[Jim]

Drawing up my shortlist for this weekend. Any suggestions incase I've forgotten or missed any of them

[Monolith]

I believe you've done Piranja if memory serves (or was that Lee)? If not, add the direct and proper version (sneaking in from Goldfisch seems trite). Blown Away is a pretty stunning line. How about Octopussy for those guns sir? You'll tear the place apart I'm sure anyway lad.

[dave]

jim you should just man the fuck up and do cote de sechaun - you've done enough 7cs there already. aim high.

[Monolith]

Agreed. Have a great trip beast and get some good footage.

[unclesomebody]

I thought Snow Storm looked like one of the best problems there. Can't really remember any others in that grade range which looked as good. Have fun!

[philo]

if you havent done it, blown away is a beauty of a line.
good positive crimps into a rail with a big rock move to finish high up. its amazing really. need to get back and do it

[BenF]

Funny that Blown Away should come up.  I was waxing lyrical about it being an amazing line just last night.  It's first on my list next month having only come across it as it was getting dark on the last day of my trip there last year.  As Philo says, a beauty of a line.

Any more suggestions?  Uncle, where is Snow Storm?

[Somebody's Fool]

If you remember Jim, you basically flashed the crux section of Cote du Seshuan. Try it again etc?

Also for any self respecting Heels 'n' Beef merchant, Supernova's got to be pretty high on the list.

[Monolith]

Heels 'n' Beef

 

A quality pr0nographic production.

[Jim]

They are all on the list apart from pirajna direct and snowstorm.
Never heard of snowstorm, where is it Kieth and what grade?
Did pirajna years ago and did it the same way that I've seen Graham, nalle etc.. do it in video's, have no intrest in doing a shit eliminate version of it.
Kalorian monster is on the list, hopefully it won't start raining when I'm half way along again.
Anyone done man of cow? Its pretty high I seem to remember.
I did flash the bottom of cote du sechaun but haven't been able to do it since so this means nothing. Its a very cool problem and I hope to crush it this year

[Monolith]

When you go there Jim, draw an imaginary transect line starting from a set of holds directly underneath the finishing jug at the base of the wall. It will be straight as a Lee and an upline. Meandering in from Goldfisch requires more moves and you don't get to do the awesome 'violent' first move of the direct.

Anyway, you have bigger fish to fry with Cote. Mutilate it.

[unclesomebody]

Snow storm is basically the direct version of Pura Vida. It goes straight up from the start of pura vida. Grade is somewhere around 7C-8A.

[dobbin]

I've got a video of me doing Cote d'un Seshuan somewhere. I'll have a look.

[dave]

When you go there Jim, draw an imaginary transect line starting from a set of holds directly underneath the finishing jug at the base of the wall. It will be straight as a Lee and an upline. Meandering in from Goldfisch requires more moves and you don't get to do the awesome 'violent' first move of the direct.

if you want to do straight-line eliminates I suggest you guys come to the tor and save petrol money. The fact of the matter is if magic wood had been developed by sub-8b heros then all the locals eliminates would have gone down on record as such, instead of masquerading as "true" lines. the number of 7a-7c problems at magic spoilt by nonsensical rules or arbitrarily low starting positions are crazy.

for example no-one in their right mind insists you must do deliverance without the crack, even though it is good like this and would give a straight line problem.

[Jaspersharpe]

I've got a video of me doing Cote d'un Seshuan somewhere. I'll have a look.

First result on   

[BenF]

Kalorian monster is on the list, hopefully it won't start raining when I'm half way along again.

On my list too.  I'm always up for a sideways grovel.

cote du sechaun

What grade does this get now?

[Jim]

I've got a video of me doing Cote d'un Seshuan somewhere. I'll have a look.

Look at me!!!!

[Jaspersharpe]

cote du sechaun

What grade does this get now?

And what is it actually called as all I can find about it is Dobbin's video? 

[dobbin]

First result on   

And the next three too!

Yeah well, y'all should look at me - I've been in a gay mag and everything. Have followed Keith's steer and started putting a couple of things on vimeo. perhaps the Gresh will want to interview me for his next article in climber - 'psyching yourself out in two easy blog posts'...

[Jim]

for example no-one in their right mind insists you must do deliverance without the crack, even though it is good like this and would give a straight line problem.

A bad example here as the direct on deliverance is much better than the left start and piranja is an eliminate missing out an easy to reach hold which makes up the obvious line and turns a decent problem into a shit eliminate with a horrible move on it.

I'll have a look at snowstorm, the landing has always put me off that bloc tbh

You going this weekend dobbin?

[dobbin]

Got invited - skint and no holidays left to take. 



Blown away.

[Jim]

Thats a crap excuse.
Its an awesome problems but it is....?

what?

[dobbin]

I think I said scary. The quality of that video on youtube is dreadful. Didnt you do Blown away when we went in 06 Jim?

[Andy B]

Anyone done man of cow? Its pretty high I seem to remember.

Man of Cow is really good, and not too high. Plus it eases with height. Getting off was a bit fun for me as the top/back of the boulder was covered in moss, so I walked along the ledge to the top of the easy flake crack and got mats piled high for me to jump on to, after a wimper or two.

[dobbin]

Here's a better quality Cote d'un seshuan