[MB]

Now before anyone says it I know that the routes are awesome and why go bouldering there? well I want to! I have heard that there are plenty of excellent problems, but not yet found very much information on areas/problems. So do any of you lot?

There are a few web sites with lists of problems but no info on where they are for grades around 7a-7b.

These are the places I have been to so far; Hulk Block, Boys Temple, Neudorf, Vergense Welt, Klaugameur and a few random problems at various route crags.

[jwi]

I vaguely recall that there was some agreement among locals some time ago not to publish info on bouldering, due to some access thing. That might be the reason you haven't found much information.  So ask around, ehh, pretty much as you do now. Sorry for this truly useless answer. Did some bouldering in Frankenjura in 98, but don't remember much of it.

[MB]

That is the problem. I have a couple of topos from the above places which i copied out of the older frankenjura guides and thats it really.

[zemike]

which areas you´re interested in? as far as i can see from your list you´ve been to most of the extensive areas. there´s an area called the blairwitch blocks above the trubach valley with more than 5 contrived problems. and some areas in the krottensee forest (eastern fj) clustering around AD and on the opposite hill (the fietz parcours), above maximilians cave... and there´s the tunnel above the schwalbenloch.
check the frankenjura.com database for bouldering. check boulderrausch.de and/or ask there for specific areas.

[r-man]

Think there might be some Frankenjura bouldering on this DVD - http://rokbuk.de/

[Doylo]

There is absolutely shit loads of quality bouldering in the Frankenjura but the problem is its all on private land so they won't release a guide ever cos it'll fuck up the access. We got lucky and scored a local when we went in 2004, i think this is the only way to find the good stuff. The documented stuff like Klagemauer and Neudorf is pretty shit.

[rginns]

**** ANCIENT THREAD RESURRECTION ALERT! ****

Ok, It looks like I'm heading to Bavaria next week for a meeting, but I'm likely to have an afternoon in the Frankenjura area and I can take my climbing shoes... hence the thread revival.

Does anyone know if there is any up to date information on easily accessible bouldering in the Frankenjura? I operate up to around 7A. Online downloadable topos would be awesome, but that might be pushing it....

If not, I guess I could go running (boo!)
I've looked at the above links, which I've not found massively useful for the info I'd like, so I'm after any other knowledge.
Cheers!

[rginns]

eek.I'm guessing people don't boulder there too much !
Or it's still a bit banned... if anyone has any knowledge please let me know!
Cheers

[Gallant]

James Malloch of this parish visited the Jura over summer this year, from what he told me, bouldering is reasonably off limits still (although people clearly still do go, there's no actual access agreement). He seemed to think the best way to get anything done or any info is to know or meet a local out there, and be shown around. I'm afraid I've not personally been though, so couldn't put you in touch with anyone.

[Muenchener]

eek.I'm guessing people don't boulder there too much !

Er, nope, but ....

Or it's still a bit banned... if anyone has any knowledge please let me know!

Not exactly banned as such, but there's an agreement not to publicise so as not to jeopardise access - lots of the spots, as already mentioned, are on private land / in ecologically sensitive forest areas that wouldn't stand a lot of traffic etc.

I don't have any insider knowledge of prime local spots; the bits I know tend to be low traverses at the bottom of routes crags, but maybe ok for one afternoon. For example you could look at:

- Weissenstein RH side low traverse, 6c+ route grade, a bit polished, crappy & cliched but a "classic" in some sense
- Grüne Hölle low traverse below Isolation etc. - 7A/+ ish
- low traverse left of Devil Wall at Hexenküche 7A+ - actually there are a few things in that sector, topo here

[rginns]

Thanks Gallant!
Like I say, time is limited and it would be good just to get a feel for the area, somewhere I've never been, so what you've mentioned is great, thanks!

[rginns]

Thanks Gallant!
Like I say, time is limited and it would be good just to get a feel for the area, somewhere I've never been, so what you've mentioned is great, thanks!

Meant to also say thanks Muenchener!
Was at Hiltpoltstein this afternoon - although the traverse was wet, the eisblock roof was dry and provided a couple of hours of entertainment, THANKS

[James Malloch]

As John said I was out there in June and there's plenty of potential for some bouldering. We met a guy who said there were 1000+ documented problems, but you had to know someone who had access to any topos or knowledge/get in with the scene.

He was trying/did a really cool roof/lip traverse which weighed in around 7C. Though I found some lanky beta and did what he said was the crux first go so I think it's a fair bit less my way (though I didn't try the full problem due to lack of mats). This problem was to the left of Wall Street at Maximilianswand area. Very obvious and worth a go.

In the same general area there was Steinerne Stadt near the Waldkopf, there were some guys there with pads trying various things. Looked like there were some okay problems to the left of the main tower that you first come to, also there were quite a few traverses around there (on big holds though). A guy we were with said there were some little roofs next to the path behind the first towers whcih they'd had boulder sessions on as well.

The above two could be combined to have a good day or two out maybe? Though I can't comment much on the quality of the second area...

The only other problem that I knew was the Wolfgang problem "The Falklands" to which Jerry added a huge extension at around F8a-b, which is climbed ropeless as the ground follows the roof in a spiral. Jerry's is called "England grüßt Falkland" and is in guide books. The finish is the wolfgang problem which climbs an awesome roof on pockets. I think it gets 6C+ but in reality it's probably more towards 7B, not that I did it. There are a few bits on this section that we made up but nothing great. This was near Grüne Hölle.

The faulklands is from 1.35 on this video

There are some other videos of various problems online too but I'm not sure they give locations.

[Muenchener]

Was at Hiltpoltstein this afternoon - although the traverse was wet, the eisblock roof was dry and provided a couple of hours of entertainment, THANKS

Wow, you really managed to pick the day the Indian Summer ended. Yesterday was the worst weather we've had for weeks. Glad you still managed to get something done.

[rginns]

It was really bad!!
What an area though, it could turn anyone into a sport climbed, the routes look A's!