[AndiT]

Sorry if this is already somewhere else. Does anyone know if the Cornice is ready yet, or is it still dribbling?

Cheers.

[slim]

was pretty dry last weekend,
get yer sen doon thar

[AndiT]

Well I took the risk and walked down and it's perfectly dry . Perhaps the driest I've seen it. Bit loathe to tell really because it was also quiet, but share the wealth and all that. A touch damp/mucky around roof warrior still.

Enjoy.

[Falling Down]

Yep - It's dry.... I was super close to onsighting Martial Music (only 7a for you uberwads... but still a tricky onsight by my standards) last Saturday and fell off moving off the crucial crimp post-crux grrr....

The oldies were worried about the bolts on Armistice Day - so be careful.

[Bonjoy]

 Did AD yesterday. The bolts looked fine, except for the nuts being loose and needing a spanner on them. All stainless and quite new.
 Also did Who's Line, the bolts on which are well overdue for replacement. Non stainless wedge anchors with stainless hangers. The bolt heads are very rusty. That Was The River was to dangerous to climb last year and I suspect still in need of re-equiping.
 I have a drill now, but I don't have the time to do these (am busy revamping another neglected peak sport crag) and the price of stainless bolts has gone up loads since last year. There is urgent need of a peak bolt fund and people with time on their hands.

[Paul B]

ive got the time to bolt up a few worthy causes although not enough cash to do more than a couple, fancy showing me how its done jon?

[Bonjoy]

 Aye, I can impart the sacred knowledge. I'll let you know when i'm next bolting.

[Falling Down]

....am busy revamping another neglected peak sport crag)...

Care to elaborate or would that give away the umpteen projects you have there??

PS _ being cash rich and time poor (relatively speaking of course) I'd happily cough up for a bolt fund.

[Bonjoy]

 I'm sure no one will dash over there and nab my project, but i'll tell you by PM just to be on the safe side.

[Bonjoy]

There's some good info on bolting safe here http://tinyurl.com/g6rae and some good pics of bad bolts

[Paul B]

Read in summit I think that the BMC had set up a bolting research group and were looking to release a best practice kind of manual for re-bolting etc. Ive always thought that if you could have a bolt with some kind of sacrificial anode you would only have to replace this and not the whole thing each time but im a little unsure if it would work properly...

[Bonjoy]

 Have wondered the same, but never seen anything of the kind.
 Am also interested in trying out self tapping bolts. There is a 10mm stainless one on the market for industrial use, which is apparently stronger in pulltests that equivalent resin or expansion bolts. The main advantage is that you can screw the bolt out when it's past it and either screw in another or use the hole to place a resin bolt.

[Paul B]

Sounds good, with regards to the sacrificial anode i was wondering if two holes,one with the bolt and one with the anode joined somehow would remove the risk of having big unsightly blocs of corroded metal at every bolt...? Theres really only one way to find out if it'll work.

[dave]

The oldies were worried about the bolts on Armistice Day - so be careful.

we did this route last summer and I don't remember having any concern about the bolts, and I'm pretty gay about that type of thing.

[Percy B]

Got myself psyched to rebolt a load of stuff at the end of last season, and collected together the necessary to re-bolt Powerplant and Monumental just as the Cornice got wet again. Typical!
My own fault for being a late starter. However, this year I'm a bit better prepared and I do now have some bits and bobs 're-appropriated'  from various indoor establishments which I now have earmarked for various bits of limestone around the Peak. These include stainless belays and hangers. If anybody wants to lend me a drill next time I'm down the dale I'll rebolt a few things. Its worth noting that if we don't keep on top of things, somebody is going to come a right cropper before too long - Gaz and I snapped a bolt whilst trying to tighten the nut on its stud on Caviar at Rubicon last summer, which really frightened me cos it looked pretty good compared to some of the other shit people lob on to.
The bolts in Powerplant - one of the Peaks most popular 8a's - are absolutely shagged compared to the one we snapped on Caviar, and yet nobody has thought about replacing them. Being an absolute pansy when it comes to falling off, I prefer to know that the bolts I will be sitting on will stay in, so will rebolt this route next time I'm down the dale.

[Paul B]

i was reminded not to have blind faith in bolts on wednesday when the person i was climbing with reached up and just pulled a bolt out, it looked rusty but ive definately clipped worse and sauntered happily by, a lot of routes are in a state of disrepair, is there a formal bolt fund for the peak or not?

[Bonjoy]

Percy, PM me if and when you need to borrow drill. I have only just got drill second hand off ebay, so not sure yet how good/knackered the battery is. Mighty be testing it this weekend so will have a better idea soon.

[alex]

does any one know is armstice day, clarion call, martial music, whos line is it anyway and the big zipper- are any of these in condition? was on my way down the other day and was informed they were piss wet.
cheers al

[r-man]

Asking for a friend - is Cheedale likely to be dry at the weekend - specifically Sturgeon in the Cupboard, on the Embankment?

[AndiT]

Cheedale is even more dry now. Long wall is dry too if a little dusty, could do with some traffic get things clean, although I took the liberty to climb there last night and clean a few in the process. Enjoy.

[andy_e]

Excellent! Is the embankment dry too?

[north_country_boy]

Embankment - Bone dry has been for weeks!

[andy_e]

As I suspected. Yay.

[Jerry Morefat]

are the rumours true? Has the cornice started to dry out? If so have the routes seen much traffic or are they still pretty dusty?

[Bonjoy]

All but the wettest routes looked dry last Thurs. Virtually nothing was clean or chalked.