Recreational Violence 8a+

[r-man]

Yesterday eve, just out of the rain
That Polish man was cranking again.
He'd been trying this thing on Beginner's wall -
A huuuge move for him, though he's pretty tall.
Kept slapping the jugs, kept swinging off.
And Dave's not weak, so it was clearly quite tough.

Anyway, last night it all came together
Small crimp, big effort, hold it... Nice one Trevor!
And now he's done it, he wants you all to know
This problem's CLASS. Give it a go...



Really is a good problem. Sit moves are easy, but they make the setup just a little trickier. A lovely right hand undercut leads to a left hand gaston, then a big go-again for a small but positive crimp. From here, in Dave's own words, "REACH FOR THE SKY..."

Oh yes, and the crux is not hitting the top, but holding it. As for the grade, Dave offered a very tentative 8a+, saying it could be easier, it could be harder - it's hard to compare it to anything. 8a+ is based on it feeling a couple of grades harder than Neil's Wall ss at 7c+ (which he nearly flashed).

And here's a video -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4R91a7jhfk
	LQ | HQ

[(woz)]

Not sure about the poetry, but looks like a good, hard move. May well try it tonight. Good work with the reporting R-man.

[r-man]

Not sure about the poetry, but looks like a good, hard move. May well try it tonight. Good work with the reporting R-man.

That aint poetry, just idle rhymes for idle times.

Get to it (woz), you'll like it.

[Pantontino]

Looks like a smart problem.

R-man, I never realised you were a poet.

(...and I'm not sure this convinces me either.)

[c.j.d.]

Where is Begginers Wall, and how do you get there?  Will it be dry?

[(woz)]

Beginner's wall is in blackwell dale, 5 mins drive from the tor. From the tor, drive back out to the pub (Anglers rest), turn left, and follow this road as it goes up and left into the valley. Beginners wall is 20meters uphill from a layby on the left.
As for dryness, I'd say chances are 50:50. Was fine on friday night.

[clm]

does he use a different sequence in the video and photo?

[r-man]

Photos are of a previous session - Dave eventually decided the right of the two top holds was best, and that's what he uses in the video.

Spoke to James today and he said it's currently wet. Give it a day or two of sunshine and it should dry off fast - it has in the past. Once dry it can stay dry for a long time. We've climbed there a lot in the last few weeks, despite the weather.

[Adam Lincoln]

Was wet yesterday, as was Neils prob, etc etc.

[r-man]

Whilst RV might dry out with some sunshine, the other problems haven't been dry for weeks. Not worth going for them unless we get a proper dry spell.

[dave]

It seems someone has moved the block from under this problem, which clears the landing. Unfortunatley they've chosen to leave it right underneath the start of Fossil Wall. This is pretty daft, as what with the bolts as they are you could easily hit this block falling off just before the 2nd bolt on the lead what with the swing you take. And doing the start up to the 2nd bolt above mats used to be a great boulder problem on it own, but not anymore as the landing is now a backbreaker.

Can whoever moved this bock move it well out of the way? Must have been a few of you cos me and scouse couldn't lift it. ok you've made the landing better on one problem but then ruined another. thanks.

[n_man]

Up there a couple of days ago and it looked like the left edge on Neils wall(2nd move after undercut) was smaller or broken, is this true or am I imagining things?