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Mission: Lleyn! (Read 21394 times)

Fiend

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Mission: Lleyn!
October 06, 2007, 05:23:36 pm
Posting this on here as I reckon at least two regulars will be down with the vibe  :)

Amongst many great features, the fragile but fantastic North Wales Rock has got me unduly and unsensibly inspired for the Lleyn Peninsula. A combination of the spiffing crag photos, intriguing descriptions, benevolent climate and a vague sense that if it got in the selected guide then maybe it is climbable after all. All of that and my own natural perversion for esoterica...

Thus, my mission: Lead (and survive) all the E2-E4 routes in the Lleyn section except Vulture which sounds just too lethal and Samurai which isn't really in the sea-cliff choss spirit. Which leaves me:

Trwyn Maen Melyn
Bardsey Ripple E2 5b - done, cool route, utterly bizarre rock, quite a trip.
Incredible Surplus Head E3 5c - failed, dropped off the finish due to heinous pump, merciless top-out

Pen Y Cil
Manx Groove E3 6a
 
Craig Dorys
Knowing Her E2 5b - done, first Lleyn route, steady and good fun, a bit committing higher up.
Cripple Creek E3 5b
Direct Hit E4 5c
The Mermaid Who Shed Her Glove E4 6a - done, highly terrifying start, looseness less of a problem than lack of gear, still satisfying.
Byzantium E4 6a

Cilan Head
Rastus E2 5b
Path To Rome E3 5c


As you can see I've made a start. In at the deep end with Craig Dorys maybe but it just looked very good. Lucky to be there on a stunning day (could see down to Pembroke), and a really beautiful place. The contrast of it's tranquil setting and the anything-but-tranquil climbing was quite intriguing. Then onto Trywn thingy which was equally beautiful and equally intriguing.

More awaits....!!

A couple of questions for the masses i.e. Pantontino & JB:

> "Gwyna Melange", you made that up didn't you. Although it fits the nature of the rock perfectly!

> On the subject of which, is CD really Arennig Grit (mixed with Shale)??

> Direct Hit - after finding TMWSHG serious enough, I feel somewhat wary about straying away from the crack systems onto the face. Should I be worried, scared, or terrified?? It does look good though...

> Manx Groove - being a groove system with a tidal start, how high is the probability of getting down there, traversing in, and finding it gopping??

 :thumbsup:

clm

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#1 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 07, 2007, 11:40:48 am
if you have not done samurai then itmust be done - it is inly 30 yds from the dea and is outstanding. theres another good route there called ironing which i have heard is unrepeated (take this last sentence somewhat tongue in cheek - the emoticons wont work)
Just berware fiend that you wont necessarily be able to clinb at your grade.

we did wylfa corner by porth ceriad and though the climbing matched the grade the state of the rock and the belay at the top werew disticntly not HVS.


Another top reccomendation is fantan B at trywyn y gorlech.

not done path to rome but JB sings its praises.

i think some of the rcok is a little better in the aberdaron area.

the hvs and e2 traverses at dorys look brill.

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#2 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 07, 2007, 11:50:56 am
Quote
> On the subject of which, is CD really Arennig Grit (mixed with Shale)??

Not in a position to dig out my info on this (did my geology dissertation on Cilan), but I don't think so, from memory. The western crags on Cilan are the grits, much older than pennine grits beinmg Cambrian in age. The shaly sandstones that make up Craig Dorys overlie them with a marked unconformity (representing a period of uplift and erosion before continued deposition) are a fair bit younger - Ordovician - though still pretty old. The best view of the unconformity is at the base of the western end of Dorys where the banded shales that overlie the grits are cut across at the top at an angle by the base of Dorys.

Quote
> Direct Hit - after finding TMWSHG serious enough, I feel somewhat wary about straying away from the crack systems onto the face. Should I be worried, scared, or terrified?? It does look good though...

The Mermaid... got E5 in the last two guides and deservedly so I think, the worst route on the wall revolving around a nasty bold pull to exit the cave followed by easy rambling. Direct Hit is a much better route, I'd say easier overall, though it requires a determined approach for the first twenty feet.
Wanton Desire is the stiffer version moving right above the cave and up a faint seam, and even better. Both involve some bold climbing on snappy holds, though there is loads  of gear in the horizontals there is a big gap to reach the headwall which gives the crux of both. If you've filled the breaks with enough cams though they should be fairly safe. If you get up either ok then Honeydew is very good also, the bold bit is low though making it less safe. Tricam 1 useful.
A good tip on Dorys generally, but Golden wall in particular, is to let the wall get a good baking in the sun and then climb in the shade of late afternoon. The rock is much less snappy when its been properly dried out.

Cripple Creek is very good, first fifteen feet grim then very good, more gear than you can place - a very american style pitch. Byzantium id maybe the route of the cliff though, an amazing pitch, generally steady, crux on the good rock at the top. Other Dorys essential tick is Three Dandy Scuttlers, up the amazing varied terrain right of the Byzantium wall.

Vulture is the big tick really, just to do a route on Cilan main is a major experience. Man up!

As clm sez, Samurai is very good and well worth a visit. Beware the diagram in the guide is wrong - the belay is exactly in the centre of the photograph not the top (belay tat is just visible in top right of photo on preceding page). Follow the text, not the line on the photo, and you'll be fine.

Haven't done much in the Uwchmynydd area sorry!

Pantontino

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#3 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 07, 2007, 02:40:53 pm
It's easy to fall under the spell of the Lleyn Peninsular - it has a peaceful, but slightly unsettling atmosphere. Certainly an intriguing place to hang out.

As JB's post highlights, opinions vary on the grades and quality of routes at Dorys. Part of the problem is that these routes don't receive much traffic (despite this being one of the more frequented crags on the peninsular) and part of the problem is the conditions which can be tricky.

My geology consultant for the entire book was Mike Hammill - it is possible he got some of the rock descriptions wrong, but he's always struck me as being a respectable source.

Apologies about the Samurai topo mistake. Other people have pointed this out - I'm not sure how that slipped through the net? :shrug:

Path to Rome is obviously one to go for, although personally I was slightly underwhelmed by the lack of exposure/position - compare this to any of the Yellow Wall routes at Gogarth for example. That being said, the climbing is interesting, and the rock is quite funky - just make sure your partner is happy leading at least E2 (and that you've got loads of kit, both for the main pitch, and the ab belay). I haven't done it, but I have it on good authority that Rastus is an 'excellent introduction' to the area.

Vulture seems to split folk into those who were utterly terrified by it and those who thought it over hyped. I know someone who did Crow this summer - they were rather shocked at how full on it was. I pointed out that we did put it right at the top of the E5s in the graded list.


Johnny Brown

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#4 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 07, 2007, 07:06:50 pm
Crow is not technically difficult for E5, it can't be that hard either as I don't really lead the grade. Having said that, I obviously wouldn't reccomend it as a good introduction to the area, I saw Sean Myles after he seconded it and he was traumatized. What really upset him was arriving at the second belay to find the Wainwright perched next to the remains of a bolt he'd just destroyed.

grimer

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#5 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 08, 2007, 09:54:02 am
Wasn't Mermaid the one I followed you on Adam? Agree that was bold, E5, although had a pretty crummy line. And yeah, Byzantium is superb. Can't think of a pitch I've done on Gogarth that's better.

Johnny Brown

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#6 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 08, 2007, 06:55:10 pm
The one we did with Gedes? (sp?) No, that was Wanton Desire, which I thought was a good line. Its the only line of weakness up a big section of headwall - not much weakness but enough. The Mermaid... starts up the cave then goes left up the diagonal crack to finish up that death corner you warmed up on.

andy popp

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#7 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 08, 2007, 07:36:16 pm
I think Vulture is undergraded at E4. I did the first pitch much more direct than now described (E5 in itself) but the top pitch, whilst probably not hard E4 in itself, is just in too committing a position. I swung leads on it with an experienced North Wales adventure climber who on the day balked at the top pitch. If I'd been a weaker climber along just to second we'd have been stuffed. The route needs a better than E4 team really.

andy popp

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#8 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 08, 2007, 07:37:51 pm
Meant to say Path to Rome is as good as everyone says and relatively sane. Did Land Rights the same day, this is good and easier but much hairier, we had two very close encounters with loose blocks. As JB says Cripple Creek is fine after first 15' - the grade seemed spot on.

Fiend

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#9 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 15, 2007, 12:32:17 pm
Cheers guys, thanks for all the views!

Just berware fiend that you wont necessarily be able to clinb at your grade.
Bit late for that!! Did have a bit of a moment on Mermaid thinking "WTF am I doing climbing at my trad limit here??"

Will consider Samurai then.


Not in a position to dig out my info on this (did my geology dissertation on Cilan), but I don't think so, from memory. The western crags on Cilan are the grits, much older than pennine grits beinmg Cambrian in age. The shaly sandstones that make up Craig Dorys overlie them with a marked unconformity (representing a period of uplift and erosion before continued deposition) are a fair bit younger - Ordovician - though still pretty old.
That makes sense. CD seems more sandstoney, Cilan looks more gritty.


Quote
The Mermaid... got E5 in the last two guides and deservedly so I think, the worst route on the wall revolving around a nasty bold pull to exit the cave followed by easy rambling. Direct Hit is a much better route, I'd say easier overall, though it requires a determined approach for the first twenty feet.

Hmmm. I would say E4 5c but proper E4 5c i.e. not E4 as in Cannibal or Resurrection E4.

I see what you mean about the quality as regards the balance of the route although I did really like the moves on the lower bit and the wall climbing to gain the corner. I chose it because it was a crack so more possible gear....and because there was some chalk on it....the chalk all stopped before the death crux getting stood out left in the groove though...!!

Thanks for advice on Direct Hit, I will give it a go. I do trust the general cams in break situation, but am wary of the start.

Didn't have any problems with conditions, it was dry and glorious!

Don't think I will try anything harder on Golden Wall though ;).

Quote
Cripple Creek is very good, first fifteen feet grim then very good, more gear than you can place - a very american style pitch. Byzantium id maybe the route of the cliff though, an amazing pitch, generally steady, crux on the good rock at the top.

Cheers. Getting psyched again already!



Fiend

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#10 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 15, 2007, 12:36:32 pm
And more...

It's easy to fall under the spell of the Lleyn Peninsular - it has a peaceful, but slightly unsettling atmosphere. Certainly an intriguing place to hang out.

Spot on, exactly what I felt.

Quote
My geology consultant for the entire book was Mike Hammill - it is possible he got some of the rock descriptions wrong, but he's always struck me as being a respectable source.

I'm sure he's a respectable source.....but on the other hand Lleyn isn't very respectable rock ;).

Quote
Vulture seems to split folk into those who were utterly terrified by it and those who thought it over hyped.


Despite it's stature and JB's recommendation, I still don't fancy it. Too terminal and to be honest it doesn't inspire me aesthetically nor in the style of climbing.

Cheers andy for your input too!

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#11 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 15, 2007, 01:20:08 pm
> Manx Groove - being a groove system with a tidal start, how high is the probability of getting down there, traversing in, and finding it gopping??

Quite slim on a nice day.. it get lots of sun and the rock is a type that dries quickly and its only the starting ledges that are tidal.  The Magic Seaweed surf forecast has a tide graph for Aberdaron here http://magicseaweed.com/Hells-Mouth-Surf-Report/27/ so you can make sure you don't get your feet wet.

Good effort on choosing Doris as the place to bust your Lleyn cherry

You ought to buy the full guide to get properly psyched..




SA Chris

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#12 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 15, 2007, 01:53:19 pm
http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/coast/tides/tides.shtml?date=20071015&loc=0482A

Also tables here. I think BBC is in GMT, but I think MSW corrects for Daylight saving time.

andy popp

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#13 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 15, 2007, 02:50:23 pm
Quote from: Fiend link=topic=8034.msg120278#msg120278 date=1192448192

[quote
Vulture seems to split folk into those who were utterly terrified by it and those who thought it over hyped.


Despite it's stature and JB's recommendation, I still don't fancy it. Too terminal and to be honest it doesn't inspire me aesthetically nor in the style of climbing
[/quote]

No, no, do it, its brilliant, a real trip and a lot of good climbing. Its not so much terminal as just committing as in hard to escape from.

Fiend

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#14 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 15, 2007, 08:01:33 pm
Falling Down - cheers for that, very useful to know it might be okay.

I'll get the full guide at some point but I want a managable ticklist for now.



Andy.....arrrrghhh!! You're no slouch and were suggesting it was "undergraded at E4". People seem to be forgetting how much of a bumbly I am here, lol. I've got to draw the line somewhere ;)

andy popp

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#15 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 15, 2007, 08:44:42 pm
OK, fair enough (though you seem to have done some hard enough routes at Doris) - just didn't want you leaving it for the wrong reason. When you feel ready its more than worth it.

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#16 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 16, 2007, 09:34:57 am
The Mermaid... is undergraded at E4 and the worst route on the Golden wall, yet you seemed to lap it up! Vulture has to be on the list, none of the folks I know who've done it have suggested its overgraded. Go do Path to Rome, then Rastus, and you should be well prepared.

andy popp

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#17 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 16, 2007, 09:52:02 am
Vulture has to be on the list, none of the folks I know who've done it have suggested its overgraded.

Shurley shome mishtake?

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#18 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 16, 2007, 10:03:11 am
Yeah, I meant under, though what I wrote wasn't untrue either.
They think its E4.

Fiend

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#19 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 23, 2007, 08:41:45 pm
The Mermaid... is undergraded at E4 and the worst route on the Golden wall, yet you seemed to lap it up! Vulture has to be on the list, none of the folks I know who've done it have suggested its overgraded. Go do Path to Rome, then Rastus, and you should be well prepared.

LOL, I liked Mermaid okay, it was character building, it had a good line, and the bit from the crux to the corner was a very nice E1-ish thing. I wouldn't say I lapped it up, the most serious thing I've done this year.

I *may* cave into peer pressure and add Vulture ....but then again I might play the "There is no way I'm going to find a poor fool to do it with" card ;). Haven't got a partner for Path... yet!

Fingers crossed I'll be back soon. Think I might aim to do this lot this winter. Feasible yes?


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#20 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 23, 2007, 09:20:48 pm
Feasible if you get on with it yes, bird-bans start in feb I think. Definitely some winter sunshine to be had round there though. Path to Rome and Byzantium both catch the sun nicely.

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#21 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 23, 2007, 11:02:09 pm
One year (94?) in January or February I did the Snowdon Horseshoe in perfect winter conditions with my Dad on a Friday then surfed the following morning at Porth Ceriad and then knocked off a route in the Tyn Towyn quarries in shorts and T-Shirt that afternoon.

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#22 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 29, 2007, 09:13:27 am
Trwyn Maen Melyn
Bardsey Ripple E2 5b - done, cool route, utterly bizarre rock, quite a trip.
Incredible Surplus Head E3 5c - failed, dropped off the finish due to heinous pump, merciless top-out

Pen Y Cil
Manx Groove E3 6a
 
Craig Dorys
Knowing Her E2 5b - done, first Lleyn route, steady and good fun, a bit committing higher up.
Cripple Creek E3 5b - done, wobble wobble wobble at the start, great Dorys climbing higher up.
Direct Hit E4 5c
The Mermaid Who Shed Her Glove E4 6a - done, highly terrifying start, looseness less of a problem than lack of gear, still satisfying.
Byzantium E4 6a

Cilan Head
Rastus E2 5b
Path To Rome E3 5c

Just one small tick from a recent visit, wish I'd had time to do more. Had a closer look at DH and Byz when I was there, really inspired, was lying in bed thinking about them this morning. Was absolutely glorious there again, so much warmer than the crag top.


Falling Down - fancy a weekend there?? Follow me along Path To Rome and I'll be your bitch for the other day ;)

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#23 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 29, 2007, 10:07:30 am
Let me know when you get on Path to Rome, I'd really like to get some pics of it. Plus I can offer some accomodation in the area...

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#24 Re: Mission: Lleyn!
October 29, 2007, 10:10:19 am
Ray did this with hardly any pro.  He didn't have many cams at the time. 

 

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