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WCJ Cornice Conditions.... (Read 92792 times)

webbo

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#175 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 27, 2014, 07:57:47 am
Are you not on the wrong cornice.

haydn jones

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#176 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 27, 2014, 08:52:04 am
Oops

masonwoods101

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#177 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 28, 2014, 07:38:36 pm
Bottom break above the slab a hit damp in places but other than that bone dry!  When we where there a guy on the other side of the river started yelling that we where trespassing on a SSSI without the landowners permission. I'd like to say we (4 of us) stayed calm but he was pretty annoyed. He started taking photos on his phone of us taking our gear back down! My guide says as long as you stay to the correct approaches that access is acceptable. Anyone have any info?

shark

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#178 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 28, 2014, 10:12:38 pm
Bottom break above the slab a hit damp in places but other than that bone dry!  When we where there a guy on the other side of the river started yelling that we where trespassing on a SSSI without the landowners permission. I'd like to say we (4 of us) stayed calm but he was pretty annoyed. He started taking photos on his phone of us taking our gear back down! My guide says as long as you stay to the correct approaches that access is acceptable. Anyone have any info?

Likely to be a member of Derbyshire Wildlife. Worth letting Rob Dyer at the BMC know about this incident robd@thebmc.co.uk  Forewarned is forearmed.

masonwoods101

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#179 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 29, 2014, 08:11:46 am
I'll send him an email now

kc

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#180 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 29, 2014, 08:54:38 am
Very unlikely to be The Wildlife Trust. They do not own the crags on that side. There are one or two very disgruntled fishing club wardens/members that shout at climbers whether at that crag or Moat on a regular basis.

masonwoods101

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#181 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 29, 2014, 09:08:20 am
We thought he was a fisherman... Another guy climbing asked who he was representing but the man didn't answer....

masonwoods101

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#182 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 29, 2014, 09:21:42 am
Just emailed rob. Hopefully it's just an angler trying to scare us off... Cos it dry and I wanna go back....

Wood FT

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#183 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 29, 2014, 10:38:40 am
Is free monster looking dry Mason?

masonwoods101

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#184 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 29, 2014, 05:38:08 pm
That's what we where on. Bottom Break slightly moist and the pocket at the start of the crux slightly smeggy. Bone dry otherwise..

masonwoods101

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#185 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 29, 2014, 05:47:47 pm
Plus we moved all the spiders....

Potash

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#186 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 29, 2014, 07:21:49 pm
Spiders removed from a pocket on Brachiation Dance also.

masonwoods101

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#187 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 29, 2014, 07:23:24 pm
Awsome cheers. I hate spiders.

Wood FT

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#188 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
June 29, 2014, 07:40:58 pm
That's what we where on. Bottom Break slightly moist and the pocket at the start of the crux slightly smeggy. Bone dry otherwise..

Great thanks

groovedog

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#189 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
July 01, 2014, 03:33:46 pm
Very unlikely to be The Wildlife Trust. They do not own the crags on that side. There are one or two very disgruntled fishing club wardens/members that shout at climbers whether at that crag or Moat on a regular basis.

Some of the trees under moat buttress have had their bark stripped off low down. Fairly recently. Whether its kids playing, climbers, whoever it looks pretty unsightly and damaging to the trees there. Just thought i'd mention it.

T_B

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#190 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
July 01, 2014, 03:36:08 pm
And at Rubicon

Paul B

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#191 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
July 01, 2014, 04:07:02 pm
Quote
Some of the trees under moat buttress have had their bark stripped off low down. Fairly recently. Whether its kids playing, climbers, whoever it looks pretty unsightly and damaging to the trees there. Just thought i'd mention it.

I haven't seen this, nor do I know a lot about wildlife but I believe Moat was a little sensitive/of interest because it was popular with Otters (unless I dreamed this up), could that be the cause? I've had a brief google but didn't get far.

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#192 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
July 01, 2014, 08:28:13 pm
Got told today that a water bailiff? has also been haranguing climbers on the other side on the Inch Test

kc

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#193 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
July 01, 2014, 08:31:22 pm
Otters are present up a different dale.
One of the many arguments against climbers being there or anywhere upstream is that Otters may wish to use it as a breading site. Whether that is a valid point I don't Know. Apparently they seem to get on quite well in the other location that far more public.

kc

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#194 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
July 21, 2014, 04:53:33 pm
Anybody know about the new (pointless so i'm told) belay between the top of Free Monster and BD?
There are four new routes left of Thatcher Years with what looks like a mix of galvanized mild steel bolts and hangers.
Without studying a reliable guide I can't make out whether they are new lines or straightened out trad retroed.
This has nothing to do with GG Simon, i've already asked.
There is no issue on my part about the ethics of this in particular, it's the use of crap gear that is.

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#195 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
August 13, 2014, 01:16:07 pm
For those interested it was all perfectly dry last night. Seems to be holding up quite well.

There is indeed now a belay between BD & FM, using it would involve pointlessly trashing your rope over the edge of the top roof so we just used the last 2 bolts as usual. No idea what the intention was for the belay but it seems pretty useless.

wsmith

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#196 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
October 05, 2014, 11:28:35 pm
All dry today.

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#197 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 21, 2015, 05:17:33 pm
Anyone know what it's like at the moment, looking to come up on Sunday but don't really fancy the tor or kudos  wall. Chee  dale cornice conditions
?

ChrisC

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#198 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 21, 2015, 10:40:24 pm
Chee Cornice was still damp last Saturday. Unleashing right was dry. Powerplant was getting there as was the middle bunch of 7s. Left hand side a waterfall. Nook a bit manky too, but a couple of dry routes.  Rest of the looked pretty good.

AlistairB

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#199 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 22, 2015, 11:00:09 am
I'm guessing no but anybody know the state of the WCJ cornice? Most interested in Rumble. Will try and take a look myself this weekend if not, just considering my options for an evening hit.

 

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