Anybody know this boulder? (Read 6337 times)

superfurrymonkey · March 23, 2008, 08:25:39 pm

Where in Nebo (North Wales) is this?

Houdini · March 23, 2008, 09:24:58 pm

Mince around zee radio mast.

superfurrymonkey · March 23, 2008, 09:31:03 pm

I will be wearing a red carnation.

Houdini · March 23, 2008, 09:41:45 pm

I heard a mate guff on about a huge boulder to be seen in this area, the mast area. Wear your carnation, maybe you will find the boulder. This info has no provenence whatsoever . . . He he . . . It looks big but shit. It's nowhere near as good as T h e M y s t e r i o u s Q u a r t z B l o c . . .

andy_e · March 23, 2008, 10:47:33 pm

Doesn't look very shit. Isn't this where Huffy's V9 thing goes?

superfurrymonkey · March 23, 2008, 10:56:04 pm

Could be, Huffy features quite a lot in the guy`s photo`s.

Doylo · March 24, 2008, 09:25:20 am

Quote from: andi_e on March 23, 2008, 10:47:33 pm

Doesn't look very shit. Isn't this where Huffy's V9 thing goes?

You might be thinking of Ultimate Warrior, if so no.

chummer · March 24, 2008, 02:41:37 pm

The block in the photo is actually pretty good, abeit a little esoteric, it's defo ain't shit tho. I did about 10 problems amongst these boulders about 4 years ago. When was this photo taken? If you wander around near the mast you wont find these boulders...

Pantontino · March 25, 2008, 10:24:58 am

It's pretty obvious if you look on Flashearth.com.

Chummers - what sort of grades were the problems you did?

superfurrymonkey · March 25, 2008, 04:33:20 pm

The problem in the picture is V5/6 and was uploaded to Flickr june 2005.

"It looks better than it actually was - most of the boulders were chossy. This problem was about V5-6 I think." BrynJ the guy who`s picture it is.

slackline · March 25, 2008, 04:44:55 pm

Quote from: Doylo on March 24, 2008, 09:25:20 am

Quote from: andi_e on March 23, 2008, 10:47:33 pm
Doesn't look very shit. Isn't this where Huffy's V9 thing goes?

You might be thinking of Ultimate Warrior, if so no.

Pic of that (I guess, don't know the problem myself, but I'm sure Doylo can confirm) on his thread too for comparison...

Houdini · March 25, 2008, 04:56:08 pm

LL55 said: "Where is this?"

For shame LL55! For shame! W/ your postcode n'all! tsk tsk!

Doylo · March 25, 2008, 08:49:02 pm

Quote from: slack---line on March 25, 2008, 04:44:55 pm

Quote from: Doylo on March 24, 2008, 09:25:20 am
Quote from: andi_e on March 23, 2008, 10:47:33 pm
Doesn't look very shit. Isn't this where Huffy's V9 thing goes?

You might be thinking of Ultimate Warrior, if so no.

Pic of that (I guess, don't know the problem myself, but I'm sure Doylo can confirm) on his thread too for comparison...

Yes that is UW of Cwm Pennant.

Houdini · March 25, 2008, 08:57:00 pm

Lb for Lb I rate the bouldering in Cwm Pennant as the best in N. Wales.

Drew · March 25, 2008, 10:43:49 pm

Anyone got any information on the Cwm Pennant bouldering, like grid references?

EDIT: Ok so I did a little search and came away with

Quote

Cwm Pennant, page 172, OS GR 530 451

from a very helpful Panton

as opposed to

Quote

OS ref 450 533 Craig Isallt

from the same man!

Drew · March 25, 2008, 11:16:45 pm

Quote from: superfurrymonkey on March 23, 2008, 08:25:39 pm

Where in Nebo (North Wales) is this?

Which fecking Nebo? I've found about half a dozen in Gwynedd/Conwy, and one on Anglesey!

superfurrymonkey · March 25, 2008, 11:18:18 pm

The other side of Pen Y Groes near the aforementioned huge mast.

R.J. · March 26, 2008, 08:02:43 am

The first photo: Yes, by the radio-mast. Taken by my brother (BrynJ) between 2000-2003. Tom McLeay climbing, Huffmeister filming, me spotting. Boulders looked great from afar but were shite on closer inspection. Crumbly...

Possibly some stuff higher up in the gully but never ventured that far as we felt so cheated by the disappointment of the boulder pictured (and the others nearby).

Second photo: Taken by myself or my brother - can't remember, around the same period. Huff-Hogan climbing his (awesome) Ultimate Warrior. Check out "Stone Cold" in Cwm Pennant also- good problem, FA: by me bruv. Hop over the fence (don't get caught) on left up the road from the bridge. Go up and right into a little crevasse created by the rocks (kind of hidden). Side-pull and crimp to dyno to good ledge.

And I'm out like Arthur C.

JohnM · March 26, 2008, 10:17:58 am

I had the worst day ever looking for Ultimate Warrior. It sounded so simple to get to in the guide, but needless to say I never made it. I tried to get to what I thought was the boulder directly. After wading through a swamp I tried to climb up the side of a hill guarded by ferocious brambles and broken cliffs. After falling constantly and in a state of constant tug of war I discarded the pads. By this stage I had summit fever and the prospect of going down was worse than getting to the top. I tried to get up this wet gully with less brambles before taking a 30 foot tumble back down the slope severley bruising my arse but being saved from worse injury by being suspended in a web of brambles. I eventually made it down to the fields below and limped back towards car covered in blood and then its started pissing it down.

Doylo · March 26, 2008, 10:34:21 am

yeah you need to make it up onto the ridge. UW is quite high up. Is tricky to find!

Pantontino · March 28, 2008, 12:52:55 pm

Quote from: Drew on March 25, 2008, 10:43:49 pm

Anyone got any information on the Cwm Pennant bouldering, like grid references?

EDIT: Ok so I did a little search and came away with

Quote
Cwm Pennant, page 172, OS GR 530 451

from a very helpful Panton

as opposed to

Quote
OS ref 450 533 Craig Isallt

from the same man!

The 2nd ref is back to front. That much should be obvious just by looking at a map (Craig Isallt is marked on OS maps).

As I've said before, the description for the UW approach was written by someone else (Ding Dong if memory serves me right), so I can't vouch for its accuracy 100%. However, looking at it from a combination of Flashearth.com and an OS map it looks pretty straightforward to me - plenty of people have found it following the guidebook instructions. And considering how many copies of the guide are in circulation (thousands) I would have expected significant negative feedback on this if there was a big problem.

That being said I will go and check it out for myself - I quite like crimps these days.

Pantontino · March 28, 2008, 01:00:16 pm

On the original point, I spoke to Chummers the other day and he explained that the area didn't live up to his initial expectations. Lots of good looking roofs that turned out to be non lines, that sort of stuff. He climbed the line in the photo, but with a different sequence (thinks a hold may have broken).

There is a promised land out there somewhere, but I don't think this is it.

R.J. · March 28, 2008, 10:15:37 pm

Quote from: Pantontino on March 28, 2008, 01:00:16 pm

On the original point, I spoke to Chummers the other day and he explained that the area didn't live up to his initial expectations. Lots of good looking roofs that turned out to be non lines, that sort of stuff. He climbed the line in the photo, but with a different sequence (thinks a hold may have broken).

There is a promised land out there somewhere, but I don't think this is it.

You're spot on with that last sentence Pantsy.

I spent ages looking for the a such a place when I used to live in N W. Did a LOT of walking in the hills around UW but found nothing (apart from an amazing sunken/below ground level waterfall thing. I'm still convinced it's out there but as I now live in NZ I thought I'd share my "research..."

I always wanted to get a closer look at a field of boulders that could be seen from a distance when stood on top of the Cnicht. A long walk-in granted but there are some good problems done in the gully leading down to the water just after reaching the top of the Cnicht (Huw Williams/Huffs/Bryn etc have done these). The photo attached is of the field that can be seen in the distance from the top of the mountain...

Also, behind Cwm Pennant there is some farmland with some amazing looking rock but the farmer was not keen to let me and Huw check them out (despite asking politely and in perfect welsh!) I'll see if I can find them on flashearth as they really looked (though no guarantees as always) special...