[grimer]

anyone have any knowledge on this route? It's down in the last guide as the easiest E7 in the list, but has anyone repeated it, tried it or even looked at it through a periscope? I think that I think I remember Peter Robins saying he couldn't even top rope it, i think. Anyone? Adam, El Mocho, Pat?

[andy popp]

I abbed it once and thought it looked very hard. Was too discouraged to try even vaguely properly (i.e. in places it seemed hard to even pull on let alone move). It would never even occur to me that Dr John would have any interest in fibbing so this must just stand as a damn fine effort. Without the siderunner would make a worthy project for some young turk.

[nik at work]

Me and Dan stuck a rope down it back in the day and both got completely shut down. Nails hard, I'd stick it right up the top of the E7 list. I seem to remember Mike Lea telling me he'd done it, or tried it, or something....

[grimer]

Ta for those replies. It looks hellish. And the side-runner doesn't exactly make it look safe neither.

[andy popp]

No, but all the hard climbing is in the lower half and if I remember the ground is flat. With big pads it might not be too unreasonable a proposition safety wise? The again, I haven't seen it in ages and could be wrong.

[Tommy]

I spoke to John about it and he said that he thought it was about 8 or 8a+ on a top rope (I think - it was a big number whatever) and that he seemed to have some recollection of a pebble or 2 that was key. It doesn't look like there are many on there now!

Also, he wasn't much of a regular trad climber so I think his grade was a total guess by his own admission!

[grimer]

Ah thak you Tommy. Looks like this is a bit of a tough nut, then.

[Hydraulic Man]

I was one of the belayers when John did this-He used two belayers and from what I remember the side runner was so low it was basically for "cosmetic" purposes only-He will have some photos somewhere, as his mate was on camera duty. Very impressive ascent from what I can recall.