UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: douglas on January 18, 2012, 04:44:05 pm
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What are the best lines in the UK? The purest, proudest and most awe inspiring boulders? All grades.
Careless Torque
Malc's Arete
Zoo York
Please add your suggestions, but avoid making the list shgritstone-centric please, it trashes my skin.
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I think a more interesting question would be "what are the shittest looking lines in the UK that climb like dreams..?"
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Pock Block??
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Matterhorn Arete, Almscliff.
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The Essence @ Torridon
Matterhorn Arete @ Almscliff
Jason's roof @ Croorise
Horror Arete @ Bridestones
Fast car @ Porth Ysgo
Tetris @ Roaches
Red handed @ RITW
Storm @ Stanage
Poetry in Motion @ Rylstone
Cocoa Team @ Rylstone
Lanny Bassham (sp?) @ Rylstone
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far better lines at the ysgo than Fast Cars!
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I knew someone would be along to nitpick.
I've not done it, just think it looks like a cool line.
What do you suggest I should say then Doylo, please tell me what my opinion should be.
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What are the best lines in the UK? The purest, proudest and most awe inspiring boulders? All grades.
Careless Torque
Malc's Arete
Zoo York
Please add your suggestions, but avoid making the list shgritstone-centric please, it trashes my skin.
You've never been to nesscliffe have you?
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Suavito @ Gardoms
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Oh poo. You said boulders.
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Northern soul - hepburn
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Sing a rainbow - Carrock
Rouse's Wall - Carrock
Malc's Arete - Torridon
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Powerband
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Unsurprisingly there are lots of aretes in the list... including..
Cypher @ slipstones.
Fish Arete @ Wimberry
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Not to be Taken Away
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I knew someone would be along to nitpick.
I've not done it, just think it looks like a cool line.
What do you suggest I should say then Doylo, please tell me what my opinion should be.
i think your opinion should of been last rites, jack daniels connection, aint no party, the malteser, all king lines on pill box, mint as fuck ;)
this is rather good for a newbie:
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=548 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=548)
Fast Cars is quite nice but not comparable to the others in your list
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Last rites
jack Daniels Connection
Ain't no party
The Malteser
Some shitty crimpfests on an uninspiring limestone wall :)
Mint as Fuck
Jim'll Fix It (I did see that report earlier and thought it looked like a great line)
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Does "King Line" now mean "quite good"? If so, I agree with most of the suggestions.
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The full yorkshireman (i.e from sit) - kyloe in.
Powerband
can't believe noones mentioned bear claw either dave.
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Good call, yorkshireman probably is the best problem in the uk.
Also zippy's sidepull.
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Ones I have seen, tried or done
Torniquet (Kentmere)
Groove armada (Lad stones)
Lanny Bassham (Rylestone)
Jason Roof (Crookrise)
Rhythm (Flasby Fell)
Ben's Groove sit (Caley)
Zoo York (Caley)
Supercede (Hartland)
Colorado Dreaming (Tintagnel)
Careless Torque (Stanage)
Voyager (Burbage)
Sabotage (Dumby)
Pool of Bethesda (Pass)
Requiem for a dream (East coast)
Lets not forget...... Il Pirata (down a rabbit hole in Trowbarrow quarry)
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Pool of Bethesda? really?
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Carbide (Fair Head)
Triggers (Binnian North Tor)
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Pool of Bethesda? really?
No? It's good, you're a man of height and strength you should do it!!
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I've only seen pictures of it, but surely that convex prow/arete thingy in Torridon?
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You mean Malc's Arete? Or Pallet Knife? Or The Essence?
Probably the first, but the others are pretty cool too.
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You mean Malc's Arete?
Indeed I do. Thanks
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Pool of Bethesda? really?
:agree:
likewise tourniquet.
How about subtilitas at nesscliffe? A bit left of field but a natural line that climbs well on good rock
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A few Others...
Queen Kong
Red Dragon
The Magician
Superbloc
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Spare Rib/Brutal Arete/Spare Rib/Brutal Arete whatever.
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Fight On Black at Widdop is worth a mention.
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Great suggestions! Here they are:
Carbide (Fair Head)
Triggers (Binnian North Tor)
Arc Royal (Queens)
Groove armada (Lad stones)
Lanny Bassham (Rylestone)
Jason Roof (Crookrise)
Rhythm (Flasby Fell)
Ben's Groove sit (Caley)
Zoo York (Caley)
High Fidelity (Caley)
Supercede (Hartland)
Colorado Dreaming (Tintagnel)
Purple Haze (Tintagel)
Careless Torque (Stanage)
Voyager (Burbage)
Sabotage (Dumby)
Pool of Bethesda (Pass)
In Hell (Cave)
Requiem for a dream (East coast)
Not to be Taken Away (Stanage)
Cypher (slipstones)
Fish Arete (Wimberry)
Powerband (Tor)
Sing a rainbow (Carrock)
Rouse's Wall (Carrock)
Malc's Arete (Torridon)
Northern soul (hepburn)
Suavito (Gardoms)
Poetry in Motion (Rylstone)
Red handed (Reiff in the woods)
The Essence (Torridon)
Matterhorn Arete (Almscliff)
Horror Arete (Bridestones)
Fast car (Porth Ysgo)
Red handed (Reiff in the woods)
Cocoa Team Special (Rylstone)
Subtilitas (nesscliffe)
Queen Kong (Queens)
Red Dragon (Queens)
The Magician (Ravensheugh)
Superbloc (Moorside)
Brutal Arete (Stanton)
Brownian Motion (Chevin)
Fight on Black (Widdop)
That's all those mentioned, I've missed a couple out and added a few of my own but ultimately I'd like to narrow the list to 20 real King Lines scattered about the UK. These are the ★★★★★ lines that when you see them you just have to try to climb them! If you can't climb them then you train until you can, they look that good!
Keep the suggestions coming and also help me please ditch the mere 4 star lines from the list above...
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There's a lot of aretes....but aretes are awesome (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13731.msg247658.html#msg247658).
Obviously you can't have anything in the cave as there are no lines there.
What ones aren't aretes??
Also add:
Spanking The Monkey / Monkey Spanking @ Cambusbarron - ★★★★★ line with two ★★★ problems, even if it is in a ★ location.
I'd also vote for some other Stanage ones, even The Ace for it's blinding obviousness and purity.
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Pool of Bethesda (Pass) A king line??
In Hell (Cave) Not a line.
Powerband (Tor) This was a joke. Replace with 1-11-14 or Killerweed for a REAL line at the tor.
Let's be honest, UK lime - whilst it is, obviously, way better than grit - is unlikely to feature on any list of king lines as far as bouldering goes...
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Let's be honest, UK lime - whilst it is, obviously, way better than grit -
Honesty will break my heart so, for that reason, In Hell and Powerband are staying!
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Of the ones I've seen or done:
Lanny Bassham (Rylestone) Very impressive.
Ben's Groove sit (Caley) No. A 4 star problem, but not a king line.
Zoo York (Caley) Again, a good line but not incredible.
High Fidelity (Caley) King of Caley
Careless Torque (Stanage) King of Stanage
Voyager (Burbage) Not in the same class as the last two.
Pool of Bethesda (Pass) No chance.
Not to be Taken Away (Stanage) A king for the everyman.
Cypher (slipstones) Almost small by modern standards, but still a perfect line.
Fish Arete (Wimberry) No.
Powerband (Tor) Fuck off.
Northern soul (hepburn) Just about, though there are more if this class makes the grade.
Suavito (Gardoms) Aesthetically handicapped by surrounding blocks.
Poetry in Motion (Rylstone) No - the neighbouring lines are equally good, and the nearby Naked Edge is superior.
Matterhorn Arete (Almscliff) Nah.
Horror Arete (Bridestones) Having that, essential.
Fast car (Porth Ysgo) Not a chance, the project wall at Talfarach is a better contender in this area.
Cocoa Team Special (Rylstone) Perhaps, but not as good as Lanny and spoilt by hideous pocket.
Subtilitas (nesscliffe) No way. Best line in Shropshire is at Grinshill, but wouldn't quite make it here.
Superbloc (Moorside) Perhaps, a little hemmed in by gully.
Brutal Arete (Stanton) Why travel to France? Better than anything in Font.
Brownian Motion (Chevin) Outstanding line.
Fight on Black (Widdop) Great moves, but a bit small and undistiguished.
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pete's thing the lou ferrino - bonnie link? best line on uk lime?
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For some easier graded problems I would suggest the Magicians Nephew also at Queens Crag and one I am looking forward to trying is Where The Wild Things Are at Lower Tosson in Northumberland http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=160967 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=160967)
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Made in Heaven at Porth Ysgo?
...and the Fred Nicole Roof (also at Ysgo) when somebody does it!
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Did anybody mention Queen Kong? Awesome line.
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Flatworld's a nice line.
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Cosmic wheels?
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Did anybody mention Queen Kong? Awesome line.
And what about Arc Royal?
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Can't believe **, H, Top isn't in either.
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Queen Kong and Arc Royal are both in that list?
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Good call on Horror Arete JB...
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Queen Kong and Arc Royal are both in that list?
Really!?
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You dick.
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Will, The Mallory Boulder
The Crack, Bowden
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You dick.
Is that somewhere in Scotland? is it an arete or face? ;)
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Cosmic wheels?
Not a king line, good boulder though
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Might have been mentioned but
Yellow Desert Scream, St Bees.
Impailed, Dove Crag. (Stunning sharp arete below crag)
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Crescent Arete - or is only 7b+ and above considered bouldering these days?
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Good call, yorkshireman probably is the best problem in the uk.
Good but spoilled slightly by crux being slap to a razor and finishing in no man's land
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Most obvious candidates mentioned already.
Other possibles, The big sharp arete at Grinah, Jason's Roof at Crookrise, Velvet Silence and Art Nouveau are no higher than some stuff already mentioned.
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Most obvious candidates mentioned already.
Other possibles, , Jason's Roof at Crookrise,
what about arc royal and queen kong?
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The Crack, Bowden
Sandy choss pile. Would be 5 star if the rock wasn't eroding so badly.
I was going to say looks better than it climbs, but it does actually climb well. It really is a pity that the rock just isn't kyloe quality, or it'd be right up there
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brass monkeys at stanage?
pongo ss at dumby?
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Not wanting to add more grit, but Chip Shop Brawl at Stanage is clearly the visually best line on grit
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the ramp at cromlech, boysens groove and the groove at wavelength are pretty cool lines surely?
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Am I missing something brilliant on this thread? Are you guys the crew?
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brass monkeys at stanage?
pongo ss at dumby?
Pongo SS - classic, first 8A in Scotland but not a 'King Line' in any way!
King Kong - Dumby, IMO a better line than Sabotage, but both equally good...
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the ramp at cromlech, boysens groove and the groove at wavelength are pretty cool lines surely?
Nice choices to have some non-arete ones. I think the groove for sure.
On the grit I presume WSS has been mentioned?
At Dumby I would agree with Sabotage or King Kong - the former isn't quite as pure but it is very proud and a full on climbing experience.
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I uploaded a few shots of some unclimbed lines on Wicklow granite http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2012/01/unclimbed-projects.html (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2012/01/unclimbed-projects.html)
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Am I missing something brilliant on this thread? Are you guys the crew?
You would think so, some of the suggestions that have been made. Brass monkeys!
chip shop brawl is also amazing, but a route? if we're having routes surely Unfamiliar has to be in there?
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I fear that this may be controvertial, but I think Brad Pit is a great line. Blank section of rock with three holds in line. Great moves too. I know the pit is a bit dirty, and the rest of the face is covered in lichen which detracts from it, but the view from the top is great.
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Seems like perfect logic to me.
As far as I can see, assuming that you know nothing about the actual climb, if you look at it and you just want to be able to climb it because it is such a cool feature (or expanse of blankness) then it classes as a good line.
If it turns out that it climbs nicely too, then it is a top line, but this part alone can't make it a good line, that would just make it a good problem.
So I agree, Brad Pitt could qualify.
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Good line? Great line? Or KING LINE? Would Sharma put down his spliff and charter a plane at the sight of it?
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Brad pit isn't even the best line on that boulder.
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Can a mod rename this thread 'decent/not shit problems of the UK'?
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Can a mod rename this thread 'decent/not shit problems of the UK'?
yes they are mostly decent lines rather than king ones (thats britain for you). I guess we're all just passing the time of day though, a few minutes closer to the grave,
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if we're having routes surely UnfamiliarThe Axe has to be in there?
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Can a mod rename this thread 'decent/not shit problems of the UK'?
A good line doesnt mean it climbs well... hence my earlier post - where a far more interesting question is what squalid arse shuffling fetid crap heap looking problems actually climb superbly....? Dare I suggest there may a couple of problems in the cave of justice that might slip in here? ;)
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Can a mod rename this thread 'decent/not shit problems of the UK'?
Quite, this is getting out of hand. Even two of my lines have got on the list.
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A good line doesnt mean it climbs well... hence my earlier post - where a far more interesting question is what squalid arse shuffling fetid crap heap looking problems actually climb superbly....?
How about squalid crap heap looking problems that climb like a heap of squalid crap?
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A good line doesnt mean it climbs well... hence my earlier post - where a far more interesting question is what squalid arse shuffling fetid crap heap looking problems actually climb superbly....?
How about squalid crap heap looking problems that climb like a heap of squalid crap?
Thats an excellent idea too!
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Not that I could even approach doing it, but Silverback at Dumby always looks a fantastic line.
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Not to be Taken Away
yes
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Updated list below. Authenticated ★★★★★ King Lines are indicated. Thanks Johnny. Nice project list Dave (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2012/01/unclimbed-projects.html (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2012/01/unclimbed-projects.html)), Ireland seems like the place to be! Crescent Arete and WSS are not on the list because they one is too close to a much better line and WSS is not pure enough, it might climb well but I'm interested in how they look, how king the line, is rather than the quality of the moves.
Carbide (Fair Head) ★★★★★
Triggers (Binnian North Tor)
Arc Royal (Queens) ★★★★★
Groove armada (Lad stones) ★★★★★
Lanny Bassham (Rylestone) ★★★★★
Jason Roof (Crookrise) ★★★★★
Rhythm (Flasby Fell) - can't find a picture of this
Ben's Groove sit (Caley)
Zoo York (Caley)
High Fidelity (Caley) ★★★★★
Supercede (Hartland) ★★★★★
Colorado Dreaming (Tintagnel)
Purple Haze (Tintagel) ★★★★★
Careless Torque (Stanage) ★★★★★
Voyager (Burbage)
Sabotage (Dumby)
Pool of Bethesda (Pass)
In Hell (Cave)
Requiem for a dream (East coast) ★★★★★
Not to be Taken Away (Stanage) ★★★★★
Cypher (slipstones)
Fish Arete (Wimberry)
Powerband (Tor)
Sing a rainbow (Carrock)
Rouse's Wall (Carrock)
Malc's Arete (Torridon) ★★★★★
Northern soul (hepburn)
Suavito (Gardoms)
Poetry in Motion (Rylstone)
Red handed (Reiff in the woods) ★★★★★
The Essence (Torridon)
Matterhorn Arete (Almscliff)
Horror Arete (Bridestones) ★★★★★
Fast car (Porth Ysgo)
Cocoa Team Special (Rylstone)
Subtilitas (nesscliffe)
Queen Kong (Queens)
Red Dragon (Queens)
The Magician (Ravensheugh)
Superbloc (Moorside)
Brutal Arete (Stanton) ★★★★★
Brownian Motion (Chevin) ★★★★★
Fight on Black (Widdop)
The Joker (Stanage) ★★★★★
Where The Wild Things Are (Lower Tosson) ★★★★★
Flatworld (Baslow)
Will or Cosmic Wheels??? (Mallory Boulder) ★★★★★
Yellow Desert Scream (St Bees)
Impailed (Dove Crag) - can't find a picture of this bloc
King Kong (Dumbarton) ★★★★★
The Groove (Wavelength)
Silverback (Dumbarton)
Any more suggestions?
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Crescent Arete and WSS are not on the list because they one is too close to a much better line and WSS is not pure enough, it might climb well but I'm interested in how they look, how king the line, is rather than the quality of the moves.
Careless Torque (Stanage) ★★★★★
Not to be Taken Away (Stanage) ★★★★★
And how close are these two if you're excluding Crescent Arete due to its proximity to another 'better' line (or in this case lines)?
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And what about Arc Royal?
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Good point but Crescent arete just isn't King enough. Arc Royal is in the list (near the top).
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Rhythm (Flasby Fell)- too good for this list. 6 stars. For a picture look in the new Yorkshire Grit guide.
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Can we at least delete Powerband? It was a fucking joke right?
Also, none of these are any more than good problems.
Fast car (Porth Ysgo)
Subtilitas (nesscliffe)
Fight on Black (Widdop)
Flatworld (Baslow)
The Groove (Wavelength)
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Arc Royal is in the list (near the top).
:fishing:
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If you have one Irish problem it must be Split Arete in Polldoo Glen, Donegal.
(http://www.theshortspan.com/photo/polldoo/polldoo5.jpg)
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King Lines
Malc's Arete (Torridon)
King Kong (Dumbarton)
Red handed (Reiff in the woods)
Arc Royal (Queens)
Requiem for a dream (East coast)
Groove armada (Lad stones)
Lanny Bassham (Rylestone)
Jason Roof (Crookrise)
Rhythm (Flasby Fell)
High Fidelity (Caley)
Not to be Taken Away (Stanage)
Careless Torque (Stanage)
The Joker (Stanage)
Horror Arete (Bridestones)
Brutal Arete (Stanton)
Brownian Motion (Chevin)
Will (Mallory Boulder)
Supercede (Hartland)
Purple Haze (Tintagel)
Carbide (Fair Head)
Split Arete (Polldoo Glen)
Pretty good lines
Triggers (Binnian North Tor)
Ben's Groove sit (Caley)
Zoo York (Caley)
Colorado Dreaming (Tintagnel)
Voyager (Burbage)
Sabotage (Dumby)
Pool of Bethesda (Pass)
In Hell (Cave)
Cypher (slipstones)
Fish Arete (Wimberry)
Sing a rainbow (Carrock)
Rouse's Wall (Carrock)
Northern soul (hepburn)
Suavito (Gardoms)
Poetry in Motion (Rylstone)
The Essence (Torridon)
Matterhorn Arete (Almscliff)
Cocoa Team Special (Rylstone)
Queen Kong (Queens)
Red Dragon (Queens)
The Magician (Ravensheugh)
Superbloc (Moorside)
Yellow Desert Scream (St Bees)
Impailed (Dove Crag) - can't find a picture of this bloc
Silverback (Dumbarton)
Where The Wild Things Are (Lower Tosson)
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r-man does douglas know that you've got hold of his login details?
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Impailed (Dove Crag) - can't find a picture of this bloc
Video here: http://www.lakesbouldering.co.uk/images/videos/impailed038.avi (http://www.lakesbouldering.co.uk/images/videos/impailed038.avi)
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Queen Kong for sure, looks and climbs amazing.
Also at that crag World line maybe? In fact the crag is full of proper lines.
The eyes of silence? Not been but it looks mega.
Bloodsport?
Gaskins 8B at thorn crag.
How about isla de encanta?
Preparation H?
Ironhide sitter possibly
Hueco crack, st bees.
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I for one am dismayed that there's nothing at Almscliff in there.
Sorry it's another arete but I'd have thought that Flying Arete would make the cut, Gypsy too (assuming one tops out of course)...
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Good point but Crescent arete just isn't King enough.
Why not?? WTF is a King Line anyway if a totally-pure semi-highball mega-classic clean-cut arching arete isn't one??
Bloodsport should be in.
Voyager definitely should be in. Stunning in both the line and how the line makes the difficulty so obvious.
Why The Joker rather than The Ace?
You ignored Monkey Spanking @ Cambussbarron, it's purer and cleaner than many listed. You asked for lines not popularity/location.
J Mascis should be in. Another arete but a dramatic one.
Rouse's Wall is only just a line. It's a nice problem but no way as striking as WSS or the Utopia groove. The Crack at Langdale is a better contender.
What the balls is Red Handed??
King Kong is the full line of Silverback and supercedes it.
The other prow on the Rabbit Stone @ Queens, sorry forgot the name, is a kinger line than Red Dragon.
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Voyager is not a King Line. Its crimping across the footholds of a 7a+.
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Queen Kong for sure, looks and climbs amazing.
The eyes of silence? Not been but it looks mega.
Preparation H?
Queen Kong, IMO is a must. Pure line, easiest line up the buttress.... amazing.
Preparation H is stunning, but is spoilt (in terms of a king line) by being slightly eliminate, and the close proximity of A Northern Soul.
Eyes of Silence looks stunning too, although I've not seen it in the flesh...
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Pump Up The Jam @ Skye. It's not an arete. 10m roof crack, does it get much kinger?
Clash Arete @ Clashfarquar
Mestizo @ Dumby - better line than Sabotage. Pure, clean, highball, good landing, and climbs to justify the line.
Outstanding @ Ruthven - a line of juggy holds, good height, great landing, line of least resistance on an imposing face.
Turbinal Nose @ Glen Croe - bulging scoopy prow, well sculpted, dramatic line.
The Mission @ Torridon - subtle line of least resistance on a superb face.
Fungataus Ejaculatus @ Doveholes - beautiful subtle rounded scoop / groove / flake thing, obvious line and as delicate as it looks.
Eyes Of Silence @ Callerhues - as dramatic a fridgehug as anything anywhere.
Magician's Nephew and Rabbitstone Crack @ Queens - just great pure lines on a great bit of rock.
Yorkshire 8a @ Rothley - the king of lip traverses, I hate the genre but no denying the quality of line.
Tufa @ Rothley - a beautiful dinosaur's spine, a V2 climbers version of Hen Cloud's Master of Reality.
Classic Arete @ Shaftoe - exactly what it says.
Magic Flute @ Shaftoe - amazing sculpted scoopline. Better line than many things on the list.
Dulcinea @ Simonside - pure blunt flake / seam, definitely king.
The Young @ Callally - not as obvious a line as many mentioned, but the bit of rock is as king as it gets.
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We need some muthafucking SCIENCE in this thread. I.e. what the hell is a King Line anyway??
Need some numbers for:
Minimum height.
Minimum grade (surely not??).
Minimum distance from adjacent problems (factoring in if adjacent problems are at all reachable as an escape route).
Size of feature compared to surrounding rock.
Maximum size of non-climbable features on said problem.
Additional factors such as: Location, landing, topping out or not, overshadowment by other King Lines, whether climbing matches the line (in how the line dictates the climbing, as much as the actual quality).
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If you have one Irish problem it must be Split Arete in Polldoo Glen, Donegal.
(http://www.theshortspan.com/photo/polldoo/polldoo5.jpg)
Looks like the matterhorn boulder's fit sister
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My only contribution to this daft thread is that Queen Kong and Red Dragon are both very, very impressive lines, with the former undoubtedly being a 'King Line' on a par with anything else in the UK (apart from Careless p'raps, but then that is THE King Line). Arc Royal somehow doesn't have quite the landing? or something?
I'd put Cornelius (Churnet) in there too and maybe even my own problem at Ramshaw :-[
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What the balls is Red Handed??
Its the highball 7a arete down on the patio boulder at RITW, mini-mountain Stac Pollaidh in the background. Its a good line but IMO it should go in the pretty good lines list and the Essence should get bumped up to fully authenticated five star kingness.
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...but your not biased Rich!
But yeah, the Essence is as much a king as Malc's.
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What the balls is Red Handed??
Its the highball 7a arete down on the patio boulder at RITW, mini-mountain Stac Pollaidh in the background. Its a good line but IMO it should go in the pretty good lines list and the Essence should get bumped up to fully authenticated five star kingness.
I'd agree with that, The Essence is stunning, and climbs really well too
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Forgot to say that katz's Chebal at Gorple should be on that list too. 8A+ from sit start. Climbs amazing and is massive.
I ll try and get a pic on later.
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King Lines
Malc's Arete (Torridon)
The Essence (Torridon)
King Kong (Dumbarton)
Red Dragon (Queens)
Arc Royal (Queens)
Queen Kong (Queens)
Requiem for a dream (East coast)
Groove armada (Lad stones)
Lanny Bassham (Rylestone)
Jason Roof (Crookrise)
Rhythm (Flasby Fell)
High Fidelity (Caley)
Not to be Taken Away (Stanage)
Careless Torque (Stanage)
The Joker (Stanage)
Horror Arete (Bridestones)
Brutal Arete (Stanton)
Brownian Motion (Chevin)
Will (Mallory Boulder)
Supercede (Hartland)
Purple Haze (Tintagel)
Carbide (Fair Head)
Split Arete (Polldoo Glen)
Scar Tissue (Callerhues)
The Eyes of silence (Callerhues)
A Moment of Clarity (Thorn Crag)
Hueco crack (St Bees)
Flying Arete (Almscliff)
The Young (Callally)
Cornelius (Churnet)
Good lines
Triggers (Binnian North Tor)
Ben's Groove sit (Caley)
Zoo York (Caley)
Colorado Dreaming (Tintagnel)
Voyager (Burbage)
Sabotage (Dumby)
Pool of Bethesda (Pass)
In Hell (Cave)
Cypher (slipstones)
Fish Arete (Wimberry)
Sing a rainbow (Carrock)
Rouse's Wall (Carrock)
Northern soul (hepburn)
Suavito (Gardoms)
Poetry in Motion (Rylstone)
Matterhorn Arete (Almscliff)
Cocoa Team Special (Rylstone)
The Magician (Ravensheugh)
Superbloc (Moorside)
Yellow Desert Scream (St Bees)
Impailed (Dove Crag)
Red handed (Reiff in the woods)
Where The Wild Things Are (Lower Tosson)
Bloodsport (Shaftoe)
Isla de Encanta (Trowbarrow)
Preparation H (Hepburn)
Gypsy (Almscliff)
Crescent Arete (Stanage)
The Ace (Stanage)
Monkey Spanking (Cambusson)
J Mascis (Gouther)
Pump Up The Jam (Skye)
Clash Arete (Clashfarquar)
Mestizo (Dumbarton)
Outstanding (Ruthven)
Turbinal Nose (Glen Croe)
The Mission (Torridon)
Fungataus Ejaculatus (Doveholes) - can't find a picture of this
Magician's Nephew (Queens)
Rabbitstone Crack (Queens)
Yorkshire 8a (Rothly)
Tufa (Rothly)
Classic Arete (Shaftoe)
Magic Flute (Shaftoe) - can't find this
Dulcinea (Simonside)
California Screamin' (Ramshaw)
Chabal (Gorple)
That's pretty much all that's been mentioned. I'll order them at some other time. I've separated what I think are true King Lines but I'm only going on what Google shows me so am willing to stand corrected. Crescent Arete is overshadowed by its surroundings and so isn't quite King proud. So is Monkey Spanking. I ignored it originally because I remember it being much smaller. Sorry! The Joker I feel is just purer than The Ace, therefore more King.
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On what planet is The Joker a King Line and a better line than Crescent Arete?!! Or The Ace?
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UPpoQcXtA6A/SQD_7Zc7DUI/AAAAAAAAAOM/ceZL5VZfZc4/s400/dan+ashcroft.jpg)
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The reivier at ravensheugh.
The crack at Bowden. Bit sandy but amazing line.
Prep h is an amazing problem but an eliminate so doesn't count.
The young is one of the best anywhere but it is NOT a boulder problem despite what dan might say. You would hurt if you came off the top.
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On what planet is The Joker a King Line and a better line than Crescent Arete?!! Or The Ace?
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UPpoQcXtA6A/SQD_7Zc7DUI/AAAAAAAAAOM/ceZL5VZfZc4/s400/dan+ashcroft.jpg)
Have to agree again, is crack legal now? Joker/Ace has no place on such a list. Crescent Arete should be at the top. Along with Careless and NTBTA, proximity to each other is a blessing, not a curse.
Art Nouveau? How about those things at Brandrith? Never been but meant to be very good.
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Prep h is an amazing problem but an eliminate so doesn't count.
how the hell is preparation h eliminate
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Prep h is an amazing problem but an eliminate so doesn't count.
how the hell is preparation h eliminate
Because, doesn't it eliminates the vertical crack of A Northern Soul? If this isn't a stipulation then its easier than 8A..... it's possible to climb it using the same sequence plus the addition of one hand move in the base of the vertical crack of A Northern Soul.....probably hard 7C/easy 7C+ like this
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Has this thread not made it to the shitheap yet? :yawn:
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King Lines
Malc's Arete (Torridon)
The Essence (Torridon)
King Kong (Dumbarton)
Red Dragon (Queens)
Arc Royal (Queens)
Queen Kong (Queens)
Requiem for a dream (East coast)
Groove armada (Lad stones)
Lanny Bassham (Rylestone)
Jason Roof (Crookrise)
Rhythm (Flasby Fell)
High Fidelity (Caley)
Not to be Taken Away (Stanage)
Careless Torque (Stanage)
The Joker (Stanage)
Horror Arete (Bridestones)
Brutal Arete (Stanton)
Brownian Motion (Chevin)
Will (Mallory Boulder)
Supercede (Hartland)
Purple Haze (Tintagel)
Carbide (Fair Head)
Split Arete (Polldoo Glen)
Scar Tissue (Callerhues)
The Eyes of silence (Callerhues)
A Moment of Clarity (Thorn Crag)
Hueco crack (St Bees)
Flying Arete (Almscliff)
The Young (Callally)
Cornelius (Churnet)
Good lines
Triggers (Binnian North Tor)
Ben's Groove sit (Caley)
Zoo York (Caley)
Colorado Dreaming (Tintagnel)
Voyager (Burbage)
Sabotage (Dumby)
Pool of Bethesda (Pass)
In Hell (Cave)
Cypher (slipstones)
Fish Arete (Wimberry)
Sing a rainbow (Carrock)
Rouse's Wall (Carrock)
Northern soul (hepburn)
Suavito (Gardoms)
Poetry in Motion (Rylstone)
Matterhorn Arete (Almscliff)
Cocoa Team Special (Rylstone)
The Magician (Ravensheugh)
Superbloc (Moorside)
Yellow Desert Scream (St Bees)
Impailed (Dove Crag)
Red handed (Reiff in the woods)
Where The Wild Things Are (Lower Tosson)
Bloodsport (Shaftoe)
Isla de Encanta (Trowbarrow)
Preparation H (Hepburn)
Gypsy (Almscliff)
Crescent Arete (Stanage)
The Ace (Stanage)
Monkey Spanking (Cambusson)
J Mascis (Gouther)
Pump Up The Jam (Skye)
Clash Arete (Clashfarquar)
Mestizo (Dumbarton)
Outstanding (Ruthven)
Turbinal Nose (Glen Croe)
The Mission (Torridon)
Fungataus Ejaculatus (Doveholes) - can't find a picture of this
Magician's Nephew (Queens)
Rabbitstone Crack (Queens)
Yorkshire 8a (Rothly)
Tufa (Rothly)
Classic Arete (Shaftoe)
Magic Flute (Shaftoe) - can't find this
Dulcinea (Simonside)
California Screamin' (Ramshaw)
Chabal (Gorple)
That's pretty much all that's been mentioned. I'll order them at some other time. I've separated what I think are true King Lines but I'm only going on what Google shows me so am willing to stand corrected. Crescent Arete is overshadowed by its surroundings and so isn't quite King proud. So is Monkey Spanking. I ignored it originally because I remember it being much smaller. Sorry! The Joker I feel is just purer than The Ace, therefore more King.
You are on crack
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Nothing shitheap about this thread. Most inspiring lines in the UK. Boulders to dream of. For whatever reasons we are drawn to climb, these are the geological mermaids that sing to our fingers and leave us wrecked on our crashpads.
Surely there should be more from Ireland? Some beautiful lumps in this article: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3393 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3393)
What's Contact like up close? Looks good here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51210 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51210)
Wonderland sounds incredible too. Are there any pics knocking around?
Back in England, how about Scoop De Grace?
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Good point but Crescent arete just isn't King enough. Arc Royal is in the list (near the top).
you must be fuckin joking.... ignore the grade thing.. it's internationally great on every level
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Good point but Crescent arete just isn't King enough. Arc Royal is in the list (near the top).
you must be fuckin joking.... ignore the grade thing.. it's internationally great on every level
Crescent Arete is waaaay kinger than Ark Royal cos CA you actually climb the entirity of the feature.
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Nothing shitheap about this thread. Most inspiring lines in the UK. Boulders to dream of. For whatever reasons we are drawn to climb, these are the geological mermaids that sing to our fingers and leave us wrecked on our crashpads.
Surely there should be more from Ireland? Some beautiful lumps in this article: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3393 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3393)
What's Contact like up close? Looks good here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51210 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51210)
Wonderland sounds incredible too. Are there any pics knocking around?
Back in England, how about Scoop De Grace?
I held back from mentioning more Irish stuff, as I thought it was a more UK centric thing. But since you asked..... :)
Split arete (Polldoo Glen): I agree with Dave on this one, possibly the best problem in Ireland. Beautiful setting, beautiful boulder, perfect rock and climbs amazingly.
Contact (Carraigshouk): You're right R-Man, this is amazing. High curving blank arete on its own up on the hillside. King of all it surveys.
Solidarity (Glenmacnass): Yet another granite arete. Beautiful though.
Wonderland (Glendalough): Fantastic fridge-clamping roof line. No pic, but will wander up and get one at some point.
Spastic and Boombastic on the Boombastic block at Fair Head are both pretty king in terms of quality, size and setting, but I don't think they (or anything else I can think of up north) have the same sense of being a "line" as Carbide.
Leviathon (Portrane): Prettier in real life than it looks in pictures. Sweeping arch that climbs really well. Pity about the rock quality near the top.
I haven't been, but theres probably a King line on The Chief boulder in Derryrush. Thesiger?
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I haven't been, but theres probably a King line on The Chief boulder in Derryrush. Thesiger?
Dave lists Highawatta (below) as one of the best problems in Ireland in his guidebook. There's also a 7B thing on the prow to the left that looks pretty impressive, forget the details. It's certainly a stunning boulder. Sadly I merely discovered the boulder in the Connemara bog but did not have time to brush/ climb Highawatta or any of the other major lines.
(http://www.theshortspan.com/photo/chief.jpg)
For the ladies (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TCkFu7fuGAI/AAAAAAAAAl0/_bFQb6bc4oU/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_3178.JPG)
Paul mentioned some good stuff. Highawatta is nice, crux is slapping for the top. Wonderland is great and hard and all but I don't think it's a King Line. Too steep to really be a great prominent line. Bullet is a KL I would of said.
(http://www.theshortspan.com/photo/bullet-web.jpg)
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These two must be candidates :whistle:
(http://www.fotoaparat.cz/g/09/07/25/651252_4ef9d.jpg)
(http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1331/5166782775_cbefd4a90c_b.jpg)
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surely malcs one armer should be in there. it a classic line :smirk:
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http://8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=37643 (http://8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=37643) A contender
http://8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=37639 (http://8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=37639) A bad pic of chabal
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For what it's worth Crescent Arete IS a definite King Line and should be on the list...
Here's a contender from the Exmoor Coast...
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3126/2505449324_cdec6630ae.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25088302@N06/2505449324/)
Anarchy Arete (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25088302@N06/2505449324/#) by granticus27 (http://www.flickr.com/people/25088302@N06/), on Flickr
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King Lines
Malc's Arete (Torridon)
The Essence (Torridon)
King Kong (Dumbarton)
Red Dragon (Queens)
Arc Royal (Queens)
Queen Kong (Queens)
Requiem for a dream (East coast)
Groove armada (Lad stones)
Lanny Bassham (Rylestone)
Jason Roof (Crookrise)
Rhythm (Flasby Fell)
High Fidelity (Caley)
Not to be Taken Away (Stanage)
Careless Torque (Stanage)
The Joker (Stanage)
Horror Arete (Bridestones)
Brutal Arete (Stanton)
Brownian Motion (Chevin)
Will (Mallory Boulder)
Supercede (Hartland)
Purple Haze (Tintagel)
Carbide (Fair Head)
Split Arete (Polldoo Glen)
Scar Tissue (Callerhues)
The Eyes of silence (Callerhues)
A Moment of Clarity (Thorn Crag)
Hueco crack (St Bees)
Flying Arete (Almscliff)
The Young (Callally)
Cornelius (Churnet)
Good lines
Triggers (Binnian North Tor)
Ben's Groove sit (Caley)
Zoo York (Caley)
Colorado Dreaming (Tintagnel)
Voyager (Burbage)
Sabotage (Dumby)
Pool of Bethesda (Pass)
In Hell (Cave)
Cypher (slipstones)
Fish Arete (Wimberry)
Sing a rainbow (Carrock)
Rouse's Wall (Carrock)
Northern soul (hepburn)
Suavito (Gardoms)
Poetry in Motion (Rylstone)
Matterhorn Arete (Almscliff)
Cocoa Team Special (Rylstone)
The Magician (Ravensheugh)
Superbloc (Moorside)
Yellow Desert Scream (St Bees)
Impailed (Dove Crag)
Red handed (Reiff in the woods)
Where The Wild Things Are (Lower Tosson)
Bloodsport (Shaftoe)
Isla de Encanta (Trowbarrow)
Preparation H (Hepburn)
Gypsy (Almscliff)
Crescent Arete (Stanage)
The Ace (Stanage)
Monkey Spanking (Cambusson)
J Mascis (Gouther)
Pump Up The Jam (Skye)
Clash Arete (Clashfarquar)
Mestizo (Dumbarton)
Outstanding (Ruthven)
Turbinal Nose (Glen Croe)
The Mission (Torridon)
Fungataus Ejaculatus (Doveholes) - can't find a picture of this
Magician's Nephew (Queens)
Rabbitstone Crack (Queens)
Yorkshire 8a (Rothly)
Tufa (Rothly)
Classic Arete (Shaftoe)
Magic Flute (Shaftoe) - can't find this
Dulcinea (Simonside)
California Screamin' (Ramshaw)
Chabal (Gorple)
That's pretty much all that's been mentioned. I'll order them at some other time. I've separated what I think are true King Lines but I'm only going on what Google shows me so am willing to stand corrected. Crescent Arete is overshadowed by its surroundings and so isn't quite King proud. So is Monkey Spanking. I ignored it originally because I remember it being much smaller. Sorry! The Joker I feel is just purer than The Ace, therefore more King.
Surly after mentioning half the problems at Stanage i would think 'Brad Pit' should deserve to be a king line?
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For what it's worth Crescent Arete IS a definite King Line and should be on the list...
Here's a contender from the Exmoor Coast...
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3126/2505449324_cdec6630ae.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25088302@N06/2505449324/)
Anarchy Arete (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25088302@N06/2505449324/#) by granticus27 (http://www.flickr.com/people/25088302@N06/), on Flickr
That looks truly amazing. Love the A detail. Dare I ask how hard it is?
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That looks truly amazing. Love the A detail. Dare I ask how hard it is?
He who dares....
Just like Crescent Arete - it is a king line for mortals. Dave Westlake who did the FA gave it font 6a+ / E3 ish. (I reckoned 6b ish). It is adventure to get to and to get back from which just adds to the feel. I am only aware of 2 other people that have climbed it.
Nice article from Dave on SW highballs here: including some more King Line contenders from this corner. Nether Edge and Devon Sent - Bovey http://info.rockrun.com/articles/way-out-west-south-west-highballs.html (http://info.rockrun.com/articles/way-out-west-south-west-highballs.html) Woods, Rockabye - Cott Valley and The Groove - Clodgy all stand out.
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Surly after mentioning half the problems at Stanage i would think 'Brad Pit' should deserve to be a king line?
You forgot the winky smiley 'I'm obviously joking' face...