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WCJ Cornice Conditions.... (Read 93093 times)

north_country_boy

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WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 09:40:06 am
Paid my first visit of the year to WCJ Cornice last night and was amazed to find it so dry already! Brachiation Dance and Free Monster were dryer than they were last July/August with only tiny patches of damp.... :great:

Whole of the cornice was very dry but very very dusty......not sure if a hold has broken off the bottom wall/slab of BD but it felt harder than I remember!?  :-\


Paul B

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#1 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 11:19:19 am
yeah I was there with Fi at the end of last season and she was saying the same thing. Didn't reckon it was any harder just a different sequence was needed.

north_country_boy

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#2 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 11:40:49 am
Probably no harder for someone of my height or taller but for anyone shorter using the same sequence it must feel desperate...

Any plans for rebolting/requipping low-offs here?

Paul B

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#3 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 11:47:18 am
It just means you have to get your foot onto that little nubbin thing a bit earlier thats all.

....and I believe there are plans.
To be honest this would be one of the areas I would be happy to carry out the bolting as I've spent a lot of time there over the last few seasons although I reckon that Kristian (sp?) has done a fair bit on some of the routes such as Rumble and Monsterosity. Out of interest does anyone know who rebolted Disillusioned?. Anything you noticed in dire need? a proper lower-off on free monster perhaps? On Yorkshire 8b left hand finish I didn't really like the look of the extender which had a 'glued shut' snapgate on it...

north_country_boy

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#4 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 11:58:24 am
Free monster could do with a low off but best having a maillon on last bolt to strip it.....

I think it has a new bolt in it aswell, just below the jump/lunge for the flake....(new bolt is about 6 inches below old one next to crimp and nipple)

I'd be more than happy to lend a hand with some rebolting work here...

Paul B

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#5 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 12:03:36 pm
That bolt was there last year, i'm fairly certain it was anyway. There was a fair bit of faffing on that route last year by various parties with extended slings and all sorts being used on the 'new' bolt.

north_country_boy

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#6 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 12:33:28 pm
yeah i heard somethign about Rob Smith (?) having that extended or missing it to do the crux, pretty big/nasty fall I suspect! and rather bizarre seen as youn have the pocket to clip off next to it?

Paul B

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#7 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 12:40:40 pm
I can't remember who it was but someone was taking some nasty falls back onto the bottom bit of the route because of bolt selection...Is that your project down there?

north_country_boy

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#8 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 12:48:43 pm
yeah need to finish it off sharpish, fell off last moves over top twice last year....

Bonjoy

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#9 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 12:55:28 pm
 Yes WCJ Cornice is a priority for re-eqipping. With my plans this year I have little time to do any bolting personally so it's mostly up to volunteers like your good selves.
 The plan is to have a bolt placing workshop at somewhere like Horshoe to get people up to speed on safe placement. Was discussing this with a chap from the BMC last night. No concrete plan yet, but will post a thread if and when we get something together, so all willing people can come along.

corniceman

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#10 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 01:23:21 pm
I understood from Bonjoy that he would organise a collective re bolting trip down to the Cornice. I havent heard anything recently.
Glad it seems to be drying off OK and I wouldnt worry about the grey stuff too much as it goes very quickly after a working session. The barometer for a dry season is often the seapage around the hole on Eclipsed, I wonder what that is like?

north_country_boy

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#11 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 01:31:33 pm
Yeah I expected DGM to be soaking still but it looks drier than last summer like the rest of the crag. Looks like it will be a good season!!  ;D

I'd be really keen to help out with the requipping of this fine crag, and the bolting workshop sounds like a good idea too! :goodidea:

Bonjoy

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#12 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 02:36:26 pm
I understood from Bonjoy that he would organise a collective re bolting trip down to the Cornice. I havent heard anything recently.
Glad it seems to be drying off OK and I wouldnt worry about the grey stuff too much as it goes very quickly after a working session. The barometer for a dry season is often the seapage around the hole on Eclipsed, I wonder what that is like?
I've a meeting with BMC and Derbyshire Wildlife Trust next week. Hopefully this will get us permission to go ahead with the blessing of all involved. Glad to hear you're still keen.

ned

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#13 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 20, 2007, 10:53:03 pm
Quote
Out of interest does anyone know who rebolted Disillusioned?.

Big Dave H. from leicester did it. I think he also put the bolt in Free Monster.

Paul B

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#14 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 26, 2008, 08:30:38 pm
Had a quick look at the Cornice today:
Routes left of the Weakling all looked dry, Yorkshire 8b and Zippys routes.
The rest of the routes were hampered by seepage from the mid height roof although generally things looked encouraging.

I was surprised to see that the crag was fully visible from a long way off and that you could see the hoards of people on the other bank.

dobbin

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#15 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 30, 2008, 03:01:29 pm
Now then not dan varian - I need to finish free monster too, so am keen to come down with you. Will PM my number.

Paul B

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#16 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
April 30, 2008, 03:08:02 pm
dobbin are you getting confused? I think Dan posted last year.

dobbin

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#17 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
May 02, 2008, 03:44:17 pm
dammit! damn you and your eyes! Its this cold. Doesnt bode well for the Masonators introduction to the tor tomorrow does it?

Quote from: Dobbin being random
Ah yes Dave, this is a great little route - A little Extra its called (pulling on to hooligan), gadzoooks man, its gotten much harder - something must have fallen off...

And, that explains why Not_Dan_Varian was confused when I quizzed him about it at the Foundry. These Stimulant decongestants are clearly stronger than I thought....

Joepicalli

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#18 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
May 03, 2008, 12:48:13 am
OK confused and hopeful now. Is Free Monster dry?
Any answers (OK not any, accurate) before about 11am tomorrow much appreciated.

north_country_boy

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#19 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
May 03, 2008, 01:23:31 am
very unlikely Joe......Malham is though!  :)

Paul B

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#20 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
May 05, 2008, 05:43:39 pm
Had a quick look at the Cornice today:
Routes left of the Weakling all looked dry, Yorkshire 8b and Zippys routes.
The rest of the routes were hampered by seepage from the mid height roof although generally things looked encouraging.

I was surprised to see that the crag was fully visible from a long way off and that you could see the hoards of people on the other bank.

abarro81

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#21 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
May 18, 2008, 12:28:20 pm
Yesterday: brachiation dance wet from middle bit, freemonster dry but damp in backs of some holds, albatrossity and monsterocity both had peeps on but both had wet bits. Apparantly had got wetter than it was mid-week, presumably the rain from friday eve coming through quickly..

dobbin

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#22 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
May 21, 2008, 02:32:01 pm
yesterday - BD pretty dry, free monster bone, disillusioned had a wet hold in the middle, but otherwise dry.

Has anyone done dole 89?

Bonjoy

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#23 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
May 21, 2008, 02:38:43 pm
I did it when it was 7a+, but not since the hold broke. Soz

Paul B

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#24 Re: WCJ Cornice Conditions....
May 21, 2008, 02:41:45 pm
Havent both of those routes kind of merged into a new line that zippy bolted? which is about 7a/+ ish?

 

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