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toy boy (Read 9622 times)

cofe

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toy boy
November 05, 2008, 09:54:41 pm
just spotted here that ned and dan variable have done toy boy. nice one.

Kingy

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#1 Re: toy boy
November 05, 2008, 10:03:01 pm
Schweet!! Looks well boney, nice work.

Johnny Brown

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#2 Re: toy boy
November 06, 2008, 08:09:58 am
that's great, ground up too, as it should be.

would appreciate any info on the line, as i've heard rumours of previous ascents traversing in from the right.

SA Chris

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#3 Re: toy boy
November 06, 2008, 08:19:42 am
Great effort.

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: toy boy
November 06, 2008, 08:27:43 am
Top work as ever.
From Dan:
Quote
which means i'm done for froggatt highballs after 4 visits. here's the froggatt highball list: (with the possible exception of screaming dream and a project (and maybe rampart with tons of pads))

mint 400 font 7b+
narcissus font 7a? (piss)
sole power: font 7b+ ( obviously ground up)
renegade master: font 7c (ground up second or third go)
slingshot: font 7c/+ (2nd go today after 2 minutes of mucking around a while ago, ground up)
toy boy: benchmark font 7c+ (very morpho, ground up)
chequers groove: super solid font 7c+ (2 visits, ground up)

Jaspersharpe

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#5 Re: toy boy
November 06, 2008, 08:59:12 am
Monster.

dave

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#6 Re: toy boy
November 06, 2008, 09:03:54 am
nice shit.


slackline

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#7 Re: toy boy
November 06, 2008, 09:48:40 am
nice shit.



Incorrectly captioned as being on Slingshot on the blog Cofe linked.  This is presumably Toy Boy then?

Jaspersharpe

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#8 Re: toy boy
November 06, 2008, 09:49:46 am
Yes it is.

tc

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#9 Re: toy boy
November 06, 2008, 01:53:50 pm
Loved this comment:
"They by no means deserve E grades as below 10m everything is pretty much a boulder problem these days."
That should put the cat amongst the pidgeons. I was going to claim an E6, 6b solo for Rouse's Wall on Carrock Fell on the grounds that it is as high as The Promise  ;)

nik at work

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#10 Re: toy boy
November 06, 2008, 02:39:59 pm
Nice work fellas, impressive list. (You just need to get back to Rivelin Quarries now)

But anything below 10 metres a boulder problem? Hmmmm, 10 metres (even 8 metres) is very high to be falling off even onto half a dozen mats....

a dense loner

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#11 Re: toy boy
November 06, 2008, 08:19:22 pm
plus look at the size of the gymnast pad and the other pads below. none are beer towels.

beasts. ned and dan really are the next generation, apart from maybe ned but that's just because he's ginger

GCW

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#12 Re: toy boy
November 06, 2008, 10:31:15 pm
Quote from:  Carlisle Slapper
toy boy: benchmark font 7c+ (very morpho, ground up)

Not being funny, but how can something be "benchmark" and also "morpho".  Surely the two are mutually exclusive.

Bon effort nonetheless.

carlisle slapper

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#13 Re: toy boy
November 07, 2008, 12:09:59 am
Jeez seems like everyone missed the Blog title and decided to zip past irony and call this news, what is cool is that this is a brilliant technical problem (Rearwheel drive) which deserves attention, its history is pretty nice too (Big Ron) and i guess is the only reason why it might drag itself kicking and screaming into a news column.

Beta for Adam:
No handed step onto outside edge RF and whip LF up no handed onto a good footer step onto this using a mono or a thumb mono on a 3mm? vertical edge, balance RF onto high foothold just up and R of LF, then stretch up and slightly L with LH to a slopey 3 finger crimp roughly as thick as a two 2ps in thickness, hope your ass doesn't sag out and stand up slowly on RF, ninja swap on the hold (i.e. no hands on the rock for a split second) then crimp like a mother with RH and put LF onto a really shit edge (also 2p width), hope it sticks and lunge for a slopey drag (Crux pic of Ned) match. then belly campus (or poetically dance your feet Adam ;) out to a LH ok crimp, use crap high LF smear, and lock upto a RH gaston, RF upto the slopey drag and match gaston then grab the ledge and top out up the stairs above.
got HD footage of both this and slingshot but still can't edit it due to the druids in my current PC not worshipping hard enough

Myths: you could traverse in from the right and it'd be pretty easy but still a bit scary, TBH i would FULLY believe all previous ascentionists (keep the worms in the can people) as its got an old school vibe and the main difficulties are reach based.

Foam:
We used 4 pads because thats all Me and Sherpa Feehally (he took big blue up the hill). i have 20 of the big blue ones and about 10 normal pads to use if i REALLY wanted and i have projects at home which are already using alot of these. funnily enough if anyone else turned up with some we'd have put them to use too, its pretty simple really: bring some foam and some mates to the bottom of something you want to do start at the bottom and hopefully someone will get to the top, it is a great way to climb and incredibly satisfying. Foam is a form of technology, technology is stuff we invent because its useful, you don't see people tapping out shit on telegrams to each other for extra kudos do you? (although wuthering heights in semafore is utter genius ) I quite like climbing good stuff quickly and i'd like to carry on doing it for the next few decades, pads are the best affordable technology available for doing this at the moment upto 10m-ish (a personal limit roughly based on physics) and for myself i enjoy it more than faffing about with ropes etc, once you leave the ground you just try and go upwards, if this fails only then are you quickly reaquainted with the reason why you have 10inches of foam below you.

big falls just come down to effective energy displacement and energy absorbancy of what you land on. 8m falls are something i've taken a few times in a session onto 6 inches of foam and been fine with. 10m i might be stiff for a few days after but i should recover fine provided i land perfectly. and i am bloody awesome at falling off hard problems especially high ones, although i do occasionally get it wrong and climb them.

GCW... its benchmark 7c+ in my opinion, (guess i could have left out benchmark but in my case i meant middle of the grade). this is because for my height thats what it felt like, a vote on the ballot paper. Ned thought it was soft i think, i've only recently started being arsed about grades again thanks to gregs convo that you can either screw the system (goodluck with those 7b+s i did this summer guys ;) or put your vote on the board, if your short its going to feel 8a-8a+ish, in comparison i did walk on by 2nd go 2 years ago after dropping the last move on the flash yet that problem has holds that you can yard on so thats what i did and i'd have given it 7b+ for my opinion then, (its broken now and needs stabilised, or new sequence) toyboy is all about kinaesthetics and reach, there is nothing to pull on and it took me longer, the only way i can express my opinion in grade form its my honest opinion its either that or i just wont bother, i cant imagine 200 different body types on a hold and take the mean, therefore for me it felt like a benchmark 7c+ slab, which i realise will be open to a high amount of fluctuation, hence morpho. Anyway thats just my current coping strategy for climbing's version of a pacemaker (essential, but a pain in the arse to keep alive, yet if they fail a large chunk of the sport will die)

Oh and don't ask us for any fingerboards yet as we're STILL 2 weeks off (sorry for the wait but atleast words out and people know they're waiting for something). believe me we'll let you know when they're ready ;)

r-man

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#14 Re: toy boy
November 07, 2008, 01:04:03 am
Good post pub reading. Thankyou, I enjoyed that!

Where do you get those big foam pads from then? They look great. Was thinking of splitting the cost of an 8a.nu airpad between a few friends for highballing purposes, but maybe 10 inches of foam is just as good. Bollocks to ropes on grit highballs, they're a pain in the arse. I want a full size bouncy castle that squashes down to pocket size.

GCW

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#15 Re: toy boy
November 07, 2008, 07:28:45 am
Cheers Dan.
Nice to see older routes with few ascents getting some attention.  Well done for getting out there.  What's next?  Don't let Nik badger you into visiting some dirty quarry at Rivelin though :lol:

Johnny Brown

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#16 Re: toy boy
November 07, 2008, 08:11:42 am
Quote
unnily enough if anyone else turned up with some we'd have put them to use too, its pretty simple really: bring some foam and some mates to the bottom of something you want to do start at the bottom and hopefully someone will get to the top, it is a great way to climb and incredibly satisfying.

amen to that. and they protect the landing from erosion - everyone's a winner. cheers for the beta, at 5'8'' tho i might be looking at a struggle. just for some perspective, i found walk on by was one of the hardest things i've done, cos you had to yard on those tiny holds. no way is it a slab. 7c+.

Quote
Myths: you could traverse in from the right and it'd be pretty easy but still a bit scary, TBH i would FULLY believe all previous ascentionists (keep the worms in the can people) as its got an old school vibe and the main difficulties are reach based.

i had a chat with both of the previous, and though my memory is poor, what i was trying to establish was NO traversing. All i remember is i didn't manage to establish that.

nik at work

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#17 Re: toy boy
November 07, 2008, 08:29:33 am
A truly excellent post Dan. Whether I agree with you or not is really irrelevant. That you wrote both clearly and entertainingly with just the right amount of lunacy is the important thing.
I still hold that 8 metres is a seriously long fall, but perhaps that just means I need to get more mates/mats?

Anyway back to Rivelin Quarries....

uptown

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#18 Re: toy boy
November 07, 2008, 09:55:02 am
Foam:
We used 4 pads because thats all Me and Sherpa Feehally (he took big blue up the hill). i have 20 of the big blue ones and about 10 normal pads to use if i REALLY wanted

Can you pm me when you're up this way next - I fancy a go on high fidelity but my s7 target gives me the fear.

Jaspersharpe

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#19 Re: toy boy
November 07, 2008, 10:11:29 am

Can you pm me when you're up this way next - I fancy a go on high fidelity but my s7 beer mat gives me the fear.

I was using lagers S7 mat for a while before I got round to buying my own proper pad. It was more psychological value than actual protection.  ;D

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#20 Re: toy boy
November 07, 2008, 10:47:28 am
Good work, however, I personally wouldn't consider an 8m fall safe.

Mint 400? Some of you were there when Harry missed the pad. Noddy was a hero that day.

Ned and Dan are no doubt very talented indeed, but font 8b climbers regrading E6's as highball font 7a? True for them no doubt, but for the average E6 punter I think the route grade stands.

Well done anyway chaps, a shining example.

a dense loner

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#21 Re: toy boy
November 07, 2008, 01:26:06 pm
wise words baron

ded and nan want to be the new uncle :kiss2:

Paul B

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#22 Re: toy boy
November 07, 2008, 07:05:35 pm
Ned and Dan are no doubt very talented indeed, but font 8b climbers regrading E6's as highball font 7a? True for them no doubt, but for the average E6 punter I think the route grade stands.

Quote
"We love pads too the more the merrier, if everyone at the plantation on a weekend stuck a pad under Unfamiliar it'd be fine! Work together people and claim all these routes masquerading as boulders, pads save the ground and your ankles. E grades under 9m are a bit of a joke when pads are involved, learn how to fall off properly too..."

If highball grades work for you then thats fair enough, i'm sure its all a little tongue in cheek anyway, just be wary about how much protection you think a mat can give you, even big blue!

andy_e

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#23 Re: toy boy
November 08, 2008, 01:28:09 am
I fancy a go on high fidelity but my s7 target gives me the fear.

The worst thing about that mat is, if you hit the centre of the target, there's not foam whatsoever.


Bon effort to the lads, keeping on pushing the envelope is the only way forward now. Well done to Variance and Flanders.

p.s. has ned got a ginger boff now?

 

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