Peak Lime additions

[Andy B]

Beginners Wall is back towards the tor from Seans Roof (big roof over layby). It's in the trees up the bank from the next layby down the road on the same side as Sean's Roof.

I think Cofe or Scouse said that Beginners Wall was wet Yesterday, as was most of the Tor, but the Traverse opposite Seans, Red or Dead, and Free Range Abbatoir were all dry.

[r-man]

New problem at the Tube from (woz)  looks good! 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZlnKqEiMl0

Nice one!

[Houdini]

No.  Pure scuzz.

[c.j.d.]

Hey, Oddy - are you on some kind of German hardcore come down at the moment, or just nit picking?  What you need is a good bottle of Dows Vintage and a block of Wensleydale to cheers you up...

[rainbow]

New problem at the Tube from (woz)  looks good! 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZlnKqEiMl0

The crux throw looks outrageous!  Only been there twice, hardcore moves in a beautiful setting.

[(woz)]

I'm really glad that you 1. managed to find it, and 2. enjoyed it enough to go back

[andi_e]

You absolute beast dan! looks awesome!

[r-man]

We reckoned Red Or Dead: 7b, and added the sitter to Free Range Abattoir, which adds a good dynamic move off the slopey ledge to the starting crimps,
We both did the traverses as well, which are also very good.

For those who are into the Limestone esoterica, I did three right hand starts to Red or Dead yesterday, all starting on the same flat hold and coming into Red or Dead at different heights. Each sporting good moves on nice (for limestone) holds. About 7b+ whichever way you go.

Had a great session on these on Sunday. Did the two ups, think the consensus in our group was that both were 7b. Did one of the extensions into ROD, following the low line of pockets (seemed like the most obvious line). Good moves. Also did this line into FRA, which seemed a little less pumpy, but still the same grade. 7b+ seems fair for both.

Also did a fun dyno. Another nice bit of movement to add to the entertainment on this wall.

7a+ - Jump the Dead Donkey - From the good holds in the centre, bounce for the top of FRA.

This really is a great mini-crag. Here's a clip of Andy S on Red or Dead:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I37swTdEXPQ

[dave]

thats red or dead innit

[r-man]

Ah, got the lines muddled! Have corrected my post.

[Andy B]

We reckoned Red Or Dead: 7b, and added the sitter to Free Range Abattoir, which adds a good dynamic move off the slopey ledge to the starting crimps,
We both did the traverses as well, which are also very good.

For those who are into the Limestone esoterica, I did three right hand starts to Red or Dead yesterday, all starting on the same flat hold and coming into Red or Dead at different heights. Each sporting good moves on nice (for limestone) holds. About 7b+ whichever way you go.

Had a great session on these on Sunday. Did the two ups, think the consensus in our group was that both were 7b. Did one of the extensions into ROD, following the low line of pockets (seemed like the most obvious line). Good moves. Also did this line into FRA, which seemed a little less pumpy, but still the same grade. 7b+ seems fair for both.

Also did a fun dyno. Another nice bit of movement to add to the entertainment on this wall.

7a+ - Jump the Dead Donkey - From the good holds in the centre, bounce for the top of FRA.

This really is a great mini-crag. Here's a clip of Andy S on Red or Dead:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I37swTdEXPQ

Glad you enjoyed them Robin. I've already done various eliminates on here including FRA as a dyno, which is how i originally did it, and a line straight up the centre using the pockets (which can be used as intermediates on the natural lines), but I think that eliminates on here are better left as things for individuals to work out and play on, rather than recording, as the natural lines are good enough on their own and don't need diluting into an eliminates wall like pinches wall or minus 10.

I haven't done The right hand start into FRA, but i'd be surprised if it was 7B+, as since Ray worked out you can rock over the last move, rather than jumping, the first dyno is the crux, which you would miss out on the right hand start. Meaning once you get to the good crimps you have comparitively easier climbing left than on Red or Dead. If that makes sense? I'll probably try this tomorrow.

The highest version of the right hand start into Red or Dead is worth doing as it doesn't share any moves with Red or Dead, but flows very nicely, with some good crimpy locks.

[r-man]

Glad you enjoyed them Robin. I've already done various eliminates on here including FRA as a dyno, which is how i originally did it, and a line straight up the centre using the pockets (which can be used as intermediates on the natural lines), but I think that eliminates on here are better left as things for

Fair enough. I agree it's not an eliminate venue, but the dyno seemed like a fairly obvious challenge.

I haven't done The right hand start into FRA, but i'd be surprised if it was 7B+, as since Ray worked out you can rock over the last move, rather than jumping, the first dyno is the crux, which you would miss out on the right hand start. Meaning once you get to the good crimps you have comparitively easier climbing left than on Red or Dead. If that makes sense? I'll probably try this tomorrow.

That sort of makes sense, but on the other hand the linking section is at least a grade harder than the direct start to FRA. It's solid 7b on it's own, and there are still a couple of small holds to pull on once you get to FRA. 

The highest version of the right hand start into Red or Dead is worth doing as it doesn't share any moves with Red or Dead, but flows very nicely, with some good crimpy locks.

Sounds good. Next time, Gadget. Next time...

[Andy B]

Have been back and done the low start to Red or Dead from the break under the roof of the cave, via small edges. Any Hole's A Goal, 7c maybe?

Also did the right start into Free Range Abattoir, more good moves, but I still reckon it's easier than Top Shop (the right start to Red or Dead).

This bit of crag now has:

The traverse (in both directions) 7a+
Free Range Abattoir 7a+/b
Red or Dead 7b
Free Range Abattoir Right Hand Start 7b/+
Top Shop Low 7b+
Top Shop Middle 7b+
Top Shop High 7b+
Any Hole's A Goal 7c

plus some good fun eliminates.

[travs]

These sound good, any chance of a small photo topo?

[r-man]

I knocked one up last week actually. Watch this space.

[travs]

Nice one Robin, look forward to seeing it.

[(woz)]

Have been back and done the low start to Red or Dead from the break under the roof of the cave, via small edges. Any Hole's A Goal, 7c maybe?

Did you go from the low break, to the big slopey ledge (via the small crimps), and then up - or directly up to the twin pockets?
I did the first one, and then climbed straight up. Don't know which problem (FRA/ROD) I finished up. I just climb like a free spirit, man. Hurry up with the topo Robin.

[r-man]

Yeah, yeah. I have to keep changing it when people keep climbing new things, as it sounds like you just did (because I assume Any hole's a goal goes up to the two pockets/holes).

Gimme half an hour...

[r-man]

Here it is. Beginner's wall in there too. I used your pic for that Dan.

TOPO



1. 6b - From the juggy ledge, climb to the break.

2. 7a+ - Free Range Abattoir. From the slopey ledge, power upwards to a fingery finish. (Andy Banks)

3. 7b - Red or Dead. From the same start, move right to a pocket, then continue up. (Andy Banks)

4a. 7b+ - FRA lower start.  From the break under the roof of the cave, move left to the start of FRA. Continue. (Dan Warren)

4b. 7c - Any Hole's A Goal. The low start to ROD from the same break, via small edges. (Andy Banks)

5a. 7b+ - Top Shop. From the flat hold, traverse into ROD at various heights. (Andy Banks)

LOW- Follow pockets to the big crimp, continue as for ROD.
MIDDLE - Gain crimp above twin pockets with rh, then left and up.
HIGH – Same crimp with lh, then up with rh.

5b. 7b - Deranged Abbott. Finish up FRA. (Robin Mueller)

[Andy B]

Have been back and done the low start to Red or Dead from the break under the roof of the cave, via small edges. Any Hole's A Goal, 7c maybe?

Did you go from the low break, to the big slopey ledge (via the small crimps), and then up - or directly up to the twin pockets?
I did the first one, and then climbed straight up. Don't know which problem (FRA/ROD) I finished up. I just climb like a free spirit, man. Hurry up with the topo Robin.

Both. Using the same nubbin with different hands, but using an intermediate edge for my right when going direct to the pockets. Thought they were about the same, with the slopey ledge way being a bit easier, of the two ways, for the short, and direct to the slots being a bit easier for the tall, as you don't need to do the pull off the slopey ledge from an awkard position, and it being less dabby. I didn't finish either of them up Free Range Abattoir though, Just Red or Dead.

[Andy B]

2. 7a+ - Free Range Abattoir. From the slopey ledge, power upwards to a fingery finish. (Andy Banks)

4a. 7b+ - FRA sitstart.  From the break under the roof of the cave, move left to the start of FRA. Continue. (Dan Warren)

As Free Range Abattoir is already a sit start 4a is is more of a low/ lie down start.

(woz), did you drop down to the start of FRA or pull up and left from the slots?

[r-man]

Amended.

[(woz)]

2. 7a+ - Free Range Abattoir. From the slopey ledge, power upwards to a fingery finish. (Andy Banks)

4a. 7b+ - FRA sitstart.  From the break under the roof of the cave, move left to the start of FRA. Continue. (Dan Warren)

As Free Range Abattoir is already a sit start 4a is is more of a low/ lie down start.

(woz), did you drop down to the start of FRA or pull up and left from the slots?

I pulled on at the low break, then went RH nubbin, LH Slopey break. RH pocket, LH good Edge, RH crimp stright above, LH crimp at same level, RH jug (ROD line on topo). I didn't know the problems so was just trying to do what I remembered from the vid. I think I just raped both problems, although maybe I did a wierd sequence on ROD. I cant figure it out. I thought 7b+/7c.

When I did FRA, I did the big slap from the start ledge straight to the pair of good holds, then finished as I just described.

[travs]

Hey good topos Robin, look forward to doing the new problems at Sean's roof. Just a small point on the descriptions at Beginner's wall. The first 3 problems, Man of Steel to Swing Time all have a sit start on the big polished foot holds.

[travs]

Just thought as well Robin, if you want to mark up the 2 hard variants on Neil's wall and the sitter, which is the way I did the problems originally. Miss out the left hand foot hold which you move up to the layaway from. I believe this puts the grades back at 7c+ and 8a, or at least it does for someone of my height. I know they're eliminates but the move is very very different, it's up to you. Cheers Neil.