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Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity (Read 5361 times)

1000.dave

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Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 08, 2007, 01:29:55 pm
 :shrug:

Okay having forked out £3.50 to read about strength endurance training in climber, i am totally confused. On page 58 of MAR07 issue Dave Binney writes that you should climb four sets of ten moves with about short rest in between. Do this four times. (roughly!) On page 59 he writes you should do between 60 and 120 moves 'per interval set' with 60 secs in between. On 8a.nu website Steve McClure recommends between 60 and 120 moves with about 3 to 5 mins in between. These all contradict each other.... Can someone who understands this please explain?!....

Nibile

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#1 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 08, 2007, 01:57:20 pm
tough subject...

i think its more correct talking about aerobic capacity, and from that notion seeing where the anaerobic limit sets. it is the highest pulse ratio you heart can work at without burning oxygen, so the meeting point between the most intense effort and the longest time of activity. this will differe from one person to another.
to start fixing things, you need to always check you heart ratio. then approximately calculate the anaerobic limit making 220 (pulses per minute) minus your age, more or less, depending on you resting pulse. if its high youll prolly reach you ana-limit sooner, so adjust things in order to get the exercise done.

so, to work at the ana-limit, you have to know your pulse and adjust the intensity of the exercise, to suit it to the number of moves you want to train for, that, taken isolatedly does not have a clear meaning: 60 moves on vertical wall jugs wont challenge your anaerobic limit, while 15 on steep ground edges prolly will.

then adjust rests in order to never fully recover, having the shortest rest that enables you to complete the following exercise. this may differe from set to set.

so in brief its a long work to do even before really starting training. far better training fo power. ;)

webbo

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#2 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 08, 2007, 01:58:06 pm
i have always understood the interval process as working like this{my knowledge comes from using them in cycling}
you want to be able to do a route with 50 6b moves on it.so you do various strengh training/bouldering so you are strong enough to do a 6b move.you then try it again with lots of rest.you then shorten the rest as you get stronger/fitter till you don't need a rest.

webbo

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#3 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 08, 2007, 02:02:17 pm
the bit about max h/r being 220 minus your age is bollocks.according that calculation my max h/r should be 169.however i can get up to 193 with out to much trouble.you need to do a ramp test.

Ru

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#4 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 08, 2007, 02:04:34 pm
I started replying to this then decided that I didn't understand it either.

Nibile

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#5 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 08, 2007, 02:09:16 pm
the intervals thing works but climbing isnt math.
you may also need to do a few 5c moves and then one 6b and then on 6a and then one 6c and so on, so its more complicated. but if you train for just one route thats your project it will work i think.

as far as the max h/r, thats not my idea, i dont write books, i only read them. as i said, its different from man to man, especially between people with some physical background like cycling, running, swimming, and people with power oriented sport background like lifters, throwers and so on.

its also proven that the ability of working at high rates with oxygen can increase with age, but dont ask me why.

1000.dave

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#6 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 08, 2007, 02:12:07 pm
Hello Ru. Falling of last moves of 8c's?!? oops.

This stuff just doesnt follow! There about four pages of utter bollox as a reply from Messers Nibile and Webb which i was hoping to avoid. Does someone actually understand this? Even Dave Binney contradicts himself as far as i understand it! What intensity, how many moves and how much rest? I'm not intersted in suggested routines, what my mate does kind of answeres etc

Ru

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#7 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 08, 2007, 02:14:01 pm
No, last moves of 8c+s, not that that made it any more fun.

Nibile

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#8 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 08, 2007, 02:26:47 pm
Hello Ru. Falling of last moves of 8c's?!? oops.

This stuff just doesnt follow! There about four pages of utter bollox as a reply from Messers Nibile and Webb which i was hoping to avoid. Does someone actually understand this? Even Dave Binney contradicts himself as far as i understand it! What intensity, how many moves and how much rest? I'm not intersted in suggested routines, what my mate does kind of answeres etc

so if youre not interested in routines why you ask for them? i call intensity, number of moves and rest a routine.
ahh, whatever.

1000.dave

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#9 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 08, 2007, 02:32:30 pm
Nibile, i dont mean to upset you (much) but my heart rate wont effect the localised pump in my forearms. There isnt a problem with the blood supply to my arms!

Nibile

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#10 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 08, 2007, 02:40:00 pm
dave,
i dont want to upset you either.
my reply was trying to give general help, since i dont know what you want to train for, how much work you can sustain, how much time you can dedicate to training, etc.
i think we have very different ideas, though, cos i always thought that pumped forearms deal alot with blood supply, and for this reason i will let others give advice, to both me and you.

1000.dave

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#11 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 08, 2007, 03:15:16 pm
Ru, have you got any ideas then??? cos me n Nibile are stuck. My thoughts are Steve McClures advice on 8a.nu is the best so far. Its most like the routes we climb (okay not 8c for me), its simple, and it corresponds with some of what Dave Binney says on page 59....

?????

erm, sam

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#12 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 08, 2007, 06:58:55 pm
I was going to try and unpick the problem by suggesting that maybe Dave Binneys thinking is related to PE traing for boulderign (but the rests are too short I think) where as the McClure is on about PE training with massive euro clipups in mind.. But then I thought "bollocks to that". The best thing is to keep a accurate training log and use that to gauge the effectivness of different training regimes on ones person....

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#13 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 09, 2007, 02:39:30 pm
Is it not just a mix up of two training goals?

4x4's on bouldering walls are for strength endurance

Interval routes are for sissy volume endurance.

Any descrepencies between lengths of sets and stuff is going to be down to the specific type of climb you wish to do. I think you will have to do the hard work and plan your precise training using Steve Mclures sound advice as a guide.

1000.dave

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#14 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 13, 2007, 01:58:27 pm
Dunno Richdraws, its not what it says in the article by DB. I can understand your logic though. Its been four days later since my first post and it seems no one really knows for sure (or no one is really interested! :boohoo:). Maybe Dave Binney could explain ???

Andy F

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#15 Re: Dave Binney re:Anaerobic Capacity
February 14, 2007, 11:55:37 am
Serpico would be the man to ask (presuming he's back from Nice) as his training system is scientific to say the least.

 

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