[Greg C]

Just like Mr. Harris Nigel Kershaw took a prolonged trip to Hueco Tanks to prepare and condition himself for more important issues in Trowbarrow quarry...
http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/8.html

Really good problems I can't see why they've been overlooked for so long   

[GCW]

I've looked at these lines (from the ground) on previous visits, but never bothered trying them as they looked nails.
I'm surprised local activists have missed them though 
Well done nonetheless 

[a dense loner]

not too mention the last ascent of freds bleeding brothers, another V12, before the hold was mysteriously snapped off between nige leaving it in the dark, as per usual, and irish si going to do it a couple of hours past first light. i think the moral of the story is that si is a jinx

[Greg C]

I'm surprised local activists have missed them though

To be fair Nige is a local activist.

[GCW]

To be fair Nige is a local activist.

You know exactly what I meant.  Don't be facetious 

[c.j.d.]

Hey Greg - they sound pretty cool, but how about the traverse into the end of Ru's problem from the hanging prow/undercuts on the right?  Pretty tricky/burly.  I tried this briefly a few weeks back, but na bit damp and all that.  V.Good...

[Nigel]

Interesting, never thought of that! Good vision Chris, those undercuts are begging to be pulled on but I've never figured a line to continue on once you're off the ground!  That would be burly definately, I did a sit into the V4 groove once where you had to slap the slopey jug as a backhand. It was nails and I imagine you'd have to do something similar on your concept but with a few extra hard moves.

If you're back again then the link of Wheelbarrow into Vitruvian Man would be a good project and I guess solid 8a+ (7c+ into 7c+). You could also do a traverse along the undercut feature on the other side of the boulder, starting on Funk Phenomenon or the finishing jug of this and finishing up Texas Hold 'Em. I'd guess at 8b/+? Plenty to do! There tomorrow anyone? I am! 

[BenF]

Hi Higel, how's it going?

On a total tangent to this thread (as is usual for my postings), someone told me that you'd told their mate that Woodwell was dry (if you get any of what I just typed!).  Is this really true?  I find it seriously hard to believe given that the monsoon season has barely finished.

[Nigel]

Its going good, just got back from Hueco and back onto the local limestone, and as such I can state that Gaskins' problems are still the hardest in the world by miles. So I'm happy. 

The rumour you heard *was* true. I went last week for a look and you could have done most problems at normal Woodwell bar Art Of... cos the undercut is always wet. However I went yesterday for another look and it is now saturated. O'ert Road is dripping under the roof too. So don't waste your time - go to Trowbarrow instead! Greg also reported high levels of dryness at Fairy Steps, I imagine Warton will be dry, Transgenic is dry, Cringlebarrow is prob dry, Farleton will be dry too. I'd give Woodwell another month at least.

[BenF]

Its going good, just got back from Hueco and back onto the local limestone, and as such I can state that Gaskins' problems are still the hardest in the world by miles. So I'm happy. 

Good stuff, I heard that you had a good trip out there. 

The rumour you heard *was* true. I went last week for a look and you could have done most problems at normal Woodwell bar Art Of... cos the undercut is always wet. However I went yesterday for another look and it is now saturated. O'ert Road is dripping under the roof too. So don't waste your time - go to Trowbarrow instead! Greg also reported high levels of dryness at Fairy Steps, I imagine Warton will be dry, Transgenic is dry, Cringlebarrow is prob dry, Farleton will be dry too. I'd give Woodwell another month at least.

I figured it would be all fucked at Woodwell, but I may head back up to Warton soonish.  And I've yet to visit Farleton, so that may be worth checking out soon too.  Anyway, it's a bit academic because I'm unlikely to leave grit alone for a few weeks.  I guess I'll be "semi local" again up at the Carnforth limestone in a month or so, but certainly won't be up there after work for a month.  See you soon no doubt.

[GCW]

I was up at Warton Pinnacle 3 weeks ago and apart from the occasional streak it was dry.  COLD but dry.
I keep saying I'll go to Farleton but I've never got around to it 

[Nigel]

No doubt you will see me soon Ben, it'll be time to battle my Woodwell project again soon so I'll surely be there every day failing as usual.

GCW, don't be too disheartened about not going to Farleton, there's not that much there. In fact there's about 5 problems, and the're all over the place. And some are a bit shit, like Whiteout and Surfer Rosa. However New Rose is worth a special visit cos its so good. After that you can try The Coil, 7a, which is the hardest rock climb in the world.

[GCW]

Nigel:  Yeah, I really want to get on New Rose.  Looks ace:

Is it over at the break or is there a lot above that?  Wondering as I usually end up going alone.  Do I need a spotter or can I plummet with impunity?

[Nigel]

There is a bit more above the break but its easy so essentially it is over, but I would check it out first if you're on you're own as there's an awkward block beneath the problem which would be nasty to fall onto from up high. Up to the break is OK though. Bear in mind that its actually twice as big as it looks in that picture because Tom is 15ft tall.

[Gareth Parry]

Was up there on monday and everything is fairly dry. Texas is a great problem, thought more 7b than 7b+ though. Most of Woodwell is good as is Transgenic. Are you out there next week Nige? You can mail me on contact@gazparry.co.uk

[Johnny Brown]

What grades that New Rose there? I might give it a go if I'm ever stuck in the area again.

[r-man]

7b

http://lakesbloc.co.uk/26.html

[Fiend]

Mr Brown would be more interested in English 7b I'm sure 

[Johnny Brown]

Not on limestone! Crikey.

[Somebody's Fool]

I don't know about that.  You were looking pretty strong on Perfect Day Direct Start the other day. I know it's not strictly limestone, but similar in style.

It's 6c is it not?  With an extra pint of lime cordial in the morning, along with a bacon butty, I should imagine you'll be cruising the hallowed 'English 7b'.  Limestone or not.

[Nigel]

Was up there on monday and everything is fairly dry. Texas is a great problem, thought more 7b than 7b+ though. Most of Woodwell is good as is Transgenic. Are you out there next week Nige? You can mail me on contact@gazparry.co.uk

Yes after I did it again last week I'd agree with 7b, in my defence I'd just got off a transatlantic flight. And I'm crap. Thanks for saying its good though. Fine effort on all the ascents, very impressive, especially Anesthesia! No-one should be flashing anything on those holds unless they're climbing naked. I'm not about anymore though as I've moved back to Sheffield, though I'm sure I'll be visiting at some point.

Adam, New Rose is made of limestone. 

[Johnny Brown]

I do have a geology degree. I have done some great routes on limestone, it is not the rock I mock.
I heard Gaz had been training by doing front levers under park benches.

[Monolith]

Was at Trowbarrow on Saturday. Texas Hold Em is a class problem Nigel good work. Initially pulled on, went to intermediate sloper/sidepull block then dynamically spanned to the lip. Only problem was that I used the two finger pocket for my left hand which brought about a camming effect that nearly snapped my fingers! Then worked out the shallow incut crimp was the way forward. What I can't work out is the feet. Have a feeling my sequence for this last bit is duff so any ideas gratefully received...

[Nigel]

Surely if you can reach the ledge from the undercut in the crack you are too tall to be let loose! It sounds like you are doing a lot different to me, so I'll briefly go over what I did and you can probably put it together with your sequence and get it done.

Started on left hand in crack undercut, right on blocky sidepull (your intermediate?). Pull on (incidentally I've heard rumours of jump starts getting done. This is not Bas Cuvier. In more ways than this.) Get a right kneebar, come into "fin" undercut with left, static to ledge with right. Get this quite far right so you can match into the left end of the ledge with your left hand. You do this by taking right foot out of the kneebar, putting it on an edge, and toehooking left behind the fin where your left hand is (make sure to leave room for your toe here!). Get the best bits of ledge (couple of very slight thumbcatches help here), cut loose, right heel up, rock out to slopey top.

It may be more logical to pull on with your left on the fin in the first place, you might then be able to get away without the kneebar. Dunno, never tried it.

Good luck...

[Monolith]

Thanks Nigel, much appreciated. Yes, I'm pretty tall and reached the ledge spanned out to buggery and shit myself when I couldn't get my fingers out of that self-camming position! I'll be sure to note down that sequence for the next session - very systematic method I must say. I tried one method using a heelhook to get onto the shelf using the toe of my other foot to oppose it. Worked quite well but I'll stick to the words from the wise. When I was pulling on, I assumed that your right hand would be on the fin with left hand in crack. Now I know better I can thankfully visualise what you say. Cheers, may see you there at some point.