UKBouldering.com

Training twice in a day (Read 6641 times)

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 10:57:41 am
What are peoples' thoughts on this? Anyone do it regularly? I'm guessing that multiple power sessions in a day would be inefficient(?), what about power in the morning and endurance or power-endurance circuits in the eve? Or should I just do yoga or go for a run in the morning instead?

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#1 Re: Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 11:15:40 am
I can't see a major problem as long as you are sensible, and train 2 different things in the sessions.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
#2 Re: Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 11:36:19 am
Its known as split sessions isn't it? I'm pretty sure rich was doing two sessions a day whilst training for action. I may be mistaken but I also think Dobbin mentioned Travs doing something similar?
I'd of thought that you would have to be very disciplined in order to stop each session early enough to make the second one valid.

saltbeef

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1456
  • Karma: +51/-5
#3 Re: Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 12:04:16 pm
malc used to
he would generally have sessions lasting about 1.5 hours.
generally this would b things like basic strngth, hard boldering, bouldering mileage or weights/campus. it appeared to work for him.
i don't understand why doing different stuff ie power, power endurance stamina would help. i think this is generally viewed as a simplistic view anyway.
dave mac aludes to the fact he'll do a fingerr boring session before going out cranking. and moon used to get home from climbing and have a finger board session.
there must be somethinng in it, even if its just to pop the odd bit of supplementary exercises that you wouldn't do normally outside your climbing sessions.
how much do you do now? the problem is youur joints might crumble. be honest with yourself is it your strength thats letting you down or is it technique/flexibility/your mind and would time be better spent here?

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#4 Re: Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 12:53:30 pm
I sometime head donw the wall for a bouldering session on my own at lunchtimes and then do routes with g/f in the evening. It's OK as long as you don't overdo either and eat properly inbetween. Cheap option too.

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
#5 Re: Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 06:15:36 pm
the power first, endurance after thoughts came from hearing (not sure where, but i think a few places) that that's supposedly the way to do it. Training power when tired was a waste of time as it doesn't train it well, but doing long-term endurance or SACC or whatever can be done ok towards the end of sessions (or, was my thinking, maybe in a different session later that day with fun fun physics lectures tucked in the middle).
Climbing 4/5 times a week atm, mainly just indoors the last few weeks due to the balls weather.. Technique could definitely be improved, thought I've never worked out how to do this well indoors; the head's pretty good except i need to learn to climb faster when onsighting- particularly on trad -  again not sure how to train that one indoors that well. Flexibility is getting worked on most days anyway, just thinking about best uses for free mornings other than lying in bed. Not going to train twice just yet anyway i dont think as my elbows are a little dodgy (suddenly bouldering inside loads when i'm normally a stamina-trad man is taking it's toll though getting me strong for next summer ;D) Maybe i'll just go running, just a bit unappealing at this time of year!

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
#6 Re: Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 07:11:53 pm
Barrows - I think 4/5 days on the plastic per week is madness given you don't have years of training behind you for your body to be used to it - if elbow problems become a permanent feature it could seriously fuck things up down the line! Elbow tendonosis is pretty gay.. Just think that you shouldn't overcook it. If the end result of all the plastic time means injury then its not really going to translate to monsterhood where it matters... Just a thought anyway -  you ought to build things up over time maybe?

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
#7 Re: Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 08:01:11 pm
the power first, endurance after thoughts came from hearing (not sure where, but i think a few places) that that's supposedly the way to do it. Training power when tired was a waste of time as it doesn't train it well, but doing long-term endurance or SACC or whatever can be done ok towards the end of sessions (or, was my thinking, maybe in a different session later that day with fun fun physics lectures tucked in the middle).

I dont think your plan of a mornings power followed by an evenings endurance, I think its pretty much agreed that stopping whilst still strog (i.e. before failure) is very beneficial for power oreintated sessions so the endurance would just tire you out from your mornings session and lengthen recovery times making your 1st workout less efficient?

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
#8 Re: Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 08:44:47 pm
you ought to build things up over time maybe?

building up over time is for paedos and nonces.
but yes. you're right. i've cut the bar work out of my fingerboard/bar/core sessions to let the elbows adjust to all the bloddering up north..

Paul B: i see what you're thinking, probably right. just looked on the gresham thing and it was chatting about tagging SACC onto the end of power-endurance sessions not strength sessions so prob would just tire myself out. will go running(/sleeping) instead.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
#9 Re: Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 08:49:15 pm
I think it is possible to fit two sessions per day if thats how you want to train (i'm not sure it would be the most useful thing to do for the vast majority of people though)...
If you concentrate your efforts on different parts of the body:
e.g
AM - One armers, pull-ups, lock offs etc.

PM - Deadhangs and core stuff

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#10 Re: Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 09:14:31 pm
I think it is possible to fit two sessions per day if thats how you want to train (i'm not sure it would be the most useful thing to do for the vast majority of people though)...
If you concentrate your efforts on different parts of the body:
e.g
AM - One armers, pull-ups, lock offs etc.

PM - Deadhangs and core stuff
Where does climbing fit in?

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
#11 Re: Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 09:16:26 pm
At the weekend or whenever else you choose to go out?

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
#12 Re: Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 09:26:56 pm

[/quote]
Where does climbing fit in?
[/quote]

Don't think Barrows is ever going to sack a chance to go climbing for training unless Sheffield has had a very bad influence on him... 

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
#13 Re: Training twice in a day
December 05, 2007, 11:22:49 pm
when it stops raining...

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#14 Re: Training twice in a day
December 06, 2007, 07:45:08 am
Your friend 40-1 is right. If you already have the beginnings of fucked elbows then upping your training is insanity.

4/5 times a week is plenty although I see no harm in a bit of running if you're that bored (careful with the knees though). Oh and have a read of this which may come in handy (hopefully not)........

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7927.0.html

Actually this is probably just paranoia because now I'm old I injure so easily.  :'(

Serpico

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1229
  • Karma: +106/-1
    • The Craig Y Longridge Wiki
#15 Re: Training twice in a day
December 06, 2007, 09:41:57 am
I try to train twice a day during the summer. On my last day on I'll do a session on my attic board in the evening after visiting the crag. I'll have something light to eat and a carb/protein drink before leaving the crag, and then train at home about an hour later. I pick my home session to contrast with what I've done at the crag; so if I've been to Malham I'll train big moves and open hand grips/pockets, if i've been to Kilnsey I'll focus on crimps and undercuts. The session are done system style on my system board.
I find this works really well for me as during a redpointing day I might not get a lot of climbing done because of resting/saving myself for a good redpoint attempt. A couple of months of this without an additional training session in the evening and it's easy to let your form slip.

saltbeef

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1456
  • Karma: +51/-5
#16 Re: Training twice in a day
December 06, 2007, 09:51:22 am
nice thoughts serpent.
i found this summer that after solely going to the tor, and rubbercon for about a month i was going downhill purely because i wasnt getting the volume and variety i had when i was climbing grit and at the board/wall. might have to try it.

account_inactive

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2706
  • Karma: +85/-25
#17 Re: Training twice in a day
December 06, 2007, 02:40:08 pm
I think it all depends on your capacity to handle hard training.  After a bit of a layoff I couldn't even consider a 2 tier day. Training different muscles is the way to go, like Paul says, if you think you need the extra push. 

Power should only be trained when you are fresh to get the most gains, otherwise you are just training to do less powerful things when you are fucked.  If I was mainly training PE/E then extra sessions on core/fingers would fit in nicely

joswald

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 24
  • Karma: +0/-2
#18 Re: Training twice in a day
October 15, 2008, 05:24:19 pm
the power first, endurance after thoughts came from hearing (not sure where, but i think a few places) that that's supposedly the way to do it.

Yep Gresham agrees with that.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal