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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Wood FT on December 19, 2013, 03:05:08 pm

Title: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Wood FT on December 19, 2013, 03:05:08 pm
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Krank on December 19, 2013, 03:25:34 pm
is the BMC version the long one?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Wood FT on December 19, 2013, 03:28:59 pm
Yes it's all of the sat down talking bit.

There's a bit more (30-40mins) of footage with Simon and Gaskins in the shed on his woodie that will go up later
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Krank on December 19, 2013, 03:41:26 pm
ok, cheers Guy
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: dave on December 19, 2013, 03:50:48 pm
I hardly dare click the link.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Dave Flanagan on December 19, 2013, 03:55:22 pm
"doing the bouldering"
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Monolith on December 19, 2013, 04:04:48 pm
My palpitations might finally cease (N.B. I'm not kidding) and like Dave, I dare not click the link. Perhaps best saved for Christmas day as a present....
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Pantontino on December 19, 2013, 04:13:51 pm
I reckon there's lot of people 'clicking the link' as I can't get it to work beyond 0.22.

Never mind, something to look forward to tonight - can't wait!
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: leeroy on December 19, 2013, 04:33:35 pm
great job to all involved. seems a nice guy.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: willackers on December 19, 2013, 04:40:07 pm
Good work chaps!

Can't wait to watch this tonight, I bet the Mrs can't wait to watch it with me as well! ;)
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: GCW on December 19, 2013, 04:51:48 pm
I've watched 5 minutes and I can't stop smiling   :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Kingy on December 19, 2013, 05:58:57 pm
This is brilliant!!! Great insight into the man and the myths. I hope he keeps it up and gets back to his 2005 levels.  :bow: :2thumbsup: Congrats to all concerned in the production
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: mindfull on December 19, 2013, 06:44:07 pm
Looking at it now. Feels like the second coming.  :popcorn:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: fatdoc on December 19, 2013, 06:47:49 pm
30 mins in, need to go out... Amazingly humble.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: kelvin on December 19, 2013, 06:59:53 pm
Seems a right nice chap.

Good work lads.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: mindfull on December 19, 2013, 07:16:44 pm
:agree:

He is also very lean (even at the time of "stick it"). More build like an endurance athlete than the typical powerhouses of today (Woods, JWP, Shauna, ...).

Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on December 19, 2013, 07:55:27 pm
:agree:

He is also very lean (even at the time of "stick it"). More build like an endurance athlete than the typical powerhouses of today (Woods, JWP, Shauna, ...).

Looked to have a similar build to Steve Mac I thought
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: mindfull on December 19, 2013, 09:16:26 pm
True, though Ste Mac might be a little be bulkier. Amazing how much power and tension is in these relatively small muscles. :punk:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: mindfull on December 19, 2013, 09:18:36 pm
Done looking. In short we had the myth, now most of us learn to know a very nice person. Really liked it a lot!!
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Doylo on December 19, 2013, 09:29:24 pm
Effort fellas. That was well interesting! Feel  like training now  :strongbench:!
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: tomtom on December 19, 2013, 09:51:20 pm
Is there a link on this thread to the film that I can't see? (on tapatalk..)
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: thekettle on December 19, 2013, 09:53:20 pm
A great interview UKB, thank you  :beer2:

And an injury-free climbing career, that's got to be his greatest feat!
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Muenchener on December 19, 2013, 10:10:54 pm
Excellent interview, and he comes across as such a nice bloke.

Wads all round.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Doylo on December 19, 2013, 10:21:27 pm
A great interview UKB, thank you  :beer2:

And an injury-free climbing career, that's got to be his greatest feat!

That is pretty incredible
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shurt on December 19, 2013, 11:14:33 pm
What a lovely man. Really enjoyed that.

When he was talking about Brandenburg Gate I just thought noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo when he described how close he got. I didn't realise he's got that close.

Nice one to all involved. Simon even managed to keep an audibly straight face (I was expecting a cough or something) when John talked about doing Austrian Oak!

What I would say to all the doubters about his ascents is - haters go home.... Johnny G lives.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: SA Chris on December 19, 2013, 11:18:07 pm
Is there a link on this thread to the film that I can't see? (on tapatalk..)

There's an embedded link in first post. Might have not shown up before. I'm savouring consuming this vid whole on Saturday afternoon.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Beegsyboy on December 20, 2013, 12:08:55 am
What a legend!!

Has anyone else been on/repeated A Moment of Clarity at Thorn? How tall is it? Surely must be the hardest route on Grit, if it is a route?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: r-man on December 20, 2013, 12:11:37 am
Great!

Shark, one thing I was curious about - you asked him about some of his most memorable days and he said there were a few, then began by describing doing that Austrian traverse in 30min. You then switched topic - did John at any point mention his other highlights?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on December 20, 2013, 12:13:56 am
Great!

Shark, one thing I curious about - you asked him about some of his most memorable days and he said there were a few, then began by describing doing that Austrian traverse in 30min. You then switched topic - did John at any point mention his other highlights?

No. Replaying it I realised I cut him off a bit early there when he was probably going to expand on other things. My bad. Sorry.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: r-man on December 20, 2013, 12:22:46 am
Ah well, still a fine interview!
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on December 20, 2013, 12:25:33 am
Ah well, still a fine interview!

I'll email and ask him (along with anything else anyone want asking). 
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Monolith on December 20, 2013, 12:48:47 am
Shark - thank you very very much for this. I thoroughly enjoyed this.

Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: rossydoodle61 on December 20, 2013, 01:03:07 am
Brilliant. Thanks to all involved. A great interview and I really enjoyed watching it.

He comes across as a really humble, genuine guy. I particularly loved the comment about significant ascents - 'Font 8C, it's an old grade...'
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: rginns on December 20, 2013, 01:24:42 am
Brilliant watch!

Although it's now half 1 and I've got to be up in 4 hours...damn
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: dr_botnik on December 20, 2013, 01:41:32 am
Good job everyone! John comes off as a really nice bloke throughout, not at all as scary as he looks when he's really pulling! Great to see our questions answered, thanks Simon :thumbsup: p.s. my psych levels just hit an all time high :weakbench:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Muenchener on December 20, 2013, 07:24:09 am
that Austrian traverse

Absolutely typical JG by the way. There are many idyllic remote mountain crags in Austria. Dschungelbuch otoh is right next to  a working quarry - Innsbruck climbers in fact live in fear of it becoming part of the quarry.  About 500 metres from a busy autobahn. And right underneath the flight path for Innsbruck airport.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Grubes on December 20, 2013, 07:45:33 am
Thoroughly enjoyed that. Thanks Shark

Really like how he still climbing for himself. Climbing 8B and not claiming anything publicly. I guess he thinks 8B is not noteworthy any more
:2thumbsup:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: fatneck on December 20, 2013, 08:12:52 am
Amazing guys! Thank you very much  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Luke Owens on December 20, 2013, 08:43:06 am
Cheers guys, this is awesome! Such a nice guy. Psyched for some training now!  :bounce:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: rich d on December 20, 2013, 08:51:55 am
 :bow:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Pantontino on December 20, 2013, 09:31:55 am
Well done Shark, a must-see piece.

Did you discuss getting hold of any of the unreleased footage that was mentioned?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on December 20, 2013, 10:16:24 am
Well done Shark, a must-see piece.

Did you discuss getting hold of any of the unreleased footage that was mentioned?

Thanks.

A couple of times. As I understand it, if it is anywhere, it is most likely in the loft of the parents of the person who took it who's now moved away so we'll have to wait on when he next comes home before he's able to dig around to find out whether it's still there. 
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Doylo on December 20, 2013, 10:26:33 am
It made me realise most of his hard stuff was quite similar/specific and his training was tailored for this style. Big moves on tiny holds with extreme tension. Add the dedication and focus and you get some pretty hard stuff. Interesting that he chose Hubble over Liquid Ambar. Up yours to the cynics
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Dave Flanagan on December 20, 2013, 10:45:25 am
Well done Shark, a must-see piece.

Did you discuss getting hold of any of the unreleased footage that was mentioned?

Thanks.

A couple of times. As I understand it, if it is anywhere, it is most likely in the loft of the parents of the person who took it who's now moved away so we'll have to wait on when he next comes home before he's able to dig around to find out whether it's still there.

Would be really keen to see the footage of Darkness Before The Dawn, it's an amazing line up a really impressive boulder, it was a historic first ascent and for a few years it was the hardest problem in Ireland...
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shurt on December 20, 2013, 10:56:32 am
What I would say to all the doubters about his ascents is - haters go home.... Johnny G lives.

Oops drunken posting!

Well done Mr Shark for an excellent interview. Both John and Ben both have seemed really relaxed in both interviews so you must be doing something right.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Wood FT on December 20, 2013, 11:06:56 am
What I would say to all the doubters about his ascents is - haters go home.... Johnny G lives.

Oops drunken posting!

Well done Mr Shark for an excellent interview. Both John and Ben both have seemed really relaxed in both interviews so you must be doing something right.

(http://www.drugaware.co.za/pics/rohypnol01.jpg)
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Monolith on December 20, 2013, 11:12:14 am
Danny Cattell's text response upon finding this video went live should be framed. He'll stop shivering in the corner when the board footage goes up.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on December 20, 2013, 11:18:55 am
Danny Cattell's text response upon finding this video went live should be framed.

What was it ?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Monolith on December 20, 2013, 12:29:06 pm
"Oh God!Oh God!Thanks.Oh God"

It's fair to describe this as extreme anxious excitement I reckon.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: fried on December 20, 2013, 06:08:57 pm
Thanks for taking the time to do this. Fantastic.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Schnell on December 20, 2013, 06:58:57 pm
Wonderful stuff, really enjoyed it. Thanks guys. Great to see what a pleasant and happy sort he seems, I'd presumed he was all joyless dedication.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: douglas on December 20, 2013, 07:03:25 pm
Really interesting to watch. Thanks john.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: rainbow on December 20, 2013, 09:21:02 pm
Brilliant stuff indeed. So humble, and its great to see him look back and still enjoy those past moments. Well done to all involved. Who's next?  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: dav on December 20, 2013, 10:30:35 pm
How about Ian Vickers?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Bubba on December 20, 2013, 10:52:22 pm
John Gill?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: tomtom on December 20, 2013, 11:01:36 pm

John Gill?

Good call.

While we're on the Johns, how about Mr Dunne?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: sxrxg on December 20, 2013, 11:32:38 pm
Malc?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Greg C on December 21, 2013, 11:07:32 am
What a legend!!

Has anyone else been on/repeated A Moment of Clarity at Thorn? How tall is it? Surely must be the hardest route on Grit, if it is a route?

Yes other people have been on it, but no one else has climbed MOC up at Thorn and it is most definitely not a boulder problem - its at least 9m (from the grounds lowest point).

(http://www.lakesbloc.com/guides/P1010030.JPG)
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Nigel on December 21, 2013, 11:23:22 am
Although with modern eyes and if you've tried it on a rope it could arguably be approached as a highball - the hard bit looks to finish at 5m or so and is definitely above a flat landing. Top section looks at a guess to be UK 6a sort of ground, so after practice should be a formality (?!). That said, my definition of "modern eyes" would include 20 pads and loads of spotters. Suspect John had 2 pads max unless he was stashing them at crag. Might be interested to ab this over Xmas Greg, just to see what script is....you may recall that I wanted to ab it that time I went on my own to clean top of ROTF in the mist, but I was too scared! Got overcome, its spooky up there on your own, no-one gonna hear you scream.  John doing MOC on his own must have been terrifying!
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: andy popp on December 21, 2013, 11:43:51 am
Does it go up the flakes on the left side of the arete? Not such a great landing on that side.

Anyway,  it's certainly a thing of beauty.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Monolith on December 21, 2013, 12:22:45 pm
Got overcome, its spooky up there on your own, no-one gonna hear you scream.

That day at Hyning Wood (I think you said it was?) did something to you didn't it Nige!? I wish I could remember that ghost story.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Greg C on December 21, 2013, 03:18:48 pm
Does it go up the flakes on the left side of the arete? Not such a great landing on that side.

Anyway,  it's certainly a thing of beauty.

This is an extract from an email John sent me:
Quote
I climbed the aręte on its’ right i.e. the Last Temptation side (so more above the flatish and higher ground rather than the jumble of blocks).


I assume John is mixing his right and left up here, but essentially I interpret this as he climbed it on the left side (as viewed in that picture) above the "higher ground" left of the "jumble of blocks". I must say it does always look like you'd be over the blocks almost immediately, never mind after 5m. If you look carefully at that pic above, you can see the flat landing on the left runs out well before it meets the prow/arete and all the holds worth their salt are nearer to the arete.... of course I don't climb technical 8B so I may be way off the mark in my assessment of how you would climb it.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Nigel on December 21, 2013, 04:24:19 pm
That description doesn't make sense, Last Temptation is on the left! Although assuming a left/right mix-up it would fit with my "mental sequence" which I made up in my head, starting off the higher level of blocks but immediately swinging rightwards, so you're above the flat yet further away landing directly beneath the prow. This did look how it would maybe climb although obviously guessing an 8B grit sequence blind when you don't climb 8B and can't see any holds makes this a bit of a fool's game. Again though this doesn't fit with the description of the "flatish and higher ground"??? Will have to have a look if its dry.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: r-man on December 21, 2013, 04:40:18 pm
He said the same to me in an email - sounds like it's on the left:

Quote
a fall would land you on the flat ground on the Last Temptation side of the aręte
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Greg C on December 21, 2013, 05:50:56 pm
He said the same to me in an email - sounds like it's on the left:

Quote
a fall would land you on the flat ground on the Last Temptation side of the aręte

That makes little sense.... unless you were holding the crack with your LH (?), in which case I wouldn't have thought you could reach  the prow. If the crack was not used the direction in which the (available terrible) holds face suggest you would fall to the right and thus it seems unlikely you'd fall on the flat higher landing? My assumption from various 'viewings' was you would either use Nige's suggested sequence or you would come in from down to the right, i.e. just left of Dr Shippman's.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Eth on December 21, 2013, 08:02:58 pm
Thanks to all involved for putting this together. Not sure what I was expecting but he came across as a nice chap, quietly going about his business without any fuss. Looking forward to the shed session for some post-Christmas inspiration :strongbench:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Tom de Gay on December 21, 2013, 09:22:59 pm
That description doesn't make sense, Last Temptation is on the left!
Could he be confusing Last Temptation with Shipman's, rather than his left and right?


Anyway, great interview; thank you.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 21, 2013, 10:36:42 pm
Can we have Dunne next please and then Medwards and then Scotty and then Si O.

Correct me if the order is incorrect.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 21, 2013, 11:22:53 pm
Nigel, r-man. Greg C. The fact that none of that makes sense or adds up still doesn't make you think anything other than that you need to abb the line to work it out.

Amazing. I'm truly bemused.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: cofe on December 22, 2013, 09:46:27 am
Finally got round to watching it. Nice one Simon, thanks.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Fiend on December 22, 2013, 10:11:53 am
What does it make you think, Jasper?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Ru on December 22, 2013, 10:40:35 am
Interesting interview, thanks Simon and Guy. He doesn't look to have aged at all in the 6 years or so since I last met him.

Greg, from the description given of Shadowplay, do you think holds may have broken off? I can't remember much about it from a cursory look about 5 years ago, but I do remember seeing very few holds, even counting tiny ones. John talks about a "series" of sidepulls and layaways to get to a left hand layaway then better holds above. I seem to remember there being only a pair of bad start holds and a single, thin, left hand side pull about 4 feet above them, off which it looked like you had to do a massive move to a right hand matchbox edge (that wasn't very good) then jugs. There may be holds I'm not remembering.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Nigel on December 22, 2013, 10:55:26 am
Nigel, r-man. Greg C. The fact that none of that makes sense or adds up still doesn't make you think anything other than that you need to abb the line to work it out.

Amazing. I'm truly bemused.

Well if I'm going to have an opinion (and lets face it that's all it will ever be) one way or the other then I would like it to have some grounding. That's all. With these things if you have a preconceived opinion you can fit the facts to suit your story e.g. left / right mix up = liar! vs left / right mix-up = getting names of Last Temptation and Shipman's Surgery the wrong way round (thanks for pointing out Tom, this could well be the case). Pointing out the glaringly obvious if people are going to call out John's claim on this Thorn Crag thing then they are definitely in the realms of circumstantial evidence, as I know of absolutely no-one who has abbed it. Most haven't even been to Thorn Crag. Yes there is an air of mystery to it and John's description is certainly erroneous in some way, but I would say that's cause to have a look rather than shout him down.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Doylo on December 22, 2013, 10:57:28 am
Interesting interview, thanks Simon and Guy. He doesn't look to have aged at all in the 6 years or so since I last met him.

I guess bald people age slower than the rest of us.....
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: tomtom on December 22, 2013, 11:16:29 am
you mean the hairloss part of the ageing process is squeezed into a smaller period - that happens prematurely ;)
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Doylo on December 22, 2013, 12:54:27 pm
Well there's only wrinkles to age you when the hairs gone
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: SA Chris on December 22, 2013, 09:56:01 pm
Who's next?

Scott Blunk.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: andy popp on December 22, 2013, 10:10:07 pm
Who's next?

Scott Blunk.

Brilliant idea.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: tomtom on December 22, 2013, 10:36:19 pm
Who's next?

Scott Blunk.

Brilliant idea.

Lovely fella - had the pleasure of meeting him earlier in the year..
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Greg C on December 23, 2013, 07:56:49 am
Nigel, r-man. Greg C. The fact that none of that makes sense or adds up still doesn't make you think anything other than that you need to abb the line to work it out.

Amazing. I'm truly bemused.

Well if I'm going to have an opinion (and lets face it that's all it will ever be) one way or the other then I would like it to have some grounding. That's all. With these things if you have a preconceived opinion you can fit the facts to suit your story e.g. left / right mix up = liar! vs left / right mix-up = getting names of Last Temptation and Shipman's Surgery the wrong way round (thanks for pointing out Tom, this could well be the case). Pointing out the glaringly obvious if people are going to call out John's claim on this Thorn Crag thing then they are definitely in the realms of circumstantial evidence, as I know of absolutely no-one who has abbed it. Most haven't even been to Thorn Crag. Yes there is an air of mystery to it and John's description is certainly erroneous in some way, but I would say that's cause to have a look rather than shout him down.

I have abbed it but it was a while ago. My current view is than John climbed a hard line right of Last Temptation, but I'm of the view it wasn't what most people would call the prow. With his description relating to falling onto the higher ground below LT this is the only rational conclusion you can come too. I have asked him three or four times for details and each time he states what is written here and what he says in the interview. It would be nice to iron it out as its an incredible climb but I'm not sure what else can be done to ascertain the exact line - even re-abbing is only going to lead to more guess work.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on December 23, 2013, 08:56:05 am
I have abbed it but it was a while ago. My current view is than John climbed a hard line right of Last Temptation, but I'm of the view it wasn't what most people would call the prow. With his description relating to falling onto the higher ground below LT this is the only rational conclusion you can come too. I have asked him three or four times for details and each time he states what is written here and what he says in the interview. It would be nice to iron it out as its an incredible climb but I'm not sure what else can be done to ascertain the exact line - even re-abbing is only going to lead to more guess work.

Would it help if I asked whether he climbed the Prow direct ? along with the other questions
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 23, 2013, 09:18:12 am
Maybe just print the photo out and get him to draw a line on it?

Someone should do the sitter and call it 'Decade of obfuscation'.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Greg C on December 23, 2013, 09:26:48 am
I have abbed it but it was a while ago. My current view is than John climbed a hard line right of Last Temptation, but I'm of the view it wasn't what most people would call the prow. With his description relating to falling onto the higher ground below LT this is the only rational conclusion you can come too. I have asked him three or four times for details and each time he states what is written here and what he says in the interview. It would be nice to iron it out as its an incredible climb but I'm not sure what else can be done to ascertain the exact line - even re-abbing is only going to lead to more guess work.

Would it help if I asked whether he climbed the Prow direct ? along with the other questions

What Johnny said sounds like a good idea. Other than that I can't think of any other questions I haven't already asked him.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: tomtom on December 23, 2013, 10:27:33 am
Maybe just print the photo out and get him to draw a line on it?

Someone should do the sitter and call it 'Decade of obfuscation'.

or Sitting on the fence...
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Probes on December 23, 2013, 10:51:28 am
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1511362_704018609638554_1388559518_n.jpg

There's not a great deal of rock to the right of last temptation to get confused about if you ask me... And the jug on the arete at the same height of my mates head is where eases of..
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Stubbs on December 23, 2013, 10:59:34 am
It seems crazy that no wads have been and checked this out, it looks like there's grips and everything!
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Probes on December 23, 2013, 11:04:14 am
pretty sure jordans been up on it. everythings as well as grips, dunno what theyre waiting for..
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: SEDur on December 23, 2013, 11:17:53 am
A blessing.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: tomtom on December 23, 2013, 11:25:48 am
a funicular railway to avoid the 45min walk in? ;)
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: petejh on December 23, 2013, 12:46:28 pm
One of the stand-out passages for me in that interview was this:

Simon: There must have been a lot that happened to go from climbing french 7c to repeating Hubble (9a)?

Gaskins: Well there was 4 or 5 years between the two. I used the walls down at Ambleside, and augmented that with doing footless circuits on some holds I'd put up on the beam on the ceiling of my parent's garage..... Then I did stuff like Magnetic Fields, Gigantic at Wilton, Austrian Oak...

Simon: Yes.

(goes on to describe how he built his first board to train specifically for Hubble)
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: SA Chris on December 23, 2013, 12:50:08 pm
Who's next?

Scott Blunk.

Brilliant idea.

John Sherman's favourite spotter. I bet he has some great stories to tell.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: GCW on December 23, 2013, 12:50:08 pm
I was surprised he even mentioned Austrian Oak, it's a bit of a trade route nowadays.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: SA Chris on December 23, 2013, 12:51:12 pm
He read up on UKB beforehard, it was a deliberate wind up.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Eddies on December 23, 2013, 04:53:57 pm

One of the stand-out passages for me in that interview was this:

Simon: There must have been a lot that happened to go from climbing french 7c to repeating Hubble (9a)?

Gaskins: Well there was 4 or 5 years between the two. I used the walls down at Ambleside, and augmented that with doing footless circuits on some holds I'd put up on the beam on the ceiling of my parent's garage..... Then I did stuff like Magnetic Fields, Gigantic at Wilton, Austrian Oak...

Simon: Yes.


Good one!!
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Nemo on December 23, 2013, 06:45:16 pm
Shark / John – good effort taking the time to make the interview.

Shadowplay…  I think it’s time someone just said it.  In its current form this clearly hasn't been climbed and isn't going to be climbed.  Most of the "series of layaways and small edges" is pretty clearly no longer attached to the boulder.  Frankly this was obvious donkeys years ago when various very hard boulderers went to check it out and left grumbing about wasting petrol money for a non existent problem.  The rock quality isn't great and holds have fallen off the problems to both sides.  It's not like it's some weird 3D wall with loads of possibilities for obscure sequences.  It's a flat 45 degree overhanging wall.  (If I’m wrong and there really is some ridiculously obscure sequence that everyone’s missed, then fair enough.  But from the interview it didn’t sound like that - and barring further information I think it’s more than reasonable to assume that this problem no longer exists.)

Jasper - The description for the problem at Almscliff donkeys years ago was equally confusing.  At a guess he gave a lot less thought to describing what he'd climbed than doing the actual climbing.  Which is unfortunate (both for him and everyone else.) 

But at the risk of pointing out the obvious – THIS is the kind of thing that’s caused all the fuss.  What we've got is a number of problems where noone has the slightest clue what he actually climbed.  These very confusing descriptions along with the utter ludicrousness of Shadowplay has led to:
1.  ridiculously over the top hero worshipping nonsense assuming the guy has 5 arms, campuses between electrons and levitates up blank overhanging walls. 
2.  a bunch of people who just think he's talking cobblers. 

The truth is almost certainly a combination of the fact that he was a very good climber (but not the best climber the world has ever seen) who spent an awful lot of time on a relatively small number of things of a certain type, hold loss, and a bunch of hopelessly vague descriptions. 

Of his hardest things, Shadowplay is pretty obviously no longer a problem.  I seem to remember reading somewhere on here (can’t find it – maybe I was dreaming?) someone saying that Il Pirata had also shed a hold???  Perhaps that is still climbable, but it sounded like it is no longer in its original state (that was only ever likely to be of much interest to locals anyway for quality reasons).  That leaves Walk Away Sit, which sounds like it is very much climbable and may well even turn out to be fairly doable for 8C – if it was in Boulder (or perhaps even at Ravens Tor) I suspect this would have had a number of ascents.  And VNB – which I don’t think enough people have tried for anyone to have too much of a sensible opinion.  At a guess, VNB will turn out to be his hardest still existing climb.

I completely get it that he doesn’t like blowing his trumpet.  But without being clear about the details of ascents, what you always get in the climbing world is rumours and myths – both positive and negative – that just go on indefinitely.  Providing clarity is precisely the opposite of blowing your trumpet – it stops people yacking on about this stuff for ever,  stops controversies from getting out of hand, and stops other people blowing a thousand trumpets on your behalf.  (I don’t know anything about what happened in Germany, but I rather suspect that some of the rumours and myths in the UK had reached there by that time – and that without them that controversy would probably never have happened).

Obviously there is never going to be any “proof” of things that he climbed on his own – so no doubt there will continue to be a small number of sceptics.  But the biggest problem up till now that fuelled the scepticism is that Shadowplay in its current form is – literally – unbelievable.  Now we know he hasn’t seen the thing in over 8 years, so hopefully the fuel for the scepticism will fade.  If that had been taken out of the equation earlier, I suspect that most of the rumours / myths wouldn’t have got started in the first place.


Shark - if you're gonna get back in touch with John I think the obvious things to ask would be:
1.  Ask if he's prepared to go and check out Shadowplay - if he's into going running in the mountains it'd only take a few minutes to go and have a look.  I think clarity on that would put an end to most of the ridiculously overly positive and equally overly negative views.  And if he’s up for it, perhaps confirmation of whether there have been hold changes on Il Pirata too.

2.  Sounds like you’ve already asked for some of the other footage of him climbing – in particular though I think the footage of VNB would be great to see.  Going forward, I think this and Walk on By Sit are the two of his hardest things that people are likely to show most interest in.  The sequence on Walk On By Sit sounds like it's pretty obvious.  But think it would be really useful for people to see exactly what sequence he used on VNB.

3.  If he's prepared to take a look at some pictures of his other unrepeated problems and try and describe them a little more clearly I think it would be very helpful (maybe ask Carlisle or Greg or someone which ones are still unclear?)  I realise it's ages since he's done these things so it might be hard to remember right down to the RH thurrrr, LF thurrr type details.  But with things like MOC it shouldn't be hard to be clear about which side of the flippin arete was climbed!

I know that some people seem to think that all this enigmatic, vague, mythical stuff is very entertaining.  But after a decade, frankly it's wearing thin.  The guy hasn't moved to Antarctica or anything.  And at the moment he's clearly happy to answer questions - it seems to me that this is a good opportunity to actually get this stuff sorted.  It isn’t fair to future guidebook writers to leave this stuff in a ridiculously confused state – with them having to grovel and beg for tidbits of information in order to try to document things.  It would only take him a tiny amount of time to sort this stuff out and all the silly fuss would be over.  And if things were cleared up, I’m quite sure there’d be much more interest from uber wads in things like Walk Away Sit and VNB.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Fiend on December 23, 2013, 07:16:10 pm
It isn’t fair to future guidebook writers to leave this stuff in a ridiculously confused state – with them having to grovel and beg for tidbits of information in order to try to document things.
That is a fair point.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Monolith on December 23, 2013, 07:32:12 pm
Nemo - I appreciate it's a highly tenuous sentence that I'm about to write but with respect to Walkaway SS, a forum member on here a few years ago mentioned that him and his girlfriend had a session at that sector whilst bumping into John and his wife. He was seen to do both the sit and start moves independent on the day by said person. Again I appreciate the uselessness of what I've just said and a forum search would doubtless lead you to this account.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: r-man on December 23, 2013, 07:41:25 pm

Of his hardest things, Shadowplay is pretty obviously no longer a problem...That leaves Walk Away Sit, which sounds like it is very much climbable and may well even turn out to be fairly doable for 8C.


I understand where you are coming from, but even if you discount Shadowplay and Il Pirata, the legacy is still an impressive list of ascents, for many of which the line is quite clear. Nevermind the 8C's, repeats of the 8B+'s and trickier 8B's would be a great prize. I'm sure they'll happen sooner or later though.

Traci Lords sit, 8B+
Kaizen, At The Heart Of It All, 8B+ (I know these have been repeated by Sam Davenhall)
Pillbox Wall, 8B/+?
Endless Nameless, 8B - the Stanworth slab
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: c3po on December 23, 2013, 08:44:25 pm
I watched this then did weighted pull ups, now I'm inspired to loose weight.  I note people getting hung up on finer detail of some acents but it's just a peice of rock to mark your level of ability.  If JG is anything like me he cant remember what he did yestgerday let alone a few years ago, These probs may be important to other people but work and kids over take everything else and even seemingly important peices of 'rock' are forgotten to real life!

PS: I think Sam Davenhall pulled a hold off Ill Pirata in the last couple of years, I havent climbed for so long I havent seen it since.  I'v seen SD climb and he was bloody strong/heavy! 
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Probes on December 23, 2013, 08:54:54 pm
I can confirm that Sam very nearly pulled the starting flake off il pirate, he then glued/reinforced it back on. There are only 3 other holds (vaguely speaking) that make up the main problem these are very much still there and nearly always chalked  :blink:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 23, 2013, 09:58:34 pm
Nemo - I appreciate it's a highly tenuous sentence that I'm about to write but with respect to Walkaway SS, a forum member on here a few years ago mentioned that him and his girlfriend had a session at that sector whilst bumping into John and his wife. He was seen to do both the sit and start moves independent on the day by said person. Again I appreciate the uselessness of what I've just said and a forum search would doubtless lead you to this account.

I did all the moves on Hubble in a session Tom. Decent links too. Doesn't mean I was anywhere near doing the route cos I wasn't. Does this have any relevance? No, but this sort of straw clutching is depressing. As is most of this thread unfortunately.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Monolith on December 23, 2013, 10:09:11 pm
Aye I fully appreciate that Jasper. I was perpetuating exactly the same blah blah blah that's always gone on and shouldn't have done.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shurt on December 23, 2013, 10:10:54 pm
Nemo - I appreciate it's a highly tenuous sentence that I'm about to write but with respect to Walkaway SS, a forum member on here a few years ago mentioned that him and his girlfriend had a session at that sector whilst bumping into John and his wife. He was seen to do both the sit and start moves independent on the day by said person. Again I appreciate the uselessness of what I've just said and a forum search would doubtless lead you to this account.

I did all the moves on Hubble in a session Tom. Decent links too. Doesn't mean I was anywhere near doing the route cos I wasn't. Does this have any relevance? No, but this sort of straw clutching is depressing. As is most of this thread unfortunately.

tbh it only started going downhill at the end of the 4th page...
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Fiend on December 23, 2013, 10:47:52 pm
Come on Jasper say it clearly if you think he is a liar. Reasoning and doubtful ascents would be useful too.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 23, 2013, 11:02:40 pm
People who climb at the 8B+/8C level and who have actually done/tried these problems have a far better idea than me about this stuff Fiend. I wonder what they think? Oh....
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Nemo on December 23, 2013, 11:34:54 pm
Monolith - I hope you didn't misunderstand where I was coming from.  I believe he climbed everything he said he climbed.  Pantonino said he saw John pretty much doing Walk Away Sit on the other thread.   I just think that Shadowplay and probably one or two other things have almost certainly changed since that time. 

Quote
"I understand where you are coming from, but even if you discount Shadowplay and Il Pirata, the legacy is still an impressive list of ascents, for many of which the line is quite clear."  - rman
I entirely agree.  Again I hope you didn't misunderstand my post. 

Quote
"I note people getting hung up on finer detail of some acents but it's just a peice of rock to mark your level of ability."
I sort of want to agree - and it seems to be pretty much what John himself thinks.  But this stuff is what climbing news is made of.  And when it's easy to get clarity, I don't think asking for it is unreasonable.  Especially when people have to try to somehow document things.


Probes - good knowledge about Il Pirata.  That's all that's needed.  A bit more like that and I suspect most of the fuss would go away.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Fiend on December 24, 2013, 12:05:03 am
Jasper for someone who seems to be on the side of "asking for clarity", that is a pretty obfuscatious answer  :chair:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Moo on December 24, 2013, 12:12:04 am
I was really really hoping to be totally convinced by this interview that he hasn't lied about any of his climbing. Fingers crossed for the board session. 
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 24, 2013, 12:25:59 am
Jasper for someone who seems to be on the side of "asking for clarity", that is a pretty obfuscatious answer  :chair:

I give up.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Probes on December 24, 2013, 12:37:57 am
Jasper for someone who seems to be on the side of "asking for clarity", that is a pretty obfuscatious answer  :chair:

I give up.

Finally
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: SEDur on December 24, 2013, 12:59:32 am
Does anyone know anything about the 'line of bolts' his brother was trying, but he didn't think had been done?

Has anyone seen/tried it?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 24, 2013, 02:01:45 am
Jasper for someone who seems to be on the side of "asking for clarity", that is a pretty obfuscatious answer  :chair:

I give up.

Finally

What the fuck is that supposed to mean? Seriously, I realise I'm swimming against a tide of total blind idiocy here but what the fuck?

My comment was made because it's very easy to have a look at who posted the last positive karma and equate that to my previous post. I said "I give up" because I didn't think it would be necessary to point this obvious, simple shit out.

I expected better on here, it's a fucking shame. The forum is UK Bouldering not UK Alice in bastard Wonderland.

For the record, I'd love it if John proved the fact that he can climb hard problems by actually climbing a hard problem in front of someone or on film. He says he's climbing 8B at the moment on a regular basis (a lowly level for him) so that shouldn't be tricky. In fact, it should be a lot less tricky than managing to not climb anything hard ever in front of anybody despite being the best climber in the world for more than ten years.

I'm not calling anyone a liar, I just like seeing good climbers climb hard stuff, well. It tends to be all the evidence anyone needs to prove that someone is a good climber.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: r-man on December 24, 2013, 03:17:33 am
Let's not go down this road again. It was a crap thread the last time. I googled ukb and these are all sightings of John doing the business.

Quote from: CJD
I was lucky enough to climb and meet with Jon on many occasions.  I sessioned in Wales with him, which is where I discussed the Pil Box project with him.  We hit Sway On, Diesel Power and a couple of other places.  Very strong, but very project oriented.  He went home with Sway on and Diesel Power (sub 30 mins), and flashed SubSociety (8a).

I also had a session with him on his board.  I was absolutely shocked how strong he was.  I've climbed with a good handful of top UK wads, and also International wads, and he was in a different league.

He demonstrated the moves he had used to train for VNB - all harder that moves on the route, and did all.  The speed of movement, and the contact involved was mind blowing.

Not watched him on many of his test pieces, but wouldn't doubt them for a second.

Quote from: Turboman
I used to do a 7:30am start at the Tor and on several occasions saw Gaskins on the Brandenburg project. He seemed a quiet/private guy so we didn't engage him in conversation, just the odd 'hi'/nod of the head.  To drive from Lakes to Tor for a pre 7:30am start takes a big effort.  What stands out in my mind was that he would drag his misses along with him. She didn't climb and would scurry back to the car for a warm up between belaying (not looking too happy about it either).  He certainly appeared to be putting some effort in and taking some grief.


Quote from: Doylo
of the VNB picture
He might be in the toe hooks but strong fingered McClure couldn't even hang them.

Quote from: benpritch
ok, just to re-iterate - I saw John Gaskins climbing on Brandenburg Gate. He was doing all the moves, some links etc. He looked like he could do it. Brandenburg Gate makes Hubble look like a juggy warm up. I have seen a lot of good climbers climbing but i have never seen anything like that before.

So John has been seen doing hard climbing by several ukb regulars. That line of complaint is dead. We'd all have loved to have seen him climbing Violent New Breed or some of the 8C's, but hey.

Ben's sighting especially seems pretty impressive to me. John reckoned in the interview that each of the hard moves on Brandenburg Gate was like the crux of Hubble. Ben saw him doing all the moves and linking some of them. Has anyone else done/linked moves on this line? That would be interesting.

And what's the story with McClure trying Violent New Breed? Someone should ask him what he thought of the moves...

Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: ferret on December 24, 2013, 05:30:35 am
Quote
Ben saw him doing all the moves and linking some of them. Has anyone else done/linked moves on this line? That would be interesting.

Exactly, it seems like Ben wasn't the only one either. If people want to try something that has been witnessed, why don't they try some moves and links. Plus its only down the road from alot of climbers, no excuses like not driving 17 hours and hiking 9 days for a crap problem that doesn't exist etc etc.
Funnily enough the only long term proj he had at popular crag, a number of people saw him climbing on it.....
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: GCW on December 24, 2013, 07:23:33 am
Quote from: Jasper
I did all the moves on Hubble in a session Tom. Decent links too. Doesn't mean I was anywhere near doing the route cos I wasn't. Does this have any relevance? No, but this sort of straw clutching is depressing. As is most of this thread unfortunately.

This is an interesting point regarding specificity. The only proof that JG climbed his 8Cs is for him to either show a video or go back and repeat them on film (which he readily stated he can't at present). Him climbing every 8B in the UK on film, with an audience, proves only that:  that he can climb any 8b in the country. It has no impact on the question of 8C.

So basically, we'll never know. Choose to believe, or chose to doubt. It's up to you.  Endless wrangling on the net changes nothing.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: roddersm on December 24, 2013, 09:39:36 am
Great interview thanks for doing these. I personally have never understood the deal with this guy - how he could be so widely regarded to be one of the strongest climbers in Britain, and the world even, with so little footage or evidence of him climbing the things that he is credited with, compared to other top climbers climbing comparable or even lesser grades.

He came across as a really dedicated athlete and humble guy - I've no doubt he's a monster but I was surprised with the vagueness in some of his answers, particularly around topics were doubts or questions have been raised like Shadowplay or the Bock incident.... that doesn't mean he didn't do them but certainly did little to quell any doubts some may have.

Any chance Malcolm next? Rich Simpson would be a good one too.....
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Doylo on December 24, 2013, 10:11:07 am
Quote
Ben saw him doing all the moves and linking some of them. Has anyone else done/linked moves on this line? That would be interesting.

Exactly, it seems like Ben wasn't the only one either. If people want to try something that has been witnessed, why don't they try some moves and links. Plus its only down the road from alot of climbers, no excuses like not driving 17 hours and hiking 9 days for a crap problem that doesn't exist etc etc.
Funnily enough the only long term proj he had at popular crag, a number of people saw him climbing on it.....

And why didn't he claim it if he's such a fantasist. It was the biggest plum...
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 24, 2013, 10:53:06 am
Him climbing every 8B in the UK on film, with an audience, proves only that:  that he can climb any 8b in the country. It has no impact on the question of 8C.


It would be a fucking start though wouldn't it.

r-man, I have eyes so I've read those posts before. The only person who could read them and deduce that no further evidence was required is someone already desperate to believe.

Looked at from an objective point of view they mean very little. Climbing 8A quickly and doing some moves on something, oh ok I believe it all now.

I'm not a mistrusting sort of person. Check the Scotty threads and you'll see that originally I thought he should be given the benefit of the doubt. However, I trust the judgement of people who have actually climbed/tried these things more than a bunch of hearsay crap.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: GCW on December 24, 2013, 11:10:13 am
Him climbing every 8B in the UK on film, with an audience, proves only that:  that he can climb any 8b in the country. It has no impact on the question of 8C.


It would be a fucking start though wouldn't it.

Yes it would, but my point continues from your own.  I've seen Weak Sam do Kaizen in two overlapping sections and a video of him getting to the lip from the start.  I've not seen him do the whole thing in one, and people still say he's not done it and lied about it.  Do I believe him?  Yes.  Do I incontrovertibly know?  Of course not.

As I say, until definite proof comes out in the form of video, all we have is Mr Gaskin's word on what he's done.  I personally accept that at this point in time.  But the reverse view is equally valid.   

If he posts up an uncut video of him doing VNB, it still doesn't prove he did Shadowplay.  Or Walk Away sitter.  Or Gossip.  etc etc
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Fiend on December 24, 2013, 11:14:01 am
Jasper for someone who seems to be on the side of "asking for clarity", that is a pretty obfuscatious answer  :chair:
I give up.
Okay so Dan Varian (carlisle slapper) says, via karma that you are "bothering to try and convince people of the obvious", when you write:
Quote
I did all the moves on Hubble in a session Tom. Decent links too. Doesn't mean I was anywhere near doing the route cos I wasn't. Does this have any relevance? No, but this sort of straw clutching is depressing. As is most of this thread unfortunately.
Which at least implies that he thinks that doing large links on a project doesn't show you're capable of climbing as hard as that project implies. Further than that, I don't expect him to say clearly what he thinks of John's climbs / claims, because Dan V is a public high level boulderer with sponsors etc.

However, you keep (despite "giving up") posting a lot of negative comments without clearly expressing what you think. It's like expecting a defence without actually having set out a case for the prosecution "Well m'lud, I think the accused may or may not have done stuff and there may or may not be something fishy going on.....and yes I expect the accused to answer these claims right away!".

I don't care if you doubt him or not but if you are expecting honesty at least have the decency to be honest in what you are saying:

Quote from: Jaspersharpe actually saying what he means
I don't believe John Gaskins has done all the boulder problems he has claimed to have done, and has lied about his ascents. This is because although people have witnessed him climbing strongly, no-one has witnessed him climbing at a necessary level for his claimed ascents, he has shown too little evidence of those ascents, and some of his claimed problems take rock that clearly isn't and never was climbable. Of course he may have done these ascents but given the vagueness of the situation (claims, lines) I need more evidence to show that.

Feel free to copy and paste that if that's exactly what you mean....

Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: slackline on December 24, 2013, 11:21:58 am
@Fiend .....

I'm not calling anyone a liar, I just like seeing good climbers climb hard stuff, well. It tends to be all the evidence anyone needs to prove that someone is a good climber.



Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: GCW on December 24, 2013, 11:31:53 am
This is all just Schrödinger's cat.  These boulder problems and routes exist and don't exist.  Only once they are seen to be climbed will we know.

Until then, can we stop flogging a dead horse?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: slackline on December 24, 2013, 11:34:44 am
Not until someone has made an accusation of someone else being a nazi...

(http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/duty_calls.png)
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: GCW on December 24, 2013, 11:37:14 am
We need Houdini back.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: tomtom on December 24, 2013, 11:38:08 am
Not until someone has made an accusation of someone else being a nazi...

(http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/duty_calls.png)

I'm gonna be controversial and call Adolf Hitler a Nazi...

I love David Ike (in case that needs to be covered too)
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Fiend on December 24, 2013, 11:39:55 am
@ Slackline....

Yes, thank you, I did see that. I also saw his comments like:

this sort of straw clutching is depressing.
I'm swimming against a tide of total blind idiocy here
The forum is UK Bouldering not UK Alice in bastard Wonderland.


And about twice as much again of sarcasm amounting to the same thing.


GCW: Schrodinger's crimp!! The problem is, once you successfully pull on the crimp, it is now a climbed problem, and one will never know whether it was previously climbed or not...

Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: petejh on December 24, 2013, 12:33:21 pm
Perhaps we should have a little symbol in the profile bit on the left - like the 'instant message' symbol but to show that you either are or are not a believer in G od. A symbol of a little fishy perhaps...  :P

Trouble is 99% of us on here are unqualified to have an opinion on whether JG did Shadowplay, VNB, Walk Away ss or Il Pirata. Jasper and Fiend included. And if he did do even one of those then it obviously makes his claim of the others (including Hubble) much stronger. Like Nemo points out, it really doesn't take much effort for John to hook-up with a couple of strong wads to go and see if he can remember the moves on Shadowplay and one or two of the others. Likewise it doesn't take much effort on the part of said wads to take time out from their busy bouldering/filming schedules to contact John to arrange this. John hints in the interview that he'd like some of his hardest things to get a bit of attention, so all it requires is for a couple of people to show willing and make the effort to communicate and arrange to hook-up, and for John to reciprocate. Doesn't need to be filmed.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Nick B on December 24, 2013, 12:41:40 pm
it doesn't take much effort on the part of said wads to take time out from their busy bouldering/filming schedules to contact John to arrange this. John hints in the interview that he'd like some of his hardest things to get a bit of attention

Many of John's harder problems (At the heart of it all, Shadowplay etc...) have been looked at by quite a few people operating at a world class level. Admittedly never with John present, but you'd think with the experience these people have they'd be able to conceive a sequence or perhaps pull on to the holds.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: petejh on December 24, 2013, 12:43:58 pm
I know, which is why he needs to be there to show them what he did, or it all comes out in the wash as BS. It's the only way.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Doylo on December 24, 2013, 12:48:10 pm
Hasn't Greg seen him on At the Heart of it All? Gregoire?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: petejh on December 24, 2013, 01:02:03 pm
You've seen the grips on Shadowplay no?
http://www.hardclimbs.info/ascents/john-gaskins-shadowplay (http://www.hardclimbs.info/ascents/john-gaskins-shadowplay)
 :lol:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Probes on December 24, 2013, 01:03:17 pm
     
Jasper for someone who seems to be on the side of "asking for clarity", that is a pretty obfuscatious answer  :chair:

I give up.

Finally

What the fuck is that supposed to mean? Seriously, I realise I'm swimming against a tide of total blind idiocy here but what the fuck?

My comment was made because it's very easy to have a look at who posted the last positive karma and equate that to my previous post. I said "I give up" because I didn't think it would be necessary to point this obvious, simple shit out.

I expected better on here, it's a fucking shame. The forum is UK Bouldering not UK Alice in bastard Wonderland.

For the record, I'd love it if John proved the fact that he can climb hard problems by actually climbing a hard problem in front of someone or on film. He says he's climbing 8B at the moment on a regular basis (a lowly level for him) so that shouldn't be tricky. In fact, it should be a lot less tricky than managing to not climb anything hard ever in front of anybody despite being the best climber in the world for more than ten years.

I'm not calling anyone a liar, I just like seeing good climbers climb hard stuff, well. It tends to be all the evidence anyone needs to prove that someone is a good climber.

Agree with that Pete, would be good to see a few more folk around here. The God botherers alike. They'd then realise that these problems are actually conceivable by those with the ability and maybe they'd take the God worshipping with the pinch of salt it should. Its really not difficult if you feel you need to, to rationalise how these problems go, and how John would be capable of doing them. Seeing these problems tried and being around them... Ive never questioned there plausibility. I'm not going to try and do it for you, do it yourself you obviously need to, you might finally give up (thought you had already). A great interview and partial insight slowly being tainted. Shame. Thought Ukb was better than this.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: SA Chris on December 24, 2013, 02:16:17 pm
I just hope he doesn't read this. Will look like a bit of a smack in the face after agreeing to give the interview and share the session, when he's obviously not into the whole publicity thing.

Happy Christmas everybody.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Fiend on December 24, 2013, 02:31:38 pm
True.

Sorry for my role in prolonging any debate. I just wanted people to be open about their positions - something I want in any of these "controversies". I'm not that bothered about any controversy itself, well apart from still wanting to know more about the Si Connor thing, but that's only because he's completely demented.

At the end of the day it was a pretty enjoyable if unrevelatory interview, and I still like the picture of John on VNB, that looks ace.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Greg C on December 24, 2013, 02:39:31 pm
Seeing these problems tried and being around them... Ive never questioned there plausibility.

That's a very broad brush approach, however I agree with you on the whole. That said, I disagree regarding Shadowplay. On this I'm more inclined to agree with Nemo and possibly even Gaskins' own assertion (see interview); that it possibly isn't climbable anymore. Therein lies a big issue: it's Britain's hardest boulder problem and I think anyone with a passion for British bouldering would like to know categorically whether it still exists. If Gaskins ever had any interest in its place in history (which presumably he did as he reported it in the first place), I would have thought he would have liked to have laid the issue to rest and travelled the 17 miles from his house to the climb to check out whether it is still in the same state. For goodness sake, he agreed to an interview which is featured on three national climbing websites, including the BMC's. Surely he realised they (Simon) might have asked him about his hardest ascents and be angling for a few juicy insights? Whether it's easy for you or anyone else to think they can conceive of how a line is climbed, I don't think it's too much to ask for a first ascentionist to give a coherent description for what they've done.

You've asserted on here and Facebook that it is obvious where A Moment of Clarity goes. Well yes I know what you are saying, but are you suggesting that when it comes to documenting a climb we are to ignore the information given by the first ascentionist in preference of where the best line goes? Because to my mind what John said he did (stated over numerous emails) on that piece rock doesn't sound like the line you or I would probably conceive of from viewing it on either a rope or from the ground. Incidentally, I asked him to go up there with me when he first reported it (apparently 15 months after climbing it) as I have long been in awe of this climb and was thrilled at the prospect of seeing it climbed, even if just on a top rope. He said no because he wouldn't be able to do it anymore and that was that.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Greg C on December 24, 2013, 02:46:43 pm
I just hope he doesn't read this. Will look like a bit of a smack in the face after agreeing to give the interview and share the session, when he's obviously not into the whole publicity thing.

Happy Christmas everybody.

Obviously there's two main assertions going on in this thread, but from my own point of view I believe he's climbed everything he's claimed but have long been confused regarding the details of a small percentage of John's hard climbs. I really don't think there's any harm in outlining these holes in the collective knowledge if it's done in the right way. To be honest I was really hoping he was going to plug these gaps in the interview, alas.

Nevertheless, Happy Christmas to you too.  :)
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: gme on December 24, 2013, 02:56:33 pm
I personally think john did all the things he claims to have done. They are either really hard, have changed since he did them, most likely, or no one has really gone and put in the effort required to do them as they are pretty uninspiring problems in obscure places. They all look pretty shit to me.
There have been many instances of disbelief being down to people not trying. Careless torque being a classic example where many doubted Ron had done it and it was deemed 8B or more. Turns out people just didn't try it enough, now it's been done a few times the aura has gone. No doubt that many could have done it years ago. Brad pit is the same.
Smiley buttress?  Because Ben said it was living end no one bothered trying. Turns out to be 8A/B and I guess within reach of a few.
The only thing that I find wierd is john not remembering sequences on shadow play, it must have taken him a bit of time and effort and you would think he would remember every nuance.
Other than that I thought the interview was a bit boring, a verbal version of si Pantons article. But I don't know what everyone was expecting.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: kelvin on December 24, 2013, 03:21:15 pm

The only thing that I find wierd is john not remembering sequences on shadow play, it must have taken him a bit of time and effort and you would think he would remember every nuance.
.

I have a crap memory but I thought this odd - I'd want to sort it if I was him, especially as it's only down the road.

It matters not in the end. It looks a crappy piece of rock to my eye, unlike The Rail thing that got done this year and for me. I'd have thought you really gotta want to climb a line to be motivated to spend time on it. Shadowplay just looks rubbish. Spend days projecting that or head over to Engelberg and project the V15 that Ondra could only manage the moves on... seems an easy decision to me.

(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/375726_10151951498390581_1569200450_n.jpg)

If I've learnt anything from the interview, it's that his choice in boulders wasn't the best, even if his climbing was.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: dave on December 24, 2013, 04:06:46 pm
Choice of boulders not the best? He had some rock near him and found a few things he was psyched for, seems like a good choice for me. He saw enough quality to satisfy him. Not everyone wants to move to sheffield or colorado. i've got more respect for that than people who live in the UK and have to fly to switzerland to do anything hard.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: slackline on December 24, 2013, 04:22:00 pm
If I've learnt anything from the interview, it's that his choice in boulders wasn't the best, even if his climbing was.

Not everyone wants to or can dedicate themselves to traveling/living around the world solely climbing the hardest thing in the world, there other things in people's lives that get in the way, like companionship/partners, jobs (some people enjoy their work as well as climbing), family life etc. .  Thus convenience outweighs choice of boulders.

I.e. What dave said.

Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: kelvin on December 24, 2013, 04:39:48 pm
Everyone is different I guess. Seeing as I've got a two hour drive to the nearest piece of rock in any direction, the venue and crag matter to me immensely but it's been my choice to stay living here and take the hit in time and fuel to get outside.

My thoughts were more along the lines that a sponsored wad has the choice - problems like on Fuchs Stein or something like Shadowplay. I wouldn't have thought many would choose Kentmere.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: abarro81 on December 24, 2013, 04:47:46 pm
My thoughts were more along the lines that a sponsored wad has the choice - problems like on Fuchs Stein or something like Shadowplay.

Doubt Gaskins ever made enough from sponsors to live on did he?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: moose on December 24, 2013, 05:06:28 pm
He was sponsored by Boreal, that always struck me as more of a handicap than a boon to his climbing!
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Monolith on December 24, 2013, 05:11:57 pm
I think Kentmere is a beautiful spot and Shadowplay a great (if potentially damaged) line. Everything I'd look for in a hard bloc problem.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Probes on December 24, 2013, 05:46:20 pm
Seeing these problems tried and being around them... Ive never questioned there plausibility.

That's a very broad brush approach, however I agree with you on the whole. That said, I disagree regarding Shadowplay. On this I'm more inclined to agree with Nemo and possibly even Gaskins' own assertion (see interview); that it possibly isn't climbable anymore. Therein lies a big issue: it's Britain's hardest boulder problem and I think anyone with a passion for British bouldering would like to know categorically whether it still exists. If Gaskins ever had any interest in its place in history (which presumably he did as he reported it in the first place), I would have thought he would have liked to have laid the issue to rest and travelled the 17 miles from his house to the climb to check out whether it is still in the same state. For goodness sake, he agreed to an interview which is featured on three national climbing websites, including the BMC's. Surely he realised they (Simon) might have asked him about his hardest ascents and be angling for a few juicy insights? Whether it's easy for you or anyone else to think they can conceive of how a line is climbed, I don't think it's too much to ask for a first ascentionist to give a coherent description for what they've done.

You've asserted on here and Facebook that it is obvious where A Moment of Clarity goes. Well yes I know what you are saying, but are you suggesting that when it comes to documenting a climb we are to ignore the information given by the first ascentionist in preference of where the best line goes? Because to my mind what John said he did (stated over numerous emails) on that piece rock doesn't sound like the line you or I would probably conceive of from viewing it on either a rope or from the ground. Incidentally, I asked him to go up there with me when he first reported it (apparently 15 months after climbing it) as I have long been in awe of this climb and was thrilled at the prospect of seeing it climbed, even if just on a top rope. He said no because he wouldn't be able to do it anymore and that was that.

No slight on your need for clarity on Johns description dude, the photo was merely to indicate to those unfamiliar with the crag, that the line is very obvious when seem in scale against a person, and the adjacent routes. 
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: abarro81 on December 24, 2013, 05:54:19 pm
the photo was merely to indicate to those unfamiliar with the crag, that the line is very obvious when seem in scale against a person, and the adjacent routes.

As someone unfamiliar with the crag or problem, whilst the line may be very obvious, I've certainly not got the impression that theproblem is necessarily obvious.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: a dense loner on December 24, 2013, 05:57:23 pm
 :icon_beerchug: this threads amazing.
Gaskins is a controversial figure, no one can doubt that so what did people think would happen as soon as he was interviewed. Controversy.
I've heard people say he's really nice and humble, I've also heard him described as a very strange egocentric. Lots of people haven't believed a word of what he's said over the years while lots of people have believed every word. What else is the outcome gonna be? It can't be anything else!
He had a reputation among certain people before going to the Jura, when there he did zerberus quickly and gossip. When challenged by the first ascentionist, who is out of his mind btw, it turns out he did something else entirely. So now what goes thro the f.a's head?he already had seeds of doubt planted in his head from friends and then the guy describes a different problem and can't do the moves on the actual one. Which is an absolute path compared to gossip. This is all on the net already and is widely known.
Then there's every single hard boulder prob f.a in Britain, and hard repeats. Not one witness, not one that I know of nor it seems anyone else. This isn't to say he hasn't done these things but some people don't do the blind faith bit.
People seem to be talking about kaizen as some sort of crazy proof, kaizen hasn't been repeated. The big bloody starting hold fell off. A new version of kaizen has been done. Without going on about stuff like athoia and walk away let's cut to the chase with the big guns.
Shadowplay, the problem that didn't even have a name for a while. Touted as the hardest problem in the world by some, even now. Can't remember sequences? Let's see I build a model of Hubble on my board and train on it specifically. Il pirata I have a 1% success rate on a single move. For people that are unaware that means I've had at least 100 goes on this prob. I'll remember the sequence. Shadowplay is not these problems it's a league above, I'd remember.
As for moment of clarity, from reading what's already been wrote on this. No one has the faintest idea. Apt name I see.
Now people can take away what they want from the above. I know John was tired the day he met bock, it's already been stated. He's been seen by a couple of people doing a couple of moves. Wtf? Seriously? Is this what's supposed to sate the appetites of the masses? Now this doesn't matter to john, he doesn't climb for others. My opinion wouldn't matter either since when it comes down to it I work hard to be shit.
However, the stuff that's been claimed if looked at in the cold light of day would raise 2 eyebrows on anyone with eyes.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: abarro81 on December 24, 2013, 06:07:28 pm
I work hard to be shit.

Too right. Most would have caved and done some climbing after a few hours at the wall but you stick resolutely to drinking coffee and dishing out abuse. That's dedication. 
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: a dense loner on December 24, 2013, 06:32:38 pm
Stick to what you're good at I always say.
Let's not go off the rails too much here.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: fatdoc on December 24, 2013, 07:26:12 pm
I just hope he doesn't read this. Will look like a bit of a smack in the face after agreeing to give the interview and share the session, when he's obviously not into the whole publicity thing.

Happy Christmas everybody.

Best post of the year for me.. FFS people....  :wank: last time I used that little pic thing I got the bad karma I own... No doubt I'm about to get avoed... But this it frankly so fucking awful I don't give a shit... Merry fucking Christmas...
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: petejh on December 24, 2013, 07:40:02 pm
Let's not go off the rails too much here.

train colision (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpl4Cr3-Tm0#)
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: measles23 on December 24, 2013, 08:43:02 pm
Brilliant interview; didn't disappoint after the suspense of the build-up - thank you Shark and please please thank John from the many ukb'ers who are chuffed to fuck he agreed to it.

He reminded me much of Gill in Masters of Stone - someone naďf to the 'scene' doing very much his own thing in his own way and making that approach succeed.

So people who care about the historical record, need to feed sponsors, are considerate to hard-working guide-book writers, want to share beta or just want to spray a bit, record what they do.
Someone who climbs for himself (and out of a sense of duty to a higher being to maximise his given talent) and isn't motivated by those other factors, has done a piss poor job of proving what he's done..
Sounds like the world is in karma then - the lack of definitive knowledge about historically important ascents may piss many of us off, but John is under no obligation to satisfy our craving for knowledge.

Very happy to hear that his biggest regret was Brandenburg gate, not his failure to provide a clear record - I'm constantly impressed with the clarity and honesty of today's top climbers compared to the fog that was bouldering knowledge in the 80s and 90s, but I'm also glad that some mystery remains - the world would be a cold, clinical place if we knew everything..

Am I a believer? I'm going to try not to care, because JG doesn't care if we do - he's just out there solving problems, some of which might be quite hard, but we'll never know unless he thinks they're 8C or more!

Better get the turkey in the oven - Happy Christmas all!
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: rginns on December 24, 2013, 10:04:17 pm
+1, don't think it could have been put any better.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 24, 2013, 11:03:03 pm
I hate to say this kids, and I realise it's going to shatter a lot of your dreams, but Father Christmas isn't real. I can't prove this obviously (try proving that God doesn't/does exist....oh) but I'm pretty certain I'm right.

Nobody has ever seen him deliver presents in such amazing style (the whole world in a night!) and the times he has been seen giving presents to kids he's always seemed a poor imitation of what he's supposed be. Some trumped up prick with a false beard and bad breath.

Maybe some holds fell off

Merry Christmas.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: masonwoods101 on December 24, 2013, 11:08:23 pm
haven't you seen the Santa tracker? It's possible
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Probes on December 25, 2013, 12:52:57 am
Ive just seen santa, unfortunately no broken holds, but she had big tits.

Merry xmas  x
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Lund on December 26, 2013, 09:52:23 pm
There's not much sense on here sometimes.

People wishing other people would get cancer because they don't like a T-shirt, people banging on about not using the word "gay" in a non-gay-bashing context whilst "cunt" is fine, DFBWGC being canned by the owner of the site despite the users voting to keep it and the users not comprehending that the internet is not a fucking democracy, otherwise sensible people thinking that regular stretching and keeping your anus "soft" improves your climbing, people thinking another film with careless torque in is a good idea, people thinking peak grit is better than yorkshire grit, people searching for and others thinking they can deliver medical advice sans meeting on a forum, people believing things that nobody has seen.

There is no such thing as father christmas.  Fat men in bright red suits and fake beards trying to give your children gifts should not be trusted.

There is no such thing as God.  God is an emotional crutch invented by the human mind wrestling with the problem of finite lifespan and the intractable nature of that problem.

There is no such thing as a man who can climb 9a, run a marathon in 3hrs, solo an alpine route onsight in a record time, win 39 boxing matches.

It is not possible for an untrained individual to fell a horse with a single blow.

If the wind changes your FACE WILL NOT FREEZE IRREVERSIBLY IN THE SAME EXPRESSION FOREVER.

Watching too much television will not make you blind.

Jerkin' and jerkin' to your calendar will not make you blind, although it might make you bleed.

John Gaskin's is unproven to be a liar, but it seems likely that he's either forgetful, stupid, or a liar.  Until someone mans up and asks the right questions, all we have is an untested hypothesis.

Now... after I've managed to get all of that off my chest, why did shark not just man up and ask him outright: lots of people on the internet think you're a lying cock.  What do you say to that?

Apologies if I missed that question in this fucking puff piece.




Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on December 26, 2013, 10:08:25 pm
Now... after I've managed to get all of that off my chest, why did shark not just man up and ask him outright: lots of people on the internet think you're a lying cock.  What do you say to that?

Apologies if I missed that question in this fucking puff piece.


If its OK with you why don't you invite me to your house make me a cuppa tea while you are at it and then sit down and let me tell you you are a piece shit and that your life hasn't amounted to anything and BTW whilst Paxman  looks good on the telly what has he got to show for it in admissions of guilt? Sweet FA
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Lund on December 26, 2013, 10:12:10 pm
Now... after I've managed to get all of that off my chest, why did shark not just man up and ask him outright: lots of people on the internet think you're a lying cock.  What do you say to that?

Apologies if I missed that question in this fucking puff piece.


If its OK with you why don't you invite me to your house make me a cuppa tea while you are at it and then sit down and let me tell you you are a piece shit and that your life has amounted to anything and BTW whilst Paxman  looks good on the telly what has he got to show for it in admissions of guilt? Sweet FA

Then don't do an interview!  This is why paxman doesn't go round someone else's house shark.  Some people might say that you had a duty to ask.  You could have asked it nicely, "sorry old chap, hate to ask you this, but what about the fact that people don't believe you.  What shall we do about that then?  Your name is mud in some parts (e.g. yorkshire, dan varians' house, etc.), I think you're ace, nice tea by the way"

Look, I do get it.  I really do get why you didn't confront him.  I just think it's a fatal flaw in this interviewing being a great piece of climbing journalism and a truly worthwhile contribution.


Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on December 26, 2013, 10:25:31 pm
Then don't do an interview!  This is why paxman doesn't go round someone else's house shark.  Some people might say that you had a duty to ask.  You could have asked it nicely, "sorry old chap, hate to ask you this, but what about the fact that people don't believe you.  What shall we do about that then?  Your name is mud in some parts (e.g. yorkshire, dan varians' house, etc.), I think you're ace, nice tea by the way"

Look, I do get it.  I really do get why you didn't confront him.  I just think it's a fatal flaw in this interviewing being a great piece of climbing journalism and a truly worthwhile contribution.

A lot of people suggested JG was the one they wanted me to interview next and I did so with some effort. You are living in la-la land if you expected him to crumble with admissions of guilt or produce unseen footage from his back pocket. Confrontational interviews reveal nothing and only serve to flatter the interviewers ego. There are a few things that offer some insights there - much more is beyond reasonable expectation.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: petejh on December 26, 2013, 10:29:59 pm
Then don't do an interview!  This is why paxman doesn't go round someone else's house shark.  Some people might say that you had a duty to ask.  You could have asked it nicely, "sorry old chap, hate to ask you this, but what about the fact that people don't believe you.  What shall we do about that then?  Your name is mud in some parts (e.g. yorkshire, dan varians' house, etc.), I think you're ace, nice tea by the way"

Look, I do get it.  I really do get why you didn't confront him.  I just think it's a fatal flaw in this interviewing being a great piece of climbing journalism and a truly worthwhile contribution.

You could have just said that without the rest of the guff, which didn't add anything to your point.

I agree it would have been a better interview if Shark had asked John more directly about the doubts surrounding his hardest stuff, it was weak in that respect but still a brill effort in most other ways. And who's said it's a 'great piece of climbing journalism'? - it's obviously an amateur bloke with a handicam psyched to do something which a lot of people will find interesting. If someone's claiming it's the next 'Games Climbers Play' then that must have passed me by.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: remus on December 26, 2013, 10:52:29 pm
While it would have been nice if the G man had spilled all the beans and/or provided footage of everything he's ever done realistically this is just a couple of keen climbers getting together and talking about what they did a few years ago. It's understandable that people care about this stuff, but really lighten the fuck up. I would much rather we have this sort of light hearted interview and a little footage of the G man pulling on some dirt undercuts on his board rather than the sweet fuck all we will see if people continue to dole out shit because the interviewer didn't turn the thumb screws.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Lund on December 26, 2013, 11:08:28 pm
While it would have been nice if the G man had spilled all the beans and/or provided footage of everything he's ever done realistically this is just a couple of keen climbers getting together and talking about what they did a few years ago. It's understandable that people care about this stuff, but really lighten the fuck up. I would much rather we have this sort of light hearted interview and a little footage of the G man pulling on some dirt undercuts on his board rather than the sweet fuck all we will see if people continue to dole out shit because the interviewer didn't turn the thumb screws.

You are of course right.  This is all bullshit, and not worth any time whatsoever.  I was proud of not responding to the thread, but then Jasper got himself into a right old tizzy over it and it was catching.

Move along, nothing to see here.  How apt.

Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Doylo on December 26, 2013, 11:30:51 pm
There is no such thing as God.  God is an emotional crutch invented by the human mind wrestling with the problem of finite lifespan and the intractable nature of that problem.

You calling Gaskins a liar??
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: SEDur on December 27, 2013, 12:41:38 am
Every time I come back to this thread, it reminds me more and more of something that could be seen on the other channel.

To everyone who speaks dirt of this man, whom I expect many of you haven't met, maybe you should be man enough to track him down and question him directly.

In fact; if the existence and claims of JG are such a big problem for you, maybe you should be re-thinking your own life/climbing and what is actually important.

Nothing constructive is coming of this thread, and the forum monkeys speak with abandon, about claims and climbs they could but dream to be strong enough to complete.

I would like to put it to a vote, that this thread and the other JG video related thread are locked.

I think this is a good interview, and thank you Simon for your effort in making this happen.
It is just a shame that people like to make huge personal problems, out of such things as makes no difference to their actual lives.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: abarro81 on December 27, 2013, 01:04:00 am
I can't be arsed to dissect it at this hour, but that's a shit post if ever I saw one Sedur
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Greg C on December 27, 2013, 08:16:11 am
So people who care about the historical record, need to feed sponsors, are considerate to hard-working guide-book writers, want to share beta or just want to spray a bit, record what they do.
Someone who climbs for himself (and out of a sense of duty to a higher being to maximise his given talent) and isn't motivated by those other factors, has done a piss poor job of proving what he's done..
Sounds like the world is in karma then - the lack of definitive knowledge about historically important ascents may piss many of us off, but John is under no obligation to satisfy our craving for knowledge.


If someone, whoever they are, goes to the trouble of reporting they've done a first ascent, particularly a significant one, I think they are under some obligation to provide accurate details. We've heard your line before and it just doesn't wash. If you genuinely just  climb for yourself then don't tell people what you've climbed and there's no issue.

In the case of John, it's simply not true to say his only reason for climbing was for himself or as you put it, "out of a sense of duty to a higher being to maximize his given talent". Not meaning this as a slight but merely a statement of fact; but until about 2006 John was just as much a reporter or 'sprayer', as you put it, of his ascents as anyone else. As it has been stated on here, John was sponsored by at least two major brands for the majority of his climbing career, providing regular details and photos of his ascents.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: ianv on December 27, 2013, 10:16:29 am
This is now starting to look pretty ugly and smack of sour grapes on the part of certain people who seeming cannot accept that someone from outside of Sheffield might have been better than the schoolroom clique. It reminds me a bit of the shitstorm/whispering campaign over Partheon Shot and I am pretty much 100% sure that was done by the other John as I climbed with him a lot at that time and know how good he was. Way better than the vast majority of wannabees hanging round Sheffield at the time and making accusations.  I am beginning to have sympathy for Gaskins and understand why he might have chosen to keep out of the spotlight. No one knows the truth either way so making blind accusations of cheating is shit unless there is some proof to back them up. There does seem to be some proof that Gaskins was fairly strong though which at least gives some credibility to his claims.

I will admit to have been sceptical about some of the Gaskins stuff, especially the Thorn Crag route where doing a chop route, alone, in the middle of nowhere is beyond my comprehension. I never felt in a position to comment though as I was not on the scene when he was climbing well, I do remember him when he was less good though and he never seemed like a bullshitter.

Yes the interview skirted certain issues but Gaskins came over pretty well I thought and as Shark said, you cannot have expected him to go in guns blazing and said “Jasper thinks you are a liar, I want proof of all your ascents or they didn’t happen!”. He put himself out to get the interview, he is not Jeremy Paxman, he got the best he could in the circumstances, it cost him money and it was because people asked for it. There is no way he should be getting any flak for this. If people reckon they can do better, get on the phone, organise an interview ask the questions face to face and don’t just hide behind keyboard chucking unproven accusations about and slagging off someone who at least made an effort.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: webbo on December 27, 2013, 10:31:39 am
Shark.  Given this interview has seemingly sent one or two folk in to melt down,if you are planning to do any more interviews. Maybe you should ditch the physio sponsors and get sponsored by psychotherapist or two.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Nibile on December 27, 2013, 10:41:25 am
I want the video of the board session.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: dontfollowme on December 27, 2013, 11:19:16 am
I can't see the board footage being released now.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: tommytwotone on December 27, 2013, 11:26:51 am
I can't see anyone else signing up for an interview now!

Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: fatneck on December 27, 2013, 11:29:42 am
Which would be a crying shame...
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: rosmat on December 27, 2013, 11:59:49 am
Quote
There is no such thing as a man who can climb 9a, run a marathon in 3hrs, solo an alpine route onsight in a record time, win 39 boxing matches.

I've done this.

Quote
It is not possible for an untrained individual to fell a horse with a single blow.

Reckon I could do this.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: a dense loner on December 27, 2013, 12:00:05 pm
Ttt why can't you see anyone else signing up for an interview now? I can't remember one disparaging word about Ben's interview. If you put yourself in the public domain without proof of anything people will ask questions.

If John Dunne does an interview people will still ask questions because of no or scant proof of some things, half of this adds/added to his notoriety and selling potential to sponsors. Different people have different ways of going about things.

I thought the gaskins interview, like bens, was very good. It was just question and answer about a small part of a climbers life. Sharks not gone in there to play Columbo. Cheers shark for putting the effort in.

In other words it will be like everything else, if you interview people like Malcolm, Mccloud, Tyler, Bransby everyone will say that was great blah blah blah. If you interview people with a certain notoriety other people will say I don't believe and get shouted down by their peers.

But a big thank you to all those people who keep saying it doesn't matter if this was or was not done and telling people who care to get a life.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: petejh on December 27, 2013, 12:42:09 pm
But a big thank you to all those people who keep saying it doesn't matter if this was or was not done and telling people who care to get a life.

Agree with most of that except the last bit. Of course it 'matters'. Or why do you even know Gaskins' name?

To say it doesn't matter is simplistic bullshit. Godskins, or any other climbers, doesn't matter to me relative to lots of things. But if it doesn't matter, in the broadest sense of the word, whether he climbed VNB, Walk Away ss, Il Pirata, Moment of Clarity, Hubble, etc. then there would never have been an interview with John Gaskins because you and I would never have heard of him. I don't care about Gaskin's life as a teacher, christian, husband and father or whatever - I vaguely care that he claims to have been one of the first 8C climbers in the world, or that he 'might' be a fantasist, or something in-between. Because I'm also a climber.

And because I'm a climber I find stuff about climbing of some interest. If it doesn't matter to you then stop wasting your time on here. Go and discuss fishing or whatever does matter to you. No, climbing doesn't sit very highly on a scale of life's 'what matters', it's relative like just about everything else. If I never hear another word about Gaskins again I'm sure I'll continue happily but the same could be said of nearly anything.

Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on December 27, 2013, 12:49:47 pm
But a big thank you to all those people who keep saying it doesn't matter if this was or was not done and telling people who care to get a life.
Agree with most of that except the last bit. Of course it 'matters'. Or why do you even know Gaskins' name?

I haven't got any proof but I believe he's being sarcastic
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: petejh on December 27, 2013, 12:53:01 pm
 :wall:

I haven't got any proof...

Well I don't believe you then.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: a dense loner on December 27, 2013, 03:00:22 pm
Yes I was being sarcastic Pete. After finishing laughing and wondering where you were coming from with that I completely agree with everything you've said. It does matter.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: ian h on December 27, 2013, 11:22:10 pm
Nemo - I appreciate it's a highly tenuous sentence that I'm about to write but with respect to Walkaway SS, a forum member on here a few years ago mentioned that him and his girlfriend had a session at that sector whilst bumping into John and his wife. He was seen to do both the sit and start moves independent on the day by said person. Again I appreciate the uselessness of what I've just said and a forum search would doubtless lead you to this account.

That was me. I have not climbed in a good few years now, but still take an interest. Not many things stick in my mind so clearly as that day. He was friendly and engaging, offered his help on the adjacent problem I was doing, and was happy to work walk away ss with me present. He was seriously close to linking it, and I have zero doubt in my mind that he completed it.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on December 31, 2013, 06:39:52 pm
Great!

Shark, one thing I curious about - you asked him about some of his most memorable days and he said there were a few, then began by describing doing that Austrian traverse in 30min. You then switched topic - did John at any point mention his other highlights?

No. Replaying it I realised I cut him off a bit early there when he was probably going to expand on other things. My bad. Sorry.


Ah well, still a fine interview!

I'll email and ask him (along with anything else anyone want asking).


Shark - if you're gonna get back in touch with John I think the obvious things to ask would be:
1.  Ask if he's prepared to go and check out Shadowplay - if he's into going running in the mountains it'd only take a few minutes to go and have a look.  I think clarity on that would put an end to most of the ridiculously overly positive and equally overly negative views.  And if he’s up for it, perhaps confirmation of whether there have been hold changes on Il Pirata too.

2.  Sounds like you’ve already asked for some of the other footage of him climbing – in particular though I think the footage of VNB would be great to see.  Going forward, I think this and Walk on By Sit are the two of his hardest things that people are likely to show most interest in.  The sequence on Walk On By Sit sounds like it's pretty obvious.  But think it would be really useful for people to see exactly what sequence he used on VNB.

3.  If he's prepared to take a look at some pictures of his other unrepeated problems and try and describe them a little more clearly I think it would be very helpful (maybe ask Carlisle or Greg or someone which ones are still unclear?)  I realise it's ages since he's done these things so it might be hard to remember right down to the RH thurrrr, LF thurrr type details.  But with things like MOC it shouldn't be hard to be clear about which side of the flippin arete was climbed!


Guy has done the editing for the Shed Session (during which incidentally he makes it reasonably clear which side of the MOC arete he climbed) and I am emailing a copy to John for approval together with the above questions. If there any others that anyone want asking let me know..
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Mark Lloyd on January 16, 2014, 12:43:06 pm
It's all gone quiet ?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on January 16, 2014, 02:18:19 pm
It's all gone quiet ?

Hi Mark,

I chased John on Monday re answering a few further questions sent by email and approving the video and he said he would get back to me by the end of the week.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: AMorris on January 24, 2014, 08:30:27 pm
any news on when you will be sharing the cellar sessions video?
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on January 24, 2014, 08:33:21 pm
any news on when you will be sharing the cellar sessions video?

Sorry meant to chase him this week  :spank:

I'll text him now.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: AMorris on January 24, 2014, 08:50:26 pm
any news on when you will be sharing the cellar sessions video?

Sorry meant to chase him this week  :spank:

I'll text him now.

excellent cheers! Been looking forward to seeing G at work on his board
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: moose on January 24, 2014, 08:53:00 pm
One cannot chase John Gaskins: if you are worthy, he warps space to bring you within the G'ness.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 24, 2014, 09:12:32 pm
One cannot chase John Gaskins: if you are worthy, he warps space to bring you within the G'ness.

Most belief systems should be respected no matter how ridiculous or offensive they seem to those of sound mind.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Westboro_Baptist_Church

Actually no, they shouldn't.


Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: GCW on January 24, 2014, 10:25:39 pm
The G isnt a belief system, it's a way of life. Fools.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 24, 2014, 10:54:10 pm
Fools.

Word.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: PipeSmoke on January 25, 2014, 03:18:11 pm
Saw this interview  and got excited to watch it, however, it stops playing after about 20 seconds. Anybody else have  this problem? Or know how to fix? Might just be my old shitty laptop but really keen to watch this.
Ta
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on January 25, 2014, 06:00:06 pm
Saw this interview  and got excited to watch it, however, it stops playing after about 20 seconds. Anybody else have  this problem? Or know how to fix? Might just be my old shitty laptop but really keen to watch this.
Ta

Mine did that but if you give it a while to download it should be OK. You can enjoy my ugly mug while waiting or have a cuppa.  :devangel:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on June 06, 2019, 10:44:04 am
Few people have chased me up on this as the interview has been offline for a while whilst bmc has been transferring content to a new YouTube site and it’s now up again

https://youtu.be/RbZALxPdjZg
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Monolith on June 06, 2019, 07:45:35 pm
Bouldering's own Frost/Nixon. As long as you did Gaskins Problem ss Jonsky, I still love you.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shurt on June 06, 2019, 10:19:14 pm
Bouldering's own Frost/Nixon. As long as you did Gaskins Problem ss Jonsky, I still love you.

Still a cult hero.

Rich Simpson is not tragically.

 :worms:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Stewart on June 07, 2019, 09:10:17 am
Bouldering's own Frost/Nixon. As long as you did Gaskins Problem ss Jonsky, I still love you.

Still a cult hero.

Rich Simpson is not tragically.

 :worms:

However, Si O'Connor is so far down the rabbit hole that he has become one.

 :worms: :worms:
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: Fiend on June 07, 2019, 10:13:08 am
Li O'Crapper interview would be a fine thing indeed. Do it, shark.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: r-man on June 07, 2019, 11:31:10 am
Bouldering's own Frost/Nixon. As long as you did Gaskins Problem ss Jonsky, I still love you.

Still a cult hero.

Rich Simpson is not tragically.

 :worms:

That's not entirely true. Ok, the climbing claims were a weird episode in British climbing, but people still talk of his ability and how incredibly strong he was. A beast in the school room, by all accounts. So he's still a school room hero.
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: tomtom on June 07, 2019, 11:49:48 am
Bouldering's own Frost/Nixon. As long as you did Gaskins Problem ss Jonsky, I still love you.

I thought a little more Piers Morgan than frost... 😃
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shark on June 07, 2019, 02:49:59 pm
Quote from: tomtom link=topic=23407.msg585648#msg585648

I thought a little more Piers Morgan than frost... 😃

That hurt
Title: Re: John Gaskins interview - the video at last
Post by: shurt on June 22, 2019, 09:15:19 am
Bouldering's own Frost/Nixon. As long as you did Gaskins Problem ss Jonsky, I still love you.

Still a cult hero.

Rich Simpson is not tragically.

 :worms:

That's not entirely true. Ok, the climbing claims were a weird episode in British climbing, but people still talk of his ability and how incredibly strong he was. A beast in the school room, by all accounts. So he's still a school room hero.

Don't get me wrong I still love Doylos film about him training and going to Germany. The 7 one armers are undeniable and he was a total beast, no doubt.
It's just any credit he had in the bank has gone dispute that. He never really had any cult status to begin with...

And yes fuck me Si O'Connor, he's Living with the rabbits
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