UKBouldering.com

Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 1922224 times)

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3633
  • Karma: +199/-3
#3725 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 20, 2014, 08:49:12 pm
Inspired by Andyd's recent vid I went to West Chevin and had a great time / did my first 7a in ages.


Health Warning - includes graphic scenes of offwidthing and a bit of Phil Collins.






Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#3726 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 21, 2014, 09:39:39 am
Ste and Ryan both cheated too (Steve with some crazy ass midget sequence), so the real FA is still up for grabs ;)

What's the crazy midget sequence?

Having done Powerband / Staminaband by every variation that there was in the old days, it is definitely considerablly easier (particularly on Staminaband) to do the finish that way instead of the proper way as holding the pocket when a bit pumped is way more tricky than swinging down to the hold on the pillar. I can only imagine the difference is magnified by adding the Boy Band start into it.

So good effort Barrows but surely someone with your boredom threshold levels of stamina should have the proper finish as  a goal.  ;)

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
#3727 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 21, 2014, 10:47:32 am
What's the crazy midget sequence?

IIRC Steve gets pocket with lh, rh goes to minging little pocket undercut on back wall, then lh to pillar.

Having done Powerband / Staminaband by every variation that there was in the old days, it is definitely considerablly easier (particularly on Staminaband) to do the finish that way instead of the proper way as holding the pocket when a bit pumped is way more tricky than swinging down to the hold on the pillar. I can only imagine the difference is magnified by adding the Boy Band start into it.

Yeah, no doubt would add to it. I'd never tried the go-again method until I tried this link and was pleasently surprised by how easy it was. Steve said solid 9a for him, I suspect that will be the case for anyone using the dropdown finish, especially if not lanking down to the toe hook under the pillar that some of us tall folk use for the dropdown move.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#3728 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 21, 2014, 10:54:29 am
Going straight to the pillar is steady if you're tall. That's how I first did Staminaband but was made to feel guilty so did it again with the drop down.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#3729 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 21, 2014, 11:00:15 am
What's the crazy midget sequence?

IIRC Steve gets pocket with lh, rh goes to minging little pocket undercut on back wall, then lh to pillar.

That sounds  :sick:

Having done Powerband / Staminaband by every variation that there was in the old days, it is definitely considerablly easier (particularly on Staminaband) to do the finish that way instead of the proper way as holding the pocket when a bit pumped is way more tricky than swinging down to the hold on the pillar. I can only imagine the difference is magnified by adding the Boy Band start into it.

Yeah, no doubt would add to it. I'd never tried the go-again method until I tried this link and was pleasently surprised by how easy it was. Steve said solid 9a for him, I suspect that will be the case for anyone using the dropdown finish

Makes sense ta.

Going straight to the pillar is steady if you're tall. That's how I first did Staminaband but was made to feel guilty so did it again with the drop down.

I hope it was your own conscience that made you feel guilty Doyle.  :ang:

Probes

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Wood Abuser
  • Posts: 1068
  • Karma: +46/-2
    • Crusher Holds
#3730 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 21, 2014, 12:38:34 pm
Some Dow action.. good problems up there..



monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1194
  • Karma: +65/-0
#3731 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 22, 2014, 09:21:26 am
Offering from a few days of limestone last week.

<iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/92445989" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="">317 Miles: Wales and Woodwell</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/davidmason">David Mason</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#3732 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 22, 2014, 10:12:41 am
Some Dow action.. good problems up there..




Nice.  You make Daggermouth look like a sport/ endurance route!!!

Whyatt

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 191
  • Karma: +9/-0
#3733 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 26, 2014, 09:37:34 pm
Bens roof 7c+:


205Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1148
  • Karma: +126/-0
#3734 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 27, 2014, 06:15:59 pm
Want to escape the Bank Holiday crowds next weekend?


GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#3735 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 28, 2014, 06:53:29 am
Want to escape the Bank Holiday crowds next weekend?

Then come to Lancashire.

Probes

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Wood Abuser
  • Posts: 1068
  • Karma: +46/-2
    • Crusher Holds
#3736 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 28, 2014, 10:50:25 am
Some Dow action.. good problems up there..




Nice.  You make Daggermouth look like a sport/ endurance route!!!

Just making sure I enjoy every move  ;D

Gus

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 313
  • Karma: +87/-0
  • Smash It In!
#3737 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 28, 2014, 11:07:25 am
Should have got a bit of "Predator" style gun show footage for that tree pulling down peakoteria scene!!

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#3738 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 28, 2014, 11:57:46 am
Nice one Chris. Good film and good footage that shows the problems really well. I had to listen to the first half with the sound off though. Font grades for the highballs would have been useful.

One question: Why did you cut the tree down? And is it wise to show that on video wrt access and portraying climbers? (I don't have a problem with it myself)

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9932
  • Karma: +561/-8
#3739 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 28, 2014, 01:18:48 pm
IMO it's not the sort of location where it would create access issues. It's half way up a steep rubble bank below an overgrown disused quarry, in the middle of a fairly thick wood well away from paths or dwellings. Also there has been a fair bit of tree/rhody clearance (not by climbers) not far away. The tree itself is/was a spindly sycamore among a host of other spindly sycamores.

205Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1148
  • Karma: +126/-0
#3740 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 28, 2014, 05:17:13 pm
Should have got a bit of "Predator" style gun show footage for that tree pulling down peakoteria scene!!

Have you seen the size of my pathetic arms? I'm not sure the special effects budget would have been big enough to give me arms like Arnie!

Nice one Chris. Good film and good footage that shows the problems really well. I had to listen to the first half with the sound off though. Font grades for the highballs would have been useful.

One question: Why did you cut the tree down? And is it wise to show that on video wrt access and portraying climbers? (I don't have a problem with it myself)

Thanks. I think we've already established that not everyone has the same tastes in NQBV music  ;). I try and put a selection in but you're never going to please everyone. Fair point about highball grades, I just went with accepted guidebook grades but agree font grades would be useful for anyone attempting a ground up / flash etc.

I knew someone would ask about the tree! Pretty much what Bonjoy kindly wrote but also:

If you fell off you would have clattered into the tree without a doubt. You can see the position of the tree when I'm cleaning the route. I could have climbed it with the tree in place at E5ish and while I doubt it will ever have a queue of ascentionists I felt it was more likely to appeal as a paddable highball than an esoteric solo. You can't see it in the video but I trimmed the stump back too so the landing was flat.

Removing the tree will hopefully make it a bit more open to sunlight so it might not end up covered in moss again quite as quickly as it might have done.


b3n99

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 257
  • Karma: +35/-0
#3741 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 29, 2014, 01:25:05 pm
Manages to get to the Lake District for the first time over the Easter break and had a great trip with some awesome weather. Put together this video with some of the best stuff. 5 amazing spots, cant wait to go back.


Mike Tyson

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2075
  • Karma: +94/-2
#3742 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 29, 2014, 05:20:12 pm
 :great:

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8810
  • Karma: +812/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
#3743 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 01, 2014, 11:18:06 am
Dolly crushing Jihad at Curbar

sorry to all the Dolly fans for taking so long getting it onto the interweb


Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#3744 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 01, 2014, 11:36:11 pm

I knew someone would ask about the tree! Pretty much what Bonjoy said. Although he's already been proven to be a choad on such matters.

Removing the tree will hopefully make it a bit more open to sunlight so it might not end up covered in moss again quite as quickly as it might have done.

Choad!

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#3745 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 03, 2014, 01:02:00 pm

Luke Owens

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1311
  • Karma: +66/-0
    • My Blog
#3746 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 03, 2014, 10:42:18 pm

haydn jones

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1044
  • Karma: +95/-2
#3747 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 06, 2014, 11:59:14 pm


So apparently I did bullet a weird way, had never seen how to do it before. Anyone else done it the same way? Also does anyone know what the problem I did at the start is?

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#3748 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 07, 2014, 03:12:36 am
That birds all limbs! I've seen a couple of people do bullet that way, missed out any nonsense

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2006
  • Karma: +83/-0
#3749 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 07, 2014, 10:42:57 am
Missed out the first 2 moves of Beretta as well - just saying

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal