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the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: 205Chris on December 31, 2012, 01:46:26 pm

Title: Best of 2012
Post by: 205Chris on December 31, 2012, 01:46:26 pm
The previous lists:
Best of 2006 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6675.0.html)
Best of 2007 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8400)
Best of 2008 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10682)
Best of 2009 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13196)
Best of 2010 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16693)
Best of 2011 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19254)

So given that it's raining and I'm not going to get any more climbing done this year might as well start the best of thread for another year.

What were the 2012 highlights for everyone then? Doesn't have to be the hardest, just the more memorable ticks.

The usual categories are below. 3 problems / routes in each category or N/A if it's not your thing.

Top three boulder probs, UK
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Top three sport routes UK
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Top three new route/prob put up
Top Spanking's
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: 205Chris on December 31, 2012, 02:25:03 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Probably my best year to date so narrowing this down to three is tricky:

Big Al Qaeda - A long time nemesis. Finally succumbed to some new beta and a scary top out with no spotters.
My Apple - This is brilliant. Everyone should do this. For a boulder problem it's got just about every type of climbing you want coupled with being high, but not too high.
Blind Fig - Ticked during the Christmas break between spells of bad weather. Couldn't even do the move off the sloper a few weeks ago. About a million times better than Blind Date.


Top three boulder probs, abroad

Went to Northumberland instead of abroad so I'll have to bend the rules slightly

Northern Soul - I'd heard stories of talented climbers being shut down on this and of spectacular lobs from the top. Unbelievably it went 2nd go. Fantastic problem.
Yorkshireman - Climbed on the same day as Northen Soul the experience was almost the polar opposite. A full on day long siege until it finally went down. A very memorable days bouldering.
Titanic Arete SS - Only a stones throw from Northern Soul, but another County classic.


Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Not much trad this year but:

Naked Edge - OK this could have gone it as a boulder problem but I wouldn't have wanted to fall off from the top. Went up to Simon's Seat to find dry rock but a shrouding of mist which just seemed to add to the atmosphere. A stunning line that doesn't disappoint.

Heaven Crack - How have I not climbed this before?! Ok, it's not hard but it is totally brilliant.

Supersonic -  I'll admit I didn't actually lead this but I did have a memorable evening seconding my mate at High Tor. After leading Flakey Wall he tossed a coin to decide whether to climb Supersonic or not (Heads - head on up the wall, Tails - go home). It came up tails. Ignoring the coin toss he cruised it and I had about 15 minutes of daylight left to second it.

Top three sport routes UK
Hardly a vintage year for sport climbing given the weather:

Night Glue - First sport climbing day of the season was over at Pen Trywn. After ticking a few classics on UPT this was a great way to round off the day.

Wild In Me - Not a great route but mainly memorable for the fact that a week ago I cracked my heel bone and messed my ankle up quite badly. I couldn't walk without a limp or risk jumping onto a pad but I could put weight through the toe. Not bad considering I thought I was looking at a long lay off from climbing.

Orange Sunshine - A Moffat route at Cheedale? Yes please. It starting raining before my redpoint go and I was worried the top would be wet if I got that far. Stuck the crux by the skin of my teeth then nearly dropped the top on damp holds. A bizarre day when it was warm enough for tops off but got rather damp threading the lower off.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
A trip to El Chorro in November but all the decent crags were seeping and my partner was ill for a third of the trip:

Alicia 7b+ - Short and sweet. Jug romping to a tricky more and all over after 20m. None of this 40m stamina nonsense.

Rock the Kasbah 7b - Couple of entertaining moves then some crap climbing to the top. They should have just put the lower off after the decent climbing.

Calvo potrun 7c - Not a great route but the hardest thing I did all week. Would probably get 7b at the Tor.


Top three new route/prob put up

Nothing really although I did climb the start of A Little Extra into the finish of The Ring of Fire in mistake for The Flushings thereby creating possibly the most pointless link up at Raven Tor (and there's a lot of competition!)

Top Spanking's

Mossatrocity - Must be my anti-style of climbing. The stand up is probably becoming my most climbed problem on grit.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: csl on December 31, 2012, 03:51:16 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Not much bouldering. But…
Flying Arete font 6a Almscliff - nice high sandbag
Dolphin Belly Slap font 7a Almscliff - hardest of the year
Joe's Arete font 5+ Roaches - perfect problem, did about 10 laps it was so good.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

None!


Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Star Wars - awesome
The Axe - Absolute dream lifetime route
Big Greeny - Gritstone perfection.


Top three sport routes UK

Comedy - First 7c, skipped a clip and smashed it.
Space Race - First big route on the left hand side of Malham.
Sticky Wicket - just nice to feel the difference from April-June


Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Gervasutti Pillar - epic!
All of Ceuse!
Children of the Moon Integrale - beautiful and long


Top three new route/prob put up

None!


Top Spanking's

New Dawn - So many sessions, could have done it if only i could get to the 2nd bolt.
Vagabond - So fucking close! But so far.
Pleasuredome - 10 meter whipper.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: kingholmesy on December 31, 2012, 03:59:55 pm
My two favorite ticks of 2012 are:

The Axe - brilliant, sustained climbing in a stunning setting.  Climbed on my only trip to the Pass this year, which happily coincided with one of the few weekends of hot sunny weather.  This route should be on every trad climbers to do list.

The Knock - a scary solo, made more worrying by a wet top-out.  Watched by my pregnant wife while we were supposed to be out for a nice relaxing stroll.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Gus on December 31, 2012, 05:54:43 pm
As ever, love this thread! psyche squared!!!!

Top 3 UK Boulders
"His Eminence" 7a+/E4, bowden doors. Amazing how scary something can feel even above pads!

"West side Story" 7b+/c, Burbage. Well psyched with this one, always avoided it like the plague as seen to many wads struggle with it. Smashed it in after being up all weekend partying, turns out you can have your cake and eat it! None of this jumping of at the break rubbish either!

"The Minimum" 7a+, Lllanberis pass. Got the full tour from the local crew, and employed a double up of last go psyched AND vest psyche to smash it in!

Top 3 Boulders Abroad
"Le Danseur" 7b, font. Just brilliant balance/dyno scenes.

"Levitation" 7a+, font. Good team ascent, with gibb dismaying the euros by dynoing to a jam in the roof.

"De Fil en Aguile" 6c+?, font. Great, proud line, would probably get about 7b anywhere else. Super classic circuit problem!

Top 3 UK Trad
"Master of reality" E6/7 6c, Hen Cloud. So good, wanted to do this for years, nice to finally put the effort in and get it smashed on one of the best grit days this year!

"Bitterfingers" E4, Stoney. Well sketchy scenes when you've not done any trad  for ages, nearly dropped it on the top. As one guy watching commented "another defeat for gravity!", he wasn't wrong!

"The Sphinx" E5, Burbage. First grit scenes of the winter with westie and andy cave. All 3 of us papping ourselves on the top, felt plenty E5 to me even with a pad or two!

Top 3 Sport UK
"Boat People" 7c, The Diamond. Finally got a chance to have a do at this in OK conditions, it didn't stand a chance! So psyched for the diamond that I bought a boat to get there! bring on some more of that in 2013!!

"Dominatrix" 7c, Kilnsey. One word: waddage!!

"Little Boots" 7c, Raven tor. Got to have a token tor route in here this year, dud to the shitty weather. Surprisingly good route with a  cunning sequence!!

Top 3 Routes Abroad
"Black Moon" 7c, Geyikbayiri, Turkey. Last day psyche. That's the last routes trip I'll go on without doing any training for it!

"Nirvana" 7c, Kalymnos. First day psyche! Quite bouldery by Kalymnos standards!

"Themelina" 7c, North Cape, Kalymnos. Only just better than the 6a+ to the right of it which nearly went on the list!!

Top Spankings
"The Waiting Game", 8a, The diamond. Big up to Chummer, I got well shut down on this, and it was good connies! Couldn't even do the last move, I blame fat fingers!!

Happy New year everyone, here's to a waddage 2013, get yer 2012 big ups on here!!
Peace
Gus
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Doylo on December 31, 2012, 06:03:27 pm
"West side Story" 7b+/c, Burbage. Well psyched with this one, always avoided it like the plague as seen to many wads struggle with it. Smashed it in after being up all weekend partying, turns out you can have your cake and eat it! None of this jumping of at the break rubbish either!

Surely everyone tops out these days!


"Boat People" 7c, The Diamond. Finally got a chance to have a do at this in OK conditions, it didn't stand a chance! So psyched for the diamond that I bought a boat to get there! bring on some more of that in 2013!!

Boom  :punk: :punk:


Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Eddies on December 31, 2012, 06:10:17 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Help The Young (Flashed) Nice and technical
Ram Air (Second session) Font'esq classic
Power Humps the hard way (Second go on second session) Raven Tor classic

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
A Dream Of White Horses (An exhilarating last pitch that was streaming with water)
Devotee (4-Pitch Gogarth classic)
Don's Crack (Ramshaw jamming...ME...who'd have thunk it!!)
Main Wall solo at Bowden Doors was deffo my top solo, full on big wall psyke :)

Top Spanking's
The weather spanked the shit out of me this year  :(
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Bonjoy on December 31, 2012, 09:09:06 pm
Cheers for adding the back catalogue links thesiger
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Fiend on December 31, 2012, 10:53:12 pm
Ragequit is a great name.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Fiend on December 31, 2012, 11:10:03 pm
Fuck me these are always stupidly hard. Done from memory so fuck knows...

Top three boulder probs, UK Scotland
Pump Up The Jam, Skye
Haven, Reiff in the Woods
A Long Winning Streak, Inchbae

Top three boulder probs, abroad
N/A

Top three six trad routes/soloes UK Scotland
American Vampire, Neist
Mother's Pride, Elgol
Headlong, Reiff
Whispering Crack, Suidhe Biorach
Red Army Blues, Aberdeen
Something I forgot the name of, Gruinard Crag.

Top three sport routes UK
N/A

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Hello Picasso, Robin Hood Rocks, Morocco
Some 7a wall thing I forgot the name of, San Bartolo, Spain
Some 7a flake/wall thing I forgot the name of, Siurana, Spain

Top three new route/prob put up
Black Orc, Glen Nevis
Thousand Year Egg, Glen Nevis
Bear Trap, Glen Nevis

Top three spankings
Not getting to Lewis
Not getting to Pfalz
Having various tweaks still
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Will Hunt on January 01, 2013, 12:08:14 am
Top three boulder probs, UK
Dreamland, Almscliff (7a+). A nemesis dispatched.
Galaxy, Simon's Seat (7a). Hardest flash to date.
McNab, Lord's Seat (7b). Chuffed to do my first 7b somewhere special and none roadside.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
None

Top trad routes/soloes UK
Heart of Darkness (HVS), Mowing Word. Turning the corner and seeing the traverse and thinking shiiiiiiiiiiit!
Pluto (HVS), Raven Crag, Langdale. Led the first and last pitch. Shivering with cold (typical June weather), the top pitch is incredible and feels "out there".
The Waster/Gronff (E1/E2), Chevin Buttress. Both these routes are stunning.
Patellaectomy (E1+), Dinorwig. Been waiting yeeeears to do this!

Top three sport routes UK
None

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
North West Corner, Cima Casson di Formin (Dolomites). Pissed with rain and looked like a retreat job but eventually beat the storm to the top.
South Face of Mount Averau (Dolomites)
The two Falzarego Towers

Top three new route/prob put up
Firestarter, Adel Crag (6b)
Long Drop Arete, Low Eaves Delph (E1). Discovered the crag after work and got drawn into this compelling, dangerous solo.

Top Spanking's

The Mincer (Roaches). Not, my, style.
Il Gobbo (Dolomites) - tried to beat the storm to the top and it broke directly overhead. Terrifying!
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: peewee on January 01, 2013, 12:33:45 am
Top three boulder probs, UK Scotland
Tourniquet, Kentmere - Amazing line
Pit of Hell, Parisella's - First 8A
Lancaster Bomber, Lad Stones - amazing line , awsome location

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Souvenir, Chironico - cool little bloc, video made ppl think im tall.
Molunk, great quality problem on amazing rock
Noir Desir, cuvier rempart - unexpected tick


Top three spankings
Zoo York, Caley - Few session on it so far, will make it even sweeter when it goes.
Several finger injuries must get the fingers stronger.
Any of the moves along the arch in the cave.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 01, 2013, 01:44:01 am
Fuck off 2012.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: nik at work on January 01, 2013, 10:55:05 am
Top three boulder probs, UK
Nothing of particular note comes to mind...

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Levitation (7A), Font was good fun.

Top three four trad routes/soloes UK
Hut Circle Mid Right (E6 6c), The Chasms Isle of Man. First non-grit E6 onsight.
Zeus (E2 5b), Gogarth. Finally climbed on Gogarth and it was ace.
Intrepid (E6 6a), Baildon. The start of (a somewhat short lived, thanks weather!) grit trad run.
Friends in High Places (E4 6a), Aldrick Isle of Man. Really jolly good.

Top three two sport routes UK
The Groove (7c+), Bradda Sport Isle of Man. A - MAY - ZING!
Scheherezade (7a+), Llanberis Slate. First time on slate, damp day but still brilliant.

Top three two routes abroad (any genre)
Rockadictos (6c), Pena Roja. Better than Lliberpool, heresy!!
La Bella (7b), Pena Roja. Splendid.

Top three new route/prob put up
Tenaya (E7 6c), The Chasms Isle of Man. Probably the best new route I've done on the Isle of Man.
Kay-Broghe (E6 6c), Aldrick Isle of Man. Nice bouldery little do-dah.
Local Interest Only (7A+), Mytholm Steep Quarry. Name says it all really...

Top Spanking's
The weather!
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Stabbsy on January 01, 2013, 11:51:35 am
Top three boulder probs, UK
Fiddlers Arete Sit (Font 6c), Goldsborough Carr - a new crag for me and one of the best easier problems of the year.
Ripple Effect/Green Nose (Font 7b), Brimham - Don't know and don't care if it's a new or old problem. It climbs really well and that's what matters.
Delta Force LH (Font 7a+), Longridge - I remember trying this when I was a local and being shut down repeatedly. Wind on a few years and somehow managed to get it first time from the new low start.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Nowt.

Top trad routes/soloes UK
Mostly fillers in or repeats, not much stands out.

Top three sport routes UK
Taking the Space (F7b), Malham - little new climbing, but a good excuse to climb on the best bit of the crag. Quite exciting on wet undercuts at the end of the Space Race traverse....
Mr Nice (F7c+), Kilnsey - did the RH finish years ago and finally got round to ticking LH and better finish.
Start to Top Break (F8a+), Longridge - OK, not a sport route, but also not a boulder problem. Originally did this about 8 years ago from the wrong start, so cleared up my slight indiscretion. Probably completed it nearly 20 times last year while failing to tick the full traverse.

Top three routes abroad - all Rodellar
Canita Brava (F7b/+) - amazing, best route on that bit of Ventenas.
Aquest any Si (F7b+) - fell off the crux a few times last year, came back to finish it off and well worth it.
Egocentrissimo (F7c) - drilled, stuck together, manufactured and yet still brilliant.

Top Spanking's
China Crisis, Kilnsey - OK, only one brief go on it this year, but still find this really tough.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: nai on January 01, 2013, 12:22:37 pm
Top three boulder problems UK
Baslow
back in January - a grand day out with Lagers. For a Few Beagles More had felt desperate on my previous try but felt ok today in the great nick.  We went down to Flatworld, I did Hurry on Sundown ( which I thought had been one of my first 7s but I'd used the chock and subsequently found out it was no-tick) while Lagers favoured the slab behind. Those went ok but attempts at Flatworld were getting nowhere and while we had huddled in duvets at the Eaglestone down here we were sheltered from the wind and could lounge around in tee-shirts between attempts. I realised I had started the day having climbed 97 grade 7 problems and now needed one more to bring up the 100. It was back to suffering for our art and another go at The Beagle Has Landed which I'd had a couple of tip-shredding sessions on - go after go too close to give up until the inevitable happened.  Today it went third or fourth attempt sparing my skin which meant I could try Where Beagles Dare before having to leave, my day was made when Lagers texted to say he'd done it. Best day out this year.
 
Trust - I'd gone for a look at Tetris but on the day couldn't even do Hard Arete. Some guys arrived just I was making the tenuous move onto the slab, one of them looked familiar and being decked out head to toe in moon gear I suspected was sponsored. He did Tetris as a warmup but was struggling on Trust. I told him what I'd done with my feet but he dismissed it as not sounding right.  His mate did it my way and after a few more failed attempts so did he saying "it's weird beta but it works". Later found out it was Mike Adams, very petty but made my day.

Famous Grouse
Three sessions in February were yielding a sequence but that progress was halted by a rise in temperature through Spring.  However I've done my hardest problems in early May last two of three years so I kept the faith in the regularity (http://www.metcheck.com/UK/singularities.asp) of the British Weather, bided my time and kept training.  Late April yielded an Easterly bringing cold air, bang on time:
Quote
23 Apr     16 May     Again, a cool period usually, however the Atlantic starts to quieten down and winds from the North or East are very common whilst Westerlies are rare.     67%

First session back I stuck the move for the second LH sloper for the first time, it was three frustrating days til I could get back and I didn't have a clue what I'd do next but it all came together just in time, just a few days later the weather changed and warmed up for good.

Top four boulder problem abroad
Les Calins des Kim - last year I'd walked away from this on the last day and realised about an hour later what I was doing wrong. I'm on it first day this year but I'm having to work it out all over again. A group of French lads come for a look but they're not local and don't have the beta. Or English.  No bother though, my sequence and French holds up and their pads are very welcome. We're all getting the top but the mantel they favour is absolutely grim on this warm day, I'm about to give up when I spot a possible alternative going slightly left and rocking onto the slab. I nail it first try and scoot off wishing them "Bon Chance et un bonne journee", the holiday is off to a great start.

Les Chassures des Prises

It's been hot, on day 3 I wake about 7am and decide to go out for fresh pastries for the family. Amazing, it's 2c and I need to scrape the windscreen. Pastries are acquired and consumed and by 9 I'm heading out alone for a quicky but its 16c already. The problem is full in the sun and although the crimpy start is ok the slopers aren't working, I leave at 11 and the car reads 22c, looks like an early start the next day. A day with the family ends up at Decathlon and as we leave it's noticeably cooler and windy. "Are these conditions any good?" my wife asks and an hour later I'm back at Canon. It's quite muggy in the trees but shaded, a warm up then third go I get it all right. Bingo, a lie-in....

Mardi Gras

Day 4 is a planned active rest day for me so we head to Canche for easy, low ciruits for the kids and girls. Wandering around I spot this interesting problem and tweet home for a name and grade. When the response is 7a it's too good to resist and it goes down fairly quickly if messily.

Sketching in font on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41615882)


Zen

Wanted to do this since seeing the picture in the off-piste guide, my mate seeing the same pic and telling me I'd never do it might have inspired me too.  Last day, mad crowds but really friendly.  After my child-herding stint I head off to find complete solitude just 100yds away. Seems I may have started a move in but it felt the grade and was every bit as good as it looked.

Top three UK Trad routes
Wall Of Horrors

Remember reading Paul Williams' account of this in an old OTE which scared and inspired me in equal measure. Took along time to go do it but so worth the wait.  I'm sure I would have failed on it when I was younger, too little gear, too pumpy and the cruxes too hard. Timing is everything...

Autumn Wall

Had never even heard of this til I arranged to tag along with Grubes at Wharncliffe but it's utterly brilliant and a must-do peak E4 surely. My first at the grade.

Easy Action

Went to Stoney quite a bit this year, got on this as a warm up but it turned out to be slightly loose, slightly dirty, slightly pumpy and more than slightly undergraded, surely a solid E2 and a big pitch at 30m, quite an adventure too if you don't read the descent details and spend an hour teetering about on top looking for the ab.   

Top Two not-totally-shit Uk Sport Routes

Only actual clipped five chains this year, very poor.

The Ring of Fire

Not a bad route but not a great one, it was all about making the grade and moving on, doesn't really warrant being on this list but with nothing else to go worthy it makes it by default.  The plan was to knock it off quickly before moving on to Call of Nature but thanks to the weather it took six visits over three months, I even managed to fall clipping the chain at one point, the scream on the successful go was pure frustration.

Frankenstein
The only sport route I really enjoyed this year, should have flashed it but stuffed up the final move.

Spankings
Didn't think I had anything to go in here until i read thesiger's entry and remembered the limestone bouldering. Basher's Problem & Boots Boys Start should both be well within my ability but just cannot do either
And of course The Press! The Fucking Press, so frustratingly random, one day after a bad cold, feeling crap yet I felt so strong on it for a few goes; other days I rock up feeling strong yet can't get off the floor.

Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: T_B on January 01, 2013, 01:16:29 pm
Despite v little climbing, I had an incredibly productive year :). Trained when it rained, as well as cramming most of my best climbing into a few weeks. And had 2 good trips away (Font and the Picos de Europa).

Top three boulder probs, UK

Les Grands Doigts, Froggatt (this is one of the best 7cs on peak grit I think)
THEM, Yarncliffe (same morning as above)
Art of White hat wearing

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Easter trip to Font…

Quetzal, Puiselet le Paradis (great line in a hidden 'corral' up a thin flake, with a deadpoint into a slot and a spicy top out.)
Tarpe Diem, Apremont
Echine, Cuisiniere (Another hidden gem.)

Top three trad routes/soloes UK


Had an amazing week and a half purple patch on the grit in early May, highlights of which were...

Art Nouveau
Power of the dark side (A gem - easy, but don't fall off!)
Velvet Silence / Jumping on a Beetle (also curving arete the same evening, mint conditions, no-one else at the crag)


Top three sport routes UK


Raindogs
Herbie
The Toilet

Top three routes abroad (any genre)


Piensa en Verde – Cuevas (first '8a' flash)
Soy un hombre Nuevo – Naranjo de Bulnes
Nani – Taverga

Top three new route/prob put up

Mr Potato Head, Sirevag, Norway (managed to combine a work trip with some amazing bouldering)

Top Spanking's


Caviar. Grrr... was actually not far off doing it in late September but it was too hot/sunny and that was my final opportunity. Just 3 sessions in 2012 and probably had the right combo of finger strength and 10-move PE in October, but bought a house that required major work.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Richie Crouch on January 01, 2013, 01:30:04 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

1. XXXX - Had got close last year. Felt amazing to link the few burly moves and top it out whilst Laura made a crowd of tourists halt in their tracks as they were about to walk underneath!
2. A Northern Soul - as good as all of the hype! Felt like I had wandered across a majestic line in Cuvier Rempart :)
3. Bellpig/Pit Traverse - can't decide between these two as I had always got spanked on both in the past but took them both down in a few attempts this year. I'd probably give Pit traverse the edge as it has a nice view upon topping out and Laura motivated me into doing it aft she flashed the drop down crux move I cold never do beforehand!

Top three boulder probs, abroad

1. Left hand of Darkness - a line of crimps in a dark cave may not be the obvious choice having done some amazing lines in font but it was an ascent well earned after dropping the go again off the heel toe around 25 times in 5 sessions. Just before my 9th redpoint of the 5th session, I had an epiphany with the left foot toescum and sure enough it worked!

2. Voigas - Brilliant and unlikely gymnastic moves and nice to do something that isn't a test of power endurance to prove to myself that I'm not completely piss weak!

3. Piranja - The siege has ended! Frat tried this back in August 2007. Failed miserably on it twice that year, for 2 sessions in 2009, another 2 sessions in 2011 and finally smashed its face in this year in a couple of tries!

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Did a few micro routes at Hutton Roof on a scorching hot day, the most memorable bit was eating ice cream afterwards in Woodwell village!

Top three sport routes UK
N/a

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Did 2 in a day both O/S at a crag in Australia whilst visiting Holger. I was pumped up to my eyeballs in lactic acid... they were grade 21 and 23 which I think is a fair bit below font 8s?

Top three new route/prob put up
N/a

Top Spanking's

1. A warm and humid day at Shipley Glen after doing shit at the depot comp the previous day and being out on the booze. I couldn't climb the 6c arête of Red Baron!

2. Massive attack - managed to do the first move this year! Just a few more years needed to do the 2nd move now.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: iwasmexican on January 01, 2013, 03:25:30 pm
Top five (since i did no sport or trad) boulder probs, UK

Top five boulder probs, abroad


Top three new route/prob put up
didnt really put anything up apart from doing the sit start to afraid of the wave at glen lednock, after figuring out the beta i was just pipped to the first ascent by chris, was happy enough doing it next go after: great problem and the moves ended up being really cool.

Top Spanking's
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Grubes on January 01, 2013, 03:47:25 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Holmeward Bound 6C, Holmfirth
Not the prettiest problem but nice pulling hard on small sharp crimps. Powerful and delicate.
Upside down arête 6B+, Holmfirth
Finally after 18months to 2 years of trying. Steep arête on smears
Banana Finger 6A, Burbage
Again finally after lots of trying finally done.
Top two boulder probs, abroad
Problem 24 5+ Buthier Tennis
My first ever problem in font big jugs nice moves great climbing
Le Trou du Trio 5, L'Elephant
Nice slab climbing
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Seams The Same E1 5b, Serengeti
great slab climbing following a proud crack
The Fang HVS 5a, Tremadog
Lead both pitches great moves
Demon Wall HVS 5a, Almscliff
Great moves, Nice climbing, good work out
Top three sport routes UK
Consenting adults 7a, Malham
second 7a and first one climbed in a day
The Quarry Woman 6b+, Penmaen Head
Got very high on the onsight and took a nice big fall. Got it second go. Nice big moves.
Route 3 6c, Castle Inn quarry
first 6c onsight. nice slab moves (seems a theme is appearing here)
Top routes abroad (any genre)
I did not top out my favourite routes this year mainly due to weather issues I did enjoy this though:
Son Goku 7a, Forada
Not really a great route but some nice moves and my first 7a
Top three new route/prob put up
Only put up a link up this year nothing worth mentioning
Top Spanking's
The Jim Grin 7a, Trollers Gill
many trips falling off on lead repeatedly at the same move. One for next year
The Weather
Most of the year has been a wash out and even worse my trip to el chorro was almost a complete wash out
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Doylo on January 01, 2013, 04:22:21 pm
More seiging than volume for me last year.
Top three boulder probs, UK
Paul O Grady, Ogwen. Best 7b in Wales, amazing rock, holds, moves and line.
Pilgrim, Parisellas. Didn't really get stuck into the Cave for a few years so was nice to get back in there. I've wanted to do this for years and always regarded it as one of the best links.  25 moves of pure power endurance, no stopping and a step up in difficulty for me in there.
Special K, Craftnant. Can't believe we didn't do this years ago - no vision! A traverse but a bloody good one!

Top two boulder probs, abroad
N/A
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
N/A
Top three sport routes UK
The Walking Mussel, LPT. Finally got to the next grade after 8 years stuck on 8b.  Spent ages dropping the middle moves (need to be more clinical), battled with seepage and was pushed to the brink mentally.  So nice to come through the other side after completely losing the plot on it.  And i didn't drop the top crack  ;D.
Over The Moon, LPT. Nice to do finish the 8a's on the crag and was a nice experience as i wasn't very fit and just despatched it.  Want to be able to do all 8as like this.  Was a massive confidence builder for WM doing the crack when boxed.
Libertango, LPT. Have neglected the vertical central section of the crag for a while but the routes are immaculate (if a little sharp).  This was a follow the dots flash but felt good nontheless. Keen for Cafe Libre!
Top routes abroad (any genre)
N/A
Top three new route/prob put up
Nanabozho, Llanddulas. Was made up with the sequence/holds on this, felt quite hard and good to have an 8a route at the Dulas.
Tramps Tea Party, Orme. Wanted to do this all year but took ages to work out. Enjoyed the relative stress free process of just going up there and trying to suss it.  Made to look dismayingly easy by Pete and Jordan who thought 7c+.
Last Drink, Pill Box. Not a major new line but a new sustained improvement on my original traverse. Was amazing to be able to consistently do something that was once sooo hard for me.
Top Spanking's
Went to the Bowderstone and didn't manage anything new. Pissed Black Crow at Anston in 2 but never manged the crux from the start. At least i didn't get spanked in Wales, that's all that matters . Was so close on a project then the fuckin weather ended it for me  :furious:
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: dk on January 01, 2013, 05:52:26 pm
Top 3 boulder problems UK
Ben's Roof
The Terrace - only took 2 years ...
Zaff's Problem at Burbage N - Yet done in 2 sessions

Top 3 routes UK
Call of Nature - first british 8a whoop whoop!
Bad Bad Boys


Top 3 routes abroad AKA - Ceuse
Changement de Look
Bourinator
Makach Walou
And every thing else I tried/did!

Top Spankings
Petit Tom
The 'mighty' Rattle and Hump - the easy way....
Anything over v6 at the Climbing Station - Loughborough
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: dave on January 01, 2013, 06:48:13 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Brad Pit
Spring Voyage
Blind Ali's Date (Blind Ali finishing up Blind Date)


Top three boulder probs, abroad

None.


Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Cneifion Arete, Idwal.
Kirkus Corner, Popular End.
The short side of a wet In Pinn, in big boots.

Top three sport routes UK
None.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
None.


Top three new route/prob put up

Clouded Judgement, Curbar.

Top Spanking's
Probably Ben's wall, a-fucking-gain.
Grand doigts - pulled on and somehow managed to slash fingertip open second go, on a hold that's not even sharp.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Yoof on January 01, 2013, 09:11:06 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Jerry's Traverse at Cratcliffe- One of those problems you just don't think you'll ever be able to do. And I did it  ;D
Captain Hook
Weedkiller Traverse

Top three boulder probs, abroad
N/A

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
The Sentinel. Hung around for ages trying in vein to place a shoddy hex, manned up and did it.
Surform. Forgot to take a rack and had one thrown up to me. Learnt the art of shaking out on a jug on this route.
Golden Days.

Top three sport routes UK
Rubicon. Had tried before and got spanked. Cruised it this time.
Arch Rival
Hair of the Dog
(My 7c+ project indoors)

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Chasseur de frime- A French/Swiss bloke complimented me on my jamming skillz  ;D

Top three new route/prob put up
Spinal Fjord- Committing and great
Combined tactics- Thin as a thin thing, again, committing. Cleaning it was interesting.
Shakespeare's Theatre- My first non-eliminate, and obvious!

Top Spanking's
Room with a view- Dynoed the first move, got to the third quickdraw (out of 5). Much toproping later, the best beta involved standing on my hand and doing the most camp dyno pirouette ever witnessed.

Streets Ahead. Rocked up confidently, placed a cam blindly in a crucial hand hold and then flopped off without knowing if the cam would hold. Then tried to toprope it and failed repeatedly. A proper schooling.

L'arete des comiques- Spent two sessions working this. Went for it as a last go of the holiday attempt and tore my fingertip off.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Baldy on January 01, 2013, 09:39:50 pm

Top three boulder probs, UK
Big Air - Plantation. Was a great tick! Spent half a day thrutching at Brad Pit, then sulked and joined a group doing BA. Second attempt!
Crescent Arete - Plantation. Super grippy conditions, we just lapped it in the winter sun 4/5 times for the sheer joy of climbing it.
Ben's Wall - Robin Hood Stride. I dont know about 7C, but what a cool few moves!

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Caroline - Rocklands SA Literally the best problem I have ever climbed, I enjoyed the whole challenge from the start to the finish. Not to mention getting to meet Woods and Graham under it! Sure put a shit ton more effort in while they were there (Graham Fanboy  :hug:)
Cedar Spine - Rocklands SA. Wow, what a cool arete! Highball, great moves, really cathartic. Another great challenge for me.
Dr Crimp - Chironico Swizzy. After two years of not being able to touch the start move, worked it all out on my own and then got the ascent with the group a couple of days later.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
The only trad route I have tried this year is Kaluza Klein, and I am well psyched to go back with some good conditions to give it a lead.

Top three sport routes UK
I just went to go and look for my sport ticklist and it is none existent.
Nevertheless, I managed my first 7c route in Cheddar on the wave called 6 months later (or something like that)

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Nope

Top three new route/prob put up
Nope

Top Spanking's
I cant say I have been feeling particularly spanked this year as a result of continuous improvement - I keep trying stuff that I know is hard for me, so I dont feel too beaten up about it when I dont win straight away.
However, to pick two.
1. Brad Pit - The bastard still holds out.
2. West side Story - Same old story, got a move higher each time I went though, so...that is a win in itself.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: JacobJacob on January 01, 2013, 11:02:47 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Underhand Super Extension - Almscliff (7c+) Nemesis, a rediculous number of sessions.
Spring Voyage - Stanage (7c) Max use of the lank, brilliant.
Pistol Whip - Almscliff (7b+) Feels like 5+ when you work out the body positions

Top trad routes/soloes UK
Point Blank - Pembroke (E8) Abseil up, 4th go, wild.
Night Flight - Pembroke (E7) Any excuse to get back on the Point Blank headwall.
Lord of the Flies - Dinas Cromlech (E6) SO MUCH FEAR.

Top three sport routes UK
Totally Free 2 - Malham 8b
Predator - Malham 8b
Overnight Sensation - Malham 8a+ Hardest route I've ever done.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Zona 0 - Siurana (8b)
Pren Nota - Siurana (8a) Onsight
La Cara Que No Miente - Siurana (8a+)

Top Spanking's

Out of My mind - Pembroke (E5) Couldn't work out where the line went, desperately slapping into the unknown, took a 12m whipper swinging around the corner...

Fluid Magnetic - Font (7b) Really?

Ecstasy - Kilnsey (8b) - Had a terrible time, couldn't do several moves after two sessions... :(

Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: r-man on January 01, 2013, 11:08:34 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Submarine - Longridge. Satisfying one mover. Close on the sitter, which was unexpected.
Tetris - Roaches. Hot day, bit of a fight. All's well that ends with a topout. Beautiful boulder.
JR's Soft Shoe Shuffle - Wilton 3. Classy slab first done in 1984 by John Hartley. Nothing holds and wafer step-ups.

Top three new route/prob put up

A Steep Quarry Project Standup. 6 sessions to stick the crux slap to an arete sloper. Yes!
Hellebore - Stanworth. Could have done it quickly, ended up using all my error cards before I got to the winner.
The Lady's Not for Gurning - Blackstone Edge. A perfect roof lip mantle tussle.

Top Spanking's
-A Steep Quarry Project Sitter. 16 sessions, only done the crux twice. Good job I like it.
-Colt - Brownstones. Three sessions recently. Think I have the beta now, hit the pocket a few times, maybe I'll stick it next time. For those interested, it turns out that the broken hold was not used on the FA, but perhaps it deserves to go up to 7C+ anyway.
-Night session on a brilliant quarried Careless Torque. Too scared to attempt the topout in the dark. Couldn't stop thinking about it for two weeks, but somehow haven't managed a return visit.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: turnipturned on January 02, 2013, 11:27:54 am
Top Three Five Boulder Problems, UK

Isla de Encanta (8b) Trowbarrow- Big break through- Basic and powerful
Sideliner (8a) Crookrise- Awesome roof- no clue how to climb it spent 2 (1hour) sessions after work figuring it out and then the third day sent it.
Heaven in Your Hands (7c+) Brandrith- Amazing, my feet do work sometimes.
Requiem for a dream (8a) Robin Hoods Bay- more the line than the climbing
Sidekick (8a+) BOWDERSTONE- The perfect boulder problem... except the landing

Top three five boulder problems, Abroad

Voigas (8a+) Magic Wood- despite being a shit line and not topping out- its so fun to climb.
Muttertag (8a) Magic Wood- Basic, hit the hold and pull up.
Psoas hole (8a) Targassone- Probably the most memorable 10 minutes of my climbing life. Four ascents back to back all the first goes of the day. Ben, Katz, Jon, Me.
Leftism (7c) Glendalough- Awesome- is Ireland abroad??
Vandale (7c) Font- A week after invasive surgery.

Top Three sport routes, UK

The maximum (7c+) Malham- is it shocking that I live 15minutes walk from Malham and only managed to go there twice?
Various 7a/7a+ at Malham

Top three two new problems

A larum (7a) New crag loads more potiental, need to get motivated and it to stop raining.
Straight outta carrock (7a+) Mall Hill While on a short Ireland trip- name says it all.

Top three Five spankings
Grooved arete- how do I get so pumped climbing on jugs.
Heaven in your hands- 20 goes in three minutes does work on grit.
The anchor- you shouldn't go climbing 3 days after invasive surgery.
Running the GNR- going out like a dog with two dicks, running a PB on the first mile, followed by breaking it again in the second mile followed by crawling over the line in 1.32
Being pulled over by the police for having no insurance, becasue i failed to open my post and the kind chaps at Direct Line not autorenewing my insurance- spent a lovely morning in court and came out £360 less well off and 6 points on my license. I now drive 15mph in a 40 zone.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Stubbs on January 02, 2013, 12:24:19 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

- Porth Ysgo Crack - Great day out with a good crowd, this feels terrifying when you've only been climbing on plastic!
- Crazy Legs Crome, Whitehouses - Felt nice to get back on this after a couple of years and feel stronger.
- Mr Whippy, Pill Box - Really great problem, excellent moves on nice holds.


Top three boulder probs, abroad

Only one trip away this year to font at Easter.

- Etrave a Sucre, Beauvais - Was very happy to climb something so 'fonty' after only climbing on plastic in London.  Got really close on first session and took the decision to return and was lucky enough to finish it off.
- La Baleine, Petit Bois - One of my top five all time favourites, the move from the lip the the good flatty is so satisfying.
- La Mare Droite, Rocher Cannon - Great climbing, bit scary at the top! Didn't know where to start so traversed in from the left...


Top three new route/prob put up

I climbed a nice V0 on Raasay in my approach shoes when I was cycle touring in the Hebrides, some great potential on those islands.

Top Spankings
Jason's Roof - 5 sessions, fell off one hand move from the end due to a wet hold, it has been raining since.
The Flakes, Earl - Always feels like the living end!
Parisella's - When the cave is not in a giving mood it can make you feel like the worst climber in the world!
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: GCW on January 02, 2013, 12:50:38 pm
I've hardly done any climbing this year, probably 3 outings onto rock.  Here goes....

Top three boulder probs, UK
Big Green, Brimham
Murky Rib SDS, Brimham
Lancashire PotHot, Brownstones; re-sent after the loss of the flake

Err, that's it.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Gritlad on January 02, 2013, 01:10:14 pm
Top Three five boulder problems

Rock Atrocity - Felt very good to do this, a breakthrough
Hurricane - Such a cool move, feels great
Bus Stop - First Jerrys roof tick, done with the original cut loose too (Still easier but the photo of Jerry on NWB!)
Deliverance - Was very chuffed to get this, took a while too!
Brad Pitt/ The Storm - Can't decide out of the two, thinking the storm just edges it (No really bad pun intended)

Top 3 boulder problems put up

The prow/ Arete's in Tegness quarries (The pinnacle quarry), both 7A, both very cool, both at a good height, gutted no one other than 3 people (?) have been up there and tried them! (Better than Glass Slipper at Froggatt and very nearby!
Crack the Ripper SDS on the Gelli Boulder in North Wales. A cool stand up made better by a lock off to get the starting finger jam. Has probably been done before by a local but hey ho.
George Smiths boulder down and left of the Mallory Boulder. I think George climbed most of the lines here if not all but linking the traverse into the up lines was great and this block should see some attention.

Top 3 Spankings

Rock Atrocity Wobbly Block start - Compared to how quick RA went, this is a siege, was falling off the move to the pocket on Boxing day, a move that previously felt fine. Abit weird. Hopefully back in Feb time with better conditions...
Snatch - Split my fingers open so many times now trying to hold that jug, another few mm over and its in the bag. Still keen though.
Jerrys Roof - Just find this so hard. Haven't spent much time on it due to ego and pride but it just feels desperate. Too long!

A great year really!
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Wil on January 02, 2013, 01:12:08 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
I've done nothing of note in 2012 it seems. In fact, I can think of hardly any decent problems I did.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
The Rasp - harder than I expected! North West Arete at Gimmer, great jug hauling. Then The Pillar at Diabaig, which fortunately dried out just in time to tick before heading home. I didn't get on harder routes that I should have this year, but I've found it hard to get my onsighting head back on in the last 2 years. That's the key goal next year. Probably the best route of the year climbing wise was following Get Some In at St Govan's, totally stunning climbing and a great piece of climbing by my partner. I had a harder time than I should have following it, but what a route!

Top three sport routes UK
I did surprisingly little sport this year, but despite that I really felt it was finally my coming of age as a sport climber.
Top tick of the year was Another Toadside Attraction, I really enjoyed the climbing on this and it came together satisfyingly quickly.
I also finally did Sardine, in fairness this year was the first time I'd deliberately put the effort in. It was frustrating at first, but quickly got to the stage where I can lap it. I don't think it is really a route of the year for me, but it's always been something I regarded as a milestone.
Encore! Magnifique! at the Gap was a good tick to get, good climbing and it was only this year that I could do the crux consistently. This was a top tick as much for confirming that I'm stronger and better at redpointing than I used to be.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Don Quixote on the Marmolada. Biggest rock route I've ever done and we did it in good time, to adventure.
Messner Route on the 2nd Sella Tower - Brilliant route with tricky route finding and some good runouts, with the climbing hard enough to make you think.
Fiebra de Sur at Encantadas in Chorro. Great climbing and one I was pleased to onsight.

Top Spanking's
I didn't persist with many things long enough to get a real spanking. I had a terrible day trying A Little Extra at the Tor, resulting in a finger injury. I don't know how I didn't get it done? I also still haven't done Kudos, despite appearing to be very close.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: JK on January 02, 2013, 02:19:53 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Ripple Effect/Green Nose - Brimham
Ben's Groove stand - Caley
Aurora - Roova

Top three two boulder probs, abroad
Le Fantastique - Ailefriode
A good 6a+ at Targassone (can’t remember the name)

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
None unless you count easy soloing (highball bouldering) at Slipstones and Goldborough Carr in which case some great new ones.

Top three sport routes UK
Crusin for a Bruisin - Yew Cogar
Hardy Annual - Kilnsey
Harry Tutle Heating Engineer, Giggleswick G Spot. A good boulder problem with a couple of bolts. Probably a poor sport route.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
A handful of steady sport routes at a crag near Bardonecchia on the French / Italian border. Can't remember names of routes or the crag.

Top three new route/prob put up
N/A

Top Spanking's
Lay-by-Arete - Slipstones. How many sessions now, is this actually impossible?
Dreamland - Almscliffe. Shit problem anyway ;)
West side story- Burbage. I'm starting to see a pattern on the type of boulder problems I can’t do.
Waite - Caley. After years of looking and not getting far, realised the proper way to do it and close but not quite.
The Maximum - Malham. One go up, couldn't do the hard moves, or even the easy section at the top. Didn't bother for a second look. Punter.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: shark on January 02, 2013, 03:19:56 pm
Top Spanking's
I didn't persist with many things long enough to get a real spanking. I had a terrible day trying A Little Extra at the Tor, resulting in a finger injury. I don't know how I didn't get it done? I also still haven't done Kudos, despite appearing to be very close.

<cough> Lyme Cryme ? just in case you'd forgotten  ;)
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Bonjoy on January 02, 2013, 04:43:08 pm

Waite - Caley. After years of looking and not getting far, realised the proper way to do it...
Do tell. I hope it doesn't involve being 6 foot tall. Have never managed to pull on.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Wil on January 02, 2013, 05:11:45 pm
Top Spanking's
I didn't persist with many things long enough to get a real spanking. I had a terrible day trying A Little Extra at the Tor, resulting in a finger injury. I don't know how I didn't get it done? I also still haven't done Kudos, despite appearing to be very close.

<cough> Lyme Cryme ? just in case you'd forgotten  ;)

Er, yes. I think sitting on *that* bolt is probably a spanking... I'll settle that score in the spring.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 02, 2013, 06:55:51 pm
Top boulder problem: Heaven in your hands, Brandrith.
Bagging such a classic line in quick time was great, but even better was going back the following weekend and throwing endless variation laps. One of the best problems in the WORLD.

Top semi-sport routes: Rainbow slab. Finally got round to climbing on this bit of rock (only my third day on slate ever), and it went perfectly. In a couple of hours I did Pull my Daisy, Poetry Pink, Cystitis by Proxy, Pete did Naked before the beast, and the ropes were never tested.

Top trad routes: Power of Lard, Snowpatch spire, Fingerberry jam, Pigeon feathers.
Classic granite face your fears and deal stuff, Ben got the '5.12' crux pitches, I got the old '5.11' workover. As usual, 5.12 meant E2 6b, 5.11 meant full on sustained E4/5. The 5.11 pitch on Fingers were the hardest pitch I led ll year, and poking my head round the little roof 20m up the big pitch on Lard will stay with me a while; 30m of 4-5" above and me with two cams left...

Top trad route: Seventh Rifle, North Howser tower.
Even nearly six months on this day is still a bit of a confusion of emotions, and from my state afterwards might better be classed as a top spanking. We didn't have enough food, we hadn't had enough rest, we climbed it for slightly strange reasons in light of moving goalposts, and it turned out to be 80% total choss. But there were some sublime moments, viewed objectively we put in a more than respectable performance, and it was probably the most satisfying summit of my life. Then made a good stab at killing myself on the descent, and emotions bubbled over...

Top spankings: Squamish
After my last trip here a few years back there were a few things I figured I could tidy up were I ever back in town: University Wall, Black Slabbath and Baba Hari Dass. Well it all went wrong on day 1 when I fluffed Perry's layback on the grand, and the rest of my performances were embarrassing. Next time I go on holiday I'll persuade my partner to let me rest more.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: willackers on January 02, 2013, 08:21:11 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Jason's Roof 8A - An absolutely brilliant problem! I thought I was going to piss up it when I saw the size of the holds but it took a bit of work in the end.  A unique piece of gritstone.
Heaven In Your Hands 7C+? - A stunning arete in beautiful surroundings. A pleasure to climb. Much easier than it looks.
Who Needs Readybrek 7C - Get your crimp on! I bloody love the Roaches, so much to do there, I can't wait to get back.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
L'Etrave 7B+ - Tried this a couple of years ago and failed. Mr Napier to the rescue this time with some crucial beta!, that plus me realising that you have to bone the fuck out of that rat crimp!
La Baleine 7a+ - Happy with the flash considering the conditions. Classic!
Big Jim 6C+! - Sandbag, scary, classic.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
The Great Flake E6 - Onsight solo. Nearly fluffed it at the crux, great fun.
Rainbow Bridge 7A+ - The start of my very long stag weekend, I was feeling the 3 litres of white lightning that I drank on the way down!

Top three sport routes UK
Empire of the Sun 7b - Managed to flash this on the last day of my 3 day stag do! Hard work after eating nothing but chemicals and alcohol for 3 days! Messy!

Top new prob put up
Coming Up For Air 8A? - Can't believe I bagged this! Believe it or not I was actually trying to climb this until Littlefair told me to try jumping. Absolutely made up!  ;D

Top Spanking's
The Ace 8B - Ridiculously frustrating. Can throw laps on the Joker once I'm warm, so close but yet so far. Gangle fluked it ;)
Curious Yellow 8A - Never 7C+, utterly desperate.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: willackers on January 02, 2013, 08:23:31 pm
.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Sasquatch on January 02, 2013, 09:02:57 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK Local   :)
Mr. Universe Sit - Ptarmigan Alaska, 12 year project
Abomination - Hatcher Pass Alaska, Tall and proud :)
Solitary Confinement - Another 12 year project that went down.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Eden - Joe's Valley USA - fastest 7C+, Proof of the power of training (sort of abroad as I had to fly 2500 miles) :)

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Only finished 1 roped climb outside this year..... 

Top three sport routes UK
See above

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
see above

Top three new route/prob put up
See first list.

Top Spanking's
Pivot Point Arete Project - Had all the moves figured out, then broke a hold.  Rediscovered new beta, then ran out of MOJO.  Need to get back to it.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: metal arms on January 03, 2013, 11:35:48 am
No bouldering at all this year.

Top three trad routes UK

The Needle - Gogarth.  We went to do Scavenger but there was a queue.  Nearly fell off the top of the second pitch when my feet sketched leaving me with only one point of contact, got my feet back on and finished it with a healthy amount of adrenaline!  Brilliant route. 

Kubla Khan - Slate.  Have wanted to do this for ages.  Fell off moving above the bolt on my first go, but nailed it second time.

42nd Street - Chee Tor.  Scared high up.  Placed all my little wires early on so had to improvise with the gear a bit at the top.  Really good (and safe if I stop thinking about the fear) climbing, on my favourite Peak crag.

Top three sport routes UK

The Bloods - Pen Trwyn.  First 7a+ (is it really this hard?).  Was surprised how quick it went.  Only got on it as Axle Attack was wet.

Supermassive Black Hole - Slate.  Great big fun route out of a great big hole in the ground.

Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation/Burning Skies - Portland.  Can't remember which of these was best but they were both really enjoyable routes with good fun climbing on a good bit of rock.  And I fell off one of them, which I rarely do.  It's normally a whimper and slump onto a bolt.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

I went to Squamish for three weeks in the summer so three choices isn't really enough but lets see...

The Grand Wall - Brilliant.  First attempt failed after the Split Pillar, as it was windy, cold and we were in shorts and t-shirts (it's important for man to have an excuse after being turned over!)  Second attempt went fine.  Climbed the Split Pillar in much better style, Miss Arms did a fine onsight of The Sword pitch, I managed Perrys Layback by the skin of my teeth, and we finished it up the last 4 pitches of the Black Dyke.  It was our only route aim for the holiday and we were absolutely madde up to get it done.

The Great Game - 4 pitches of pure pleasure.  Pitch 1 is big and long but never hard and well safe.  Pitch 2 is easy but with nice climbing.  Pitch 3 is a cool corner with a bit of a runout and pitch 4 is wild moves (for the grade) in awesome position in space.  So much fun.

St Vitus Dance - So much fun.  I really started enjoying crack climbing on this one, even though I'm rubbish at it.  One of the first routes we did there so it really set the tone in terms of quality.

Top Spanking's

Rutabaga - Squamish.  Fell off the very last move on the last day of the holiday!  Took a big one and scraped and bruised myself quite a lot.  At least I was trying!

Solid Gold - Pen Trwyn.  I was too weak to really give it my best and too scared to fall off.  After fannying about getting pumped I did eventually fall off a couple of times and dogged/gibbered my way to the top.

Ximenes - Boulder Ruckle.  Brilliant route, my head was all over the place and needed rescuing off the second pitch by Miss Arms.  Very humbling...
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: cheque on January 03, 2013, 12:58:04 pm
It's a shame you can't include stuff you didn't actually manage to do as most of the best things I've been on this year fall into that category.  :-[ A close-but-no-cigar list would be completely different for all but trad!

Top three boulder probs, UK

Chaste, 6B+, Chasecliffe. I went from not being able to move on this to doing laps on it over 4 (I think) sessions. First time I realised that with the psyche and determination to train specifically I could progress like this and consequently the first time I 'got' bouldering. An amazing problem in my opinion too.

Below-break traverse, 6C+, Minus 10. Another multi-session solo siege. First at the grade and first tick of anything with a proper poor crimp on it.

Unnamed 6C+, Minus 10. Third go, straight after doing the traverse.   

Top three four trad routes/soloes UK

Seal Hunt, E1 5b, Mowingword. Absolutely fucking awesome! Done on the last day of a very fulfilling trip.

Love Bug, E1 5b, Brimham. Dropping my small nuts meant I soloed the majority of it totally gripped while a distraught mother yelled hysterically trying to find the small child she feared had fallen to his death. Atmospheric.

Suicide Wall, HVS 5b, Cratcliffe/ Original Route, HVS 5a, High Tor. Did not disappoint!

Top three sport routes UK

Consenting Adults, 7a, Malham. Sailed up it on redpoint after totally flailing on the every previous go. Massive pride at my first tick at Malham and first 7.

Booze Cruise, 6b+, Colehill Quarry. Not a great route by any means but a really good-feeling post-work onsight on the longest day of the year.

The Leading Line, 6c, Horseshoe Quarry. An even worse route but a few cool moves and felt good to do it.

Top three routes abroad in the Red

Spirit Fingers, .11c, Drive-by Crag. Hardest onsight yet. Really tried fucking hard on this one, a total power-endurance pumper on first-joint 'plates'. "I guess in Yurp they shake their whole bodies out instead of just their arms"  :lol:

Fuzzy Undercling, .11b, Military Wall. 12 hours off the plane I flashed this stunner- a slopey boulder problem leads to steep jug-pulling with a (vital for the first day of the trip) hands-off kneebar. My Ameriwad partners thought I was ace for getting this first go when they didn't. This was before they got their endurance and burnt me off day after day.

Different Strokes, .11c, The Gallery. Open-handed sidepulls with some Staffs-style thrutching at the top. I believe this is the only sport route I've ever sent second go.

Top Spankings

Loads. Gold Rush in the Red and Dead Banana Crack at Stoney are particular stand outs as I flipped upside down taking big falls off them.   :slap:
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: slackline on January 03, 2013, 01:21:43 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Not really bouldered much this year.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Not really bouldered much this year.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Wuthering at Stanage
Big Crack at Froggatt
Original Route at Rivelin

Pleased with these as I decided to get my arse in gear and try more E2's this year, soft for the grade, but ain't that often the way when stepping up a notch.

Top three sport routes UK

Clipped bolts within these shores in a few places but nothing stands out.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Pisco (II/III) 5720m, Peru.
Pincitas (6a+ ***), Hatun Machay, Peru (bloody hard work at 4200m!)
Technocratas (6c ***) Sella, Espana. Wasn't too arsed about this route, but friend wanted to try red-pointing it, and rather than standing around belaying decided to have a go too, one rest on first top-rope, one rest on first go at leading it, then got up it by the skin of my teeth on the third go, first 6c.

Top three new route/prob put up

Not a pioneer.

Top Spanking's

I'm lazy and a) don't spend long enough on things I can't do to consider it a spanking  b) tend not to bother trying things I know are beyond me (but am starting to revise that, see above trad routes).
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: JohnM on January 03, 2013, 01:41:32 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Didn't really boulder in the UK this year.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Some stuff in Font up to 7B, don't remember the names.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
1.  Gathering Sun - Nesscliffe
2.  Daylight Robbery - Reecastle
3.  Troutdale Pinnacle - Borrowdale

Top three sport routes UK
1.  Dreamtime - Kilnsey
2.  Dead Calm - Kilnsey
3.  Complete Control - Kilnsey

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
1.  Golpe de Gas - Terradets
2.  Fiesta de los Biceps - Riglos
3.  La Esfinge - Peru

Top three new route/prob put up
None.

Top Spanking's
1.  Bal de Triceps - Margalef
2.  Some 7c thing in a slate quarry in the lakes
3.  This student chick I hooked up with - some fifty shades of grey shit I think.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: haydn jones on January 05, 2013, 02:28:22 am
Top three boulder probs, UK

The attitude inspector - south burbage (f7A)
Mermaid - North burbage (f7a)
Glass Hour - plantation (f7a)

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Graviton - La Roche aux Sabots (f7a)
pif paf - bas cuvier (f7a)
science friction - apremont (f5+)

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Nosferatu (E6 6b) - south burbage
Wee Doris (E4 5c) - stoney middleton
our farther (E4 6b) - stoney middleton

Top three sport routes UK

power of soul (Fr7b) - harpur hill quarry
victims of fashion (Fr7a+) - Battleship main
Jurassic shift (Fr7a) - Battleship main (bridging legs got more pumped than arms!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

fiesta de los biceps (fr7a) - Riglos
El Zulú Demente (fr7a+) - Riglos
Alberto Rabadá o Murciana (Fr6c) - Riglos

Top Spanking's

Got caught out abseiling off the Riglos tower. Winds wrapped the ropes and got them stuck, didn't get off the cliff till 6 in the mourning spent the entire night no head-torch or coat.

Kelly's Overhang (HVS 5b) - stanage high neb

Quietus (E2 5c) - stanage high neb
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Andy F on January 06, 2013, 07:04:17 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow). First time I've properly sieged a bloc. Could do the first move on the first day, took another 4 to top out (thanks to the power of psyche provided by an unrepentant man child).
Jack Daniels/Ain't no party (Pill Box). First time I'd broken the 7B+ barrier, 2 goes after the original.
Runs on Weasel (Little Font). Great compression moves.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Didn't get abroad. Unless you count Wales.

Top three trad routes/soloes Uk

Did one VS at Dunnerholme, not sure if it counts

Top three sport routes UK

Very poor year for this. Only did 3 routes, so it'll have to be them.

Flowers for the dead (Dinbren)
Mudjekeewis (Llanddulas Cave)
Sticky Fingers (Llanddulas Cave)

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

None

Top three new route/prob put up

None

Top Spanking's

Left Wall High (Cave of Justice). Why can I not do this? Stamina has disappeared, like the sun in a British 'summer'.
When Saturday Comes (Dinbren). It's only 7c FFS. Stupid errors.
Air Rage (Kilnsey). Feels nails for 7c. Surely 7c+.

Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Turboman on January 06, 2013, 09:02:43 pm
Not really my ‘Best of 2012’ more like my entire 2012.

Top three boulder probs, UK
West Side Story 7b+/c – I remember when I first moved to Sheffield years ago sieging this until my fingers bled, gave it up as impossible.  A 15 year break coupled with a nice cold morning saw it sent. Turns out it ain’t so bad after all.
eatswood Traverse 7b+
Few other bits and bobs but nothing quality.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Most of Red Circuit at Isatis. Can’t recall which were best but a beautiful sunny morning in the forest. Had the place to myself.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Traffic Jam  E5, Stoney – Tested the dodgy friend placement in the slot and yes it does blow out.
Calamity Crack  E4, Running Hill Pits – Took a repeat visit to nail this! Part 1 of the ‘Pete and Donnie do America’ training plan.
Bob Hope E4, Dovestones. – Part2. Great route but we opted to do ‘just one more’ route (some thrutchy E2 next to it) and encountered the single worst midge attack in history.  I was chocking on midge soup.  It did however allow me to discover the very best cure for midge bites…Benadryl (cream or pills or in my case both).  Amazing stuff!

Top three sport routes UK
Mecca 8b+ It dried properly for just one day in March … and I was ready.
Weed Killer Chimes 8b,  Another nemesis destroyed.
Frankie 7b+, Kilnsey – O/S. 

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
None

Top three new route/prob put up
None

Top three spankings
Dialetics 8a+ Tor.  Despite pissing all the moves skin and injuries ensured no tick. 
Seraphim 8b+++ Those aren’t even foot holds.
Mecca Extension 8c , was all going so well until some fat lad pulled of the perfectly good glued hold and some skinny lad said it ain’t going back on. Now I can’t even imagine my way across that traverse.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Duma on January 06, 2013, 09:04:33 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
West Side Story, Burbage. Needs no comment.
Western Eyes, Burbage. So pleased to have such a great problem as my first of the grade.
The Alliance, Burbage. Felt worth it's original E4 at the top!
Top three boulder probs, abroad
L'Etrave, JA Martin. A dirty crimp, but what a line!
Ou Are You?, Cuvier Rempart. Big, crux at top, but good landing - ace!
La Baleine, Petit Bois. Wanted to do this for years, seen pictures for so long, but always seemed to end up somewhere else. Didn't dissapoint.
Top three trad routes/soloes Uk
N/A
Top three sport routes UK
Ooo, I did some this year!
Rave Party, Cheddar. First time on a string for three years so pretty memorable, good position on the arete high in the gorge too.
Mescalito, Cheddar. The other route that day. Nothing special really, but second go felt good for something given 7c
Twangy Pearl, Portland. Failed miserably on this, but I've been on so few routes this year, and it was really good.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
N/A
Top three new route/prob put up
N/A
Top Spanking's
Mossatrocity, Padley Gorge. I think borking my wrist for over 6 months including stopping me climbing entirely for 3months counts as a pretty comprehensive spanking.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: tommytwotone on January 06, 2013, 09:28:18 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Adults Only, Stanage. And thanks to Slackers for the quality photo of me on it!
Red Baron, Shipley Glen. Came out of nowhere - could barely pull on, was going to sack it but one more go and I'd done it.
Barry Kingsize, Crookrise. On a day off in the week with only one other person around. Amazing place.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

One trip to Font thwarted by unseasonably high temps - high 20s in March meant not much tickage happened.

Top three trad routes/solos UK

Didn't do any routes whatsoever in 2012!

Top three sport routes UK

See above.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

And again...

Top three new route/prob put up

Nope...

Top Spankings

Big Jim, Petit Bois. Oh for an extra couple of inches of reach (or probably bravery to just jump it).
Demon Wall Roof continues to frustrate.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: TN080 on January 06, 2013, 10:19:05 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Tricky to pick three but these stand out…
Queen Kong Sitter 8A/+ – Mint! Been on the list for years and done just before I left the North.
Malc’s Arete 7A+!!! (7B+) – Worth the drive. Scotland trip was one of my favourite bouldering trips I’ve done.
Keen Roof 8B – Not the best problem of the year, but the best feeling when hitting the finish hold. Took 6 sessions but was worth it.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Only been to Font this year…
Sur Prise 7B+ , Font – wanted to do this for years.
Neverland 8A,  Font – weird but wonderful. Been a goal for years to climb 8A in Font.
Respire 7C+, Font – my style and the best style… compression, big moves, good holds, steep!

Top three sport routes UK
Anstey’s Rules!!
Tuppence Ha’penny 8b/+. – best route in UK?
Postman Pat 8a+ – cool line that cuts straight across the immense wall.
Empire of the Sun 7b– the best warm-up/down route ever!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Just one trip away to Frankenjura this year…
Misery 8a+, Jura – unusual climbing through a cool feature, basically bouldering on a rope.
Ekel 7c+– Jura, steep and fun. Unfinished business from years ago.
Hilti Syndrome 8a+, Jura – big moves on big holds, steep and managed to fag my way through the crux.

Top three new route/prob put up
Trailer Trash 7C+, St Bees – Psyched to get the FA if such a cool line in the North West
The end is Nigh 8A, Hartland – Amazing climbing, amazing feature.
Non- conformist 7C, Lucky Hole – Epic approach but worth it. Climbs kinda like Lou Ferrino but in an awesome setting.

Top Spanking's
Floating Points, Osho, and all moorland Granite problems. 
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on January 08, 2013, 01:04:22 pm
Hardly a vintage year in any respects but did a few things:

Top three boulder probs, UK
Brads Arete - The persistance of Abscence @ Stanton - Superb!
Glass Slipper @ Froggatt - Would be better if it topped out.
Marks Roof LH @ Gardoms - Good.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Didn't go to Font this year for the first time in about 12 years :(

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
N/A

Top two sport routes UK - (don't think I actually did any more than these!)
Sardine @ The Tor - Better than expected.
Yosemite Wall @ Malham - Just outstanding! Made even better as I flashed it.

Top three sport routes abroad
Heaven Can't Wait @ Alcalalli, Costa Blanca - First 7b onsight.
Cervezas y porros @ Echo Valley, Costa Blanca - Good route and first 7a+ flash of the trip.
Sulacco @ Pena Roja, Costa Blanca - Ace!

Top three new route/prob put up
N/A

Top Spanking's
Summer! Pretty much gave up climbing for a month...

Gotta add this due to the above :whistle:
Top indoor routes/problems

Some Murple @ The Works
Some Yellow @ The Works
Brown F7c (yea right!) @ The Works

Ok.... so the hardest thing I did this year was indoors. Shittest summer ever!

:D
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 08, 2013, 02:37:05 pm
2012 can go fuck itself as far as I'm concerned. I'm just glad it's over.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: leeroy on January 08, 2013, 04:40:15 pm
Top five boulder probs, UK
1. The Pride, Churnet - Loads of pads, loads of big holds.
2. Candy Kaned, Squirrels - enjoyable/slopey limestone, whats going on.
3. Charlotte Rampling, Gardoms - luckily met steve at the crag who was keen, lots of pads, still some scares high up.
4. Domes low, Rowtor - Really unique solution.
5. Brad Pit, Stanage - Has to go in I guess, dried it with my hat on the day.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
1. Super Prestat, Cuvier - In a session with one pad, techy and high, loved working it out.
2. Big Jim, Petit Bois - One day in Font during the summer, was utterley roasting, might be the best 6 in the world.
3. Pancras assis, Mont Pivot - Only good thing done on recent trip, but what a good thing.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
1. Bloodrush. Shining Clough - Are there better lines on grit than this?
2. End of the Affair, Curbar - Dont think i'll ever want to climb anything as much as i wanted to climb this.
3. Simbas Pride, Burbage South - Perfect gritstone feature, and the kind of last move dreams/nightmares are made of.

Top three sport routes UK
1. Call of Nature, The Tor - Ok route, personally significant.
2. Little Plum, Stoney - Again, pretty mediocre pitch, but has one classic move.
3. Honorary Buoux, Beeston - What an odd place, great route though.

Top three routes abroad
1. Madre Salvage, Desplomilandia - Stunning route, didn't think id do it, just keep moving.
2. Vague A'Lame, The Tarn - again, no hard moves, keep climbing.
3. Hasta Luego Luca, Loja - Like a rat up some drainpipes.

Top three new route/prob put up
1. Chariots of Ire, Ashop - Quality prow, get up there (but wait till we've done the rest...)
2. By the By, Curbar - The slabby arete to the right of walk on by, proved easier than thought.
3. Float like a Butterfly - To the right of Chariots of Ire, very odd beta and another classic line.

Top Spanking's
1. Octopus, The Tarn - Invested skin and time into this, sums up why I don't like sport, fell off easy moves after crux.
2. The sea is a brown paper bag, Chee - Frustratingly hard with lots of places to fall off.
3. Flatworld, Baslow - Its done now, but my word what a siege.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Gus on January 08, 2013, 04:42:58 pm
Brilliant, been looking forward to your 2012"best of" Nathan! Nice work!
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: i_a_coops on January 09, 2013, 11:35:58 am
Top three boulder probs, UK
Not done anything very good

Top three boulder probs, abroad

-Marie Rose on a flying visit with no skin, no guide and no pads.
-The Board, Kyrgyzstan: perfect.
-Shepherd's Hut Boulder, Kyrgyzstan: Wow.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

-The Mirror Route, Kyrgyzstan. 40 pitches up to 7b+ on trad gear, 10 days, so much suffering, so damn epic. 2nd free ascent we think.
-Superposition de 2 movements vibratoire 7b, Ariege: Bolted granite is amazing, amazing steepness to to a flared chimney.
-Puce, Ariege: Holdless granite slab at 'only' 7a, still think it's my best onsight performance to date.

Top three new route/prob put up
-Dreaming Spires, Kyrgyzstan. 26 pitches up to well protected 7a on gear, amazing rock + line, very proud of this. (less proud of the name)
-Sport Climbing Pansy, Kyrgyzstan: cleaned it with a toothbrush, 7A+ with a drop knee toehook. Proud of the name.
-Droit de Seigneur, Ariege: A really gneiss 7c. A link up, but only because the original routes pussied out of one of the best bits of rock at Appy!

Top Spankings
-Climbing on NW slate without a guidebook. Tried an E5 thinking it was a sport route, nearly pissed myself on runout, backed off. Then I tried an arete because it looked well bolted, later found out this was New Slatesman and unsurprisingly had my arse well and truly spanked.
-Having diarrhoea off the side of a portaledge. And pissing myself while jumaring.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Bonjoy on January 09, 2013, 03:56:04 pm
No trips away, barely climbed outside the Peak, next to no sport climbing, not much trad and the weather… But on the other hand the DC operation was a success and I can once again use hand jams and slopers! Had some great days out and got even more obsessed with random developing.

Top five Boulder probs, UK:
 -California Screaming, Ramshaw – One of the best 7bs on grit, no doubt.
 -Mc Nab, Lord’s Seat – Superb crux move. Always a good day up here.
 -Pixie’s Tits SS, Fairy’s Chest – Minted peas.
 -Winsome, Wimberry – Felt grades harder than the days other tick Stateside. Desperate tight boot front pointing.
 -Gurning Lark Sunset, Gardom’s – Beat to the FA by bone-n-lank Feehally. Oddball esoterica of the finest vintage.

Top three boulder probs, abroad:N/A

Top three trad/soloes UK.Did precious little of it this year (apart from Stanage HVSs)
 -Waggy, Gardoms – More a highball, but did don a harness for the top out.
 -Grimoire, Cratcliffe – Another great highball, at my crag of the year for 2012
 -All the 89’ Stanage guide starred HVSs in a day – Hard to pick one. Brilliant day out. Has got me keen for another big day challenge this year.

Top three sport routes UK:Did a very few, but nothing stands out. Best of the bunch were on Moat Buttress.

Top three routes abroad (any genre). Didn’t leave the UK, but did go to Skye for the first time:
 -Cuillin/Sron na Ciche day – Strung together three classic pitches solo up Sron na Ciche, then did a large section of the ridge to drop down ridge on the other side of Coire Lagan. Glorious.

Top seven new routes/probs put up. Think I did more FAs than existing probs (excluding stuff I’ve done before) this year. Gibsonitis?:

 -Quercus, Cratcliffe  E4 6b – The only decent new route I did this year. Up on crag above Sparrow. Did on gear but would make a great highball with a few pads
 -Wind Shark, Filthy Q, 7b+ - I love this random little crag. Ravens, buzzards, hares, llamas. Shame nobody ever goes there. Maybe the name puts them off.
 -Invasion of the Cider Women direct, Cratcliffe, 7a/E4 – Cleaned on a rope and then had to wait weeks for it to dry. Worth the wait. There’s a proper good highball circuit to be had a Cratcliffe when conditions are good.
 -Crayon Angel, Ashop Edge, 7a – As above, involved a long frustrated wait and several walk ins. Kinder gold.
 -Black Rhino, Mystery Crag, 7a+ - Ten move 45 degree arete on hard black grit. Great find. Will be spilling the beans on this crag later in the year.
 -Inside Out SS, Mystery Crag, 7a – An outdoor replica of a good Foundry wave prob
 -House of the Holey, Cratcliffe, 7c – The finger ramp on hueco wall always intrigued me. Folk might think the feet in crack beta sounds naff, but trust me it makes sense when you try it and climbs really nicely. Kept me psyched through more log weather.

Top Spanking's:
 -Heaven in Your Hands, Brandrith – Should go back and try again but suspect I’d get the same ass kicking.
 -Stigmata low start, Upper Edale Rocks – Could lap the new climbing but kept repeatedly failing to do the topout I’d already done a few weeks prior.
 -Tier Drop X-plodes, Two Tier – Managed to get through the utterly hideous crux section only to fail on the much easier top roof, grrr.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: shurt on January 09, 2013, 06:14:35 pm
Not much of a regular here but really enjoyed reading about everyones achievements last year so here's mine - mostly UK based apart from three days in Font tagged onto a french holiday (in August!). Grades are from memory...

Top three boulder probs, UK:
- The Wave, Bonehill, v6/7? Really glad to get this done finally. Lost count of the sessions I've spent on it. Got some good beta from folk on here and a friendly local which helped in the end. Great airy moves at the top, powerful at the bottom, real quality.
 Stretch and Mantle, Roaches, 6c. Another siege put to bed. I really rate this problem, its got two really contrasting sections. There was a proper feel good team ascent as well including other fellow siege sufferers.
- Stallone Arete, Newstones, 6c+ Got this first go which was well pleasing. Best flash of the year on home turf.

Top three boulder probs, abroad (limited to Font):
- Cure-Dents, 91.1, 6a. Just a top quality problem.
- La Voie Michaut & La Moreau, Elephant, 6c and 6b+. Flashed both of these in the space of 5 minutes. I went home pretty soon after, I'd clearly peaked.
 
Top three trad/soloes UK:
- Traveller in Time, Ramshaw, E3. Ran up this but in a good way. Again varying sections which on such a short route is enjoyable.
- Stand and Deliver, Shorn Cliff, E1. Lots happened on this, my first trad route in over 6 months. Foot slippage, talking to myself, rain, some good kranks, quite a big run out, impending darkness etc. Thankfully nothing bad occurred. It was enjoyed retrospectively in the pub.
- Knights Move, Burbage North, HVS. I've soloed this a few times before but the crag was empty and the weather was perfect. Special.
- All Quiet on the Eastern Front, E1ish. Not done this before and thought it was ace.

Top three sport routes UK:
I've been bored of Cheddar (and limestone for that matter) this last year so have sacked it off.

Top three routes abroad (any genre): n/a

Top spankings:
- Tierdrop, Ramshaw, V5 or 6. Still can't get that top move.
- Charlies Overhang, Newstones, E1/2ish As N Grimes says in the guide "many are called but few are chosen". Needless to say I wasn't chosen even with about 4 spotters and 5 pads.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: JK on January 10, 2013, 03:21:18 pm

Waite - Caley. After years of looking and not getting far, realised the proper way to do it...
Do tell. I hope it doesn't involve being 6 foot tall. Have never managed to pull on.

I always assumed you started on the left and did some hard moves with poor feet to go up and right. This is what I had tried on and off then found out you start further right and 'just' reach up. It does involve being tall and/or some pads.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: SA Chris on January 10, 2013, 03:26:06 pm
on the other hand the DC operation was a success

You can get into trouble for punning on here.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Muenchener on January 10, 2013, 05:25:01 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
N/A - barely bouldered outdoors last year

Top three boulder probs, abroad
N/A

Top three trad routes/soloes UK Dolomites
Spigolo del Velo, Cima della Madonna: my first major alpine rock classic (Im Extremen Fels tick iirc)
Cecilia, Laston di Formin: top route & first alpine VI
Third Pillar, Tofana: some good bits, a lot of scruffy bits but my first proper big route (18 pitches). Mega day out.

Top three sport routes abroad
Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein: classic
Hard Rock Cafe, Nassereith. I can't begin to understand why my mates prefer Nassereith to the 'jura just because it's in the Alps and the bolts are closer together. It's mostly crap. But this was actually a very nice route and one of my few decent 6b onsights to date.
Smoke On The Water, Nassereith. Not as good as the previous route, but my first 6c onsight of Climbing Career 2.0

Top three new route/prob put up
N/A

Top Spankings
Direkte Sachsen Franken: first attempt at a proper 'jura grade VII: steep pocket pulling with spaced gear. Was v. nervous and rested on bolts, but pleased to be venturing into proper Frankenjura territory. Confidence builder for next time.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: ben on January 11, 2013, 02:37:01 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Rippled Wall at Bonehill. a lack of commitment resolved by bumping into some guy trying it who gave me a spot
Clinical Edge at Hartland. Snatched in a short hit, escaping the family for a hour.  Not sure its 7b but its a nice problem
Uluru at Clodgy - a slight nemesis, had done harder problems on the bloc before but couldn't touch this before

Top two boulder probs, abroad
l'oeuf at Petit Bois. Finally topped out on about the 5th session spread over a weeks trip. Really satisfying problem as initially couldn't even pull on and inched higher and higher each time. Claiming it as my first 7b based on the 7+8s guide, although I know elsewhere it's given 7a+
Quark at Sabot. Had failed on previous visits - flashed it this time.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Rainbow Bridge - doesn't count as I fell off pumped after the crux, but worth a mention as such awesome climbing
Didn't really do any trad of note

Top three sport routes UK
Was going to put Latest Craze at Ban-y-gor but just looked in my UKC logbook and apparently I did that in 2011  :(
Heil Hitler at Wintours - 2nd attempt

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
n/a

Top three new route/prob put up
n/a

Top Spanking's
The normal - most granite bouldering and any trad routes that require a steady head/runout..
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Durbs on January 11, 2013, 04:22:19 pm
Pure Punter-dom by all the above standard, but maybe one day I'll look back at this and laugh...

Top 3 Boulders UK
#7 The Trench 6b/+, Hartland Quay - Hardest outdoor route to date, even if it's only 6b.
27 Warm-up Slab, Bonhill Rocks - If only for MTFU'ing and climbing it properly as opposed to being the gibbering wreck I was last year
Entire day at Porthcawl - Glorious weather, lovely climbing, good curry after.

Top Boulder abroad
Didn't get much boulder action abroad this year
The "Golden oldie" 6a in Paklenica was fun.

Top spankings
Tough call... Joe's arete (again) or 3-pocket slab at the Roaches.

Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Muenchener on January 11, 2013, 09:50:30 pm
Top spankings
Tough call... Joe's arete (again)

Lovely problem, what does it get these days? Let's give the big boys a laugh by sharing beta for what used to be given UK 5c. I recall keeping the left hand low on the better of the sidepulls, feet really high and then lank with the right for the top. That was twenty years or more ago though, I shudder to imagine how polished it must be these days. And I bet Joe's method, whatever it was, didn't involve any lanking.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: r-man on January 11, 2013, 10:21:58 pm
That is a top problem. Possible to use the heel as well. And if you do it one handed your scout leader will give you a special badge.

simon using the heel of justice at the roaches (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pkl3ptG_Xs#ws)
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: petejh on January 11, 2013, 11:46:57 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Barely bouldered in 2012, so what I did, rather than best of:
Whisky Bitch, flash, surprised myself.
Jack Daniels Connection - ace basic moves, the best mid-grade prob on pill box?
Mr Whippy - elusive hold-catching action.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Nah

Top three trad routes/soloes Uk
Capital Punishment, Suicide Wall Ogwen. Brand new shoes made it good only in retrospect, ouch!
Great Wall, Craig y Forwyn. Oh naughty naughty! What a route, a 4 star one. This crag is a limestone Craig Bwylch y Moch and much much too special for one bitter old man to have his way.
Byzantium, Craig Doris. Lovely sunny escape to the Llyn.

Top three sport routes UK
Skip of Fools, The Diamond. Relentless and because it was my first at the grade. I can't think of a single bad route on The Diamond.
Obsession, Malham. First route at Malham ('cept for some warm up), felt nails and horrible in the sun (duh), and a grade easier and brilliant in the shade. Yep.
The Ashes, Kilnsey. First route at Kilnsey ('cept for some warm up). Total class, back from Ceuse with fitness, went quickly (for me) with a good battle fighting pump on the top.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Only one trip last year so:
Berlin, Ceuse. Class.
Vagabond d'Occident, Ceuse. Class. With blood blister bursting halfway making it my last go. After watching Jimmy big guns come within a whisker of the O/S and take the pisser woohoo.
Galaxy. Pissed the hard bits, found the easy bits pumpy and hard, typical brit fitness.

Top three new route/prob put up
100 Words for No Snow, M9+. Llanberis Slate. Best dry-tooling route I've climbed anywhere I think. Almost every type of move including cracks, face, very tenuous teetering, torques, steinpulls, and a dyno to catch a flatty with axes.
Imminent Departees, E7 6c, Craig y Forwyn. Took ages to work out a sequence for crux then took the big lob first lead go. Satisfying journey and cool line, first time I've headpointed something a bit hard / headgame.
Acrophobia (used to be call Three Day Event), 7b+/c, Craig Pen y Gogarth. Mind-blowingly good exposed crux 28m up a big wall above the sea. Grip factor!

Top Spanking's
My mixed proj on Clogwyn Ddu. 6 visits and counting. That's the whole of last winter in Wales and 1 day the winter previous.
Cleaning bird shit and loose rock off Acrophobia (it is ace!).
My Detritus Wall proj, 6 days of being hosed with liquid fishy shit by cormorants, too embarrassed by how I smelt to go into shop to buy food on way home despite always being starving.
Stripping out the old extension and installing the new Diamond handline extension.
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: jakes on January 13, 2013, 12:05:34 pm

Top five Boulder probs, UK:
  -Mc Nab, Lord’s Seat – Superb crux move. Always a good day up here.
 

Apart from when you walk up there and everything is dry, apart from the crux hold which is covered in ice...and so was the top of Whalebak... At least it's always a stonking view from up there!
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: Luke Owens on January 15, 2013, 11:00:37 am
Top three boulder probs, UK
The Pillar Finish - The Cave - V6
My First V6, probably nowhere near the best V6.

Red Sky Wall - Clogwyn Y Tarw - V4/5
Awesome crimpy problem with a cool finish.

Barrel Up - Hope Mnt. - V3
Proper sandbag, took ages. Great problem!

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Did a load of random great problems in a day in Font.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Colour Games - Dinbren - E1 5b
First E1, memorable run out at the top as I missed an obvious thread!

Scratch Arete - Trem - HVS
Great route and took me ages to commit to the move through the overlap(Punt)

Whim - World's End - HVS
First HVS

Top three sport routes UK

Technicolour Yawn - Dinbren - 7a+
First 7a+ and what a route, took awhile and a fair few redpoints with duff beta. Once beta sorted it went in good style with no pump. A highlight of the year.

Hot Stuff - Dinbren - 7a
First 7a, this will stay with me forever after doubting I could climb the grade. Brilliant.

Quicksilver - Pen Trwyn - 7a
First route on the Orme incredible climb on perfect rock. Had to fight for it and it felt every bit 7a for me (Some say 6c+) either way it has got me psyched for the Orme!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

La Reine Des Pommes - Ceuse - 7a
First climbing trip and a tick almost at my limit at the time. Played to by strengths and not a typical Ceuse route (It's slabby and crimpy!)

Colombine Panachee - Ceuse - 6b+ On-Sight
The whole climb went smoothly and I felt really flowing, great moves, good times!

Super Mario - Ceuse - 6b+

Damn thin slabby crux at the last bolt! A real stopper at the grade. Awesome.

Top three new route/prob put up

N/A

Top Spanking's

Right-Hand Route - Nesscliffe - V4
Utterly nails for the grade. . . Still need to go back and do it

Nursery Crimes - Empire Crag - 6c+
Got pumped into oblivion
Title: Re: Best of 2012
Post by: JackAus on January 31, 2013, 07:49:25 am
Top boulder probs, UK
Seams Simple Enough - Curbar. First 7a. Felt piss.
Attitude Inspector - Burbage South. Really fun. Should've got it 2nd go, M'dTFU and got it in less than 10.

Top boulder probs, abroad
La Travassis - Gorge aux Chat. Surprised myself flashing a 6c
Le Trou du Simon (red 4) - Cuvier. Standard Font topout, faffed for days.
Scarface - Cuvier Est. Really fun 5+/6a

Top trad routes/soloes Uk
Got on the DWS...
Camel Filter - Swanage. Only 6a+ I think but hands down the funnest climb I've ever done.
Troubled Waters - Swanage

Top sport routes UK
Only did a handful of piss easy stuff.

Top Spanking's
Too many.
Horny Lil Devil - Lulworth. Spat me off the same move so many times.
Smash - Sabot. Millimetres away from latching it.
Early Doors - Curbar. The same stupid moves after the slopers...
Ooo... Hitting the bottom after coming off Adrenachrome at Lulworth...
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