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Author Topic: little women kentmere  (Read 1303 times)

Offline Owen

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little women kentmere
« on: December 05, 2006, 10:04:32 am »
Had a look at this Saturday, will be spending a lot of time in Grasmere for the next 2 years and fancy a long term project. Any beta?
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Owen

Offline chappers

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #1 on: December 05, 2006, 10:25:13 am »
give the greg chapman a pm.
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Offline Greg C

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #2 on: December 05, 2006, 01:03:03 pm »
Although I have not done this problem it's fair to say it's pretty basic - i.e. You need to be pretty strong on steep thin ground.

Starts low to the right of the Conor in this image...



...moving into the position he's in (just before the crux) and then either make a way hard move off a pathetic crimp or a big span up leftward, after that it's relatively straight forward. Theres no tricks as far as I'm aware it's just hard - probably 8a+.



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Offline chappers

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #3 on: December 05, 2006, 01:28:51 pm »
just remembered what this line looks like :o good luck!!

greg, you are dangerously close to your sixth hundred and sixty sixth post...



peak on saturday? dave is meeting me over there...
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Offline Owen

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #4 on: December 05, 2006, 02:24:44 pm »
Thanks for that might be way beyond me but that Tourniquet looks a good line to have a go at. The overhangs were dry on sat too does this last over winter or does it get sopping and not dry till spring?
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Owen

Offline Greg C

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #5 on: December 05, 2006, 04:27:28 pm »
Quote
The overhangs were dry on sat too does this last over winter or does it get sopping and not dry till spring?


This block remains incredibly dry, I remember the Gaskins telling me he originally did some of the hard lines during a particularly wet spell when knowt else were dry.
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Offline Greg C

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #6 on: December 05, 2006, 04:33:35 pm »
Quote from: chappers on December 05, 2006, 01:28:51 pm
just remembered what this line looks like :o good luck!!

greg, you are dangerously close to your sixth hundred and sixty sixth post.

peak on saturday? dave is meeting me over there...


Thought I'd make you the subject of 666, hope I don't die after work on the drive to the board! Might have to reply to any old shit to undo the hex.

Might be interested in coming to the Peak if the weathers crap up here, although I do have a new crag (thats right entire crag :dance1: ) to develop so I'm heading there weather permitting.
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Offline Greg C

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #7 on: December 05, 2006, 04:34:33 pm »
Right that's the hex undone... phew.
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Offline Dave Westlake

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #8 on: December 05, 2006, 07:10:08 pm »
Quote from: Greg C on December 05, 2006, 04:33:35 pm
Quote from: chappers on December 05, 2006, 01:28:51 pm
just remembered what this line looks like :o good luck!!

greg, you are dangerously close to your sixth hundred and sixty sixth post.

peak on saturday? dave is meeting me over there...


Thought I'd make you the subject of 666, hope I don't die after work on the drive to the board! Might have to reply to any old shit to undo the hex.

Might be interested in coming to the Peak if the weathers crap up here, although I do have a new crag (thats right entire crag :dance1: ) to develop so I'm heading there weather permitting.



NEW CRAG!!!?!?!?!!????   :o  Any clues?  rocktype?  go on.... :please:
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Offline chappers

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #9 on: December 06, 2006, 10:40:53 am »
Quote from: Greg C on December 05, 2006, 04:33:35 pm

 hope I don't die after work on the drive to the board!



you ok man?

hippy dave, online, whatever next? see you saturday fool for cup o tea as we watch the rain on the window...s of the climbing works (wet weather plan) if not the terrace is all mine ha ha  :lol: ha ha
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Offline JohnM

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #10 on: February 08, 2010, 03:29:36 pm »
Has anyone got any beta on this?  I managed to pull on from the minging crimp and good left sidepull and climb to the top, and I managed to pull into the position before you go for the good left sidepull by placing a heal on the good lower edge but getting to the good side pull seemed impossible.  From reading Dan Varian's blog it sounds like he used a gaston instead of pulling on the crimp to get the good side pull.  Does anyone know which hold is the gaston in question?  Also, what is considered the low start and which starting holds was it repeated from?
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Offline slack---line

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #11 on: February 08, 2010, 03:40:12 pm »
Probably already seen them in the blog, but some pics from beastmaker flickr stream
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Offline Ru

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #12 on: February 08, 2010, 03:49:20 pm »
Quote from: JohnM on February 08, 2010, 03:29:36 pm
I managed to pull on from the minging crimp and good left sidepull and climb to the top, and I managed to pull into the position before you go for the good left sidepull by placing a heal on the good lower edge but getting to the good side pull seemed impossible. 


This is 'the' move - after getting the left hand sidepull it's not to bad, and the first two moves are also not too bad. Dan did it back handing the small undercut in the middle of the overhang. It's not a bad undercut when you're up on it, but from below it's terrible.

The lower start doesn't even look possible. It starts down and right - almost at the start of Shadowplay.
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Offline JohnM

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #13 on: February 08, 2010, 03:52:59 pm »
Yeah I've seen them cheers but I can't tell what holds he's using.  It's way beyond me anyway but has drawn me in because I managed it from a few moves in!  Quite an inspiring 'bloc' though despite the horrendous nature of the mid-crux crimp.
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Offline carlisle slapper

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #14 on: February 08, 2010, 03:59:11 pm »
Beta:

from sidepull to top = 7B+ish (bit easier than kylie to the left)

Starting from large flake (RH) and LH in big foothold (there is a big pocket there now which never used to be there, however it makes up for a massive hold which i ripped off when trying the extension, so no change in grade.

So from here there is an ok move to the small crimp (LH) then LF in the big hole, bump RH to put heel on then:

A: original Gaskins sequence, yard off the tiny crimp to the sidepull, (8Bish atleast)

B: my slightly easier alternative of using the undercling as a gaston and getting sidepull with LH (hard 8A+) low percentage but easier than The G'quence.

C: Mickys sequence: sounds like the best option but i haven't tried it. get sidepull with RH off the heel and come back into the undercling with LH then roll out upto the pocket. Could well be desperate as Micky isn't short on power, but from the sounds of things this makes the most sense, as you get to use the heel for longer and he did it pretty quick.

LW RH starts for reinvented, (i emailed gaskins about this and got a nice detailed reply) but seeing as though that has broken, you'd have to start in shadow play (which it traversed through!) which is still utterly desperate. I was starting with RH on a shadowplay hold and LH on a chalky poor gaston, then a hard move to get an undercling and the big flake.

good luck
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Offline JohnM

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #15 on: February 08, 2010, 04:17:38 pm »
Thanks a lot for that, I didn't think about using the undercut as a back hand gaston.  I may go and have another play before getting shut down!
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Online Richie Crouch

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #16 on: February 08, 2010, 06:00:42 pm »
I like this talk of shouldery gastons in a roof. Let me know when you plan on going John!  ;D
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Offline JohnM

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Re: little women kentmere
« Reply #17 on: February 08, 2010, 08:07:57 pm »
Will do Rich.  I need to get inspired by a hard bloc and work something that isn't in the cave!  Going to try and have another two sessions on it and see whether it is possible for me.  Just built a similar move on my board and spent an hour falling on my arse!
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