[turnipturned]

Not but definitely going to sort this out soon, Moose could you also send me your topo, just so I can use it as a reference.

Thanks

[moose]

Okay, PM me your email address and I'll email it to you.

[Duncan campbell]

Any news on connies?

[ali k]

Seems to have been plenty of action here recently. Is it totally dry or are certain routes/sections out? Was thinking specifically Urgent Action and Jellybeans for the weekend...

[Paul B]

People were on the Bulge on Wed and The Thumb so I think it's holding out fairly well. Ted mentioned that the start niche of Full Tilt was starting to show signs of seepage after the deluge last week.

[bendavison]

Urgent was bone dry on Tuesday.

[ali k]

Excellent thanks. Worth the trip then.

[Steve Crowe]

Some seepage on Kilnsey today but not enough to stop Alex climbing Freakshow with the aid of a wet rag.

[Adam Lincoln]

Some seepage on Kilnsey today but not enough to stop Alex climbing Freakshow with the aid of a wet rag.

And the big hold that came off yesterday...

[abarro81]

And the big hold that came off yesterday...

Doesn't change anything, there's still a jug there

[andy_e]

Even I climbed up a route there. so it can't have been too bad.

[andy_e]

Fucked? It's been a very water-table-raising week.

[turnipturned]

North buttress was looking pretty grim when i drove past today..... sure the hard moves at the crag will be fine though!!!!

[Paul B]

Sorry to resurrect an oldie. I've posted this in the FB group (which seems to be the favoured source of Kilnsey info these days):

Parking at Kilnsey is under a lot of pressure this year (with other areas being wet). It's worth remembering that there's more parking towards Kettlewell so there's no need to squeeze onto the end of small bays or park on the double yellows.

[Will Hunt]

Meanwhile, down the road, Blu Ska is effectively banned due to parking issues. Park considerately you spoons 

[Duncan campbell]

Meanwhile, down the road, Blu Ska is effectively banned due to parking issues. Park considerately you spoons 

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!! Really!?!

[Will Hunt]

Can't tell if you're being sarcastic or not there Duncan. Use a smiley next time   

[Duncan campbell]

I'm serious. Is it really banned? Was hoping to get there to do Central Wall this year... 

[turnipturned]

Blue Scar itself isn't exactly banned as it on open access land, but the usual walk in is banned as on private land, because the landowner was pissed off with people parking in front of his gates, so his tenant farmer couldn't use his farm buildings. (The tenant farmer is actually very supportive of climbers).

You can walk in over the tops, buts its a long walk in. You might want to check bird bans as well, people don't really climb there anymore, so I wouldn't  be surprised if peregrine are nesting there again.

[Will Hunt]

Wot Dan said. Access is not banned per se, but access by the usual approach requires a number of hoops to be jumped through which makes it harder to climb there. There's an email address that you have to write to to get an application form. You then need to agree to the terms on there, most of which are quite reasonable, but two of these  have the effect of a) banning the sport routes, and b) you must send a copy of your BMC membership card showing that you will be a member of the BMC for the duration of the climbing season.

I sent off for an application form and it took a little under 2 months to receive it by email. I've now dug out my BMC card to find that it's expired so I have to get that sorted and receive the new card before I complete the form. All of this has the effect of making it just difficult enough to climb at the place so as to make it prohibitive to most without actually imposing an out and out ban. This is exactly what the landowner wants since his main concern is parking and the problems kicked off after a load of easy sport was developed at the crag.

I think Dan is right when he says that you could approach over the CRoW land and climb at the crag without having to sign any agreement. The crag itself isn't owned by the person imposing the restriction, just the normal access route. However, if this becomes a norm (unlikely, the situation at Kilnsey is evidence that climber's will do anything to avoid even a 5 minute walk) then it may encourage the access landowner to speak to the crag owners to impose an all out ban. I think the boundary of the CRoW land is the cliff itself, making access to the base potentially tricky. This is the same situation as Guisecliff and there have been reports of climbers being confronted there in recent years. Didn't the farmer there pop his head over the top and start remonstrating with Sutty when he was doing the FA of some new E8?!

[Paul B]

Calm down Will!

All Kilnsey needs is for people visiting the crag to park respectfully and for people to politely challenge anyone that fails do so; pro-activity will hopefully make a busy season a non-issue (plus it's raining loads anyway and the midge have been hell).

Admittedly Blue Scar is now a ball ache.

[Will Hunt]

Calm down Will!

It's this referendum done got me riled up 

[tomtom]

Calm down Will!

It's this referendum done got me riled up 

What's all this about a referendum!!! First I've heard of it. Livid!

[highrepute]

To be fair the lay-by down the road towards Kettlewell often fills up on a busy weekend day. Are many people aware of the farmer who allows parking in his field (signed and pay about £1) about 6 mins walk further on past the large lay-by.

Assuming he still allows parking?