Topic: Sit start to A Bigger Tail added by Varian (Read 6865 times)

Jim · « **Reply #25 on:** May 08, 2008, 06:04:33 am »

People shouldn't be worried about throwing big numbers about, its never bothered the swiss

Shy Ted · « **Reply #26 on:** May 08, 2008, 07:52:17 am »

had a quick gander at it on tuesday. looks tres difficile. bon effort

travs · « **Reply #27 on:** May 09, 2008, 11:48:08 am »

Looked at this last night and have a few queries. Is there a prescribed sequence as it looks like you could move slightly left to a good undercut and then stretch above the left hand dish to a long diagonal edge or are these holds a waste of time / out of bounds? Also did Dan go right hand to the good edges or did he roll over the top with his left? Good effort and thanks for any help.

Shy Ted · « **Reply #28 on:** May 09, 2008, 12:29:44 pm »

chuff me. tried to pull on this morning. couldn't. having not really done any seriously hard moves, i can't really comment, but i'd say it's the hardest thing i've tried. i reckon it's harder than any other limestone problems i've done/tried and it's probably even harder than superman. if press low left is 8a+, and superman is 8a+, then this is 8b

.

i don't know much about grades tho but it's seriously dirty gaskins-style crimping on sharp jagged holds

Andy B · « **Reply #29 on:** May 09, 2008, 01:39:31 pm »

Quote from: travs on May 09, 2008, 11:48:08 am

did Dan go right hand to the good edges or did he roll over the top with his left?

I don't know about alternative sequences, but I was shown the last move into the Bigger Tail starting edges as a jump, catching the left end of the edges with my right hand, then shuffling my hands to do the first move of Bigger Tail etc.

dobbin · « **Reply #30 on:** May 12, 2008, 11:30:17 am »

Quote from: travs on May 09, 2008, 11:48:08 am

it looks like you could move slightly left to a good undercut and then stretch above the left hand dish to a long diagonal edge or are these holds a waste of time / out of bounds? Also did Dan go right hand to the good edges or did he roll over the top with his left? Good effort and thanks for any help.

The problem he did back hands the undercut with the left hand, and then uses it a la gaston to gain rubbish pocket thing, then left hand to rubbish two finger rubbish ness thing and then fire to jug. Blimey. Its so hard. 8B and the rest.

r-man · « **Reply #31 on:** May 12, 2008, 11:41:02 am »

Where's this video then? Come on, we're all eyes...

cofe · « **Reply #32 on:** May 12, 2008, 11:42:09 am »

i'm with r-man. i want to see the video. now.

monkey boy · « **Reply #33 on:** May 12, 2008, 01:27:51 pm »

As shooter of the video i can safely tell you all that its not too amazing! But the crushing waddness of it all was!

travs · « **Reply #34 on:** May 12, 2008, 01:52:02 pm »

OK, so we accept that the video is maybe of crap quality but it should at least point to the used sequence. Went to look and try again on Saturday. Touched the holds and thought yep these are OK, I can pull on these. Put my boots on, got underneath them and failed to link a single move! So conclusion is it is/was :

1. Very hot.
2. I am not as strong as I thought.
3. It's bloody hard.
4. ALL OF THE ABOVE.

monkey boy · « **Reply #35 on:** May 12, 2008, 02:42:53 pm »

It is definately number 3 and it has been very hot!! Dan has the video on his phone but dont think he has the stuff to put it on the computer. Think Dobbin now has it so he will probably sort it out with his fingers of technology!

dobbin · « **Reply #36 on:** May 13, 2008, 11:47:59 am »

If you are giving me the ok to publish then I shall do so.... two minutes....

dobbin · « **Reply #37 on:** May 13, 2008, 12:03:31 pm »

[youtube=425,350]"http://www.youtube.com/v/Peb1QdlzZdI"[/youtube]

In case attempt to embed failed...

r-man · « **Reply #38 on:** May 13, 2008, 12:43:39 pm »

Embedded it for you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Peb1QdlzZdI
	LQ \| HQ

Looks nails!

cofe · « **Reply #39 on:** May 13, 2008, 12:49:24 pm »

who said the quality was rubbish? that's nonsense. i'd like to see it as a DVD cover mount on a mag.

looks nails - good effort.

cowboyhat · « **Reply #40 on:** May 13, 2008, 12:55:05 pm »

I love the aspect ratio/orientation problem.

I once gave my video camera to a well known member of this forum (anyone for danny's?), much to my amusement when we watched the footage back of me climbing across the television a look of bemused realisation appeared on his fizzgog.

Dylan · « **Reply #41 on:** May 13, 2008, 12:56:08 pm »

Quote from: cofe on May 13, 2008, 12:49:24 pm

who said the quality was rubbish? that's nonsense. i'd like to see it as a DVD cover mount on a mag.

looks nails - good effort.

I think Gravity has gone out of production

Somebody's Fool · « **Reply #42 on:** May 13, 2008, 02:07:51 pm »

Quote from: cowboyhat on May 13, 2008, 12:55:05 pm

I once gave my video camera to a well known member of this forum (anyone for danny's?), much to my amusement when we watched the footage back of me climbing across the television a look of bemused realisation appeared on his fizzgog.

I've seen that footage of the Hobson Moor Back Wall Traverse too. What's your point?

fatdoc · « **Reply #43 on:** May 14, 2008, 08:12:15 am »

did he finish it?

i would say one would have to complete eh?

sit start with 2 pads?

i'm not detracting, but even a lowly highball 7a will feel fuck hard after doing that, esp as it's a bit on offy at the top...

(woz) · « **Reply #44 on:** May 14, 2008, 10:27:42 am »

Quote from: fatdoc on May 14, 2008, 08:12:15 am

did he finish it?
i'm not detracting, but even a lowly highball 7a will feel fuck hard after doing that, esp as it's a bit on offy at the top...

I'm sure he did.

Quote from: fatdoc on May 14, 2008, 08:12:15 am

sit start with 2 pads?

From the vid it looks like he can only just reach the first holds from there. Seems fair enough to me.

Greg C · « **Reply #45 on:** May 14, 2008, 10:55:20 am »

Poor old Dan, caught on video twice in one month; the myth crumbles.

Jaspersharpe · « **Reply #46 on:** May 15, 2008, 08:17:46 am »

This looks very very hard indeed and I concur with what people are saying. The holds are fucking shocking.

Made my first (climbing) visit to Rubicon in about 15 years yesterday pm. Conditions were not the promised 13 degrees and cloudy and instead Kudos Wall was baking in 23 degree sun. Still, managed to do a few things (great problems by the way) and looking at the harder problems I could see that with a bit more strength and some cool temps they'll be worth me having a bash at in the future.

Except for this. It is utter filth.

Quote from: dobbin on May 12, 2008, 11:30:17 am

The problem he did back hands the undercut with the left hand, and then uses it a la gaston to gain rubbish pocket thing, then left hand to rubbish two finger rubbish ness thing and then fire to jug. Blimey. Its so hard. 8B and the rest.

WORD. Good effort Dan.

Slide · « **Reply #47 on:** May 15, 2008, 03:23:28 pm »

Ah! Thought that was you Mr Sharp but expected a cockney accent! And before you say owt Jonboy it was me first time there in ages, honest

Jaspersharpe · « **Reply #48 on:** May 15, 2008, 03:29:00 pm »

Alright mate, hope you had a good session. Cockney indeed! Hybrid Sussex / 16 years in Sheffield accent I'll have you know.

Slide · « **Reply #49 on:** May 15, 2008, 03:41:01 pm »

Not bad after the sun dipped down a bit ta. had the place to myself and no tourist asking daft questions either. V rare.

Author Topic: Sit start to A Bigger Tail added by Varian (Read 6865 times)