[Greg C]

Does anyone know what the top 3 hardest problems in SW England area? I presume they are all on southern sandstone?
Doing a little project all will become clear in time.

Theres that problem James P repeated a while back, don't know the name or grade though...

[Paul B]

this any use:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5488.0.html

[Dr T]

top 3 hardest problems in SW England area? I presume they are all on southern sandstone?

Southern sandstone is definitely in the south-east
southwest, dorset and leftwards on the map...

on portland you've got My chemical Romance and Guy Fawkes both at the new cuttings both V11
then you get into arguments about how hard ball ache or ache ball or whatever it is down in cornwall...

as far as I know (I don't do much SS) the hardest sandstone stuff is about 7c (V9) - cue arguments over grade conversions

[Andy W]

In Cornwall there was this stuff http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5678.0.html and other info on http://www.blocspenwith.blogspot.com/

rumour of some recent hard things on Dartmoor courtesy of James Pearson and Dave Henderson, maybe check Javu.co.uk

[Stu Littlefair]

There's a notable lack of really hard bouldering in the SW. This page was up to date as of 2002

http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/HardDevonBouldering/index.shtml

One of the chudleigh problems is about V10 and excellent. Since then, Dave has added a V12 traverse at hound tor, James did a V9 at Honeybag Tor. I don't know much about the cornish bouldering.

Ken Palmer has also done some pretty hard problems on the South Coast but is his usual modest/secretive self about them Dave Henderson might be able to tell you more, but I definately remember a couple of things that might have been V10/V11.

If your project involves going down to the SW with a bunch of wads you should check out the wall right of Carnage at Hartland Quay. It will definately go, is a great line and would probably end up being the SW's hardest.

[(woz)]

James did a V9 at Honeybag Tor. I don't know much about the cornish bouldering.

Just out of interest, where does this problem go. Had a lovely trip there a couple of years back.

[Andy W]

The list found on this link is for Cornwall, it's a year or so old but nothing majorly hard has been added since!

http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/HardSWBoulders2006/cornish_list.shtml

there is of course lots of potential!

[Greg C]

Thanks for that guys but I've been a bit of a tool, I meant the SE. Thus the reference to Southern Sandstone. Ive pretty much compiled a list of SW stuff. So, does anyone know the three hardest things in the SOUTH EAST?

1. Chimera - Grade? FA:?
2. ?
3. ?

Anyone fill in the blanks above...

[(woz)]

1/2: Keenus was in Climber doing some 7a thing called Poppet's something or other.

[neil h]

Thanks for that guys but I've been a bit of a tool, I meant the SE. Thus the reference to Southern Sandstone. Ive pretty much compiled a list of SW stuff. So, does anyone know the three hardest things in the SOUTH EAST?

1. Chimera - Grade? FA:?
2. ?
3. ?

Anyone fill in the blanks above...

chimera is 7a english, james said about 8a maybe 8a+
there are tones of 6c's but these are all routes.
I think the hardest sandstone boulder problems are around the 7c mark but most involve dynos,

I have been a local down here for past couple of years now and not come across anything that hard, some of the harder routes are classsics and desperate, and you can always solo them with your big balls on.

Also there seems to be reluctancy by the true locals not to say about bouldering, because the rock is so fragile and out of conditions most of the year


If you want a list I can provide you with one.

[Nigel]

Yo Greg just so you don't get baffled Chimera isn't a boulder problem its a top rope route so probably shouldn't be included anyway.

[TomP]

Just saw this thread and thought I mention the bouldering (and routes if you like that sort of thing) in the Forest of Dean, specifically places like Huntshams and Coppet hill. I realise many people are put off by the shoddy looking rock in this area but recent development over the last couple of years has delivered some good problems upto about 7c+/8a, with some projects left to do upto about about 8b. It may not be the best area in the country but well worth seeking out if you're local. There are also some excellent looking routes upto E8 and a huge roof project at Huntshams (for the brave!).

[Greg C]

Thanks for that. Basically there isn't anything above 7c/+ in the SE. Saves some work.

[neil h]

Thanks for that. Basically there isn't anything above 7c/+ in the SE. Saves some work.

in a nut shell yes.


the rock is toooooo shiiiiiiitttttttttttt

[Andy W]

Thanks for that guys but I've been a bit of a tool, I meant the SE. Thus the reference to Southern Sandstone. Ive pretty much compiled a list of SW stuff.

Hi Greg, would be good to see your list of the SW?

[Greg C]

OK, back to the SW here's my list so far...

Mako / Font8a+ (unconfirmed) / Hound Tor / FA:Dave Henderson?
Aching Balls / Font8a / Hartland Quay / FA: James Pearson
My Chemical Romance / Font8a / Portland / FA: Dan Kennard
Guy Fawkes / Font8a / Portland / FA:Jimbo Kimber/John Gaskins/ Dan Kennard? (VARIOUS HOLD BREAKAGE - WHATS THE CRACK?)
Abba Gold / Font8a / Saddle Tor / FA:Dave Henderson
Hidden Traverse Low...There and Back / Font8a / Saddle Tor / FA: Dave Henderson
Ache Ball Font7c+/8a? / Hartlland Quay / FA: Simon Young

Feel free to add corrections/alterations/additions etc. Bare in mind I'm only looking for stuff of 8a or above.

[Pantontino]

James did a sitting start to My Chemical Romance:

http://www.dorset-climbing.com/word.html

[Greg C]

Cheers Simon.

So now it goes...

Mako / Font8a+ (unconfirmed) / Hound Tor / FA:Dave Henderson?
The Black Parade (MCR sitter) / Font8a / Portland / FA:James Pearson
Aching Balls / Font8a / Hartland Quay / FA: James Pearson
My Chemical Romance / Font8a / Portland / FA: Dan Kennard
Guy Fawkes / Font8a / Portland / FA:Jimbo Kimber/John Gaskins/ Dan Kennard? (VARIOUS HOLD BREAKAGE - WHATS THE CRACK?)
Abba Gold / Font8a / Saddle Tor / FA:Dave Henderson
Hidden Traverse Low...There and Back / Font8a / Saddle Tor / FA: Dave Henderson
Ache Ball Font7c+/8a? / Hartlland Quay / FA: Simon Young

[Resonate]

"Mako V11/12 - Head height left to right traverse with a thin section in the middle and an excellent sideways dyno to gain the starting flake on Shark's Fin (problem 32). The grade is unconfirmed and only a guess."

Erm...

[monkey boy]

Guy Fawkes / Font8a / Portland / FA:Jimbo Kimber/John Gaskins/ Dan Kennard? (VARIOUS HOLD BREAKAGE - WHATS THE CRACK?)

I know that Dan repeated Guy Fawkes after hold breakage and felt it was the same. James thought it was easier than 8a when he did it though (this could be due to him being beastly strong however)!

[Doylo]

Danny Cattell did Guy Fawkes post hold, think he thought it was easier than 8a too.