if you're a 6 foot 8C climber you might not be looking for 7A vs 7B beta, even if you could tell the difference... Despite it's proximity to the mud slope, this is another great problem with flowing and involved movement.

Gazelle 7A+ (6C/+?)
The problem I initially went to do and left me standing around wondering "oh, what next?". Another good line despite the grading nonsense, slightly easier and not quite as fine as Sambucus, but makes a good triptych!

Pepper Mill V5
A rare visit to conventional pastures, although according to G, this gets relatively little attention, despite, of course, it being brilliant. It was bloody freezing in the wind, and having to wear wellies for the "Scotland+++" bog level walk-in, my feet went numb and didn't thaw out for 45 mins with the car heater on full.

Kappix 7A
A salvaged day, and indeed salvaged problem, when the Peak was snowbound and the frosting on the trees at Harthill was quite beautiful. We went to try Scrapheap Challenge - I built as best a tyre platform as I could and was trying the strict starting method. I lunged for the lip hold, spun off leftwards and missed the pads, so we moved them. A few more goes, I half caught the lip hold, long enough to swing rightwards and miss the pads on that side.... We moved onto Kappix which had a really cool move to stood up and I had to finish rightwards as I couldn't do the reach leftwards. Later video browsing showed people doing Scrapheap without that eliminate start and with about 30 tyres padding the landing instead of 6....




Baildon Bonanza
I've always liked Baildon for routes. Now I like it for bouldering too.

Who Are We... 7A+
The kingest of lines! Terrible name (bollox to dad rock), beautiful problem. It hadn't been on my radar as it's at the very upper fringes of my ability, but then I started playing around... And yes, it really is that good, especially with this more natural start and static finish (I loved my impromptu press off the groove to get my weight up). Celebrity spotting by DJ Perc and Jarvis Cocker!

The Baildon Stem 6C+
Done as a consolation prize after being unable to get near the rat crimp start of Quaint Groove, but fun in it's own right. Not sure about this foot in the chip malarkey, but this way seemed natural to me. 

The Mantel 7A (6C+?)
This was the catalyst for my Baildon bouldering. I'd always assumed it would be too hard and too thuggy for the short and heavy, actually it's just plain great fun. Once I worked out I could do it, it made my day.

Suggy's Wall 7A
It took quite a few visits to get on this when it's not too hot (i.e. above 0'C for this problem!!) or seeping. A lovely bit of wall with some very small crimps on the crux and an E1 5b finish that has never seen E4 6b in it's life!!

The Oik SS 6C+ (6C?)
Strong line, soft grade - I'd have flashed it if I'd cleaned the slightly scrittly finger ramp properly. A nice problem from the sitter or the stand, also my ex-girlfriend had cats she'd nicknamed "greedy wee oiks", so I'm fond of the name.




Peak Slabs In The Woods Triptych
A fun concept to explore: Cool slabs hidden on boulders in the woods below main crags!

Sunset Crack 7A (6C/+?)
Terrible name, brilliant problem. Great location, great rock, gentle landing, a distinctive chickenhead feature to go for, continuous moves, and lots of little features to work out a sequence on. One of the best in the Peaks!

Yorkshire Farmer 6C+ (6C?)
This might have been put up by one of UKC's prime headpunting chodes, but it's still a great find. Crimpy! I also did the more direct version where you don't swerve onto the ramp at the last minute, also good and not much harder.

Dreamboat Direct 6C/7A (6C+?)
Not really a slab at all where it matters - more like a vertical wall on which you have to hold on really hard on some minging rounded, frictional holds. Hence struggling like balls on my first session and having to come back and cruise up it in much fresher conditions. Still a cool bit of rock in a nice location (but scarcely 100m below the main crag) and the spooky stand-up out of the starting pocket is slabby enough....



Clattering Stones Circuit:
Somewhere that I'd always wanted to visit, both due to the cool-sounding circuit but also a relatively easy drive from home. But it's the furthest West-most grit in Yorkshire on a North-facing slope and the amount of times I've driven up out of Nelson into swirling mizzle and CLART and had to continue on to Scout Hut or Baildon or wherever... Finally got there in a fine dry period with a forecast of fog lifting to sunshine, well it didn't but the rock was bone dry and it was a great day.

Linea Negra 6C+
The first bit of rock that appealed to me, with a lovely selection of subtle features in an equally subtle scoop. Unfortunately it turns out that the obvious method is to crank past most of it, thus getting it done pretty quickly. If you're at this boulder for a while, trying to work out every possible method on this problem would be fun.

Fontanelles 6C+
A very attractive wall with climbing to match. A bit tricker for the short as I couldn't do the "reach off good left sidepull to high right edge" method, and had to combine a cheeky toe hook with a terrible smear for the right hand for alternate beta.

Androsterone 7A
The highlight of the day! Not only a technical delight with full usage of the toe-catch and thoughtful hand sequences, but a real fight trusting the distant left foot and reaching the top. I felt satisfied and my fingers felt worked after this.

Morning Sickness static 6C (6C+?)
I tried the dyno. Fuck dynos. I'm short, heavy, and despite strongish legs, very slow and not springy. The static sequence, despite the guidebook nonsense, is at least as good - varied, technical, and precarious. Distinctly harder than LN and F for me, but if you were a few inches taller and could use either the first lip sloper properly, or the main lip sloper, it would be a lot easier.

Love Handles 6B+
This took a fair bit of scrittle brushing off the top. Cool line though, with switching laybacks.

-------

That's it for now. Maybe more of the same catching up soon-ish!



Source: Catching up on much bouldering. (http://)
Title: fiendblogMoonboard? Manorboard!
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2023, 01:00:05 pm
Moonboard? Manorboard!

 

Power-to-weight is a constant battle. Too little of the former, too much of the latter. The latter I can do very little about as the DVTs prevent easy CV exercise and the b0rked digestion (and healthier diet to try to alleviate it) simultaneously gives me lower energy without any weight reduction. I once asked an established climbing coach I met at the crag about the general issue, and the short answer was "It's fine to be really heavy, you just have to be really fucking strong too", and the disclaimer "The trick is to get strong without getting injured". I haven't booked a masterclass quite yet. 

But yes the former I can at least try to do something about and maybe I should try a bit harder instead of spinning the ledge shuffling and esoteric bouldering and quick easy redpoint plates. Actually, I have lost a couple of kilos this summer (a dozen to go...), and this is almost entirely due to some hefty days out combining ledge shuffling with inimical walking. One edge of this sword is a tiny improvement in fitness and lightness, the other edge is a severe blunting of any power. Hauling my carcass up to Dow for two 6A+ moves, or a full day trudging back and forth around The Range doesn't actually get you strong, who would have thought it?? And when the buffer between my sport / bloc ability and my trad desires often feels as thin as a midge's scrotum, there's something to heed there.

A while ago I realised how dire the situation was that I was a solid grade and a half below my redpointing at this time last year, despite not having the restrictive nonsense of a spring lockdown to crawl back from. By chance the revamped Awesome Stockport bouldering room has a vastly better selection of holds and problems on nice angles, the same terrible decor and ear-vomittingly awful dad rock soundtrack, AND a new Moonboard with wooden holds, which lured me in with promises of a convenient skin-friendly power top-up. 

Naturally I took to this like a cat to water, although admittedly it was as much an issue of the constant "so farcical it's gone beyond hilarious and back around into tediously unfunny" pseudo-grading, the common terrible setting by morons who should be blocked off the MB app, and the often entirely useless feet-follow-hands style which given the larger holds on the easier problems reduces most situations to neanderthal lurching between relative jugs whilst pretending that "finger strength" and "core tension" are not relevant things to be trained. But at least the app makes it vaguely easy to sift through all the dross that actually gets in the way of training to find the occasional sandbag gem that might actually get me stronger. 

After a few sessions moaning my way through the 40° steepness I didn't feel any weaker, so en route back to Gogarth for some Red Walls trough squirming I stopped off at Manor Crag which has always looked fairly aesthetic for limestone. Given the angle of the place I had initial hopes that it could be a good test to see if the Moonboard had given me any hint of a power top-up, but on first viewings I remembered this same angle is my definite anti-style and resigned myself to merely getting a workout failing on everything, and at least it's more scenic than the AWMB. 

But then this happened....




....which was quite a shock to me. I know, climber in "trains a bit on a steep board and then does okay on steep board-ish style climbs" shocker, hold the fucking press. Actually in terms of tackling challenges, this is one of my very best bouldering days out ever, it didn't even feel like a training day because it was over so quick. A few notes: Jawa I missed the flash simply because I forgot my planned sequence and where to bump my hand to. Patch's Crack I missed the flash because I didn't seat the hand jam right a couple of times. Cracked Roof I missed the flash because I didn't get my thumb fully in the jam first time - all very close things!! All very good fun too.

Anyway recently I went back on the Moonboard a couple of times, there's a Font """""6B+""""" that I've tried at least a few times each session for 6 sessions now. I'm almost close. Almost. 



Source: Moonboard? Manorboard! (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Liamhutch89 on April 04, 2023, 01:24:39 pm
Well done, it's good to see you having some success!

I couldn't agree more with the general standard of setting being abysmal on the Moonboard and all the other commercial boards if you want to train for rock climbing. I tend to just set my own problems so I can concentrate on more realistic moves, have you tried this? It's more fun creating your own too!
Title: fiendblogSolace??
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2023, 07:00:10 pm
Solace??

 
So. I lost my confidence, I lost my motivation for organising away trips, I got depressed.

I came up with a cunning plan to deal with this: 

I delayed the climbing that I was struggling with, I put on hold the more complex trad challenges, relinquished them to next spring, and started to think about preparing for that in advance.

I gave myself a focus for training, taking a slightly longer term view to try to address my genuine need to have a bit more in reserve physically to tackle those challenges, and anticipating winter to be a good time for that.

I dialled my climbing back to something that was manageable but enjoyable and could contribute to progression: Logistically easy but physically challenging, mostly bouldering, often starting exploring Welsh limestone.

In short I sought solace in enjoying the physical aspect of climbing, whilst relaxing a bit and being patient and preparative.

...

Then I went bouldering on the top of the Little Orme on a bitterly windy day. One of the craglets had the cold wind raking along it and I had to wear a duvet jacket just to try to start climbing.  That was the sheltered crag - at the exposed one I could barely stand up to look at the lines and had to walk back at a 30' angle so I didn't get blown back to Manc. Back at the former I was looking for an autumn project to push myself on, and decided the best course of action was to warm up by vigorously brushing some holds (this did deceptively raise my core temperature), not tape my niggling elbow, and start working a 45' overhanging beyond-my-limit project move-by-move... 

Maybe I didn't notice how badly I'd aggravated my golfer's elbow because everything had gone numb?? Whichever way, I am a fucking idiot.

Solace - gone. Training plans - gone. Relaxation - gone.

Depression - back, with reinforcements and heavier anti-Fiend weapons.

The overall plan for this time had been: Get fitter, get stronger, get more powerful, get more confident physically, get better prepared for next trad season.

Now the imminent future is: Get less fit (and heavier?), get weaker, get less powerful, get more timid and much less confident physically, feel increasingly distant from any trad season.

...

What I'm doing of course is rehab (with good advice from Process), gentle climbing (at least gritstone bumblecircuits are quite pleasant, and indoor walls have plenty of slabs and non-pulling nonsense on them these days), keeping active by going out exploring, going to the gym, and focusing on the minimal things I can train: core, and especially flexibility. Interestingly since I've been doing less proper climbing and more of the latter, I've got all sorts of pains around my hips, buttocks, groin, knees etc. Nothing too inhibitive but extra physical niggles that actually I don't really need.

I still have the same cunning Plan B mentioned at the start of this post, but it's all pretty much delayed until I've healed my elbow to a manageable state. Thus any updates around here are going to be pretty sporadic, unless I find any ethics to rant about. Anyone seen any peg-bolted lower-offs recently??

Anyway here's a couple of things from the recent but very distant-seeming time when I only had mental inhibitions:

A nice little boulder problem.


A fairly mediocre video mostly due to the light and angles and forgetting my camera and using my phone fingertaped to a tripod, but it was only a few days before I properly aggravated my elbow and it does show I was pretty confident with both cranking up things and jumping off things (even though some of those drop-off landings felt as hard as the climber is heavy!!).



Source: Solace?? (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on April 04, 2023, 08:53:06 pm
These are old posts being bumped because Compiler is drunk AF btw.
Title: fiendblogDiary of DOG.
Post by: comPiler on April 05, 2023, 01:03:54 am
Diary of DOG.


Hello I am Nunu aka Noodles, Mari and Terry's 12 year old husky-alsatian cross. I like pulling on the lead all the way to the crag, sleeping at
the crag on anyone's down jacket, begging for food, trying to steal
people's lunches, and then pulling on the lead all the way back from the
 crag. Anyway "Fiend" (who is clearly quite daft) somehow volunteered to dogsit me whilst M and T were
 off galivanting so I write guest dog guest blog to tell everyone
 about grand adventures.


Day 1 - Talfarach, Llanbedrog, Gesail

WHY YOU DOGNAPPING ME IN SMOL CAR WITH TECHNOS??

Doesn't
 seem right. Where's the big van? Why don't I have bouldering mats
toppling onto my head at any slight bump? Where are we going?

Oh okay through a farm with really rude dogs who do the Big Barks and snap at me and have no manners and fuck off.

What now tied under a boulder in the shade no I want to be in the sun and frying alive. Where you going?? What is "recce offwidth with horrible landing"?? Doesn't sound like dog treats to me.


SRSLY NOT SURE ABOUT THIS.

Oh
 okay you gave me smol bit of egg that rolled into crack in the rock and
 now I can spend 15 minutes trying to lick it out this might be okay.



Not convinced by broccoli. Would prefer your dinner.


Day 2 - Porth Howel, Carreg Lefain

I AM BIG BRAVE ADVENTURE DOG, I DON'T CARE ABOUT HORIZONTAL RAIN.


I
 am husky x alsatian I bite terrorists hunt down trolls and yeti and
have impenetrable fur so yes rain lets go down to the crag even if I
have to be pushed back up that awful gravel gully 2 paws up 3 paws down.


Also great recceing skills at the second crag well done at least I can still pull on the lead.



Day 3 - Porth Dafrach, Benllech

YES I AM GOING TO YELP AND SQUEAK FOR NO APPARENT REASON UNTIL YOU PUT YOUR JACKET BACK DOWN FOR ME.


I
 mean what do you expect. The Range area is lovely as you said and you
gave me biscuits and Emyr gave me a bit of bread crust but I have to
fuss about something and the jacket is very nice thank you it just needs
 extra fur to replace the down.




DEAD ROTTING SEAL, I WANT DEAD ROTTING SEAL.


Mmmmokay
 biscuits are fine breadcrusts are fine but really as a husky I live on
dead rotting seal. Important diet, very nutritious. Will sulk a lot if I
 don't get rotting seal. Just watch me.


Day 4 - Porth Ceiriad, Porth Howel

YES
 LET ME OFF LEAD ON THIS GIANT BEACH AND A I PROMISE I WON'T RUN MILES
BACK TO JOIN IN A KID'S FOOTBALL GAME AND GET SHOUTED AT. PROMISE
PROMISE THXBYETHEN.


Okay that was a great promise. Worked well.
Oh now we're in a quiet, safe corner with a dog who I just said hello to  and wanted to play with, yes let me off again. Okay I will just stand
here and do nothing now. Nunu reasonz.

GOATS, I WANT GOATS





Back
here again seriously why come on. Okay you had to carry me over bad
steps to the rock ramp but why. Ah bouldering. Yes you're close to that
project, well done but GOATS now I can bark like a fucking lunatic at
goats because you needed the distraction P.S. GOATS.


Day 5 - Carreg Lefain

YAAAY RAFE'S TUPPERWARE LUNCH BOX IS THE CHALLENGE I WANTED.



I'm
 big brain husky x alsatian, I need serious thinking challenges.
Stealing water bottles too easy. Creating n-dimensional cat's cradle of
long lead too easy. Tupperware good brain stimulation. Rafe said lunch
had lots of chilli. No problem. More brain stimulation.
 


Day 6 - Penmaen Head Trench Wall

BEST
 IDEA IS TO GET TANGLED WITH DAVE LYON'S DOG MILO, TREAD ON HIM WHEN WE
FALL OVER, THEN EVERYONE CAN SNAP AND SNARL. YES GOOD PLAN.



Okay
all that was too exciting, maybe I need my breakfast now which I never
eat at breakfast time. Even better if you have to go up this vertical
steps back to the car to get it. Much fun. Then I can guzzle whole lot
and still try to steal your lunch. I have best plans.



Day 7 - Porth Howel

FOR FUCK'S SAKE NOT THIS GRAVEL SCRAMBLE AGAIN.

You better have a plan to get me back up seriously. I might need to get
goats again. Also 3 bouldering mats good luck with that I'm a big brave
adventure dog not a porter.




ROTTING SEAGULL, I WANT ROTTING SEAGULL.


Not
 as good as seal but since Hosey said this cove is completely enclosed
and secure and dog-friendly, I'm allowed to hunt out every rotting
seagull carcass right?? Yum.


Day 8 - Cwm Orthin

OKAY THIS IS NICE TO I'M GOING TO PULL ON THE LEAD EXTRA MORE.


Ooohhh,
 I know this place. Close to home, very relaxed, soothing. Good time to
pull on the lead and try to chase sheep even though they'd beat me up.
But I'm not scared. Big brave adventure dog.


Still not convinced by broccoli. Maybe Hula Hoops instead.


Many sleeps and dream of goats.


Source: Diary of DOG. (http://)
Title: fiendblogAnother Fallow Year
Post by: comPiler on April 05, 2023, 01:00:11 pm
Another Fallow Year

 
"It's okay", said the ginger beastlette, "sometimes you just need to have a fallow year. Take a step back from pushing yourself, from doing major challenges, from aiming for strong inspirations. Let yourself recover, let the spirit and psyche regrow. It's what serious climbers and actual athletes would do."

And she was right.

I did have to take a step back due to physical and mental health issues. A step away from challenges and inspirations and exciting destinations. A fallow spring and summer - when the weather was hot and everyone was in the shady mountains, I was grumping away at the climbing wall, when the weather was generally nice and people were exploring crags all over, I was day-tripping to grotty sport bollox to masochist myself redpointing. The amount of big ticks that got away was the only big number around, but it was all I could cope with - and I was keeping my activity levels and climbing strength up. God redpointing is bollox, but it does keep you moving and pulling hard.

So come autumn, inhibitive issues had alleviated a bit, and my body was ready to keep climbing, the physical GAINZ from the redpointing bollox paid off, and I had as good a big inspiration / major challenge trad autumn as I ever had (...for the last time, it seems...). So the fallow period did indeed work.

...


The thing is, this was 2018, not 2022. 2022 is another fallow year, but it's a very different fallow year.

2018 was about digestive issues, occasional debilitating nausea bouts, the fragility that left me with (go on a camping trip to the north west with those looming over me?? nope...), and the associated vagal depression - the latter having a clear cause and not being too overwhelming. The rest of my body was holding up okay (including a complete lack of decade-long golfer's elbow that cleared up within a week of the reflexologist I was seeing for my digestion finding "a strong pressure point reaction indicating upper left limb issues") and my physical ability to dick around on the rock in between dangling off bolts was as good as it's been post-DVTs/post-weight-gain. Once the bouts became more sporadic and the increased citalopram and CBT kicked in, I could put that into action.

2022 the digestive issues are not an issue. The perma-injury is, and the associated cumulative depression from that combining with age, perma-heaviness, old mental health issues and new personal issues. Full golfer's elbow from late September 2021 to <checks date> late November 2022 (and counting...) with only a brief respite in March/April, plus LCL injury from December 2021 to March 2022, plus tennis elbows in February/March then May 2022 has meant I've had only the slightest chance to get a meagre period of near-normal climbing strength (March/April), and no chance whatsoever of getting any fitness nor confidence. 

This fallow year is not only about taking a step back from pushing myself, from major challenges, from strong inspirations, it's about taking a step back from the positive physical side I sought solace in in 2018, the side that enabled me to keep going and come out with my climbing ability intact. In fact it's about taking a step back from most of the positivity in climbing in general.... I came out of 2018 with my physical ability probably slightly improved, and maybe my confidence from getting through the fallow year. I'm going to come out of 2022 with almost everything about my climbing worsened, apart from possibly flexibility, which I have managed to "train" a little bit, by not avoiding stretching quite as much as before! Maybe there will also be some benefits to the groundwork I've been forced to do about mental health issues, but that won't be evident yet.

This is a fallow year from which nothing is going to regrow in the foreseeable future...

...


I said a step back from most of the positivity in climbing. Not all. There have been a few very brief moments of strong inspiration rather than treading water waiting and hoping for it all to pass. This was one, by random chance something that was interesting in it's obscurity and challenging in a way which mostly bypassed my injury.




An interesting process and the name just came to me.



Source: Another Fallow Year (http://)
Title: fiendblogThe Shock Of The New 2022 - Boulder Problems
Post by: comPiler on July 11, 2023, 01:01:00 am
The Shock Of The New 2022 - Boulder Problems


Boulder Problems:

Welsh Coastal Crags:

Porth Howel

[Noodles / Multiple Choice]

Noodles
Named after Noodles of course :). Hosey introduced me to Porth Howel in the pissing drizzle, and after too many visits I finally filled this gap before the sun crept onto it. Porth Howel is a lovely spot, with a spectacular walk down to it, and the mischievous pebbles that sometimes obscure the problems' starts also provide a welcoming atmosphere and good lone wolf landings. Noodles is a bit of an eliminate, but it's on great, aesthetic rock, has cool techy and powerful moves, and I had to put some damn effort in.

Multiple Choice
Pointed out by Senor Hoseo on the same day, and indeed we both gave the start a good go because it was staying dry-ish. I came back, and this also took a few sessions, probably because I was alternating between it and Noodles to make sure I was getting too fatigued overall but also only getting close to both as they were coming into the sun. So named because there were many confusing options at the start, and on the easier but committing finish.

Stinky Pool Issue
A nice leisurely afternoon out with Head Mafioso Pantontino, having checked out Ty Mawr in the morning, before decamping to Porth Dinllaen for some easy circuiteering and finally the Ty Coch beachside pub for post-match analysis of course. SPI was a nice techy traverse of the main block that I was surprised to get before Si, and it worked quite well despite the potential Stinky Pool Issue in the landing ;). 

Welsh Rhinog Grit:

Ysgyfarnagod

[Ends Of The Earth / Twisting By The Llyn / The Rematch]

End Of The Earth
Named because it was the first (or last) problem on the craglet, and the expansive view from the remote ridge feels like you're well away from the rest of the earth, and because, well, the 2020s have been a bit gash haven't they, and who knows where it's all going?? 

Twisting By The Llyn
Named after the twisty moves and the welcoming refreshment of Llyn Ddu scarely 100m away if the sunny grit becomes too much. Part of a charming little Llyn Ddu circuit, itself part of the bigger Ysgyfarnagod circuit, in which the easiest hour walk in the Rhinogs (I did it thrice) takes you to a scenic playground of perfect stone. This was my favourite midgrade problems just due to the techy moves and a committing finish.

The Rematch
So on the first trip Terry took us - inevitably - to a traverse wall, which to be fair was pretty inspiring by his standards. I didn't touch it of course, but did do a few other up problems. On the way out we investigated Llyn Ddu crag which is by far the most obvious bouldering crag in the area - completely untouched since it doesn't really lend itself to traverses (thank god!). Anyway I only did one problem there and insisted that we - or just myself - go back and develop it properly rather than having just one damn problem on the whole crag! The rematch worked well as on the next visit we added a dozen decent and obvious problems.

Inscrutable Urge
This was the sole problem on the first visit, and is pretty cool if done strictly. The name mangles both Calvin and Hobbes AND Mick Fowler quotes, and could there be any greater combination of inspirations?? It's also the only reason I could come up with for committing to a sketchy top above an iffy landing on my first bouldering visit out after recovering from a torn LCL, at dusk, an hour from the road....

Chasing Ghosts
Named from the patio beneath the adjacent new problem, Katz's Here Hare Here, which turns out to be the work of Emyr Jones whom I climbed with on The Range and had previously been exploring Rhinogs bouldering. Despite the patio the lines were too high for a lone wolf, so we ended up picking them off as a larger team. HHH is the king line, but CG is one of the nicest new problems I've done, cool moves via a hidden crimp to a finish on the most perfect rounded jugs, all in one of the most stunning locations in the entire country.

The Pit And The Punterdom
The pit provided, well, the pit, and I provided the punterdom. There's a TT E4 6b that goes diagonally across the wall above this, and an E8-ish mega project directly through the centre. My wee sitter provides an alternative for anyone feeling more leisurely.

No Stone Unturned
A good combination with the above, and another fun wee problem, so named because the boulder cluster was initially disappointing (as so many in the rock-strewn Rhinogau are), but exploring all aspects of it revealed a couple of good lines.

Nunus Is Good News
A short sitter beneath Terry's traverse wall ("which one?" you ask. #85243 I think). Funnily enough Mari who is the goddess of short sitters couldn't do this because it was 6A compression instead of 7A+++ rat crimps. Mostly done so I could give it this name. Noodles tried to steal Hula Hoops this day. I say she deserves them.

Counterintuitive Bollox
The first new problem I did in Y Rhinogau and indeed this year. Just named because it was a bit odd and didn't climb how it looked, but still quite fun.

Fridd Hare Crag:

[Snootbooper / Neither Ear Nor There / Mezzanine Ridge / Groove / Compress To Impress / Landward Arete / Pillar Of Pain]

Snootbooper
Named because Pylon King - stoic page-setter of the forthcoming guide - had explored years ago and nicknamed the feature and his stand-up line The Rabbit. The sitter awaited and was much easier than expected with steady compression moves past a truly lovely sloper pinch, on the usual immaculate rock.

Neither Ear Nor There
The sidewall of The Hare, another one where the name is better than the climb, but then again the climb is still pretty fun - most ways into the sidewall didn't really work until a stretch into a hold adjacent to Snootbooper unlocked it.

Fridd Oak Tree Wall:

Mezzanine Ridge
Mezzanine Groove
Simple problems with simple names. The Mezzanine boulder has climbing on almost all aretes and all sides so ended up being pretty good value.

Compress To Impress
Another example of how bewildering it is climbing with the maturing lady crimp waif that is Mari. She totally didn't get the compression on this, so let me flash the FA. I've tried some of her 6C-ish sitters and can't even hold the holds left alone imagine moving between positions.

Half Baked Idea
The main line on the boulder that didn't really work - great features but the blankness below forces a disappointingly high start on them, make it feel like half a problem. The much harder sitter awaits...

Pillar Of Pain
Another problem with "issues". The best easy line in Y Rhinogau, with one of the worst landings for it's height. i.e. it doesn't really have one - hence the name. Thus it's a bit wasted on underperforming boulderers who won't fall off. 

Landward Arete
So named because it's more part of the parent crag than the Mezzanine block. It didn't look like much but climbed pretty well.

Welsh Elsewhere:

Craig Y Clipiau / Cwm Orthin

[Sais Highway / Slim Pickings / Squeezing One Out]

Sais Highway
Named after the new A487 Caernarfon bypass that ferries sais conts to the Llyn in unprecedented European-quality comfort. Apparently unclaimed and possibly unclimbed, this is a striking line right on the Craig Y Clipiau approach and 5 minutes from the carpark. Maybe too dodgy pre-pads and not "sick" enough since them? It's also damn good with plentiful holds allowing the arete to succumb to a steady au cheval approach.

Slim Pickings
It's a slim groove and I picked it off as an afterthought...

Bidoight Bypass
A weird traversey line but one that actually works pretty logically. It bypasses the much harder sitter coming from below, but also features cool moves past a duo pocket. 

Diary Of Dog
Yet another TT / Mari traverse / rat crimp sitter combo crag. Thankfully the sitter was too hard on this so I could enjoy a nice wall climb with a fun combo of some poor handholds / good footholds, then some good handholds / poor footholds. I'm pretty sure Noodles was being a bit of a dick this day and Mari told her quite sternly to "stop that nonsense". Never seems to work.

Cwm Teigl / Mignient

[End Game / Diary Of Dog / Earl Of Burl]

End Game
Named in conjunction with a new route I did on the crag above - an arete named End Times as it's a similar twin to End Action on Foel Gron. End Game is also an arete but being a boulder problem, got a more playful name. The Bryn Castell boulder cluster had already been developed by Terry and Mari, and as always they'd focused on traverses and steep lowballs and left the best line of the entire area untouched. Thankfully it even escaped the addition of Ross Barker as he focused on board-style brutality just to the right, leaving me to womble in and find that plentiful holds and a really cool heel-toe made it fairly steady and as good as the line looked.

The Earl Of Burl
This was listed in a topo script as a project, so I went along to give it a go and after a LOT of working stuff out with undercuts and slapping around, managed to do it as a nice arete climb after a burly start. I later found out that Sam T had also climbed this bit of rock in via a fairly obtuse eliminate avoiding the arete that you're right next to and that forms the line, so I'm treating this as a natural FA!

Not Helping
Adjacent to a Pylon King problem "Help Me", thus spaketh the first ascentionist in some concern at the sloping top, naturally I did all I could to assist him i.e. nothing at all! PK was up to meet TT for an important guidebook summit which involved a lot of first ascents from all of us, a lot of cider and red wine for them, and from what I recall, a lot of dog cuddles for me.

The Brail Snail
A nice easier addition to Cwm Teigl that will be good for scaring lower grade climbers and is one of quite a good circuit (if you ignore the cheesegrater lip traverses) on very coarse rock in a very beautiful location. I was chuffed to repeat a neat, thin, Waddy problem "A to Z" 6C on that day.

Dolgellau Forest

[Counterintuitive Bollox / Inscrutable Urge / Bidoight Bypass / Madman Stand / Special Mossatary Operation]

Madman Stand
Another classic example of bouldering with TT and Mari. TT had done a girdle across various bits of rock around this boulder. Mari had done a lone sitter on the shortest bit. They'd left the really good obvious up lines untouched, well I shouldn't look a gift dog in the mouth, so I did them both. This was named because it's a stand start, also because that demented dickscraping Putin had just started trying to fuck up world peace, and as an added bonus Madman Stand is a classic techno album by Robert Armani.

Special Mossatary Operation
Another play on current affairs, still it could be worse, I could be spewing out utterly naff and banal anti-Tory names like nuggets of regurgitated teen angst. Also there might be a bit of moss in the forest, well a bit less once I got the yard broom on these problems.

Squeezing One Out
A wee compression thing. Also my usual behaviour when I get to a crag, especially one in a forest with plenty of moss around!!

Peak / Lancs Grit:

Solace / Solexit
^^ click ^^
Details in the link above!!

Paul's Peach Superdirect
^^ click ^^
I have no idea what new lines I did here if any, as the guide description and UKC logbook are similarly hopeless and contrary, but I expect it was something, maybe even the excellent "two different shoes and one filed down toe rand to fit the pebbles" superdirect?? Regardless it was rewarding cleaning the slab, cleaning up the confusion of lines, and doing some lovely hidden slabbing as elbow rehab.

Another Fallow Year
^^ click ^^
Details in the link above!!

Moonwalk

A perculiar twin to the real Moonwalk (which I did 15 years ago, that now seems like a distant dream), up a flakey arete with a bold but steady teeter around the arete via a hidden pocket. It's a total eliminate avoiding an adjacent corner, but still cool climbing. This was one of a few days out with the irrepressible R-man who is determined to revitalise Lancashire bouldering once more with many new crags and developments for the forthcoming guidebook, you have been warned.

Unnamed, Viewpoint Crag
A sidewall around the corner for Moonwalk. Quite high, quite easy. There will be a pretty good circuit at this crag now, and the walk isn't that bad.

Source: The Shock Of The New 2022 - Boulder Problems (http://)
Title: fiendblogThe Shock Of The New 2022 - Routes
Post by: comPiler on July 12, 2023, 01:00:04 pm
The Shock Of The New 2022 - Routes


Routes:

Wales:

Bryn Castell:

End Times


This was a funny one.... Ever since the cool new Moelwynion guide, I've been keen to go to Bryn Castell and repeat Terry's "Cantorix Is Dead" E3 5c **, up what looked like a cool arete on the main buttress. At the crag I realised - with some insider beta from TT - that CID actually goes left around the arete into a slightly grubby crack, not quite the line I wanted! So I decided to try the arete direct, it all went fine until getting my hands over the top above a micro-cam and slightly-too-good fall potential. I couldn't commit to the blind / sloping pull over, so reversed to a ledge and clipped in whilst my partner Adam H went around to inspect the top. A bit of brushing and digging later, he suggested that *I* also go around and inspect the top as it looked "worryingly bold", so I did. It turned out that there was a good jug slot that just needed a bit more cleaning, I got back on the lead, pulled over, and it was "worryingly easy". I wish Adam had known me a bit better and told me to go for it as it would have been fine first go. Still, it's a cool line, and name comes from this arete being a near twin to TT's "End Action" E3 5c ** at the far end of Carreg Foel Gron, just over the hill.

After this, TT and Mari and Ross B turned up, I already had Noodles at the crag, she escaped her collar to slither down a grass slope, then I watched Ross do some bouldering and Noodles started squeaking because she was bored and once again got told to "stop that nonsense".



Dead End


Another arete which required an "end" name, and could be appropriate if one muffs the final moves. Despite a great line higher up, this has an average start, a scruffy middle with hollow rock, a deviation to place side-runners, and the possibility to hit a sharp glacis edge - so why am I pretty chuffed with it?? Because the moves on the exposed upper arete are just so damn good, perfect elegant monkeying-up-a-stick via spaced flakes jugs and crimps, that will feel pretty committing but very rewarding on an onsight. This was done with Cian K who had joined me on my sole Red Walls adventure lead of the year, the typically excellent Communication Breakdown - the easiest route I'd done on South Stack for a while, and unfortunately highlighted how downhill my climbing had gone when I found it slightly more panicking than exhilarating in places. Anyway on another day I introduced him to the delights of the Mignient with an unpromisingly damp Bryn Castell. We decided to do further cleaning and play on a pre-new-routing top-rope to see if it cleared up, and lo it did, and the final route project at the crag was complete, and we finished by repeating Adam's pleasant Super Infinite HVS 4c too.

Lancashire:

Winewall:


[ Coping Mechanism / A Guided Detour / Exhume To Consume / Whump!! / Soul Searching ]

Coping Mechanism

Named after the amount of quarry cleaning / guidebook work I was doing last summer, which was my main coping mechanism to deal with persistent elbow injury and related persistent shit climbing ability - better than being an alky or a junkie or sitting in a dark room playing games until my eyes bleed, some of it was even good elbow rehab too. This was the first line I spotted in the now legendary Winewall Quarry when I went there on a hot summer's day after doing some cleaning at the lovely Deeply Vale, to meet R-man who was developing some impressive bouldering potential on an adjacent sidewall. It was far too hot for me to climb so I just lounged on his pads and heckled - but only after I'd had a good recce around the quarry and been impressed by the existing lines, and even more impressed by the potential new lines! This began a whirlwind romance with the quarry which still continues this year as I sporadically pick off established routes - it was genuinely exciting to find some much potential in a roadside crag I'd never heard of before. This particular arete has the best Font 5 climbing in the quarry, but the landing drops away too much to make a highball, so easily placed siderunners were needed. A tight line but fun.


A Guided Detour

Named because, well, it's a fairly circuitous, but with the right guidance about where to go on this wall, it's actually got really good climbing. This was a good example of salvaging a decent route out of an impressive face that didn't work direct. Trying to mantle on the lower sandy break leads you into a gearless dead end or too close to the rocky gully on the left, but traversing in from the VS crack is a real nice technical teeter that culminates in a bit of a jump for shorties, and then a fun finish up the headwall. Minus 1 star line, 2 star climbing I reckon.


Exhume To Consume

Named after the Carcass track of course, which I first heard on the legendary John Peel show, and also after the adjacent gully with some unfortunate farmer's debris in. The insalubrious gully aside, this is THE line of Winewall, searing an afterimage into your eyeballs as soon as you look left after the 1 minute approach, it would be a 3 star classic if it wasn't for the start. Originally intended to be gained from the adjacent First Vintage, more perusal of the start and some initial squirming unlocked a direct ascent and enough protection to make the classic arete moves feel reasonable - until you're on the post-crux final easier rock-over...

Whump!!

Named both for the prolapse-inducing lurch to a jug over the roof, but more pertinently in honour of UKB's glorious insect overlord Shark, who had posted a thread complaining about people throwing mats down next to him at Raven Tor (whilst sieging Ben's Roof Sans Kneebar - Day 8304) and kicking up dust in his face like the ignorant bullies they are. This unusual complaint about climbing ethics resulted in some light-hearted mockery, and me sending him a few videos / screenshots of mat throws around the Peaks. The response was an edited screenshot with the motto "The Bigger The Whump, The Bigger The Chump" :). Anyway this route was quite a late discovery after cleaning the adjacent HVS had me spotting a jug in the headwall on the left and yet another new line!! I didn't like bouncing around on the ab rope trying the lurch over the lip, which is very much hostile to the short heavy climber, so I hadn't practised that and had to work it out on lead, which was pretty satisfying even if it's not my favourite sort of move.


Soul Searching

Named because a lot of soul searching was required before deciding to place a peg on this route - especially in the context that at the time a group of passionate Lancs climbers were campaigning hard to get BMC North West Area approval to remove several pointless retrobolts that were ruining good, established trad routes at Winewall. I pondered on the ethics - including the general principle of avoiding fixed gear (I could do the climb easily as a headpointed new route without the peg, but it would provide more encouragement for onsight ascentionists), how it affects the experience (it doesn't protect either crux, but does protect a post-crux grovel onto a ledge that would be a groundfall), and the possible degradation of the peg (it's in a long seam and would be easily replaced) - before hammering it in as it makes a better trad experience for others. Were it that all people placing fixed gear in Lancashire quarries actually applied as much thought and consideration to a single piece of gear, let alone changing a full route...

The route itself was an interesting experience, I'd spotted a line of sidepulls on the seemingly blank lower wall, but with just those it looked too hard and bouldery and I was going to leave it to Dave "mono front lever" Mann. Then a bit more owl-like head-swerving had me spotting opposing sidepulls, a possible compression sequence, and nearby runners, and I had to hoard it for myself. In a twist of fate, Dave came along to do some routes and belayed me, went for a heavy beta flash, fell off reversing a duff sequence on the lower wall, only just clipped the peg, and generally had a jolly fun time and confirmed the grade and quality. Halcyon days!



Peak Grit:

[Omibozu / Bolt Thrower / Gloom Keep / Mobster Lobster]

John Henry Quarry:

Lobster Mobster
Named because the name is fun, I like nautical / marine names on Western Front crags, and it's also a slight reference to a Swollen Members lyric "...mobster, used to eating steaks and lobster...". Yet another route on the impressive right wall at the totally underrated JHQ, revealed after more extensive cleaning - just check out these pictures in the video above compared to the topo picture in the guide. I suspect this wall is now full, and now one of the best training walls for safe and pumpy extremes in the area! This line is a bit escapable as you end up on the edge of a niche shared with the E2 to the right, but still climbs well and is very safe with lots of cams. My other route "Pirate Error" E3 5c * to the left was repeated and enjoyed on a Rucksac club meet this year and the grade and quality confirmed - I then repeated Andy S's very new "Longendale Frights" E3 5c * the same day - a fun action packed day with far more people on new routes than guidebook routes!!

Cracken Edge:

Omibozu (aka Too Hard For Mark20)
Named after a Japanese mythological sea monster that I had been facing in the Nioh PC game, and Cracken Edge tends to require sea monster names... The working name is a both a play on Too Hard For Mark Leach and also a reference to the gritstone ninja who belayed me but somehow declined a beta-flash repeat.... M20 had original been pencilled in to do this project but when I inspected it more thoroughly I found it was feasible for a gritstone punter as a pre-practised new route. M20 did at least repeat my "Summon The Kraken", which I then failed to cleanly repeat on second, ooops. That didn't put me off too much as the teetery Omibozu is a different kettle of sea monsters, so I went for the lead, albeit with some trepidation which made it more rewarding (as well as the neat, delicate moves).

Oldgate Nick:

Bolt Thrower
Named because, well, it's nicknamed Cat Tor, the grossly inferior E5 is named Catapult, I needed an ancient artillery name... Trebuchet? Bolt Thrower! And since that coincided with the mighty Brummie war metal legends, I had to do it as a matter of urgency! This line is a right jolly jaunt and, as can be seen from the brief intro, probably the line of the buttress. I originally went to check out Catapult which looks pretty dire - a couple of campus moves above a leg breaking ledge - but finding this was a greater reward. Apparently it hasn't been done before, well it has now so if you've warmed up at Windgather, have a wee trot over the road!

Coombes Edge:

Gloom Keep
Named after Map 5 from Episode 1 from the mighty Quake PC game, a game which pretty much defined my earlier life when I was doing more gaming than living. Still it's a firm favourite and the very start of this map is one of my favourite scenes from the game. There's old graffiti saying "Keep Off" on the crag and the name just occurred to me.

Anyway this was a pretty significant climb for me to do last autumn. A few days before I'd had a major emotional breakdown as part of acutely recurring depression and had to run away to my friend Katy's for a night where I shuffled around like a zombie but did appreciate the company and support and dog cuddles. On my return I was still extremely fragile and shell-shocked, but the weather and Coel's availability aligned to at least get out of the flat and give this line a go - partly encouraged by it being a glorious evening for a crag with the highest "amazing view to minor esoteric crag" ratio in the area. I faffed around, worked it out, hadn't fully done all the moves on the ab rope, so when it came to the crux turning the lip, I had to properly go for it, and had a moment of unadulterated exhilaration as I did it (just audible at 5:30 in the video). This was quite a surprise after some very bleak and anhedonic days where such simple pleasure was unimaginable. I even managed to walk semi-normally around the Mottram Tesco on the way back without being in emotional trauma just looking at the other, normal, people...



Source: The Shock Of The New 2022 - Routes (http://)
Title: fiendblogHow To Train When You're Depressed As Fuck
Post by: comPiler on July 14, 2023, 01:00:12 pm
How To Train When You're Depressed As Fuck

 
Apparently I wrote this title down sometime in the winter and forgot to write anything in it, or even why I wrote it - apart from the bloody obvious of course... Well maybe I can make some use of it so here goes.

Not everyone responds to depression by being phenomenally obsessed with rigid training, militant motivation, constant exercise and running up Ben Nevis on a rest day. Some of us respond by wanting to curl up in a ball and die or wish the world would fuck off and go away, or usually both.

Unsurprisingly this is absolutely bloody useless for maintaining any form or capability in an active strength / power-to-weight / fitness based lifestyle, and indeed it's the both the polar opposite of that AND the start of the vicious circle where the lack of activity leads to a lack of climbing ability leads to being more depressed leads to a lack of activity leads to etc etc and really there is no amount of FUCKING RIGHT OFF that is enough for that particular cycle.

Accepting that it's both really bloody hard and really bloody important and trying to work around the former to appease the latter is a start. Here are some possible tactics to work with that:

Keep moving
It always boils down to this as the lowest common denominator - and it's a motto which fits with general depression alleviation i.e. do some exercise. Fuck what you should be doing, fuck the training plans, fuck the cycles, fuck working your weaknesses, fuck goals. Just move. It's a start and it will help. Build on that basis, even if the movement isn't even initially relevant to climbing, it can snowball into something more relevant and focused.  

Take the pressure off
Pressure to do well? Pressure to progress?? Pressure to keep strong and fit?? Pressure to "tick grades" or whatever shite the insta-kids of today are obsessed with?? Nope. None of the above. When it boils down to "survive this day to see if things can improve the next day", all of that pressure is OFF. The only pressure is to keep surviving. If that's manageable, the next pressure is to - see #1 here - keep moving. Do whatever you can to avoid worsening your mental and physical situation, if that's manageable,  then do whatever you can to progress or benefit your mental and physical situation. 

Make it fun
God knows you need that right now, right?? This should be obvious but on the spectrum of training from "miserably methodical rigid regime" to "jolly jaunt aping around", you probably need the latter far more than the former, especially if other people are involved (generally more feasible with the latter). Which brings me on to...

The best training is the training you actually do
A good motto in general unless you're the sort of self-discipline end boss mentioned in the intro, but especially so when you're struggling to do anything. It's fine to aim for effective training, but don't force yourself to try to do that in an "all or nothing" way. Whatever you do will be good, because it's something you're doing. And if it's fun enough, and easy enough to motivate yourself to do it, then you'll probably do it enough, and regularly enough, to be effective anyway.

Play the long game
If you're really fucking depressed right now, you're not going to do well at climbing nor training right now, and the focus has to be getting through "right now". It can be hard to see beyond that and anticipate the future, but if it's possible to look at the bigger picture that you might (probably will) get through the current situation, it can help to see that the little bits of exercise and activity right now will add up and benefit you eventually. Most of the time there still is time to get climbing capacity and ability back - aim for short term coping, medium term regaining, and long term progressing.

Turn the volume up
It might be best to tend towards getting climbing volume and mileage in rather than sporadic, harder shorter training sessions. There could be less risk of injury, and having longer sessions will take up more time doing something fun as a distraction from depression, and can tire you out enough to feel more sated afterwards and sleep better.

Take care
The last thing you want is to have an injury - or another injury - to set you back. If depression manifests as a desperation to exercise / get stuff done, a lack of moderation / restraint could be detrimental. Also do your bloody rehab / prehab / warming up / stretching - if you're capable. If not, take it easy!

Acknowledge anything you do
Write a wee diary, tick off each day, write down any exercise, anything you did that could benefit you or your climbing, no matter how small. Whatever it is, it's better than nothing (well, unless you've done enough to need a total rest day). Each bit of exercise or activity is a victory over depression, and to be celebrated.


Okay so, re-reading this, it seems the answer to "How To Train When You're Depressed As Fuck" is.... "You Can't". But more promisingly, it's "You Can't, But You Can Probably Do Lots Of Things To Keep Active And That Will Add Up In Then End For When You're Back On Track (And Help You Get Back On Track"... Good luck.


Source: How To Train When You're Depressed As Fuck (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: duncan on July 14, 2023, 05:18:28 pm
That's one of the better training posts I've read in some time Fiend.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: slab_happy on July 14, 2023, 05:25:35 pm
That's one of the better training posts I've read in some time Fiend.

Seconded! Outstanding advice, and very much fits my experience.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 14, 2023, 05:50:06 pm
That's one of the better training posts I've read in some time Fiend.
Thanks! I wrote it all myself too (as might be obvious from the clear and formal scientific tone...)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: sxrxg on July 14, 2023, 07:03:36 pm
I need to hear this. Have given up on climbing a bit the last couple of months due to lack of mental energy.

Has given me a kick  to start doing something, even if it is not much so hopefully the spark will return.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: shark on July 17, 2023, 09:35:02 am
Whilst not the most fun thing you can do but, when my motivation evaporated at the start of the year, I found just doing weighted deadhangs a couple of times a week worked for me as it required minimal mental effort and organisation. All I had to do was follow the structure and try to beat the previous session’s score.

The sessions were a welcome time-out from life stuff and felt a positive thing to do knowing it was something that I would reap the benefits from when motivation did return even though at the time it was hard to imagine motivation ever coming back.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 17, 2023, 09:49:02 am
That might not be the most fun, although god knows it's gotta be more fun than any endurance type bollox, but it definitely fits in the category of "most manageable" and "do whatever you can do" - although somewhat cheekily also in the category of "pretty damn effective"  ;)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: sxrxg on July 17, 2023, 12:52:12 pm
Went to the wall at the weekend on a damp/wet day and this was the final line of my training diary entry (force of habit to keep filling it in) about it:

"Overall it was an ok session with me not climbing as badly as i feared, also it didn't feel like wasted time/money, at the current time this feels like a small win."

Without Fiends blog entry/post i'm not sure i would have made the effort of driving to the wall and commiting to a session, so whilst your post was understandably not meant as motivational it has been for me.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 17, 2023, 12:59:28 pm
Good effort. Every bit adds up!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: mrjonathanr on July 17, 2023, 02:46:02 pm
It certainly does! You might add that regular exercise is necessary to prevent the de-conditioning that invariably seems to follow getting keen after a break. So ticking over is good -maybe essential- medicine for your tendons.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: slab_happy on July 17, 2023, 04:50:15 pm
Yeah, even if "all" you're doing is keeping things ticking over, getting out of the house, getting some movement in (which is good for your mental health too) -- sometimes that's a lot!
Title: fiendblogLast Of A Dying Breed
Post by: comPiler on July 23, 2023, 01:00:12 pm
Last Of A Dying Breed


I realise now, decades too late, I've gone about it all the wrong way around... Fat arse over useless man tit (okay they're pecs, but pecs don't get you ticking big numbers unless the rest of the body is leanly aligned towards climbing). Cart before donkey, tail wagging daschund etc etc. 

I guess things started normally: Little climbing wall at school, a few trips out with a school club and a friend, learn to lead with him then Plas Y Brenin, more climbing at uni, the standard trips and places, cranking away at an early bouldering wall because it's fun. Oh and the obligatory 4 year break due to a breakdown, mental health collapse, complete isolation, that's a normal part of the path too, right?? 

Move to Sheffield, restart life, restart climbing. Grit. The Edge. Lime in summer. Wales. The Foundry. Bouldering mats. The Lakes. The Works. Convincing people it's worth driving to The Roaches. Etc etc. So far, so normal, despite being friends with Pylon King.

But the rot starts to creep in.... The Llyn, Carn Gowla, Gairloch, Galloway, North York Moors, South Stack. Ledge shuffling. Exploration. Adventure. Proper trad. Esoterica. Hidden trad gems. New crags all the time. 

Can you spot it yet??

  • Was I at the Cornice? (no) Two Tier? (no) Malham? (yes - did Wombat and Crossbones and Midnight Cowboy), Kilnsey? (yes - did Dodger Direct) Gordale? (no) LPT? (no).
  • Was I pushing redpointing to get stronger and fitter - no.
  • Was I training on proper boards instead of fun circuits - no.
  • Was I mixing in hard long term boulder projects rather than just exploring venues - no.
  • Was I using a fingerboard - no.
  • Was I having any structure - no.
  • (Was I aware that I had a "ticking bomb" of a non-existent IVC vein in my chest and I'd be struck down with DVTs and unavoidably gain over 10kg and then have a body with fairly mature muscles and connective tissues that would suddenly have to cope with that - no).

So that's where I got it the wrong way around: From a fairly neutral start to a climbing career, I took the Left Hand Path of proper ledge shuffling, where the ledges are very ledgey and the shuffling is very shuffley and the best form of strength is weakness. A path of personal inspiration and genuine pleasure, a path that is absolutely "true to self"... 


But a path that leads inexorably to a dead end. One day, I wake up and realise that I've done most of the ledge shuffles I've wanted to do, and those that are left are bloody hard for me and I need to be fitter and stronger. And I've been wasting my time avoiding getting fitter and stronger by farting around having fun and enjoying exploration. Now I'm getting older, heavier, weaker, less fit and more injured - and I'm too late. I'm too old, too heavy, too weak, too unfit and too injured to get enough back. 

Meanwhile around me, to add insult to whatever injury is inhibiting me this particular week, I am part of a dying breed of ledge shufflers. Not the last (as people will immediately jump to correct me, before hopefully realising that I'm entirely correct and proper ledge shuffling is now vastly overshadowed by indoor blob-jumping and instagram green-ticking), but one of them. I've plied my trade with good honest traditional weakness, and now I'm getting weaker, surrounded by a climbing scene that is getting stronger, as the focus on athletic performance grows exponentially. Of course, comparing oneself to others is almost as naff as grade chasing, but the general feeling is hard to avoid and  pretty galling - as is my own personal mistake in not taking the opportunities to focus on performance when I was still able to.


So, kids, the motto is: Don't learn your craft. Don't get experience on rock. Don't focus on technique and skill. Don't do laps of  Stanage highball slabs. You can pick all that crap up when you're old, injured, decrepit, out of training action. Be a Goal Climber, not a Soul Climber - the soul doesn't age and rot until long after the body does. Get on the wall, the board, the campus rungs, the beastmaker. Get strong now, put the effort in now, focus on those gainz now that will last you a long time, before it's too late, before the body can't cope with it any more.

God knows what I'm going to do about it. I keep trying. The body keeps breaking. The mind too. I do see older people who do quite well in maintaining (not necessarily gaining) physical prowess. They inevitably have a proper history in training (or past performance), or enough venous return to keep lean enough for climbing, or enough self-discipline to do the most boring regimes, or all three. So far my best alternative seems to be bury my head in the sand and keep dreaming of a day where something magically changes and I miraculously gain some physical prowess to take back into the remaining ledge shuffles and esoteric explorations. Oh, and, not giving up yet. I'm not even sure why, against all sense and reason, but still not giving up yet.


Source: Last Of A Dying Breed (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: slab_happy on July 23, 2023, 04:56:24 pm
I keep trying. The body keeps breaking. The mind too.

Have a mournful fistbump of solidarity. I HEAR YOU.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Duncan campbell on July 23, 2023, 06:20:53 pm
Big love fiend, keep on keeping on!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kingholmesy on July 23, 2023, 07:11:12 pm
On the other hand think of some of the adventures you’ve had. I’m pretty jealous of some of the routes you’ve done. Not that many ledges on ledge shuffles like Demolition or Andromeda Strain either …
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Hoseyb on July 23, 2023, 07:21:28 pm
(https://waterfordcamino.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Calvin-and-Hobbes-adventure.jpg)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Hoseyb on July 23, 2023, 07:22:24 pm
And none of us have got there yet either
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Liamhutch89 on July 23, 2023, 07:42:24 pm
Magical changes and miraculous gains? Sounds like you want steroids1


1: while I was initially writing this as a light hearted joke, it occurred to me that on the basis you've been suffering chronic injuries and mental health issues, perhaps consideration of testosterone/hormone levels and potential TRT if needed is not such a terrible idea? Note: as I am not a doctor, I have absolutely no idea what i'm talking about. Stay well. 
Title: Re: fiendblogLast Of A Dying Breed
Post by: Potash on July 24, 2023, 08:40:48 am
Gordale? (no)


I take it you have not done Darkness then? That's a significant hole in an esoteric ledge shufflers CV.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Dingdong on July 24, 2023, 08:59:22 am
Magical changes and miraculous gains? Sounds like you want steroids1


1: while I was initially writing this as a light hearted joke, it occurred to me that on the basis you've been suffering chronic injuries and mental health issues, perhaps consideration of testosterone/hormone levels and potential TRT if needed is not such a terrible idea? Note: as I am not a doctor, I have absolutely no idea what i'm talking about. Stay well. 

Doctors should be able to test levels and prescribe if necessary, I would say not a terrible idea once TRT levels drop as you get older
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: slab_happy on July 24, 2023, 08:59:59 am
1: while I was initially writing this as a light hearted joke, it occurred to me that on the basis you've been suffering chronic injuries and mental health issues, perhaps consideration of testosterone/hormone levels and potential TRT if needed is not such a terrible idea? Note: as I am not a doctor, I have absolutely no idea what i'm talking about. Stay well. 

I am also not a doctor, but if you're having an especially bad patch without an obvious cause, it's not a terrible idea to see if your GP might be willing to run a bunch of blood tests, just on the off-chance -- vitamin B and D levels are some other things worth looking at, for example. Test anything they'll let you test!

And I speak as someone with an amazing gift for producing negative test results, so, you know, 99% of the time it'll say "everything's fine, your brain's just fucked because your brain is fucked."

But the 1% is invaluable.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Wellsy on July 24, 2023, 09:05:39 am
Magical changes and miraculous gains? Sounds like you want steroids1


1: while I was initially writing this as a light hearted joke, it occurred to me that on the basis you've been suffering chronic injuries and mental health issues, perhaps consideration of testosterone/hormone levels and potential TRT if needed is not such a terrible idea? Note: as I am not a doctor, I have absolutely no idea what i'm talking about. Stay well. 

All jokes aside Fiend its time to get on the Tren
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: GazM on July 24, 2023, 09:35:40 am
While its probably not what you want to hear when thinkng about the future, I'll echo the sentiments of Kingholmesy and HoseyB. You should be proud of what you have achieved. I'm well jealous of all the 'proper' climbing you've done.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 24, 2023, 07:13:31 pm
I know, what a moany cunt!!

Kingholmsey - there is a really good belay ledge on Andromeda Strain. It's the one you'd break your legs from if you fell off the crux slab, before realising there's no chance of rescue.

(And yeah, for you and GazM, thanks. I know I've done some great stuff in the past, but I'm a bit wary of past glories though. And the general point - not just for me - is I'd still stand a chance of doing that sort of stuff now if I'd been doing the proper stuff of being miserable, training hard on a wooden board or hanging off a redpoint rope earlier in life).

Potash - good point, I shall have to do that. And that big E2 corner at Kilsney.

Liamhutch - I like your disclaimer :). I will take hormones into consideration. I am possibly going through the manopause.

Slab_happy - already done, tested for those plus iron, thyroid and inflammation. Result: "everything's fine, you're just a disintegrating punter because you're a disintegrating punter".
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: slab_happy on July 24, 2023, 08:31:41 pm
Slab_happy - already done, tested for those plus iron, thyroid and inflammation. Result: "everything's fine, you're just a disintegrating punter because you're a disintegrating punter".

Oh well, worth a shot. Have another fistbump of useless negative test results solidarity!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: webbo on July 24, 2023, 08:52:32 pm
Thank fuck you’ve got youth on your side Matt. Just wait till you start getting old. :great:
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: mrjonathanr on July 24, 2023, 08:56:51 pm
Thank fuck you’ve got youth on your side Matt. Just wait till you start getting old. :great:

I don’t always agree with webbo’s posts but that’s a corker.

You’ve got a lot more time on your side than you think, Matt.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: kingholmesy on July 24, 2023, 11:48:51 pm

Kingholmsey - there is a really good belay ledge on Andromeda Strain. It's the one you'd break your legs from if you fell off the crux slab, before realising there's no chance of rescue.


 :clap2: well put! Strangely I still want to do this route.  Mind you, I keep putting it off …


I know I've done some great stuff in the past, but I'm a bit wary of past glories though. And the general point - not just for me - is I'd still stand a chance of doing that sort of stuff now if I'd been doing the proper stuff of being miserable, training hard on a wooden board or hanging off a redpoint rope earlier in life).


Yeah I get what you’re saying, and I realise that looking backwards at cool stuff you’ve done in the past doesn’t really help when you’re feeling shit about the prospect of doing any cool stuff in the future. I think though a lot of people end up being so focused on hanging off bits of wood getting strong that it becomes the goal and they never end up going on those adventures at all. Surely there’s still a few adventures to be had?


Potash - good point, I shall have to do that. And that big E2 corner at Kilsney.


The Diedre at Kilnsey is ace.  Proper good trad route, with the added bonus of a crag full of sports climbers looking at you like you’re a pervert for turning up with a rack.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 25, 2023, 09:25:11 am
Thank fuck you’ve got youth on your side Matt. Just wait till you start getting old. :great:
Thank for the moral support webbo  :icon_321:

At least I can look forward to being even more of a miserable git AS WELL as everything getting worse.


Kingholmsey: AS is bloody amazing. 2 star E3 into 3 star E4 in a serious overall situation. The climbing is genuinely great as is the overall situation - finishing up the top of Mercury with 50m of rope drag  :)

I take what you mean about the myopic training droids never actually putting anything into practise, but at least theyr getting strong doing it. As for further adventures, there's some, but it's always good to have a reasonable buffer of strength/fitness - which I've never had, and now it's even smaller! Is board training good for Llyn choss?? Of course it is. No-one has been left hanging around on the two small vaguely-attached holds in a sea of crumbling rubbish thinking "I wish I was a lot weaker here so I couldn't hang around for ages nor crank my way through this bit comfortably".

P.S. I got laughed at by Shark for taking my rack down to LPT, before finding out that some cunt had retro-bolted the good trad routes I'd wanted to do  :wall:

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: webbo on July 25, 2023, 09:36:06 am
Thank fuck you’ve got youth on your side Matt. Just wait till you start getting old. :great:
Thank for the moral support webbo  :icon_321:

At least I can look forward to being even more of a miserable git AS WELL as everything getting worse.


I thought you might appreciate that rather than me offering to meet up to give you a hug.
My time these days  is spent talking to mates about what body parts they have just had repaired and what is the next thing that will need fixing. That and groaning and sighing every time I move.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: andy moles on July 25, 2023, 10:03:33 am
Is board training good for Llyn choss?? Of course it is. No-one has been left hanging around on the two small vaguely-attached holds in a sea of crumbling rubbish thinking "I wish I was a lot weaker here so I couldn't hang around for ages nor crank my way through this bit comfortably".

As long as you can maintain the brain skills needed to climb choss when loads of your time is spent on a board... I don't climb choss but I find even 'normal' UK trad (i.e. the sort that involves a bit of boldness and fiddling) requires doing quite a bit of it to be any good at it. Maybe you're just a gifted chosswomble?

Sorry to hear you're having a hard time Fiend. Not being able to identify the exact nature of an issue is rubbish.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: T_B on July 25, 2023, 01:26:29 pm
Hmm good discussion to what extent board skills can make up for trad shuffle deficiency? I’ve always relied on a bit of bouldering power to make up for a lack of shuffle technique, but I do reckon it’s a case of if you have it you default to it. Head still trumps power and no amount of power will make up for a poor head. You can get a long way with head/technique/stamina, so if the body’s falling apart I wouldn’t assume that being stronger would be the answer. Even Ned reckons fingers and flexibility are the two main things to work on and he’s talking about bouldering. Well one of those doesn’t tend to break you.

Having had a break from trad I think it’s useful to acknowledge that bringing all those skills/experience together to push yourself on a hard (for you) trad lead is pretty incredible. There is so much more to it than sport climbing and the risks involved should not be brushed over. So give yourself a pat on the back even if you’re dropping a few grades just applying your craft, something which cannot be learnt quickly. A lot of climbers step away from on-sight trad because it’s hard and scary!
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: petejh on July 25, 2023, 08:26:05 pm
You haven't run out of stuff to do Matt you need to keep going west - you have the whole of Ireland to adventure chossaneering around in, it's just like England/Wales/Scotland. Don't have to do mainstream stuff you can be as esoteric as you like - Luggala not Glendalough, Donegal inland granite not Fairhead, Kerry seacliffs not the Burren, Fermanagh limestone trad, Antrim coastal conglomerate weirdness etc. etc.  There's a lifetime of adventures to do out there. Flog car, get cheap van, go tradding for a week or two at a time to make the ferry trip worth it, simple. Until you die aged 100 (still a moaning cunt), having still not got anywhere close to doing it all at your grade but having had a life of good adventures and not having had to touch a board.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 26, 2023, 10:05:47 am
I thought you might appreciate that rather than me offering to meet up to give you a hug.
Definitely! Give that moany twat what he deserves.

As long as you can maintain the brain skills needed to climb choss when loads of your time is spent on a board...
Of course yes. Strength / fitness in itself is definitely nowhere near sufficient in challenging trad. But I think the trad skills tend to come with age (and wisdom) rather than fade away with age.

Quote
I don't climb choss but I find even 'normal' UK trad (i.e. the sort that involves a bit of boldness and fiddling) requires doing quite a bit of it to be any good at it. Maybe you're just a gifted chosswomble?
Yeah the "normal" trad with the aspects you mentioned is really what I mean. According to Will Hunt I can't be a gifted chosswomble because I sometimes climb dynamically instead of wasting many seconds of energy doing delicate balletic footwork. But yeah I guess chosswombling suits my weakness - but more importantly my passion for it.

I think I had reasonable chosswombling skills within a decade of climbing - I did Blue Peter, Hysteresis, Cannibal, Godzilla, The Mermaid Who Shed Her Glove (for example) in 2006/7. Retrospectively it would have been more beneficial to mix in a lot more training and get straight down the Tor then (actually, come to think of it, I *did* get straight down the Tor in 2009, did Another Choadside Attraction, and a fortnight later was in hospital with DVTs), and mix in a lot more trying hard physically and training for the future. Then by now I'd have a couple of sport grades in hand AND still have plenty of non-Irish chosswombling to do (and might need to brush up on my wombling skills but they're a lot easier to get back, having had a history of it).


Hmm good discussion to what extent board skills can make up for trad shuffle deficiency? I’ve always relied on a bit of bouldering power to make up for a lack of shuffle technique, but I do reckon it’s a case of if you have it you default to it. Head still trumps power and no amount of power will make up for a poor head. You can get a long way with head/technique/stamina, so if the body’s falling apart I wouldn’t assume that being stronger would be the answer. Even Ned reckons fingers and flexibility are the two main things to work on and he’s talking about bouldering. Well one of those doesn’t tend to break you.
Cheers T_B, I do think the general point is perhaps of interest, hence my blog post exhortations to "Be Less Johnny Brown, Be More Wellsy"  ;) Obviously I might be hamming this up a bit (and hamming up my general moaning about, as people point out, I've had a lot of pleasure chosswombling) but I do think there is something to be said for future-proofing oneself physically....
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: James Malloch on July 26, 2023, 11:51:14 am

 but I do think there is something to be said for future-proofing oneself physically....


A physio I saw said about this as a general thing. So many of his elderly patients are there due to some weakness or muscle deterioration.

It’s not your XYZ causing the problem, it’s that as you got older you stopped walking as fast, or stopped walking up hills and therefore your glutes (or whatever) got into a downward spiral and are now causing problems elsewhere.

So future-proofing sounds sensible, but also keeping things going as your get older and things get harder.

Edit - obviously he is talking about inactive people but the same must apply to climbing i guess.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Wellsy on July 26, 2023, 12:36:15 pm
If be more like Wellsy you mean

- Start climbing and indeed basically all physical activity at the age of 30
- Desperately train to try and build some athletic strength before it's too late
- Be afraid of heights and be held back in your climbing for it more than probably anything else
- manage at your best to scrape your way up a score of 7As and half a dozen 7A+s during the same time that Fiend, while injured and miserable, is getting more done
- Get a knee injury that seemingly will never fully be fixed, and feel like you'll never reach your lofty goals due to that and all the above

Well I think it's not a great idea

However you should definitely go on the board more ;)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: duncan on July 27, 2023, 10:46:46 am
Fiend, you've encouraged some good discussion. More importantly, you've have made me revisit my mis-spent 1990s again which I always enjoy (the rest of you can stop reading now). Training was mucking around at Mile End, climbing was weekends in N Cornwall, Pembroke and Gogarth. I rarely sport climbed and, when I did, it was strictly ‘trad. climbing on bolts’. I’m not sure if this was due to taste, aptitude, or some weird self-imposed morality. Sound familiar?

Like you, I sometimes think I should have spent more time trying hard on sport routes and training. I might have managed 7b+ or 7c if I’d embraced the siege. As you suggest, this might have set me up for climbing later in life or harder trad. routes at the time. On reflection now, I’m still happy to have chosen The Long Run over, hypothetically, New Dawn. I suppose the imponderable is whether choosing New Dawn would have enabled me to get up steeper E5s. It’s more likely I would have just knackered my shoulders/elbows and this is what happened when I tried to train more systematically at the end of the 90s.

30 years later, 7c is highly unlikely but 7b+ might still be on the cards. However, no mental or physical training, cheating, new shoes,  or moving to Roy Bridge will get me anywhere near anything like The Purr-Spire ever again. My sport fitness has held up much better than my trad. boldness! The being bold bit of trad. skills fades with age for nearly everyone who isn't Nick Dixon. Be happy with the harder trad. onsighting you've done. As T_B says, it’s difficult to get all your ducks in a row for this and this seems to get harder as we get older.

I think I did the right thing for me at the time and I hope you will feel the same later in life.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 27, 2023, 11:04:28 am
Good empathic reply duncan, oh fellow shuffly one.

Quote
On reflection now, I’m still happy to have chosen The Long Run over, hypothetically, New Dawn. I suppose the imponderable is whether choosing New Dawn would have enabled me to get up steeper E5s.
The Long Run is one of the very top climbing experiences of my life. If I'd not bothered with that and dicked around sieging New Dawn, then I'd still have more than enough of a buffer to do The Long Run now. But having wasted time focusing on amazing experiences like The Long Run, I doubt I'll ever be able to get up New Dawn (that's one of the hard-ish things at Malham, right??) AND I don't have enough of a buffer to keep doing TLR-type shuffles.

(The above might be overexaggerating things a bit of course...)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Potash on July 27, 2023, 12:44:21 pm
I think we met once on the Old Man of Hoy. You were heading up South Face if I recall which I'm sure provided excellent ledge shuffling and vomit showers.

Anyway... I had very similar thoughts to you regarding training and ledge shuffling a few years ago. This was provoked by Michaela Tracy coming back from a few weekends worth of dabbling at trad climbing having basically ticked my lifetime best trad routes list.

Maybe if I'd not spent 100% of my time choss bothering I'd have managed to climb more awesome routes.

But if I'd trained my aspirations would have just got bigger, leaving me in a net neutral position.

Sport climbing is best left until ones dotage as demonstrated by the likes of Steve Haston et al. as boldness seems to drop off faster than ability. I think it far more likely that I climber harder sport than at my previous peak in the next few years than harder trad. Most of my current trad focuses upon routes "suitable for a married man with a large rack of wires".
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 27, 2023, 01:13:41 pm
I think we met once on the Old Man of Hoy. You were heading up South Face if I recall which I'm sure provided excellent ledge shuffling and vomit showers.
Not sure what you mean...
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a6ysQS3ipsI/Uh5pA4wt0BI/AAAAAAAAA-A/wL5ROJ0Yrrs/s1600/hoy6.jpg)
Since reeve is reeve and you're not reeve, then you must be the other chap  :wave: Which means, if my guesstimating is right, that Double D the most unsung F7a+ gem in the Peak is yours, cheers  :icon_beerchug:

Yes South Face route was pleasingly dire  ;D I did have to wait for a gull chick to barf itself inside out before tentatively scuttling past it.

Good post. One needs to maintain the physicality for harder sport though.


Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Duncan campbell on July 27, 2023, 05:09:44 pm
It’s an interesting dilemma all this, isn’t it, Fiend??

You wish you hadn’t done so much of the stuff you love doing when you were more physically able to do the stuff you don’t love as much, so that you could have the hypothetical situation where you could do a lot of the stuff you have done, but now and *maybe* some other bits.

I think Potash hit a very pertinent point;

But if I'd trained my aspirations would have just got bigger, leaving me in a net neutral position.


There is always more things to do.

Who’s to say if you’d done more redpointing and board climbing you’d have lost your taste for trad (especially loose trad) as there is nothing like being used to pulling hard on hard redpoints or boards that destroys the taste for looseness is there!?

Or maybe you’d still be struggling with injury but lamenting all that extra strength and power you had, with no head for choss, wishing you had done the long run, black magic, etc.

You lived that period of your life true to yourself and your passion. All this rumination is based on “what ifs” that may or may not be true.

I don’t envy your position, and i do feel for you.

In fact I spend much of my time pondering whether I should try and get my trad goals done sooner or my sport goals, which will fade first? Body or mind? - no one knows and you could find examples of either probably.

I don’t really know much about you, but you do seem to have a wide range of interests… is this the time to try something you have always thought “I’d love to do x/y/z” but never had time because you were wombling up choss?

I empathise with how easy it can be to spend too much time looking back at the past and wishing for something different or forward to the future hoping for something. But it’s never helped me much.


The Long Run is one of the very top climbing experiences of my life. If I'd not bothered with that and dicked around sieging New Dawn, then I'd still have more than enough of a buffer to do The Long Run now. But having wasted time focusing on amazing experiences like The Long Run, I doubt I'll ever be able to get up New Dawn (that's one of the hard-ish things at Malham, right??) AND I don't have enough of a buffer to keep doing TLR-type shuffles.


You didn’t waste time on an amazing experience!! You can’t say for sure you’d be doing TLR now, and there isn’t much point thinking about that as it’s done.

What can be done in the now?
Is there any light at the end of the injury tunnel?

Hope you find some light at the end of this tunnel.  :kiss2:

Edit: sorry if this came across as condescending- not my intention… just recognise some similar thought patterns to myself at my worse times
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 27, 2023, 08:22:14 pm
Quote
Be Less Johnny Brown, Be More Wellsy

No offence Wellsy, but this sounds like a shit idea. Johnny Brown was never me. He was an imaginary ideal alter ego I would attempt to summon when in extremis, to possess me with the talent of Dawes and the effortless karate-trained cool of Ian Brown (remember this is the nineties, time is cruel etc), and allow me to swagger through the crux to victory.

When it worked it was great, and proved that wishful thinking and believing in your (alter ego possessed) self could be a valid alternative to fitness or strength, which in my experience tend to inflate your expectations while mainly providing the tools for bad sequences and grindingly slow climbing.
 
It wasn’t infallible though, all too often my pre-crux ritual would result in the disappointing appearance of a man I came to know as Ian Dawes. He was a cunt, frankly, his only talent being embarrassing post-failure paddies. So tread with caution.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Wellsy on July 27, 2023, 09:21:56 pm
No offence taken ;)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: El Mocho on July 27, 2023, 09:22:18 pm
Quote
Be Less Johnny Brown, Be More Wellsy

No offence Wellsy, but this sounds like a shit idea. Johnny Brown was never me. He was an imaginary ideal alter ego I would attempt to summon when in extremis, to possess me with the talent of Dawes and the effortless karate-trained cool of Ian Brown (remember this is the nineties, time is cruel etc), and allow me to swagger through the crux to victory.

When it worked it was great, and proved that wishful thinking and believing in your (alter ego possessed) self could be a valid alternative to fitness or strength, which in my experience tend to inflate your expectations while mainly providing the tools for bad sequences and grindingly slow climbing.
 
It wasn’t infallible though, all too often my pre-crux ritual would result in the disappointing appearance of a man I came to know as Ian Dawes. He was a cunt, frankly, his only talent being embarrassing post-failure paddies. So tread with caution.

Brilliant. I remember both JB and ID well. Luckily for you there were more appearances from JB during that time. ID basically came out whenever the rock turned past vertical, which made the times JB was on form even more impressive as we all kinda knew what was happening... I've spent the last 25 years trying to get some of the JB magic to rub off on me.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on July 28, 2023, 11:01:08 am
Edit: sorry if this came across as condescending- not my intention… just recognise some similar thought patterns to myself at my worse times
Not at all, it's a good post, it's more interesting here about other people's experiences and paths and overall thoughts on the topic than it is just head-patting sympathy. As I was saying to someone last night, my blog post was 3 pronged: A bit of genuine regret about not taking a more future-proofing path, a bit of hamming it up for the audience in how I've expressed that, and a bit of generalised speculation and the paths taken for different breeds of climbers.

I've spent the last 25 years trying to get some of the JB magic to rub off on me.
Well given you're now at least partly specialising in 8B roofs on Anglesey in your post-shuffling dotage(?), I'm not sure you're trying hard enough  :P

I might try to Be More Ian Dawes anyway. If that's possible.

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: mrjonathanr on July 28, 2023, 03:36:28 pm
Ron Redhead might suit you better.
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: andy moles on July 28, 2023, 04:57:03 pm
an imaginary ideal alter ego I would attempt to summon when in extremis, to possess me with the talent of Dawes and the effortless karate-trained cool of Ian Brown

This sounds way more appealing than structured training, do you run masterclasses?
Title: fiendblogBest New Music 2023
Post by: comPiler on December 30, 2023, 07:00:03 pm
Best New Music 2023


Mixes:

Presha - HOR
Somewhat inevitably Samurai Records and PRSPCT Recordings have been the sources of the year's best music and I don't see this changing any time soon. Hard to pick a particular favourite from Samurai but this superbly varied, deep, creative and uncompromising mix from the boss man Presha sums it all up - and hints at more excellent releases to come. 
To compliment that, favourite releases from Samurai this year, I can't pick a track to show off but both EPs are excellent in their own right:
https://presha.bandcamp.com/album/sacrifice
https://rdgs.bandcamp.com/album/samurai-outliers-004

Tracks and EPs...

Dom & Crystl - Stimulant
(From https://domandroland.bandcamp.com/album/dom-crystl )
Dom has been at the top of his game for nearly 3 decades with no sign of wavering, and this is as good as it gets. From FADNB thread: "a lovely blend of soaring melodies and tones like the cry of avian aliens, militant drums of a victorious army, and bass pulses direct from the earth's core"

Dom & Roland - Clash Of The Titans
(From the Against A Dark Background album - https://domandroland.bandcamp.com/album/against-a-dark-background-lp )
Roland too has been at the top of his game and this is one for the podium of classics. Epic hardly does it justice but it's a start - the soundtrack to your gnarliest board session, hardest redpoint, or walking onto stage at the Olympics. This track turns men into titans, mortals into heroes, and will make a champion out of you too.

Kilbourne - Sunshine Terror
(From the Milkshake EP https://prspctrecordings.bandcamp.com/album/milkshake )
The Empress of Electronic Music returns for the 4th year in a row having a best of the year track (previous ones being Pillsurfer, Pain Becomes Pleasure, and Cathedrals). Definitely both euphoric and energetic, but other than that it's a classic yin-yang of good and evil, light and dark, hard and soft, sunshine and terror.

The Bug - Brutalized
(From the Machines EP series https://thebugmusic.bandcamp.com/music )
Apocalyptically good industrial doom dub from the master. Who know the soundtrack to the Earth melting under the weight of human civilisation would be so damn groovy??

Neurocore - Dawn Of The Rising Spirits
(From the Existences album https://prspctrecordings.bandcamp.com/album/existences )
Is this uncategorisably excellent track the ultimate electronic dance music track?? Are there any sets it wouldn't fit into perfectly as peak time euphoria?? There's only one way to find out, and that's a full listen at full volume. Once you've done that, check out the album for all your cinematic-euphoric-techno-ambient-soundtrack-trance-melodic-hardcore-electro-rave needs.

Offish & Attempt - The Faceless
(From https://armoryrecordings.bandcamp.com/album/armory-008 )
 
A fantastic future-looking track on Homemade Weapon's "Armoury" imprint so you know it's going to be good.  Smoothly rolling drums, pulsing caresses of downright erotic bass, and taut analogue bleeps combined in a perfect cyberfunk blend.

Homemade Weapons & Red Army - Spellbound (Homemade Weapons remix)
(From https://redarmy.bandcamp.com/album/armory-003 )
An unusually direct track from the deadly Homemade Weapons, but no less quality than his more creative and quirky dubbed out steppers. Absolutely fierce, absolutely groovy, headbanging and bootyshaking.

Rediscovery of the year:

Pascal - Johnny - )E|3( remix
A Bad Company track / remixed I missed for 20 years?? I've been making up for that with repeated plays in the last fortnight. As good as anything they've done with that classic BC energy - YA BADBWOY


Source: Best New Music 2023 (http://)
Title: fiendblogThe Wedge Keeps Thickening...
Post by: comPiler on March 22, 2024, 01:00:48 pm
The Wedge Keeps Thickening...


...thickening like a fat greasy chode, which pretty much sums up the state of the climbing scene.

Yes. Ken was right after all. Bellowing like Canute at the ceaseless tide of crap new bolts surging towards his sandcastle, but he had a point. All the wedge-deniers - you're wrong. It is happening, it is here, the bolts are here. The wedge has thickened from additional sport climbs to re-equipping of sport climbs to sporadic retro-bolting of mostly fixed gear routes to straight out full on retro-bolting of good reasonably protected trad routes. 

I do fucking loads of sport climbing throughout the UK both as training for trad and for an inherently strong pleasure in it's own right. I thoroughly appreciate proper sport crags, proper re-equipping of shoddy old sport routes that are mostly run-outs on caving bolts and bits of coathanger, and sometimes obvious and justifiable retro-bolting of neglected trad routes that were full of fixed gear, never really offered a satisfactory trad experience (and indeed were closer to sport experiences when first put up before the fixed gear rotted).

I am profoundly less convinced when this bolting fervour sweeps onto good and protectable trad routes. And the more I explore around the lime, the more I see this happening all over... E.g.

Attermire
Almost completely retrobolted away from the main crag, including classic HVS/E1s that if not fully retroed have been compromised by bolts. 

High Stony Bank
Some good new sport additions, but stuff like Oedipus, which was on my list after seeing a photo, has been lost to bolts despite following an attractive flake crack system.

Lower Pen Trwyn
I took my rack down to do Jacuzzi Jive and Twisting By The Pool that I've always wanted to do (I've got them earmarked in North Wales Rock from a decade ago).... And they've been retroed too. As it happened I pretty much did Twisting By The Pool on trad, but caved in and clipped one bolt to back up the wire on the headwall crux, I'm dropping one E-grade off for that. Aside from that one move it is perfectly well protected with wires and a perfect waste having it as another F6b+ on a crag that really doesn't need that many of them.

Marine Drive
Whilst Beaverbrook might arguably be a sensible retrobolting proposition compared to it's previous mono-peg incarnation (somewhat out of character with the generally reasonably protected routes around there), Pure Mania further around is definitely NOT. I lead this a couple of years ago, and in character for the crag it was a great wee trad experience, a bit run-out, a bit thoughtful, a bit technical. Just a proper good trad route. Now it's a line of fucking bolts. 

The latter examples particularly baffling / infuriating. Pen Trwyn has, in my experience, always been a bastion of balance, a showcase of trad and sport sitting side by side, with neither impinging on the other, where you can have great experiences of both genres right next to each other, (and where the quality of the rock and climbing transcends Pete's miserly understarring ;)). It should have stayed as that great example, rather than another example of insidious wedge-thickening. 

What next?? Melkor has a thread in and most nearby routes are partly bolted - should that be another F6b-ish thing?? No. Fuck that, it's a lovely trad climb, I did it last week as a warm-down in the evening sun and wouldn't have wanted a single bolt other than the lower-off. It won't happen, huh?? It already IS fucking happening...

I always suggest the first and most important course of action should be:

1. Thoroughly clean the route up including removing vegetation and loose rock, scrubbing and chalking the holds (yes, some effort, but less, and much cheaper, than retro-bolting).

2. Replace essential fixed gear with like-for-like if possible. Install lower-offs if the finishing terrain is too appalling (as it sometimes gets).

3. Publicise the route(s) all over. Get some nice photos of people leading them in a pristine state. Shout it from the social media roof-tops. Write an article for UKWebanpeopleunjustifiably.com, update the logbooks.

4. In short, give the trad routes, and trad climbers, a fighting chance BEFORE reaching for the drill.

In the meantime I'm either going to have to get on any limestone trad routes pretty damn quickly. Or buy a re-chargeable angle grinder. Suggestions on a postcard...

P.S. Vaguely on topic, here's a disgruntled miserable old sport-hating trad dinosaur in action:

The Bloods  - I've wanted to do this for a while since the rather evocative photo of Redhead on it in ...And One For The Crow (my 3rd tick in the book after Poetry Pink and Young And Easy... , I probably won't get many more!!). In the accompanying essay / demented rambling, he says it was first done with two bolts, then ended up with 7 bolts and a lower off. It's actually only 5 bolts and a lower off and is still a bit run out for a sport route at the start, middle, and finish. Should this have been left as a sparsely bolted semi-trad route?? I don't know - would it have provided a good, intricate, nut-slotting, committing trad experience?? It didn't look like it, but if someone had chosen to take a strong stand for it, that would be fair enough.

Julio Juventus - partly done because a friend was on the first half (a very logical pitch in it's own right) and partly done to avoid failing to flash Axle Attack or Mayfair! I somehow scraped through this one despite botching the my feet on the first crux and simply not having enough feet on the second crux, thus having to skip an unfeasible clip, and I got away with it and was pretty chuffed with my commitment. No idea about a previous trad / semi-trad status of this one. 



Source: The Wedge Keeps Thickening... (http://)
Title: fiendblogYou Should Have Seen The Looseness Of The One That Got Away...
Post by: comPiler on March 23, 2024, 01:01:52 am
You Should Have Seen The Looseness Of The One That Got Away...


Recently I've had some setbacks with my amateur chossaneering. I seem to have come up with an abrupt wall where the gentle terrain of "Big G grading routes quite softly in his later climbing years" suddenly rears up into daunting scenarios of "Big G grading routes in direct comparison to his multiple Gogarth E7 6b roof crack heyday", and unlike the rock in reality, this particular wall doesn't seem soft or wobbly enough to pull a few bits off and sneak around it. Thus I'm running out of routes I can pretend my way up by climbing very slowly and gently and ignoring the dubious structural integrity, and starting to be faced with things that are actually hard. And then there are other issues with off-piste routes that don't get nearly the repeats they deserve:


The latest shambles looked a bit like this:

Dichotomous, The Range - superb bit of rock in a superb situation. The first two superfluous pegs I pulled out by hand. The essential gear protecting the crux along an expanding undercling finger flake with lichenous smearing consisted of the one remaining bendy peg with rust flaking off it and a missing RURP. The long fall from here would leave on having to be lowered into the sea. I bailed.

The Blue Horse, Porth Dafrach - Warming up on Caff's minor sandbag DAME was fun. Feeling the greasy flakiness at the start of The Blue Horse and trying to envisage the brutal laybacking required for upwards/outwards progress along with protecting the whole sheningan was less fun. I bailed.

Angel Of The West, The Range - On paper this is a mere half a grade harder than Surreal Estate that had been a perfectly charming womble the previous day. In reality it must be a good 3 grades harder. I have looked at AOTW from many angles on 4 visits, and have been doing specific training for it on The Depot roof and The Boardroom DWS roof, and it still looks utterly and incomprehensibly outrageous. I bailed (but I'm still thinking about the fucking thing).

Three Day Event, Porthllechog - more like Three Metre Event as that's about how high I got up it. Somewhat more conventional in angle and situation than the other routes but, well, my guts had been bad that morning (for absolutely no fucking reason), the refreshing breeze all day had dropped in time for my attempt, there seemed to be plant life covering crucial holds, I'm a wimp, etc etc. I bailed.


---


Anyway, all of this got me thinking, thinking about some proper choss, proper potentially wonderful routes, and the Top Three That Got Away, which goes a bit like this....

Gold, North Pembroke
Wow. Okay. This one. Honestly, if I'd got up this (a one star route at a grade I've done dozens of), it could have been the route of my life. Rainbow Zawn looks quite impressive from the side....but from below, it's unbelievable. It was genuinely hard to take in how impressive and intimidating it looked - constantly overhanging end-on strata of culm sandstone and shale. I battled for an hour up the first pitch to find that a section through an overhang (shared with an E3 5b!!) was missing and I couldn't work out how to climb it. I left a wire and krab in-situ and this update for UKHitlering (which never made it on afaik)

"An epic climb that is one of the easiest (!) lines up a shocking cliff. Originally graded E4, the first pitch has lost holds including at least one crucial ledge, and it is a very different experience to South Stack / Lleyn / Craig Llong E4s. The end-on shale strata are ungenerous with holds so expect an awesome adventure with hard, strenuous climbing as well as the obligatory loose rock, rope-cutting edges, rusty pegs and sandy cracks."

I still regret not doing it.

Back To The Old Ways, Atlantic Coast
Immortalised on film with me backing off it, tail firmly between stockings. A very cinemogenic King Line chosen for Cheque's Seaside, as a light digestif to accompanying Duncan on Eroica (and the bugger calmly encouraging me onto Black Magic despite my qualms). Alas it wasn't meant to be, the choss quotient was perfectly fine (in it's own shaley way) but the much-harder-than-graded climbing with much-smaller-than-required gear was a bit too much. A pity as it really did look ace.

Kelly's Eye, Lleyn
A recent inspiration and retreat. A great bit of rock in a lovely wee zawn, but this time whilst both the climbing and gear on the first pitch seemed manageable, the choss was in full effect with almost everything feeling crunchy, or wobbly, or indeed both. Yes, I backed off the first 5a pitch, but abbing down (with the lone belay stake reassuringly backed up by the dog stake), the two 5b pitches looked just as hard and terrifying as they did from the slope opposite. I suppose when someone (Littlejohn) who has been E6 new-routing for decades, including the Lleyn, warns that "some of the rock requires a light touch", I should probably be extra wary despite the lowly grade. So the right decision, but still disappointing. 

---

Back to the present day. It feels a bit weird to run out of inspiration at The Range. I do love it there. So gentle and peaceful and beautiful and weird and sketchy on the routes. But there's odds and sods to pop in for, and other coastal gems to explore and the bird bans are off South Stack this weekend... I just need to get some fucking confidence back as it's taken a bit of a beating with these retreats, my digestion being up and down, my sport fitness going to pot (too much amateur chossaneering, sigh), etc etc. Fingers crossed.



Source: You Should Have Seen The Looseness Of The One That Got Away... (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Potash on March 23, 2024, 09:44:26 am
Gold - North Pembroke really was amazing. I've been gently encouraging/sandbagging people onto this ever since I did it in 2009ish.

Genuinely some of the best steep chossaneering I've done.

Don't think we really knew what we were letting ourselves in for on this when we started. Then the sea had come in and we were quite committed.

The upper pitches were excellent including riding an amazing fin of rock at one point. At the top there was no belay so I resorted to sitting in a hole.

Three stars......

Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 23, 2024, 10:37:27 am
Thanks for confirming that and adding a little bit to the regret I already have  ::) Especially in the context of now never being able to get back the fitness / confidence / lightness to try it again (a decline that was starting at the time of posting that blog, before being accelerated by multiple injuries and depression).

Also Compiler please get a grip and stop re-posting blog entries from 2021  ::)



Edit: Am grumpy from lying awake at 5am worrying about being old weak and heavy
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Potash on March 23, 2024, 11:08:29 am
Well apologies for adding to the regret. It definitely required light thoughts.

I hope you have also continued to encourage others towards it!
Title: fiendblogMini-Adventures #3
Post by: comPiler on March 23, 2024, 01:00:14 pm
Mini-Adventures #3

 
Although things ground to a bit of a halt on a recent (pre-heatwave!) trip, there was still some fun to be had. The pictures can do most of the talking:

Looking straight down to a shell glued to a vertical face by the very edge of it's shell!

View out from Porth Dafrach. So many lovely and intriguing inlets headlands and zawns.

Rhoscolyn lighthouse and the Llyn.

Moonrise over Porthllechog

Big skies over The Range all the way to The Llyn.

Dickhead.

An anchor without a dog stake is an anchor without dignity.


Crazy Horse, Porthllechog. A Nick Bullock "decomposing wide crack". Amenable standard but good, thought-provoking fun.


Dichotomous / Dai-Version, The Range. This was actually on the failed attempt on the former, but the latter meets it at exactly this point so I figure it's okay. A great and substantial route that is less mini than some hereabouts.


Dame, Porth Dafrach. A minor Caff sandbag, good adventurous fun in a lovely location. Just look at the rock architecture!


Surreal Estate, The Range. A minor Big G ultra-soft touch, but guess what, yes it was fun too, and in a cool setting too!


So that was that. Since then it got hot, it got showery, I got back on the sport, I got back to the indoor wall, I had an epiphany that I've got physically weak due lack of any actual strength training and pushing redpointing, I had an epiphany that I've got mentally weak after starting re-reading The Rock Warriors Way and a mere 10 pages in realising my mindstate had gone awry on almost all counts. Lots to work on there....


Source: Mini-Adventures #3 (http://)
Title: fiendblogAnd thus it begins...
Post by: comPiler on March 23, 2024, 07:00:21 pm
And thus it begins...



T = 0
I'm sat on a slope of tumbling tussocks, 20m above the sea, 70m below the crag top, looking out at a rising trench of steep silt with little sign of protection nor security, and I'm terrified. Unusually, rarely, I don't want to be here. A non-trivial percentage of my brain wants to scramble out and haul up the ab rope. My confidence has been very vague this summer, I'm fed up of being stressed and scared - not of the climbing, but of my own mental fragility. But....maybe I could just pull on the first holds, see if I can move...

T +1.2hrs
I'm sat on a small pedestal at the top of the silt trench, anchored in to abstract ironmongery hammered into dust, and I feel sick with fear. Well, partly fear and partly my guts playing up after wolfing down an emergency egg breakfast. The fragility is still there - if I struggled to cope with the easy intro pitch, how can I cope with the main pitches?? Maybe it's best to finish up an easier version, maybe I could cope with that. Except I'd have to do it all again at some point in the future. But....the next "poor rock" section looks easier, and I can see some resting spots to aim for...

T +1.4hrs
I've just pulled onto a thin wall, out of the steep looseness, and onto terrain that intimidates me just as much - sheer and smooth and supposedly sustained. But....I'm hanging on okay, I'm trusting small finger flakes, small foot edges, a good small nut next to me....I'm no longer scared....I'm curious, I'm inspired, I'm becoming happy....

( T +2.5hrs - the above photo )


T +4hrs
I'm sat on a dusty crag top, belaying, diligently taking the the ropes at constantly contrasting paces to best protect my partner on the bewilderingly weaving top pitch. I'm mostly.....surprised. Surprised I could cope with the initial reluctance, especially surprised I could transmogrify from that fear and nervousness to genuine pleasure in the middle pitch. Pagan isn't the hardest route I've done (nor the hardest this year, nor the hardest on South Stack), but it is one of the hardest that I've ever climbed when I've been so lacking in confidence - confidence being one of the essential pre-requisites (along with a light touch, trad nouse, and a lot of cams, rather than physical prowess) for this sort of terrain. I'm still not quite sure how it happened...

Expansive.

The mildly horrifying ""E3 5b"" first pitch. 50% of the climbing on this pitch you could have a nasty accident on.

The completely fine and normal first belay. "Yes we could sling together the 3 pegs in siltstone and abseil off into the sea to escape".

~~{§}~~


Meanwhile, a few weeks earlier....

As chance would have it, I started the Red Wall campaign nicely early this year, scarcely a few days after the bird ban was off. Gogarth South became my constant literary companion...

I've always particularly loved the second paragraph :)

Looking down to Left Hand Red Wall, about to do Left Hand Red Wall. Another traumatic start off the tussocky ramp!

LHRW was a stern reacquaintance with the terrain, but pretty good. But not as good as Television Route which was bloody marvellous, surely one of the best single pitches in the whole UK. The tricky climbing on this 45m route starts at about the 3m mark and eventually eases off at the 43m mark, and on the way takes in a massive variety of steep, committing, wobbly, technical and constantly interesting climbing. World class.

Incidentally the description is quite inaccurate so have a proper one:

Television Route E4 5c *** 45m
Start by the two loose spikes. Just to the right is a groove, follow it, passing a few rusty relics from the original aided ascent. Surmount a loose bulge to gain a better crack and step right to an improvement in rock quality and more bolt heads. Continue on easier ground with little gear to an overhung red niche in the groove, and make crux moves around the right edge of the overhang via a "thank god" jug. Move up to the where the groove steepens again, and step right to a rib and spike holds, then trend left and finish up the continuation groove, past the last remnants of scrap metal.

However there weren't enough sandy troughs on TR, so I had to go back and do Last Of The Summer Wine, a lesser-rated but quite quintessential Red Wall experience, as seen below:

"Moon cheese" according to Andy McBiscuit. Mars cheese according to me!!

The usual view of the usual situation.

Recovering after the "very exciting" start to pitch 3 - right limbs on overhanging flanges of quartz, left limbs on fins of silt. All quite emotional. Above this it was a typically brilliant finish up steady steepness - the final straits of these routes are invariably euphoric.

~~{§}~~

So, if everyone can forgive a bit of numerical masturbation, and very much taking into account the start of this post where I fully explicated my weakness, that makes it 5 out of 5 successes on  Red Wall E4s (the others being Cannibal and Rapture Of The Deep), and 9 out of 9 successes overall on South Stack (adding in Hysteresis on Mousetrap, Dogs Of War and 93,000,000 Miles on Yellow Wall, and Natalie in Natalie Zawn). I will aim to do Kalahari Highway to get to a nice round number and have something on Castle Helen, but of course the post-bird-ban stuff has been a priority recently. What that all means I don't really know (especially since one generally steps onto these crags with enough in hand that failure is unlikely, or were it to happen one is unlikely to be around to blog about it afterwards!), but given my passion for the area it's something worth celebrating??

Thanks to Jodie and Jordan for accompanying me on these shenanigans.



Source: And thus it begins... (http://)
Title: fiendblogMoonboard? Manorboard!
Post by: comPiler on March 24, 2024, 01:00:33 am
Moonboard? Manorboard!

 

Power-to-weight is a constant battle. Too little of the former, too much of the latter. The latter I can do very little about as the DVTs prevent easy CV exercise and the b0rked digestion (and healthier diet to try to alleviate it) simultaneously gives me lower energy without any weight reduction. I once asked an established climbing coach I met at the crag about the general issue, and the short answer was "It's fine to be really heavy, you just have to be really fucking strong too", and the disclaimer "The trick is to get strong without getting injured". I haven't booked a masterclass quite yet. 

But yes the former I can at least try to do something about and maybe I should try a bit harder instead of spinning the ledge shuffling and esoteric bouldering and quick easy redpoint plates. Actually, I have lost a couple of kilos this summer (a dozen to go...), and this is almost entirely due to some hefty days out combining ledge shuffling with inimical walking. One edge of this sword is a tiny improvement in fitness and lightness, the other edge is a severe blunting of any power. Hauling my carcass up to Dow for two 6A+ moves, or a full day trudging back and forth around The Range doesn't actually get you strong, who would have thought it?? And when the buffer between my sport / bloc ability and my trad desires often feels as thin as a midge's scrotum, there's something to heed there.

A while ago I realised how dire the situation was that I was a solid grade and a half below my redpointing at this time last year, despite not having the restrictive nonsense of a spring lockdown to crawl back from. By chance the revamped Awesome Stockport bouldering room has a vastly better selection of holds and problems on nice angles, the same terrible decor and ear-vomittingly awful dad rock soundtrack, AND a new Moonboard with wooden holds, which lured me in with promises of a convenient skin-friendly power top-up. 

Naturally I took to this like a cat to water, although admittedly it was as much an issue of the constant "so farcical it's gone beyond hilarious and back around into tediously unfunny" pseudo-grading, the common terrible setting by morons who should be blocked off the MB app, and the often entirely useless feet-follow-hands style which given the larger holds on the easier problems reduces most situations to neanderthal lurching between relative jugs whilst pretending that "finger strength" and "core tension" are not relevant things to be trained. But at least the app makes it vaguely easy to sift through all the dross that actually gets in the way of training to find the occasional sandbag gem that might actually get me stronger. 

After a few sessions moaning my way through the 40° steepness I didn't feel any weaker, so en route back to Gogarth for some Red Walls trough squirming I stopped off at Manor Crag which has always looked fairly aesthetic for limestone. Given the angle of the place I had initial hopes that it could be a good test to see if the Moonboard had given me any hint of a power top-up, but on first viewings I remembered this same angle is my definite anti-style and resigned myself to merely getting a workout failing on everything, and at least it's more scenic than the AWMB. 

But then this happened....




....which was quite a shock to me. I know, climber in "trains a bit on a steep board and then does okay on steep board-ish style climbs" shocker, hold the fucking press. Actually in terms of tackling challenges, this is one of my very best bouldering days out ever, it didn't even feel like a training day because it was over so quick. A few notes: Jawa I missed the flash simply because I forgot my planned sequence and where to bump my hand to. Patch's Crack I missed the flash because I didn't seat the hand jam right a couple of times. Cracked Roof I missed the flash because I didn't get my thumb fully in the jam first time - all very close things!! All very good fun too.

Anyway recently I went back on the Moonboard a couple of times, there's a Font """""6B+""""" that I've tried at least a few times each session for 6 sessions now. I'm almost close. Almost. 



Source: Moonboard? Manorboard! (http://)
Title: fiendblogShadows of hope.
Post by: comPiler on March 24, 2024, 01:00:04 pm
Shadows of hope.

 
The moments of light that shine through the darkness are real and wonderful, but sporadic.


"You seem to still be ticking off a lot of crags/routes on your list. Good work."

...said Biscuit. Oh how social media lies, even if you don't use cuntstagram. Show a few half-decent shots, write a couple of blog posts, celebrate the occasional success, and it all looks fine on the surface. People can assume it's representative, that it's all going well, a general trend of success and satisfaction. The bigger picture is of course bigger, and sometimes blander, and sometimes bleaker. 

The reality is ticking off very few routes of my list, and even fewer of the most inspiring and challenging ones. The shown successes are also real, but circumstance and self-timer means a disproportionate amount of showing off. There's not really a hidden iceberg of further successes beneath the photographic tip, instead it's a dark pool swirling with depression, disorganisation, de-confidence. 

Funnily enough this is not the sort of DMac style depression that gets you running up Ben Nevis on rest days. I've never encountered that sort of depression, I'd love to get hold of some. Okay so no amount of mental bleakness is going to overcome fluid mechanics and get me fell-running by pure magic, but obsessive training / physical activity depression?? Much better than the common-or-garden hiding-under-the-duvet-hoping-either-the-world-fucks-off-or-you-do depression. The latter really doesn't get you fit nor strong for climbing. And interval timer shots of someone staring at their phone for hours, desperately trying to summon up the courage to get in contact with someone or make a plan to get away, doesn't get you many "likes" on FB....


"It IS supposed to be fun, climbing...." 

...said Reeve. And indeed it is fun. Lots of fun. Type 1 or below fun (even if it sometimes takes a bit of Type 1.5 to overcome to get there), that's why I go on Red Walls and The Range, not hanging off bolts at The Tor, nor winter fucking mountaineering (the latter being Type 3 fun - the only pleasure coming from finally stopping it and forgetting the horror).

The problem comes when a lot of fun comes from the challenge, and the challenge is is a huge motivator and also big and scary and that's quite off-putting for the mind, and when the mind is as dysfunctional as mine can be, well, the mental processes are Not Fun - trying to get to grips with the fun is not fun. The desire is very strong and very authentic and gets proven so on the rare occasions I get to grips with those challenges and pull through them. Almost inevitably no matter how daunting the prospect or tortuous and convoluted the process to get there, the actual climbs and experiences that I've somehow ended up fixating on are really wonderful. But fuck me it would be easier if they were easier.... But then I wouldn't want to do them as much. FFS.

So this somewhat tedious post (yes, I'd much rather be writing about sandy troughs, but I am allowed to express these issues, just as you're allowed to "smash" the back button on your browser so quickly it counts as fast twitch muscle training, at any rate I'm hoping that expelling some of this discordant mental shit will be as relieving as when my bowels expel their discordant bacterial shit at higher and scarcely less readable velocity) bookends the summer with the more positive glimmers of hope I initially felt. It's been up and down, there's definitely been some good stuff, and definitely some bad stuff, most of it inside my head. I'm just keeping plodding on, trying to stay focused when I can, trying to stay accepting when I can't, trying to keep moving because that all adds up in the end. 


Source: Shadows of hope. (http://)
Title: fiendblogMini-Adventures #4
Post by: comPiler on March 25, 2024, 01:04:55 am
Mini-Adventures #4

 
(Ab)normal service resumes??  They're getting mini-er and slightly less adventurous, but no less fun-spirited...



Fear Test, Rhoscolyn. A well-named wee route combining boldness with steepness, although thankfully not exactly at the same time. Hidden out of view just below me is an "alarmingly steep groove" that only partially lives up to that promise, having neither a good crack at the back nor enough angularity for good bridging at the front. It does have good holds which is quite welcome when fiddling in spaced and obtuse cams. Once this is dealt with, it is a matter of some elation popping through the steepest bulge out onto the biggest jugs and romping to the top. 

8b+ Reeve was trying to persuade me that this was a good option to warm-up and get inspired for Big Sunday E5 6a just to the left, equally alarming in angle but woefully lacking in any form of groove-based respite. Funnily enough 7b+ Fiend politely declined (okay, there was no politeness actually involved....).




Grazed And Confused, The Range. This is one of the mini-adventures of the year. One star, a completely wrong topo of an adjacent route, a hopeless description, and good potential to be lowered into the sea if you muff the crux. I was extremely close to backing off when the the last two factors saw me in a stable position but struggling to decide between a highly off-putting hard and protectionless roof above me or a highly offputting cramped traverse to swing blindly out in space to the right of me. Reeve was disarmingly cheery and encouraging on belay whilst I was sweating and stalling. Eventually the swing right was right and led to more comprehensible terrain and a feeling of "I'm not quite sure how I committed through that and ended up here but I'm bloody glad I did"

This route had it all packed into a compact size: interesting line, variety of climbing, essential Gogarth "hanging slabs" and "shuffling between roofs", funky rock, good gear where needed, the lurking zawn below... 

The correct description: 
From the palatial ledges, step down and traverse right on an easy slab until it is possible to pull up a blocky feature to beneath the main roof. Make an increasingly cramped traverse right and a committing swing around the corner to pull up onto easier ground on the grey corrugated slab. Climb through the weakness in the overlap above to finish up the yellow slab.



The Range at sunset - obviously the fantastic light came out just after all the climbing was finished!! This is mostly looking towards Emmenthal Zawn, Wensleydale Walls, and The Fortress on the right. Lurking out of shot are Housetrap Zawn, The Old Steam Piano, Curious Yellow, Daichotomous etc etc.



Cilan Head, looking North from Mur Y Fulfran. Cilan Main is partly tucked out of view just behind the brighter white patch that's just right of centre. Zawn Two is the shaded buttress nearer by with the diagonal top. This was taken from the very amenable (tidal considerations aside - yes it really is that bad for swell!) MYF - Cilan Lite at it's litest!


Cantre'r Gwaelod, Mur Y Fulfran. Silence Of The Clams climbs the chimney to the left, I'm Not Swimming Now climbs the stepped corner to the right. This is a rather fine route for anyone who is a fan of cranking through slabby bulges, as it mostly involves cranking through slabby bulges. This, and a couple of other cool little routes that we did, was disarmingly normal and conventional, despite the feeling of general wildness and "not like anywhere else" that the area has. Given the suntrap location there might be more mini-adventures here this autumn who knoweth....


Source: Mini-Adventures #4 (http://)
Title: fiendblogSolace??
Post by: comPiler on March 25, 2024, 01:00:07 pm
Solace??

 
So. I lost my confidence, I lost my motivation for organising away trips, I got depressed.

I came up with a cunning plan to deal with this: 

I delayed the climbing that I was struggling with, I put on hold the more complex trad challenges, relinquished them to next spring, and started to think about preparing for that in advance.

I gave myself a focus for training, taking a slightly longer term view to try to address my genuine need to have a bit more in reserve physically to tackle those challenges, and anticipating winter to be a good time for that.

I dialled my climbing back to something that was manageable but enjoyable and could contribute to progression: Logistically easy but physically challenging, mostly bouldering, often starting exploring Welsh limestone.

In short I sought solace in enjoying the physical aspect of climbing, whilst relaxing a bit and being patient and preparative.

...

Then I went bouldering on the top of the Little Orme on a bitterly windy day. One of the craglets had the cold wind raking along it and I had to wear a duvet jacket just to try to start climbing.  That was the sheltered crag - at the exposed one I could barely stand up to look at the lines and had to walk back at a 30' angle so I didn't get blown back to Manc. Back at the former I was looking for an autumn project to push myself on, and decided the best course of action was to warm up by vigorously brushing some holds (this did deceptively raise my core temperature), not tape my niggling elbow, and start working a 45' overhanging beyond-my-limit project move-by-move... 

Maybe I didn't notice how badly I'd aggravated my golfer's elbow because everything had gone numb?? Whichever way, I am a fucking idiot.

Solace - gone. Training plans - gone. Relaxation - gone.

Depression - back, with reinforcements and heavier anti-Fiend weapons.

The overall plan for this time had been: Get fitter, get stronger, get more powerful, get more confident physically, get better prepared for next trad season.

Now the imminent future is: Get less fit (and heavier?), get weaker, get less powerful, get more timid and much less confident physically, feel increasingly distant from any trad season.

...

What I'm doing of course is rehab (with good advice from Process), gentle climbing (at least gritstone bumblecircuits are quite pleasant, and indoor walls have plenty of slabs and non-pulling nonsense on them these days), keeping active by going out exploring, going to the gym, and focusing on the minimal things I can train: core, and especially flexibility. Interestingly since I've been doing less proper climbing and more of the latter, I've got all sorts of pains around my hips, buttocks, groin, knees etc. Nothing too inhibitive but extra physical niggles that actually I don't really need.

I still have the same cunning Plan B mentioned at the start of this post, but it's all pretty much delayed until I've healed my elbow to a manageable state. Thus any updates around here are going to be pretty sporadic, unless I find any ethics to rant about. Anyone seen any peg-bolted lower-offs recently??

Anyway here's a couple of things from the recent but very distant-seeming time when I only had mental inhibitions:

A nice little boulder problem.


A fairly mediocre video mostly due to the light and angles and forgetting my camera and using my phone fingertaped to a tripod, but it was only a few days before I properly aggravated my elbow and it does show I was pretty confident with both cranking up things and jumping off things (even though some of those drop-off landings felt as hard as the climber is heavy!!).



Source: Solace?? (http://)
Title: fiendblogSolace Part 2
Post by: comPiler on March 25, 2024, 07:00:33 pm
Solace Part 2


Maybe a post about actually climbing for a change??

(Edit, and warning: there now are a lot of words about climbing in this post, I got carried away)

It's still a struggle. I want to push myself. I want to be climbing at over 50% capacity. I want to train. I want to bivvy beneath the 30' board in the new Depot training room. I want to feel the cranking. Sigh.

But there's a little bit of stuff I can do, apart from easy circuits indoors and trying to work out why the fuck my pelvis and left leg are constantly aching and tweaky despite exercise and stretching. Mostly easy grit, slabs, and easy grit slabs. Thankfully all of those things are rather good so there's some pleasure to be had in the usual luck-based scrittle malarkey of sliding off smears, pinging off pebbles, being unable to reach holds, and moaning about skin / conditions. So here's a little tale about most of those...


M20 and I went questing off to Standing Stones. He promised me a Bonjoy 6C slab, and the chance to heckle him on a downsloping lip traverse just above the pads and then a large drop-off so if the climber fell and the precariously bridged spotter fumbled, you'd both end up plunging headfirst into a likely bottomless pit in the boulders below. I promised myself to get a decent walk, fresh air, and not aggravate my elbow, which is sometimes all I aim for these days.

I'd actually been for a recce last autumn (previous golfer's elbow AND tweaked MCL rehab...) and spotted a few things including this slab that featured one of the two defining characteristics of the extensive SS boulderfield: boulders that either don't have a landing, or are so wedged and jumbled that they don't form problems at all. Since this only featured the former, I decided to investigate further whilst M20 was brushing scrittle or looking lustily at grouse or something. 

The slab was indeed attractive, the terrain beneath it less so, consisting of an artisanal blend of holey bits and jaggy bits and finely seasoned by a suitcase-sized block jutting right out over it. It turns out that the latter was in a fairly relaxed state about it's current position and decided it's ultimate destiny in life was to roll down into one of the afore-mentioned holes in a position which initially seemed equally jutting and inconvenient but actually provided a useful centerpiece around which other unstable blocks could migrate towards and cuddle up next to. An hour or so later there was, miraculously, a landing. And it seemed that no mosses, lichens, ferns nor rodent nests were disturbed in the transition, indeed scarcely a displaced woodlouse was spotted.

...

After some stones had partaken in downwards motion, it was incumbent for the climber to attempt upwards motion. A lone excellent sidepull provided both the solution and conundrum, and it quickly became apparently that it's more obvious orientation naturally led the climber off onto the left arete rather abruptly, albeit after a very pleasant smear-stepping start (Solexit 6A). A more direct line didn't seem to work and I started to lose interest, and, somewhat prematurely, left Gritstone Jesus to take over. He worked out an extended smearing sequence that used the Hold to gaston back right and up, leaving a final smear and stretch to a particularly enticing pebble, at which point the gritstone decided to take revenge for all the downwards motion earlier on, and the pebble and climber joined the downward motion...

At this point the Gritstone Gentleman, after a half-hearted attempt discovering the remaining hole was a pale shadow of the pebble it once embraced, confessed that he was feeling a bit reluctant to fully go for it, as I'd put all the effort into fixing the landing and really I should be giving it a fair go. Gulp. So I did, and the climbing started to feel pretty damn interesting - a different extended sequence of smears led back to the same position, and a worse, higher pebble showed potential to reach the top. After a few tentative dismounts, I pulled on the pebble, bridged a foot onto a ripple and reached.... ....the bloody left arete, albeit a lot higher. 

This was something I hadn't intended nor desired. The problem was already a bit eliminate in that you had to move back right to avoid easier ground, and I wanted it to be a logical eliminate with a simple "avoid the left arete" description. I checked if I could reach the top directly (not really), tried a few more times, skidded off a higher smear, ran out of time and shuffled away. 

But it kept nagging at me, and inspiring me, and it's been a while since I've been able to feel inspiration or anything that motivational. I didn't think there was much to improve to do that last move more directly, just having more time to persist with it and hope the luck part of the luck based scrittle appeared out of somewhere. I bade my time, cleaned off an excellent project to tempt M20 back, and thought about smears. 

...

Eventually M20, MG and I went back - the closest Standing Stones has got to an actual send train! We downgraded the Bonjoy 6B+, did a new one move wonder undercut arete I found - Careless Pork - and I got back on the slab. And exactly the same thing happened, the best position I got into, the way for me to progress was rolling onto the arete. Again I tested the stretch to the top, this time with more diligence, to discover I'd have to be on tip-toes on the crucial ankle-down smear to reach it. Again I passed the baton on, and M20 stretched the very top of the arete and slab apex to match. With the team's support, the assessment was that where you reach from the final position wasn't the main thrust of the problem, and effectively I'd already done it last time. This was quite weird for me, closure of the inspiration not by success but by changing the goalposts.

Post-match analysis however revealed some logic, in which I was inspired by writings of the ex-Newcastle now Cymru captain Pantontino. It's nice for new things to make clear-cut sense: Follow the line from the bottom to the top. But sometimes they don't. Bits of rock impinge, easier ground impinges, features lead away from the best climbing. Guidance from a well-written guide nudges the climber to make the best use out of the rock, even if it means guidelines on what to do. In this case, matching the Hold and rocking back right locks you into the sequence of smears and pebbles until you're bridged higher and either slap the upper arete or the top. Yes you go back to the arete if you can't reach the top, but only after 6 tricky and delicate moves away from the much easier start-sidepull-arete problem.

So it's a flawed result, but there's now a feasible problem with good climbing. It's about 6C/+-ish maybe.

And the name??

Solace.



Source: Solace Part 2 (http://)
Title: Re:  fiendblog
Post by: Fiend on March 25, 2024, 07:06:06 pm
COMPILER GET A FUCKING GRIP.
Title: fiendblogA Very Secret Slab
Post by: comPiler on March 26, 2024, 01:08:37 am
A Very Secret Slab


Seek and ye shall find....maybe....or just get lost in the woods. 


Paul's Peach Slab, Honley Old Woods - update.

Main problems thoroughly cleaned November 2021


Approach:


The old parking at the end of Hassocks Lane is no longer viable as it's now a public bridleway and even if you park very discreetly and sensibly you'll likely get some self-important twat in the last house / building site blocking you in and waffling on about road traffic act blah blah whatever shut up already you tedious bellend.

Instead, park carefully on the verge next to a gate on the south side of Meltham Road, halfway between Honley Livery Stables and the edge of Honley Village, 50m west of the footpath / farm track leading to Hassocks Lane. Walk north down this track to the woodland, go into the woods and diagonally left for 30m until a carved block points a path leading rightwards, i.e. directly away from the main road. Follow this path for 200m until it reaches the valley edge, and drops down beneath Old Honley Wood Quarry. Turn left onto the path above the edge and follow this for 300m or so until it intertwines with a path on the left, next to the fence on the left. At this point you should be directly opposite a strange silo in a clearing to the left, turn right and the top of the slab should be 20m down the valley slope.


Problems:


The description on the Kirklees climbing site isn't very clear and the update on UKC doesn't help much either! So maybe this will show the potential.... Apart from miscellaneous pebbles and smears, the centre of the slab has few features, but the two main ones naturally lead to distinct and good quality variants. The main holds are a head-height diagonal edge left of centre (with a good starting smear low down), and a very shallow flaky scoop high up with a useful rail at it's bottom.

? - A possible one move wonder up the left edge.

PL - Peach Lefthand 6C?
Shorter but still tricky and good. Right hand gaston the diagonal edge, right foot low smear, and climb straight up on pebbles, with or without the scoop rail to finish.

PP - Paul's Peach 6B+
The original and best linking of the features. Left hand sidepull the diagonal edge, left foot low smear, and reach and rock up right to the scoop rail before finishing slightly leftwards.

PSD - Peach Superdirect 7A?
Fierce pebble pulling to get the most slab value. Just right climb direct on pebbles to the scoop rail, match it and finish slightly rightwards. 

TS - Tentative Steps 4+
Link the lower diagonal runnel and a good flat hold above to gain the right crest of the slab.

Low Traverse - It would also be possible to do a rather fun traverse from the good footholds on the left edge all the way into Tentative Steps to finish.



Source: A Very Secret Slab (http://)
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