UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Alex Smurthwaite on December 11, 2017, 09:32:29 pm
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Both sets down to £84, not sure how long for
https://moonclimbing.com/training-equipment/climbing-holds.html
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Hi Alex, what are they like, you used them much? They look a bit tweaky in pictures, but maybe that's not the case in reality? Thanks.
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Both sets down to £84, not sure how long for
https://moonclimbing.com/training-equipment/climbing-holds.html
How much were they before, any idea?
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I always liked these.
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Good holds. £150 previously
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Hi Alex, what are they like, you used them much? They look a bit tweaky in pictures, but maybe that's not the case in reality? Thanks.
They had a 8c+ circuit set with them at the School. I really liked those holds and the circuit. I'm tempted to get some but my board is probably a little too steep for most of the holds in the set.
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My boards 40 degrees and have holds from both sets on.
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Do you have a preference of holds from set A or B Alex?
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Do you have a preference of holds from set A or B Alex?
Sorry only just seen this, both sets are pretty equal
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Thanks.
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I have had only brief experience of these holds, but I thought the black and white sets were pretty unpleasant - like something on a Bendcrete wall from 10 years ago. Okay for occassional use but too nasty for multiple midweek sessions. The crimpy yellows are better but still mediocre compared to stuff by Core, Bleaustone, Stonesmith etc .
That said, I am admittedly not a fan of resin for frequent board boarding. I prefer wood holds despite their being rather "conditionsy" / humidity reliant - nicer on the skin and wood crimps are.... well.. crimpier.
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I have had only brief experience of these holds, but I thought the black and white sets were pretty unpleasant - like something on a Bendcrete wall from 10 years ago. Okay for occassional use but too nasty for multiple midweek sessions. The crimpy yellows are better but still mediocre compared to stuff by Core, Bleaustone, Stonesmith etc .
That said, I am admittedly not a fan of resin for frequent board boarding. I prefer wood holds despite their being rather "conditionsy" / humidity reliant - nicer on the skin and wood crimps are.... well.. crimpier.
The holds your referring to are the moonboard holds, the power grips are a completely separate product. There not used at all on the moonboard
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Having just built my board I came across these as a good way to get some holds on the board cheaply. Does anyone have any opinions if they would be suitable for a steep (55°) home board? Also does anyone have any opinions on if set A or set B is better? Set A look potentially slightly larger and therefore maybe better suited to the steepness?
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A few of the holds were on the 50-56 deg school board:
Set A big blocky pinch
5th one down on the LHS in Set B
Others were on the less steep boards (both the 28 and the Crag X board). If you used them all on a 55 steep board I think you'll end up with something fairly stern!
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Thanks for the feedback. In your opinion do you think the original school holds (yellow ones) would be more suitable for this angle?
Further to this has anyone used any of the crusher board hold sets on a board this steep? Really want some wood and these seem a well priced option (it is also nice to be able to support a local supplier if I can).
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The yellow school holds tend to be fairly small. Certainly usable if you're strong, but I think you'd struggle to set much below 7B on a 55 with them.
Havent used the crusher holds myself but they get very good reviews, if I was in the market it'd be my first port of call.
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Thanks for the feedback. In your opinion do you think the original school holds (yellow ones) would be more suitable for this angle?
Further to this has anyone used any of the crusher board hold sets on a board this steep? Really want some wood and these seem a well priced option (it is also nice to be able to support a local supplier if I can).
I think the Moon board set are probably best at the angle they were designed for (40 deg), although I think Doylo may have some on his board (edit: I've checked on Insta and he has)?
Drop Probes a message on here/FB and discuss your needs WRT Crusher, I'm sure he'll be able to sort you out.
It's tricky but ideally (IMO) you want a decent mix of size, brands and textures if you're going to go with resin. Likewise with wood I think a few from different manufacturers would make a board better.
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Thanks for the feedback. In your opinion do you think the original school holds (yellow ones) would be more suitable for this angle?
Further to this has anyone used any of the crusher board hold sets on a board this steep? Really want some wood and these seem a well priced option (it is also nice to be able to support a local supplier if I can).
I'd say the original yellow moon holds might be a tad harsh at that angle. I've got a similar angle board now and have just bought some bleaustone 30 degree crimps, they are excellent, nice texture and make you squeeze really hard to stay on. I've also got the white moon set and some of them are good, the rounder profile small holds, the angular ones are a bit nasty and the mono pockets don't work for me on a 50 board! I've also got the wooden crusher set, which I lied at first but now I'm not so sure, they are off the board currently and I might modify them a bit.