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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 1921831 times)

rodma

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#5000 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 15, 2016, 07:42:34 am
The vid deffo isn't the 7b version. This is the 7b version:


That isn't the original either, since it topped out within the scoop rather than slapping back left.

The original was a total sandbag though, since the end was harder than the end of El Paso due to topping out from the bad holds one move short of the jug

rodma

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#5001 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 15, 2016, 07:54:25 am


Cheers Tom! Was just going to post that... Looking forward to seeing Part 2!

Also, can anyone confirm the Clandestino grade for what was done? I've seen various methods for this and various grades.... Seems most likely that the 7b version avoids slapping out left as was done on the vid?

What the geezer did in that video, claiming 7a I've no idea. There supposedly is a 7a at that end, but we couldn't find anything hard enough that wouldn't have been an eliminate.

We ended up climbing in between the two cracks not using either for hands, only the thin slopers. Felt desperate, but wasn't anything like the original line. Old geezer there said what we did is what most people now do, doing it as a directed line/ eliminate.

I haven't been able to find a video of the original and when I tried it I couldn't do it so reached right to to El Paso instead :)

fatneck

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#5002 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 15, 2016, 08:15:02 am
Yeah we were confused and what you did sounds right. Richie always said the what he did (the video Dave posted) felt like it was going too far left!?

the_dom

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#5003 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 15, 2016, 11:27:31 am
The vid deffo isn't the 7b version. This is the 7b version:


That isn't the original either, since it topped out within the scoop rather than slapping back left.

The original was a total sandbag though, since the end was harder than the end of El Paso due to topping out from the bad holds one move short of the jug

I did it as per the video, which felt the most natural / 7Bish way.

I also remember flashing the '7A' and thinking that it felt quite a lot easier than some other 7As that I've done in Font.

rodma

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#5004 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 15, 2016, 04:53:51 pm
The vid deffo isn't the 7b version. This is the 7b version:


That isn't the original either, since it topped out within the scoop rather than slapping back left.

The original was a total sandbag though, since the end was harder than the end of El Paso due to topping out from the bad holds one move short of the jug

I did it as per the video, which felt the most natural / 7Bish way.

I also remember flashing the '7A' and thinking that it felt quite a lot easier than some other 7As that I've done in Font.
Which video, the house one, or the other one? The other one is nails, the house one is nothing like 7b

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the_dom

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#5005 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 16, 2016, 05:47:39 pm
The vid deffo isn't the 7b version. This is the 7b version:


That isn't the original either, since it topped out within the scoop rather than slapping back left.

The original was a total sandbag though, since the end was harder than the end of El Paso due to topping out from the bad holds one move short of the jug

I did it as per the video, which felt the most natural / 7Bish way.

I also remember flashing the '7A' and thinking that it felt quite a lot easier than some other 7As that I've done in Font.
Which video, the house one, or the other one? The other one is nails, the house one is nothing like 7b

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The vid Dave posted and that I quoted. The Climbing Beta / House video version is where the 7A line in the guide goes, but it's easier than 7A.

rodma

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#5006 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 16, 2016, 06:56:31 pm
Good send :D

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the_dom

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#5007 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 17, 2016, 07:38:44 pm
Good send :D

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Awesome problem. One of my favourite in the forest.

monkoffunk

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#5008 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 18, 2016, 07:45:03 am
A couple of problems on Portland Bill including possible first ascent of maybe 7A? In guidebook says unclimbed and doesn't seem to have been written up anywhere. Worth a write up even if turns out someone else did it years ago, it's pretty good!


Duma

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#5009 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 19, 2016, 01:18:27 am
One from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.

Nice one Dave
Has anyone short tried this. I'm stumped  by the move  at 40 seconds? Cant keep right right foot on and get the base of the crack.....😖

How short is short? Craig isn't tall but did it basically the same way.



Lovely video guys.
You dont have to defend your tallness, it's something to embrace David.  Guess I mean is there another way other than having your right foot up. Googling it I came up with the news item on nwb. Maybe an alternative sequence there
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=639

I should head back fresh to be honest, only tried it after being on harder things in the Pass, plus it was seeping, add to that my fear of open water and hill walkers and I was definitely handicapped.....

Barrans does it here:

Coops_13

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#5010 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 19, 2016, 10:59:41 am
A couple of problems on Portland Bill including possible first ascent of maybe 7A? In guidebook says unclimbed and doesn't seem to have been written up anywhere. Worth a write up even if turns out someone else did it years ago, it's pretty good!


This does look good  :thumbsup:

JackAus

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#5011 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 20, 2016, 11:56:36 pm

Denbob99

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#5012 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 26, 2016, 12:41:45 pm
Evidence that Anti Hero does actually dry occasionally, and excellent dancing.


Krank

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#5013 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 26, 2016, 01:28:55 pm
excellent rock dance

a dense loner

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#5014 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 26, 2016, 06:40:00 pm
Uppsala looks good! Though very rough.

Anti-hero looks good too. Is that forest rock?

monkey boy

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#5015 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 27, 2016, 07:18:28 am
It is. I think it's a good little venue, nice picnic area for the family too and a very short walk in!

andy_e

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#5016 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 27, 2016, 12:15:41 pm
Some recent non-quality from me:



fatneck

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#5017 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 27, 2016, 12:22:55 pm
Nice work with the Crag Hill vid Andy. Proper good crag that...

andy_e

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#5018 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 27, 2016, 07:37:43 pm
Cheers, it's a pretty good venue!

Kingy

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#5019 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 28, 2016, 10:36:32 pm
Here are 4 problems from the right end of the Tor, Steve Millerband, Boyband, Bluehumps and Blueband


Stewart

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#5020 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 31, 2016, 09:18:16 am



A short cautionary tale of the dangers of unclimbed rock featuring an excellent new problem around 7B+ at Sandyhills in D & G.

highrepute

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#5021 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 31, 2016, 09:29:11 am
ouch!

SA Chris

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#5022 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 31, 2016, 09:43:12 am
Close call. I'll post up some of my snapper vids sometime.

Luke Owens

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#5023 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 05, 2016, 01:02:41 pm
North Wales bouldering footage I previously thought I'd lost spanning the last couple of years plus some more recent footage from this year. 26 problems from 6A+ to 7A+


jfdm

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#5024 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 06, 2016, 11:13:34 pm
Like the vibe on this one.
Maybe the format for Olympic bouldering?

 

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