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Blackstones (Read 78453 times)

nik at work

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#50 Re: Blackstones
February 16, 2008, 09:21:36 pm
Downloading as I type.

GCW

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#51 Re: Blackstones
March 16, 2008, 12:42:22 am
Sorry for the double post from the Non-Quality thread.
I hope this works- first attempt at HD vids online:  Lookie here- and full screen it for the full effect.

I'll upload a shitty YouTube vid shortly.  Enjoy.  [feedback welcome]

Nik and I did quite a few problems on the back edge.  Some good stuff available.  If a little wet here and there :lol:

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#52 Re: Blackstones
March 16, 2008, 07:27:52 am
YouTube version here for people with slower connections:


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#53 Re: Blackstones
March 20, 2008, 07:07:45 pm
Another video of the Blackstone bouldering.

Nik repeats Robin's Dyno.
I fail to do it double.
Nik does the FA of an awesome 7a+ traverse.  Love the tarp, but there's a bit of a muddy landing here :lol:



HD version .

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#54 Re: Blackstones
March 20, 2008, 09:05:08 pm
Nik on the previously mentioned fridge hugger:


r-man

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#55 Re: Blackstones
March 21, 2008, 01:02:53 am
Nice shot! Making any progress on this? Looks a lot cleaner now!

Liking the tarp also. Ray Mears would be proud.

nik at work

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#56 Re: Blackstones
March 21, 2008, 03:24:31 pm
Not really :)

The start and finish are both fine, but the middle couple of moves just aren't happening right now.
But once I return with some steely Font beouf it will fall like a world record domino attempt, oh yeah...


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#57 Re: Blackstones
March 21, 2008, 04:27:18 pm
Assuming it doesn't get done whilst you're away.   :whistle:

Which is a fairly safe assumption

nik at work

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#58 Re: Blackstones
March 21, 2008, 04:33:38 pm
You really want to add it to your already lengthy list of things to go back and actually do?.... :)

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#59 Re: Blackstones
March 21, 2008, 05:17:23 pm
Next time.
Fucking next time.

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#60 Re: Blackstones
March 21, 2008, 06:36:06 pm
You want to watch out, i've got my eyes on it!

but yeah, a safe enough assumption that it'll be safe

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#61 Re: Blackstones
March 22, 2008, 11:34:40 pm
Nik's Traverse is such a good problem I thought it merited a better video.  Unfortunately, was the best I could come up with.   :thumbsdown:

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#62 Re: Blackstones
March 24, 2008, 07:33:37 am
Another YouTube quality version for people with slow PCs (Andi_e)


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#63 Re: Blackstones
March 24, 2008, 10:31:47 am



Is there any problems on the boulder with the pod, behind and to the left? Remember playing on that last summer.

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#64 Re: Blackstones
March 24, 2008, 10:34:15 am
Yes.  Left arete 5+
Middle of Slab 6a (see other vid)
Right Arete 6a ish

Left arete round corner- hard project

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#65 Re: Blackstones
March 24, 2008, 12:32:10 pm
Three pics that I took on a trip to Blackstones with Nik at Work and Sloper.







If any one can supply names (and grades?) for these then I will update the photos accordingly.

bluebrad

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#66 Re: Blackstones
March 24, 2008, 12:57:19 pm
Yes.  Left arete 5+
Middle of Slab 6a (see other vid)
Right Arete 6a ish

Left arete round corner- hard project
Left arete 5 tops
Middle of Slab 6a+ (I'm short)
Right arete 5 tops (GCW is a techniqueless donkey - meant in the nicest possible way :))

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#67 Re: Blackstones
March 24, 2008, 08:28:57 pm
Left arete 5 tops
Middle of Slab 6a+ (I'm short)
Right arete 5 tops (GCW is a techniqueless donkey - meant in the nicest possible way :))

The left arete I stay round left.  It's far easier if you rock round right onto the slab when you can.
Slab is a tad height dependant.  6a was the short arse grade  ;)
6a ish, I said.  I always find it tough.  Hee haw, hee haw.

Bluebrad:
First photo- Nik and I did this as "Crack Left"- SDS, get pocket with right, hit top.  Prob 6b/+ (see previous vid for beta etc)
We also did the same SDS, but avoided the pocket and slapped the sloper out right at 6a+/b.
Pic 2:  SDS on crimp and blob, pull on, top out.  Probably 6b+ again.  (We gave it 6c/+ when R-man and I went, but the conditions were cra- see first vid on thread- felt easy the last couple of visits.
Pic 3:  Seen this arete but not tried it.

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#68 Re: Blackstones
March 24, 2008, 08:48:02 pm
Here ya go:



1.  Project-  Arete and thin seam/ crack.  Rubbish landing, and a bit of a disappointment.
2.  Left arete (5)-  Start on the left and move right when it makes sense.
3.  Slab (6a)-  Middle of the slab.  Good.  No crack or arete makes for the best problem.
4.  Right Arete (5+)- Technical arete  :-[

5. Slab (4)- Easy and a bit rubbish.
6.  Left Arete SDS (5+)- Nice moves, hardest is getting established.
7.  Crack Left (6b+)-  SDS the crack.  Get the pocket with your right, then up.
8.  Crack Right (6b)-  SDS the crack.  No pocket, slap out right to the sloper and then the top.



9.  Right Arete (6a)-  Good Moves from a sitter.
10.  Wall (6b+)-  SDS on a good crimp.  Reach the good break, then up.
11.  Nik's Traverse  (7a+)-  SDS the right arete, then traverse left without using the top to finish around the arete left of problem 5.  Excellent, and I'm starting to think 7b is a more realistic grade.  But I don't have stamina.  Or technique.

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#69 Re: Blackstones
March 24, 2008, 09:28:37 pm
Bluebrad your last pic is about 6a+ (although sloper will tell you it's a 4)

GCW you do have some stamina and technique, you just hide it very well under a layer of lank...

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#70 Re: Blackstones
March 24, 2008, 09:37:18 pm
You, Mr at work, are a cheeky fecker  :lol:

Having spent 2 days sandpapering my tips, I may be OK to head back in a week or so.  But you'll be gaining boeuf en Bleau.
So there'll be some

nik at work

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#71 Re: Blackstones
March 24, 2008, 10:03:32 pm
Nice smiley, very nice.

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#72 Re: Blackstones
May 03, 2008, 04:56:46 pm
Enjoyed this circuit a lot. Thought it almost comparable to Thorn Crag and great for anyone based in Manchester.

Climbed most of what was already posted. Liked Nik's arete although climbed it a bit more head on and enjoyed the short easy climbs on the crag at the right-hand area.

Few more lines all on the Pocket Arete block, possibly already done .

1. Excellent 6c ish dyno. From middle of break (obvious depression) dyno with left for the runnel. If you let your hands wander leftwards it makes it a bit easier. This is what I imagined Crash and Gurn at Burbage WAS going to be like.

2. RH version of the above, again 6c ish. From break left foot heal-toe break, left hand crap intermediate sloper, left hand crimp, match crimp, top (slightly scary mantle).

3. Good 6a ish line right of Pocket Arete coming straight out of the small roof.

Thought with these it makes the top area the best at the crag. No photos/vids but fairly obvious.

All the peat was dry so no need for tarp and no green in sight, must be getting a bit of traffic. Great place to visit on a summer morning/evening. Will recommend.

nik at work

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#73 Re: Blackstones
May 03, 2008, 05:28:40 pm
Do you mean that small sharp crimp? We were trying to dyno/slap to it with our right, but it was hard to catch and felt a bit sharp for a dynamic grab.

There are also a couple of low starts on the next block to the left, not classics but add to the circuit.
Also a few problems on a block further left (obvious brushed holds) which are good.
Did you try them?

Did you do the traverse on the blocks at the far right (Niks Traverse, as christened by GCW)?

And most importantly did you do the fridge hugger project?

Also the dyno left of the fridge hugger is really good fun if you didn't try it.

GCW would be keen to hear your opinion on grades I would have thought...


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#74 Re: Blackstones
May 03, 2008, 08:03:59 pm
Yes sharp crimp. Coming up to match with right hand was the crux for me and a great move (all on the heal toe). I started trying your method (right hand first) but deferred to my forte, the gay leg.

Played on anything I could get my hands to on the upper tier.

Thought the traverse was very good (and I don't usually enjoy them), took me a while to work the moves and I finished up the wall after the sloper as I didn't have the patience to watch the video to the end.

Fidge hugger project is safe, felt a bit beyond me. Like you said just that middle move. I was trying to sit all my weight on a right foot on arete but it was beyond the limit of my flexibility and the foot popped every time so . . .

I'm not great on grades but most of what has been stated seemed reasonable.  I lanked the curved wall and the double arete and could do them both at about 5+ but with a little 'proper' climbing the grades felt about right. Lots of the problems esp. upper tier seemed to be around 6b/c range, which meant for my level there was a certain amount of beta/technique that was required. Satisfying comes to mind.

There seemed a huge potential for mantle enthusiasts.

 

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