[SA Chris]

Learned something in yoga class today;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ujjayi_breath

While not a massive believer in the more spiritual aspects of yoga, I do believe that some aspects are of benefit physiologically and psychologically.

I think that this, when employed properly, would be beneficial, especially for someone who is crap at breathing on hard climbing, like me.

Any comments, and I apologise if this is old ground.

[webbo]

it might be ok for routes,but bouldering wise you might be better doing like linford and not bothering.

[Johnny Brown]

Funnily enough, I was experimenting with this the other day, in a fashion, whilst failing on a shit sit-down dyno. I was trying breathing in then jumping, and breathing out then jumping, two years of ashtanga having instilled some sense of importance in doing the right one. In the end, some more people turned up and distracted me, and I just did it.

Having said that, I can imagine it will come in use sometime, probably when I'm crammed in some upside down chimney at gogarth, shitting myself.

[Paul B]

it might be ok for routes,but bouldering wise you might be better doing like linford Doylo and not bothering.

[erm, sam]

I went to a yoga class one time in MCR and the teacher had us all doing that. We all did it slowly breathing out together making our puny rushing sound. After we had all stopped or I had stopped, at least, I became aware of the sound of a kettle boiling in the next room. About 2 minutes later I realised it was the yoga teacher still breathing out. I thought he was a nob for doing it so long, but know I know he was meerly emphasing the importance of Ujjayi breath during daily practise.

[Houdini]

it might be ok for routes,but bouldering wise you might be better doing like linford and not bothering.

I've spent a decade holding my breath for power on boulder problems.  Most it ever gave me were a few hard ascents plus piles.  Bleeding from your anus is both painful and humiliating.

Learn to breathe - release that pressure.

[moose]

I occassionally resort to breathing exercises before an attempt, mainly one recommended on ukb (by nibile?).  Slow deep, diaphragmy inhalations and exhalations of increasing and then decreasing duration e.g. in for 3s and out for 3s, in for 4s and out for 4, in for 5s etc (up to 6-7s and then stepwise back down to 3s).  Not sure whether it does any good physiologically but at least the faff encourages proper resting and "serious" attempts rather than wasting beef with ill-considered flapping. 

That said, I suspect calm and inner peace are overrated.  Many of my successes on oft fallen-off projects have been in a state of incandescent frustrated rage (usually at my crapness or iminent rain) and preceded by a bout of stomping around and swearing.  Often much to the amusement of passers by as I'm pretty feeble at "angry".... unfortunately waspish sarcasm towards rocks just isn't reet cathartic!

Regarding breathing on routes, I once read about a relaxation technique which has been of occasssional comfort when a bit gripped (especially just prior to launching on cruxes).  First take a deep, diaphragmy inhalation (via the nose), hold it and then make yourself smile in a really exaggerated fashion.  Hold the grin for a few seconds and then just let all the jaw muscles go completely slack whilst slowly exhaling via the mouth.  Grin-wise I personally I go for what bad fantasy books refer to as a "ghastly rictus"... this has the added plus of really disquieting your belayer (especially if combined with that other staple of bad fantasy: the "hollow laugh").

[Houdini]

Dave Noden was taught a breathing trick by some athlete who climbs at his the Indy wall occassionally.  I seem to remember it involving taking one very deep breath, holding it, releasing, and repeating this immediately before a hard boulder problem attempt.  There was something to do w/ releasing the air at a specific rate before making the hardest move.  I'm not sure if this was some form of powerlifters exercise.  I'll try and get clarification.  Anyways, on savage sit-starts on plastic where pulling off the deck was the crux - I think he said it was really effective.

[SA Chris]

Learn to breathe - release that pressure.

True

I think holding breath will get you up one or two move power problems, but anything 6 moves or longer I reckon it's a bad idea.