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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 1921907 times)

The Aaronator

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#1100 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 05, 2010, 09:48:22 pm
First vid with the new camera....


What crag [where] is this?

benj_d

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#1101 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 05, 2010, 09:51:21 pm
First vid with the new camera....



Is eatswood rocks not banned anymore?

north_country_boy

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#1102 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 05, 2010, 09:58:12 pm
First vid with the new camera....



Is eatswood rocks not banned anymore?

Yes. so try to be discreet.

benj_d

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#1103 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 05, 2010, 10:28:29 pm
First vid with the new camera....



Is eatswood rocks not banned anymore?

Yes. so try to be discreet.

Is it quite common for people to climb at banned areas? I've always thought people just accepted it was banned and never climbed there but it appears i am wrong..  :shrug:

Johnny Brown

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#1104 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 06, 2010, 03:07:16 pm
Most bans are for good reasons and should be observed.

The odd ones are solely due to a miserable dog-in-the-manger attitude by the landowner, and once negotiations have completely failed its up to you really. Just try not to make the situation worse, ie keep a low profile, and if confronted be friendly, leave if asked, and try to show your activities are doing no harm.

Situations change, and future negotiations can benefit from an established record of trouble free access, even if not sanctioned by the landowner at the time. Much of the free access we enjoy now had to be fought for in the past.

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#1105 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 20, 2010, 06:28:01 pm
http://www.sloper.ch/sloper_movies.php?src=sloper_peak.mov#sloper_movie

Non quality filming but quality top-roper abuse  :lol:

rodma

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#1106 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 22, 2010, 08:41:31 am
Here is a supremely poor quality vid of just about the only prob in Hueco that did not load my ring finger.




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#1107 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 22, 2010, 09:07:07 am
Roddy, your style is far better than Dave Graham's.

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#1108 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 22, 2010, 10:20:25 am
Good effort that.

rodma

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#1109 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 22, 2010, 12:45:03 pm
Roddy, your style is far better than Dave Graham's.

Thanks  :-[, but bear in mind there is a pretty good (ie small campus-rung sized) hold, where there only used to be a little razor, which is the only reason that I could do it.

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#1110 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 22, 2010, 02:47:44 pm
You're right Roddy, that is extremely poor quality - but my word did you crush it!  ;D

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#1111 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 22, 2010, 02:53:28 pm
Thanks  :-[, but bear in mind there is a pretty good (ie small campus-rung sized) hold, where there only used to be a little razor, which is the only reason that I could do it.

Nice one loon. Does the breaking hold affect the grade? Or is that the grade post hold breaking?

Adam Lincoln

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#1112 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 22, 2010, 02:56:56 pm
Thanks  :-[, but bear in mind there is a pretty good (ie small campus-rung sized) hold, where there only used to be a little razor, which is the only reason that I could do it.

Nice one loon. Does the breaking hold affect the grade? Or is that the grade post hold breaking?

Used to be V13, then hold broke and now it has settled at V11/12 ish

ferret

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#1113 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 22, 2010, 10:04:38 pm
the hold breaking made it significantly larger.
roddy bloody good effort with that sequence ill giv u v12, i couldnt cut loose with my hands in that position, neither cud i span to go again to the fingerlock jug (prob v11 if u can).
super tall people can now do it with double knee bars (basically cheating) as a new foothold also appeared, looked more v10 if u could use this sequence. really cool problem whichever way u do it.

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#1114 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 23, 2010, 10:04:02 am
the hold breaking made it significantly larger.
roddy bloody good effort with that sequence ill giv u v12, i couldnt cut loose with my hands in that position, neither cud i span to go again to the fingerlock jug (prob v11 if u can).
super tall people can now do it with double knee bars (basically cheating) as a new foothold also appeared, looked more v10 if u could use this sequence. really cool problem whichever way u do it.

It was a tallish guy who gave me all the beta, he was using the fingerlock but not the kneebars. I found cutting loose and trying to get the heelhook on the crux. It's a weird problem, you end up doing quite a few moves in a row with your left hand permenantly under load on the same hold (for about 35 seconds). Despite it not really hurting my finger, it was ringing afterwards mind, but well worth it  :)

ferret

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#1115 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 23, 2010, 11:56:14 am
tried the beta u used but thought it beastly, good effort again dont think many people (are strong enough to) do it that way!! from the finger lock could do the heel and release ok, but the mishapen stumps i call arms werent keen on reaching that far (as hard as i tried to persuade them). could get the hold if i went in one go (no intermediate just past where you had your right hand) but was too stretched to get it at the right angle to fingerlock it.
the knee bar beta invloved using the same right hand as you, but having double knnebars on the good left hand hold and the reaching the fingerlock with lefthand kneebars still in  :o needless to say you have to be pretty tall to pull that off. big difference between doing all the moves from 2 good kneebars instead of a crap footchip and a scabby upsidedown toehook hence my v10 guestimate.

bad luck on anal intruder, aparently Ann Summers have a range of training accesories which might help  ;) ;)

hope you had a good trip in the end effort on the beastlyness again  :)

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#1116 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 24, 2010, 10:36:16 pm


One of the new St Bees South problems, I did this on Saturday not long after the first ascent. Pretty soft for 7b, tricky first move. Nice little problem.

It was the only bit of climbing all day, we drove from Glasgow to a wet Trowbarrow then to a wet Bowderstone then finally to St Bees.

Fail   :'(


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#1117 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 24, 2010, 10:52:15 pm
You should have read my Trowbarrow report!!

I hope that's the approved sequence :lol:

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#1118 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 24, 2010, 11:01:10 pm
You should have read my Trowbarrow report!!

I hope that's the approved sequence :lol:

We took a bit of a risk to be honest, I was suprised the Bowderstone was wet though....

I reckon that sequence is fine, I suppose you could start with your right hand on the starting hold but it wouldn't make any difference...........

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#1119 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 25, 2010, 02:39:17 pm
here is a crappy little montage of Leroy Desroy
 

SA Chris

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#1120 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 25, 2010, 02:47:35 pm
Willackers, how big are your feet? they look like canoeshoes!

philo

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#1121 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 25, 2010, 04:03:54 pm
who would want to make a montage of liam "trains in his sleep" desroy!  :thumbsup:

nice little vid

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#1122 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 25, 2010, 10:41:05 pm
http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/one-hueco-0

I can't even tell if it's ironic or terrible

rjtrials

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#1123 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 25, 2010, 10:58:02 pm
http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/one-hueco-0

I can't even tell if it's ironic or terrible
That dude stayed at my house for a couple weeks last winter, I'm sure he thought the vid was 'totally sick and rad.'

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#1124 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2010, 07:42:21 pm
Willackers, how big are your feet? they look like canoeshoes!
:lol:

Massive!, I had to send the measurements of my feet off to 5.10 to get some white lace ups specially made  :P

 

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