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« Last post by Fultonius on Today at 05:06:06 pm »
It'll be interesting to see where Will Bosi thinks Honey Badger and Terranova fit amongst these.
Aidan's got so much specific strength that it might hold Bosi back for a while! We'll see...
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« Last post by 36chambers on Today at 04:55:54 pm »
Seeing the recent exploits of the Aidanwad reminded me of that arch to the right of Cypher at Slipstones. It's so obvious that it must surely have been tried by absolutely everyone over the years. Does anybody know if anyone has got close to it or whether any of the current crop of wads have had a look at it?
This always struck me as a great bit of rock architecture, but maybe not one made for quality climbing?
agreed, looks good from afar and nasty up close. More importantly, has anyone had a properly look at the Cypher sitter? From memory it looks almost too easy to be true.
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« Last post by teestub on Today at 04:53:26 pm »
Seeing the recent exploits of the Aidanwad reminded me of that arch to the right of Cypher at Slipstones. It's so obvious that it must surely have been tried by absolutely everyone over the years. Does anybody know if anyone has got close to it or whether any of the current crop of wads have had a look at it?
This always struck me as a great bit of rock architecture, but maybe not one made for quality climbing?
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low right start to the prow at caley crag.
really nice holds. good starting hold. seems to lack one hold to get into the start of the normal prow. i would predict 8B minimum
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« Last post by Fiend on Today at 02:36:45 pm »
Was watching the recently uploaded video of some random steep hard things in some random euro place, and I just wanted to say that it is really rather exciting that we have not one, but two, multiple 9A boulderers come through in the recent couple of years, both inspiring climbers and one of them seems to have the biggest smile in climbing, and basically it's cool, people are pulling hard on small holds 
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« Last post by Will Hunt on Today at 02:23:25 pm »
Seeing the recent exploits of the Aidanwad reminded me of that arch to the right of Cypher at Slipstones. It's so obvious that it must surely have been tried by absolutely everyone over the years. Does anybody know if anyone has got close to it or whether any of the current crop of wads have had a look at it?
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« Last post by Fiend on Today at 12:13:43 pm »
If anyone has got board of the 785 links on the Birdsong face at Bradley, and needs some active rest, here are some mid-high 6s up some of the the most aesthetic lines at the crag  I was really quite surprised just how good they were, and they all got a good clean and chalking a few weeks ago. (Not quite as good as The Land Of Giants (despite having a chunky block or two) but also not 9 hours drive for me.)
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« Last post by Yossarian on Today at 11:02:51 am »
Woah, bloody hell Will. That all sounds pretty full on...
Rejoining PC (again).
Post Font and the following week finishing off my board, plan was to ease back into training...
M - 20mm fingerboard pulls to 5x 85kg (this was a bit of a jump) then about an hour on the board. Everything feels quite hard, and it's not set quite right yet / holds still arriving. Main thing is that it feels very different (in a good way) to the 40deg one I use at the wall.
T - Wall. Mostly board, trying to remember all the things I was doing on it previously (had strained oblique in fortnight pre Font so it had been a while since I was on it.) Then wide weighted pull-ups and some curls, etc when I got home.
W
T - Board session with kids. Fingers felt worked pretty rapidly.
F
S - Wall. Aiming for some volume. Then home for a load of strength stuff - weighted pull-ups, locks, etc.
S - More strength stuff - mostly pressing. Bench press seems to be miles off where it was last time, but at least my shoulder isn't clicking.
Looking at booking Font again for early July, so around 11 weeks to lose weight / train hard.
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« Last post by duncan on Today at 10:15:35 am »
He said that I should be able to get back to "normal activity" after about 3 months. When I mentioned climbing he did what the other bloke did which was to tell me off for thinking I was going to get back to falling off things so soon. That's not really what I meant - these guys aren't climbers so don't know that there's such a things as, for instance, top-roping and traversing Henry Price.
So I'm probably looking at at least 6 months before I can do anything meaningful or maybe a year. Or maybe more, we just don't know yet because bone remodelling (where the body gets the bones to look less like a shattered mess and more like
it's original shape) is not entirely predictable. That's OK, which might sound odd coming from a lifer, but it is what it is and there's more in life than just climbing. But I'm wondering what I ought to do (climbing-wise) in the meantime, which is the point of this post.
The last thing I crimped was some damp limestone near the top of Barrel Buttress and that was 4 weeks ago. I definitely can't be lifting up anything heavy and I'm not even sure if/when I should use a fingerboard. So after the 3 month mark I wonder what sort of climbing activity I should do to maintain some sort of strength/form for my glorious return, whenever that may be. I'm not expecting to return to climbing and immediately start trying to RP an 8a again, but I don't want to have completely deconditioned and at risk of finger injuries from a sudden return to sport climbing. I don't like fingerboarding, so the idea of doing 6 months of it isn't appealing, but that might be the only thing available to keep things ticking over?
I'm not expecting any definite answers or a planned training programme, I just thought it would help to write down my thoughts and see if anybody else has been in a similar position of not wanting/expecting improvements during a hiatus, but also not wanting a complete loss of strength.
When you see the surgeon next, think of questions that will give an indication of how much you can load your spine in terms he'll understand. If you're clear to carry a heavy bag of shopping then you're probably fine to do single finger pick-ups with, say, 10kg that will be having some training effect. If you are clear to do a lats. pull-down and biceps curls in the gym then you're likely OK to top-rope easy stuff with a careful belayer. You could probably do some tiny load, high repetition, long duration finger work right now, as endorsed by Dave Mason. The ' pinch thing' seems to be the gadget du jour but you could also do finger curls, with a bar or using a small edge in pick-up position, with a 1-2kg weight. 15 minutes at a time of this tries the patience but will give you a good base of forearm endurance. Good luck and always be careful to load your spine symmetrically!.
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« Last post by PeteHukb on Today at 09:37:33 am »
Yeesh, that is some x-ray, Will. Well done with the swimming etc, hopefully the fracture is well on its way towards healing with the good start you've given it.
I'm not a physio or a spinal surgeon but I'd have thought the absolute imperative in the first 3 months is avoiding excessive loading on L1 and its muscular /tendinous attachments in any direction - compression (falling), rotation, flexion/extension (careful with the yoga?) - but staying as active and mobile as possible within those constraints.
Fingerboarding is the obvious choice but it may have to be sub-limit to avoid any risk of slipping off suddenly (or rig up a harness to catch yourself if that happens?) Top-roping might be even safer, but you will need to take care to avoid hard twisting movements, bunched undercutting etc. Front-point crimping is probably the way to go.
After 3 months you'll hopefully be given more freedom to work on flexibility (you will have lost some) and it'll be important to get this back before/in tandem with building back up towards more normal climbing.
Listen to your body, prioritise safety over progress, the first opportunity for this to heal well is the one you want to take.
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