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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: The Sausage on February 11, 2009, 01:33:38 pm

Title: NNFN!!!!
Post by: The Sausage on February 11, 2009, 01:33:38 pm
Thought we should have a slightly less celebratory thread, for us to air our disappointments and glorious failures...

Went out this morning and spent an hour clearing snow and ice off the top of Sole Power. Came home to give it time to dry and get caffeined up, and now it's pissing down. And probably snowing in the peak. Great.

Still, the flapper's healing nicely.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 11, 2009, 01:49:44 pm
You're right as of 10 minutes ago there was a heavy wintery shower in Grindlford, it will be seriously wet by now.

Was it your chalk on the start we saw yesterday?

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 11, 2009, 01:51:54 pm
Watched a video on bleau.info, not only did I miss an obvious solution to the problem but I missed a f*cking start hold as well, no wonder it felt like the living end! NNFN!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: The Sausage on February 11, 2009, 01:57:07 pm
Was it your chalk on the start we saw yesterday?



Was up there saturday. T_B and Bob Smith did it, but I didn't. Was it dry yesterday? That's even more of a NNFN then, as went out Monday, but drips all down it, then beasted myself in the cellar as forecast for yesterday was pants. Double NNFN!!! Oh well, tomorrow it is then...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Mr Cat on February 11, 2009, 02:06:35 pm
I was hoping to go climbing tonight but my colds got worse...already missed it on monday too...  :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 11, 2009, 02:07:35 pm
Watched a video on bleau.info, not only did I miss an obvious solution to the problem but I missed a f*cking start hold as well, no wonder it felt like the living end! NNFN!

I did this with Sur-Prises except it wasn't a starting hold.  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 11, 2009, 02:12:22 pm
I guess its inevitable if you're not there in a large group or with somebody that has the numbers... I SHOULD have checked bleau.info though, schoolboy error!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 11, 2009, 02:15:07 pm
Was it your chalk on the start we saw yesterday?



Was up there saturday. T_B and Bob Smith did it, but I didn't. Was it dry yesterday? That's even more of a NNFN then, as went out Monday, but drips all down it, then beasted myself in the cellar as forecast for yesterday was pants. Double NNFN!!! Oh well, tomorrow it is then...

Sorry old chap but the second hold for your left hand (the good one) was dry, incidentally isn't the one on the left business lunch / spocks missing and sole power the thing on the right?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: The Sausage on February 11, 2009, 02:20:13 pm
Sole Power climbs the arete, using the arete for the right hand, and crimp and side pulls on left face for the left. I think business lunch uses those left hand holds for the right hand (i.e. is slightly left).

Anyway, if anyone fancies it tomorrow, PM me - the more (pads) the merrier, and there ain't no snow on top. Well, maybe a flurry.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 11, 2009, 02:28:17 pm
Dob a lob might be up for it Joe, we were meant to be out today but it didn't happen and he also told me he'd never been to Froggatt  :o
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: north_country_boy on February 11, 2009, 02:30:38 pm
Anyway, if anyone fancies it tomorrow, PM me - the more (pads) the merrier, and there ain't no snow on top. Well, maybe a flurry.

Yeah, likewise was meant to head out today with Dobbin and Ed Brown......may well be keen for tomorrow.....am though
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on February 11, 2009, 02:32:57 pm
Dob a lob might be up for it Joe, we were meant to be out today but it didn't happen and he also told me he'd never been to Froggatt  :o

never been to froggatt? you're shitting me.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 11, 2009, 02:41:03 pm
nope Dave. I tried to tell him that he might get a shock at the size of all of the highball 7a+'s...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 11, 2009, 02:53:06 pm
Fucking hell. Never been!?

 :off:

Paul is your sig quote from Jerry's book (if you've managed to get hold of it yet!) or straight from the squeaky one's mouth? Cos either way, it's blatantly wrong.

Malc did Magnetic when he was 17 and Hubble at 18 (it was over a year later I think). Still an amazing improvement but 8b to 8c+ rather than 7c+ to 8c+.

It's not like Jerry to exaggerate........
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on February 11, 2009, 03:14:40 pm
nope Dave. I tried to tell him that he might get a shock at the size of all of the highball 7a+'s...

fucking hell. And here's me thinking you can't get served in sheffield pubs unless you've done great slab.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cofe on February 11, 2009, 03:18:00 pm
Someone told me Dob had never been the Plantation either.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 11, 2009, 03:43:33 pm
Someone told me Dob had never topped anything out at the Plantation either.

Don't start that again.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JohnM on February 11, 2009, 03:48:48 pm
Back on topic!  I went to Ina's Rock to try Thumbelina on Sunday.  Did the crux second go but then turned into a complete pussy and wouldn't commit to the top section.  Got back to my car to find it had been broken into.  Strangely they left a down jacket and CD player and took the plastic sat nav stand and my small backpack which was full of chalk dust and used tape and a scuzzy old pair of climbing shoes.  Its the screw driver hole by the lock and the fact I have to get the locks changed (again) that really pisses me off!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: The Sausage on February 11, 2009, 03:57:56 pm
Watched a video on bleau.info, not only did I miss an obvious solution to the problem but I missed a f*cking start hold as well, no wonder it felt like the living end! NNFN!

I did this with Sur-Prises except it wasn't a starting hold.  :wall:

Did you do it in the end? I dropped into the second (small) undercling with my left, then went up with my right. Will have to go back and do the top move with my left for the proper Real Thing tick...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: butters on February 11, 2009, 04:13:34 pm
Its the screw driver hole by the lock and the fact I have to get the locks changed (again) that really pisses me off!

NNFN in more ways than one then. :(

Sounds like the method that someone tried unsuccessfully on my Golf so I am guessing that you are driving something similar. Thankfully they didn't get into mine but even so it still involved a trip to the scrap yard to get a new passenger door handle to replace the one they broke and a set of lock guards (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Door-Handle-Lock-Safety-Armour-Plate-Set-Golf-Mk3_W0QQitemZ310104700147QQihZ021QQcategoryZ9895QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262) from ebay to try and prevent them trying again\cover the hole they left.

bluebrad
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: grumpycrumpy on February 11, 2009, 04:18:56 pm
Best way to keep them out is to have steel plates welded behind the locks ..... I love to think of the poor little mites forearms jarring as they try to drive a screwdriver through 6mm of cold metal ....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: hairich on February 11, 2009, 04:39:16 pm
hi. i was gonna train at the works tonight then drive out to brush the snow off brad pit. i was hoping this would stop snowmelt run off and it would be dry sat and sun. do you lot think this will work. the forecast is good for rest of week.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on February 11, 2009, 04:50:45 pm
hi. i was gonna train at the works tonight then drive out to brush the snow off brad pit. i was hoping this would stop snowmelt run off and it would be dry sat and sun. do you lot think this will work. the forecast is good for rest of week.

(http://www.wastedoptimism.com/media/crystalball.jpg) maybe  :shrug:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 11, 2009, 05:44:31 pm
Chronic elbow injury b2b recurring shoulder injury b2b constant car problems  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AndiT on February 11, 2009, 05:55:49 pm
Back on topic!  I went to Ina's Rock to try Thumbelina on Sunday.  Did the crux second go but then turned into a complete pussy and wouldn't commit to the top section.  Got back to my car to find it had been broken into.  Strangely they left a down jacket and CD player and took the plastic sat nav stand and my small backpack which was full of chalk dust and used tape and a scuzzy old pair of climbing shoes.  Its the screw driver hole by the lock and the fact I have to get the locks changed (again) that really pisses me off!

That is seriously bad  :'(. I've never known a car get done there, must have been some pissed off scrotes who had driven to Alton Towers to find it shut and so decided to ruin someone elses day. Just a thought, but you could try contacting Alton Towers to se if they've got that area under surveillance?

I rememeber having my old Golf done at Brimham exactly the same way, they failed to break the lock so did a back quarter window instead, I only wish they'd done the window first.

Plus there's nowt wrong with being scared on Thumbelina, you aren't the first and won't be the last, my skin colour drained into greyscale when I did it! Better luck next time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: The Sausage on February 11, 2009, 05:58:28 pm
hi. i was gonna train at the works tonight then drive out to brush the snow off brad pit. i was hoping this would stop snowmelt run off and it would be dry sat and sun. do you lot think this will work. the forecast is good for rest of week.

Do it! Do it! Do it! If everybody gets out there and does a bit of brushing, we won't all be cramped into eatswood/Demon Wall Roof/Churnet.

Incidentally, forecast starting to look worse...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JohnM on February 11, 2009, 06:38:29 pm
Mine's a Peugot 306.  Exactly the same thing happened behind my house in Bangor a couple of years ago.  It seems a bit easy to do.  I might try and add a plate around the lock it sounds like a good idea.  I don't think there are any cctv cameras in the parking near the old railway.  My gf actually got back of a bike ride and saw two chavs getting back into a light blue Peugot 206 pulled up parallel to mine but it was probably too late by then.

I am well keen to get back on Thumbelina.  The moves and holds are awesome.  I was on my own for most of my session so next time i'll try and convince more people to go for more pads and moral support!
 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: willackers on February 11, 2009, 06:48:47 pm

I keep falling off the top of my project at Dumby and it keeps ripping chunks of skin out of my hand!!

Not cool!
 

:wall: :wall:

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AndiT on February 11, 2009, 07:47:46 pm

I am well keen to get back on Thumbelina.  The moves and holds are awesome.  I was on my own for most of my session so next time i'll try and convince more people to go for more pads and moral support!
 

Cool, let me know when you do. I'll join you and bring a pad and the dogs.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 11, 2009, 07:55:16 pm
Mine's a Peugeot 306. 

Worried now! So's mine...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F on February 11, 2009, 08:16:07 pm
Conehead at Malham. Walk through first crux, breeze second crux, fall of going for knarly pocket/crimp thing. Repeat until skin is gone.
 
Not to mention Overnite, or Grooved Arete, or Vogue, or Breakaway (Pex) or Why Me or any other of the countless 'projects' that I've successfully failed on repeatedly over the years  >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rainbow on February 11, 2009, 09:51:16 pm
Got back to my car to find it had been broken into.  Strangely they left a down jacket and CD player and took the plastic sat nav stand and my small backpack which was full of chalk dust and used tape and a scuzzy old pair of climbing shoes.  Its the screw driver hole by the lock and the fact I have to get the locks changed (again) that really pisses me off!

Feel for you matey, Had my Polo done same way up at Derwent & Curbar late 90's. Police did catch them both times so did get stuff back. Hope it doesn't put you off going down there. Tis an amazing chunk of stone.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on February 11, 2009, 09:57:51 pm
top section of caviar, on 3 occaisions. to be fair 2 times it was humid nick, the last time i was wet. but still slightly annoying.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 11, 2009, 11:07:25 pm
the last time i was wet.

Got a little too excited did we?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on February 11, 2009, 11:11:35 pm
i was wet as a result of the wet rock.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on February 11, 2009, 11:14:55 pm
the last time i was wet. but still slightly annoying.

 :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Carnage on February 12, 2009, 01:22:58 am
After months off with my shoulder I just got back into things and have now popped something in my knee. NNFN  :'(

Here comes another lay-off although at least I can use a hangboard this time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 12, 2009, 08:07:29 am

I did this with Sur-Prises except it wasn't a starting hold.  :wall:

Did you do it in the end? I dropped into the second (small) undercling with my left, then went up with my right. Will have to go back and do the top move with my left for the proper Real Thing tick...

 :wall:

Only had a few goes in the damp but was getting really close getting the egyptian in an reaching straight over for the sloper with LH. Never thought to bump LH into the higher undercut.......... >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatboySlimfast on February 12, 2009, 08:40:50 am
Last week or so, fell off the finishing JUG(yes fucking JUG!!!) on the lip traverse(aka Case of mistaken identity) I had a sport route pump so bad I couldnt hang onto the biggest hold on the problem.For some reason I find this SOOOOOO hard.

.
.
.
.
.
yeah cos  Im fat and old before anyone else says it
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on February 12, 2009, 10:59:06 am
i managed to tweak my back last week.it had improved enough to plan to go climbing on monday,however bending over to get a top out of the washer it went in to spasm again.so i did a bit of deadhanging and went for a walk.
result co codamol and anti spasmodics and the joys of sitting watching day time tv. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Scrimps on February 12, 2009, 12:56:33 pm
Its the screw driver hole by the lock and the fact I have to get the locks changed (again) that really pisses me off
Yes they're out there - theiving pikeys. Had my car bust into at the bus stop in Llanberis but there was nothing worth nicking (screw driver holes...) my mates's car was bust open at Sabot carpark, and the fool had left his passport in there, uh oh, had my car completely twatted after accident going to wimberry (they took the wheels the cd player the seats you name it). The only answer is jst to drive a shit heap with nothing in it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Ru on February 12, 2009, 01:02:46 pm
Evolution. Been within about a cm of the last jug. That year it was bad elbows that prevented me trying/training that bit harder, now its being a barrister. I've not given up hope yet though.

Another near miss was on Power Ranger. I decided to try it when the top wall was saturated as I thought it was the last chance of the year (it was, the whole lot was dripping next time I went). Crushed the crux, shook out and recovered on the head wall, pulled into easy climbing through the wetness, fought hard, slid off a crimp.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: jordysi on February 12, 2009, 01:08:20 pm
Quote
yeah cos  Im fat and old before anyone else says it
  :agree:

but why spoil our fun????  :whistle:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Scraggadoo on February 12, 2009, 01:14:54 pm
Managed to part 0.5cm of skin from my first joint on index finger using a chisel - and I'm talking edgeways here (from side of finger).  Trip to A&E followed, with steristrip and cleaning...

Needless to say, haven't been climbing for fuckin ages while I wait for the thing to heal completely (trip to font at end of month)...

NNFN  :wall:  >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: clm on February 16, 2009, 10:28:19 am
Rock atrocity - hanging the last hold and reaching up for the welsh finish and my right foot blew.  Not been back.
Winsome - 9970495070230430600000000000000000000000000000 goes and not there yet.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on February 17, 2009, 08:55:39 am
i managed to tweak my back last week.it had improved enough to plan to go climbing on monday,however bending over to get a top out of the washer it went in to spasm again.so i did a bit of deadhanging and went for a walk.
result co codamol and anti spasmodics and the joys of sitting watching day time tv. 
my back was feeling much better by sunday but rather than throwing caution to the wind and going climbing i did a session on the finger board.
result back feels great but my necks so stiff i can't turn my fucking head round.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: hairich on February 17, 2009, 01:39:08 pm
hi all. i know its a little off topic, but i have had 3 snow clearing sessions off the top of the pit. then it shitted out. if anyone goes out to the plantation and happens to have a look to see if its dry could they post as i am desperate to get back on it this weekend. cheers
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 21, 2009, 12:15:53 pm
NNFN. I have to be in work today, and its gorgeous outside... I want to go out and play. hmph
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Zods Beard on February 21, 2009, 04:14:56 pm
Burnt my sweet potato chips last night. Gutted.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Iesu on February 23, 2009, 01:37:14 pm
New Jerusalem at Caley. No No Fucking No! evil dirty little biting crimp. must have been a ginger kid in a previous life.

at least I've got 3 weeks of vicious Bishop crimpin to look forward to....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 23, 2009, 01:52:36 pm
My weight loss regime has gone wrong. Every Monday since the one before Christmas I have been lighter than the previous week, until this week. At today's weigh in at work I was 2lb heavier than last week. Flu and back pain have resulted in almost no proper exercise for 3 weeks - causing a return to weight gain.
Arse.
My motivation is slipping and Pancake day is tomorrow... and there is maple syrup, nutella and all sorts of lovely calorie packed badness in the cupboards...
 :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 23, 2009, 03:24:43 pm
UTFL!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Iesu on February 23, 2009, 03:35:20 pm
Ultimate Touch Football League?
http://www.utflfootball.com/ (http://www.utflfootball.com/)

sounds a bit erm, ? to me
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 23, 2009, 03:43:42 pm
(http://i41.tinypic.com/23i9d36.jpg)

"Use The Force Luke. Do not fear eat the stack of pancakes and Nutella. Resist turning to the Dark Side."
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on February 23, 2009, 04:31:16 pm
Quoting Star Wars is all very well, but by not eating pancakes he'll be going against Jesus.  Stoic batter resistance might please the man who gave us Jar Jar Binks... but only at the cost of pissing off Daddy "G".  My advice: there's always another day to diet, whereas a plague of blood will be a bitch to shift from the soft-furnishings. 

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on February 23, 2009, 04:43:13 pm
Quoting Star Wars is all very well, but by not eating pancakes he'll be going against Jesus.  Stoic batter resistance might please the man who gave us Jar Jar Binks... but only at the cost of pissing off Daddy "G".  My advice: there's always another day to diet, whereas a plague of blood will be a bitch to shift from the soft-furnishings. 



First time I've heard of Gaskin's dieting on pancakes  :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 23, 2009, 04:58:37 pm
That's as maybe but I happen to know that lagers is neither Gaskinite nor Christian. Therefore misquoting Star Wars is an attempt to appeal to his geeky principles and persuade him to resist the evil fatty power of flour and egg based badness.

My advice: there's always another day to diet


NOOOO!!! This is just what the weak, pancake loving side of him wants to hear. It's a slippery slope lagers, don't do it!

 :devangel:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on February 23, 2009, 06:11:15 pm
Fourth session on the Terrace today. If my left heel slips again I'm going upto the nearest sheep and punching it in the head. The inch layer of chalk on most of the holds didn't help either...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 23, 2009, 06:13:25 pm
To be honest; the lard-arsed calorie guzzling freaks who make up the majority of my personalities would be happy to drink full fat, gold top pancake batter mixed with sugar, chocolate and extra butter (and double cream) without even waiting for it to be cooked. The remaining minority of Lagers are all big fans of sci-fi and so this route of persuasion is quite promising...

help me pleeeeeeaaaasssse

I am worried that Moose's solution will involve eating pancakes tomorrow, but then eating fuck all for the next 40 or so days. Even though I am the new messiah, I'm not really up for suffering that much.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 23, 2009, 08:10:54 pm
UTFL!

Use the force, Lagers.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Plattsy on February 23, 2009, 08:19:58 pm
These aren't the pancakes you're looking for.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on February 23, 2009, 08:28:37 pm
That’s no moon, it’s a lagerstarfish.”
(http://images.somethingawful.com/mjolnir/images/cg09142004/Diet-Smegma.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on February 23, 2009, 08:57:16 pm
Oo tee dee!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 28, 2009, 11:57:50 am
Felt strong as fuck on The Works board yesterday. A problem that I could only just do the moves on last week went down first go and I started trying some harder things that felt distinctly possible. Then my tricep started hurting. Now my tricep still hurts a lot and I think I've done the ligaments in my left middle finger. Just when I was making decent gains. NO NO FUCKING NO!!!

 :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on March 03, 2009, 10:28:09 am
looking back, most of my injuries have been related to feeling really good during a session so I keep trying harder things untill something gives. NNFN indeed.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 03, 2009, 10:45:31 am
NNFN - three weeks after a YYFY  :furious:

I had officially banned myself from plastic bouldering, as I always end up injured.

The other day at the wall, I was getting bored of all the routes, so succumbed to the dark side and had a wee boulder. Pulled to hard on a nasty 1st joint crimp and now I have a sore A4 pulley. It's not too bad, so I'd imagine it should heal quite quick, but still.

NNFN.

I've got a big trad/alpine climbing trip in May and I CAN'T BE INJURED - I'd rather be piss-weak, so I'm going to have to lay off the climbing for a while!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chillax on March 07, 2009, 09:44:14 pm
Went out in Wicklow today, being hopelessly optimistic that stuff would be dry. Did one problem all day, everything was saturated. Went back to the car only to find some scum had smashed the back window and nicked the GPS I had hidden under the seat!

A major NNFN moment indeed!  >:( :furious:

n.b The one problem that did get done was a nice new arete I did with my mate John, that does begin to make up for it somewhat! And we cleaned a really cool project in time for the Bouldering Meet next weekend...who's coming?  :goodidea:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on March 07, 2009, 10:01:59 pm

That's harsh :(

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chillax on March 07, 2009, 10:18:11 pm
Just unpacked the car.  Turns out I jumped the gun a little, the GPS was safely stashed in the boot! All the dopey fuckers got away with was the charger lead to connect the GPS to the cigarette lighter! Retards. There was a couple of hundred quids worth of climbing and hiking gear in the boot, 20 cd's in the glove compartment and some loose change on the ground....any of which would have been more valuable than what they took. It might go against national pride, but I'm beginning to think Irishman jokes are pretty accurate! Utter fuckwits!  :wank:

They still broke my window though, the scum  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on March 07, 2009, 10:30:16 pm

Yay! :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chillax on March 07, 2009, 10:32:26 pm
Seeing it sitting there under a big mess of ropes made my day  :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 07, 2009, 11:19:48 pm
Fucking weather. Nice dump 'o' snow midweek, then cloudless windless days Thurs and Friday, then shit, warm, wet and windy today and tomorrow.
Surf was great Weds, Thurs and fruday too, then poor today and tomorrow.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 08, 2009, 10:18:10 am
You mean fucking work. Imagine the week you would have had 'self-employed'.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 08, 2009, 07:44:20 pm
Well it's a bit of both really. Sadly "self-employment" is a luxury out of reach at the moment, but given the way the oil price is going, things may change.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AndyR on March 09, 2009, 04:06:28 am
Went out in Wicklow today, being hopelessly optimistic that stuff would be dry. Did one problem all day, everything was saturated. Went back to the car only to find some scum had smashed the back window and nicked the GPS I had hidden under the seat!

A major NNFN moment indeed!  >:( :furious:

n.b The one problem that did get done was a nice new arete I did with my mate John, that does begin to make up for it somewhat! And we cleaned a really cool project in time for the Bouldering Meet next weekend...who's coming?  :goodidea:
Where did you go and which car park was it? I had my window done when I was out biking on Jouce.
Where was your arete?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on March 09, 2009, 09:58:53 am
I keep falling off the 'easy' moves before the jugs on Broken Heart. I don't know why either, really annoying. NNFN
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chillax on March 09, 2009, 10:29:54 am
Went out in Wicklow today, being hopelessly optimistic that stuff would be dry. Did one problem all day, everything was saturated. Went back to the car only to find some scum had smashed the back window and nicked the GPS I had hidden under the seat!

A major NNFN moment indeed!  >:( :furious:

n.b The one problem that did get done was a nice new arete I did with my mate John, that does begin to make up for it somewhat! And we cleaned a really cool project in time for the Bouldering Meet next weekend...who's coming?  :goodidea:
Where did you go and which car park was it? I had my window done when I was out biking on Jouce.
Where was your arete?

Lough Bray, it was parked in the little quarry beside the road. It was the left hand arete on that boulder past the car park above Glenmacnass waterfall. The one with the slopey project going up the middle. Very nice problem. First ascent apparently. We decided to call it Smash 'n Grab  :P
 Heading back to try the project at the meet next weekend.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: account_inactive on March 09, 2009, 03:30:20 pm
Just fell off the finishing jug on Ben's roof. Punter
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AndyR on March 09, 2009, 04:14:25 pm
Went out in Wicklow today, being hopelessly optimistic that stuff would be dry. Did one problem all day, everything was saturated. Went back to the car only to find some scum had smashed the back window and nicked the GPS I had hidden under the seat!

A major NNFN moment indeed!  >:( :furious:

n.b The one problem that did get done was a nice new arete I did with my mate John, that does begin to make up for it somewhat! And we cleaned a really cool project in time for the Bouldering Meet next weekend...who's coming?  :goodidea:
Where did you go and which car park was it? I had my window done when I was out biking on Jouce.
Where was your arete?

Lough Bray, it was parked in the little quarry beside the road. It was the left hand arete on that boulder past the car park above Glenmacnass waterfall. The one with the slopey project going up the middle. Very nice problem. First ascent apparently. We decided to call it Smash 'n Grab  :P
 Heading back to try the project at the meet next weekend.
Oh that sucks - the thieving bastards from tallaghfornia seem to frequent that car park quite a lot. Are the boulders still clean at Lough Bray? I went through quite a few brushes cleaning that place off........
I think I know the boulder you mean above glenmac waterfall - some nice rock in that area.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chillax on March 09, 2009, 04:30:31 pm
Some very nice rock indeed! I think I'll be going on some exploratory jaunts up there in the near future. More info and pics on the interblog (link below). Can't seem to link pics from blogger for some reason...

Are the boulders still clean at Lough Bray? I went through quite a few brushes cleaning that place off........

You must have done a damn good job of cleaning them! They were spotless when I was there! Except for a couple of things that might still go... :) Pity everything was soaked though. Are you still living in Ireland or moved on to pastures new? And if you are living in Ireland, have I met you?  :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AndyR on March 09, 2009, 09:50:55 pm

You must have done a damn good job of cleaning them! They were spotless when I was there! Except for a couple of things that might still go... :) Pity everything was soaked though. Are you still living in Ireland or moved on to pastures new? And if you are living in Ireland, have I met you?  :-\

Nope  - I live in Vancouver now - I spent many weekends scrubbing boulders around wicklow when I lived in dublin.

Cheers,
Andy
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: hairich on March 09, 2009, 10:02:10 pm
you will crush it next time Dylan.

typical.get 4 days off work and get a lurg
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: abarro81 on March 09, 2009, 10:47:47 pm
Just fell off the finishing jug on Ben's roof. Punter

Was the right hand side (powerband etc) still in good condition today?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chillax on March 09, 2009, 11:54:21 pm

You must have done a damn good job of cleaning them! They were spotless when I was there! Except for a couple of things that might still go... :) Pity everything was soaked though. Are you still living in Ireland or moved on to pastures new? And if you are living in Ireland, have I met you?  :-\

Nope  - I live in Vancouver now - I spent many weekends scrubbing boulders around wicklow when I lived in dublin.

Cheers,
Andy

Cool. All I can say is thank you really! I'm planning on spending many weekends like that myself. Theres always plenty of potential around, and now that Pierre's moved away more of us have to start exploring! ;D

If you're ever back, giz a bell and we can go climbing.

Paul
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Somebody's Fool on March 12, 2009, 10:25:54 pm
No no fucking not again!

Looks like my tale of being back in the saddle was a rouse. Would appear i was only grooming the mane.

Looking good for the weekend though!

And

No no fucking no will i never learn to sign out of other peoples computers.
 
I'm off to send some pm's from Si's, erm my account

Any one for rings?


 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 13, 2009, 09:20:02 am
Another weekend approaches. Forecast wet, mild and windy. Hoofuckingrah. And it's been really noce the last couple of days (at least I managed an hour down Bolsheugh last night, even if I sucked).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 13, 2009, 11:07:48 pm
Yesterday got roasted on the leading wall. Cool. Then pulled up, lights on in Tesco car park to text with a new phone I don't really understand. Lights on, car battery out. Not so cool. Cashless, on way in stopped to withdraw £50. Tired and a bit flustered I went inside for help - with card but no money  :wall:
It's just registered on my account. There, the whole world knows I'm a numpty (what? you knew that already? Don't tell my other half).To whoever came up to the machine after me> :wank:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on March 14, 2009, 08:56:21 pm
Fell off last move on Lou Ferrino before very nearly blacking out.
Very NNFN!
Need to get fitter

Some more NNFN from Dr Pinch
http://www.vimeo.com/3649675 (http://www.vimeo.com/3649675)

Its all beans in the bank tho
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 14, 2009, 09:00:27 pm
Fell off last move on Lou Ferrino before very nearly blacking out.
Very NNFN!
Need to get fitter

That was close on Lou!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JohnM on March 15, 2009, 12:55:08 am
I was at the cave today and that was real close but its a familiar Lou Ferrino redpoint story that I know all to well!  Should be in the bag next time!  As for the Rock Attrocity vid thats the most solid i've ever seen anyone on it without finishing it, but I think he should cut his nails!  My NNFN is that I realised I can't go out drinking and have a decent climbing session the next day anymore!  My worst cave sesh ever!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 17, 2009, 05:30:25 pm
Got to the last move on iron man today, which i normally don't fall off. Greased right off it. Robbed! NNFN!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Monolith on March 17, 2009, 06:50:43 pm
Dr Pinch, I feel your pain. I did that many times on the trot after feeling like I was walking in the park on the rest of it. Annoyingly I then managed to take too much time off to get back to there (probably).I think there should be a fucking club for RA last move greasers.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on March 17, 2009, 07:17:28 pm
I recon thats a big club
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 17, 2009, 07:21:57 pm
I recon thats a big club

I don't know many people who don't have an epic on last move of RA. Be it from In Hell/Pit Of Hell/Wobbly jug start, etc etc!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Monolith on March 17, 2009, 07:28:47 pm
Doylo can devote his spare room to RA siegers in the new dudno gaff. Make a tidy sum renting that out to the greasers club.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on March 17, 2009, 08:06:44 pm
no greasers in my house please, apart from female 30 stoners
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 18, 2009, 04:32:44 pm
I think there should be a fucking club for RA last move greasers.

A greaser's "fucking club" and at Doyle's house?! You sick bastards.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 19, 2009, 09:40:38 pm
no greasers in my house please, apart from female 30 stoners

"...I like a girl who's 46 stone, imploding, sweating and shitting in her clothes..."
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: TobyD on March 20, 2009, 02:20:05 pm
1) spend winter training, get significantly stronger, manage to dodge injury
2) get out a bit early season and get some stuff wired in shitty conditions
3) mint weather arrives, conditions amazing, beautiful sunshine....

and i'd struggle with the f*cking Kilnsey walk in, let alone climbing anything at all at the moment due to nasty knee infection and associated bullsh*t ..... NOOOOOOOOOOO!  :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2009, 07:47:30 pm
Not climbing related, but had a good blast round kirkhill today, good muddy technical rooty stuff all day. Decided to have a "quick blast" round bikepark, and landed badly off a tabletop and now have bloody holes in elbow and arse. And elbow pads were in car. Will make wearing awetsuit intersting, and climbing painful. I thnk i should stay on the ground.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on March 24, 2009, 10:58:16 pm
did broken heart to the jug, dropped off, then took a few goes trying to do bust lip? did that, thought great its in the bag.
Failied to do broken heart start again. NNFN
next session hopefully
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Strife on March 29, 2009, 09:57:10 am
Stupid soft-tissue infection in finger. I can't even skate, let alone climb. NNFN!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on March 29, 2009, 08:11:24 pm
I can't even skate, let alone climb. NNFN!
(http://pro.corbis.com/images/WL010757.jpg?size=67&uid=%7B970CFDD7-BA1E-49C6-BBBE-ED1F2CEACA60%7D)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oli on April 02, 2009, 05:54:17 pm
Great trip to font, then managed to completely fuck a ring finger pulley on Fleur de Rhum at the end of the last day. What makes it even worse is;
a) Some friends crushed it and I didn't
b) I nearly flashed it before consigning myself to weeks/months of being a punter or doing everything with front two...

 :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 02, 2009, 08:13:24 pm
shit, get a beastmaker oli and work front two and mono's. this can be turned around so you can post again on the yyfy
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oli on April 02, 2009, 08:41:53 pm
I think that's the conclusion that I've come to as well. Lots of rest and attempting to become a front two monster,
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 02, 2009, 08:56:29 pm
take it steady, watch your tendons ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 13, 2009, 08:11:42 pm
Oli :commiserations, tho. you do have my congrats on this salient fact: you hurt yourself  AT THE END of the trip, rather than THREE DAYS BEFORE IT, as I did a fortnight ago.  :oops:
Believe me, belaying your mates one-handed at El Chorro isn't all it's cracked up to be. Also fingers, whilst a bugger don't prevent you from running, swimming, puntering on jugs etc. Trashed rotator-cuffs however, do. Fortunately this hasn't in any way impaired my capacity to consume calorie-laden-cake/lard ...and BEER
So it's not all bad news... :beer2:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: butters on April 14, 2009, 05:25:53 pm
I fell off the jug of Strawberries at Curbar today - I had my bloody great mitt on the thing (after lipping it a few goes before) and I just fell off - bollocks!!  :'(

The upside of this miserable failure was that it gave me a good reason to do a bit of ranting and kick a few wood chips about so it wasn't a total waste of a day but I thought that I was finally going to crack my first 6B. Still at least I now I can do it now - I just have to not fall off!

bluebrad
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 14, 2009, 10:38:15 pm
Were you using Sloper's helpful beta??
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: butters on April 15, 2009, 10:24:11 am
I was using Sloper's helpful beta which is actually the same as Duncan's helpful beta so either Sloper has successfully sandbagged two different people with the same duff beta or he actually knows what he is talking about in this case.  ;)

bluebrad
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 15, 2009, 10:41:01 am
Mine is the one true path punter.

I might however have showed Fiend the shit beta on Strawberries for a laugh.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 15, 2009, 11:01:21 am
How can you have shit beta for "crimp the side of the crack really hard and stand up"?  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 15, 2009, 11:04:03 am
Sloper can have shit beta for anything!!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on April 15, 2009, 11:22:21 am
How can you have shit beta for "crimp the side of the crack really hard and stand up"?  ;)

That's Sloper's beta for Play Hard.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 15, 2009, 11:49:20 am
How can you have shit beta for "crimp the side of the crack really hard and stand up"?  ;)

Easy, instead of going up for the crack with your left hand go up with your right first to the poor sloper and then up with your left, this then allows you to bring your right foot up and then stand up on it.  A poor vaariant but a good sequence for a sandbag.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 15, 2009, 11:52:10 am
What sort of idiot would fall for that?

I might however have showed Fiend the shit beta on Strawberries for a laugh.

Ah, I get you now.  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 15, 2009, 01:07:59 pm
Piss off, I did Strawberries (by the easiest way), before I'd even heard of "Sloper" or "Jaspersharpe" :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 15, 2009, 02:01:38 pm
Piss off, I did Strawberries (by the easiest way), before I'd even heard of "Sloper" or "Jaspersharpe" :P

Is that when god discovered excuses?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Scraggadoo on April 17, 2009, 06:10:06 pm
Unbelievable.  Landed awkwardly on my ankle (very awkwardly) and result is a tennis ball ankle.  Fuck, NNFN.   >:(

Had a whole weekend of climbing planned too.  Looks like  :alky: :beer1: :pissed: for me.  Drown my sorrows, weather's too good to be missing out.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Scraggadoo on April 23, 2009, 09:11:24 pm
Un-fucking-believable.  Now my car's going tits up on me.  Still a week away from climbing.  NNFN.

Big plasticky thing in middle of road flew up into my front bumper, nice little thump.  Didn't hear any noises afterwards, thought it was ok so carried on.  Is it fuck.  Front bumper in bits, at least it's still hanging on to my car.  What's more, was on way to garage to sort out tracking due to scrubbing on a wheel - turned out to be ok so it's something else, got me and the mechanics stumped.  Weekend planned to strip down suspension and rebuild.

And to top it all off...  Exhaust has blown.  Fucking vauxhalls.  Steer clear of them.  Of course, if you need advice on an astra just fire away.  Every answer will be retaliated with a "NNFN, ain't worth the bother".  Lucky is my middle name(!)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Averageman on April 23, 2009, 09:52:09 pm
Moving out at the end of the month, the end of a 14 year relationship, NNFN, or should it be  YYFY.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on April 23, 2009, 10:21:56 pm
Moving out at the end of the month, the end of a 14 year relationship, NNFN, or should it be  YYFY.

Bummer man, hope it's all OK - I've been through that same shit recently. On the plus side, my lead and bouldering grades jumped dramatically as a result, and I got to do a lot more more  :beer1:  :alky: and  :shag: as well!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 24, 2009, 09:10:37 am
Poor Scraggooboo. I've had 1 billion (approx) car issues in the last 4 months, it's not good. So important to the climbing lifestyle and so demoralising when they go wrong  >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on April 26, 2009, 05:25:22 pm
I went up to try New Rose again today.  Unusually, I warmed up well and taped up.
1st go slapped the right hand to the break with left foot flagging.
2nd go I was going to put the left foot on a decent hold, this was THE go, prepare to crush.

This is the video of that attempt.  Make sue you have sound on so you can hear that A2 go  :'(

http://www.vimeo.com/4338955 (http://www.vimeo.com/4338955)



I am Jack's raging sense of pissedoffedness.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: neil h on April 26, 2009, 05:52:04 pm
shit man  :o
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on April 26, 2009, 06:13:36 pm

This is the video of that attempt.  Make sue you have sound on so you can hear that A2 go  :'(

I am Jack's raging sense of pissedoffedness.

Ouch!!  :o  Winced when i heard that. feeling your pain mate.....well not in a literal sense..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Monolith on April 26, 2009, 06:43:05 pm
Poor bastard. I know the feeling well. Tore mine on Pill Box wall and it sounded like tearing a piece of carpet. Never forget it, it was vile. Hit the weights for now eh?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on April 26, 2009, 06:45:00 pm
Hit the wine for now eh?

I certainly am <hic>  :alky:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: saltbeef on April 26, 2009, 06:54:31 pm
boo. bloody finger injuries.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on April 26, 2009, 08:16:32 pm
Hit the wine for now eh?

I certainly am <hic>  :alky:

Is that your way of getting round the one bottle of beer a night diet?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on April 26, 2009, 10:21:00 pm
GCW's one beer a night diet was not as first thought....
(http://media.ebaumsworld.com/picture/dan_richard13/Giant_Beer_Glass.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on April 26, 2009, 10:23:06 pm
Shit, Jordan's let go these days...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 26, 2009, 10:36:50 pm
No, GCW, that did not sound good. Best of luck with your rehab, till then, keep the damn thing hydrated - it's always worked for me :beer2:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on April 27, 2009, 01:38:19 pm
Looking good today.  Now, where's the ice.....

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Finger.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on April 27, 2009, 01:43:38 pm
Why have you got one tanned hand and one pale hand? have you been standing with lincoln on your right or something?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 27, 2009, 01:55:03 pm
Does the sun shine out of his arse then?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 27, 2009, 05:10:48 pm
have you been standing with lincoln on your right or something?

 :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Averageman on April 27, 2009, 09:23:57 pm
work slopers and keep of the crimps for a while.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on April 27, 2009, 09:26:52 pm
work Sloper's

Is this the new rehab regime?  I don't like the sound of it  :wank:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Averageman on April 27, 2009, 09:42:35 pm
you can wear gloves  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 27, 2009, 10:12:13 pm
Nitrile only please i have a latex sensitivity issue.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on April 27, 2009, 10:20:13 pm
My BlackStallion suit has zips to leave sensitive areas be. I can dust it off, just say the word.
(http://www.altnation.com/forums/attachments/junk-talk/58215d1146435710-gimp-suit-blackstallion.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 27, 2009, 10:29:14 pm
I'll be my little pony has had a re brand.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on April 27, 2009, 10:31:41 pm
My BlackStallion suit has zips to leave sensitive areas be. I can dust it off, just say the word.
(http://www.altnation.com/forums/attachments/junk-talk/58215d1146435710-gimp-suit-blackstallion.jpg)

Very definitely NSFW. (http://www.myhorsecock.com/)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: butters on April 27, 2009, 10:33:58 pm
Stalloni you disturbed mofo - am I the only one who thinks that should the contents of your Google Cache ever be investigated you are liable to be signing on some sort of government register for years to come?  ;)

bluebrad

PS. Add GCW to that list as well...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on April 27, 2009, 10:37:20 pm
Don't blame me, you clicked on it you sicko.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: butters on April 27, 2009, 10:44:34 pm
Don't blame me, you clicked on it you sicko.

I just hovered over it to see what it linked to thankfully...

bluebrad
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on April 27, 2009, 10:49:10 pm
Ah, so you misunderstood.  It's a website created by the Christians Of Caldwell, Kentucky (COCK for short).  They have a website for their horse riding club, myhorseCOCK.

See, you and your dirty mind  :o
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on April 27, 2009, 11:24:27 pm
How do you explain the "animal assfucking" on their homepage then?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on April 27, 2009, 11:25:46 pm
Dunno.  You tell us, beastiality student perv  >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: c3po on April 28, 2009, 10:34:40 am
Checkout the little one finger pull up, surely he should have popped an A2 by now!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54VtaVbJdLo&feature=rec-HM-r2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54VtaVbJdLo&feature=rec-HM-r2)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: LucyB on May 08, 2009, 10:29:55 am
Back on topic:

NNFN! We're not going to melloblocco cos the weather looks pants. It would've been an expensive trip just to sit in a bar with a bored baby looking at the rain.

 :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on May 08, 2009, 08:18:09 pm
Listening to Percy about how much he'd be making if the rain was in the Peak...... ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on May 10, 2009, 06:34:59 pm
NNFN - just had another frustrating session on Breakfast this afternoon.

Have returned home with my tail between my legs, and only scuffed up skin to show for it. DAMMMMMIT!!

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on May 10, 2009, 07:20:25 pm
I found  that frustrating when I did it too, pretty tricky to find a sequence that works.

I think I can remember the moves though, just shout if you'd like beta.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 10, 2009, 07:44:10 pm
It's quite a solid V5. I found the trick was to have good conditions, bear down on the arete, and be very careful slowly sliding the heel-toe out.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on May 10, 2009, 07:56:25 pm
I found that udging up into a crossed-hands arrangement on the arete helped me resist the barn-door when I released the heel-toe: RH on lowest sidepull, LH on highest (pinching thumb around arete). 

If that helps, don't then do what I did: celebrate by falling from a clearly damp 'The Nose' (6 months later and still got Golfer's Elbow).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on May 10, 2009, 08:03:07 pm
It's quite a solid V5. I found the trick was to have good conditions, bear down on the arete, and be very careful slowly sliding the heel-toe out.

Cheers - I think that if I'm being honest it might be ability rather than beta on this one!

I was trying the beta I'd been given in a thread I started ages ago: RF heel-toe, RH bear down on small crimp / bump LF up the ramp thing to get LH on the good crimp round the arete and then spin off releasing the heel-toe.

I then resorted to trying a crazy method that seemed to have promise, heel-toe as before but work RH onto the good crimp round the arete (left pinching the arete)...could get the heel-toe out in control and actually get my LF round the arete, but then didn't have anywhere to put my LH!

Think I'd have been better off accepting Dobbin's call and going to Rubicon instead...


Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on May 10, 2009, 08:10:56 pm

I then resorted to trying a crazy method that seemed to have promise, heel-toe as before but work RH onto the good crimp round the arete (left pinching the arete)...could get the heel-toe out in control and actually get my LF round the arete, but then didn't have anywhere to put my LH!


This is what I did, then from LF around the arete, cross LH over to the top hold as Moose suggests, bring RF onto one of the good holds on the face, RH to somewhere around the LH, then pop.


It's quite a solid V5. I found the trick was to have good conditions, bear down on the arete, and be very careful slowly sliding the heel-toe out.

I thought it worth 7a, harder than The Nose for me.


Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on May 10, 2009, 09:59:26 pm

I then resorted to trying a crazy method that seemed to have promise, heel-toe as before but work RH onto the good crimp round the arete (left pinching the arete)...could get the heel-toe out in control and actually get my LF round the arete, but then didn't have anywhere to put my LH!


This is what I did, then from LF around the arete, cross LH over to the top hold as Moose suggests, bring RF onto one of the good holds on the face, RH to somewhere around the LH, then pop.


It's quite a solid V5. I found the trick was to have good conditions, bear down on the arete, and be very careful slowly sliding the heel-toe out.

I thought it worth 7a, harder than The Nose for me.


I think this is the beta that's gonna work best for me - if we get a cool / not humid evening I reckon I'll head back out and get on it again. I've only got a week and a bit until I'm no longer a Sheffield resident, so I've got to knock it off before then!

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 11, 2009, 09:29:17 pm
Rinsing Easterlies tonight dude I hope you were out.

It's two grades easier than The Nose for the more "compact" gentlemen.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on May 11, 2009, 09:59:46 pm
Rinsing Easterlies tonight dude I hope you were out.


Sadly not - spent the day at The Roaches getting hammered by said easterlies at the top of routes!

On the plus side, I did Valkyrie - found the second pitch a bit weird / (h)airy but what a quality route!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on May 12, 2009, 10:33:26 am
It's two grades easier than The Nose for the more "compact" gentlemen.

One of us must be doing something wrong and if you think The Nose is 7a+ it must be you (not sure if I'm supposed to insert a smiley of some kind here to indicate this is a light-hearted gesture not intended to cause offence).  You must need the right beta, try this:

http://www.vimeo.com/4300091 (http://www.vimeo.com/4300091)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: butters on May 12, 2009, 11:36:56 am
It's two grades easier than The Nose for the more "compact" gentlemen.

One of us must be doing something wrong and if you think The Nose is 7a+ it must be you (not sure if I'm supposed to insert a smiley of some kind here to indicate this is a light-hearted gesture not intended to cause offence).  You must need the right beta, try this:


I seem to remember that Fiend had extensive (self produced) beta produced over many visits for The Nose and that it felt harder than the given grade due to it being (for someone of Fiends stature) a height dependant problem as hinted at by the "more compact gentleman" reference.

bluebrad 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 12, 2009, 12:01:16 pm
Nai, correct, my method was harder than that, I did see that video on the Nose thread already. I will grant you that assuming that beta works for all shorties, then The Nose will merely be a hard V6, and Breakfast a middling V5, so not two grades difference.

Another cool easterly tonight before the rain comes in tomorrow, get to it! The trick with Breakfast is about dragging the right foot out - don't just release it but scrape it along the rock to stop the swing.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 12, 2009, 12:15:14 pm
So close to a puntering there Fiend. This is The Peak, keep your filthy V grades to yourself.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on May 12, 2009, 07:04:32 pm
I also think the nose is 7a+, especially when problems like gorilla, early doors and trackside get 7a. harder than all those for me.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: abarro81 on May 12, 2009, 07:20:27 pm
Well I think breakfast's harder than the nose. So there. (For reference, I lank both of them)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on May 12, 2009, 07:38:01 pm
anyway, more NNFN
Lost my best sunglasses the other day, think they fell out my bag when getting off the plane.
Also 10 days in the sun doing nothing and my fingers hurt just as much as they did before
NNFN all round
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on May 12, 2009, 07:39:47 pm
I also think the nose is 7a+, especially when problems like gorilla, early doors and trackside get 7a. harder than all those for me.

I agree.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on May 12, 2009, 07:46:40 pm
I also think the nose is 7a+, especially when problems like gorilla, early doors and trackside get 7a. harder than all those for me.

I agree.

Really? I reckon Trackside is piss, as is The Nose, but GW and ED are nails. A Power Endurance thing perchance?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on May 12, 2009, 08:17:04 pm
Another session, more lost skin but no result...arse. On one attempt I actually got the upper crimps in my hands with heel round the arete, but then dropped it.

Think I might have to write this one off as one I'm not going to manage. Yet.




Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on May 12, 2009, 08:36:55 pm
I think it was Nai who suggested a sequence very similar to mine: Once stood up with RH on good crimp, release RF from Heel-Toe, but move it left, and get a good Toe Hook in the same break, cross LH over RH to pinch arete, bump RH into crimp on arete right beside LH, RF on starting handhold, slap top with RH.

One trick I've learned though, is when the RH is on the good crimp, I lean over and around the arete, which allows me to move my RF easily, to wherever I want.

Dunno if this will help, or confuse, but I thought I'd add it anyway.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on May 12, 2009, 09:07:12 pm
Seeing as the nose is todays hot topic thought I'd share my NFNNNFN (No Fucking Nose No No Fucking NO) moment...
Went up and had a go yesterday as I really should have done this by now and pissed what I thought was the hard bit, went a bit too far left at the top and promptly ran out of holds leaving me firmly ensconsed on the mat with a sore ankle and groin (the groin was due to spring voyage and sone deicidedly bunched upness getting the slope and rail thing - not so much as a nnfn that,  more an "ouch but that might actually go in the cold" - O.B.T.M.A.G.I.T.C!). Arse!   
 :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 12, 2009, 10:02:33 pm
I also think the nose is 7a+, especially when problems like gorilla, early doors and trackside get 7a. harder than all those for me.

I agree.

Really? I reckon Trackside is piss, as is The Nose, but GW and ED are nails. A Power Endurance thing perchance?

There is definitely some sort of lank - weakness - inability to grade correlation going on somewhere, but I have no idea where Jim's gut or nai's shortyz skillz factor into it....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on May 12, 2009, 10:06:21 pm
ED is not really power endurance, more technique and the ability to deal with well, er slopers (not that people would accept more than one Sloper)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Houdini on May 12, 2009, 11:10:52 pm
Everything on that boulder is pure beginners material, excluding that hellish one-move wonder slab thing up the center of the front face.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 13, 2009, 08:27:08 am
Everything on that boulder is dogshit morelike. Why GW is mentioned as some sort of classic problem I have no idea. Lagers showed me this scummy pit with a sandy chossbag snappy pile of shit traverse on horrible holds and I thought he was taking the piss at first. I fell off a couple of times showing zero enthusiasm to actually try to climb the thing and left, vowing never to return. Trackside and in particular The Nose on the other hand are excellent problems.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 13, 2009, 08:58:12 am
Gorilla Warfare is ace. It's not the most inspiring setting (especially when there are fucking hordes of puerile tickers there), but it is a great problem, powerful, sustained, yet reasonable, with a bit of committment required too, plus a fairly good line of weakness. Good to have power bouldering at that sort of middling standard on the grit too.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 13, 2009, 10:41:49 am
Or in other words.....dogshit.

To each their own.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 13, 2009, 10:48:02 am
....says the Peak limestone climber  ::) ::) ::)

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 13, 2009, 11:52:54 am
Yes, says the Peak limestone climber. In fact this is my point entirely. Gritstone is (rightly) famous for top quality bouldering and then this bag of shit is held up as an example of one of the best problems. Then people have the cheek to slag the quality of the lime! What a joke.

lol   :-*
 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 13, 2009, 12:00:41 pm
Has anyone held this up as one of the best problems on grit? Have they fuck.

Crap it may be, but if you've done anything other than urinate at Minus ten you need to go find a mirror and take a good long look at yourself.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 13, 2009, 12:03:36 pm
Glad you agree JB.  ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cofe on May 13, 2009, 12:09:23 pm
I'd say GW is a good grit prob, as is ED. those slopers are real nice, and I like the topouts. There's a lot shitter grit probs out there. So there.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 13, 2009, 12:19:03 pm
I'm no fan of traverses, but Hurricane is a great move. The block deserves to exist just for that. Plus the end of Early Doors makes a great up problem, and the aretes behind are great easy highballs. We're hardly talking Tom's roof here are we?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Scouse D on May 13, 2009, 12:20:21 pm
I like GW too. Nice holds; powerful; longer than most problems; a top out (unlike most on limestone) and ultimately very satisfying.
Early Doors is also a fantastic problem.
Hurricane is also a fantastic problem.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cofe on May 13, 2009, 12:21:10 pm
and who could forget Humpin'...

I imagine Hurricance is a great prob too...   ::)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 13, 2009, 12:27:08 pm
Bunch of gays. You can keep your pit.  :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cofe on May 13, 2009, 12:42:46 pm
i just hope you've learnt your lesson.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 13, 2009, 12:46:56 pm
Jasper just got owned  :great:


P.S. I've gone for a dump at Minus Ten does that count??
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 13, 2009, 12:50:30 pm
i just hope you've learnt your lesson.

Indeed I have.

That some people have no taste.

Although I knew that already.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cofe on May 13, 2009, 12:55:43 pm
 ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on May 22, 2009, 09:18:09 am
NNFN!!!  Why did I move left at the top of trying to lead Right Unconquerable for the first time last night and ignore the shouts of "Its easier on the right"  :wall: :wall: :wall:

Still, happy to have led it and will be going back to do it cleanly, although next time I'll warm up on something else first instead of jumping straight on it  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 22, 2009, 10:02:53 am
It's best direct shurely??

Or better and easier, if you can jam, tackled by the other crack a few metres left  :whistle:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on May 22, 2009, 10:13:31 am
Direct if you're in the right place to start with!  Didn't want to scuttle left into the wide crack, but hadn't gone far enough right to be in the correct place.

Friend led Left afterwards, which I thought was easier than Righ.  Then did a weird route called Vogon which goes up Monday Blue (the arete on the right), then traverses across the break at 2/3rds height to finish up Little Unconquerable.  The reason for the name only dawned on me this morning (and its very apt  :P).  Namenlos to warm down which was nice, so a good evening all in all really, just annoying I didn't get Right clean.

Oh yeah, having just topped out Left heard a "Help!" from a german guy who was stuck at the top of Right, went round and he was plastered to the top and wanted pulling over.  Asked him where his last piece of gear was, but couldn't get a clear answer so helped him out.  Should have let him take the fall though as he had a cam in the break under the top.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 22, 2009, 10:44:47 am
I scuttled left into the wide crack the first time I did it. Seemed like the logical exit at the time, what with wilting arms an' all. And I stand by my tick.

Namenlos is great isn't it. I really like Monday Blue too, I've never understood why the Little Unc has got 'a reputation' though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 22, 2009, 11:05:01 am
Then did a weird route called Vogon which goes up Monday Blue (the arete on the right), then traverses across the break at 2/3rds height to finish up Little Unconquerable.  The reason for the name only dawned on me this morning (and its very apt  :P). 

Pray tell?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on May 22, 2009, 11:19:02 am
Then did a weird route called Vogon which goes up Monday Blue (the arete on the right), then traverses across the break at 2/3rds height to finish up Little Unconquerable.  The reason for the name only dawned on me this morning (and its very apt  :P). 

Pray tell?

Vogons are the aliens in Hitchikers Guide to the Galaxy that plough through the middle of solar systems to make the Intergalactic Highway (at least in the first book thats what they're doing).

If you climbed this route on a weekend day you'd be pissing off anyone who wanted to do Left or Right Unconquerable (both *** classics) and also Monday Blue and Little Unconquerable.

Which all in all I thought was therefore quite an appropriate name.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 22, 2009, 11:23:29 am
Then did a weird route called Vogon which goes up Monday Blue (the arete on the right), then traverses across the break at 2/3rds height to finish up Little Unconquerable.  The reason for the name only dawned on me this morning (and its very apt  :P). 

Pray tell?

Vogons are the aleins in Hitchikers Guide to the Galaxy that plough through the middle of solar systems to make the Intergalactic Highway (at least in the first book thats what they're doing).


Cough cough....   ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on May 22, 2009, 11:26:23 am

Cough cough....   ;)

 :shrug: don't know what you're talking about?  Stop trying to make me look bad  :P ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 22, 2009, 11:34:26 am
Scuttling left at the top of RU is comparable to scuttling down from the break on WSS  :-\ :whistle:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 22, 2009, 11:35:45 am
Cheers. I know who Vogons are (were?) but didn't get the link.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on May 22, 2009, 11:39:58 am
Scuttling left at the top of RU is comparable to scuttling down from the break on WSS  :-\ :whistle:

 :lol: Stop trolling!

Cheers. I know who Vogons are (were?) but didn't get the link.

Sorry wasn't trying to give you eggs to suck, just trying to be comprehensive in my explanation.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oli on May 22, 2009, 11:41:58 am
I've never understood why the Little Unc has got 'a reputation' though.

I agree with you there, it's not that bad really. I can't even jam properly and I managed to do it. Incidentally that was one of the best evenings I've had I think. A friend and I came back from an unsuccessful day elsewhere with too much light left to go home, so nipped up and did all 3 unconquerables for the first time in about 45 minutes as the sun set. It was awesome.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 22, 2009, 11:45:08 am
Fiend, you ignore the fact that a) it ain't really an escape and I still topped out, and b) need I mention, I've since topped out direct, solo, barefoot with my cock out.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on May 22, 2009, 12:02:46 pm
I've got it JB = Mike Robertson,  Quick will update your list.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 22, 2009, 12:13:55 pm
Fiend, you ignore the fact that a) it ain't really an escape and I still topped out, and b) need I mention, I've since topped out direct, solo, barefoot with my cock out.
This is definitely a stylistic improvement over just trainers  :-\ ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: reeve on May 22, 2009, 02:17:51 pm
Fiend, you ignore the fact that a) it ain't really an escape and I still topped out, and b) need I mention, I've since topped out direct, solo, barefoot with my cock out.

You should write that up as a new eliminate version and post it in the news forum. Uh oh, unless you'd count that as willy waving.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 02, 2009, 06:41:01 pm
Arse. Just returned from a sticky afternoon at the 'cliff. How is it possible for me to get so shit so quickly? I've not climbed for 2 weeks - and before I went away was climbing 7a, get back and I couldn't even waddle up Morrels Wall.... conditions were not THAT bad....
Is it possible to get that fat and out of condition in such a short period of time?  :boohoo: I know....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 02, 2009, 06:44:27 pm
Just blame the conditions. Its 10 degrees hotter than a fortnight ago.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 03, 2009, 08:09:05 am
That aint gonna fly for failing on Morrell's. Put it down to high gravity or something.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 03, 2009, 12:28:19 pm
That aint gonna fly for failing on Morrell's. Put it down to high gravity or something.
Afraid so, Morrells was relatively icy... I put it down to general shitness..   :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BB on June 12, 2009, 11:39:15 am
No, No and indeed fucking NO!

I appear to have sustained a rotator cuff strain whilst spending the day fly fishing. A mere 7 days before leaving for 2 weeks chuffing on the Costa Blanca.

Shit Shit Shit!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 16, 2009, 08:14:02 pm
i got the first hard punch from the summer today.
34° in the shade today while cycling home, i just passed out on the bed seconds after finishing lunch and couldn't move for hours.
it'll be a long long (and cruel) summer.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: neil h on June 16, 2009, 08:23:08 pm
well it hit 30 in the forest and i managed a 7c in full sun  ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 16, 2009, 08:34:08 pm
another 7c neil? do you still have problems to climb in font?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: neil h on June 16, 2009, 09:29:43 pm
another 7c neil? do you still have problems to climb in font?


yes about 47000 of them

i am trying

 :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Charles on June 21, 2009, 07:24:43 pm
This is a bit of a delayed NNFN as its only starting to sink in how annoyed I am!

Last Tuesday I fell off Powerhumps with my fingers over the finishing jug! NNFN!!!

Four sessions! I've never spent as long on a problem! Its ridiculous! And now I've injured my finger so I'll be back to square one on that and Powerband where I also fell off with my fingers tickling the undercut - twice!!!!!.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on June 21, 2009, 08:13:59 pm
NNNNNNFN!  Went to Brimham and fell from the last move of the Pinky Traverse five times.  I suppose I deserve it for trying such a slopey horror-show on a hot summer's day.... Now I have no skin (most of my right hand is stuck to the upper flake) and even hotter weather to come means bugger-all prospect of seeing it off any time soon. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: neil h on June 22, 2009, 05:14:26 pm
i just got back from rainbow rocket, day 2 on the beast hitting the top pretty much every time but I cant hold it  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 04, 2009, 09:18:27 pm
NNFN!!!!!!
bad day out today (as bad as climbing is obviously), it was so fucking humid, the worst possible conditions that still remain climbable!!!
i didn't do anything, the project that my friends are progressing on felt impossible, and got a deep hole in my left index.
dammit.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 07, 2009, 06:19:13 am
i just got back from rainbow rocket, day 2 on the beast hitting the top pretty much every time but I cant hold it  :wall:

For your height it must be all of 7a. :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 19, 2009, 05:12:10 pm
I fell off the last move of Screaming Slave again.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on July 19, 2009, 05:54:43 pm
With foot locks?    ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 19, 2009, 06:23:21 pm
No, without, and without matching in the roof either, as per Johnny G.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 19, 2009, 06:25:07 pm
Obviously lanking it then Emo.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on July 19, 2009, 06:39:56 pm
Nah Andi is a beast on form ready to crush ice cool granite in a few weeks!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 20, 2009, 11:19:22 pm
Another NNFN from today- I failed to link Zippy's Traverse although I had all the moves wired- or so I thought- but then found much better beta at the end of the day when I was spanked and couldn't do it. Ah well, next time, given better conditions!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 23, 2009, 10:27:03 pm
Rimcheese.

Drove 1 1/4 hours to Almscliff to discover its the only place in Yorkshire that was raining (well in my journey anyway). Then was torn between a dank midgy dogshitty Wetherby and a dank midgy Caley decided to give the latter a blast as it wasnt raining over that side of the valley.

Caley was dank and midgey but exposed faces near the sugarloaf were dry enough. No cars on the road so the place to myself I thought... ah no, it was the evening that Bramley youth club were having their night walk... I rapidly tired of explaining what I was doing to a group of youths (who were OK to be fair - despite seeming to think I had a big bag of coke instead of chalk..) went up and down the roof of the world a couple of times (to chants of monkey boy - sigh) then retreated to the quiet near the sugar loaf (the supervisors were there but had gone elsewhere after having a can and a fag...). Attempted to slither up the pinch.. made friends with a few thousand midges and went home.

Bah humbug  ;) ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on July 24, 2009, 07:37:59 am
Sounds like a classic evening  :)

Should have come to Stanage, t'was minty fresh and no midges  :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 24, 2009, 07:39:48 am
Gotta keep an eye out for twats rolling their cars round that way though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DaveC on July 24, 2009, 01:18:21 pm
Gotta keep an eye out for twats rolling their cars round that way though.

 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Stabbsy on July 24, 2009, 01:35:16 pm
Drove 1 1/4 hours to Almscliff to discover its the only place in Yorkshire that was raining (well in my journey anyway). Then was torn between a dank midgy dogshitty Wetherby and a dank midgy Caley decided to give the latter a blast as it wasnt raining over that side of the valley.

Should have persevered with Almscliff. It went from piss wet through to bone dry in about half an hour and turned into a lovely evening. However, my pad now stinks of stagnant water.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 24, 2009, 01:39:52 pm
Drove 1 1/4 hours to Almscliff to discover its the only place in Yorkshire that was raining (well in my journey anyway). Then was torn between a dank midgy dogshitty Wetherby and a dank midgy Caley decided to give the latter a blast as it wasnt raining over that side of the valley.

Should have persevered with Almscliff. It went from piss wet through to bone dry in about half an hour and turned into a lovely evening. However, my pad now stinks of stagnant water.

Yup  :( Thought that as I drove past it on the way home... such is life. Though the other week I got fed up of messing around under the virgin boulder waiting for it to stop/dry and figured it might be the same...
Hows it looking today? forecast looks turd..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on July 24, 2009, 03:03:29 pm
Gotta keep an eye out for twats rolling their cars round that way though.

Yeah, yeah  :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Stabbsy on July 24, 2009, 04:58:29 pm
Drove 1 1/4 hours to Almscliff to discover its the only place in Yorkshire that was raining (well in my journey anyway). Then was torn between a dank midgy dogshitty Wetherby and a dank midgy Caley decided to give the latter a blast as it wasnt raining over that side of the valley.

Should have persevered with Almscliff. It went from piss wet through to bone dry in about half an hour and turned into a lovely evening. However, my pad now stinks of stagnant water.

Yup  :( Thought that as I drove past it on the way home... such is life. Though the other week I got fed up of messing around under the virgin boulder waiting for it to stop/dry and figured it might be the same...
Hows it looking today? forecast looks turd..

The Virgin boulder was getting a bit crowded for the first half hour last night and the Virgin traverse was never much good as a warm-up! Keeps raining on and off in York today, but the showers are so patchy that you might get lucky.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F on July 29, 2009, 11:22:57 am
On a chuffing theme, Grooved Arete yesterday:
First go - didn't get the sidepull at the top of the groove right.
Second go -got the first pinch and then pinged. Annoyed I got back on quickly where I'd stopped and went to the belay. Progress - two overlapping halves.
Third go - Right foot wasn't quite right so came of higher pinch. Reworked the move, decided to put foot on higher hold next go
Fourth go - feeling strong. Cruise upto the pinches again. Put right foot on higherhold, reach for jug and foot pops. Ahhhggghhhh.
Fifth go - Cruise upto the pinches, put right foot on lower hold. slap for jug but go above it, my fingers hit blank rock. Agggggghhhhhhhh.
Sixth go - feeling tired, get to the top of the groove , reach for the pinch and come off. Shattered

I feel completely broken, physically and mentally  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 29, 2009, 11:25:43 am
You'll piss it next go.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 29, 2009, 11:27:18 am
Have a wad for your (mighty impressive) efforts (and the excellent sequence suggestions). Next time (for you, not me, sounds like I've got another four years to go yet....)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F on July 29, 2009, 11:29:21 am
Cheer Nik, was good to meet you. I just hope the enforced (family holiday) lay-off doesn't do too much to reduce the fitness.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 30, 2009, 09:23:20 am
Nooooooooo! My longest peroid of relatively injury free climbing came to an end last night.

Seven months with only very mild tweaks here and there, climbing well, projects getting crushed.

Noooooooo.

Was at a local sport crag (Dunglas, loose and a bit rubbish) and had just done a 7a on 1st redpoint and then decided to try the 7b direct version. First go it felt desperate, but I managed to work out a sequence that made the most of the bad holds with lots of changes in body position. Anway, I digress.  So, on the 1st RP I got though the bouldery section to the rest where it joins the 7a. Just one hard pull on a sick, sharp crimp evil sharp finger wrecking crossly piece of horrible basalt and then crusie to the top.

At the time I heard the dreaded pop-crunch sound but it didn't hurt and a genuinely though it was the rock snapping, not my finger. How wrong could I be!

So, in the shower this morning and I squeeze the shower gel (at this point I still didn't know it was trashed) and ouch, ah, oh no....what's that, a fucked A4 you say...


Baws! :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on July 30, 2009, 09:29:06 am
A4?

Welcome to the Pulley club.  Have a look at this (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11581.0.html) and this (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2009/04/bllcks.html), which is becoming a diary of pulley rehab.  :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 30, 2009, 10:16:31 am
Bummer Ali. Bust out the bike.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 30, 2009, 10:26:36 am
A4?

Welcome to the Pulley club. 

I've had a few "tweaky" pulleys before, but this is the first one that's properly crunched! At least this way I know what it is and what to do.

Aye chris, that's the plan. Might buy a new DH bike.....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BB on July 30, 2009, 12:43:44 pm
Do it. DH is the perfect way to ensure your fingers mend.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 30, 2009, 02:42:30 pm
So, Mr GCW,

How well recovered do you feel now, 3 months down the line?

Like I say, I heard a crunch but it wasn't sore at the time. This morning it was noticably sore to touch (and squeezing a bottle of showergel hurt) but there is no swelling and it doesn't hurt just sitting about doing nothing. I'm going to try and avoid testing, prodding and poking it - maybe 1 or 2 squeezes a day to check the tenderness (as in, squeezing my bad finger witha good finger. Not testing it by using it)

1 week of doing absolutely nothing that could strain it. Then re-assess.

That's the plan.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 30, 2009, 02:49:46 pm
Do it. DH is the perfect way to ensure your fingers mend.

Aye, but I'll probably go and hurt something else ;-)

How much can a well looked after 2nd hand DH be had for these days?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BB on July 30, 2009, 03:49:45 pm
Nothing if you can get Fatdoc to bequeath his to you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on July 30, 2009, 04:22:42 pm
So, Mr GCW,
How well recovered do you feel now, 3 months down the line?

Don't trust it, still taping.  Able to pull quite well as long as it's open handed:  back to doing 7a/+ problems, although carefully selected to aviod being tweaky.

Your plan sounds fine.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 10, 2009, 03:44:39 pm
So after over two months of false starts and continuing back injuries, last week I decided to bite the bullet and hit the gym. It made sense to work on strengthening the muscles that kept packing in on me and God knows my arms, shoulders etc could do with the workout. Long term this had to be the way forward and short term the way back to training in any way again.

And it worked! I went Wednesday and Friday and my circuit felt hard but good. I didn't try too hard as the main plan was not to crock myself again but it felt great to get the body working again. So great that I grasped the opportunity to go again yesterday with both hands.

Getting to the gym early enough for it to be virtually empty I did the usual warm ups and on moving on to the bicep curls everything was feeling that bit easier. So I increased the weight slightly on each exercise (being careful not to push it too much) and crushed the circuit. I felt fantastic. Gains already and I'm actually really enjoying the gym for a change. Took Raf to the park, did some work, played football with him in the garden, lovely tea, few beers, great end to a great weekend.

The Mrs woke me at 6 (my turn to get up for a change) and I hopped out of bed to go and deal with the complaining child.......AAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGG!!!!!!! Someone had stuck a red hot poker into my neck / shoulder. Well they hadn't of course but it fucking felt like it. I was just about able to stoop/crawl to Raf's room and fanny about like a cripple getting him up / breakfast etc before Mrs S got up and I staggered to the shower. Random movements sent crippling shots of pain down my neck and only about half an hour in the shower enabled me to stand up straight.

I have no idea what I've done (feels similar to a "trapped nerve" type spinal thing I had as a teenager but not as bad) but I'm at work now dosed up with painkillers and praying that it's not just them that are making it feel a hell of a lot better than it did first thing this am. We shall see but it looks as if another trip to the physio beckons.

NNFN.  >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on August 10, 2009, 04:00:48 pm
I had a bad neck thing too a couple of months ago, came out of nowhere. at its worst I could hardly lift my head of the pillow, had to roll out of bed. couldn't look left, like zoolander. I think it came from sneezing (hayfever) with my head twisted to one side to avoid covering bambino with snot (although i notice he doesn't extend me the same courtesy). It gradually eased over a period of 3 weeks or so.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on August 10, 2009, 04:05:55 pm
Sounds similar to what I've currently got. I took my car to the garage t'other day ( a NNFN in itself!), and as I got out of the car a muscle which starts high on my neck (near the hairline), and almost in the centre (seems to attach straight onto the spine), and leads all the way down onto the top of my shoulder (I'd say my Trapezius?) twinged.

(http://www.healthcare-article.com/images/shoulder_muscles.jpg)

When I say twinged, I thought I'd snapped my spine! It was like getting shot. Hurt like fuck! Anyway, that was Friday so I spent the rest of the day sitting fairly stationary, unable to turn my head in pretty much either direction. Saturday (which just so happened to be my sodding Birthday!) I was sat at home, doing pretty much the same as I was on Friday (i.e. NOTHING!) when the weather was great, and I was bored. So very, very bored!

Well now it's Monday and after working yesterday (not exactly taxing, but a fair amount of movement) it's feeling better, but still not great. I'm gonna risk a little light bouldering, but doubt I'll be able to see where I'm putting my feet!

So Jasper, hopefully in three or four days you should be able to move your head properly, but I'll let you know how the climbing goes.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: uptown on August 10, 2009, 04:16:18 pm
I have no idea what I've done (feels similar to a "trapped nerve" type spinal thing I had as a teenager but not as bad) but I'm at work now dosed up with painkillers and praying that it's not just them that are making it feel a hell of a lot better than it did first thing this am. We shall see but it looks as if another trip to the physio beckons.

NNFN.  >:(

Unlucky Jas, sounds like Torticolis - small muscle spasms that can affect a nerve. Physio can help, but it should take care of itself with the aid of strong anti -inflams / painkillers.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 10, 2009, 04:35:04 pm
Cheers guys that's reassuring. I think beer may help too. Going to test the theory now.  :beer2:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on August 10, 2009, 09:29:53 pm
So Jasper, hopefully in three or four days you should be able to move your head properly, but I'll let you know how the climbing goes.

Well, just got back from 4 hours at the Works, and whilst it twinged a little bit at times, it seemed to benefit from the movement. It's feeling much better now, than before I left. I can almost turn my head as much as I could before. Reversing the car is the worst bit, but it was ok this evening.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cofe on August 10, 2009, 09:37:43 pm
weird. it's settled now, but i had something similar for about a fortnight, it finally eased middle of last week. twas murder turning my head either way past 45deg or so. maybe it's this 'spine flu' that the news people keep telling us about?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on August 10, 2009, 11:59:11 pm
maybe it's this 'spine flu' that the news people keep telling us about?

Uuuuuuuurgh!

 :furious:

I might punter you for that!

But you are right, there seems to be a lot of people with pretty much the exact same injury. Bizarre
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 11, 2009, 09:00:13 am
I often (a few times a year) pull a muscle just inside my shoulderblade, usually doing something daft, last time was picking up a toothbrush. I can feel it not sitting right for a couple of days before, and try and stretch as much as possible to stop it going, but it always does. I normally neurofen it and wait for pain to subside a bit, then have a steep boudering session, and it goes away again.

I have been doing a load of theraband exercises recently to sort out imbalances and stuff, and have had no problems since I started on the routines though. Touch wood.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mark s on August 11, 2009, 11:23:07 am
after a fall in november,i finally went for an xray in june to discover my 1st and 11th vert were fractured.then i was sent to have a c.t scan.had the results this morning.no further action required.thats good in one way but n n f n it still hurts.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on August 11, 2009, 11:28:18 am
If you get into a pub debate about injuries you can be sure no-one is going to be able to beat "walking around with a broken back for 9 months" though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mark s on August 11, 2009, 11:40:36 am
ha ha yeah.when i told andiT he said "wow you are wolfgang ,you've broken your back"
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on August 11, 2009, 08:29:17 pm
where there's no sense there's no feeling :-*
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on August 11, 2009, 10:16:50 pm
If you get into a pub debate about injuries you can be sure no-one is going to be able to beat "walking around with a broken back for 9 months" though.

A mate of mine fell off at Burbage and broke it without realising, then fell off again at Stoney about 4 years later and really broke it again. Went to hospital the next as she thought she'd just hurt it a bit!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Blunk on August 19, 2009, 04:07:38 am
Dudes, no matter what your wife implores you to do, never ever have kids. Never. I just found out that my kids have football games the next 8 fucking weeks. On Saturdays. In the fall, the absolute best time of the year for climbing. This jolly news arrives after I have battled through multiple gout attacks, groin surgery, serious knee injury, bone chips in the elbow, and a hideous flu over the past 8 months. After recovering from all the above I am in great shape and super psyched to send...my children to Albania. Fuck, fuck, fuck!!!

I am truly depressed.

PS: this pic is of Small Axe, 7b+, a fantastic problem that I won't be getting back to for the next 8 weeks.

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2454/3835828184_f8a6e43fca_b.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 19, 2009, 07:26:28 am
Tell me about it. Gout? I'm very impressed, that so debauched 18th century aristocrat.

In my own NNFN, I failed by the narrowest margin on an all out 3 star project at a secret Cheshire venue last night. I think I started counting my chickens after go 2, just before the effects of not climbing/training for the past month kicked in. I am very, very, very frustrated. Still, I know it will go now and it was a lovely evening in a stunning location.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 19, 2009, 08:43:47 am
Of all the daft projects to get embroiled in, DWS in Scotland must be the stupidest. Project relies on correct tides (an hour or two before high on a rising tide), calm sea, not raining, reasonably bright daylight, not horifically greasy (as opposed to the usual pretty fucking greasy) and it not being so fucking cold that I die if I fall in (ie the next month). Oh, and no onshore wind so there are no 12" jellyfish lurking in the fallout zone like last time.

Will be epic if it goes though. Upside is it is 10 mins walk from house.
 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on August 19, 2009, 09:47:21 am
Must be summat in the air as I've now got the necking neck pain!!! Car failed it's MOT (£600 of NNFN) so had to go indoors (NNFN) and slipped off a greasy smear while looking up, wasn't too bad at first but is pretty painful right now... Better be Ok this time next week as I'm driving to Font... Don't think I'll be getting back on the 7b I so nearly did at 2 tier on Sunday this week either... NNFN!!!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: neil h on August 19, 2009, 03:50:18 pm
Must be summat in the air as I've now got the necking neck pain!!! Car failed it's MOT (£600 of NNFN) so had to go indoors (NNFN) and slipped off a greasy smear while looking up, wasn't too bad at first but is pretty painful right now... Better be Ok this time next week as I'm driving to Font... Don't think I'll be getting back on the 7b I so nearly did at 2 tier on Sunday this week either... NNFN!!!!!


you better stay if them rocks, cant get injured before getting here, we have lots of climbing to do whenyou get here old man
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Blunk on August 20, 2009, 09:47:57 pm
Tell me about it. Gout? I'm very impressed, that so debauched 18th century aristocrat.

Apparently losing weight, eating right and getting in shape is the new debauchery. And being broke has always been aristocratic hasn't it?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on August 21, 2009, 07:33:34 am
thats such a strong photo blunk. underbite, backwards cap, cycling shorts. surely this must go in the old skool pics thread as well ;)

next hold looks like its going to ask questions of your pain tolerance
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 21, 2009, 08:54:19 am
Didn't know Black Diamond made baggy cycling shorts?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatboySlimfast on August 21, 2009, 09:19:01 am
Didn't know Black Diamond made baggy cycling shorts?
On any normal size human being those shorts could be used as a sleeping bag.....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: philo on August 22, 2009, 01:35:55 am
went for an interview for a position already filled.... waste of an hours interview and 2 exams    :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Blunk on August 24, 2009, 12:12:42 am
thats such a strong photo blunk. underbite, backwards cap, cycling shorts. surely this must go in the old skool pics thread as well ;)

next hold looks like its going to ask questions of your pain tolerance

Backwards hat due to balding issues, and baggy shorts due to no style sense. The underbite is my standard grimace.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F on August 29, 2009, 09:47:11 am
GA looks like it's wet for the year, just as I was getting close  :wall: I hate the british bloody weather  >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 29, 2009, 10:39:29 am
GA looks like it's wet for the year, just as I was getting close  :wall: I hate the british bloody weather  >:(

It can't be wet for the year, its not even September. Looks like a load of good weather coming towards end of next week.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on August 29, 2009, 12:10:23 pm
Been having forearm/elbow pain over the last month so went to the physio last night and confirmed Tennis Elbow..  :thumbsdown:  Oh well, at least I've caught it early.  No more Lime sport climbing or bouldering for a while.  A couple of weeks rest the time to dust off the trad rack and get out on the grit cracks and some Lleyn action.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: hairich on September 04, 2009, 02:35:36 pm
brilliant i am down to 10 stone feeling very strong and now appear to have dislocated my hip or ruptured my groin warming down at home after the works.any advice other than rest will be welcome
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: TobyD on September 06, 2009, 11:21:00 am
snapped holds off deep water soloing, hit big spiky rocks, mild concussion, fractured head of radius and a very sore ass. Actually could be a YYFY, considering i was on my own and didn't a) break anything worse b) drown.

Hairich, you might well have dislocated your hip if you regularly warm down by being involved in a high speed rta.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: uptown on September 06, 2009, 12:03:36 pm
snapped holds off deep water soloing, hit big spiky rocks, mild concussion, fractured head of radius and a very sore ass.
Recover soon Mr Cream, what happened to the deep water landing though?
I think I'll be returning to the grit now, what with Andy F taking up swimming too.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 06, 2009, 12:09:57 pm
 :o
I would chalk that one up as a definite win.

Creamtime 1 - God 0
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: galpinos on September 06, 2009, 12:12:56 pm
snapped holds off deep water soloing, hit big spiky rocks, mild concussion, fractured head of radius and a very sore ass. Actually could be a YYFY, considering i was on my own and didn't a) break anything worse b) drown.

Hairich, you might well have dislocated your hip if you regularly warm down by being involved in a high speed rta.

Shit Toby, that's rubbish.

Hope you recover soonish.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: TobyD on September 06, 2009, 06:32:04 pm
cheers all.

think the tourists at berry head fort were more distressed than me when they saw me emerging from a cliff top covered in blood.  :oops:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on September 06, 2009, 06:44:20 pm
GA looks like it's wet for the year, just as I was getting close  :wall: I hate the british bloody weather  >:(

That sucks, the lime round here is still good.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on September 07, 2009, 11:31:48 am
Speedy recovery Toby. That sounds well nasty. What route did you come off?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: TobyD on September 09, 2009, 11:38:09 am
cheers, it weren't the best!

It was in terminal zawn (not quite!) , on what i guess is part of the end of rainbow bridge - couple of holds exploded on easy bit. Later told by wise local that he never does that bit as its 'well dangerous' but does an easy climb out 50 yards or so before, or a harder, lower continuation (which i was traversing in to go and do but thought i'd check it out from the easy bit first)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: willackers on September 12, 2009, 08:30:06 am

NNFN!!!

I am on crutches with a massive ankle and won't be climbing for ages and it's sunny outside, I want to cry...
 
:'(

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 12, 2009, 08:52:35 am

NNFN!!!

I am on crutches with a massive ankle and won't be climbing for ages and it's sunny outside, I want to cry...
 
:'(
:(
Will, what happened? You were storming through those 8's.... bad news, hope its a simple injury rather than something complex & long healing...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: willackers on September 12, 2009, 09:03:03 am

NNFN!!!

I am on crutches with a massive ankle and won't be climbing for ages and it's sunny outside, I want to cry...
 
:'(
:(
Will, what happened? You were storming through those 8's.... bad news, hope its a simple injury rather than something complex & long healing...

I was working King Kong and fell from the jump move and missed the mat, I have to go back to hospital on Tuesday to see a specialist, fingers crossed it isn't anything too serious.....

Not cool.......
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on September 21, 2009, 11:45:07 am
Failed to redpoint Blockhead @ 2 Tier for the 3rd time yesterday and ripped am enormous flapper in the process - So much for a quick 7b Redpoint before getting on summat hard... No No FUCKING NO!!!!!!!!

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on September 21, 2009, 12:08:19 pm
Its nails for 7b isn't it ?
If you compare it to something like Beginner's Wall at 7b+ then there's not much difference there IMO
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on September 21, 2009, 12:24:58 pm
I wouldn't argue with 7b+, especially considering the time it's taken me so far :-[ Funny thing is that now when putting the clips in every move feels piss but for some reason on the RP I keep fluffing the move before the 4th clip.... Gotta be the most frustrating route I've ever been on!

Good to know that I'm not the only one that's found it hard tho ;)

:D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on October 08, 2009, 05:57:41 pm
NNFN! Some bastard decided to try and break into our van yesterday... what was more annoying/worrying is that we were clearly asleep inside the damn thing. It had all of the front window insulation in and the pad was leaning against the passenger door (they moved this to get to the lock). They didn't get in as we woke up but they have messed up both front door locks. Bleedin' spanish  :wank:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 08, 2009, 06:11:03 pm
I feared the worst when I saw you'd posted in NNFN! 

Bad luck mate but at least it's not a trip ruining injury or somesuch.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on October 08, 2009, 07:13:21 pm
Get yourself a aerosol can of de-icer as a squirt of that in the face should deal with the situation.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on October 09, 2009, 06:09:32 am
Bummer, at least you're both ok though.

Hope its not too costly/awkward to repair.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2009, 08:38:52 am
front door locks.

Bummer. Front door locks barrels aren't too bad to replace if the bodywork is OK, but it will mean you have a different key to open the door and start the van, unless you get the barrels cut to suite the key, which can be costly.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 09, 2009, 08:42:11 am
Thats really shit news - especially while you were sleeping - that would creep me out a bit... Anyway, in the meantime thought about simply tying the doors together inside? Quite a visual sign that someones in, now f*ck off...?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2009, 08:56:20 am
Use a sling and a couple of biners?

Shame you haven't got an iceaxe you can put on drivers seat - be a great visual deterrent.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy B on October 09, 2009, 05:09:22 pm
Showing an ice axe is like brandishing a knife. You have to be prepared to go pretty balls deep to actually use it, and if not, bearing in mind that you don't know who you're squaring up to, you could be in a much bigger world of shit.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on October 09, 2009, 05:19:51 pm
I agree which is where the squirt of de icer is the better option, unlikely to blind or cause long term effects plus the benefit of deniability allow use and its incapacitating effect will allow esacpe.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: account_inactive on October 09, 2009, 06:52:38 pm
front door locks.

Bummer. Front door locks barrels aren't too bad to replace if the bodywork is OK, but it will mean you have a different key to open the door and start the van, unless you get the barrels cut to suite the key, which can be costly.

What a pain in the arse.  Thieving gets did my passenger side lock with a screwdriver without getting in.  I've not bothered to replace it as I've fitted central locking and an alarm for £80.  Might be worth a look Paul? Only problem with the alarm is that you have to take out a fuse when you sleep in the van to stop it going off!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy B on October 09, 2009, 08:19:24 pm
I agree

Shit!

I've clearly lost my way regarding value based issues, and need to rethink my position on this.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on October 10, 2009, 12:02:43 pm
114 Euro fitted and cut to the same key including fitting doesn't seem too bad from a main dealer...

Its pretty clear we're asleep in it when we are... full foils etc. Titanic esque window condensation with the hand trail. You get the picture.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 10, 2009, 01:37:26 pm
i got the picture paul, thankk you.
 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on October 11, 2009, 05:17:15 pm
A bit of classic Font YYFY followed by NNFN this week just gone...

Thought I'd bagged at 6c+ at Bois Rond according to the purple guide, then checked bleau.info and it's apparently only a 6b.

Then yesterday did Rhume Folle at Cuvier, which would have been a proper achievement for me at the mo, only to find out that if you use the slopey pocket thing on the left it's only 6b!

I think I'm going to stop checking bleau.info when I've done stuff...either that or look in advance to make sure there aren't any weird rules I need to keep from breaking.

NNFN!!


Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duma on October 11, 2009, 05:39:59 pm
think Rhume Folle is 6C with the sloper, see here (http://Rhume Folle).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jeff25 on October 11, 2009, 07:43:07 pm
twisted my ankle whilst gawping up at Kluza Klien to see how wet it was...

lesson: dont walk and rock perv...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F on October 11, 2009, 08:57:40 pm
I successfully managed to throw myself off the rock-over at the top of GA three times on the trot, which is a new personal record.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on October 11, 2009, 09:18:27 pm
Gutted, I was mentally willing you up this all day as I rested.

Looks like another reasonable weather week so you may get another few rounds before the final bell of the year...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F on October 11, 2009, 09:52:54 pm
On the plus side The fitness is still increasing. Getting to the jug is worth 8a on it's own, so to do it 3 times in a day is pleasing. I've re-worked the top and think my new sequence is slightly less powerful, so if it stay's dry I may get it next week. With luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 11, 2009, 10:53:35 pm
End of year countdown clock is ticking....

You can do it min.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on October 13, 2009, 09:31:55 am
Despite the guy telling me I'd come back to find one key will still do everything on my van I returned to be handed a new set of keys for the front doors. Needless to say after VW last took the p*ss (fixing the wrong CV joint and letting us get far enough away so they could deny everything) I wasn't too happy and they're now rectifying it for no cost. W*nkers
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on October 13, 2009, 03:01:15 pm
paul can you stop writing in this thread, it worries me the moment before i look
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2009, 03:07:27 pm
Likewise.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: LucyB on October 13, 2009, 05:16:18 pm
Just had to pop back from my week in Font to work for 1 day, as my employers decided not to let me have both the days off in lieu that I am owed in the same week.  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 13, 2009, 10:46:35 pm
paul can you stop writing in this thread, it worries me the moment before i look

or post in YYFY along the lines of
Quote
I haven't broken anything and nobody died, but....


Lucy, that sucks  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 14, 2009, 08:11:46 am
Just had to pop back from my week in Font to work for 1 day, as my employers decided not to let me have both the days off in lieu that I am owed in the same week.  :wall:

Didn't realise you worked for some merchant bankers.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rodma on October 15, 2009, 08:50:42 am
NNFN

Just found out from a thread on cocktalk that I'm a lower/midgrade climber, and this is  apparently due to not climbing at the EICA.

Quote
You may not feel you personally benefit from the differences but to pretend there aren't any is just being obtuse. Alien is a good smallish local wall catering very well for lower/mid grade climbers. Ratho is a huge training and climbing facility with no equals in the country churning out a large chunk of the current British Youth Team.

What a way to find out, I new I shouldn't have gone over to the dark side

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 15, 2009, 11:13:12 am
Be told you punter! The word of the Cocktalk massive is law.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on October 15, 2009, 11:16:56 am
some c*ntish climber helped himself to my rear fog light in the buoux car park last night. Obviously they thought they read "VW Spares - take your pick"...

I think its a new low a climber stealing from another climbers van. Maybe I'm being negative but there were a lot of other t4's in the carpark. Duct tape it is!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 15, 2009, 11:27:52 am
That really is a c*nt trick. I reckon that at least this continuous "relatively" low level misfortune is keeping the bad luck levels from reaching a critical point.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 18, 2009, 04:52:59 pm
sigh, i drove to the dolomites all alone to climb my nemesis at sella pass. got there all psyched, sure about success. never felt like that before.
then i got snowed, i badly sliced a finger and drove 5 hours back home.
NNFN.
i'd go back and do it all again tho.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on November 02, 2009, 02:18:09 pm
Got up at 6. Left the house at 7. Cycled for half an hour. Covered about 6 miles and got past the 3 hills with just the slow rise/flat 5.5 miles to go. Should be in work in half and hour.

Puncture in the back tyre. Realise I removed the puncture repair kit from my bag that very morning as I was "only going to work".

Walk the rest of the way with a sore leg and a 10kg bike digging into my shoulder. Arrive at work at 10  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 02, 2009, 03:47:59 pm
Bummer - future reference, don't bother with repair kit, just carry a spare tube!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on November 05, 2009, 12:47:22 pm
Just got a Canon HV20 Video Camera, got a copy of Adobe CS4 to edit footage, raynox 6600 on it's way for Christmas..

and I've just realised my old PC doesn't have the capability to run the software, which means a whole new computer which I hadn't factored in... bugger!!!

 >:(

 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on November 05, 2009, 12:57:43 pm
Seriously injured shoulder, off to see the doctor tomorrow just before I'm supposed to be leaving for a weekend bouldering in the county. 

Fuck bastard.

I just hope the pub will be showing the rugby as I see a fair bit of  :beer2: on the agenda
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on November 05, 2009, 01:09:17 pm
That sounds crap slopes, how'd you do that then?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on November 05, 2009, 01:17:09 pm
That sounds crap slopes, how'd you do that then?

I don't know, I injured it last year, possibly separated it pulling onto an easy problem with Falling Down and it just 'went' when I rolled over in my sleep two days ago.

Tis very painful and getting worse, mobility is restricted and it makes me feel nauseuous.  I don't think a trip to A&E is worth it though, largely because I'm not sure I want to drive through sheffield!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 05, 2009, 01:23:36 pm
Tough paper-round old timer.

You still up for a gastro-ganza with Yos at the end of the month? Will you be healed enough to climb, it's been a while since I've seen your graceful form easing up rock...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on November 05, 2009, 02:01:51 pm
Yes I'm up for that, although I think Yos might be preparing for a downy little bird to settle in for some nesting action. :shag: :shag: :hug: :shag: :shag: :shag: :shag: :shag: :shag:

Anyway who else is intending to come, are you bringing me a rare collection of victims to sandbag on things graded 4+?

Hopefully I'll be well and injury free so can delight you with the flow of nuanced moves etc chiz chiz
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 05, 2009, 02:14:24 pm
Seriously injured shoulder

Bummer.

I diagnose damaged rotor cuff for the man with the most inflexible, hunched shoulders I have ever seen.

Unless you have embarked on a routine of stretching and muscle balancing exercises since we last met, which I seriously doubt.

Hope I am wrong though!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on November 05, 2009, 03:23:31 pm
No, I've not been doing any stretching, and remain as inflexible as ever.

I have however been going to the gym and doing gentle exercise) that is nothing above 75% of weight and mainly lower with high reps.

Let's try Dr Google.

Hmmm it looks like Dr Google agrees, so hopefull his local colleague can give me a cortisone shot, I can pill myslef to the safe limit and pull down like a bastard, or maybe just go to the pub instead.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 05, 2009, 03:50:28 pm
Do the latter.  :alky:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 05, 2009, 04:10:18 pm
Unlucky Sloper.. was it the same shoulder you tweaked when we were out a few weeks back??
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on November 05, 2009, 06:00:36 pm
Just got a Canon HV20 Video Camera, got a copy of Adobe CS4 to edit footage, raynox 6600 on it's way for Christmas..

and I've just realised my old PC doesn't have the capability to run the software, which means a whole new computer which I hadn't factored in... bugger!!!

 >:(

I'm surprised nobody mentioned that to you a while ago  :wave:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on November 05, 2009, 06:29:48 pm
Unlucky Sloper.. was it the same shoulder you tweaked when we were out a few weeks back??

Yeah same shoulder but this time it's proper fucked.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on November 06, 2009, 09:17:11 pm


I'm surprised nobody mentioned that to you a while ago  :wave:
[/quote]

I can always rely on you for a helpful comment G, cheers!

maybe I should have taken note of all the posts that said "factor in a PC upgrade"! ah well at least I can take HD footage, I'll just have to store it up for some uber non-quality filmage action
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on November 06, 2009, 09:24:16 pm
From our conversation about my Kray, I thought you'd have checked :lol:

Good excuse to build something though  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on November 06, 2009, 09:51:54 pm


I don't know, I injured it last year, possibly separated it pulling onto an easy problem with Falling Down and it just 'went' when I rolled over in my sleep two days ago.

Oh dear Slopes.  Sorry to hear that I remember when it happened.. You have my sympathies.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on November 06, 2009, 10:26:15 pm
From our conversation about my Kray, I thought you'd have checked :lol:

Good excuse to build something though  :thumbsup:

...or it could have been a good excuse to get a new computer under the radar (don't tell Mrs rginns, sshhhhhh!)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on November 06, 2009, 10:32:36 pm
get a new computer under the radar

That's what I mean- build your own!   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on November 06, 2009, 11:13:34 pm
Aye lad, this will be what happens...!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BD on November 17, 2009, 04:42:35 pm
Spent an hour trying jet set (the famous 7a in bleau) grabbing the final hold multiple times but never being able to hold on to it after an already long day of climbing :'(. It didn't even feel that hard but not pausing between attemps wasn't the smartest thing to do. It's a hard way to learn a simple tip: don't rush it! Haven't been that frustrated for a loooooong time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 17, 2009, 04:48:39 pm
I know that feeling, bastard problem.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on November 18, 2009, 06:33:28 am
Spent an hour trying jet set (the famous 7a in bleau) grabbing the final hold multiple times but never being able to hold on to it after an already long day of climbing :'(. It didn't even feel that hard but not pausing between attemps wasn't the smartest thing to do. It's a hard way to learn a simple tip: don't rush it! Haven't been that frustrated for a loooooong time.
I've been climbing this way all my life and still haven't learnt my lesson.
There is no hope
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on November 18, 2009, 09:04:12 am
Pulled something in my hand (at broughton last night) right down near the wrist. sharp pain every time i use the hand in the wrong way  :boohoo: including typing, opening doors  :wall:

Tim

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 18, 2009, 05:04:58 pm
NNFN!

Got to Font on Friday and caught up with the rest of the Scottish lads at Cuvier. Weather is ok but very warm (20c) but things start off ok, a few warm ups then I jumped on Vaudou-Système and got really close but not quite. Later on some folk padded out Hélicoptère so I had a few goes, trying to remember the heel-hook beta from last year. Third go, the heel hook stuck and I matched the crimp/sloper combo, let the heel hook go and held the swing - happy days, tried that problem at least 50 times!

Next morning I wake up to a fairly swolen elbow, odd. Jabs - our resident A&E doctor - diagnoses a possible infected bursa so I went to the Pharmacie, but they couldn't prescribe over the counter and I missed the doctor, so I just manned up, took vitamin-I and went climbing. Error. Managed to tick Le Lepreux Direct and pretty sure I would've got La Coeur if it hadn't rained  :boohoo:

The next day I wake up, well, not so much wake up, but crawl out of a pain-riddled night of non-sleep, take more painkillers and ibuprofen and go to Apremont "to take pictures and videos" with an elbow that has minimal range of pain-free motion and is twice the size of normal. Sunday though, so no point going to the Docs as they won't be open. Pulled on La Lune as it looked like it required minimal ROM and got it 5th go, or so. Had a play on Superplomb and the dyno thing, close, but not quite!

We then dacamped to Onde De Choc where I tried a 6a red that made me think my elbow was literally going to go pop, so I decided that was it for the day. That was, until people started trying Onde de Choc, which I seemed to be able to pull on without any pain, so I had lots of goes, lost lots of skin and got very close (2 moves from the top-out) but had to give up due to fading light and lack of skin. On the way back to the car I jumped on Fil a tordre and got it pretty quick, possible controversial beta though.  :spank:

The next day it rained all day, I should have gone to the Docs, but it was so close to home-day (today) that I didn't bother.

The next day it rained all day, I was in so much pain and the swelling was spreading up and down my arm that I decided to do battle with Fontainbleau Hopital, fun when you know miminal French!

After X-Rays, blood samples and a thourough examination, I got sent away with a bandage and a precription for 1g paracetamol tablets and 1g amoxycillin sachets - verdict, infection spreading!

Bit better today, but I still can't straighten my arm yet!

Woops, that was a bit long!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rodma on November 20, 2009, 08:15:27 am
Apparently MTFU is not the correct attitude when it comes to training with an ever so slightly tweaky A2  :spank:

It's not all bad, as it did make a lovely snapping sound when it went, and my finger is turning a lovely shade of purple this morning :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on November 20, 2009, 08:27:30 am
Ah, 2009 is A2 year :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 20, 2009, 11:21:01 am
GCW, is 3g/day of Amoxicillin an exceptionally high dose?

Most websites say 1500mg max  :shrug:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 20, 2009, 11:29:48 am
IIRC I got put on 1g a day by Bangor hospital when I gashed my toe at Craig Doris (on a stake at the top of the crag, having survived the climbing fine), and when I went to Sheff to change the dressing, they said that was unusually high and put me down to 650mg a day.

Having said that I got the wound treated ASAP and didn't have infection spreading like festering rot throughout my limbs...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 20, 2009, 11:33:00 am
GCW, is 3g/day of Amoxicillin an exceptionally high dose?

Most websites say 1500mg max  :shrug:

I got put on a similar dose when I got bitten by a spider in SA and the wound turned septic / got horribly infected / turned into a disgusting holein my elbow (whatever the medical term is). I think for nasty external infections a strong dose is needed.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 20, 2009, 11:45:58 am
So, eh, is my elbow pretty bad then? Or are French doctors just a little trigger-happy when it comes to drugs?

They did leave the cannula in my arm for about 3 hours after taking blood samples I was starting to think they might put me on IV antibiotics for a while.

Mind you, the fever and nightmares on Mnday night were a bit mental.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 20, 2009, 12:01:08 pm
Mind you, the fever and nightmares on Monday night were a bit mental.

Surely you are answering your own question.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 20, 2009, 12:10:38 pm
So, eh, is my elbow pretty bad then? Or are French doctors just a little trigger-happy when it comes to drugs?

They did leave the cannula in my arm for about 3 hours after taking blood samples I was starting to think they might put me on IV antibiotics for a while.

Mind you, the fever and nightmares on Mnday night were a bit mental.

I had IV anti biotics for a spider bite in the states (well no-one knew what it was so spiders bite became the accepted theory amongst the gaggle of doctors who came and prodded my swollen leg from time to time. Honestly, it must have been a slow day and - hey lets go and look at the Brit with the gammy leg..) I digress. The AB's were  8) leg problems were gone in 12 hours.....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on November 20, 2009, 12:29:07 pm
you can take 2g every 4 hours by infusion according to the B.N.F.mind this is if you've got listerial menigitis rather than a fucked elbow.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on December 11, 2009, 09:59:08 pm
Part I...word to the wise kids, be careful on them works Xmas dos - our was Weds night just gone, and in the course of getting home I hopped over a low wall (the phrase look before etc makes more sense now), only to find it was a fair bit further down the other side. Once I'd gone for it.

Have quite badly knackered my ankle and am limping like a combination of Herr Flick and Bishop Magic Don. Hope it's just a sprain...NNFN!!!

Part II - had to go up to Edinburgh today for the final stage of my professional qualification - basically a 40 min oral Q+A about Business Analysis (I know, riveting...) with a couple of the exam board fellas.

Sadly, as we kicked off it became clear that the organisers appeared to have omitted to send me the exam syllabus for the thing, so what I thought would be a chat about projects I'd done, how I'd applied the techniques I'd learned in the modules etc was actually an in-depth interrogation on the ins and outs of management accounting ...which I've not even thought about since the course I did back in 2006.

So, 6 hours of travel, 2 hours wasted hobbling round a frozen Edinburgh all just to have my pants taken down by two guys who've probably not led a workkshop or delivered a line of code in the last 5 years. NNFN!!

On the plus side, I now have a beer in my hand and cheese on toast (only toasted one side of course - don't want to make it 3 NNFN in one day) on the go...

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: willackers on December 12, 2009, 05:01:54 pm
NNFN! NNFN!

I've just fell from the 6c+ finish of King Kong 3 times in a row!, WTF is all that about?!?!

:furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on December 12, 2009, 05:03:01 pm
That's not a NNFN.. that's just climbing!  :spank:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: willackers on December 12, 2009, 05:07:15 pm
It feels like a NNFN, it should have been in the bag!  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 12, 2009, 05:15:21 pm
Is that the mantle on Gorilla Warfare? Don't fancy your chances of surviving many of those falls.  :jaw:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 22, 2009, 02:45:11 pm
This was so nearly a YYFY.  :'(

Out doing some workon Mudoch platform and managed to get finished a day early and we managed to get the last 2 seats on the flight back to Norwich, well, that was until they cancelled the flights.  :(

It's looking distinctly like we might not make it back for christmas :-( FUUUUUCCCCKKKKKK :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BB on December 22, 2009, 03:01:31 pm
It's looking distinctly like we might not make it back for christmas :-( FUUUUUCCCCKKKKKK :thumbsdown:

Oh noes mate! That's a proper NNFN. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 22, 2009, 03:53:21 pm
Bummer Ali. Not like you will be missing great winter climbing or ski touring conditions or anything.

Plus isn't Murdoch a shitty pile of rust?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 22, 2009, 04:11:46 pm
It's looking distinctly like we might not make it back for christmas :-( FUUUUUCCCCKKKKKK :thumbsdown:

Oh noes mate! That's a proper NNFN. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

It sure is! Cheers.

Chris, I'd be in work if I was home anyway, so not too bothered about that. Just want to get back for Chrimbo. Things hould have settled back down nicely by the 27th and I'll be hitting the mountains with a veangance!

On the plus side, the latest weather forecast is giving +3c for Norwich tomorrow, so it might happen.  :-\

P.S. Chris, dont'cha know they're all rusty piles of shit? (to be honest, this one's not too bad, built in the 90's, so there are sitll some bits of it that don't fall to bits when you hit them with a hammer!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on December 27, 2009, 07:25:12 pm
3 days rest, 2 days on, 8 last move failures... Pit of despair!  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on December 27, 2009, 07:36:15 pm
So you've managed to get out bouldering?
You've crushed all but one move on hard stuff?
And you're moaning.

MTFU Crouch.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on December 27, 2009, 07:38:57 pm
I am a broken shell of a weakman after today. I guess there is always Tuesday  :thumbsup:

p.s. Get yourself to the cave it is still primo
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on December 27, 2009, 07:43:13 pm
I'd love to go there and get my even-more-lardy-arse spanked on some 7a.

Unfortunately, some of us have jobs :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on December 27, 2009, 09:09:55 pm
Unfortunately, some of us have jobs :lol:

Whats one of them?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on December 27, 2009, 09:15:45 pm
I spend 2 hours a night warming Sir Nik's pyjamas before an open fire, before the retires after a rigorous training session on his WoB.
After that he allows me to pop home before a hard day carving wooden holds, and then warming pyjamas.

It's hard work, but ultimately satisfying.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 27, 2009, 09:20:34 pm
Unfortunately, some of us have jobs :lol:

Whats one of them?

Plenty of work going at Cuvier at moment for a handsome chap like yourself.  :shag:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: granticus on December 28, 2009, 08:00:09 pm
Finish work last Thursday night and go out for drinks with the boss who kindly gives me Friday off. YYFY :thumbsup: Have several days out down here in good ole Devon Dartmoor, Northcott, Exmoor, Hartland by the last day I'm wasted...  Leave on 23rd upto Warks to visit family etc..  5 days r 'n' r and I'm feel super good as I didn't over indulge (too much)..  So today I was supposed to drive the Mrs up to see the sister in law (near Nottingham) and I get to go t'Peak and bag some problems in nice cold dry conditions.  Then we see the weather forecast for tomorrow............. Need to get back to Devon but snow is forecast.  Plans are scuppered and we scuttle back to N Devon today where it's due to piss it down for the foreseeable NNFN!! :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BD on December 29, 2009, 02:06:17 pm
 :wall: just ripped a pulley in my left ringfinger (in style). There goes my training and with it my potential crushlist for 2010 and the year didn't even start yet. Might keep on climbing without the injured finger (taping it straight) so i can keep on climbing but it still sucks... big time!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 29, 2009, 09:11:42 pm
always good to start the year with a bang. i know i did, onto the icey pavement and my ac joint.
doubt it'll inconvenience me as much as your pulley bd [btw do you know that means comic strip in french, unlike pd which means... well never mind]
in case you don't know dave mc's ideas on this, here you are:
http://www.davemacleod.com/articles/coldtreatment.html (http://www.davemacleod.com/articles/coldtreatment.html)
his online climbing coach blog is worth perusing, although i've tacled every pulley i've damaged by taping the finger straight whilst climbing and keeping it that way till the pain has gone.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on December 29, 2009, 10:25:16 pm
Quote
think "i am Jerry moffatt" at least one hour a day

Did you get the wrong end of this DB? Jerry was injured a bit, but I don't think that was the part you should have focused on... And he did his elbows, not fingers..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on December 29, 2009, 10:35:10 pm
If you read the Blog of the Injured Lanky Punter you will see that there's plenty of potential for 2010.

Although it is seriously shit when it happens.  Did you get the nice noise?

I am Jack's disgruntled A2 Injury (http://vimeo.com/4338955)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: granticus on December 29, 2009, 10:56:03 pm
Thanks for putting missing a day's climbing in the Peak into perspective... 

A pulley injury really is a downer, hope the recovery goes to plan... BE PATIENT!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BD on December 30, 2009, 08:17:26 pm
in case you don't know dave mc's ideas on this, here you are:

 (http://www.davemacleod.com/articles/coldtreatment.html)
I'm typing with one hand and the other one in a nice, cold mini-bath as we speak (for the 6th time this week). Nice to be able to test it myself.

Did you get the nice noise?
unfortunately not, I only noticed it after i finished the boulder problem. One of the hardest in our gym so i really was getting strong 8) buyakasa! I guess the jerry moffatt mantra was helping.

Since I'm still unemployed, I couldn't contain myself today and went to the climbinggym to do some easy climbing with the good fingers i have left and put up a nice boulderproblem based on the buttermilk stem. No need for the finger on that one. Curious what the other people will think of it.

BD aka french comic aka Bart D aka 8a+t (how cool is that, I can write my name with a climbing grade in it :thumbsup:)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Tommy on January 04, 2010, 11:30:24 pm
So someone drives into my car in a carpark in their 4x4. Fortunately a witness sees the dickhead do it, and then promptly drive off leaving me with a dented bonnet and smashed grill. Fortunately, the witness takes all car details and I'm thinking - oh yes, let's get this fucker!

Anyway, to cut a long story short, it turns out he's not insured. NNFN!!! What are you supposed to do? What's point in spending your money year in year out for this sort of bollocks? (Other than of course the obvious answer that I can claim on my own insurance and lose my excess etc  >:( )

Absolute arse.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on January 05, 2010, 07:54:34 am
Report it to the police, since its illegal not to have insurance in theory they should prosecute (although in practice they're likely not to give a shit  :wank: :thumbsdown:).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on January 05, 2010, 08:01:13 am
Actually this is one thing they will take seriously as it's a priority offence (well it used to be).

Motor Insurance Bureau doesn't do damage only as far as I remember.  Follow the convicton for driving without and failing to stop and report with a civil claim, plead s.11 CEA and you automatically win.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 05, 2010, 08:16:07 am
If you have that legal claims extra thingy on your own insurance - then they may be able to follow this up for you.... Might be worth chasing up.

If nothing else works get the f*ckers name and address and find an alterative form of retribution!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Tommy on January 05, 2010, 09:59:55 am
Actually this is one thing they will take seriously as it's a priority offence (well it used to be).

Motor Insurance Bureau doesn't do damage only as far as I remember.  Follow the convicton for driving without and failing to stop and report with a civil claim, plead s.11 CEA and you automatically win.

So you reckon this is a better route than nicely asking the guy to give me a cheque to cover my excess loss? Despite his obvious failings as a paperwork and reverse-gear man, he seemed sort of reasonable and thought I might be able to do something in a nice gentlemanly british way.... Or am I living in cloud cockoo land? Don't answer that....  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on January 05, 2010, 10:50:56 am
Is he going to pay the extra to cover your increased insuance premiums for the next x amount of years as well?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Tommy on January 05, 2010, 11:00:29 am
Is he going to pay the extra to cover your increased insuance premiums for the next x amount of years as well?

Ah yeah, that's a good point. Then again, if it's not my fault does that drive up my premium still, or is it affected by all claims regardless of fault? If so, what a shit system.  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: north_country_boy on January 05, 2010, 11:08:08 am
Actually this is one thing they will take seriously as it's a priority offence (well it used to be).

Motor Insurance Bureau doesn't do damage only as far as I remember.  Follow the convicton for driving without and failing to stop and report with a civil claim, plead s.11 CEA and you automatically win.

So you reckon this is a better route than nicely asking the guy to give me a cheque to cover my excess loss? Despite his obvious failings as a paperwork and reverse-gear man, he seemed sort of reasonable and thought I might be able to do something in a nice gentlemanly british way.... Or am I living in cloud cockoo land? Don't answer that....  ;)

Or maybe ask him to pay for the entire repair cost?!!? Threaten him with the possibility of involving the police and the related consequences of a prosecution and the connected financial costs......
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 05, 2010, 11:30:33 am
Actually this is one thing they will take seriously as it's a priority offence (well it used to be).

Motor Insurance Bureau doesn't do damage only as far as I remember.  Follow the convicton for driving without and failing to stop and report with a civil claim, plead s.11 CEA and you automatically win.

So you reckon this is a better route than nicely asking the guy to give me a cheque to cover my excess loss? Despite his obvious failings as a paperwork and reverse-gear man, he seemed sort of reasonable and thought I might be able to do something in a nice gentlemanly british way.... Or am I living in cloud cockoo land? Don't answer that....  ;)

Or maybe ask him to pay for the entire repair cost?!!? Threaten him with the possibility of involving the police and the related consequences of a prosecution and the connected financial costs......

I'd approach him and say - its going to cost this much I'd like a cheque please. If he says no way, then just go to the police - say he failed to report the accident, drove away from the scene and has now told you he is uninsured. Ask them for a crime number for your insurance company (this at least will mean they will register it as a crime..). Ask your insurance company if they will chase it up for you - if not theres always the small claims court (up to 1k I understand) and easy to go with..

He may seem like a nice guy and if he is he'll cough up. Bottom line is he has caused you to be out of pocket - and driven off and its his liability and he should be insured (and he's breaking the law in more than one way). Round here (Humberside) they tow away uninsured vehicles and crush them - maybe remind him of that...

Good luck to you - its hard but at least you have his name and address... I'd say its up to him to make the amends!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on January 05, 2010, 11:57:32 am
Actually this is one thing they will take seriously as it's a priority offence (well it used to be).

Motor Insurance Bureau doesn't do damage only as far as I remember.  Follow the convicton for driving without and failing to stop and report with a civil claim, plead s.11 CEA and you automatically win.

So you reckon this is a better route than nicely asking the guy to give me a cheque to cover my excess loss? Despite his obvious failings as a paperwork and reverse-gear man, he seemed sort of reasonable and thought I might be able to do something in a nice gentlemanly british way.... Or am I living in cloud cockoo land? Don't answer that....  ;)

Or maybe ask him to pay for the entire repair cost?!!? Threaten him with the possibility of involving the police and the related consequences of a prosecution and the connected financial costs......

I'd approach him and say - its going to cost this much I'd like a cheque please. If he says no way, then just go to the police - say he failed to report the accident, drove away from the scene and has now told you he is uninsured. Ask them for a crime number for your insurance company (this at least will mean they will register it as a crime..). Ask your insurance company if they will chase it up for you - if not theres always the small claims court (up to 1k I understand) and easy to go with..

He may seem like a nice guy and if he is he'll cough up. Bottom line is he has caused you to be out of pocket - and driven off and its his liability and he should be insured (and he's breaking the law in more than one way). Round here (Humberside) they tow away uninsured vehicles and crush them - maybe remind him of that...

Good luck to you - its hard but at least you have his name and address... I'd say its up to him to make the amends!
Get Cash not a cheque
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Lund on January 05, 2010, 12:25:43 pm
Is he going to pay the extra to cover your increased insuance premiums for the next x amount of years as well?

You can sue him for the no claims bonus as well as the rest - you don't have to restrict your case to the immediate damage.  This happened to my old man - some bell-end came the wrong way down a one way street and hit him head on, he sued him etc. and basically ended up being no worse off (apart from possibly a loss in the resale value of the car).  Not sure if he did it through the insurance company - think so - and it took quite a while, he had to go to court etc. which was a pain.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Teaboy on January 05, 2010, 12:28:05 pm

he seemed sort of reasonable and thought I might be able to do something in a nice gentlemanly british way


But not reasonable enough to stop and try to sort it out in the first instance. And if there is such a thing as a gentlemanly British way of doing things I'd guess it would involve something along the lines of paying for insurance in the first f*^%ing place like the rest of us.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Norton Sharley on January 05, 2010, 12:29:57 pm
Report the fucker to the cops, that is what they are there for, partly.  The more people get away without driving with insurance the more the rest of us pay to compensate.  Have him hung, drawn and quartered I say.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cofe on January 05, 2010, 12:47:42 pm
Report the fucker to the cops, that is what they are there for, partly.  The more people get away without driving with insurance the more the rest of us pay to compensate.  Have him hung, drawn and quartered I say.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on January 05, 2010, 12:55:58 pm
Report the fucker to the cops, that is what they are there for, partly.  The more people get away without driving without insurance the more the rest of us pay to compensate.  Have him hung, drawn and quartered I say.

Doesn't make much sense the other way round, since there's nothing wrong with having insurance and not driving ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on January 05, 2010, 01:10:54 pm
Report them, get them prosecuted, the standard points for no insurance and fail to stop will be about 9, so potentially for many drivers leading to a ban as a totter.

People who drive un insured are a menance and need driving off the roads.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Tommy on January 05, 2010, 01:54:45 pm
Thanks for the words of wisdom guys!

I shall proceed accordingly. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on January 05, 2010, 02:56:49 pm
Report the fucker to the cops, that is what they are there for, partly.  The more people get away without driving with insurance the more the rest of us pay to compensate.  Have him hung, drawn and quartered I say.
They don't call you Cofe "the echo" Cofefield for nothing do they?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cofe on January 05, 2010, 03:13:41 pm
Report the fucker to the cops, that is what they are there for, partly.  The more people get away without driving with insurance the more the rest of us pay to compensate.  Have him hung, drawn and quartered I say.
They don't call you Cofe "the echo" Cofefield for nothing do they?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on January 05, 2010, 09:16:53 pm
I agree with Sloper (I am feeling a little under the weather actually). Get him prosecuted. Get your money back through the courts! Teach the fucker a lesson that it's illegal to drive uninsured. What if there hadn't been a witness? He would've got off scot free. I think it's totally unacceptable!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 11, 2010, 02:16:25 pm
right after my cresciano moment of glory, and at the beginning of the training cycle to destroy font, i am experiencing the first hemorrhoid crisis of my life.
it's a miserable experience that is making my life a... pain in the ass.
today at the bus stop i almost cried.
NNFN.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Krank on January 11, 2010, 03:13:04 pm
i hope your arse is insured Nibile ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on January 11, 2010, 03:16:47 pm
What were you up to at the bus stop, Nibs?   ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Houdini on January 11, 2010, 03:20:00 pm
Cut down on the coffee, Nibz, (and if you smoke, STOP).


Go easy on the sodomy too  :-* (but if you can't, use more Bum-Glide TM)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on January 11, 2010, 03:32:36 pm
Could try squatting (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemroids#Use_of_squat_toilets) (with the caveat that the reported study had low sample size and the findings may not be applicable to the rest of the population, i.e. poor estimate of efficacy).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Krank on January 11, 2010, 03:47:14 pm
aint karma a mother fucker, mins after jibbing Nibile i find out that my training room has had a burst pipe, all the crash mats are now giant sponges and tonights session has been replaced with mopping, NNFN.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 11, 2010, 03:51:33 pm
 ;)
i'd still prefer the mopping.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 11, 2010, 03:59:25 pm
houd,
i know i should cut the coffee, but that is one scary perspective. thinking at how much i'm suffering at the moment, though, a life without coffee is much better than a life with these little bastards.
obviously i have been quite an idiot, because when already a bit achey, i put in 4 training sessions with the aforementiond painful results.
ok it's gone. from tomorrow morning i will try. i'll use the same 4 cup moka but with one cup worth of coffee.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Krank on January 11, 2010, 04:04:13 pm
;)
i'd still prefer the mopping.

Me to.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Houdini on January 11, 2010, 07:49:00 pm
The coffee and fags used to roast my ass; the cigarettes weren't much help either, but I'm over them now  :)




I second the motion to squat.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: saltbeef on January 11, 2010, 08:17:50 pm
anusol
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: account_inactive on January 11, 2010, 08:23:31 pm
I'd listen to Britains best bum Doctor.  he's seen a lot of ass in his time
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Houdini on January 12, 2010, 12:42:37 pm
I saw this & thought of Nibz

(http://nicedeb.files.wordpress.com/2008/05/billy_liar_flier.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 12, 2010, 02:42:01 pm
 ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on January 19, 2010, 09:28:49 pm
The heaviest I have ever been today. 89.5kg
no wonder I was shit down the wall
NNFN!

I'll actually have to diet now
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Monolith on January 19, 2010, 10:14:17 pm
In grave danger of flunking my first exam ever on thursday. Praying to every god in abundance this isn't the case. NNFN to that heart wrenching anxiety that won't leave!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F on January 19, 2010, 11:01:56 pm
I'm sure you'll crush like a meatball in a cave  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Monolith on January 20, 2010, 07:48:24 am
No man can crush anything like that man can. Looks like Caleb will be burning us all off soon from your avatar!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BB on January 20, 2010, 09:15:37 am
NNFN! knee surgery on the cards for Feb.  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 20, 2010, 09:48:30 am
The heaviest I have ever been today. 89.5kg
no wonder I was shit down the wall
NNFN!

I'll actually have to diet now

I feel your pain. At least you have been down the wall. Not been climbing, only the occasional beastmastering since early December
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Ethan on January 23, 2010, 04:25:08 pm
Got some major linkage today on Keen Roof Ex,  :thumbsup: a little damp/wet in places but.... pysched!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Stubbs on January 23, 2010, 07:12:09 pm
Wrong topic?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Moo on January 23, 2010, 07:44:10 pm
my shoulder feels agonisingly tight today during a warm up at the works 5 weeks from a month in switzerland i may have to stab someone.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 24, 2010, 07:53:45 am
can we nominate who
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on January 24, 2010, 10:48:40 am
told you geo breaks your body moo
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BenF on January 24, 2010, 03:26:05 pm
I may have to stab someone.

can we nominate who?

That'll be one for the "bring out your stabs" thread.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: account_inactive on January 24, 2010, 04:29:14 pm
Bust my bicep and now my wrist has started to hurt too.  luckily I'm not going to Font soon.....oh wait a minute  >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Moo on January 24, 2010, 05:28:23 pm
okay it may not be as bad as i thought it seems to have calmed down enough i reckon i'll just have to hit up the beastmaker for a couple of weeks. your right dense geo does break your body which is why i'm keen to do as little as possible for the rest of my life.......  still back to scotland next week  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on January 30, 2010, 10:44:03 pm
I have been working on my dissertation for weeks now, in for next week. Haven't been climbing since before Christmas. Just want to go climbing. The beautiful weather today brought me so much pain. I am now fat and weak.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Moo on January 31, 2010, 03:05:09 pm
tom no matter how much you eat you will never be fat
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 05, 2010, 10:43:23 am
Just tipped 14 stone mark. Personal Heaviest for me. Was over a stone less this time last year.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on February 05, 2010, 12:15:57 pm
Just tipped 14 stone mark. Personal Heaviest for me. Was over a stone less this time last year.
snap
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: T_B on February 05, 2010, 01:17:09 pm
lightweights

my NNFN was tearing my hamstring last weekend. At least I'm not supposed to be going skiing next weekend  :-[
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 05, 2010, 02:00:41 pm
I'm not 8 ft tall though tom. And usually rely on low weight ration to go with my low power.

Bugger on hamstring, what did you do?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: T_B on February 05, 2010, 03:01:39 pm

Bugger on hamstring, what did you do?

Joined the masses on snowballing at Stanage last Saturday. Pulled too much on my left leg on Cemetery Waits  :-[
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 05, 2010, 03:31:03 pm
Not good!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nutcracker on February 17, 2010, 09:57:24 pm
Some morrocan fucker swiped my bag with my climbing shoes in while I was pooing myself 20ft up barefoot on some crumbling toss. Next day (thankfully last) my surfboard fin sliced my knee up something rotten. ended up football sized.  8)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on February 23, 2010, 10:42:27 pm
Twanged summat in me knee down the works tonight... Can't straighten it, can't walk, hurts like f*ck!   :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kroozin on February 23, 2010, 11:30:21 pm
Properly F..... P...... off that my college trained 10 members of sports staff on a climbing course to supervise and not one of them could cover for an hour just till the usual member of staff come from a meeting. But its ok for them to thread football nets while standing next to the climbing wall, sit at a desk and shuffle paper, put some leaflets on tabled, stand and talk to other members of staff doing nothing.
People show enthusiasm and the staff with the qualifications cant even do their job. They should have put more enthusiastic staff (that really wanted to go) on the course instead of just 1 person who likes climbing and not the 3-4 others that would have liked to.

This new college taking over ours and making up their own rules is a pile of  :furious: 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 24, 2010, 08:36:31 am
Twanged summat in me knee down the works tonight... Can't straighten it, can't walk, hurts like f*ck!   :thumbsdown:
Bummer's knee, AGAIN??

Poor Duncan, you should stick to running and being weak, it's less dangerous for you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kroozin on February 24, 2010, 09:02:09 pm
Killed my hands putting new holds up for a pinchy finger traverse  :thumbsdown:
is it worth it  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on March 02, 2010, 11:57:12 pm
I suppose it's only a minor, and doesn't really deserve to go in here, it was more of a frustrating evening rather than a proper NNFN!

Went to Burbage South after work. Had a bit of a warm up. Anyway, wandered over to Electrical Storm, and spent a nice little session trying to work out a technique to do it. I knew some people go out right to the good edge, but looked at it, and thought it was improbable, so didn't even try it. Spent ages trying to go direct up the lightning feature to no avail.
Anyway just as we were about to give up I thought I'd look at going right. Did the move first time. Did the next move to the top. Fuck me that was piss! Right, now I know what to do, I'll get it done.
A minute later, I sit down, go to the slopey ledge, go right to the edge, go up to the top, work my way right to get to the last slopers before going directly up and over to finish it, and I'm pumped stupid! Can't hold anything. I'm utterly spent, I fall off. I can't even contemplate getting back on this evening.
I'm going to have to come back and finish it off.

Oh well, it was a lovely evening.

A quick bit about beta, I guess the massive foot-ledge to the right of the block itself (just as you're about to top out) is out? It isn't part of the block itself so I didn't try to use it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy B on March 03, 2010, 04:21:35 pm
If it's not part of the block then it's out, but I think there is a decent 1-2 inch deep by 4-5 inch wide foothold before the top out.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on March 03, 2010, 06:41:50 pm

 wandered over to Electrical Storm,
 Spent ages trying to go direct up the lightning feature to no avail.

Anyway just as we were about to give up I thought I'd look at going right. Did the move first time. Did the next move to the top. Fuck me that was piss! Right, now I know what to do, I'll get it done.

How did you do the move right in the end?  I tried this yesterday afternoon and can't make the move out right, just can't reach without getting my feet into what seems like an unfeasible position.
I felt close to getting it direct but it's a bit of a nasty slap to get the top holds.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: r-man on March 03, 2010, 09:27:30 pm

How did you do the move right in the end?  I tried this yesterday afternoon and can't make the move out right, just can't reach without getting my feet into what seems like an unfeasible position.


I found this move desperate until I discovered I could use a good edge for outside rf.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on March 03, 2010, 09:34:14 pm
is that the one out on the left or the small low one almost directly below the groove?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: r-man on March 03, 2010, 09:57:56 pm
Not completely certain which one, but I suspect it may be the one at the bottom end of the groove in this photo, with a little chalk on it. Remember it being a decent size.

(http://www.peakbouldering.info/photos/154.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on March 04, 2010, 12:12:38 am
Personally I start with my LF quite high (I think it's the foothold only just poking out of the shade without any lichen above it in that pic) and both hands crossed, LH on the bigger better hold, RH on the smaller, but positive ledge. RF just about touching the chipped(?) edge at the bottom of the feature. Get the bottom right of the big ledge with the RH, then get the LH at the back left of the big ledge, tips just about in the seam at the back, fingers surrounding the slight bulge in the seam. Then just throw at the good small edge.

I then have to RF toe hook the feature, then LF toe on the smaller positive ledge to get the top with the LH.

P.S. I'm virtually 6'0", with a negative APE index.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on March 04, 2010, 12:14:20 am
If it's not part of the block then it's out, but I think there is a decent 1-2 inch deep by 4-5 inch wide foothold before the top out.

I suppose we did have headtorches so I should've seen that, but I couldn't see anything by that point. I was almost campussing the slopey lip traverse!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on March 04, 2010, 06:54:17 am
am i right in saying its given two grades? 7B for direct up the lightening feature and 7A+ if you use the sequence which breaks right?   
 :shrug:
Not done it but think i read this?

Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: r-man on March 04, 2010, 01:00:45 pm
There is a left finish, and it's a grade harder. I've never been sure whether it goes straight up or diagonally left. Anyone know?

The standard version is probably 7B.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on March 04, 2010, 05:07:06 pm
Cheers for all the suggestions guys, just had 30 minutes there and confirmed I wasn't missing anything, I just can't reach the crimp off that foothold.  Looks like I'll just have to continue slapping straight up, I'm sure I'll stick it sooner or later.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Iesu on March 13, 2010, 09:45:01 am
knocked off bike on way to work wednesday am. physio says AC joint damaged. had issues with that shoulder anyway....
hurt after playing the drums (ok, so i realise that wasn't the best idea)
boo fucking hoo
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: k2ted on March 13, 2010, 10:28:46 am
NNFN - did my a2 pulley about 9 wks back. Just starting to get stronger , then put the bastard back weeks after pulling too hard thurs night. Well fucked off...... >:(

lesson - patience & back to taping.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Charlie T on March 13, 2010, 11:24:21 am
ingrowing toenail - 2 weeks no bouldering,
a2 pulley - 3 weeks no bouldering,
finally ready to boulder again saturday then i pull my shoulder kayaking on friday,
NNFN!!!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy B on March 13, 2010, 06:50:03 pm
Cheers for all the suggestions guys, just had 30 minutes there and confirmed I wasn't missing anything, I just can't reach the crimp off that foothold.  Looks like I'll just have to continue slapping straight up, I'm sure I'll stick it sooner or later.

Another alternative to the edge, or slapping up, and the way I find easiest, is to get a right backhand in the corner and reach over the top with my left hand to the big slopers. Nice and static, but not everyone's cup of tea.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chriss on March 13, 2010, 11:45:36 pm
Australia bites back- literally! After making it down to the Grampians & starting to feel like a climber again I have been bitten on the finger by some critter & am having to go to the hospital every 12 hours for antibiotics. Nice......
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BB on April 15, 2010, 07:50:22 am
NNFN!!

My flights to Toulouse today are cancelled. Bloody Iceland. Nothing but trouble.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 15, 2010, 11:42:59 am
If they aren't producing annoying singers or collapsing our economy they are grounding our aircraft. So inconsiderate.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BB on April 15, 2010, 11:49:24 am
Fuckers!

Managed to reshedule for tomorrow but there's no gurantee that conditions won't be the same then. We've already lost a days climbing and we were only going for a long weekend.

double NNFN!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on April 15, 2010, 12:09:50 pm
Supposed to be flying to Milan for a trip to Arco tomorrow. Finger crossed, but not expecting much..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: iain on April 15, 2010, 12:11:31 pm
Shit isn't it. Family were supposed to be meeting in Ghent this weekend but at this rate only half of us will make it, not including the people who were paying for it either  :thumbsdown:

This was put up on a gruniard blog:
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/aviation/vaac/data/VAG_1271309704.png (http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/aviation/vaac/data/VAG_1271309704.png)
doesn't bode well at the moment
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on April 15, 2010, 12:22:47 pm
Damn Nature and its inconsiderate timing!  Plus its going to pump a tonnes more CO2 into the atmosphere which is not what the earth needs at the moment.  Why can't the geophysicisits have done something about this already and capped all volcanoes so that we can control the release of pressure from the earths core and use it effectively.  :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: iain on April 15, 2010, 12:31:47 pm
Damn Nature and its inconsiderate timing!  Plus its going to pump a tonnes more CO2 into the atmosphere which is not what the earth needs at the moment.  Why can't the geophysicisits have done something about this already and capped all volcanoes so that we can control the release of pressure from the earths core and use it effectively.  :P

Exactly, I mean how are we supposed to take better care of the planet if it can't even look after itself! Trying to transfer blame onto the geophysicisits for not capping in time is a little underhand in my opinion  :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 15, 2010, 12:32:51 pm
I blame the scientists. May as well cut their funding the useless twats.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 15, 2010, 08:00:03 pm
Well.. after a mere 18 hrs the bubble burst..

yesyerday it was YYFY.


Now, the mistress that is font has closed me down, made me devoid of skin and my self belief has been rent asunder.

God, i adore this pastime.. though I am *hurty, very very hurty...*

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 16, 2010, 11:32:06 am
I blame the scientists. May as well cut their funding the useless twats.

Yup, we're all wankers. You'll all be better off using this lady. I make up all my results down the pub anyway....
(is this one of the statements that will haunt me in future career progressions??)

(http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2008/12/08/article-0-0005641700000258-611_468x334.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: willackers on April 16, 2010, 11:33:11 am
NNFN!

Lost my job yesterday!, my company lost 2 massive contracts and had to lay some of the staff off! NNFN!  :'(

I got told over the phone as well because my bosses flight into Glasgow was cancelled because of some volcano erupting in bloody Iceland!?!?!

Suppose I better make the most of this sunny weather, off to Dumby......   :wave:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2010, 11:42:10 am
Bummer Will. Getting any sort of notice or package (fnarr)?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: willackers on April 16, 2010, 12:04:14 pm
They've offered me a months wages or said I could stay on the books (unpaid) and see if things pick up but they don't think they will.

Not sure what to do?, Have a think about it over the weekend.  :shrug:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2010, 12:26:09 pm
Take the month's cash, and then live the dream on the ropes. You know it makes sense  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 16, 2010, 12:26:46 pm
That's a fucker. Bad luck. Sounds like it'd be best to take the cash.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: willackers on April 16, 2010, 12:42:33 pm
Take the month's cash, and then live the dream on the ropes. You know it makes sense  ;)

Last time I was on the ropes I disconnected some level 3's shunt rope!, still having nightmares about it!

I can't for the life of me remember his name?  :whistle:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2010, 12:46:23 pm
All in a day's work that, textbook supervision.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2010, 02:10:33 pm
Take the money and run. Spring won't last forever and it's warming up in the forest. If anything does crop up I'm sure they will be in touch.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on April 16, 2010, 03:47:04 pm
Take the money! Don't sit at a company that's going nowhere not getting paid. In spite of the doom and gloom there are companies doing well and growing out there.  Do your CV this weekend then spend the next four weeks climbing and job hunting.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: willackers on April 16, 2010, 08:32:36 pm
Cheers for the advice!  :)

I think I might just take the money and look for another job (plus climb loads)
 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 20, 2010, 01:45:52 pm
dammit, just as i was starting training again, my right elbow started hurting in the inside. epitrocleitis innit? NNFN!
bring the pills.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 25, 2010, 07:19:30 pm
Fucking Aberdeen fucking sea-cliffs >:( Here I am feeling pretty much in prime trad condition and once more I get shut down so hard I might as well hibernate for the next decade  ??? Managed to fail on not one not two but three easy warm-up routes  >:( What a gaylord  :( Although I do wonder WTF I am doing climbing 30° overhanging rock without any bolts in it  :-\

Back to the drawing board / Ratho  :yawn:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on April 25, 2010, 08:08:26 pm
Persevere, Fiendy, the Sea Cliffs are fickle Masters and will only reward you when they feel you deserve it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2010, 09:13:42 pm
Fucking Aberdeen fucking sea-cliffs >:( Here I am feeling pretty much in prime trad condition and once more I get shut down so hard I might as well hibernate for the next decade  ??? Managed to fail on not one not two but three easy warm-up routes 

I got a text from RB, where you guys at Floors Craig? All a bit steep there TBH, and the rock often feels a bit cold and greasy, esp when the haar has been in like it was earlier today. If it's any concession, I backed off Right Hook last time I was there.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 25, 2010, 10:55:24 pm
Chris, yeah that's the bugger (the crag not RB), I was gonna pop in too. Aye and it was a bit cold and greasy still, not a lot of haar but still suboptimal. My main issue is dealing with the steepness / blindness / placing gear quickly / committment required etc etc  :yawn: god I'm boring myself now. Anyway I will keep trying, I want to like it there....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 26, 2010, 08:25:52 am
It was pretty clagy first thing, but probably burned off by mid morning. I think Floors Craig gets a lot of sea spray as it's pretty deep water just off the sea platform so if there is any rough seas it gets the full forces of it, and is often greasy as a result. Worth saving for a sunny morning. And yes, the climbing of often a bit steep and blind. Get back soonish, the winged devils can make the platforms a shit fest.

Apparently South Cove is in good nick right now, Pete Wisthal ticked Lunatic Fringe (E7) last week, and the E5s next door are apparently clean and in good nick.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on April 29, 2010, 09:56:19 pm
I have broken myself.  Fell off soloing on Saturday, dislocated my finger and pushed the bone through the front on my hand.  No climbing for a couple of months, during which time I'm gonna get fat, weak(er) and very, very bored.  And just when I was feeling fit and keen for the trad season.  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 30, 2010, 06:35:41 am
shit! one handed training, others wud say slab board. come on nik, andy. what shud he do? turn to the dark side
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 30, 2010, 08:12:13 am
One handed training sounds fine to me Dense. Unless that's a euphemism for wanking...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on April 30, 2010, 06:35:23 pm
I was thinking about this (one handed training, not wanking).  Given that I not strong enough to do one handed hangs on a finger board, I'm not sure what I could do other than problems on sector 4 at Broughton and maybe feet-on laddering/snatching up and down a campus board.  Any thoughts?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on May 01, 2010, 12:39:41 am
Maybe have a strap around the bad hand's wrist so you can pull with that arm, but then the good hand on the fingerboard, and as you get stronger, increase the length of the sling, so you pull less with the fucked arm.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 19, 2010, 06:33:12 pm
I was thinking about ....problems on sector 4 at Broughton .  Any thoughts?

That's the best bit. You never waste time getting stronger fingers, and you rarely see people bouldering seriously on that sector, for one simple reason: the problems are hard.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on May 25, 2010, 09:55:24 pm
NNFN, I was being careful with my finger but obviously not careful enough. It went from bad to worse last week and is now exhibiting A2 and collateral injury symptoms.
Annoyingly my other hand is exhibiting dupuwhathisface so puntering on jugs isn't much fun either.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on May 25, 2010, 09:57:13 pm
Well, you have been doing a lot of typing.  :shrug:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: account_inactive on May 25, 2010, 10:08:16 pm
Bugger
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/a/ab/Unlucky-Alf.JPG)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on May 25, 2010, 10:20:24 pm
Well, you have been doing a lot of typing.  :shrug:

ah yes! it must be bad karma for all of my misogynistic undertones.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy B on May 27, 2010, 03:11:54 pm
Have just found out that I'm a size 18 in a dress. :( Fat bastard.

Kim on the other hand, is a svelt size 10, and looks stunning in a halter neck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 27, 2010, 03:42:19 pm
Do we really want any further details. I for one, don't want to know.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cofe on May 27, 2010, 03:51:49 pm
I can't remember what dress size i am. must dig it out and check later.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Kim on May 27, 2010, 04:38:50 pm
Do we really want any further details. I for one, don't want to know.

I'd just avoid Mello next week...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 27, 2010, 04:42:36 pm
shudder.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: LJ on May 27, 2010, 04:44:50 pm
Size 14 here, Banksy you fatty...... We are gonna look soooo pretty
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy B on May 27, 2010, 04:49:13 pm
14???!!!

You must be going for a fucking body hugging look!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: LJ on May 27, 2010, 05:03:39 pm
I admit i may not have fitted it to perfection, and i may or may not resemble a pregnant lady (in a very little britain kind of way..... but hey it has great freedom of movement (it is rather body tight).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on June 07, 2010, 12:50:57 pm
I managed to cut off the top of my right hand thumb with a circular saw on saturday evening. The bone was too badly damaged for it to be sewn back on so its gone  :(
Talked to fatdoc last night who gave me some good painkiller advice but it will be months (dont know how many yet) before I can climb again
feeling pretty low so would welcome any stories anyone has come across where climbers lose part of digits and come back stronger, fitter better etc...or even can just climb again OK
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: abarro81 on June 07, 2010, 01:03:26 pm
Tommy Caldwell is the obvious one for cutting his finger off... doesn't seem to be holding him back.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 07, 2010, 01:08:59 pm
Nooo, that really is a NNFN!

How much have you got left? Is it gone back to the first joint?

I guess it'll affect pinching and full crimping but in the long run I doubt it'll make much, if any difference to most problems/routes. (Unless you love tufas...)

As long as you get the wound well healed you'll be able to modify your pinch technique and use what's left. Chin up dude, could been worse!

I doubt you'll need too long off climbing, just don't use your thumb   :whistle:

Even if you can't climb, I'd imagine you can still do pull-ups and fingerboard.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on June 07, 2010, 01:15:44 pm
dave musgrave chopped off a couple of fingers when a block fell on them.since then he red pointed 7c on his 60th birthday or just after.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on June 07, 2010, 01:20:10 pm
Ouch, sorry to hear that Dolly.

Lots of mountaineers have lost digits to frostbite, perhaps a shift in that direction?  :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 07, 2010, 01:56:10 pm
Bummer mate bad news. I can at least recommend trying not to hitch hike ;).

Saw a guy at Joe's Valley who had the half his pointer finger missing who was doing V9/10 without trying too hard. I thought it was Tommy C at first, but he spoke like a hick and his girlfriend was a full munter, so couldn't have been him.

A word of warning to me though, as I am about to embark on bouldering wall manufacture, and not known for being "good with tools". Might saw everything by hand, at least it will be good exercise. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 07, 2010, 02:01:40 pm

Saw a guy at Joe's Valley ... his girlfriend was a full munter ...  :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 07, 2010, 02:24:37 pm

A word of warning to me though, as I am about to embark on bouldering wall manufacture, and not known for being "good with tools".

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8449178763625099828# (http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8449178763625099828#)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on June 07, 2010, 03:00:02 pm
 :oops:

On the upside, at least you should get given a supply of stump cream!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rodma on June 08, 2010, 08:35:02 am
Just think of the massively increased pinch strength due to a shorter lever   8)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on June 10, 2010, 03:39:45 pm
Cheers for the replies.
I er... won't be taking up mountaineering I don't think ( I did walk up to White Ghyll 2 weekends ago though -  does that count ?)
Its just above the first joint.  I haven't had a look since I did it so I don't know how much is left. Stitches come out on Tuesday so I might look then...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 10, 2010, 03:47:13 pm
At least you will save wear 10% of wear and tear on nail clippers :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 10, 2010, 03:57:41 pm
Its just above the first joint.  I haven't had a look since I did it so I don't know how much is left. Stitches come out on Tuesday so I might look then...

Plenty left for crushing.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Robsons on June 10, 2010, 05:04:49 pm
Good luck with the thumb mate - Tommy C proves suffice inspiration - hero!

Had a proper NNFN day myself:
So two A2 pulleys have gone, along with both elbows showing signs of tendonitis (both due to a lot of time in the woody and pretty new to bouldering).
Got food poisoning.
My Disco's brakes failed on me due to wheel bearings - then the b*tard wouldn't even start...new d cap, plugs and leads needed...this also means I missed two days of work - whereby I didn't get paid!
NNFN!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on June 10, 2010, 05:26:42 pm
Good luck with the thumb mate - Tommy C proves suffice inspiration - hero!

Had a proper NNFN day myself:
So two A2 pulleys have gone, along with both elbows showing signs of tendonitis (both due to a lot of time in the woody and pretty new to bouldering).
Got food poisoning.
My Disco's brakes failed on me due to wheel bearings - then the b*tard wouldn't even start...new d cap, plugs and leads needed...this also means I missed two days of work - whereby I didn't get paid!
NNFN!

Shit, are you Paul B in disguise!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on June 13, 2010, 12:03:22 am
I managed to cut off the top of my right hand thumb with a circular saw on saturday evening..... so would welcome any stories anyone has come across where climbers lose parts of body and come back stronger, fitter better etc...or even can just climb again OK

Mate of mine was missing a pec - from birth. Doctors warned his parents that he might be quite limited physically and should start some rehab as an infant so he could countenance a normal functional life.
I think the rehab idea was a success. He climbed upto 8c. Body parts are obviously not always as essential as they would have you believe.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on June 14, 2010, 03:23:48 pm
I managed to cut off the top of my right hand thumb with a circular saw on saturday evening. The bone was too badly damaged for it to be sewn back on so its gone  :(



Any pictures ?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on June 14, 2010, 08:37:27 pm
For all those, myself included having tweaked a finger, I present this (http://www.sadtrombone.com/).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on June 18, 2010, 09:19:08 pm
None climbing NNFN, but some cunt walked into my house while I was in it (during the day) and nicked my bike. I spent £350 on it, and some bastard walks off with it in a second.  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on June 21, 2010, 10:45:56 am
Quote
Any pictures ?
I still haven't looked properly myself yet.
Got my first visit to OT this afternoon so I might have to look at what I'm doing then.
Do you really want me to post pics ? I don't think it will look very nice TBH
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on June 21, 2010, 10:56:33 am
Do you really want me to post pics ? I don't think it will look very nice TBH

Can't deny I would like to see it in a gruesome rubbernecking way. Reminds me of when you ripped out your nipple ring which IIRC got caught in a mohair jumper that you took off.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: psychomansam on June 29, 2010, 10:58:19 am
NNFN

I'm currently in bed looking at the days tv schedule rather than down the pool having a nice swim to warm up for some sport this eve.

Visited Rock Over Climbing yest to check it out and in my eagerness havedone something to my back (despite warming up and stretching well for once) Properly put it out, had to catch a taxi back across sheff from train station as couldn't walk it.

In bed with some frozen veggies at mo, (well soggy veg now) hoping its days not weeks or months. It's around the base of my back which is never a good thing, and walking makes it clunk a bit. Turning over in bed is fairly slow and painful, but at least i slept last night!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on June 29, 2010, 11:56:27 am
Get yourself to a physio mate. They can work wonders and you'll know the extent of your injuries
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: psychomansam on June 29, 2010, 12:17:22 pm
Hope your injuries are coming along alright, mine certainly pales in comparison.

Was thinking might give it a day or two and see how it is. I'm unemployed so throwing money at it isn't the easiest. But yea, if it doesn't start improving fast will have to book a session somewhere.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 29, 2010, 12:34:23 pm
Might be a pull. I pulled a muscle really badly in my shoulder the weekend before last and really suffered with it on a couple of days. Used Deep Heat and it sorted it out pretty quickly. Not sure whether you need hot or cold though if the ice seems to be working  :devangel:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on July 02, 2010, 11:11:42 pm
Decide to bring in the Uruguayan keeper and a  defender. The defender went off injured and the keeper conceded a goal.

I had also brought in Luis Suarez as everyone else in the top 5 of FF had picked Forlan, thinking I might have a chance of gaining a lead. Forlan scores, Suarez sent off  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 05, 2010, 10:39:10 am
I stopped playing a few games in as it seemed silly having all those substitutions, no budget etc. Presumably I'm last!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on July 07, 2010, 04:48:03 pm
Quote
Hope your injuries are coming along alright
Cheers -  I think they are slowly.

Just got back from the dressing clinic where I saw the senior nurse ( I think) for the first time.
I asked if she thought I'd be able to climb before the end of the year and she seemed to think that was highly likely. Mind you I'll probably be massive by then with baby soft skin and no upper body muscle.
Its probable that at the end of next week I can start changing my own dressing which will mean that Shark gets his wish and can see some pics of my stub.

I asked about anti hydral as well but she didn't seem to know about that.

Have entered a 5k race in Sherwood Pines next weekend to give myself something to aim for so I don't think about the cornice being dry for the first time in 5 years too much
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 07, 2010, 04:58:12 pm
Glad you are doing OK. Keep working back three and open hands!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on July 07, 2010, 05:00:08 pm
Cheers. Will do.  :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on July 07, 2010, 05:21:45 pm
[Its probable that at the end of next week I can start changing my own dressing which will mean that Shark gets his wish and can see some pics of my stub.

Us sharks get excited by severed body parts.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 08, 2010, 12:21:37 pm

 Mind you I'll probably be massive by then with baby soft skin and no upper body muscle.


You should join me in the "I can't climb due to injuries but am going to thrash the beastmaker and come back stronger  :thumbsup: , but with even less technique  ::) " club. It's great fun...  :whistle:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: granticus on July 08, 2010, 08:22:54 pm
Got bundled surfing at Croyde this morning (being too casual and complacent!), board in the face = fractured cheek bone.  Can't chew food because of the pain, operation to push it back into place a week today, probably followed by more days of soup eating ::)
6 weeks after that before I'm allowed to do contact sports (don't think climbing is a contact sport? ;))

 Mind you I'll probably be massive by then with baby soft skin and no upper body muscle.


You should join me in the "I can't climb due to injuries but am going to thrash the beastmaker and come back stronger  :thumbsup: , but with even less technique  ::) " club. It's great fun...  :whistle:

Sounds like a great plan and I'll probably, also, be waffa thin due to my new found eating disorder :great:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 08, 2010, 08:43:08 pm
Shitter dude, hope you like soup!

A wired jaw would certainly reverse the current waistline trend. Err...I mean, I'm training heavy.  ;)

P.S. You going to have to do something pretty stupid for climbing to be a contact sport in the cheek area  :o
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: granticus on July 08, 2010, 08:59:26 pm
Shitter dude, hope you like soup!

A wired jaw would certainly reverse the current waistline trend. Err...I mean, I'm training heavy.  ;)

P.S. You going to have to do something pretty stupid for climbing to be a contact sport in the cheek area  :o

Fortunately, by the sounds of things I won't be getting a wired jaw.  An incision will be made in the hairline (NNFN the ginger locks will have to go!) above the fracture, then they'll use some (probably scarey looking) device to push the cheek arch bone 'back out' into it's original position and ta daaa good as new (provided I don't knock it 'back in' whilst it heals).

P.S. have you ever been in one of those positions on a slab, where in order to get your centre of gravity into the wall you turn your head to the side and place your cheek against the rock?   :P  Note to self, avoid slabs!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 09, 2010, 12:05:50 pm
Not much I can say, other than sucks to be you. Hope it heals OK, and you should maybe take all the ginger locks off. And keep them off :0)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on July 10, 2010, 05:42:49 pm
Got bundled surfing at Croyde this morning (being too casual and complacent!), board in the face = fractured cheek bone.  Can't chew food because of the pain, operation to push it back into place a week today, probably followed by more days of soup eating ::)
6 weeks after that before I'm allowed to do contact sports (don't think climbing is a contact sport? ;))

 Mind you I'll probably be massive by then with baby soft skin and no upper body muscle.


You should join me in the "I can't climb due to injuries but am going to thrash the beastmaker and come back stronger  :thumbsup: , but with even less technique  ::) " club. It's great fun...  :whistle:

Sounds like a great plan and I'll probably, also, be waffa thin due to my new found eating disorder :great:


you get  one of these in your face

http://www.ortho.in/images/maxillofacial-implants-instruments/rowe-zygomatic-elevato.jpg (http://www.ortho.in/images/maxillofacial-implants-instruments/rowe-zygomatic-elevato.jpg)

that'll sort you out.

doesnt hurt too much ( apparently)

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: granticus on July 11, 2010, 12:42:31 pm
Quote


you get  one of these in your face

http://www.ortho.in/images/maxillofacial-implants-instruments/rowe-zygomatic-elevato.jpg (http://www.ortho.in/images/maxillofacial-implants-instruments/rowe-zygomatic-elevato.jpg)

that'll sort you out.

doesnt hurt too much ( apparently)
That's the fella, deffo looks like an instrument of pain!  Hope they don't leave it in there though!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on July 11, 2010, 09:38:09 pm
you'll be home either the same day.. or the day after mate...

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on July 13, 2010, 10:57:07 pm
Only just got round to posting this.
NNFN! :'(
Managed to slice my hand up whilst woodcarving last week... will be at least a few weeks before I can fully weight it, and because of where it is it's naturally splitting...  :wall:

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4791620984_7bdaa2567e.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 13, 2010, 10:59:51 pm
Only just got round to posting this.
NNFN! :'(
Managed to slice my hand up whilst woodcarving last week... will be at least a few weeks before I can fully weight it, and because of where it is it's naturally splitting...  :wall:

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4791620984_7bdaa2567e.jpg)

Holy shit, you could've wiped out 3 or 4 tendons in one swift slice!  :o
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on July 13, 2010, 11:05:51 pm
lady luck was smiling on me, it seems  ::)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on July 19, 2010, 11:01:47 pm
Went for a dressing change on Friday and had a proper look at my stub. Its really fucking weird. As well as being shorter (no surprise but still a shock) there's over granulation at the end. Apparently this is when the underlying tissue grows back more quickly than the skin can grow over the wound (medics please correct if wrong) The best way to describe it is that it looks like 2 slices of under ripe cherry attached to the top of an amputated thumb with a white bit between them -ie not human just weird. I'm sure there's a part of your brain that doesn't process this stuff in a way that assimilates it to be part of you, It looks like its from somewhere else and its hard to get ownership of it as part of me.
Having said that I'm grateful for all the length I can get (fnar fnar)
I had silver nitrate on it  to try and slow down/burn off (in my layman's terms) the excess tissue and there's been a bit more bleeding and discharge than usual although apparently that's OK.
On the positive side,  I did spend a few minutes on Friday night feeling most of the holds on my board and I can imagine that once the wound has healed I'll still be able to hold quite a lot of them. Did some pull ups and Frenchies tonight (fookin boring) and YYFY did the 5k race yesterday where I came 13th out of 87.
Its hard to explain how much I miss climbing. I'm sure anyone who has been injured like this has experienced the same thing. Its almost like my body aches for it. I'm going to move/add some of the holds on the board this week just so I can do a simple (thumb(s) off circuit I think
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: granticus on July 20, 2010, 12:00:56 am
Well I'm all fixed up now and the enforced diet is over, could chew food pretty much straight after the op. Gonna go for a mellow surf tomor as the weather is looking poo.. Just gotta avoid getting my cheek bashed again!  :)

Dolly, not quite the same but have a musician friend who chopped the end of one of his fingers off when a flight case slammed shut on him.  He's all good now and still playing to the same standard.  In my amateur medical opinion.. I reckon you'll be able to climb just fine once you're all healed up.  I guess missing something you know you will eventually be able to do again, is a whole different scenario to missing something there's no way you will do again, thinking of Paul Pritchard's description of his decision to sell his climbing gear in Totem Pole. :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 20, 2010, 07:43:24 am
Dolly, sounds like you are keeping a positive attitude which I guess is the main thing. I reckon you should be out doing some one handed slabs to keep your brain in gear if you are missing the climbing loads. Or puntering up al those mountain diffs you missed out on.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 20, 2010, 09:41:28 am
It's funny, the whole "missing climbing" thing. Loads of folk ask me if I'm missing it, and I am - but not nearly as much as I miss it when i'm fit to climb, but can't for other reasons (work, weather, etc.)

I think, maybe it's because I was told right from the start that it would be at least 9 months, that I haven't been pining for it quite as much.  :shrug:

I think it's a bit like drugs - if you're addicted and don't get them for a short time, you'll have massive withdrawal; but if you stay off them for a long time, the addiction fades.

Or maybe the beastmaker is my methadone???
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sidewinder on July 20, 2010, 10:16:40 am
there's over granulation at the end. Apparently this is when the underlying tissue grows back more quickly than the skin can grow over the wound

Hope this isn't too random, but have seen and been sympathisising with your posts.  I had some fairly prolonged healing from 3 surgeries for the same problem last year (causing me about 13 months off work and a 6 and 4 month break from climbing, I managed to sneak some in between the 2nd and 3rd surgery  ;) ).

I had lots of issues inlcuding overgranulation etc.  I had the silver nitrate a couple of times, certainly burns it back, don't know how much you had on, but mine smarted somewhat!  As a result of my experiences I went through a few different types of dressings (gauze, alginate, inadine etc.), the one that I think eventually helped me out was this stuff http://www.dressings.org/Dressings/aquacel-ag.html (http://www.dressings.org/Dressings/aquacel-ag.html) seemed to both promote healing and prevent overgranulation.

Not sure whether it would be right for you type of wound (I think it would be though, any doctors/nurses here?). Due to the silver etc. I think it is one of the top dogs in the dressings world and so quite expensive, hence not always given/given immediately, but if you are having problems might be worth asking your medical team about it.  Also on the prescriptions front, if you are going to be prescribed a load of dressings, you can pre pay for 3/12 months unlimited prescriptions for the cost of about four scripts/x scripts, saved me a fortune, but no one seems to tell you about it!

Good luck on the healing front!  Definitely sympathise with the missing climbing, that is what I missed the most, though in my case I was pretty much limited to lying on the sofa/bed so was also missing quite a lot of other things, for example the ability to go for a more than a half mile walk!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on July 20, 2010, 11:08:42 am
Codswallop.
The only dressing at present that promotes healing is Promogran, which often seemed to end up in overgranulated wounds. Admittedly it's main application is narrow and you need to know when it is appropriate, which many people don't seem to.

Whilst I love Aquacel, it is only a dressing and is no better than any other. It's great on wounds with exudate, but on dry wounds it's no better than a simple NA.

The most important thing by far is a full understanding of the wound environment, and what you need to acheive with your dressing: then you can make the right decisions on woundcare.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on July 20, 2010, 11:46:19 am
Cheers for the encouragement  :)
(I think I'll stay out of the debate on wound dressings as I'm not really qualified to comment )
TBH sidewinder the silver nitrate didn't hurt as I don't have/haven't yet grown back any nerves right at the tip. I'm going again tomorrow so I'll ask what other options are available. Good tip on the prescriptions. Are you back climbing now then?

Good luck with today's surf Granticus
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sidewinder on July 20, 2010, 02:24:03 pm
Yeah back since January, still feel weak/like a bit of a punter, but I probably always was!  Watch it on your return, massive psyche levels and tendonitis/muscle imbalance issues seem to go hand in hand!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on July 21, 2010, 03:42:23 pm
Went to dressing clinic this morning where they decided that the overgranulation at the end of my stub was too much and I need to go in for a small op to get it chopped off tomorrow (the over granulating tissue not the rest of the thumb that is)
So.... that will hopefully speed up the healing as soon as the new wound has healed.
The irony is that the doc said its almost as if I'm too healthy /too good at growing back flesh and that maybe I should eat more fried food and start smoking heavily


Here's a pretty gruesome pic of how it looked this am which I took on my phone whilst waiting for the doc.
I've tagged it NSFW just cos some people might not want to look at it - in fact no-one might apart from Shark
NSFW  :
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tAPUVH8YW7s/TEcDfK04HoI/AAAAAAAAANQ/tj8_eG80wFU/s640/IMG00195.jpg
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on July 21, 2010, 03:43:19 pm
Whoops - I haven't done that properly but am too busy to so it now
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on July 21, 2010, 03:52:46 pm
Ouch!  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on July 21, 2010, 03:57:21 pm
Here's a pretty gruesome pic of how it looked this am which I took on my phone whilst waiting for the doc.
I've tagged it NSFW just cos some people might not want to look at it - in fact no-one might apart from Shark
NSFW  :
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tAPUVH8YW7s/TEcDfK04HoI/AAAAAAAAANQ/tj8_eG80wFU/s640/IMG00195.jpg

Looks like you've got a pair of tiny testicles on the end of your stump. Is it good luck to stroke them ?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: account_inactive on July 21, 2010, 04:25:12 pm
Your stump is still bigger than my thumb!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on July 25, 2010, 11:00:00 pm
Quote
Looks like you've got a pair of tiny testicles on the end of your stump. Is it good luck to stroke them ?

Not the first time you've asked me that  ;)
They've gone now - had a quick op on Thursday so touch wood, recovery process should be escalated. Went for a run in Graves Park yesterday which felt great and had 20 mins on the board tonight  ;D. I was rubbish, skin was soft but at least I was climbing (after a fashion) again. The surgeon who did the op guessed it would be 2 months before I could be climbing again on real rock,  so even if he's a month out its still a massive plus in my book.

Quote
Your stump is still bigger than my thumb!
Really Dylan ? Have you had an accident as well ( I genuinely don't know)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: account_inactive on July 25, 2010, 11:46:30 pm
I have child hands
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 26, 2010, 09:33:40 am
At least they make your cock look big. Unless you have a tiny cock too.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Baldy on July 27, 2010, 03:01:44 pm
I feel like airing my dissapointedness with the whole world (of ukb) right now.
So much of this year has been spent injured. It's such a pain.

Earlier this year I was about to start projecting my hardest things so far and everything was going pretty sweet. Then I got an A2 pulley issue. Right before the BUCS competition and the uni fontainebleau trip.
Marvellous.
I managed to recoup my money from the trip, and even managed to climb Deliverance while I was up in Sheffield.
Then I had to spend the next month or so unable to climb (which was alright since I had uni exams to get on with)
Went to font for 2 weeks and finally started to feel alright again. climbed a few 7a and wasnt too worried about the finger again.
Then I screwed my hand bad. The last hold of big jim, pulled too hard, heard a cracky pop noise in my hand/forearm and now I have a completely unnecessary tendon strain in my right hand.
I cant even hold onto jugs without it twinging.
This year has almost been a complete write off so far, and this summer for sure.

GAH!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F on July 28, 2010, 10:40:39 am
Tripped up after a few :beer1: on Sunday afternoon and face planted  :wall: ! Two stitches above my left eye, nasty grazes on the Lhs of my face and L shouder, scrapes on both hands. Lots of other minor aches. On the bright side the forecast isn't so good so I'm not missing the conditions...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Serpico on July 28, 2010, 04:49:17 pm
Tripped up after a few :beer1: on Sunday afternoon and face planted  :wall: ! Two stitches above my left eye, nasty grazes on the Lhs of my face and L shouder, scrapes on both hands. Lots of other minor aches. On the bright side I don't have to worry about losing my looks...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F on July 29, 2010, 08:43:39 am
Tripped up after a few :beer1: on Sunday afternoon and face planted  :wall: ! Two stitches above my left eye, nasty grazes on the Lhs of my face and L shouder, scrapes on both hands. Lots of other minor aches. On the bright side I don't have to worry about losing my looks...

That's the beauty of gene's, isn't it dad?  ;) ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 29, 2010, 09:22:22 am
Tripped up after a few :beer1: on Sunday afternoon and face planted  :wall: ! Two stitches above my left eye, nasty grazes on the Lhs of my face and L shouder, scrapes on both hands. Lots of other minor aches. On the bright side I don't have to worry about losing my looks...

That's the beauty of gene's, isn't it dad?  ;) ;D

 :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on August 04, 2010, 08:54:18 pm
So just as my thumb starts to get  better (heal) it looks like I've got pleurisy  :(
I've had it before, 9 years ago, when it was worse than it is now.
I noticed that my chest hurt after running and I guessed it wasn't a heart attack.
Went to the docs on Monday, discussed it and worked out it was pleurisy, or to be precise "pleuritic in nature"
As its viral, all I can do is take ibuprofen for the inflamation,  no running or climbing and get plenty of rest. TBH I'm knackered so that's no problem.
It just means its even longer until I can climb again...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on August 04, 2010, 10:00:39 pm
They say bad luck comes in three's, so watch out, your pain must nearly over!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on August 04, 2010, 11:10:44 pm
Bad shit Dolly. No way am I touching your tiny testicles now. On the plus side you're not on antibiotics - so how about some comfort drinking to cheer you up ?  :beer1: Rising Sun Saturday night?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: jonjon on August 05, 2010, 07:10:19 am
Can I come to the pub? Three weeks of a stiff neck effectively stalled my climbing, it got better for a couple of days and then - pop - and its back to the physio again. Easy climbing for another week and no running (YYFY).

 :alky:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DaveC on August 06, 2010, 12:42:56 am
Well after more than a year of psoriatic arthritis afflicting most of my fingers and toes plus my left ankle It's now been diagnosed in the other ankle, the left shoulder and right elbow and may be incipient in the lower hip joints! About the only exercise I'm getting as walking to work in the morning - I can't even drive for any length of time as keeping my arms up to put hands on the wheel actually hurts after a while!! The rheumatologist is about to unleash some heavy treatment that apparently has a good reputation for easing the condition but can knock you about a bit - won't that be fun!!!
All rather frustrating but that's life for you.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: TobyD on August 14, 2010, 10:27:55 pm
Previous day on the Thumb, four times all the way to going for the break over the lip; got to be a dead cert on a fresg day with decent conditions.
Fresh day, decent conditions as ordered.... thumb minus important hold. Bugger.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 18, 2010, 08:39:31 pm
NNFN
just got some news about the "new" gym. it's very far from my house, options will be a long commute by car or playing my chances with bike-train-bike.
then: linear extension of the walls, goes from the previous 55 meters to 35.
then: it will be mostly vertical, with a 20° overhang.
it seems like I'll have to think way out of the box.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on August 24, 2010, 04:14:13 pm
Soooo...  I may not now have pleurisy but an inter costal muscle summat. This can produce the same or very similar symptoms to pleurisy (specific, sometimes acute pain as well as a general pain, tiredness from lack of breathing deeply enough etc )
I've had  a chest X ray and the results are fine.
I've had a look at various online resources for recovery times/appropriate exercises and am off to see the physio later,  but has anyone here had similiar with any specific knowledge on how best to recover ?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatboySlimfast on August 25, 2010, 11:37:42 am
Ive torn/pulled inter costal muscles twice, once crashing on my downhill bike and second time pulling a log over a dry stone wall(dont ask) the first was way worse and thought it was a rib for ages. Couldnt breathe properly or sleep well, was self employed at the time so had to carry on working.....rest was the major factor.
How can you mistake a pulled inter costal with pleurisy by the way??????
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on August 25, 2010, 04:33:03 pm
Quote
How can you mistake a pulled inter costal with pleurisy by the way??????

I don't know TBH. Isn't viral pleurisy usually a diagnosis by default ? - ie describe symptoms, symptoms seem to fit those of pleurisy so therefore its probably pleurisy. By diagnosis by default I mean AFAIK there are no definitive tests for it, so its a case of ruling out other things ?

Having said all that I went to see Jenny at Meadowhead Physiotherapy last night which was very interesting. She's been spot on every time either I or the boss have been, so thought it was worth a go. After looking at me breathe from various angles and then breathing with my arms in different positions she thought it looked like a) it might be something to do with the thoracic vertebrae and b) I only breathe with the top of my chest.

She worked her way up the vertebrae manipulating each one,  then when she got to the 9th it killed - I nearly jumped off the couch. Not sure if that's the cause or symptom or just tied in with the whole thing (I know for example that the outer pleural membrane is connected/related to the intercostals)
If its the cause then it could explain the pain (nerves and muscles) as well as the breathlessness and tiredness.
Seemed to make sense to me -especially when she suggested I should try gentle climbing again (see YYFY thread :)
Also got some breathing exercises to do to see how that changes things.

Anyway I'll go back in 10 days time to assess the pain/mobility etc. For now I'm very happy to take that and see where I get to. 



Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2010, 08:03:10 pm
b) I only breathe with the top of my chest.

Guess what form of exercise can help with that? :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on August 25, 2010, 09:19:55 pm
b) I only breathe with the top of my chest.

Guess what form of exercise can help with that? :)

Campussing!  :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on August 25, 2010, 10:12:48 pm
Quote
Quote from: SA Chris on Today at 08:03:10 pm

    Quote from: Dolly on Today at 04:33:03 pm

        b) I only breathe with the top of my chest.


    Guess what form of exercise can help with that? :)


Campussing!  :P

OMG I think he means the Y word  :o
Does that mean I'll become even weaker than I am ATM ?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 26, 2010, 10:37:46 am
Quote
Quote from: SA Chris on Today at 08:03:10 pm

    Quote from: Dolly on Today at 04:33:03 pm

        b) I only breathe with the top of my chest.


    Guess what form of exercise can help with that? :)


Campussing!  :P

OMG I think he means the Y word  :o
Does that mean I'll become even weaker than I am ATM ?

Word on the Y word.

Might make you a bit weaker, but may also improve your stamina if learn to breathe properly.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on September 08, 2010, 05:40:59 am
at the airport at 5:15am and the flight is canceled! Seems im not going to china this week. Still, it is/was a work trip, so could be worse...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on September 08, 2010, 08:58:42 am
at the airport at 5:15am and the flight is canceled! Seems im not going to china this week. Still, it is/was a work trip, so could be worse...

You should tweet something about them having to sort their shit out or else (http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/libertycentral/2010/may/11/tweet-joke-criminal-record-airport)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on September 08, 2010, 01:02:54 pm
Little did I realise I would be waiting in a queue for 5.5 HOURS to rebook the flight. Sheesh. The grumpy ineffectual staff really made it entertaining, though the nice lady behind the desk who spent 5.5 hrs rebooking people was very nice...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on September 08, 2010, 01:19:40 pm
though the nice lady behind the desk who spent 5.5 hrs rebooking people was very nice...

People who do jobs like that are amazingly good at biting their tongue, there's a good reason I don't work in customer services, because most people would be seeing (http://themixingbowl.org/static/img/smilies/thefinger.gif)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on September 08, 2010, 09:51:44 pm
I guess the long stayers are good at it, but the low skill crowd guidance peeps are just in it cos its a job near where they live with flexible hours, I assume.
I found a new basic job today that sets a standard for no skills employment: Keeping two queues seperate and advising people which queue was the one for them. That is a basic job. Even more amazingly, over the course of an hour I watched somebody who couldn't even do this job well! Amazing low skill levels on show.

I was a long time outdoor shop drone and I actually am really good at sorting people out, being helpful and that. I used to take particular pleasure in being really especially nice and helpful to rude tosspots. Passed the time I guess.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 09, 2010, 11:30:36 am
though the nice lady behind the desk who spent 5.5 hrs rebooking people was very nice...

People who do jobs like that are amazingly good at biting their tongue, there's a good reason I don't work in customer services, because most people would be seeing (http://themixingbowl.org/static/img/smilies/thefinger.gif)

Sounds like a career for you in CS at RyanAir then!  ;)

(actually, I'm not sure if I'm being ironic or not here - no slant on your character slackers, more that RyanAir CS seem to have the fkcu you attitude!)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on September 09, 2010, 12:23:09 pm
They're cunts to their staff too apparently, my wife's friend is a pilot for them, and they don't get accommodation if they have to stay over-night at any given destination.  Not surprising staff are hacked off.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on September 09, 2010, 08:48:07 pm
I guess the long stayers are good at it, but the low skill crowd guidance peeps are just in it cos its a job near where they live with flexible hours, I assume.
I found a new basic job today that sets a standard for no skills employment: Keeping two queues seperate and advising people which queue was the one for them. That is a basic job. Even more amazingly, over the course of an hour I watched somebody who couldn't even do this job well! Amazing low skill levels on show.

I was a long time outdoor shop drone and I actually am really good at sorting people out, being helpful and that. I used to take particular pleasure in being really especially nice and helpful to rude tosspots. Passed the time I guess.

dont get a job in NHS management, you are over qualified... seriously.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatkid2000 on September 09, 2010, 10:05:14 pm

dont get a job in NHS management, you are over qualified... seriously.


From the man that does it! Can't wait to become Fatdoc's boss - role on commissioning.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on September 10, 2010, 10:29:33 am
Quote
I found a new basic job today
I don't mean I found a job for my self to actually do. I found a job to write up in my book of shit jobs is what I ment.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 19, 2010, 02:21:01 pm
That reminds me of those people you see at Asda holding signs pointing to empty tills. What a job!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on September 19, 2010, 08:45:11 pm
or the really over weight people holding signs pointing the direction to mcdonalds, just makes you think ill give that a miss.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 19, 2010, 08:52:59 pm
or the really over weight people holding signs pointing the direction to mcdonalds, just makes you ill
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 19, 2010, 09:34:38 pm
or the really over weight people holding signs pointing the direction to mcdonalds, just makes you ill, unless you're fiend.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on September 19, 2010, 09:47:30 pm
Spent months getting to the end of World 8 on Blob 1's DSi.  She haqd friends round tonight amd they've deleted all my saved levels so I have to start all over again.


NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Yeah on September 20, 2010, 04:14:49 pm
Managed to tear a muscle near my knee apparently.  Worst part is i have no idea how i did it. Went to bed friday feeling fine, woke up saturday with a swollen knee and the inabilty to walk. I cant do anything but rest it for 2 weeks  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: neil h on September 20, 2010, 09:27:44 pm
i have just been to the toilet

after making a chillie  :oops:

anyone got any ice
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 21, 2010, 12:19:51 am
Eat vaseline before eating the chilli/going for a shit. Works a treat. I know it's too late for that now, maybe try pouring milk on it?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on September 21, 2010, 07:14:38 am
You could just man up, Neil   :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 21, 2010, 10:22:32 am
they've deleted all my saved levels so I have to start all over again.

You have to buy your own, it's the only safe way.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: remus on September 26, 2010, 12:53:39 pm
Some cunt's stolen my bike:
(http://www.pearsoncycles.co.uk/images/prod_2503.jpg)

She wasn't the most expensive ride, but still :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Scouse D on September 26, 2010, 03:49:06 pm
they wont get far, it's got no pedals.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on September 26, 2010, 03:56:44 pm
they wont get far, it's got no pedals.

I thought the same thing, but opted not to comment as it'd make me look like an unfeeling bastard :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: remus on September 26, 2010, 07:37:23 pm
they wont get far, it's got no pedals.

Unfortunately it had my mates pedals attached to it :lol:

On the bright side, should be getting a tidy sum from the insurance so will be able to :alky: my sorrows in to submission.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 26, 2010, 08:33:45 pm
they wont get far, it's got no pedals.

Unfortunately it had my mates pedals attached to it :lol:

On the bright side, should be getting a tidy sum from the insurance so will be able to :alky: my sorrows in to submission.

and with no bike to ride you will not be at risk of being drunk in charge  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 28, 2010, 12:18:24 pm
 :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
my much awaited november uk invasion has just been cancelled, before even starting to sort things out.
I will have to run three different courses in  novemeber, so that's no point in even asking.
this really sucks.
any suggestion for a good weather window in 2011, for both grit and lime?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on September 28, 2010, 07:13:19 pm
February is your best bet Lore.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on September 28, 2010, 07:46:07 pm
the cunts who are supposed to buying our house have fucked us off to buy another across the village.

THE BASTARDS.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 28, 2010, 07:50:43 pm
the cunts who are supposed to buying our house have fucked us off to buy another across the village.

THE BASTARDS.

There seems to be a real lack of decency and honour between people when they buy houses... when I sold mine the people fucked me about until the last min (including forcing a last gasp 2k reduction)... my sympathies Webbo...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on September 28, 2010, 08:09:08 pm
these cunts have bought our house 3 times but the chain broke down with their buyers.we set a date for the 5/10/10 but that wasn't ok but they said that wasn't acceptable so we settled for the 15th only to be told today that was too far away so they were pulling out.we then find they've had an offer accepted on another place on the otherside of the village.
anybody got any suggestions on how to back at them other than telling the rest of the village they've cost us about £1500 and how they ostracise them.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 28, 2010, 08:15:43 pm
Find out what house they are buying and tell the sellers. At worst you'll be doing someone some good out of the whole thing...
Failing that a turd in a jiffy bag might work wonders  :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on September 29, 2010, 09:06:47 am
they are aware but i guess they are unlikely to give up on a sale.this is not only a pisser for our family but it means i will no longer be buying up all the spare boards in the east riding to turn the double garage at the new gaff in a premier training venue.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bobling on October 26, 2010, 07:13:54 pm
Went to the local bouldering wall (TCA Bristol) for the first time today after a summer spent climbing outside.  Got thrashed by the problems, a complete amateur punterish performance, by my mate who I  first took climbing about a year ago and to add insult to injury got seven flappers (two on one finger!). NNFN!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 27, 2010, 01:30:22 pm
My right big toe has been feeling a bit more strange and hurty for the last 6 months. Last night it erupted into a full-on gout attack  :furious:

Woke me up with shooting burning pains interspersed with toothachey throbbing; couldn't even cope with the duvet touching it.

Diclofenac made it possible to get socks and shoes on this morning (at least I didn't have to go to work in socks'n' sandals) and has continued to make my limp a bit less pathetic.

Worst of all; I had a good chance of getting out on grit this afternoon. Won't be getting any bouldering done for a while  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 27, 2010, 02:13:46 pm
Won't that just mask the pain? You doing anything else to get rid of it, diet wise etc?

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 27, 2010, 03:01:52 pm
Feeling your pain bro'
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 27, 2010, 05:03:22 pm
Man, thats bad news Lagers - how long does it take for things to ease back again?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: remus on October 27, 2010, 08:16:19 pm
Fell off Archangel and muntered my foot, cue lots of NNFN. On the YYFY side, some rather pleasant people helped me down and gave me a lift to the train station, and word from the doc is its not broken.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 27, 2010, 09:55:39 pm
You doing anything else to get rid of it, diet wise etc?

Lost a stone and a half since the last gout session. Drinking more moderately than at any time since I started climbing. Stopped taking Allopurinol a while back and uric acid levels have stayed low.

how long does it take for things to ease back again?

About 2 years last time - but that felt like a midge bite to start with and slowly built up. This time feels like a totally different event. I hope that a quick onset of high pain means a quick subsidence of pain.

Feeling loads better and am still one tablet below the max daily dose.

One good thing about it is that the drugs stop me feeling any finger pain, so have had a great finger board session whilst cooking tea  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 27, 2010, 10:03:12 pm
Beast! hope it clears up soon, you've been in crushing form....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 28, 2010, 09:39:39 am
You doing anything else to get rid of it, diet wise etc?

Lost a stone and a half since the last gout session. Drinking more moderately than at any time since I started climbing. Stopped taking Allopurinol a while back and uric acid levels have stayed low.


There's loads of other random things that are believed to contribute, worth a bit of googling. Hope it clears up anyway.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 29, 2010, 06:27:33 pm
i got crystallization gout for almost all of last year on and off and couldnt do any exercise due to joints flaring up, gained about three stone and now its coming off again. i now drink a litre and a half bottle of water everyday at work and that has really helped. doc thinks i have one kidney thats not to efficient so thats why i got it at such a young age. its also hereditary and both grandads and dad get it, so worth seeing if it runs in the family. diet is usually only a very small part of it and is actually a bit of a myth.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 29, 2010, 10:07:16 pm
50mg Dicklofenac three times a day has made a HUGE difference. No longer limping and can actually bend my toe. The under side of the toe is still v painful to touch, but nothing like it was. Feeling rather YYFY even though I won't be able to wear proper rock shoes on my birthday  :'(  :thumbsup:  :'(  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mark s on October 31, 2010, 12:52:12 am
Not bouldering but a serious nnnnnnnnnnnnfnooooooo after sat around for 2 hours waiting for andi whilst failing on moon crack I got proper cold.thought a nice warm up on peapod would get the blood warming nicely.got myself facing the wrong way at the top and was pumped till may 2015,had to let go!got back on and did it differant steadily.hey ho we all have bad day.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 31, 2010, 09:47:27 am
fucked up my right ankle again, yesterday. nothing serious (my legaments are already broken) but I can't climb (and I can't do more beastmaker than I already do). BORING AS HELL.
the real NNFN is that before getting injured I climbed like una merda.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on October 31, 2010, 09:55:42 am
hey ho we all have bad grit HVS days.

The beauty of gritstone climbing Mark  :)


Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 31, 2010, 04:27:35 pm
The sun is setting and its 4:30pm.

Goodbye evenings at the crag.. see you in the spring...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on October 31, 2010, 04:35:54 pm
The sun is setting and its 4:30pm.

Goodbye evenings at the crag.. see you in the spring...

The light disappears as the friction arrives. Which would you rather...  :devangel:

There's always torch sessions....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Krank on November 01, 2010, 09:15:58 am
after 31 glorious days in the forest i'm back in work again :'(, NNFN.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on November 01, 2010, 09:42:34 am
I hope you're not expecting us to be sympathetic!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Krank on November 01, 2010, 09:55:13 am
ha ha ha, no not really, but its was a shock to be reminded how crap real life is compared to gypsy forest life. oh well, only 117 days til i get to go back.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on November 01, 2010, 06:27:25 pm
A while ago Ansys took over Fluent, in doing so they ripped the carpet out from underneath me by removing my standalone academic license. In doing so they promised a University wide license that would grant me the same privileges, this isn't yet working.
No sweat, I can run a 'version' at home. No I can't, as now my dekstop is f*cked. Oh well, then there's the university grid computing system for batch processing, its more hassle for small jobs but I can use that. Oh wait a minute, is that another licensing f*ckup, indeed it is. So now I have absolutely no way of progessing my work until one of the above is rectified. All this just as my funding expires. Fantastic.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kilgore1080 on November 02, 2010, 06:09:56 pm
Almscliffe claimed my right ankle as a trophy on Saturday afternoon. Hospital doesn't "think" I've broken anything and suspects I've wankered the ligaments (my words not theirs) but as its ridiculously swollen they can't really be sure, either way it looks like a fat old diabetic American's ankle and I won't be climbing for a while. :furious:

NNFN (or Complete Utter Nonsensical Twaddle)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 02, 2010, 06:13:47 pm
Almscliffe claimed my right ankle as a trophy on Saturday afternoon. Hospital doesn't "think" I've broken anything and suspects I've wankered the ligaments (my words not theirs) but as its ridiculously swollen they can't really be sure, either way it looks like a fat old diabetic American's ankle and I won't be climbing for a while. :furious:

NNFN (or Complete Utter Nonsensical Twaddle)

Thats a bitch... time to get working on those pullups! What problem did she punish you on?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on November 02, 2010, 06:14:56 pm
they didn't x-ray?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kilgore1080 on November 02, 2010, 06:29:08 pm
Almscliffe claimed my right ankle as a trophy on Saturday afternoon. Hospital doesn't "think" I've broken anything and suspects I've wankered the ligaments (my words not theirs) but as its ridiculously swollen they can't really be sure, either way it looks like a fat old diabetic American's ankle and I won't be climbing for a while. :furious:

NNFN (or Complete Utter Nonsensical Twaddle)

Thats a bitch... time to get working on those pullups! What problem did she punish you on?

I'm not totally sure as it was the first time I've climbed there but I think it was on the Ed's Dyno block opposite The Keel, I was just warming down trying some eliminates on it, heel slid off, took me with it and landed heel on the edge of the mat with the rest of my foot off, momentum and gravity did the rest and left me looking like someone had shoved half a tennis ball under my skin. Still, manned it up and walked back down to Wheeton station.


Jim - They did xray but seemed pretty non-committal about about whether I'd broken anything, used expressions such as "As far as we can see/tell", "Doesn't look like its broken", "We'll know for sure when the swelling's gone down" all led me to the conclusion they couldn't tell from the xray due to the swelling.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 02, 2010, 06:35:40 pm
I've whacked my hip plopping off the 6c traverse on that block (one of my favourite Almscliff shuffles) so my sympathies... I think when the swelling dips down you'll know if its been bust or not.... in the meantime RICE...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kilgore1080 on November 02, 2010, 07:37:18 pm
Aye yeah RICE has been my friend so far.

Cheers for the karma (my first!), she did indeed bend me over and give me a good  :spank:

I'll be back up there asap though, feeling her curves and getting my fingers in her cracks!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 02, 2010, 10:04:12 pm
She is such a cruel mistress, but she is worth it. Hope it gets better soon!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F on November 03, 2010, 08:19:40 am
I've got a parents evening in Southport next Wednesday and Big Ron is doing his talk in Liverpool at the same time NNFN  :wall: :wall: :wall:  :furious: :furious: :furious: >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: neil h on November 03, 2010, 10:15:57 pm
I've got a parents evening in Southport next Wednesday and Big Ron is doing his talk in Liverpool at the same time NNFN  :wall: :wall: :wall:  :furious: :furious: :furious: >:(


simple tell the other half to go to parents eve alone  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on November 03, 2010, 10:27:12 pm
 :lol: He's the teacher, Neil.

might work though  :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chris_j_s on November 05, 2010, 09:48:25 am
NNFN, busted a finger last night at the wall. A4 pulley went with quite a bang - the Mrs thought I'd pulled a hold off the wall!

Absolutely gutted as I have been going quite well recently.  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kilgore1080 on November 05, 2010, 11:28:24 am
Update on my ankle for any that's interested:

Definitely not broken, damaged ligaments though, Doc reckons about 4 to 6 weeks until I'm back on track but then I'll have to give it longer to fully heal. Gotta have physio too, joy of joys! Its annoying but considering what I did and where I did it it could've been a hell of lot worse. Especially whilest waiting to be seen and glancing around and seeing people with missing legs etc, put my injury into perspective I must say.

Oh well, guess I'll be dusting off the Iron Gym for a while and upping my post count on here!


chris_j_s: Ouch! you have my sympathy mate, get fixed soon.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Baldy on November 09, 2010, 12:52:11 pm
A big bloody flapper from the wall last night.
hidden for those of you who might not like the red stuff.

NSFW  :
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1157.snc4/149933_1560345101254_1614090061_1371242_3830483_n.jpg)

Gaddammit! At least there isn't a competition this weekend.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rodma on November 10, 2010, 08:36:08 am
Yeah, otherwise you might have to wear a plaster  ;)

That's a beauty. Was it caused by dry skin or rapey holds or cold weather or all three?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Baldy on November 10, 2010, 12:36:39 pm
The skin on that finger was fully fresh, I tried to hold a swing on a fingerjuggy type hold (inside) and I just about did...right up until the skin blew and I fell off.

Already looks loads better - little bit of climbon and some covering works marvels.

Going back today to try and finish it off. I hope it holds up  :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mini on November 19, 2010, 05:33:00 pm
I was hoping to but this in the YYFY thread, but alas;

After an 18 month lay-off from climbing due to lack of motivation and training for other events, I finally get my mojo back and hit the local walls this week - YYFY  :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

However, whilst taking it easy and pottering on some easier routes (a slabby little number that required a press down in order to get my foot on the same hold as my hand) I somehow managed to crack a tendon in my thumb - NNFN  :o  :o :o

Guess it's the price you pay for putting on a little extra pud!  ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Eddies on November 19, 2010, 06:17:38 pm
NOOOOOoooooooo  :'(
Gutted mate
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mark s on November 20, 2010, 09:32:03 am


Guess it's the price you pay for putting on a little extra pud!  ;D

 :o you are having a laugh

im sure your finger will be ok,shall head out later if one fancies it
busy watching take that on youtube at the moment
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mini on November 20, 2010, 10:23:32 am
busy watching take that on youtube at the moment

That deserves a NNFN post in its own right :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 20, 2010, 11:31:33 am
busy watching take that on youtube at the moment

That deserves a NNFN post in its own right :-\
:agree:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on November 20, 2010, 11:48:25 am
im sure your finger will be ok,shall head out later if one fancies it
busy watching take that on youtube at the moment

I have to agree, their latest material is pretty listenable  :-*
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F on November 20, 2010, 12:00:04 pm
Rich, you almost deserve a puntering for that statement  :o
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: stonemonkey on November 20, 2010, 03:06:09 pm
had a little scare on the shunt yesterday  :thumbsdown: . Slipped whilst workin a route compressng the shunt between me and the rock so started to fall, grabbed the rope and now have 7 metres worth of rope burn that has melted my skin right through  :'(

serves me righ for not tying a not beneath me..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mark s on November 20, 2010, 03:15:40 pm
im sure your finger will be ok,shall head out later if one fancies it
busy watching take that on youtube at the moment

I have to agree, their latest material is pretty listenable  :-*

i thought they were fucking brilliant on children in need.
i missed out on them first time around as i was into my heavy metal phase.
im only recapturing a long gone youth
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Eddies on November 20, 2010, 06:12:07 pm
Take That   :devangel:  Heavy Metal


Thinking of replacing that studded belt of yours for a sequinned one!?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: iain_cbr on November 23, 2010, 06:22:05 pm
After having a shitload of time off climbing to bring up my kids  :boohoo: and doing fuck all of any use to man or beast, I got back in the saddle and today fucked off to Longridge.

Just before I left the house, I saw on the longridge site the epitaph "where the strong come to get stronger and the weak get spanked".

I'll consider myself spanked.

Must try harder.....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chris05 on November 23, 2010, 06:25:30 pm
im sure your finger will be ok,shall head out later if one fancies it
busy watching take that on youtube at the moment

I have to agree, their latest material is pretty listenable  :-*

i thought they were fucking brilliant on children in need.
i missed out on them first time around as i was into my heavy metal phase.
im only recapturing a long gone youth

Oh dear first x-factor and now take that? I thought you were hoping for the end of manufactured bands etc?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on November 23, 2010, 07:03:02 pm
Quote
After having a shitload of time off climbing to bring up my kids  :boohoo: and doing fuck all of any use to man or beast, I got back in the saddle and today fucked off to Longridge.

Just before I left the house, I saw on the longridge site the epitaph "where the strong come to get stronger and the weak get spanked".

I'll consider myself spanked.

Must try harder.....

Surely that is a YYFY? If you had spent the last decade doing no climbing and on your first trip to Longridge you ticked everything, would life have any meaning at all? What would be the point?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 23, 2010, 07:28:25 pm
,I got back in the saddle

Need to do similar soon. start the hard road back.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mark s on November 24, 2010, 10:00:16 pm
im sure your finger will be ok,shall head out later if one fancies it
busy watching take that on youtube at the moment

I have to agree, their latest material is pretty listenable  :-*
so fucking what if i like a bit of take that

i thought they were fucking brilliant on children in need.
i missed out on them first time around as i was into my heavy metal phase.
im only recapturing a long gone youth

Oh dear first x-factor and now take that? I thought you were hoping for the end of manufactured bands etc?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: grumpycrumpy on November 25, 2010, 09:11:05 am
aLICErOBERTSfankLUB and myself came so close to finishing the Private Eye crossword in one sitting last night ......
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on December 22, 2010, 12:14:55 am
NNFN!

I think this picture says it all. Fell off the other day on the purple circuit ironically.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=478656830937&set=a.478656770937.258687.502480937 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=478656830937&set=a.478656770937.258687.502480937)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on December 22, 2010, 10:31:26 am
will you guys stop linking to facebook and ukc! damn you all, we don't all have to go that way
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 22, 2010, 10:46:28 am
There are hundreds of Lee Andersons, which one is you so I can friend you??
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 22, 2010, 11:02:06 am
NNFN!

I think this picture says it all. Fell off the other day on the purple circuit ironically.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=478656830937&set=a.478656770937.258687.502480937 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=478656830937&set=a.478656770937.258687.502480937)

Looks proper fucked. You had it checked out?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on December 22, 2010, 12:54:21 pm
I'm thinking I probably should. Since now my toes are swollen as well. Can't be good!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 22, 2010, 01:09:05 pm
Get it Xrayed at least. When I fucked mine I thought it was just a sprain, and never got one. 2 months down the line it still looked like an old ladies ankel. I was massaging it one evening and it gave an almighty clunk and got better within a week. Seems I had dislocated something too, which would have been picked up with an X ray and ben manipulated back into place and would ahve recovered in half the time
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rodma on December 23, 2010, 08:41:38 am
That is an interesting colour.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on December 23, 2010, 11:04:20 am
There are hundreds of Lee Andersons, which one is you so I can friend you??

i'll be the one that pressed "ignore"
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on December 24, 2010, 09:24:02 pm
Black beauty slipped on black ice and hit her nose on a tree today. The recovery bloke reckoned she'd be a write-off, although there wasn't really that much damage. Arsecakes.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on December 24, 2010, 09:37:38 pm
Dickhead.

(http://surferjerry.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/horse-stuck-in-tree.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on December 24, 2010, 09:39:20 pm
Cheers.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 24, 2010, 09:41:37 pm
Dickhead.

(http://surferjerry.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/horse-stuck-in-tree.jpg)

 :agree: Poor beauty.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on December 24, 2010, 09:42:49 pm
What tale have you spun to your folks?



and say hi to your mum for me.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 24, 2010, 09:46:07 pm
say hi to your mum for me.

Chris also says hi.  :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on December 24, 2010, 10:00:41 pm
My car was stolen by hippies complaining about the smog that poured out of the back end and driven off the edge of a tall cliff. Luckily they forgot to get out.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on December 25, 2010, 06:22:22 am
I was going to post an amusing picture, but I got a bit distracted after Googling for "Breaking Black Beauty Facial".
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on December 28, 2010, 02:11:45 pm
Bad News (http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1341938/Ice-climber-plunges-death-frozen-Yorkshire-Dales-waterfall.html)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on January 04, 2011, 03:29:13 pm
Three split tips and no tick. Boo  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 04, 2011, 03:30:36 pm
Bad News (http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1341938/Ice-climber-plunges-death-frozen-Yorkshire-Dales-waterfall.html)

Terrible news. I had done it the day before an the ice was bad then.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Probes on January 04, 2011, 05:09:29 pm
Yep this is terrible. I too did the route on boxing day around dusk, and got myself into a proper pickle on it, couldnt tell you how many times my feet pinged. Plus it was awkward as hell stepping round some of the big blobs.
Damn shame, tis a dangerous/tragic game at times.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: hairich on January 04, 2011, 09:12:51 pm
1 my aunt died
2 the earl is poorly
3 the car gearbox ate itself
4 our kitchen sink is blocked
5 wood burner screwed
6 le mountain bike fooked
7 cant get work
8 vat gone up today

bloody great start to the new year
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JamieG on January 11, 2011, 01:40:45 pm
I just listened to this and it has ruined my day. Iron and Wine are a lost cause.

Iron & Wine - Biting Your Tail (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q09Wwgy3eD8#)

Quick where is my Woman King EP!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on January 21, 2011, 01:25:45 pm
The house we want to buy has come up with major work needing doing likely to cost thousands...
probably going to pull out, losing search and survey fees, NNFN!!!



to be fair there are worse NNFNs...better to lose now than sink money into a black hole...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 21, 2011, 01:38:07 pm
The house we want to buy has come up with major work needing doing likely to cost thousands...
probably going to pull out, losing search and survey fees, NNFN!!!



to be fair there are worse NNFNs...better to lose now than sink money into a black hole...

If you want to take the work on you can always get quotes and knock the money off??
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on January 21, 2011, 02:20:44 pm
Bummer, Pasty.  Hope it all gets sorted!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 21, 2011, 02:25:20 pm
The house we want to buy has come up with major work needing doing likely to cost thousands...
probably going to pull out, losing search and survey fees, NNFN!!!



to be fair there are worse NNFNs...better to lose now than sink money into a black hole...

If you want to take the work on you can always get quotes and knock the money off??

 :agree:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on January 21, 2011, 02:42:23 pm
I agree with the above. I know you've got a little nipper so may not be keen for the mess but a handful of quotes and a bit of hardball negotiation could be worthwhile.
What sort of things are the problems? And how sure are you that the problems are major? What sort of survey did you spunk for?

If the problem is really bad you may be able to justify buying a digger, which is awesome. From shit grows roses and all that...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on January 21, 2011, 03:13:27 pm
I guess 'major' is subjective
scope of work is as follows so far: Cavity wall tie replacements, flat roof replacement, lintel replacements, groundworks to tap/drain a spring (!?!) in the garden, terracing said garden for't' nipper to ride a bike in (serious hill issues) replacement windows, possible new boiler and electrics. WE'd want to put french doors in too, and the raised decked area will need replacing/repairing as it has wet rot.
I can free up enough cash to get it all  done, and they may even come down a bit, but the main issue for me is the spring in the garden - we've been told that it's difficult to tell where the source is coming from which makes me jittery to say the least!
Plus it's realistic that the work will take 6 months at the outset before redecoration. To be honest, with a 6 wk old, it's not feasible, at least Mrs rginns doesn't think it is, and let's face it, she holds the purse strings...

This is just from the valuation report that we spunked for, so doesn't include further stuff that may come up.

Current thinking is that a nice uncomplicated finished house with a biggish flat garden for child to have a swing and a run around in is a better option. It certainly seems I'd have less stress in the next 6 months!!  :shrug: :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 21, 2011, 03:19:43 pm

Current thinking is that a nice uncomplicated finished house with a biggish flat garden for child to have a swing and a run around in is a better option. It certainly seems I'd have less stress in the next 6 months!!  :shrug: :-\

Agree. If I was you I would be busting out my longer bargepole and walk away.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 21, 2011, 03:23:48 pm
Hmmm. Apart from the spring, was the rest of the stuff not apparent before you got the valuation done? I'm trying not to sound like a condescending twat but stuff like needing replacement windows / age of the boiler / rotting decking and a great big hill that needs flattening would be things you'd already know about before you spent money on survey / search fees non?

Completely understand not wanting to take a project on with a six week old in tow. Just wonder why this place seemed a better idea than.....



 a nice uncomplicated finished house with a biggish flat garden for child to have a swing and a run around


....in the first place?  :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on January 21, 2011, 03:31:49 pm
THe location is perfect.
Total case of rose tinted 'aaahh it'll be reet, just needs a bit of filler that' type thinking from someone who isn't particularly practically minded.
The space in the house is great.
Think I was preferring not to think about the difficulties, in the hope that they'd go away.
They didn't, and then we did the sums and an easy life seems like a better option.
It's a shame because the house is perfect.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 21, 2011, 03:35:48 pm
The spring is probably one of those "we dont really know what to say here so we have to say the worst just in case someone sues our arses" type statements from the surveyer.. when they're nto sure about something they always err on the side of caution.. You may well find if you speak to someone in the know that its actually no problem...

Like you say though - its an arse living in a building site for  few months, and an even bigger arse having to manage it all...

It is a buyers market though.. plenty more fish in the sea etc..?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 21, 2011, 03:37:24 pm

It's a shame because the house is perfect.

Souds pretty fucking far from perfect to me!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 21, 2011, 03:42:35 pm
Rose tinted.....fair enough. Cut your losses and run, as mentioned it's certainly a buyers market!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rodma on January 21, 2011, 05:24:59 pm

It's a shame because the house is perfect.

Souds pretty fucking far from perfect to me!

My thought's exactly.

Even if the fabric of the house were perfect, it's built on a fucking spring.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on January 21, 2011, 09:41:44 pm
Aye the words losses and cutting does spring to mind... and drawing, back, board and to.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on January 27, 2011, 04:31:59 pm
Well after a shit conversation I pulled out of the purchase which meant that the vendor womans sale also fell through. Ah well. Complicated by the fact the estate agent is a friend of ours :-\

Get a phone call 2 hours later to say she's dropping the price by 10k  :o  :o
food for thought...but 10k for a spring? hmmm let me think about that... :-\

no.


The upshot is now that we've been accepted on a bigger house that needs FORK ALL doing to it. And the garage is a yard wider. Awesome. NNFN to a YYFY in a week.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on January 27, 2011, 04:47:40 pm
I hope the garage has a pointy roof.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on January 27, 2011, 04:52:10 pm
Nope, but should need re-doing in a few years... :P
2 steps down into garage though, so head room isn't too bad.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: north_country_boy on January 27, 2011, 04:52:33 pm
Only Fools And Horses - Christmas Special 1992 - Mothers Nature's Son - Part 4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ef0dWD9ccc#)

But just think of the entrepreneurial money making opportunities your missing out on? ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on January 27, 2011, 07:00:36 pm
don't worry about the house problems, you should of definately taken off your rose tinted specs before you plugged money into it tho.
We have just been gazumped!(practically unheard of in this day and age) on the house we were buying, luckily we hadn't spent any money on it (only just tho), put in a slightly higher offer, if not we are pretty psyched for our 2nd choice
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 31, 2011, 12:03:53 pm
head aches in the afternoons.

poor night vision

tried on a colleagues glasses

I'm off to the optician


 :'(



Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 31, 2011, 12:37:22 pm
Poor night vision was the pointer for me - driving on motnorways and just about being on the offramp before I could read signs. That was in my mid 20s. Luckily they haven't got that much worse since. Get used to disposable contact lenses asap.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2011, 12:55:45 pm
Aside from the cost is there still a stigma associated with needing corrections to your vision?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 31, 2011, 01:03:11 pm
like i give a fuck about that...


been thinkin...

I'm the oldest person in our dept without  some sort of glasses / eye need.

might have has this for years...

defo worse though...

we'll see what the optician says...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 31, 2011, 01:10:03 pm
Chris is right. Disposable contacts are the don (coupled with a pair of glasses for when you can't be bothered to put contacts in). Being part of team blind isn't nearly such a pain in the arse nowadays.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2011, 01:11:29 pm
like i give a fuck about that...


So why is it a NNFN?!?!?  :shrug:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 31, 2011, 01:14:13 pm
I think he misunderstood your crap pun.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on January 31, 2011, 01:37:16 pm
if you use vdu's at work then your employer is supposed to contribute towards your opticians/glasses bill I think.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dobbin on January 31, 2011, 01:43:00 pm
I think there might be some get out clause for employers, along the lines of if you have reason to walk around a bit or something they dont have to pay. A percentage of your time at your desk sort of thing.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2011, 01:45:10 pm
I think he misunderstood your crap pun.

Pun was unintentional (only realised after writing it, opted to leave it in though), but if fatdoc isn't worried about cost or having to wear glasses why is it a NNFN?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 31, 2011, 02:04:32 pm
If it wasn't a crap pun, why do you think there is a stigma attached to anyone needing corrections to their vision?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2011, 02:15:24 pm
If it wasn't a crap pun, why do you think there is a stigma attached to anyone needing corrections to their vision?

I don't think there is which is why I asked fatdoc if there was one for him (which might explain why he see's this as a NNFN issue, the other reason I could think of was the associated cost).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 31, 2011, 09:17:30 pm
I think he misunderstood your crap pun.

Pun was unintentional (only realised after writing it, opted to leave it in though), but if fatdoc isn't worried about cost or having to wear glasses why is it a NNFN?

coz it means I'm old.... cmon... its not exactly a good start to the week is it??

never mind the cost...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 31, 2011, 09:46:06 pm
Look on the bright side, if glass mean you'rs old, some folk have been old from a very young age.

Un spite of what Jasper says, they are a bit of a hassle.

You could always reach for the lasers...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2011, 09:48:28 pm
And you're now a little bit older than when you last viewed this thread, it all stacks up.

At least you can still walk/cycle/do whatever the fuck you want for a good few years yet.  Wait till you're body starts completely giving up on you/you lose your marbles, then you'll have something to....cheese on toast.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 31, 2011, 09:51:32 pm
shit.... this is not good.

I'll get the inconto pants in now, slackers.. you wanna share on a bulk order mate?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 31, 2011, 09:52:39 pm
You bunch of four eyed twats ;)

Zimmer frame next... :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 31, 2011, 09:57:32 pm
At least you can still walk/cycle/do whatever the fuck you want for a good few years yet.  Wait till you're body starts completely giving up on you/you lose your marbles, then you'll have something to....cheese on toast.
;D ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 31, 2011, 10:06:09 pm
You bunch of four eyed twats ;)

Zimmer frame next... :)

your time will come my young padowan...


if you're lucky.
 ;)

may be nothing wrong with me sight... could just be stressed out of my gord...
now, that's a NNFN... or what.


god, now i"m wishing I'm disabled  :o
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 31, 2011, 10:07:36 pm
I'm getting my motorised wheelchair on order now before the rush.

I'm recovering from a busted A2, about 2 months into a 3 month healing process looks like.

Sacro-iliac seized up whilst I was doing weights instead, so I've been in pain since Xmas gradually improving under a rather charming but expensive lady physio, still hurts when seated though.

Went to the wall today, Nike Air was asking after my injury -all going swimmingly I said.... had to stop later due to a nasty sharp pain in the back of the elbow, like a hot needle into the bursa. Hasn't improved since, and can only be a tear to the triceps tendon over the bursa. FFS!

Oh, and my house (for sale) had a major flood off the rising main over Xmas while we were away, ££££££££££S of damage - in between exchange and completion (now delayed). I kid you not.

Welcome to 2011 :'( :'(

Plus Fatdoc won't be sympathetic cos he won't be able to read the post. Bugger.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2011, 10:12:52 pm
I'll get the inconto pants in now, slackers.. you wanna share on a bulk order mate?

Go on then I'll start stocking up now.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 31, 2011, 10:17:21 pm
I'm getting my motorised wheelchair on order now before the rush.

I'm recovering from a busted A2, about 2 months into a 3 month healing process looks like.

Sacro-iliac seized up whilst I was doing weights instead, so I've been in pain since Xmas gradually improving under a rather charming but expensive lady physio, still hurts when seated though.

Went to the wall today, Nike Air was asking after my injury -all going swimmingly I said.... had to stop later due to a nasty sharp pain in the back of the elbow, like a hot needle into the bursa. Hasn't improved since, and can only be a tear to the triceps tendon over the bursa. FFS!


I got A2,

swimming

And hot needles

... so pool party somewhere down south...


reach for the lasers.. i think I can see them

sweeeet

Oh, and my house (for sale) had a major flood off the rising main over Xmas while we were away, ££££££££££S of damage - in between exchange and completion (now delayed). I kid you not.

Welcome to 2011 :'( :'(

Plus Fatdoc won't be sympathetic cos he won't be able to read the post. Bugger.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 31, 2011, 10:25:31 pm
At this rate it'll be a bring-your-own-zimmer party. And no chatting up my incontinence nurse either - ones that can catheterise properly are like gold-dust round here so you can find your own.
Oh, and I replied to the tree-hugging email btw.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 01, 2011, 12:43:02 pm
Fatdoc's so old and spazzed he can't even use the quote funtion. Or maybe he can't actually see that he's done it wrong the blind twat.

I'd just top myself now if I were you mate.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on February 01, 2011, 01:06:36 pm
Look on the bright side, if glasses mean you're old, some folk have been old from a very young age.
(http://www.climbing.com/photo/image/BarcelonaSpain-LCWC-2009/Adam%20Ondra.jpg)

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 01, 2011, 02:05:23 pm
Word.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 01, 2011, 04:47:51 pm
Cheers Chris. I guess if you're gonna do misfortune/incompetence (delete as applicable) it's best to aim high!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatboySlimfast on February 01, 2011, 06:46:01 pm
Look on the bright side, if glass mean you'rs old, some folk have been old from a very young age.

Un spite of what Jasper says, they are a bit of a hassle.

You could always reach for the lasers...
what use are they to the old twat.....
(http://img2.mlstatic.com/jm/img?s=MLB&f=164393856_7532.jpg&v=O)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 01, 2011, 07:03:07 pm
Fatdoc's so old and spazzed he can't even use the quote funtion. Or maybe he can't actually see that he's done it wrong the blind twat.

I'd just top myself now if I were you mate.

you b*tard. Being old I refuse to use some text expletive... but I did laugh out loud

I hate you all...



BTW, those lasers are not the original ones, so they don't count.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: RowanSB on March 06, 2011, 05:00:23 pm
Seem to have developed chronic overtraining syndrome, rested for two months but still feel weak and sore.

Why is life so harsh?  :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on March 06, 2011, 10:39:35 pm
tore my biscep on brad pit today. fuck.
I'm almost 100% positive I would of done it that go as well
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on March 07, 2011, 09:35:46 am
Bummer Jim, hope it gets better soon.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on March 07, 2011, 10:49:21 am
 :agree:

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dr T on March 18, 2011, 06:28:01 pm
went to local wall today for first time in months (usually train at home or a private little wall  ;D)
well got well and truely  :spank:

nothing above 6b+  :slap:
and that after a trip to font where I flashed 7a and worked 7b in a session...

undergrading - certainly

problems at least 4 moves longer than I'm used to - definitely

 :wall:

oh well... whatever... nevermind
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 18, 2011, 07:21:04 pm
@ Jim: nurse that beast Jim, and get well soon!!!

@ Dr T: c'mon, I'd exchange 7b in the forest with 6b+ on plastic every given day!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Baldy on March 18, 2011, 08:10:37 pm
a 6b+ by Mark's grading!
Hot shit!

I'd be chuffed.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dr T on March 18, 2011, 08:19:40 pm
@ Dr T: c'mon, I'd exchange 7b in the forest with 6b+ on plastic every given day!!!

oh aye - the forest is what counts of course
back there in three weeks - let's hope for less rain than the last trip....

as for the plastic... its just, well you know, ego....  :-[
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kilgore1080 on March 27, 2011, 01:05:54 pm
Been ill for a week, can't climb, still undiagnosed. Arse.  :sick:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2011, 06:54:31 am
Sore throat for 3 1/2 weeks now, so feel your pain.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dr T on March 28, 2011, 07:46:01 am
Jr T has chicken pox  :(
At least they should be clear by Font....
Just hope my immune system remembers how to fight it off.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dr T on March 28, 2011, 01:37:04 pm
Jr T has chicken pox  :(
At least they should be clear by Font....
Just hope my immune system remembers how to fight it off.
and now I have the vomits..
weight loss before font maybe?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Baldy on March 28, 2011, 01:45:52 pm
You sure are a sickly one T.

At least you didnt break your hand... :ras:
I feel like I deal with the pain of not climbing better every time I break myself, perhaps I wanted to this time...it was very self inflicted after all.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2011, 02:42:56 pm
What did you do, bash it with a wooden mallet?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on March 28, 2011, 02:46:46 pm
I'm going for cut, whilst shaving palms.  :shrug:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 28, 2011, 03:04:33 pm
Fell off a slackline into a pile of diabolos, digeridoos and bongos?




Sorry, I couldn't resist. Get well soon.  :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rodma on March 28, 2011, 04:22:39 pm
You didn't realise that "punching the clown" was a euphemism?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Baldy on March 28, 2011, 05:06:07 pm
I was actually climbing!
You spend all that time during recovery mastering useless skills (like slacklining) without hurting yourself, then the second you get back on rock. Poof!

Three finger pocket down in Bathford on the V8 traverse...shoulda stopped when it started to ache a bit.
Kept going for another attempt and small *pop* in the forearm...game over.
At least I had the sense to stop climbing then...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2011, 06:04:55 pm
Poof!

Sounds about right :)

I recommend a course of MTFU.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on March 29, 2011, 07:22:53 am
NNFN: Got to work super early so I can leave early but I forgot my keys so I'm sat outside. I can get UKB on my laptop but not access the actual data server. DOH!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on March 29, 2011, 07:33:30 am
Don't worry, its the thought that counts.  :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 29, 2011, 08:20:47 am
I've done that before. Really really annoying.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on March 29, 2011, 08:42:31 am
I managed to find a spot where I could could access the server so it turned into a pleasant hour sat outside working. YYFY.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on March 29, 2011, 08:47:00 am
I've done that before. Really really annoying.
don't you work from home?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 29, 2011, 09:18:41 am
Only sometimes. Wish I did all the time, it's the long term plan.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 30, 2011, 09:59:33 am
My long term plan is similar, only it involves not working from home, or indeed anywhere.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andymarshll on April 05, 2011, 08:47:40 pm
Fell of the end of Broken Heart. Twice. First from one, and then two split tips on my left hand pissing blood everywhere. First go stopped on the jugs to pack it with chalk and dry it out, then fell off higher up because my right arm was fucked, second time i got there decided to race to the end and hope it went ok, only to grease off the last left handhold of clever beaver and realise i now had the second split.   :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: philo on April 08, 2011, 03:08:08 pm
managed to blow my head gasket on the way home from work, NNFN
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 16, 2011, 09:59:53 pm
sorting documents for next saturday font trip..


Mrs FD does not have a vaild passport
 :wall:

guess where she is on tuesday?




Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 20, 2011, 07:18:34 pm
Where do I start?

Put it this way, landing a book contract today and climbing three days out of the last five don't even begin to even the balance.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on April 21, 2011, 07:28:44 am
Where do I start?

Put it this way, landing a book contract today and climbing three days out of the last five don't even begin to even the balance.

Writers block already?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dr T on April 21, 2011, 11:31:16 am
Car's buggered.....  :wall:  :'( :slap: :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dr T on April 21, 2011, 11:32:43 am
Car's buggered.....  :wall:  :'( :slap: :furious:
oh I forgot so is the boiler....
 :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dr T on April 21, 2011, 02:56:53 pm
Car's buggered.....  :wall:  :'( :slap: :furious:
oh I forgot so is the boiler....
 :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious:

and can I add that golfer's elbow is stopping me climbing  >:(

going to spend the next however long trawling through the injuries board.....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on April 21, 2011, 03:27:12 pm
Jeez, some people just like to moan   ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dr T on April 21, 2011, 03:46:04 pm
Jeez, some people just like to moan   ;)
:guilty:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duma on April 21, 2011, 10:39:23 pm
Where do I start?

Put it this way, landing a book contract today and climbing three days out of the last five don't even begin to even the balance.
Sounds shitty Andy, hope everyone's okay
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 21, 2011, 10:51:04 pm
Yeah, nothing like that - been through all that.

Affairs of the heart and the wallet. Cheers tho'.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duma on April 21, 2011, 11:33:45 pm
Phew.
At least...
Nina Simone - Ain't Got No...I've Got Life (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUcXI2BIUOQ#)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on May 03, 2011, 11:34:48 am
Back in work after Font trip.  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on May 15, 2011, 08:23:47 pm
had a gout flare up again. >:( got it in my back which is unusual normally my knees and ankles but means i can hardly move let alone climb.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 15, 2011, 08:45:55 pm
Shit, can't imagine how bad gout in the back must be ... didn't even know it was possible!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on May 16, 2011, 06:26:09 pm
my doc says im a bit unusual but because one of my kidneys doesnt work to well im not getting rid of enough uric acid which is then crystallizing in my joints. most people get it in there toes or feet but ive had it in my ankles, knees and now pretty sure my back(feels the same). usually stays under control if i drink plenty of water and watch my diet but been a bit lazy last few weeks.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 27, 2011, 09:13:52 am
39,5° yesterday.
24° this morning at 7:45.
 :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 27, 2011, 10:02:45 am
Blimey Lore, that's, warm! How about 2 am with a lamp? T shirt weather?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 27, 2011, 10:09:28 am
my doc says im a bit unusual but because one of my kidneys doesnt work to well im not getting rid of enough uric acid which is then crystallizing in my joints. most people get it in there toes or feet but ive had it in my ankles, knees and now pretty sure my back(feels the same). usually stays under control if i drink plenty of water and watch my diet but been a bit lazy last few weeks.

Hope its died down a bit now. I've just had the one bad bout in the standard big toe the winter before last. Only had the odd twinge and ache since then.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 27, 2011, 11:52:46 am
Blimey Lore, that's, warm! How about 2 am with a lamp? T shirt weather?
T shirt???
the totty is out at full power, mini shorties and tops... which is a YYFY by the way...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: butters on May 27, 2011, 01:00:46 pm

T shirt???
the totty is out at full power, mini shorties and tops... which is a YYFY by the way...

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j6-l4508rp8/S6jREIbjjpI/AAAAAAAAAZE/tIY9MVlQrHY/s400/totti_barechest_training.JPG)

 :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Iesu on May 27, 2011, 01:08:30 pm
NNFN first session out on my board for about a month, short period jacking walls, punchy shifting beach break, cross shore chop, only caught 2 waves in an hour and a half and lost half my tail pad  :slap:

at least i didn't put a hole in the tail of my board on the pumphouse boulder reef like last time i was there :boohoo:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on May 27, 2011, 01:18:55 pm
Iesu - Rule#1 ... Never complain about going surfing when the rest of us are sat at work chained to our desks!  :spank:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Iesu on May 27, 2011, 01:25:27 pm
 :sorry: in my defense it was a quick dawn blast to the coast, was back in chains at my desk by 10:30 (ish - honest guv)  :chair:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 27, 2011, 02:19:24 pm
Oh well, might be something else about... The stinky bay looked good this morning, as I peered at it mournfully on the way to the chaining.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AdamD on June 04, 2011, 10:25:18 am
I decided to have a round of golf (rare occurrence) and on the first swing my elbow started hurting  :-\  So I carried on anyway... and now my thumb also hurts in conjunction with my elbow and it's not fading away  :'(

I can't believe I've got injured from swinging a golf club once, I think I'll go back to emulating Daniel Woods instead of Tiger Woods, it seems much safer.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on June 04, 2011, 04:49:31 pm
It is the Good Lords way of telling you to stop playing golf.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Monolith on June 04, 2011, 05:18:05 pm
Less than 48 hours to assessment. No sleep in essentially two weeks and it's getting worse. I need to find something from somewhere. Can you get herbal things or otherwise to stay awake?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 04, 2011, 06:41:59 pm
coffee, sugar. Dont forget to eat. If you hit a stone wall in one task (or part of one task) do something different and come back to it.

I'd go for a short spell climbing, have a beer and fall asleep in front of the telly for a few hours then get up fresh and you'll work twice as well as before. But it sounds like thats not an option given the time left. DONT do what my house mate did during finals and do a load of speed and stay up all night revising - then to freeze up in the exam.

Remember in 48 hours you can relax - light at end of tunnel etc..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on June 04, 2011, 06:53:05 pm
DONT do what my house mate did during finals and do a load of speed and stay up all night revising - then to freeze up in the exam.

TomTom, surely advocating doing a load of speed and NOT staying up all night revising is lunacy??

Lecturers....

Eat the coffee, snort the coke. Don't forget to get tooled up for the exam, 'cos on the off-chance you don't do as well as you'd expect, take as many of those muthafuckah's with you as you can.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Monolith on June 04, 2011, 08:02:53 pm
 :devangel:


I wish it was an exam. It's pinning up a years worth of work redone alongside all the other reports in two weeks. COME THE FUCK ON. COME ON!!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 04, 2011, 08:59:50 pm
You can do it Mills! You're a strong confident woman. Now go out there and write the fuck out of that coursework!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 09, 2011, 10:21:14 am
(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/253528_10150208669901087_689146086_7650575_178266_n.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on June 09, 2011, 10:21:41 am

Owww!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Norton Sharley on June 09, 2011, 03:09:59 pm
What big hands you have SA Chris
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 09, 2011, 03:34:41 pm
Not big, just realllly close
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on June 10, 2011, 12:10:16 am
if your not bleeding your not trying. looks painful bit of super glue will fix it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on June 10, 2011, 08:54:05 am
Superglue is sooooooo last centuary.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 10, 2011, 09:01:32 am
Top bit has dried out and is flapping around, just removed it - not as bad as it originally looked, just need to be careful when chopping chillis.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: uptown on June 10, 2011, 10:57:11 am
just need to be careful when chopping chillis.
:lol:

NNFN : 'Someone' glued over a hold on a project I'm trying rendering a good 4 finger edge useless. Bloody annoying.  :wall:
If anyone sees me at the crag with a file and small chisel / hammer combo please don't shout at me or threaten to lamp me.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 10, 2011, 10:59:51 am
Is that outdoors? WTF where they thinking?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: uptown on June 10, 2011, 12:08:33 pm
Is that outdoors? WTF where they thinking?

Yep. Kilnsey.
The justification was that the hold was flexing and it's shared with an existing route. You can do the existing route with the hold as a pinch or an edge for your right-hand, whilst my project took the edge with my left-hand. The gluer doesn't use the edge on their sequence and is trying the existing line so 'reinforced' the pinch by covering the edge with glue, therefore making the second crux to my project impossible.
I think the intentions were good yet it highlights a lesson to be learnt for potential gluers : a good repair shouldn't alter the characteristics of that area of rock, you don't need loads of glue for it to work. Also just because you don't use a certain hold doesn't mean others don't. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 10, 2011, 12:31:56 pm
Sounds like a bit of brain power could have been applied.

Can you get a battery powered dremel to tidy it up?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chris_j_s on June 12, 2011, 12:31:32 pm
 :furious:

Just finished sticking 2 of my fingers back together after chopping about 3/4 of the way through both of them! Guess I'll just have to get good at climbing on the back 2 on my left hand!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on June 12, 2011, 05:12:25 pm
OUCH!

Axe+woodburning stove by any chance?

On the plus side it does sound like a great training opportunity...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on June 12, 2011, 11:13:30 pm
:furious:

Just finished sticking 2 of my fingers back together after chopping about 3/4 of the way through both of them! Guess I'll just have to get good at climbing on the back 2 on my left hand!
Hard luck mate. Have been there and know how it feels.

Horrible accidents can happen very easily cant they ? What's the prognosis from the docs ?
It might seem a long way back but youll get there
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chris_j_s on June 13, 2011, 10:48:17 am
No, luckily not the axe/woodburning stove combo! That would have been a lot worse!

I have a vague recollection of your posts Dolly and it isn't a patch on your accident!

This was done using a stanley knife with a fresh blade whilst cutting plasterboard. Was literally making the last cut before all the cutting was finished and had been very conscious of not chopping fingers but obviously just had a lapse in concentration at a very poor time!

Have cut through index and middle fingers about 1.5-2cm from the finger tips and, like I mentioned, about 3/4 of the way through both of them.

Didn't go to the docs as they seemed to hold together quite well after half an hour of pressure (during which I randomly made a cup of tea - don't people do odd things whilst in stressful situations!!).

They have now been superglued which seems to be holding them together a treat although it still looks pretty shocking at the moment and hurts like a bastard...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 13, 2011, 11:23:23 am
 :sick:

Might be idea to get them looked at anyway!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on June 13, 2011, 01:50:28 pm
Agree - its worth taking the time to get a medical opinion - you want to make sure they knit properly
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ben on June 13, 2011, 02:00:02 pm
you cut 3/4 way through 2 fingers and you're not going to the quack?!  hardcore..   :o
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JamieG on June 13, 2011, 02:19:09 pm
I would definitely go to see the doctor.

A friend of a friend had a similar injury, but probably not as deep a cut as your sounds, and tried to just bandage it up. After a few days the tip started to go black and smell weird so he went to A and E. They said, if he'd left it any longer he'd have lost the tip of his finger due to the infection spreading.

Don't mean to get all doomsday on you, but probably not worth the risk. Good luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: galpinos on June 13, 2011, 02:42:51 pm

Have cut through index and middle fingers about 1.5-2cm from the finger tips and, like I mentioned, about 3/4 of the way through both of them.

Didn't go to the docs as they seemed to hold together quite well after half an hour of pressure

WTF! you are mental. Have you cut throught the bone?

Ditto the doctor advice. It's not worth losing the use of two fingers for.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chris_j_s on June 13, 2011, 04:49:57 pm
WTF! you are mental. Have you cut throught the bone?

Thanks all for your concern

I don't know how but no, I don't seem to have gone through the bone! The cut took something of a diagonal line but it is just 1mm or so away from my finger nail on one side.

It honestly has stuck back in very neat fashion and despite being quite numb to start with feeling has returned to both fingertips. They are a little swollen but not an unhealthy colour. Luckily my mrs is a vet and insisted on it being cleaned up properly to avoid infection.

Bizarrely I'm a little surprised at everyones reaction as going to A&E seemed excessive - my main concern was that I'd planned to go climbing that afternoon and now couldn't, but tales of fingers going black have worried me to the extent that maybe I will go and see what my GP thinks just in case!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on June 13, 2011, 10:04:31 pm
first thing i was ever taught as an apprentice was if you cut yourself do not get blood on the job, then finish the job, then go to the hospital. had to do this when i cut through the top of my hand with a jack saw. by the time had drove my self there the steering wheel was covered in blood. funny thing was once i was stitched up they said i wasn't allowed to drive.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on June 13, 2011, 10:11:42 pm
WTF! you are mental. Have you cut throught the bone?

Thanks all for your concern

I don't know how but no, I don't seem to have gone through the bone! The cut took something of a diagonal line but it is just 1mm or so away from my finger nail on one side.

It honestly has stuck back in very neat fashion and despite being quite numb to start with feeling has returned to both fingertips. They are a little swollen but not an unhealthy colour. Luckily my mrs is a vet and insisted on it being cleaned up properly to avoid infection.

Bizarrely I'm a little surprised at everyones reaction as going to A&E seemed excessive - my main concern was that I'd planned to go climbing that afternoon and now couldn't, but tales of fingers going black have worried me to the extent that maybe I will go and see what my GP thinks just in case!

tendons... you are a climber.... you NEED to see an A&E dr to get them assessed, soon.



Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: uptown on June 14, 2011, 09:29:41 am
Sounds like a bit of brain power could have been applied.

Can you get a battery powered dremel to tidy it up?

I went back yesterday and two taps with a toffee hammer and wood chisel got shot of the glue fillet. No change to the hold underneath so the project is still on. Disheartening to see that 'someone' has been trying the line though since my last visit - tick marks all over the holds past the hangerless bolt. Do people have no scruples? [sigh]
:slap:

Hope the fingers mend ok Chris.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 14, 2011, 09:49:21 am
Time to get the lip balm out uptown!  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: TobyD on June 16, 2011, 10:54:53 am

[/quote] Disheartening to see that 'someone' has been trying the line though since my last visit - tick marks all over the holds past the hangerless bolt. Do people have no scruples? [sigh]
[/quote]

well, i wonder who that might have been eh?  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: TobyD on June 16, 2011, 10:59:39 am
NNFN
 
just got really important dissertation marks through. Not good news.  :shit:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on June 16, 2011, 12:25:13 pm

just got really important dissertation marks through. Not good news.

Frustrating when input ≠ output (as assessed).     

Does this influence the overall degree mark?  If it is any consolation, the boss of a major London hospital physio. department recently told me "of course we don't look at the degree grade - we go on personal statement and interview". 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: TobyD on June 17, 2011, 12:08:44 am

just got really important dissertation marks through. Not good news.
 
Does this influence the overall degree mark?  If it is any consolation, the boss of a major London hospital physio. department recently told me "of course we don't look at the degree grade - we go on personal statement and interview". 

yes..... but that is reassuring, thanks duncan!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on June 21, 2011, 11:09:14 am
<self-pity>
Feeling cursed at the moment.

Living near the Alps means: lots of super-inspiring routes to look at, plan and aspire to. Living near the Alps with job & family means: planning climbing weekends with babysitting arrangements long in advance, then watching with mounting dread as the dreamed-of weekend approaches and the weather forecast gets steadily worse and worse.

Case in point: Frau M's planned first multipitch weekend last summer. Babysitter arranged long in advance. Weekend arrives: raining, and Frau M has a cold. We finally drag ourselves out on an improving forecast Sunday afternoon for four pitches of pure mediocrity at Nassereith, firmly crossing that crag off the list of places to bother with ever again.

Case in point (2): had planned to go to Oberreintal tomorrow for four days with my Wednesday night wall group from the German Alpine Club. Supposed to be superb Alpine semi-trad up to about ten pitches on immaculate rock with loads of classics in my 6a-ish target range. Weather forecast is heavy rain & thunderstorms until Sunday. Rest of group now plans to drive down to Ticino where weather should be better, which would be ok except that I too now have a heavy cold & am not sure if I feel up to a long journey.

Case in point (3): first meet-up last Sunday at the wall with another Brit expat whom I met via ukc. He turns out to be a nice guy and a much better climber than me - 7b/c or so at the wall - and is enthusiastic for Alpine mutlipitch. Last route of the evening, he dislocates his shoulder trying a 7c. Oh well, I have a couple of long UIAA 3-ish ridge traverses on my to-do list that might be suitable rehab for him.
</self-pity>
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 21, 2011, 11:18:19 am

just got really important dissertation marks through. Not good news.

Frustrating when input ≠ output (as assessed).     

Does this influence the overall degree mark?  If it is any consolation, the boss of a major London hospital physio. department recently told me "of course we don't look at the degree grade - we go on personal statement and interview".

In most cases (e.g. almost all postgrad studies) having already taken degree classification into account as a basic qualifying criterium. Plus side, its very hard nowadays for one weak module (even a dissertation) to be make and break for the whole degree.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: RopeBoy on June 27, 2011, 12:25:27 pm
NNFN

Trip to Font at half term;
Our share of gite (family holiday) - £200
Chunnel ticket                              - £170
Petrol there and back                   - £150 ish
Spending money for family           - £500

Twatting ankle on first day of week long trip - priceless!  :badidea:

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sidewinder on July 04, 2011, 12:30:56 pm
Physio at cliffhanger confirmed my suspicions and it looks like I am/have joined the UKB/DC club (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4609.0.html).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 04, 2011, 12:44:44 pm
high five (gently now!).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DaveyDave on July 08, 2011, 08:31:00 pm
After 6 weeks of pulley injuries, on the way to the works I crash my 125... Is this perhaps a greater being telling me not to climb?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ducko on July 09, 2011, 03:03:30 am
almost ran over a gull' today missed by about 6 inches..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 09, 2011, 08:03:02 am
The former location of a beast maker...

(http://desmond.yfrog.com/Himg740/scaled.php?tn=0&server=740&filename=tkwii.jpg&xsize=640&ysize=640)
http://yfrog.com/kktkwiij (http://yfrog.com/kktkwiij)


Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Plattsy on July 09, 2011, 08:09:51 am
Hope your beastmaker is alright.  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wood FT on July 09, 2011, 09:12:38 am
Gutted tom, a savage turn, however give it a week and you could practice finger locks
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 09, 2011, 09:32:24 am
Gutted tom, a savage turn, however give it a week and you could practice finger locks

My pebble grasping skills will be second to none after a few weeks deadhanging those raw plugs :)
Typical Hull house. Build of soot and builders spit.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on July 09, 2011, 09:51:01 am
almost ran over a gull' today missed by about 6 inches..

Thats NNFN because you were trying to hit it?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on July 14, 2011, 11:12:12 am
while heading to the buckstones hit a big pothole at 50-60MPH. I saw it too late as it was over a small verge.
6 month old alloy buckled ... bollocks!!! I have now buckled my front passenger wheel twice in 2011.
 :wall: :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on July 14, 2011, 11:14:53 am
Get your tracking checked too or your tyre costs may increase.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2011, 11:22:40 am
Report it

http://www.potholes.co.uk/users/login (http://www.potholes.co.uk/users/login)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on July 14, 2011, 11:29:51 am
Report it

http://www.potholes.co.uk/users/login (http://www.potholes.co.uk/users/login)

There doesn't seem to be a way to report all of the roads in Sheffield simultaneously!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2011, 11:49:21 am
:)

Likewise here.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on July 14, 2011, 11:51:42 am
ok reported and off to take photos of the hole and then will try and claim some money off of kirklees
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on July 14, 2011, 06:27:32 pm
Did the same thing in Kirklees, measured the hole( It must be deeper than either 6 or 9 inches, I forget which). It must have been reported previously, and not repaired,  to get cash back. I got a replacement tyre. 100 squid. Nice.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on July 14, 2011, 08:17:14 pm
Thanks it was 12cm deep so doubt I will get any thing :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on July 14, 2011, 08:27:37 pm
The important bit was that they have had information re. the hole and failed to act on it. If they don't know about them, they cannot have done anything to fix them so are not, in their eyes, at fault.

There's  a big hole forming on scapegoat hill at the minute. A real gaper. Where was yours?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on July 14, 2011, 08:57:34 pm
New hey road at the first lay by on the left as you are heading past nont sarahs towards the parking for buckstones.

Here (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?saddr=New+Hey+Rd,+Huddersfield,+West+Yorkshire+HD3,+UK&daddr=New+Hey+Rd%2FA640&hl=en&ll=53.625158,-1.951859&spn=0.006617,0.019205&sll=53.625146,-1.95194&sspn=0.006617,0.019205&geocode=FYm_MgMd-sTj_ylRBlYNNcN7SDEq4JszNccc9w%3BFUZBMgMdjTfi_w&mra=mift&mrsp=1&sz=16&t=h&z=16)

This is the bastard : http://www.flickr.com/photos/grubespics/5938028334/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/grubespics/5938028334/#) but its a crap photo should of taken a few more. There is white spray paint around the edge of the pot hole so kirklees are aware of it. I should of got a photo from further away
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on July 14, 2011, 09:13:30 pm
I'd take more fots, showing location and perspective, then give 'em a ring. You never know. And keep all your receipts for any work done.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Ru on July 14, 2011, 09:54:57 pm
Whilst you're taking pictures:

Put a ruler in the hole, vertically, and take a picture so that you can read the depth. Take a distance shot showing where the hole is in the road and another to identify the position of the hole with respect to other road features.

Takes pictures of your buckled wheel.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2011, 11:02:59 pm
Sunny all week, but been ill, then weekend forecast http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/gr/aberdeen_forecast_weather.html (http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/gr/aberdeen_forecast_weather.html)

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on July 14, 2011, 11:45:49 pm
Well if you must live in Aberdeen  ::)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on July 15, 2011, 08:34:50 am
New hey road at the first lay by on the left as you are heading past nont sarahs towards the parking for buckstones.

As an aside, there's some lovely roof problems on the prow at Buckstones, if you haven't done them already.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on July 15, 2011, 09:20:58 am
New hey road at the first lay by on the left as you are heading past nont sarahs towards the parking for buckstones.
As an aside, there's some lovely roof problems on the prow at Buckstones, if you haven't done them already.
I guess you are talking about the ones in this thread? http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9440.msg190339.html#msg190339 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9440.msg190339.html#msg190339)
They are a bit beyond my current capability but I think I will try then later in the year. There was a nice breeze in the carpark but by the rocks were completely sheltered from it. The grit was really warm and the midges were out in force espcially on that prow. We just did some easy stuff for an hour or so and retreated to the pub.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on July 15, 2011, 09:49:18 am
Yes, nice venue for easier stuff too.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Big Dave on July 15, 2011, 10:32:59 am
Yes, nice venue for easier stuff too.

 :agree:

and there's also a nice arete problem on the boulder down the hill from the PIAP roof, around 6a.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mattrm on July 16, 2011, 10:53:08 pm
Twisted my bleedin ankle running down Waun Fach and it's p*ssing it down all weekend. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kilgore1080 on July 26, 2011, 11:03:08 am
Did my other ankle up at Robin Hood's Stride on Saturday. Got there, just warming up, went to look at a problem, foot slipped off a rock I was standing on, bang, all twisted and sprained etc. At least Almscliffe let me have a full day before bitch-slapping me.

Wonderful.

That's both ankles in less than a year now and I'm supposed to be going up to Scotland next week.

Still at least this time isn't so bad, I'm walking on it a bit now and the swelling is already going down and at least I already know all the physio stuff from last time.

Ah well, best get  the pull-up bar out again.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 26, 2011, 11:42:28 am
RICE RICE RICE. Well ICE bit anyway.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 10, 2011, 08:59:01 am
So, yesterday I had the whole evening to myself - first time in a long time. I headed out straight from work. I was feeling a bit weak and slow; a bit like wading through treacle. I decided that I was too tired to carry a pad around. The obvious thing to do was do loads of easy stuff without a pad.

20 problems into the session saw me on west face of The Pebble. Easy for us people of reasonable stature.

On the reach for the top, my back felt odd. I got to standing OK. My arms lost a lot of feeling and most of their strength - especially the left side. I felt dizzy. I had a brief panic that I was having a stroke; I wasn't. The easy mantle on to the top of the boulder was impossible. My arms wouldn't work. I couldn't reverse the move. I couldn't even traverse off.

Fortunately there was someone with a pad within shouting distance. They came over and rescued me.

Rescued from The Pebble FFS

I'm not sure what I'm most annoyed about: the pain/tweak (which is getting better), the loss of a valuable evening on rock, or not even asking the name of my rescuer due to my confused state.

If you're reading this, thanks again.

I'm glad I didn't go with my original plan of doing routes.

A consolation night in The Broadfield and subsequent hangover has helped a bit.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 23, 2011, 04:56:59 pm
just seen that marco simoncelli has died. may he rest in peace. i really loved watching him ride he had so much flair.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on November 19, 2011, 10:41:14 am
Merrily riding down the Otley Road when some tit in his van turns left across the cycle lane. Slammed on the brakes but not enough time to stop completely. Not sure exactly what happened but I caught most of the impact on my lower ribs and ended up on the ground in front of the van. Mainly just got the wind knocked out of me but now have a very tender right hand side, just in time for peak crushing season  :wall:
Told the guy to check his mirrors in future; he claimed he did. Well I didn't just appear out of thin air did I?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 19, 2011, 11:29:45 am
Merrily riding down the Otley Road when some tit in his van turns left across the cycle lane. Slammed on the brakes but not enough time to stop completely. Not sure exactly what happened but I caught most of the impact on my lower ribs and ended up on the ground in front of the van. Mainly just got the wind knocked out of me but now have a very tender right hand side, just in time for peak crushing season  :wall:
Told the guy to check his mirrors in future; he claimed he did. Well I didn't just appear out of thin air did I?

Bastard. Call the dibble and at least inconvenience the fuxker..  That's the type of incident where most cyclists get killed (albeit trucks turning left)..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on November 19, 2011, 02:43:37 pm
Did you get his details.This happened to me recently when this young presumed I was turning left like she was.At first I thought no big deal just a couple of grazes and my bar tape and saddle scuffed a couple of weeks later realised the impacted had fucked the bonding round my bottom bracket.Which meant my carbonfibre frame was now a piece of useless plastic. Luckily I got her details and now have a solicitor making a claim for me.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on November 19, 2011, 06:36:54 pm
I did get the guys contact details and the details of some of the witnesses. The bike seems as good as it was when it went down, although what happened to yours is quite scary. To be honest so long as the bike is OK then I'm not too bothered about the hassle of getting the police involved.
Interestingly my housemate got knocked down very badly a week or two ago, hospital visits and crutches and everything. The bike was fooked and the driver's insurance company is paying out for a new one. However, at the scene of the accident (when it wasn't known if she had broken her leg or not and she was being packed into an ambulance) the police wanted to know if she was going to press charges and told her that if she said no then then she may not be able to choose to later on! Surely you can't just forgo your right to justice at the scene of an accident when you might not yet have recovered full mental faculty let alone know the full extent of the damage done?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on November 20, 2011, 01:21:16 pm
What I have been told is you won't get a new bike. i.e. if your bike is 2 years old you will get the replacement value of a 2 year old bike.
What you have to hope is what you get for the personal injury bit will add up to the cost of a new bike.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ianv on November 20, 2011, 05:55:58 pm
When I got knocked down, it was the police who made the decision to press charges or not. TBH, I wouldnt bother pressing charges unless he driver was a total tool.

It might be a bit late now, but for any accidents resulting in injury don't deal directly with the insurance company. Talk to someone like bikeline, they are specialist solicitors dealing with bike injury claims. I got at least 4K more compensation by using them than if I had dealt direct. Your friend sounds like she should definitely talk to them.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 20, 2011, 10:20:51 pm
What I have been told is you won't get a new bike. i.e. if your bike is 2 years old you will get the replacement value of a 2 year old bike.
What you have to hope is what you get for the personal injury bit will add up to the cost of a new bike.

YES... havin been there.. webbo is right on the money... in every way

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on November 25, 2011, 09:36:55 am
Not bouldering related, but the freezer died so I've lost my pre-prepped curry ingredient store.  All my frozen Dorset Nagas, Scotch Bonnets, Naga Morich, and all the fresh herbs and galangal etc etc.  Gutted.   :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 25, 2011, 10:05:36 am
Not bouldering related, but the freezer died so I've lost my pre-prepped curry ingredient store.  All my frozen Dorset Nagas, Scotch Bonnets, Naga Morich, and all the fresh herbs and galangal etc etc.  Gutted.   :'(
That sounds climbing related to me..

Man cannot climb on beer alone!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 25, 2011, 10:20:45 am
GCW does.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on November 25, 2011, 10:21:48 am
Moved more towards Vin Blanc nowadays.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 25, 2011, 11:05:57 am
aka "doing a Sloper"
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 25, 2011, 11:07:38 am
"doing a Sloper"

Which is definitely not a good diet, unless you're training for a bout of gout.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 25, 2011, 11:36:36 am
Moved more towards Vin Blanc nowadays.

Which makes the problem even more urgent!
Otherwise, you might have to drink it.....

Arrghh!
Shudder!

WARM!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Seb on December 05, 2011, 10:44:34 pm
Just got my uni application declined by Sheffield Hallam. Really beginning to worry I might end up somewhere flat and shit if I get in at all.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on December 05, 2011, 11:04:58 pm
Bollocks! Hope you get something sorted out.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on December 06, 2011, 07:46:56 am
Just got my uni application declined by Sheffield Hallam. Really beginning to worry I might end up somewhere flat and shit if I get in at all.
Unlucky man. What you wanting to do?
If you get desperate apply to Huddersfield they seem to accept most people. About 1 hour drive from the peak, some local stuff, about 1.5 hours from almscliff.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 06, 2011, 08:12:55 am
Just got my uni application declined by Sheffield Hallam. Really beginning to worry I might end up somewhere flat and shit if I get in at all.
Unlucky man. What you wanting to do?

And any idea why you were declined?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 06, 2011, 08:38:29 am
Just got my uni application declined by Sheffield Hallam. Really beginning to worry I might end up somewhere flat and shit if I get in at all.
Unlucky man. What you wanting to do?

And any idea why you were declined?

Yup - was it Grades/predictions? With regards to new applicants - in the middle ground its a buyers market at the moment, many universities are lying on their backs legs apart at the moment... 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Seb on December 06, 2011, 11:39:54 am
Applied for physiotherapy, which I know is very competative especially at Sheffield. I dont think its grades as mine are pretty good. Im a mature student doing an access course as well which may work against me. Im going to email them and see what details they give me. Sucks but its not the end of the world. still other places to go, hopefully not flat and in the south though. I really hope I dont have to go through clearing or any shit like that.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on December 06, 2011, 01:28:26 pm
Applied for physiotherapy, which I know is very competative especially at Sheffield. I dont think its grades as mine are pretty good. Im a mature student doing an access course as well which may work against me. Im going to email them and see what details they give me.

Most admissions tutors are keen to take mature students as they make good physios. Access qualifications should be accepted if you are predicted to get sufficient credits.  Have you been interviewed?  Presuming not, it can only be past or predicted academic performance, inappropriate reference, or a non-ideal personal statement. 

What are your A level grades and how far are they from the current requirements of the universities you are applying to?  Many now ask for ABB or AAB for physiotherapy.  How many Access credits are you taking, are this enough, and what are your predicted grades?

Do you have an academic reference? 

How many people have read your personal statement?  Any of them physiotherapists?  Do you have a wide range of work experience and have you described this range in your personal statement?  "I've got some arranged" will result in the application going straight to the reject pile.  Try and see as many different kinds of physiotherapists at work as you possibly can and talk about his in your personal statement.  Additionally, some hospital-related voluntary work would go down well. Hospitals are funny places: some like their sense of community, others are phobic about them. Admissions tutors like to know hospitals are somewhere you would be comfortable working in.

Many applicants fail to demonstrate a knowledge of the breadth of physiotherapy.  Many personal statements only talk about musculoskeletal physiotherapy as this will be the applicants's personal experience.  These applications will be rejected immediately.  Most physiotherapists don't work with sportspeople.  Admissions tutors need to know that you know this and that you would be happy on a two or three year course and in your first two or three years of work when you will see few or no sportspeople. Additionally, physio. training is paid for by the NHS who, naturally, want universities to choose people who are likely to work in the NHS for some time.


... its a buyers market at the moment, many universities are lying on their backs legs apart at the moment...

We are still sitting primly on our seat, knees firmly together thank you!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Seb on December 06, 2011, 09:39:01 pm
Thanks for the in depth reply.
I havent had an interview. I know my predicted grades for the access course are good but previous to that my qualifications are pretty much non existent. Im doing enough access credits.
By academic reference to you mean reference from my tutor?
Quite a few people read my personal statement and said it was pretty good. Stupidly I didnt get a physio to look at it even though I know a few.
It could very well be the work experience, im currently doing some which lasts a few weeks ago till I go to uni. It does cover a lot of different areas and is nothing to do with sport which to be honest is not the area I want to go into. BUT it hadnt started when my personal statement was sent. SO I may in fact be buggered.
Another uni contacted me asking for more details which I have given them including a lot more details about the work experience im doing. Do you think that was just a formality or do that actually mean they are considering me?
Cheers for the help, it stressing me out quite a lot that I might just not get in anywhere.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 06, 2011, 09:56:13 pm
phone up the department Seb and ask to speak to the admissions officer. It'll probably be an academic working there.

Be direct - ask them why they rejected your application, what their policy is with mature students, and whether they would re-consider. If I was in their shoes I'd take you calling them up as being a pretty strong sign that you wanted to come there! Fronting them up may make them change their mind. I guess you could piss them off a bit, but seeing as you've already been rejected by them I suggest you have nothing to lose...

Only the squeaky wheel gets greased! (not sure if thats the best metaphor but hey ho...) :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Seb on December 06, 2011, 10:09:46 pm
I was going to email them but yer Ill give them a call, whats the worst that could happen. At least Ill know, and if it turns out my application is just shit in general I can start making contingency plans.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on December 06, 2011, 10:28:24 pm
By academic reference to you mean reference from my tutor?

Yes.  Some mature students only provide references from employers.  Good background but doesn't always tell us much about the likelihood of you coping with the course.


Quite a few people read my personal statement and said it was pretty good. Stupidly I didnt get a physio to look at it even though I know a few.
It could very well be the work experience, im currently doing some which lasts a few weeks ago till I go to uni. It does cover a lot of different areas and is nothing to do with sport which to be honest is not the area I want to go into. BUT it hadnt started when my personal statement was sent. SO I may in fact be buggered.
Another uni contacted me asking for more details which I have given them including a lot more details about the work experience im doing. Do you think that was just a formality or do that actually mean they are considering me?

It is possible you have not 'ticked the boxes' with your personal statement.  Show it to a physio. friend and see what they say. 

From the Sheffield Hallam website: 

"You are required to have some prior knowledge and experience of working with a physiotherapist. This can be gained by shadowing a physiotherapist in a number of different settings."

You can't rewrite your UCAS form but you can contact all the universities you have applied to, including Hallam, and tell them you now have the work experience. 

It might be worth phoning Hallam, thought when I was admissions officer I didn't take calls (following several experiences with distressed or irate parents).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Seb on December 06, 2011, 10:50:35 pm
Thanks, Ill do all of that and even if Hallam don't change there mind (I imagine they wont) Itll still help for other unis im sure. Thanks for the good advice.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 07, 2011, 06:41:03 am
Duncan and Tom have given you some great advive. Do try ringing them, do take the other university contacting you as positive (really, they are not going to do that without a reason). Do look again at your personal statement - predicted grades are extremely important in how decisions are made but personal statements can make all the difference. I read them all carefully and will sometimes make offers to applicants with lowish predicted grades if the statement impresses. Or rather I used to because though Tom says ...

phone up the department Seb and ask to speak to the admissions officer. It'll probably be an academic working there.

... it may well not be. Admissions at an increasing number of places are being centralized and tutors now only see the exceptional cases (unusual qualifications etc.), i.e. there is much less academic judgement involved unfortunately.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Seb on December 07, 2011, 05:57:59 pm
do take the other university contacting you as positive (really, they are not going to do that without a reason).

This is good to hear. Just sorting out emails now. Going to call when im not in class tomorrow. Thanks again for your good advice.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 07, 2011, 09:31:32 pm
cripes... those grades would have got u  into med school in 1987... not that I'm advocating that as a choice... just scares the shit out of me what me kids will have to achieve in any walk of life..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on December 07, 2011, 10:19:25 pm
cripes... those grades would have got u  into med school in 1987..
[/quote
mmmmmm I feel there is an obvious reply to that being a nurse but that might be related to the amount of red wine I've drunk so for once I'll let it go. :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 08, 2011, 10:11:36 am
IIRC wernt  u going about us being a load of old soaks at one point??

 :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on December 08, 2011, 01:52:37 pm
cripes... those grades would have got u  into med school in 1987... not that I'm advocating that as a choice... just scares the shit out of me what me kids will have to achieve in any walk of life..

Yeah, they used to let any old people in then.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 08, 2011, 02:40:20 pm
yeah, only went for it to 5 years at sheff uni.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Seb on December 08, 2011, 09:23:04 pm
cripes... those grades would have got u  into med school in 1987... not that I'm advocating that as a choice... just scares the shit out of me what me kids will have to achieve in any walk of life..

Yer Its pretty damn scary how hard it is to get into anything worth doing. If i wasn't totally sure this was what I wanted to do Id have just stuck to my old job and earned more money and not basically given up my social life and having any money to risk it. But its really not about money is it and as Wayne Gretski said "you miss 100% of the shits you dont take".

Got a email back from Sheffield saying they are very busy and will get back to me when they can. Ill call them tomorrow morning.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BB on December 09, 2011, 12:59:19 am
as Wayne Gretski said "you miss 100% of the shits you dont take".

 :lol: That's got to be a typo, shirley? Shits or shots, it's perfectly true either way!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on December 09, 2011, 09:10:02 am
as Wayne Gretski said "you miss 100% of the shits you dont take".

 :lol: That's got to be a typo, shirley?

Yep, it's Gretsky  :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Seb on December 09, 2011, 10:28:35 am
 :oops:  :shit: Although im thinking its still true. Thats what i get for not reading my post before pressing post.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Seb on December 09, 2011, 10:29:52 am
Maybe thats whats wrong with my application. My person statement is just full off accidental swearing.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 09, 2011, 10:47:28 am
Hurrican Bawbag has struck. No power at home since 8:30pm. Getting a 2 year old up fed and dressed by the light of a spotlight in 5deg temps isn't fun, nor piling the entire contents of the freezer into the car and distributing it to friends with freezer space. Work is nice, warm and peaceful by comparison.

Sounds like FD had an entertaining flight home?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 09, 2011, 11:23:15 am
Landing at Gatwick last night, I was forced to hold the pretty stewardess's hand. First time I've seen a pro in tears. She nearly broke my fingers. There was some fairly loud praying going on in that cabin (excess of elderly Italians).
Hmm...
She really was pretty.
Maybe that should have been a YYFY...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: b3n99 on December 18, 2011, 09:02:29 pm
Two days at the cave spent falling off the last move of Rock Atrocity. After about 5 fails on the last move on the second day I found some great new beta making the move to the flake much easier. Next go i fell off matching the slot, didn't get there again, NNFN. 3 hour trip needed again over christmas now!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fuzzface93 on December 31, 2011, 03:09:13 pm
Mum lost her fight with cancer last night NNFN  :wavecry:

There's always a silver lining, she left me some money and told me to use it to go climbing. Chin up lad. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: b3n99 on December 31, 2011, 03:32:23 pm
Hope your OK Fuzzy mate, you know everyones at the warehouse is there for you if you need us!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fuzzface93 on December 31, 2011, 05:34:23 pm
Cheers ben, means a lot. Its been a long time coming, so i'm sort of ok. At this point it was more of a relief than anything.

Off topic, but on a somewhat cheerier note are you still organising a trip to font?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on December 31, 2011, 05:42:13 pm
Don't know you but I feel for you - lost my mum around Christmas time a few years ago.  Be strong fella :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 31, 2011, 05:58:08 pm
stay strong mate.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: leeroy on December 31, 2011, 06:15:53 pm
thats really rough man, gutted for you. as the others have said keep strong and make her proud  :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DaveyDave on January 18, 2012, 03:57:44 pm
Had my motorbike smashed and nicked, the police found it 2 miles away but now I have to pay £205 to have it returned, plus whatever else to get it repaired. Criminal. NNFN.  :furious: :furious: :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 19, 2012, 09:20:44 am
a friend of mine died on the ice. fucking sad news, he was 35 and a nice guy.
what a shame.
ciao Leo.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on January 19, 2012, 11:15:24 pm
sorry to hear that nibile. At least he went doing what he clearly loved. RIP
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 20, 2012, 10:15:47 am
Yes, that's the only thought that helps. thanks.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on January 28, 2012, 05:41:45 pm
 :( saw your FB post this morning and wondered what was up. Hope it's not too bad for you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 28, 2012, 10:10:37 pm
Gutted for you mate. Every cloud though!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on January 28, 2012, 11:43:48 pm

Bad luck Toby :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 29, 2012, 09:00:40 am
Guess you must be there by now. Is it too bad?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 29, 2012, 12:03:56 pm
I have fooked my right ankle.

I jumped off The Beaglestone onto a flat landing covered with several well stacked pads - the top one being one of those gold plated, flood and fire proof Ronin pads. I just landed funny with one foot on the edge of the pad.

This was the safest bouldering I have done for years - 3 spotters, plenty of pads. I even looked at the pads before and during my descent.

Fortunately for me, I was in the company of heroes (3 blokes I met on the internet).

I tried using a tripod and ski pole as crutches, but in the end Dolly, Tomtom and Shark's kids carried the pads and sacks while Shark carried me most of the way on his back. The others came back after dumping the kit and helped Shark move me.

Luckily for me, Minor Injuries at The Hallamshire were happy to sort me out, so I didn't have to go to A&E on a Saturday night.

The x-ray caused some confusion. It looked like there was an extra bone/object in my ankle. I suggested that here was proof of my alien abduction. Turns out that my talus must have been broken years ago. It's not just a chip of bone, it's a sizeable chunk - maybe an 8th of the original bone. It is unclear whether yesterday's sprain has moved it from where it has been quietly lurking for years. All I know is that my ankle and foot hurt a lot.

For those who might not appreciate Sharks achievement  - I weighed myself this morning at 95kg - that's without clothes, coat, shoes.

If any of you have a spare wad point that you want to give out, I suggest floating it Shark's way. Some of his motivation for carrying me was that he was curious to know whether he could do it (he may have used the word "intrigued", I'm not sure).

Thanks again lads
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on January 29, 2012, 12:30:01 pm
Ouch. :( Here's to a quick recovery.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on January 29, 2012, 01:19:44 pm
 :agree:

Knowing Shark he'd have considered it good training;-)

:D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 29, 2012, 01:19:58 pm
He'll be posting it in the Power Club thread as Sun - max enduro-cross-training 95kg x 1km or something ;)

Good luck lagers hope it heals well.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 29, 2012, 01:24:10 pm
I did think it odd that he was timing his rests
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 29, 2012, 01:41:37 pm
I did think it odd that he was timing his rests

He refused my offer to help carrying you and asked me to go and pick up his kit instead... ;)

Hope it's easing off a bit...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on January 29, 2012, 07:12:19 pm
I did think it odd that he was timing his rests


 :lol:

It was a challenge. Tried firemans chairlift to begin with but that put a worrying unequal strain on my back. Piggy back worked best for future reference. Did feel for Lagers. Not great to rely on another and be carried like a sack of potatoes. Hope the convalescence is short and not too frustrating.   
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: saltbeef on January 29, 2012, 07:16:18 pm
get well soon. see a specialist
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AndyR on January 29, 2012, 07:57:35 pm
Got one of those 5am phone calls that you know isn't good news before you answer it. My friend's first words were "I hope you have insurance". So: my house in Squamish is badly flooded thanks to a burst frozen pipe and I am on a flight to Vancouver tonight to check out the damage, meet loss adjusters, etc, etc. One tiny silver lining is that I might be able to sneak a few hours up at Whistler where there appears to be plenty of snow.

 :furious:

Give me a bell if you need some help - you've got my number haven't you?

p.s. temps cooling overnight - it'll be pukin' at Whistler...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on January 29, 2012, 08:12:31 pm
Shark carried me most of the way on his back. The others came back after dumping the kit and helped Shark move me.

Extreme Shoulder Ride (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kESpRVyqU6g#)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on January 29, 2012, 08:22:23 pm
Tired legs, but it would keep your ears warm.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Percy B on January 29, 2012, 09:17:34 pm
I once shared the carrying out of an injured friend of mine (well over 13 stone 'of muscle', so he claims) from Cul de Chien with a super competitive Scottish buddy. As I had first carry, I employed the piggyback method and laboured all the way up the hill through the sea of sand whilst trying to be gentle and smooth to avoid causing further trauma to my mates broken ankle. As we reached and passed the 'halfway back to the bloody car-park' point, due to the fact that I was imminently about to collapse, I finally gave in and handed over the carrying duties to Jock the Cock, who pointed out that I would have had an easier time had I removed my injured friends laden rucksack from his back before I'd picked him up.

 :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 29, 2012, 09:40:25 pm
I once shared the carrying out of an injured friend of mine (well over 13 stone 'of muscle', so he claims) from Cul de Chien with a super competitive Scottish buddy. As I had first carry, I employed the piggyback method and laboured all the way up the hill through the sea of sand whilst trying to be gentle and smooth to avoid causing further trauma to my mates broken ankle. As we reached and passed the 'halfway back to the bloody car-park' point, due to the fact that I was imminently about to collapse, I finally gave in and handed over the carrying duties to Jock the Cock, who pointed out that I would have had an easier time had I removed my injured friends laden rucksack from his back before I'd picked him up.

 :furious:
:D
:D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 29, 2012, 10:11:22 pm
andy cave & fbsf... partiai dislocated  ankle, big carry me home off stanage ... cheers lads. about 4 winters ago.. still cant feel where me left foot is on the pedals... but gettin better month on month...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dr T on February 01, 2012, 10:08:40 pm
a read of this thread and my long lingering cold, whilst depressing and debilitating, doesn't seem all that bad....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 02, 2012, 10:14:38 am
here's a pic of my "extra" bone which detached itself from my talus (I think '95/'96) - there's also a fracture on another bone (Lateral Malleolus?), so I am now in a pot and am thus not covered by my car insurance

parenting, work and child care are becoming more difficult

(http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/5048/anklewtf.jpg)

as you might expect from seeing that photo - the rogue bone chunk is stopping my ankle from closing the angle less than about 100 degrees
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 02, 2012, 10:20:20 am
WTF!

Poor Lagers, hope it heals okay and you cope as best you can in the meantime.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 02, 2012, 10:23:30 am
I am investigating mobility scooters - ideally to get Occupational Health to provide one.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on February 02, 2012, 10:31:41 am
Ah yes, I saw you out testing one the other day.

(http://bronanthebarbarian.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/fat-guy-on-scooter.jpeg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 02, 2012, 11:00:45 am
another couple of weeks of immobility and comfort eating and that's exactly how I'll look - not so clean shaven, minus the cap and with a can of Super in the drinks holder
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 02, 2012, 11:28:46 am
Ferk, Lagers thats grim... still in an odd way its good that they found this out I suppose...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 03, 2012, 02:50:17 pm
had a CT scan and seen a specialist - all of what Minor Injuries said was wrong...

lateral malleolus is not fractured

talus break is not an old one

CT scan shows that half of the talus has crushed to rubble - trying my best to weight it and increase range of movement will not have been helping this

going for re-constructive surgery on Tuesday

outlook not good

however, I've climbed with plenty of folk who have been total write-offs at some point....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 03, 2012, 02:54:19 pm
Bastard. How could they get it so wrong!?  :spank:  :chair:

At least they're operating quickly. Fingers crossed mate.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on February 03, 2012, 03:00:34 pm
Shit - hard luck mate.
Hopefully it will be a quick recovery.

Is that directly from the fall on Saturday or is that from previous damage or a combination ?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 03, 2012, 03:01:11 pm
Dammit!!L good luck and a fast recovery!!!
KEEP THE FAITH!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on February 03, 2012, 03:02:55 pm
Thats a shitter.

Bastard. How could they get it so wrong!?  :spank:  :chair:

Maybe they had the x-ray back to front the first time.  :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 03, 2012, 04:07:48 pm
Is that directly from the fall on Saturday or is that from previous damage or a combination ?

all from Saturday

the previous bone damage was merely a theory put forward by Minor Injustices to fit in with their other beliefs
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 03, 2012, 04:08:06 pm
Christ Lagers, that's bad. It didn't seem like a bone crushing fall! Maybe an ankle sprainer.. At least you have them doing something proper about it rather than Wang it in a pot and see what happens after 4 weeks.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 03, 2012, 04:09:04 pm
And get well soon... That's not good news... (sorry, slightly incoherent posting. )
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on February 03, 2012, 04:15:06 pm
Is that directly from the fall on Saturday or is that from previous damage or a combination ?
the previous bone damage was merely a theory put forward by Minor Injustices to fit in with their other beliefs

You were so sureabout it, you threw me with that.  Apologies!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 03, 2012, 06:15:46 pm
heal well mate. I'd defo go for the op, nasty fall.......

Fwiw these can be a twat to diagnose... good to see you got a CT.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: saltbeef on February 03, 2012, 07:11:44 pm
get well soon. see a specialist

glad you heeded the advice.

fingers crossed for you buddy - hope it gets sorted ASAP.

In reply to jasper - A&E or minor injuries is essentially a triage service, if they see someone with a cold then they can discharge with impunity, but complex fractures  or the like its better to see someone who knows what they are talking about.  I spend half my life dispelling myths and rumours that have been uttered as gospel by A and E, ambulance technicians, junior doctors, consultants in other specialties, GPs etc. (how does it feel from my ivory tower - fucking shit)

 There is a reason the spcialist knows what they are talking about is because that is all they do, they've done >5 years in specialist training on top of their basic training (4years +5years at medical school) and most likely an md or a phd. A junior doctor in A and E or a nurse practioner in minor injuries will have a fraction of the knowledge, they are there to make sure you don't die, sort out your pain and facilitate a smooth journey toward someone who knows what they are talking about.


and what fatdoc said - these ankle injuries can be a twat to diagnose and unless the x-ray is barn door then they will often need to do a CT

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 03, 2012, 07:42:26 pm
At least he didn't do it on a sit start though eh?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 03, 2012, 11:44:23 pm
 :agree:
get well soon. see a specialist

glad you heeded the advice.

fingers crossed for you buddy - hope it gets sorted ASAP.

In reply to jasper - A&E or minor injuries is essentially a triage service, if they see someone with a cold then they can discharge with impunity, but complex fractures  or the like its better to see someone who knows what they are talking about.  I spend half my life dispelling myths and rumours that have been uttered as gospel by A and E, ambulance technicians, junior doctors, consultants in other specialties, GPs etc. (how does it feel from my ivory tower - fucking shit)

 There is a reason the spcialist knows what they are talking about is because that is all they do, they've done >5 years in specialist training on top of their basic training (4years +5years at medical school) and most likely an md or a phd. A junior doctor in A and E or a nurse practioner in minor injuries will have a fraction of the knowledge, they are there to make sure you don't die, sort out your pain and facilitate a smooth journey toward someone who knows what they are talking about.


and what fatdoc said - these ankle injuries can be a twat to diagnose and unless the x-ray is barn door then they will often need to do a CT
:agree:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on February 04, 2012, 10:03:13 am

Bad luck Lagers, that sounds well nasty :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 06, 2012, 11:31:23 am
I weighed myself this morning at 95kg - that's without clothes, coat, shoes.


I'm trying to get rid of the Borat like image of Shark carrying you without clothes or coat on.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 06, 2012, 12:54:12 pm
I weighed myself this morning at 95kg - that's without clothes, coat, shoes.


I'm trying to get rid of the Borat like image of Shark carrying you without clothes or coat on.

At the time it seemed a little odd that Shark took all his clothes off... I thought it was to save weight.. :/
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 06, 2012, 05:27:20 pm
We're supposed to be flying to Tenerife on Friday morning. Mrs S just called to say it looks as if Raf may have chickenpox.

I don't believe it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on February 06, 2012, 05:34:10 pm
No way you can just apply make-up to cover the pox and take him anyway?  Seriously, that sucks nuts though...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 06, 2012, 09:58:31 pm
We're supposed to be flying to Tenerife on Friday morning. Mrs S just called to say it looks as if Raf may have chickenpox.

I don't believe it.

I assume she's blaming you?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Cretin on February 06, 2012, 11:40:39 pm
 :-\ :wall: Really enjoying climbing in the Beacon winter aggregate, but completely stuck on every problem that I've not ticked yet. Two whole sessions with nothing, NNFN!  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 07, 2012, 07:49:52 am
No way you can just apply make-up to cover the pox and take him anyway?  Seriously, that sucks nuts though...

As of last night he didn't have any on his face so we'll see!  ;)

The timing is unbelievable, if he'd got it a few days earlier he'd definitely have been past the contagious stage by Friday, as it is who knows.

Got to see what the doctor says today but at least we're covered by insurance if he can't fly. Really need this holiday though......
 >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 08, 2012, 12:58:11 pm
Well that's that. Doctor says no way he can be given a fit to fly letter. If we risked it and the airline refused to take us then we can't claim  on the insurance so there's no way it's worth it.

Much as I hate dealing with them, the insurance company have already said that we are definitely covered so hopefully we'll get all our money back (I'm counting no chickens).

 :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 08, 2012, 01:05:32 pm
harsh mate.

silver lining??
having chicken pox in childhood is often more mild than in adulthood.... less chnace of viral encephalitis and multi organ failure. make sure all yr kids get it this time, may as well have em all to blame  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 08, 2012, 01:17:49 pm
Cheers. Yeah I know it's much better for him to get it at this age. Just any other week of the year would have been better!

 :furious:

make sure all yr kids get it this time, may as well have em all to blame  ;)

We only have the one so it's all his fault.  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on February 08, 2012, 08:36:42 pm
It's been a while since I've had a proper car related NNFN , but I was driving the car this morning, and thought the steerimg felt odd. Had a quick look under the bonnet, and discovered the power steering fluid is virtually empty. There must be a leak. Shit. Oh well, I'll survive. Oh wait... that unusual box I just unplugged, was the ECU? Best plug it back in I guess. Hmmm... now why doesn't my car start? At all... like nothing is happening. Ok, so the lights work, but that is all. DAMN!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 08, 2012, 08:41:21 pm
Car issues suck. Hope it gets sorted soon.

I've had a power steering fluid leak from the steering rack for about 8 months now. To get it replaced is £950....reconditioned one is £350+....keeping it topped up has cost me about £40 so far.  :unsure:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on February 08, 2012, 08:54:40 pm
keeping it topped up has cost me about £40 so far.  :unsure:

That was my plan when I saw it. Then I got a proper smack in the mouth!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: clm on February 10, 2012, 10:27:36 pm
Cat pissed on my new peak bouldering guide
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on February 11, 2012, 09:09:34 am
told u not to get a cat
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F on February 11, 2012, 07:20:14 pm
My ankle made a nasty popping sound while doing a fairly easy problem at the NIBL. Cue swearing, pain, ice, vitamin I, hobbling and no more problems of note  >:(. Possible ligament/tendon damage, not sure what  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Probes on February 11, 2012, 07:37:04 pm
Ahh shit Andy  :thumbsdown: 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 11, 2012, 11:00:45 pm
After trying hard to fight off a shitty headcold for about a week, yesterday my voice disappeared. Still not back. Anyone know if it will clear up by itself, or do I need a course of antibiotics now?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatboySlimfast on February 12, 2012, 09:58:39 am
SA ive been on and off ill since mid December, was starting to feel ok and then last monday the whole family struck by some minging virus which has got to us all majorly. Dunno if ab will work, ive tried to work through it (wonder why i have been so ill????? work life balance maybe?) and having no voice was a problem!!!
Be nice to climb/bike even train at some point this new year
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 12, 2012, 11:40:06 am
After trying hard to fight off a shitty headcold for about a week, yesterday my voice disappeared. Still not back. Anyone know if it will clear up by itself, or do I need a course of antibiotics now?

It was a little hard to hear you then ;) but my weeklong headcold has just gone \o/ so maybe persevere?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 12, 2012, 08:26:30 pm
in no order of evidence base.... vit c.. eckinehcia (the real liquid stuff),  more fish & less meat, low processed carbs, regular fresh air... if working hard ringfence stress free time ( b'berries and iferns turn off).... yoga / meditation.... perhaps visualisation of goals and aims...

i should know, my last job nearly killed me as a person,  nai on ruined my family and  I put on 4 kg, hence couldn't climb 7a, hence felt worse, hence drank too much, hence job harder etc.... etc.... etc... spirals are made to be broken.


havin said that lot..... havin young uns and a bit of bad luck u can be ill for no god damn good reason, a lot, until they settle at school.....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mark s on February 13, 2012, 10:14:24 pm
finally decided to do an oil change on car yfy.rather than take the oil to a council approved waste oil container with proper health and saftey.i did the usual sharratt method of digging a hole in the garden and bunging it in.i covered it a bit of soil which floated on top.time for a dog walk,we both jumped in the car.then i noticed the oil on the back seat.the dog must have dunked its foot in it as it ran around the garden and it had a 7 inch boot of oil on its back leg  :wall: nnfn
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 13, 2012, 10:15:48 pm
Bit of Karma in operation there for not disposing of it properly perhaps..?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mark s on February 13, 2012, 10:18:13 pm
yep,that was my first thought.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mark s on February 15, 2012, 06:05:14 pm
what a negative life i must lead, another nnfn.an expected nnfn though.
i went the bouldering wall with turner today,chuffing hell.found it hard going managed a cpl of v4/5 not climbing for months and putting on weight even though im strong are not good for climbing.
conclusion if anyone says weights are good for climbing you have my permission to poke them in the eye.
a yyfy to finish it though,i did enjoy it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dr T on February 18, 2012, 07:22:43 pm
So......
Got spot on sequences for both my remaining problems on the island
That's where the good news ends...

Neither problem went - went back to the first after sorting the sequence - was wet.
So went to the second - sorted a sequence but ran out of arms - then it rained.
Then the car died on the way back... and the Arsenal lost.....
ho hmmmmm

and before anyone asks I don't have a dog so that's not gonna die next.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 22, 2012, 09:34:10 am
Gout

again

fortunately it's in the toe on my bust foot

this is what the inside of my ankle looks like with it's new metalwork

(http://local.twitpicproxy.com/web1/img/522598211-bce1bbee54242408da0eb2937d156289.4f44b598-full.jpg)

just waiting for vascular necrosis to set in
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: horn on March 17, 2012, 09:59:14 pm
Girlfriend was doing a core routine on one of those door frame pullup bars when it broke. Broken back no feeling below the  knees. Off for surgery soon. Fingers crossed.

NO NO FUCKING NO

All of you ch.eck how solid your bars are. Now. Please. Or don't do inverts without a spot.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Teaboy on March 17, 2012, 11:00:21 pm
Fuck me that's very harsh, I hope you make a swift and full recovery
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ianto9 on March 17, 2012, 11:07:45 pm
shit hope she's ok
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: grumpycrumpy on March 17, 2012, 11:32:31 pm
Jesus that sounds grim ....... Hope everything goes well ......
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 18, 2012, 04:08:34 pm
hope she's well soon!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on March 18, 2012, 04:43:52 pm

Fucking hell, hope she makes a full recovery, that's so unlucky :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on March 18, 2012, 04:59:21 pm
That's awful.  Fingers crossed for you....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 18, 2012, 06:56:43 pm
It might seem an odd thing to say...
But I hope she's just badly bruised.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: scribble on March 18, 2012, 10:37:14 pm
That's terrible! Hope she recovers fully soon.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: horn on March 20, 2012, 03:57:16 pm
Thanks y'all, I'll let her know she's got some love from the bouldering crew! she's in for surgery at the moment, but the doctors are telling us to fear the worst. so sad right now
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 20, 2012, 07:27:45 pm
Hang tight.
I know the sinking feeling.
I hope you don't need to know, but you'll be surprised how strong you can be.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: biscuit on March 20, 2012, 07:50:47 pm
Bollocks all you can say that will make any real difference but as others have said it's amazing what you can get through when you have to. I just hope you don't have to. Keep us posted if you feel like it.

All the luck in the world to you both.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 20, 2012, 07:59:33 pm
Stay strong. All the best to you both.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chris05 on March 20, 2012, 08:31:53 pm
That is terrible. Hope all goes better than expected.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on March 20, 2012, 08:35:56 pm
Fingers crossed.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on March 20, 2012, 08:41:37 pm
The very best of luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on March 20, 2012, 09:55:39 pm
We're all thinking of you both in the shop.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 21, 2012, 10:53:51 am
Can only echo what everyone else has said. Best of luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on March 21, 2012, 02:08:18 pm
Thats terrible, stay strong.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 21, 2012, 07:29:31 pm
Today.

They stopped treatment.

Palliative pain relief only.

Tick tock, tick tock.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 21, 2012, 07:34:39 pm
Shit, Matt. Be strong, me any my girlfriend are thinking of you and the family.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fried on March 21, 2012, 07:52:03 pm
Difficult to know what to say, but our thoughts are with you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chris05 on March 21, 2012, 07:53:54 pm
For what its worth, we're thinking of you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 21, 2012, 08:00:24 pm
holy shit Matt, that's terrible.
I feel useless, you're all in my thoughts.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 21, 2012, 08:00:47 pm
I'm so sorry Matt.

And for you and your girlfriend Horn, these have been a couple of very bad days round here.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on March 21, 2012, 08:08:19 pm
Want to say something, but don't know what. My thoughts are with you both.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: iain on March 21, 2012, 08:15:33 pm

So, so sorry Matt. Thoughts don't do much, but they're with you anyway. Take care of your family and yourself.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on March 21, 2012, 08:22:17 pm
Devastating news Matt - can't begin to think what you're all going through.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on March 22, 2012, 11:15:14 pm
sorry to hear your bad news matt.  take care, were all thinking of you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ianto9 on March 23, 2012, 12:13:17 am
i don't know know you both but stay strong,hoping for the best for you
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 23, 2012, 10:44:05 am
As usual words fail me. All strength to you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on March 23, 2012, 07:11:19 pm
Only know you through your writings on here Matt, but you and your family are in our thoughts.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 24, 2012, 12:26:07 pm
Good luck to you both.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dr T on March 24, 2012, 07:50:06 pm
crap....
thoughts as always...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 25, 2012, 06:27:09 pm
So so sorry to hear that Matt.. Be strong
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chriss on April 07, 2012, 03:42:49 pm
After reading the above terrible news I feel very lucky in comparison, to echo everyone else hoping for a full recovery.

Yesterday I came off my bike at Aston Hills. I spent 2 hours strapped to a spine board, but only came away with 4 fractured ribs, partially dislocated shoulder, cuts & whiplash. Dodged the proverbial bullet me thinks....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on April 08, 2012, 01:34:37 pm
i know yours is bad news chriss but its actually good news coming away from any bike accident with injuries that will fully heal is good. have come off my motorbike a few times over the years and always thanked my lucky stars. good to hear you will be ok
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 13, 2012, 09:52:38 am
Mrs S was going to start having coaching sessions once a week on Monday ahead of wanting to do a bit more climbing in Font this year. She was looking forward to gaining a bit more confidence and being able to enjoy the trip more..........

She tripped over on Wednesday and broke her wrist. Getting it pinned on Thursday. We go on 2nd June.

NNFN.  :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on April 13, 2012, 09:58:01 am
Thats harsh, hope its not too painful for her.  At least you can all still go away unlike last time.

What would Jerry do?

(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/556182_288305851244274_110552822352912_650416_1133935035_n.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 13, 2012, 10:01:16 am
At least you can all still go away unlike last time.


Hadn't thought of that. We're not having a huge amount of luck with holidays.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2012, 10:42:28 am
Bad news. At least she can still do walk ins, but won't be much good spotting!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 13, 2012, 10:57:56 am
she can't even share the driving
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 13, 2012, 11:13:09 am
I don't want her to share the driving. I'm looking forward to it.  ;)

Bad news. At least she can still do walk ins, but won't be much good spotting!

Going with my Mum and her husband who also climbs so that wont be such a problem.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 13, 2012, 03:20:51 pm
With pins it could be a pretty quick recovery time even if she is as much of an OAP as you Jasper??

Also Font....there's so much easy / slabby / low bouldering there that even with a 50% wrist on one arm there must be loads to do??

 :kiss2:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on April 13, 2012, 03:28:40 pm
Still be looking at 6ish weeks, and I prob wouldn't recommend climbing on it for a bit!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2012, 04:10:06 pm
I don't want her to share the driving. I'm looking forward to it.  ;)

Bad news. At least she can still do walk ins, but won't be much good spotting!

Going with my Mum and her husband who also climbs so that wont be such a problem.

That's Ok then, as long as she can still cook! :)
Washing up might be a problem though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 13, 2012, 04:33:42 pm
knowing what Mrs Sharpe is like about needing people to feel included and keeping things fair to within 0.001%... I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if she bust her arm just to make me feel less of a twat
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on April 23, 2012, 01:50:04 pm
Well I didn't get the RA position which has left me a bit gutted and thrown a spanner into general future planning.

The interview went very well but at the end of the day my thesis was computationally based and the preffer ed candidate carried out a lab based project (the position is mainly lab based with computational processing).

On the one hand it feels good that it was simply experience that swung things and I was very close to getting the offer, n the other hand if there were people that would take a punt on me, they were in that room.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 23, 2012, 02:05:32 pm
Bad luck Paul. Other irons in the fire though?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on April 23, 2012, 02:23:31 pm
Bad luck Paul. Other irons in the fire though?

Kind of? There's currently nothing else in the department that's suitable.

I've got a phone interview today with a company who want to be able to quantify the quality of work they outsource (relevant to my studies), but he's not able to recruit, he can only pass my CV to those that can and I can't really figure out if its just an opportunity for them (/him) to gain some knowledge with no outlay. Even if he could, it'd likely be in Warrington.

Besides that industry beckons, but the inflexibility (with 4 year periods for professional review) doesn't currently appeal.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 23, 2012, 02:24:06 pm
Clearly the job wasn't supposed to be yours, and this interview was for training purposes only.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 23, 2012, 02:44:08 pm
Ask for feedback - official and unofficial... all experience - and competition for even shortlisting is intense nowadays from what I look at..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 28, 2012, 11:51:46 am
twenty-fuc*****g-seven degrees today. rain tomorrow. no waves.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 28, 2012, 12:29:16 pm
Ask for feedback - official and unofficial... all experience - and competition for even shortlisting is intense nowadays from what I look at..

Too true - I recently failed to get shortlisted for a job I was specifically invited to apply for by people who know me and my work very well. They just received a stellar field and I lost out (they shortlisted three, I was fourth).

I wouldn't despair Paul, you say if anyone would take a punt on you it would be that panel, but it sounds as though there was just a candidate closer to the required spec. Its one of the oddities of the academic world; fields are small, people know each other, favours are done sometimes but it can be very pragmatic and unsentimental and job requirements extremely specific. Doesn't mean a panel that knows you much less well won't see you as what they need. Can be good to get out from supervisors coat-tails too.

Doesn't mean it isn't disappointing of course.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 28, 2012, 05:15:49 pm
Ask for feedback - official and unofficial... all experience - and competition for even shortlisting is intense nowadays from what I look at..

Too true - I recently failed to get shortlisted for a job I was specifically invited to apply for by people who know me and my work very well. They just received a stellar field and I lost out (they shortlisted three, I was fourth).

I wouldn't despair Paul, you say if anyone would take a punt on you it would be that panel, but it sounds as though there was just a candidate closer to the required spec. Its one of the oddities of the academic world; fields are small, people know each other, favours are done sometimes but it can be very pragmatic and unsentimental and job requirements extremely specific. Doesn't mean a panel that knows you much less well won't see you as what they need. Can be good to get out from supervisors coat-tails too.

Doesn't mean it isn't disappointing of course.

Besides you never know what happens in an interview. We interviewed for two jobs last week - and for one the three interviewees came accross comletely differently than on paper. According to applications, there was one outstanding applicant, but with some gentle probing it became clear they were not right etc.. and the surprise came from the seemingly very capable outsider (on paper..)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 28, 2012, 09:33:35 pm
Ask for feedback - official and unofficial... all experience - and competition for even shortlisting is intense nowadays from what I look at..

Too true - I recently failed to get shortlisted for a job I was specifically invited to apply for by people who know me and my work very well. They just received a stellar field and I lost out (they shortlisted three, I was fourth).

I wouldn't despair Paul, you say if anyone would take a punt on you it would be that panel, but it sounds as though there was just a candidate closer to the required spec. Its one of the oddities of the academic world; fields are small, people know each other, favours are done sometimes but it can be very pragmatic and unsentimental and job requirements extremely specific. Doesn't mean a panel that knows you much less well won't see you as what they need. Can be good to get out from supervisors coat-tails too.

Doesn't mean it isn't disappointing of course.

Andy, may I say something you posted to me on here... Don't get pushed.... Consider big moves only if pulled. Really helped me...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 28, 2012, 09:41:09 pm
She went back into the hospice yesterday.

She can't eat.

I kept trying to put something in the blog.

I can't.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SpanishJuan on May 21, 2012, 10:37:56 am
NFN..., stuck in bed for the third day after doing something freaky to my back on friday. For some reason when i'm laying flat on my back it feels like my legs are crossed I go to move them and realise they are both straight. and for some reason my right knee hurts like hell as well as my back. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: battery on May 21, 2012, 05:30:36 pm
Working for a company which is supposedly keen to invest in its staff and provide CPD. Been asking for project management training since I started, formal CPD programme has been put in place, project management training seems a bit surplus to requirements as I've now been doing the job to 3 years so asked for a specific course around people management and communication. Got told they can't afford to have me out of the office for three days, that it is too expensive and that line management isn't part of my responsibilities. Line management isn't but contracting and briefing freelances is and it's a PEOPLE management course, not LINE management. What's the point in having an all singing all dancing CPD programme if you're not willing to let the staff out of the office to do anything!

Needed to rant here before my head exploded.  :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: horn on May 26, 2012, 01:48:00 pm
NFN..., stuck in bed for the third day after doing something freaky to my back on friday. For some reason when i'm laying flat on my back it feels like my legs are crossed I go to move them and realise they are both straight. and for some reason my right knee hurts like hell as well as my back.

Shit man, sounds like a disc pressing on a nerve. Get it seen to asap and good luck!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lukeh on May 26, 2012, 07:51:51 pm
Spent the day in the bike saddle rather than climbing to give my elbows some time off...

Am now sat on the sofa with frozen peas on my knee. Bugger.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 03, 2012, 04:49:47 pm
went to the roof today, and found the crucial hold - the pinch - on the roof direct, modified. there used to be a pebble on the lip that made it very hard to hold, and now it's gone, leaving a flat, incut lip that you can bone down with no problem.
this is what happens when you give too much publicity to a place. I knew it was only a matter of time. I should have spoken my mind when I felt it coming. I knew that every idiot from the galaxy would have come to try big numbers, and for sure one of these idiots thought that after all pulling away that pebble was legit to claim the problem.
now I've lost all the desire to get back there and finish my project topping it out. the move is sensibly easier now, and I don't know if trying to restore it with some sika drops is a good idea. of course despite looking around for a while I could not find the broken bit anywhere.
there are some poor souls out there.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Stenno on June 06, 2012, 02:44:41 pm
NNFN, first proper injury just as I was feeling strong. A2 pulleys on left ring and right middle fingers, probably overtraining.
 
My first post on here, sorry it's a negative one. Found this board looking for some injury advice and there's some great banter on here so thanks for the cheering up lads.  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 06, 2012, 03:46:56 pm
went to the roof today, and found the crucial hold - the pinch - on the roof direct, modified........there are some poor souls out there.

Kind of you to call them poor souls, I would opt for Cunts.

Gutted for you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 06, 2012, 08:00:47 pm
thanks Chris.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mark s on June 10, 2012, 12:00:06 pm
my 14 month old daughter squeeled with joy at the sight of a horse....
i really dont want this,going have to start telling her they are bred for meat and the people riding them are taking them the slaughter house.
there no way she going get in with the horsey set
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 10, 2012, 12:53:39 pm
Start on a course of showing her steam trains, tractors, fire engines and diggers :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 10, 2012, 01:46:35 pm

there no way she going get in with the horsey set

I Would start aversion therapy now.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 10, 2012, 08:22:13 pm
went to the roof today, and found the crucial hold - the pinch - on the roof direct, modified........there are some poor souls out there.

Kind of you to call them poor souls, I would opt for Cunts.

Gutted for you.

Shit Lore. That is fucking terrible. I agree, total cunts.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 20, 2012, 05:40:45 am
6 am, 29 degrees?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 20, 2012, 07:50:21 am
6 am, 29 degrees?

At least it's not raining! (I assume)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on June 20, 2012, 02:52:30 pm
Well, I always had myself down as a mix of Jude Law and a young Clint eatswood.
(https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQOqKBc0HkpReh8eopulVdiAu97Di7AfULCy7-xBSVFWlqyJe4VVg)(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc10/mr_josephus/Clint01.jpg)



Toady, some cunt selling Gas/Electric stopped me and penciled me in as a dead ringer for Kenny Everett  :(
(https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQYkN1T7Jvm8mBHpMe9IdmdxDducMZoh1GfCPcpI5s2-2v9rAfn)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 20, 2012, 03:01:54 pm
Toady, some cunt selling Gas/Electric stopped me and penciled me in as a dead ringer for Kenny Everett  :(

were you bumming nick at the time? people often don't see past the behaviour in these circumstances
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on June 20, 2012, 03:15:08 pm
Not this time. Taking fucking liberties if you ask me. Bradford shopping Arcade at lunchtime.  Minding my own business, flouncing about as per, don't even think I was still suggestively crossing and recrossing my legs. :shrug:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 20, 2012, 03:25:22 pm
were you wearing a fucking huge pair of foam hands?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 20, 2012, 05:04:25 pm
were you wearing a fucking huge pair of foam hands?

While bumming Nik?

Skills.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wood FT on June 20, 2012, 06:27:26 pm
On the bumming tip - bit of NNFN as I had an inverted fall last night, punctured my left buttock on a cheedale knob and hurt my back leading to rapey blood stains on my slacks and much hillarity at my cost (after initial concern), YYFY it wasn't my coccyx but i'll be out for a week or so  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 20, 2012, 07:05:18 pm
Grr.. just had the numbing email notification that a Nature submission I lead authored has been rejected.
One good review, but the other reviewer was "the worst person it could have gone to". They spent 4000 words bitterly tearing us apart (we only had 2000 for the fecking article itself). My publising nemesis has struck again and prevented a possible career high.

Tits^10.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 20, 2012, 07:15:28 pm
Bugger! But only 2000 words. Are all Nature articles that long? And 4000 words, that is some review. Nothing constructive at all?

I've collected some classic reviews the last few months, e.g. "pseudo-intellectual bullshit". Another recommended we "employ a copy editor as English clearly isn't your first language" (knowing full well it is), and more. Even better, all of these went on to be accepted.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 20, 2012, 07:24:29 pm
Bugger! But only 2000 words. Are all Nature articles that long? And 4000 words, that is some review. Nothing constructive at all?

I've collected some classic reviews the last few months, e.g. "pseudo-intellectual bullshit". Another recommended we "employ a copy editor as English clearly isn't your first language" (knowing full well it is), and more. Even better, all of these went on to be accepted.

Yup - only 4 pages (text figures refs etc...), We're going to appeal to the editors - but I'd give that a 10% chance. In many ways you should have to convince your worst critic, but it seems like in this case we dont get the chance.. The review had an intro, then went through each section and its own conclusions! You get used to the knock backs in academia.. but they still hurt.

A stiff gin. A rare steak then off to the pub to moan ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 20, 2012, 07:34:53 pm
gin + steak + pub = fu*k off fu**ing reviewer.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 20, 2012, 08:15:05 pm
Several stiff gins.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on June 20, 2012, 08:58:45 pm
Do you not get to review his review?

If only academia was like a Tarantino movie:

"Please allow me to retort...." said Samuel L. Jackson stylee whilst cocking a handgun in his face.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 20, 2012, 09:22:06 pm
Do you not get to review his review?

If only! I've never even heard of appealing to the editor as TT suggested he might.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on June 20, 2012, 10:05:59 pm
 That sucks.

What confuses me is that every academic has experienced this yet I often hear others relishing relaying stories where they've rejected this and that (I'm not suggesting this is you TomTom).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Stu Littlefair on June 20, 2012, 10:14:37 pm
TomTom - you're perfectly within your rights to request a second opinion on the article, although to be honest, if it's nature, the replacement referee will have to fucking love it for it to get through, as they normally reject articles if the referee is even lukewarm about it.

Don't give up yet.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on June 20, 2012, 11:02:30 pm
That sounds well shit... If rejected from the alleged learned medical press these days 2nd and 3rd reviews for important / unique work are common.

On a related note I've been asked to author a chapter in the new Oxford handbook for surgeons... Slightly scared, honoured and I'm putting aside 100 hrs for 2000 words, on a subject I'm well placed to write on... U academics out there... Reasonable time consideration?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 20, 2012, 11:50:44 pm
Thanks folks...

Several stiff gins.

A few pints of Wold Gold did the trick..

What confuses me is that every academic has experienced this yet I often hear others relishing relaying stories where they've rejected this and that (I'm not suggesting this is you TomTom).

Yup - sadly do unto others what they do to you tends to pervade.. supervisees tend to pick up the academic habits of supervisors and so it continues..

Usually its all anonymous too! Though this referee named themselves - which fair play they're fronting up to stand by what they say..

TomTom - you're perfectly within your rights to request a second opinion on the article, although to be honest, if it's nature, the replacement referee will have to fucking love it for it to get through, as they normally reject articles if the referee is even lukewarm about it.

Don't give up yet.

Thanks Stu - we'll see what happens. I went for the softly softly - this is how science operates - approach. And also pointed out that one neutral referee and one with heavily vested interests didnt make a good balance! You never know - and I wouldnt know if I didnt try, but I dont hold up much hope. Its Nature FFS, what has happend to me is the academic equivalent of chatting up a supermodel, she gives youher room number.. you wander up and nearly make it to knocking on the door ;)

On a related note I've been asked to author a chapter in the new Oxford handbook for surgeons... Slightly scared, honoured and I'm putting aside 100 hrs for 2000 words, on a subject I'm well placed to write on... U academics out there... Reasonable time consideration?

Sounds a little generous - I'd say 500 a day for me, but if you're out of practice then you'd need more time.. horses for courses, different disciplines/experience etc..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 21, 2012, 05:32:10 am
I rejected something last week but didn't really enjoy it, they submitted to the wrong journal to be honest (and there were flaws) but tried to be constructive. Wrote one truly terrible savage book review once, which is worse as it would go public, but the book was incredibly bad. Luckily I've never come across the author since. Again, not something I enjoyed.

Fatdoc, that sounds very generous - if I'm ready to sit down and write (have all my notes and materials etc.) then I often manage 1500 or more in day - but I have been writing a lot recently. As Tom says it might be discipline dependent - tho I didn't think science types did any actual writing, just a few numbers and figures etc.

A minor academic NNFN, I have to go to Sheffield today .... but only to spend the day externalling.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 21, 2012, 06:32:03 am
And congrats on the commission.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 21, 2012, 11:04:19 am
Those who can do, those who can't become critics.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 21, 2012, 04:50:52 pm
Thank you for all the postive comments yesterday... we have a partial outcome! We sent a gently pleading email to the editor that got a result (edited/name changed email correspondence below..) Starting bottom to top.... I suspect we'll get stiffed again, but pleased to have the chance to fight back. Fuck Yeah!


From: B
Sent:
To: TomTom

Hi TomTom,
  It would be considered a revised version.
With regards,

B
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: TomTom
Sent: 21 June 2012 09:46
To: B
Subject: RE: Decision on Nature XXXXX

Hello B, thanks for getting back so swiftly..
I’ll put it to the other authors (it was very much a team effort) and take it from there. Just to clarify – would this be a resubmission, or resubmission treated effectively as a new paper would?
Thanks,
TomTom
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: B
Sent: 21 June 2012 09:26
To: TomTom

Dear TomTom,

  Thank you for your e-mail.  I must admit that I am not convinced that a straightforward revision along the lines you discuss would be suitable for Nature.  As you are probably aware, in addition to being technically correct, for manuscripts to be appropriate, they must also robust conceptual advance in scientific understanding, which in this case would be firmly demonstrating both the existence of the X your model predicts as well as their importance for Y.  In light of comments from both reviewers, it is not clear that a straightforward revision would allow you to do this. 

  However, if, after considerable future work, you are able to meet the above threshold, I would be happy to consider a resubmission.

With regards,
B

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on June 21, 2012, 06:16:46 pm
Tom - congratulations on getting anywhere near Nature.  Do the editors nominate reviewers, if so, is it possible to request that certain individuals or groups are not used?  Some journals encourage this, acknowledging that academic rivalry can bias the reviewing process.  Even if they don't, it may be possible to request this informally.  Possibly a hight-risk strategy but worth discussing with your other authors.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on June 21, 2012, 06:19:07 pm
A ray of light, might just sneak into the forthcoming REF too.  Good luck with it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 22, 2012, 07:58:11 am
R&R, not a bad result Tomtom, was obviously worth trying.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 22, 2012, 11:47:03 am
R&R, not a bad result Tomtom, was obviously worth trying.

Thanks - yes it was! The best thing is, intead of that oh bugger - put the paper to the bottom of the pile and forget about it for 6 months routine - is that now me and the other authors are really fired up to do something!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 17, 2012, 03:03:09 pm
Probable car death, I hate fucking cars.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 17, 2012, 03:05:47 pm
Good luck nik, hope it's just something minor. I hate them too.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 17, 2012, 03:14:22 pm
Stallioni told me you love fucking cars.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on July 17, 2012, 03:17:33 pm
Stallioni told me you love fucking cars.

Doesn't look like Nick...

My car is my lover 2/5 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwKJsPF7LNE#noexternalembed-ws)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on July 17, 2012, 03:28:19 pm
You should of kept the van
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 17, 2012, 04:22:49 pm
Tell me about it. It may have looked like moss on wheels but it was the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned (although to be fair that isn't saying much).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2012, 11:33:41 am
Kate or Stirling?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 18, 2012, 11:56:02 am
(http://images.wikia.com/theitcrowd/images/7/7a/00b8d90b-8380-48c3-8b83-0d6e6963a622_412x232.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on July 18, 2012, 12:29:50 pm
 :jaw:

Is this the French piece of shit or the Italian piece of shit?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 18, 2012, 01:53:30 pm
French piece of shit. Maybe I should start thinking about a Volvo...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on July 18, 2012, 01:57:41 pm
Yeah, join the Old Man club.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2012, 02:43:39 pm
Get a Focus. Dull as ditchwater (the average UK variety, not the cool LA stuff), common as muck, but reliable and easy to service and maintain. Like a Volvo with no personality.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: galpinos on July 18, 2012, 04:11:19 pm
Like a Volvo with no personality.

Drives better than a volvo though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2012, 04:23:51 pm
I can only compare to the old Volvo 240 I had so will have to agree.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: gcarmichael on July 27, 2012, 10:38:55 pm
Staminaband (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eAWHJEJLrBo#ws)

Footage from this evening, bit of a ridiculous reaction at the end...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 30, 2012, 12:52:05 pm
Completely understandable reaction. I've watched the end about six times and still can't work out what actually happened! You did the move and just stepped off....

 :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 30, 2012, 04:28:08 pm
Good bemused wandering. I tend to a. stare at the rock in complete disbelief. b. swear repeatedly, incoherantly/etc..

My favourite was after grasping- yet deciding for some reason completeley beyond me to ungrasp the top of Deliverance (I've still not got as close!).

This was at the same time as a coached climbing trip from the Works was swarming all over the boulder, and my repeated bellowing of 'CUUUUNNNNNT' turned a few heads and gained a few evil stares.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 30, 2012, 04:30:43 pm
Ouch! That's like having both feet on top of the problem yet somehow slipping off the top out (which I've done)...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: gcarmichael on July 30, 2012, 09:56:17 pm
Even closer this evening, can't believe i fell off here!  :no:
Staminaband Fail (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMClRMiroMI#ws)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on July 31, 2012, 08:40:41 am
I think a fall or two right at the end are obligatory on Staminaband. Pretty sure I came off the same move. Dropping that right foot off is far from piss when you’re boxed.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 01, 2012, 10:19:39 am
Don't say that! It'll get in his head....

I always used to fall off the move down off the glassy sika pinchy thing (1.10 on George's vid). If I got past there I did it. Mind you, it's completely different now.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 01, 2012, 10:24:03 am
Different in so far as if you can do 4 moves on it you are happy?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Three Nine on August 01, 2012, 10:35:03 am
I cant drop my right foot down at all; its the only move i cant do. I can get my right hand down ok, but then as soon as right foot comes off I fall  :shrug:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 01, 2012, 10:39:14 am
Different in so far as if you can do 4 moves on it you are happy?

If I could walk at the moment I'd be happy but yes, something like that........ What I meant was that the footholds have changed so much that some of the moves that used to be easy are hard and vice versa.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on August 01, 2012, 11:35:49 am
 :agree:
This is true. The middle bit used to be the crux and was on terrible footholds. Which goes a long way to explaining why PB used to get 7c+ (as did SB!).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Baldy on August 22, 2012, 01:32:55 pm
NNFN!

Last day in Rocklands today, and I had been sessioning Caroline pretty hard.

I was going to put in two big days yesterday and today so I could do it.

Yesterday I got to the final crimp, a position I have never fallen from. And then fell from there.  :wall:

I wouldnt have been too pissed, but I also got the deepest split I have ever had. Deep and wide on the right ring finger..

9 days left, hopefully the skin can heal and I can send!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 23, 2012, 01:15:16 pm
Torrential rain yesterday as soon as i stepped out of office. 20 min walk to car saw most torrential rain I've ever seen up here, softshell soaked though in 5 mins. Stopped and sun came out as soon as I got to car! Everything soaked, and got to work today and laptop dead in spite of optimistic leaving out to dry overnight (was in my backpack) so now trying to make do with a crappy loaner with loads of stuff i normally rely on not working.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on August 24, 2012, 09:37:06 pm
So fucking cunting Ryanair have cancelled our flight out to Italy at the end of October.
We've booked the return flight and the hotel for the 5 of us and my yearly week in the Italian October sun pretending to be a real roadie. They say we can book an alternative to another airport subject to availability.
Customer service doesn't open until 10 tomorrow when I will be giving them the full extent of my love
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 26, 2012, 05:32:16 pm
Went to the project yesterday, pulled on and felt really strong. While I was enjoying the feeling of dominating the move, the left hand starting hold, a whide pinch, exploded in a thousand pieces...
The sitter is still doable but now I'll have to use a foothold as the left hand starting hold. That was hard for me already, really didn't need it to be harder! Next time!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 28, 2012, 03:21:33 pm
It's harder but still doable? This should be in YYFY Lore!  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 28, 2012, 03:34:59 pm
It's harder but still doable? This should be in YYFY Lore!  ;)
Ahah, I was about to post it there!!!
It will be there when I do it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on August 30, 2012, 11:09:37 pm
Ripped holes in 4 out of 8 fingers(two more are nearly ripped through) working another long-term(decade+) project, right after dialing in all of the beta. No chance of getting back to it until all of the skin heals, which may be 2-3 weeks, and then it'll be a race between sedning and snowfall....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: biscuit on September 01, 2012, 06:52:04 pm
Not normally one for sharing misery but just as the hot weather looks to be on its way out over here and i am feeling fit and light i've gone and cracked my ribs due to drunken idiots fighting ( not me ).

3-6 weeks i reckon and i will see all my recent gains disappear  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 01, 2012, 06:59:23 pm
Uve only cracked your ribs biscuit. Give it 2wks n start climbing again

When other people are fighting I don't normally ave any injuries to speak of  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: biscuit on September 01, 2012, 07:13:02 pm
Can it heal that quick ? Good news, thanks  :thumbsup:

I stupidly stepped in to sort it out, they were fighting in my friend's bar, and the biggest fattest one fell on top of me.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 01, 2012, 08:32:52 pm
Women eh, what can u do

I was climbing the day after cracking a rib, shortness of breath seemed to be the only annoying thing so after couple more days climbing, was on a mini trip, I rested a wk or two n all seemed ok.

Disclaimer:I'm an idiot
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: biscuit on September 02, 2012, 02:29:36 pm
Disclaimer:I'm an idiot

That's OK cos so am i  :great:

Feeling a little less pissed off today and may have a quick hang off the BM later to see what hurts and where and then i can start to test it out every couple of days. I believe in working around injuries not stopping everything but ribs seems to be quite limiting. I can't run, do core or anything.

Anyway, less whinging. It can only get better from here.

Good to know it may not be too long term so thanks for that
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 04, 2012, 06:05:16 pm
I went out to work my project and my friend raps down it to check out the holds and breaks the crux pinch hold.  >:(

It was right at my limit and I wasn't sure if I could do it without getting stronger.  Now its even harder.   :wall:

I'm pretty confident it still goes though, just maybe not this year, and maybe not by me.....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on September 04, 2012, 07:45:17 pm
even more insentive to get stronger shirley?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 04, 2012, 07:54:24 pm
even more insentive to get stronger shirley?

Absolutely, and don't call me shirley.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on September 04, 2012, 09:49:33 pm
Disclaimer:I'm an idiot

That's OK cos so am i  :great:

Feeling a little less pissed off today and may have a quick hang off the BM later to see what hurts and where and then i can start to test it out every couple of days. I believe in working around injuries not stopping everything but ribs seems to be quite limiting. I can't run, do core or anything.

Anyway, less whinging. It can only get better from here.

Good to know it may not be too long term so thanks for that
Disclaimer; This isn't going to help...and I am also partial to the occasional bout of idiocy, so went I wiped out snowboarding with a camera in my chest pocket, I cracked a rib or two. Or I probably cracked a rib. After several weeks of not being able to sneeze, cough, laugh, breath deeply without severe pain I went to A& E where they said I had probably just bruised them. But if I had broken them the treatment is the same they just make months not weeks to get better.
So if your not in excruciating pain every time you cough, you've hopefully just bruised them and they should heal in a few weeks.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 05, 2012, 08:35:27 am
Friend of mine did exactly the same thing with a bottle of suncream.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on September 05, 2012, 01:09:28 pm

 so went I wiped out snowboarding with a camera

Obi-Wan or Yoda?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on September 05, 2012, 01:24:14 pm
:

 so went I wiped out snowboarding with a camera

Obi-Wan or Yoda?
poor at typing on phone I am.  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 05, 2012, 01:44:46 pm
This is not the sentence structure you are looking for... *waves hand slowly*
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on September 05, 2012, 10:43:54 pm
Fluffed a damn onsight!

Grrr.... Fell off a move low down and getting a little wrong-handed. After a quick up, no too pumped, down and rest, I got back on and led it cleanly to the top. Partial YYFY for nailing the proper crux onsight but ultimately a bit disappointing.

I don't get it - I've onsighted one confirmed E5 and put up a route at Neist that we graded E5 (but who knows, could be E4) but, for some unknown reason, I've never cleanly onsighted an E4. I've done E4 "equivalent" pitches in Canada and 7b sport, I don't get scared above gear but for some reason I just seem to have fluffed a few. (to be fair, I've only actually attempted seven routes given E4)

Must be poor tactics as I've done some E3s recently that didn't feel too bad. Grrrrrrrrrrr!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2012, 10:16:27 am
Sounds like reading the rock is the problem? Were all the other routes you've done at similar grade obvious what to do and get the grade for reasons other than tricky squences?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on September 06, 2012, 11:01:24 am
I think so. I probably went a bit to full-steam ahead. More patience and prep in my tectics I think.

More mileage on similar stuff would help but that's nigh on impossible (limestone E3as and E4s in Scotland anyone??)

Like I say, chuffed to onsight the top crux as it felt like a harder move.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2012, 11:18:27 am
Harder move to execute, or harder move to perform?

I guess (and this being no slight on you Ali) this may be a product of shitty weather resulting in spending too much time indoors and occasionally snatching a few dry hours working on ticking hard problems,  rather than getting out on the rock and onsighting (or attempting to onsight) routes at your limit.

I don't think the similar stuff would have to be the same rock; any vertical (ish) fingery rock will provide a similar experience.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on September 06, 2012, 11:38:33 am
Harder move to execute, or harder move to perform?

Not quite sure what you mean there, but, having done the low move twice (well, once almost and once actually) I don't think it as physically strenuous or technically difficult as the top move. I plain and simple approached it the wrong way but the correct way is not particularly devious or unobvious. It was a case of pinky down in the crack and face left, rather than pinky up and face right. One way works, the other doesn't.

The top move (unless there's an easier way, which is more than possible) is slightly more obvious (there is only one useful hold and it's a bigger move to the next useful hold, a bit barndoorey and thinner feet). James also cruised the low crux, but took a few goes on the high crux on second.


I guess (and this being no slight on you Ali) this may be a product of shitty weather resulting in spending too much time indoors and occasionally snatching a few dry hours working on ticking hard problems, rather than getting out on the rock and onsighting (or attempting to onsight) routes at your limit.


More than true, but I'm more annoyed that I've done about 4km of climbing in the last 6 weeks so I felt I should be able to do it. Mileage on any rock type, onsight, close enough for weekday trips in the E3/E4 range is....well...not easy to find!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2012, 11:41:37 am
Mileage on any rock type, onsight, close enough for weekday trips in the E3/E4 range is....well...not easy to find!

Move then! :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on September 06, 2012, 11:51:24 am
I am - November 24th, Chamonix.  :punk:

Part of the reason why I'm jumping on routes midweek that I've been saving for the onsight for a while...time is running out!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: biscuit on September 06, 2012, 11:53:03 am

Disclaimer; This isn't going to help...and I am also partial to the occasional bout of idiocy, so went I wiped out snowboarding with a camera in my chest pocket, I cracked a rib or two. Or I probably cracked a rib. After several weeks of not being able to sneeze, cough, laugh, breath deeply without severe pain I went to A& E where they said I had probably just bruised them. But if I had broken them the treatment is the same they just make months not weeks to get better.
So if your not in excruciating pain every time you cough, you've hopefully just bruised them and they should heal in a few weeks.
[/quote]

Cheers for that. I can breathe deeply, cough without too much pain but sneezing is BAD.
A&E said the same to me ( i think, my A&E Spanish is not up to scratch ) They may be fractured, they may not but it's the same treatment as long as they are not puncturing a lung - which they obviously weren't.

I've climbed again and it's still too painful really so i am hoping another week and it'll be OK to get back to it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: biscuit on September 06, 2012, 11:55:43 am
I am - November 24th, Chamonix.  :punk:

Part of the reason why I'm jumping on routes midweek that I've been saving for the onsight for a while...time is running out!

Nice one  :dance1:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tregiffian on September 06, 2012, 12:37:02 pm
Hello Pierre d`Orthaz.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2012, 12:38:38 pm
I am - November 24th, Chamonix.  :punk:

That will help with your trad onsighting! Are you doing another winter? I might manage a week long pass this winter for some snow related fun, how comfy is your couch?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on September 06, 2012, 12:45:21 pm
Winter, possibly summer - depends on finances/jobs/what we want to do...

We're heading out soon after the 24th of Nov (my leaving date from work). Still need to sort accom etc., but you're more than welcome to come visit!

Je ne peux pas rester!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2012, 01:04:07 pm
Will bear it in mind. I'll most likely end up in Les Gets / PdS but could always head down for a couple of days (and / or you head up?)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 06, 2012, 04:15:35 pm
I am - November 24th, Chamonix.  :punk:

Part of the reason why I'm jumping on routes midweek that I've been saving for the onsight for a while...time is running out!

This certainly doesn't belong in the NNFN thread........

F^@%!ng Lucky Ba$(@^&  >:( ......grumble, grumble,grumble.... I'm so jealous. Have fun!  

NNFN - Huge windstorm Tuesday night (top speeds measured at 130+mph) and power out for 36hrs and counting....

NNFN - First snowfall on the mountains already, way too early.

NNFN - First fully free weekend all summer and it's forecast to rain the whole time. (Goddamn F^@%!ng rainforest)

NNFN - I ran out of coffee this morning.  :furious:

OK - Done ranting and complaining.  Time to look on the brightside, as soon as I find it  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: joe dobson on September 19, 2012, 11:21:48 pm
Well after fucking up the flash of Weedkiller Traverse at the Tor and rolling my ankle on sunday, A&E have deemed it to be a full sprained ankle :( So no climbing for the immediate future! Thanks to all that offered me help as I hobbled round the place!

Good news though, my ankle is now a nice shade of blue and I've developed a new kick ass fingerboard regime for train over the next few weeks :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: TobyD on September 20, 2012, 09:01:23 am
Putting the bins out the other night, jumped a low wall to avoid a locked gate, rolled ankle, #5th right metatarsal.
Can't work for 6 weeks, no climbing, running, biking.....
perhaps this is the opportunity to achieve life imperatives such as being able to lock off on one arm, getting really good on shit pockets, and reading ulysses.  :coffee:


I've developed a new kick ass fingerboard regime for train over the next few weeks :)
PM me with that shit  ;)

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on September 20, 2012, 09:08:16 am
Crikey.... really sorry to hear that.. (and I thought the continued Groove seepage was harsh....).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on September 20, 2012, 10:21:56 am
Putting the bins out the other night, jumped a low wall to avoid a locked gate, rolled ankle, #5th right metatarsal.
Can't work for 6 weeks, no climbing, running, biking.....
perhaps this is the opportunity to achieve life imperatives such as being able to lock off on one arm, getting really good on shit pockets, and reading ulysses.  :coffee:

Oh dear!  Still, a good opportunity to loose the "weakest person to have climbed 8b" title.  Seriously, every time I've done something to a leg (PCL, medial head of gastrocs. and good old sprained ankle in the last 3 years) I've come back stronger.

It is almost worth starting a new thread for the cnuttery of hire car companies but Europcnuts want to charge us €217 for an f'ing puncture.  This includes €50 damage administration fee.  They just make this up don't they?  Anyone ever anywhere managed to fight this kind of thing successfully? 

I also managed to loose my LX3 on the same holiday, which will cost another £300 or so to replace.  A very expensive trip with very little achieved.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dr T on September 25, 2012, 08:34:40 pm
slipped off the lip of the barrel at the wall
both feet out high
hit mat
legs slammed together
to quote Po Panda - "oh me tenders"
 :blink: :o :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 26, 2012, 09:46:59 am
Or to quote buster gonad - oooh me plums. I managed to pop up so badly once once when surfing that the board shot sideways out the water and whacked me in the jewels. Even N Sea cold wasn't enough for the pain.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: leeroy on October 06, 2012, 05:51:08 pm
Not as bad as some on here, but still ruined a good day.

After putting it off for a while I decided to go and look at Loose Control in the Kinder Downfall today. Hiked up there with a pad and a few ropes, only to find it absolutely soaking and glowing radioactive green. Naive to think it was going to be dry maybe, but still very annoying, cleaned the slime off a bit, ill be back. if anyone fancies a go at this this winter (optimistic) then pm me.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on October 15, 2012, 10:11:41 am
A. few days off work to climb and I go and roll my ankle at Earl on the first of them. Oh well, at least I got Handy Andy's done first.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 15, 2012, 02:34:55 pm
I've had loads of rolled ankles over the years, even had one x-rayed once it was so bad. Have come to the conclusion they you can pretty much walk them off. Get weight on it as soon as you can, and then go for a couple of miles' hobble, repeat the following day, hey presto, usable ankle. I am not a doctor.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 15, 2012, 03:18:01 pm
Yeah just be careful that it isn't actually broken (especially after the walk in clinic tell you it's not) and start trying to weight it when it actually requires major reconstructive surgery. Apparently that's quite painful........... eh lagers.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 15, 2012, 03:59:44 pm
Deffo get it Xrayed, or else you might end up walking around with a horrible swollen ankle for a few months due to a minor dislocation because you were too cheap to go to a hospital in the US. Now who would be so dumb as to do that?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 15, 2012, 04:05:09 pm
Almost forgot I needed to post on here myself.

Was looking forward to an early dinner in town with my mum yesterday evening followed by the Richard Herring gig at City Hall. Instead I got some horrible throat infection / headache / shivers type thing Satuday afternoon and spent all of Sunday felling like death, taking anti-flu pills and sipping lucozade. Not happy.

 :furious:

(hey dave, tell me the gig was shit to cheer me up even though I know it wont have been)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on October 15, 2012, 05:01:38 pm
(hey dave, tell me the gig was shit to cheer me up even though I know it wont have been)
Don't worry, it was was just two hours of total cock (http://www.richardherring.com/).  ;D

ps: Sorry to hear you missed it, get well soon.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Monolith on October 15, 2012, 05:23:22 pm
Bad news Andi, hope you're healing pronto. Did you seek medical advice?

Still in tonnes of lower back pain myself after taking the washing out the machine four weeks ago. NNFN!!!!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 15, 2012, 05:45:01 pm
To try and give some good injury news, my jiggered hamstring seems 90% OK now...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on October 15, 2012, 10:17:13 pm
Cheers, tentatively climbed on it today and it seems fine. Looks all nice and purple.though! iI sought medical advice from Dr. I. Buprofen and a man named Timothy Taylor and it seems fine. If the swelling persists I'll go for some further advice.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BB on October 16, 2012, 02:50:14 am
NNFN. Fell off the wall, rolled ankle. Can't climb, or run, or cycle or anything. Not happy.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 16, 2012, 07:26:16 am
Seems to be doing the rounds!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on October 22, 2012, 09:47:32 am
Saddle bag fell off on the cycle to work this morning, retracing my tracks I couldn't find it.

Bye bye padlock, climbing shoes, chalk bag, shorts, belt, pump and some other crap that was in there.  :no:

An expensive and shit start to the week.  >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on October 22, 2012, 10:00:09 am
That sucks arse, unlucky. Is it worth checking the local Police station to see if it has been handed in? Long shot I know, but stranger things and all that.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on October 22, 2012, 10:09:58 am
Already called them, line was busy, waiting to be called back to leave full details.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on October 22, 2012, 10:14:28 am
 :goodidea:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 22, 2012, 10:22:54 am
get a sniffer dog after your climbing shoes?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on October 22, 2012, 10:24:21 am
If they're anything like mine, make sure it's a sniffer dog due to retire soon. It'll be its last job.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on October 22, 2012, 10:32:39 am
 :lol: they were fairly smelly, just had them resoled too, so thats £40 wasted.

Still at least I can justify a new pair now, silver lining to everything perhaps (apart from the bank balance).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SamT on October 22, 2012, 09:59:01 pm
House insurance?, items temporarily removed from house?

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 23, 2012, 07:28:00 am
Doesn't sound like it would even go over the excess and increased premiums.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on October 23, 2012, 07:45:01 am
As it happens I'm a fucking idiot as the bag was at home inside my house (cycled home and only looked at the bench in the garden where I normally put the bags whilst getting my bike out the shed).  :slap:

Just need to get my laptop working now (fell off a table a week ago busting the power supply, replacement doesn't seem to charge it).  Could be a costly repair by the manufacturers.  >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 23, 2012, 07:55:28 am
Muppet. Must admit I've done similar; did a circuit in the local woods only to notice saddle bag not under seat towards the end; retraced steps even doing the fun single track descents backwards (not fun) gave up due to darkness to head back to car, only to find it on bonnet with mobile phone, car keys etc all inside it. d'oh.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on October 23, 2012, 08:09:11 am
Yeah I feel pretty stupid, although It has fallen off before which is why I thought it had this time.  Probably time for some new bags.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on October 23, 2012, 11:13:22 am
"Yeah I feel pretty stupid, although It has fallen off before which is why I thought it had this time.  Probably time for a new brain."
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Seb on November 02, 2012, 11:11:03 pm
Finger popped while climbing at Rubicon today, so annoyed. Just hoping its not as bad as it felt/feels.  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 03, 2012, 11:29:07 am
Commiserations. Good luck with that.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BB on November 05, 2012, 01:49:16 am
NNFN! Just about recovered from rolling my ankle and have had to have a large mole removed from my back for testing. Under strict instructions to do absolutely nothing for 3 weeks or risk popping the stitches. Day 6 and going stir crazy.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: TobyD on November 05, 2012, 09:51:31 am
Day 6 and going stir crazy.

Tell me about it. I fractured a bone in my foot 48 days ago.  :coffee: and :popcorn: are your friends.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 05, 2012, 05:41:43 pm
NNFN!!

So, by 10am yesterday I'm finally getting to master little X ups off a big kicker in wharncliffe

By 10am today I'm being examined in A&E, after having a huge slip off my road bike... On ice due to an untreated road. Slid over 10 metres.



The road was at work... Yep. A hospital.

I've got a fuckinnmassive thigh / hip haematoma, now no way I can race next Sunday... Could be worse, one other colleague creaked wrist, another cracked rib.

I've got to cover one of thems work tomorow!!!

Can't drive, so it's lifts to work foe a few days...

NOT HAPPY
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 06, 2012, 02:51:43 pm
Eye of the needle diet again. Whole family. Fucking nurseries are germ pools.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 06, 2012, 02:58:47 pm
I've had 1 solid BM (and I don't mean Beastmaker) since coming back from Azerbaijan 9 days ago. Doctor's appointment tomorrow. Gotta love the Baku Belly...

 :shit: :worms:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 06, 2012, 03:54:02 pm
I've had 1 solid BM (and I don't mean Beastmaker) since coming back from Azerbaijan 9 days ago. Doctor's appointment tomorrow. Gotta love the Baku Belly...

 :shit: :worms:

But think of the weight loss... (silver linings and all that..)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 06, 2012, 04:22:31 pm
I seem to be holding steady!

Maybe I should stop eating?  :shrug:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 06, 2012, 08:32:40 pm
Assume you are avoiding fruit? (I would say fruit and dairy, but that's kind of redundant).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 06, 2012, 10:18:24 pm
No, should I be?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 06, 2012, 10:20:43 pm
1/2 to whole bottle of whiskey in a session used to be our cure for Bucharesti Belly..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2012, 09:46:51 am
No, should I be?

Apparently so. Not sure if it's just heresay though, maybe one of our medical professionals can confirm or deny.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 07, 2012, 09:51:01 am
foreign travel persistent diarrhoea can be from a variety of causes. no specific dietary omissions needed at this stage.

i agree, see the GP.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 07, 2012, 10:37:04 am
Just cancelled today's GP appointment - seem to be on the mend....

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on November 07, 2012, 06:11:38 pm
1/2 to whole bottle of whiskey in a session used to be our cure for Bucharesti Belly..

This seems like a bit of YYFY :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 07, 2012, 07:12:47 pm
1/2 to whole bottle of whiskey in a session used to be our cure for Bucharesti Belly..

This seems like a bit of YYFY :)

Can be.. we video'd one of our team taking this approach on an overnight sleeper train once.. it did work though....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: r-man on November 08, 2012, 11:25:50 pm
Ouch. More proof that heel-hooks are evil.

http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/moon-blog/bouldering/breaking-bad/ (http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/moon-blog/bouldering/breaking-bad/)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 09, 2012, 08:19:35 am
Oooff.  :ohmy:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 09, 2012, 08:24:10 am
Oucha. Sucks to be him.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ianto9 on November 09, 2012, 08:29:30 am
 :boohoo: Trapped my hand in work last night,xray shows nothing broke but the funny colour and odd size makes me think i'll be out of action for a while  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Durbs on November 12, 2012, 12:36:57 pm
3rd session on Joe's Arete. Still can't do the bastard, and infact didn't get as close as I did on my first session.

1st go on 3 pocket slab - felt good, didn't get it. However, actually psyched to fail and come back knowing what to do. (Added bonus of seeing Shauna and Ned warming up on it too.)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 26, 2012, 01:01:32 pm
NNFN, they've blocked vimeo at work so now I can't get my lunch-time psyche on. May have to go on strike...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on November 26, 2012, 01:27:39 pm
Have they blocked the use of Proxies too?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 26, 2012, 01:34:37 pm
Apparently it's not work that's blocked it, it's the office buildings themselves. What's a proxy?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 26, 2012, 01:38:16 pm
it's a two part glue.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 26, 2012, 01:40:52 pm
Ah, I thought it was a slang term for a weak person or a small amount of something.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: metal arms on November 26, 2012, 01:42:37 pm
Bryan Ferry's band, innit.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on November 26, 2012, 01:50:33 pm
Apparently it's not work that's blocked it, it's the office buildings themselves. What's a proxy?

Top hit on  :google: for "what is a proxy" is Wikipedia : Proxy Server (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proxy_server)  (second hit in case Wikipedia is blocked at your work too WhatIsMyIPAddress.com - What is a proxy (http://www.whatismyip.com/hide-my-ip/what-is-a-proxy/)).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on November 26, 2012, 05:15:25 pm
After busting my gut to get our new house decorated and sorted to move in this weekend, the rain has decided it wants to put a stop to my plans and has pissed in down the chimney breast and ruined all my hard work doing wall papering. Absoultely gutted, the Mrs is in pieces as we have been living with my parents for months whilst I have been working on the house. Just when it was all starting to come together, I'm now going backwards. Furious!  :wall: :slap: :no: :thumbsdown: :chair: :'( :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on November 26, 2012, 05:18:29 pm
I know where you are at.  Our chimney breast was wet, coming down the chimney.  We had the chimney rebuilt, and redecorated.  But it's still wet, so looks like a replastering is in order at some point!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on November 26, 2012, 05:22:19 pm
Did anyone see the news footage of llanberis flooded? Looked bad... Could see Petes eats in the background I think...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on November 26, 2012, 05:27:57 pm
Did anyone see the news footage of llanberis flooded? Looked bad... Could see Petes eats in the background I think...

BBC News item (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-20461217)

Llanberis flood (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BY__cig4WO4#ws)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on November 26, 2012, 05:35:33 pm
Normally I'm not against wet breasts, but in this case I'm whole heartedly against them! Its literally a never ending shower of shite.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on November 26, 2012, 05:51:38 pm
Damn.... Hope everybody was insured
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on December 03, 2012, 09:13:06 am
NNFN non-displaced fracture to left index finger whilst belyaing (& holding a fall) yesterday. >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 03, 2012, 09:41:23 am
NNFN non-displaced fracture to left index finger whilst belyaing (& holding a fall) yesterday. >:(

Thats rubbish :( Though at least its not displaced and was broken saving someone from falling flake horror...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on December 03, 2012, 10:07:13 am
Yeah, annoying, but not the end of the world and could have had a far more severe outcome.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on December 03, 2012, 10:08:29 am
Hope its a quick recovery Slackers - at least it was in a noble cause
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on December 03, 2012, 10:17:54 am
Me too, friend bashed his knee quite hard and is limping today, but nothing more serious happened (apart from ~1m being lost off the end of mates ropes who were doing a route next to us).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 03, 2012, 10:35:35 am
Just had a bloke out to look at our malfunctioning dishwasher. I thought it might just be the seal that needed replacing but he fixed that and it still didn't work. Basically it's fucked and will cost nearly as much (or perhaps more depending on the fault) to fix it as it will be to buy a new one. As the repair man said, these things aren't designed to be fixed nowadays, they make the parts so restrictively expensive. It's under 2 1/2 years old.

Moral of the story, don't buy Hotpoint / Indesit appliances (the guy recommended Zanussi as more expensive Bosch etc are just as likely to break down).

My Mum's dishwasher is 15 years old and has never gone wrong. It's just a massive con / nothing lasts these days etc etc etc.......... :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tregiffian on December 03, 2012, 11:11:56 am
Change and decay in all around I see ........

Look at that white horse......
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on December 03, 2012, 11:27:21 am
NNFN non-displaced fracture to left index finger whilst belyaing (& holding a fall) yesterday. >:(

Sorry to hear that but, given the size of the rock and distance it fell, be thankful you still have all 5 digits and all 4 limbs still attached.

Could have been worse...

Bergsturz Lischana 31 Juli 2011 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y33STLSFjkE#ws)

12/10/2007 Großer Bergsturz am Einser/La grande frana di Cima Uno (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4UB-NXaZ78#)

North Cliffs Failure - Amazing Cliff Collapse caught on Camera! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVjr4mii3cE#)

Franz Josef Glacier, New Zealand 13/10/11 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vq8Hwsjf2XM#)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on December 03, 2012, 12:52:41 pm

Sorry to hear that but, given the size of the rock and distance it fell, be thankful you still have all 5 digits and all 4 limbs still attached.

Could have been worse...


Cheers, looks like the rest of the route might fall down this winter now.  :oops: :sorry:

Strangely it was my fingers caught up in the rope that did it, can't work out how, but rock landed a good few metres away and not a huge amount of flying debris.

Only reinforces my caution around loose rock.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 03, 2012, 01:29:56 pm


North Cliffs Failure - Amazing Cliff Collapse caught on Camera! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVjr4mii3cE#)



I wouldn't be as calm as those tourists, standing on the edge of a similar cliff just metres away..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: csl on December 05, 2012, 05:56:30 pm
Haven't touched rock (apart from the stuff i build with at work) for over 2 months! Last night I was driving to Leeds finally for a week at least of climbing when my (borrowed) car broke down. Queue 6 hours in a wet field in Lincolnshite waiting for rescue. Fuck this!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 08, 2012, 07:38:40 pm
Wounder. Is that Steve's old car? I wonder if he does a money back guarantee?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tesla on December 11, 2012, 04:23:48 pm
Here's a good NNFN, or possibly a YYFY depending on your perspective:

http://www.adventure-journal.com/2012/12/the-taliban-blew-up-my-climbing-wall/ (http://www.adventure-journal.com/2012/12/the-taliban-blew-up-my-climbing-wall/)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 13, 2012, 12:19:55 pm
Great snow conditions in the hills the last few days, I have annual leave I need to use up (or lose) and I can't get out due to certain people dragging their heels when it comes to getting thing done. Deadlines clearly only apply in certain places :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 13, 2012, 08:52:11 pm
Manflu/norovirus hell. Spent last night chucking up and today in bed and on the couch.
Misery. I hate feeling unwell.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SpanishJuan on December 13, 2012, 09:52:34 pm
get well soon Will. Hopefully you'll be well enough to visit pex if you go home for christmas
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on December 14, 2012, 10:45:07 am
I thought I'd do one on behalf of us all.

NNFN: all week it has been cold and minty and now it is pissing it down and shit with the same tomorrow. Gah.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sherlock on December 14, 2012, 11:03:34 am
C.ar won't start,shabby forecast for tomorrow.
Here's to the freakin weekend :whistle:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 16, 2012, 07:03:05 pm
Someone dried my Moon Asp pants in the tumble dryer after a wash - to about 2000*C.   :slap: There are cooler industrial kilns than our dryer it would appear, judging by the reduced dimensions of my winter bouldering pants.

Don't suppose anyone has a pair of medium Asps they'd like to sell, as these are no longer made?   :please:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: joe dobson on December 18, 2012, 02:49:25 pm
Just fully ruptured my pulley in my left hand little finger up at thorn crag on fix my sink :( Pissed to say the least! was getting close to the slap as well! >:( Dammit all.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on December 18, 2012, 02:51:56 pm
Unlucky Joe.  It's a tweaky little problem for fingers.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: joe dobson on December 18, 2012, 03:13:30 pm
aye just a bit, odd that it happened in the left hand little finger! Surely an injury in the right hand would be more likely!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 21, 2012, 06:05:26 pm
Bah Fucking Humbug.

Just having one of the shittiest days. Email first thing saying a good friend's dad passed away overnight, without ever meeting his new granddaughter (she lives overseas), looks like things might not be going so smoothly with house purchase, getting messed around at work, will probably be here until 10 thanks to other people doing things last minute which meens I have to sort it all into a presentable format, weather is fucking awful and set to remain so until after Xmas, had to leave Xmas lunch early yesterday, sober due to work demands, fucking knackered due to being kept awake last night by howling winds. And worst of all the net result of all this is I have that fucking Coldplay Christmns Lights song going round in my where it goes "It doesn't feel like Christmas at all" because of all of the above.

AAAAAAAAAAARGH.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 21, 2012, 06:19:49 pm
:( chin up, it could be worse - you could be working as the NRA's press officer..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on December 21, 2012, 06:35:45 pm
A bit of tim will sort you out Chris
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=78XrI_2bPVA&hl=en-GB&gl=GB&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fgl%3DGB%26hl%3Den-GB%26v%3D78XrI_2bPVA (http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=78XrI_2bPVA&hl=en-GB&gl=GB&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fgl%3DGB%26hl%3Den-GB%26v%3D78XrI_2bPVA)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 21, 2012, 09:03:50 pm
I know there are people worse off, but that doesn't help my mind right now
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 21, 2012, 09:28:39 pm
:( chin up, it could be worse - you could be working as the NRA's press officer..

Sadly, I suspect the NRA have rarely been happier.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on December 21, 2012, 09:59:16 pm
Bah Fucking Humbug.

AAAAAAAAAAARGH.

You'll be going home to your two lovely kids and beautiful charming wife soon.  In the meantime, listen to that Pig Destroyer album I recommended earlier and think of your users colleagues.  It'll make you feel better.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 22, 2012, 08:29:14 pm
Yeah I know but you know. Left at 10 going to have to work from home over Xmas and go in on 3rd and probably 4th when I am supposed to be on annual leave
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DaveC on December 23, 2012, 01:31:34 am
Quiet relaxing Christmas fortnight off has gone a bit pear-shaped. The mrs had a fall out walking this morning and has knocked herself about quite a bit (cut & bruised knees, sprained wrist, broken finger, some bad grazing on her face). I'll be on nursing duty for a few days by the look of it. The part that really fucks me off is that two people walked right past and made no attempt to offer help, she had to get herself back up on the path and get home on her own. I'm afraid not untypical behaviour in Australia these days -  :oops: did I say that out loud?.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 23, 2012, 08:40:41 am
That does sound pretty shitty. Hope she heals quickly
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on December 23, 2012, 09:15:08 am
Hope she gets better soon DaveC. I think it's too dangerous walking in Aus, everytime someone goes into to bush they seem to get stranded or injured. (Disclaimer my entire experience of australian wilderness comes from Neighbours and home and away)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 04, 2013, 09:58:58 am
Can I pitch this as a generally applicable NNFN.

Log Weather.

I've had all of this week off, and not been able to get out.. going off to the lakes this afternoon - looks like wall to wall drizzle forecast (and so the webcams show) so I'm off to the wall again this lunchtime and probably wont get while we're up there. Toss. The waves of weather fronts pushing rain across the UK seem to have been replaced by stagnant dampness. Come on 'im upstairs, sort it out!

Grrrr...

 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: The Weather on January 04, 2013, 11:10:06 am
Dear tomtom
Thank you for contacting The Weather helpdesk however due to unprecendented levels of demand we are unable to deal with your request right now.
Rest assured we are working hard to retify the situation and hope to have decent conditions restored as soon as possible.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on January 04, 2013, 06:20:04 pm
You better pull your finger out for Sunday Mr Weather....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on January 04, 2013, 07:08:01 pm
All may not be lost in the Lakes. I've been out working today a mere stones throw from Carrock and there was no rain in sight! Still a tad damp under foot but dry (ish). I can keep you posted as the weekend progresses.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 04, 2013, 07:15:33 pm
Cheers Golt, I had a decent ish session on a 70% wet Langdale boulders.. Rest tomorrow out Sunday.. Drizzle was the enemy today, no real wind to dry things fast enough.. Bits of kentmere were prob OK looking up valley driving past..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 07, 2013, 08:46:38 pm
Girlfriend decided to try climbing with some other 'climbing girlfriends'. Fell of at matrix and dislocated and broke her ankle.... She now thoroughly hates climbing...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 08, 2013, 10:31:57 am
Damn! That's harsh. I had a similar but far less severe experience about a year and a half ago.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mitchez on January 10, 2013, 03:58:08 pm
Hurt my foot playing football just before Christmas, was hoping it would be better by now so decided to get a scan.  Yup, broken my index toe.  Putting on normal shoes hurts like buggery so I can't even think about rock shoes.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on January 11, 2013, 04:49:36 pm
Lost the skin on my knuckles working blockbuster way back in 2005. Let it heal went back, did exactly the same thing and couple of weeks later. Got cross did it next go before they became too swollen. Vowed to never do the problem again
Went to Caley today, most stuff was wet, except for Blockbuster. Pulled on, casually locked off the crimp, smiled to myself how about how much stronger I am now...then...not a-fucking-gain! That'll learn me. Cocky, foolish man.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 11, 2013, 05:10:00 pm
Oooowww..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 12, 2013, 07:32:27 am
Do you know when you did scaphoid? At the same time. It's not one to take lightly as part of the bone can die if it isn't set straight away or doesn't mend properly.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 13, 2013, 08:01:21 pm
If it hurts in the anatomical snuff box ( google it)...  Then it's still bust...

Sorry...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 13, 2013, 08:44:26 pm
MRI

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 13, 2013, 08:50:26 pm
MRI v useful.. But it's all in the symptoms... Sound like u are gettin better! If not.. MRI for sure...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 14, 2013, 09:38:19 am
MRI involves a fair bit of whirring and clanking and white noise too  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 14, 2013, 10:22:58 am
Sounds like the type of music you listen to.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DaveC on January 14, 2013, 11:21:28 am
Sounds like the type of music you listen to.

(http://www.citylife.co.uk/img/9306/8006_boom_boom_basil_brush.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 14, 2013, 12:14:45 pm
Hehe, especially if you through in the BOOM BOOM too, damn right  :agree:.

They gave me protective headphones and offered to pipe the radio through, balls to that tho.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatkid2000 on January 14, 2013, 01:28:31 pm
MRI v useful.. But it's all in the symptoms... Sound like u are gettin better! If not.. MRI for sure...

I checked with my wife - radiologist with a sub-specialty interest in skeletal radiology - MRI used to be better. However the newer super multi-slice scanners are making CT the preferred mode now. It may depend on what your local hospital has available for a scan.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 14, 2013, 09:07:13 pm
Must do some CPD

Cheers fatkid
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 15, 2013, 08:26:47 am
According to some comments from locals on Facebook, Komilator has been chipped.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on January 15, 2013, 08:39:08 am
 :thumbsdown: was keen to get that done next trip!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on January 15, 2013, 11:09:11 am
We saw some pics but from them it looked like it was a little sliver at the back, prob still worth checking out ritchie
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 15, 2013, 09:03:15 pm
Four weeks away from my first climbing trip in over 2 years and something hurts after the wall today. :furious:

More specifically, I have a little sore patch just down from crease in ring finger PIP joint and off to the side, so not quite classic A2 pulley area but damn near it.  It hurts to touch, but did another problem before stopping- no pain while climbing (Broughton) :-\ :-\

Anyone experienced anything similar? And how long before it mended if so? Thanks!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 18, 2013, 08:07:57 am
(not exactly end of the world news this but)

NNFN - I lost one of my fluffy boot inners from these after my last Cliff trip :( :( :(

I test drove these £15 decathlog beauties at the Cliff yesterday. 10/10. My feet were toasty - whilst Nai and 3T had to go for periodic runs to warm their feet up - I was able to just slob in toasty toed luxury (its all relative on a windy day at the cliff..)

(http://pbs.twimg.com/media/A9iq1jiCEAAtWHB.jpg:large)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Drew on January 30, 2013, 08:10:15 pm
Not sure if this is a NNFN or even a YYFY, but I got on Brass Monkeys today, as my mate James had got close recently and thought he could finish it off pretty quickly. So we got warmed up, and headed over. Having been on it before I felt like I should have a few more goes, even though it hurts my sore shoulder, but I thought fuck it, if it hurts, I stop. At first I couldn't even make the slap out with the right hand to the lip. I couldn't get my feet in the right place, and it all felt weird and wrong. I knew my beta for the end was weird, but the start wasn't meant to be this hard.

James had a few more goes, and kept getting to the campus move but either couldn't commit, or couldn't hit the hold. I got back on, and worked out where to put my feet (key, don't try and use the beta of the guy who's 4 inches taller, and with 6 inches more span), and got out to the lip. Awesome. Slapped around a bit, got the good holds, and tried the cut loose. Quickly slumped back onto the pads, but at least I'd worked out the start. James was now getting closer to hitting the hold, so we wouldn't be here for long, especially if the ominous black cloud came in any quicker.

I pulled on again, and got through to the cut loose. Held it (might've screamed a little), but I was doing well. Got my left heel up next to my left hand, and with a bit of encouragement, trusted it and slapped the jug. Boom! It was done. Well, nearly. Got matched, and onto the jugs on the arete, but waited for a bit while James moved the pads. Starting to feel tired I tried to get my feet up, and heel onto the jug, but I'd just knackered myself out so I dropped off. It'll be alright.. it's not raining yet... oh actually, yes it is. James quickly jumped on and fired the whole thing. He looked well sketchy topping out as the rock started getting damp. Bollocks. Let's sit it out, and see if the rain pauses. 30 seconds later it's hammering it down, starting to hail, and we've just been deafened by the loudest thunder I've ever heard. The flash of lightning preceded it by about half a second, so I reckon it probably hit The Pebble! Cue comedy run down the hill ("do I go under the trees?", "no, they might get hit and branches land on you", "fuck it this hail's pissing me off, I'm going under the trees!")

Bollocks. I didn't want that to be on my (ever expanding) ticklist, but now it means I really do have to go back and finish it off properly.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 30, 2013, 08:47:44 pm
You should be able to smooth it out next time though now you've got the beta!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on January 30, 2013, 11:12:03 pm
Sounds like a YYFY compared to my day in an office.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 31, 2013, 08:57:43 am
Sounds like a YYFY compared to my day in an office.

+1
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2013, 10:12:29 am
+2. Not been climbing for three weeks. Oh woe.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Stubbs on January 31, 2013, 10:19:05 am
"I went climbing on a weekday in the middle of a load of shitty weather and got close on a new problem at a local crag"

Some people don't know they're born!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Spandau on February 05, 2013, 10:42:32 am
Anyone know the opening hours currently for Broughton?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 05, 2013, 10:48:12 am
Very much the wrong thread....
So try:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21159.msg393095.html#msg393095 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21159.msg393095.html#msg393095)

or
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8313.msg386101.html#msg386101 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8313.msg386101.html#msg386101)

Both of which were found using that odd little box on the top right of your screen called search.......
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Ru on February 05, 2013, 10:54:32 am
Four weeks away from my first climbing trip in over 2 years and something hurts after the wall today. :furious:

More specifically, I have a little sore patch just down from crease in ring finger PIP joint and off to the side, so not quite classic A2 pulley area but damn near it.  It hurts to touch, but did another problem before stopping- no pain while climbing (Broughton) :-\ :-\

Anyone experienced anything similar? And how long before it mended if so? Thanks!

Same here - a tweak a few weeks out from a trip. It's happened before though. Give it a day or two of icing if it needs it, then crack on with the cold water baths to increase blood flow. Massage it. Don't climb on it for 4-5 days, then start on big jugs again if you get no pain. Do short sessions so you have more control over the injury (generally the pain subsides as you warm up, making it hard to know if you're overdoing it in longer sessions). Take at least a day or two off between sessions to let any soreness subside. Ramp back up the intensity slowly, but do ramp it up a bit. Don't try anything really hard before the trip. You can rehab a minor tweak in about 3-4  weeks this way, but stay cautious on it for a couple of months.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Stewart on February 08, 2013, 09:19:47 am
Crank. Pop. Fuck...

font in 5 &1/2 weeks, it's going to be close
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on February 08, 2013, 01:41:05 pm
Crank. Pop. Fuck...

An adult breakfast cereal?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 08, 2013, 02:42:32 pm
Four weeks away from my first climbing trip in over 2 years and something hurts after the wall today. :furious:

More specifically, I have a little sore patch just down from crease in ring finger PIP joint and off to the side, so not quite classic A2 pulley area but damn near it.  It hurts to touch, but did another problem before stopping- no pain while climbing (Broughton) :-\ :-\

Anyone experienced anything similar? And how long before it mended if so? Thanks!

Same here - a tweak a few weeks out from a trip. It's happened before though....

Agree with what Ru has said although also sounds like what you may have done is collateral ligament damage? No pain when climbing but pain down the side of the joint after and v painful to touch.

I did this a few weeks before a Font trip. After advice on here I had about ten days off then cross taped the joint and trained as above. Worked fine and I had my best trip ever.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 08, 2013, 02:45:59 pm
And I just realised how old your original post was so this advice is next to useless. Damn my January work schedule!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Stewart on February 08, 2013, 03:38:18 pm
Crank. Pop. Fuck...

An adult breakfast cereal?

From the makers of
(http://bbsimg.ngfiles.com/1/20782000/ngbbs4b7b748b6d194.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: honroid on February 08, 2013, 08:32:59 pm
Four weeks away from my first climbing trip in over 2 years and something hurts after the wall today. :furious:

More specifically, I have a little sore patch just down from crease in ring finger PIP joint and off to the side, so not quite classic A2 pulley area but damn near it.  It hurts to touch, but did another problem before stopping- no pain while climbing (Broughton) :-\ :-\

Anyone experienced anything similar? And how long before it mended if so? Thanks!

I had exactly the same symptoms on my ring finger two weeks ago after a recent concerted effort to focus fingerboard sessions on the back two... again with no pain while climbing but pain to the touch. I eased up on the two-finger pocket sessions, massaged and iced and (stupidly?) carried on the fingerboarding switching to open handed / slopers during the sessions.

The pain has now gone and I'm back on the back two and feeling good on it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on February 11, 2013, 01:36:34 pm
Can't find my fucking passport and am due to fly to Malaga on weds.  :wall:

One place left to look when I get home but I'm not hopeful.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 11, 2013, 01:38:26 pm
You've still got time to get one in person... (a major pain in the arse I know.. but thinking positive etc..)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on February 11, 2013, 01:57:08 pm
You've still got time to get one in person... (a major pain in the arse I know.. but thinking positive etc..)

 :goodidea:

Quick google last night suggested that wasnt an option but I see now it can be done.

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on February 11, 2013, 02:00:45 pm
Can't find my fucking passport and am due to fly to Malaga on weds.  :wall:

One place left to look when I get home but I'm not hopeful.

I spent an hour looking for a receipt this morning without success.  Wife came home, I mentioned it to her and a minute later it was handed over, recovered from the place she put it that I knew nothing about.  Might be worth asking someone more organised than yourself ;) 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on February 11, 2013, 02:03:48 pm
Can't find my fucking passport and am due to fly to Malaga on weds.  :wall:

One place left to look when I get home but I'm not hopeful.

I spent an hour looking for a receipt this morning without success.  Wife came home, I mentioned it to her and a minute later it was handed over, recovered from the place she put it that I knew nothing about.  Might be worth asking someone more organised than yourself ;) 

Good thought but she was up till 1pm with me ransacking the joint
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 11, 2013, 02:13:44 pm
I know I'm likely to get punched for asking, but when did you last have it?

I know this is probably a bit late and not particularly useful, but scan the crucial pages of your passport, license and any travel docs and email them to your hotmail address (or leave them in a dropbox), then you have instant access to copies any time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on February 11, 2013, 02:18:53 pm
I know I'm likely to get punched for asking, but when did you last have it?

I know this is probably a bit late and not particularly useful, but scan the crucial pages of your passport, license and any travel docs and email them to your hotmail address (or leave them in a dropbox), then you have instant access to copies any time.

I think I needed it for a late hotel and interview room booking in Swansea just before xmas. Ive rung the hotel they havent got it. Im going to look in the bag I took it with me and if its not there ring for an appointment at the Liverpool passport office.

I have a copy of my passport but that can't be valid for flying with can it ?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 11, 2013, 02:24:37 pm
No. They wont let you out of the country without it now.. you used to be able to blag it with a driving licence getting out of the UK but not now..

I've some useful passport advice here from dealing with Students who lose their passports while abroad (from our field trips) about getting back without a passport. In the Spanish airport (where its happened to us at ie student says errr.. left my passport at the Hotel) importantly say you've lost your passport at the airport. This means its dealt with in the airport, by the airport police otherwise they will bat you on to external police and you'll have to find the counsul etc.. (and probably miss your flight). This seems to be a really important distinction about how its dealt with and makes a big difference (according to the holiday rep(s) we've dealt with about this...). We always keep a photocopy of the passport photo page of the students who go, but while that helps, they really want to see some photo ID (driving licence) to let you out of the country (spain again). I tihnk this is also really important for the security of matching the passenger to the ID etc.. for the flight. Once landed in the UK - assuming you have photo ID, and dont look dodgy - it seems to take about 30-40 min of phone calls, form filling etc.. and then they let you back in..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on February 11, 2013, 02:29:45 pm
I've had similar experience Shark - had to go away to Germany with previous job and only realised with 2 days to go that my passport had expired!

Went to the Durham office in the end (as I was living in York at the time). Apart from having to wait about for ages (not that Durham's an unpleasant place to kill time...) and it being a bit more pricey, very slick process. Think I arrived at about 9am and was on the 5pm train home.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on February 11, 2013, 02:35:28 pm
No. They wont let you out of the country without it now.. you used to be able to blag it with a driving licence getting out of the UK but not now..

Wife (girlfriend at the time) travelled to Zakynthos on an expired passport (around eight months lapsed) as she'd stupidly assumed that it was valid as her mother kept hold of it back then (around 14-15 years ago and about the first time she was travelling anywhere without her parents).

It wasn't even opened and inspected by border patrol when leaving the country or entering Greece.  All before security went nuts though, and it didn't stop it ruining the holiday to some extent due to her worrying that she wouldn't be allowed to leave the island/back into the UK.

Good luck in the final hunt/trip to Liverpool shark.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 11, 2013, 02:38:21 pm
Pretty sure I got mine done in a day at L'pool. Hardest part was getting parked near passport office? Went to The Breck in the meantime....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rosmat on February 11, 2013, 02:40:01 pm
You've still got time to get one in person... (a major pain in the arse I know.. but thinking positive etc..)

 :goodidea:

Quick google last night suggested that wasnt an option but I see now it can be done.

 :2thumbsup:

Shark, be aware that you can't just turn up at the passport office "drop in style" anymore. You need to book an appointment with them first. You should be able to get one at short notice at this time of year.

Passport Adviceline for appts: Tel 0300 222 0000

I had to do this in December - similiar scenario to yours.

Good luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 11, 2013, 02:42:17 pm
Pretty sure I got mine done in a day at L'pool. Hardest part was getting parked near passport office? Went to The Breck in the meantime....

Passport office 5 mins from the Hangar too. Shark, am about in Liverpool tomorrow if logistical support needed.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 11, 2013, 03:05:04 pm
Pretty sure I got mine done in a day at L'pool. Hardest part was getting parked near passport office? Went to The Breck in the meantime....

Passport office 5 mins from the Hangar too. Shark, am about in Liverpool tomorrow if logistical support needed.

Bingo! Training session with the added bonus of getting your passport done! (just forget about the drive...)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on February 11, 2013, 03:07:26 pm
park at the climbing hangar for free, then get the train from sandhills to Moorfields station in sub 5 mins. Walk rightwards out of the station on to Old Hall street and the passport office is about 2 mins up on your left.

Alternatively you can park outside Awesome walls and just walk back into town down Greater Howard Street and across the junction on to Old Hall street (past the BMW dealer).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 11, 2013, 03:09:49 pm
I have a copy of my passport but that can't be valid for flying with can it ?

No, but it makes the process of getting replacements a hell of a lot easier.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on February 11, 2013, 04:08:30 pm
I once lost my passport, or had it stolen, in Manchester airport somewhere between going through security with it, and arriving at the gate where there was a second passport check without it. Lucky for me there was a second passport check at the gate, otherwise I would have found myself landing in Germany with no Papiere. Also lucky that I was on my way back to work and not going on holiday.

With a crime report from the airport police and a plane ticket dated yesterday I had no problem getting "emergency" same day service at the Liverpool passport office the next day. Had a nice walk round the Tate while I was waiting.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on February 11, 2013, 04:50:50 pm
Cheers guys,

The earliest appointment I could get for Liverpool was 2.30pm which they said meant the best case scenario was picking up the passport the following morning at 10.30am.

Consequently I booked for Durham tomorrow at 8.30am  :o .  So if I go will need to set off at 4am and I've already got the forms and photos from the post office. A 234mile round trip and £128 for something that's probably lurking somewhere 30seconds from where I'm sitting. How did the world get to be this way? 

A client has also emailed to confirm a fairly lucrative assignment which I could/should be getting on with and biscuit has said its no hassle if I dip out as he's got plenty of people to climb with.

What to do?

 :devangel:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 11, 2013, 05:06:49 pm
Stay home and make cash so Biscuit can come and climb with me in Costa Blanca (this may not constitute impartial advice ;))
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 11, 2013, 05:09:17 pm
Go to Spain. The passport money is not all wasted as your new passport will last 10 years etc..
Work is Work. Climbing is Climbing ;)
and Sun... you might actually see some....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on February 11, 2013, 05:15:18 pm
A 234mile round trip and £128 for something that's probably lurking somewhere 30seconds from where I'm sitting. How did the world get to be this way? 
Have you seen it since you moved?
Did this trip to Swansea happen in this car or the old one?
Have you found the rest of the family's passports?

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 11, 2013, 05:26:46 pm
A 234mile round trip and £128 for something that's probably lurking somewhere 30seconds from where I'm sitting. How did the world get to be this way? 
Have you seen it since you moved?
Did this trip to Swansea happen in this car or the old one?
Have you found the rest of the family's passports?

Have you considered giving your children a £20 reward for finding it? (christ, I'm turning Tory... outsourcing etc..)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on February 11, 2013, 05:29:14 pm
A 234mile round trip and £128 for something that's probably lurking somewhere 30seconds from where I'm sitting. How did the world get to be this way? 
Have you seen it since you moved?Yes (90% sure)
Did this trip to Swansea happen in this car or the old one? New one
Have you found the rest of the family's passports? Yes

Good thoughts.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: abarro81 on February 11, 2013, 06:06:21 pm
You own 2 houses - screw the money, sack off the work and go climbing!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 11, 2013, 07:58:19 pm
 :oops:


Good luck with that mate
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on February 11, 2013, 08:18:59 pm
I've some useful passport advice here from dealing with Students who lose their passports while abroad (from our field trips) about getting back without a passport. In the Spanish airport (where its happened to us at ie student says errr.. left my passport at the Hotel) importantly say you've lost your passport at the airport. This means its dealt with in the airport, by the airport police otherwise they will bat you on to external police and you'll have to find the counsul etc.. (and probably miss your flight). This seems to be a really important distinction about how its dealt with and makes a big difference (according to the holiday rep(s) we've dealt with about this...). We always keep a photocopy of the passport photo page of the students who go, but while that helps, they really want to see some photo ID (driving licence) to let you out of the country (spain again). I tihnk this is also really important for the security of matching the passenger to the ID etc.. for the flight. Once landed in the UK - assuming you have photo ID, and dont look dodgy - it seems to take about 30-40 min of phone calls, form filling etc.. and then they let you back in..

Recent direct personal experience suggests none of this works.  No passport meant no flight. I had photo ID and reported the loss to the airport police first.  Spent two extra days in Tenerife waiting for the consulate to open.

Good luck shark - of course you should go.  If you take multiple flights a year for decades eventually something of this nature is bound to happen (ask Toby about his passport incident some time).  Just amortize the debt over all those other flights.  Or something.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 11, 2013, 08:35:33 pm
I've some useful passport advice here from dealing with Students who lose their passports while abroad (from our field trips) about getting back without a passport. In the Spanish airport (where its happened to us at ie student says errr.. left my passport at the Hotel) importantly say you've lost your passport at the airport. This means its dealt with in the airport, by the airport police otherwise they will bat you on to external police and you'll have to find the counsul etc.. (and probably miss your flight). This seems to be a really important distinction about how its dealt with and makes a big difference (according to the holiday rep(s) we've dealt with about this...). We always keep a photocopy of the passport photo page of the students who go, but while that helps, they really want to see some photo ID (driving licence) to let you out of the country (spain again). I tihnk this is also really important for the security of matching the passenger to the ID etc.. for the flight. Once landed in the UK - assuming you have photo ID, and dont look dodgy - it seems to take about 30-40 min of phone calls, form filling etc.. and then they let you back in..

Recent direct personal experience suggests none of this works.  No passport meant no flight. I had photo ID and reported the loss to the airport police first.  Spent two extra days in Tenerife waiting for the consulate to open.

Good luck shark - of course you should go.  If you take multiple flights a year for decades eventually something of this nature is bound to happen (ask Toby about his passport incident some time).  Just amortize the debt over all those other flights.  Or something.

This worked for us two years ago - in Tenerife to be exact... though we did have a photocopy of the students passport as well...

You can also have two passports at the same time... its not heavily advertised, but if you ask you can. Its especially useful if you travel to certain middle eastern countries as well as the US of A... I nearly had to do this in 2006 when my passport had to go away to get a Chinese visa and I had to go to France and Germany during this period.. in the end I got the Visa done in 24 hours and it was all OK...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on February 11, 2013, 09:52:44 pm
Good luck shark - of course you should go.  If you take multiple flights a year for decades eventually something of this nature is bound to happen (ask Toby about his passport incident some time).  Just amortize the debt over all those other flights.  Or something.


Decision made. Maybe my priorities are wrong but I'm not going. It was meant to be an inexpensive, simple trip and was turning into the opposite.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wood FT on February 11, 2013, 10:40:04 pm
Just smash the eastside trav instead
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on February 11, 2013, 10:49:28 pm
Just smash the eastside trav instead

Fucked off with that too

Think I will just go and crawl under a stone for a while and wallow in self-pity
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wood FT on February 11, 2013, 10:57:22 pm
Just smash the eastside trav instead

Fucked off with that too

Think I will just go and crawl under a stone for a while and wallow in self-pity

That's my stone!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 12, 2013, 08:47:43 am
 :'( in honour of shark.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 12, 2013, 10:31:19 am
You gotta know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em.

I recommend alcohol for self-pity.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 12, 2013, 10:35:07 am
Ach Shark.. Get on that flight! Holiday = important..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on February 12, 2013, 10:54:22 am
Maybe my priorities are wrong but I'm not going.

Maybe?
I was close to puntering for chosing work over climbing when it was optional and as you said first euro sport trip in 2 years
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on February 12, 2013, 06:37:23 pm
Last day in Bishop was nails on for the big goal of the trip.  Fell a couple of times from the top through lack of committment and belief, but still feeling strong.  Pull on to the decent start holds, and BANG!!  A2 gone.......

To add insult to injuty,  Depression and Napa Valley for a week doesn't do wonders for the waistline.....  added 2kilos in a week.....

So now onto 4-6 weeks of serious weightloss cardio.....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on February 12, 2013, 07:29:30 pm
Arsecakes! That is a bummer.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 12, 2013, 07:36:00 pm
Never good, but it did happen on the last day.. Otherwise you might have come back 5kg heavier!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: csl on February 25, 2013, 09:52:53 pm
Now have a pulley strain to go with my injured shoulder! AaARRRGH!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 26, 2013, 09:40:55 pm
How are you doing this? Where are you even climbing to do this?!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: csl on February 26, 2013, 10:04:31 pm
There are these things called climbing walls. Sort of like a crag, but made of plywood and plastic and generally at least 99% shitter than Almscliff.

Thats where i have been getting injured Will.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 26, 2013, 10:52:43 pm
To be fair, that is where most people get injured. They're more dangerous than crags.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 27, 2013, 09:13:30 am
As my shoulder, knee, both middle fingers and something in my left foot can attest after last night's session.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on March 03, 2013, 12:00:06 am
Stupid pulley. :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 03, 2013, 08:54:36 pm
There are these things called climbing walls. Sort of like a crag, but made of plywood and plastic and generally at least 99% shitter than Almscliff.

That bad?? Jeeps no wonder you get injured there....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: csl on March 03, 2013, 09:10:58 pm
It is pretty bad. But 1% of Almscliff's greatness is still ok for me.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on March 04, 2013, 03:03:03 pm
Just got an estimate for repairs to my canon HV20 which stopped working a while ago... £424.50 - Fuck me! That's more than I paid for it!  :wall: :ohmy: :no: :wavecry:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: CBA on March 05, 2013, 01:11:15 pm
After taking my foot off the gas to sort out a nerve issue in my back,and building up a solid base of 7B and 7B+ again,I hit up the 'Cliff yesterday to deal with long term nemesis Underhand Extension.Warmed up,sorted out the moves and set to. First burn;dropped on the last move. I thought,I'm in here...Next go,solid all the way.Then got RH middle two stuck in that motherless pocket going for the finishing jug...a twist,a pop and it was game over.Ring finger fucked.Full on NNFN!!!  >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wipey Why on March 07, 2013, 09:30:04 am
Got my first flapper on Sunday trying Mushin! (I've been climbing for about 10 years)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on March 07, 2013, 09:42:19 am
Jeez Caleb, you aren't having much luck in recent times!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chillax on March 07, 2013, 10:25:13 am
Just had a physio tell me it will probably take at least another 8 weeks until my ankle is sufficiently mended to do anything fun. Injury happened on the 5th of January.... Arsecakes

On the bright side, I'm back in the land of shamrocks and rain so was unlikely to be able to climb anyway! And my front lever has never been better. Every cloud etc..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: CBA on March 07, 2013, 04:10:50 pm
Jeez Caleb, you aren't having much luck in recent times!
You're not wrong! Luckily,it seems the injured digit is fixing up pretty quickly...bring on the rematch!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on March 17, 2013, 08:51:01 pm
Not climbing-related, other than being just up the road from Portland

My Dad built the house I grew up in.  It looked like this:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t4MWASlJ2SA/SWcSz8GqXOI/AAAAAAAAATw/dZVtSXa7lhs/s720/Chalky%2520Road%252C%2520Broadmayne.jpg)

Though the wonders of streetview I've just discovered some money-than-taste has demolished it and built this monstrosity in it's place:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-h-T4WtFV2Hw/UUYrojXZpQI/AAAAAAAADiw/AqPb-uA6Mg8/s640/Screen%2520shot%25202013-03-17%2520at%252020.44.21.png)

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on March 17, 2013, 09:39:31 pm
You spend all that money on bricks and park that on the drive?
(And why have they blurred out the double burner BBQ?)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 17, 2013, 10:30:39 pm
Your Dad wins on the windows alone!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 18, 2013, 12:07:02 pm
And the wheels.

My dad built our old house in Dorset too, I'm amazed it's still standing. And it appears to have shrunk since I lived there.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tesla on March 20, 2013, 09:14:11 pm
NNFN: gave house keys to the missus this morning, just got home and realized I'm locked out. The silver-YYFY-lining is that I have a laptop and can catch up on my UKB for the next hour until she gets back.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 20, 2013, 10:49:36 pm
I did the opposite not so long ago, and found it quite distressing.

I arrived at work, then realised that as the missus had left earlier and my keys were not with me ( but crucially I had definitely locked the front door) -they must be still in it. Or so I hoped every moment of the stressful drive home. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tesla on March 21, 2013, 12:24:35 am
Heh. Rather embarrassingly, the only reason my wife had my keys in the first place was because *she* had got locked out of the house this morning, and come into work to borrow mine. I suspect we're both galloping towards senile dementia.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2013, 09:30:34 am
they must be still in it. 

Been there done that.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on March 21, 2013, 09:41:27 am
Heh. Rather embarrassingly, the only reason my wife had my keys in the first place was because *she* had got locked out of the house this morning, and come into work to borrow mine. I suspect we're both galloping towards senile dementia.

Busy lives more like - too much to think about
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2013, 10:46:41 am
I think I have a 5 item short term register in my memory - every time I try and add another thing in something drops out the bottom of the list.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 26, 2013, 11:48:16 am
Just embarking the most madcap project of my life, with friends arriving to stay tonight, the kids beginning Easter holidays on thurs, My other half full of tonsillitis, one child with tonsils out a week ago and a four year old girl following Mummy with the tonsillitis. After the sewers blocking yesterday and me spending the afternoon with the drain rods...

I woke up this morning at 5am exploding from both ends...

Haven't stopped yet.

Oh how I love the Noro virus.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on March 26, 2013, 12:05:23 pm
Just embarking the most madcap project of my life, with friends arriving to stay tonight, the kids beginning Easter holidays on thurs, My other half full of tonsillitis, one child with tonsils out a week ago and a four year old girl following Mummy with the tonsillitis. After the sewers blocking yesterday and me spending the afternoon with the drain rods...

I woke up this morning at 5am exploding from both ends...

Haven't stopped yet.

Oh how I love the Noro virus.

Hell on earth!

Get well soon the lot of you!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on March 29, 2013, 02:17:16 pm
Nnfn. Dropped last move of narcissus 2 on flash and rolled my ankle..... Flying to America tomorrow.... Bugger
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 29, 2013, 09:33:40 pm
Might be a bit late now but try to keep it moving - you can more or less walk rolled ankles off.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on March 29, 2013, 09:57:03 pm
Yeah man cheers.... Rubbed snow on it for a bit then have kept moving since.... My girlfriend wasn't impressed! Haha
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on March 30, 2013, 10:46:38 am
It's fecking mint out. I'm off out...on a stag do... :slap:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on April 10, 2013, 10:04:44 am
Some twat broke into the Chequemobile last night, lured only by the promise of a closed glovebox.  >:(

All they took was the faceplate of my car stereo and Ipod cable, the manual thing, a tyre pressure gauge and (I shit you not) a biro but replacing the window and the faceplate has cost more than I had in the big Autumn USA trip fund.

Fucking thieving cunts.  :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 15, 2013, 03:49:19 pm
Grr.. just had the numbing email notification that a Nature submission I lead authored has been rejected.
One good review, but the other reviewer was "the worst person it could have gone to". They spent 4000 words bitterly tearing us apart (we only had 2000 for the fecking article itself). My publising nemesis has struck again and prevented a possible career high.

Tits^10.

Back to revisit an old one I'm afraid... following the above we managed to haggle to make changes and re-submit for re-review.. 4000 words of supp material later and 6 months work... leading to it being resubmitted AND...

we just had the 'Dear John' f*ck off letter from the Editor...

Bah. Reformat and re-submit... yadayadayada...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JamieG on April 15, 2013, 04:02:14 pm
Grr.. just had the numbing email notification that a Nature submission I lead authored has been rejected.
One good review, but the other reviewer was "the worst person it could have gone to". They spent 4000 words bitterly tearing us apart (we only had 2000 for the fecking article itself). My publising nemesis has struck again and prevented a possible career high.

Tits^10.

Back to revisit an old one I'm afraid... following the above we managed to haggle to make changes and re-submit for re-review.. 4000 words of supp material later and 6 months work... leading to it being resubmitted AND...

we just had the 'Dear John' f*ck off letter from the Editor...

Bah. Reformat and re-submit... yadayadayada...

The joys of academia! Sometimes you have to wonder if the reviewer even read the article. Good luck on the re-submission.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on April 15, 2013, 04:04:09 pm
I hope the first thing you're going to do it write back saying "My names Tom actually, not john..."  :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 16, 2013, 07:51:39 am
Last week
Form the followign into a horror story of your choosing:

Font trip
Rain
Diarrhoea
Vomiting
No euro breakdown cover
Terminal engine failure in France
Ear infection
Vast expense
Getting screwed by the AA
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on April 16, 2013, 07:58:37 am
on the brightside how was lego land?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on April 16, 2013, 08:11:36 am
Last week
Form the followign into a horror story of your choosing:

Font trip
Rain
Diarrhoea
Vomiting
No euro breakdown cover
Terminal engine failure in France
Ear infection
Vast expense
Getting screwed by the AA

Sounds like a rubbish trip indeed. Any knowledge about European breakdown cover smallprint that you can share?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 16, 2013, 08:19:54 am
Grr.. just had the numbing email notification that a Nature submission I lead authored has been rejected.
One good review, but the other reviewer was "the worst person it could have gone to". They spent 4000 words bitterly tearing us apart (we only had 2000 for the fecking article itself). My publising nemesis has struck again and prevented a possible career high.

Tits^10.

Back to revisit an old one I'm afraid... following the above we managed to haggle to make changes and re-submit for re-review.. 4000 words of supp material later and 6 months work... leading to it being resubmitted AND...

we just had the 'Dear John' f*ck off letter from the Editor...

Bah. Reformat and re-submit... yadayadayada...

At first, to the Layman, the whole Peer review system sounds great.

Until you realise " Peer" means competitor (or burnt out/bitter has been), with very non-scientific, very human, emotions and reactions.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 16, 2013, 08:31:24 am
Last week
Form the followign into a horror story of your choosing:

Font trip
Rain
Diarrhoea
Vomiting
No euro breakdown cover
Terminal engine failure in France
Ear infection
Vast expense
Getting screwed by the AA

Sounds like a rubbish trip indeed. Any knowledge about European breakdown cover smallprint that you can share?
Make sure you've got some, typically this was the first trip we didn't have any.
Also if you speak to someone at the AA (who I have UK recovery cover with) and they say "get your car back to the UK and we'll sort it from there" don't be in any way surprised if you get your car back to the UK and they then refuse to in any way "sort it".

Grubes Legoland was awesome of course!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on April 16, 2013, 08:36:19 am
Definitely worth a letter of complaint. Don't forget that all calls are recorded so if they misled you have a case.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on April 16, 2013, 08:57:01 am


At first, to the Layman, the whole Peer review system sounds great.

Until you realise " Peer" means competitor (or burnt out/bitter has been), with very non-scientific, very human, emotions and reactions.

A lot of which stems back to issues Karl Popper (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karl_Popper) and Thomas Kuhn (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Kuhn) "debated" (if I remember correctly they didn't actually have many direct exchanges either in person or writing) about the structure and conduct of science.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on April 16, 2013, 09:29:42 am
Sounds like a rubbish trip indeed. Any knowledge about European breakdown cover smallprint that you can share?
Make sure you've got some, typically this was the first trip we didn't have any.
Also if you speak to someone at the AA (who I have UK recovery cover with) and they say "get your car back to the UK and we'll sort it from there" don't be in any way surprised if you get your car back to the UK and they then refuse to in any way "sort it".


When I was sorting cover before my trip last week they insisted on quoting from home and back again. "Hold on", I queried, "I'm already a member so surely you cover the UK part of the journey already?"
But apparently not, wouldn't give you a car for onward journey otherwise (and no straight answer on whether a replacement car would be of a similar size to the insured, take a roofbox, etc), so effectively had to fork out double for the the short time spent travelling to Hull and back. Wasn't really impressed with their service or attitude toward a current customer but it still seemed the best option.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 16, 2013, 09:33:11 am
Definitely worth a letter of complaint. Don't forget that all calls are recorded so if they misled you have a case.
Fear not our extensive complaints making department (the wife) is fired up and ready to go...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 16, 2013, 09:41:37 am


At first, to the Layman, the whole Peer review system sounds great.

Until you realise " Peer" means competitor (or burnt out/bitter has been), with very non-scientific, very human, emotions and reactions.

A lot of which stems back to issues Karl Popper (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karl_Popper) and Thomas Kuhn (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Kuhn) "debated" (if I remember correctly they didn't actually have many direct exchanges either in person or writing) about the structure and conduct of science.

Yep, I found Smolins " The trouble with physics", pretty worrying. I wonder how much good research is being sat on by spiteful old men.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 16, 2013, 09:43:59 am
Definitely worth a letter of complaint. Don't forget that all calls are recorded so if they misled you have a case.
Fear not our extensive complaints making department (the wife) is fired up and ready to go...

I have one of those, very useful.

Did you get anything done? In Font I mean.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 16, 2013, 09:47:01 am
On the small plus side I did manage to climb something every day, nothing of any note but some pleasant enough bits of climbing in between child/baby herding.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: richieb on May 10, 2013, 09:11:32 pm
In hospital after falling off the road bike. 
Broken thumb and generally smashed up.  :oops:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on May 10, 2013, 09:15:38 pm
In hospital after falling off the road bike. 
Broken thumb and generally smashed up.  :oops:

Lee and Jonny boy mentioned your accident today. Unlucky!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 10, 2013, 10:54:40 pm
Sorry to hear that Richie, get well soon!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 11, 2013, 07:36:12 am
Get well soon!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: richieb on May 11, 2013, 05:08:31 pm
Thanks fellas. They have let me go home now. Still can't remember what happened though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 12, 2013, 10:22:10 pm
You forgot you are not very good on a bike, let alone going fast? You look like a (losing) prize fighter!

Happy healing. Hope the thumb is OK.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on May 22, 2013, 03:40:45 pm
Just got back from a visit to my GP regarding chronic low level aches/pains/instability in my left knee. On ultrasound the upper edge of my patella looks well worn down. Incipient arthritis, NNFN.

I'm sure I'm not the only one here who is getting on a bit and has spent years systematically wearing out crucial body parts. Got referrals for MR scan and physiotherapy. I already take turmeric capsules and eat lots of ginger. Anything else?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on May 27, 2013, 11:27:43 pm
Just got back from a visit to my GP regarding chronic low level aches/pains/instability in my left knee. On ultrasound the upper edge of my patella looks well worn down. Incipient arthritis, NNFN.

I'm sure I'm not the only one here who is getting on a bit and has spent years systematically wearing out crucial body parts. Got referrals for MR scan and physiotherapy. I already take turmeric capsules and eat lots of ginger. Anything else?

Been told to stop eating tomatoes - not bothered to research whether it's true or not but it seems to be common advice. Not sure I eat enough to worry about it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shurt on May 28, 2013, 12:58:10 pm
Just pulled my A2 in a ring finger and it hurts a lot. Much icing and brufen taking place. No climbing for a while.

Unrelated but even worse, I have to have an MRI as I may have something wrong with my aorta due to a genetic condition that might have been passed on from my Dad. He dropped dead out of the blue last year.

NNFN...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on May 28, 2013, 10:23:29 pm
ah sh1t. best of luck with the scan.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 29, 2013, 08:42:48 am
Triple grimness. Hope it all goes well mate.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 29, 2013, 09:50:48 pm
Take it easy, Shurt.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 29, 2013, 11:52:01 pm
Better to find out now, than later/too late...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ianto9 on May 29, 2013, 11:54:46 pm
all the best
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shurt on May 30, 2013, 10:50:08 pm
Thanks everyone for.the kind words. Will have to see how it goes next week. Shame I can't go to the wall or something as normally helps clear my head...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 31, 2013, 09:07:11 am
You could always go surfing again :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on May 31, 2013, 04:01:01 pm
This ones a doozy.... Went to the wrong airport and missed my flight to Amsterdam for the weekend... No idea how I managed it.... :slap:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on May 31, 2013, 04:25:18 pm
Which airport did you go to and which airport should you have been at?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on May 31, 2013, 07:50:32 pm
Went to Leeds Bradford... My mate rang and said "just got to Manchester where are you".... Pretty spectacular.... It's on my list of top f..kups hahahahaha
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on May 31, 2013, 11:54:33 pm
I once went to Gatwick when I should have been at Heathrow. At least you don't tend to make that sort of mistake twice....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on June 01, 2013, 07:37:11 am
You could look at it as you saved money not going..?
My mate booked his flight to meet me in Rocklands a couple of years back. All good except he booked September instead of August.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on June 01, 2013, 11:03:19 am
Starting a new job Monday and was dreading gettin delayed and not getting back Sunday night... Never imagined I'd not get there hahahaha. Any more stories? Haha
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on June 03, 2013, 12:11:33 pm
Went to Font and took wifes passport instead on mine, luckily they never asked to see them at the tunnel.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 03, 2013, 12:29:47 pm
I know of someone on here who arrived a full 24 hours early for their flight?

Ones that piss me off are when for once you arrive in good time at the airport only to have the flight delayed for forever.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on June 03, 2013, 01:04:26 pm
Missed a flight due to the sound stopping working on my phone overnight and so didn't hear the silent alarm! At least it was only work and not something enjoyable.
Landed in glorious sunshine last week and thought I'd got on the wrong plane, only to discover that unfortunately it was Glasgow we'd landed at.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on June 03, 2013, 01:58:31 pm
Managed to miss an early flight when we stayed overnight at Birmingham airport all of 50m from the check in desk,  :slap: long story but it wasn't (all) our fault and it came good in the end at their expense.

Another time 24hrs before a Font trip we realised that neither me or Mrs Obi had applied for a passport for our youngest. Cue completely wasted mad rush to passport office at great expense (fuel, increased passport fee, speeding tic) only to confirm you CANNOT get a FIRST passport in less than a week. Still came good as me and my eldest had a great trip with plenty of quality father and son time, Mrs Obi had a nice time with her folks and the baby!  :hug:

I now rather overplan for trips aboard.  :-[
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 03, 2013, 02:03:29 pm
You have to elaborate on the first one, did you get so pissed you were unable to crawl the remaining 50 metres?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on June 03, 2013, 02:26:53 pm
You have to elaborate on the first one, did you get so pissed you were unable to crawl the remaining 50 metres?
The short(ish) version is we did oversleep by about 20min, however still got to the desk with plenty of time spare (more than an hour), but the numbty 3rd party crew handling the flight massively understaffed the desk (and gate) so the queue for 3 flights was manned by one desk. Consequently we got to the front to be told the flight was closed. We weren't the only ones. Then they had the audacity to blame us for turning up late! Eventually they reviewed CCTV, admitted they were at fault and paid for different flights, transfers and breakfast.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 03, 2013, 02:31:47 pm
Nice, not all bad then!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on June 03, 2013, 03:33:43 pm
Trip to Font just gone I (admittedly jetlagged having only landed from Sydney 48 hrs before) misread the arrival time in Calais as our departure time from Dover. Realised in such time that if we'd sprinted out of the door and done 100mph all the way we might have just made it. Took the option of paying the extra £35 for the later crossing.

Also, while living in London was meant to be on an early train (6am from Paddington) down to Plymouth with colleagues. Told my boss to ring me once she got to the station to find out where I'd be. She called at 5:40am, asked where I was and the answer was "shit - still at home in bed...slept through my alarm"!


Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on June 04, 2013, 05:39:19 pm
My cat got hit by a car today.
She is going to be okay (yyfy) but has a broken pelvis and needs to be kept in a cage for 6 weeks. :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 04, 2013, 05:46:17 pm
Poor thing, I dread something happening to my cats.

(hope you were insured!)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 04, 2013, 06:02:52 pm
:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on June 04, 2013, 06:47:42 pm
No insurance ...
I had taken her brother in for illness the day before and yes back in tomorrow for a check up picking her up at the same time
She does not need an operation so hoping not too expensive
Also had to buy a cage to keep her in
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/05/8a4ebaje.jpg)
So will have a dog cage for sale in two months.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 04, 2013, 06:53:53 pm
Hmmm, nothing a cat likes more than being cooped up in a cage.
Standby for angry cat!

Mine's on the shit list with the Mrs right now.
Damn thing casually strolled up to the dogs bowl, just after we'd put her food down, and crapped all over it!

Hope the break mends clean.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on June 04, 2013, 09:34:22 pm
My cat got hit by a car today.
She is going to be okay (yyfy) but has a broken pelvis and needs to be kept in a cage for 6 weeks. :-\

I had a cat who climbed in through a high window with a fully broken pelvis, discovered her in the morning, took to vets. He wasn't very reassuring - she was fine a month or two later. Be optimistic, they're pretty tough little things.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 04, 2013, 09:40:35 pm
Hmmm, nothing a cat likes more than being cooped up in a cage.
Standby for angry cat!

One of mine broke its leg really badly (ops, pins etc. cost about £2K but we were insured) and had to spend several weeks in a cage; he was remarkably tolerant of it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shurt on June 04, 2013, 10:35:48 pm
I turned up 24 hrs early at Geneva airport after climbing in Cham. Luckily I had a mate out there who I was staying with... I also flew out there on Sept 11th the year afterthe twin towers. The flight was super cheap and empty!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on June 05, 2013, 08:50:22 am
Thinking we need a travelling stories nnfn...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 05, 2013, 09:38:58 am
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=5617.175 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=5617.175)

most of them would fit in here.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on June 06, 2013, 03:30:42 am
Flat tyre yesterday. Not too much worry. Going to the tyre place to get a new one this morning only to have ANOTHER FUCKING FLAT!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Palomides on June 06, 2013, 10:11:52 am
This might slow me down a bit:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QW8AldfNy5w/UbBRHhkzPgI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/i19mIu-akYU/s640/TravFinger.JPG)

Managed to rip a fingertip whilst trying alternative sequences to my initial low-percentage lunge method on "Travailleurs de la mer" at St Bauzille.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on June 06, 2013, 10:35:06 am
cats now home.
Vet bills so far: £383 plus needs regular check ups at over £20 a time plus drugs ...

I should of bought insurance!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ianv on June 07, 2013, 10:12:25 am
Slipped on a greasy slope last Friday, landed on my back and (suspected) bruised my ribs. Wednesday woke up with the most intense muscle spasms ever (and pain induced turettes), it does not seem to be getting better even dosed up on a cocktail of Diazapan, Co codamol and ibuprofen, gutted to be missing the good weather and worried about summer riding plans going to shit  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 07, 2013, 10:32:32 am
I sipped on wet concrete blocks on beach yesterday, smacked hand (still not sure if scaphoid is OK) and looks like I fucked lens on camera I was carrying BER.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on June 07, 2013, 03:48:58 pm
Slipped on a greasy slope last Friday, landed on my back and (suspected) bruised my ribs. Wednesday woke up with the most intense muscle spasms ever (and pain induced turettes), it does not seem to be getting better even dosed up on a cocktail of Diazapan, Co codamol and ibuprofen, gutted to be missing the good weather and worried about summer riding plans going to shit  :'(
Nightmare Ian. Keep popping the pills though and it'll soon wear off, when I did my back in a few years back it felt like it was never going to fix (compression fracture of L1) but the pills did the trick and was playing Sunday league footy in four weeks. Keep the faith!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 07, 2013, 08:12:44 pm
I picked up a Hippo bag, half full of plaster waste, with Chris yesterday. Top end of a 2 man lift.
I said " watch your back Chris, lifting like that.

And slipped on a bit of lath/sawdust.

Shagged my back.

Stiff as a pr0n stars cock.

I feel your pain, dude.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on June 07, 2013, 08:27:55 pm
I screwed my back 2 weeks ago putting the kids to bed (it's all rock and roll). Despite being hadly able to move or sleep for a few days, it's been fine this week. Use it as an excuse to put your feet up and drink beer in the sun.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ianv on June 07, 2013, 08:56:38 pm
Quote
Use it as an excuse to put your feet up and drink beer in the sun.

Unfortunately, beer, diazapan and co codamol don't go so well together  :badidea:  :wall:   :badidea:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on June 08, 2013, 08:49:56 am
Just when I thought things couldn't get worse.
I was due to have a long weekend in riglos this weekend but the forecast for Spain was rain and thunderstorms where as it was amazing her so we decided ditch it and stay here :(
And
My other cat not the one hit by the car was ill after not responding to a couple of injections the vets ran some test.
Turns out he had leukemia he was put down yesterday
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 08, 2013, 09:01:10 am
 :( RIP grubescat2
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 08, 2013, 11:13:25 am
Sad, very sad.

Are we the only species that becomes so attached to another species that we make them a member of our family?

I know I do.
When I picture my family, the dog and the cat are there too; it would not be the same family without them.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: psychomansam on June 14, 2013, 09:36:07 am
Lower back. Nuff said.  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: galpinos on June 24, 2013, 10:34:28 am
Both my and my wife's bikes pinched from the shed over the weekend.

Not impressed.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 24, 2013, 10:37:17 am
Both my and my wife's bikes pinched from the shed over the weekend.

Not impressed.

Thats not good news :( a couple of weeks ago we had some pcso's knocking on saying there were shed break ins on the rise down this way..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: galpinos on June 24, 2013, 11:28:43 am
We're an end terrace and the way the gated alleys are laid out means they have to climb into our yard to get to everyone else's yard, so they start with us. Next door seemed fine, two doors down had their bikes thrown over the wall but they're are less bling than ours so I can only assume they had a limited number of bikes they could get away with.

They're insured (I think, the missus is checking) but my main concern is that when we replace them, they'll come back and nick them again unless I turn the yard into Fort Knox, something I'm not keen on.

The other, really annoying thing is the missus' bike going. It took ages to find a decent hardtail that she liked and that model is discontinued.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 24, 2013, 11:35:55 am
Yup thats shit :( Friend in York had two v good bikes stolen from her garage, so she went to town on security - and 6 months later they got in by taking bricks out of the wall to make a hole large enough to get in/out...

Like you say, the problem is they know where they came from and proably think in 6 months lets have another look and see what they've replaced them with...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SamT on June 24, 2013, 01:11:01 pm

 :furious:

definitely on the rise around sharrow since about the week before christmas. seems like everyone on our street has had some 'attention' of late.

 Someone smashed a neighbors car window in right outside our bay window to grab sommat from the front seat in broad daylight and right in front of a different neighbor who was just walking up the road.  Only consolation was he comically turned to run and hit a lamppost there.  Hope his graze gets infected badly.

Just seems to be a game of 'waiting for our turn' which is depressing.  Considering a small web cam esque cctv camera.
Deterrent or Attraction -  :shrug:  will they just think we have something worth stealing.

On a more positive note.  Left the car boot wide open on the main harbour front in Tobemory whilst on hol at half term.  We were gone over two hours and nobody had touched a thing.  Phew.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 24, 2013, 01:16:29 pm
I've done that surfing at Watergate Bay. In such a rush to get in the water, left passenger door wide open, with wallet, phone laptop under parcelshelf in boot. Guess folk assume you are nearby!

You can get little CCTVs for very little money. Set it up where they would need a rope to access; eaves of roof etc.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 02, 2013, 04:15:12 pm
First day bouldering outdoors in 2 months and I've crunched a finger. Had my left hand in a slot which apparently is quite a good jam if you try and move too quickly before removing said fingers from said slot. CRUNCH is the noise it made.

Ferk!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on July 02, 2013, 10:17:22 pm
Both my and my wife's bikes pinched from the shed over the weekend.

Not impressed.

 >:(

Oh no... Bastards
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: catbreath on July 04, 2013, 06:25:34 pm
Was having my first proper (indoor) bouldering session last night after a two week period of gentle climbs to give my fingers a break. Was having a great time on all the new routes flashing V3's and whatnot which is fab progress for me, until about two hours in I noticed I had a blind spot right in the middle of my left eye. Thought it was time to go, so I left and then over the next forty minutes it changed into a scintillating squiggle that spread and grew until it disappeared off the left side of my vision. Vision was fine after and doc said it was probably nothing serious but gave me a bit of a fright and kinda ruined the night  >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fried on July 04, 2013, 07:43:51 pm
Sounds like a migraine aura, I had the same thing about 6 years ago and I thought I was a gonna, keep calm they sometimes happen in clusters.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 25, 2013, 03:40:56 pm
Grr.. just had the numbing email notification that a Nature submission I lead authored has been rejected.
One good review, but the other reviewer was "the worst person it could have gone to". They spent 4000 words bitterly tearing us apart (we only had 2000 for the fecking article itself). My publising nemesis has struck again and prevented a possible career high.

Tits^10.

Back to revisit an old one I'm afraid... following the above we managed to haggle to make changes and re-submit for re-review.. 4000 words of supp material later and 6 months work... leading to it being resubmitted AND...

we just had the 'Dear John' f*ck off letter from the Editor...

Bah. Reformat and re-submit... yadayadayada...

An update on the saga...

Just been accepted with minor revisions to PLOSone - every cloud has a silver whatsitsface etc.,.. :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SpanishJuan on July 28, 2013, 10:44:05 am

An update on the saga...

Just been accepted with minor revisions to PLOSone - every cloud has a silver whatsitsface etc.,.. :)

Nice one Tomtom
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: willackers on August 22, 2013, 10:22:18 am
Digital car radio and 6 CD changer stolen out of my car last night! They m,ade a righrt mess of the dash trying to get into the glove box as well. Dirty little rats.

Who th f**k steals car stereos in 2013?!?!?   :furious:

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on August 22, 2013, 10:28:17 am
Fckin little bastards! Got eat some cheese, that'll cheer you up. nom nom.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on August 22, 2013, 12:03:07 pm
Scum bags.
Sorry dude.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JamieG on August 22, 2013, 01:14:09 pm
Got broken into on Tuesday night. They stole the wife's bike, laptop, iPad, camera and backpack. Woke up mid-burglary and chased one out the house. Stood in the middle of the road in my boxers and watched five or six of them run off into night. Looks like the managed to get in through a window and then opened the front door.

After the Police had been around, I went for a wander and found the wife's back-pack dumped on the pavement, they managed to miss her purse and passport (small relief). Hopefully our insurance is going to cover it all, but has left us both pretty shaken.

Bloody useless dogs didn't make a peep until they started barking at the Police!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 22, 2013, 01:30:41 pm
Bummer all round. hope you both have good insurance to cover it, and laptop and CD changer are well backed up, so you don't lose anything critical.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: willackers on August 22, 2013, 02:51:28 pm
Got broken into on Tuesday night. They stole the wife's bike, laptop, iPad, camera and backpack. Woke up mid-burglary and chased one out the house. Stood in the middle of the road in my boxers and watched five or six of them run off into night. Looks like the managed to get in through a window and then opened the front door.

After the Police had been around, I went for a wander and found the wife's back-pack dumped on the pavement, they managed to miss her purse and passport (small relief). Hopefully our insurance is going to cover it all, but has left us both pretty shaken.

Bloody useless dogs didn't make a peep until they started barking at the Police!

That's awful, sounds like that could have turned nasty, glad you're both ok.

When I spoke to the insurance and police this morning they informed that there had been two other similar incidents near my house last night, sounds like they were on a bit of a mission. Luckily it sounds like my insurance are covering it, although I still have to fork out the £200 excess, £200 for getting my stereo nicked, great.

They need their fu**ing hands chopping off, it's disgusting. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on August 30, 2013, 08:15:18 pm
Last night we walked up to bivi beneath Lurking Fear with half of the water we're going to require (50 litres total, that's more than Nat weighs). We arrived to find that a righteous climber had decided that they'd empty out our water and gatorade that was left at the base of the climb a few days before when we bailed due to heat (at the time I was dry heaving and couldn't stand up without feeling dizzy).

What really bothers me about this is that they'd chosen not to empty out (and deal with) 20-30 litres of country style lemonade that's clearly been abandoned for the entire summer (it smells of degrading bottle / chemicals) and they also decided to leave our bottles where they were. As 'garbage' is deemed a bear attractant (and that's what they were effectively punishing us for) that makes zero sense. (We filled two day-packs with rubbish and carried them out on the day we fixed lines).

They also decided to have a look in our haul bag to check we hadn't left anything else in there (despite being in a state we'd remembered to remove all foods, scented bin bags etc.). They didn't find it necessary to re-close the storm closure though.

You can't access the base (or it is very unlikely) without using a technically 'illegal' fixed line. One of which is ruined and dangerous but I'm assuming that as these lines served a purpose to them, that law wasn't quite as important.

Oh, and I know this wasn't a bear as they left a note, written on fingertape on one of the bottles.

So, I ended up jugging and hauling our food and the remaining (freshly carried up) water by headtorch. On the plus side the fact I was fuming meant it went 1:1 and at speed!

/rant
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on September 17, 2013, 03:59:04 pm
Finally fixed my split tips after 2 weeks and took a rest day today in order to have an early morning raid to the pass to make the most of the brief weather window and finish of diesel power... Only to find out today, whilst reading about the Tour of Britain, that it is closed all day from 2am-7pm for the cyclists to pass through...on the one morning I had available for a while...  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on September 21, 2013, 05:16:30 am
Got caught speeding on a country road in Canada ..
122 km/hr in an 80 ... Though the speed limit was 100 ... So still fuct
$317 fine ... If I don't pay it and get stopped in Ontario one night in prison fine and car impounded ..
I now have a suspended Ontario driving licence ... I did not even take a test ...
Fuck !!!
Apparently if I was doing 8 km/hr faster I would be in prison tonight and band from driving
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AndyR on September 21, 2013, 07:47:26 am
Got caught speeding on a country road in Canada ..
122 km/hr in an 80 ... Though the speed limit was 100 ... So still fuct

Oh bollocks - where was that?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on September 21, 2013, 11:27:48 am
Limit was 80
Country road 45 in ontario.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on September 30, 2013, 10:03:07 am
Got knocked back from trying to join the army for the 2nd time today. >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 30, 2013, 11:00:13 am
Is that a YYFY or a NNFN?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on September 30, 2013, 11:36:28 am
NNFN. I'm TRYING to join up as a Parachute Rigger and they keep knocking me back because I fractured my heel last year.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on October 02, 2013, 07:43:24 pm
Got knocked back from trying to join the army for the 2nd time today. >:(

Silver lining to this one I'm sure
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Durbs on October 16, 2013, 04:35:38 pm
Got knocked back on 2 applications today for new jobs. Meant to be in mega-saving mode for wedding and little'uns (can't fend the Mrs off much longer), so the money would've been a great help.

Ho-hum.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 16, 2013, 04:39:23 pm
Week and a half and back still fucked. Fuck IKEA, fuck heavy PAX wardrobes, and fuck having to carry them up our twisted staircase by myself.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 16, 2013, 05:24:55 pm
Next time don't be so bloody cheap and get it from a shop that delivers. Anyone would think that being in Aberdeen too long is rubbing off on you; if you lose your sense of humour then you might as well start talking doric!


P.S. hope the back heals up. The lass' back has been iffy for months, it's no fun!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 16, 2013, 05:42:15 pm
They did deliver. I had to get the bloody stuff up stairs and into our room once we'd made space for it though.

If I start saying furry boots, foos yer doos, fit like the loon or similar you may kill me painfully though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on October 18, 2013, 10:23:22 pm
Glorious weather forecast, free from family duties, probably one of the last few chances of the autumn to get out on some actual rock - and your climbing partner cries off at eleven o'clock the evening before. Arse.

 :furious: :furious: :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 18, 2013, 10:26:35 pm
 >:( Go to a popular sport crag and take cake to bribe people??
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on October 18, 2013, 10:46:45 pm
Quote
Glorious weather forecast, free from family duties, probably one of the last few chances of the autumn to get out on some actual rock - and your climbing partner cries off at eleven o'clock the evening before. Arse.

You need to find another climbing partner.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on October 18, 2013, 10:49:57 pm
Reel the grade in and have a nice day soloing?



Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: saltbeef on October 18, 2013, 11:32:39 pm
Go boulderising!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on October 18, 2013, 11:33:54 pm
You need to find another climbing partner.

This was an attempt to widen my circle of climbing partners. Win some, lose some.

Reel the grade in and have a nice day soloing?

Yep, currently trying to figure out which of my local alpine objectives fit realistically into 11 hours of daylight.

[Note To Self: Headtorch Batteries Into Charger]




[/quote]
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on October 24, 2013, 07:46:34 am
Warming up this arvo and something in my left ring finger popped really loudly and quite painful. :wall:

In the first knuckle, it sounded and felt like my knuckle cracking albeit much louder and more painful.
Doesn't seem to be any swelling but hurting constantly down the left side of the knuckle. Currently icing it but going on the movement I have with it (finger moves fine, just painfully) I don't think (read: I hope its not) its serious. I think it might just be a violent knuckle crack...

Any ideas?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 24, 2013, 08:13:56 am
Whenever I've popped/sretched an A2/A3 there has been no pain - whatsoever. Just a gentle numbness that starts about 10-15 min later...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on October 24, 2013, 10:14:00 am
Whenever I've popped/sretched an A2/A3 there has been no pain - whatsoever. Just a gentle numbness that starts about 10-15 min later...

Similar for me. When I did mine I could still hang on it and crimp for a short while. Then swelling and numbness started a bit later.

Watch out what you do for the next day or so. I opened a sugar jar the following day and it "popped" again. This is when my pain really started!

Hope it's nothing serious.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shurt on October 24, 2013, 01:02:51 pm
I cut through both the tendons on the back of my left index finger with a Stanley knife at work. My finger didn't work so I drove through Friday rush hour traffic for 6 miles to A and E pissing with blood. I've had an operation to reattach them and am now on hourly physio exercises which are excruciating. I've got to 'work through the pain' apparently. 3 months till better.
Life is a massive balls up sometimes. Oh I'm self employed too.
Anyone done anything similar?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 24, 2013, 01:58:51 pm
Shit sam, not good! A friend of mine's wife cut some in her knuckle / back of finger smashing up an old toilet to remove it. Had a bit of surgery and got it fixed; took a while but she's fine now, she's not much of a climber though. I'll see if I can get in touch for some advice.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 24, 2013, 02:10:23 pm
F*ck Shurt thats grim :( probably good that you got it looked at so fast....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatboySlimfast on October 24, 2013, 02:15:17 pm
I was pissing about on Als Attic up at apperent North t'other day and thought I would jump from the slots at the end of the traverse for the jug missing out the two holds.........essentially my r.h  fingers were cantilevered under a small roof so as I  dynoed mainly my middle two fingers stayed in exactly the same position and hyper extended at the first joint. Sounded  like the snapping of celery, trip to A&E revealed I had pulled a cone of bone off each finger joint on the end of the ligament attached to the joint.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on October 24, 2013, 02:18:51 pm
Volar plate injury?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shurt on October 24, 2013, 03:43:37 pm
Well I've got to give the NHS top marks. I think my brother said think how much debt Id be in if this happened in the US. They've been great and I'm at the hospital with the physio twice a week for next two months. I feel looked after...

Sorry to hear bout bone injury fatboy sounds v grim
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 24, 2013, 06:01:15 pm
Shit, both these stories are nightmareish. Puts failing on my current nemesis, yet again, into perspective! Get well soon both of you (hello Lucien!).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 24, 2013, 07:02:15 pm
That sounds grim FBSF :(

Bad day for NNFN's all round...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on October 24, 2013, 07:35:07 pm
Yep volar plate  :(

Just lost my weds eve board Training buddy, so could burnt off by FBSF and my son in one easy session.... Heal fast mate.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on October 24, 2013, 07:42:27 pm
Bugger all compared to some of the woes here, more of a "nnfn!!!" I guess but...

Woke up on Monday barely able to move my head! Been to the GP and got a physio referral and spent the morning being flexed and prodded.  Seems I have the bastard child of torticollis, brachial plexus badness, and shot cervical spine segments! Now sitting in my dressing gown with a hot-water bottle wedged behind my neck, looking online for a monitor stand! (it seems, amongst many other things, my monitor is nearly a foot too low).  Hey ho... possibly just as well there's not much sport climbing left in the year - bring on the bouldering!  and... finally, I get some value from my work health plan!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on October 24, 2013, 08:11:54 pm
Oh dear. Rather puts my "wah, missed ONE DAY's climbing!" in perspective.

Gute Besserung, guys.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 28, 2013, 10:45:44 pm
That's a bummer fatboy, hope that heals ok.

Moose -ouch, good luck with recovery, sounds like a real pain.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on October 29, 2013, 08:05:42 am
@mrjonathanr

Cheers fella, a pain in the neck literally and figuratively - especially with a week in Spain starting on Saturday - somehow don't I'll be pushing my grade! (note to self, pack the belay glasses).  Physio this morning, unfortunately to undo all the physio's good efforts, I have a 200 miles of driving afterwards for a job.  Work showing sympathy for the painful difficulty I have turning my head - makes motorway lane changing maneuvers somewhat... exciting.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 29, 2013, 07:48:05 pm
Just do what everyone else seems to do round here, pick a lane (the middle one) and stay there until you need to veer off abruptly for the exit.  It's the English way.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on November 11, 2013, 12:58:41 pm
Fun weekend away, right up to the point I got home and realised we'd been burgled. Arse.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on November 11, 2013, 01:17:23 pm
Shit word.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JamieG on November 11, 2013, 02:01:44 pm
Fun weekend away, right up to the point I got home and realised we'd been burgled. Arse.

That is bollocks! We got broken into a couple months ago, such a shit feeling!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on November 11, 2013, 03:55:27 pm
cheers guys, tis rather shit. Happened before a few years ago in another house. Could have been a lot worse this time, they didn't trash the place and took relatively little. I'll get a new TV out of it. However I would feel a lot better about it if I'd remembered to activate 'remote lock and erase' on my tablet last week. Had done it on my phone but not on my Nexus 7. Typical. So for others out there make sure you set up this https://www.google.com/android/devicemanager (https://www.google.com/android/devicemanager)

Have changed all my passwords so should be ok. Typically didn't have any security on my tab.

Keep thinking there's a lot of people in the Philippines having a much worse time than me.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on November 12, 2013, 12:01:49 am
Do you have Androidlost or anything else like that? You can push install it. Probably a long-shot but you might be able to get something although you still won't be able to wipe it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on November 16, 2013, 02:31:57 pm
Managed to get some kind of food poisoning (from chicken) and spent the day vomiting and on the toilet. Felt better so meeta friend for lunch which ended up as a few chips which were violently brought back up. Ruined my day of climbing.

But maybe I'll be super light in a day or two and be able to crush...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on November 20, 2013, 12:14:26 pm
Some twat broke into the Chequemobile last night, lured only by the promise of a closed glovebox.  >:(

All they took was the faceplate of my car stereo and Ipod cable, the manual thing, a tyre pressure gauge and (I shit you not) a biro but replacing the window and the faceplate has cost more than I had in the big Autumn USA trip fund.

Fucking thieving cunts.  :furious:

This happened again last night. This time the only things in the car were two bouldering mats, which they didn't take. Doesn't even look like they opened the door after smashing the window but it does seem to be a thieves rather than vandals as no other cars in the carpark were touched and it was broken with a screwdriver in the window seal rather than chucking something through.

I've now spent more on the car in a month than it it's worth.  :(   
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on November 20, 2013, 12:16:00 pm
Some twat broke into the Chequemobile last night, lured only by the promise of a closed glovebox.  >:(

All they took was the faceplate of my car stereo and Ipod cable, the manual thing, a tyre pressure gauge and (I shit you not) a biro but replacing the window and the faceplate has cost more than I had in the big Autumn USA trip fund.

Fucking thieving cunts.  :furious:

This happened again last night. This time the only things in the car were two bouldering mats, which they didn't take. Doesn't even look like they opened the door after smashing the window but it does seem to be a thieves rather than vandals as no other cars in the carpark were touched and it was broken with a screwdriver in the window seal rather than chucking something through.

I've now spent more on the car in a month than it it's worth.  :(

nightmare, where abouts was it parked Mike?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 20, 2013, 04:11:00 pm
That's seriously bad luck. What a bunch of fucking cunts.  :spank:  :chair:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 20, 2013, 05:04:53 pm
That's seriously bad luck. What a bunch of fucking cunts.  :spank:  :chair:

+1
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on November 20, 2013, 09:41:23 pm
nightmare, where abouts was it parked Mike?

This time, in the carpark behind my flat in Sherwood where I always park it- never seen any evidence of car crime there in the past or indeed in Sherwood at all. Last time was in one of the dark alleys near the old climbing centre- asking for it basically.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: iain on November 21, 2013, 01:36:31 pm
Sorry to hear that cheque
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 01, 2013, 06:49:40 pm
Failed on The Ivy League @ Limekilns today, by wimping out of one 5b move to a good rest ledge, after pissing the lower cruxes, because "i was a bit pumped". What a fucking twat to throw away such a good route. The most angry I've been all year, althought 4 hours and 3 whiskys later I've gone from "incoherent with rage" to merely "cross".  >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 02, 2013, 10:47:58 pm
This is not good.. Just got through the getting used to the board thing..A 2 pulleys survived.. I post this strapped to an ice pack.. With a wrist covered in anti imflamatory gel:


I've just been diagnosed with a TFCC... That means my wrist ligament complex is knackered, from 30 years of climbing and biking... What that now means I get a MRI, get help form my awesome surgeon to access a well respected sports physio.. But if that fails and then cortisone injections fail... I'm off to Derby for a nationally regarded surgeon to try to stitch it together via keyhole. This is just NOT what I need.... My climbing / riding life has the potential to seriously compromised.. For good. Ohh... And I'm 45 tomoorrow.. B*llocks...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 03, 2013, 09:21:57 am
Suckage. Hope it sortes itself out.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 03, 2013, 09:42:04 am
Sorry to hear that Fatdoc, hopefully the diagnosis will offer a glimmer of cheer...

As to being 45, I wouldn't worry, people don't believe I am 45 -they obviously think I'm too immature and you're waaaaaay more infantile than me, so you'll be conning them for year s to come  ;D

Happy Birthday dude :wave:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on December 03, 2013, 09:48:12 am
Happy birthday young lad. Hope your wrist isnt as bad as you fear
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ianv on December 03, 2013, 10:05:28 am
Quote
And I'm 45 tomoorrow.. B*llocks...

But what's your fitness age??   http://www.ntnu.edu/cerg/vo2max (http://www.ntnu.edu/cerg/vo2max)

Caveat: does not take account of degenerative age related ailments  :-\ 

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tregiffian on December 03, 2013, 10:54:09 am
Can you get to be younger than springtime?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 03, 2013, 07:46:29 pm
yeah, i did one of those last week... 25  ;D

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 03, 2013, 07:53:57 pm
... update...

late notice cancellation = me getting MRI at 08:00 tomorrow. Ill get it reported within the hour. I f*ckin want to know what the hell i have done... cant even do a 4 finger hang or a pressup... tried an easy 4 ft drop on the bike this afternoon... mistake.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ianv on December 03, 2013, 08:06:20 pm
yeah, i did one of those last week... 25  ;D

25! That's shameful! Unfit bastard :jab:



Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 03, 2013, 08:28:52 pm
what!!!

you've lied on your basal heart rate 

 :popcorn:

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on December 03, 2013, 08:35:08 pm
]

But what's your fitness age??   http://www.ntnu.edu/cerg/vo2max (http://www.ntnu.edu/cerg/vo2max)

Caveat: does not take account of degenerative age related ailments  :-\

Fitness age - under 20  ;D

Actual age 48 -  :tease:

I think the fact that I can still bang the heart rate over 190 fairly easily played a part.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 03, 2013, 08:39:25 pm
right.. that's it..  ;)

im doing this one.. and I'll present my 45 year old, aged, arthritic result.. to scorn or admiration ( unlilkely... very)

 ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Blunk on December 03, 2013, 08:56:19 pm
... update...

late notice cancellation = me getting MRI at 08:00 tomorrow. Ill get it reported within the hour. I f*ckin want to know what the hell i have done... cant even do a 4 finger hang or a pressup... tried an easy 4 ft drop on the bike this afternoon... mistake.

TFCC, not good. :thumbsdown: I hope the MRI shows more inflammation than tearing and that a few weeks of physio sorts it out.

Two years ago I decided to stop climbing due to elbow issues. Fortunately the wife persuaded me to get surgery and recently I managed 7A for the first time in 3 years. I know your situation is potentially worse than mine, but don't give up hope. BTW, I'm 55 yrs old, your recuperative powers are far greater than mine!

Let us know how the MRI turned out if you don't mind.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 03, 2013, 09:18:11 pm
I will Blunk... and Im deeply grateful for any advice and support..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mark on December 03, 2013, 10:30:06 pm
Good luck for tomorrow. And happy birthday. 45? Ha ha, you old bastard. No, wait, I'm 45. Shit, how did that happen?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 04, 2013, 09:50:46 am
I think it's nice that all these old people have managed to learn to use computers and the internet so that they can chat about their health problems from the comfort of their own Shackletons high seat chair
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 04, 2013, 11:56:23 am
Lateral degeneration, oedema in joint complex, and IN the ulna bone. Delighted to be informed as in incidental finding I will be blighted by scaphoid arthritis in a few short years.

Management plan... Climbing is OK  :2thumbsup:

Getting physio exercises from British boxing team physio.. Via my very understanding surgeon.  Reportedly they have excellent non operative results.

Steroid injection in 6 weeks.

Bought 2 wrist widget splints.

Another steroid injection in June, to get me through dream trip of a life time to whistler MTB park....

Wrist scope + - repair end of summer 2014 if still an issue.

Could b worse...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on December 04, 2013, 12:01:10 pm


Getting physio exercises from British boxing team physio.. Via my very understanding surgeon.  Reportedly they have excellent non operative results.


Is that Rich Simpson's physio?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Motown on December 04, 2013, 01:49:23 pm
In Qatar - thought I'd be alright without regular outdoor climbing and just training on a board. Struggling. :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 04, 2013, 02:47:11 pm
Dunno.

I know they are based at the national institute of sport.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ianv on December 04, 2013, 04:34:13 pm
I think it's nice that all these old people have managed to learn to use computers and the internet so that they can chat about their health problems from the comfort of their own Shackletons high seat chair

Says the man with the mobility scooter   :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 04, 2013, 05:47:00 pm

Management plan... Climbing is OK  :2thumbsup:


Nice one Jon
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 04, 2013, 09:44:30 pm
Cheers JR.

Gonna wait a few weeks, for the bone oedema to subside... No idea where that came from..

But distraction apparently is good... Compression not so...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Blunk on December 04, 2013, 10:29:13 pm
Glad to see the good news Jon!

Makes sense distraction is better than compression.

Do you have lymph massage in the UK? I had a couple of sessions of that, took the swelling right out of my elbow post surgically.

Beer as a hobby the next few weeks?  :beer2:

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on December 14, 2013, 11:21:46 am
Left my fucking lights on while I was at work like a dick head and now battery is flat... FFS... :wall: :wall:
Couldn't even jump start it because of the immobiliser... :slap:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: pyrosis on December 21, 2013, 05:07:04 pm
At the Buttermilks yesterday - Finally sent High Plains Drifter YYFY :strongbench:! Then pitched off the top of Pope's Prow, missing the pads and spraining left ankle and left knee NNFN :shit: ! Supposed to follow up with ortho after the holiday and see if I need MRI/arthroscopy etc for my knee.   :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AndyR on December 21, 2013, 08:07:56 pm
At the Buttermilks yesterday - Finally sent High Plains Drifter YYFY :strongbench:! Then pitched off the top of Pope's Prow, missing the pads and spraining left ankle and left knee NNFN :shit: ! Supposed to follow up with ortho after the holiday and see if I need MRI/arthroscopy etc for my knee.   :furious:
Shite - good effort on HPD - such a cool problem. That sucks re ankle and knee - hope it heals quickly.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 21, 2013, 08:13:36 pm
Wish you well. Respect on HPD..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: pyrosis on December 22, 2013, 04:47:52 am
Thanks guys, crazy session was both the best and worst in recent memory. At least it wasn't uneventful   :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 23, 2013, 02:20:52 pm
Did you cock up on the mantle?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: pyrosis on December 23, 2013, 05:10:44 pm
I felt the mantel and didn't like it, or the pad situation - thought I would just hop off and reassess and have another go - but I hopped out too far and landed behind the pads - end of session. I'm hobbling around now so I don't think the knee is too badly damaged. I'm already thinking about a rematch.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Moo on December 24, 2013, 12:07:56 am
I remember that mantle falling apart while I was trying climb it, ended up swimming through grains of sand but it's not too bad if you just go for it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on December 30, 2013, 05:01:03 pm
I was stretching at the gym, not American, yesterday and a guy wandered over and asked me how long I'd been doing yoga!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on December 30, 2013, 07:46:23 pm
I was stretching at the gym, not American, yesterday and a guy wandered over and asked me how long I'd been doing yoga!!!

What's the difference between American and dense stretching then?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on December 30, 2013, 08:12:56 pm
Americans call the climbing wall "the gym" or "climbing gym" and this has been sneaking more and more for the cool cats over here. I just wanted to highlight that I was actually at a gym, not the wall.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on December 30, 2013, 08:25:43 pm
I just wanted to highlight that I was actually at a gym, not the wall.

You poor soul.  That really is a NNFN....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on December 30, 2013, 08:28:04 pm
He was only there to meet his dealer.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Moo on December 31, 2013, 12:46:20 am
To be fair he is better at stretching than climbing so the question was well grounded.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 31, 2013, 09:52:27 am
He was only there to meet his dealer.

Antiques? or Roids? ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 31, 2013, 10:08:57 am
I was stretching at the gym, not American, yesterday and a guy wandered over and asked me how long I'd been doing yoga!!!

sad times

how are you feeling today?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on December 31, 2013, 10:16:06 am
I could do with a hug and someone to whisper to me that everything's gonna be ok
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 31, 2013, 10:33:37 am
man the fuck up you bender

everything will be ok

it's ok to cry

you weren't wearing yoga pants were you?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 31, 2013, 10:58:15 am


it's ok to cry

you weren't wearing yoga pants were you?

Possibly one of "those" gyms.

Perhaps he was not wearing pants at all...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 31, 2013, 11:14:19 am
is it in the Spartacus guide book?

I thought they usually warned people if yoga was a possibility
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on January 11, 2014, 08:47:07 am
NNFN! my name-sake has been banned!

http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/horse-racing/25667933 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/horse-racing/25667933)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on January 26, 2014, 05:01:59 pm
Neighbour troubles. He went ape shit, banging on the wall, last night at 8.15 as Mrs Donkey was washing up the baby bottles in the kitchen. Went to spoke to him today in a very non-confrontational, calm and apologetic way and he just hurled abuse at me. Shitty new build houses+bat shit crazy people=Bad times :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on January 26, 2014, 06:14:43 pm
Asked to attend a meeting on Friday with several of my colleagues who are on the same pay grade with our manager. When we go in to the meeting there are 4 other managers,a guy from HR and colleagues from other teams.
We are informed that we are all at risk but not of redundancy but of organisational change, we can apply for one of 5 jobs at the same grade or one of 3 jobs at a grade lower.
Nice pay back for 27 years service.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fried on January 26, 2014, 06:42:08 pm
Bunch of bean-counting wankers. Service counts for nothing anymore.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on January 26, 2014, 06:58:27 pm
Nice pay back for 27 years service.
That's horrible, (as fried says) what a bunch of wankers.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wood FT on January 26, 2014, 07:24:02 pm
bastard, sorry to hear that Webbo
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on January 26, 2014, 07:58:04 pm
Shit man. Money worries are the pits. Hope it all works out as best it can for everyone
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on January 26, 2014, 08:28:56 pm
And where do I work. The fucking NHS.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on January 26, 2014, 10:29:20 pm
Neighbour troubles. He went ape shit, banging on the wall, last night at 8.15 as Mrs Donkey was washing up the baby bottles in the kitchen. Went to spoke to him today in a very non-confrontational, calm and apologetic way and he just hurled abuse at me. Shitty new build houses+bat shit crazy people=Bad times :thumbsdown:

Shit man, had that when I lived back in Derby and it was the worst thing, what was his beef?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 27, 2014, 09:37:17 am
Neither of the above sound fun, mine pales into comparison.

After spending xx hours (almost a full day of dry daylight hours) hanging out the bedroom window replacing all the silicon around the window frames (which I thought was the cause of the leak) and having no leaks for about 2 weeks and thinking I had cracked it, after Sunday's rain there's once again a big puddle in the garage. Puts woody construction on hold again. Reaching a point where I need to get a professional to have a look, as I'm stumped where it's getting in now.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 27, 2014, 01:09:56 pm
Neither of the above sound fun, mine pales into comparison.

After spending xx hours (almost a full day of dry daylight hours) hanging out the bedroom window replacing all the silicon around the window frames (which I thought was the cause of the leak) and having no leaks for about 2 weeks and thinking I had cracked it, after Sunday's rain there's once again a big puddle in the garage. Puts woody construction on hold again. Reaching a point where I need to get a professional to have a look, as I'm stumped where it's getting in now.

Don't underestimate the power of wind to drive water through the tiniest of gaps.. (I'm sure you dont - but here's my anecdote anyway!).

At my former (exposed hilltop) house in Aberystwyth when it was windy (and rainy) water used to be forced by the wind through the joints in the wood on the door (it was like a weeping door!) despite it being painted etc... amazing. I just gave up after various attempts at weather proofing and just stuck a towel under the door when weather was bad :)

Maybe think about some sort of poly sheet > bucket arrangement behind the woody under the leak?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 27, 2014, 01:11:10 pm
Webbo - thats f*cking shit... must make you think why bother..

AndyD - thats shit too... next house (if I can afford it) will be detached. Neighbours :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on January 27, 2014, 01:19:37 pm
AndyD - thats shit too... next house (if I can afford it) will be detached. Neighbours :(


Indeed.


I've had a) a bonkers next door neighbour go ballistic after nearly 6 months of entirely peaceful living in a mid terrace and b) a downstairs (flat) neighbour with some weird passive-aggressive thing where they'd turn their TV/music up full blast, but when I asked what the problem was in person always said there was nothing the matter.


Sadly the only way (IMO) to sort these things out is to cut your losses and move - I hated every minute of coming back to the houses above and creeping around, anxiously waiting for it to kick off again. Fortunately I was renting in both situations above so was easy to get out, must suck if you're locked into a mortgage etc.







Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on January 27, 2014, 01:40:54 pm
Asked to attend a meeting on Friday with several of my colleagues who are on the same pay grade with our manager. When we go in to the meeting there are 4 other managers,a guy from HR and colleagues from other teams.
We are informed that we are all at risk but not of redundancy but of organisational change, we can apply for one of 5 jobs at the same grade or one of 3 jobs at a grade lower.
Nice pay back for 27 years service.

Why did I read that as gay parade ?

Sounds like weasel word bollocks. If the organisational change makes your role redundant then that is by definition redundancy. If they were offering you a new role that would be a different matter.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on January 27, 2014, 02:48:35 pm
They are offering a new role at the same grade, however it will be mainly managerial rather than clinical. This role used to be at a higher grade. Most of us in the past had the chance to apply for jobs like this but choose to remain in a clinical role. If you don't want with of these jobs you can apply for a clinical post at a grade lower i.e do the same job but get paid less.
 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 27, 2014, 03:03:30 pm
Bunch of cunts.  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 27, 2014, 03:16:22 pm
So they want to retain your skills and experience, just don't want to pay you the same for it. You couldn't make it up.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 27, 2014, 04:27:36 pm
Don't underestimate the power of wind to drive water through the tiniest of gaps

Yeah, it's a bitch. Problem is our bedroom is directly over the garage and has big windows and front facing the sea - lovely for views, crap for weather.  from where the leak comes out in the garage I measured to try and find out where it was coming from, and it looked to coming from the post between the two windows, so replaced all the knackered silicone sealant around the window frames, but that hasn't fixed the problem. It's not just a drip either, I reckon a good litre plus has come through in the space of 12 hours, so need something a bit better than a bit of plastic to fix it, plus it can't be doing the wood inside the roof much good, so a long term solution is needed.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on January 27, 2014, 07:18:44 pm
Neighbour troubles. He went ape shit, banging on the wall, last night at 8.15 as Mrs Donkey was washing up the baby bottles in the kitchen. Went to spoke to him today in a very non-confrontational, calm and apologetic way and he just hurled abuse at me. Shitty new build houses+bat shit crazy people=Bad times :thumbsdown:

Shit man, had that when I lived back in Derby and it was the worst thing, what was his beef?

Reading between the lines...
Mid thirties
No job
Owns the house (inherited)
No money (no lights on, wears a coat and beanie inside)
Can't sell house
Lives in a four bed family house on his own

Add the above together and you get NOTHING GOING ON IN HIS LIFE
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on January 28, 2014, 09:49:35 am
They are offering a new role at the same grade, however it will be mainly managerial rather than clinical. This role used to be at a higher grade. Most of us in the past had the chance to apply for jobs like this but choose to remain in a clinical role. If you don't want with of these jobs you can apply for a clinical post at a grade lower i.e do the same job but get paid less.

Wow. So the "restructure" isn't anything of the sort - they are downgrading your current job. It must be worth taking advice as to whether this constitues a form of constructive dismissal.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: GCW on January 28, 2014, 09:53:33 am
Whilst it's absolutely no consolation, there are a lot of people in the NHS getting screwed exactly in this was at present.  It's crap.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 31, 2014, 10:33:01 am
THE Otley cafe is shutting on Sunday :(

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dunnies-Cafe/211749488839512 (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dunnies-Cafe/211749488839512)

No more £5 challenge

Gutted.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 31, 2014, 11:20:41 am
Gutted. A traditional day out climbing always started with a full breakfast to clear the hangover and paging the old YMC brick, arguing about where to go. Usually deciding on Almscliff by lunchtime.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 31, 2014, 11:24:03 am
Gutted. A traditional day out climbing always started with a full breakfast to clear the hangover and paging the old YMC brick, arguing about where to go. Usually deciding on Almscliff by lunchtime.

Yup. When I first went there (92) full brekky was £2.. I think it only went up to £3.50  (from £3) a couple of years ago..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on January 31, 2014, 11:31:38 am



THE Otley cafe is shutting on Sunday :(


Yup. When I first went there (92) full brekky was £2.. I think it only went up to £3.50  (from £3) a couple of years ago..


Now I'm no economist, but I'm assuming the two statements above may be connected...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 31, 2014, 11:35:50 am
Nothing to do with it, others want the land.

http://www.thetelegraphandargus.co.uk/news/10833740.Fresh_bid_to_save____Dunnies____cafe_landmark_in_Otley/ (http://www.thetelegraphandargus.co.uk/news/10833740.Fresh_bid_to_save____Dunnies____cafe_landmark_in_Otley/)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on January 31, 2014, 11:45:43 am
No!!!

I have fond memories of the winter trek across from the South Lakes, in our quest for some dry rock, anything, anywhere. Inevitably we'd end up at Almscliffe just as the heavens opened once again. A couple of hours huddling under a overhang, hoping for a brief weather window would presage our retreat to the cafe in Otley. The cheap white bread covered with marg somehow made it all seem worthwhile.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 31, 2014, 12:35:04 pm
No!!!

I have fond memories of the winter trek across from the South Lakes, in our quest for some dry rock, anything, anywhere. Inevitably we'd end up at Almscliffe just as the heavens opened once again. A couple of hours huddling under a overhang, hoping for a brief weather window would presage our retreat to the cafe in Otley. The cheap white bread covered with marg somehow made it all seem worthwhile.

We used to have the £5 challenge - to eat £5 worth of food. The only stipulation was that it had to include a main course and a desert (the killer) - as well as the bread and butter that came with everything...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on January 31, 2014, 12:37:52 pm
I have never been  :-[ just had TT tell me stories of epic breakfasts

Fancy a trip tomorrow TT or TTT?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on February 01, 2014, 09:57:56 am
 So got a free pass to the peak without wife and kids this afternoon, the weather looks cold and dry....and I've stood on a nail this morning that's torn a great big hole in my heel. Can't put any weight on it. Arse!
Hopefully I might be able to stand on it tomorrow and the rain holds off.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 01, 2014, 10:03:50 am
heels are out for most of Peak grit anyway

 ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 01, 2014, 06:12:33 pm
Saville's patronage can't have helped!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on February 01, 2014, 10:20:26 pm
Now that's a good name for a problem!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigironhorse on February 02, 2014, 08:12:18 pm
Tore an A2 pulley warming up on banana finger today.... NNFN
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 03, 2014, 10:52:44 am
Strangely appropriate route choice! :)

Good luck with healing.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Eth on February 08, 2014, 07:11:14 pm
Had some enjoyable sessions last year cleaning up and doing some nice new problems at a new beach venue 10mins from home. Took the dogs for a run down there this morn only to discover the boulder is now buried under about 200 tons of cliff  :o
Only had one project left too....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AMorris on February 08, 2014, 09:58:35 pm
Went down to Dinas Rock today (first visit) hoping to get on a few problems on kennelgarth but it was subject to a fair bit of seepage. Disappointed I wondered over to the main face where the river was overflowing up to the rock, removing any chance of trying boy racer. The cave looked good though so tried a few unlogged problems on the slab and started to feel like the trip was worthwhile, then I found the cave project... I spent the next hour getting closer and closer to the first move before finally sticking it, realising the second move was solid, and getting the sequence for the next few moves. Feeling smug that I made some progress on something hard (and dry) I wondered back down the steep hill towards the car park whereupon I slipped on a rock straight onto my back (boulder pad came into its own at that point) and bounced my elbow off a sharp rock leaving me with a gash, a few grazes and alot of swelling a bruising... definitely a NNFN moment
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 12, 2014, 03:50:54 pm
What a shi**y day at work today.
A few months ago, a girl came to the law firm, having just returned from the Police office, where she had reported she had undergone a sexual violence from her "boyfriend".
We started searching to find out the number of the case, who was going to be the public accusation, etc. to prepare everything. But nothing. Weeks, then months passed without any news.
When we told her, she said "No wonder, he's going to get away with it, because he's a police informer and they protect him."
We replied that it wasn't possible, that it was unreal and so on.
Today we found out that the public accusation dismissed the case because "unfounded".
Motherfuckers.
Luckily this made me so angry that it fuelled a sprint, weighted hangs and front lever pulls lunch-break session that left me still angry, but at least tired.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Seb on February 16, 2014, 08:36:29 pm
Nibile thats horrific.

Today I filled my diesel up with 30L of petrol. Such a huge huge idiot.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 16, 2014, 09:22:14 pm
Shit. Did you drive it or realise in time? (Btw C.10% diesel in a petrol car makes it smokey but functional!)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Seb on February 16, 2014, 09:33:32 pm
I drove it  :shit: Hoping the fuel pump isnt broken which ive heard can happen. Im going to try and drain the tank, fill it with some diesel and see what happens. Fingers crossed, I have no money to fix thing if its fucked.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 17, 2014, 09:00:01 am
Been there! In my ancient Espace. Garage drained tank, flushed fuel system, and said keep it topped up for the first few weeks so petrol is diluted down, was a bit juddery for a day or two, but came right and fuel pump survived. Expensive mistake!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on February 17, 2014, 09:36:07 am
Im going to try and drain the tank
Take it easy, large amounts of petrol is not something to piss about with. The AA and others have special vans for this kind of thing. I know its highly annoying and you say your short of cash but I'd be tempted to get the pros to sort it and write it off to experience.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 17, 2014, 10:17:00 am
Definitely. You could end up with an even larger bill!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on February 22, 2014, 12:37:27 am
http://youtu.be/RNBQlnwjvqI (http://youtu.be/RNBQlnwjvqI)

http://youtu.be/Q09AuLR4BWM (http://youtu.be/Q09AuLR4BWM)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wood FT on February 22, 2014, 12:42:27 am
I couldnt give a monkeys about the ladder, thats real heart ache, c'mon! next time
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 22, 2014, 08:21:16 am
Shark- - that was sooo close :(

Shirley just a matter of time?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 22, 2014, 08:43:15 am
is that first video private because it features controversial ladder aid?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on February 22, 2014, 09:24:53 am
is that first video private because it features controversial ladder aid?

no -  because I was pissed uploading it   :-[
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 22, 2014, 09:29:35 am
an excellent coping strategy
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: davej on February 22, 2014, 11:59:44 am
carnt get any closer and not do it!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 22, 2014, 12:03:13 pm
Oh yes you can!

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8101.msg438337.html#msg438337 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8101.msg438337.html#msg438337)

 ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 22, 2014, 12:04:07 pm
 :clap2:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 22, 2014, 12:09:34 pm
:) do we need a yes yes fucking no! Thread?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 22, 2014, 12:16:13 pm
We could use it to document this contest between you and shark to see who can fail the highest.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 22, 2014, 12:25:45 pm
Or No No Fucking Yes for when Shark finally tops out in a few years time and then no-one allows him the tick because of the ladder debacle.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 22, 2014, 01:49:32 pm

We could use it to document this contest between you and shark to see who can fail the highest.

Are you suggesting that he's better at failing than me? Thems fighting words! ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 22, 2014, 02:22:21 pm
No clearly you're winning on the failing stakes but shark is miles ahead in the laughing stock contest.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 22, 2014, 07:55:31 pm
That's a stiff sequence Shark, worth 7c of anyone's money. You know you can static to the lower break to avoid the pop?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on February 22, 2014, 08:14:37 pm
That's a stiff sequence Shark, worth 7c of anyone's money. You know you can static to the lower break to avoid the pop?

That's what Rob Napier did. Are my feet in the right place to do it statically?

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 22, 2014, 08:51:06 pm
3 sessions, in ten days. 20 times each day.. Same fail..

I  Gave up climbing for 3 years and bought a bike..  ( that's when i left UKB too)

I SOOO feel your pain mate..

So hope it comes good for you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 22, 2014, 10:16:06 pm

That's what Rob Napier did. Are my feet in the right place to do it statically?


There is a slightly better right foot slightly higher, and a much better left well left. But you're on the 'normal' feet for the old pebble sequence.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nigel on February 22, 2014, 11:10:21 pm
I rate getting the crimp below the jug first too. No dynamics required. No point start jumping for shit Shark, very undignified.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on February 23, 2014, 12:08:44 pm
I rate getting the crimp below the jug first too. No dynamics required. No point start jumping for shit Shark, very undignified.

Especially for a sport climber... Show some decorum Shark ffs
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on February 23, 2014, 12:16:38 pm
I rate getting the crimp below the jug first too. No dynamics required. No point start jumping for shit Shark, very undignified.

Especially for a sport climber... Show some decorum Shark ffs

Just trying to fit in - I thought that's what you boulderers did. Will resort to type

As for dignity and decorum I think that's well beyond recovery.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Kingy on February 23, 2014, 08:46:11 pm
Looking good! Yes I used the crimp below the jug when I first did it. Shark the boulderer!  :clap2:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 24, 2014, 08:51:17 am
Never get too blase about climbing over barbed wire fences. The trousers were on their way out anyway (were my favourites once :( ) and the wounds will heal. Nice bit of bouldering though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on March 02, 2014, 08:23:55 am
First groundfall outside yesterday, so sat in bed with a tweaked left ankle and the other heel well sore rather than still being up in the Peak climbing. Could have been worse I guess but bruised heels and me take a while to heal.

1 - learn to jam, learn to jam, learn to jam but not on lead

2 - less rope out and near the wall belaying in future

3 - learn to jam
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on March 06, 2014, 06:50:05 pm
I'm working in the Paris region, bust a gut to get finished so I can get time to go to Font, manage to get free at lunchtime today and then knacker a tendon in my wrist on the first problem of the day.
I could fucking scream. :'( :'( >:(

crimping is actually ok, but clenching my fist, then moving sideways is agony.
No idea what I've done, but it doesn't feel good.
See what it's like in the morning I guess. ferry not till late....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 06, 2014, 07:09:21 pm
I'm working in the Paris region, bust a gut to get finished so I can get time to go to Font, manage to get free at lunchtime today and then knacker a tendon in my wrist on the first problem of the day.
I could fucking scream. :'( :'( >:(

crimping is actually ok, but clenching my fist, then moving sideways is agony.
No idea what I've done, but it doesn't feel good.
See what it's like in the morning I guess. ferry not till late....

I've tweaked stuff in my wrist before and its cleared up pretty quick.. though sounds like yours is pretty painful :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 07, 2014, 12:35:32 pm
I'm working in the Paris region, bust a gut to get finished so I can get time to go to Font, manage to get free at lunchtime today and then knacker a tendon in my wrist on the first problem of the day.
I could fucking scream. :'( :'( >:(

crimping is actually ok, but clenching my fist, then moving sideways is agony.
No idea what I've done, but it doesn't feel good.
See what it's like in the morning I guess. ferry not till late....

I did something like that: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23632.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23632.0.html) , got one reply but that reply doesn't sound that similar (i.e. I get general pain not sharp ones).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: pyrosis on March 07, 2014, 01:44:53 pm
Crazy mid back spasm halfway through my workout yesterday, just lateral to the spine and just below the shoulder blades. Continuing my campus training didn't seem to make it worse, it hurt like hell regardless of training or not, so I continued. Anyway today feels like a knife in my back, catchy and worsened with deep breathing or certain movements. Any advices?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 07, 2014, 01:48:58 pm
Go see a specialist.

I have a muscle between my shoulderblades that goes a couple of times a year. Usually very painful at first, then I normally rest it for a day or two, then a climbing session seems to fix it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on March 07, 2014, 02:53:07 pm
Something similar happened to me scraping the windscreen on Boxing Day. Had to take it easy for 2 weeks in my case
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rginns on March 07, 2014, 03:00:28 pm
I'm working in the Paris region, bust a gut to get finished so I can get time to go to Font, manage to get free at lunchtime today and then knacker a tendon in my wrist on the first problem of the day.
I could fucking scream. :'( :'( >:(

crimping is actually ok, but clenching my fist, then moving sideways is agony.
No idea what I've done, but it doesn't feel good.
See what it's like in the morning I guess. ferry not till late....

I did something like that: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23632.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23632.0.html) , got one reply but that reply doesn't sound that similar (i.e. I get general pain not sharp ones).
Thanks Fiend
Needless to say it's still buggered. So as to not be  :off: I'll reply on the other thread
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on March 07, 2014, 07:50:22 pm
Neighbour troubles. He went ape shit, banging on the wall, last night at 8.15 as Mrs Donkey was washing up the baby bottles in the kitchen. Went to spoke to him today in a very non-confrontational, calm and apologetic way and he just hurled abuse at me. Shitty new build houses+bat shit crazy people=Bad times :thumbsdown:

Puncture on way to work on Tuesday. Turns out it was a Stanley knife blade buried in the tyre...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: blacky on March 07, 2014, 08:08:41 pm
Knob jockey. Hope you told the cops?!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on March 07, 2014, 08:29:29 pm
Neighbour troubles. He went ape shit, banging on the wall, last night at 8.15 as Mrs Donkey was washing up the baby bottles in the kitchen. Went to spoke to him today in a very non-confrontational, calm and apologetic way and he just hurled abuse at me. Shitty new build houses+bat shit crazy people=Bad times :thumbsdown:

Puncture on way to work on Tuesday. Turns out it was a Stanley knife blade buried in the tyre...

Tried to send this as a pm but you've blocked me, so here we go. It took me a moment to realise why and then the D dropped.

Stuff like that can be a pain and very difficult to resolve, one way of dealing with it is to find out if the neighbour is renting and use their landlord as the leverage, all you need to know is the neighbour's name and the address & postcode (which should be straightforward  ;) and then check on the  Land Registry for the owner, who can always be contacted via the lender (also listed on LR).

If you can't sort this yourself drop me a pm with details and I'll get my property dept to do it.

If they own the place, good luck. :wall:

Just be careful about escalating the tension, I used to see all sorts of horrible shit arising from non issues between neighbours when I worked for the old bill.

The advice stands but you can sort it our yourself.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on March 07, 2014, 08:38:11 pm
Would installing some discreet but not that discreet CCTV cameras help or just escalate things further?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on March 07, 2014, 08:49:07 pm
Escalate things further, lead to complaints of harassment (init) breach of human rights, perving at the kids etc, in situations like this the police will be useless, the only hope is that the landlord doesn't want the hassle and tells them to f--k off.

But then the lefty would say it's all society / Thatcher's fault eh :-*
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cjsheps on March 07, 2014, 09:03:20 pm
Think I fractured my coccyx two weeks ago after coming off a problem and missing a pad. I've been very limited in terms of the training I can do, as even on the campus board, any movement involving a lower body "initiation" is painful. After two weeks of fingerboard and limited campussing, it doesn't seem to be getting better. NNFN.  :'(

Does anyone have any words of wisdom for me please? I've been reluctant to stop training entirely, as I've been making great gains recently and the weather's just starting to get nicer.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 07, 2014, 09:03:44 pm
Shit Andy that's rubbish.

He's a bully and that makes me want to teach him a lesson - so god knows how you must feel! If you've not done this already I'd write down every incident in a diary/logbook - and update it. Its not the same as having things on film but does provide a record for the old bill/council etc..

Bubba has a point - in that a sneakily placed cctv (in an upstairs window with a good view) might provide some evidence - but you've got to then be prepared to use it.

I hope they're renting - as Sloper said - at least then you have some leverage/point of call against the landlord (who may not give a shit - but probably doesnt want a wanker living in their house though..)...

:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on March 07, 2014, 09:43:26 pm
I've got no evidence. He owns the place and I rent. He's tried to sell and he can't as four bed town houses are going up all over in our area. He's a single guy, mid 30s who own the place outright. He hasn't been to work in 15 months and I'm guessing he feels pretty trapped in his (shitty) existence.

Sloper is right(!) as I've got nothing to gain from even talking to the guy. I might look at some discreet CCTV motion sensor thing if anything suspect happens again. It bothers me that he'd interfere with a car that I drive two kids around in. I guess for now I need to be content in the belief that his world's a whole lot less happy than mine...

Blacky. Spot on. Not called the fuzz yet as the folks are over. I reckon we'd take him though if you're up for it? :boxing:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on March 08, 2014, 08:29:25 pm
It's basically sport season again and I got out today on the Orme in full hope of ticking something. Got powered out beyond belief over and over again... So much for the winter training!

Should I just become a boulderer? It seems like less hassle!  ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 10, 2014, 09:05:57 am
Think I fractured my coccyx two weeks ago after coming off a problem and missing a pad. I've been very limited in terms of the training I can do, as even on the campus board, any movement involving a lower body "initiation" is painful. After two weeks of fingerboard and limited campussing, it doesn't seem to be getting better. NNFN.  :'(

Does anyone have any words of wisdom for me please? I've been reluctant to stop training entirely, as I've been making great gains recently and the weather's just starting to get nicer.

Go see a professional, get it X-Rayed and confirm at least. COuld just be badly bruised.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on March 24, 2014, 09:32:03 pm
Doh - Finally catch the small edge, foot pops and I jaw plant on the large hold below on another problem. One chipped tooth and a tongue clean bitten through.

I hate salt water in my mouth.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on March 24, 2014, 09:41:57 pm
Ouch
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 31, 2014, 10:10:01 am
Week of holdiay - youngest shows first sign of chickenpox on the Saturday morning! Week of very unhappy child. At least it was Aviemore not a couple of grand on the ski trip to the Alps we were planning.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Schnell on April 14, 2014, 10:12:57 am
Three weeks spent being very delicate with injured finger and then I reinjure it worse by far than the original tweak, worst thing being that I injured it at work, not even while climbing. Summer season is fast approaching and I have barely trained since Christmas with assorted aches and pains.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 14, 2014, 10:18:28 am
Snapped the middle bit out of the locking nut on one wheel while changing out winter tyres yesterday. Any ideas how to remove it now??
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on April 14, 2014, 12:22:17 pm
Snapped the middle bit out of the locking nut on one wheel while changing out winter tyres yesterday. Any ideas how to remove it now??
Did exactly this last year, broke 3 out of 4 as the 'key' had warped. After being turned away at the usual tyre places then trying and failing to DIY it with these (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_196491_langId_-1_categoryId_255216)  (don't bother, waste of time and money) asked around for a local specialist garage/motor engineer, in Sheffield this was a local garage with a good reputation for solving problems.

Cost me around £40.

I had only continued to use the locking ones as they were on the car already, didn't occur to me no-one would ever nick my piece of shit knackered alloys.

(I think I still have the 'removers', I did actually manage to get one off with them after a lot of effort. Mind you it was the outside of mine that had broken so it had less surface to grip. If you want to give them a go I can send you some)

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Ally Smith on April 14, 2014, 01:39:53 pm
2nd day of Oliana holiday and physio member of the team is now convinced my dodgy shoulder isn't an imbalance/impingement but instead a SLAP lesion - bugger, bugger, bugger

7 days remaining, should I

A - Up the vitamin I dose, hope conditions come good and get lucky with Fisheye?
B - Up the vitamin I dose and get a compensation 8a+ tick?
C - Sack it off, do nothing/easy climbing/belaying?

C is the "sensible" option for longterm shoulder health, but is bloody boring, especially when you've sunk a winters worth of training and two reconnaissance trips into ticking your first 8c  :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: abarro81 on April 14, 2014, 01:56:06 pm
Well B seems like a shit option - you don't get to try fisheye, and you injure yourself more... so it's A or C. Knowing nothing about shoulders I can't comment.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 14, 2014, 02:33:09 pm
Snapped the middle bit out of the locking nut on one wheel while changing out winter tyres yesterday. Any ideas how to remove it now??
Did exactly this last year, broke 3 out of 4 as the 'key' had warped. After being turned away at the usual tyre places then trying and failing to DIY it with these (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_196491_langId_-1_categoryId_255216)  (don't bother, waste of time and money) asked around for a local specialist garage/motor engineer, in Sheffield this was a local garage with a good reputation for solving problems.

Cost me around £40.

I had only continued to use the locking ones as they were on the car already, didn't occur to me no-one would ever nick my piece of shit knackered alloys.

(I think I still have the 'removers', I did actually manage to get one off with them after a lot of effort. Mind you it was the outside of mine that had broken so it had less surface to grip. If you want to give them a go I can send you some)

Cheers for the info. It's in for a service tomorrow with a fairly good local garage, will see if they can do anything, if not I might have shot with that thing. There's quite a lot of nut sticking out, it's only the little bit in the middle that fell out. I might get shot of the others too, TBH, the aloys are in a bit of a state, nicking them would be doing me a favour.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 15, 2014, 08:00:07 am
After training for 8 months, I fucked up my left knee four days before going to try my project route.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 15, 2014, 10:02:19 am
 :sick:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 15, 2014, 10:10:45 am
Nibs :( Fucked, badly hurt or tweaked?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 15, 2014, 10:14:42 am
SA Chris. Best take it to the garage (as you've done) they'll probably drill out the centre of the nut and try to use an 'easy out' which is like a reverse threaded self tapping screw.. it can for sure be done, but can be awkward/messy. I've done it with shared bolts in Engine blocks where theres much less room for error (and the bolt is much smaller!).

Part of the problem with these locking nuts is that often tyre fitting places wizz up ALL the bolts with the air gun - where these should really be hand tightened and not up to the full bolt torque.. (many say that for all bolts on Alloys they should all be hand tightened and torqued for the final bit).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 15, 2014, 10:31:12 am
Nibs :( Fucked, badly hurt or tweaked?
I don't think it's anything serious like a ligament or the likes, but it's swollen, painful, and I can't flex it or extend it. It hurts on the inside, more or left in the middle of the joint, maybe meniscus.
I've put on antiinflammatory patches now, and will apply ice later on. Obviously having to stand in a queue in the Court of Justice for the whole morning did not help much.
Still four days to recover though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 15, 2014, 10:33:40 am
SA Chris. Best take it to the garage (as you've done) they'll probably drill out the centre of the nut and try to use an 'easy out' which is like a reverse threaded self tapping screw.. it can for sure be done, but can be awkward/messy. I've done it with shared bolts in Engine blocks where theres much less room for error (and the bolt is much smaller!).

Part of the problem with these locking nuts is that often tyre fitting places wizz up ALL the bolts with the air gun - where these should really be hand tightened and not up to the full bolt torque.. (many say that for all bolts on Alloys they should all be hand tightened and torqued for the final bit).

Must admit after changing 4 wheels by myself, I was tightening them using (my not insubstantial) bodyweight on the wheel spanner, which may have been a bit excessive. Anyway, the garage said they would have a look and should be able to sort it out while servicing.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 16, 2014, 05:27:36 am
4:51am and I'm lying in bed fuming and (if honest) scared.
For the second time in less than a year I've been beaten up outside my own front door, by complete strangers.
Last Halloween a bunch of drunken twats tried to attack our elderly neighbour when he protested at them holding a party in the road outside our houses. I intervened and though I probably did far more damage to them, I earned a black eye for my troubles. Oddly enough from a girl dressed as Alice in Wonderland, to whom, I declined to return the favour.

Tonight, we were disturbed by voices at the front of the house and while Polly looked out of the window, I went down (in PJs and slippers) to see what was wrong.
I was expecting a couple of people.
There were at least six, standing in the drive and Polly shouted down "there's more in the car port!"
I turned to look, saw the glow of a mobile and was punched in the back of the head. I may have told them to fuck off, just before that, bit fuzzy on that.

Everything after that was equally fuzzy. My glasses were knocked off very quickly, so essentially I was blind.
I managed to grab one who came too close. Put him in a headlock and between me and them with my back against a car. Which unfortunately left my face unprotected and hands occupied. They started  punching and kicking me (think I was on my knees at that point). So I shouted that I'd break their mates neck if they didn't back off. I got up holding him and they backed away a little.

At which point I made my second mistake (number one being opening the front door, but who knew?)and let go of the shit.
This was apparently an invitation to start again.

They were kids.

Aged 14 to 16!

They were filming it!

They were threatening to kill/rape Polly and the kids (by now crying on the doorstep), burn down the house etc etc.

The police nabbed two of them. Who gave it a lot of " I'm 14! You can touch me!".

And they caught the girl, who'd been the one with the phone; filming in the car port.

Why?

I end up being stitched by a Paramedic (only two, on an elbow) in front of my five year old daughter. I'm black and blue and twisted a knee so badly stairs are a major problem.
For some kids to film!
And what's next?
A couple are in custody. Will the rest want revenge?
Wankers!
We were just picked at random!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 16, 2014, 05:43:28 am
Sorry to hear that Matt. That's just fucked up
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 16, 2014, 07:10:09 am
That's just horrible Matt, beyond belief.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2014, 07:16:35 am
That's just awful sorry to hear that.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on April 16, 2014, 07:31:42 am
Thats fucking terrible.  :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on April 16, 2014, 07:50:18 am
That is a worry - you'll heal no doubt Matt but it's the ongoing stress that's the hard part.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mini on April 16, 2014, 08:08:56 am
That's horrendous!

"I'm 14! You can touch me!" - lock them away and their parents for not being proper guardians!

Hope you and your family heal soon.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 16, 2014, 08:18:37 am
Not good Matt.

If they were local yoofs knocking on random doors to pick on someone then I suspect they got far more than they bargained for when you opened the door... I doubt you'll get a return visit.

If the old bill got the filmers video then they'll all get nailed for this.. and deservedly so..

What the f*cks wrong with this world....

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on April 16, 2014, 08:21:01 am
Shit. That's fucking awful. What is wrong with people.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 16, 2014, 08:30:05 am
That's insane!
Hope you heal up quick.

Just shocked...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on April 16, 2014, 08:57:15 am
That's f**ked up Matt, get better soon. I'd be tempted to put some big arse IR floodlights on the front of your property, they are quite an effective deterrent for scroats.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on April 16, 2014, 09:41:26 am
That's horrible mate. What a bunch of complete scumbags. Take solice in the fact that once the dust has settled you're a good man with a lovely family. Those kids must have f*** all going for them if that's what they're up to in the middle of the night. Really sorry that's happened.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on April 16, 2014, 09:47:07 am
What a set of twats, as a random act it could happen to anyone. Hope you recover quickly and the family manage to forget it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on April 16, 2014, 09:58:29 am
Get well soon Matt - what a bunch of cunts!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 16, 2014, 10:21:18 am
Horrible, Matt.
Heal soon.
Really, what's wrong with these guys? Where are their parents?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2014, 10:33:30 am
Maybe a couple of teargas cannisters would be worth keeping by the front door for potential future "issues". Once you've been on the receiving end of that stuff you stay well clear.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on April 16, 2014, 11:09:38 am
Maybe a couple of teargas cannisters would be worth keeping by the front door for potential future "issues". Once you've been on the receiving end of that stuff you stay well clear.
not sure of the legality of that stuff, the last thing you want is to get in trouble yourself, a handy water hose might be better!

I'd ask who your local community support officer/crime prevention officer is, get to know them, ask their advice, see if they can increase patrols on your road, etc etc. Chances are they'll already know the scroats and their families.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2014, 11:31:47 am
Pepper spray or mace then. Has the desired effect regardless.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2014, 11:35:29 am
Snapped the middle bit out of the locking nut on one wheel while changing out winter tyres yesterday. Any ideas how to remove it now??

Garage got it out and recommended taking other 3 out too, as said the key was badly worn (no doubt from airgun use) so getting some ordinary ones in. Cheers for the help.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on April 16, 2014, 11:52:14 am

Maybe a couple of teargas cannisters would be worth keeping by the front door for potential future "issues". Once you've been on the receiving end of that stuff you stay well clear.
Pepper spray or mace then. Has the desired effect regardless.
[/s]
Call the police and stay inside. The fuckers know where you live. Let all the wrong doing be on their side
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2014, 11:54:49 am
OK. Stay inside. Just shoot them with paintballs out the window :)

I'm joking, of course what you say is the correct advice, but it's unlikely the police will react quickly enough to catch them. Maybe a CCTV camera?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 16, 2014, 12:33:19 pm
Stay inside, take pics and vids. Call the Police.
From what you've written, there are at least two or three major crimes in their actions, enough to give them and their parents a lesson they will remember.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 16, 2014, 01:04:10 pm
After a morning of giving statements, I mainly feel like a middle aged man, who got beaten up by a bunch of kids and really wish I'd stayed indoors and called the police.
I kept thinking " I can't hit them, someone will get killed"... "If you hit back you'll be the one in the cack".
They were just too dumb to realise.
And have just realised how long this is going to go on. Waiting for charging decisions, trial dates, facing some bastard defence lawyer (sorry Sloper, I know it's just a job and important) and Polly facing the same.
Never thought I would, but I understand why people let it go.

Thanks for the good wishes.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 17, 2014, 09:59:39 am
Ok... I was alerted to some posts on the public Facebook forum "Spotted Torquay" by a friend. And found this:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/oldmanmatt/13909171933/

To the Leagle Eagles on here, do I have to accept this harassment?
Since he posted it publicly, is it fair for me to share/comment?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on April 17, 2014, 10:16:49 am
Don't reply. Show the police, he's admitted guilt there.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 17, 2014, 10:36:08 am
Yup. Admission on a public forum, go straight to the police.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 17, 2014, 10:41:22 am
Yeah show the rozzers. What a fucking retard.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Snoops on April 17, 2014, 11:07:08 am
Get some screen shots of it now as well.

Edit - didn't realise that was a link to an actual screenshot. I'll get my coat! Sorry you have to deal with these pricks.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on April 17, 2014, 11:40:40 am
What a twat, definitely report to the police.

He's got some diverse 'other' interests (http://www.donotlink.com/guO).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatneck on April 17, 2014, 11:47:20 am
Desperately want to post on his page...... Must. Resist....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 17, 2014, 11:57:46 am
Report to the Police. Do not reply.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on April 17, 2014, 05:58:54 pm
Can I suggest a mod changes Slackers link to a tiny url or similar to avoid a Google of his name pulling up this thread? Probably not a big risk but would be nice to keep this a scroat free zone.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 17, 2014, 06:44:54 pm
Sorry to read about this experience OMM, that's awful. Interesting comment by Nadine on that screenshot, no doubt you've picked up on it.
Hope it all resolves itself ok.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on April 17, 2014, 08:50:06 pm
 Once you find out who it is it must be really hard not to just go and kick the fuck out of the tool. 
I quite fancy a trip to the south coast after just reading his Facebook page.
Karma will hopefully deal with him, definately pursue it through the courts Mat.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on April 17, 2014, 09:08:39 pm
Done. Though ... anyone know whether that actually works as intended ... ie hide the underlying URL from a search?
I don't think using http://goo.gl/ (http://goo.gl/) does - search engines will still follow the shortened link and the target page will be associated with this forum.

I've changed it to use http://www.donotlink.com/ (http://www.donotlink.com/) which (from some quick research) I believe prevents this.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on May 08, 2014, 01:12:49 pm
First fine on the bike....
$236 for not having an L plate on. It had snapped off and I was actually doing 30km over... Nice cop let me off for that as I would've lost my licence on the spot!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 08, 2014, 01:40:29 pm
Sorry to hear that!
On the other hand, think yourself lucky that your bike rides normally! Mine is giving me some troubles, damn 2 stroke engines... The previous owner changed the jets and min/max settings of the carburetor, so I had to take it to the doctor's for the second time in two weeks...
Hoping that it's just the carburetor and not something else...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 08, 2014, 01:48:19 pm
2stroke = trouble + fun
4stroke = less trouble + less fun

:)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 08, 2014, 02:05:22 pm
Exactly!!!  ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on May 08, 2014, 02:09:44 pm
Na...
2 stroke = Quick of the mark and lots of noise.
4 stroke = Still pretty fucking quick off the mark, slightly quieter and quicker top speed...

:D

Hope you get it sorted soon though! Does sound like its the carb if he just fiddled with the jets...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 14, 2014, 11:12:49 am
A minor nnfn.

Not got out since last Wednesday - and just pulled up at Curbar only to realise all my mats are not in the car but back in Manchester.

Back around...

(It's a bit damp anyway ;) )
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on May 14, 2014, 11:14:34 am
Did you forget your beer towel too?

(http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/muDA85KgloDvMQO5p0Pfmkw.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 14, 2014, 12:33:20 pm
Yup :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 14, 2014, 01:22:22 pm
Amazing how we all used to cope fine without pads circa ten years ago. We've got soft.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 14, 2014, 01:38:14 pm
Ten years? More like 20! And yes, that's because we now break when he hit the ground instead of bouncing.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 14, 2014, 02:41:13 pm
Yup. I'm not young any more. It was pretty wet underfoot and the only towel substitute I had in the car was my down jacket. Decided against it. Anyway - now out at Hobby moor. Amongst the broken glass and school parties... ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 14, 2014, 02:47:10 pm
Ten years? More like 20! And yes, that's because we now break when he hit the ground instead of bouncing.

You break even with a pad :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 14, 2014, 03:00:27 pm
Yeah it helps if you land with both feet on them.

I'm not complaining though. Smashing my heel to bits has turned out to be one of the luckiest things I've ever done.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 14, 2014, 03:02:17 pm
yeah, guess it could have been both heels.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 19, 2014, 01:35:34 pm
Today I booked an MR to assess the damage I did to my knee, with the National Health Service.
I'll have it on August the 29th. At 9 am.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 19, 2014, 02:41:27 pm
Hope its nothing too serious beast!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 19, 2014, 02:56:21 pm
Hope its nothing too serious beast!

+1

(who needs footwork anyway! ;) )
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 19, 2014, 03:13:22 pm
Cheers guys! It seems that I'll have to look for some private doctor if I want to do it sooner...
Extension is ok but flexion is not, and the more flexed it is, the less power I can apply.
Anyway, I'll be serious for a change: I like to blog about not needing rock, being happy with just training, and that's true, but because it's been a choice, so far. Now the idea of not being able to run uphill sprints, or to jump off from a 2 meters tall boulder while terrified by the topout, or to heel-hook my way up a project, really makes myself uncomfortable.
Now, where's my bicep curl bar?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 19, 2014, 03:20:09 pm
Traversing... it becomes more and more attractive the older and less repairable you become!
(I bet Shark has reconstructed the eatswood traverse in his new house extension...)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on May 19, 2014, 03:35:15 pm
Traversing... it becomes more and more attractive the older and less repairable you become!
(I bet Shark has reconstructed the eatswood traverse in his new house extension...)
I don't know that looks pretty high
(http://static.squarespace.com/static/51bba160e4b092e6df775a4f/t/52d6f4e3e4b0cca896980707/1389819109289/wagnerb-Still-16.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 24, 2014, 11:51:21 am

Ok... I was alerted to some posts on the public Facebook forum "Spotted Torquay" by a friend. And found this:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/oldmanmatt/13909171933/

To the Leagle Eagles on here, do I have to accept this harassment?
Since he posted it publicly, is it fair for me to share/comment?

So... Young mister B, plead guilty and was given a 10 month referral order and ordered to pay me £250 compensation + costs+£50 fine.

And then promptly moved to the Rep. of Ireland, to live with an Aunt, to avoid his sentence...

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 24, 2014, 12:01:24 pm
Good fucking riddance.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on May 24, 2014, 01:45:19 pm
Bit of a NNFN, came off my bike yesterday...

Had just picked it up from getting a service and new front tyre. First fucking roundabout I got to, the front slid out at about 40kmh. Mashed my knee into the road and I followed the bike head first into the gutter on my arse, managing to avoid hitting my head and stopped my slide.

Chewed through the knee of kevlar jeans but the arse is in better shape than expected! Armoured leather jacket, boots and gloves took abit of a beating but are all fine. My knee is pretty sore and stiff with some deep road rash.

Damage to the bike is mainly cosmetic thankfully. Couple of parts needed to make it rideable again then its all just fairing replacement. Hopefully have it back on the road within a few weeks. Already ordering replacement parts from the states...

Here's some photos from the side of the road after I wheeled it off (couldn't start it).

(http://i.imgur.com/r4GpsPR.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/tqmjuqO.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 24, 2014, 02:15:51 pm
I'm glad you're ok.
Brand new tires are as dangerous as rotten ones!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andybfreeman on May 26, 2014, 02:50:40 am
Shit Jack!glad you're ok though
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 26, 2014, 09:45:34 am
Unlucky mate. Friend of mine did almost exactly the same thing on his Bandit.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 26, 2014, 04:38:13 pm
School just called, I'll have to teach the entire weekend for the upcoming exams of next week. It was a long weekend, due to a national holiday on Monday, and I had planned to go and crush 6b's in Ticino. Crash pads booked, friends, etc. and obviously I have to cancel everything. Just for money. What have I become...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 26, 2014, 04:41:48 pm
A guy that has to work for a living?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 26, 2014, 05:04:34 pm
A guy that has to work WEEKENDS ALSO for a living?
;D
But yes, after all it's just that.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: abarro81 on May 26, 2014, 05:20:04 pm
Say no. Go to Ticino.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 26, 2014, 05:27:21 pm
Cheers Alex, I just can't say no. I need money.
Also, saying no now could mean losing work in the future... There are tons of teachers in desperate search for schools and hours to teach...
Let's say it's an investment for the future.
Those 6b's will have to wait.
 :devangel:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: abarro81 on May 26, 2014, 05:47:47 pm
Bugger. Just wait til you're a big shot lawyer representing Berlusconi, then you can say no. But not to the drugs and girls, obviously.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 26, 2014, 05:56:01 pm
 :o
I don't think it's a coincindence that some of his lawyers went to jail... One of his sercretaries was found - and arrested - at the airport with 24 kilos of cocaine in her suitcase. Smart girl.
I''d be the first lawyer to actively push for his client to be claimed guilty!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Dolly on May 26, 2014, 11:38:39 pm
So the family are away from tomorrow until I join them at the weekend. That was 3 evenings of potential climbing booked in. I was planning to climb straight from work until it was dark then drink beer/eat chips/salad. But the forecast is fucking Marti Pellows band. WTFF. NNFN.


PS Yes I will go to the tor/ride my bike if need be Shark/Norton respectively
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 27, 2014, 01:18:02 am
Good slang generation there Dolly. 'Its fucking pellows out there' :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on May 27, 2014, 11:57:36 am
I really like Berlusconi
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 04, 2014, 04:43:25 pm
Just had to spend a couple of hours on a plane sat next to a guy that's the spitting image of sloper
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on June 04, 2014, 05:23:19 pm
I wonder who you reminded him off? the bastard progeny of Yul Bryner and Wammy Wynette.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 06, 2014, 06:03:48 am
I don't know but I saw him underlining "gaskins has put on weight" in his notebook
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 15, 2014, 10:29:20 am
Bike number 2 is gone.  :'(

Went to Lyon for the weekend with the lass to get to some shops that aren't available in Cham, go to some decent bars, watch some live music, climb a bit and see the fireworks (and check Lyon out as a potential place to stay if we move away).

Grabbed her old Dutch town bike and my on-one 456 with its recently serviced forks...   Got to Lyon, parked up and cycled to the centre, locked the bikes in the main street to a bike staple with 2 locks (admittedly, our less tough locks - we left in a but of a rush and didn't get a chance to sway bike locks round...)

There was some kind of a Palestine demonstration going on so a pretty heavy police presence in town so we thought nothing of locking them up for an hour or two as we went around some shops etc.) Came back, locks cut, my bike gone, hers just sitting there unlocked.

Now I'm just praying its covered by my CAF insurance as it covers "sporting equipment". We'll see.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cha1n on July 18, 2014, 10:53:02 am
Went on a 2 day mission to Sheffield from Bristol to find a rental property. Only found one we liked, put in an application, went back to Bristol only to be called this morning that the current tenant has changed his mind about moving out and because it's easier for the landlord to keep him on than start legal action he'll probably do that!

Argh!!!sdjkkfhkjsd
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on July 29, 2014, 12:10:19 pm
Just got a fucking screw in my rear tyre on the bike.... FFS. I'm not having any fucking luck lately...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 07, 2014, 03:00:34 pm
Nevermind beast, I got the bike back after 3 months waiting for carburetor spare parts that never came... After ultrasound cleaning we put back on the original jets and needle, I rode it for a couple of days...
Completely out of carburation, with a big big hole between 3.500 and 5.000 rpm.
Thought it was going to be ok with time, also because from 5.000 rpm up it was powering and powering.
Took it yesterday night, it switched off at stops, traffic lights, etc. No minimum. Got home somehow, still didn't manage to turn it on again...
Charging battery now, but I'm sure it's not that.
Hopefully new jets and needle will arrive today...
Jesuschrist, what have I bought...
Every other day I think about selling it... But then it's so beautiful... And when it goes... Wow!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: gme on August 08, 2014, 03:12:08 pm
Not my misery but just had news that Ben Davison has had a really bad fall in Norway. Fell 10-15m to the ground after messing up a rope transfer.
Heli ride to Trondheim hospital with broken wrist, ankle and pelvis. Alan Cassidy is with him and I have spoken to him. Waiting for scans before operating.
He will be ok though and is a lucky bastard to not be far worse.
If anyone n here knows him send him a text or message to keep him upbeat.

Poor lad was on a tear as well getting close to 9a. Going to have to wait until next year now.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 08, 2014, 03:16:32 pm
Really sad to hear but glad to read it's not more serious. Damn shame.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 08, 2014, 03:30:12 pm
Gutted. Hope it heals OK and he comes back fighting.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 08, 2014, 03:48:09 pm
Bad news indeed. Hope everything goes well and fast!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: T_B on August 08, 2014, 04:17:45 pm
Gutted for him. Glad it's not more serious though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AlistairB on August 08, 2014, 04:21:11 pm
Fucking hell, awful luck Ben but glad he's going to be ok. Fingers crossed for a speedy recovery.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on August 08, 2014, 04:55:40 pm
Shite! He was on a roll too, glad it's not more serious.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Eddies on August 08, 2014, 06:49:04 pm
SHIIIT!! Poor lad... he was on the send train.
I hope he heals super quick and gets back on it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on August 08, 2014, 07:46:12 pm
Sounds nasty, bearing in mind 10-15m is like falling off the top of stanage popular end.

What exactly is a "rope transfer" in this context? Is this one of those sport crags you can't lower off on a normal rope?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: jwi on August 08, 2014, 07:51:16 pm
Jumared up to the crux and stsrted climbing before clipping in,  I've gathered.

The ground in the Flatanger cave is full of boulders. Very lucky that it didn't end up worse
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on August 08, 2014, 08:42:21 pm
Poor lad. Get well soon beast
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: petejh on August 08, 2014, 09:10:10 pm
Heal well beast.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy W on August 26, 2014, 11:51:31 am
Not bad really, but third night in Hotel Ibis Nemours, coutesy of the RAC while the van gets fixed and the repair bill rises as fast as the rain falls.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 26, 2014, 01:07:15 pm
:( at least its raining whilst you can't climb...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy W on August 26, 2014, 05:08:50 pm
A small YYFY the sun came out and we walked to Mamouths, nice area, not many problems. Maybe tomorrow it won't rain and we get our van back :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy W on August 27, 2014, 04:54:27 pm
A small YYFY the sun came out and we walked to Mamouths, nice area, not many problems. Maybe tomorrow it won't rain and we get our van back :)

No we didn't get the van back...fourth night in Nemours.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: T_B on August 27, 2014, 05:06:53 pm
Petis Bois and Rocher Greau are walking distance? I once went to Puiselet Le Paradis one hot Easter and there are a couple of choice problems there (Quetzal 7B+ is a hidden classic). At least you are not being put up in the Première Classe - we moved from there to the Ibis cos it was so grim.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fried on August 27, 2014, 05:34:16 pm
Any reason you can't make a weekend of it? Weather's looking up!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy W on August 28, 2014, 10:13:20 am
We will be out of here as fast as we can once the van is fixed!  Roche Greau yesterday was positively tropical, just right for a few goes on les conquistadors. I reckon Puiselet is a bit far to walk, thanks for the advice though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 29, 2014, 09:46:53 pm
Motorbike broken again. Seems a major electric problem, it just doesn't generate electricity. What have I done to upset the God of Motors?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on September 02, 2014, 02:36:24 am
Motorbike broken again. Seems a major electric problem, it just doesn't generate electricity. What have I done to upset the God of Motors?

Ouch... You're not having much luck with it, are you...

I just pulled my front pads off to find one of them was completely worn down to metal.... But weirdly the other was absolutely fine. Pain in the arse but able to get a new set this afternoon and fit them tomorrow...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 02, 2014, 07:18:23 am
Motorbike broken again. Seems a major electric problem, it just doesn't generate electricity. What have I done to upset the God of Motors?

Ouch... You're not having much luck with it, are you...

I just pulled my front pads off to find one of them was completely worn down to metal.... But weirdly the other was absolutely fine. Pain in the arse but able to get a new set this afternoon and fit them tomorrow...

Sticking caliper...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on September 02, 2014, 12:55:48 pm
Motorbike broken again. Seems a major electric problem, it just doesn't generate electricity. What have I done to upset the God of Motors?

Ouch... You're not having much luck with it, are you...

I just pulled my front pads off to find one of them was completely worn down to metal.... But weirdly the other was absolutely fine. Pain in the arse but able to get a new set this afternoon and fit them tomorrow...

Sticking caliper...

Yeah spot on. Just need to give it a good clean out in the morning and fit new pads... Good thing I have tomorrow off...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 02, 2014, 11:25:54 pm
Motorbike broken again. Seems a major electric problem, it just doesn't generate electricity. What have I done to upset the God of Motors?

Ouch... You're not having much luck with it, are you...

I just pulled my front pads off to find one of them was completely worn down to metal.... But weirdly the other was absolutely fine. Pain in the arse but able to get a new set this afternoon and fit them tomorrow...

Sticking caliper...

Yeah spot on. Just need to give it a good clean out in the morning and fit new pads... Good thing I have tomorrow off...

Work it in and out a few times (in by squeezing the brake lever - then wedge it back out with a screwdriver) - usually does the trick. Be careful about using any oils/freeing agents as 1. Its near the brakes and 2. it may affect the durability of the caliper seals..

Kinda thing you can keep an eye on as it takes 2 secs to check every now and then... (and is fairly important!)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy W on September 04, 2014, 04:54:51 pm
We will be out of here as fast as we can once the van is fixed!  Roche Greau yesterday was positively tropical, just right for a few goes on les conquistadors. I reckon Puiselet is a bit far to walk, thanks for the advice though.
Got the van back for two days then the alternator packed in! Then I pranged the side of the Hertz hire car on a boulder. Our luck must change surely?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 05, 2014, 08:50:58 am
Bad luck in threes? Buy a lottery ticket this weekend.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 10, 2014, 03:04:44 pm
http://youtu.be/C3todtZy5TI?t=6s (http://youtu.be/C3todtZy5TI?t=6s)

Some Fight on Black (poorly exposed) action.. Grr....
(probably wont make any sense unless the sound is on :D )
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cha1n on October 25, 2014, 07:06:06 pm
Got on Brass Monkeys when properly tired today so wasn't expecting much, after a handful of tries I'm on the jugs and just need to rockover and topout but I'm pumped out of my mind and jump off.

Punter.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sherlock on October 29, 2014, 12:12:25 pm
Just back from hospital appointment.I'd hoped for some good news but no,it appears there has been permanent damage to my eyesight. Consultant seems convinced it is linked to MS.
NNFN.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: galpinos on October 29, 2014, 12:24:23 pm
TomTom, isn't it Fight on the Black?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wood FT on October 29, 2014, 01:04:17 pm
Just back from hospital appointment.I'd hoped for some good news but no,it appears there has been permanent damage to my eyesight. Consultant seems convinced it is linked to MS.
NNFN.

sorry to hear that
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 29, 2014, 01:22:09 pm
Just back from hospital appointment.I'd hoped for some good news but no,it appears there has been permanent damage to my eyesight. Consultant seems convinced it is linked to MS.
NNFN.
Sorry to hear this.
Stay strong.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 29, 2014, 01:30:07 pm

Just back from hospital appointment.I'd hoped for some good news but no,it appears there has been permanent damage to my eyesight. Consultant seems convinced it is linked to MS.
NNFN.

:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 29, 2014, 02:24:13 pm
Bummer. Hang in there.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on October 31, 2014, 12:26:38 pm
Nothing , so serious, but a combination of events appears to have left me with Bicep tendonitis...
 :wall:
Time to rebuild myself. Looks like I'm going to be trapsing the hills looking for the mythical boulders rather than tearing it down in Nantmor.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 31, 2014, 12:58:18 pm
You don't need biceps for that slate slab :razorcrimpsmiley:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 31, 2014, 05:09:54 pm
This is how I went out today...
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8667/15676361952_007a2d1933.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15676361952/)
image (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15676361952/) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 31, 2014, 05:54:50 pm
This is how I went out today...
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8667/15676361952_007a2d1933.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15676361952/)
image (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15676361952/) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

The Kids your way'll be doing this next... trendsetter!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on October 31, 2014, 06:38:59 pm
Not serious.. And could easy be YYFY at the same time.. Depends on glass half vs. half empty..

Finally.... Finally my eldest son (16) kicked my FICKIN arse on plastic today... Like totally. Not just stuff he's done before.

Hopefully out on the real stuff 30 years of guile and tenacious knowledge will keep me ahead of the game for a few months.. But frankly.... I don't care. Just soo happy he's got off his arse and Focused on something he has now found true satisfaction...

So it's a NNYN for me.... And a massive YYFY for him. Another addition to the brethren.

*choked*

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Gallant on October 31, 2014, 06:40:58 pm
This is how I went out today...

The Kids your way'll be doing this next... trendsetter!
(Hopefully without images)
Everyone should know the brown has a better heel than the white, but the white's toe box is better...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 31, 2014, 11:35:09 pm
Not serious.. And could easy be YYFY at the same time.. Depends on glass half vs. half empty..

Finally.... Finally my eldest son (16) kicked my FICKIN arse on plastic today... Like totally. Not just stuff he's done before.

Hopefully out on the real stuff 30 years of guile and tenacious knowledge will keep me ahead of the game for a few months.. But frankly.... I don't care. Just soo happy he's got off his arse and Focused on something he has now found true satisfaction...

So it's a NNYN for me.... And a massive YYFY for him. Another addition to the brethren.

*choked*
That's great! And to hold him off until 16 is a decent effort on your part mate. If Raf wasn't so obsessed with cricket I fear he'd be burning me off by the time he's 10.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 01, 2014, 04:58:43 pm
Yeah, it took some doing, but he's the man of the house / plastic now. I'll get my board running again... Just to honourable in defeat, I'll show him my problems.... He will do them and give him the Allen keys to what what he wants...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 03, 2014, 11:36:46 am
It has to happen eventually. I'm putting ours off climbing, getting them hooked on sugar and video games instead, the pain of defeat would be too much to bear.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Palomides on November 03, 2014, 12:23:53 pm

Hopefully out on the real stuff 30 years of guile and tenacious knowledge will keep me ahead of the game for a few months..


At our wall, me and the other Dads manage to get one over on the strong youth from time to time by ruthlessly exploiting their weaknesses. Unfortunately they're all a bit like the killer robot from the Indestrucibles - they learn your tricks and it only works once   ::)

Just remember what Santiago said in Hemingway's "Old man and the sea"

Quote
"I may not be as strong as I think," the old man said. "But I know many tricks and I have resolution."
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 03, 2014, 02:00:34 pm
I think I can rely on reach for a few years yet!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sherlock on November 04, 2014, 09:14:15 am
Just one more reason I'm glad we decided not to have kids  :off:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on November 10, 2014, 09:55:22 am
Removed, sorry.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 11, 2014, 10:04:53 pm
Ah... The board... The standard set we nicknamed the 10 commandments about 3 winters ago. All this plastic pulling has left the lad a little short on finger strength... he's in bulk. Done 3 out of the ten... I've done 7 this week.. This is getting interesting. He's just asked for a programme for the beast maker though... The sands of time are running through fast..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 11, 2014, 10:59:58 pm
Ah... The Works. Did the the pinkle circuit. First time trying, only had 2 hours. Knackered skin stopped play after 2 hours anyways. Did it Hap hazard in terms of order. Didn't do about 5,  failed on 3. Flashed near all the rest. That's a truck load less than the lad... He did em all in over 2 visits.... Again.. This is getting interesting! Oh... And my wrist arthritis is now killing me :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 15, 2014, 09:39:57 am
11 days after knee surgery, with almost complete inactivity, and I've lost 3,5 kilos...
Don't want to think about how weak I'll be when I get back to proper training.
I feel like a jelly fish.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 15, 2014, 10:59:59 am
But a light jellyfish!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 15, 2014, 11:48:28 am
Dude I can give you 3.5 kg I have loads to spare.... :chair:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 15, 2014, 11:59:15 am
 ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 15, 2014, 05:34:27 pm
Ah... The board... The standard set we nicknamed the 10 commandments about 3 winters ago. All this plastic pulling has left the lad a little short on finger strength... he's in bulk. Done 3 out of the ten... I've done 7 this week.. This is getting interesting. He's just asked for a programme for the beast maker though... The sands of time are running through fast..

update... Today:
He did 9, ( we've forgotten the 10th)

I did 8.

Epoc over " I've been looking at you do these since I was 7.. Now I'm doing them"

"yep, here are the Allen keys mate, it's yours now."
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Shibby Features on November 26, 2014, 09:14:41 pm
It's half one on a Monday morning and I'm running.  It's dark, raining and they turned the streetlights off in my village at mignight, but I'm running.  There's pain burning in my abdomen, pain that I can't touch, can't get away from, so I run harder - hoping to replace it with my own pain.  Pain I can control.   

Let me tell you how I got here.  I woke up one morning in early  August busting for a piss.  Just a normal Sunday morning right?  Wrong.  No matter what I did I couldn't get rid of that feeling.  I must've stood in front of the fucking bog for half the day trying to piss it out, but it wouldn't go.  And the feeling was still there when I went to the Doctors later that week.  The young doctor got me to piss on a bit of paper, and quickly pronounced:  "There's a strong possibility you're diabetic"..  I told him there was a strong possibility he was wrong.  But he wouldn't do anything further until him and his colleagues had sent various poorly labelled specimens to the local lab.  The lab either lost them, or did the wrong tests.  We continued in this way for over a month.

Meanwhile, things had got worse, what had started as feeling like I needed to piss quickly morphed into a burning pain, and then in the nastiest twist of all, the sensation of intense electric shocks shooting down my right leg (and other places too delicate to mention).  The pain is non-stop, it hollows me out, I can't talk, not even to the person I live with, the person I love.  I can't let her near me to comfort me, or even to talk it through.

The doctors are now beginning to decide that I have some kind of biblical knob ebola reserved for the very worst people in society.  One particularly stern interrogation as to my involvement with needles, promiscuous gay sex and whores conspires with my lack of sleep (about 2 hours a night?) and sees me leaving the GP's genuinely wondering if I've actually done this stuff and am just fooling myself.  At some point doctors started putting fingers and other implements up my arse and other less accommodating oraphises.  I barely care.

God knows how, but even when I've hardly slept in weeks and am in pain, I still have the desire and some ability to climb.  There's something about the immediacy of the situation when I'm climbing that makes my body block the pain out.  I suppose it makes me realise that it's the stripped back, animal part of me that's at the controls when I'm pulling on rock.  These moments are my islands, where I'm alive again.

After two months of this, I'm lying in bed with the shooting pains running through me and I can hear my partner moving around downstairs.  It dawns on me that we're leading separate lives, and at the same moment a crackling jolt of pain shoots up my leg. I break.  I burst into tears for the first time in decades, huge gulping sobs and whimpering moans.  There are footsteps on the stairs and a hand on my back, careful to stay her distance.  Through the tears and bubbles of snot, I demand to be taken climbing.  I sit in the passenger seat, crying while my girlfriend drives me to the local sport crag.  I clip bolts for a couple of hours and regain my composure.

I go private.  They knock me out and push a camera on a stick up my japs eye.  I have Prostatitis.  They squeeze the prostate out and hose it down.  The doctor tells me to take time off work (yep, I was still going into work - Moron) and to take pills - lots of pills, Some with funny side effects.

Things get a bit better.  I start to become more human.  Slowly I get my personality back, and my relationship with it.  I start to socialise again, and in a few weeks go back to work.  I'm still in some pain, but it's so much better, and I can sleep!  The joy!

I go back to work, and start to feel competent again.  Realise how fucking useless and pathetic I'd been those last few months.  Curse myself for not sacking it off sooner.

Slowly, so slowly I start to feel optimistic.  I'm getting over this, getting back to normal.  Get in!

Then, in bed, one Sunday night in November I feel a crackle and a twinge of pain - and the burning, white hot need to take a piss.  My missis lies asleep next to me and I lie there rigid while I slide back two months in two hours.  I can't cope with the pain again, can't believe what's happening.  I leave the sleeping form of my partner under the covers in the warm bedroom, put on my running stuff and step out of the door into the dark.

It's half one on a Monday morning and I'm out running.

NNFN
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 26, 2014, 09:44:11 pm
Ouch :icon_welcome: :jaw:

If the treatment worked on bout one, why not focus on its efficacy so far and try to see it as a hiatus in process which hasn't quite finished yet?

In other words, sounds like you'll win, you just have to suffer some more first...

Good luck
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 26, 2014, 10:11:00 pm
It's half one on a Monday morning and I'm running.  It's dark, raining and they turned the streetlights off in my village at mignight, but I'm running.  There's pain burning in my abdomen, pain that I can't touch, can't get away from, so I run harder - hoping to replace it with my own pain.  Pain I can control.   

Let me tell you how I got here.  I woke up one morning in early  August busting for a piss.  Just a normal Sunday morning right?  Wrong.  No matter what I did I couldn't get rid of that feeling.  I must've stood in front of the fucking bog for half the day trying to piss it out, but it wouldn't go.  And the feeling was still there when I went to the Doctors later that week.  The young doctor got me to piss on a bit of paper, and quickly pronounced:  "There's a strong possibility you're diabetic"..  I told him there was a strong possibility he was wrong.  But he wouldn't do anything further until him and his colleagues had sent various poorly labelled specimens to the local lab.  The lab either lost them, or did the wrong tests.  We continued in this way for over a month.

Meanwhile, things had got worse, what had started as feeling like I needed to piss quickly morphed into a burning pain, and then in the nastiest twist of all, the sensation of intense electric shocks shooting down my right leg (and other places too delicate to mention).  The pain is non-stop, it hollows me out, I can't talk, not even to the person I live with, the person I love.  I can't let her near me to comfort me, or even to talk it through.

The doctors are now beginning to decide that I have some kind of biblical knob ebola reserved for the very worst people in society.  One particularly stern interrogation as to my involvement with needles, promiscuous gay sex and whores conspires with my lack of sleep (about 2 hours a night?) and sees me leaving the GP's genuinely wondering if I've actually done this stuff and am just fooling myself.  At some point doctors started putting fingers and other implements up my arse and other less accommodating oraphises.  I barely care.

God knows how, but even when I've hardly slept in weeks and am in pain, I still have the desire and some ability to climb.  There's something about the immediacy of the situation when I'm climbing that makes my body block the pain out.  I suppose it makes me realise that it's the stripped back, animal part of me that's at the controls when I'm pulling on rock.  These moments are my islands, where I'm alive again.

After two months of this, I'm lying in bed with the shooting pains running through me and I can hear my partner moving around downstairs.  It dawns on me that we're leading separate lives, and at the same moment a crackling jolt of pain shoots up my leg. I break.  I burst into tears for the first time in decades, huge gulping sobs and whimpering moans.  There are footsteps on the stairs and a hand on my back, careful to stay her distance.  Through the tears and bubbles of snot, I demand to be taken climbing.  I sit in the passenger seat, crying while my girlfriend drives me to the local sport crag.  I clip bolts for a couple of hours and regain my composure.

I go private.  They knock me out and push a camera on a stick up my japs eye.  I have Prostatitis.  They squeeze the prostate out and hose it down.  The doctor tells me to take time off work (yep, I was still going into work - Moron) and to take pills - lots of pills, Some with funny side effects.

Things get a bit better.  I start to become more human.  Slowly I get my personality back, and my relationship with it.  I start to socialise again, and in a few weeks go back to work.  I'm still in some pain, but it's so much better, and I can sleep!  The joy!

I go back to work, and start to feel competent again.  Realise how fucking useless and pathetic I'd been those last few months.  Curse myself for not sacking it off sooner.

Slowly, so slowly I start to feel optimistic.  I'm getting over this, getting back to normal.  Get in!

Then, in bed, one Sunday night in November I feel a crackle and a twinge of pain - and the burning, white hot need to take a piss.  My missis lies asleep next to me and I lie there rigid while I slide back two months in two hours.  I can't cope with the pain again, can't believe what's happening.  I leave the sleeping form of my partner under the covers in the warm bedroom, put on my running stuff and step out of the door into the dark.

It's half one on a Monday morning and I'm out running.

NNFN

Fuck me that's the most heart rendering piece written on here since the " how we nearly all died when we were young - whatever it was called- thread" a couple of years ago.

Time to move on, you obviously have the desire... Bang on the door of health care... Again and again... I'm not knowledgeable in terms of this condition... But I'm totally convinced you are not one to give up. Don't stop, don't stop... Until u are sorted. Good luck mate.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sherlock on November 28, 2014, 10:59:11 am
Holy fuck,that is a grim tale.Stick in mate.Sorry I can't offer any meaningful advice but all the best anyway.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 28, 2014, 11:54:38 am
Grim tale indeed. Best of luck for a full recovery!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 28, 2014, 12:16:39 pm
Not sure if this helps, but from my own (far less severe) experience of NHS things/care - if you find the right person to talk to things can move very very fast and be of superb quality.. Sometimes this involves going to see the a different doctor - getting an alternative referral etc...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Shibby Features on December 03, 2014, 05:33:48 pm
Thanks folks.  Just wanted a bit of encouragement.  A few shouts of “Allez!” from total strangers are surprisingly motivating when you're struggling.

It seems I'm not all the way back to square one  Still not easy, but not as bad as it was. I'm grateful for that.     

Pretty sure I'm with the best Doctors (a Professor), but they've done all they can do.  Just need to see if I recover, if it's chronic, or something between.  Have decided to treat recovery as if it's training for a long term goal.  Get systematic on it and have a weekly timetable of actions that promote recovery.

Thanks again.  I'll try and report back.  Hope to be posting in YYFY some time soon.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 03, 2014, 06:57:27 pm
Best of luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 04, 2014, 07:57:03 am
ALLEZ! or possibly "A MUERTE!" Keep fighting the fight.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on December 05, 2014, 06:36:54 pm
 After yet another nightmare week at work. I'm sat chilling in front of the telly with a nice glass of Red wine. On comes Look North reviewing last years floods and shock oh fucking shock on comes TomToms ugly mug.
Do we really pay our licence fee for this sort of outrage. :o
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 05, 2014, 07:20:22 pm
Blame the BBC.. They should carry suitable warning for grey middle aged professors with red faces...

Paul Hudson is surprisingly small... But wears considerably less make up than Peter Levy...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 05, 2014, 07:27:15 pm
NNFN! I missed it!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 05, 2014, 07:31:22 pm
That's a YYFY Lagers... ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on December 07, 2014, 08:54:28 pm
Nail in rear tyre Saturday evening.
Crash with car Sunday evening.

This one hurt more than last time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 07, 2014, 09:22:14 pm

Nail in rear tyre Saturday evening.
Crash with car Sunday evening.

This one hurt more than last time.

You ok?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on December 07, 2014, 09:26:25 pm
Yeah fine. Right leg took the bumper quite hard but no real damage to me. Just stiff now. Weird that it hurts more than sliding my knee along the tarmac at 50kph like last time...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on December 11, 2014, 11:44:19 am
I've been trying to leave the car for half hr. Too many tunes on absolute classic rock  :spank:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 11, 2014, 11:57:28 am
Wait for one of the 15 min advertisement breaks.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on December 11, 2014, 12:10:56 pm
I was on the non-stop hr of power  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Moo on December 11, 2014, 01:21:32 pm
we've all been there dense
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 17, 2014, 07:01:46 pm
Just sprained ( well, it became evident when..) my shoulder putting a T shirt on.

OW!!

Ice packs on...

To make it worse, obviously I ignored it and then attempted a board session.. Bad bad FD....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AMorris on December 19, 2014, 05:14:29 pm
Got called into a very improptu work meeting this afternoon and we were all told that because the business had been tough this year there will be 'restructuring and redundancies' in jan. A definite NNFN since jobs in Parasitology are pretty hard to come by... here's hoping I am not a victim of their restructure
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on December 19, 2014, 07:10:22 pm
I hope that works out OK for you AMorris. I know the feeling week as we have downsizing restructures on a yearly basis at my place.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 19, 2014, 08:12:13 pm
Nice timing there too. Best of luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 19, 2014, 08:19:47 pm
That sounds like a bollocks bit of news :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 19, 2014, 09:01:17 pm
unpleasant stuff

I'm sure there are a stack of parasite based puns that could be used here, none of which would be funny
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on December 19, 2014, 09:42:42 pm
My job was made redundant earlier this month so know how you must feel.

Hope it works out for you
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 19, 2014, 10:48:26 pm
Shit Grubes - didn't know that :( plan B?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sherlock on December 20, 2014, 08:10:03 am
Not good at all folks,best of luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 20, 2014, 08:35:21 am
Best wishes to all those facing uncertainty over jobs, hope 2015 proves settled for you.

A trivial NNFN (lacking a WTF??  thread)
I got a parking ticket letter today. Stills from CCTV clearly show my rear wheels on the zigzag outside the school gate, though front wheels on the drive leading through the same.

Because I got out of my car to open the closed gate when driving into the car park  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on December 20, 2014, 10:59:32 am
Got offered another job at the same place 20% pay cut doing my old job for less money than I did 2 years ago.

I was sure i made the right choice to take it but now 4 days in I remember I hate the job. So regretting my decision now and too late to change my mind.

Oh well, probs another round in June.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AMorris on December 20, 2014, 11:05:20 am
Cheers guys I appreciate the support, nervous times. Sorry to hear that grubes, I hope next year works out for you
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatboySlimfast on December 20, 2014, 12:15:02 pm
I was made redundant back in Feb,  in retrospect it's the best thing that could of happened. Nothing to loose so embarked on setting Ltd co up and working for myself doing stuff I wanted to do but was to chicken to do it.
10 months down and earning more than I was before, happier and less external stress. I got a couple of lucky breaks but experience and connections were what helped.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: haydn jones on December 21, 2014, 03:38:50 pm
Fucked my rotator cuff, 1 week before i go to Chulilla too... pretty fucking devastated.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 21, 2014, 04:05:27 pm
Noooo :( how fecked? Got ice on it?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: haydn jones on December 21, 2014, 08:59:30 pm
Not sure how buggered. had a session Thursday but felt no pain what so ever then woke up friday mourning and could barley move my arm above shoulder height and putting any stain on it hurt like hell I.E just moving the gear stick in my car.

I will admit it feels a lot better having done some light therabanding today, which is surprising, i thought it might agro it, but it seems to have stretched it out nicely and taken the sharp pain away and the horrible crunching feeling/noises

fingers crosses its just a very minor sprain and will be better for next week
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on December 21, 2014, 09:39:25 pm
Probably slept funny. Got the arm and shoulder wrapped up in them there dreads of yours. Anythings possible with a nest of snakes like that.

Glad you mending before the trip  :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cha1n on December 21, 2014, 10:52:36 pm
Fucked my rotator cuff, 1 week before i go to Chulilla too... pretty fucking devastated.

Probably that murple at the end of the session? Right shoulder?

A week is a long time for a muscular injury to heal, fingers crossed it starts to feel better soon. Always hard to know how long before a trip to start tapering your sessions to prevent injury. I'm always injured though so doesn't matter...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: hstmoore on December 22, 2014, 10:18:37 am
I'm recovering from a shoulder injury (inflammed bicep tendon, not rotator cuff), and found this exercise which I was recommended really helped to strengthen my weak shoulder/arm. It is fairly light-going so hopefully won't hurt.

It's called "Shoulder Shrug 1 - Theraband" http://919clinic.co.uk/Exercises (http://919clinic.co.uk/Exercises)

Would also recommend the physio John on this website.

Hope it helps.

p.s ice the shit out of it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: haydn jones on December 22, 2014, 02:09:33 pm
Left shoulder. Haven't tried the shoulder roles. There's only a very slight dull ache in my shoulder now 4 days on, so sounds like just a bad muscle sprain which hopefully means it will be fully healed in just a couple more days, but its a bit of an eye opener. think i will start to incorporate more antagonist work into my workouts and also do them on my days off climbing when I'm resting.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on December 22, 2014, 02:21:30 pm
I've found that regularly doing some yoga and/or press-ups and front plank has made a huge difference to how much I can climb before my shoulders start playing up. Hope you heal up in time for your trip, sounds like most of Sheffield is heading out there.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on December 22, 2014, 02:41:58 pm
Never heard of the place
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 25, 2014, 06:33:47 pm
Can you believe it?
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8646/15482044884_f3dfeb55b0.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15482044884/)
20141225_192635 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15482044884/) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

Gas bill. 347 Euros of consumed gas morphed into an 847 Euros bill.
We pay taxes and Iva over taxes.
This country is finished. Please someone civilized come and colonize us.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on December 25, 2014, 07:04:50 pm
Dog ate the turkey... Thank god im a veggie so couldn't care less
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 25, 2014, 09:54:44 pm
Dog ate the turkey... Thank god im a veggie so couldn't care less

When it happens to someone else it sounds quite amusing, but I know the feeling:

I made a venison casserole last night, quite a special one as I had made up the recipe a few years ago and my dad had always wanted to try it. He's not very well, so it was nice to make it while all the family were here. Opened the oven door to check how it was doing and it came flying out and half went on the floor.  :'(

Fortunately the family aren't fussy so we scraped up most of it and just got on with it. Was pretty raging though!
 
Anyway, it was thumbs up all round for the combination of venison, raspberries, dark chocolate and stout - even with unknown extras from the floor ha!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on December 25, 2014, 11:19:49 pm
'Scraped up most of it'  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 29, 2014, 08:06:36 pm
I know there are some awful things shared here, that rightly deserve sympathy and rage against the dying of the light.

But.

Please see this from the point of view of a Father.

She's 9.


As a joke we let her put on Polly's lipstick.


9!


Sloper, very soon I'm going to need a pretty good lawyer, as some young lad is about to incur my wrath.

Justifiable homicide?

Anyone got a shotgun going spare?

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/29/0179779dfcebe4e955248bfc29ff7f97.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cjsheps on January 02, 2015, 03:42:25 pm
Just been diagnosed with tendonitis in two fingers, following a shitload of time off because of resplitting all my fingertips every few sessions.

At the start of 2015, chomping at the bit to get on with training.

No no fucking no.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fried on January 02, 2015, 03:59:03 pm

Anyway, it was thumbs up all round for the combination of venison, raspberries, dark chocolate and stout - even with unknown extras from the floor ha!

Sounds good, any chance of the recipe? I should have some game on the way.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 02, 2015, 05:54:27 pm
Another dog related nnfn. Adopted a blue merle border collie 4 days ago and today he cut himself on some glass whilst running in a field.... Not insured him yet so a lovely 230 quid bill... And my new prana trousers got coated in blood....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: csl on January 14, 2015, 09:49:07 am
Knocked off my bike at 20mph this morning by a non-indicated left turn.

I was really excited about eating my Sri Lankan chicken soup for lunch, but it smashed all over the contents of my bag! nnfn
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 14, 2015, 09:52:33 am
"Yeah, I've got a broken leg but the worst part is I spilled my soup!"

Hope you're OK, even if the soup isn't...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on January 27, 2015, 10:50:29 am
First day off in a while, sleepily set about doing some exercises I've been doing during the day at work. Didn't give a thought to fact I was barefoot on carpet. 40 moves into some wideouts and I realise I have no skin left under both my big toes  :chair:

Plenty of blood but no skin. Do carpet burns have grades?

Dickhead.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: the_dom on January 27, 2015, 05:21:53 pm
First day off in a while, sleepily set about doing some exercises I've been doing during the day at work. Didn't give a thought to fact I was barefoot on carpet. 40 moves into some wideouts and I realise I have no skin left under both my big toes  :chair:

Plenty of blood but no skin. Do carpet burns have grades?

Dickhead.

That's why I don't do burpees barefoot :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on February 09, 2015, 09:52:05 pm
Right at the end of a fantastic day out at the Slipstones yesterday, I remarked about how unbelievably crimpy it was for gritstone, then pulled on and heard something go "pop" in my left ring finger. Today confirms it, torn the A4 pulley. I'm so psyched for bouldering at the minute, any time out is hard to stomach. I guess I'm just going to have to grit my teeth, do my rehab and get better at open handing in the future!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 10, 2015, 03:56:44 pm
Lufthansa lost my luggage on Saturday evening and there is still no sign of it. Worst is my laptop charger was in it and even the battery on my mac book can't hold out for ever. I know,  first world problem etc.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 10, 2015, 04:07:54 pm
Lufthansa lost my luggage on Saturday evening and there is still no sign of it. Worst is my laptop charger was in it and even the battery on my mac book can't hold out for ever. I know,  first world problem etc.

macbook chargers are dead easy to get hold of... might cost you some ££ but there'll be plenty around.. probably borrow one from your Dept IT person (assuming you have one?)...

Anyway - time to get some £££ for some new clothes thanks to Lufthansa!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on March 10, 2015, 04:14:56 pm
Lufthansa lost my luggage on Saturday evening and there is still no sign of it. Worst is my laptop charger was in it and even the battery on my mac book can't hold out for ever. I know,  first world problem etc.

No YYFY for the trip ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 10, 2015, 04:29:46 pm
That's true!  Though I was on the way home from two weeks in Gothenburg.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 23, 2015, 07:38:09 am
Strained my left gluteus Saturday doing hill sprints, after a very strong bouldering session on the board. It had to happen sooner or later, every sprint session I was pushing more than the previous one and I had added a more uphill finish for a few meters. As usual, this happens at top form. My inability to pull back and play it (slightly) safe is appalling.
Now I walk like John Wayne after riding bareback for three days.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 23, 2015, 09:26:18 am
don't worry Nibs

the cool kids are doing everything footless these days
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 23, 2015, 09:51:40 am

Now I walk like John Wayne after riding bareback for three days.

This is why you should always wear a condom and use lubricant.

Oh, and we say "pull out" not "pull back"...







Sorry.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 23, 2015, 09:54:49 am
Glad someone said it!

Nibile this just means you can train enough to guarantee BIFF2016 victory.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 23, 2015, 10:18:45 am
 ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 23, 2015, 11:56:24 am
Oh, and we say "pull out" not "pull back"...
On a side note, I make this kind of errors all the time. I have a couple of words in my mind and I mix them up. Oh well, I'm learning a lot on here as of late!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 23, 2015, 12:36:53 pm

Oh, and we say "pull out" not "pull back"...
On a side note, I make this kind of errors all the time. I have a couple of words in my mind and I mix them up. Oh well, I'm learning a lot on here as of late!
Mainly, I was thinking, Hill Sprints was a funny name for a girl, but maybe she's from California...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 23, 2015, 01:22:41 pm
 ;D ;D ;D ;D
Sprintus Interructus.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 24, 2015, 01:23:27 pm
Anyway, I was deep into board climbing and siegeing long term board projects, now you gave me the idea of training for the Biff...
 :dance1:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: haydn jones on April 01, 2015, 12:02:44 am
NNFN broke a big chunk off the arete of voyager today whilst trying it. Was so close to doing it too, considering it was half wet it would have definitely gone in the dry!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 01, 2015, 12:35:21 am
 :worms:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: r-man on April 01, 2015, 12:45:08 am
Oh dear, has it started already? :lol: Place your bets now for the subject of the ukc joke news item...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duma on April 01, 2015, 06:47:33 am
Boo Robin, spoilsport! He had me until I scrolled down
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 01, 2015, 09:07:30 am
Haydns was far far better than UKC's effort...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69629
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 01, 2015, 09:23:26 am
The best April Fool's joke I've seen today is the one about a bunch of millionaires telling people who to vote for because it'll be better for them.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 01, 2015, 09:48:29 am

The best April Fool's joke I've seen today is the one about a bunch of millionaires telling people who to vote for because it'll be better for them.

I actually thought you were on the wind up.

But,

No. They really are that arogant.

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/01/817ff0b1e45bba0fbda059b68eb25bc7.jpg)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duma on April 01, 2015, 10:24:36 am
The best April Fool's joke I've seen today is the one about a bunch of millionaires telling people who to vote for because it'll be better for them.
Genius, stolen for status.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on April 01, 2015, 11:28:10 am
Haydns was far far better than UKC's effort...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69629
This is petty poor too http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=7208

And alpkit ae putting on a show too https://www.alpkit.com/featured/half-the-price-half-the-weight
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on April 01, 2015, 02:28:00 pm
Ours is by far the worst: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/horseshoe-quarry-redevelopment-consultation (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/horseshoe-quarry-redevelopment-consultation)

Or perhaps not! http://www.theguardian.com/media/2015/apr/01/jeremy-clarkson-joins-guardian-drive-for-fossil-fuel-divestment (http://www.theguardian.com/media/2015/apr/01/jeremy-clarkson-joins-guardian-drive-for-fossil-fuel-divestment)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 01, 2015, 05:04:27 pm
The best April Fool's joke I've seen today is the one about a bunch of millionaires telling people who to vote for because it'll be better for them.

You mean saying who would be better for business and by extension the employees? Of course when Labour used business leaders to say the Tory plan for an EU referendum was dangerous & etc that was perfectly acceptable.  Lefty double standard fuckwittery at its finest, have a house point.

In respect of Miliband's latest wheeze: you do realise that if ZHC after 3 months become standard contracts employers will just terminate the contracts at 11 weeks and force the ZHC employee to take 2 weeks off (unpaid natch) before going back on a HZC and repeat?

If you have someone on a ZHC for the summer season do you really think it makes sense to erquire them to be employed thereafter on a standard contract when there's no work for them to do?  His plan is utter fucktarded drivel.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 01, 2015, 05:45:56 pm
Ah yes... Those 100 'business leaders' have their work force close at heart. Not the shareholders or their own benefit then?

And 1 in three of them are Tory Donors and 1/5 have been given honours... http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/politics/one-in-five-of-the-businessmen-who-signed-protory-letter-were-given-honours-by-david-cameron-and-one-third-are-tory-donors-10148897.html
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 01, 2015, 05:54:15 pm
Honestly Sloper, I have no love for Labour.

I'm not convinced  of Jasper's card carrying communist status (as you like to imply) either.

The whole exercise is pathetic, for the reasons stated.

The assumption that that which is good for the Boss /share holder is also good for the employee, is utter tosh. Trickle down is a crock of fetid dingo's kidneys.

On a much happier note, I celebrate the retiring of my former employer, if only I could believe he was bowing out as puppet master of the Cons too...




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 01, 2015, 06:08:01 pm
I'm in favour of staying in Europe and against reducing the main rate of Corporation Tax so no, I've no double standards on this issue as that is the specific policy the people signing this letter referred to.

Sloper your posts are like a toddler bashing his rattle against the bars of his cot. Repetitive, pointless and really quite irritating after a while.

You rant on about tribalism without realising (although I'm sure you actually do) how completely stupid that is when you're playing the part of Tory troll, trying to turn everything into a tribal left v right (or in fact Tory v Labour despite the fact that I've stated many times that I have no love for either) slanging match instead of a debate.

I don't think for one second that you actually believe what you just wrote about "better for the employees" as if you do then you're not being a troll you're being really thick.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 01, 2015, 08:19:15 pm
There was a hint of bait in the water, I'll cough that one guvnor.

The suggestion that campaigning was the equivalent to telling people how to vote is just retarded: as for the campaign being motivated by personal interest, do you think that these folk would be (personally)  materially worse off if Labour won? 

There is a party political point here.  When Labour roll out business leaders to campaign, that's fine and you don't complain (and neither do I), when the Tories do it, you do complain: what's the difference?  When leaders of the BMA come out and say that the NHS is on 'life support' and say vote Labour their voice is heard because there's an acceptance that they know what they're talking about, perhaps, maybe just perhaps, the business leaders regardless of their political views also have a degree of standing?

 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 01, 2015, 08:40:26 pm
im good with the various lines of debate.. but this ( IMHO) is getting too far off the thread title desire.. which is all about fucking up climbing, training for climbing or being unable to do either.. for whatever reason.


can someone rip a tendon now please..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 01, 2015, 09:12:38 pm
indeed, wrong thread syndrome.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 02, 2015, 07:35:34 am
There's a whole thread already dedicated to your fucking political tedium.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 02, 2015, 07:45:01 am
Didums.  I suppose your political views are front page news?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 02, 2015, 08:41:44 am
My political views are front page news? What the fuck is that supposed to mean?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatneck on April 02, 2015, 09:04:52 am
What a bellend...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 02, 2015, 09:32:54 am
Jesusfuckingchrist, let's bring this back to its roots.
Yesterday, after a session of about 15 footless boulders from 8 to 15 moves, I couldn't do more than one one armer per arm. One!  :wall:
Time to hang the boots. Oh wait a minute, maybe I've already done that.
Time to hang the microcrimps then.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 02, 2015, 09:35:31 am
Thank fuck for nibble  :strongbench: /  :weakbench:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on April 02, 2015, 09:39:40 am
someone rip a tendon now please..

Done
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: the_dom on April 02, 2015, 11:24:40 am
Jesusfuckingchrist, let's bring this back to its roots.
Yesterday, after a session of about 15 footless boulders from 8 to 15 moves, I couldn't do more than one one armer per arm. One!  :wall:
Time to hang the boots. Oh wait a minute, maybe I've already done that.
Time to hang the microcrimps then.

Weakling.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 02, 2015, 02:55:24 pm
someone rip a tendon now please..

Done

 :sorry:

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: haydn jones on April 02, 2015, 10:03:10 pm
A real nnfn this time. Had my car window smashed in at rivelin car park. On the bright side they only took my sat-nav and not the climbing gear of which there was s LOT of.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on April 02, 2015, 10:53:16 pm
Bastards.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 03, 2015, 08:45:45 am
Was the satnav due an upgrade? :)

Seriously, I hate that shit. Twats.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 03, 2015, 09:10:27 am
Scrotes.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: haydn jones on April 03, 2015, 02:13:07 pm
The sat-nav was worth about £5 it's a joke and now I pay £80 to replace the window
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cha1n on April 12, 2015, 03:37:40 pm
Today I found out that I can only do the crux of powerband the lanky way (way barrows does it on the big link). :boohoo:

Will it still count?! It's not like it's easy that way or anything but I've heard that alternative sequences aren't allowed on this limestone stuff...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on April 14, 2015, 10:22:16 am
Managed to finally get enough bandwidth in Albarracin camping to log on, Spend 4 points to bring Coutinho in and bench Bolasie for him... Greatest fantasy football blunder of the season  :slap:

It was offset slightly by a great day out bouldering, followed by amazing tapas in a hidden backstreet via a good tip off!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Three Nine on April 14, 2015, 10:49:30 am
Today I found out that I can only do the crux of powerband the lanky way (way barrows does it on the big link). :boohoo:

Will it still count?! It's not like it's easy that way or anything but I've heard that alternative sequences aren't allowed on this limestone stuff...

No it wont.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 14, 2015, 10:54:27 am
 ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cha1n on April 14, 2015, 11:01:37 pm
Meh, one day when average heights have increased it'll be the normal way of doing the end!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: thekettle on April 17, 2015, 07:21:18 pm
Audible 'snap' from my A2 today at St Bees 10 minutes into the warm-up in perfect spring conditons.. it was the last session of a perodised training cycle, next week was full rest, now it's rehab till the end of July  :'(
I was in such good shape too!  :furious:
And yesterday I screwed 26 new crimps onto the garage woody  :boohoo:
 :shit: :shit: :shit:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 18, 2015, 12:25:46 pm
Audible 'snap' from my A2 today at St Bees 10 minutes into the warm-up in perfect spring conditons.. it was the last session of a perodised training cycle, next week was full rest, now it's rehab till the end of July  :'(
I was in such good shape too!  :furious:
And yesterday I screwed 26 new crimps onto the garage woody  :boohoo:
 :shit: :shit: :shit:

That sucks. It's always when you think you're going well.  I'm nursing a tender (but not too bad) A2. First one I've had in years and first time I've focussed on training in years - go figure!

Non bouldering NNFN for me. Drove down the valley yesterday to get a few things from the DIY store. On the way back I decided to give the van and "Italian Tune Up" by sitting at 4000rpm for 10 minutes while climbing the moderate hill back up the valley. So busy thinking about that I forgot the speed limit change and gut pulled by the Gendarme at 124 in a 90. That was an expensive rip to the shops.  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 18, 2015, 02:58:04 pm
One shouldn't laugh at that, but...........
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 18, 2015, 03:13:42 pm
I hope you mean the speeding and not the A2, becuase if it's the A2 you're descending to sloper levels of cuntishness.

The speeding, laugh away - fair cop for being a fanny!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 18, 2015, 03:37:04 pm
@ the speeding obviously, fanny :P
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy W on April 20, 2015, 05:46:02 pm
In Golden, Denver visiting GF at the start of a three week trip, went snowboarding for the first time which was a bit of a YYFY. Obviously fell over quite a lot and strained my rib muscles, which the internet suggests takes ages to heal from! NNFN!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mindfull on April 20, 2015, 06:40:13 pm
RX en echo of the shoulder: tendinose and a tear :( Probably surgery and injections ...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on April 20, 2015, 08:50:53 pm
Audible 'snap' from my A2 today at St Bees 10 minutes into the warm-up in perfect spring conditons.. it was the last session of a perodised training cycle, next week was full rest, now it's rehab till the end of July  :'(
I was in such good shape too!  :furious:
And yesterday I screwed 26 new crimps onto the garage woody  :boohoo:
 :shit: :shit: :shit:

Sorry to hear that John! Wishing you a speedy recovery mate.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2015, 09:11:08 am
strained my rib muscles, which the internet suggests takes ages to heal from! NNFN!

Give it a few days, might go away, and not be as serious as you think. Where were you riding?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 21, 2015, 11:00:21 am
Biceps tenosynovitis versus need for Slap repair of shoulder. Time to invest in physiotherapy. Poor resolution means mri steroid or heaven forbid surgery after the summer biking season
 It's just one thing after another. Damn my failed immortality
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on April 21, 2015, 12:15:06 pm
In Golden, Denver visiting GF at the start of a three week trip, went snowboarding for the first time which was a bit of a YYFY. Obviously fell over quite a lot and strained my rib muscles, which the internet suggests takes ages to heal from! NNFN!

i've never strained my ribs/intercostals as such, but have bruised them quite painfully twice in the last couple of years. Once by dropping a kettlebell on them, once by taking a tumble snowboarding and landing on my avy beacon. (Didn't do the beacon any good either  :()

In both cases I was back to pretty much normal functioning within a few weeks, but there were specific exercises I couldn't do without pain for months afterwards. For example the snowboarding incident was in February, and I still can't do any explosive pulling exercises - campusing etc. But otherwise I can climb and do everything else pretty much as usual.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy W on April 21, 2015, 11:24:39 pm
strained my rib muscles, which the internet suggests takes ages to heal from! NNFN!

Give it a few days, might go away, and not be as serious as you think. Where were you riding?
It was Loveland. Nice place, new snow and great experience for a longtime surfer, first time snow boarder. Ribs are getting better, lots of ice and ibuprofen. Maybe not as bad as I thought. Still find getting of the bed painful though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 22, 2015, 10:27:13 am
A place close to my heart. In the closing days of the winter season they copped an unusual foot or so of snow, which we scored midweek with only a couple of dozen other people, rode fresh all day long, just glorious. Then went to Arapahoe Basin the next day for the same.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 22, 2015, 04:52:01 pm
Biceps tenosynovitis versus need for Slap repair of shoulder. Time to invest in physiotherapy. Poor resolution means mri steroid or heaven forbid surgery after the summer biking season
 It's just one thing after another. Damn my failed immortality

Another big up for meadowhead physiotherapy. Biceps unlikely to be in the tear. Excerises make me feel sick... But avoiding surgery is a possibility... Thats my pre work exercise programme sorted for the foreseeable future then... You know it's gonna be harsh when you are told " you may  want to ice it when you home"
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 22, 2015, 05:36:45 pm
Sorry to hear that Fatdoc. Hopefully you'll soon be able to get out bumbling at Burbage by way of rehab.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 04, 2015, 10:31:37 am
Fucked both elbows in a weekend.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 04, 2015, 10:38:59 am
Tennis?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 04, 2015, 11:39:25 am
Tennis?
Bouldering.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 04, 2015, 11:43:01 am
Jokes apart, no it's not tennis. I feel it as being more joint related than tendon related. Some flexion angles are really painful just to hold and everything seems a bit stiff and maybe even swollen.
It's in the back of the elbow, mainly between the point of the elbow and the epicondilus, where the soft tissue is.
It's horrible, it hurt to just wash my face this morning.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on May 04, 2015, 05:06:32 pm
BUmmer.  Cause?  too strong for real rock nowadays? 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jim on May 04, 2015, 08:47:56 pm
sounds like you may be overdoing it Lore. Perhaps a couple of weeks off will sort it
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 04, 2015, 11:13:50 pm
I don't know, the right one was a bit achey sometimes, but the left one was fine.
It's mainly the extension that's painful, like when you pull a t-shirt off over your head, and some flexion angles.
I felt something on last session, pushing down on a hold with the right arm to stay put, but again, left one was fine.
Strangely enough, I had taken a week off completely due to my second gluteus strain.
I will go to the ostheo in ten days but hopefully it will be better by then. Climbing was fine, no pain at all though.
I will do some theraband stuff and see how it goes.
Dammit.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DaveC on May 09, 2015, 11:33:46 pm
Descending a steep rocky footpath yesterday and a big chunk of the path gave way with me on it...sprained wrist, two cracked ribs...bastard!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 10, 2015, 09:52:00 am
Ouch! Bad news, sorry about that! Get well soon!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 10, 2015, 11:12:47 am
Jokes apart, no it's not tennis. I feel it as being more joint related than tendon related. Some flexion angles are really painful just to hold and everything seems a bit stiff and maybe even swollen.
It's in the back of the elbow, mainly between the point of the elbow and the epicondilus, where the soft tissue is.
It's horrible, it hurt to just wash my face this morning.

Hi Lore.

Just wondering.. sounds similar to something I've had problems with over the years. I have the option of an operation on my right elbow. There is a bone spur which, at full extension, impinges on my triceps tendon, causing pain, obviously.

At other times, the point of my elbow - where the bone spur is - can be very sensitive, often with a bursa there too. Occasionally this flares up for no apparently particular reason, but can be painful enough to stop me sleeping.

Could what you have be similar?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Pako on May 10, 2015, 11:44:14 am
I occasionally (twice now, counting yesterday) have days where my left elbow gets a bit fucked. It happens after a big day of campusing and steep climbing, and usually manifests itself when doing a big lock move. It doesn't hurt at all, but when I bend my left arm fully the arm is stuck for a little while in the locked position, and it feel hard to gett it out of that locked position. When I am sitting down, and try to lock my arm back, the same thing happens. Then it gets better once I finish the session, and has only reappeared once, yesterday. Anyone else found this? The only other elbow stuff is just occasional sensitivity on my elbows, also after big sessions, but it is never really too bad and if I get it I just do more ring pushups.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 10, 2015, 12:08:37 pm
II
...and if I get it I just do more ring pushups.

Is that on each arm separately, maybe extending to a handstand or planche..?  ;)

I propose a new thread about all this.. "Giving it the elbow".

To Lore. Hope things improve soon!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 11, 2015, 10:32:44 am
Cheers guys, things are getting better.
Time for an "Elbows, elbows, fucking elbows!" topic?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Ally Smith on May 11, 2015, 10:59:58 am
Succumbed to the MTB plague and did a superman over the handlebars on the bank holiday weekend, inverting and landing on my back/neck/head after falling down a 6ft drop.

In behaviour typical of someone that lives on their own and values their independence, I ignored the symptoms for nearly a week before being ground down by the near constant headache.

Finally went to docs on friday morning and then got sent for x-rays, and then a CT scan. I've torn neck muscle and have an "elevated inter-cranial pressure".

That isn't the NNFN; I was totally off my game and didn't realise that the pretty doctor treating me was the same pretty doctor i'd been chatting to via online dating!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 11, 2015, 11:14:54 am
Yeh she's not bad is she? Loves anal
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 11, 2015, 11:24:18 am
That isn't the NNFN; I was totally off my game and didn't realise that the pretty doctor treating me was the same pretty doctor i'd been chatting to via online dating!

Did she give you the "usual back injury test"? (If anyone has had a back injury they will know what I mean!)/
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on May 13, 2015, 10:22:39 am
Did you smash it?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 13, 2015, 10:34:10 am
(http://d1p3t35jiqtse7.cloudfront.net/content/uploads/2014/08/richard-keys-400x400.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on May 13, 2015, 10:34:56 am
(http://d1p3t35jiqtse7.cloudfront.net/content/uploads/2014/08/richard-keys-400x400.jpg)

Glad someone got it  ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 13, 2015, 10:44:52 am
Hmmm...
I'm quite sure it must be anal-related, but the details are blurry. And maybe it's better that they remain such.
 ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: butters on May 13, 2015, 11:21:25 am
Descending a steep rocky footpath yesterday and a big chunk of the path gave way with me on it...sprained wrist, two cracked ribs...bastard!

Does that mean that while you are convalescing and watching the ineptitude of the English batsmen against Mitch Johnson and laughing to yourself that you will experience some pain? That's Schadenfreude that.  ;)

Seriously - get well soon mate.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DaveC on May 13, 2015, 11:27:23 am
Thanks Lee. I  not convinced Johnson will he as effective on pitches over there. Watch out for Starc though, he is turning into the real deal.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 13, 2015, 02:24:28 pm
Google is the source of all knowledge.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 14, 2015, 02:51:28 pm
In the quiet, long before opening, as the torrential rain hammered on the world around; we came into the wall.

Polly waited by the door, as I ferreted in the cupboards out the back hunting the laptop power supply that had been "tidied" away...

I came back empty handed, grumbling, and Polly said "can you hear dripping?"

A quick hunt turned up water oozing from a line of bolt holes.
A rapid grab of the ladder and caving expedition into the false ceiling, lead to the thrilling discovery of a pouring torrent, neatly hidden away behind the wall.

And.

With sinking heart.

Lifting the first of the many thousands of pounds worth of matting below.


We find lake Bloody, Sodding, Victoria MK2 spreading across the entire (wooden, f#*€ing wooden) floor.


Bollocks.


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 14, 2015, 03:27:30 pm
 :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 14, 2015, 03:31:01 pm
That's a massive sack of arse. I hope you can get it fixed up!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 14, 2015, 04:15:53 pm
:( insurance??
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 14, 2015, 04:48:38 pm
:( insurance??

Probably.

You should see my Heath Robinson plumbing job, involving a large plastic tea tray with a sink drain fitted into it and long pipe run from leak site to cafe; where it is now plumbed into the sink drain.

You can do it if you B&Q it!

So, despite the fact that it will take the roofers days at least to fix it, it shouldn't get any worse.

Looks like it's been happening for some time, so we have to wait until it's dried out to assess the damage.

Fortunately, no sign of mould on the underside of the mats, though the wood below has not fared so well.

So looks like a few days of late night mat lifting and mould treatment/drying.

Cheers for the thoughts.

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/14/24f1d9f9cf35e9e00b2fc90b09a2e2f7.jpg)


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 14, 2015, 04:55:46 pm
Dehumidifiers etc.. cost alot to run - but if you go to B&Q and get a couple or 5 large floor sitting fans and leave them running each night (with the wet bits/matting propped up) it'll really help speed up the drying..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 14, 2015, 06:40:12 pm
Yeah, we're lucky though. We fitted ceiling fans before we opened (Bouldering rooms with no air movement suck, but AC costs a fortune x10^x).
Still gets too hot in the summer.


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 14, 2015, 07:22:39 pm
Sorry to hear that Matt. Shit luck. Hope it gets sorted quickly.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on May 14, 2015, 07:25:12 pm
Thats shit, it never rains but it pours.  :(

Hope it dries soon and the damage is limited.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 16, 2015, 08:28:52 am
Insurers may well cover dehumidifiers and monster fans. Good luck with that mate.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on May 16, 2015, 09:20:50 am
Just had a wet dream. Thought I'd left those behind in 2001.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 16, 2015, 04:00:25 pm
 :chair:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on June 05, 2015, 03:20:20 pm
Weird shit in my left leg. Sudden twanging/tearing sensation in my calf in the night - not cramp, I'm familiar with that and this was different. Acute pain in the belly of the muscle but only when I put load on it by doing something foolish such as trying to walk. No swelling, no bruising. GP says muscles don't spontaneously tear themselves in the night while resting, any anyway it's in the wrong place for the common or garden middle aged bloke calf muscle tear. His diagnosis: some weird shit, orthopaedist asap, A&E if it gets even weirder before I make it to the orthopaedist.

Not after an internet diagnosis, just having a little cry. So far this year I've trained hard by my standards, definitely feel like I've made progress in terms of movement and strength indoors, but for a variety of reasons - weather, transport, injuries - actual achievements on actual rock have been few and far between. I had a couple of free weekends and partners lined up in June and was determined to change that. Now I can't even walk to the f*cking crag.  :'(

Time to read Dave Mac's chapter on psychologically coping with downtime, and then re-read his blog post about campusing and one-footed bouldering (http://davemacleod.blogspot.de/2015/06/campus-notes.html).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Three Nine on June 05, 2015, 03:37:02 pm
Get that fingerboard out. Often funny quick onset things like that end up disappearing just as fast.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 06, 2015, 08:52:15 am

Weird shit in my left leg. Sudden twanging/tearing sensation in my calf in the night - not cramp, I'm familiar with that and this was different. Acute pain in the belly of the muscle but only when I put load on it by doing something foolish such as trying to walk. No swelling, no bruising. GP says muscles don't spontaneously tear themselves in the night while resting, any anyway it's in the wrong place for the common or garden middle aged bloke calf muscle tear. His diagnosis: some weird shit, orthopaedist asap, A&E if it gets even weirder before I make it to the orthopaedist.

Not after an internet diagnosis, just having a little cry. So far this year I've trained hard by my standards, definitely feel like I've made progress in terms of movement and strength indoors, but for a variety of reasons - weather, transport, injuries - actual achievements on actual rock have been few and far between. I had a couple of free weekends and partners lined up in June and was determined to change that. Now I can't even walk to the f*cking crag.  :'(

Time to read Dave Mac's chapter on psychologically coping with downtime, and then re-read his blog post about campusing and one-footed bouldering (http://davemacleod.blogspot.de/2015/06/campus-notes.html).

Not attempting any sort of diagnosis, but...

It sounds, not dissimilar; to a mates DVT onset. His bruising didn't show for days (his was probably diving induced) and the whole thing was initial written off as "weird shit".


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DaveC on June 06, 2015, 12:24:28 pm
Recovering well from broken ribs but it is now clear that the accompanying shoulder injury is worse than originally thought. May have to have surgery to remove damaged tissue...fairly fucked off to be frank.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 06, 2015, 12:54:48 pm
:( rubbish news for both of you..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on June 06, 2015, 02:06:30 pm
It sounds, not dissimilar; to a mates DVT onset. His bruising didn't show for days (his was probably diving induced) and the whole thing was initial written off as "weird shit".

Yep, my GP was afraid of that too and told me to go straight to A&E if anything swelled up or turned blue. Which my left foot duly did, so I went, and the nice young lady doctor did a blood test and an ulatrasound scan and gave the vein the all-clear.

German A&E in a prosperous suburb of Munich is an interestingly different experience from British inner city A&E. Still a lot of sitting around, but quiet, with staff who have time to do stuff thoroughly and explain what they're doing, and an eerie absence of drunks and knife wounds.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on June 14, 2015, 01:12:30 pm
Glad it's not too serious Muench.

After last weekend climbing n the south coast, the van decided to have a hissy and take out loads of bits of the fueling system. Several hundred pounds worth it would seem but it least it's happened now and not whilst in Spain. Then the week went downhill...

So set about training at the Climbing Station on Wed, had a great two hours working out how to cross over my right hand (learnt enough to know what I can't do) and on the last effort of the night, my foot pops off a crappy smear I was using and suddenly the front of my left shoulder isn't happy. Not even when rubbing my nose, turning the steering wheel going home was a handed job. See the physio on Tuesday but she says to not lift my arm above my head, as she things I've done something to some tendon or other. Bollocks.

Being positive, I set about training the legs ready for the Bernese Alps in August and ran Thu, Fri and Saturday. Then last night fell down a set of stone stairs in the pub! Twat. Just slipped and bosh bosh bosh down I go. Fuck me I'm sore this morning. Why do injuries always come in twos? Won't be sorry to see the back of this week.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on June 14, 2015, 01:51:06 pm
my TV blow up last night... :'( although it was older than my kids
 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 14, 2015, 04:51:21 pm
Sounds like a yyfy if it was that old. Excuse for an upgrade
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on June 14, 2015, 04:59:41 pm
Indeed, a few inches bigger, freeview and smart now ordered.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 06, 2015, 11:06:58 pm
Snapped hold + missed pad = bruised and hacked up elbow and bruised arse. I suspect I'll not be putting on a wetsuit this week.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 07, 2015, 08:04:01 am

Snapped hold + missed pad = bruised and hacked up elbow and bruised arse. I suspect I'll not be putting on a wetsuit this week.

Wuss!
A bit of ice cold salt water will do it the world of g.....


Agony.

The world of agony.


Seriously, bad Ju Ju, get well soon.


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 07, 2015, 08:08:48 am
I might just man up, first decent swell forecast in a while! Actually most of it feels OK now, just the spit on the tip of my elbow which is really smarting. Feeling it this morning I think my hip took most of the force. I'll check the video replay.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cowboyhat on July 07, 2015, 02:52:49 pm
Like most people everything that happens to me is my own fault and so I've never felt cause to post on this thread.

I am really annoyed about this one though.

http://tinyurl.com/onsq7yk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 07, 2015, 03:22:48 pm
LOL. We did a corporate highland games thing a few years ago, where one of the events was a sprint. I sprinted for the first time in about 25 or so years, came just about last, and was breathing through my arse like never before. I then sprained my groin on one side doing the tug of war, and the other side doing the cannon run. I literally couldn't walk the next day.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 07, 2015, 04:19:21 pm
Could I possibly invite you both in for a training review?

Or, just listen to Nibs.


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 08, 2015, 01:46:31 pm
... and then do the opposite.
 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cowboyhat on July 09, 2015, 12:07:27 pm
I thought sprints are for weight loss?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 09, 2015, 12:31:47 pm
I hope you sort yourself out for our ledge-shuffling week. When is the blog about cheating in foundry comps going up?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 09, 2015, 01:33:00 pm
Like most people everything that happens to me is my own fault and so I've never felt cause to post on this thread.

I am really annoyed about this one though.

http://tinyurl.com/onsq7yk

Well, if it is any consolation, I've just been thoroughly entertained, reading through your other blogs!

Loved this one: http://themightychickpea.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/meeting-your-heroes.html?m=1
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on July 09, 2015, 01:45:09 pm
Some fucking scrote has cracked one of our double-glazed windows.  Upstairs so likely throwing/kicking ball/stone at it.  Fucking dumb shit. 

>:( >:( >:( >:(

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 09, 2015, 02:23:23 pm
I thought sprints are for weight loss?
They are primarily for making you feel like the baddest mofo on Earth despite wearing lycra.
Then, they are for fat loss, muscle gain, power, explosiveness, CNS recruitment, etc.
Finally, although optional, they are to pull and strain muscles, as I've done twice this past winter.
A very well planned and specific warm up is absolutely de rigeur, with at least two sprints as the final specific warm up, each one leading with a different leg, given that the leg behind has the longer range of motion from a still position.
Hill sprints are much better and safer.
Good luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cowboyhat on July 10, 2015, 12:53:02 pm
I thought sprints are for weight loss?

Good luck.

With the recovery? Thanks, baddest mo fo or not I won't be doing a sprint again and certainly don't need to lose any weight.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 10, 2015, 01:18:30 pm
Some fucking scrote has cracked one of our double-glazed windows.  Upstairs so likely throwing/kicking ball/stone at it.  Fucking dumb shit. 

inside job?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 10, 2015, 02:35:52 pm
Some fucking scrote has cracked one of our double-glazed windows.  Upstairs so likely throwing/kicking ball/stone at it.  Fucking dumb shit. 

could be thermal shock at this time of year - crack with no obvious impact mark

possibly covered by a guarantee?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 10, 2015, 03:04:37 pm
I'd be amazed if a ball could break an upstairs double glazed window (unless it was a proper cricket ball, unlikely).

Our big dining room window gets regularly battered with cricket shots that leave it vibrating (plastic ball but pretty dense/heavy) and so far it's survived.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 10, 2015, 03:32:58 pm
pretty dense

don't hear that very often
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on July 10, 2015, 05:21:03 pm
I'd be amazed if a ball could break an upstairs double glazed window (unless it was a proper cricket ball, unlikely).

Our big dining room window gets regularly battered with cricket shots that leave it vibrating (plastic ball but pretty dense/heavy) and so far it's survived.

It hasn't.

Upon returning home and looking at it myself it transpires that my wife can't tell the difference between cracks on the outer and inner pane of glass.  These are on the inner and there is no indication of any impact on the outer pane so I owe the local scrotes an apology.

They were installed three years ago and I called the company today and explained what had happened (wife returned home to find them like that, no impact).  They very quickly retorted that "cold-cracking" (caused by contraction/expansion due to changes in temperature) was only covered by a one year guarantee and that the ten year guarantee only covers materials used in the frame and workmanship.  I asked for someone to come out and assess it but was told they didn't need to and would just get a quote sent out for replacing the glass (no idea how they seal/vacum the double glazing when its in situ).  I checked the temperatures and low Wed/Thursday was 8C high Thursday was 17C and I'd hazard a guess there have been greater differentials than that over the last three years.

Whether its "cold-cracking" or not I'm of the mind that glass shouldn't be breaking in such a manner within three years.  Done some reading and reckon it should be covered under the "Sales of Goods" act that states items should be "sufficiently durable" so will not be lying down.  The company are members of The Glass and Glazing Federation (http://www.ggf.org.uk/) who act provide a free "conciliation service" so that will be my first port of call if the company are being awkward.

Not exactly small cracks either they extend more than halfway down the height of the window...

(http://i.imgur.com/6IqTUxi.jpg)

Ballache to sort out who's responsible and also for the work to be done as there is stuff in that room which can't be moved out of the way without dismantling it and taking it out of the room.  >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 10, 2015, 05:24:01 pm
They'll measure up a new glass unit  - then come and fit it. Just unclip some plastic on the inside of the frame - couple of clips and swap it over. Sherioushly its a 5 min job if they have a replacement... Zero mess. Happened with mine when it was first fitted.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on July 10, 2015, 05:33:17 pm
Great if its a simple job reduces the hassle of clearing the space, however  I don't think I should be paying for it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: jonsse on July 10, 2015, 05:58:33 pm
Take one or two of beads that hold the glass in off, start at in the middle with paint scraper type thing then old chisel or something to un clip it. They just 'pop' off. Its hard to damage them.
If the unit is tight up against the frame inside then its defo installers fault ( there should be 5mm ish gap all around for expantion(sp.?) .
Personally think the cold shock thing is bollox otherwise it'd happen all the time ??, plus it prob. should be toughened if its a window you could fall into.(building regs.)
To put the beads back on, bend it in the middle, put each end into its corner and tap with rubber hammer till it all clicks back onto place.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on July 27, 2015, 11:58:15 am
Turns out the driver from my hit-and-run yesterday (see my Power Club post for farcical details) was uninsured so, as I only have third party insurance, I can't claim.

But my premium will increase as a result of contacting my insurers about it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wood FT on July 27, 2015, 12:01:47 pm
Turns out the driver from my hit-and-run yesterday (see my Power Club post for farcical details) was uninsured so, as I only have third party insurance, I can't claim.

But my premium will increase as a result of contacting my insurers about it.

Can't be sure but it's worth having a word with the Motor Insurers Bureau to see if they'll cover your damages.

http://www.mib.org.uk/Submit+a+Claim/en/Default.htm

 It won't help your premium but it will take the sting out of the wallet.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sxrxg on July 27, 2015, 02:02:23 pm
From the fracture pattern you can tell that the glass is not toughened (not a legal requirement unless the glass is within specific zones defined in the building regulations). As the glass is not toughened thermal fracture could still be the cause - the fracture will be exactly at 90° to the edge if thermal fracture is the cause (this cannot be seen in the photo due to the frame).

From the cracking in the picture however it would appear that the glazing has been tight in the frame and the crack has occurred from pressure being exerted on the edge of the glass - this is an installation fault. When they come to remove the glazing you need to inspect the inside of the frame, where the crack has originated from, for any protruding screw heads (the most likely cause) or other hard object that would cause the glazing to be tight. You should also inspect the edge of the glass at the crack origin to see if there is any sign that a hard object has been pressing against the edge of the glass.

Depending on the installer and how they operate that may try to break the glass further and tell you this is to remove it from the frame, this does not need to be done and is merely to stop inspection of the insulating glass unit once it has been removed (if you see a dispute coming over replacement costs I would try and keep the broken unit). Also they may try and fob you off by saying that the compression of the glass is due to building movement, this can sometimes be the issue however it is very difficult for the installer to prove.

Generally if you stand your ground I can't see any decent installer damaging their reputation for the costs of replacing a single small insulating glass unit. As has already been stated it should only be a 15 minute job to replace and the glass should cost <£50 depending on the glass specification.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 27, 2015, 02:31:05 pm
Turns out the driver from my hit-and-run yesterday (see my Power Club post for farcical details) was uninsured so, as I only have third party insurance, I can't claim.

But my premium will increase as a result of contacting my insurers about it.

Time to find a lawyer?...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on July 27, 2015, 02:39:27 pm
Time to find a lawyer?...

I don't have any details about the driver unfortunately- the number plate on their car is simply not on insurance databases (I checked it on the road tax/ SORN website too- unknown) so I don't think there's anything I can do besides report the incident to the police, which I did yesterday.

Luckily the only damage to my car is to the bumper (it blends in even better with the rest of it now- it's a shitheap that I've scraped against a multitude of things over the years) so I'm just going to leave it until I replace the car in a few months.

Most importantly my girlfriend and I are uninjured- I have a bit of a stiff neck but nothing worse.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 27, 2015, 02:46:02 pm
Time to find a lawyer?...

I don't have any details about the driver unfortunately- the number plate on their car is simply not on insurance databases (I checked it on the road tax/ SORN website too- unknown) so I don't think there's anything I can do besides report the incident to the police, which I did yesterday.

Luckily the only damage to my car is to the bumper (it blends in even better with the rest of it now- it's a shitheap that I've scraped against a multitude of things over the years) so I'm just going to leave it until I replace the car in a few months.

Most importantly my girlfriend and I are uninjured- I have a bit of a stiff neck but nothing worse.

I suspect some claims lawyers would actively persue this - esp re stiff neck...
No worries if you want to let it be.. but if you don't I have Slopers number (I think he works for a company that amongst other things does this...)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 17, 2015, 11:38:19 pm
Went bouldering with HoseyB this evening.....jeez  :look:. Dunno whether I am going to die from trenchfoot or blood loss from multiple arm lacerations first  :ninja:



P.S. his stuff is pretty cool tho... ; )
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on August 18, 2015, 08:12:18 am
 :whip:??
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on September 15, 2015, 09:41:44 am
I'm posting on behalf of the guy who spent 2 years training for Action Directe then popped his finger on his first day on the route.  :slap: Gutted...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 15, 2015, 10:12:00 am
NOOOOO!!! That guy with the terrible haircut? Poor bastard.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 15, 2015, 10:14:02 am
What an idiot.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on September 15, 2015, 10:24:56 am
Life's a bitch.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Three Nine on September 15, 2015, 10:32:14 am
How do you know?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Doylo on September 15, 2015, 10:41:16 am
One of Dai Koyamadas entourage saw it happen at 6 in the morning and let me know .
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Three Nine on September 15, 2015, 10:45:24 am
Blimey
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 15, 2015, 10:51:14 am
 ;D
Anything newsworthy about AD happens at 6 a.m. innit?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 15, 2015, 03:34:08 pm
One of Dai Koyamadas entourage saw it happen at 6 in the morning and let me know .

Dai says Hai?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 21, 2015, 05:50:51 pm
There's a fucking Xmas tree up in the pub!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 21, 2015, 09:19:22 pm

There's a fucking Xmas tree up in the pub!

Shit mate!

That's bad.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on September 22, 2015, 07:27:13 am
Got up to go for a piss in the night, passed out after two steps and whacked my head on the floor. Came round straight away but have niggled my shoulder too  :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 22, 2015, 07:37:48 am
There's a fucking Xmas tree up in the pub!

Blimey. And theres me thinking David Hameron had a bad day...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on September 22, 2015, 08:23:16 am
There's a fucking Xmas tree up in the pub!

Our thoughts are with you at this difficult time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 22, 2015, 09:41:22 am
There's a fucking Xmas tree up in the pub!

which pub?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on September 22, 2015, 10:06:56 am
There's a fucking Xmas tree up in the pub!

which pub?
Probably this one..

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g60763-d424204-r122603465-Rolf_s_Bar_Restaurant-New_York_City_New_York.html
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on September 22, 2015, 10:08:09 am
(http://www.troyinteractivemetrics.com/fp_dev1/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/rolfs.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 22, 2015, 10:14:26 am
Oh my lord, nothing for the Sheffield clique to worry about though the pubs in sunny Oldham  :doubt:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 22, 2015, 10:19:04 am
thank goodness
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 22, 2015, 10:30:34 am
Got up to go for a piss in the night, passed out after two steps and whacked my head on the floor. Came round straight away but have niggled my shoulder too  :(

Not wise! You been for a checkup?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on September 22, 2015, 11:36:06 am

Got up to go for a piss in the night, passed out after two steps and whacked my head on the floor. Came round straight away but have niggled my shoulder too  :(

Not wise! You been for a checkup?
thinking about popping down the docs later, yes. Developed a bit of a sore neck now too, closest I can equate it to is taking a bit hit falling on my snowboard in the park.


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 22, 2015, 04:12:50 pm
I've passed out having a piss before. Woken up lying flat on my back in a locked bathroom with my Hampton still out...  Was very confusing for a minute or two.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on September 22, 2015, 04:55:10 pm
Luckily the lad was still in the barracks. But very confusing as you say.


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: filz on September 23, 2015, 01:28:19 pm
I've passed out a couple of times or three, always without consequences except a few bruises.

Last time at a wedding party.
I woke up surrounded by doctors (both the bride and the groom are doctors, so a lot guests were too) and with Nibs and another friend  holding my legs high... Doctors' suggestion.

In my defense I hadn't yet drank anything yet, and I had to spend the party completely sober  :'(

Oh and after the first time I stopped locking the bathroom door!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on September 23, 2015, 01:46:37 pm
I'll try and remember the legs thing next time then. Or, more accurately, I might tell my other half about it so she can do it whilst i am flat out!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on September 23, 2015, 03:48:12 pm
Only happened to me once, on exiting a cafe in Rotterdam ...  :whistle:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: filz on September 23, 2015, 03:56:58 pm
The general suggestion is, if you feel you are going to faint, lay down with your legs raised to encourage blood flow to the brain.
In this way you probably won't faint.

But I've never been conscious long enough to put it into practice  ;).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on September 23, 2015, 04:50:06 pm
With a couple of days left to go of my DWS holiday in Mallorca, I picked up a bit of lurgey (thanks Sam) and have ended up with one completely blocked ear. I have zero hearing on that side, an unpleasant on-off ringing/roaring noise and a bit of vertigo. Perfect preparation for a week in the Verdon starting on Saturday! Went to the pharmacy who said go to my GP, went there but can only get an appointment with a practice nurse, who and I quote "can have a look but can't syringe it or anything." Anyone know a good witch doctor/got any old wives tales with a cure I can try before now and Saturday?  :boohoo:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 23, 2015, 04:52:11 pm
Got up to go for a piss in the night, passed out after two steps and whacked my head on the floor. Came round straight away but have niggled my shoulder too  :(

Whack to the head = trip to the doctors. No ifs, no buts. ESPECIALLY if you passed out!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on September 23, 2015, 04:58:24 pm
Quote
Anyone know a good witch doctor/got any old wives tales with a cure I can try before now and Saturday?

When I have had this I have just had to wait it out. It has taken 1 or 2 weeks to return to normal previously.. The "drying drops" and stuff didn't seem to make any difference..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 23, 2015, 05:18:16 pm
With a couple of days left to go of my DWS holiday in Mallorca, I picked up a bit of lurgey (thanks Sam) and have ended up with one completely blocked ear. I have zero hearing on that side, an unpleasant on-off ringing/roaring noise and a bit of vertigo. Perfect preparation for a week in the Verdon starting on Saturday! Went to the pharmacy who said go to my GP, went there but can only get an appointment with a practice nurse, who and I quote "can have a look but can't syringe it or anything." Anyone know a good witch doctor/got any old wives tales with a cure I can try before now and Saturday?  :boohoo:

Blocked on the outside (wax) or inside (due to cold etc..) - if the latter any amount of syringing/things you stick in your ears will do nothing... If the former then get stuff for waxed up ears.

Be careful though - as a doctor once told a friend of mine "the smallest thing you should try and stick in your ears is your elbow"....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2015, 05:27:15 pm
I've heard a couple of drops of warm olive oil can remove wax blockage? Could be worse though, could be ear infection or labyrinthitis.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: measles23 on September 23, 2015, 07:05:07 pm
Anyone know a good witch doctor/got any old wives tales with a cure I can try before now and Saturday?  :boohoo:

If its as a result of a cold it will be blockage to the Eustachian tube as a result of nasal congestion - no amount of ear drops will make a difference.. Might hurt like fuck if it hasn't cleared before you fly

Best is to ask a pharmacist for an over-the-counter nasal decongestant, ideally a xylometazoline based one such as otrivine or pseudoephedrine such as Sudafed (also useful for crystal meth production unless you want the proper blue stuff ala WW..) (on that theme by far the most potent nasal decongestant is cocaine..)

Nasal drops are difficult to do well - follow the instructions and give it a good couple of minutes in one of the approved positions - the ET is way back so the drops have got to get in deep.

Traditional steam inhalation with Vicks or menthol works well too..

Not being a witch doctor, my usual fee of £777.77 applies..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: petejh on September 23, 2015, 07:09:16 pm
With a couple of days left to go of my DWS holiday in Mallorca, I picked up a bit of lurgey (thanks Sam) and have ended up with one completely blocked ear. I have zero hearing on that side, an unpleasant on-off ringing/roaring noise and a bit of vertigo. Perfect preparation for a week in the Verdon starting on Saturday! Went to the pharmacy who said go to my GP, went there but can only get an appointment with a practice nurse, who and I quote "can have a look but can't syringe it or anything." Anyone know a good witch doctor/got any old wives tales with a cure I can try before now and Saturday?  :boohoo:

Otex Express.

I used this stuff last year when I had a blocked ear and it sorted the problem. There's also Earex Advance which I tried but it didn't work.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 23, 2015, 08:39:18 pm
Sudafed have moved away from the good stuff because of that as Measles mentioned, but Boots own brand non-drowsy decongestant tablets are still a decent dose of pseudoephedrine hydrochloride - over the counter only, at Boots obviously

stack it with some caffeine and aspirin and you'll be flying

my fee is as Measles, but add 30% for good luck
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 23, 2015, 09:27:30 pm
Is there anything small/short term doses of Coke aren't good for? Except things that require you to be quiet or sit still etc..?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on September 23, 2015, 09:29:49 pm
I don't know but if I get busted I'm going to say that my online physician prescribed it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nutty on September 23, 2015, 10:52:44 pm
With a couple of days left to go of my DWS holiday in Mallorca, I picked up a bit of lurgey (thanks Sam) and have ended up with one completely blocked ear. I have zero hearing on that side, an unpleasant on-off ringing/roaring noise and a bit of vertigo. Perfect preparation for a week in the Verdon starting on Saturday! Went to the pharmacy who said go to my GP, went there but can only get an appointment with a practice nurse, who and I quote "can have a look but can't syringe it or anything." Anyone know a good witch doctor/got any old wives tales with a cure I can try before now and Saturday?  :boohoo:

If it's earwax, the otex express combi pack with the syringe bulb is amazing in my experience. I get big lumps of dried wax that will eventually completely block an ear and this sorts that out. I don't even have to use the drops, syringing with luke warm water does the trick. It's slightly disgusting what you flush out, but visibly shows why you couldn't hear. I'm not a doctor but just passing on what has worked well for me having suffered from this (the first time this happened I visited the doctor who syringed my ears but when it has reoccurred I've done it myself).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bubba on September 24, 2015, 06:41:34 am
Anyone know a good witch doctor/got any old wives tales with a cure I can try before now and Saturday?
If it's wax buildup then buy hydrogen peroxide from any supermarket pharmacy. You may want to dilute it a little. Lie on your side and pour that shit into your ear. You get some extremely satisfying fizzing as it melts through the wax. Use cotton buds to remove the smeg.

http://www.md-health.com/Ear-Wax-Removal-Hydrogen-Peroxide.html
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2015, 10:48:44 am
I've had that from surfing sometimes. Usually releases when you tip your head at a certain angle. Can be embarrassing if it happens during a meeting....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on September 24, 2015, 10:49:38 am
As someone who's had lots of problems in this area, you've stumbled on my area of expertise!


[Edit] if it's not one of the above...it's probably going to one of a few things:


1) Ear infection - pretty straightforward, your GP should be able to tell you by looking and give you some drugs to treat if needed though will probably tell you to rest, get lots of water etc.


2) Wax buildup - I've had this and my symptoms exactly matched yours, hearing gradually going until I eventually went totally deaf in both ears and also had weird off-balance feeling coupled with rumbling bass-y noises too.


Spoke to the doc and got told they don't syringe on-spec as a) it can damage your eardrums and b) sometimes it sorts itself out.


I had to wait 10 very depressing days during which I tried Otex, olive oil, warm olive oil, massaginy my ears, popping my ears and nothing helped. When I did eventually get them syringed the relief was immediate and I could have kissed the nurse that did it!


3) Something else - my family has a history of Meniere's Disease, but from what I gather you'd probably know if you had or were likely to get it.


As it goes I've had some hearing problems lately (tinnitus and loss of hearing in my left ear) which culminated in an MRI last week (quite a weird experience!) which thankfully was all clear, but the diagnosis seems to be "tough" and the treatment is "man up"...

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wood FT on September 24, 2015, 11:13:40 am
Dan, I went deaf in my ear once after DWS in Annecy (great stuff), I tried olive oil/otex/stabbing it but it just took time. Around one week after I got back it sorted itself out while I sat at work, the audio clarity washed over me in an awesome wave.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 24, 2015, 11:16:53 am
May I suggest that nows the time to watch Fiends entire back catalogue of bouldering vids  :punk:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2015, 11:24:32 am
I've had some hearing problems lately (tinnitus and loss of hearing in my left ear) which culminated in an MRI last week

I've got fairly severe tinnitus (worse in left than right) a culmination of 2 years in Artillery and too many noisy gigs and clubs with shit sound systems. Why did they recommend an MRI? I've never bothered about going to docs about it, from any reading online it seems like there's little you can do.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on September 24, 2015, 12:05:23 pm
Thanks for the advice and info everybody! Looks like both earholes are clogged up with wax, one worse than the other. Been given a mini syringe and told to put olive oil in every day which will soften the wax up. If it doesn't clear on its own I get them syringed in a couple of weeks time. Until then, I have to lump it.

My hearing has got pretty bad recently, which I put down to too much loud techno. This may mean I can hear Grimer again if syringing improves my hearing, is it a price worth paying? I very occasionally get vertigo, suffering quite a bit of it now the ears are blocked - there is a history of it on my maternal side. Hopefully this will clear up as well, the Verdon is going to be terrifying enough as it is!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on September 24, 2015, 12:08:50 pm
With a couple of days left to go of my DWS holiday in Mallorca, I picked up a bit of lurgey (thanks Sam) and have ended up with one completely blocked ear. I have zero hearing on that side, an unpleasant on-off ringing/roaring noise and a bit of vertigo. Perfect preparation for a week in the Verdon starting on Saturday!

I'd suggest abbing in to Ctuluh as your first route. Any 'blockages' will soon be removed by your body.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: jwi on September 24, 2015, 12:14:04 pm
yeah, and it's only 6c+ and all...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on September 24, 2015, 01:41:10 pm
I've had that from surfing sometimes. Usually releases when you tip your head at a certain angle. Can be embarrassing if it happens during a meeting....

Surfers "Brain Drain"?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2015, 01:47:56 pm
That would imply we have one.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on September 24, 2015, 02:55:50 pm
I've had some hearing problems lately (tinnitus and loss of hearing in my left ear) which culminated in an MRI last week

I've got fairly severe tinnitus (worse in left than right) a culmination of 2 years in Artillery and too many noisy gigs and clubs with shit sound systems. Why did they recommend an MRI? I've never bothered about going to docs about it, from any reading online it seems like there's little you can do.


More of a precaution apparently (and probably the benefit of going private) - the ENT specialist said there was a chance, albeit tiny, that there could be a tumour (which he assured me would be benign if they found one!) of some kind impacting the acoustic nerve.


As it went they found nothing - in fact the radiologist's comment on the scan said "the patient's brain is unremarkable"...so it's just a case of living with the tinnitus now.







Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2015, 03:53:43 pm
Ok. I could go private too.

Do everything you can to protect your ears because once it starts it can get worse quite quickly. I carry a set of docs proplugs in my wallet and put them in any time I think i need to, especially at gigs.

Some good info here.

http://tinnitus.org.uk/
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tregiffian on September 24, 2015, 04:05:29 pm
The NHS current kit, from Denmark, really works even for severe/profound hearing loss. Thank you blonde scientists in white lab coats - and Clement Attlee.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2015, 04:15:49 pm
The NHS current kit, from Denmark, really works even for severe/profound hearing loss. Thank you blonde scientists in white lab coats - and Clement Attlee.

Elaborate please? What kit?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 24, 2015, 04:57:44 pm
I had some great ear wax potion once from a chemists in Oz.. it had mild hydrogen peroxide in it, and you could hear it crackling in your ears as it bubbled away the wax. It felt oddly tingly and strangely pleasurable (in a scratching a scab kind of way)...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 24, 2015, 05:11:01 pm
I've had that from surfing sometimes. Usually releases when you tip your head at a certain angle. Can be embarrassing if it happens during a meeting....

Or in the grocery store while chatting up a girl....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tregiffian on September 24, 2015, 05:38:06 pm
The hearing aids that elderly people have lurking behind their ears with tiny tubes leading in towards the eardrum. My new one has a tiny bell on the inside end. I can now hear folk sitting to my left fairly well rather than having to twist around.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: measles23 on September 24, 2015, 07:55:20 pm
I've got fairly severe tinnitus (worse in left than right) a culmination of 2 years in Artillery and too many noisy gigs and clubs with shit sound systems. Why did they recommend an MRI?

We scan everyone with unilateral tinnitus or asymmetrical sensorineural hearing loss to look for acoustic neuromas, which are benign tumours of the nerve sheath - they are rare; pick-up rate from the scans about 1%, but although benign can cause problems and occasionally warrant surgery or radiotherapy..
If there's a good reason for the hearing loss (like shooting fuck-off big guns) I wouldn't scan you

The old adage for tinnitus was mtfu but things have moved on a bit - normal hearing aids are actually pretty good at settling it; otherwise you can get white noise or pure tone emitting aids that can train your brain to tune it out - cognitive behavioural therapy is also good but difficult to access in NHS - most NHS audiology departments will offer a tinnitus 'therapy' service to explore above options..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 24, 2015, 08:14:53 pm
I lost 90% of the hearing in one ear for about a week once - due to wax that took ages to budge (never use cotton buds in them - it just rams the stuff closer to the eardrum - let it come out of its own accord). Positives were that I slept fantastically if I slept on the hearing hear - as I could no longer hear MrsTT's night time snoring/chuntering/gurgling/plumbing noises ;)

-ves were - not being able to hear stuff obviously - but because you lose your stereo hearing - it becomes really hard to hear where someone is talking. This is fine if theres only one person - or you're watching the TV - but if you're in a 'busy' place like a pub etc.. its really really hard to hear what just one person is saying as its just a mashup of all the noises going on. I started to hate going out where there were loads of people around - of course being a sociopath didn't help either ;) Anyway, I never thought about that until it happened... Father in law is deaf in one ear - and hates busy places - now I know why...

/ramble
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on September 24, 2015, 10:48:01 pm
Look after your ears.  I have surfers ear in both ears plus bad hearing from too much loud music as a yoot and suffered from labyrinthitis for several years until I saw a proper ENT specialist who did a full diagnosis and the epley manouver.  I won't snorkel again or dive in to the sea or a pool to deep and have to wear plugs plus tea tree oil and post swim drying liquid every time I swim and surf.  There's a labyrinthitis thread on here somewhere that has some great advice on what to and what not not to do.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on September 24, 2015, 10:50:16 pm
Found it http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=21297.0 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=21297.0)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 25, 2015, 05:12:49 pm
So, as a mark of respect to cobblers and they're art (and hopefully lighten some lives a little), I hear by cry NNFN, for the death of these shoes...

Self re-soles by A.N.Xspurt.

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/25/2bf08717af925ad5c96c78c2b418ca0a.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/25/46852148f2cbc8276ebe0122c4cb5142.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/25/1275afc87f10d85c0e522e1a48edf128.jpg)



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dontfollowme on September 25, 2015, 05:33:59 pm
He hasn't heard of Llanberis resoles then?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 25, 2015, 05:53:46 pm
Nipples like a blind cobblers thumbs
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 25, 2015, 06:22:10 pm

So, as a mark of respect to cobblers and they're art (and hopefully lighten some lives a little), I hear by cry NNFN, for the death of these shoes...

Self re-soles by A.N.Xspurt.

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/25/2bf08717af925ad5c96c78c2b418ca0a.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/25/46852148f2cbc8276ebe0122c4cb5142.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/25/1275afc87f10d85c0e522e1a48edf128.jpg)



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh God! FFS! I got auto corrected!

*****Their*****

F#%ing W£@%stain iPhone...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 25, 2015, 08:04:42 pm
Climbing shoe, ski boot, ice boot for crampons.
Result.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Schnell on September 25, 2015, 08:29:16 pm
Anyone'd struggle to resole a shoe that's about 7 feet long like that one.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 02, 2015, 01:30:14 pm
The very evening that was my minor YYFY turned into a potentially major NNFN  :(

Tweaked my knee doing a rockover(ish) move. Something in the back, outer corner - it's now all mushy and sore.  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 07, 2015, 07:22:19 pm
Just out of curiosity I found out that I am actually only 169,5 cm tall and not 172 as I've always been told by doctors. Or I just shrunk.
Taking half a grade more for everyhing done.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 07, 2015, 07:24:06 pm
I would have thought all that dead hanging with weights would have made you taller!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on October 07, 2015, 09:02:01 pm

Just out of curiosity I found out that I am actually only 169,5 cm tall and not 172 as I've always been told by doctors. Or I just shrunk.
Taking half a grade more for everyhing done.

I've shrunk almost 2.5 cm between age 19 and 44.
They tell me my spine is fine.


Me thinks they lie.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cha1n on October 07, 2015, 10:25:20 pm
So there's hope that one day I can abuse people for lanking climbs and make up for all the heckling I've had over the years? Can't wait.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on October 08, 2015, 12:42:39 pm
As you get older, your hips tend to get wider and therefore waist size can increase without any weight gain. I think its to do the gradual compression of your spine but I might possibly have just made that up.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on October 08, 2015, 03:54:52 pm

As you get older, your hips tend to get wider and therefore waist size can increase without any weight gain. I think its to do the gradual compression of your spine but I might possibly have just made that up.

Don't care if you dreamt it,  it's a fantastic excuse for my condition and I'm keeping it.
[emoji6]


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 08, 2015, 06:40:11 pm
So there's hope that one day I can abuse people for lanking climbs and make up for all the heckling I've had over the years? Can't wait.

Just rise above them.

Its easy :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 08, 2015, 07:13:58 pm
As you get STRONGER, your SHOULDERS tend to get wider and therefore waist size can DECREASE without any weight gain.
FTFY.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on November 29, 2015, 07:31:10 pm
My iPad is 200 miles away, under a pillow  :furious:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 29, 2015, 07:43:13 pm
My iPad is 200 miles away, under a pillow  :furious:

password protected, right?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on November 29, 2015, 07:59:52 pm
Yes. Inconvenient, safe, not lost. Mrs Donkey's criteria for packing up and checking a room leaves a lot to be desired.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 29, 2015, 08:29:23 pm

I've shrunk almost 2.5 cm between age 19 and 44.
They tell me my spine is fine.


Me thinks they lie.


Over time discs compress, natural wear and tear, throw in a bit of kyphosis, doesn't sound so extreme to me.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on November 29, 2015, 10:09:42 pm
Left my manicure bag containing tape, nail file, moisturizer  etc. at the wall on Wednesday. Got it back today minus the expensive Climb On cream. Somebody actually had the nerve to look inside it, nick the expensive (used) stuff and hand the rest in. My faith in humankind is shattered.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on December 04, 2015, 06:48:38 am
Coming from one who has felt the pain of being dropped and moving on from it, I feel for both you and your son.  I was broken by getting dropped at about the same age.  For about 12-18 months I was broken, lack of faith in myself led to decreasing performance, which only seemed to confirm the decision.  Whatever you can do, build his confidence in himself. 

Issues with our kids are some of the hardest. Good Luck!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 04, 2015, 08:39:41 am
Same here, very brief experience in soccer with terrible outcomes, and a long career spent on the bench in basket. The level of paranoia that some coaches have, is mindblowing.
But I had and have and always will, the Iron.
All my ex team members have jelly arms and fat bellies.
I have veins on my traps and can still jump (broken knees permitting).
The Iron never lies and never judges.
Good luck with the little beast, I'm sure that he'll grow stronger.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 04, 2015, 08:57:17 am
Yup, I like looking at photos of the first rigby team from high school and seeing what fat fuckers they all are.

It's nearly winter though, at least powder snow doesn't choose you, you choose the powder.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 04, 2015, 09:06:55 am
I chose power.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 04, 2015, 09:29:55 am
Similar, just less fun.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 04, 2015, 01:02:06 pm
I went through a similar experience as your son, at about the same age.

I was in the Scottish Sailing Squad for around 4 years. We had to do winter training weekends (torture, ice cold dinghy sailing) and "represent" Scotland at national and international events.

I was never "top dog" - I was a bit immature and didn't have the natural knack that some had, but I was solidly in the top 5 in our class. That was, until I found booze, girls and partying.

One regrettable incident of such led to me being asked to quietly slip out of the squad. I was around 16iirc. That summer I tried to continue to race but I was slow, too heavy for the boat and not interested any more. After a couple of terrible results I jacked it all in much to the dismay of my father.

He was a keen sailor and had put a lot of time, effort and money into sailing. Later I took up mountain biking as it was waaaay more fun. I ended up competing in that, doing pretty well (not far off as well as in sailing) and enjoyed it a lot more because I could "train without training" i.e. just fucking about on the bikes with my mates was great fun and improved our riding.

My dad was never really interested in my biking. I think he was always a bit disappointed that I gave up sailing. We argued a lot between 17 and 21/22, as we were quite similar in many ways.

I think it's important to remember:

1) winning isn't everything - kids need to fail once in a while to learn life's lessons.
2) support is what's important. If he chooses to do nothing for a while, so be it. If he still wants to play maybe try to make him see the benefit of being the top-dog in a lower league. Maybe he could be team captain? Remind him that he can always rejoin the top tier if he improves.
3) be interested in whatever he chooses.

Also, remember that 6 months is still a long time in a 16 year olds mind, whereas it's a barely a blink for an adult.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 04, 2015, 02:10:22 pm
^this^

With the full knowledge that he won't understand it yet and getting to the bit where "With hindsight" takes over is going to be a battle he faces alone.

Tell him I've lost everything, more than once, had to start from zero and I'm still here.
Even had to make the decision to turn back 500mtrs short of a summit that took two years planning, three months travelling and more heart ache than I can describe to reach; in the full knowledge that we'd never have the opportunity again.
Crushed me for years (at 4am mainly), hardly think about it now.


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Grubes on December 04, 2015, 02:42:56 pm
Hi Toby,
Sorry to hear about this. I know quite a few people who have played in junior teams to a reasonable standard (guy who sits next to me's son was in Man u academy for 4 year).
If he is still serious about football and just having to deal with the rejection. It is worth pointing out many players have still done well after being dropped. The current Prem league top scorer was dropped by Sheff weds and had to work his way up non league. It is just a matter of not giving up.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 04, 2015, 08:27:02 pm
Indeed - and glad to see you also think Parasilla's is the 8th wonder of the world ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: petejh on December 04, 2015, 09:32:28 pm
Agreed it's going/gone that way for youths still at the 'indoor climbing' phase of climbing. Almost a separate past-time now. But I reckon the growth of indoors is aside from the continued popularity/growth of outdoor climbing. Unlike most sport where it's always the same layout of court/pitch/ring whatever just with ever more competitive opponents, the natural progression in climbing still is mostly not about a structured competition - the typical arc of an indoor climber is youngster does well indoors until mid-twenties when they get sick of it and want to explore outdoors (or give up entirely). I suspect that as long as there are mountains, cliffs and caves full of wonder and drilled holds that four-fifths of climbing's long-term appeal will lie outside teams and indoor competitions.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 12, 2015, 08:10:43 am
:( (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/aaf258deb9426acd6008d250691a6a4a.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on December 12, 2015, 08:53:22 am
Nasty, time to see if that EA cream can perform the miracles it's disciples claim
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 12, 2015, 09:15:31 am
It probably needs to stop bleeding first :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on December 12, 2015, 09:35:32 am
Are the two lines coming off the hole trails of blood or is it a truly massive flapper?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on December 12, 2015, 10:31:36 am
wtf! Whats that from tomtom? Looks nasty :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 12, 2015, 10:45:06 am
It'll get better fairly soon - similar (but smaller!) to one I had this summer. Rest and tape and a few short weeks and you'll be right.

Maybe time to take up Total Fitness/David Lloyd etc on one of those 12 days for a few quid trials.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 12, 2015, 11:15:07 am
that's only one of Tom's injuries from yesterday

I was expecting a pic of his facial wound from trying to stop an airborne pad with his eye socket
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 12, 2015, 12:07:14 pm

that's only one of Tom's injuries from yesterday

I was expecting a pic of his facial wound from trying to stop an airborne pad with his eye socket

It's not too bad this morning thanks.. I even had to highlight where it is on this picture.. #adonis (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/b45ee455d25998184b6e81e7d5444e15.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 12, 2015, 12:09:43 pm
and the leg wounds?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 12, 2015, 12:12:09 pm
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/0d287575f2f76596cd78fd27bcc9a9b2.jpg)

No more requests as I'm starting to get some weird looks from others in the cafe I'm in (though there is some chest chaffage from the 'doing the worm' top out technique).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 12, 2015, 12:13:01 pm

Are the two lines coming off the hole trails of blood or is it a truly massive flapper?
left one is a cut/scratch - rh one is just a skin fold..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 12, 2015, 12:13:30 pm
no belly-scrape from your slide down?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 12, 2015, 12:14:50 pm
will you be allowed to play out with me again?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 12, 2015, 12:19:09 pm

wtf! Whats that from tomtom? Looks nasty :thumbsdown:

It's from Born Slappy - I had some fun topping out - the flappers from a big crystal I slapped on top of... At least I got the bloody problem after all that :)

Probably not helped by not being able to climb for the last week - soft skin etc...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 12, 2015, 12:20:04 pm

no belly-scrape from your slide down?

Bottom of the ribs.. And the left knuckles.. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/4a0ea93ab7dd66993ba15bbb603873d2.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 12, 2015, 12:31:40 pm
what was Mrs Tomtom's reaction to your injuries?

or have you tried to keep them hidden?

draw a picture of her reaction, please
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 12, 2015, 12:52:56 pm
Probably not helped by not being able to climb for the last week - soft skin etc...

That's how flappers happen, skin around callouses beginning to soften.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 12, 2015, 01:06:51 pm

what was Mrs Tomtom's reaction to your injuries?

or have you tried to keep them hidden?

draw a picture of her reaction, please

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/af3999c40adf2f92094e32e5fc5d2243.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on December 12, 2015, 04:49:11 pm
Wednesday afternoon at work, call from Frau M: drop whatever you're doing, drive to Austria & collect M jnr from the school ski trip, he's broken both wrists.

Lunchtime today, driving to the woods to go for a walk with M jnr - because that's the limit of his athletic possibilities for the next six weeks - old codger pulls out of a side street and rams me. Nobody hurt, but my offside rear door throughly caved in.

He was in a Passat TDi, probably couldn't see me through the clouds of deadly smoke billowing out of his exhaust.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on December 13, 2015, 05:07:42 pm
Shit mate - hope the wrists are an easy fix :-(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on December 13, 2015, 06:34:48 pm
Orthopaedist is happy with them, but they keep them in plaster for six weeks these days. Iirc it was only three when I broke a wrist at his age.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on December 14, 2015, 07:18:09 am
Radius both sides. One hairline, one with some displacement that was set at the hospital in Austria. Off to our local orthopaedist now to check that it's all still properly aligned.

Both wrists at the same time really is a bummer but he's handling it well and being thankful for small victories: managed to put his own teeshirt on yesterday.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 14, 2015, 08:24:14 am


: managed to put his own teeshirt on yesterday.

I have a perfectly healthy 7 year old who struggles with that...


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 14, 2015, 08:26:48 am
Both wrists at the same time really is a bummer but he's handling it well
I see what you did there...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 14, 2015, 10:32:55 am
Off to our local orthopaedist now to check that it's all still properly aligned.


A good idea. I broke my Radius age 6 and had it "set" by a doctor in South Africa. He didn't get it quite straight and it has been susceptible to injury ever since.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 14, 2015, 11:22:54 am

He was in a Passat TDi, probably couldn't see me through the clouds of deadly smoke billowing out of his exhaust.

I had my T5 in for an MOT on Thursday, and the guy said it passed emissions test, I said "did it really though?!" He wasn't amused.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on December 14, 2015, 11:51:47 am
Off to our local orthopaedist now to check that it's all still properly aligned.


A good idea. I broke my Radius age 6 and had it "set" by a doctor in South Africa. He didn't get it quite straight and it has been susceptible to injury ever since.

I work on the assumption that a Bones at a clinic in a ski area probably knows what he's doing with such things, but it certainly doesn't hurt to get it double checked.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 14, 2015, 01:56:04 pm
Actually it might hurt a bit...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on December 14, 2015, 06:37:34 pm
Good to know, thanks.

I seem to recall having a chat with you a while back about wrist protectors in snowboarding gloves. My son doesn't have them, and after the accident I mentioned to his teacher that we should probably get some. Not recommended for juveniles any more, sez he: the energy has to go somewhere. Better to sacrifice the wrist as a crumple zone that generally heals well, than protect the wrist and instead snap important parts of the elbow. (He mentioned some particularly vulnerable part of the elbow that I've forgotten the German name of and wouldn't know in English anyway)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 14, 2015, 06:47:32 pm
I'm not entirely sure about what the teacher said. The aim of the wrist protectors is neither to absorb the impact nor to direct the energy towards the elbow. Good wrist protectors should simply allow the wrist to slide down the surface dispersing the energy in that way.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 14, 2015, 07:06:37 pm
I bust a wrist snowboarding without protectors (icy Vermont conditions) - well I didnt get it Xrayed (2nd to last day) just strapped it up and it went various shades of purple over the next two weeks...

Since then I have ALWAYS worn protectors - seems nuts not to to me.. love to see the biomechanics SCIENCE behind the decision not to use them..

I'm shit at boarding - so always falling.. just seems to make sense to me...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on December 14, 2015, 07:47:52 pm
I've always worn Levels with wrist protectors, but my son switched from skiing - where he obviously never used them - and I went with what seems to be the general consensus over here of kids not wearing them.

Tbh as he's getting interested in fun parks - inevitably at his age - I'm more concerned about spine protectors.

UPDATE: seems you guys are right and my son's teacher is wrong (http://www.ski-injury.com/prevention/wrist_guards). We should probably move any further discussion to the snooooowboarding thread.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 14, 2015, 08:57:24 pm
Given the vulnerability of all those little Epiphyseal plates throughout the wrist and hand of a growing human and the more than accepted, science backed, wisdom; that damage there during the strenuous activity of climbing is likely to have lasting debilitating effects...

Protectors seem like a good idea.
My kids wear them for skating and BMX and that seems to be accepted practice in those sports and many others; with the logic stated by Nibs above.

[emoji848][emoji53]
 


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Scouse D on December 21, 2015, 12:04:01 pm
Broke my leg last Tuesday playing football. External dislocation internal fracture ie ankle  bone sticking out of leg. Currently in bed feeling Shit from being full of antibiotics fighting off some additional skin infection in the leg.
Prognosis 6 weeks non weight bearing and 6 weeks partial.
Gonna have a fucked ankle for long time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 21, 2015, 12:06:57 pm
Christ that sounds grim! Thanks for not posting pics.

Good luck with the healing.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatneck on December 21, 2015, 12:11:29 pm
 :agree:

Good luck getting better Dave!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 21, 2015, 12:19:41 pm
Poor Scouse  :(

At least you've chosen the worst winter in the history of bouldering to take time out.

Prognosis sounds like a normal timescale to me.

I'm trying to think of *anyone* I know personally who has had a bad lower limb fracture and not got back into climbing at least as strongly as previously, and I can't.

Good luck and heal well.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Scouse D on December 21, 2015, 12:24:30 pm
Ta everyone. That's good to hear fiend. Cheers.
Will feel Shit loads better once um off these antibiotics, will be able to get more up and about.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on December 21, 2015, 12:31:29 pm
Christ that sounds grim! Thanks for not posting pics.

Believe me the xrays alone are bad enough. OOOOOF.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tregiffian on December 21, 2015, 01:19:44 pm
I know it isn't in your hands but, from experience, the sooner you get weight on the ankle the better.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: T_B on December 21, 2015, 01:39:28 pm
Sh*t Dave, that's terrible. Hope it heals well and soon.

Who's your consultant? Chris Blundell seems to be the considered the best ankle man in Sheffield. When it comes to starting weight bearing, different people have very differing ideas in my (wife's - dislocation and fracture of ankle) experience.

As Fiend said, there are a lot of people around for whom this type of injury has become the catalyst for  :weakbench:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Scouse D on December 21, 2015, 01:50:38 pm
Well I saw you campussing with your cast on and I'm keeping that as my inspiration! My op was done in Chesterfield so not sure what the physio situation is like. Both you and your wife are going great guns, maybe this is the break I needed...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: T_B on December 21, 2015, 01:57:04 pm
It's the consultant who'll sign off when you can start weight bearing. Thesedays you can choose who your consultant is, but it depends where you live as to what's practical - Blundell is at the Northern General. Good orthopaedic team there.

V early days for you I know but when it does come to the physio, more focus on addressing the inevitable imbalance between legs (so not just how mobile or not the ankle is) and less on my campussing ability would have been sensible, in hindsight. Something to keep in mind. I now have a v dominant right side and associated 'issues' building up no doubt.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on December 21, 2015, 02:00:11 pm
the break I needed...

A break like that could have radically improved your footless skills.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 21, 2015, 02:59:51 pm
Shit Scouse - thats terrible :(

Hope its a straightforward (as can be) recovery...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Lopez on December 21, 2015, 03:27:01 pm
T_B's advice is very wise Scouse.

Honestly, do whatever you have to do to find the best Doctor you can get and head straight to him. Any doctor who tells you to spend 6 weeks non-weight bearing and who doesn't refer you for physio immediately should be shot in the knees with a 12 bore gun and be demoted to clean puke and toilets in the Hospital wards for the rest of his life, unpaid, while dwarfs in S&M outfits flog him with whips, and tazers, and... well, you get my drift...  :spank: :whip:

And get yourself a Beastmaker and a good periodization plan.  :weakbench:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on December 21, 2015, 05:10:15 pm

Honestly, do whatever you have to do to find the best Doctor you can get and head straight to him.

How do you know it's a bloke?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 21, 2015, 06:01:31 pm
that's a bit shit, Scouse

I did my physio at the Hallamshire - starting in the pool and then working with their Lower Limb Rehab class

I was impressed with being taken seriously about what I wanted to be able to do and they actually pushed me harder than I expected

early morning appointments worked well - this seems to be when other people can't be arsed to turn up, so you get more attention and longer sessions
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Lopez on December 21, 2015, 06:18:04 pm

Honestly, do whatever you have to do to find the best Doctor you can get and head straight to him.

How do you know it's a bloke?

I don't. What's the politically correct form of addresing these type of genre ambiguity sentences nowadays? Him/Her? It? The quack?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Scouse D on December 21, 2015, 06:22:41 pm
Cheers everyone. I've got a follow up tomorrow to check out infection. Might get a chance to ask about it then
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F V2.0 on December 21, 2015, 06:43:05 pm
Cheers everyone. I've got a follow up tomorrow to check out infection. Might get a chance to ask about it then

I hope you recover well. Keep the psyche up by training as soon as you can. When I mashed my ankle 18 years ago I found it hard to land safely for a long time after it had healed, so be aware the mental damage may well take longer than the physical recovery.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 22, 2015, 08:49:30 am

Honestly, do whatever you have to do to find the best Doctor you can get and head straight to him.

How do you know it's a bloke?

I don't. What's the politically correct form of addresing these type of genre ambiguity sentences nowadays? Him/Her? It? The quack?

"head straight to them?"
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 22, 2015, 11:30:00 am
Cheers everyone. I've got a follow up tomorrow to check out infection. Might get a chance to ask about it then

I fractured my ankle when I was 16 (quite minor really) but then went over it really badly about 10 years ago bouldering at Bowden. Since then I've been very prone to going over it, but it doesn't stop me doing anything really.

About 8 weeks ago I went over again really badly on my bike. I'm back bouldering etc. but hillwalking (i.e. getting to winter climbs) is a bit torturous just now.

Yesterday the physio had a good look at it and it turns out I have a suspected grade 3 lateral laxity. He still thinks there's not much chance a surgeon would even bother fixing it, so it's all about the balance ball for me!

Once you get to the physio stage, keep at it - it'll get there eventually!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on December 22, 2015, 12:54:53 pm
Cheers everyone. I've got a follow up tomorrow to check out infection. Might get a chance to ask about it then
Keep the faith, so long as you get good recovery and physio as other have suggested on here, you should be fine.

I witnessed Chris Sowden back in the day doing what sounds like a pretty similar injury to yourself at the Rothwell wall and if I recall correctly, he came back pretty much as strong as before at the time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sxrxg on December 26, 2015, 02:46:50 pm
Had a bit of a sore throat Christmas eve which got steadly worse and resulted in me being admitted to hospital on Christmas day. Lots of iv drugs overnight, a massive needle to the back of the throat and now feeling much better. Has put paid to any climbing over the next few days though. Also sucked missing Christmas day with my 1 year old and the missus.

Hope everyone else had a better Christmas than I did!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 30, 2015, 05:30:51 am
Sucks. At least the one year old was oblivious.

I'm currently not sleeping due to Storm Frank raging outside, and have been since about 2:30. And looking after kids plus trying to work from home in the morning. Should be fun.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 30, 2015, 08:23:46 am
I'm currently not sleeping due to Storm Frank raging outside,

time to launch air strikes against Iceland - that's where Frank is being hosted
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 30, 2015, 09:25:52 am

I'm currently not sleeping due to Storm Frank raging outside,

time to launch air strikes against Iceland - that's where Frank is being hosted


This might prove redundant.
Since the shipping forecast is predicting Force 12 (Hurricane) winds across the sea areas between Iceland and Scotland, I expect they will be a tad busy with their own worries.

I'm hoping for the best, for all of you up north. The winds here in the south are already ridiculous, keeping me awake since 5 (watching the Horse Chestnuts that loom over our house, twenty feet across the road, wildly raving like puppies on Acid).


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: spid3rz on December 30, 2015, 08:45:30 pm
None climbing related.. Just moved into our new house! Got Sky installed today...
(http://i64.tinypic.com/25k0i6b.jpg)

He managed bang centre of the pipe!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 30, 2015, 08:55:07 pm
fucknidiot. Kick their asses.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on December 31, 2015, 10:08:46 am
Ta everyone. That's good to hear fiend. Cheers.
Will feel Shit loads better once um off these antibiotics, will be able to get more up and about.

That sucks, bad luck. All I can say is that the Ortho care I got in Sheffield (Dennison / Royston at the Northern) was top notch and you feel a lot less bad about it all when you sit in a waiting room with the motorcycle accidents held together with Meccano seeing how bad it can really get!

...and just look at Ben D if you want to look at an injury comeback!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on December 31, 2015, 04:58:34 pm
None climbing related.. Just moved into our new house! Got Sky installed today...
(http://i64.tinypic.com/25k0i6b.jpg)

He managed bang centre of the pipe!!

I put a floorboard nail through a central heating pipe once. Then quickly took it out again.

One of these mistakes is worse than the other.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 31, 2015, 11:54:51 pm

None climbing related.. Just moved into our new house! Got Sky installed today...
(http://i64.tinypic.com/25k0i6b.jpg)

He managed bang centre of the pipe!!

I put a floorboard nail through a central heating pipe once. Then quickly took it out again.

One of these mistakes is worse than the other.

While getting the Bunker ready for opening, Polly decided to help by cutting some floorboards to locate a central heating leak.

By starting at the hole where the pipe went through.

She very carefully sawed right through the copper central heating pipe, a cold water plastic pipe and a good way into the steel gas mains pipe.

Almost simultaneously, Chris put the circular saw through a bundle of ~20 lighting cables.

It was like full damage control stations on a frigging Warship in battle for a few seconds.

And then,

distressingly,

quiet.

And

Very dark.


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on January 01, 2016, 12:59:35 am
Broke my leg last Tuesday playing football. External dislocation internal fracture ie ankle  bone sticking out of leg. Currently in bed feeling Shit from being full of antibiotics fighting off some additional skin infection in the leg.
Prognosis 6 weeks non weight bearing and 6 weeks partial.
Gonna have a fucked ankle for long time.

Ouch, get well soon Dave.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 04, 2016, 07:59:57 pm
Last night, the first ship I designed and built (M/Y Barbie) was badly (probably total) damaged when the ship moored beside it caught fire.
It feels strangely gutting.

An oddly personal loss.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=_IUBe9a-VTU



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sxrxg on January 07, 2016, 06:58:58 am
Went back to work on Monday siked to knuckle down and work hard now I have finished the majority of my university assignments, also really felt ready to get back to a decent amount of climbing with having more free time in the evenings. I was especially glad to be feeling well after my hospitalisation over christmas, instead I got a tickly sore throat coming back on Monday that turned into being unable to breath, swallow etc over a 5 hour period when going to bed Monday night. Ended up in A and E early tuesday morning and now I'm currently hooked up to iv antibiotics and steroids 3 days later. Shit way to start the new year, hopefully this time though they will get to the bottom of it (had an MRI scan so they seem to be taking things more seriously this time) and stop it coming back again even if this means a small op.

This is now the longest break I have had from climbing in over 5 years. Anyone got any tips for when I can get back to it?

Finally sorry for the rant, I am usually a lurker and not much of a poster (unless I feel I have very specific knowledge on a subject) just very bored in hospital and needed the rant!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Lopez on January 07, 2016, 07:34:14 am
I'm currently hooked up to iv (...) steroids 3 days later.

Get on that finger/campus board pronto!  :weakbench:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 07, 2016, 07:55:53 am
That doesn't sound any fun :( I'm often surprised how quickly 80-90% of my climbing ability comes back after a great. That last 5-10% takes a while - but does come back...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatneck on January 07, 2016, 08:20:28 am
Bad shit Ste! I suppose the answer to your questions is probably, when you feel up to it! I had bronchitis or something similar that saw me off work for nearly three months (and unable to do anything meaningful for a month) a few of years ago. Once I felt up for it, a couple of short tester sessions helped me assess when I was well enough. Good luck man!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 07, 2016, 09:57:21 am
Get well soon mate!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on January 09, 2016, 10:20:12 am
I got told yesterday that I'm moving to London again in March for 6 months. That's two spring/summers in a row now.

Perfect way to not climb much again and fuck up my savings.

Why isn't Malham down south?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on January 09, 2016, 10:31:53 am
Who has made this decision?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on January 09, 2016, 10:57:06 am
I'm on a graduate scheme so don't have much say. I was hoping for Edinburgh this time around but unfortunately the majority of roles are in London. It'll be over by September though and I can have some more control over my life again...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on January 09, 2016, 11:02:50 am
I'm at kings kiss now, getting out of London after 3 days, I've been here 3 days to long.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on January 09, 2016, 11:35:56 am
I'm on a graduate scheme so don't have much say. I was hoping for Edinburgh this time around but unfortunately the majority of roles are in London. It'll be over by September though and I can have some more control over my life again...

Font is closer....just sayin'
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rodma on January 10, 2016, 11:10:57 am
I'm on a graduate scheme so don't have much say. I was hoping for Edinburgh this time around but unfortunately the majority of roles are in London. It'll be over by September though and I can have some more control over my life again...
Edinburgh is like being cast out into the wastelands if you like climbing.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on January 14, 2016, 12:04:42 pm
Been having  trouble with side effects from some steroids I've been put on - got quite twitchy and anxious plus suffering from muscle weakness and lethargy which messed up my second week climbing in Spain. I also seem to have picked up a minor elbow tweak. Found out today the consultant/pharmacy ballsed up and I was only meant to be on the roids for a week instead of the past month, meaning I  needn't have had all this aggro. Quite chuffed that I haven't lost my rag about it though!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 14, 2016, 02:21:54 pm
Luck you didn't deck the fucker when he told you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wood FT on January 14, 2016, 02:48:49 pm
Been having  trouble with side effects from some steroids I've been put on - got quite twitchy and anxious plus suffering from muscle weakness and lethargy which messed up my second week climbing in Spain. I also seem to have picked up a minor elbow tweak. Found out today the consultant/pharmacy ballsed up and I was only meant to be on the roids for a week instead of the past month, meaning I  needn't have had all this aggro. Quite chuffed that I haven't lost my rag about it though!

Are you not pretty stacked now though word?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duncan campbell on January 14, 2016, 02:52:25 pm
Been having  trouble with side effects from some steroids I've been put on - got quite twitchy and anxious plus suffering from muscle weakness and lethargy which messed up my second week climbing in Spain. I also seem to have picked up a minor elbow tweak. Found out today the consultant/pharmacy ballsed up and I was only meant to be on the roids for a week instead of the past month, meaning I  needn't have had all this aggro. Quite chuffed that I haven't lost my rag about it though!

Are you not pretty stacked now though word?

the loss of precious inches cancels the guns out though yo
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on January 14, 2016, 04:53:53 pm
Unfortunately these are the wrong kind of roids to turn me into the Incredible Hulk. Or Gus. :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: abarro81 on January 25, 2016, 11:20:37 am
Some thieving mutha fuckers nicked and burnt out my pimp ass wheels in the early hours of Sunday morning (I guess the problem with having a ride as desirable as a leaking 1991 Micra is its a high value target)... Being worth no money and with me needing to dispose of it in the next few weeks anyway this was funny asuxh as annoying... Until it turns out it's a £250 quid recovery fee even if I don't want the fucker back!
Fucking plebs.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Schnell on January 25, 2016, 11:48:08 am
I broke my finger a few weeks ago in an unfortunate accident. At the time I felt pretty sorry for myself but the healing timeframe of 3-6 weeks at least didn't sound too bad. Two weeks on I've just been diagnosed with an infection in the injured bone (osteomyelitis) and the time expected to heal has extended outwards quite a bit.  :thumbsdown: (incidentally that emoji accurately represents both how I feel and how big the swollen digit is at the moment!)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chris20 on January 25, 2016, 11:59:29 am
Some thieving mutha fuckers nicked and burnt out my pimp ass wheels in the early hours of Sunday morning (I guess the problem with having a ride as desirable as a leaking 1991 Micra is its a high value target)... Being worth no money and with me needing to dispose of it in the next few weeks anyway this was funny asuxh as annoying... Until it turns out it's a £250 quid recovery fee even if I don't want the fucker back!
Fucking plebs.

I feel your pain, some fucker nicked my 1989 ford escort a few years ago and wrote it off although I wasn't planning on getting rid of it, it had done 210,000 and I wanted to see how far it could go
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on January 25, 2016, 01:01:16 pm
Some thieving mutha fuckers nicked and burnt out my pimp ass wheels in the early hours of Sunday morning (I guess the problem with having a ride as desirable as a leaking 1991 Micra is its a high value target)... Being worth no money and with me needing to dispose of it in the next few weeks anyway this was funny asuxh as annoying... Until it turns out it's a £250 quid recovery fee even if I don't want the fucker back!
Fucking plebs.

Fuck. Didn't realise this shit still happened!  Little bastards.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on January 26, 2016, 04:45:10 pm
Most expensive dessert ever. 

Sunday evening: I was celebrating a good weekend's efforts at Almscliff and the Depot with a date slice (from the farm shop near Almscliff). Crunched on a fragment of date stone and fractured a tooth.  Got an emergency dental appointment which removed the fragment and put a temporary cap on the tooth - and was told that to save the tooth I will likely need root canal and a crown (and that is if it can be saved - follow-up appointment in a fortnight to see how the gum has healed).

Unfortunately, I am not currently registered with an NHS dentist (a couple of years ago, my previous dentist removed me from its register - their email asking me to arrange a check up was spam filtered and I didn't realise until too late) .  So, I am looking at a bill of around £1000 for private treatment... unless I can find a dentist actively taking new NHS patients.... the few I have found that are taking anyone at all, have 18-24 month waiting lists.   

Hey ho.... my own fault - I should have immediately put myself back on a waiting list when I became unregistered.  But even so..... £1000 for eating a date fkking slice! I thought reducing my power/weight ratio was the worst I could expect!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 26, 2016, 04:48:25 pm
Most expensive dessert ever. 

Sunday evening: I was celebrating a good weekend's efforts at Almscliff and the Depot with a date slice (from the farm shop near Almscliff). Crunched on a fragment of date stone and fractured a tooth.  Got an emergency dental appointment which removed the fragment and put a temporary cap on the tooth - and was told that to save the tooth I will likely need root canal and a crown (and that is if it can be saved - follow-up appointment in a fortnight to see how the gum has healed).

Unfortunately, I am not currently registered with an NHS dentist (a couple of years ago, my previous dentist removed me from its register - their email asking me to arrange a check up was spam filtered and I didn't realise until too late) .  So, I am looking at a bill of around £1000 for private treatment... unless I can find a dentist actively taking new NHS patients.... the few I have found that are taking anyone at all, have 18-24 month waiting lists.   

Hey ho.... my own fault - I should have immediately put myself back on a waiting list when I became unregistered.  But even so..... £1000 for eating a date fkking slice! I thought reducing my power/weight ratio was the worst I could expect!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qIMTA4_YdU

:(

Get a gold one! More sherioushly getting NHS registered can be hard in some places - in Manchester I was only able to join MrsTT's Dentist list when I got married.. (there are some benefits...)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: T_B on January 26, 2016, 04:50:37 pm
Get a cheap flight to Kathmandu and get a gold one fitted there for less than the cost of going private in the UK. Then go trekking/climbing ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on January 26, 2016, 05:05:16 pm
Aye - all reinforces my primitive belief in a "quantity theory of happiness" (to papraphrase a Will Self short story).  The sum total of goodness in your life reverts to a mean (which will hopefully be above zero longterm): YYFY! in one aspect of your life will be compensated for by a NNFN! in another. 

I paid off my mortgage recently, been climbing okay with no injuries (indoors mainly, but to be expected)... so expensive unpleasantness was guaranteed. d
Dammit.... if I had not sent that circuit at the Depot, I might have been safe!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: highrepute on January 26, 2016, 05:26:46 pm
Unfortunately, I am not currently registered with an NHS dentist (a couple of years ago, my previous dentist removed me from its register - their email asking me to arrange a check up was spam filtered and I didn't realise until too late) .  So, I am looking at a bill of around £1000 for private treatment... unless I can find a dentist actively taking new NHS patients.... the few I have found that are taking anyone at all, have 18-24 month waiting lists.   

Hey ho.... my own fault - I should have immediately put myself back on a waiting list when I became unregistered.  But even so..... £1000 for eating a date fkking slice! I thought reducing my power/weight ratio was the worst I could expect!

How many have you called? I had a similar situation ended up going to one in Dronfield, live in Sheffield, to see a dentist quickly. I called many many dentists before I found this one.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 27, 2016, 09:01:24 am
Get in touch with Dan Warren, he'll do you a tooth job in his shed.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on January 27, 2016, 02:50:28 pm
There should be a service telling you where there is capacity, try
http://www.nhs.uk/NHSEngland/AboutNHSservices/dentists/Pages/find-an-NHS-dentist.aspx
or
http://www.nhs.uk/Service-Search/Area-Team/LocationSearch/1839

What about the dental hospital? Or anything stopping you registering in a another city or rural location?

£1000 is worth a few phone calls.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on January 27, 2016, 03:20:16 pm
I have already been working my way through the search results of that website.  The vast majority of dentists in my area do not take NHS patients.  The few that do (in theory), on further inquiries, either don't, or have a 18-24 month waiting lists.  There are a few more further afield possibles I have not yet checked - most of them in the Bradford area and seeming to belong to a chain called "mydentist.com". 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on January 27, 2016, 03:33:32 pm
My girlfriend recently (last few months) got an NHS dentist in Skipton. Didn't seem to be any problems with waiting lists and she was registered and had an appointment within a few weeks of first calling.

Have you tried the ones around here? I'll ask her after work which is was and let you know if you want?


Also - interested to hear how you found the depot circuits (assuming you mean the circuit board)? I've been training a lot more on the fingerboard over December/January and had a play on the new circuits yesterday. The woods (7a+/b) and black (7c) seemed too easily attainable for my normal sport grade. But without a benchmark I can't tell if training is working a lot or they're just hugely soft....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on January 27, 2016, 04:10:13 pm
Skipton dentists are next on the list......

That said, I am tempted to first wait for the result of the follow-up visit  - to the dentist that did the emergency repair.  It might be that the tooth is irretrievable anyway.  Also, if I could reduce the cost of any treatment required slightly by signing up with a scheme at that dentist, I might be tempted.  They are pretty highly regarded locally and conveniently nearby  -  which would encourage me to keep up my appointments and be less cavalier with these matters.  With my job, repeatedly visiting somewhere further away might be counterproductive in the grand scheme of things - cost in missed work, getting time off etc (even with an NHS dentist, the work I will need will cost around £250).

Re the circuits (at the Leeds Depot), they are likely softer than usual but not outrageously so (though, if your point of reference is routes at Leeds Wall, I imagine they would seem very soft - I can barely climb 7a there).  I would wait until you seriously try linking them before making any judgements.  The black in particular has a sting in the tail - I dropped the same move at the finish (coming into an undercut) around 6-7 times before finally sending it.  The only one that seems notably out-of-kilter is the orange 7c+8a - I had a quick play and it seems no harder than the 7c - the finish along the bottom is certainly easier - just a few nasty moves at the volume in the upper-right-hand corner (could not really give it a good go as I had a knackered foot - unwilling to fall off the top too many times).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on January 27, 2016, 04:41:37 pm
Yeah give them a go - always good to have as a backup anyway!

No point of reference really as I've not climbed much in the way of routes for a long time. Just the odd trip up to Malham in the Autumn. Living in London until September put a stop to most climbing unfortunately!
I managed the black circuit up to that undercut move on my second go (after trying the bottom section once too) but completely ran out of juice there. Though after a 30 second shake I could get back on the bottom right of the wall and climb the bottom section including the crux move okay. I gave the orange a quick go but didn't get very far - it's one for next time.

I've only done one 7b+/c and that was a year or so ago and any 7c has seemed desperate since so I was hugely shocked yesterday to nearly do that one in a few goes. I assumed it must have actually been more in the 7a/+ range but maybe my training is actually working...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on January 27, 2016, 04:58:39 pm
The dentist in Skipton was called "My Dentist" and seemed to be taking NHS patients on without any issues in December.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on January 27, 2016, 09:21:35 pm
Do the harder cicuits stick to the main left hand hand board? If so, I hope you're only using that board for both hands and feet, James.
Moose is on a final written warning for using the side wall on previous iterations.....you have been warned...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on January 27, 2016, 11:57:37 pm
 :rtfm:
Do the harder cicuits stick to the main left hand hand board? If so, I hope you're only using that board for both hands and feet, James.
Moose is on a final written warning for using the side wall on previous iterations.....you have been warned...

Well that's my shakeout gone. NNFN.
Round 2 tomorrow...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 03, 2016, 10:32:31 pm
Had my third session on Red Baron Roof tonight and connies were good. I'm at a point now where I can definitely do it. I was absolutely nailing the cut loose move tonight, in that the cut loose has now become optional (I find it easier to swing the right heel up into position with feet off and down). I did this four times, and then fell off four times on the next move going to the arête and up it. NNFN. I don't know what I did wrong, just seemed to loose body position and drop off.

And on the last go I fell off arse first and missed the pads and landed on my coccyx. Fucking ouch.

And I've torn big lumps out of my hands such that I won't have another session for about 3 weeks.

And then I dropped my phone and cracked the screen.

NNFN
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on February 04, 2016, 06:22:41 am
Blimey! That's an entire catalogue of NNFN's mate.

Lots of sitting about for you, but even that will be uncomfortable. I wish you a speedy recovery!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on February 04, 2016, 09:27:06 am
Woken by a mouse in my suitcase in my hotel room last night at about 3am. Probably a lowercase nnfn although it did manage to get in to my bag of Liquorice Allsorts which I found a bit upsetting at the time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 04, 2016, 12:09:41 pm

Woken by a mouse in my suitcase in my hotel room last night at about 3am. Probably a lowercase nnfn although it did manage to get in to my bag of Liquorice Allsorts which I found a bit upsetting at the time.

Well, leave the mouse a home next time.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on February 04, 2016, 12:47:22 pm

Woken by a mouse in my suitcase in my hotel room last night at about 3am. Probably a lowercase nnfn although it did manage to get in to my bag of Liquorice Allsorts which I found a bit upsetting at the time.

Well, leave the mouse a home next time.

Yep, was short of space anyway, the mouse is usually a luxury as a travelling companion....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 04, 2016, 01:23:14 pm

Woken by a mouse in my suitcase in my hotel room last night at about 3am. Probably a lowercase nnfn although it did manage to get in to my bag of Liquorice Allsorts which I found a bit upsetting at the time.

Well, leave the mouse a home next time.

Yep, was short of space anyway, the mouse is usually a luxury as a travelling companion....

Mouse in a suitcase eating liquorice? It sounds more like a missing verse from The Owl And The Pussycat than a post in NNFN.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: J.Kydd on February 04, 2016, 02:17:59 pm
My girlfriend and I do a spot of house & dog sitting for a (rather wealthy) couple when they go on holiday and get paid quite well for it.
We've been there since Sunday morning and they come back tonight.

On Sunday afternoon 2 of their 3 dogs (a Springer and a Border terrier) promptly disappeared from the garden/field and could not be found. NNFN
We then spent the entire afternoon/evening scouring the local area (rural Somerset, Quantock hills) shouting for them to no avail. NNFN
After 2 nights away, Indie the Springer has turned up home. Despite looking very sorry for herself, being a bit malnourished and sporting a sore paw she'll be fine YYFY.
Fizzy the little Border is still missing. NNFN
On Thursdays the cleaners come round. We leave the front door unlocked and they let themselves in. Except I didn't leave the door unlocked and the cleaners couldn't go in. NNFN
I am now massively, MASSIVELY in the shit with the Mrs who is the one the family have all contact with. NNFN

They are going to arrive back from holiday tonight to a house which is -1 loved family pet, and that hasn't had the usual weekly clean by their cleaners. NNFN

Fizzy the Border is still missing. NNFN

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 04, 2016, 02:31:59 pm
This sounds like a case for Rodney and Del Boy to sort out.

Sorry though, sounds shit.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on February 04, 2016, 03:26:19 pm

Woken by a mouse in my suitcase in my hotel room last night at about 3am. Probably a lowercase nnfn although it did manage to get in to my bag of Liquorice Allsorts which I found a bit upsetting at the time.

Well, leave the mouse a home next time.

Yep, was short of space anyway, the mouse is usually a luxury as a travelling companion....

Mouse in a suitcase eating liquorice? It sounds more like a missing verse from The Owl And The Pussycat than a post in NNFN.
The owl and the pussy cat went to sea in a beautiful pea green boat. The owl found a mouse in his guitar. He ripped its head off and ate it. The cat pretended to be his friend. Then he ate the owl. He went home and shat in  flower beds. The end.
Will. This mouse ruins the story. That's why the verse was left out.


Sorry about the dog mate. I'm sure they'll say he does it a lot and it's not your fault. Perhaps he ran off because his owners called him fizzy.
Cleaner should have a key if they trust them to go everywhere in the house without a chaperone.
I think you're in the clear.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Moo on February 04, 2016, 03:30:07 pm
May have a torn labrum in my shoulder. If i'm down the works looking like I'm trying not to murder someone, this is primarily the reason why.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 04, 2016, 03:35:30 pm


Woken by a mouse in my suitcase in my hotel room last night at about 3am. Probably a lowercase nnfn although it did manage to get in to my bag of Liquorice Allsorts which I found a bit upsetting at the time.

Well, leave the mouse a home next time.

Yep, was short of space anyway, the mouse is usually a luxury as a travelling companion....

Mouse in a suitcase eating liquorice? It sounds more like a missing verse from The Owl And The Pussycat than a post in NNFN.
The owl and the pussy cat went to sea in a beautiful pea green boat. The owl found a mouse in his guitar. He ripped its head off and ate it. The cat pretended to be his friend. Then he ate the owl. He went home and shat in  flower beds. The end.
Will. This mouse ruins the story. That's why the verse was left out.


Sorry about the dog mate. I'm sure they'll say he does it a lot and it's not your fault. Perhaps he ran off because his owners called him fizzy.
Cleaner should have a key if they trust them to go everywhere in the house without a chaperone.
I think you're in the clear.

Have you ever tried to handle an untrained owl?

The cat has no frikkin chance if it's anything less than a rabid Bengal Tigger on acid.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 04, 2016, 03:45:38 pm

May have a torn labrum in my shoulder. If i'm down the works looking like I'm trying not to murder someone, this is primarily the reason why.

After taking a six week break (tendinitis) and then last night being an Arse campusing up a 45* caving ladder and doing bits from my old display team days on the 2" rope; without any sort of warm up or easing back in...
I now appear to be unable to raise my right arm higher than my shoulder without crying like a pink frilly sissy.
I also appear to be unable to raise my coffee to my lips without my arm spasming and showering myself with espresso.

The later is a serious problem.

It just doesn't taste the same when I use my left hand.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: 36chambers on February 04, 2016, 04:11:17 pm
It's just not the same when I use my left hand.

Amen, brother.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 04, 2016, 04:53:32 pm

It's just not the same when I use my left hand.

Amen, brother.

Yes, I did rather neglect an opportunity for a "Phnarr Phnarr" there didn't I?


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on February 07, 2016, 03:10:54 pm
Discussion on in situ / perma draws at Ansteys moved to a new thread: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26765.0.html
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 09, 2016, 01:27:35 pm
My girlfriend and I do a spot of house & dog sitting for a (rather wealthy) couple when they go on holiday and get paid quite well for it.
We've been there since Sunday morning and they come back tonight.

On Sunday afternoon 2 of their 3 dogs (a Springer and a Border terrier) promptly disappeared from the garden/field and could not be found. NNFN
We then spent the entire afternoon/evening scouring the local area (rural Somerset, Quantock hills) shouting for them to no avail. NNFN
After 2 nights away, Indie the Springer has turned up home. Despite looking very sorry for herself, being a bit malnourished and sporting a sore paw she'll be fine YYFY.
Fizzy the little Border is still missing. NNFN
On Thursdays the cleaners come round. We leave the front door unlocked and they let themselves in. Except I didn't leave the door unlocked and the cleaners couldn't go in. NNFN
I am now massively, MASSIVELY in the shit with the Mrs who is the one the family have all contact with. NNFN

They are going to arrive back from holiday tonight to a house which is -1 loved family pet, and that hasn't had the usual weekly clean by their cleaners. NNFN

Fizzy the Border is still missing. NNFN

Scrolled down hoping there was a positve end to this, bad luck mate!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: J.Kydd on February 09, 2016, 01:38:35 pm
Scrolled down hoping there was a positve end to this, bad luck mate!

Afraid not chap. Well, not as far as the dog is concerned anyway  :'(
The owners are being really good about it though, and are totally not blaming us for it. General consensus is that she's probably stuck her head down a Badger's set and won't be coming back.

By the time we went back over to the house after work Adele had calmed down a lot and we just cracked on with a few jobs before leaving. Again, owners were pretty chilled about it and we've still been paid the normal rate which is cool.

Guess we just need to see if we get asked to do it again or not...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 09, 2016, 06:47:36 pm
Just got a letter from the Motor Insurance Database saying our van is not on their records. Strange. Then I noticed that the registration was totally different to our (S## XYZ vs R### XYZ).

So I phoned the DVLA and it turns out, when they sent me the V948 Numberplate Authorisation Certificate they wrote the wrong bloody number on it!!!  So now I need to get new plates, change my insurance and then attempt (probably with difficulty) to claim back the additional costs. How very strange and annoying.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on February 09, 2016, 06:54:57 pm
My van requires an overnight MOT stay. Looking like a pretty chunky bill. Not what I wanted right now...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 09, 2016, 07:08:34 pm
I'm always dreading the year that happens. What does it need?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on February 09, 2016, 07:52:14 pm
I'm not 100% sure (I stopped writing things down when list got too long...).

Tyres, quite a few ball joints, plus some other bits and pieces were mentioned.

When I say chunky it should come out - it bloody better - at less than £500 (including £100 I spend on things I know needed doing last week) but that's a third of the van's worth. Plus as I'm moving to London in three weeks I wont really get to use the fucker anyway.

It's on 118k miles so I'm just running it into the ground really.

Pretty sure the last MOT was fiddled A LOT! I didn't really trust the dealer so probably shouldn't have bought it. But having zero advisories compared to the amount that needs doing (all ware based) doesn't sit right with me given the small amount of use it's had.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 09, 2016, 08:14:09 pm

Pretty sure the last MOT was fiddled A LOT! I didn't really trust the dealer so probably shouldn't have bought it. But having zero advisories compared to the amount that needs doing (all ware based) doesn't sit right with me given the small amount of use it's had.

That sucks.  A mate of mine does a fair bit of work to his own van. Had advisories on break lines and a lower suspension arm so replaced them. Next year it failed on the same things - so either they thought his workmanship was shoddy, he got duff parts or they just failed it on last year's advisories...

Either way, that was the van ready for scrap :-(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on February 09, 2016, 08:34:02 pm
It could well be the case given the mileage but the dealer was still a shifty one. He sold the car with 15% more miles than advertised as "he rounded down to 100k". I didn't notice for a week or two by which time I'd moved 200 miles away and got rid of my car so couldn't really take it back...

If I get another year out of it I'll be happy anyway - if it was a bit bigger I'd live in the thing in London again. Though it wasn't the most fun ever last time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 10, 2016, 12:26:27 am
Mot for mates etc.. is not doing anyone a favour - the test is there for an important purpose. I once changed a mini rear subframe (and components) for a friend who's garage owning uncle had MOT'd it for the last three years. I pointed out the brake lines that had corroded to the point they looked like flake bars (seriously) and the fluid pissing cylinders - and the words death trap and 'did they want to kill you' were exchanged.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on February 10, 2016, 04:39:38 pm
Amen to that TT.

Total bill came out at £470 (including the fixed I got last week in preparation). If the fucker breaks it's going over a cliff.
Hopefully it will last another few years and take me out to Europe a handful more times at least.

It really could do with a service soon as well. Does anyone know the difference between the full and partial service options (other than about £80)?

Fucking cars.

Edit.

I shouldn't take it out on the van really... He's taken me all over Europe, saved me from hotel costs, housed me for a month in London, taught me lots about DIY, made moving things MUCH easier, given me great mileage, and other than a new battery caused me no problems at all. Some wear can't really be helped on a 118k mileage vehicle. Just fucking sucks paying for the said wear. Fucking costs.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 11, 2016, 07:20:35 pm
being about to rejoin the LPG drivers club, I thought I'd get a Green Parking Scheme permit again - the fuckers have put it up from £10 to £100 per year

no free halo either
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: TobyD on February 18, 2016, 08:52:40 am
This week: grim week at work, phone dies completely, along with source of reliable internet; boiler stops working last night. I'm now waiting for a bigscale car breakdown...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 18, 2016, 08:59:36 am
I feel your pain - new boiler installed yesterday,  cracked phone screen and pretty stressful period at uni.

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: JackAus on February 25, 2016, 01:07:23 pm
My fucking phone just dropped 12m out of my pocket and onto tile.  :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:
Only got it in Dec. :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on February 25, 2016, 06:23:36 pm
My fucking phone just dropped 12m out of my pocket and onto tile.  :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:
Only got it in Dec. :wall:
That sucks.
Ps how long are your legs?! :jaw:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sxrxg on March 01, 2016, 08:26:36 am
Had a YYFY weekend at Fatnecks birthday bash managing 3 good days of climbing. Then Liverpool lost the cup final and my throat started to feel funny. Now back in hospital for the third time this year. Hopefully I will actually get sorted this time so another reoccurance does not happen... Considering a lay off from climbing for a few months to maybe let the body get back to 100% health.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatneck on March 01, 2016, 08:30:08 am
Unlucky Ste!! Hope you get better soon mate...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 01, 2016, 08:35:55 am
:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 01, 2016, 08:48:36 am
Considering a lay off from climbing for a few months to maybe let the body get back to 100% health.

That doesn't add up :)

Hope you get it sorted soon.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: haydn jones on March 01, 2016, 10:19:02 am
Amen to that TT.

Total bill came out at £470 (including the fixed I got last week in preparation). If the fucker breaks it's going over a cliff.
Hopefully it will last another few years and take me out to Europe a handful more times at least.

It really could do with a service soon as well. Does anyone know the difference between the full and partial service options (other than about £80)?

Fucking cars.

Edit.

I shouldn't take it out on the van really... He's taken me all over Europe, saved me from hotel costs, housed me for a month in London, taught me lots about DIY, made moving things MUCH easier, given me great mileage, and other than a new battery caused me no problems at all. Some wear can't really be helped on a 118k mileage vehicle. Just fucking sucks paying for the said wear. Fucking costs.

It should only cost you £35 to do a full service yourself and its easy enough. What van have you got? The oil filter can be a bastered if its siezed up. You don't  need an oil filter temoval tool. Just wrap a belt wrond it to get some traction and pull really fucking hard
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 01, 2016, 10:43:02 am
Amen to that TT.

Total bill came out at £470 (including the fixed I got last week in preparation). If the fucker breaks it's going over a cliff.
Hopefully it will last another few years and take me out to Europe a handful more times at least.

It really could do with a service soon as well. Does anyone know the difference between the full and partial service options (other than about £80)?

Fucking cars.

Edit.

I shouldn't take it out on the van really... He's taken me all over Europe, saved me from hotel costs, housed me for a month in London, taught me lots about DIY, made moving things MUCH easier, given me great mileage, and other than a new battery caused me no problems at all. Some wear can't really be helped on a 118k mileage vehicle. Just fucking sucks paying for the said wear. Fucking costs.

It should only cost you £35 to do a full service yourself and its easy enough. What van have you got? The oil filter can be a bastered if its siezed up. You don't  need an oil filter temoval tool. Just wrap a belt wrond it to get some traction and pull really fucking hard

Best bodge is to spear the filter in the side with a screwdriver and then unwind...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 01, 2016, 11:17:49 am
Was going to say the same. Just make damn sure you can get it off, once stabbed, becuse gaffer tape doesn't stick well to oily metal.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: haydn jones on March 01, 2016, 11:36:24 am
Haha. Yes that also works. I'd  leave that as a last thing to try though! Its really messy! But it works :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 01, 2016, 12:29:03 pm
normally manage with my hands..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on March 02, 2016, 06:46:21 am
Hope you heal up soon Ste  :strongbench:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 03, 2016, 09:07:13 am
Amen to that TT.

Total bill came out at £470 (including the fixed I got last week in preparation). If the fucker breaks it's going over a cliff.
Hopefully it will last another few years and take me out to Europe a handful more times at least.

It really could do with a service soon as well. Does anyone know the difference between the full and partial service options (other than about £80)?

Fucking cars.

Edit.

I shouldn't take it out on the van really... He's taken me all over Europe, saved me from hotel costs, housed me for a month in London, taught me lots about DIY, made moving things MUCH easier, given me great mileage, and other than a new battery caused me no problems at all. Some wear can't really be helped on a 118k mileage vehicle. Just fucking sucks paying for the said wear. Fucking costs.

It should only cost you £35 to do a full service yourself and its easy enough. What van have you got? The oil filter can be a bastered if its siezed up. You don't  need an oil filter temoval tool. Just wrap a belt wrond it to get some traction and pull really fucking hard


I might have to have a look into doing this!

It's a Peugeot Partner so I guess any guidance for that or a Berlingo would suffice. Do you know of anywhere that's got a decent online guide of things you need to do/how to do them? A general one should be okay as long as it's not wildly different!

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 03, 2016, 09:16:47 am
Diesel? Bit trickier if so...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 03, 2016, 09:18:04 am
a Haynes manual plus Youtube should be sufficient
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 03, 2016, 09:46:02 am
Diesel? Bit trickier if so...

Yeah it's a diesel. I've never done anything like it before so it might not be the best idea... Though there's always a first time for everything!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chris20 on March 03, 2016, 09:58:51 am
Do you know of anywhere that's got a decent online guide of things you need to do/how to do them? A general one should be okay as long as it's not wildly different!

As suggested I'd get the haynes manual as it's always hand.  There is also this website which gives a run through of basic servicing https://teon.co/
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cha1n on March 03, 2016, 10:28:38 am
Haynes manual for a Berlingo is available to download in pdf format from popular torrenting sites but I'd advise against doing something so illegal.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 03, 2016, 10:30:12 am
Its probably the 1.6 PSA (I think) engine... its in LOADS of cars (including mine). Ford, Peugot, Citroen, Volvo...

Loads of video's for oil change...

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=service+diesel+1.6+PSA&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr,ssl&ei=wBHYVrLeBYOYsgHBvI-oDg#tbm=vid&q=oil+change+diesel+1.6+PSA

You're also supposed to change the fuel filter too - which can (I think) be a bit trickier... (you dont want air in the system)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLN8QaS-4OY
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on March 03, 2016, 10:49:08 am
Haynes manual for a Berlingo is available to download in pdf format from popular torrenting sites but I'd advise against doing something so illegal.

Then why mention it? :shrug:

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cha1n on March 03, 2016, 10:54:27 am

Then why mention it? :shrug:

Some people may not mind. Personally, mine lives in the boot and has done for every car I've ever owned...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 03, 2016, 11:12:45 am
You can often get Haynes Manuals for older cars on ebay for a few pounds.

Vehicle owner forums and facebook pages can be a good source for info. Usually someone geeky on there.

Changing sparkplugs in those engines isn't a problem though ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 03, 2016, 03:37:29 pm
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160303/6b80e4d060e981eabcedac8a937332f2.jpg)

Bollocks!
After 10 days of strong antibiotics, chills, rigours et al, I was finally feeling better yesterday.
Even managed a couple of k run and a bit of rope climbing and ring work and taught a GCSE PE class (Bouldering).
Went for a run this morning and noticed the lump on the back of my finger was itching, by lunch time it was throbbing, hurting and hot. Back to A&E.
Sent to Orthopaedics after xrays. Back on the Augmentin, scan galore booked and mutterings of "debriding", surgery for sure.

Wank buckets.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 03, 2016, 10:51:18 pm
Shit Matt, how did you get the infection?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on March 04, 2016, 07:42:41 am
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160303/6b80e4d060e981eabcedac8a937332f2.jpg)

Bollocks!
After 10 days of strong antibiotics, chills, rigours et al, I was finally feeling better yesterday.
Even managed a couple of k run and a bit of rope climbing and ring work and taught a GCSE PE class (Bouldering).
Went for a run this morning and noticed the lump on the back of my finger was itching, by lunch time it was throbbing, hurting and hot. Back to A&E.
Sent to Orthopaedics after xrays. Back on the Augmentin, scan galore booked and mutterings of "debriding", surgery for sure.

Wank buckets.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Depending on which hand it is, it might have an impact on your ability to do your last statement.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 04, 2016, 08:52:58 am
Yep. The last statement is out.

I was doing some maintenance at work, repairing pegs from the peg board, about three weeks ago.  The wooden balls on the pegs are too big to fit into the vice, so I held it in my left hand while I carefully got the 3x50 screw set with the Impact driver.
Apparently not carefully enough, because it went straight through the middle finger of my left hand, scraping the Medial Phalanx on the way but not quite breaking the skin on the anterior.
There must have been something carried to the base of the wound, because the entry has completely healed and the lump is on the anterior of the finger.
It's been three weeks and I was secretly convinced it was nothing to do with the screw and was a tumour on the bone (it's very hard and immobile) but now it's been fully CT'd the bone is normal. Next are ultra sounds to look for something soft, like a bit of wood.
If no wood, then a resistant bacteria and then they would debride. That would be a fucker as there's no "spare" flesh on a finger and it would mean taking out "working" bits or, basically, permanent disability.


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 04, 2016, 08:56:54 am
Geez, that sucks. Good luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 04, 2016, 09:50:19 am
At least you have a decent take out coffee  :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on March 04, 2016, 10:16:47 am
Fuck Matt that sounds shit.
Good luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on March 04, 2016, 11:19:29 am
Shit that's grim. Best of luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 04, 2016, 11:26:04 am
or, basically, permanent disability.

on the bright side - look how psyched the paraclimbing folk are
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 04, 2016, 04:46:29 pm
Get well soon Matt!
Anyway Tommy Caldwell climbs 9a without an entire index finger so...  ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 13, 2016, 10:47:34 am
Looks like I dodged the bullet on surgery. The second round of Augmentin killed the infection and no foreign bodies were visible on the ultrasound. I have, however, shagged the tendon, leaving me with a large painful lump on the back of my finger; which means splinting for a few weeks and permanently flipping the bird to the world.
This is a huge relief, seriously; waiting a month for all the tests etc to confirm that the large lump on my hand was not a tumour (and it was one of the possibilities), has been frickin awful.
(My wife's tumour was first discovered after an abscess formed behind it and the ensuing infection made her really ill, so I'm paranoid/hypochondriac about these things now too).



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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: the_dom on March 13, 2016, 11:17:22 am
Looks like I dodged the bullet on surgery.

 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on March 13, 2016, 07:29:29 pm
Looks like I dodged the bullet on surgery.

Good news

Quote
This is a huge relief, seriously; waiting a month for all the tests etc to confirm that the large lump on my hand was not a tumour (and it was one of the possibilities), has been frickin awful.

Understandable. I had a lump appear on a finger recently, and went sharpish to the doc to rule the tumour option out. Wasn't too bothered about what else it might be.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 13, 2016, 07:35:45 pm
Lumps can be pant-fillingly scary. I once had multiple lymph nodes swell up with no identifiable cause. In fact, I remember the NHS 24 checklist running through all the potential causes, none of which I had. The next line said "but if you have none of these symptoms, it could be cancer so go to your GP" :o

I'm glad to hear you got anything nasty ruled out. I had blood tests which came back clear....with no additional explanation. "Unexplained reaction" was the verdict.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 14, 2016, 02:05:06 pm
YYFY then!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 20, 2016, 11:01:57 pm
Finally a sunny day with no plans and not too big a pile of uni work to do - off to Dunkeld for some mid-7 early season bolt clipping.

Left at a leisurely 9am, got a coffee & nice lunch for later at a deli. Wandered to the crag, chatted to some long time no see friends. Pulled out my climbing stuff.....two left shoes. Fuuuuucccckkkkk!

Quote
Erm, anyone got size 43 feet?

Quote
No?

Oh well, spent the day with my mate's size 46 Anasazi Pink and a big sock on my right foot, 43 boostic on the left. No success on the routes but a lovely day in the sun and plenty forearm pump!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on March 21, 2016, 08:20:50 am
Caught up in the EasyJet French ATC flight cancellations. Currently stuck in Bilbao as flight home last night was pulled with 2 hours to go. Next flight back from here to Manchester isn't until Thursday so managed to book on to the Stansted flight tonight and will somehow work out how to get from there back to Sheffield. That's assuming the flight actually goes of course.

The pinnacle of the experience was phoning EasyJet customer service to be told that they fly from many airports in Spain such as Barcelona and Alicante. I then politely pointed out their astonishing lack of basic geography as to the distance between Bilbao and those suggested airports only to be advised its their policy to suggest other airports in the same country. Good job I'm not flying from Russia I guess.

Let's see what today brings as this extended stay is eating through my already limited annual leave.


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on March 21, 2016, 08:34:48 am
Pulled out my climbing stuff.....two left shoes. Fuuuuucccckkkkk!

Did similar at Curbar once, had two right shoes (currently used as my avatart).

Also left my shoes at a crag in Mallorca only realising the next day at a different crag, squeezing my size 9 feet into my friends size 7 did not make for pleasant climbing.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 21, 2016, 08:43:03 am

Let's see what today brings as this extended stay is eating through my already limited annual leave.


Yeah...the airlines don't reimburse that, do they!!!  Do the French ATC folks even have a decent case or are they just being trés Francaise?

Makes my shoe thing seem even more trivial!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: abarro81 on March 21, 2016, 09:09:39 am
I'm the opposite - stuck in the UK when I should be on the way to Spain. Damn French and their strikes.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on March 21, 2016, 12:39:09 pm

I'm the opposite - stuck in the UK when I should be on the way to Spain. Damn French and their strikes.
amen to that. Still, currently shoving pinxtos and San Miguel down my neck so could be worse.


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on March 21, 2016, 12:40:25 pm


Let's see what today brings as this extended stay is eating through my already limited annual leave.


Yeah...the airlines don't reimburse that, do they!!!  Do the French ATC folks even have a decent case or are they just being trés Francaise?

Makes my shoe thing seem even more trivial!
something to do with staff cuts but done in a very francais manner I guess. Only matter of time before they take the MD hostage.


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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F V2.0 on March 27, 2016, 03:23:55 pm
Left elbow properly fubar. Arse.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2016, 09:11:06 am
Golfer or tennis?

Feel your pain.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 28, 2016, 09:38:02 am
Sat in the airport coming home from an ace trip waiting to hear from our hire car company after someone hit the side of us an hour after landing in Mallorca.

They signed essentially saying it was their fault but we won't find out what's happening with it for a few days. Damages were c.2500 Euro.

Anyone experienced this before or understand how excess insurance etc works?

Edit - insurance was a separate annual one, not with the hire company.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 28, 2016, 10:05:33 am
You will pay the excess to your insurance comp, who will pay the hire car comp. your insurance comp will then approach the other parties for payment. This will be paid to you if you've claimed anything. This can take anything between 3wks and a year. How much your insurance pays out has nothing to do with you, you'll just pay your agreed excess, ie400 euro's. If they've admitted fault and you're not waiting for whiplash etc you'll get 400 back at some point.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F V2.0 on March 28, 2016, 06:35:32 pm
Golfer or tennis?

Feel your pain.

Tennis (inside). Its been growly for a while, but I felt something really go yesterday, shooting pains down the forearm, lots of dull ache and tenderness. To top it off the car broke down en route to a family day out. Double arse  :thumbsdown:  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 29, 2016, 08:23:03 am
Golfers is inside? Did it go while climbing?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F V2.0 on March 29, 2016, 10:59:02 am
Yep. Pulling on a crimp in a roof. Stupidly trying too hard knowing it was dodgy. Deffo inside the elbow.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 29, 2016, 11:08:24 am
I did something to mine trying to lower on a square edged volume on a traverse in a bouldering comp. really hurt at the end of the muscle at the bottom of your forearm just before elbow. Have carried on climbing since and it hasn't got any worse.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on March 30, 2016, 12:23:14 pm
Fell off the rock-over move at the top of my 7b project in Slovenia, pendulumed under a bulge and smashed my knee. Three stitches later I thought I'd just need a rest day. Now I can't walk and have to fly home five days early to see a knee surgeon  :'(  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fried on March 30, 2016, 12:51:03 pm
That's shit. You have my sympathy for what it's worth  :no:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Footwork on March 30, 2016, 01:21:41 pm
Thats shit, Ross, sorry to hear  :(

I think you need to scream louder on your send go next time  ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 30, 2016, 01:54:02 pm
Heal soon!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on March 30, 2016, 02:24:35 pm
Thanks guys, hopefully it isn't too serious...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on April 10, 2016, 10:31:20 am
The end of my trip came sooner than expected.
Van totalled after turning over when two cars hit each other and ploughed into me in the south of France. No van, no home now and no Font. Shit end to what was a difficult but amazing seven months.
Gutted.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duma on April 10, 2016, 10:36:25 am
Fuck! Hope you're ok kelvin.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rodma on April 10, 2016, 10:53:23 am
Holy fuck geezer, that's a proper NNFN

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Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on April 10, 2016, 11:38:01 am
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160410/4a505ea7ba0239135735948af72dba1c.jpg)

Boom. Lost count now but that's either 19 or 20 write-offs for one reason or another - non of them my fault. The gods stamped 'hit me' on my head when I was born methinks.

I'm alright tho, sore back low down but the x-rays showed no breaks.

Shit at climbing, great at surviving.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 10, 2016, 11:42:01 am
 :jaw:
Glad you're ok!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 10, 2016, 12:03:14 pm
:jaw:
Glad you're ok!

+1
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 10, 2016, 12:05:57 pm
Shit Kelvin! Glad you made it out of that!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 10, 2016, 12:08:39 pm
Dude, that parking SUCKS.

Sorry to hear that, pretty shocking thing to happen (even if you are used to it from the sounds of things).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on April 10, 2016, 03:59:12 pm
I dunno Fiend - got a pretty decent 45deg angle and a perfect 90!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 10, 2016, 04:05:49 pm
True that!

Would fit in well with some of the abstract and experimental parking that goes on in my street :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: the_dom on April 10, 2016, 07:45:18 pm
:jaw:
Glad you're ok!

+1
+2..

Jeez.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on April 10, 2016, 07:55:05 pm
Wowsa. Be careful out there.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: joel182 on April 10, 2016, 07:57:16 pm
The end of my trip came sooner than expected.
Van totalled after turning over when two cars hit each other and ploughed into me in the south of France. No van, no home now and no Font. Shit end to what was a difficult but amazing seven months.
Gutted.

Bloody hell! Glad you're alright, at least!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 11, 2016, 09:52:40 am
Gutted mate, absolutely gutted. Glad you're ok.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on April 11, 2016, 10:09:46 am
Glad you're OK Kelvin.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F V2.0 on April 15, 2016, 12:14:06 pm
Just been diagnosed with carpel tunnel syndrome in my right hand, along with early signs of duprytens.  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on April 15, 2016, 05:40:30 pm
 :(
Surgery?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F V2.0 on April 15, 2016, 07:32:11 pm
Not yet. Nothing to exacerbate it for 6 weeks then review. Hopefully the tendonitis in the left elbow will be clear by that time. At least it'll give everything else time to settle down...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on April 15, 2016, 08:54:52 pm
Who diagnosed you Andy? A GP or a specialist? I was diagnosed with CTS in both wrists not so long ago as the result of a Nerve Conduction Study. They were well over keen on surgery which I declined. I'm convinced my nerve compression was due to Neck/Shoulder problems which they are going to explore with Physio. It hasn't effected my climbing yet, and to be honest the only annoying thing it causes is numb hands/fingers at night.

I also have pretty bad Golfers in my right arm. Not sure if it's in anyway linked.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slackline on April 15, 2016, 09:26:44 pm
I also have pretty bad Golfers in my right arm. Not sure if it's in anyway linked.

"Your shoulder bones connected to your arm bone.
Your arm bones connected to your elbow bone.
Your elbow bones connected to your forearm bone(s).
..."

:clown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 15, 2016, 09:33:36 pm
Who diagnosed you Andy? A GP or a specialist? I was diagnosed with CTS in both wrists not so long ago as the result of a Nerve Conduction Study. They were well over keen on surgery which I declined. I'm convinced my nerve compression was due to Neck/Shoulder problems which they are going to explore with Physio. It hasn't effected my climbing yet, and to be honest the only annoying thing it causes is numb hands/fingers at night.

I also have pretty bad Golfers in my right arm. Not sure if it's in anyway linked.

Yep, in the most un-scientific assertion possible, I'd have to agree it's all linked. I blew my right Rotator Cuff and I'm pretty sure favouring that led to my on-going tendinitis in my Brachioradialis. I'm bloody certain that the exercises prescribed for that, irritate the damn shoulder and it's descending into a Möbius strip of absurdity.
AKA my right arm is more fucked up than a Tory Budget...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F V2.0 on April 15, 2016, 09:39:59 pm
Who diagnosed you Andy? A GP or a specialist? I was diagnosed with CTS in both wrists not so long ago as the result of a Nerve Conduction Study. They were well over keen on surgery which I declined. I'm convinced my nerve compression was due to Neck/Shoulder problems which they are going to explore with Physio. It hasn't effected my climbing yet, and to be honest the only annoying thing it causes is numb hands/fingers at night.

I also have pretty bad Golfers in my right arm. Not sure if it's in anyway linked.
It was my GP, but he was very thorough. I've checked online and all the symptoms fit. The CTS isn't affecting my climbing as much as the tendonitis. 28 years of trying your hardest is a bit wearing on the body. That and fingerboarding with a 20kg weight vest...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 18, 2016, 11:03:29 am
along with early signs of duprytens. 

I've had "early signs" for about 10 years now, and still kept on climbing. What early signs are they?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fried on April 26, 2016, 01:53:58 pm
Fires banned in the bivi at camping les pres...... :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on April 26, 2016, 04:12:55 pm
That's a bit rubbish but seems to be the way everywhere is going.

Not to worry fried... get the replacement van in a couple of weeks, it's much bigger and has a log burner  :beer2:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on April 26, 2016, 04:21:28 pm
Fell off my bike last night. Broke my pinky finger on my non dominant hand. Bollox
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fried on April 26, 2016, 04:38:51 pm
That's a bit rubbish but seems to be the way everywhere is going.

Not to worry fried... get the replacement van in a couple of weeks, it's much bigger and has a log burner  :beer2:

That's some good news....not the same as sitting aroung a fire, watching the stars come out with a glass of pastis in hand, but a close second.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 26, 2016, 06:20:19 pm
Fell off my bike last night. Broke my pinky finger on my non dominant hand. Bollox

You and your fingers, eh?
That's rubbish. At least it's the pinkie and end of grit season.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on April 26, 2016, 06:35:14 pm


That's some good news....not the same as sitting aroung a fire, watching the stars come out with a glass of pastis in hand, but a close second.

I dunno - that can be arranged next time I'm down.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2016, 01:21:34 pm
Fell off my bike last night. Broke my pinky finger on my non dominant hand. Bollox
Fell on my skis yesterday. Went down on an icy patch and went quite a way. Not sure I'll be full crimping or pinching for a while (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160501/c4ab922234833ebab4daeafe14bdb3ec.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duma on May 01, 2016, 02:01:21 pm
Ouch! That looks like a cartoon!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on May 01, 2016, 03:46:53 pm
 :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on May 01, 2016, 05:16:09 pm
Nasty Chris, hope it heals quick. At least the skiing season is pretty much over though
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 01, 2016, 08:37:13 pm
Ouch! Fat handed twat!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 02, 2016, 08:49:52 am
Nasty Chris, hope it heals quick. At least the skiing season is pretty much over though

Judging by the amount of snow here, I reckon there's a good month of touring and gully skiing still to be had if it still stays coldish. Planning an after work hit of Black Spout on Lochnagar soon.

Thumb less swollen and got some movement in it now. Went to Minor Injuries and they reckoned it's just sprained. However now I can bend it a bit it has a worrying lean to the left. Might get it X-rayed.

andyd, bummer what's prognosis?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on May 02, 2016, 09:36:47 am
20c forecast for a week away http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/Scotland/Glasgow/long.html
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 02, 2016, 09:45:04 am
It's OK, I don't go skiing in Glasgow
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andyd on May 03, 2016, 04:22:53 pm
That thumb looks painful. You kind of need a thumb quite regularly. Hope it heals quickly. Mine is still broken. I have an appointment at the plastic trauma clinic tomorrow. I'll be having another xray too. I've spent all weekend building a boat in Penrith and have bivi'd out every night without too much inconvenience. The worst part seems to be getting into bed (where I forget and catch it on the duvet) and trying to wash my right armpit with a bag over my hand. Anyway, my niece manages with having only one hand so I'm not going to whinge.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 05, 2016, 02:34:54 pm
Dammit. After missing the Swizzy weekend with Fatneck & co., and after reading about my friend Filz's fire baptism on the grit, I am really longing to climb outside now.
I have a particularly beautiful memory of flashing Steep Traverse at Stanage many many years ago, goddammit, so good. The sun, the wind, I can recall every sensation on every hold, how it felt flowing and perfect, how my muscles responded to my non conscious mind in a robot-like way. Beautiful.
Now I'm sad.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: the_dom on May 05, 2016, 05:10:36 pm
Dammit. After missing the Swizzy weekend with Fatneck & co., and after reading about my friend Filz's fire baptism on the grit, I am really longing to climb outside now.
I have a particularly beautiful memory of flashing Steep Traverse at Stanage many many years ago, goddammit, so good. The sun, the wind, I can recall every sensation on every hold, how it felt flowing and perfect, how my muscles responded to my non conscious mind in a robot-like way. Beautiful.
Now I'm sad.

I'll be in Magic Wood from the 27th to the 31st of May - make a plan!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 09, 2016, 09:16:39 am
Nice one Dom, it would be nice to come over!
I'll try to!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: twoshoes on May 14, 2016, 05:11:49 pm
Best part of six months off with what I thought was a minor finger tweak. Two weeks back and I tweak it again on a 6b. Bollocks.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 14, 2016, 07:19:03 pm
Best part of six months off with what I thought was a minor finger tweak. Two weeks back and I tweak it again on a 6b. Bollocks.

I'd take a couple days off for a minor tweek, 1/2 a year doesn't seem that minor; possibly 6b, two weeks into rehab, was a bit ambitious?

Hopefully it's nothing more than the usual rehab two step.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: the_dom on May 15, 2016, 11:22:30 am
Nice one Dom, it would be nice to come over!
I'll try to!

Will DM you our details.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 15, 2016, 12:31:18 pm
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 19, 2016, 07:58:36 am
It's not generally like me to post on this thread, but this is serious.

For 30 years, I've been able to go to Broomgrove wall, as my sanctuary in the darkness of the night, safe in the knowledge that it was ever basking in the fugal glow of neon.

Yet now, it appears, the lights have finally gone out. This, for now, seems to be truly, the end of an era.

 :no:

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7626/27037944901_135f5c9f19_b.jpg)

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7221/26500855124_dc7a0d930e_b.jpg)

There may not be many who turn up there at midnight, to share the wall with the owls, but hopefully, a few who will know that something is being lost.

 :boohoo:

(Thankfully, phone and bike lights helped me reach into the darkness and "pull out a crimp" - sorry, I love that one, north_country_boy  :) )
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on May 19, 2016, 09:18:44 am
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_16270.jpg)

 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 19, 2016, 11:48:10 am
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_16270.jpg)

 :thumbsup:

That's a bloody good idea  8)

I've not played Connect Four for years!  :P



A "Best L.E.D / workkight" thread would be good.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on May 19, 2016, 12:05:51 pm
A "Best L.E.D / workkight" thread would be good.

This is what you want, Dave:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8731.msg500146.html#msg500146

I think the best value-for-money option is to go with two of the ones from Screwfix (£30) that Highrepute links to.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on May 19, 2016, 01:25:25 pm
Dammit. After missing the Swizzy weekend with Fatneck & co., and after reading about my friend Filz's fire baptism on the grit, I am really longing to climb outside now.
I have a particularly beautiful memory of flashing Steep Traverse at Stanage many many years ago, goddammit, so good. The sun, the wind, I can recall every sensation on every hold, how it felt flowing and perfect, how my muscles responded to my non conscious mind in a robot-like way. Beautiful.
Now I'm sad.

I'll be in Magic Wood from the 27th to the 31st of May - make a plan!


I'm visiting Switzerland for the first time next weekend.  Flying into Zurich then staying in Biasca.  We'll climb at Chironico on Friday 27th; Cresciano on Saturday. Sunday's open and we might be at Magic Wood or doing something cultural in Zurich.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 19, 2016, 01:48:29 pm
Hey that's cool!
I'm waiting to know if my girlfriend can take a day off from work, and if so then it's Swizzy time!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 19, 2016, 01:54:57 pm
A "Best L.E.D / workkight" thread would be good.

This is what you want, Dave:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/
topic,8731.msg500146.html#msg500146

I think the best value-for-money option is to go with two of the ones from Screwfix (£30) that Highrepute links to.

Thanks for the link Will.  :)

However, this is about Broomgrove  :(

I have a Lidl special, which was £4 after it'd been reduced. Bit feeble, but fits in my rucksack (no car). Should probably sort myself out with one of those cheap Chinese Cree exploders.

Nowt like bouldering at 1a.m. in the neon afterglow of a post apocalyptic sunset. ;)

Even the bulb directly above the wall seems to be defunct now. This wouldn't be so bad, if we had a decent climbing wall.

Hang on, is this 1986..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on May 19, 2016, 02:25:35 pm
Dave, have you tried changing the bulb?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 19, 2016, 05:23:59 pm
Dave, have you tried changing the bulb?

Thanks. Mine in it now. The one I took out worked when I tested it at home. Socket might be knackered, but I don't think they use the building anymore.

No, this really is hopeless. I might even have to resort to using sunlight!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: the_dom on May 19, 2016, 05:39:28 pm
Dammit. After missing the Swizzy weekend with Fatneck & co., and after reading about my friend Filz's fire baptism on the grit, I am really longing to climb outside now.
I have a particularly beautiful memory of flashing Steep Traverse at Stanage many many years ago, goddammit, so good. The sun, the wind, I can recall every sensation on every hold, how it felt flowing and perfect, how my muscles responded to my non conscious mind in a robot-like way. Beautiful.
Now I'm sad.

I'll be in Magic Wood from the 27th to the 31st of May - make a plan!


I'm visiting Switzerland for the first time next weekend.  Flying into Zurich then staying in Biasca.  We'll climb at Chironico on Friday 27th; Cresciano on Saturday. Sunday's open and we might be at Magic Wood or doing something cultural in Zurich.

I'll DM you my details. If you're keen on Magic Wood, it would be great to meet up.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on May 19, 2016, 06:03:16 pm
Yeah - Definitely. We're a bit off topic with all this positivity for this thread!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Baldy on May 19, 2016, 06:46:15 pm
Well if it helps bring things back on track, I have once again f*cked my big toe up.

The one that was on the mend after a year of being shite.

I call bullshit.

Still, might encourage me to get on the fingerboard this time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 20, 2016, 09:02:36 am
Fucked up how? I broke mine into 6 pieces once.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Baldy on May 20, 2016, 11:10:50 am
About a year ago, I jumped off a boulder from about 3m and felt it click like I had just clicked my knuckle.
I wasn't able to walk the 15 minutes home, and haven't been able to wear a tight rock shoe since.

I've been working it back up through an oversize Evolv Valor, some short sessions in some of my old and stretched shoes, and finally into the new Shamans - which don't hurt it for some reason...still a bit sore after a session, but nothing unmanageable. Everything seemed on the up, and I was starting to train again.

Then a couple of nights ago I hopped on an easy problem with big footholds, in my nice stiff Guide Tennies, I did a twisting move and felt something tear in my toe. I initially thought it was all over, and I would just have to forget climbing anything this year, but I can still walk, and it just seems to be weird moves that make it strain...but it really hurts when it does. I'll be finding a doctor to get it looked at, but 2 years of constant injury are starting to get a little trying.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 20, 2016, 12:37:35 pm
That sucks. In many ways breaks are easier to deal with. What was the diagnosis?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 21, 2016, 11:47:42 am
Ok, this might sound odd, but go with me here.

I lost bits from my right big toe to frost bite/nip in '92. I have chronic pain, bad circulation, something that passes for a "nail" that keeps falling off. Rock shoes are an absolute nightmare.

I developed several coping techniques over the years.

1: Force myself to sit in "Kiza" as much as possible. It hurts like all the Bastards in hell, but you learn to isolate the sensation and put it away.

2: When I was still climbing hard (for me), I had three different size shoe choices. One, a half size up from street; to warm up in. Another, street size; for bad days where no prep worked. And my absolute max, a size down from street; for good days.

Lack of climbing hard recently has given me the best nail I've had in a decade.


(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160521/6e361bb2ed8c40c59d23665724d2a057.jpg)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Baldy on May 22, 2016, 06:46:56 pm
Thanks for the tip OMM, if nothing else, those those pictures will tide me over until better days.   :-*
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 22, 2016, 07:04:52 pm
Thanks for the tip OMM, if nothing else, those those pictures will tide me over until better days.   :-*

You see, it could be worse!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 25, 2016, 07:49:19 pm
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/26599819504_91aba5e9ce_b.jpg)

Here's another hot training tip I'd like to share with everyone.

If you're working one-armers with a bit of assistance, maybe with a finger through a sling,
try using the very tip of your pinkie in the loop, to minimise the load you can apply. Cracking idea  :punk:

It's guaranteed to get results, maybe not the result you want.

More of a pop actually.

Bum    :clap2:    :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 25, 2016, 08:14:08 pm
oh dear, did little Davey hurt his ickle finger?

 ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 25, 2016, 08:16:17 pm
Shit! Bad pop Dave?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 25, 2016, 08:18:03 pm
as bad as Agadoo ?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 25, 2016, 08:29:45 pm
Shit! Bad pop Dave?

Thanks Dense, yeah, not so good. Long time coming though, this one.
Weirdly, it's something in the ring finger that's gone :(
Working on making some big holds to pull on..

as bad as Agadoo ?

Abadoo  :slap:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 25, 2016, 08:37:08 pm
as bad as Agadoo ?

or more Wigfield
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 25, 2016, 08:39:13 pm

Weirdly, it's something in the ring finger that's gone

on the same hand as the pinkie that you put in the sling?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on May 26, 2016, 07:54:57 am
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7570/27224645576_e501a33c1f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HtKqCY)

Not that I was going to be climbing anyway.  (https://flic.kr/p/HtKqCY)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nai on May 26, 2016, 08:30:38 am
Oh it gets worse:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27108.msg523715.html#msg523715
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on May 26, 2016, 09:04:58 am
Just as my knee and wrist are almost healed, I went and played a cricket match for my work team last night (first cricket in 12 years). All that throwing has flared up my old rotator cuff injury  :'(

Meant to be off to Devon this weekend, hope it's just a twinge that settles down. Last time I felt like this, I was out for two months  :no:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 26, 2016, 04:10:07 pm

Weirdly, it's something in the ring finger that's gone

on the same hand as the pinkie that you put in the sling?

Yes  :smart:

I was doing this sort of thing:

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7162/26658639974_16818dc23c_b.jpg)

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7282/27168391242_962c2b60d5_b.jpg)

Ought to know better than to try emulating Rupert on the Beastmaker.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 26, 2016, 04:14:39 pm
Just as my knee and wrist are almost healed, I went and played a cricket match for my work team last night (first cricket in 12 years). All that throwing has flared up my old rotator cuff injury  :'(

Meant to be off to Devon this weekend, hope it's just a twinge that settles down. Last time I felt like this, I was out for two months  :no:

Hope it clears up enough for you to be able to make the most of the weekend.
I miss it down there.

Good luck!  :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 27, 2016, 06:56:50 pm
Had the stitches out in my back at lunchtime. Painless.

Bent down to pick something up later and they split apart... nice 5cm by 0.5-1cm wide by 0.5cm deep gash across the small of my back now...

Still, no wait at minor injuries... silver linings and all that ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on May 30, 2016, 07:35:46 pm
Just as my knee and wrist are almost healed, I went and played a cricket match for my work team last night (first cricket in 12 years). All that throwing has flared up my old rotator cuff injury  :'(

Meant to be off to Devon this weekend, hope it's just a twinge that settles down. Last time I felt like this, I was out for two months  :no:

Hope it clears up enough for you to be able to make the most of the weekend.
I miss it down there.

Good luck!  :)
Thanks Dave, was fairly achey so didn't push it too much. I think it's twinged a different bit of the rotator cuff to before as my thereaband exercises don't aggravate it. Returned with it hurting only marginally more than when I left so that's good I suppose! Got a physio appointment this week closing up my knee, I'll ask her what rehab I should be doing.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 31, 2016, 02:55:22 pm
Just as my knee and wrist are almost healed, I went and played a cricket match for my work team last night (first cricket in 12 years). All that throwing has flared up my old rotator cuff injury  :'(

Meant to be off to Devon this weekend, hope it's just a twinge that settles down. Last time I felt like this, I was out for two months  :no:

Hope it clears up enough for you to be able to make the most of the weekend.
I miss it down there.

Good luck!  :)
Thanks Dave, was fairly achey so didn't push it too much. I think it's twinged a different bit of the rotator cuff to before as my thereaband exercises don't aggravate it. Returned with it hurting only marginally more than when I left so that's good I suppose! Got a physio appointment this week closing up my knee, I'll ask her what rehab I should be doing.

I hope it was a reasonable trip down anyway. Doesn't sound too bad - maybe at that difficult level, where you're not forced to leave it alone, and stop climbing! Good luck with the physio. If it's of any hope, I managed to get a referral to someone to sort out my ankle injury, whilst in to see someone else about an impingement problem with my elbow. It had taken over 7 years to find the right physio, and it happened just by chance.

Now then (Geoffrey), Cricket injuries..

I used to practice flighting a ball from my living room, into the hallway, to see if I could get a decent leg break, around the corner and up the stairs. You can count the number of stairs as it bounces back down. Doing that too much left me with a pretty crunchy shoulder, and splotches of red paint and other damage. Anyway, I've stopped that. One of those dark arts I've always wanted to master.

I used to pick up lumps of grit to practice bowling with too. Possibly the worst elbow injury I've incurred was a spot of Golfers from doing too much "medium seam" with said lumps of grit. The extra mass really accentuated a whiplash effect through my fingers. I've stopped doing that too!

I used to enjoy going down to the local nets to practice. It was quite funny having the Asian lads ask me how I managed to get forearms so big - not that they ever have been, really, for a climber.

None of this is meant to imply that I was ever any good with a cricket ball, but my favourite anecdote is from school. I'd seen the photo of Moffatt on Ulysses, on the cover of Climber & Rambler, so I was psyched, and in the gym every day. On the way back, the captain of the school cricket team was in the nets, so I nonchalantly asked if he'd mind me having a bowl, just the one delivery. I bowled him middle and leg, with a full toss. Satisfying  :)

We ought to sort out a UKB match sometime...   :whistle:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on May 31, 2016, 03:03:33 pm
We ought to sort out a UKB match sometime...   :whistle:
Haha, count me out (unless it's in another 12 years)...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fried on June 09, 2016, 03:31:11 pm
Went to see the quack this morning, I'm now on high-blood pressure medication for the rest of my life. Wah.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 09, 2016, 03:40:27 pm
Went to see the quack this morning, I'm now on high-blood pressure medication for the rest of my life. Wah.

:(

Have you looked at the stuff about beetroot juice? I'm not going all homeopathicbollocks on y'all, MrsTT was involved in a trial of it for high BP in our local NHS trust... *disclaimer* It may well all be horseshit though..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fried on June 09, 2016, 03:48:43 pm
I love beetroot, I never eat it though. Probably a good time to start. A quick scan of beetroot juice articles revealed heavy usage of words such as might,may, possibly...Can I not just eat it raw?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 09, 2016, 04:22:32 pm
I love beetroot, I never eat it though. Probably a good time to start. A quick scan of beetroot juice articles revealed heavy usage of words such as might,may, possibly...Can I not just eat it raw?

Smeared on the chest ;) I have no idea - she just had some beetroot extract drink... it was red...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: filz on June 09, 2016, 04:36:53 pm
Went to see the quack this morning, I'm now on high-blood pressure medication for the rest of my life. Wah.

My sympathies. I've been taking pills to cure high blood pressure for a few year now.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 09, 2016, 05:32:05 pm
Went to see the quack this morning, I'm now on high-blood pressure medication for the rest of my life. Wah.

My sympathies. I've been taking pills to cure high blood pressure for a few year now.
And you went from bouldering 6b to 7b...  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fried on June 09, 2016, 05:37:56 pm
Well that's sorted, beetroot baths and pills and I'll be climbing 7A in no time ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: filz on June 09, 2016, 06:04:13 pm
And I thought that depended on training.. I can stop now :whistle:

Inviato dal mio Nexus 6P utilizzando Tapatalk

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 09, 2016, 11:16:11 pm
 ;D
Mofos.
I was meaning that high blood pressure medicaments haven't hindered Filz's progress!
I understand it's a pain in the ass. But being weak is a bigger pain in the ass, if you get what I mean.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sherlock on June 10, 2016, 09:11:38 am
;D

I understand it's a pain in the ass. But being weak is a bigger pain in the ass, if you get what I mean.
Been taking meds for high blood pressure for over 2 years now,linked to other health issues.Nibs is spot on with his comments above.
Personally I found the psychological side of having to take medication difficult-at first.I felt old all of a sudden.Once I'd got this straight in my head,I would say things have got much better.Good luck!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on June 16, 2016, 09:08:59 pm
Oh fuck. Sore red rash suddenly appeared this afternoon around a tick bite from two weeks ago. Lyme's?

Off to the doc tomorrow.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 16, 2016, 09:14:07 pm
Yes get it looked at... Whenever had tick bites they've swelled up fast then gone in a week or ten days... Which I think is my body's reaction to the bite not lymes (this happens to me with other bites too..)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 17, 2016, 08:38:30 am
Possibly a question a bit late to ask now, but did you keep the dead tick? Useful for testing for a diagnosis.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on June 17, 2016, 12:01:29 pm
No, unfortunately. Never occurred to me; I've removed load of ticks before and never had a readon to worry afterwards. Until now.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 17, 2016, 12:08:20 pm
Possibly a question a bit late to ask now, but did you keep the dead tick? Useful for testing for a diagnosis.

Apparently its the best way - as you have to wait a few weeks before taking any lymes tests... whereas on the beastie itself they can tell faster. THough being bitten by one with it doesnt mean you'll get it etc.. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 17, 2016, 12:34:53 pm
http://www.lymediseaseaction.org.uk/about-ticks/tick-removal/

In the UK you post your dead ticks for analysis, if you can be bothered.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on June 20, 2016, 10:12:41 am
Not Lyme's, just a generic infected tick bite. yyfy
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 20, 2016, 10:21:26 am
Good result. I hoped that might be the case.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on June 20, 2016, 11:03:52 am
Thanks. It's the first time I've ever had any kind of trouble following a tick bite, so was worried. I didn't realise that for it to look like Lyme's the red ring has to actually move around, not just grow.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duma on June 20, 2016, 11:16:37 am
phew, must be a relief
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 20, 2016, 11:45:00 am
Though bear in mind for anyone else reading that the target shaped rash appears for 80% of cases (as in for some it doesn't)..

(but glad it wasnt in your case..)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 20, 2016, 12:03:20 pm
Nice one Muench.

Though bear in mind for anyone else reading that the target shaped rash appears for 80% of cases (as in for some it doesn't)..

(but glad it wasnt in your case..)

I've read in a few places that this could be quite an under-estimate since it is much more likely that cases will be "missed" when the rash is not present...

Either way - don't assume "no rash = no Lymes".  I'd say, if you have had a tick bite and start to feel shitty but have no rash - definitely inform the doc!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 07, 2016, 02:20:15 pm
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/fe2c2324e6fa6461d265028bf8f452fd.jpg)

5 minutes and three moves into my project.
Why do these poxy things hurt so much and take so long to heal?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: a dense loner on July 07, 2016, 03:38:43 pm
Dartmoor? I get flappers just watching vids about that rock!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 07, 2016, 03:50:25 pm
Yep. Bone Hill. It's character building!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 07, 2016, 03:59:56 pm
Yep. Different strategies needed on Dartmoor Granite; what goes first, the problem, or your skin. Love it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cjsheps on July 08, 2016, 02:34:57 pm
Moved back from Spain a week and a half ago, back to rain and political shit. Had a big bust-up with my family, before ripping a fridge-sized block off a local sport route (which missed me) and getting a deep cut along the full length of my shoulder blade. Needed 8 stitches, and I'm in the middle of at least a week of zero exercise. Plus, my collateral ligament seems to have got worse, so my only activity at the moment is intensive physio.

I'm on my third season of Game of Thrones in three months, and I'm feeling borderline depressed.

Self-pity over.  :boohoo:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 09, 2016, 09:58:10 am
it's raining again

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuIu4hFMgT8
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on July 11, 2016, 06:46:25 pm
The last few sessions at eatswood I have been punting the final moves on the Reverse but took punterdom to a new level today.

Got to the end of the traverse fresh and had my right hand on the ledge and then did the cross through with the left arm to match on the ledge but instead of going over my right arm I somehow managed to punch my right wrist instead and promptly fell off.

 :slap: 

Got to the same point afterwards but pumped out. Oh well - progress of sorts.  :(

www.youtube.com/watch?v=X56TQ_Rk4RQ
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 11, 2016, 10:57:56 pm
Nooooooooooooo!

So close, I felt your pain. Utter dejection.

Had a similar experience tonight on a 7c+ route I've been trying lately. Got through the crux to punt-out on a not very hard move. Next 3 goes failed lower down, goddamit!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 12, 2016, 02:14:48 am
 :lol:  :clap2:

Note to self. Don't watch videos of Shark climbing, until you've finished eating what you've got in your mouth..

Absolutely priceless.

 :'(  Sorry
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 12, 2016, 07:19:15 am
You look like a shark who needed a hug at the end there Simon :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on July 12, 2016, 08:00:03 am
You look like a shark who needed a hug at the end there Simon :(

I've transcended shouting and swearing to a more desolate place
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 12, 2016, 08:07:16 am
You look like a shark who needed a hug at the end there Simon :(

I've transcended shouting and swearing to a more desolate place

Maybe take a pet rabbit (substitute for other fluffy cute animal you may like more) to eatswood to cheer you up afterwards?

(Please note that the BMC does not condone live animal sacrifices)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on July 12, 2016, 08:12:45 am
The last few sessions at eatswood I have been punting the final moves on the Reverse but took punterdom to a new level today.

Got to the end of the traverse fresh and had my right hand on the ledge and then did the cross through with the left arm to match on the ledge but instead of going over my right arm I somehow managed to punch my right wrist instead and promptly fell off.

 :slap: 

Got to the same point afterwards but pumped out. Oh well - progress of sorts.  :(

www.youtube.com/watch?v=X56TQ_Rk4RQ

The best part is I'm sure plenty of folk do eatswood reverse finishing at the start position of the traverse (duh!), i.e. one hand in the crack. So you've already done the problem but didn't notice. Now THAT'S a punter.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 12, 2016, 08:47:44 am
 :dance1:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on July 12, 2016, 08:59:17 am

The best part is I'm sure plenty of folk do eatswood reverse finishing at the start position of the traverse (duh!), i.e. one hand in the crack. So you've already done the problem but didn't notice. Now THAT'S a punter.

Really? In that case I've done it at least 4 times. Sounds like a cop out though.

My long term project is to link back into the Original for a mega pump as I doubt I'd get hardly anything back on the ledge
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dave on July 12, 2016, 09:05:34 am
Always seemed a no brainer to me to start the reverse at the point you finish the normal traverse, and finish it at the point you start the traverse, i.e. the definition of a reverse. Linking them together seems like a good idea to kill some time if you're determined not to train power for the Oak.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 12, 2016, 09:41:30 am
I'm fairly sure this has been said before but...
Fuck me you climb slowly!
The cotrast with syke Mike (?) in the cave is startling. I think you have been trying this for a while? I think I'd be hoping to have a more fluid and faster style. Sorry not wanting to pile criticism on top of misery...
Next time :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: petejh on July 12, 2016, 10:18:35 am
Amazing vid!  :lol: :lol: :lol:

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on July 12, 2016, 10:56:20 am
How do you play the vid at full speed?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: geoffg on July 12, 2016, 11:13:37 am
As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 12, 2016, 12:25:11 pm
How do you play the vid at full speed?

Take morphine. Or some speed. Though I can't figure out if being faster or slower would make the film faster or slower. Or give shark some speed. Or watch some lawn bowls.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on July 12, 2016, 04:53:57 pm
As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.

Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on July 12, 2016, 05:00:35 pm
Always seemed a no brainer to me to start the reverse at the point you finish the normal traverse, and finish it at the point you start the traverse, i.e. the definition of a reverse.

The thing is you start the Original from sitting but you don't end the Reverse by sitting down so the the sidepull is just another hold on the route when doing the Reverse whereas matching the ledge is a more natural finishing point.

Maybe Kristian is right - the Original should start from the ledge.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on July 12, 2016, 06:39:46 pm
As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.

Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray.

And, I am quite possibly the "New Baseline".  A video of me on the problem would resemble an eerie Eastern-European stop-motion animation, perhaps one of a tramp who finds himself in a nightmarish world where he keeps falling sideways. 

My only chance of climbing immortality is if the Olympic bid replaces the speed climbing element with the equivalent of a "slow bicycle race".
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 13, 2016, 01:43:31 pm
As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.

Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray.
Al Murray climbed on my board once. That was funny.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on July 16, 2016, 09:53:48 am
bit of a first world problem when compared to turkey and nice. turns out my dozy twat of a mate has booked our holiday through lowcostholidays. com which went bust yesterday,  and isn't in abta.  looks like the flights are ok but our hotel hasn't been paid for and we fly a week today.  so at the moment we'll probably have to pay for our rooms again. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 16, 2016, 12:13:31 pm
Paid by credit card? (Possible silver lining?)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on July 16, 2016, 01:37:47 pm
Paid by credit card? (Possible silver lining?)
we paid our friends by bank transfer as they paid lowcostholidays as  they did all the booking etc, unfortunately they paid by debit card, but they may be able to claim back through the chargeback scheme and their bank was fairly hopeful thismorning. Still as it's all inclusive and if we have to pay again, I'm going to eat and drink my money back... :alky: :pissed: :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Andy F V2.0 on July 16, 2016, 02:16:47 pm
As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.

Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray.

And, I am quite possibly the "New Baseline".  A video of me on the problem would resemble an eerie Eastern-European stop-motion animation, perhaps one of a tramp who finds himself in a nightmarish world where he keeps falling sideways. 

My only chance of climbing immortality is if the Olympic bid replaces the speed climbing element with the equivalent of a "slow bicycle race".

This is true. Mountain ranges get eroded faster than you climb. But you still get up the routes, antigravity slowness?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on July 16, 2016, 10:29:35 pm
Be poor enough, and even gravity can take pity.... or get bored.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on July 18, 2016, 11:24:34 am
Paid by credit card? (Possible silver lining?)
we paid our friends by bank transfer as they paid lowcostholidays as  they did all the booking etc, unfortunately they paid by debit card, but they may be able to claim back through the chargeback scheme and their bank was fairly hopeful thismorning. Still as it's all inclusive and if we have to pay again, I'm going to eat and drink my money back... :alky: :pissed: :icon_beerchug:

Just been confirmed that my holiday insurance doesn't cover it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 18, 2016, 11:33:04 pm
I got a phone call today from the accommodation that I've booked for 2 weeks in Tenerife (flying on Saturday) to say that they've double booked and the villa is not available - paid for it months ago

not a package holiday and not on credit card (cost was more than my credit card limit)

got some options sorted, but it was looking pretty grim this afternoon
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 19, 2016, 07:14:14 am
Fuckers.. :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 05, 2016, 12:49:21 pm
I'm working toward a level 4 Injury rehab trainer's Dip. Thought I'd short circuit it by 8 months by doing the "Intensive" course at the start of my second year (instead of halfway through).
Day 1
Just been handed 400+ pages of notes in A+P and Nutrition, exams (6 of them) a week Wednesday.
This would be why the lecturer smirked when I said I'd like to do it early...



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on September 05, 2016, 12:59:53 pm


Maybe Kristian is right - the Original should start from the ledge.
I think it makes more sense starting at the ledge, especially if people want something closer to a 7C experience. The crack start position is arbitrary and even less logical now the landing has been cleared than it it used to be. Rubble Rouser  starts from the ledge.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on September 05, 2016, 10:49:03 pm
As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.

Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray. is Geraldine.
fixed
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: J.Kydd on September 12, 2016, 12:31:46 pm
Cracking day bouldering at Portland yesterday with a couple of much stronger boys, Tom Bunn and Walker Kearney
Warmed up at 7a (which is my current best) and managed to send Devil Face in about 4 tries. YES!! Here I am now thinking that today could be a day of multiple 7's. How wrong I was!

Spent the whole rest of they day climbing well & hard on stuff, but all of which seemed just out of reach :(

Got to the Lighting Strike boulder right at the end of the day and after working out the moves felt like this suited me really well and would go. My first 7a+ would be a spanking end to the day
Psyched up, went for it, and dropped the very last move  :wall:

Had a couple more token efforts but I was totally gassed by this stage. NNFN
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 12, 2016, 12:48:56 pm
This is the closest to a YYFY a NNFN post can get.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 12, 2016, 01:04:48 pm
This is the closest to a YYFY a NNFN post can get.

Yup - great day out, tick PB, climb well, get close on a few probs that you can get back on next time, end day exhausted but without injury. An away win in my books.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on September 12, 2016, 01:05:50 pm
Do we need a new thread for Humblebrag Humblebrag Fucking Humblebrag?





Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: J.Kydd on September 12, 2016, 02:02:11 pm
Haha, you're telling me, I'm an emotional wreck!

Should be basking of YYFY of my sendage, but can't help feel the weight of the end of day NNFN
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 12, 2016, 02:46:54 pm
Sounds like you need a few more really shit days to appreciate the good ones more.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on September 12, 2016, 03:52:34 pm
'You never know what worse luck your bad luck has saved you from.'
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 12, 2016, 04:50:09 pm
Thou wert wise to chisel for me:   
“Taken from the evil to come.”
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 15, 2016, 07:37:01 pm
To continue the theme of partial NNFN's or more like Yes Yes fucking NO!....

Tomorrow I'm off to a conference in Fort Collins, Colorado.

Yup folks - thats about 5 miles from Horsetooth Reservoir where J.Gill put up all those classics. Pretty much as soon as the 2 day conference ends, I have to come back home (baby duty etc..)...

I packed my rock boots just in case, but its not going to happen :(


(Blunk - in case you read this hello! If I'd been any more organised and had free time I'd have been in touch.. hope all is going well!)

(https://www.mountainproject.com/images/47/0/108064700_medium_440ab5.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on September 15, 2016, 09:30:28 pm
Buy a couple of big lanterns from the nearest army surplus and sod the networking.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2016, 09:08:21 am
"I feel a bit jetlagged I might skip the reception and go lie down" - headtorch, rockboots, jobs a goodun.

In fact second thoughts, with jetlag you will be awake at about 4 am anyway, must be light by 5, and these things only get going by about 10
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 16, 2016, 09:50:34 am
Ahh... nice try but.... I'm an invited (and expenses paid) speaker - and it's for a small select group of about 30... so if I'm not there it'll be bloomin obvious... I may have 2-3 hours in the final afternoon free see ifnanone local at the meeting climbs - these meetings are often in fantastic locations, but as you spend most of your time listening to talks in an airconditoned windowless room you may as well be at a travel lodge in Slough :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 19, 2016, 03:54:43 pm
Just leaving Fort Collins - to rub it in my Hotel room had a mountain view - the boulders are just over the Hill from the big A on the hillside :( (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160919/9adadfdf222523883d7da16662a4a672.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 19, 2016, 03:56:31 pm
Looks steep!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 19, 2016, 04:11:30 pm
Looks steep!

Not when you lie down ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 19, 2016, 04:15:38 pm
Ah, or you are 1/4 the way round the world?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 19, 2016, 04:17:31 pm
Not sure - 5000ft up though...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on October 16, 2016, 09:33:55 am
It's not been the best year on the vehicle front. After the last van was written off in France, I got busy converting another one but it's been constantly beset by electrical gremlins since I've had it. The last two months have seen it living down at the garage permanently but on Friday, I picked it up and yesterday took it for a 60 mile run - it never missed a beat. The EGR is blanked, cat and silencer removed, new earth straps everywhere and sensor after sensor replaced and what a difference finally. All the live data reading as it should.

So decided to head back homewards, listening to some late nineties Oakenfold when this happened...

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14671371_10157622918440581_2128890194347466781_n.jpg?oh=fcc22161ada099d10e8916cbf284c1d0&oe=58AAA1A5)

It seems to the driveshaft bearing on the gearbox decided to collapse. One broken housing.

You really couldn't make this year up.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 16, 2016, 09:53:39 am
As a yoof, there was an old man - Turkish I think, with a workshop and inspection pit who used to help us with the odd thing too complex to fix by the road/under the car. He used to repeat "Car - money - fuck" with lots of disparaging had gestures... he was right then and still is now. Unlucky Kelvin :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 19, 2016, 05:16:21 pm
Gutted for you, you're having no luck.  Should be able to pick up a recon box?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on October 19, 2016, 05:57:02 pm
I'm having luck - it's just generally bad  :boxing:

I did have a bit of good luck however - seems the casing survived when it let go, so it's being dropped off the van in a week or so and being rebuilt by the local guru. New bearings etc. At least that way, I know it's actually been reconditioned and not just an old box sprayed silver.

My shoulders are in no fit state yet for a winter in Spain climbing, so it's not the end of the world.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatneck on October 20, 2016, 11:05:47 am
Have suffered with back stress on and off over the years and three months ago I trapped my sciatic nerve doing a fair amount of lifting at work and lost the feeling in half of my left foot.

Despite a course of Gabapentin and two physio appointments (with different physios = different diagnosis - one thought it was my not inconsiderable arse and the other was sure it was a slipped disc), I still have no feeling in half my foot and a pronounced limp. Hasn't really affected my climbing since I got used to it apart from outside edging. Went back to the GP and got referred for an MRI yesterday.

I've had zero back pain since trapping the nerve and have kind of settled back in to normal life which at work means a fair amount of shifting of crates (we run the North Liverpool Foodbank) but I suddenly came to the realisation that no back pain might actually be a bad thing! This has made me worry more, hence my post...

It feels good to share...  :wave:

Anyone else had experience of this? Interested in timescales etc...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 20, 2016, 11:33:49 am
I had a classic sciatic nerve compression years ago, due to cycling. That sonofabitch of the piriformis muscle.
A few days of hell spent in bed with antiinflammatories left me feeling better, but my right foot was quite numb on the external side, and my heel remained numb for quite a long time.
In the end it went.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on October 20, 2016, 11:53:11 am
I've had, since a surfing accident in ~'96, four Epidurals and numerous Physios and even tried Chiropractic (waste of time). Mine was a 4/5 lumber disc hernia. I had bouts of complete paralysis in my left leg, first for a four month period, around three months after the accident that lasted until my first Epidural. I have, however, been virtually pain/symptom free for a decade now. My last Physio, a German trained Brit, I met in Dubai; convinced me that it was principally a matter of core stability and strength.
Since then, as long as I keep my core strength up (and weighted dorsal raises are the staple here) I remain symptom free. If I let it slide, a twinge of sciatica soon hounds me back to the gym.
Do not, ever, do sit-ups; they are the devils own.
I do a single, rather major, core session each week; of mainly bar and ring based stuff.
 
Edit,
Sorry, I should say, I've always been strong and active; I had to take the core strength up a notch from the norm and become somewhat obsessive about it. Look at Gymnastic training for that level. It's quite achievable and requires very little equipment, even when you progress to weighted movements; ankle/wrist weight suffice.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatneck on October 20, 2016, 03:34:47 pm
Cheer Lore and Matt, since starting my new job I have struggled to fit Pilates in and going from two sessions a week every week to one every blue moon I'm sure has had an impact!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 20, 2016, 04:08:02 pm
Yoga might help (a mashed vertebra was what got me started) but I'd get Dr's input first. Cliff Bond in Liverpool is excellent, very down to earth. It's bien quite a while since I did yoga in Liverpool but he's on Facebook if you want to enquire: https://en-gb.facebook.com/people/Cliff-Bond/100009913597225 (https://en-gb.facebook.com/people/Cliff-Bond/100009913597225)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 23, 2016, 09:59:17 pm
It's not bad really but...

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161023/05f03e1eb77a5ae633eaf9f22218a726.jpg)

Butter wouldn't melt in his little mouth - but I caught the little f*cker marking his territory (aka pissing) all over one of my bouldering mats earlier :D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on October 23, 2016, 10:16:00 pm
That probably means your scent on the mat smells like cat piss.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on October 23, 2016, 10:22:10 pm
It's not bad really but...

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161023/05f03e1eb77a5ae633eaf9f22218a726.jpg)

Butter wouldn't melt in his little mouth - but I caught the little f*cker marking his territory (aka pissing) all over one of my bouldering mats earlier :D
Hah!
The kids' new rabbit pissed in my trainers, both, repeatedly and I didn't cotton on (because I pulled them on after they'd dried) until I took them off to put my climbing shoes on.
Rabbit piss is incredibly rank.
Enough that in a room full of sweaty climbers and minging rock shoes, I still almost hurled when I sniffed them to see if it was really me...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 24, 2016, 07:50:16 am
That probably means your scent on the mat smells like cat piss.

It was the way he backed up to the mat, flipped up the tail and gave a little wiggle (with a smug look) as he squirted.

I thought neutered tom's were not supposed to do that any more..? Oh well.

OMM - that's both funny and gruesome!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on November 02, 2016, 04:27:33 pm
Fifth injury of the year...

Doc recommending scans on elbow for nerve damage caused by missing my pad a couple of weeks ago. Let's hope the NHS is quick and that 2017 can bring fewer injuries   :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Murph on November 05, 2016, 12:18:23 pm
I have delayed a few opportunities to share one of these on the forum but today was different.

My twelfth session on Advanced Training, 7C+, and the sixth that has been entirely devoted to it since I first got through the low crux and figured "next time it will go". That feels a long time ago now. Today was utterly useless.

The "easy" top out to Man of Steel that I found so trivial back in September now feels aspirational. I cannot for the life of me fathom how I did that move static in just a couple of attempts, and coming back from a bouldering session feeling like a hero now feels a very distant memory indeed. Two hours this morning in bone dry conditions I tried and I tried to do that "easy" top move but never really got close.

It's a case of not trying hard enough (though I promise you I tried to try), combined with some genuine deconditioning that has come from getting out less often, saving skin all week for yet another unsuccessful send attempt, the crushing experience of going back to work with this unfinished business and the door slamming shut on my five sessions a week lifestyle.

So not with a bang but with a whimper I have to walk away from this thing for now. I cannot face devoting another week of my life to it and all the juggling and childcare that involves. No now. No. No. Fucking. No.

Good luck with your projects guys.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 02, 2017, 05:55:39 pm
Um...

Fuck!

My sympathies.

Doesn't cut it, but I mean it.


All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 02, 2017, 08:07:44 pm
I'm really sorry to read that Toby - my deepest sympathies. My mum died in the spring. Although we weren't with her when she did eventually die (in the early hours of the morning, after several days essentially unconscious) all her family were with her in her last lucid moments. She knew we were all there and, I think, knew and accepted what was happening. I think she was even happy in that moment. She told us she loved us and to look after each other. It was, so far as such a thing exists, a good death and that has helped me a great deal. The pangs of all you were not able to share with her, and your father, will probably always be there, I've little doubt, but I hope there will at least be some solace in the way of her going.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 04, 2017, 07:35:20 am
Sorry for your loss Toby. Thoughts with you and your family.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 04, 2017, 06:30:59 pm
Losing parents is massive, my condolences.

You've got the job now, baton's been passed on.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on February 21, 2017, 02:05:47 pm
New car last Thursday. Smashed window and rope stolen from the boot by Sunday. Gah. At least they left our bouldering mats.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 18, 2017, 11:39:11 am
Fucking general election called for June 8th...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on April 22, 2017, 08:37:29 am
Dislocated my toe yesterday during karate. It was stuck out sideways last my little toe, and because it had gone so far it tore the skin under my toes too for good measure. It was a "little bit stingy" when it was out back in. But why it's a NNFN is that I'm supposed to be going to the Nottingham gin festival today and we've even got baby sitters.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 22, 2017, 08:54:27 am
Dislocated my toe yesterday during karate. It was stuck out sideways last my little toe, and because it had gone so far it tore the skin under my toes too for good measure. It was a "little bit stingy" when it was out back in. But why it's a NNFN is that I'm supposed to be going to the Nottingham gin festival today and we've even got baby sitters.

Go anyway! Gin will help...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 22, 2017, 11:24:21 am
Dislocated my toe yesterday during karate. It was stuck out sideways last my little toe, and because it had gone so far it tore the skin under my toes too for good measure. It was a "little bit stingy" when it was out back in. But why it's a NNFN is that I'm supposed to be going to the Nottingham gin festival today and we've even got baby sitters.

http://www.mobilityequipmenthiredirect.com/mobility-equipment-hire/c1640-Mobility-Scooter-Hire-in-NOTTINGHAM-ENGLAND/
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: rich d on April 23, 2017, 10:26:45 am
I went drinking gin all day strangely helped with the pain.  :clap2:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 23, 2017, 12:23:45 pm
What are the rules for being drunk in charge of a mobility scooter Lagers?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 23, 2017, 03:05:32 pm
What are the rules for being drunk in charge of a mobility scooter Lagers?

You have to be very drunk.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 23, 2017, 10:57:09 pm
What are the rules for being drunk in charge of a mobility scooter Lagers?

pends if you are on the road or pavement

it's a whole subculture that Slackjaw need to make a documentary about
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on May 23, 2017, 10:21:12 am
Had a big off yesterday on my road bike, went over a blind summit and hit a lump of raised tarmac resulting in a tumble over the bars. Lots of grazes and swollen wrist plus shooting pains across my shoulders in to my biceps, from either whiplash or banging my upper spine.
Nothing broken other than my pride, bike doesn't look too bad scuffed handle bar tape, brake lever and saddle. Helmet cracked but it did its job.
Might not be posting too much in next weeks power club.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 23, 2017, 01:24:19 pm
Ouch! Have you been for a proper check up. At least bike is OK.

You can exchange some helmets for a discount after they have taken a bashing can't you.

Or just get a paper one!

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-38004215
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on May 23, 2017, 02:13:21 pm
Went to local minor injuries which was shut but saw the out of hours doctor who sent me to another minor injuries, who then  sent me to A& E. I was at the first one at 6 o'clock got home at 2.30 in the morning.
X rayed and CT scanned all clear apart from god knows what soft tissue damage.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 23, 2017, 02:56:30 pm
Glad the X ray and cT were clear.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 01, 2017, 09:55:37 am
Bit of rock I've been waiting for ages to dry out was finally dry last night. After working a few moves I promptly snapped off the crucial starting hold. Any suggestions for gluing schist. Or is it granite? Andy?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 01, 2017, 10:06:25 am
Hard to know without a location  ;) it'll be a pile of schist if it's your local.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 01, 2017, 10:19:00 am
Yep another local, just next door to where we went last time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 03, 2017, 09:30:20 pm
Bit of rock I've been waiting for ages to dry out was finally dry last night. After working a few moves I promptly snapped off the crucial starting hold. Any suggestions for gluing schist. Or is it granite? Andy?

I was out with the irrepressibly psyched Kevin Woods in Glen Lednock earlier this year after wandering up Ben Chonzie we went for a boulder on John Watson's "7b project". After a few attempts we decided the large "standing stone" right at spine height needed moved. While doing a full force leg press to topple it I started wondering where I would end up of it did topple...  Anyway, I digress.

Said 7b project had a lovely crimp rail halfway up a 35* overhanging schist boulder. We tried this method, that method, the next method. Back to "heel hook and pull hard" method but this time the rock had had enough and deposited me on my heel on a sharp rock. Not sure if I cracked anything but it was bloody sore for weeks!

pileofuckinschist....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 07, 2017, 02:43:05 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170807/8b989234280d09726c5e9df6230c4dea.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 07, 2017, 03:04:47 pm
That is a NNFN for all of first world humanity  >:(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 07, 2017, 03:15:31 pm
What is wrong with people?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 07, 2017, 03:21:00 pm
Quite. Soup in a basket next...

I was drinking wine from a jam jar on Saturday eve - but that was because there were no glasses left...

Edit - I thought that was breakfast in a jam jar at first but just noticed it's a kilner jar... equally ffs.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 07, 2017, 03:27:55 pm
A nice, big jar of freshly made vomit. The breakfast of champions.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on August 07, 2017, 03:36:25 pm
One for https://twitter.com/WeWantPlates

Dave's gonna love/hate that!  :popcorn:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on August 07, 2017, 08:05:10 pm
 :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on September 07, 2017, 08:58:46 am
I'm having my first day off work ill in over 6 years. Spent the night hallucinating with a fever on the sofa, and some sort of hybrid cold/flu mother fucker kicking my arse. Snot, snot, more snot, savage coughing that makes my eyes feel like they're gonna pop out my head, pressure in my head, weak as shit, constant thirst etc. I don't get ill, but when I do it flattens me.

Absolutely ruined, but hopefully through the worst today. Off to the shop for chicken soup and Lucozade soon!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on September 07, 2017, 09:33:35 am
Ginger tea with honey, lemon and whisky.

You could probably skip the ginger, honey & lemon
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Yossarian on September 07, 2017, 09:42:36 am
I'm having my first day off work ill in over 6 years. Spent the night hallucinating with a fever on the sofa, and some sort of hybrid cold/flu mother fucker kicking my arse. Snot, snot, more snot, savage coughing that makes my eyes feel like they're gonna pop out my head, pressure in my head, weak as shit, constant thirst etc. I don't get ill, but when I do it flattens me.

Absolutely ruined, but hopefully through the worst today. Off to the shop for chicken soup and Lucozade soon!

I would love to hear Danny Dyer read that post out loud...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 07, 2017, 10:22:00 am
Ginger tea with honey, lemon and whisky.

You could probably skip the ginger, honey & lemon
And the tea.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Muenchener on September 07, 2017, 11:33:11 am
I don't put any actual tea in ginger tea anyway. Otherwise yes.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 07, 2017, 11:54:18 am
I don't put any actual tea in ginger tea anyway. Otherwise yes.
I was thinking of all that water polluting the nectar...

*Shudder!*
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 07, 2017, 11:54:35 am
I don't put any actual tea in ginger tea anyway. Otherwise yes.
I was thinking of all that water polluting the nectar...

*Shudder!*
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 18, 2017, 01:53:00 pm
So I was moved to try and venture back into Sport.

It's not going well.

Somewhere between 5 and 10 moves and I'm pumped. My feet are plopping around like spastic Goldfish on a chopping board etc etc and several years of working problems with a timer set for 3min on 3min off has screwed me.
(I actually thought my running and otherwise excellent fitness would carry me through. How wrong).

Still, today was the first session and not the reason for the post.

I lost track of time. I had to be back in Torquay to open the wall at 12. At 11:40, I'm still in Torbryan, nattering to TobyD. I don't know where my head was, I suddenly realise I can't get back in time.

Fuck, fuck, fuckity. I've left the car in the car park, so sprinting up the path beside the road, I grab my phone, call Polly to get over to the Bunker and open up.

The path is a bit overgrown.

My clip-stick is sticking up, higher than my head, securely attached to the axe loops on my Bergan.

Unfortunately, the creeper that crossed the path just above head height, was also firmly attached....

The phone conversation went something like:
"Pant, Huff, Polly! CanyougetintotheBunkertoopenupbecauseI'mstilatTorbrEEERK!"

My feet were suddenly higher than my head.

In that moment, as Gravity forgot me at the apex of my downfall; I watched my phone lazily somersault into the fricking brambles.

Apparently, an 80mtr rope, gear and 81kg of me, can put quite a strain on a Coccyx, when dropped on it from a height of just over a meter.

I was late and Polly hasn't stopped laughing yet.

 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 18, 2017, 02:02:38 pm
Should laugh mate, but that's funny as fuck, and the type of stupid shit I do all the time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 18, 2017, 09:11:16 pm
Should laugh mate, but that's funny as fuck, and the type of stupid shit I do all the time.

No, no, you were definitely meant to laugh.
Had you seen me climbing beforehand, even more so.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 19, 2017, 04:39:27 pm
F'n F F, with knobs on.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170919/08b6bf5494b871fee3ad0f6a70c97693.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 24, 2017, 09:34:10 am
my left foot joint swelling and pain had almost reduced to the point where I could put on a comfy rock shoe and put some weight on the edge

it swelled right up again on Friday - possibly due to me walking to work to test the foot (easy half hour stroll on pavement concentrating on good form) - and now I can't put any weight on the front of that foot

X ray didn't show any break, Dr says it's just wear and tear and to keep eating pain killers

whole foot is slightly swollen and more red than the right one (the right foot is the one full of screws and scars)

almost no range of movement in both joints on the big toe - just pain

most distressing

buggering bastard

(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DRzKLvWX0AE3XBo.jpg)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 24, 2017, 09:49:11 am
Nothing showing on x-ray?
Weird.
The description sounds like a flare of my arthritis (in my case Halux ridgidus, an ostio arthritis) which definitely shows on x-ray.
My son has Rheumatoid arthritis, which is not visible on x-ray (soft tissue issue) but presents in a similar fashion, albeit far more widespread (usually more than one joint) though most of his flares are in one joint. We’re told that is unusual and fortunate as it may not b3 idiopathic, but reactive and therefore not permanent (this seems to be the case as he has had fewer and less severe flares as time goes on).
There are blood tests for this and Ultra sound highlights the inflamation. Reactive arthritis is usually triggered by a viral infection, as I understand, and rarely permanent; though you may become more sensitive to such responses after an occurrence (it was described to me as analogous to a allergic response).

Worth checking? 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 24, 2017, 10:46:12 am
Get yourself to Rotherham MS Therapy centre (Hyperbaric Oxygen Therapy). That'll do you reet!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 12, 2018, 07:24:58 am
First NNFN post of the 2018...

After a few great months and a lovely day on the Eskdale Granite yesterday (including a quick ascent of Strong Arete) I carried on trying another problem when I felt I should give up.

Obviously this was a stupid idea and now I can't even start to squeeze a stress ball without excruciating pain in my second joint, middle finger.

Balls balls balls.

Going too book into a local finger specialist to assess the damage this week. Seems to happen everyone every time I start going well and go for a big day...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 12, 2018, 08:45:01 am
My experience of Eskdale granite was that at it was pretty grim. I think I was bouldering there in late spring or some other such bullshit tho.

Hope the finger heals well.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Palomides on March 20, 2018, 04:00:18 pm
After a few years of getting weaker on small crimps, X-rays show arthritis in DIP joints (not really a surprise and I've had a pretty good run, basically crimping the shit out of everything for about 30 years).

Specialist doc next week. Not quite ready to chuck it in and buy a new bike yet, there are still a few hardish things I'd like to do.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2018, 01:24:31 pm
Not good! If you don't mind me asking, how old are you now? My ring fingers seem to be permanently swollen and sore these days.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Palomides on March 21, 2018, 03:49:07 pm
Only 46!

A cursory google search doesn't throw up any systematic links between climbing and finger joint arthritis, so I guess I'm just unlucky.... although I prefer "special"  ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 21, 2018, 04:41:50 pm
Is it an Osteoarthritis?
I’m told my Halux rigidus is probably non-freezing cold injury related. Though I actually had frostbite further up yhe same toe...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 22, 2018, 09:07:18 am
Only 46!

A cursory google search doesn't throw up any systematic links between climbing and finger joint arthritis, so I guess I'm just unlucky.... although I prefer "special"  ;D

You've got 2 years on me then. Mine are actually feeling OK now, maybe just overreacting, was a tough session repeatedly trying a problem on crimps on a 45 board.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on March 22, 2018, 01:31:30 pm
After a few years of getting weaker on small crimps, X-rays show arthritis in DIP joints (not really a surprise and I've had a pretty good run, basically crimping the shit out of everything for about 30 years).

Back in 1983 I climbed with Charlie "Wrinkle" Creese, a strong and talented Kiwi. He'd just been diagnosed as having arthritis in his finger joints. His consultant recommended he keep climbing but nothing too hard. Which is what he did...for about two weeks. He went on to put up New Zeland's first 30 (8a+, and knowing CC probably a sandbag) and is still cranking. It ain't over...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Palomides on March 22, 2018, 01:55:09 pm
This guy?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwOBNz10uDQ

He looks a bit older than me, but his fingers don't look so fucked up.. my knuckles have been deformed since I was about 18.

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm still OK open-handed, so haven't sold my gear and burnt my shoes yet.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on March 22, 2018, 02:05:21 pm
The very same.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on March 22, 2018, 03:02:40 pm
My finger joints are a mess, but I can still crimp. The worst bit though is that as soon as I release pressure from the hold, I'm in searing pain for a few seconds and quite often have to shake out the hand before using the next hold. I'm just more choosy about what kind of routes and problems I do these days, as long as it isn't crimp after crimp it's fine.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Palomides on April 08, 2018, 09:38:07 am
Well, the visit to the specialist about my fingers was really as I expected, in that he essentially took one look and asked if I do any other sports... had a final go at the wall that evening and am forced to admit that even pulling gently on big holds hurts. Taping doesn't help and it's time to stop.  :shit:

I've been prescribed a month of Voltarel gel to calm down the current inflammation, I've taken down the fingerboard and have bought new running shoes  :goodidea: I might get back to doing easier routes one day, but at the moment I don't really w 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Palomides on April 08, 2018, 10:22:27 am
(not sure what happened there.. forum time has reset, can't edit?? - here's the whole thing)

Well, the visit to the specialist about my fingers was really as I expected, in that he essentially took one look and asked if I do any other sports... had a final go at the wall that evening and am forced to admit that even pulling gently on big holds hurts. Taping doesn't help and it's time to stop.  :shit:

I've been prescribed a month of diclofenac gel to calm down the current inflammation, I've taken down the fingerboard and have bought new running shoes  :goodidea: I might get back to doing easier routes one day, but at the moment I don't really want to - I'd always be worried about smaller holds, I'd always be looking at the hard routes next door and the doc made it quite clear that I have limited use left in my fingers. I have to economise what I have left as they'll never get any better. I could keep going for a while, my fingers aren't that bad, but stepping back now misses out a lot of frustration and avoids the potential for things getting really bad. I still need to be able to drive, use a computer and feed myself for quite a few years (all things that sometimes make my fingers ache now!).

I'll see you all over on Strava, and on the "One for the runners" thread  :dance1:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on April 08, 2018, 10:58:58 am
Sorry to hear that Palomides.  It sounds like you're making a sensible decision and you come across as relatively positive in spite of the diagnosis.  Good luck with the treatment and I'm sure you'll find great pleasure in whatever you decide to do.


Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 08, 2018, 03:07:38 pm
:( sounds like you're doing the right thing...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 08, 2018, 05:31:32 pm
Sorry to read that Palomides, very frustrating. Fell running might be fun, but have you tried yoga (especially Astanga) - it can scratch a surprisingly similar itch to climbing- technical, demanding, endless progression... Good luck!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 09, 2018, 08:20:58 am
Wow strong post Palomides, you're doing the right thing.
Best of luck!
 :strongbench:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 17, 2018, 10:57:04 am
Not good, but plenty of other fun games to play out there!

Need to change your Avatar!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sherlock on April 17, 2018, 03:21:13 pm
 
(not sure what happened there.. forum time has reset, can't edit?? - here's the whole thing)

Well, the visit to the specialist about my fingers was really as I expected, in that he essentially took one look and asked if I do any other sports... had a final go at the wall that evening and am forced to admit that even pulling gently on big holds hurts. Taping doesn't help and it's time to stop.  :shit:

I've been prescribed a month of diclofenac gel to calm down the current inflammation, I've taken down the fingerboard and have bought new running shoes  :goodidea: I might get back to doing easier routes one day, but at the moment I don't really want to - I'd always be worried about smaller holds, I'd always be looking at the hard routes next door and the doc made it quite clear that I have limited use left in my fingers. I have to economise what I have left as they'll never get any better. I could keep going for a while, my fingers aren't that bad, but stepping back now misses out a lot of frustration and avoids the potential for things getting really bad. I still need to be able to drive, use a computer and feed myself for quite a few years (all things that sometimes make my fingers ache now!).

I'll see you all over on Strava, and on the "One for the runners" thread  :dance1:

That's really hard for you mate.
It's posts like this that make me realize how fortunate I am in being able to continue doing the shit I love. After 4 years of lousy and continuing health issues (MS and partially sighted FWIW) I am still lucky enough to be looking forwards and if the hammer drops tomorrow, some fantastic days with fantastic people to remember.
Good luck Palomides,you're sounding really positive.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Ian T on April 17, 2018, 04:52:37 pm
Palomides, whilst I would certainly advise you to listen to the advice from the specialist, I can also give you some positive hope as a fellow sufferer.

Although I only have two DIP joints with osteoarthritis, one is particularly bad (Imagine an elephants foot bent at 15deg!). When I was first diagnosed about 3 years ago I had 6 months of very intense pain and I really thought it was game over. The medical advice I received was basically "If it gets very bad we can give you pain killers or fuse the joint, bye". After 6 months the pain gradually decreased and it is now only a minor inconvenience which doesn't limit my climbing at all. The only 'meds' I take are rosehip, which acts as a minor anti-inflammatory.

So maybe stick with the running shoes for a bit, but don't give up hope completely.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 18, 2018, 10:42:59 am
Imagine an elephants foot bent at 15deg

Sounds like mine. I've just given fingers a 3 week break, and swelling seems to have gone down a bit, and no pain where it was hurting before, going to climb again next week, and see how they feel.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Ru on April 18, 2018, 10:52:20 am
Well, the visit to the specialist about my fingers was really as I expected, in that he essentially took one look and asked if I do any other sports... had a final go at the wall that evening and am forced to admit that even pulling gently on big holds hurts. Taping doesn't help and it's time to stop.  :shit:

I've been prescribed a month of Voltarel gel to calm down the current inflammation, I've taken down the fingerboard and have bought new running shoes  :goodidea: I might get back to doing easier routes one day, but at the moment I don't really w

2 things:

Firstly it may be worth speaking with Prof Volker Schoeffl in Bamberg. The price of flights plus appointment won't be cheap but also probably not as much as you expect. Steve McClure and several others have gone to him with chronic finger injuries.

Secondly, it may be worth exploring whether there are any non-climbing causes to the arthritis that can be fixed. Diet/food intolerance for example can be a cause of arthritis and dietary change can have a large effect in reducing arthritic inflammation to a manageable level.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 18, 2018, 10:55:34 am
Palomides - sorry to hear that dude, I hope you either enjoy the running, or the fingers ease off, or you get totally into off-width cracks. Best wishes either way  :strongbench:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 24, 2018, 09:50:43 pm
So, loaded kids in car (two of them, anyway), dogs, strapped pads to the roof and set off to Bonehill for a hot day session.
Got onto the A380 and there’s a twang, the roof strap snaps and pads go flying.
There’s no hard shoulder.
So, we whip up to the Kingsteignton junction (100mtrs? Not much more), spin round, back to the Newton Abbot junction (1/2 mile? ish), lights on the roundabout and back to the layby just before the point where they blew off. Kids safe, I ran back along the road.

Bloody gone.

Less than ten minutes.

Oh, and it now costs £4.95 to report the loss and get a report for the insurance, because Devon and Cornwall police have privatised that function...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 25, 2018, 08:56:45 am
The right wing along wih Lega Nord just won the elections for the Mayor in Siena.
A town with a strong libertarian, republican and antifascist history, just stepped into barbarity.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 25, 2018, 09:12:45 am
The right wing along wih Lega Nord just won the elections for the Mayor in Siena.
A town with a strong libertarian, republican and antifascist history, just stepped into barbarity.

Lore, it’s global.
People feel lost and disenfranchised, conmen and hucksters with loud voices promise simple solutions to complex problems. The illusion of strength, is beguiling to the weak, the illusion of being part of a “movement”.
History, science, facts in general; mean little to those who slept through those lessons or even to those too caught up in their own daily misery to give much thought to intricacies of the world.
It’s not even a function of intelligence, simply that it will only ever be a minority of people who will stop and truly contemplate or empathise.
Most will blithely ignore everything thats not right in their path, until the world begins to intrude on their personal bubble, then scream for “someone to do something about it” and cling to the first firm voice that agrees with them.
A world where people read the headlines, but never the whole article; let alone seeking out alternative views.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 25, 2018, 09:34:38 am
Interesting what happened in the US re: child separations at borders.

It appears that the 'new' politic does have limits/lines that should not be crossed....

I am optimistic that there will be a global revulsion at what is happening - and optimistic it will not take a horrific war(s) to bring on that realisation (as happened with Hitler, Mussolini, Franco, genocide, concentration caps.. & ww2).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 25, 2018, 10:11:26 am
Oh, and it now costs £4.95 to report the loss and get a report for the insurance, because Devon and Cornwall police have privatised that function...

The what????
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 25, 2018, 10:46:13 am
It depends where you lose something, some areas are “subsidised”, some free and some chargable.
To give you a clue how this is heading, when first reaching the site, you must choose whether you are in the US or the UK...

https://www.reportmyloss.com/uk/ (https://www.reportmyloss.com/uk/)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 25, 2018, 11:29:47 am
Matt, thank you, it sucks nonetheless.
I know it's global, but of course each one suffers for its own Country. Not to say that here we have a strong past with which many still have to seriously deal, so the stench of fascism is even less bearable.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 25, 2018, 11:38:47 am
But it all happens in the most local of ways imaginable.

Sadly, I think Global puts it somewhere else, with someone else, when in reality, we're all in the same place.

Good posts, both.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 25, 2018, 12:46:53 pm
Matt, thank you, it sucks nonetheless.
I know it's global, but of course each one suffers for its own Country. Not to say that here we have a strong past with which many still have to seriously deal, so the stench of fascism is even less bearable.

My (one of) Great Grandfather was a Communist in Napoli, who had to run to Malta when Il Duce rose to power.
My Grand parents grew up in the ‘30s, both used to talk about the Black shirts. That Grand Father also used to try and explain that even amongst his shipmates (Royal Navy) during the war, there were those that reckoned the Nazi’s had a few good points.
Populism strikes the same cords, with the same types, regardless of nationality or race. Fascism is just one form and actually more nebulous than the strict dictionary definition. It really isn’t far removed from the French Revolution (s) and the rise of Robespierre, and very similar to Napoleon’s ascension. Even comparable to Cromwell’s nasty little soirée into populist governance. There can’t be many nations that don’t have a replica of that particular skeleton in their closet.
Apparently, the USA is late to this party, but are catching up...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 25, 2018, 01:01:05 pm
As a rule, I have been very wary of reaching for the term "fascism" as, in most cases, it is an inappropriate and somewhat lazy comparison, but the signs in the US are currently very worrying. The country remains a long way from fascism, but the drift is undeniable right now. I am not particularly optimistic.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 25, 2018, 01:12:56 pm
To me, it’s just a term that covers a multitude of populist/strongman/single party regimes throughout history, that all seem to bare enough similarities to be lumped in together.
I mean, a bear with white fur, is just as deadly as it’s brown cousin.

I like the Wikipedia definition (hey! Language is fluid, do you “Vacuum” your carpet, or “Hoover” it?).
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fascism (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fascism)

Or to put it another way, it’s just a (relatively) new word for an old demon...

Edit:
Actually, this is a better summation and I see Andy’s point.

https://www.newstatesman.com/world/2018/06/warning-signs-donald-trump-nazi (https://www.newstatesman.com/world/2018/06/warning-signs-donald-trump-nazi)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 25, 2018, 01:56:49 pm
Andy, I could agree with you about the term fascism, because I know your vast cultural background and formation.
Unfortunately, you're an exception.
I know that the definition is not specifically exact, but it covers all the blurriness in which the fascists revel and prosper.
The present right wing has undefined borders, that somehow, to a blind eye, allow them to always deny being fascists. But it's this lack of definition that allow them to sit in Parliaments here and there.
So, I use the term fascist to make clear that I know their game. It's 2018, but if these very persons were in 1933, or in 1921, they would wear brown or black shirts and march in the streets.
It's like the old: "I'm not racist, but..." Or: "I'm not homophobic, but..."
It's that "but" that makes all the difference.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 25, 2018, 02:02:32 pm
Thanks Matt, that article is a useful summation. Over or inappropriate use of terms such as fascism dilute its power and usefulness as a rhetorical tool. I would be particularly wary of lumping all forms of populism in with fascism. For example, the People's Party, a late C19th US agrarian party, were certainly populists but also definitely not fascists - but then that's the historian in me insisting on some specificity. Btw, my initial comments weren't aimed at anything anyone had said here.

Weirdly, despite the fact Hoover was a US company, Americans seem never to use the name as a verb in the way we do in Britain. My wife looked at me like I was mad first time I said I was going to do the Hoovering.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 25, 2018, 02:07:38 pm
The present right wing has undefined borders, that somehow, to a blind eye, allow them to always deny being fascists. But it's this lack of definition that allow them to sit in Parliaments here and there.
So, I use the term fascist to make clear that I know their game.

This exactly Lore - we should not always fear to use the term, but reserve it for when it helps explain something we can observe. And lest we forget, the initial route to fascism in both Italy and Germany was via the ballot box as well as the boot.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 25, 2018, 02:18:07 pm
Exactly Andy.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 25, 2018, 02:33:41 pm
Also, I should have said that I am sorry to hear the news from Siena. I think it is especially disturbing when it happens somewhere we know and love.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 25, 2018, 02:35:48 pm
Cheers Andy.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on June 25, 2018, 06:24:25 pm
Siena... sorry to hear that, no one on here wants to report anything similar about where we live :(

Re fascism, the Guardian had this to say
Quote
in 1938, a New York Times reporter warned: “When and if fascism comes to America it will not be labelled ‘made in Germany’; it will not be marked with a swastika; it will not even be called fascism; it will be called, of course, ‘Americanism’.”

https://www.theguardian.com/books/2017/feb/03/americanism-us-writers-imagine-fascist-future-fiction
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 26, 2018, 11:15:22 pm
Thanks for the support guys. Much appreciated.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: BrutusTheBear on September 08, 2018, 09:40:03 pm
Totally insignifcant  in comparison to having fascists elected locally (although one could argue convincingly that our present government is facist).. :'(
For the first time I Fell off hanging flakes at Combeshead Tor, Dartmoor around about this time last Saturday.  Rolled my ankle on landing and the pain commenced.  Had a ride in a whirlybird to hospital.  Fractured ankle..
Apparently it’s not a bad one, I have an ‘air cast’ which I can remove and I am allowed to weight it as soon as I feel able.  As the swelling goes down the mobility is improving.
Any advice for speeding recovery appreciated.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on September 08, 2018, 10:11:51 pm
No advice on healing but if you get fed up with crutches these things are the biz
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=knee+scooter&rlz=1C9BKJA_enGB690GB691&hl=en-GB&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj2wYTtqKzdAhXJasAKHfYCBtwQ_AUIEigC&biw=1024&bih=653#imgrc=HD12JQFKqPbCpM:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 10, 2018, 07:22:11 am


Would you, in fact, be considering these nuances; as one of the little darlings was chowing down on the soft tissues of your face?

Or, possibly, “Oh look! Aren’t I lucky to be one of the relatively few people to be mauled by a Black bear!”

Personally, I suspect I’d go with “F#%king bears, all the f#%king same. Bastards!” or similar.
Possibly just “Arrrghhhhuuuurkkk...ukkk...” but you get the idea.

Politically speaking, I was lamenting the fact that, as you move from the political centre, toward either extreme, the believers seem to become more similar to their opposite numbers.

I understand that this is intellectually lazy, on my part.

However, in my defence, I just cannot be arsed to apply rigorous classification to distinguish between, the bunch of wankers with uniforms (little silver badge) that want to kill my neighbour (two doors down, old Mr Weinstien) because he’s the source of all woes and insist that my family and I must labour for the good of the state. Or, the other group (similar uniform, green flash) who want to kill Mr Weinstien and Mr&Mrs Patel (three doors up, similar reasons) and want me and my family to convert to their religion. Or, that other bunch (same f#@king uniform, Red flag on sleeve) that  want to kill Mr Johnson (opposite) because he sells insurance for the bank and anyone who asks why, and want my family and I to labour for the good of the state...

And so on.

So I prefer to go with “Bastards! All of them!”

To be fair, though, they do have a point about the Insurance salesman.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on September 10, 2018, 11:23:07 am
Excellent.

Thinking about it a little, I'd suggest the reference to "political centre" is redundant.

Polarised and extreme thinking is by definition about the opposing ends.

Irrationality of all kinds might be even more deadly when hidden at the centre - where everything is decidedly beige.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 10, 2018, 11:59:42 am
Any advice for speeding recovery appreciated.

As said elsewhere, unlucky! Only advice I can give is follow medical recommendations, and don't overdo it. In some ways a bone heals faster than a tendon.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on September 10, 2018, 01:07:02 pm
No advice on healing but if you get fed up with crutches these things are the biz
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=knee+scooter&rlz=1C9BKJA_enGB690GB691&hl=en-GB&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj2wYTtqKzdAhXJasAKHfYCBtwQ_AUIEigC&biw=1024&bih=653#imgrc=HD12JQFKqPbCpM:

This surely misses the point of ankle injuries which is to get beastly strong lats., triceps and grip via crutch-walking marathons?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 10, 2018, 05:04:33 pm
Look like way more fun than crutches though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 10, 2018, 10:34:41 pm
It actually happened a couple of months ago, but RIP to my board. I can't believe the amount of incredible use we got out of for well over ten years. Myself, Pete Chadwick, Euan McCallum, and Merseyside legend Will Sim (see in the picture still doing hard problems at 70) were the regulars. Other frequent users at times included Will Hunt when he now't but a lad, Rich Kirby and Adam Lincoln more recently. Monolith put in some appearances and there occasional guest appearances from luminaries such as Andy Brown and Steve Dunning. It would have been great to have got Nibile on it.

(https://scontent.fphl1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/48319048_10156729860444590_7782758049210433536_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent.fphl1-1.fna&oh=7219bcf84e6dfb069f263d5c8a98adb8&oe=5CAB3C71)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 11, 2018, 09:04:33 am
 :-[
Lovely post Andy, thank you.
Well, we could always reverse things, with you coming over to my board, that has seen a few notable appearances: Monolith, Michele Caminati, James Pearson and Caroline, and various other obsessed ones.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on December 18, 2018, 08:39:18 am
Had the results of my knee scans back... So it turns out the surgery I had 8 years ago (couldn't really remember what they did) removed most of my lateral meniscus, the one you can't live without. This impact basically bashed my Femur and Tibia together as there was no cartilage in between to protect it so the pain is from a heavy bone bruise / minor surface fracture. Good news is this will get better by itself in 6 - 16 weeks.

Bad news is that I'll need to have a lateral meniscus transplant in the next five to ten years to prevent arthritis  :'(

Has anyone on here got experience of meniscectomies / meniscal transplants?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 18, 2018, 09:07:30 am
A mate had transplant done can't remember which, but he's presently working his way through his last munroes.  message me if you have a FB account and i'll try put you in touch.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 18, 2018, 09:09:20 am
Wow Coops - that must have been a surprise!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 18, 2018, 11:18:20 am
So sorry Coops, I feel your pain.
I had my left medial meniscus done a few years ago, I had sliced it horizontally and I think they cut away the posterior horn, I don't know to which extent. During the operation they also found that my medial collateral ligament was broken, basically I only had a mess of fibers barely stuck around in the cap. So they cleaned everything, and that made the recovery much longer.
I am now facing probably another problem to my right knee, again the collateral and probably posterior horn of the medial meniscus.
Left is now fine, and right is still functional but very close angles are painful, so no climbing and much more difficult to ride my motorcycle...
Will have a MR scan soon, I fear the result...
Good luck and keep us posted.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on December 18, 2018, 11:26:02 am
 Bugger, yours sounds quite complex. Hope everything goes well with the scan. Yeah, mine's the result of a bucket handle tear 8 years ago to my lateral meniscus (doc said he'd never seen a lateral tear like that before)  :look: Been loading up on a load of bone vitamins that are meant to help...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on December 18, 2018, 11:51:25 am
Commiserations Coops. Sounds grim. Can you weightbear for the 6-16 week period?

How did you guys originally hurt your knees? They sound more like the injuries footballers rather than climbers get.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 18, 2018, 01:32:43 pm
During the operation they also found that my medial collateral ligament was broken
Make that the cruciate ligament. Otherwise they wouldn't have cleaned the insode of my knee... Collateral is the right knee...
Anyway: I probably broke my left cruciate with years and years of repeated micro traumas, skiing and playing basketball mainly. Never had a major issue. Sliced my left meniscus heel hooking. 'nuff said. I don't know if maybe I also did some more damage to the cruciate. I had a knee the size of a rugby ball, a bit too much for a sliced meniscus.
I hurt my right collateral while foot on campusing, locking off front on, with right foot and right knee strongly pointed right, pressing down very hard. Then I did something to my right meniscus probably playing basketball again, but more probably simply kneeling down to the ground for a while to play with my girlfriend's two years old niece.
It was worth, she's so nice.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on December 18, 2018, 02:20:09 pm
Commiserations Coops. Sounds grim. Can you weightbear for the 6-16 week period?
Yeah, should be able to start using it climbing mid Jan-ish I hope. Hobbling around at the moment, seems to range in pain from feeling fine to almost falling over...

How did you guys originally hurt your knees? They sound more like the injuries footballers rather than climbers get.
Mine was from wear and tear playing rugby throughout my childhood and teenage years
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 24, 2019, 03:23:39 pm
Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.

Seems folk have generally had an OK start to the year.

Not wishing to preempt anything, it's always worth thinking that someone out there has probably had a worse time than you.

Just saying..

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33809839158_42d22f9faa_h.jpg)

(Saved to my "roadkill" album. This reminds me of a photo that Bubba took of a splatted Frog we found at the Tor, that we referred to as "Dyno Frog")
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 14, 2019, 08:50:33 am
Got back to my car after going round a shop in a retail park with my daughter yesterday to discover some weirdo had keyed across 3 panels. Perfectly parked, although car along my side was a bit close to the line so presumably he/she took exception to having to be careful passing between our vehicles.

How inadequate do you have to be to behave like that? I’m glad I’m not that freak.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on August 14, 2019, 09:37:00 am
I was thinking about this the other week - I use the Leeds Park and Ride, which invariably involves parking a fair way from the bus terminal, then walking between cars, carrying my laptop rucksack thing, which is festooned with an array of buckles, straps etc.

I'm sure my car has picked up a few scratches from others doing the same (not that I care in my £2k shed), but now when I'm weaving inbetween cars I'm really careful to keep my bag off my shoulder, and try to avoid going inbetween new / nice motors!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 14, 2019, 09:49:05 am
Good to be careful t2t! This however is a deep horizontal gouge from above the rear wheel arch across to the driver’s door which would have needed the force of a key to create. Unbelievable.

A little reminder for me that not everyone is like the nice, normal people we generally work and hang out with.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on August 14, 2019, 11:12:38 am
My solution to this problem is the aforementioned £2k Saab shed. Amazing how stress free motoring is when you drive an effectively disposable vehicle.


That said:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VO48Vr4KIc8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VO48Vr4KIc8)

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 14, 2019, 12:12:45 pm
My solution to this problem is the aforementioned £2k Saab shed. Amazing how stress free motoring is when you drive an effectively disposable vehicle.


My theory buying cars, from a mechanical idiot, is

 £0-£2000 - possibly good, possibly shit, at least if its a wrong'un it won't have broken the bank
£2k-5k - the danger zone. Significantly more money laid out for very little risk removed; might well still be shit.
£5k plus - probably more likely to be good than shit; the odds are more in your favour at least.

If anyone has any improvements I'm all ears!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on August 14, 2019, 12:15:10 pm
Age/mileage needs to be an important variable in there too. The car I like the least, though, has been my most expensive and lowest mileage purchase.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 14, 2019, 12:59:06 pm
Imho The sweet spot is to buy at 1yo (30-40% of new price already gone. More if certain marques). Still with 2 years (or more) of warranty.

Run for 3 years. Sell for c. 50% of what you paid for it.

Assuming you buy at 15 and sell at 7.5 that’s 2.5k per year.

Appreciate that’s not everyone’s buy in point but cheaper than most finance / lease plans and no real mileage/returning conditions concerns.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on August 14, 2019, 01:13:30 pm
I've been lucky with the last few I've had:

£1400 Nissan Micra - tinny little box, no frills (no central locking, aerobic windows) but bloody hell, it just kept going and going.
£2000 Skoda Fabia - very lucky, mate in the trade landed on a trade-in with 30k on the clock and literally one old lady owner from new. Kept us going for 8 years and c.50k which is a hell of an ROI.
£2000 Saab 9-3 Aero - current ride - not exactly cheap to run but never get tired of the power, and as a family runaround it makes long trips to see family a doddle.

Messed up with my other half's latest though - £2000 Mazda 3, which is mechanically brilliant - less than 40k on the clock, FSH etc and drives like new.

Only problem is it's been smoked in for its whole life and damn, you cannot get the smell out. I think on test drive the seller must have deployed an airfreshner "bomb" (which I've since tried to no long-term effect) to mask the smell so I didn't clock it.

It's at the point where we're thinking of moving it on sadly, which is a shame as there is literally nothing else wrong with it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 14, 2019, 01:27:07 pm
This might produce a YYFY soon but I've been undergoing an unbelievably prolonged, opaque, and frustrating recruitment process for literally months - its totally fucking with our lives and I'm sick of it. Just had to get that out.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 14, 2019, 03:14:10 pm
This might produce a YYFY soon but I've been undergoing an unbelievably prolonged, opaque, and frustrating recruitment process for literally months - its totally fucking with our lives and I'm sick of it. Just had to get that out.

CIA? SIS?


I’m kidding.
But a few years ago, I went through both NCA and Security Service recruitment (before my life went tits up), looking for something more interesting in life. Now, there’s some arcane and baffling shite...

Edit:

Good luck though!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 14, 2019, 04:40:00 pm
No, just a boring old university. Thanks for the good wishes.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 14, 2019, 05:58:01 pm
No, just a boring old university. Thanks for the good wishes.

Well, you would say that, wouldn’t you...
Nudge, nudge, 😉😉

🤣
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 14, 2019, 07:18:48 pm
No, just a boring old university. Thanks for the good wishes.

I’ve yet to experience a University with a competent HR department... we discovered the other day that our HR and marketing departments comprised 12% of all staff 😱
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 14, 2019, 07:23:36 pm


I’ve yet to experience a University an organization with a competent HR department...


You're welcome.

Did you get the merchandise to Simon btw?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 14, 2019, 08:54:52 pm


I’ve yet to experience a University an organization with a competent HR department...


You're welcome.

Did you get the merchandise to Simon btw?

Nope - he went to Malham..... i’ll See him in the next week or two.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 14, 2019, 09:21:17 pm
ta
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 09, 2019, 01:49:10 pm
Big faculty meeting at work...

50 academic jobs to go (voluntarily at first) out of 165...

Happy monday,
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 09, 2019, 02:01:24 pm
Shit Tom, that is not good! Is that across a particular School/Faculty (or whatever they're called at Hull)? I think a number of places are going to be facing trouble sooner or later. A very accomplished friend of mine at Bangor is facing redundancy.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 09, 2019, 02:11:56 pm
Shit Tom, that is not good! Is that across a particular School/Faculty? I think a number of places are going to be facing trouble sooner or later. A very accomplished friend of mine at Bangor is facing redundancy.

Thats in our faculty (that has a handful of departments) - but is in similar proportion across the University... We're better off in our dept than others as we're already understaffed lean so may only be one or two. Some depts may be losing more than half... 

Understandably things are somewhat strange at work today!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 09, 2019, 02:18:45 pm
Shit Tom, that is not good! Is that across a particular School/Faculty? I think a number of places are going to be facing trouble sooner or later. A very accomplished friend of mine at Bangor is facing redundancy.

Thats in our faculty (that has a handful of departments) - but is in similar proportion across the University

So its happening across the whole University? Is this a student recruitment issue? Downsizing seems like a vicious circle - what student is going to pick a university that appears to be in trouble?

Liverpool launched a major voluntary redundancy scheme last year, nominally to deal with "underperformance."
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 09, 2019, 02:22:55 pm
Yes. Yes and Yes.

We had a "size and shape" review a few years back that identified subjects that were doing and were due to do badly. They carried out the shape part of the review (mass-restructuring) but did not do any of the size part (staff cuts). Which is partly why we're at this place IMHO.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 09, 2019, 02:34:27 pm
I can imagine things are very strange at work today. Crappy.

Without meaning to gloat, I'm glad to be out of the UK system (of course, I may find I've just leapt from the frying pan into the fire).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 09, 2019, 02:46:31 pm
As a matter of interest, how much is this related to the “B” word?

I’m off to a student induction day on Wednesday for a certain Swiss owned High school, who have their lowest intake, since establishing their campus. Not just a low EU student intake, all nationalities are significantly down.
 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 09, 2019, 03:16:42 pm
As a matter of interest, how much is this related to the “B” word?

Its mentioned - but not a huge factor. Its one of the 'headwinds' - we don't have a huge EU student recriutment base ~ so the drop off in EU students is a small total compared to domestic.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Pope B on September 09, 2019, 05:26:23 pm
Presumably the Chancellor is due for a pay rise?
 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 09, 2019, 05:28:45 pm
Presumably the Vice Chancellor is due for a pay rise?

The one with the power...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Pope B on September 09, 2019, 06:13:00 pm
Presumably the Vice Chancellor is due for a pay rise?

The one with the power...

Right you are, my mistake  :oops:

I think the spirit of my tongue in cheek joke remains 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 10, 2019, 08:50:59 am
For sure..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigironhorse on December 12, 2019, 05:32:58 pm
Just had my wallet stolen out of my jacket pocket at the local wall here in Vienna.  I guess I'm partly to blame as I didn't use a locker. Maybe I've been lucky not locking away valuables when at the wall for the last 15 years  :(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 12, 2019, 05:38:24 pm
Pull my glute on the 45 deg bouldering wall, exactly 2 hours after signing up for an ultra. Still sore nearly 24 hours later.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 12, 2019, 05:40:18 pm
Just had my wallet stolen out of my jacket pocket at the local wall here in Vienna.  I guess I'm partly to blame as I didn't use a locker. Maybe I've been lucky not locking away valuables when at the wall for the last 15 years  :(

Cctv.

Bet they have it all over and will be eager to find out who the Tea leaf is too. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: teestub on December 12, 2019, 05:48:52 pm
Just had my wallet stolen out of my jacket pocket at the local wall here in Vienna.  I guess I'm partly to blame as I didn't use a locker. Maybe I've been lucky not locking away valuables when at the wall for the last 15 years  :(

Fucking cunts, never heard of anything being stolen at a wall I’ve been to, Turnip is well known for leaving his belongings all over the place to no ill effect. Is there easy public access or would it certainly have been someone who had paid to enter?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 12, 2019, 06:03:48 pm
I often have a collection of wallets, phones and expensive jackets; at the end of the day.
People leave them all over.
We’ve yet to have a theft, although a pair of expensive scarpas, that were left behind, never appeared.

I’m amazed at what gets left behind. One wallet was with us for a week, even though I called the owner 10 minutes after he left.

Had a newish Rab Goretex left once, never claimed or asked after.

Chalk bags, we keep for 12 months, then wash them and ebay, money goes to THHN. Currently 27 in the bucket.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 12, 2019, 07:35:48 pm
Just had my wallet stolen out of my jacket pocket at the local wall here in Vienna.  I guess I'm partly to blame as I didn't use a locker. Maybe I've been lucky not locking away valuables when at the wall for the last 15 years  :(

Fuckers. At Boulderbar?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 12, 2019, 08:46:52 pm
I'm sure somebody had a car stolen from one of the Leeds walls fairly recently? Key taken out of bag I think.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bradders on December 12, 2019, 09:28:34 pm
I had my phone and all the cash from my wallet stolen from a locker at the Leeds Depot. Few years ago now. In fairness, I hadn't locked the locker, but still...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: teestub on December 12, 2019, 09:42:40 pm
I had my phone and all the cash from my wallet stolen from a locker at the Leeds Depot. Few years ago now. In fairness, I hadn't locked the locker, but still...

Fucking hell! One of the changing room ones?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 12, 2019, 09:47:52 pm
A gold chain necklace was dropped on the floor at the Manc Depot just outside the changing rooms a couple of years back. Surprisingly, it wasn’t handed in and wasn’t still there an hour later...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: bigironhorse on December 12, 2019, 10:00:26 pm
Just had my wallet stolen out of my jacket pocket at the local wall here in Vienna.  I guess I'm partly to blame as I didn't use a locker. Maybe I've been lucky not locking away valuables when at the wall for the last 15 years  :(

Fucking cunts, never heard of anything being stolen at a wall I’ve been to, Turnip is well known for leaving his belongings all over the place to no ill effect. Is there easy public access or would it certainly have been someone who had paid to enter?

I'm pretty certain it would have to be someone who paid to get in.

Fuckers. At Boulderbar?

Blockfabrik
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 13, 2019, 08:45:44 am
A gold chain necklace was dropped on the floor at the Manc Depot just outside the changing rooms a couple of years back. Surprisingly, it wasn’t handed in and wasn’t still there an hour later...

Everyone thought it belonged to BA Baraccus and left it there, pity the fool who takes it.

I had an ATC taken off my harness I left lying by the bouldering area.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: fatneck on December 13, 2019, 09:07:34 am
My missus left a £70 pair of climbing pants, a Moon hoody and a T-shirt at the Manc Depot a couple of weeks ago and they never got handed in...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 13, 2019, 09:29:50 am
I've left pair of £7 slazenger 3/4 lengths and my napalm death vest lying around all the time at the depot and they've never moved an inch  :???:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wil on December 13, 2019, 09:56:54 am
I'm amazed I've not had anything nicked at the wall over the years, I've been very trusting. I've only rarely used a locker.

I did however have 2 pairs of approach shoes stolen from a campsite this year. It's put them under the car to keep them out of the light rain, they were a bit too stinky to put inside. We drove off without them, but returned when we realised after an hour. No sign of them. Mine were old and stinky, but my partner's were pretty new. There was hardly anyone there as well, being early afternoon on BH Monday. I get the appeal with my partner's, but mine were knackered!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: galpinos on December 13, 2019, 10:01:09 am
I've never used a locker at the Manc Depot and never had anything go. I've never used a locker at any wall until a recent trip to Ravenswall in London and it seemed like an odd thing to do but there wasn't the normal area for leaving bags and stuff about (and I don't trust Londoners).

I did have a pair of pinks taken from AW Stockport once but that was a genuine error and they were returned the next week. I did start writing my name on shoes for a bit but gave up after a while.

I do have a healthy collection of brushes made up of abandoned ones from the Depot (and ones I've stolen of JR) though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Blue Boy on December 13, 2019, 10:12:41 am
My missus left a £70 pair of climbing pants, a Moon hoody and a T-shirt at the Manc Depot a couple of weeks ago and they never got handed in...

The cleaners at the Nottingham depot tend to just tidy things away into the cubbie holes rather than hand stuff back to lost property. I once found a pair of my climbing shoes in one of them a week after I thought I lost them. If the cleaners at the Manc depot have the same behaviour, might be worth checking the cubbies for anything lost.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 13, 2019, 10:49:02 am
I've left pair of £7 slazenger 3/4 lengths and my napalm death vest lying around all the time at the depot and they've never moved an inch  :???:
I wiped them around the urinals and then replaced them in exactly the same position!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 13, 2019, 11:10:06 am
The smell was slightly improved.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dunnyg on December 13, 2019, 11:10:26 am
Nice of you to clean Fiend's stuff for him
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 13, 2019, 11:23:43 am
That might give Offwidth's mystical wicking / cooling effect and I could keep the vest on after all!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bradders on December 13, 2019, 02:06:40 pm
I had my phone and all the cash from my wallet stolen from a locker at the Leeds Depot. Few years ago now. In fairness, I hadn't locked the locker, but still...

Fucking hell! One of the changing room ones?

Yep. Incredibly, they emptied all the cash and change out of my wallet, and left it! Why not just take the lot?

Depot were pretty hopeless about it at the time. Think they have more CCTV now maybe.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 19, 2020, 10:18:41 pm
Last Monday saw my wife hospitalised with Guillain Barre disease - a bloody scary neurological auto-immune disease. She's not really been well since we moved two months ago and now we know why. They let her come home for the night this afternoon and then there are more tests tomorrow and decision whether she'll be readmitted. It's very treatable however, but we're looking at months of recovery, at least.

So far, super impressed with Danish healthcare, which is a revelation to my American family (we'd be looking at a bill for tens of thousands already in the US).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 19, 2020, 10:30:49 pm
Good luck and best wishes to her and you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on January 20, 2020, 02:46:05 am
Bugger, hope she starts feeling better soon
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 20, 2020, 06:26:50 am
I also crocked one of my ankles last weekend; very frustrating as I'd been to a wall for the first time in years a few days before and really enjoyed myself. I wouldn't have been able to go last week as I was basically living at the hospital, but really want to be able to go again soon.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on January 20, 2020, 06:56:29 am
Good luck Andy, I hope the recovery goes well for your wife and for your ankle.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 20, 2020, 07:34:28 am
Shit / sorry to hear that Andy... silver lining could be the Danish healthcare system to get things all straightened out...

Wishing you all well. T
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on January 20, 2020, 07:44:08 am
Sorry to hear that, Andy. It sounds like she's in good hands. Hope you're all back to normal soon.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 20, 2020, 08:03:51 am
Very sorry to hear this Andy.
Polly’s (MrsOMM) mother was hit with this in her 8th month of pregnancy with Polly and Polly was delivered by emergency C section.
That was 37 years ago and despite being in full paralysis and on a ventilator etc, she made a full recovery and has never experienced any sequelae that she’s aware of.

She’s a bloody awful witch and we both detest her, even her grandkids kicked off at being made to sign her xmas card, but I’m confident that’s unrelated.

Best of luck to you both.

Edit:
That’s mother-in-law that’s the witch, not Polly.*

*most days, other days are available.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 12, 2020, 11:38:29 am
A vexing session at the Station last night. A section of the wall was partially closed because a section of the roof had blown off in the wind last week and water had got in. As a result the roof section of the wall was closed off (not that this stopped them letting the kids groups warm up in there for some reason... :shrug:) .

The v4 circuit was down for resetting. This is the only circuit at that grade and therefore left a massive gap between the V3's and the V6's. As a result I attempted to get warm on the hideous, slopey, badly set easier circuits all the while fighting my urge to let go the chalk and grime encrusted holds and sack it off.

Temperature levels were, as usual, sub zero. Staff in down jackets and woolly hats (is this even legal? Don't employers have to heat their premises to a half reasonable temperature?) I then moved on to the v6 set and attempted a few of these on yet more horrible holds. A ping was felt in my hand, which happens to me occasionally when I am really cold. I let go and all feels fine so crack on. Complete the session but not quite the full ticket in left arm and hand. Glad to leave.

By contrast to the wall in central Leicester, this one really is appalling, especially in contrast to the modern Depot centres. It is cold all the time, filthy, and the circuits don't get changed for months at a time (the easier V0 one has been up since August the 14th last year). On top of that, the setting is ridiculously cruxy on the same holds that I remember being there 6 years ago and oscillates from piss to desperate within one V grade. These holds are also uniformly non-positive and slick making dry-firing a frequent occurrence. I could go on but suffice to say that sat with a sore finger this morning I am fairly confident I won't be going back for a while. Rant over...

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 12, 2020, 04:29:46 pm
Good rant. Post it on their FB ofc...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 20, 2020, 05:55:25 pm
I don't know where to go with this...  :tumble:

We're (/were) buying a house. We're effectively a cash buyer. We have everything in place and searches etc. ongoing but the vendor has decided to go with someone else (a month after the offer was accepted) who the agent hasn't yet done due diligence on, and hasn't yet started the searches, when they're buying an empty property, with no chain at their end. It isn't even like we've been outbid.

I'm completely baffled and equally p*ssed off. Nat is in absolute pieces. It's such a rare property type (viable for Leeds and Preston, near climbing, outside space and buildings [think mega-board]) that it all feels like back to the drawing board.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: galpinos on February 20, 2020, 06:00:05 pm
I don't know where to go with this...  :tumble:

We're (/were) buying a house. We're effectively a cash buyer. We have everything in place and searches etc. ongoing but the vendor has decided to go with someone else (a month after the offer was accepted) who the agent hasn't yet done due diligence on, and hasn't yet started the searches, when they're buying an empty property, with no chain at their end. It isn't even like we've been outbid.

I'm completely baffled and equally p*ssed off. Nat is in absolute pieces. It's such a rare property type (viable for Leeds and Preston, near climbing, outside space and buildings [think mega-board]) that it all feels like back to the drawing board.

No help but we lost a property we had our heart set on 2 yrs ago. Offer accepted, survey done, ours sold, chasing their solicitor about completion date and........ they decided not to sell. We were gutted, we had mentally already moved and had convinced the kids it was a good idea (my eldest took a lot of convincing).

We have now bought a different house, moved and are very happy. In reality, it is a better property for us. Not really sure what I'm trying to say expect it's shit, sorry, and hopefully something better will come up.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 20, 2020, 06:22:19 pm
Gutted for you Paul.

Worth coming back at them with another few £K? If they’re fickle enough to do that to you....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 20, 2020, 06:23:36 pm
Paul, sorry to read that. I was wondering: in Italy you'd win the trial hands down, it seems a a typical case of pre-contractual responsibility.
Are you sure there's no remedy? Legal, I mean.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chris j on February 20, 2020, 08:45:33 pm
I don't know where to go with this...  :tumble:

We're (/were) buying a house. We're effectively a cash buyer. We have everything in place and searches etc. ongoing but the vendor has decided to go with someone else

Been in much the same situation,  offer accepted, full survey & searches etc done, finances etc all in place,  and the vendor had a row with her boyfriend and decided not to sell.

A couple of months later she came back and asked if we'd like to go ahead but we had settled on a different property by then. Buying property in the UK can be shit,  it's just taken a friend 6 months from offer to completion just because the next solicitor in the chain couldn't be bothered to do their job in a reasonable time. Hope it all works out for you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 20, 2020, 08:58:09 pm
Thanks for the positive words.

What compounds the issue is that I have a job 'discussion' in a little over a week. It's for a team I know and like, doing the work I really know and like, and this time they approached me. I can't see work feeling like work.

The house was viable for the locations they needed me to be (Leeds and Manchester) whilst also being similar to where I am now (Preston). Where I am now stretches travel to those places considerably and isn't viable long term. It moves the need to move from being a desire to a necessity.

We're not relying on the sale of ours (this is the difference in value from Sheffield to Lancashire) for this which with the stamp duty (which you can recoup within 3 years) and deposit means we've got very little upward wiggle room (I guess less than 1.5%).

What I'm still baffled by is that the new offer isn't higher and isn't vetted. They haven't done the searches or survey etc. (as we have) and the vendor has no chain on the purchase they wish to make. The other party can't move quicker and aren't offering more cash so why the sudden wish to change? The agent has advised against it.

I'm tempted to behave spitefully if I'm honest. It's also Nat's birthday tomorrow so... she's taken it extra well  :chair:

Shit happens I guess  :worms:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 21, 2020, 09:12:52 am

Been in much the same situation,  offer accepted, full survey & searches etc done, finances etc all in place,  and the vendor had a row with her boyfriend and decided not to sell.


Same happened to my brother too.

Sounds to me like someone has an inside lane; either a friend or a relative has been given priority. If this is the case, then it is definitely an instance of shit happens; you just can't win against stuff like that. English propertly sale law always seems so weak, compared to Scotland where this would never happen. Would make for a pain in the arse commute from up here though :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 21, 2020, 09:31:49 am
That sounds shit Paul; sorry to hear that.

When I was about 12 my parents were finalising a move to their 'dream house.' We had an offer agreed with the potential buyers of the house we were in. He was a real suburbanite who was well out of his comfort zone moving to the country and wanted all the i's dotted and t's crossed before he moved in. As such he wanted the driveway resurfaced before the day of exchange. My parents agreed on the clear understanding that if he pulled out prior to exchange there wouldn't be a refund as we didn't give a toss about the drive (it was perfectly serviceable!).  Exchange day rolled around and an hour before the designated time he pulled out. A protracted row ensued when he demanded his money back for the drive and was told where to go in no uncertain terms. I think lawyers even got involved for a while before he came to his senses. People are not rational when it comes to buying houses it seems!

Anyway, my mum was devastated at seemingly missing the house. It took a further six months to find another buyer and we did get there in the end. I know this is a different situation but hopefully stands as another example of how things often work out in the end...there'll be another one!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 21, 2020, 01:58:47 pm
Ta for yet more kind words/wisdom.

Our nominal bump has been rejected. Vendor won't give a figure. Alternate buyer has not yet produced proof of funds. Something feels not quite right, like we're either being played (into a bidding war against ourselves) or, there are other factors at play.

I'm currently sat on the fence whether to use the last of my wiggle room (agent is suggesting we make a BAFO) or just to say f*ck it, that's our offer, good luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 21, 2020, 02:01:50 pm
If you're happy to pay whatever that BAFO is then do it - you've nothing to lose. After that you just walk away.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 21, 2020, 02:57:34 pm
Ta for yet more kind words/wisdom.

Our nominal bump has been rejected. Vendor won't give a figure. Alternate buyer has not yet produced proof of funds. Something feels not quite right, like we're either being played (into a bidding war against ourselves) or, there are other factors at play.

I'm currently sat on the fence whether to use the last of my wiggle room (agent is suggesting we make a BAFO) or just to say f*ck it, that's our offer, good luck.

If your BAFO is accepted, will you always have the feeling like you've been played vs it being rejected and you then feeling like you've done everything and given it our best shot? It's an emotional situation now rather than a financial one.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: teestub on February 21, 2020, 03:05:32 pm
How much do you want this particular house, does it have rare features for the area (garage for a board, off street parking, etc.)? If it’s not a massive bump to your best offer and you really want this place, then that extra few percentage is going to make f all difference in a decade.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 21, 2020, 03:54:05 pm
Opposite way around - but I was fucked about by buyers in 2008 when houses couldn’t be shifted. A week before completion they care up with some crap about the electrics being rubbish and demanded £2.5k off (the house was 25 years old so it was bollocks). My gut reaction (emotional) was to tell them where to go.. but being logical - I needed to sell so sucked it up and justified it as just being business.

They were fucking c*nts - but I just had to deal with that and move on. It’s hackneyed but a house is ultimately just bricks and mortar.

If I were in your position and really wanted the house - I’d up the offer but maybe also demand a very rapid completion date? Give them less time to piss about. If they say no then you’ve done what you can.

Maybe ask your solicitor if there is some sort of bond or financial mechanism that can be used to ensure they pay some penalty if they welch on the deal?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kac on February 21, 2020, 04:15:15 pm
I'd agree that in the long run paying a bit more now probably won't matter in the long run. But i'd to know what was going on first. If the property was taken off the market with your bid accepted and you having spent money on searches then the vendors are either dicks for then accepting another offer or as Chris has suggested they know the other people. I'd be wanting to speak to them to try to see what was going on. It can take a long time for a sale to go through and building a relationship with the vendors and being able to trust them helps as its bloody stressful anyway.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 21, 2020, 04:17:54 pm
This is true. Every (both) houses we have bought, we've developed a relationship with the sellers and that has definitely helped keep things onside, even when house buying in NE Scotland was such a mad business in the late 00s
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mark s on February 22, 2020, 07:28:49 am
Ta for yet more kind words/wisdom.

Our nominal bump has been rejected. Vendor won't give a figure. Alternate buyer has not yet produced proof of funds. Something feels not quite right, like we're either being played (into a bidding war against ourselves) or, there are other factors at play.

I'm currently sat on the fence whether to use the last of my wiggle room (agent is suggesting we make a BAFO) or just to say f*ck it, that's our offer, good luck.

I know different people have different ways of dealing with these types. Sounds dodgy to me, i would look for another place after telling them what a bunch of twats they are.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on March 02, 2020, 11:22:10 am
Sorry for the slow reply, I've got something large coming up at work and booked a holiday for last week to make sure I didn't implode; thinking about the house would've been counterproductive!

We've got to the bottom of the nonsense. We're using the same agent, albeit a different branch. The vendor's story is that she's been pushing our branch to get in touch and say really it needs to go back on if you don't have a sale agreed 'soon' etc. as we hadn't revealed our backup plan. There was a viewing that happened 2 days after our original offer which seemingly was cancelled by the agent but the bloke turned up anyway and left his number. Given the agent/us were not responding, the vendor got in touch and he made a cash offer.

The agent obviously denies everything not that it matters as we are where we are. We made it pretty clear that we needed to have certainty and that our offer (after a marginal bump for their perceived troubles) was as high as we'd go and would expire. The vendor (after lengthy conversations with the agent) decided that we were the best offer with respect to her purchase etc. and it's "ours" whatever that means (sweet FA).

It all seems a bit fishy as we agreed the offer over a cup of tea, exchanged phone numbers (we had an ongoing Whatsapp conversation), so it'd have been very easy to get in touch with us if the agent was under-performing.

Anyhow, onward...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 02, 2020, 11:46:44 am
Hang on, Paul, have you thought this through? It's still not too late to take Mark's advice and call them all twats and fuck off into the sunset.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 02, 2020, 01:34:22 pm
Just received unexpected invite to exclusive, invite only conference in Lake Tahoe. Almost certainly can't go.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Ru on March 02, 2020, 09:38:55 pm
Just received unexpected invite to exclusive, invite only conference in Lake Tahoe. Almost certainly can't go.

On the other hand, depending when it is, maybe no-one will be able to go.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 03, 2020, 04:34:18 am
Very true! Currently feeling much less regretful about declining an invitation to Japan.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 03, 2020, 07:15:35 am
Very true! Currently feeling much less regretful about declining an invitation to Japan.


Nah, go for it, you can always call in sick...


I’ll get my coat.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dunnyg on March 18, 2020, 02:05:18 pm
Small fry given the state of the world, but....

Split a tin of peaches for pudding last night with the other half.
Later found out she had POURED AWAY THE SYRUP BECAUSE SHE DIDNT THINK I'D WANT IT!

Im in lockdown with this monster. Send help. And more tinned peaches.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: crzylgs on March 18, 2020, 02:10:49 pm
Obligatory:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvAnQqVJ3XQ

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 18, 2020, 02:43:42 pm
lol, i thought exactly the same thing.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 18, 2020, 03:00:21 pm
Small fry given the state of the world, but....

Split a tin of peaches for pudding last night with the other half.
Later found out she had POURED AWAY THE SYRUP BECAUSE SHE DIDNT THINK I'D WANT IT!

Im in lockdown with this monster. Send help. And more tinned peaches.

Despite what you may infer from his eating of tinned peaches, dunnyg is not in his 90s.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on March 18, 2020, 11:23:19 pm
TBF the syrup is the only thing I would want out of a tin of peaches.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 19, 2020, 08:40:22 am
Panic Bought a ting of peaches (only tinned fruit left) yesterday to see what the syrup hype is all about
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dunnyg on March 19, 2020, 09:57:50 am
Imagine drinking it after setting up your ledge half way up el cap. Best. Thing. Ever.
Ever time I drink it. Plus it tastes like liquid sunshine.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 19, 2020, 10:56:13 am
A bit of a selfish NNFN given I’m still in work (for now) with decent pay...

But the regulation (IR35) which caused me lots of stress in the last 2-3 months where I was forced to change how I was employed, taking a huge pay cut in the process, has just been delayed by a year after being torn apart by the Lords & given the current Coronavirus problems.

So everything was needlessly changed and now I’m stuck on a new contract with much less pay and much few employment rights... I doubt my client will revoke their new policies & issue a new contract.

All in all a bit of a pain!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 19, 2020, 11:43:54 am
It's a clusterfuck for sure
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 19, 2020, 12:12:59 pm
A bit of a selfish NNFN given I’m still in work (for now) with decent pay...

But the regulation (IR35) which caused me lots of stress in the last 2-3 months where I was forced to change how I was employed, taking a huge pay cut in the process, has just been delayed by a year after being torn apart by the Lords & given the current Coronavirus problems.

So everything was needlessly changed and now I’m stuck on a new contract with much less pay and much few employment rights... I doubt my client will revoke their new policies & issue a new contract (despite no cost impacts to them other than paperwork to change contract).

All in all a bit of a pain!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Blue Boy on May 18, 2020, 08:50:20 am
Yesterday was my second day back on the rock. 15 minutes into the session my wrist made an audible pop while pulling on a sloper. After a gentle test pulling down on a sloper, it was agony. Fuck.

My wrist is now painful to varying degrees in all but a neutral position, particularly pressing and pulling. I can't even hold a saucepan.

This injury completely blind sided me because I've never had any wrist problems before. After some research, I'm now terrified that it could be a 'TFCC' tear which sounds like a nightmare to manage, however my symptoms don't seem to line up completely. Others have advised me that it could be just a sprain of some kind.

I'm just trying to keep it immobile for now, I have bought a splint which should arrive tomorrow.

Not sure about going to Minor Injuries either given the current circumstances.

Anyone had experience with a similar injury?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on May 18, 2020, 09:49:21 am
Yes, see my thread. If it helps I was told that TFCC will unlikely have an associated pop but I'm not a physio.

The thing (some time later) which gave my physio confidence in this was my ability to do a press up.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on May 18, 2020, 12:36:08 pm
Are PMs working again? Maybe ask Carwyn (Sheavi on here), he's a physio and did something similar to himself on a Font trip, so he'll have researched it at least.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 18, 2020, 01:21:51 pm
I would get a zoom consultation with Jon O,
https://www.919clinic.co.uk/
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 18, 2020, 01:26:11 pm
Hey, you should get a general idea of what it is, by accurately checking where the painful spot is.
Tfcc location is quite precise.
Good luck!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on May 18, 2020, 01:59:56 pm
Also bear in mind even if you have a load of the TFCC symptoms, it may not be TFCC. Myself and a couple of physios were convinced I'd damaged it given pain location and various tests but MRI confirmed otherwise.

Best of luck!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: galpinos on May 18, 2020, 03:48:15 pm
Only a minor NNFN but.......

The shine of a fab family day* at Windgather was somewhat taken off by me standing in a human shit quite early in in the day. Pretty unpleasant at the best of times but in the current climate a potentially viral ridden shit smeared all over my fly trainers was not ideal.

Not definitely climbers but still pretty disappointing. Go before you go, pack it out or dig a hole. It’s not that hard.

*Wandering along the bottom of the crag with my 7yo just pointing at lines saying, “Can I try that one dad” was awesome though!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Blue Boy on May 18, 2020, 08:05:59 pm
Thanks for the advice everyone! I'll have some consultation when the coffers allow I think.

Reading around, it seems like immobilisation for a few weeks is the treatment for all the wrist injuries I've read about so far, so I'll be doing that.

Poking around for tenderness and comparing that to anatomical diagrams points me towards the scapholunate ligament as the source for pain. Which is more or less in the middle of the wrist. Of course I'll wait to get a proper diagnosis before taking any action though.

On another note, this couldn't have come at a worse time, I moved to Sheffield in mid march with lots of climbing in mind. As you can imagine, I've not done much.  Just three outings :'( . I suppose I'll have to be someone's (socially distant) belay bitch in the mean time to keep me sane, any takers?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 18, 2020, 08:33:16 pm
John is on Abbeydale Rd and has an ultrasound machine (and the skill to use it) which gave an amazing view into my spannered hand in January. I'd recommend it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 08, 2020, 09:28:15 pm
So, it’s been revealed this afternoon/evening that a man died in custody, in the cells of Torquay police station (actually a little while ago, several days).
He was coloured/black, apparently.
There is no information about how he died, but already there is a FB group set up to organise a protest and another to organise a riot.

Our business is the building immediately across the road from the police station.

That someone has died is awful. The anxiety that is now hanging over us, the residents of the surrounding houses and businesses is also awful. We’re not expecting trouble tonight and the protest is arranged for Sunday, but...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Ru on June 08, 2020, 10:13:36 pm
Poking around for tenderness and comparing that to anatomical diagrams points me towards the scapholunate ligament as the source for pain. Which is more or less in the middle of the wrist. Of course I'll wait to get a proper diagnosis before taking any action though.

Only just seen this. Get a diagnosis pretty quickly and consider paying for a scan if advised. A completely ruptured S-L ligament has a relatively short window in which it can be reattached. After that it can only be reconstructed which is quite an invasive operation with poorer outcomes. It's not a ligament you can do without as a lack of one usually leads to problems. Don't want to scare you and it's probably not that if you did it pulling on a sloper (usually caused by falls onto outstretched hands), but it's something you want to get investigated just in case.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ben_pritchard on June 09, 2020, 07:22:51 am


That someone has died is awful. The anxiety that is now hanging over us, the residents of the surrounding houses and businesses is also awful. We’re not expecting trouble tonight and the protest is arranged for Sunday, but...

Hi there, I'm sure you're not equating the loss of property with the death of a human being but the emphasis in your statement is identical.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 09, 2020, 07:35:23 am


That someone has died is awful. The anxiety that is now hanging over us, the residents of the surrounding houses and businesses is also awful. We’re not expecting trouble tonight and the protest is arranged for Sunday, but...

Hi there, I'm sure you're not equating the loss of property with the death of a human being but the emphasis in your statement is identical.

Dude, you are way off the mark.


Seriously, fucking so far off. Knob.

Absolute toss.

You have no fucking idea what you are talking about.

We’re not some fucking mega corporation, you prat. We’re already on the brink of losing everything. You think the people who want to start a riot are supporters of civil rights and equality? You think they actually give a toss about the man who died?

Of course I’m (and by that I mean me, my partner, my children) don’t equate a loss of life with damage to property, that doesn’t mean that such damage wouldn’t be a personal tragedy for us. Do you not grasp, that despite my jovial attitude on here, I/we might be going through an existential  crisis already? Struggling to find a reason to continue? Dealing with the fallout of having face an uncertain future and having the rug yanked out from under our feet?
Oh yeah, I try to be positive when I talk about it on here and I’ve been working hard to find an alternative, but the world isn’t exactly running smoothly at the moment. Our current “self sufficient” life is hanging by a thread and almost every direction we turn, we hit a dead end.

Now, we have to contend with possibly being victims of people intent on causing havoc, for fun. The protests? Not a problem. Shit, I’ve been on many marches. If (and it actually looks very unlikely, given the stuff his SS caseworkers etc have already made public) he was “killed” or “allowed to die” by negligence or malice, then those responsible should be held as such.

If you think we should just “suck it up” because there was another injustice or somehow think that injustice gives people the right to inflict injustice on on other innocent people, screw you.

So, if you thought I would be ashamed to be anxious about what might come out of this, because of your self righteousness and patronising crap, you are fucking mistaken. Nothing could have harden my position more.

To be clear, for the idiots at the back, I don’t equate my anxiety to the tragedy of Mr Francis death.
If you think we have no right to feel anxious or feel like we are facing our own, if lesser, tragedy as a result; then you are not human.



Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: ben_pritchard on June 09, 2020, 07:38:05 am
apologies to OMM. I jumped in with both feet. Sorry
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bradders on June 09, 2020, 08:03:58 am


That someone has died is awful. The anxiety that is now hanging over us, the residents of the surrounding houses and businesses is also awful. We’re not expecting trouble tonight and the protest is arranged for Sunday, but...

Hi there, I'm sure you're not equating the loss of property with the death of a human being but the emphasis in your statement is identical.

Property that only might be lost as well.

I read your post in exactly the same way as Ben did OMM. The emphasis is identical and thus equates someone's death with the anxiety you're now feeling. That doesn't mean I immediately think you're racist, or that you actually think the two are equivalent, but it's right to call you out on it as that kind of thought process and narrative absolutely prioritises the wrong thing.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on June 09, 2020, 08:23:02 am
FWIW I disagree.

I absolutely understand your anxiety Matt. I hope that, if there are any protests, they are peaceful.

Weirdly when I say “I’m starving” I am not equating my level of hunger with the millions of people around the world who are you know, actually starving.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on June 09, 2020, 08:24:13 am
Although I think calling Ben a knob was a bit mean 😁
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 09, 2020, 09:01:26 am
prat seemed fair though :) :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bradders on June 09, 2020, 10:44:58 am
I absolutely understand your anxiety Matt. I hope that, if there are any protests, they are peaceful.

Oh absolutely, but I also hope that they result in meaningful change without the need for further violence.

Matt I totally get that you're scared of rioting and damage, but try to remember that the vast majority of the protests recently have been entirely peaceful, and often when things have flared it's been due to the actions of a tiny minority, people actively trying to discredit the protests by sparking confrontation, or the police themselves aggressively breaking things up. Just because a handful of cunts people are posting on Facebook about a riot doesn't mean it will happen.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on June 09, 2020, 01:49:22 pm
I think way more important than any discussion about rioting and protests is the fact that Matt is having a pretty rough time of it right now and could do with our support, even if it is just words and encouragement. Hang in there Matt, and if there is anything I can do then please pm me.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on June 09, 2020, 02:02:55 pm
Exactly
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 09, 2020, 04:48:57 pm
I’ve spent the day crawling around the roof space of the Bunker, trying to fit a rather large new ventilation system. This is not a fun activity in a 200 year old building. Lots of big hammers, smashing down walls and power tools. Very therapeutic.

I am definitely struggling, but will find a way through.
Yesterday was hard.

I got an email from the Navy, after six weeks of silence, saying the role will be going ahead, but nobody knows when. Thats more than six months now of on again off again.

I got an email from the RFA, requesting more info and all of my original certificates etc, except, I sent all of my certificates to the MCA two days before lockdown, to renew my CoC (license, if you will) and now they’re stuck in some abandoned office waiting for the MCA to recommence operations. They sent me a temporary, PDF, CoC, so I can work legally, but the RFA don’t seem able to grasp this.

Then, in the afternoon:

I got a phone call, from Jan Van den Berg, my boss from 20 odd years ago who recommended me for the General manager/MD role at the shipyard in Dubai. He tells me he wants me out there as his technical Manager and I should expect a call, imminently, from the Chairman of the group.
I’m still waiting. 

It’s not the first time Jan has promised me a role. It’s the third time in two years. Last time I was almost booking tickets.

Then I get home to a seriously upset Polly, who’s been getting worried messages from all directions, that we’re about to have the protests arrive on our doorstep.

It is looking much less likely to get out of control or even become much of a thing, this afternoon.

These things are just the stuff that have arrived in the last few weeks. They don’t sound bad in isolation, but it’s been almost two years since we realised we couldn’t continue as we were and it’s taken that long to even generate such tenuous employment offers and I have had to spend almost 5k to renew my licenses (even then I’m going to have to find work before I can think about Professional Institute fees and trying to get all those corporate memberships back, so I can tack the letters on to my name again. Ironically, no letters, means a harder job hunt in the first place).
You cannot just get back on the horse after a seven year career break.

It’s all very first world problem, all a bit middle class angst.

I tried applying for a few lower level positions, even technician roles (I mean, somewhere back in the mists of the last century, I was a time served apprentice, Master Craftsman and Artificer) but got knocked back as “over qualified” repeatedly.

I feel pretty bloody useless, actually.

What I mean is, sorry for snapping, I get how it looked.

And thanks for the support, too.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on June 09, 2020, 05:43:28 pm
Yikes. Anxiety can make the worst outcome seem the most likely one. Hope it calms down.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bradders on June 09, 2020, 05:52:10 pm
Sorry you're struggling Matt, hope things improve. And sorry for the harsh reaction; I'm easily triggered atm but that's no excuse.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 09, 2020, 06:11:25 pm

It’s all very first world problem, all a bit middle class angst.


It's not. They are real problems, each of which would be hard to deal with, but collectively must be overwhelming. If this is one of your few places to vent your concerns, anxieties, or anger, then please fire away if it helps. All we can do is try to understand your burden, and try to offer support where possible. This is a fucked up time for everyone, but hopefully won't be forever. The sun always rises even if you can't always see it for clouds.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on June 09, 2020, 06:26:23 pm
It sounds a fucking nightmare Matt. I thought I was having a bad day as two of my birthday presents have been lost/ nicked by the carriers.
Hang in there.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: gollum on June 10, 2020, 07:00:10 am
Stay strong Matt.

You are having to deal with a whole host of problems all at the same time, any one of which would be serious on itself. It also sounds like you are knuckling down and making sure you change it, rather than rolling over.

Well done!!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Blue Boy on June 10, 2020, 09:24:15 pm
Only just seen this. Get a diagnosis pretty quickly and consider paying for a scan if advised. A completely ruptured S-L ligament has a relatively short window in which it can be reattached. After that it can only be reconstructed which is quite an invasive operation with poorer outcomes. It's not a ligament you can do without as a lack of one usually leads to problems. Don't want to scare you and it's probably not that if you did it pulling on a sloper (usually caused by falls onto outstretched hands), but it's something you want to get investigated just in case.

Thanks for the advice, I'm quite confident that it is only a minor tear or 'stretch' of the ligament if anything. The pain reduced quite rapidly in the days after I made the post. And has slowly decreased in the weeks since then.

I still have pain now but it is substantially reduced, it's mostly just some discomfort in certain positions. I pretty much have full range of mobility, press ups/mantling are a bit uncomfortable, but are still manageable.

If it stops improving I think I'll get it scanned at The Clinic, but doesn't seem necessary at the moment.

I've since done the problem I sprained it on, and done plenty of mileage during the good weather, so spirits are pretty high about it at the moment.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on June 29, 2020, 11:07:51 pm
Obviously extremely minor in the grand scheme of things but the thought of another two weeks (at least) stuck inside in Leicester while everyone else continues life as normal is distinctly shit this evening.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 29, 2020, 11:55:29 pm
That does suck! Are there any suggestions as to the cause of the spike?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 30, 2020, 08:28:16 am
Abandon ship ASAP. Bivvy beneath the cornice and catch fish in the Wye.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duncan campbell on June 30, 2020, 11:55:31 am
Dunno if this holds any water b it lads I’m working with were saying they were in Leicester early in lockdown and have been saying it seemed like business as usual.

Don’t know how much truth there is in that.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 30, 2020, 12:05:14 pm
Here you go, Jim. Should keep you entertained and inspired.
https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m0009jkb/episodes/player

Alternatively, I think jumping the wire on a motorbike works, but only if there's only one fence. Not sure if your van has got the revs for it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on July 16, 2020, 01:46:50 pm
Just as things were starting to fall into place as I was getting back to strength, my wrist has flared up again. Think it may be from the cortisone shot wearing off  :wall:8 months injured out of the 15 I’ve lived here and counting...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 16, 2020, 02:15:03 pm
Just as things were starting to fall into place as I was getting back to strength, my wrist has flared up again. Think it may be from the cortisone shot wearing off  :wall:8 months injured out of the 15 I’ve lived here and counting...
Sorry to read that. From my personal experience, I strongly suggest that you stop the cortisone and look for a long term fix.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 16, 2020, 02:20:08 pm
+1 on that. They are only supposed to be a one off, and repeat treatment is apparently not recommended. I had one injection in my thumb about 5 years ago, and it's still noticeably thinner than the one on the other hand.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on July 16, 2020, 02:41:21 pm
Yeah that's what I've heard. Thing is that I had five months off for this over winter for the MRI to come back and say there was effectively nothing wrong with my wrist, just some inflammation of a minor muscle. The cortisone shot worked a dream (I've had past experience of cortisone doing bugger all)...

I think this pain may be a culmination of all my wrist ailments. Broke it 12 years ago, ulnar head issues 4 years ago, this recent one all on the same wrist
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on July 16, 2020, 04:17:18 pm
That’s very frustrating. Time for a second opinion?

A couple of general observations. Firstly, you’re not a small man and you have a climbing style that’s quite demanding on your joints. Secondly, I could be mistaken, but my impression is you’ve resumed full-blast climbing quite quickly after you’ve recovered from injuries. It’s possible the connective tissues (tendons, ligaments) have not had a chance to rebuild after the lay-off. All this leaves you prone to re-injury. 

Along with whatever medical intervention you have, a combination of long-term protective/preventative exercise programme and some movement coaching might make you a bit more resilient. And easing yourself back into things a little more gradually. An expert coach and/or specialist physio. might help with these.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on July 16, 2020, 06:30:46 pm
That definitely could be it, I’ve felt my return has been slow but perhaps not slow enough. Seeing a specialist tomorrow, will see what he says...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 16, 2020, 09:03:30 pm
Poor Coops, good luck with it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on July 23, 2020, 04:29:30 pm
Specialist fairly useless, touting that this was likely just irritation of the TFCC. I asked him what I could do to prevent recurrent injuries like this in future, he said stop climbing... Should have walked out of there then... He suggested another cortisone shot (different location and also neither were into tendons so apparently multiple would not degrade tissue) and I've booked to see a physio to get advice on long-term solutions. I've found a load of strengthening exercises that I've started and intend to continue with and have also contacted a movement coach for once I'm back on the wall... Also hoping to do some multi pitch trad while I'm getting back into bouldering
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: erm, sam on July 23, 2020, 04:54:26 pm
Go and a proper climbing physio, feels like there are more and more in the US. Worth a drive to find a good one..
Eg maybe:

"Zack DiCristino, MSPT, OCS, SCS (US)
I am a Board certified orthopedic and sports specialist.

I have been climbing for 20 years and practicing Physical therapy for 15 years. I worked at Stanford University Athletics for 8 years with collegiate athletes from 36 different sports. I have been working with recreational and professional climbers for 8 years. I currently am the Lead Physical Therapist for the USA Climbing Team and am based out of Vail, Colorado.

zgdicristino[at]gmail.com"


off: https://climbingphysios.com/boardmembers/
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: teestub on July 23, 2020, 05:22:29 pm
I was going to say the same, if you are in CO you must be spoilt for choice. I guess there may be an issue with being able to use insurance or not?

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on July 23, 2020, 05:32:28 pm
I've found a load of strengthening exercises that I've started and intend to continue with and have also contacted a movement coach for once I'm back on the wall... Also hoping to do some multi pitch trad while I'm getting back into bouldering

Life got in the way of me seeing a physio about my wrist issues but (wholly unsurprisingly) following the advice given (when finally sought) and doing the exercises really helped progression. The initial exercises were as simple as gripping a rolling pin and essentially opposing the force applied by my other arm 6 times for 30 seconds at a time. It was remarkable how tired that made my wrist feel.

Progress still seems slow mind you (+7 months) but I'm now doing less things that make me wince with pain. Best of luck with it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on July 23, 2020, 05:34:54 pm
Cheers, have set up a free virtual consult with a climbing physio for later today, definitely keen to seek as many opinions as possible
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on September 29, 2020, 12:45:02 pm
Mortgages are a pain in the arse...

Paid for the valuation on 1st September and was told it would be done within a week. Today was the 7th time it's moved since then with it now set for the 21st October. Hopefully I can get this brought forward again...

It means we now need to pay for everything else before knowing whether we've got the mortgage sorted. As it's a bank one we can't go for anyone other than their approved surveyor so there's not much we can do other than hope it doesn't get moved again.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Stabbsy on September 29, 2020, 03:07:46 pm
Mortgages are a pain in the arse...

Paid for the valuation on 1st September and was told it would be done within a week. Today was the 7th time it's moved since then with it now set for the 21st October. Hopefully I can get this brought forward again...

It means we now need to pay for everything else before knowing whether we've got the mortgage sorted. As it's a bank one we can't go for anyone other than their approved surveyor so there's not much we can do other than hope it doesn't get moved again.

While it doesn’t help your current problem, it’s worth raising a complaint about this. We had a similar issue with the survey holding up the mortgage and not actually seeing the survey before having to commit to everything else. We got money back from the surveyors and £500ish from the lender.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on September 29, 2020, 03:38:17 pm

While it doesn’t help your current problem, it’s worth raising a complaint about this. We had a similar issue with the survey holding up the mortgage and not actually seeing the survey before having to commit to everything else. We got money back from the surveyors and £500ish from the lender.

I think we will given how much back and forth and stress it causes. Good to hear you got a decent amount back from it!

The thing that annoys me a lot is that you call the bank and they take the money for the valuation. Then anytime there's an issue the response is that it's all handled by a third party and I'll need to contact them.

Luckily, someone finally said the bank could actually escalate it and it's now been brought forward to 8th October (the eighth time it's moved...).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 13, 2020, 01:46:58 pm
I've worked my ass off for two weeks on a single document for a lawsuit, sent everything off this late morning with 33 other separate attachments, each one with a separate digital signature, certifications, notifications, certified email data and everything, only to find out, upon having access to the digital folder, that the hearing, due for next week, has been postponed to may 2022.
Now I want to cry.
NNFN!!!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 13, 2020, 02:05:07 pm
I've worked my ass off for two weeks on a single document for a lawsuit, sent everything off this late morning with 33 other separate attachments, each one with a separate digital signature, certifications, notifications, certified email data and everything, only to find out, upon having access to the digital folder, that the hearing, due for next week, has been postponed to may 2022.
Now I want to cry.
NNFN!!!
at least it's not all for nothing!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 13, 2020, 02:07:40 pm

While it doesn’t help your current problem, it’s worth raising a complaint about this. We had a similar issue with the survey holding up the mortgage and not actually seeing the survey before having to commit to everything else. We got money back from the surveyors and £500ish from the lender.

I think we will given how much back and forth and stress it causes. Good to hear you got a decent amount back from it!

The thing that annoys me a lot is that you call the bank and they take the money for the valuation. Then anytime there's an issue the response is that it's all handled by a third party and I'll need to contact them.

Luckily, someone finally said the bank could actually escalate it and it's now been brought forward to 8th October (the eighth time it's moved...).

As much as the Scottish Home Reports are not worth the paper they're written on as an actual survey, at least the system means that shit can't happen!

(so for simple transactions you don't need to get your own survey  / valuation).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 13, 2020, 07:37:29 pm
I've worked my ass off for two weeks on a single document for a lawsuit, sent everything off this late morning with 33 other separate attachments, each one with a separate digital signature, certifications, notifications, certified email data and everything, only to find out, upon having access to the digital folder, that the hearing, due for next week, has been postponed to may 2022.
Now I want to cry.
NNFN!!!
at least it's not all for nothing!
Cheers, I appreciate, even though I'm struggling a bit to embrace your point of view...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 13, 2020, 07:49:01 pm
If a hearing is delayed that long, does everyone involved just sit in limbo? That's insane.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 14, 2020, 06:16:02 am
If a hearing is delayed that long, does everyone involved just sit in limbo? That's insane.

That's what happens in England.

In Sheffield it was delays due to courts dealing with a few big cases (Rotherham grooming etc). Now it's been made worse by Covid precautions.

Makes a right mess of people's lives (or gives some people plenty of time to get their affairs in order before going to prison)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: remus on October 14, 2020, 07:23:47 am
If a hearing is delayed that long, does everyone involved just sit in limbo? That's insane.

This is worth a read if you want to understand a bit about the practicalities of the English judicial system https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fake-Law-Truth-About-Justice/dp/1529009944 My take-away: I hope I never have to go through the system, because it's pretty fucked.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 14, 2020, 12:11:09 pm
If a hearing is delayed that long, does everyone involved just sit in limbo? That's insane.
Basically, yes.
This is a civil lawsuit, but it's the same with criminal cases. I have another postponed to 2022, I represent the victim of an aggression, and at the moment of the hearing the crime will be already expired and non prosecutable. So the author will walk away and the victim won't have the financial reimboursement and I'll have to do a civil lawsuit for that.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 20, 2020, 09:25:32 am
looks like someone found my stashed Occun Paddy and ripped it open to see what was inside it, coudn't even be bothered to figure out how the zips worked. My fault for leaving it, but still shit.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on October 20, 2020, 09:53:47 am
Could have been an angry seal?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 20, 2020, 09:58:04 am
I'll send you a pic of the damage. Seals never go onto rocks, only sandy beaches
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 20, 2020, 10:21:59 am
Could have been an angry seal?

Maybe some special forces were at work
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 20, 2020, 02:24:50 pm
Unemployed as of tomorrow and no useable bouldering mat. Curse you 2020.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 20, 2020, 02:38:14 pm
Unemployed as of tomorrow and no useable bouldering mat. Curse you 2020.

That is a NNFN. Sorry to hear that.


Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy_e on October 20, 2020, 02:44:11 pm
Ah feck, I didn't realise it would be so soon...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 20, 2020, 02:53:08 pm
Unemployed as of tomorrow and no useable bouldering mat. Curse you 2020.

Rubbish, that's really shit Chris.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sherlock on October 20, 2020, 04:16:00 pm
Aw shit Chris.
I've got a couple of spare pads that you're welcome to borrow on extended loan until your finances improve if you want to DM  me.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on October 20, 2020, 04:25:05 pm
Unemployed as of tomorrow and no useable bouldering mat. Curse you 2020.

That sucks. I hope you find something PDQ.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: gollum on October 20, 2020, 05:00:40 pm
Unemployed as of tomorrow and no useable bouldering mat. Curse you 2020.

That is so shit. So sorry to hear it Chris.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 20, 2020, 05:11:12 pm
Cheers guys. Sadly not old enough or rich enough to consider retirement gollum.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duma on October 20, 2020, 05:36:26 pm
Sorry Chris
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on October 20, 2020, 06:03:30 pm
That is shit Chris, sorry. I hope something else comes along soon.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 20, 2020, 06:31:21 pm
I'm really sorry to read that Chris.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 20, 2020, 06:43:43 pm
 :'( Good luck. At least you won’t catch Covid at work.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dunnyg on October 20, 2020, 06:53:52 pm
Proper shit about the job, is the pad repairable or have they fucked up the foam?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 20, 2020, 07:05:25 pm
foam is OK, ripped the stitching on the covers and the zip.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dunnyg on October 20, 2020, 07:09:02 pm
cretins  :chair: yhere some east coast swell this week. Good luck on sorting it all out.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 20, 2020, 07:10:31 pm
:'( Good luck. At least you won’t catch Covid at work.

Unlikely, wife and I have worked from home since March.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shurt on October 20, 2020, 09:10:22 pm
Really sorry to hear your shit news mate. What a massive bummer
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 20, 2020, 09:32:59 pm
:'( Good luck. At least you won’t catch Covid at work.

Unlikely, wife and I have worked from home since March.

Fingers crossed for an upturn in your fortunes.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 13, 2020, 09:15:02 pm
Fuck, dropped a pan on the shiny induction hob, cracked the top. Still works. Everyone says "do not use", but I just can't see manufacturers only relying on the glass as insulation, I would be VERY surprised if the induction loops had any bare metal, and even so, the tiny amount of any water getting through would have such a low ability to transmit sufficient current...

Anyway, we looked on line to see if you could replace the top. £143 from AEG, painful, but not the end of the world. Let's just click "is this compatible"...

Arse.

No, the compatible one is £294.Home contents excess is £200 (not sure why so high, might rethink that one next year), so not sure whether claiming is worth it. I suppose it would mean someone could come out to fit it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: remus on December 13, 2020, 10:08:03 pm
Is there a knock off one you could get from somewhere? £300 seems pretty pricey for a piece of glass (even if it is heat resistant or whatever).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 14, 2020, 08:22:19 am
Isn’t the hole for hobs fairly standard in size? Ie you could get a non induction one on the cheap in the meantime?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 14, 2020, 10:40:27 am
I can get a new glass top next day, so I'm not fussed about getting something in to replace it short term.

Remus - annoyingly, the controls are all built in to the glass, so, of course...nothing else is compatible. I really love induction, but there's no way they're going to last like a cast iron range, or an aga - there ain't no way you'll be buying house with an 80 year old stove any more....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 14, 2020, 01:13:04 pm
To balance out the bad luck (or more, complete idiocy on my part...), my camera (Olympus EM5 mk1) stopped working the other day, PCB failure. Just heard that Olympus can no longer source the part, so are giving my a new EM5 Mk3 for the price of the repair plus £100...nice!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 14, 2020, 01:49:44 pm
Sorry Chris, good luck!!!  :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 14, 2020, 02:59:52 pm
Fultonius,

what's the make/model of the unit? I'm not saying anything at the moment, but a friend of mine has a business cleaning/repairing ovens.

I'll drop her a line.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 14, 2020, 06:16:27 pm
Nice, it's AEG HK654200FB

Cheers!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 14, 2020, 09:50:39 pm
Feel your pain, we got use of a colleague / friend's cottage for a winter weekend, just as we were packing up I knocked over a bottle and it caught the very edge of the bevelled glass on the hob and cracked it right though. Weekend suddenly became very expensive.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 14, 2020, 10:09:04 pm
Nice, it's AEG HK654200FB

Cheers!

No problem! Worth trying. I've sent her a message, and will try to call tomorrow.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 14, 2020, 10:10:34 pm
Feel your pain, we got use of a colleague / friend's cottage for a winter weekend, just as we were packing up I knocked over a bottle and it caught the very edge of the bevelled glass on the hob and cracked it right though. Weekend suddenly became very expensive.

I knew the were fragile, I didn't know they were so expensive! I feel your pain. Have you got any annual travel insurance, might cover it?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 14, 2020, 11:50:59 pm
This was a few years ago.
FWIW it was a great snowy feb half term in Granton, probably worth it for the weather, and Kyle saying "I'm too tired to play in the snow any more, but I'm happy to just sit here outside and watch it falling". Priceless.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 15, 2020, 07:20:41 pm
Nice, it's AEG HK654200FB

Cheers!

Does it have to be an AEG item, or would this Aucma unit via Amazon work? (£109)

I sent an email to e-spares earlier btw, Pippa's recommendation, although I'll hopefully still speak to her later. (NHS; night shift).

Worth a look on Gumtree/eBay too of course.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aucma-Ceramic-Electric-Cooktop-Cooking/dp/B089NFHXDJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_18_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=AEG+HK654200FB+glass&qid=1608059562&sr=8-18-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFNUlY1OTVQNUpMODYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5NDQ5MzUyT1VUTTJWT1lMSlJUJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxMDEzNjgxNFE1VTRGSjVWMlVZJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2J0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 15, 2020, 09:44:08 pm
Doesn't need to be AEG, but not does need to be a 32a induction, not at all bothered about the cost as I do a lot of cooking and I need it to not be annoying and shit!

I'm waiting on John Lewis getting back to me to see if they can source a spare top any cheaper (it's not a warranty issue obvs but I though JL might be nice and help out).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 16, 2020, 02:04:23 am
Doesn't need to be AEG, but not does need to be a 32a induction, not at all bothered about the cost as I do a lot of cooking and I need it to not be annoying and shit!

I'm waiting on John Lewis getting back to me to see if they can source a spare top any cheaper (it's not a warranty issue obvs but I though JL might be nice and help out).

What do you mean by a 32a? I've just picked up a Neff 60cm (T51T55X2/01). It's complete, but I don't know if it's working. Saw it the other night, so when I saw your post I thought I wonder.. Didn't want to say anything until checking it was still there. I'll email you a picture. No idea if these things are interchangeable. Lugged it home, and can knock at the house for more info. You'd be surprised how much stuff that gets left out still works. This will be too much of a long shot, but you never know.

Couldn't speak to Pippa this evening, but she'd recommended e-spares. As I've dropped them a line already, don't mind following that up tomorrow.

Dave.

(PS. 32a .. 32A? Sounds very high.)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 16, 2020, 07:44:27 am


(PS. 32a .. 32A? Sounds very high.)

What do you mean high?
That’s just 1-9-22 on a 6mm campus board, or a 1hr 55 min front lever with a small Welsh Male Voice Choir performing on your ankles.

You know, warm up.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 16, 2020, 09:20:52 am


(PS. 32a .. 32A? Sounds very high.)

What do you mean high?
That’s just 1-9-22 on a 6mm campus board, or a 1hr 55 min front lever with a small Welsh Male Voice Choir performing on your ankles.

You know, warm up.

I've secretly been on the lattice training plan, Aiden is just a prelude.... 32A....the next level....

Actually, that NEFF is 7.2KW / 32A. If it works it would be a good find! If it doesn't work, it's probably worth trying to repair as they were £800 new!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 21, 2020, 09:14:02 pm
So, at the start of December, my fantastic new fucking job, that I had signed a contract for and had theoretically started; evaporated. Well, at least until April, if the project goes ahead. Which was shit, but we’re no worse off than we were, so, ho hum. Ego dented, but that edifice is so scarred as to be barely recognisable as such and work hardened.

But, around the same time, I developed a moderately intense abdominal pain. I say pain, but it was more an irritating, nagging, discomfort that sometimes seemed just off the Iliac on my left or possibly even in my left testicle. After gradually getting worse for a week, I duly toddled off to the quack. He shrugged and sent me for an Ultrasound. Bit of a backlog there, so I finally had the scan this evening (clinics are running until 10pm to try and catch up). To be honest, in the time between appointments, it had faded to an intermittent, disappear for days at a time, mild stab of pain; that eluded all prodding and poking or determining of precise location.

I have a fucking Spigelian Hernia.

No options except surgical, too much risk to let it lie, apparently (risk of strangling gut, apparently).

No idea when I’ll get a surgical consultation and the Doc today told me to stop exercising!
Nearly choked.
Anyway, I have been doing all my normal training, from the beginning of onset/pain and not had so much as a twinge in the process. What sets it off, is sitting, such as driving, dinning table etc.

Anybody know if it’s feasible to modify my training? Switch to using a bench for weights, instead of free standing?
I don’t  know, anything anybody can think of that could be done with a relatively low risk of my gut exploding into my lap?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 21, 2020, 09:18:33 pm
Very sorry to read this OMM. How deeply frustrating. Best wishes for a speedy resolution.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 21, 2020, 09:46:00 pm
Sorry to hear that Matt.

Has the exercise you’ve been doing caused this - or has it come from nowhere/no cause etc.. if not then why not just carry on what you are doing (toned down a bit probably) and avoid the sitting/driving stuff that tweaks it?

Any idea how long the waiting list is? If its bonkers worth exploring private?? (No idea how much it might cost...)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 21, 2020, 10:11:34 pm
Sorry to hear that Matt.

Has the exercise you’ve been doing caused this - or has it come from nowhere/no cause etc.. if not then why not just carry on what you are doing (toned down a bit probably) and avoid the sitting/driving stuff that tweaks it?

Any idea how long the waiting list is? If its bonkers worth exploring private?? (No idea how much it might cost...)

Honestly no clue. The problem of a late evening appointment, I suppose, no opportunity to just be sent off to make an appointment. Got to wait for something to come through the post. I was lucky it was actually a doctor running the ultrasound clinic tonight, she told me, and not just a technician. She was able to give me firm diagnosis and run through the scan (show me the fat moving through the hole and back in real time). However she now has to write it up and post it out. Also, not sure if that’s going to be her referring me to Surgical, or me just getting her report in the post and a number for self referral, or what.

I genuinely haven’t a clue what caused it, there’s no “ow” moment that I recall, just a realisation one evening that I was uncomfortable and (I thought) probably constipated/picked up some gastro bug or similar. Then as the evening wore on, it seemed to move into my nuts, which was alarming.
Anyway, paracetamol and ibuprofen knocked it down and I forgot about it until the next day. Same thing each night for a week.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 22, 2020, 08:45:38 am
Bummer with the job Matt. My dad managed to give himself one jumping off a flatbed lorry holding a bag of cement not his brightest moment. I seem to recall it was fixed with a minor procedure.

 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on December 22, 2020, 11:59:33 am
Hope you get sorted quickly Matt.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 22, 2020, 09:56:53 pm
OMM,

I think it would have helped if you'd been given a better idea of timescale. This will have a bearing on the work situation too, I presume, so I hope they give you a good turn around. You'd think that, given the advice/diagnosis, it'll be dealt with more quickly.

Fingers crossed! You'll have to keep off the marathon front levers for a while  ;) Good luck with it. Good that some other things have been ruled out too.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on February 03, 2021, 01:02:22 am
Had ultrasound from PT today - he thought it looked like a full A2 rupture :'( No climbing from me for a while...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 03, 2021, 06:21:28 am
Had ultrasound from PT today - he thought it looked like a full A2 rupture :'( No climbing from me for a while...

Sorry to hear that Coops, really crappy news. Good healing.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 03, 2021, 08:29:18 am
What a bastard.

You had said you hadn't skied much this winter, got an excuse now! :)

Looks like Front Range has had a bit of a dump ready for weekend, those Keystone glades are calling.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bradders on February 03, 2021, 08:33:05 am
That sucks Coops, sorry to hear.

Remember there's always something you can do with an injury, so maybe try to focus on that rather than what you can't.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 03, 2021, 11:44:48 am
Shit - sorry to hear that Coops.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 03, 2021, 07:47:12 pm
That is frustrating. Can you get a surgeon to fix it or is a conservative approach considered better?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on February 03, 2021, 08:53:00 pm
That is frustrating. Can you get a surgeon to fix it or is a conservative approach considered better?
Conservative approach best I think. Don't think it's bad enough for surgery thankfully
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 03, 2021, 05:06:17 pm
Managed to blow a piston.
 :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 03, 2021, 07:33:14 pm
Is that a metaphor?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 03, 2021, 10:27:11 pm
Sadly not. Cylinder and piston are fu**ed. Hopefully nothing more. The ups and downs of two stroke engins...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 03, 2021, 10:51:22 pm
Sadly not. Cylinder and piston are fu**ed. Hopefully nothing more. The ups and downs of two stroke engins...

Or, in this case, the lack of ups and downs...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 04, 2021, 07:02:50 am
Easier to fix on a 2 stroke though...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 20, 2021, 02:08:21 pm
A friends motorbike got stolen this week and he got the cctv Showing the van that stole it with its reg plate (no tax, no mot, but not registered as stolen).

I found a photo of the van on Facebook next to another van (which has had a recent mot test).

The people commenting on that photo - about driving the van used in the theft without tax/mot - are family members of some people doing time for bike theft (it’s amazing what you can find on Facebook and local court records).

So likely the same people who took this one and they are clearly still using the van on the same plates (photo from 6 months ago).

The photo was unfortunately posted by someone not using a full name though.

I think this info is being passed onto the police but I thought I’d rant on his behalf and see if there’s anything else that’s worth doing?

Got a £2k insurance excess so a completely shit situation to be in.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dontfollowme on March 20, 2021, 08:02:31 pm
Preserve the Facebook material in case it gets deleted before the police get to it. Advise you friend to take a lower xs next time.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 22, 2021, 09:00:04 am
Agree, screenshot everything.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 22, 2021, 09:41:00 am
Got it all screenshotted now, thanks! It's a proper shit situation - also the bike was on finance so the payout would only cover that.

Lose bike, lose equity built up in the PCP over the last few years, lose excess.

Thieves are wankers.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 30, 2021, 09:34:49 am
Downclimb to new bouldering spot with DSLR in hand, one tricky step so hang it on shoulder step down and bump it with my knee as I step down. 30 ft drop into a shallow rockpool and my camera is fucked.

Plus side, new bouldering spot is fucking awesome.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 30, 2021, 09:46:17 am
Downclimb to new bouldering spot with DSLR in hand, one tricky step so hang it on shoulder step down and bump it with my knee as I step down. 30 ft drop into a shallow rockpool and my camera is fucked.

Plus side, new bouldering spot is fucking awesome.

Ouch! The one I brought back from America?  I'll head to yosemite again if you need another one ;-)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 30, 2021, 10:36:57 am
That's the one. It's had a good innings. When can you leave :)

When was that BTW, was trying to work out how long I'd had it for.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 30, 2021, 10:55:59 am
That's the one. It's had a good innings. When can you leave :)

When was that BTW, was trying to work out how long I'd had it for.

I guess it was my trip with Neil, so Autumn 2016.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/7512/29696631924_fc18dfbd73_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Mfc14f)Buena Vista-2 (https://flic.kr/p/Mfc14f) by Alasdair Fulton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/128800111@N04/), on Flickr
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 30, 2021, 11:01:44 am
Cheers, going to see what insurance says, 5 years means probably de for upgrade :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on May 13, 2021, 05:45:30 pm
Definitely a first world NNFN which is inconsequential in the grand scheme of things but... Just cancelled Asian honeymoon plans due to low likelihood of being able to travel there late summer - looking at closer opportunities now  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: kelvin on May 13, 2021, 06:48:03 pm
Definitely a first world NNFN which is inconsequential in the grand scheme of things but... Just cancelled Asian honeymoon plans due to low likelihood of being able to travel there late summer - looking at closer opportunities now  :'(

Yeah, that's a bit crap. Fingers crossed you find something you both want to do.

We had to cancel the wedding and honeymoon last May, obviously due to covid - we've still not rearranged it and some days I wonder if it'll happen now.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on May 13, 2021, 09:25:34 pm
Definitely a first world NNFN which is inconsequential in the grand scheme of things but... Just cancelled Asian honeymoon plans due to low likelihood of being able to travel there late summer - looking at closer opportunities now  :'(

Yeah, that's a bit crap. Fingers crossed you find something you both want to do.

We had to cancel the wedding and honeymoon last May, obviously due to covid - we've still not rearranged it and some days I wonder if it'll happen now.
Thanks man, ah I hope you both get the psyche back to re-arrange it! We have our fingers crossed that Biden will allow our British contingent to attend ours...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 14, 2021, 08:26:00 am
Definitely a first world NNFN which is inconsequential in the grand scheme of things but... Just cancelled Asian honeymoon plans due to low likelihood of being able to travel there late summer - looking at closer opportunities now  :'(

Guess Hawaii is part of the US? Sucks tho'
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on May 14, 2021, 03:00:31 pm
Definitely a first world NNFN which is inconsequential in the grand scheme of things but... Just cancelled Asian honeymoon plans due to low likelihood of being able to travel there late summer - looking at closer opportunities now  :'(

Guess Hawaii is part of the US? Sucks tho'
Yeah just booked Hawaii instead which will be sick but much more expensive  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bradders on May 14, 2021, 03:06:29 pm
My heart bleeds for you Coops  :lol: :boohoo:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on May 15, 2021, 03:10:42 pm
Conversely the pandemic can be seen as a golden opportunity to get hitched with minimal expense, planning, family issues, hassle etc. Requires a like-minded partner but I thoroughly recommend it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 17, 2021, 09:27:39 am
Damn it. We still regret not doing it in Vegas when we were there, and telling the family we did it while drunk.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mr chaz on June 24, 2021, 07:29:20 pm
Mixed bag, 2 YYFY and 1 NNFY:

Partner and I completed first house purchase end of May, YYFY! (Woodie shed is on order  :2thumbsup:)

Good timing as Chaz jnr is due in Dec, YYFY!

Fast forward a few weeks and I lost a fight with a wardrobe, resulting in a torn bicep tendon (elbow), NNFN!!! Looking at either I) lots of physio and a slow recovery, or II) small operation, lots of physio and a slow recovery  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on June 24, 2021, 08:50:16 pm
FN... pending potential NNFN!!!!

Took a short (i.e around a metre) fall onto my pads while bouldering at Sour Milk, thrust my arms behind me to cushion the fall and bent my right wrist back on a boulder.  Appearance-wise, it just looked like a severe sprain but felt worse and "weird".  I went to Keswick A&E, where I was told it was a possible scaphoid fracture.  An X-ray the next morning saw nothing untoward but supposedly scaphoid fractures are often invisible on X-ray until around 10 days after the incident.

So, I now have to behave as though my wrist is broken until the post-10 day X-ray - wear a splint and live one-handed (although I keep inadvertently using my right hand to type etc, as "light" duties cause little pain - but might interfere with healing). If it is broken, it's 6 weeks of non-use (if there are no complications).

Hey ho... I was very pissed off at first (two nights eating and drinking myself through an accelerated version of the first four of the "Seven Stages of Grief"!) but now resigned.  I've already done a calibration session for assisted left-hand max hangs!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 24, 2021, 10:18:09 pm
Double ouches.

Scaphiod fracture is not to be taken lightly. Apparently one of the few bones in the body where the blood flows in and out of the same side, so if it's not  set properly the end bit will die and can get arthritic. My aunt boke hers skiing (common FOOSH injury) and never got it checked out until months later, by which time it was too late.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on June 24, 2021, 10:41:40 pm
Cheers for the concern.. I am trying to keep hopeful - nothing was evident on the X-ray the day after, so I presume I haven't got one of the worst-case scenarios - a grossly displaced or non-union fracture. "Dr Google" can be misleading, but I've read reference for very light use of the afflicted arm being okay during rehab (<0.5kg loading) - and if typing and using a camera shutter is okay, i.e. using finger-tips while in a cast / splint, I can work.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on June 24, 2021, 11:52:18 pm
I hope this turns out OK Moose. Not pleasant waiting to see how it goes with this sort of injury. As you say, you got it looked at quickly and the x-rays don’t show anything obvious so it sounds positive.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: AndyR on June 24, 2021, 11:54:12 pm
Cheers for the concern.. I am trying to keep hopeful - nothing was evident on the X-ray the day after, so I presume I haven't got one of the worst-case scenarios - a grossly displaced or non-union fracture. "Dr Google" can be misleading, but I've read reference for very light use of the afflicted arm being okay during rehab (<0.5kg loading) - and if typing and using a camera shutter is okay, i.e. using finger-tips while in a cast / splint, I can work.
I’ve broken both of mine - no problems so far.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 25, 2021, 07:49:24 am
Ouch!
Best of luck to both of you guys for a complete and quick recovery.
On a side note, after just a few weeks of supinated grip pull ups and bentover rows, I started feeling a slight niggle in my medial left elbow.
I'd better sack them and avoid another NNFN... 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mr chaz on June 25, 2021, 09:06:02 am
Fucking hell Nibs, cease and desist! I’d had an extremely mild niggle in my elbow for a few weeks prior, thought it was just DOMS. Put my body weight into moving the wardrobe with my arm down low, palm away, and rrrrrriiiiipppp. 5 minute lie down feeling sick, increasing pain and then a trip to minor injuries.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 25, 2021, 01:26:55 pm
Fucking hell Nibs, cease and desist!
You can bet I will.
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mr chaz on July 01, 2021, 01:48:52 pm

Fast forward a few weeks and I lost a fight with a wardrobe, resulting in a torn bicep tendon (elbow), NNFN!!! Looking at either I) lots of physio and a slow recovery, or II) small operation, lots of physio and a slow recovery  :wall:

Had my ultrasound Wed and consultation this morning, diagnosis: High grade partial tear of distal biceps tendon. After being told I would be a prime candidate for operating to put it right, they've changed their minds and think it can be managed without. So now I'm on 5 weeks with no lifting whatsoever before they see me again, followed by months of physio and it may never heal back to full strength. If after 3 or 4months there's still significant weakness, they will reconsider the op. Here we bloody go....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on July 01, 2021, 02:21:55 pm
Did you get seen on the NHS. I ask this because when I snapped my Achilles bouldering. The NHS doctor said they went down the non surgical route if you were not active. I pointed out I had injured myself in an activity but he said no we will treat it in conservative way.
I then saw a Consultant through my wife’s works health insurance scheme who was a specialist in lower leg injuries. He said it had a 15 % increased chance in re rupturing if treated conservatively instead of having surgery.
It might be worth paying for a second opinion by someone does this surgery for professional sports people.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mr chaz on July 01, 2021, 02:35:15 pm
Yeah, this was the NHS
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: shark on July 05, 2021, 07:30:58 pm
Camper Van was stolen last night off the drive behind a padlocked gate. White Ford transit VN07 NZT if anyone spots it. Nothing special but become quite attached to it recently.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duma on July 05, 2021, 07:33:35 pm
Ah shit news, sorry to hear that Simon.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bradders on July 05, 2021, 09:12:02 pm
Shit, that sucks! Hope you get it back. Has anyone with a van ever not had it stolen? Seemingly happens all the time!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wood FT on July 05, 2021, 09:18:48 pm
Transits are particularly vulnerable unfortunately. Sorry to hear that, Simon. Gus wasn’t lying on your FB post btw, it’s definitely worth driving around. Ask
him about the breakers yard. I think Alex Waterhouse drove around and had his recovered.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on July 20, 2021, 12:17:05 pm
I'd probably get it checked out further before cracking on with climbing. As above, scaphoid # can be very hard to see on any scans, but potentially bad news if untreated. IIRC some distil radius # are hard to see as well, and also a common one after FOOSH injuries. Not trying to worry you, if also may very well just be a bit bruised but a little more patience is rarely regretted in the long run.

A quick update; the long awaited consultation from my local GP on the radiology report was a text message "The followup Xray of your right wrist was normal.  Best Wishes.  Dr XXXX".  No mention of any possibility it might still be broken or prognosis / advice on care . 

So, I decided to do what I probably should have done from the start and informed my work healthcare insurance of the accident.  Had a video interview with a GP later that day and he said the intermittant pain is probably internal inflammation but he'd refer me for an MRI just to make sure.  Two days later, thanks to a cancellation, I had the MRI (which was a lot more "Event Horizon" than I was expecting) and am now waiting for the findings.

From NNYN! (my accident) to YYFY (all clear from post-10 day X-ray) and back to NNFN....

The MRI found evidence of an avulsion fracture of my trapezius - basically the strain on a ligament tore a chip from the bone (my ligaments are seemingly stronger than my bones... though I'm not sure if this a good thing in this case!).  Initial prognosis is that it might settle down but surgery might be for the best.  So, I'm being referred to a specialist orthapedic hand surgeon for a consulation. 

Ah well... at least I now feel better informed about my situation... and the weather is too hot for climbing anyway (mind you, it's too hot for walking too really!).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 20, 2021, 12:46:17 pm
Swimming holes!


Sorry the hoof is b0rked Moose.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on July 20, 2021, 01:16:14 pm
That's a shame but a good job it was recognised. As I said before, I had an avulsion fracture spotted at second X-Ray. Mine resolved about as fast as a significant sprain - ie in about 6 weeks - I did not require surgery and I've had no long term problems. Hope yours is no worse. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: M1V0 on July 20, 2021, 01:18:57 pm
Trapezius? Blimey, good effort chipping your back! But seriously, sorry to hear about the trapezoid fracture, same one I fractured. No surgery, but healed well and I've never had any issues with it since.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on July 20, 2021, 01:28:31 pm
Trapezius? Blimey, good effort chipping your back! But seriously, sorry to hear about the trapezoid fracture, same one I fractured. No surgery, but healed well and I've never had any issues with it since.

my mistake - trapezium (rather than trapezoid or trapezius!).  The full gory details are:

Suspicion of acute bony avulsion of the trapezial attachment of the thumb beak ligament. Marked reactive bone marrow oedema involving the trapezium bone. High-grade partial thickness beak ligament tear with ligament redundancy, allowing radial subluxation of the thumb metacarpal in relation to the trapezium.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on July 20, 2021, 01:34:52 pm
Good job you got that MRI Moose!

As I said in the YYFY thread I had a kind of burst fracture of the trapezium in my left hand that the consultant was not optimistic about but my hand adapted to it without medical intervention. The enforced rest sorted out a finger problem that I thought I was stuck with too.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: M1V0 on July 20, 2021, 02:35:07 pm
trapezium (rather than trapezoid or trapezius!).

These medical types are pretty uninventive when it comes to naming bones.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on July 20, 2021, 03:27:59 pm
Good job you got that MRI Moose!

As I said in the YYFY thread I had a kind of burst fracture of the trapezium in my left hand that the consultant was not optimistic about but my hand adapted to it without medical intervention. The enforced rest sorted out a finger problem that I thought I was stuck with too.

IIRC your trapezium was completely mashed wasn't it?  The description of my injury reads unpleasantly but it was invisible to both X-rays and there seems to be little loss of strength in my thumb - it's more of a painful tweakiness with certain grips.  I'm not sure if that means the prognosis is better or worse  - sometimes these more "subtle" issues can have treatment problems out of proportion to their seeming severity!

My fear is that consultant will advise surgery that isn't necessary (or vice versa for that matter).  Is it presumptious to assume that orthopaedic surgeons always think orthopaedic surgery is the best option!?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 20, 2021, 03:48:03 pm
No it isn’t, I was going to post a similar sentiment. I’m not suggesting that a surgeon would suggest unwarranted surgery. But rather their surgical line in the sand is (in my experience) usually crossed a fair bit sooner than a medic…
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on July 20, 2021, 04:34:18 pm
IIRC your trapezium was completely mashed wasn't it?
 

Yeah, it was crushed and a section came out of the middle of it.  :sick: Not having it looked at, being on painkillers that meant I couldn’t feel it much and then getting around in crutches by taping it up meant it all moved into a weird position as well I believe. I had a CAT scan but not an MRI so don’t really know more than that.

I'm not sure if that means the prognosis is better or worse  - sometimes these more "subtle" issues can have treatment problems out of proportion to their seeming severity!

Me neither. :lol: just trying to share my positive experience as I know how scary it is. I presume there was some kind of soft tissue damage involved in mine too given how bad it was (my hand was black at first and it was a long time before I could use it at all) and how the consultant reacted. I was warned that all bets were essentially off.  :'(

My fear is that consultant will advise surgery if it isn't necessary (or vice versa for that matter).  Is it presumptious to assume that orthopaedic surgeons always think orthopaedic surgery is the best option!?

Mine was happy to leave it be even though he told me that he completely removed people’s trapeziums on a weekly basis as that’s how they treat osteoarthritis of the thumb and he’d had a gleam to n his eye when he described how one of the surgery options (removing part of the bone as sculpting the remains into a working substitute) would be previously unprecedented. He was as happy as I was when I showed up again with a hand that worked.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sheavi on July 20, 2021, 05:57:10 pm


Ah well... at least I now feel better informed about my situation... and the weather is too hot for climbing anyway (mind you, it's too hot for walking too really!).
[/quote]

When you originally posted myself and others said don't climb until further investigation. This isn't meant to be a personal dig but I often wonder why we ask about injuries on here then ignore the advice. 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on July 20, 2021, 10:52:15 pm
I often wonder why we ask about injuries on here then ignore the advice.

Have you seen the car thread? Rarely does anyone get any of the cars people recommend- they usually get the one they said they were thinking about in their first post.  :lol:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on July 20, 2021, 11:10:23 pm

Quote
Ah well... at least I now feel better informed about my situation... and the w eather is too hot for climbing anyway (mind you, it's too hot for walking too really!).

When you originally posted myself and others said don't climb until further investigation. This isn't meant to be a personal dig but I often wonder why we ask about injuries on here then ignore the advice.


I was expressing a slightly self- delusional view that I don't miss climbing - a bit of "whistling in the dark".  I've been pretty careful with my injury (especially when you consider my NHS GP made no mention of any possible problems after the 'all clear' from the 2nd X-ray).  Where have I said that I've been ignoring advice?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sheavi on July 21, 2021, 09:06:24 am

Quote
Ah well... at least I now feel better informed about my situation... and the w eather is too hot for climbing anyway (mind you, it's too hot for walking too really!).

When you originally posted myself and others said don't climb until further investigation. This isn't meant to be a personal dig but I often wonder why we ask about injuries on here then ignore the advice.


I was expressing a slightly self- delusional view that I don't miss climbing - a bit of "whistling in the dark".  I've been pretty careful with my injury (especially when you consider my NHS GP made no mention of any possible problems after the 'all clear' from the 2nd X-ray).  Where have I said that I've been ignoring advice?

On the YYFY thread I mentioned, as did some others, that it could be a Trapezium injury and recommended not to to climb until further investigation.  You then did a Depot session ;).  Anyway not really any of my business I suppose and I was in a grumpy mood when I posted yesterday.  Good luck with the recovery.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mr chaz on July 21, 2021, 09:31:18 am
I often wonder why we ask about injuries on here then ignore the advice.

Have you seen the car thread? Rarely does anyone get any of the cars people recommend- they usually get the one they said they were thinking about in their first post.  :lol:

This is certainly how I operate. I already know what I want or what I'm going to do, just need a snippet of support from a minimum of 1 anonymous online poster before pushing the button :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mr chaz on July 21, 2021, 09:59:57 am
Tendons - anyone have any useful advice in terms of recovering from partial thickness tears (distal biceps tendon)?

Its been about 3 weeks since the event and have been in complete rest since, aside from some normal everyday tasks such as driving. Ultrasound showed the tendon is still partially attached and I have decent strength in supination, hence I have been ushered down the route of conservative management rather than an operation to put it right. I have another appointment tomorrow which I believe is to look at my scan with a different doctor, so perhaps operating may still be on the cards.

That aside, if conservative management is the way forward, is there much I can be doing at this stage to help recovery?

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on July 21, 2021, 10:39:51 am

Quote
Ah well... at least I now feel better informed about my situation... and the w eather is too hot for climbing anyway (mind you, it's too hot for walking too really!).

When you originally posted myself and others said don't climb until further investigation. This isn't meant to be a personal dig but I often wonder why we ask about injuries on here then ignore the advice.


I was expressing a slightly self- delusional view that I don't miss climbing - a bit of "whistling in the dark".  I've been pretty careful with my injury (especially when you consider my NHS GP made no mention of any possible problems after the 'all clear' from the 2nd X-ray).  Where have I said that I've been ignoring advice?

On the YYFY thread I mentioned, as did some others, that it could be a Trapezium injury and recommended not to to climb until further investigation.  You then did a Depot session ;).  Anyway not really any of my business I suppose and I was in a grumpy mood when I posted yesterday.  Good luck with the recovery.

True - that Depot session was in the after glow of the "all clear" from the second X-ray, when I was trying to convince myself that my wrist felt fine and any problems would have been spotted (or at least the NHS would have warned me of any potential complications).  The weird tweakiness that became evident during that aborted session was, with your advice, what pursuaded me to push for an MRI.   

Live and learn - the UKB concensus was right!   [I wrongly thought people were just being a bit too eager to share horror stories - like the medical version of rogue 1* reviews on Amazon!]. 

Thank you all for your advice, it really has been very valuable - I just should have taken more and earlier notice (though, aside from that one Depot session, I have been pretty careful... as much I can be, given that I keep instinctively picking up things with my right hand).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on July 22, 2021, 05:54:07 pm
Tendons - anyone have any useful advice in terms of recovering from partial thickness tears (distal biceps tendon)?

No, I’m not qualified, but you really need expert physio advice on that I should think. However, I have hurt similar (maybe brachialis). Heavy Slow Resistance was the remedy of choice. It takes a fair time for things to heal. Search Jill Cook podcasts if you want to learn more about fixing tendons, she’s a goldmine of info. A lot of her research is into patellar tendons but general themes still apply to the upper body.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on July 22, 2021, 06:35:23 pm
Tendons - anyone have any useful advice in terms of recovering from partial thickness tears (distal biceps tendon)?

That aside, if conservative management is the way forward, is there much I can be doing at this stage to help recovery?

Tendons need loading to heal. Everything else is - at best - a minor adjunct to this.

Broadly speaking, loads need to be quite high. Exercises should be a bit painful at the time but not result in persistent pain. Initially, loads should be for short duration and low reps but you can do this several times a day. The type of load - static, eccentric, concentric - is the subject of some debate. If you've not done this kind of thing before a consultation with a physio. is pretty useful. biscuit (https://www.processphysiotherapy.co.uk), formerly here, knows his stuff; I'm sure there are plenty of others.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mr chaz on July 22, 2021, 11:06:24 pm
Thanks for the replies, both. I’ve been back to see the Doc today, he’s happy with my progress and strength, still have a little pain around the rupture zone when twisting. Been told another 4 weeks of total rest and then I can start building up the strength, for which he’s referred me to a physio.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on August 03, 2021, 07:31:44 pm
Good job you got that MRI Moose!

As I said in the YYFY thread I had a kind of burst fracture of the trapezium in my left hand that the consultant was not optimistic about but my hand adapted to it without medical intervention. The enforced rest sorted out a finger problem that I thought I was stuck with too.

IIRC your trapezium was completely mashed wasn't it?  The description of my injury reads unpleasantly but it was invisible to both X-rays and there seems to be little loss of strength in my thumb - it's more of a painful tweakiness with certain grips.  I'm not sure if that means the prognosis is better or worse  - sometimes these more "subtle" issues can have treatment problems out of proportion to their seeming severity!

My fear is that consultant will advise surgery that isn't necessary (or vice versa for that matter).  Is it presumptious to assume that orthopaedic surgeons always think orthopaedic surgery is the best option!?

An update (that if believed, is probably more suited to YYFY!), I visited the orthopaedic hand surgeon today.  After prodding my hand and getting me to do various exercises (resisting his manipulations etc.), he said my fracture is pretty benign as they go and complications that require surgery are rare.  A lucky escape possibly - he said if it had been the metacarpel I'd fractured, the prognosis would be less optimistic (as I understand it, when my hand slammed into the rock, my metacarpel was pushed into the concave face of the trapezium and knocked a bit off, which is thankfully clear of the joint).

The outlook now is that I should ditch the splint and start using my hand as much as I can without undue pain to rehab the ligament (including going climbing). He thinks because of the mobility of the joint and the nature of the damage, I'm unlikely to cause any further damage (unless a twinge causes me to fall unexpecedly and have another accident!).

The only annoyance is that he hadn't seen the MRI results when I visited him (due to an admin error, I had to pass them to him) but he had already seen the signs of a the trapezium problem in the post-2-week X-ray (a tell-tale "fluid line" and my trapezium being the wrong shape).  That's the same X-ray that the radiologist at Airedale said showed I was absolutely fine....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 03, 2021, 07:44:12 pm
Nice one Moose, you must feel mightily relieved by that.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on August 03, 2021, 08:02:56 pm
Aye, although a bit miffed that I have missed out on a few weeks rehab and my recovery has been delayed, as the NHS radiologist who did the 2nd X-ray didn't see apparent evidence of a fracture (or at least cause for concern that should have led her to recommend further investigation).  Hey ho... truth be told, I've rather enjoyed my enforced walking holiday.... (although I am tempted to symbolically set fire to my OS maps and waterproof trousers!).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: 205Chris on September 24, 2021, 08:08:16 pm
Rare post from me in NNFN but this morning someone drove into our van that was parked on the street. Stopped for a look and then drove off again leaving no details.

We've got a description of the car and driver, but no reg plate. I presume this is where the police just give you a crime number and expect you to claim on your insurance? Given our van is bright yellow someone will presumably be rocking up to a body shop with a bright yellow streak on their front wing but I guess it's too much to hope the police will go to the length of this much investigative work?

Fortunately it looks repairable, but it'll be a toss up between shelling out for the repair and claiming on insurance  :furious:

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2021, 08:15:12 pm
Unlikely police will bother. I think they would only bother looking further if a serious crime was committed. And it's easy enough to remove any yellow bits of paint left by hand. Bummer.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on September 24, 2021, 09:43:51 pm
I think your best bet is looking for someone with a camera that saw more. I was forced off the road the other week by a driver overtaking in an inappropriate place. He pulled over in the next lay-by got out and threatened to kick the shit out of me for daring to wobble during the overtake (which itself is a 1:4 hill). Police said they'd check cameras (moorland location) and asked what else I'd expect. They also told me that a car I'd reported as abandoned with all of its windows smashed in, bonnet up and tyres slashed (it looked like it was going to be burnt out but someone got disturbed) on the main road near my house was fine as it was on a private carpark (in response to a photo of it clearly on a road) :tumble:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: moose on September 25, 2021, 07:53:26 am
I recall chatting to a Police Officer at a probable arson of a barn - he said that because of the way laboratory analysis is contracted out and has to be justified, they can often only get lab work done if there is a specific suspect in mind who they are already building a case against.  Nice bloke and the situation maddened him.  He was telling me about crimes that he felt sure had a common culprit but he couldn't get the forensics done (checks of paint samples, footwear prints etc.) to pursue the matter. 

Mind you, this was years ago and the situation might vary between constabularies. That said, I've come across several fires at failing business that were apparent seconds after the owner left the premises (proved by CCTV), and the Police didn't look into them at all (though that's mainly a Fire Service issue).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 16, 2021, 11:50:49 am
First day of half term! Yay! It’s been intense.

And a positive LFT, waiting on the PCR now  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on October 16, 2021, 12:47:24 pm
First day of half term! Yay! It’s been intense.

And a positive LFT, waiting on the PCR now  :wall:

Schools seem to be a hotbed for transmission. Hope you're not badly affected.


My left eye has been getting increasingly blurry over the last 9 months. I can get by for everyday life but it has made it significantly harder to spot and judge footholds. Straight-up cracks are not so bad, traverses are a bit of a 'mare.

Finally saw an opthalomologist this morning who diagnosed 'macular puckering' and gave me a nice explanation with a scrunched up tissue standing in for my retina. It won't improve and may get worse. The only thing that might help is a vitrectomy  :sick:. This has a ~50% chance of success and significant (no numbers offered) chance of making things worse. I've asked to see a surgeon despite this. Anyone have a contact?

This is more or less what I was expecting to hear but still a bit frustrating. An opportunity to gracefully retire from harder trad. onsighting and embrace redpointing? 
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 16, 2021, 01:08:10 pm
Sorry to hear that Duncan.

Time for some progression on gruelling offwidth cracks outdoors, and giant volume wrestling parkour problems indoors?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 16, 2021, 01:41:58 pm
Shame to hear that Duncan. I hope you find a solution that stabilises things. Whatever you do, don’t accept any of Fiend’s suggested offwidths, that never ends well.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 23, 2021, 09:33:27 am
That does sound shit Duncan. Hope you get some good news. Make my NNFN seem very tame in comparison. more of a no no meh no:

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ngXdB5nfRL3uHW4epWPYG4k4_vvdlb4Mamtqg22VE3JVnlgVsIBsRNsTkLdIEfhmYZzwpcc9hUdN9sAJUhRCsQxG7JOoZEFof9rOvap90ms6nzG0Kw-m7BGrqEpvo5reqz0K5stkffYsXlFvgLe7adu7im8MMEqluZG9yVIdzjUwVaXCUG7F81Y6T3x0d6CV6lFncRs3rqKKqiEm4H7sRlMvEBunyqAyzOYyYmcLchc_bpmnD1mu-OhvaTFhACID1dqm_Re4998XQfH3fw4m2KvzXdu7UkBtHmP3eptDk4-_YZ0fipqEPlqxFdxZ0BjaMoPPSCRZg6FasZCUNKVQa-kXP8FVMHBS7BVNg7jti9Tj4QLBLvN0j2tq3CmplqYh2yMbmo_TCJQ2veRkYxpuWo0ze41BSjEE7hiH-sSXXOmcu8b4riZplYCETckBvUXprO2T01C9Sxoqu_QdCUDd4h8V3_1pv0-d7tIvKSvKMNZFMQO6oSoC2__WD5aqk4nJ2Zf3aXAQ6nut9LIkbA2Cg-pljxNdOcMeZBKEQodotFONWx_mh_bsQwbUvAhvxS9pFVqS1cp3MFsjCE4d4rpzTUkpC3DVWC1qK4sCfm9bKfJFZLWrfbdEh_rMPBbf_jA9LB4b5mpj7BeU7zEPwYz2YzI61eJww0ED-AnoWekyNMIWQ-PUtvlTVp_35UAVoW6j-EfuYSA4lp9lqhyyQSAr6yWP=w432-h942-no?authuser=0)

Did this last night, pinched between a heavy new door we had to buy for the flat (bloody building regs) and the carpet. Got a trip to Spain in 2 weeks (YYFY) but not sure if I should leave it, try to drain it, tape it.... I suspect all roads lead to suboptimal skin for the trip...  :wall:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 23, 2021, 09:57:27 am
Sterilised pin prick, drain, leave to heal with the top protecting it, sand and moisturise the hard surface. It's tiny and will be absolutely fine  ::) ::) ::)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on December 01, 2021, 02:35:08 pm
Just back from getting the results of my shoulder MRI... Turns out it's a complex SLAP tear (possibly 360 degrees!!)...

Consultant has recomended immediate surgery to reattach the tendons to the bone and was pretty amazed that I could even lift my arm, let alone climb!

Safe to say I'm absolutely gutted! Feel like I'm climbing pretty well, training is going well and most of all climbing is what's been keeping me sane through all this Covid business...

Recovery should be 3 weeks in a sling, no climbing for 3 months and 6 months before I can start training again...

 Arse! :wavecry:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: dunnyg on December 01, 2021, 02:49:14 pm
One armers?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 01, 2021, 07:32:50 pm
That sucks, good luck with it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 01, 2021, 08:39:18 pm
Just back from getting the results of my shoulder MRI... Turns out it's a complex SLAP tear (possibly 360 degrees!!)...

Consultant has recomended immediate surgery to reattach the tendons to the bone and was pretty amazed that I could even lift my arm, let alone climb!

Safe to say I'm absolutely gutted! Feel like I'm climbing pretty well, training is going well and most of all climbing is what's been keeping me sane through all this Covid business...

Recovery should be 3 weeks in a sling, no climbing for 3 months and 6 months before I can start training again...

 Arse! :wavecry:

On the plus side, you've got good mobility and strength now, which bodes well for a quicker recovery. Look up hyperbaric oxygen treatment for the recovery. It's slowly nudging it's way from crank-witchdoctory to potentially useful treatment. Duncan is very into medical research, what's the current status of HBO?  I did it for my knee multi-ligament op recovery off the back of a paper showing brilliant improvement in healing times and strength in rabbit achilles tendons, which was enough evidence for me!  (also had easy access to one as my, since departed, dad got one built for MS and rheumatoid arthritis treatment.)   n=1 anecdote - I got my stitches out 2 days early and it was so well healed she asked how late I was for the appointment. Also got nearly full ROM back and have since climbed my hardest sport route, trad route and winter route, done 4 ski season and run a skyline race. It was my PLC, PFL and LCL that got replaced...

Double blind human study: https://www.hindawi.com/journals/bmri/2019/6289380/

The rabbit one: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/jor.20360

Also CURES COVID WITHOUT VACCINES. (not really)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 01, 2021, 08:44:30 pm
Just back from getting the results of my shoulder MRI... Turns out it's a complex SLAP tear (possibly 360 degrees!!)...

Consultant has recomended immediate surgery to reattach the tendons to the bone and was pretty amazed that I could even lift my arm, let alone climb!

Safe to say I'm absolutely gutted! Feel like I'm climbing pretty well, training is going well and most of all climbing is what's been keeping me sane through all this Covid business...

Recovery should be 3 weeks in a sling, no climbing for 3 months and 6 months before I can start training again...

 Arse! :wavecry:

Bother.
That's a bit rubbish.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on December 02, 2021, 11:43:58 am
Just back from getting the results of my shoulder MRI... Turns out it's a complex SLAP tear (possibly 360 degrees!!)...

Consultant has recomended immediate surgery to reattach the tendons to the bone and was pretty amazed that I could even lift my arm, let alone climb!

Safe to say I'm absolutely gutted! Feel like I'm climbing pretty well, training is going well and most of all climbing is what's been keeping me sane through all this Covid business...

Recovery should be 3 weeks in a sling, no climbing for 3 months and 6 months before I can start training again...

 Arse! :wavecry:

Oh no! Scary sounding scan results. Dare I ask, if you're climbing pretty well and the training is going well, then why the surgery?

Regarding hyperbaric oxygen, the research in people with poor tissue oxygen supply through poor circulation is very persuasive. I'd buy a kit for my mum if she had peripheral vascular disease and leg ulcers. The research in people with soft tissue injuries but healthy circulation, not so much. Would I use it after shoulder surgery? Probably not if I was paying for it myself. I might try it if I had easy access like Fultonius or was advising a premiership football team with an almost infinite budget.

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 02, 2021, 11:51:22 am
Regarding hyperbaric oxygen, the research in people with poor tissue oxygen supply through poor circulation is very persuasive. I'd buy a kit for my mum if she had peripheral vascular disease and leg ulcers. The research in people with soft tissue injuries but healthy circulation, not so much. Would I use it after shoulder surgery? Probably not if I was paying for it myself. I might try it if I had easy access like Fultonius or was advising a premiership football team with an almost infinite budget.
Hmmmmmmmm  :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on December 02, 2021, 12:14:28 pm
Cheers guys...  :(

Not sure I can justify the cost of the hyperbaric therapy but would definitely give it a go if I had access...

Oh no! Scary sounding scan results. Dare I ask, if you're climbing pretty well and the training is going well, then why the surgery?

Yea, pretty scary... Diagnosis says "There is a very large SLAP tear" and a load of other stuff. The surgeon said if I don't have the surgery then it's basically a short route to arthritis and me not having use of my shoulder in future...

I'm definitely struggling with this for the exact reasons you say... I've had a word with Ozzy this morning and his estimation was that to not have the surgery is a risk, but the surgery is a risk... It's generally down to what risk I want to take??

There's a definite weakness in the shoulder and low level pain after climbing which could (???) be sorted with surgery and the surgeon's view that it's just going to get worse is weighing pretty heavily on my mind....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on December 02, 2021, 12:19:48 pm
Was fully expecting to be lambasted for wasting NHS resources so didn't agree to anything there and then... Think I was actually in shock tbh... Going back next week to either say yay or nay to the surgery so just taking this time to weigh up the pros and cons and try and not resort to alcoholism or recreational drug addiction....
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: teestub on December 02, 2021, 12:21:21 pm
There’s a decent amount of info on SLAP tears and surgical outcomes on the interwebs now, a few trainingbeta podcasts cover options, from the surgical pov and physio pov. From memory of last time I trawled through the available info, there wasn’t much difference between surgical and physio outcomes. Surgeons are always going to recommend cutting you up, so may be worth having a good trawl of available info and getting a few opinions before going in.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on December 02, 2021, 12:30:46 pm
There’s a decent amount of info on SLAP tears and surgical outcomes on the interwebs now, a few trainingbeta podcasts cover options, from the surgical pov and physio pov. From memory of last time I trawled through the available info, there wasn’t much difference between surgical and physio outcomes. Surgeons are always going to recommend cutting you up, so may be worth having a good trawl of available info and getting a few opinions before going in.

 :goodidea:

I'm not getting much work done right now, in between phoning previous physios, trawling the interweb, emailing specialists and posting on here... Got a week to make up my mind but could theoretically extend that...
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 02, 2021, 03:01:04 pm
Just back from getting the results of my shoulder MRI... Turns out it's a complex SLAP tear (possibly 360 degrees!!)...

Consultant has recomended immediate surgery to reattach the tendons to the bone and was pretty amazed that I could even lift my arm, let alone climb!

Safe to say I'm absolutely gutted! Feel like I'm climbing pretty well, training is going well and most of all climbing is what's been keeping me sane through all this Covid business...

Recovery should be 3 weeks in a sling, no climbing for 3 months and 6 months before I can start training again...

 Arse! :wavecry:

Oh no! Scary sounding scan results. Dare I ask, if you're climbing pretty well and the training is going well, then why the surgery?

Regarding hyperbaric oxygen, the research in people with poor tissue oxygen supply through poor circulation is very persuasive. I'd buy a kit for my mum if she had peripheral vascular disease and leg ulcers. The research in people with soft tissue injuries but healthy circulation, not so much. Would I use it after shoulder surgery? Probably not if I was paying for it myself. I might try it if I had easy access like Fultonius or was advising a premiership football team with an almost infinite budget.

My assumption was that a Slap tear like most ligamentous  structures were generally poorly vasculated, especially after injury / surgery so might benefit.

If you find a local MS therapy centre it's pretty cheap usually, £6-£15 a session. £600/session in US on private medical  :o
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 02, 2021, 06:56:42 pm
Well I can add myself to the NNFN list once more as I sprained my LCL at the wall yesterday and am now back to pretty much the same rehab protocol as my MCL last year. Given I've only recently got my head above water dealing with my golfer's elbow and general mindstate, no prizes for guessing how this feels.

generally poorly vasculated
:-\ :-\ :-\ I'm the generally poorly vasculated poster boy and there's a reasonably priced HBOT facility near me.....  :-\
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2021, 11:11:11 pm
If it's any concession, I'm on a string of injuries too. Ankle was playing up before ultra, got that under control and now suffering with sore hip flexor ever since.

Running shown the back seat for a bit, and I promptly pull a muscle muscle in my sternum the fors time I pull hardish on anything remotely steep.

Going surfing tomorrow morning wish me luck...   
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 02, 2021, 11:52:21 pm
Was at the doctor earlier today about my slightly painful / crunchy kneecap.

Might be arthritis.

38.

Arse.

Always knew it was a risk after my knee surgery, but it's gone so well I thought I might have dodged that bullet.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 03, 2021, 03:31:14 am
Was at the doctor earlier today about my slightly painful / crunchy kneecap.

Might be arthritis.

38.

Arse.

Always knew it was a risk after my knee surgery, but it's gone so well I thought I might have dodged that bullet.

That is a bum deal. Sorry to hear that Fultonius.

A friend of mine was given that diagnosis for his knee many years ago. It is painful, It is problematic, but he's still running half marathons. Various friends of mine - some hereabouts - with various bits missing/"fixed"/unfixable have different approaches to mobility. Loss/maintenance of associated musculature seems to have a considerable bearing on how well things fair. Good luck with keeping things mobile and functional.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 03, 2021, 12:00:46 pm
Was at the doctor earlier today about my slightly painful / crunchy kneecap.
Sorry to hear about that, as well about DD's SLAP tear.
I can contribute to the former, knees wise.
I've had three surgeries: 2014 left knee, meniscus and cartilages; 2019 right knee, meniscus and cartilages; 2020 right knee, meniscus and cartilages again.
I have a broken ACL in my right knee and I don't have any ACL in my left knee (shredded over time and disappeared in bits that were vacuumed during surgery). I have broken external ligaments in both ankles, which contributes to the problems.
I also have a grade 3 chondropathy.
Having said that, this is what I can and cannot do.
Uphill sprints, yes, with caution.
Regular jogging or running, hell no. Last time I limped for two weeks.
Pushing, yes.
Pulling, better not (see heel hooks and pulling yourself under a hold).
Hyperflexion, hell no.
Hyperextention, hell no.
Jumps, are you kidding.
Rope skipping, yes.
DL, luckily yes.
Farmer's, yes.
Clean, yes but with caution to avoid hyperextention.
Cycling (not that I intend to), better not.
Climbing wise, bouldering falls and bouldering in general are a risk, I only climb on my board, no heel hooks (need I say heel hooks on boards are the source of all evil?), no drop knees (ut supra), no aggressive pulling with high feet. Just the good old face-on climbing. Staying put feet on with slightly bent knees is ok (board is 53° overhanging).
Sport climbing would probably be the best climbing option but I can't see that happen.
HTH.

And good luck to all the broken ones out there.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 03, 2021, 12:41:14 pm
Was at the doctor earlier today about my slightly painful / crunchy kneecap.

Might be arthritis.


Might be? Need confirmation, and there are meds and diet that can help.

FWIW, my right knee has been "crackly" since age 19 (blame running about and stomping in army boots) and it put me off doing any running for 20 years for fear of making it worse, but it's not progressed in spite of running circa 500km a year for the last 5 or so years.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 03, 2021, 03:13:42 pm
Yeah, need the follow ups etc. It came on fairly quickly. Mainly hurts around 90degrees if bend, feels like under the kneecap and it's just a bit uncomfortable. Not been running much, so if anything it was maybe getting back into deadlifts. Was hoping it would just clam down and go-away.

We'll see. At least the knee is otherwise functional and stable.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 23, 2021, 01:08:50 pm
My daughter was meant to be coming today for Christmas but started feeling unwell yesterday. Still waiting on a pcr result but she's too ill to fly anyway.

Then in the early hours of this morning my wife fell in our apartment, breaking her right leg badly. It's complex and will require surgery. She's still far from recovered from the Guillain Barre she was diagnosed with last year (and undoubtedly caused the fall) and this is going to be a massive setback.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 23, 2021, 01:14:34 pm
Shit, Andy. Really sorry to hear all of that. Hope that both of them are on the mend soon.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 23, 2021, 01:17:05 pm
Ouch. That sucks. Best wishes to all of you.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on December 23, 2021, 01:31:05 pm
Oh no Andy.  That’s awful.  Sending you all much love.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 23, 2021, 01:40:07 pm
Double suck! Thinking of you Andy.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 23, 2021, 01:49:48 pm
What miserable misfortune. Wishing them both a quick recovery.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 23, 2021, 02:15:47 pm
Awful luck. Get well soon to both.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 23, 2021, 02:30:34 pm
Aw man, that's difficult. Wishing speedy recoveries.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 23, 2021, 02:45:31 pm
Whishing you all the best Andy. Sorry to hear that.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 23, 2021, 04:40:40 pm
Thanks everyone. This has been one shitty day.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: peterbeal on December 23, 2021, 04:41:51 pm
Sorry Andy! Best wishes to all!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 23, 2021, 05:04:56 pm
Nooo! Sorry to hear that Andy - wishing you all the best.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on February 14, 2022, 06:39:29 pm
Not one to moan but was mucking about with the kids at flip out Chester trampoline/parkour nonsense, and managed to completely rupture my right Achilles.  :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:

I'm used to the occasional prang that's an occupational hazard in wilderness and highball bouldering, but this is a bit of a setback.

As lockdown informed myself, as well as a lot of us, that these little forays among the pebbles is important for our mental health... Well I'm in full innovative scheming mode.

Anyone else had experience of this particular kick to the balls? :shit:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 14, 2022, 07:05:29 pm
Ouchy, I saw pic and wondered what happened.

Dangerous things! A friend's son tried to do a backflip on a garden one, landed on top of one of the poles that hold the safety net up and ruptured his bowel. Was touch and go, but he lived. Had to have a  colostomy bag for a few months while he healed though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on February 14, 2022, 07:25:28 pm
(https://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-l/0f/12/77/ce/ninja-warrior-course.jpg)

Running up this thing, dumb thing was I'd already done it once
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on February 14, 2022, 09:17:12 pm
Not one to moan but was mucking about with the kids at flip out Chester trampoline/parkour nonsense, and managed to completely rupture my right Achilles.  :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:

I'm used to the occasional prang that's an occupational hazard in wilderness and highball bouldering, but this is a bit of a setback.

As lockdown informed myself, as well as a lot of us, that these little forays among the pebbles is important for our mental health... Well I'm in full innovative scheming mode.

Anyone else had experience of this particular kick to the balls? :shit:
Yes did mine a few years ago. Went to the fracture clinic in Hull saw a junior doctor who said we treat conservatively unless you are active. I explained I did it climbing and was pretty active. Despite this he said he was going treat conservatively.
Fortunately I have health insurance through the wife’s works scheme. I saw a consultant at York who said there was less chance of it re rupturing with surgery given my active life style. I had surgery and it’s been fine.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on February 14, 2022, 09:33:27 pm
Jeez, some bad luck breaks here for folk - Fultonius, Andy P, Hosey B. Crap  :(

That's a gnarly tale SA Chris too.

Didn't see these.
Hope everyone recovers/mends as well as possible x
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: danm on February 14, 2022, 09:40:01 pm
I'll point Sheavi at this post, he's active on here and is both a physio and is currently rehabbing from a ruptured Achilles sustained from missing the pads on our last Font trip. From memory treatment choice is more to do with the gap between the two broken ends than anything else, his was small so it was conservative. Either way it's a long time out of action unfortunately.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Thedevonshirepiemuncher on February 14, 2022, 09:47:47 pm
I tore my Achilles in August at the junction where it meets the calf muscle, 3 areas of damage which the specialist deemed not worth an op!!
Seemed pretty bloody bad to me
It's took 3 months of not doing anything to get a recovery to the point where I could walk properly without pain and now just starting to boulder and do very slow short runs which seem to be speeding the recovery not making it worse which is exciting!!!
Good luck with the recovery and just keep it raised as much as possible , the swelling will hopefully calm down in a few months
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 14, 2022, 10:25:39 pm
Running up this thing, dumb thing was I'd already done it once

Not good.

I had a go at the Edinburgh course, luckily the only injury was 4 days of DOMS in pretty much my whole upper body.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 14, 2022, 10:30:49 pm
Well, it's not *always* as bad as it might seem. I've had good news today, my knee is in pretty good shape according to my MRI/consultant.

The pain is the start of some minor degradation under the kneecap, but still very early stage. Just need to try to stay strong but not overload the quads.

No surgery imminently.

So, hopefully yours is also not as bad as feared!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on February 15, 2022, 09:46:05 am
I tore my Achilles in August at the junction where it meets the calf muscle, 3 areas of damage which the specialist deemed not worth an op!!
Seemed pretty bloody bad to me
It's took 3 months of not doing anything to get a recovery to the point where I could walk properly without pain and now just starting to boulder and do very slow short runs which seem to be speeding the recovery not making it worse which is exciting!!!
Good luck with the recovery and just keep it raised as much as possible , the swelling will hopefully calm down in a few months

Good to hear some positive outcome, I've hardly any swelling (mines severed about an inch above the heel). Will try to keep it raised, but still in the independent and stubborn phase😆
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on February 15, 2022, 10:10:55 am
I ruptured mine bouldering at Burbage. I drove back to East Yorkshire, next day walked limped round town. I went in to work the following day before going and getting it checked out it never hurt that much.
I did it on 16th Jan, operation 27th Jan, air boot till March 8th. Then physio and using turbo trainer, riding bike outside April 2nd. Started climbing again May 2nd on my board and 100 mile bike ride May 22nd.
I used the fingerboard and weights while I the air boot on and when I started physio it was using a static bike, stepper, weights and doing a step aerobics session which was killer.
I was probably in better shape when I recovered then before injuring myself.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sheavi on February 15, 2022, 10:55:31 am
Not one to moan but was mucking about with the kids at flip out Chester trampoline/parkour nonsense, and managed to completely rupture my right Achilles.  :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:

I'm used to the occasional prang that's an occupational hazard in wilderness and highball bouldering, but this is a bit of a setback.

As lockdown informed myself, as well as a lot of us, that these little forays among the pebbles is important for our mental health... Well I'm in full innovative scheming mode.

Anyone else had experience of this particular kick to the balls? :shit:

I'm a physio and ruptured mine on 20th Nov last year. I'm presuming you've had it potted, been referred to orthopaedics and placed on anticoagulants?? Any questions let me know. Good luck.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on February 15, 2022, 04:20:52 pm
Not one to moan but was mucking about with the kids at flip out Chester trampoline/parkour nonsense, and managed to completely rupture my right Achilles.  :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:

I'm used to the occasional prang that's an occupational hazard in wilderness and highball bouldering, but this is a bit of a setback.

As lockdown informed myself, as well as a lot of us, that these little forays among the pebbles is important for our mental health... Well I'm in full innovative scheming mode.

Anyone else had experience of this particular kick to the balls? :shit:

I'm a physio and ruptured mine on 20th Nov last year. I'm presuming you've had it potted, been referred to orthopaedics and placed on anticoagulants?? Any questions let me know. Good luck.

Cheers sheavi
Due to being seen by Ysbyty Gwynedd's answer to Charlie from casualty within a couple of hours of my prang, I got to see the consultant the next morning and put straight in a vacuped.
Consultant was happy enough to leave me to manage my boots protocol and see me in 8 weeks. (Skinny climbers ankles so he could see pretty clear what was going on). However, as I was still in the shockish stage of things and talked a good spiel, I am slightly worried they've put too much trust in me 😋.
Anticoagulant was a shock as it's my first experience of doing my own injections. I'm sure I'll have lots of questions further down the road, but I'll probably DM you if that's ok.

The only thing that comes to mind at the moment is I keep weighting the boot, as crutches are never quite where you need them (or I need to carry a brew), am I going to hell?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 15, 2022, 05:13:54 pm
Aaarghh! Good luck Hosey.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sheavi on February 15, 2022, 07:54:52 pm
Not one to moan but was mucking about with the kids at flip out Chester trampoline/parkour nonsense, and managed to completely rupture my right Achilles.  :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:

I'm used to the occasional prang that's an occupational hazard in wilderness and highball bouldering, but this is a bit of a setback.

As lockdown informed myself, as well as a lot of us, that these little forays among the pebbles is important for our mental health... Well I'm in full innovative scheming mode.

Anyone else had experience of this particular kick to the balls? :shit:

I'm a physio and ruptured mine on 20th Nov last year. I'm presuming you've had it potted, been referred to orthopaedics and placed on anticoagulants?? Any questions let me know. Good luck.

Cheers sheavi
Due to being seen by Ysbyty Gwynedd's answer to Charlie from casualty within a couple of hours of my prang, I got to see the consultant the next morning and put straight in a vacuped.
Consultant was happy enough to leave me to manage my boots protocol and see me in 8 weeks. (Skinny climbers ankles so he could see pretty clear what was going on). However, as I was still in the shockish stage of things and talked a good spiel, I am slightly worried they've put too much trust in me 😋.
Anticoagulant was a shock as it's my first experience of doing my own injections. I'm sure I'll have lots of questions further down the road, but I'll probably DM you if that's ok.

The only thing that comes to mind at the moment is I keep weighting the boot, as crutches are never quite where you need them (or I need to carry a brew), am I going to hell?

Feel free to DM me.  Use your crutches!  As the consultant said to me "if you want to get back to climbing, follow the guidance"!  I had a long discussion with the consultant about surgery vs non-surgery (I went for non-surgery as per his advice and having looked at the evidence).  The outcomes are the same if you adhere to the rehab protocol and the separation of the tendon is within 10mm in full plantarflexion.  Surgery can cause other issues including sural nerve entrapment or infection ( a friend had this and it's caused real issues). 

Oh and use you crutches and stop weighting the foot ;)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 15, 2022, 08:25:25 pm
The only thing that comes to mind at the moment is I keep weighting the boot, as crutches are never quite where you need them (or I need to carry a brew), am I going to hell?
(https://medias.spotern.com/spots/w640/45/45807-1532336916.jpg)
could solve the brew problem?? Also YOU won't be going to hell duh. But apparently, use your crutches!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on February 15, 2022, 09:03:05 pm
Understood!
Got a bit thrown by the sole on the vacuped.. realise I'm in it early. Oh well at least I can behave from now... :ang:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on February 15, 2022, 10:29:04 pm
I used those flask mugs with sealing lids to transport hot drinks from room to room when I was on crutches. I hung a little hessian bag off the handle of one of them.

Don’t look at not weighting it in terms of being good or bad, look at it in terms of how soon you’ll be able to walk again. You can always go and drop some litter or park in a disabled space after you’re better if you really need to feel like a rebel  ;).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: slab_happy on February 19, 2022, 02:37:43 pm
The only thing that comes to mind at the moment is I keep weighting the boot, as crutches are never quite where you need them (or I need to carry a brew), am I going to hell?

Wheely office chair was life-saving when I was on crutches for a while. 

Also moving the kettle and coffee supplies to next to the chair where I was spending most of my time, so I didn't have to keep going to the kitchen and trying to carry drinks back.

FWIW, it helped keep me a bit saner to think of movement on crutches as its own form of exercise, with learnable techniques and potential antagonist training benefits for climbers (we don't tend to do much downwards weight-bearing through our hands). Treat it as cross-training!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wellsy on March 05, 2022, 11:23:57 am
Have fallen off rock and right knee has exploded into agony. Currently at A&E at the Northern General waiting to see what it is. Not ideal!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on March 05, 2022, 12:04:08 pm
Strong vibes your way!
Legs are over rated anyway :no:

Stay positive if you can, have a gibber if you need to
Team UKB are here
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 05, 2022, 12:18:37 pm
Poor Wellsy. Hope it's something as manageable as it can be.

Feel free to PM me if you need some moral support as I'm accumulating an annoying but potentially useful amount of experience with knee injuries and the consequences  :whatever:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on March 05, 2022, 01:46:58 pm
Bad news but ending up there after twatting yourself isn't so bad; they fixed me up very well!

Fingers crossed.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on March 05, 2022, 02:29:39 pm
Damn, really sorry to hear that Wellsy. I’m at the dreaded Huntsman building every evening at the moment since Ms Cheque broke her leg the other week. Hopefully your knee injury doesn’t turn out to be as bad as hers.

As Paul says, they know what they’re doing. One of my consultants and my physio were climbers. There’s a wealth of knowledge on here from both sides of the situation as I’m sure you know.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wellsy on March 05, 2022, 02:33:27 pm
LCL business of some sort. Probably not a complete break but more a sprain or tear. May need surgery may not. On crutches. Leg would best be described as "fucked" but hopefully not too bad. Probably off climbing at least until the knee clinic/physio in a month. Time to get really good at weighted pullups I guess.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 05, 2022, 02:47:56 pm
LCL business of some sort.
Welcome on board  :beer2: :slap: :no:

Quote
Time to get really good at weighted pullups I guess. Time to be extra careful to take it steady and not go overboard on upper body training as compensation because I really really don't want any fucking upper body injuries as well, trust Fiend on that.
:yes: :smartass: :yes: :smartass: :yes:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wellsy on March 05, 2022, 03:31:51 pm
I will do my best. To say I'm fucked off would be an understatement but this is day 0 so will need to take it as it comes. I'm not good at sitting at home and my TV never gets turned on but Elden Ring just came out so that might get a fucking hammering.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on March 06, 2022, 06:58:21 pm
LCL business of some sort. Probably not a complete break but more a sprain or tear. May need surgery may not. On crutches. Leg would best be described as "fucked" but hopefully not too bad. Probably off climbing at least until the knee clinic/physio in a month. Time to get really good at weighted pullups I guess.

Sorry to hear about this Wellsy.

FWIW, reading this, I'd be putting eggs in the optimistic basket, though that may not be how it feels now.
Get (or borrow, think I have a couple lying around) a brace and a campus board. You'll be a beast  ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wellsy on March 06, 2022, 09:37:04 pm
Thanks mate. I hope that the optimism is well placed. And I might take someone up on the knee brace soon, that'd be helpful :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 14, 2022, 04:31:58 pm
Very much a first world problem, but I’m part way through applying for a long-stay french visa for a trip over 90 days.

It turns out that if you’re married to an EU national you can’t apply. How long does a divorce take?

Fucking Brexit
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on March 14, 2022, 04:57:51 pm
Do you even need one of you’re married to an EU national?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 14, 2022, 05:23:22 pm
Do you even need one of you’re married to an EU national?

If she lived there and was working, or looking for a job it would be fine for me to stay.

But as we’re both UK based and don’t plan to work/re-locate (just a tourism trip) then I have to get a visa (as far as I can work out anyway).

There are some immigration lawyers who I’ve contacted too, but it’s so expensive even for a first consultation I’ve been holding off using them for now…
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: battery on April 14, 2022, 12:23:12 pm
Dislocated my shoulder at the wall last night. Knew I should have done something outside in the nice weather. Had to be sedated so they could get it back in so now feel like I have a stinking hangover as well as no sleep and a fucking sore shoulder. Most painful thing that has ever happened to me, and I have had 2 children!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 14, 2022, 12:58:24 pm
Crap! Was it from falling off or pulling?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wellsy on April 14, 2022, 02:56:21 pm
Rubbish news, hope it recovers quickly!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on April 14, 2022, 05:11:56 pm
Most painful thing that has ever happened to me, and I have had 2 children!

Sorry to hear that! On the plus side you'll be able to point at the left-hand end of the comparative pain scale for the rest of time?   :sick:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: battery on April 14, 2022, 05:14:06 pm
Pressing on a straight arm to rock over onto a high foot and the bottom foot slipped. The jarring popped my shoulder out - I was screaming before I hit the mat.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wellsy on April 14, 2022, 06:41:21 pm
Unpleasant to say the least, sorry that happened to you battery, sounds wank
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: battery on April 23, 2022, 11:45:34 am
Dislocated my shoulder at the wall last night. Knew I should have done something outside in the nice weather. Had to be sedated so they could get it back in so now feel like I have a stinking hangover as well as no sleep and a fucking sore shoulder. Most painful thing that has ever happened to me, and I have had 2 children!

10 days in and I'm having a little party as managed to put my own hair in a pony tail and get my arm in a jumper. An MRI has been ordered and I'm seeing a physio on Wednesday but I'm suspecting I have done something to my bicep too, initially I thought it was just stiffness from being in the sling but now it feels like more and is in some ways more limiting than the shoulder. Not sure if I should keep trying to move it or just leave it alone. The first of no doubt many ups and downs on the road to recovery (and if one more person even suggests that I'll not be climbing any more I shall punch them in the face with my good arm!)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Motown on April 23, 2022, 01:31:39 pm
Broken calcaneus after high fall with no mat. Lucky but gutted. Total disruption to all aspects of my life. Any relatively positive experiences/related advice gratefully recieved (apart from anything about mats - I'd let my daughter play on it for a minute).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sherlock on April 23, 2022, 01:48:14 pm
Aw shit.
Did exactly the same about 20years ago. Medics gloomy about future bouldering prospects. No operation but very clean break. Hospitalized for a week (doubt it would happen now) then home on crutches. Excellent and understanding physiotherapist,I followed all advice and tedious exercises.
and after 3 months was tentatively bouldering again.
No issues now perhaps a little ache in cold weather.Hope that's positive enough for you and good healing.
Of course you might be younger and heal quicker, I was 40 at the time.
Now about my hips. And knees........
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Motown on April 23, 2022, 01:57:03 pm
Cheers Sherlock. No op. either and thin fracture according to consultant do he tentatively said that it could heal ok. You're right, no hospitalisation - a mere nine hours waiting in A and E, a quick cast, then home with crutches. At least six weeks like that then we'll see. Pain in right glute making getting up and down tough (left heel is broken one). Knees feel fine but niggles at base of back my main long term concern. Could have been a lot worse is what I'm telling myself.

Sherlock, do you think any problems with knees and hips are a result of this one fall, or more cumulative?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: sherlock on April 23, 2022, 02:13:04 pm
Not even a cast for me. A week of elevation and ice.
No idea about your other aches and pains. Mine are definitely wear and tear.
Hope the lay off passes quickly!

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Motown on April 23, 2022, 03:49:45 pm
 :2thumbsup: for what it's worthy I'm 42 do at a similar time of life.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: T_B on April 23, 2022, 04:12:50 pm
Fell off with hands on the top of Back Bowden 9 years ago at 37. Youngest child was 8 months old. Smashed calcanium into bits. Op with cage a lots of screws (12?). Bouldered my hardest 2 years later, got into running 3 years later and have done plenty of rough fell, road and long days. But no way can I run two big days consecutively. Climbing wise it doesn’t impact anything really. I've lost strength in my ankle due to damaged ligaments and I don’t have the range of movement but I’m not a huge fan of slabs anyway. My advice would be the obvious do loads of physio to try and stop any scar tissue building up that will affect your range of movement. Good luck!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Yossarian on April 23, 2022, 05:04:39 pm
I smashed mine to pieces also when I was in my mid 20s. Sleepwalking accident involving a rather high window. Managed to get transferred to a surgeon who wanted to operate and he put a load of screws in. Took a very long time to heal, but I think it was the right decision. Loss of flexibility and some aches when it's cold along with some minor pain if I'm on my feet for days on end, but I think it could've been a lot worse.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on April 23, 2022, 10:41:27 pm
Sorry to hear this Motown. Hope it heals as quickly and as well as possible.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 24, 2022, 08:42:31 am
Broke my right heel falling off Charlie's Overhang pre-pads 25 years ago. Fairly bad break - 2 breaks and 3 chunks of bone. No operations, cast then plastic support boot. 3 months to heel (!) to normal functionality, climbing again after 4 months, full fitness after 6 months (I was a lot younger and lighter, but also didn't have the vast range of indoor training facilities). Only recurring issues are a slight lack of mobility in the ankle (which makes right leg balance slightly worse), and lots of clicking when i wriggle it - nothing significant.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 24, 2022, 08:44:29 am
Enjoy your ponytail party, Battery! And hope if there's a bicep issue that it's manageable with rehab. And yes work those antagonists by punching anyone who says you won't climb again. Good for the triceps and pecs.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Motown on April 24, 2022, 10:35:59 am
Thanks for messages. They are very helpful. Pleased to hear about everyone's respective recoveries. All the best.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wellsy on April 24, 2022, 10:53:01 am
Good luck mate, hoping for a fast recovery
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on April 24, 2022, 01:05:23 pm
Dislocated my shoulder at the wall last night. Knew I should have done something outside in the nice weather. Had to be sedated so they could get it back in so now feel like I have a stinking hangover as well as no sleep and a fucking sore shoulder. Most painful thing that has ever happened to me, and I have had 2 children!

10 days in and I'm having a little party as managed to put my own hair in a pony tail and get my arm in a jumper. An MRI has been ordered and I'm seeing a physio on Wednesday but I'm suspecting I have done something to my bicep too, initially I thought it was just stiffness from being in the sling but now it feels like more and is in some ways more limiting than the shoulder. Not sure if I should keep trying to move it or just leave it alone. The first of no doubt many ups and downs on the road to recovery (and if one more person even suggests that I'll not be climbing any more I shall punch them in the face with my good arm!)

Good luck. If you are normally mobile it is hard for the shoulder to dislocate without some collateral damage.

In my case it was the axillary nerve: straight after there was not a flicker in my deltoid. This could have been game over but fortunately the damage was mild and resolved in 6 weeks or so. A real YYFY moment  (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8101.msg556465.html#msg556465)when it started coming back to life. The residual stiffness took another three months with a lot stretching that was painful and felt wrong.

Nearly five years later my shoulder is not pain-free but probably a bit better now than pre-dislocation due to hammering the rehab./conditioning ever since (Power Clubs ad nauseam). Thankfully there has been no hint of recurrence.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Falling Down on April 24, 2022, 03:05:27 pm
Fell off with hands on the top of Back Bowden..

I fractured mine at Back Bowden too. Fell off high up on His Eminence over a beer towel.  Took a while to recover but was back running and climbing a few months later, though it hurt when I got cold.

Wishing you both a speedy recovery Motown and Battery.. take it easy.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2022, 10:18:58 pm
I think that was exactly where richieb fell off when we were there for my 40th, recall he damaged something. Luckily mate had crutches at the campsite as he was still recovering from surgery after falling badly in Bishop.

I'm pretty sure I cracked mine at Stone Farm the first year I was climbing, falling off and landing on the only bit of hard ground there. Didn't get it checked out, but it ached in cold weather all that year, then I went back to SA.

Hope you get it sorted and it's not so bad.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: battery on May 09, 2022, 07:22:05 pm
In my head I know this should be a YYFY but it feels like a NNFN at this point.

MRI on my shoulder revealed no ligament damage but there is cartilage damage on the cup and a humerus fracture. They said recurring dislocation is a possibility and surgery was only an option if I did it a couple of times again. He wasn't willing to say I would get full use back, just that I might. So I don't need an op and with some decent physio I should make a full recovery but at this point it hurts like hell, the thought of it happening again makes me want to vomit and the doc didn't seem particularly optimistic about me getting full use back.

So I have opened a beer.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 09, 2022, 09:27:50 pm
Sorry to hear that Battery, misfortune sucks. Sounds like you need a very good physio and a lot of tenacity. I suspect you already have the latter..
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 09, 2022, 10:00:31 pm
Not good. At times like this a beer is perfectly acceptable (unless you have a cigar like Hamlet to hand).

Can you get a second opinion, one likely to be sympathetic to the cause?

I know it's a hard road back, but if you are diligent with physio work and sensible about getting back into it, it will hopefully be OK. I've convinced myself a few times over that last few years that whatever injury I've had (and I've had the full range) is the end of the road, but somehow manage to bounce back to former levels of mediocrity.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on May 09, 2022, 10:07:37 pm
Some of that probably doesn’t sound great to you but I think there is a lot more YYFY than NNFN.

MRI on my shoulder revealed no ligament damage but there is cartilage damage on the cup and a humerus fracture.

You can’t dislocate a shoulder without something being damaged in the process. Any details on the humerus fracture? Presume not too bad if they’re not choosing to operate.

They said recurring dislocation is a possibility and surgery was only an option if I did it a couple of times again. He wasn't willing to say I would get full use back, just that I might.

He was always going to say all of this even if he was 99.9% sure you’d get a full recovery. Always under-promise. 

So I don't need an op and with some decent physio I should make a full recovery but at this point it hurts like hell, the thought of it happening again makes me want to vomit and the doc didn't seem particularly optimistic about me getting full use back.

Totally understand how you feel. Good that you don’t need an op.

So I have opened a beer.

Quite right.

And then get a good physio. and follow their instructions assiduously.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 10, 2022, 09:59:02 am
Wise words from Duncan there. Hope you can make some progress and do some good rehab. Also make sure you're opening beers in a useful way to retrain the shoulder  :beer2:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wellsy on May 10, 2022, 10:56:18 am
Surgery not needed is definitely v good. Hope it progresses well!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: battery on May 10, 2022, 08:27:23 pm
Got hold of my MRI report and had a second opinion - if I want to climb again I need surgery.

Going to go back to the Consultant and speak to them
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wellsy on May 11, 2022, 12:20:22 pm
I hope if you need surgery it goes well with a swift recovery battery. That can't be nice news to hear.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on July 01, 2022, 02:39:53 pm
Should've posted this earlier. Massive NNFN this week for Colorado (and global) climbers. Twin Towers on Hallett Peak fell down burying most of Upper Upper. Climbs like Flying Pinata (V12) and a lot of others (I'm sure) lost forever. Couple of people I know were there and were lucky to escape with their lives. Upper and Upper Upper closed for the foreseeable future

https://www.thedenverchannel.com/news/local-news/rockslide-reported-on-south-side-of-hallett-peak-in-rocky-mountain-national-park

https://www.instagram.com/p/CfZEsoLjg5X/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CfZNJ9KPoWr/
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: teestub on July 01, 2022, 02:51:08 pm
The size of those blocks moving at the top is insane! Sure there’ll be some new stuff to explore once it’s had a whole to settle down.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: 36chambers on July 01, 2022, 02:57:50 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/CfZNJ9KPoWr/

Same clips but with the original sound. Madness.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gu9OTDS3a6g
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: remus on July 01, 2022, 04:58:27 pm
Love that they're just standing around filming while a few million tonnes of mountain falls down in front of them.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 01, 2022, 05:15:31 pm
I thought that, I'd like to think there is a valley inbetween.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on July 01, 2022, 05:56:49 pm
Nope, the boulder they were climbing on got buried. After that apparently they ran about half a mile in their downturned shoes…
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: teestub on July 01, 2022, 06:09:46 pm
Nope, the boulder they were climbing on got buried. After that apparently they ran about half a mile in their downturned shoes…

😂 holy shit! Hopefully they had grabbed their shoes for the walk down!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 01, 2022, 06:17:08 pm
Nope, the boulder they were climbing on got buried. After that apparently they ran about half a mile in their downturned shoes…

Yikes. I would have been hotfooting it, reminds me of video of chairlift being destroyed for educational purposes. at one point the guy filming nearly gets hit by a chair and retreats.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: battery on July 04, 2022, 06:57:22 pm
Nearly 3 months since dislocating my shoulder and no sign of climbing any time soon.

It's been a hell of a journey so far and there's no sign of any light at the end of the tunnel. I've seen 4 different consultants, the first of whom was a misogynistic prick, the second used to treating professional sports people, the third really took the time to speak to me and explain everything to me then got the fourth in just to double check what he'd said and make sure I understood - I'm liking the third a lot.

I have 3 fractures and a bit of tendon damage. Being hypermobile and given the things I want my shoulder to be able to do, the chances of redislocation are quite high but it isn't really possible to assess this fully until I have some mobility back. At the moment it is very very stiff and any surgery would only make that worse.

Had a steroid injection (fuck that hurt!!) and have a regime of very very painful exercises to do - seeing some small gains which helps but the muscle wastage is obvious and there's rarely a day when I don't take some painkillers. Between small children and a sore shoulder I don't get much sleep.

I have days when I feel positive about it, but mostly it's just shit. Been to a few crags with the family and enjoyed being out but also got very frustrated. Can't carry a pack so can't head out on the hills for a walk on my own for the day, some days it's a struggle to drive.

Managed to get back running but since the steroid injection that's become too painful again. Hopefully that will settle soon.

Trying hard to see it as an opportunity to do all the things that we don't normally do because we go out climbing which has resulted in some nice days out. I'm working hard to focus on those things and not just get totally and utterly pissed off (and pissed!) with the whole thing. 4 kilos heavier, a lot less fit. Some days the fight to be ok is easier than others which is also not helped by the perimenapause.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on July 04, 2022, 07:28:41 pm
That sounds shit. Sorry to hear it.

Would you also struggle with one of those unreasonably large bum bags? I'm assuming it's the carry straps that make the pack a no-go?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 04, 2022, 07:49:10 pm
I don't have any alternative luggage layout suggestions, but I very much agree with the "sorry to hear" it bit. That all sounds very harsh from the level of the injury to the unknown healing time to the struggle with even stuff like running. I hope there's some improvement at some point!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on July 04, 2022, 08:55:35 pm
That sounds really grim. I’ve had a lot of injuries, some varying from 6 months to 9 months off, but  never quite the level of associated inconvenience you have there, battery. Very sorry to hear it. My one takeaway from many injuries, is this; with stubborn rehab, eventually, they fix.

Hold onto that thought.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Bradders on July 04, 2022, 09:03:58 pm
That sounds really grim. I’ve had a lot of injuries, some varying from 6 months to 9 months off, but  never quite the level of associated inconvenience you have there, battery. Very sorry to hear it. My one takeaway from many injuries, is this; with stubborn rehab, eventually, they fix.

Hold onto that thought.

Amen. Also, keep talking about it; suffering in silence is the worst.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: battery on July 04, 2022, 09:58:01 pm
Thanks everyone. It's good to talk about it yes, husband is getting a bit fed up of hearing about it I think and because I appear for the most part normal on the school run most people have forgotten about it - if it was a leg and I was walking with a limp it would prompt more conversations maybe but it does all just feel a bit boringly shit right now!!

A bumbag is not a bad plan! Will see if my Pop still has his that he bought back in the day when they were all the rage!

Yes, motivating myself to do my exercises when they are so painful is hard sometimes but I am making myself have a go 3 times a day, even if it isn't for very long.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 04, 2022, 09:59:58 pm
That sounds shit. Sorry to hear it.

Would you also struggle with one of those unreasonably large bum bags? I'm assuming it's the carry straps that make the pack a no-go?

Was going to suggest the same. I've been to hill races where I have had my stuff in an ultra vest, but others have had marge bumbag type arrangements and seemed to get on OK with them.

Can't do much more than offer sympathy and agree with the above. Stick with the program and have faith. And come on here and rage if it helps.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: webbo on July 05, 2022, 07:47:24 am
When I had my shoulder repaired and was going walking with my arm in a sling. I wore my rucksack using one strap diagonally on my good shoulder. Getting it on and off was a bit awkward but at least I could carry a drink and a waterproof which was a bigger pain to put on one handed.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: MischaHY on July 05, 2022, 08:25:37 am
Thanks everyone. It's good to talk about it yes, husband is getting a bit fed up of hearing about it I think and because I appear for the most part normal on the school run most people have forgotten about it - if it was a leg and I was walking with a limp it would prompt more conversations maybe but it does all just feel a bit boringly shit right now!!

A bumbag is not a bad plan! Will see if my Pop still has his that he bought back in the day when they were all the rage!

Yes, motivating myself to do my exercises when they are so painful is hard sometimes but I am making myself have a go 3 times a day, even if it isn't for very long.

Maybe start a rehab thread? Easy source of encouragement and accountability. Also an outlet for the necessary complaining without laying it all on your husband  ;D

Can also be helpful to make a spreadsheet for these things and include very moderate progress goals etc. All helps with the consistency which is what will sort it in the end.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: seankenny on July 05, 2022, 02:20:51 pm
Any kind of spreadsheet, diary or tickbox is catnip for me. I’ve just got a new symptoms diary and meditation/breathwork sheet for my long covid and now I have a dumb box to tick I’m much better at doing those things.

Part of me feels it’s a bit sad but Jerry Seinfeld has a story about doing something similar - ticking off writing days on the calendar - and he’s clearly a pretty motivated chap…

Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 27, 2022, 09:17:10 am
My turn for knee woes. Had a decent run on Monday night, first 10k at a decent pace in a while with cooler temps. Felt fine afterwards, first time with no niggles in ages.
 
Later on in evening crouched down to get something from garage floor, and felt something in top of knee go, now really sore on top left side of right knee, and sometimes gives a clunk when I straighten it.. Have iced it and got knee support on it right now, going to see a physio this week.

Annoyingly this morning was the first in ages with decent waves, I figured energetic pop-ups would be a very bad idea.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wellsy on July 27, 2022, 09:38:46 am
Sorry to hear that mate. Hopefully something that clears up soon and is just a short term thing
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on July 27, 2022, 11:53:56 am
Hopefully, that will settle quickly for you Chris.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 27, 2022, 12:33:45 pm
Yeah boo to that, hope it's okay.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: edshakey on December 13, 2022, 03:15:47 pm
Hey look, another knee issue! My turn this time.

Had my knee scanned after pain while running. Turns out it's a bruised tibia which can be solved pretty exclusively by rest. And has to be solved to avoid long term, bigger issues.

So no running til at least another scan in March, probably no bouldering, need to find out if big walks are out of the question too. Now would be a good time for Leeds Big Depot to open! Else i'll be forced into something like... cycling  :sick:

I had recently been trying to plan a year of racing, including thinking of some as early as April. Looks like those plans are going right out the window. Don't know why I hadn't considered I'd need extended time off, just assumed it'd be a few weeks and some physio, or even just no issue and get over the pain. I suppose it's lucky that it isn't anything too crazy like a ligament tear etc, but it sure seems shit now to miss out on a whole winter of training.  :'(
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on December 13, 2022, 05:46:12 pm
Sorry to hear that Ed. Try steep board climbing where you can just climb one-legged or two-legged then drop off onto one. I had a bruised head of my femur once and just moonboarded - when I got to top, I got someone to push a box-jump box under for me to step off onto
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: edshakey on December 13, 2022, 07:14:59 pm
Cheers, glad to hear a similar story.

I hadn't considered controlled one leg falls! I'll give that a go. Might also do some circuit board stuff- doing stuff below my limit (without falls) on there seems less boring and more worthwhile than doing just easy bouldering
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: cheque on December 13, 2022, 08:02:58 pm
Have you considered climbing with a rope Ed? That’s my solution to not being able to take impacts.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: edshakey on December 13, 2022, 08:27:46 pm
I have, but it's not going to fill my time quite the same - it's not exactly on my doorstep like running is! It'll be more of a trek to a wall than normal until depot reopens, and good days for winter trad/sport can be a bit rare.

However, I will make some effort to, especially since my partner is trying to console me by promising to get out trad-ing at some point, despite being the biggest fairweather climber I know - I'll be holding her to that! One freezing day at Brimham and I'm sure she'll be withdrawing it in an instant  ;D

I am grateful that impact is what I need to avoid, rather than all forms of exercise involving my knee - could be a lot worse I suppose  :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 13, 2022, 10:35:22 pm
Bummer. Are you 100 % confident diagnosis is right? Worth a second opinion?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: edshakey on December 13, 2022, 10:53:41 pm
Unfortunately confident. I got shown the MRI and it looks exactly like any Google image search result for bone bruise. And the doctor is a knee specialist. Reckon i'd just be kidding myself by trying to get it looked at again  :(

My next step is to ask for another chat about what I should/shouldn't/can/can't do, in more detail than today, since I think I was a bit shocked and didn't really know what to ask. Once I've established that, I can look at what I can do to keep busy, stay fit, and potentially get ahead on the rehab/prevention stuff - I'm sure it would benefit my knees in the long run to strengthen them, so if I can do that soon, it might help me get back out once the bruising has ceased.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 14, 2022, 07:46:36 am
When I had knee pain the physio advised uphill only- shorter strides, lower impact. Plus walking down makes for good intervals if he short and steep.

Might be a place to start when you’re ready?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: edshakey on December 14, 2022, 08:35:51 am
Good thinking. And I was hoping to be hill training anyway, so this could keep me on top of it.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: T_B on December 14, 2022, 10:20:04 am
Poles might help too.

Seems weird that the recovery time is longer than a stress fracture, not that I’ve ever heard of someone having a bruised bone tbh.

Hope it get better quickly. I’ve heard slant boards are the silver bullet for knees.

There’s always pool running if you’re fully psyched!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 14, 2022, 10:48:48 am
Maybe look at getting some trainer with a bit of a stack for when you get back?
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: edshakey on December 14, 2022, 06:06:19 pm
Poles might help too.

Seems weird that the recovery time is longer than a stress fracture, not that I’ve ever heard of someone having a bruised bone tbh.

Hope it get better quickly. I’ve heard slant boards are the silver bullet for knees.

There’s always pool running if you’re fully psyched!

Thanks, I'd not heard of it either, will keep looking into it - although from first impressions, lots of bone bruise information seem to talk about an impact from a projectile or similar, whereas mine seems to be from my own femur!

What is a slant board/what's it for? Never heard of them before. They appear flexibility related?

I was looking at poles anyway, this might make sure I do get them

Maybe look at getting some trainer with a bit of a stack for when you get back?

Yep another on my list - cushiony shoes for roads. Not massively worried if roads will cause me issues in fast shoes in the long term, just so long as I can run on them with something chunky when needed


Appreciate the help from all, if I get my act together I'll probably come out of this with improved strength and conditioning in other areas so maybe it'll all be a positive! Got to look for that silver lining :)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 14, 2022, 06:13:12 pm
I had a few sessions with a guy who had done The Running School practitioner course, and he definitely highlighted some issues with my technique and I have had less (but not no!) injuries since.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: T_B on December 14, 2022, 06:57:06 pm
https://www.physioparts.co.uk/muscle-power-slant-board?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr8CTo-T5-wIViJ7tCh1wUQGXEAQYBSABEgL4cvD_BwE

Seth Demoor rated it for sorting his runner’s knee:

From 12 mins:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xI6Wr9cEbM
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 14, 2022, 07:48:04 pm
Good luck Ed, and keep thinking of that freezing day at Brimham!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: edshakey on December 14, 2022, 08:20:20 pm
I had a few sessions with a guy who had done The Running School practitioner course, and he definitely highlighted some issues with my technique and I have had less (but not no!) injuries since.

That is an unfortunate thing about this - I don't know for sure what the cause was. Too much hill running this year? One particular run? I did have a short fall onto a locked knee while bouldering indoors recently which was probably the worst instantaneous pain I've ever felt, but I already had a problem by that point so don't think that's it. Gonna keep researching.

https://www.physioparts.co.uk/muscle-power-slant-board?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr8CTo-T5-wIViJ7tCh1wUQGXEAQYBSABEgL4cvD_BwE

Seth Demoor rated it for sorting his runner’s knee:

From 12 mins:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xI6Wr9cEbM

Will take a look, really appreciate the link.

Good luck Ed, and keep thinking of that freezing day at Brimham!

Cheers. When i'm freezing my arse off on some sandbagged offwidth, I'll try to remember that this is what I wanted  ;D
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 15, 2022, 09:34:46 am
IDK, could be any of a number of things, or could just be spannering it bouldering as you say.  Might be worth getting a pro to look at how you run though.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: chriss on December 15, 2022, 03:40:14 pm
Last time I had shin splints one of my local physiotherapist's had an anti- gravity running machine.

It allowed me to train as normal without the impact. Well worth a Google in your area.

I've also got into yoga, you can do classes or in a spare room Hopefully you'll be out on it soon. I'm recovering from a stress fracture, so feel your frustration.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 16, 2022, 10:05:56 pm
Well not climbing related (though it did stop from going to the wall, soI suppose there’s a tenuous connection) but sat in the dark without water and electricity because we have sprung a leak draining directly onto the main fuse board in the house.

3 hours later, LV still have not answered the phone. We have different expectations of what ‘home emergency’ cover might provide  :wall:

Ryanair pulled a number on Tuesday too. They cancelled the flight home for our school trip. Got o E 24 hrs later- about how long LV insurance take to answer the phone it seems. Idiots.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 16, 2022, 10:17:53 pm
That's balls. Hope they sort it out soon!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: edshakey on December 16, 2022, 10:28:01 pm
Proper shitty. Are you able to stay warm enough? Gas heating maybe? Not the ideal time of year to be without any form of heat  :( hope it gets sorted ASAP!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 17, 2022, 12:21:35 am
Thanks for your replies.,We are okay. Mrs is up in arms but we have a wood burning stove, candles etc. A bit like Ynys Ettws with nice carpets.

Worth knowing to avoid LV tho. After 3h59 both calls dropped. Some 5 hrs after contacting them- nothing. It’s not bad service, it’s the absence of service. Don’t buy their products is my advice!

The other factor is it’s the end of term, I have just  spent 6 days running a trip abroad, I’ve got my own bed now, bliss.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 27, 2022, 05:34:32 pm
Meant to be going to Alicante in 4 days....

Had a fight with a
 (https://www.rutlands.com/product-image.php?size=large&overlay=B15111.png&image=/R1006.jpg)

NSFW  :
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G0uaveGqpds5usWStp3lNAt1xSYJybDBEZM3TMY4LVVIJJRSaNRsoyjoAXHlgZ78gcYzxFQxva_ZgLZ22tWV8U_GtHEoS92SloJ1cuf7K3A1GhdS81ALtyXU_QjdosJf978EXeJn2NSN2ZHjQmjnHfKmwRmM0H7wnp3cOevFgz_WUa8h8NlMuSbNRj2h2uG4Lz1Ls37zl5qA0r8KecS3pdszBELsfPOCozNkTgz-3m5TCEMmHsuai0z3iz4pvZVSgsNIrmij-dd1ua35625PxibNSa3VbyxjYsFee7qacCPIO2GcPXRgvsf_XEd86rRqk2Wrw9zIV2GlL8dC9qoGP1fmA-I0V-CTJSVB3Q4veTWLkztMO56eL8a-P4pqW4i0F9TPud_6VZKun4RFIPyA_hs8HGIUZ20-KOF7TO2EvVK5UZO2BiXh2oXSyKESwuAKXIdHMbDZfCYptgy4OTwYZ4VtupnHvUOitaq2KnHa2UWHd50fmuRH5vku-XLMwvIkvpFdLyPcFOBfMkrJGXhTzjkwKKHdrHbQETIW1gevpHPQCdG2HZDlr0WozxyRCiGB199ToaKKpmSadZ5OdT2vRy60WbQemb2N2LCJ1HtBY379-ARsXcO8I_L6bnwJVMAxJgAm2E474_1NNe2M6E4mVGJ0RATkUZCm12H7g0zE7SuDbZpfcp2GIFmPcmcdTz5PC4Mj8qZ2xWaRV0jaG8VV4fR7vadW05XbadYTvTRm8HZrAkfUzNm7ntr_NieJ9wr9MKIpQ-bDmL9r_Rx_SqV412_IfYRFe6psmmL8qJpJHqTNvKg2hpBds-nOAk6fdTWsyzkN3jLSt8xs8rTmDhbw4ov9FWEFn_S3Fxju3GFxVlx7i8tWSN-hgl2xybm0ngb9CsOstYKY-LFu2o6c-JRFf7p4ZBCA4GmQA3freO4j6lQOdA=w1921-h866-no?authuser=0)

Two finger pocket routes it is for me then....

Luckily (as far as the A&E Nurse could tell), no tendon cuts - but right down to the bone!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Aussiegav on December 27, 2022, 06:22:23 pm
Strong on the back 3?   If not, there’s your silver lining.

Sorry to hear about your accident.   Good luck with the healing & the trip.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 27, 2022, 06:37:44 pm
Shark stop hacking Fultonius's account!!

(The image didn't load but i'm gonna tuck into some pigs-in-blankets anyway)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Wellsy on December 27, 2022, 09:13:25 pm
Oof sounds bad, hope it heals well
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 28, 2022, 10:32:41 am
Open-handing seems possible on day 1 and about 75 degree bend doesn't cause any pain in the cut. Might not all be lost!

Is the pic not working for anyone?  Can't be having you lot miss out on the gore, pigs in blankets or not...

NSFW  :
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/N0bkre42wDzuA1ZI2Ki20B3c7KPAUHsWf4ZjLwvblO2NLlS11igsjZOuL1kA3VGcYMVT8lJ3d2_zPtoguar3beK4v_yVon-FzNkvdbf6A8RIRXjZPm7e0wL0rjcG7rPSzSHT_Rn9456rl83DUVGFBlC4GSB8p21yfHQqNVwQQHxuwHJO5mxpslV3htALrAi5dUiwMiSJngYE5-kveBkYDoCZQ5tgLfSjJevOkzmRLthrrPATZaUg_5smk9fAxE6h_TdX3s9fj-bwWujHVcE6Ds1lKwrF9U_e7zL65J5HlcWrEdGCwH_PdLAoTEnkiXhe6MPsiGooHg5lcmkQCgDJRQkNcZ2f5NqSrvilha1wujGRcPrhxUUyu4EIhqEtuDkEn7C-RvDY5qG8-zEIGQBswB3jP1L029-Gyou4gxE44mB7eo3dgJ1tXbrO9AboOa_fM6k6HHmTlo3UI8xAlg838474CvRnaMBqI44ZFcQFjd51usmzdVledaloCERxFf6VhBJkAx1h537lwN6aOjeyvZDkSTwoST7jqvBM6FccawMV1hJVv4RIxb9Ir7_RsnUBgEB1L11nf7Qcjxzz46UozmiJz49oPo7dhBacB2HVFFxEgJZgFIHERKgd42F2q_RZodrlRz6r6tj1QY3rHVscgVdGcrnezFvOykyN0ZeXVZKHWhZ2YTqRJUFk5dWEZm3TENEZvWHo_HGZWNFuJhW4M4UTVCPRoTCcG--8u3v_b4dAIe5tjdtdDdtOc5kXbNSeisiZYELudozAmteZVEchfh_dMZzWToYmKHBgB7lVGg_c2Vf7qMoHWbbzmzSKe1AZQ4c8FgyXMao2vD1q0fq7lb0JkKXjCxMriHpuyHd7pzdG0Tpp8tRhpo3UN7E0efDiux_a0hQAph_1xX6dTxNprSW6nv6DSHtEBQWSON72v6hYKQ=w1516-h683-no?authuser=0)

A few mm either way and I could have severed my collaterals, finger extensor etc... :o
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 28, 2022, 10:59:32 am
Yikes! I bet you’re relieved it’s not worse than it is, judging by the depth of cut. Hope it heals soon.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Paul B on December 28, 2022, 11:37:38 am
Meant to be going to Alicante in 4 days....
:sick:

The cycling is quite good nearby  :tumble:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: MischaHY on December 28, 2022, 11:58:26 am
Uff. Definitely time for the back three hero to emerge for a few days!
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 28, 2022, 02:01:19 pm
Deep but clean and on a manageable side. Sucks that it happens before a trip but I reckon you could find ways to work around it once it's mummified in tape... :icon_321:  (smiley for finger reasons only!)
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 28, 2022, 11:32:11 pm
Didn't set Tommy back. hope it heals quick Ali.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy moles on December 29, 2022, 08:51:20 am
On Boxing Day I spotted a glorious two week weather window in the south of France, and the perfect opportunity to escape the abject ming of North Wales for some sunny climbing.

The van was packed, the ferry booked, travel insurance purchased, the heating switched off ready to leave, I could practically feel the sun on my face...

And only then remembered that both of my passports are at the Passport Office.  :slap:  :wavecry:
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 29, 2022, 09:08:52 am
Noooooooo! Could have been worse. Friends recently drove from Aberdeenshire as far as Dover, before realising only 3 of the 4 passports for the family were in the wallet they keep them in, he used his just before for work.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: andy moles on December 29, 2022, 09:21:28 am
Yes, that was the first bit of solace I reached for - at least I remembered before driving to Dover.

Also that we hadn't paid for accommodation. No refund on the ferry though  :(

The price of not making plans in advance (and of being a forgetful eejit).
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: duncan on December 29, 2022, 09:40:59 am
 :(  Ferries missed, flights cancelled, flights missed, cars breaking down (multiple), rental cars disappearing, luggage lost by airline (multiple, including a big wall rack), gear stolen, accommodation cancelled hours before arrival, personal injuries (multiple), partners going missing...all seemed NNFN at the time but all could be worked around. Some of my best trips included one of these!

Passports have absolutely no work-around. I have discovered this twice, or three times if you count a friend who discovered he had the wrong one at the airport.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 29, 2022, 09:55:33 am
I once stood in the exit queue at Dover in pre EU (blue) passport times, just next to a disconcerting sign reminding me I needed to have a valid passport for travel. A quick look confirmed mine had expired 3 months prior. At Calais, the Douane greeted me with a cheery “Ah, Briteesh” and my passport remained thankfully uninspected.

I think those days have gone.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 29, 2022, 10:03:12 am
No refund on the ferry though  :(

Too late to even request a date change. Sometimes a cigar called Hamlet is all you can reach for.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: MischaHY on February 28, 2023, 04:42:49 pm
Rocking up on a boulder today and felt a lovely little pop-slap as some of my right quad decided it wasn't having fun.

Thankfully full ROM and only very mild ache with no bruising thusfar so should sort itself in a week or three, but pretty sub-optimal one month out from a Font trip.
Title: Re: NNFN!!!!
Post by: remus on March 01, 2023, 08:29:51 am
Ah shit. Sorry to hear that Mischa, fingers crossed it's not to serious.
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