OK so I thought I'd provide a bit of data such that a grade can be concluded? However, beware, I could write a thesis on this subject but here goes. In proposing the following it needs to be understood that at this grade a lot of the difficulty is subjective ie do you need small fingers, are you good at crimping, good at dynoing, tall, small and so on. Hence because of these factors at any grade some people will find any given problem easy / hard and so it will be at the top / bottom of their comfort zone ie phsical make up matching the problem's required make up. I only state this because I suspect that this problem is at the top my comfort zone. On Thursday night I managed all 4 moves in a single session and so concluded that whilst they are hard they are not desperate. The moves are not as difficult as say Hooligan start or Superman start, however, there are 4 and not 2 moves as on each of these 2 problems and the way I climb it there is a bit of faffing around with feet so you are on the very small holds for longer. If I were to grade this problem having made the first ascent, and bear in mind I haven't actually done it yet, I would probably give it very top end 8a+. However, I will now apply my comfort zone factor which means because it is at the very top end of the grade coupled with it being at the top end of my comfort zone it is therefore probably easy 8b. Well I guess you're all thinking what a load of crap but I have stuck my neck out and you can take it as you will.
