Quality Bouldering Piccies (Part V)

[Bungle.]

[Moo]

i just can't get psyched for pictures of castle or flock hill because by all accounts the climbing there is good........ but not that good.

[SA Chris]

Who told you that?? Amazing probs, so improbable but doable with a bit of lateral thought.

[BenF]

i just can't get psyched for pictures of castle or flock hill because by all accounts the climbing there is good........ but not that good.

Whoever said that clearly only spent an afternoon there in poor conditions.  No, it doesn't have the variety of say Font, but it is still an amazing place to climb in terms of location and most importantly in terms of movement.  Pretty much every problem is of a high standard and there are very few issues in terms of rock quality.  Well that's my opinion anyway.

[Moo]

thats the problem, everyone has said it's an amazing situation which it obviously is it looks amazing, but the climbing isn't on a par with the surroundings. I was told this amongst other people from a local who i met in switzerland though his name eludes me.

[Richie Crouch]

I have next to no desire to go there as I think any pick from Hueco/Rocklands/Bishop/rmnp/chironico/albaraccin/Parisella's look to have better climbing 

[Bungle.]

Ive climbed in a lot of places and Have to say castle Hill is up there for having a lot of Amazing climbing especially Flock Hill.

It's limestone and very conditions dependant but the problems are awsome. The area has style all of its own so as you get used to climbing there the Ego can and often will take a kicking.

[SA Chris]

I was told this amongst other people from a local who i met in switzerland though his name eludes me.

Sounds like a great source. Why don't you go and then form your own opinion, rather than base your opinions on that of some guy you met?

I would choose to back there over Rocklands or Bishop again, or just about any of the places I have bouldered at across the world (except Font) for the sheer quality of the probs. I can see why it wouldn't be everyone's bag though, doesn't suit a lot of people's climbing style.

[fatboySlimfast]

I was told this amongst other people from a local who i met in switzerland though his name eludes me.

Sounds like a great source. Why don't you go and then form your own opinion, rather than base your opinions on that of some guy you met?

I would choose to back there over Rocklands or Bishop again, or just about any of the places I have bouldered at across the world (except Font) for the sheer quality of the probs. I can see why it wouldn't be everyone's bag though, doesn't suit a lot of people's climbing style.

Have to say i agree with you on this one Moo, spent 3 weeks at castle Hill/fock hilland to me it was a good but I just didnt think it was the best. Situation is amazing (although I have bouldered in Tazmania/Deep South/ Colorado/Britain in equally stunning locations) but to paraphrase Dense...goodness me.....dismiss all other venues cos its just not font

[slack---line]

Have to say i agree with you on this one Moo, spent 3 weeks at castle Hill/fock hilland to me it was a good but I just didnt think it was the best. Situation is amazing (although I have bouldered in Tazmania/Deep South/ Colorado/Britain in equally stunning locations) but to paraphrase Dense...goodness me.....dismiss all other venues cos its just not font

There can, by definition, only be one best venue!

[Fiend]

Who told you that?? Amazing probs, so improbable but doable with a bit of lateral thought.

This is correct. Add my name to the "almost all accounts that the climbing is awesome" list.

The scenery is pretty cool but TBH I can't remember much of it. I DO remember the problems and routes and the sculpted rock and the general feel and the whole bonkers technicality and uniqueness of it all to be ACE.

[Stubbs]

Castle Hill basin seem to be a real Marmite climbing area, people either seem to come back raving about it or thinking it was log; I'm not sure I'd be willing to take on the 30(?) hours of flying to find out I was in the latter group!

[SA Chris]

Even if you knew it was going to rock your world, if you are going to fly to NZ just to boulder at Castle Hill you are kind of missing out on the rest of the country.

[BenF]

I have next to no desire to go there as I think any pick from Hueco/Rocklands/Bishop/rmnp/chironico/albaraccin/Parisella's look to have better climbing 

You'd get your lanky ginger arse kicked there anyway, so don't bother.  Stick to the cave.   

[Doylo]

I have next to no desire to go there as I think any pick from Hueco/Rocklands/Bishop/rmnp/chironico/albaraccin/Parisella's look to have better climbing 

You'd get your lanky ginger arse kicked there anyway, so don't bother.  Stick to the cave.   

Thats why i'm not psyched, not travelling to the other side of the globe to get a royal spanking!

[Stubbs]

if you are going to fly to NZ just to boulder at Castle Hill

People fly to foreign countries for reasons other than climbing?  ???

[slack---line]

if you are going to fly to NZ just to boulder at Castle Hill

People fly to foreign countries for reasons other than climbing?  ???

Of course not, but there are other venues in NZ than Castle/Flock Hill 

[SA Chris]

Personally, I was having too much fun doing other stuff to fit much climbing in.

[Andy B]

Castle Hill basin seem to be a real Marmite climbing area, people either seem to come back raving about it or thinking it was log

In my exerience of peoples views whilst there, which group people landed in seemed to exclusively depend on how desperately bothered they were as to what grade they were climbing.

Almost everyone dropped grades, esecially when conditions weren't perfect, but those who could see past this recognised the fantastic, interesting and varied quality of the climbing, on great features and pure lines with no eliminates [that I found], and very little basic pulling.

I'm not saying anyone who has slated Castle Hill is grade obsessed, this is just what I observed of the people who were there when we were.

[fatboySlimfast]

its shit come lets face it..............................joke
Paynes Ford, now thats shit, half way round the world to climb in cheedale urgh

[Andy B]

Paynes Ford, now thats shit, half way round the world to climb in cheedale urgh

Yeah, I had my 'lets stop climbing routes' epiphany whilst brushing the dust off another faceless sport climb at paynes.

The swimming spot was lush though, and the tiny cinema, and the Mussel Inn, and that lake with the reverse periscope to watch the trout cruising around... There's definately a lot more to NZ than the climbing.

[dave]

there's also the toothbrush fence.

[Drew]

Bet they don't have a Lapis!

[Andy B]

there's also the toothbrush fence.

When we came across a similarly themed 'footwear fence,' I had been wearing a blue pair of plastic Gola astroturf boots continuously for two months. Needless to say they were humming so badly that Emma made me get out of the car [we were living in] to try and find a matching pair to exchange for the Golas.

[SA Chris]

the Mussel Inn

Now that is a great place. We did a day of bolt clipping at Payne's Ford before deciding the sea kayaking looked like a more pleasaant option.