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One armism (Read 27253 times)

Monolith

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One armism
June 04, 2007, 01:28:31 pm
Having some grief with this. I can lock off for a considerable amount of time at 90 degrees and more so in a deeper position. Putting two and two together, it feels as though I should at least be close to initiating a one arm pull from long arm. Alas, I'm not even close. I've got pretty long arms being fairly tall and for time had considered that tall and thin people can't do a one armer until I saw two of my tall hyper-thin comrades do one.

The problem seems to lie in the initial phase of the movement (i.e. deep in the bottom of the lats or wherever it is). What specific positions or movements should I be executing in getting through this trauma-inducing problem? Have been doing locks just off a straight arm on a bar with other hand at the base of a towel on the bar. When will the grief end!?

BenF

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#1 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 01:48:18 pm
Have you tried using your feet, maybe get an egyptian or drop knee in somewhere?


 ::)

Paz

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#2 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 02:01:49 pm
I don't know what you mwan but if you're doing them from a straight arm hang, then that's what `flicked' means, that you jerk your legs to get yourself over the hard bit at the start using cheating momentum.  A lot of other people don't even seem to do them from straight arm and take the tick or waddage.

Paul B

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#3 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 02:31:42 pm
I don't know what you mwan but if you're doing them from a straight arm hang, then that's what `flicked' means,
Not necessarily... you can get over this lower part without resorting to tricks such as this.

Houdini

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#4 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 02:55:40 pm
Have you used a theraband to take a smidgeon of weight when training them?  I find this useful when getting back into it.

unclesomebody

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#5 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 03:06:32 pm
My advice to achieve one armers easily from straight arm is the following;

1. Grow a mullet.

2. Listen to plenty of very good techno.

3. Walk up to a pull up bar, hang straight arm, and then simply start pulling.

Although these steps may be dubious I subjected myself to the following and look what happened;



 ;)

Houdini

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#6 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 03:19:12 pm
(What's on in the background?)

Paul B

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#7 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 03:32:41 pm
look what happened;

I thought by the way that you controlled the negative right to the end that you were going to keep on going. Frankly i'm disapointed.  ::)

Houdini

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#8 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 03:42:23 pm
Frau Grüberdinkle is lovin' the mix upstairs, the bar's got new fingertape, but the magic isn't working!  Fucking mullets!

unclesomebody

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#9 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 03:43:43 pm
look what happened;

I thought by the way that you controlled the negative right to the end that you were going to keep on going. Frankly i'm disapointed.  ::)

 :-[  Sorry. I couldn't keep going because I've got issues with my digital camera. For some reason I can't get it to record a video clip longer than 10 seconds so all the subsequent one armers would have been wasted because no one could see them, and that's all i care about.

Paul B

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#10 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 03:48:09 pm
Anyway with regards to the original topic, Houdini's suggestion sounds like a good 'un however i'd always favour weights and a pulley set up over a theraband, you can actually see how much assistance your getting and hence gauge any progress you make rather than just guessing how far up your holding etc.

Nibile

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#11 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 05:21:19 pm
ive always avoided one armers (except casually doing a few on the beach...)
i used to do them from a deadhang and going up frontal, and its very strenuous on the shoulders.
i havent trained them for ages, but i think that some proper gym style musculation will help, as much as using therabands or such things to take some weight off.
and also doing asymmetrical double handed pull ups, shifting your bodyweight completely on one side.

the question is: are they really crucial? is it really useful to do one or two? in terms of power references, yes; in terms of pure climbing usefulness, i thing no.

Paul B

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#12 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 05:30:01 pm
the question is: are they really crucial? is it really useful to do one or two? in terms of power references, yes; in terms of pure climbing usefulness, i thing no.

Thats something i've pondered a fair few times (especially when someone pipes up to say dave graham can't do one  :shrug: ), for what it's worth I think that one armers are more than just a frame of reference for power (if done in a climbing specific manner), on steep routes and boulder problems the ability to lift your whole bodyweight with one arm is a great advantage as you can obviously pull harder with the assistance of any of the three other potential points of contact. I think a lot of the time people do them as a "look how strong I am" twisting in as much as possible and doing them on the largest of holds known to man, that isn't going to be useful.
Of course all of the above is absoloutely useless on that medium we all love  ??? grit....

Nibile

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#13 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 06:08:55 pm
i agree with you, paul.
what i was trying to mean is that if youre able to do one armers, youll do much better on routes, even very steep, with one or two foot on. but, between getting strong fingers and doing one armers, i have chosen the first.
that last line isnt very helpful to my theory, given my poor list of hard sends.
whatever.

Paul B

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#14 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 06:11:40 pm
I agree fingers are often the weak link...

Monolith

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#15 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 10:45:30 pm
I'll try a)a mullet b)a theraband c)harder d)in the company of proper men.

But seriously, thanks for the words.

Richie Crouch

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#16 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 11:34:54 pm
I wonder if mullet growth is the key to unlocking left-side 1 armers? :-\

Wednesday Tom... we can make the mullet pact and begin the intensive training!

Monolith

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#17 Re: One armism
June 04, 2007, 11:50:31 pm
I look forward to it bitch. Must remember to nab a theraband too.

I really can't fathom the hideous inconsistencies between finger strength and relative lack of arm strength, it's really quite frustrating. Justice must be done.

a dense loner

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#18 Re: One armism
June 05, 2007, 09:24:25 am
from that statement tom are you implying that you have hideous finger strength? monster!

Pantontino

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#19 Re: One armism
June 05, 2007, 09:42:10 am
Well, he has been trying The Sting of late - so he's either got fingers of steel or no nerve endings.

Monolith

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#20 Re: One armism
June 05, 2007, 09:46:57 am
 :lol:

Funny you should mention that Simon, I was champion Knuckles fighter when I was at school. Objectively speaking though, my fingers are somewhat stronger in comparison to my pathetic sparrow arms (which now seem to be the stumbling block in getting through some problems.)

Shall report my findings from the high octane plan I've drawn up.

AndiT

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#21 Re: One armism
June 05, 2007, 10:11:11 am
I suppose it comes down to specifics. You don't need to do one armers on routes, you do need to lock off though which is why so many of us can do lock offs, if one armers were a part of climbing then I'm sure more of us could do them. I'd love to be able to do a one-armer but only to show off, however I'm not willing to take the time out of my already intensive training plan to develop this  :whistle:

Somebody's Fool

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#22 Re: One armism
June 05, 2007, 10:51:39 pm
Was about to add my two penneth worth, and say I find it best if I sit on my arm for half an hour beforehand so it feels like someone else is doing it.  I then read the thread title a little more closely.

Good job I did, otherwise I'd have looked like a right wanker.

Paul B

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#23 Re: One armism
June 05, 2007, 11:36:01 pm
if one armers were a part of climbing then I'm sure more of us could do them. I'd love to be able to do a one-armer but only to show off, however I'm not willing to take the time out of my already intensive training plan to develop this  :whistle:

I reckon at the top end of bouldering and sport climbing they are, thats why i'd also reckon almost all (if not all, watch dave graham on that amazing little things clip and tell me he's really trying!) top sport climbers and boulderers can do a one armer.

AndiT

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#24 Re: One armism
June 07, 2007, 07:13:22 am
Give me an example of where you need to hang from one arm, with no other points of contact and no possibility of matching and then having to lock off to gain the next hold. I've yet to come across this. Maybe plenty of topclimbers can do them, but there are also plenty of shit ones who can do them too. I think SF's one armism is significantly more useful, albeit with slightly less training benefit.

Being able to do one of those crucifix moves off of Mision Impossible however, now they are worth training for...

 

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