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Cheedale Cornice Conditions (Read 126324 times)

Jaspersharpe

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#50 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 05, 2008, 10:48:13 am
I read on an old thread about the possibility of some decent bouldering at the left hand end of the cornice (if it was ever cleaned up etc). Has anyone done anything about this or has it not been dry since (can't remember when the thread was from)?

etjoset

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#51 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 05, 2008, 12:13:11 pm
Someone had a go at cleaning a small part of this wall up a few summers back (2004 or 2005). Although the wall has potential, it is incredibly dirty being covered in a thick layer of Cornice-cake. It stays wet until well into the summer and in bad years probably doesn't dry out properly at all. Even if/when the holds are clean you still get covered in cake simply by brushing against the rest of the rock, which means it's probably a venue strictly for the limestone enthusiast. However, it does benefit from being a cool venue in the hottest of weather.

Jaspersharpe

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#52 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 05, 2008, 12:57:51 pm
I get ya. So it would take an exceptionally dry summer and a lot of hard work to get anywhere with it.

Bonjoy

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#53 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 05, 2008, 01:02:20 pm
A good place to go in combo with Dog's Dinner. The two best looking lines are on relatively clean dry areas, on impeccable (if a little dirty) rock

mickb

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#54 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 13, 2008, 06:45:26 pm
Anyone been down  in the last few days?
Thinking of taking a look this weekend. Cheers, Mick.

Paul B

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#55 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 13, 2008, 06:56:02 pm
I haven't been since last friday, when I was there it was in a bad state, wet and dirty.

north_country_boy

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#56 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 13, 2008, 07:08:58 pm
i was down there last sunday, everthing right of unleashing.... was dry enough to climb. Everything left of Powerplant was sopping and very very dirty....

In between, powerplant to Unleashing..., stuff was workable and nearly redpointable i imagine but all need a good cleaning to stuff any moisture being retained in the dirt......take a stiff broom or brush and get the drying process accelerated, thats what i intend to do next week anyway...

Ru

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#57 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 14, 2008, 09:03:56 am
I cleaned up Masculine power trip about 2-3 years ago. This is not the dirtiest bit of the left hand end, but it took two days with wire brushes and getting covered in crap. Not much fun.

Paul B

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#58 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 14, 2008, 01:40:25 pm
Did you also clean nemesis around about then ru? While I was there I had a look for it took me far too long to realise I was stood underneath it. It was covered in some kind of sludge cake and you could only tell it had been climbed on by the sica showing through and the odd biner left on bolts, I could see it taking a hell of a lot of effort to clean off.

Bonjoy

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#59 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 17, 2008, 09:12:27 am
The Cornice always looks as bad as this before stuff gets climbed. It takes a lot of effort to clean routes and it's a process that needs repeating every year on some routes. Some routes are worth the effort, some probably aren't. I think there's a good chance the Cornice might dry out properly this year (touch wood), if the dry weather lasts a bit longer and isn't followed by monsoons. The earlier things get cleaned, the sooner they dry.

pete D

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#60 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 25, 2008, 11:12:15 am
I was there on monday and was suprised to find how much it has dried out in the last few weeks despite the rain we've had.  Even the steep left hand end was mostly dry.  It is very dirty though, so needs keen folk to get down with their brushes to get things into nick.  From what I could see, Clarion Call, Armistice Day and Powerplant were clean and chalked...

Bonjoy

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#61 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 25, 2008, 11:43:48 am
According to buxtonweather.co.uk the area has only had 54mm of rain in May and 40mm in June, both well below average rainfall for these months. If things don't crap out it should be a good Cornice year.

Sam

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#62 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
July 07, 2008, 10:36:12 am
as of 6/7/08:

Monumental looks damp in the lower section and vegetated but top dry.
Jug Jockey > Roof Warrior look dry
Cry of Despair > This is the Sea - dry but really dirty (the overlap at the 2nd bolt on CoD is damp but climbable)
Martial Music and all routes right to Third Order all bone dry.

Bonjoy

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#63 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
August 11, 2008, 11:28:01 am
War Memorial, Martial Music and Clarion Call, all dry but could dowith traffic to clean. Armictice Day and Whose Line looked just about dry enough to do. Bored of the Lies, Ouiji Board, Four Door, Powerplant, all dry. Everything right of RnP totally dry. Unleashing cleaned and chalked, but not yet re-bolted (will maybe get sorted next week).

Turboman

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#64 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
August 11, 2008, 11:59:38 am
Everything right of RnP totally dry.

Does that include RnP? How did it look?
Cheers

dpb

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#65 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
August 11, 2008, 06:11:42 pm
Unleashing cleaned and chalked, but not yet re-bolted (will maybe get sorted next week).

Did you try the top section again?  Any new beta/feel any easier?

Bonjoy

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#66 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
August 12, 2008, 10:08:02 am
RnP looked probably dry enough to do, with maybe a wet hold or two near the start. That said, it might be worse after last night.

Yeah I was back on Unleashing and have sorted out ok beta for the top. The very last move is a barn doory slap with RH on a small layaway and RF on a big smear. Not as hard as I'd first thought but still very fluffable! Might be there later if the weather clears and I can find my wellies.

Bonjoy

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#67 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
August 13, 2008, 10:12:31 am
dbp - Was back there yesterday and did Unleashing. The top was wet due to overnight rain so I had to work a new non dynamic sequence (rag/chalk dried the holds well enough to use static but still too soapy to catch as a slap). My new better sequence for the top is: From matched on undercut > LF yellowy small but positive hold > RF Smear > LH sharpish flaky pinch > RF goodish foothold just under right side of undercut > RH tiny two finger fin/pinch > stand up onto RF and kick LF out onto whatever > RH flat undercut horizontal pinch > LF ok foothold with crack along the back > RF broken/chipped looking toe dish > cross LF to big brushed smear > RF way out right to tiny spike > LH static to big flatty with thumb catch left of belay > RH big jug > Clip belay > Go for curry and beer.


 The rest of the crag is looking better. Additional to the dry routes mentioned earlier Roof Warrior, Cry Of Despair, RnP, Bored Of The Lies, Big Zipper, War Memorial all looked doable. Other stuff that looked close That Was The River, Masculine Power Trip, This Is The Sea, Jug jockey. Bring a selection of brushes, a rag or two and wellies for the walk in.

Bonjoy

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#68 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
August 13, 2008, 03:45:25 pm
Dbp – Oh yeah, I forgot to put your bail biner back on Unleashing, sorry. But I did leave it high up on Bored Of The Lies after having a play on Ouijaboard.

dpb

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#69 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
August 13, 2008, 10:18:43 pm
Nice one!  Im looking forward to getting back on it some time soon.  Bail biner?!  Sure its mine?  You cleaned the route that day from the lower off, didnt think anything was left behind.  No probs anyway.

Bonjoy

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#70 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
August 14, 2008, 08:45:38 am
Oh right, someone else must have been on it in the meantime. I just assumed it was you as it was on the last bolt and you asked about beta for last moves. Good to see it getting some attention. Must get round to replacing those shoddy top bolts!

north_country_boy

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#71 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
August 14, 2008, 06:41:40 pm
Think that bail biner is Mr Napier's as he went there monday, without a clipstick and said the bit to the belay was wet.... so didn't do it...

Peanuts

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#72 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
August 15, 2008, 11:58:44 am
Dbp – Oh yeah, I forgot to put your bail biner back on Unleashing, sorry. But I did leave it high up on Bored Of The Lies after having a play on Ouijaboard.

Just curious to know how you got on with Ouijaboard ?  I found it utter nails and significantly harder than Unleashing, 7c+ .... my arse :-\

Bonjoy

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#73 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
August 15, 2008, 12:45:49 pm
I had heard people say it was really hard, so was expecting solid 8a. Thought it was tricky, but still significantly easier than Unleashing, maybe low/mid 8a. I could imagine the move to the edges below the overlap being a lot harder if you can't reach off the good foothold. Will know better when I have a redpoint. Which bit where you finding hard?

Bonjoy

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#74 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
August 17, 2008, 10:41:26 pm
A lot worse today than it has been. Previously dry routes which are now wet include Clarion Call, Martial Music, Bored of the Lies, Ouijiboard. Basically it's wet apart from Four Door, Power Plant and the RH side.

 

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