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Kilnsey conditions (Read 216092 times)

Teaboy

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#575 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 17, 2012, 07:58:02 pm
All stuff under the Directissima roof dry, mixed elswhere, north buttress soaked, stuff further right dry I think.

Very midgey and busy.

Unfortunately I left two clips high on the Ashes, if you are on the route this week please can you either leve them there (preferable) or at the bottom of the route, I didn't leave them through lazyness but stupidity!

Three Nine

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#576 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 17, 2012, 09:35:19 pm
Directissima itself wet tho! Pretty minging all round, lots of wetness, lots of midges, too many people...

tim palmer

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#577 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 18, 2012, 10:01:19 am
north buttress soaked, stuff further right dry I think.

Very midgey and busy.

Some stuff to the right was dry, subculture, myra hindley and grooved arete were dry, everything else was wet.

TobyD

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#578 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 18, 2012, 02:10:47 pm
All stuff under the Directissima roof dry, mixed elswhere, north buttress soaked, stuff further right dry I think.
Very midgey and busy.

indian summer, deja vu, dreamtime  and the directissima were all wet!

North Butt dried a fair bit in the day in fact, (from serious waterfall, to mild waterfall - still nowhere near climbable)

the bulge was wet.

most other stuff dry or mostly dry. a lot of the wetness was possibly run off and would have thought thing would be better unless there are any more mega rainstorms like saturday this week.

flyguy

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#579 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 18, 2012, 05:07:45 pm
much better today directissima and all surrounding areas dry, surprised after how wet it was yesterday. some seepage on the bulge but receding. north buttress drying back with wet pockets in all the usual places, wsywig seeping from pocket but otherwise dry and routes to the right of this appeared dry. the beck is now just crossable without getting wet feet. result

The Sausage

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#580 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 18, 2012, 08:38:42 pm
Directissima itself wet tho! Pretty minging all round, lots of wetness, lots of midges, too many people...

...if you're not part of the solution...

Three Nine

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#581 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 19, 2012, 10:25:32 pm
Kilnsey today had rather more seepage but rather less run-off. Midges horrendous. Monsoon forecast :(

Ally Smith

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#582 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 21, 2012, 01:37:50 pm
Much better nick yesterday evening; beck back down to normal levels and potential apocalypse avoided?

Majority of lefthand side under the Mandela roof dry.

Ashes - all dry (& ticked ;D)
JM - Minor seepage on Indian Summer.
Comedy - all dry
Matt - one wet hold on Bulge by first roof. Dryable and top bulge fine.

Didn't venture down to North Buttress, but sounded as if there was sufficient seepage to keep would be True North aspirants at bay.

As an aside - does anyone know who bolted the blank(ish) blunt arete left of Sticky Wicket/Indian Summer? Looks desperate.


TobyD

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#584 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 22, 2012, 07:08:24 am
Any update from today or thursday would be much appreciated, specifically WSIWG / the LH end of the Directissima area

Tar. T

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#585 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 22, 2012, 07:34:17 pm
Just back from the special K..... wet.

Everything dry to start with but it worsened considerably through the day.  Folk on The Ashes, Hardy Annual etc had no complaints but I was on Metal Guru at around 5pm and the upper parts were gopping (made the slightly chossy finish... memorable).  The routes immediately right (Man With a Gun, Cold Steal etc) seemed to be holding out though.  Didn't visit North Buttress.

Even if your chosen route stays dry, getting to it might be a problem tomorrow.  When I arrived the stream was at its normal level, when I left it was spilling onto the road.  It came over the top of my wellies (and I had felt so smug remembering them!) and the force of it made the crossing a bit nervous (thank God for that tree).  If it continues in that vein overnight, belayers will need a canoe... and the rain was showing no sign of stopping.  The roads there were also starting to flood too.  One of those sessions where I was doubting my sanity in staying out ("what normal man in his thirties....").

Three Nine

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#586 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 23, 2012, 05:00:33 pm
Just had a text  saying not a single route dry today.

Three Nine

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#587 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 25, 2012, 10:22:56 am
If anyone has a look today i'd be grateful for any info

TobyD

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#588 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 25, 2012, 11:18:33 pm
If anyone has a look today i'd be grateful for any info

I am generally quite optimistic, especially where climbing condtions are concerned.

Kilnsey is bad, really, really bad. Even the things that look dry have wet holds (sticky wicket, comedy, directissima) things that you'd think would be dry are pretty wet (50 for 5, tragedy, everything over on the right including subculture) and everything else is a river. Face Value didn't have any wet holds, but you have to climb a pretty soggy directissima to do it unless you fancy the lead.
And on top of all that, it seeped considerably more today, not less.

Three Nine

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#589 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 26, 2012, 07:55:52 am
 :(

thanks toby. the Lord smites us again.

TobyD

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#590 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 26, 2012, 08:35:30 am
O yes, I forgot to mention, it was pretty midgey too.

Moving to Sheff on Friday - will be keen for trips up t'dales as soon as anything is in reasonable condition. Otherwise see you at the Tor / Foundry....

griffer

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#591 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 27, 2012, 10:05:52 pm
routes you can climb (but not actually dry)

face value
sticky wicket
truth drug
witches drew

routes you can climb (and are dry)

central wall

torrential rain today in settle and a big thunderstorm at the crag.

Is the depot still dry?

TobyD

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#592 Re: Kilnsey conditions
June 28, 2012, 12:16:54 pm
Is the depot still dry?
;D

the 45 at awesome walls was well greasy yesterday.

Steve Crowe

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#593 Re: Kilnsey conditions
July 01, 2012, 08:31:28 am
Good riddance to the wettest June ever, hello July!

TobyD

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#594 Re: Kilnsey conditions
July 01, 2012, 10:11:58 am
Good riddance to the wettest June ever, hello July!
indeed, although July is looking very much the same as June from where I'm sitting...

If anyone is foolish err i mean brave enough to go to Kilnsey today, could you post up if cold steal / stolen is dry please? Thanks.

griffer

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#595 Re: Kilnsey conditions
July 01, 2012, 04:48:35 pm
The crag is drying routes now dry are
Comedy
Pantomine
Truth drug
Sticky wicket
Frankie
witches brew

However the 100% humidity fine Drissle made my hangover worthwhile,

Kilnsey is full  cked

moose

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#596 Re: Kilnsey conditions
July 01, 2012, 08:20:13 pm
Christ, it says something about this summer when around 3% of the routes being dry feels like progress.  Similarly, I was at Malham today and ended up on Bongo Fury... a route I swore never to try again... desperate times!

By way of commemoration of the recent, record breaking rainfall, a neologism:

seepshagged - adj. descriptive of an entire crag rendered unclimbable by seeping moisture;
                                  usage: "I drove by Kilnsey today, didn't stop, it was proper seepshagged

griffer

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#597 Re: Kilnsey conditions
July 03, 2012, 09:23:16 pm
pointless
you will find me thursday night at the depot
same routes look dry, however all pockets are wet/damp on them.
I cannot believe this summe :chair:

Stabbsy

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#598 Re: Kilnsey conditions
July 08, 2012, 07:42:58 am
Was in the area so drove past last night. Not as bad as I'd expected, but still wet patches on just about everything. Truth Drug, Sideshow/kick and maybe Metal Guru looked driest, but difficult to see what state pockets were in. Maybe a couple of other things climbable, Comedy, Sticky Wicket, Face Value. Just as I left it started to tip down again, so not getting any better.

Andy F

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#599 Re: Kilnsey conditions
July 14, 2012, 06:35:02 pm
This was just posted on faceache "Kilnsey is mostly bone dry and in fairly good nick.. some wet patches on the north buttress around full tilt and urgent action but the rest of the crag dry". Not sure if the person who wrote it is on acid, or entirely trustworthy, or both  :-\  :blink:

 

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