UKBouldering.com

YYFY!!! (Read 2097359 times)

kingholmesy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 564
  • Karma: +47/-0
#5550 Re: YYFY!!!
August 29, 2015, 10:54:54 pm
Y
Did The Long Run at North Stack today

Nice.  Next stop the Cad then?

Teaboy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1179
  • Karma: +72/-2
#5551 Re: YYFY!!!
August 30, 2015, 12:16:54 am
Nice one Fiend, BIG tick. Tell us the details, how serious?

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4322
  • Karma: +138/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#5552 Re: YYFY!!!
August 30, 2015, 10:46:55 am
How did you manage to get your lard ass up that one  ;)  Good work Matt.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13437
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
#5553 Re: YYFY!!!
August 30, 2015, 09:59:32 pm
Cos it's a slab, buttbreath.

I didn't find it that hard, mostly because the route suited me perfectly - just off vertical, continously tricky but positive moves in between good rests, with fiddly but adequate gear. Conditions were perfect and it was unchalked until the end where someone had done The Clown.

I just loved it, it was like being in a dream where everything is exactly how it's supposed to be, with the climb and my climbing. And yes, there WAS a seal watching. No seal, no Gogarth tick.

Serious? Well there is clearly bomber gear at 8m and then again at 30m.... In between it requires some hunting and fiddling and occasionally running it out. Not too serious if you get it right.

Funny how people often highlight the next big challenge. I hadn't really thought about that. Although, I did do Crimson Cruiser in the Moelwyns today, and that was also fantastic. Quite easy and with the best finish in the history of climbing!!



P.S. Forgot to mention that it was pretty interesting for me to get on something that I hadn't really considered before. Most inspirations I have for years or decades (CC I wanted to do since the photo in the old crimson-spined Tremadog guide!)....The Long Run I had been inspired by for a mere week, which added to the mystery I guess.
« Last Edit: August 30, 2015, 10:11:52 pm by Fiend »

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4944
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#5554 Re: YYFY!!!
August 30, 2015, 10:30:23 pm
Did The Long Run at North Stack today - one of the best climbing experiences of my life. Not the hardest route I've done recently, but it was everything I hoped it would be, utterly engrossing and thrilling :)

Felt pretty hard to me.... good effort.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13437
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
#5555 Re: YYFY!!!
August 31, 2015, 08:39:01 am
You're too strong though ;). Being fat and weak means most of the weight was on my feet...

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29229
  • Karma: +631/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#5556 Re: YYFY!!!
August 31, 2015, 09:02:25 am
Good work Matt on both routes. That photo of CC always inspired me too. I just never did it.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2959
  • Karma: +332/-2
#5557 Re: YYFY!!!
September 01, 2015, 01:20:52 pm
 Well done Fiend.

Two scortching hot days at Wendenstock, Sonnenkoenig and Spasspartout climbed. Tough, sand-bag grades, scary, sketchy approach, brilliant. Everything I'd hoped for.

Now peeing with rain.

kelvin

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1293
  • Karma: +60/-1
#5558 Re: YYFY!!!
September 01, 2015, 01:32:29 pm


 Everything I'd hoped for.


 ;D

Saw some of the pics on Facebook this morning. Nice work Duncan.

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4322
  • Karma: +138/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#5559 Re: YYFY!!!
September 01, 2015, 02:33:08 pm
Nice one Dunc, on the list now haha!

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk


iain

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 672
  • Karma: +31/-0
#5560 Re: YYFY!!!
September 01, 2015, 02:53:42 pm
Good effort fiend!

Two scortching hot days at Wendenstock, Sonnenkoenig and Spasspartout climbed. Tough, sand-bag grades, scary, sketchy approach, brilliant. Everything I'd hoped for.
Nice one, any chance you could put your FB photos somewhere us social recluses can see them  :)

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13437
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
#5561 Re: YYFY!!!
September 01, 2015, 09:20:18 pm
Nice one Duncan. Explain the sketchiness.....the photos look quite civilised? Well, sunny at least.

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#5562 Re: YYFY!!!
September 02, 2015, 09:20:54 pm
Did The Long Run at North Stack today - one of the best climbing experiences of my life. Not the hardest route I've done recently, but it was everything I hoped it would be, utterly engrossing and thrilling :)
Just clocked this. Nice one monster  :)

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8812
  • Karma: +812/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
#5563 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2015, 08:28:44 am
Explain the sketchiness.....the photos look quite civilised?

do you get the camera out when things are sketchy?

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2959
  • Karma: +332/-2
#5564 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2015, 09:29:30 am
Explain the sketchiness.....the photos look quite civilised?

do you get the camera out when things are sketchy?

 ;D

The approach to Vorbau for Spasspartout was no worse than a giant-sized (Cloggy) Eastern Terrace. The Pfaffenhut approach, for Sonnenkoenig, was reminiscent of getting down to obscure parts of the culm coast, on a much larger scale of course. Steep grass and not much solid to hold on to. After a week of good weather it wasn't so bad, any damp underfoot would have made it quite serious.

Andy or I will put together a few photos and notes on climbing at Wendenstock when we get back. It's a challenging place to go rock climbing but the routes look amazing.

 

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3080
  • Karma: +149/-5
#5565 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2015, 09:37:19 am
I heard a story of a certain Alpinist nearly coming to grief on one of the approaches to Wenden. Slipped on the grass and almost went the full distance but landed cat like a few metres below on the slope. It scared me so much I took an axe with me when I went. We retreated from Caminando in a storm. Lots of stonefall... serious place!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=17458

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11
#5566 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2015, 12:45:00 pm
Jericho Road \o/

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#5567 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2015, 01:00:14 pm
Well done beast! Didn't you mean to post that in the "Finally, Finally, Fucking Finally" thread?

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11
#5568 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2015, 01:53:19 pm

Well done beast! Didn't you mean to post that in the "Finally, Finally, Fucking Finally" thread?

That's for Shark to start ;)

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#5569 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2015, 02:06:24 pm
Jericho Road \o/

Found the way at last, well done

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#5570 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2015, 02:43:39 pm
Thank god  ;)

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5531
  • Karma: +347/-5
#5572 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2015, 06:02:04 pm
Jericho Road \o/

Do some bloody work!

Falling Down

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4882
  • Karma: +333/-4
    • bensblogredux
#5573 Re: YYFY!!!
September 03, 2015, 09:04:46 pm

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8812
  • Karma: +812/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
#5574 Re: YYFY!!!
September 05, 2015, 10:02:24 pm
Two week family Font trip booked for Easter

get

in

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal