UKBouldering.com

places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: T_B on June 28, 2012, 08:55:49 am

Title: Stoney conditions report
Post by: T_B on June 28, 2012, 08:55:49 am
Well seeing as everything else is wet, I thought I'd post up that King of Ming at Stoney is a worthwhile 7b+ and for those who really want to scrape the barrel, the 3-star classic that is Little Plum was dry as well last night (well actually just the 1st pitch).
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Dicker on July 06, 2012, 01:06:36 pm
Things are getting desperate!
Anyone been to Stoney this week???
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: abarro81 on July 06, 2012, 01:07:34 pm
Not been, but I'd guess this amount of rain is enough to mean -10 and tom's will be screwed with runoff for tomorrow
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: slackline on July 06, 2012, 01:15:17 pm
nai was there yesterday and windy buttress was fine, garage buttress looked ok and the bays were variable, but as abarro81 says it'll all be fucked with this amount of rain (which doesn't look set to let up all weekend).

Stoney needn't be a 'desperate' last resort either though, there are actually some good routes there (although low-grade ones are polished).
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: nai on July 06, 2012, 01:43:06 pm
Minus Ten looked ok yesterday but I was doing routes so didn't actually touch it.
That was before 25mm and counting of rain though so take your chances.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: SamT on July 08, 2012, 10:48:53 pm

minus ten still looking ok tonight - someone bouldering there.  Lot of routes in the bays showing a bit of seepage now though - wee doris, Double Scotch etc.  thought I saw quite a bit of seepage at the base of scoop wall etc too.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 09, 2012, 08:18:32 am
I did Scoop wall on Thursday and it was all dry - drier than a couple of weeks back in fact. Friday's rain may have changed that, but even so it shouldn't last long. Crag of choice at the mo!
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Dicker on December 29, 2012, 09:52:44 pm
Anyone been in last couple of days - REALLY just want to climb outside!
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: mark20 on December 29, 2012, 10:14:04 pm
Minus Ten was piss wet on Thursday. Given the rain since then I can't imagine being any better now either.
Garage Buttress looked dry though
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Seb on February 17, 2013, 05:18:56 pm
Minus 10 dried out yet any one know?
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: fatboySlimfast on February 17, 2013, 05:44:09 pm
walked past minus ten walking dog last night , pretty unclimable but drying, very patchy. might be better after this bit of sun though.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: rich d on February 17, 2013, 07:51:01 pm
walked past minus ten walking dog last night , pretty unclimable but drying, very patchy. might be better climbing on grit in this bit of sun though.
there fixed that or you
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: J_duds on February 23, 2013, 06:44:05 pm
Minus 10 Breaks had damp patches, but most crimps and pockets were good. Some crimps were squidgy. Overall mostly good today.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Dicker on March 03, 2013, 10:09:46 am
Does anyone know if minus ten is all dry now?
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Seb on March 03, 2013, 06:13:24 pm
It was last time I was there, last weekend I think and its not really rained since then so it should be.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Gritlad on March 06, 2013, 11:04:38 pm
Does anyone know what state Toms Cave (Hannibal in particular) and Minus Ten will be in tomorrow evening?
Cheers
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: JayJ on March 14, 2013, 06:51:27 pm
Minus Ten was all dry today
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: kingholmesy on March 16, 2013, 10:15:02 pm
Big starting undercut on Tom's Original seeping, but everything else in Tom's Roof dry.  Minus Ten all dry today.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: mark20 on April 13, 2013, 05:05:12 pm
Garage Buttress was a bit greasy last night, but perfect today after a bit of sun.
Minus Ten is all dry.
Didn't go up myself, but 205Chris said he climbed in Tom's Roof, so I'm guessing it's all dry.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: 205Chris on April 13, 2013, 05:15:46 pm
Didn't go up myself, but 205Chris said he climbed in Tom's Roof, so I'm guessing it's all dry.

There's a tiny bit of damp on the undercuts but it shouldn't stop you climbing anything there.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: mark20 on June 14, 2013, 10:39:58 pm
Minus Ten bone dry and good conditions this evening. All the routes looked dry too
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: SamT on August 13, 2013, 08:04:08 am
Last Tuesday much of stoney was seeping.  Has it all dried out now? Thinking of windy ledge in particular?
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: masonwoods101 on August 13, 2013, 08:34:26 am
All looked good Saturday so probably fine now man....
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: SamT on August 13, 2013, 10:32:12 am

Cheers -  :2thumbsup:

However - looks like big rain heading in from NW now..    :wall:
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: masonwoods101 on August 13, 2013, 01:44:01 pm
Just go bouldering... Hahahaha
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 01, 2013, 11:22:28 pm
Anyone been recently?
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: fatboySlimfast on November 02, 2013, 08:51:42 am
drove past last night, windy ledge seeping,carlswark soaked. theres a lot of water flowing down the dale. i would think minus ten will be dam at best. presently its not raining but heavy and not windy.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: James Malloch on November 02, 2013, 03:40:06 pm
Minus 10 was in great nick today, from Megatron to a meter or two right of quents dyno. Only problem was the rain soaked the mats which meant lots of drying shoes before each problem.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Boredboy on November 02, 2013, 04:57:22 pm
The elusive sticky-damp.......
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: mark20 on February 08, 2014, 03:26:55 pm
Soaking wet this morning. Loads of run off from the top.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: James Malloch on February 21, 2014, 04:35:43 pm
If you think Tom's cave is normally grim, I'd avoid it for a while. Pretty bad seepage in there today, didn't bother looking at minus 10 as it was chucking it down.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: haydn jones on February 21, 2014, 06:12:02 pm
had a decent session at stoney, but everything just feels slightly damp, pinch 2 hold is soaked (so zippies problem wet too) drying out nicely though, won't be soon till its in good nick!
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: mark20 on February 23, 2014, 07:50:05 pm
A few wet bits in the breaks but pretty much everything dry at Minus Ten now.
Tom's Roof stuff is a bit greasy but OK, though the landing is very muddy
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: haydn jones on March 10, 2014, 08:07:08 pm
done hannible at toms cave today, just a slightly damp undercut on it thats dryable. titus my be possible not sure, but everything else looked wet, minus ten wall now bone dry not a single patch of seepage.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Gallant on May 08, 2014, 07:37:52 pm
Every hold with the exception of the finishing jug is soaked on Hannibal, the entirety of the end of Titus is too, as well as the crimp early on (I've not tried it, but from sight I think it's a crimp anyway). Andronicus definitely out.

Also, two young (I'm assuming) gents have done some appreciably shit graffiti on the back wall traverse. 0/10 for effort.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: blacky on May 09, 2014, 08:25:22 pm
Look on the bright side, shit graffiti is better than actual human turd, which is normally found under one of the problems.

Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: James Malloch on May 19, 2014, 12:25:34 am
Tom's cave is showing no visible sign of human shit. There are spiders fucking everywhere (think a house spider that looks like it's wearing armour). Woodlice were making much more progress than me on all the problems. Some lovely people have practised writing their names, to be fair they're probably just learning to spell or something. It didn't smell too bad either.

But Hannibal and Titus are all lovely and dry. It's still grim though.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: haydn jones on July 19, 2014, 09:21:59 pm
-10 fooked and toms roof and cave buggered
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 22, 2014, 05:38:10 pm
Anyone been to Stoney this week? Would garage buttress routes be dry perhaps?
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: mark20 on November 22, 2014, 05:57:30 pm
Minus Ten totally soaked this morning
Garage looked OK, stuff right of Little Plum was wet, I think the most of the stuff to the left looked dry, perhaps a bit smeggy but not totally condensed. Bit of sun this afternoon might have helped dry it out
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 22, 2014, 06:37:53 pm
Thanks :)
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: haydn jones on December 02, 2014, 12:48:14 am
toms roof fucked from seepage all the holds.
minus ten RH side all bone dry. the LH side was break was all wet but the face holds felt mint, white ladder JABP ect were all great connies, except the fact your jumping to a wet hold on JABP, though i'm sure it would have been dryable
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: fatboySlimfast on December 29, 2014, 11:25:21 am
-10 soaked from double.scotch leftwards. Pinch area little bit damp, megatron dry.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Seb on December 29, 2014, 12:05:30 pm
Im guessing toms roof is fucked as well?
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: fatboySlimfast on December 29, 2014, 02:31:27 pm
Didnt actually see it but everything else is soaked by run off, Toms cave was soaked last night when I drove by.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: nai on January 10, 2015, 06:05:01 pm
odd spoogey break hold but otherwise clean, dry and sheltered this avo
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 10, 2015, 06:25:19 pm

odd spoogey break hold but otherwise clean, dry and sheltered this avo

That must be some jargon from  'tup n'rth,  because  over 30years on rock and I have no fricken clue what a spoogey break is, let alone an " odd" one...
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: nai on January 10, 2015, 06:32:56 pm
Odd = occasional, infrequent, not universal

break = a horizontal fissure in a rock face (of which minus ten has two)

break hold = areas of said break with are larger or more positive and preferable for use as a handhold

Spooge = wet, slimy, oozing gunk, muck, dirt,

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=spooge+site:http://ukbouldering.com/board/+-inurl:wap+-inurl:wap2+-inurl:imode&gws_rd=cr,ssl&ei=5G6xVPjJHMfpaKqQgJgF (https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=spooge+site:http://ukbouldering.com/board/+-inurl:wap+-inurl:wap2+-inurl:imode&gws_rd=cr,ssl&ei=5G6xVPjJHMfpaKqQgJgF)
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 10, 2015, 06:40:01 pm
Tom's was climbable but some seepage so a limited number of problems possible.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 10, 2015, 06:45:03 pm
Will second the above - some spoogey holds in the break.

Also in Tom's, but plenty doable.

I'll upload photos of the "slick jug" block. It's lost a lot from the RH side - all previously wobbly pieces, but I think this requires some serious stabilisation. Maybe some Sika spooged into the back?
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 10, 2015, 06:51:30 pm
Hmm.. I sound a bit stronger than you Jon.. :P

I swear that wasn't true; some very fine pulling earlier. Nice work.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: nai on January 10, 2015, 06:56:35 pm
 :wave: Hi guys, nice to meet you
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 10, 2015, 07:17:12 pm
Likewise  :dance1:

Great session out there today. And thanks  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 11, 2015, 02:29:04 am
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8645/16062878318_a30090a01b_b.jpg)

This could do with some attention. Maybe some Araldite or Sika. It's been losing bits steadily over the years, and could give someone a headache if they pulled it off!

Thoughts anyone?
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: kc on January 11, 2015, 10:19:26 am
Hi Dave, in the 21 century we use tubed resin, the same stuff that is used for bolts.
Check out  this beast, part of every cheating toe rags favourite 8b still hanging in there five years on.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=131112 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=131112)

I have plenty of tubes that can no longer be used for bolts, courtesy of the bolt fund if anybody would like to have a go.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 11, 2015, 12:17:05 pm
You've lots of experience of stabilising stuff kc, do you think just squeezing a load of resin into the back would be an effective solution?

If it weakened and came tumbling down in time Tom's would be knackered ( as would the climber underneath it I expect).

Hi nai  :wave:
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 11, 2015, 02:01:48 pm
Hi KC.

That sounds great. But I think I should canvas opinion first. Can I have a chat with you about it? Are you still living nearby? I'll pm you my phone number.

I'll put up a separate post later.

Dave.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Seb on January 11, 2015, 03:04:29 pm
Definitely cant let Toms roof get knackered. There are few enough places that I climb as it is.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: abarro81 on January 11, 2015, 03:27:20 pm
Stick some TNT down the back and blow it to kingdom come
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Seb on January 11, 2015, 03:53:02 pm
sacrilege, surely THE hold has to be some kind of listed monument by now.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: dave on January 11, 2015, 04:25:27 pm
Best thing would be to prise it off, clean the back up, then glue it back on, holding it in place while the glue sets with a scaffolding pole.

You would then have to walk over and solo Bubbles.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 11, 2015, 06:05:10 pm
I don't think I've got the courage for either!

It feels solid, but seems to have dropped slightly - with various bits now missing from the "break".

I'm assuming these have been lost, so I was going to suggest packing the back with resin - as well as around some of the other blocks.

If you try to lever it off, Garage Buttress might fall down.. taking Weedkiller traverse with it.

 :worms:

Anyone want to help out?
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: fatdoc on January 11, 2015, 07:38:26 pm
Careful with the extent of the "packing round the side" as that divot / dent is a really important intermediate for those of us under av. Ape
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: tomtom on January 11, 2015, 07:57:09 pm
Could it be acro propped, then drilled up from underneath through the block and into the crumbling choss outcrop above/around it - then have a steel pin resined in? Then packed with glue around the side?
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: kc on January 11, 2015, 10:50:14 pm
Here we go again, all the experts coming out now just like with the comedy Mecca thread.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11825.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11825.0.html)

I was not too familiar with the hold in question so went to have look today. The hold is one great big block about the size of an old telly and must weigh 80kg+. It does not move or creek but what is keeping it in place is a mystery. It would probably not come off without a fight and then cause untold damage.
 Trying to pin blocks is a nonsense, your more likely to split the thing in two.
 I do not believe the block has moved as all the cracks on the underside are in line. The two little wobble blocks wedged in the top have worked loose.
 The best course of action in my opinion, if that counts for anything, is to wait for it to dry out. Get something to stand on and rigorously clean out the back of the hold with the help of bottle brushes and an air pump. Then empty as many tubes of resin as it takes down the back of the hold using a nozzle to get into the depths. Hey presto.

I can supply all the tools for the job, but as I said just wait for it to dry first as the flour on your baking tray will stop you cookies sticking.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: fatboySlimfast on January 12, 2015, 08:01:17 am
The hold has been in that state for at least 2 years, why not wait till it shows some sign of movement?
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: highrepute on January 12, 2015, 08:20:08 am
I'd say at least 5 years.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: kc on January 12, 2015, 09:09:28 am
I fear the first time movement is detected with that beast is when someone rides it over the edge! Better to be safe than sorry and pump it with gunk.
I would usually advocate removal before repair but it's just to big. It's not ideal though as the available contact area is limited.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 12, 2015, 03:04:09 pm
Hi Kristian.

I agree.

Filling the back with resin when it's dry and clean was all I had in mind. It may cut down on water ingress too especially where pieces have come out. Pros and cons. Good effort going out to have a look!

I had been thinking of asking the CAN rock works team for a quote..

We used to live with half the Weedkiller flake propped up next to the fire.. I'd rather not implicate.. Mr. Slimfast.. so reasonable preventative measures would seem a good idea, on past experience.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 12, 2015, 03:12:48 pm
Careful with the extent of the "packing round the side" as that divot / dent is a really important intermediate for those of us under av. Ape

Yes, thanks for that fatdoc. I was thinking about around the back of the huge bucket that never was - especially because people will be using parts of the block that weren't loaded before.

Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: deacon on June 28, 2015, 11:11:45 am
Sticky damp on minus 10 this morning, majority of the trad routes look like they've survived last nights rain. Garage buttress looks like it's still a little damp but should be fine soon.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Three Nine on July 03, 2015, 02:25:44 pm
anyone know if Hannibal in the poo cave at Stoney gets runoff/is likely to survive tonights scheduled deluge? Bit of a drive for me see. ta!
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: dave on July 03, 2015, 02:42:40 pm
Doesn't get runoff, does get very close, damp and manky at the bottom bit in the corner though.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Three Nine on July 03, 2015, 02:45:37 pm
Cheers dave, mite risk it on that! Unless anyone's been this week and found the bottom wet?
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: T_B on July 04, 2015, 12:42:38 pm
#totallygopping
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Three Nine on July 05, 2015, 08:49:46 am
Cheers, glad i ddnt risk it in the end!
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: Mike Tyson on September 14, 2015, 01:52:28 pm
Just had a very pleasant hour or so at Minus 10 wall. Super conditions.
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: mark20 on November 20, 2016, 04:32:28 pm
Minus Ten and Tom's Roof all dry this afternoon, great conditions
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: bigironhorse on November 23, 2016, 05:32:40 pm
Minus Ten and Tom's Roof all dry this afternoon, great conditions

Anyone know/able to guess if toms roof will be dry this eve? Cheers
Title: Re: Stoney conditions report
Post by: bigironhorse on December 10, 2016, 08:10:14 pm
Minus ten and Toms roof were reasonably dry this afternoon Just starting to condense by the time I left though.
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal