Had a look at it on Tuesday eve, amazing in a very dismaying proper dirty Gaskins' style
Rubicon, England.This must must be a lot harder than the Low Left Press 8a+ (jugs in comparison!). I think Smit should try it and report back.
so,it's 8b then?c'mon..... everyone says it's monster, and harder than the 8a+ just next to it.......
The hold Dan has with his RH in the photo is a bit like the Revelations pocket (difficult to crimp, difficult to slope) requiring bizarre hang strength but probably 4 times smaller. However I reckon you can also gaston the right side of this hold with 2 fingers (equally horendous but in a differnet way).
Quote from: fatdoc on May 05, 2008, 06:50:54 pmso,it's 8b then?c'mon..... everyone says it's monster, and harder than the 8a+ just next to it.......nail on the head
Quote from: Doylo on May 05, 2008, 07:54:13 pmQuote from: fatdoc on May 05, 2008, 06:50:54 pmso,it's 8b then?c'mon..... everyone says it's monster, and harder than the 8a+ just next to it.......nail on the headI hope this does get upgraded (not that I'm in any position to judge either these grades or this particular problem but from reading others comments.....) because I always thought the top Peak climbers shot themselves in the foot a little in late '80s, early 90s. It saddens me to read comments such as 'Liquid Amber, maybe the first 8c+ in the world' or 'Hubble, may have been the first 9a in the world' when they could have been graded as such originally and become more lauded on a world scale. Likewise surely you have to wonder about something like Superman which is in the middle of the Peak, a Jerry tick and yet has still only recieved a handful(?) of ascents (I know about the crumbling foot holds and sidepull etc but even so).I know its minor point but it has the potential to skew history slightly, and for what? On the other hand if this problem really is 8a+ you can disregard the above , if you haven't already.Sorry I got a bit there, well done Dan!
It's not really a case of 'upgrading' to 8b. Going on what Dan said, I wrote 'minumum 8a+', i.e. 8a+ or harder, yet to be confirmed. These are big numbers and I imagine he's wary of going in with a big number. What's needed is some pedigree crimpers to give it a go to settle the grade.
I'd sooner see the grade confirmed by world class rock boulderers, not dog groomers.
did Dan go right hand to the good edges or did he roll over the top with his left?
it looks like you could move slightly left to a good undercut and then stretch above the left hand dish to a long diagonal edge or are these holds a waste of time / out of bounds? Also did Dan go right hand to the good edges or did he roll over the top with his left? Good effort and thanks for any help.
who said the quality was rubbish? that's nonsense. i'd like to see it as a DVD cover mount on a mag. looks nails - good effort.
I once gave my video camera to a well known member of this forum (anyone for danny's?), much to my amusement when we watched the footage back of me climbing across the television a look of bemused realisation appeared on his fizzgog.
did he finish it?i'm not detracting, but even a lowly highball 7a will feel fuck hard after doing that, esp as it's a bit on offy at the top...
sit start with 2 pads?
The problem he did back hands the undercut with the left hand, and then uses it a la gaston to gain rubbish pocket thing, then left hand to rubbish two finger rubbish ness thing and then fire to jug. Blimey. Its so hard. 8B and the rest.
did he finish it?i would say one would have to complete eh?sit start with 2 pads?i'm not detracting, but even a lowly highball 7a will feel fuck hard after doing that, esp as it's a bit on offy at the top...
the top end of my comfort zone
OK so I thought I'd provide a bit of data such that a grade can be concluded? However, beware, I could write a thesis on this subject but here goes. In proposing the following it needs to be understood that at this grade a lot of the difficulty is subjective ie do you need small fingers, are you good at crimping, good at dynoing, tall, small and so on. Hence because of these factors at any grade some people will find any given problem easy / hard and so it will be at the top / bottom of their comfort zone ie phsical make up matching the problem's required make up. I only state this because I suspect that this problem is at the top my comfort zone. On Thursday night I managed all 4 moves in a single session and so concluded that whilst they are hard they are not desperate. The moves are not as difficult as say Hooligan start or Superman start, however, there are 4 and not 2 moves as on each of these 2 problems and the way I climb it there is a bit of faffing around with feet so you are on the very small holds for longer. If I were to grade this problem having made the first ascent, and bear in mind I haven't actually done it yet, I would probably give it very top end 8a+. However, I will now apply my comfort zone factor which means because it is at the very top end of the grade coupled with it being at the top end of my comfort zone it is therefore probably easy 8b. Well I guess you're all thinking what a load of crap but I have stuck my neck out and you can take it as you will.
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Topic: Sit start to A Bigger Tail added by Varian (Read 7159 times)
